Bonelli being the one person who accomplishes most, by climbing the Parete del Disertore and the Grande Ala. Following the pioneering events of the previous years, there seems to be a lack in continuation, although there are clear signs of wanting to carry on what was interrupted due to Galante’s accidental death in the mountains. 1977: one more year of stagnation. The new key figure among the upcoming new routers is doubtlessly that of Isidoro Meneghin, who stands out way from the beginning for having put up a couple of new lines on the Parete dei Falchi and on Sergent (Nicchia delle Torture). Note that Isidoro’s style is nearer to that of alpinism, far from the free climbing style inspired by Motti’s group, as it accepts massive recourse to artificial means. At the same time, several minor rock faces are explored for the very first time by Meneghin.
young climber named Marco Bernardi appears on. On the other hand the mountain as a whole, where Manera and Meneghin continue the exploration of the entire mountain group, trying to transfer the enthusiasm born in the days of Caporal and Sergent to high-altitude climbing. They will soon be joined by Grassi, giving way to a new period of exploration. Bernardi free-climbs the Diedro Nanchez on Caporal, one more grade VII, then the Camino Bernardi on Sergent, graded VII in absence of protections. Together with Grassi, Bernardi manages to touch the same grade in high altitude, on Monte Nero, proving to be a complete climber. Meanwhile, Beuchod and Bonelli don’t just stare into space but set out with Gogna to discover first the Parete dei Cavalieri Perdenti and then the Parete delle Ombre, thus initiating a series of high-class new lines, though scarcely resonant.
1979: grade VII is at last reached on Caporal’s rock, by an the emerging young climber Gabriele Beuchod who boldly accomplishes a free ascent of the Orecchio del Pachiderma, an enterprise that outdoes the ascents of Kosterlitz and Galante. Bonelli and Beuchod gather up into a small group of climbers who secretly continue to explore the valley according to the philosophy of the Nuovo Mattino, even though they do not seek difficulty as an end in itself.
1981: the key attention is shifted to the unexplored and barely discovered rock faces of Noaschetta. Meneghin and Manera climb the large rock face of Ancesieu, and the south arête of the Torre del Blanc Giuir. Manera joins up with Sant’Unione to tackle the untouched south face of Monte Castello while Grassi sets out on a thorough exploration of the Cresta dei Prosces, in the area of Noaschetta. In the lower valley Bernardi touches grade VIII (7a) by climbing Incastro Amaro on Sergent, whereas Mario Ogliengo places the very first bolt on the Placca del Cacao. Gabriele Beuchod proves more discretion as he puts up his masterpieces dubbed respectively “Nocciolina prigioniera” , on the Parete delle Ombre, and “il Principe” on the Serpente di Legno.
1980: the scenery splits up. On one hand the scene of the lower valley’s rock walls, which a talented
1982: Bernardi’s young emulators open Rattle Snake on Caporal, while Manolo and Bassi free Via Cochise
1978: after 8 years of attempts, Roberto Bonelli succeeds in repeating the Fessura Kosterlitz. As for Bonelli, he enjoys the opening of a new route on the Parete del Disertore.
Gianpiero Motti
Enrico Camanni
Ugo Manera
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