English Text
endless: just a boom See Page 52 Such a brand as Endless must certainly be endowed with that something able to make the difference as, in less than two years, managed to pass from zero to more than 3500 stores all over the world despite a period that the jewellery sector defined as "critical". This is not certainly due only to its outstanding ambassador, Jennifer Lopez, although she represents a success factor thanks to the advertising campaign and the line the actress designs and renews for the brand every year. The Endless project developed from an idea by Jesper Nielsen and, since its debut, mainly stood out for its dynamic, fast and flexible approach, responsive to the evolution of the tastes and needs of its public. The indefatigable Nielsen and his team of managers, recently complemented by Paul Moonga as Ceo and Mikkel Berg as Cmo (Chief Marketing Officer), focused their interest on the product and on the relationship with dealers and retailers. The Endless Jewelry Collection is set out in a wide variety of items, from colourful bracelets to charms that can be combined according to one’s mood and style to create a jewel that becomes different every day. The new collection evidences as main protagonists leather necklaces, the 3-string bracelet in autumn colours, new charms and the elegant Silver Bracelet, designed by Jennifer Lopez. This extreme flexibility offered to the consumer at very affordable prices is complemented by a great support by the company towards the store through display, advertising and marketing materials, beside the organization of VIP events and training courses for associated members including a number of webinars. For example, the party organised during the latest edition of JCK in Las Vegas was attended by over 600 people including wholesalers, agents, journalists and other guests, while the opening of the first Endless Jewelry mono-brand in Asia, in Taipei, was celebrated by over three hundred people with a fashion show and a concert. «All this is based on imagination
– says Jennifer Lopez – expressed through the invention of a different bracelet every day». In fact, Jesper Nielsen’s aim is that of offering lightness and imagination and despite being business oriented like all managers, he keeps a strong ethical consciousness both in his search for the product quality and in the attention paid to the sustainability of processes. In fact, he decided to entrust the production of his collection to Manish Kumara from New Delhi that can ensure excellent working conditions and environment protection.
a great master of shape See Page 60 He defined his activity as «similar to the trunk of a comedian, able to contain what is needed to the role of the person that will be wearing it». Giancarlo Montebello, known designer of “body ornaments” (rather than mere jewels), after working as a successful editor of artist goldsmith creations, has been following his own independent concept path for years. Through this interview we tried to rummage a bit in his “trunk”, even to learn more about the present and future designer. We are intrigued and eager to understand why you claimed that your work consists in the search for the geography of the body. What does this mean, exactly? «The expression “geography of the body” is one of my life and designer licence; otherwise I should say “anatomy”, but I think this term is too medical. I study and live with great attention the destination of use of my various jewels, so that they are at their best for the decoration role they must play». Form and substance are at the core of every designer’s activity. How do you live this relationship? «I live it well after many years of practice; the relationship of the designer must be characterised by a mutuality between ideas, matters and the involved techniques to merge them into a whole and fully achieve what viewed before». Your jewels, more than a status symbol, l'Orafo 2015
106
ottobre/novembre
aim at representing the person wearing them. Does a common element exist in your creative work? Which shapes are the most recurring? «The ellipse, which is my favourite geometrical sign, and golden gems cut by the lapidarist». Sometimes your ornaments give the impression of being “works in progress”. Where does this passion for the apparently “unfinished” come from? «For me everything finished loses dynamics, a work that is not finished has a becoming». It seems as you particularly like “playing” and continuously experimenting with matter. «Yes, manual working is important, even though it depends on models: it can prevail for some items and have a lesser importance for others as it requires a mechanical working. In any case, behind both hands and a machine tool, there must always be a reasoning human mind possibly with a vocation, and then materials with their stimuli». What role does culture play in your job? To be precise, to which aesthetic principles do you feel more akin? I add: Giancarlo Montebello has had the honour to collaborate with such artists as Man Ray, Lucio Fontana, Piero Dorazio, Sonia Delaunay and many others. What did the great masters teach you? Today do you consider yourself a master? «Culture helps building a person. The drive to form a culture over time is linked to the longing for the curiosity of knowing, understanding and being able to give yourself answers; this is the life project par excellence, “a work in progress” because it can “progress” and can be reworked for the rest of a life. All this will be invaluable if introduced in one’s own work since the beginning. This is what I learned from the great masters listening to them and watching them, reading and studying hard, visiting exhibitions and museums from 18 to 50 years of age. I am not a master because I still have a lot to learn». Can you explain the meaning of the ornaments that are dearest to you. «Bradamante Ornaments»: «Strength Courage Gentleness». «They are fragments of a stainless steel chain of an imaginary dress, to feel that I am simultaneously ancient, contemporary