Issuu on Google+

Passion for Wine and Life

2013

2013 apr

HK$38

apr _cru028_cover V2.indd 1

Cover Story

Carl Ng the Restless Child 吳嘉龍 原來是個大孩子

panel Tasting Sake 清酒

28/3/13 6:41 PM


Qatar Airways Business Class.

Onboard our award-winning Business Class, your business trip becomes a one of the most comfortable seats in the sky. It is business as usual with an in-seat laptop power port and a personal reading lamp transforming your seat into a virtual office. Welcome onboard Qatar Airways Business Class for a truly rewarding experience from departure to arrival.

For more information please visit qatarairways.com /hk

_IFCQatar Airway.indd 1 210X297 BC(E)040213.indd 1

28/3/13 2/10/13 5:41 1:04 AM PM


TasTe Culture

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

001_AWMB.indd 1 CRU Magazin Kellergasse 1

28/3/13 AM 08.02.135:32 11:52


TABLE OF CONTENTS #028  April 2013

Wine

Life

Cru Speech 012 MERLOT (PART 2) 014 Acidity and Wine Part 1: the chemistry and microbiology 酸度與葡萄酒 第一部份:化 學與微生物學 016 Cru Corner

生活

Cru World of Wines

Dining Life

063 066

089 The Unlimited Potential of Rice 米的無限潛力

A Love Affair With (White and Red) Grenache 愛上 Grenache紅與白 The Pursuit of Terroir in the Cotes 對Terroir的完美追求 070 I Cjamps

Watch Life 092 Pursuit of Execellence 出類拔萃

Cru Voyage 072

Cru Special 024 028

The Patron of Burgundy-Saint Vincent Tournante 2013  葡萄酒的守護神—勃艮第傳 統聖文森節 

032

Bordeaux 2010 Vintages Released! 波爾多2010正式出爐! Riesling Weeks Riesling之週

Car Life

Cru Story 032 Carl Ng the Restless Child 吳嘉龍 原來是個大孩子

Cru Tasting 037 Sake 清酒

037 TOC_028.indd 1

Cru Spirit

072

092

094 Pure Blood 純種

Hotel Life 098 The Peninsula 半島酒店

080 Box of a Lifetime 盒子裡的光影歲月

Art Life

Cru Review

100 Art and Culture at HAJI 文化與藝術在HAJI

084 085 086 087

 he Doctor of Burgundy T 勃艮第的守護者 Looking Beyond Sweet Tokaj 匈牙利美酒 A Family of One 隆河谷大家庭 Forrest Estate Winery Partners with Kerry Wines Limited

094 28/3/13 5:58 PM


003_Hofex.indd 1

28/3/13 5:39 AM


Letters from the Editor Fair and Objective 公平與客觀 Last year one of the most astonishing announcements in the wine world was the sale of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. How about the commitment to his fellow readers? Would it stay as fair and as objective as before? Will the ratings be affected by commercial sponsors or advertisements? I believe that with the right direction and target, it would not be a problem. The fact is that bias can be revealed from ratings. We have to agree that taste is somehow very subjective and not everyone will agree on the same rating. The readers can tell after all when they drink that wine. The wine will tell. Our blind Panel Tasting is the same. We post all our details and schemes for rating every issue, so new readers will know what we are doing. Details like decanting time will be mentioned too. So reader could understand more how we rate the wines. I participate in every tasting of every wine and you will notice in the last few issues, our editors including me will reveal some of our favourites as our own subjective rating. We always need support from advertisers, but it is even more important for our readers to have fair subjective ratings from us for the wine. I believe our readers will understand what we do and our passion about wine. Next issue is going to be exciting as we will have a first hand Bordeaux En Primeur report, as well as a special editorial about Burgundy that we are doing for the Le French May. 去年最驚動酒界的一定是Robert Parker把一手創立的Wine Advocate賣掉,有人會問,RP一向重視讀者,不偏不倚的心會如何呢?以後的酒評會否一如以往, 一樣中肯呢?是否會受商業廣告或贊助的影響呢?我想只要有正確的方向、標準去評論某瓶葡萄酒,結果如何,便可從所獲的評分反映,但有一樣重要的是,品 味是十分個人的,我絕對相信不會所有人都同意一個評分。那怎樣?讀者在喝過那瓶酒之後便會心裡有數。公道自在人心。

我們的蒙瓶試酒品評亦一樣,每一次會都將評分的準則,不厭其煩地放在文 中,希望就算是第一次接觸的讀者都能明白,也會提及試酒時的細節,如醒 酒時間。只求讀者知道我們的評分是如何得來。有留意的朋友,我其實每次 試酒也會參與其中,而最近我及其他編輯也會發表我們的喜好,也讓讀者知 道我們個別的主觀評價。我們一向需要廣告商的支持,但更需要廣大讀者的 支持,作出如實客觀的酒評是我們的職責。相信讀者一定能從我們的所作所 為,了解我們對葡萄酒的熱誠。

下期不單有一年一度的波爾多新酒品評,更有我們為法國五月節所製作的勃

Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com

艮第專輯。

Editorial Director : Eddie Chui

Publisher : Cru Media Limited

Features Editor : Joe Lo

Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham

Assistant Editor : Ian Wong

Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Tasting Editor : Francois Luck

Tel : (852) 3568 9100

Creative Director : Jenkin Ma

Fax : (852) 3568 9101

Designer : Louise Pak

E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com

Photographer : Alvin Luk

Website : www.cru-magazine.com

Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong

Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine

Business Director : Nicholas Siu Associate Account Director : Queenie Ho Account Manager : Jon Osborne

Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196

Sales & Marketing Manager : Rachel Tung

Distrbution Service : Blackstone Concepts (852) 3481 0518

Marketing Executive : Eva Tse

All rights reserved 版權所有,翻印必究

Circulation Manager : Simon Ha

ISSN 2221016-4

editorsnote028.indd 1

3/4/13 12:47 PM


Letters from the Editors Ian Wong Assistant Editor ian@cru-magazine.com

Joe Lo Feature Editor joe@cru-magazine.com

Two Face

Sake Fanatic and Sake Beauty

雙面葡萄

清酒狂熱 之 酒粕美容

One of the often-mentioned delights of New World wines is the discovery of new terroir in places where nobody would have ever thought good wines could be made. Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay of New Zealand is exactly one of the areas that was discovered not too long ago, and yet is already producing monumental wines of great structure and longevity. I met with John Forrest this month as he visited Hong Kong, and he told me about how lucky he was when he first bought the land, but also how when he first saw the soil he knew it would be good for Syrah (he was the first settler in the area), due to its similarity to the stony soil of the Northern Rhône.

Every day this month my mind has been on only one thing: sake, sake, sake! Work sake, write sake, rushing from work to dine with friends

Gimblett Gravels Syrah is now known around the world for not only

and drink...sake. Even my events I attended were sake related. The

being able to match the complexity and elegance of French Syrah, but

Sake Fair 2013 at Time Square’s city’super was incredible, and the

also for being unique and delicious, giving New Zealanders something

more sake I tried, the more nuances I appreciated and bottles I loved.

other than their Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs to brag about (while

Before this month, because I was never much of a sake fan, I used

presenting them the chance to casually disparage Australian “jammy”

to get unbearably confused by the names of these rice wines. Often

Shiraz with delight). It’s a good thing that there are two names for this

overly poetic and almost nauseatingly romantic, the names of the sakes

two-faced grape.

I thought of were like “Love X”, “Spring Night XX”, simply ambiguously meaningless names. And I even went so far as to fall in love with a sake

提起新世界葡萄酒,其中一件最為人津津樂道的,絕對是在鮮為人知的

skin care product during a wine meal. I was presented with a gift box

terroir 上釀出驚世好酒的故事,就好像新西蘭 Hawke’s Bay 的 Gimblett

with a facial mask made using sake products, and at a whim tried it that

Gravels便正正是其中一塊剛被發掘不久的優秀土壤之地,釀造出擁有絕

night. It was incredible! But now the time is past, and I have to wait till

佳結構及酒體的酒款。我上月剛剛乘著John Forrest來香港時與他見面,

the city’super Sake Festival next year to taste all these seasonal and

他告訴我如何地幸運地購入這片土地,而且第一眼看到那些土壤的質感與

unpasteurized sakes.

隆河谷北部的甚為相似時,便已經認定這是種植Syrah的絕佳土質! 今個月的每一天,我滿腦子除了清酒,還是清酒!工作要試清酒、寫清 今日的Gimblett Gravels Syrah已經名揚世界,不只有著法國Syrah的複雜

酒、放工約朋友食飯又飲清酒、到銅鑼灣時代廣場等人走到city’super又試

性與優雅感覺,而且口味獨特,讓當地人除了 Sauvignon Blanc和 Pinot

清酒,實在hyper到不能自制!「越飲越好味,越寫越覺有趣」是我今個

Noir外,更多討論的話題(就像他們貶低澳洲Shriaz如何膩口時的喜悅)

月的金句,因為我從來都不是清酒迷,以前總覺得清酒的酒名除了過份渲

。所以葡萄有兩個不同的名字也許是一件好事。

染浪漫和肉麻啜核外完全不知所云,例如:「愛X」、「春宵XX」等,很 救命,很想死。然而今日的我竟然會為清酒而狂,最近更愛上使用酒粕當 護膚品。自從上月來港的獺祭副社長櫻井一宏先生在飯後贈送了一塊酒粕 洗顏肥皂給我後,心血來潮又走到city’super又買了一樽原酒粕,晚上加入 礦泉水稀釋成面膜泥狀,敷上10-15分鐘,真的有種奐然一新的感覺!不 過今年的city’super清酒節已在3月18日完滿結束,想品嘗最新推出的生酒 系列和時令清酒產品便要等到「明年今日」了!

editorsnote028.indd 2

28/3/13 6:06 PM


C O N T R I B U T O R S

Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾.貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景,亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師,更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。

Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇,愛好美酒美食,大 中華酒評人協會會員,英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》,電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。

006_010_Contributors.indd 1

Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡.德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編,並於 1996 年與米歇爾.貝塔納 (Michel Bettane)合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南,內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師, 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地,從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師,都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述,極具天賦能力。

Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 , 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣, Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素,以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。

Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.

Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong.  Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.

劉涵濤在香港出生,於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師,2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起,曾於澳洲的南澳,維多利亞 省,法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作,現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師,亦同時用自然,低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒,「傳」。

Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗,考獲 WSET

Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.

高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師,亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course,亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。

Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生,曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作, 正職市場推廣,副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人,只有懶惰的,所以最愛試不同的美容產 品,讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。

單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名,用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite,企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上,生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食,及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業,可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。

28/3/13 6:01 PM


T a s t i n g

Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s  Singtao  Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師,擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》,並在 多家報章雜誌包括:《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄,亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道-美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。

Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was  awarded  the  Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒,2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格,並成為香港首批 CSW,並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體,並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書(萬里機構 出版)。

006_010_Contributors.indd 2

Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說,每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情,因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程,充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後,現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 , 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。

Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判,並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一,持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格,對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。

Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny  from  Burgundy  and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎,亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣,他先後任職於不 同酒商,包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ,並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教,曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒, 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。

P a n e l

Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師,亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程, 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ,鳳凰衛視,瑪麗嘉 兒,味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一,Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。

Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist  of  Spirits  from  the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會( WSET )的文憑資 格,亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士,並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗,亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。

Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA.  She has attained Sommelier  certification  from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia. 

Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.

Jordan Choy Certificated  Bordeaux  Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday  Bordeaux  2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.

Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師,同為一

Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College

為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」,成為中國/香港的 代表,遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。

的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業,翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作,由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。

法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師(L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux),香港葡萄酒 學會導師,曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯,撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審,包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。

28/3/13 6:01 PM


T a s t i n g

Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣, 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展,並接受不同 崗位的訓練,親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化,對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛,把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師,既能發揮其 個人所長,亦可寓工作於娛樂。

P a n e l

Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 , J o rd i 現 為 A S C   F i n e   W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier,亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項,包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍,亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。

Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong  Sommelier  Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender  Association.  He  is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t   W i n e   L i s t   Aw a rd s 2008  and  2009,  also  the California  Grapes  International Inc.,  and  the  Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員,亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes  International  Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一,自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍,更於 2006

Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼

Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”

助理餐飲經理,以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師, 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師,對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍,並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮,是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師,前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。

香港最年輕侍酒師之一,Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道:「作為一名侍酒 師,我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」

Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.

Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.

年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。

Benny Chung B e n n y   C h u n g   i s   t h e   P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.

Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in finedining restaurant Cépage as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.

Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.

Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團���食部

Gon曾留學於瑞士,修讀酒店管理課 程,回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作,現為法國餐廳Cépage的品 酒師,憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒 佳餚的搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約 七年前於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡 萄酒,也在學習上、工作上不斷加深 認識及接觸葡萄酒,越來越被這種神 之水滴所吸引。

Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久,當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間,Kevin除了在工作中不斷

項目經理,熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格,同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。

006_010_Contributors.indd 3

汲取經驗外,更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程,成為一位出色的品酒師,對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師,對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉,當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。

天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣,母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多,曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作,亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作,自此愛上亞 洲,現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。

Katrina於2006年加入飲食業,現正 於香港日航酒店工作,主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她,已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽,不但成功進入香港區五 強,最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍,被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。

28/3/13 6:02 PM


T a s t i n g

Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師,現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師,曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍,被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。

Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association. 資深新聞工作者,葡萄酒愛好者, 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。

Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Hong Kong. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites. Vincent是香港朗廷酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年,Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣 充滿熱情。

006_010_Contributors.indd 4

Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request. Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間,由 公關到宴會搞手,到作家與記者、導 師,她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。

P a n e l

Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.

Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.

從事飲食業十多年,Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 , 曾 為 G r a n d   C r u ( C o v a   G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。

來自意大利 Friuli ,長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理,現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。

Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Central Wine Club. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年,曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師,現為 Central Wine Club的品酒師。

Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the manager of Mamoz.

Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET.

曾於澳洲留學,Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The  Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師,現 為Mamoz餐飲經理。

品酒師;葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家,亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。

Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師,從事多年飲食界相關行 業,經驗豐富,現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒,希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。

Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.

Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.

Andy She Andy is Sommelier of the Miramar Group which includes Cuisine Cuisine and the French Window. He previously worked in Langham Hotel as a hotel wine steward for 8 years.

Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage.

Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年,曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作,現為Amo Eno的經理

Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作,包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille,Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines,現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。

Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition. Andy是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。亦為 前大中華品酒師大賽冠軍。

兼品酒師。

Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證

Andy 是 美 麗 華 集 團 的 品 酒 師 , 負 責國金軒及The French Window餐 廳。之前也在朗廷酒店工作超過 8 年。

Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar.

擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書,Don曾 於Domani,香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作,現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。

3/4/13 2:46 PM


T a s t i n g

Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head S o m m e l i e r   o f   T h e   A b e rd e e n Marina Club. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred  hotels  including InterContinental Hong Kong, RitzCarlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年,曾於不同 的五星級酒店工作,包括:香港洲 際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅 香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒 專業資格,也是香港專業品酒師協 會會員。

P a n e l

Danny Ng Holding  the  WSET  Level 3 Certificate,  Danny  is  currently working in the American Club as Assistant Sommelier. He has worked in the “Church St. Enotica” Italian restaurant in Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He has also worked in Betty’s Kitchen as a sommelier. 現於美國會任職助理品酒師,曾於 Betty’s Kitchen任職品酒師。Danny 亦曾於澳洲「 Church St. Enotica」 意大利餐廳工作一年,亦是他認識 葡萄酒和鍾情於澳洲葡萄酒的地 方。 Danny 亦持有香港葡萄酒教育 中心第三級。

?

Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong & Langham Place Mongkok. As a member of the HKSA, she also has an advanced WSET level certificate. Joey is now working as a sommelier in the China Club. Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐 飲管理學士學位課程,畢業後更於 美國 Renaissance Hotel 實習。曾 在香港君悅酒店及旺角朗豪酒店工 作,擁有 WEST 第三級證書,亦為 香港專業品酒師協會成員之一。現 於中國會擔任侍酒師。

Vincent Chue Vincent  Chue  received  fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine.

Casy Chau Previously worked for the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club and Indochine, Casy was also a vintage cellar hand for Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wine in Australia. Having completed WSET Certified Advanced Level 3, she is now the sommelier of the HKSA, Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International as well as a member of the Court of Master Sommeliers.

Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄 酒訓練,並取得WSET的進階證書, 同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲 得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班 牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理,對 西班牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。

Casy曾任職香港遊艇會、Indochine 及澳洲Leasingham Wines及 Houghton Wine 酒 窖 中 工 作 。 持 WSET第三級,現為香港專業品酒師 協會認可品酒師,富豪國際酒店集 團侍酒師及侍酒師大師協會會員。

We Need Your Submissions! 來!投稿吧!

Do you love sharing your favourite wines with your friends and family? How about with the other readers of Cru Magazine? We are taking submissions for a photography contest where anyone can send in a wine-related photo, and perhaps include a few comments on why it was a memory worth recording! Winners will be published in an upcoming issue of Cru, and receive a complimentary bottle of wine.

喜歡在親朋好友之間分享你的美酒照?何不與《釀‧生活》的讀者們齊齊分享這份喜悅?由現 時開始,我們正式設立了讀者投稿專區,令愛酒的您也能夠分享您的葡萄酒心得和感受,每一 期我們都會選出幾張由讀者投稿的相片刊登,而當中最精彩的一張更會獲得由《釀‧生活》送 出的葡萄酒乙瓶!

Submission Requirements 投稿注意! *

Each photo is at least 3MB

*

Comment should be under 50 words (English or Chinese is fine)

*

Leave your contact details

相片規格最少達3MB 字數必須少於50字(中英皆可)

Please send all entries to

投稿或任何查詢: editorial@cru-magazine.com

聯絡資料

006_010_Contributors.indd 5

2/4/13 6:50 PM


011_Evercohol.indd 1

28/3/13 5:40 AM


012

Cru Speech

Merlot

(PART 2)

English Text: Michel Bettane Translation: Eddie Chui

Merlot in other parts of France

法國其他地區的Merlot

From Bordeaux, Merlot spread first throughout the South West, from

Merlot 除了在波爾多普及起來,更漸漸傳到南面的西南產酒區( South

Bergerac to the vineyards of the Lot and Garonne, then to Armagnac,

West ),來到 Bergerac 區,在 Lot 及 Garonne 河流域的葡萄園,然後更擴

where Gascony is producing more and more of the grape. The

展至 Armagnac 地區,於是整個 Gascony 省份便種植著越來越多的 Merlot

wines are very fruity and soft, easy drinking and inexpensive. For

葡萄。以她為主釀造的葡萄酒,果香突出,柔順易飲,而且價格相宜。在

the past 20 years, agricultural engineers have also been advising

過去二十年,研究農業的專家也開始建議南部 Languedoc Roussillon 地區

farmers to plant it in the Languedoc Roussillon. They recommended

的農民嘗試種植這款葡萄。他們建議利用 Merlot 來改善原有的葡萄酒,可

it to improve local wines (without much success) or to make a single

惜不太成功,反而以單一 Merlot 品種釀造的葡萄酒取得較大的成功,因為

variety cuvee (with more success) producing a fruity wine similar to

能釀造出跟 Gascony 省份那些著名的波爾多酒款相近的葡萄酒。大部分的

those in Gascony. These wines must be enjoyed young because

這些酒款都是適宜年輕時享用的,因為單寧相對來說較粗糙,過度陳年味

their tannins are rarely refined and aging them tends to dull their

道反而會變得暗淡無趣。而最重要的是,產量要控制得低,才能使葡萄汁

taste. In all cases though, the yields must be kept low, otherwise

液不至太淡,而釀造出平平無奇的酒釀。

the juice is diluted and makes for insipid examples of the variety. Merlot在歐洲其他地方 Merlot in Europe

Merlot 本身艷麗而易飲的口味使她在其他地方也越來越普及,更多的地

The pleasing and easy to drink personality of Merlot led to

區都在種植這款葡萄,例如在意大利北部的 Friuli 及 Guilia ,甚至較南的

widespread planting in Northern Italy (Friuli, Guilia, and even

Tuscany 、瑞士的 Tessin 、德國、中歐、保加利亞、斯洛文尼亞及匈牙

Tuscany) in Switzerland (Tessin), Germany, central Europe, Bulgaria,

利,不少酒莊釀都造出優秀的酒款。如果處理恰當,以 Merlot 釀造的葡萄

Slovenia and Hungary, sometimes yielding excellent results. In

酒能帶如絲綢般順滑的質感,散發出精巧誘人的香味,由偉大的藝匠所釀

the right hands the silkiness of the texture and the subtlety of the

造的酒款如匈牙利 Villany 的 Attila Gere 釀造的 Kopar 、來自瑞士 Tessin 的

aromas is suprising, especially when made by the great talents at

Luigi Zanini 釀造的 Castello Luigi 、奧地利的 Schloss Halbturn 或意大利

Attila Gere in Villany, Hungary (cru Kopar), Luigi Zanini in Tessin

Friuli Brandino Brandolini釀造的Vistorta。

(Castello Luigi), Schloss Halbturn in Austria or Conte Brandiolini in Friuli (Vistorta).

在世界各地的Merlot 在南美洲,天氣對於 Merlot 來說太熱了,因此美國加州(尤其 Newton 及

Merlot in the rest of the world

Duckhorn 產區)以至華盛頓洲(例如華麗的 Quilceda Creek 及 Leonetti

If South America is a bit too hot for Merlot, California (Newton,

Cellar 酒莊的出品)卻能釀造出味道突出而又複雜的酒釀,她們往往能

Cru Speech_MB.indd 1

28/3/13 6:04 PM


013

The pleasing and easy to drink personality of Merlot led to widespread planting. Merlot本身艷麗而易飲的口味使她在其 他地方也越來越普及,更多的地區都在 種植這款葡萄。

Duckhorn) and even more so Washington State

跟最好的 Pomerol 相比。但很多時她們的酒釀都會顯得太厚重肥大、欠

(the sumptuous wines of Quilceda Creek and

缺個性,跟電影 Sideways 中的評價很相近。而較成功的酒釀會是經典

Leonetti Cellars) often produce exceptionally

波爾多調配酒款,例如受高度評價的 Dominus 。澳洲同樣受到如南美洲

flavorful and complex wines, which could

的嚴熱天氣影響,所以沒有十分突出的 Merlot 酒釀。在新西蘭及南非,

compete with the best Pomerols. But all

情況有些許分別,近年不少優秀的葡萄酒湧現,例如新西蘭 Te  Mata 的

too often the wines are heavy, impersonal,

Coleraine 、Esk Valley 的The Terraces 、南非的 Théléma 的100% Merlot

boring to drink and fully justify the comments

酒款、 Morgenster 一款類似 Cheval  Blanc 的混釀、以及 Vergelegen 的

in Sideways. The most successful wines

Merlot 酒款。而在亞洲, Merlot 也被視為焦點,有不少有趣的酒釀值得一

are classic Bordeaux blends, the best

嚐,尤其是中國及日本,泰國的也或許有一天會值得探索。

of which are highly sought after and simply magnificent such as Dominus. Australia suffers from the same hot climate as South America and I can’t remember a Merlot that stood out from this continent. This is not the case of New Zealand or South Africa, where for the past few years exceptional wines are being produced such as: Te Mata (Coleraine), Esk Valley (The Terraces), Théléma (a splendid 100% Merlot), Morgenster (a Cheval Blanc type blend that is just as remarkable), or Vergelegen. It will be very interesting to taste the wines to come from the plantings of Merlot in Asia, especially in China and Japan, but maybe even someday in Thailand.

Cru Speech_MB.indd 2

28/3/13 6:04 PM


014

Cru Speech

Acidity &Wine Part 1:

the chemistry and microbiology 酸度與葡萄酒 第一部份:化學與微生物學 English Text : Han Tao Lau Translation : Joe Lo

A few months ago, the Australian wine industry mourned the passing of one of

幾個月前,澳洲葡萄酒界為一位偉大葡萄酒先驅Ray Beckwith博士的離世

its greatest pioneers – Dr Ray Beckwith. One of Dr Beckwith’s most important

作出了沉痛的哀悼。 Beckwith 博士其中一項最重要的發現,是關於葡萄酒

discoveries was the link between acidity and microbial stability in wines. What

酸度與細菌穩定性的研究。在這裡就讓我們把他的對葡萄酒細菌與微生物

better way therefore to celebrate his life than to explore the concept of acidity in

關係的研究傳揚開去吧,我想這應該是悼念他的最好方法了。今期就讓我

wine? What exactly is the role of acidity in preventing wine spoilage, and apart

來們一起探討酸度如何防止酒質變壞,以及酸度經常在葡萄酒話題之間被

from this, why is acidity so often talked about in wine?

提及的原因。

While I have no wish to make this article seem like a high school chemistry

我並不希望把這篇文章寫成一篇像化學科的論文般,可是,我仍然要略為

lesson, nonetheless, it is important to clarify some of the key concepts

解釋一下其中關係到葡萄酒與酸度的主要概念。在釀酒師的工作範疇裡,

relating to acidity in wines.

其中有兩項數據是我們必須注意的—酸鹼值( pH )及可滴定酸度/總酸

There are two measurements related to acidity that winemakers look at in

度(TA)。

particular – pH and titratable / total acidity (TA). pH是一種用作量度氫離子(H+)的數值,亦可以粗略解釋為溶液之中氫離子 pH is a measurement of the activity of the hydrogen ion (H+). It can be

的濃度指數。pH的讀數由0至14,低pH值代表酸性較高、接近7代表中性、

roughly defined as as the power or concentration of H+ in a solution.

而高pH值則代表鹼性較高。以葡萄酒而論,普遍的pH值大約為3至4左右。

Values for pH range from 0 to 14, with low pH values being acidic, values near 7 being neutral, while higher pH values are described as being alkaline

可滴定酸度和總酸度一般來說可以算是差不多意思,兩者都是用來量度葡

or basic. In wine, pH values usually range from 3-4.

萄酒或葡萄汁之中含有的酸性高低。在歐洲地區 TA 是以每公升所含多少克 硫酸作計算單位( g/L );通常在新世界,包括澳洲則多數會以酒石酸作

Titratable acidity and total acidity are roughly interchangeable terms, used

計算。對我來說,把這些酸性物質稱作酒石酸似乎更加合理,不只是因為

to give a measurement of the acids present in grape juice or wine. In most

身在澳洲的關係,而是因為酒石酸在葡萄酒和葡萄果實之中更加普遍地存

of Europe, TA is expressed in grams per litre (g/L) as sulfuric acid. In much

在。硫酸比酒石酸的酸度強烈得多, TA 值為 4.2g/L 的硫酸已經相等於 TA 值

of the new world, including Australia, it is expressed as tartaric acid. To

7g/L的酒石酸。一般葡萄酒的TA值以酒石酸計算約為5-10g/L左右。

me, expressing this value in tartaric acid really makes a lot more sense, not just because I work in Australia, but because tartaric acid is the most

那為甚麼 pH 和 TA 兩者的量度同樣需要呢?為甚麼不只用其中一種?首先,

common acid found in grapes and wine. Sulfuric acid is a stronger acid

在釀酒學上, pH 和 TA 是葡萄酒味道中兩種完全不同的量度法, TA 可以被

than tartaric, so a TA of 4.2g/L expressed as sulfuric acid would equate

視為一種直接量度酒中實際酸度或酸性味道的方法。當酒的 pH 值低時,酒

roughly to a TA of 7g/L expressed as tartaric acid. In wines, TA is usually in

的味道會較酸;但事實上若其 pH 高、同時 TA 亦高的話,酒的味道同樣會偏

the range of 5-10 g/L expressed as tartaric acid.

酸。另一方面,pH亦是影響口感的重要因素,擁有高pH值的酒,口感會較

So why is it important to measure both pH and TA? Would it not suffice to

,這酒的味道便會變得像肥皂一般、或者不夠結實而顯得平淡。

圓潤和黏口,但若果酒在這個情況下沒有足夠的實際酸度時(也就是 TA )

use just one of these measurements? Firstly, from an organoleptic point of view, pH and TA are very different indicators of how a wine tastes. TA can

另外, pH 亦會影響紅酒的酒色。低 pH 值會令酒偏向深紅色;而高 pH 值則

be seen as a more direct indicator of the actual acid taste, or sourness, of

會令酒色帶藍紫。

wine. While wines with a low pH tend to taste more acidic, in actual fact, wines with a high pH can still taste quite acidic if they have a high TA. The

Cru Speech_HanTao.indd 1

最重要的一點是,pH在穩定微生物中所擔當的角色,這亦是Beckwith博士

28/3/13 6:07 PM


015

In One of Dr Beckwith’s most important discoveries was the link between acidity and microbial stability in wines. What better way therefore to celebrate his life than to explore the concept of acidity in wine? 博士其中一項最重要的發現,是關於葡萄酒酸度與細菌穩定性的 研究。在這裡就讓我們把他的對葡萄酒細菌與微生物關係的研究 傳揚開去吧,我想這應該是悼念他的最好方法了。

other point to make is that pH can also influence the mouthfeel of wines – wines with higher pH’s tend to be rounder and more viscous, but if this is not sufficiently balanced by adequate acidity (ie insufficient TA), the wine can taste soapy and flabby. Another important point to make about pH is that it can also influence the colour of red wines. A lower pH tends to emphasise the crimson hues more, while higher pH’s tend to cause the more bluish, purple hues to be expressed more. Perhaps most importantly however, it is the role of pH in microbial stability, and this is one of the lasting legacies that Dr Beckwith left us with. He observed that, “pH might be a useful tool in the control of bacterial growth in wine”. More specifically, it was discovered that at lower pH values, the growth of microbiological organisms such as yeasts and bacteria can be suppressed, and this is due to the way in which pH can influence the activity of sulfur dioxide (SO2), which is the most important anti-oxidant and anti-microbial agent used in winemaking.

A basic winery setup for measuring Titratable Acidity (TA), consisting of a pH probe, pH meter, and a stirrer plate. Sodium hydroxide will be added to the wine and water mixture in the beaker. The amount of sodium hydroxide required to reach a particular pH will determine the wine’s TA. 基本用作量度可滴定酸度(TA)的儀器,包括pH值探針、pH量度計和一副攪拌用容器。將氫氧化鈉 加在燒杯內的葡萄酒及水的混合物中。氫氧化鈉的所需量除了必須達到特定的pH值,也是決定葡萄 酒TA值的主要因素。

When SO2 is dissolved in juice or wine that is lower in pH values, it tends to take on a form known as the molecular form, which is more effective in

留給後世的一項重要遺產。他觀察到:「 pH 是影響葡萄酒中細菌增長與數

its anti-oxidant and anti-microbial properties. To put this into perspective,

量的重要因素。」要更詳盡地解釋,就是在一個低的 pH 值中,微生物學中

a wine with a pH of 3.1 (a common value in many white wines) would

所指的有機體如酵母和細菌等的增長會被壓抑,之所以能夠解釋得到 pH 與

have three times more molecular SO2 than a wine with the same total

二氧化硫(SO2)的關係,亦是釀酒技術之中最重要的抗氧化與抗菌劑。

amount of SO2, but with a pH of 3.6 (a common value in many red wines). This is important, not only because it shows that a lower pH can make

當 SO 2在 pH 值低的葡萄酒或汁液之中被分離後,它會轉化形成分子狀態,

a wine much more stable, it also means that at higher pH’s, much more

在抗氧和抗菌方面效能會更高。實際情況下,一款 pH 值為 3.1 的酒(白酒

SO2 would be required to achieve stability, and this can have significant

普遍的 pH 值)會比一款 pH 值為 3.6 的酒(紅酒普遍的 pH 值)所轉化的 SO 2

impacts on the colour and aroma of a wine, and potentially also affect

分子高出三倍。這是相當重要的,不只是因為顯示出低 pH 值能夠造出更穩

people with a greater sensitivity to SO2.

定的酒,這亦說明了在高 pH 值的情況下,更多的 SO 2會被需要用作穩定酒

Of course, it is important to point out that at the most crucial aspect is that

敏銳度。

質,明顯地也影響了葡萄酒的顏色與香味,亦潛在地影響了人們對 SO 2 的

a wine is delicious – a stable wine does not necessarily equate to a great tasting wine. Next month’s article will therefore deal with the organoleptic

當然,同樣地重要的是,葡萄酒美味的背後,穩定性高並不等同於味道質

aspects of acidity, and how it can be manipulated in both the vineyard

素也高。下一期我們將會探討醪酸度為我們帶來的感官,以及它在葡萄園

and winery.

與酒莊之間的操作與運用。

Cru Speech_HanTao.indd 2

28/3/13 6:07 PM


Cru

016

Corner 2013

April

07 – 10 May 2013 HOFEX

H

OFEX is making its triumphant return in less than one month’s time! To allow you enjoy the show to the full, here is a sneak preview some of the featured sectors and enthralling events for you to plan your visit. First of all, the flagship event – Hong Kong International Culinary Classics will take place in Hall 1A to give the audience a magnificent experience by gathering top chefs on the stage to showcase a fierce cooking competition. While going up to Level 3, you will find Allworld Open Cup Presented by Bols right at the concourse. This year, we are delighted to receive support from a record high of sponsors including Bols, Camus La Grande Marque, id Shoji Fareast Ltd, Monin

Asia, Seapower (HK) Trading Co., Ltd, Small Sake Limited and Zun 28 Ltd. Not only can you witness the flawless flair talents of our bartenders, you can also grab yourself a nice glass of cocktail at the Open Bar. Now carry on your journey into Hall 3B, this is where Wine Square is located – glorious bottles of fine wine will be awaiting for your sips here. Winning entries of Hong Kong  International   Wine Challenge will be delicately displayed on site to create a vibrant atmosphere. On 9 May, a tasting tutorial will be held alongside which allows you to taste the winning wines yourself!

your fingertip. You will find champagne and red wines all the way from Spain and the ”Third Spanish  Iberico  Ham  Slicing Competition”  ,  bringing forth the tempting flavour of this passionate country. On top of that, there will also be  reputed  wine-producing countries  namely  France, Germany, Italy and USA. If you are a wine lover, don’t miss this!

Located right next is the Official  Pavilions  which bring  worldwide  distinctive delicacies and fine wines at

三樓大堂將會是全球調酒師公 開賽的比賽場地,今年HOFEX 獲得歷來最多酒商贊助,包 括Bols、Camus  La  Grande

還有一個月時間HOFEX便即將 盛大回歸!為了讓您盡情享受 HOFEX,讓我們立即預覽部 分焦點展區和精彩活動。是次 HOFEX的焦點落在將於1A展館 舉行的香港國際美食大獎,屆 時將齊集各地名廚,上演一場 刺激的烹飪比賽。

Marque、id  Shoji  Fareast Ltd、Monin  Asia、Seapower (HK) Trading Co., Ltd、Small Sake Limited 及Zun 28 Ltd。 在三樓會場中不但可以欣賞到 調酒師的高超調酒技術,更可 以在Open  Bar呷一杯特色雞 尾酒。進入3B展館,一系列 頂級佳釀將在Wine Square等 待參觀者的細心品嘗。香港國 際美酒大賽的得獎作品亦會精 心擺設在場館內展出,讓來賓 一睹得獎酒款的風采。5月9日 Wine  Square現場更會設有品 酒教學坊,讓來賓能夠品嘗到 得獎美酒的香醇! 一眾官方外國參展團更會雲集 各地特色美食佳釀,包括遠道 由西班牙而來的香檳和紅酒以 及「第三屆切火腿比賽」,帶 來這個熱情國家的醉人味道。 除了西班牙外,還有法國、德 國、意大利、美國等著名釀酒 國,愛酒之人絕對不能錯過。

Not yet registered to visit HOFEX? Act fast because our Visitor Pre-registration will soon be closed! Go to www.hofex.com/register now to collect your complimentary 4-day admission pass and Advance Buyer’s Guide. See you at HOFEX! 還沒有登記參觀HOFEX? 買家預先登記入場即將截止,立即行動吧! 登上www.hofex.com/register即可獲四天免費入場證及買家展覽預刊。 HOFEX見!

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 1

28/3/13 6:10 PM


Cru

Corner 2013

April

017

Product Preview 產品預覽 Besitos Stand No : 3B-212 // VINNICO EXPORT S.L. A juicy collection of Moscato with a Spanish flare for fizz. These trendsetting wines are hard to pass up with sweet honeysuckle and light bubbles these Moscatos will win anyone over. 一款果香豐富的西班牙Moscato氣泡酒。這款走在潮流尖端的酒有著甜美的金銀花香和柔軟的氣泡。

Escena Stand No : 3B-104 // ONFLO WINES & SPIRITS LTD Cathay Pacific 2012 HKIWSC Best Tempranillo Trophy Winner. This wine enormously respects the excellent raw materials from which proceeds and the excellent qualities of the land of Finca Elez. It is a unique,complex wine. 國泰航空香港美酒品評大獎 2012 的最佳 Tempranillo 大獎得獎酒。這款獨特而複雜的酒完全展現出葡萄的特色和

Finca Elez地區的風土。

Vina Pomal Reserva - DOC Rioja Stand No : 3B-200 // SEAPOWER (HK) TRADING CO LTD Vina Pomal embodies the best winemaking tradition of the Upper Rioja. Backed by a hundred years of history in premium winemaking and longstanding prestige inside the Haro municipality. Vina Pomal承接著Rioja北部最優秀的釀酒傳統,並且在Haro市內擁有百多年釀酒歷史。

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut Stand No : 3B-326 // C. D. WINES LTD Straw yellow colour, freshly and brightly white flowers in the bouquet. Fruity notes and hints of aniseed, nougat and honey. Freshness is felt in the palate, which is tangy, full and plump. 稻草黃色,帶新鮮白花的香氣,果味豐富之餘帶些少洋茴香、杏仁花生糖和蜜糖香。口感新鮮、豐厚。

Morgenster Series Stand No : 3B-102 // YOUNGSTARS FINANCIAL CONSULTANCY LIMITED T/A GRAND WINE CELLAR Pierre Lurton, the Managing Director of Château Cheval Blanc & d’Yquem, has imported a tangible Bordeaux sensibility to the wine. The wine is one of South Africa’s most eligible wines. Château Cheval Blanc 和Château d’Yquem的執行董事Pierre Lurton為這款酒注入了一種無形的波爾多氣息,成為 南非最優秀的酒款之一。

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 2

28/3/13 6:10 PM


Cru

018

Corner 2013

April

Vinexpo 2013 in Bordeaux Vinexpo 2013在波爾多

E

very year the Vinexpo is alternately held in Hong Kong  and  Bordeaux, with the 2013 edition taking place in France from the 16th-20th of June. As the premier exhibition of wine and spirits in the world, hundreds of distributors and producers will be participating in the Vinexpo, which is the golden opportunity for everyone to display their wines. Although there will be representatives

from every wine region in France, 40% of the exhibitors will be from outside the country, with strong showings from Germany, the U.S., Chile, Italy, and Spain. For the first time ever in Bordeaux, there will also be a Mexican pavilion and a South African pavilion. In addition to the five-day Vinexpo, the International Wine and Spirit Research have also

released  their  annual  report regarding trends in the global market. 隔年於波爾多和香港舉辦的 Vinexpo可說是葡萄酒及烈酒業 界的國際級盛薈,每年都會匯 集來自世界各釀酒區的酒商參 展,可謂業界黃金商機。今年 度Vinexpo 2013將於2013年6月 16至20日於波爾多舉行,除了 法國本土所有釀酒區的生產商 均會出席外,其餘四成參展商

來自法國以外地區,德國、美 國、智利、意大利和西班牙國 家展館亦會再度登場,大會亦 首設墨西哥展館和南非展位, 帶來更多葡萄酒新氣象。 除一連五天的Vinexpo展會外, 大會亦提前公佈了年度全球葡 萄酒及烈酒市場調查結果。

More Information: Website: www.vinexpo.com

The Fifth Annual Le French GourMay Food & Wine Festival 第五屆法國五月美食節

E

very May, let us fall in love with French cuisine once again. This year’s Le French GourMay Food & Wine Festival will continue to take place in participating restaurants and wine retailers in Hong Kong and Macau for a full month. Many Michelinstarred  establishments  will also be taking part in the

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 3

festivities,with  Amber, Caprice, Restaurant Petrus, and Pierre all joining in to promote special menu for the wines o f   B u r g u n d y.   S p e c i a l i z e d workshops related to Burgundy will also be organized through the month by organizations like the Asia Wine Service & Education Centre (AWSEC), L’Atelier du Goût, and The

Food and Wine Academy to further promote the legendary wines of Bourgogne. 每逢五月,鐘情法國美食的老 饕們又要出動了!今年度的法 國五月美食節將會繼續於香港 和澳門獻上整整一個月的法國美 食之旅,更特別聯同多位高級 食府如城中著名的米芝蓮星級餐 廳Amber 、Caprice 、Restaurant

Petrus、Pierre等及各星級廚師打 造配以勃艮第葡萄酒的一系列 特式菜單,與及連串精采的品 酒會、研討會等,如亞洲侍酒 師及教育中心 AWSEC 、賞味坊 l’Atelier du Goût、美酒佳餚學院 the Food and Wine Academy等, 進一步推廣法國美食佳釀。 More Information: Website: www.frenchmay.com

28/3/13 6:11 PM


Cru

April

Pomerol by Neal Martin Neal Martin新作Pomerol

M

any  wine  lovers know the name of Neal Martin, who has been writing notes on Bordeaux and Burgundy wines online as a freelancer before turning into a full time professional under Robert Parker. His latest publication of Pomerol is all about this small and precious appellation on the right bank of Bordeaux. He spent 3 years on this book, researching and visiting every corner of

019

Corner 2013

Pomerol, researching every single plot of vineyard and estate, active or not. He chose 44 estates to write more on regarding their history, vineyards, wines and most importantly, the people behind the esates, like the passionate Thienponts and the Moueix family. Besides interesting stories, there is also useful information like a vintage, terroir and varietal guide. The pictures by Swedish photographer, John Berglund are

sensational. It’s more than a guide book of Pomerol. Neal Martin,不少讀者也應該 拜讀過他關於波爾多及勃艮第酒 的不少品評記錄,由網上自由 撰稿人,到現在Robert Parker 旗下的全職酒評人,他在最近 更推出了一本名為Pomerol的酒 書,讓大家更能了解這個位於 波爾多右岸,當中最細小而尊 貴的產區之一。他花了三年時 間,走到Pomerol每個角落,把 每一塊田、每一個酒莊都記下

來,把過去出現過的,被遺忘 的,已停產的都不放過。從中 再選出44間為人熟悉的酒莊,以 說故事的方式談她們的過去。現 在圍繞的不只是葡萄園、葡萄 酒,更重要的當中的人,如充 滿熱誠的Thienponts及Moueix家 族。當然除了吸引的故事以外, 也有不少實用的資料如年份簡 介、Pomerol的terroir特性及葡 萄品種等。還有瑞典攝影師John Berglund操刀的照片,很有味 道、很有感情。相比一般的「工 具書」,這本Pomerol有趣多了。

Henry Tang’s Collection by Christie’s 唐英年勃艮第珍藏拍賣

worldwide  where  Prooftag Bubble Seal was used to protect and promote the provenance of fine wine.

E

arlier last month, the Henry Tang’s Collection of Burgundy wine sale at Christie’s in Hong Kong totaled over 48 million HKD. It ranged from the 1949 to 2010 vintages from prestigious producers like

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 4

Henri Jayer, Simon Bize, Leroy, etc. The top sale was a set of 6 Magnums of DRC Romanée Conti 1995, which were sold at  12.1 million  HKD.  Simon Ta m   f r o m   C h r i s t i e ’ s   s a i d that the auction of this

single  collection  helped  to introduce more top Burgundy producers  to  top Asian collectors. Besides,  this  was  also  the first time in wine auctions

上月中備受矚目的唐英年勃 艮第珍藏拍賣完滿結束,總成 交額有約四千八百萬港圓。 當中不少來自勃艮第、年份由 1949年至2010年的佳釀。其 中成交金額最高的包括1995 年的DRC  Romanée  Conti雙 瓶裝共6瓶,以一百二十一萬 港圓售出。還有其他著名酒 釀包括Henri  Jayer、Simon Bize、Leroy等。佳士得的 Simon  Tam表示是次拍賣會有 助推廣更多亞洲地區收藏家留 意勃艮第其他釀酒師的佳釀。 另外,是次也是全球首次有 拍賣行利用Prooftag Bubble Seal標籤,確保拍賣的酒經過 佳士得專家確認,方便日後追 蹤證明。

28/3/13 6:11 PM


Cru

020

Corner 2013 Penfolds Grange 2008 tops RP review with 100pts Penfolds Grange 2008獲RP 評獲100分

W

e reported the latest Penfolds Bin series and the Grange 2008 just received a 100pts rating by the influential Wine Advocate founded by Robert Parker. Grange are highly rated between 95-100pts for the last decades and the last time it received a 100pts perfect rating was 1976.

我 們 上 月 報 導 過 Penfolds最新一年的 Bin series推出後,當 中的Grange  2008剛剛得 到美國權威雜誌Robert Parker的Wine  Advocate 評為100分。Grange在 Wine Advocate的評分一 直都在95至100分之間, 而對上一次取得100分是 1976。

april

50% of Château D’Issan sold!

Château D’Issan出讓一半股權!

B

ordeaux wine and property magnate Jacky Lorenzetti, who owns Château Pédesclaux bought shares from a family member to co-own the renowned Château D’Issan in Margaux. Emmanuel Cruse, the current owner and the Grand Master of the Commanderie de Contemps will keep his own shares and will retain his current position. He said that the new partner shares the same philosophy so it is a positive

movement for the glorious Margaux Château. 波 爾 多 地 產 界 名 人 , 擁 有 C h ât e a u Pédesclaux 的 J a c k y   L o r e n z e t t i 正

式從Cruse家族後人買入Margaux 名 莊 C h â t e a u   D’Issan 一 半 股 份 。 而現任莊主兼Commanderie  de Bontemps主席的Emmanuel Cruse 則保持所有股份及繼續出任酒莊總 經理。Emmanuel表示新的股東跟 他們有同樣的想法,因此他相信酒 莊會有更好的發展。

Wine Storage in the Heart of Hong Kong 港島區最新存酒之選

R

ecently a new luxury wine storage centre called Hip Cellar has opened up in North Point, offering professional wine storage equipment, a beautiful interior for visitors, and other perks such as an advanced climate control system that can monitor

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 5

the humidity of the cellar, Chubb security systems and 24-hour CCTV monitoring, private wine lockers & VIP cellars with flexible storage plans, and a private kitchen helmed by a Michelin-star experienced culinary team with breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour.

最近城中開設了備受注目的 存酒酒窖Hip  Cellar,位於 港島區北角的中心地帶,Hip Cellar提供專業存酒設備及服 務,配備嚴密保安系統,為儲 藏佳釀的客人提供裝潢高尚別 緻,除了基本的溫度及濕度監 控設備外,Hip  Cellar使用集 寶保安系統及私人儲存櫃,配 合靈活儲存計劃及全面的保險

保障,令客人更能全然安心在 Hip  Cellar的維港醉人景色下 享受其星級餐饗! Enquiry:

Tel: 8100 7866 Website: w ww.hipcellar.com Address: 5/F, Block C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK

28/3/13 6:11 PM


Cru

021

Corner 2013

April

East Meets West 展現中西薈萃

L

ocated in the heart of Wan Chai, ever since Le Chef of the Metropark Hotel Wanchai was renovated last year it has embodied the perfection fusion of Chinese and Western cuisine, attracting a loyal group of fans that flock to the restaurant every time there is a new menu launch. In March, Le Chef once

M a n g o - S e s a m e   N o o d l e s a n d Osmosis Cherry Tomatoes 芒果芝麻麵伴秘製醬汁和牛車厘茄

again changed their menu with the new season, especially with the introduction of a new Executive Chef from Spain, Francisco Pazos. Bringing in creative new dishes like  Mango-Sesame  Noodles, O s m o s i s   C h e r r y   To m a t o e s , Galician Char-grilled Lobster with Turnip Ravioli, and Mozzarella Balloon with 5 Spices.

位於灣仔中心地帶的灣仔維景 酒店自從去年重新裝修後,主 打Fusion菜式的Le Chef一直以 融合中西美食精粹的創意菜式 吸引著一群忠心fans,每逢有 新menu推出都必定會親身捧 場一試。今年三月份Le Chef亦 會貫徹其配合季節而變換菜式 的做法,推出由Le Chef來自西 班牙的新任行政總廚Francisco

Executive Chef Francisco Pazos Le Chef新任行政總廚Francisco Pazos

Pazos設計的創意Fusion餐單, 菜式包括創意無窮的芒果芝麻麵 伴秘製醬汁和牛車厘茄、炭燒龍 蝦‧蘿蔔雲吞伴芝士波和西班牙 紅椒粉辣泡泡等。 Enquiry: Le Chef – Metropark Hotel Wanchai Address: Mezzanine Floor, 41-49 Hennessy Road, Wanchai Tel: 2863 7345 Website: www.metroparkhotelwanchai.com

Mendelssohn Violin Concerto × The Macallan Bravo! Series 孟德爾遜小提琴×The Macallan醇美樂韻

A

s  a  world-renowned brand of whisky, The Macallan has always been dedicated to supporting many of life’s finer pursuits such as art and music, as those who appreciate good whisky usually love good music as well. The Macallan Bravo! Series is for those discerning individuals who appreciate the work of music

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 6

Karen Gomyo 五明佳廉

maestros.  On  April  19th,  the Japanese violin virtuoso Ms. Karen Gomyo will arrive in Hong Kong  to  play  Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto with the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Mr. Andreas Delfs. Before the performance in the lobby of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre Concert Hall, whisky from The Macallan Bravo! Series

Andreas Delfs 德爾弗斯

will be presented, providing a beautiful blend of fine whisky and music. 作為世界知名的威士忌品 牌,The Macallan對生活的品味 與追求除了在釀製美妙絕倫的威 士忌中反映以外,亦參與很多不 同的藝術活動,與更多同樣追求 生活品味及鑑賞力的團體合作, 在過去的The Macallan Bravo!

Series音樂匯演中亦曾與不同 的音樂大師合作。今年度的The Macallan Bravo! Series音樂匯演 邀請到指揮家德爾弗斯及著名日 本小提琴家五明佳廉與香港管弦 樂團合作,在4月19及20日一起 帶來「孟德爾遜小提琴協奏曲」 ,在The Macallan為是次匯演首 晚於香港文化中心音樂廳舉行的 開幕酒會中,向知音人分享音樂 與威士忌的喜悅。

28/3/13 6:11 PM


Cru

022

Corner 2013

April

The Partner of the Starred Kitchens 星級廚房拍檔

G

ood  kitchenware remains the professional c h e f ’s   b e s t   f r i e n d , and when it comes to high end equipment,  few  manufacturers are as ubiquitous in the kitchen of five-star hotels and Michelin restaurants as Swedish electronic appliance   brand   Electrolux. Recently Electrolux released the Inspiration line, featuring top of the line kitchen appliances such as the 17-function CombiSteam

Deluxe oven, which uses both steam and heat to perfectly cook a dish, the InfinitePro hob which can change the 6 cooking zones into 3, the 90cm Chimney hood which is the best for absorbing grease, and the FreshPlus Fridge Freezer, a sustainable and world-class refrigerator made in Hungary. 廚具,是廚師的最佳拍檔。一 直以星級電器用品而著名的瑞典 品牌Electrolux一直為世界各地

米芝蓮餐廳和本地五星級酒店餐 廳所選用,實用性不容置疑。最 近Electrolux推出了一系列廚房 用電器如擁有17種烹調功能的二 合一蒸焗電焗爐;擁有跨區域烹 調區,方便使用橫跨兩個加熱區 的長平底鍋和煮角鍋等;排風量 超高的90厘米煙囪式抽油煙機爐 等。最適合希望擁有一流外型而 實用廚房設計的愛美烹調一族! Enquiry: Electrolux Showroom Address:Shop B, G/F, MassMutual Tower, 38 Gloucester Road, Wanchai

Party Season! 派對季節!

W

ith the coming of s u m m e r,   i t   o f t e n feels like the next summer party is not too far away. Ve u v e   C l i c q u o t   C h a m p a g n e is a summer essential, and the celebrated winery will organize a series of large-scale celebration parties called ‘Veuve Clicquot Yellow Summer 2013’. The first one will kick off on April the

Cru Corner_ALL file.indd 7

26th at the Grand Hyatt Hotel pool, where guests will join this downtown beach poolside with Veuve  Clicquot  Champagne. Dress up (or down) in their iconic yellow and enjoy the unique tropical  environment  besides the skyscrapers of Hong Kong. There will also be a ink painting exhibition by Peter Yuill, and a cosmetic stand by Benefit to

provide  a  summery  makeup experience. 夏日的來臨,也代表著離夏日派 對的日子不遠了!Veuve Clicquot 作為派對必備的香檳美酒品版, 今年���天將會舉辦一連串的大型 慶祝派對Veuve Clicquot Yellow Summer 2013。打頭陣夏日開幕 派對將於4月26日在君悅酒店池 畔舉行,Veuve Clicquot以會把

鬧市中的池畔化身為鬧市沙灘, 讓盛裝赴會的賓客換上黃色的 Veuve Clicquot沙灘拖鞋,感受 摩天大廈中央的度假感覺。屆時 除了展出Peter Yuill充滿個人風 格的水墨畫外,更有化妝品品牌 Benefit在現場設置化妝專櫃,交 流夏日化妝心得。 More Information: Website:vcseason.asia/hk/yellow-summer

28/3/13 6:11 PM


il Pollenza 2007

Porpora 2008

PiusIX Mastai 2008

Cosmino 2004

Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver(90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses

Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze (89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation

Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012

Wines In China Evaluation 2011

Duemilavini 4Grappoli

2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli

Angera 2011

Didi 2011

Duende 2010

Brianello 2010

Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012

Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012

Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli

Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk

000_IL POLLENZA.indd 1

Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop

2721 5211

G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST

www.kimberleywineshop.com

96 Boham/ The Wine Shop

2972 7888

G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK

www.96bonham.com.hk

ABC Wines Limited

2380 6883

No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST

www.abcwines.com.hk

2380 6670

G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN

1/3/13 4:14 PM


Cru Special

024

x u a e d r o B es released!

Text: E

ddie Ch

ui // Sp

tag 2010 Vin 2 0 1 0 正 式 出 爐 ! ecial Th

波爾多

anks: U

nion de

s Grand

s Crus

de Bord

eaux

From 2000 onwards we have had some of the greatest vintages in

大家都記得,踏入 2000年,我們有好幾個被譽為偉大的年份的波爾多,如

Bordeaux over the past few centuries, like 2000, 2003, 2005, 2009 and

2000 、 2003 、 2005 、 2009 及 2010 。《釀.生活》每年都會遠赴波爾多

2010. Cru travels to Bordeaux every year to join the annual En Primeur

參加一年一度的 En  Primeur 新酒品試會, 2011 年 5 月我們對 2010 年波爾

tasting. In May 2011, we did a detailed report of the vintage 2010 at the En

多作了一次詳細的報告,大體的印象是非常好的年份,但跟 2009 年風格

Primeur, and concluded that it is a vintage very different in style compared

十分不同。在剛過去的三月,一大班波爾多的朋友便帶著正式推出市面的

to 2009. In March this year, a group of Bordeaux châteaux came back to

2010 年酒,來到香港再一起讓我們品試 2010 年的酒。品試後我個人更確

Hong Kong to show the “final” wines of 2010 being released, and I can

信 2010 年會是我喜愛的另一個波爾多年份。

confirm that it is another favourite Bordeaux vintage of mine. 今年 UGCB ( Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux )波爾多列級酒莊

The UGCB (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux ), led by its new

聯盟,由新任主席 Olivier Bernard ( Domaine de Chevalier 莊主)帶領

president, Mr. Olivier Bernard from Domaine de Chevalier, came with

八十多個酒莊代表親臨香港讓大家品試剛推出市面的 2010 年新酒。 2009

more than 80 châteaux to Hong Kong to show their 2010 vintages. After

被譽為當今波爾多最偉大的年份之一,跟 1945 、 1961 及 1982 齊名,但我

the blessed 2009, which has been said to be on par with 1945, 1961,

在品試 2010 新酒的時候已認為我會更喜歡這年份。 2010 年能夠展現各個

and 1982, we tasted the 2010’s and I love this vintage even more. For the

酒莊個性的一年,對於喜愛舊派波爾多的人如筆者,都會被那種優雅、酸

2010 vintage, it is a year where everyone could show their character and

度高而平衡的酒釀所吸引。 2009 無疑是十分好的年份,可以說在波爾多

unique style in their wine. It is also a vintage of classic Bordeaux style, the

很難找到不好的酒,但除了最好的十家、二十家酒莊能展現出個性,其他

wine is elegant and balanced with good acidity. 2009 is of course a great

的風格相差不遠,有點單調;而 2010 年,各個酒莊都能因應天氣的些微

vintage, and you seldom will find a bad wine at all. But besides the best

差距而擁有自己的個性,是我較為欣賞的。

15-20 châteaux that can really shows their terroir or style, others are very similar, without much diversity. The classic vintage of 2010, on the other

左岸

hand, is more elegant and shows the differences of microclimates among

左岸方面,兩年前我對 Margaux區的酒特別有印象,整體而言看高一線,

different châteaux, which is more interesting to taste horizontally.

兩年後的品試中, Château Brane-Cantenac 及 Château Lascombes 的 確是出眾,而且能表現出產區的風格。另一個我很愛的產區 St. Julien ,

Left Bank

經 過 兩 年 的 陳 年 後 , 酒 體 更 成 熟 , 柔 順 如 絲 , 當 中 Château  Branaire-

During the En Primeur tasting 2 years ago, I was impressed by the overall

Ducru、 Château Ducru-Beaucalliou及 Château Leoville Barton都表現突

high quality of the Margaux and St. Julien regions. Their final releases did not

出。 Médoc的 Château Cantemerle表現平穩,以價論酒實在出色。其他未

Cru Special_Bordeaux+Jebsen.indd 1

28/3/13 6:17 PM


025

fail us, with a decent Château Brane-Cantenac and Château Lascombes. For St. Julien, the wine got more integrated and silky, with outstanding Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Ducru-Beaucalliou and Château Leoville Barton. We also had great value grand cru by Château Cantemerle from Médoc. For those (including the frist growths) that we have not tasted yet, we will summarize a report after the tasting in Bordeaux. Right Bank If 2009 was the year of Cabernet, 2010 glorified ]Merlot, and the Right Bank did benefit from that. In St. Émilion, Château Larmande tasted far better from when we tasted the En Primeur, with a seductive aroma; so did Clos Fourtet that came with purity and great structure, while Château Troplong Mondot is still doing well despite all the controversy about classification. In Pomerol, the performance varied with Château Clinet and Château Gazin the outstanding examples. Especially when I look at my comments on Clinet before, it has evolved very well in the final cuvée.

有出席的列級酒莊(包括那些一級酒莊)我們有機會在波爾多品試後再向

They explained that the wine benefitted from oak during barrel aging.

大家報告吧。

Sweet wine

右岸

For Bordeaux sweeties, Château Coutet and Château Climens from

如果 2009 年是 Cabernet 的年份的話, 2010 年便是 Merlot 輝煌的一年,

the Barsac region stood out. They even decanted the wine to show us

因此右岸的酒款實在表現突出。 St.  Émilion 的 Château Larmande 有確

the best when tasting. After the UGCB tasting, we did a little vertical

實的進步,酒香突出,而 Clos Fourtet 也是表現突出的一款,而 Château

tasting of each of these golden wines together with their owners. They

Troplong Mondot在一倫風雨過後表現扎實。 Pomerol區表現較浮動,我自

explained the difference of the Barsac terroir and the wine compared

己喜歡的有 Château Clinet及 Château Gazin,尤其 Clinet ,回看自己之前

to Sauternes, and insisted that these wine should not be identified as

的評價,我有點刮目相看。他們的代表解釋是:酒在橡木桶陳釀多一年多

“dessert wine” only.

後,都會有一點變化。

Cru Special_Bordeaux+Jebsen.indd 2

28/3/13 6:17 PM


026

Pessac Léognan and Graves

甜酒

The Pessac Léognan and Graves region

甜酒方面,最欣賞的是兩款來自 Barsac 區的 Château Coutet 及 Château

is becoming more dynamic during recent

Climens ,她們很用心的把酒先經過醒酒器透氣後才讓我們享用,在會後

years and is the base of Bordeaux white

更跟兩位女主人分別品嚐了幾個不同年份的酒,對 Barsac 的黃金之酒有更

wines. 2010’s white wine were more crisp

深的了解,而我確信她們不應只冠以 dessert wine 的名字。

with less fruit and complexity, but still very attractive with a refreshing acidity and

Pessac Léognan 及 Graves

minerality. The best examples are Domaine

另一邊廂,近年不斷掘起的南部產區Pessac Léognan及Graves的葡萄酒也

de Chevalier and Château Malartic-

備受注目,而且有趣的是他們大都釀造紅、白葡萄酒。2010年的白葡萄酒,

Lagravière. Another all time favourite of

相對2009年的酒比較清爽,可能少了點濃郁的果香或複雜的口感,但清爽的

mine, Château Smith Haut Lafitte is also doing very well, and slightly

酸度及礦物仍然十分吸引,例如Domaine de Chevalier及Château Malartic-

Olivier Bernard

more refreshing in style compared to the bold, rich 2009 vintage. Other good

Lagravière 的白酒都充分表現出這種特質。我自己最喜愛的波爾多白酒之一

choices from this southern region include: Château Couhins-Lurton,

的 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 也表現突出,至於比較起 2009跟 2010的白

Château La Tour-Martillac and Château Pape-Clément. For red wine,

酒,我會說是風格不同的好酒。另外表現出眾的白酒還有Château Couhins-

we have a very good Smith Haut Lafitte which is on par to her RP 100

Lurton 、 Château La Tour-Martillac 及 Château Pape-Clément 。紅葡萄

pts 2009 vintage. The rival Pape-Clément comes out with as a complete

酒方面,上年 RP100分的 Smith Haut Lafitte ,表現也不俗。而競敵 Pape-

wine with brilliant aromas and flavours, supported by a good balance. For

Clément 的紅酒的確是整體平衡而華麗,在眾多 Graves 酒當中確實略為突

red only, Château Haut-Bailly always fills up some space in my cellar, and

出。只釀造紅酒的 Château Haut-Bailly 一向是質優價廉之選,是我酒窖中

is always versatile and reasonably priced. Château De Fieuzal, owned by

的常客,這幾年的表現也沒有令人失望。另外由來自香檳區的莊主所擁有的

a Champagne family is making some refreshing whites as well as reds with

Château De Fieuzal 概能釀造出清爽的白酒,也能釀出有深度的 2010 年紅

good definition and depth. In other tasting organized by the Crus Classés de

酒。在另一個由Crus Classés de Graves舉行的酒會中,我們另品嚐了所有

Graves, we tasted all the 2009 vintages including the the top Château Haut-

區內列級紅葡萄酒的2009年酒款,包括Château La Mission Haut-Brion及

Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion. I was amazed by their drinkability

Château Haut-Brion。很驚訝她們現在雖然年青,但已可以飲用,大都表現

at such a young age, revealing ripe fruit and tight but smooth tannins.

出成熟的果香,單寧有點緊緻但不至於不能飲用。

And don’t miss out the 2012 En Primeur report by us in the next issue.

下月的 2012 En Primeur報告,大家不容錯過!

Cru Special_Bordeaux+Jebsen.indd 3

28/3/13 6:17 PM


027

When you pick up your beloved Bordeaux…

在選好你的波爾多後…

It’s another busy period for wine lovers to do some shopping now! The Bordeaux 2010s has been released and the En Primeur 2012 is also coming out soon. More wine aficionados are now investing in En Primeur and a reliable merchant is the most important aspect. For 2010 Bordeaux, Marco Vazquez, Fine Wine Manager of Jebsen Fine Wines has the following comments, “I tasted the wine in barrel during the en Primeur and after bottling and I would say that it is a classic vintage with ripe tannins and good acidity, meaning this 2010 vintage has great aging potential.” Jebsen has been in the fine wine business for over 20 years, specializing in sourcing and pricing a wide range of Bordeaux Grand Crus. Here are some recommendations by Marco: 四、五月又是酒迷開始忙碌的時間了,首先波爾多2010年的酒釀開始正式付運,而2012年的酒花又即將展開。近年不少酒迷都開始 購買酒花作自用或投資,一家可靠的酒商絕對是重要之選。 對於2010年的波爾多葡萄酒,捷成洋行的洋酒部經理 Marco Vazquez表示,那是優秀而價格合理的一年。他也曾經在 2011年En

Primeur期間及裝瓶後到波爾多試酒,認為在單寧的成熟度、酸度上絕對是經典的年份,具有絕佳的陳年潛力。而捷成洋酒經營波爾 多列級酒多年,在貨源及價格上擁有不少優勢。以下是一些Marco的2010推薦:

v Château

HK$1,600

RP 100 Pts

Château Pape Clément

HK$1,388

RP 100 Pts

Château Montrose

HK$1,680

RP 99 Pts

Château Léoville Poyferré

HK$1,120

RP 98 Pts

Château Lascombes

HK$888

RP 96 Pts

HK$350

RP 95 Pts

Château Beychevelle

HK$738

RP 94 Pts

Château Talbot

HK$538

RP 94 Pts

HK$267

RP 94 Pts

HK$852

RP 91 Pts

v Château

v Château v

Pontet-Canet

Fleur Cardinale

Cantemerle

Le Petit Mouton

v Marco’s Recommendation Marco心水推介

When choosing the right merchant, you might doubt the storage and logistics. That’s why a merchant like Jebsen Fine Wines has built their own team to handle everything. Jebsen Logistics owns a 28,000 sq. ft warehouse and a specialized transport team. All the facilities and workflows meet the requirements of the Commercial Wine Storage Certificate and Fine Wine Storage Certificate set by the HKQAA. The later is especially important for those who invest in fine wine due to its excellence in storage. Jebsen is among the first batch to get these certificates as they have been established for more than 20 years, and their wines are in pristine condition. 酒商可靠,卻又會怕他們所選用的配送服務不完善。不少酒商都會一站式負責從產地至客戶的配運服務,保證質素不會有差池。捷 成洋酒便早已達到這點,為葡萄酒愛好者提供最好的服務。他們公司旗下的物流部擁有超過二萬八千平方呎的酒倉及專門的葡萄酒 配送車隊。所有設備、流程及配套都乎合HKQAA所定立的商品葡萄酒認證及高級葡萄酒認證,後者更是專門為頂級酒釀所設立的, 是香港首批取得該證書的酒商之一,保證所提供的酒釀質量極佳。

Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Tel: 2926 2269 (Marco Vazquez) / 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui) Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com

Cru Special_Bordeaux+Jebsen.indd 4

3/4/13 2:43 PM


Cru Special

028

Riesling Weeks Riesling之週

English Text & Images: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

Regular readers of our magazine will know that in the often

作為《釀‧生活》的長期讀者都會知道,在食物與葡萄酒的配襯之中,

controversial realm of food and wine pairing, very few types of

只有很少數的酒款能夠配得上多種不同風格的中菜,只有德國酒那活潑

wines can suit the diverse range of Chinese cuisine as well as

的味道可以,尤其是Riesling便最能夠在新鮮爽快的味道之中令人感受得

the vibrant wines of Germany can, where Riesling translates

到其terroir的獨特風格。

the beautiful coolness of the terroir into delightful refreshments. 德國葡萄酒協會在香港挑選了一部份餐廳進行為期兩週的「 Riesling

The German Wine Institute is working with a select group of

Weeks Hong Kong  」,由5月4日至19日期間呈獻偉大傑出的Riesling

restaurants around Hong Kong during “Riesling Weeks Hong

酒款、德國 最著名的葡萄品種。

Kong”, a two-week promotion from the 4th-19th of May to showcase the greatness of German Riesling, the varietal that

Riesling Week其實在2006年已經出現,當時同時在紐約、芝加哥、拉斯

the country is most known for.

維加斯和三藩市同步進行,而當活動獲得空前成功後,活動更發展成一

Riesling Week was born in 2006 and held simultaneously in

大和英國更不斷套用這種宣傳方式,現在的歐洲國家也跟香港一樣,只

New York, Chicago, Las Vegas, and San Francisco, and after

會進行10至14日的「Riesling Weeks」。

個為期整整一個月的「31 Days of German Riesling」。其後美國、加拿

great success, evolved into a month long programme called ’31 Days of German Riesling.’ The US, Canada, and the UK have

在香港的宣傳其間,參與活動的餐廳和零售商需要供應至少三款德國

continued to utilize this format of promotion, while many other

酒,其中兩款必須為Riesling,而每商戶亦需想出一個獨有的主題,例如

European countries simply run 10-14 day ‘Riesling Weeks’ like

像川菜館雲陽閣便有著一系列的配食餐牌。

Hong Kong. During

the

Hong

Kong

promotion

period,

participating

restaurants and retailers will offer at least three German wines, two of which should be Riesling, and each outlet will offer their own unique interpretation of the theme. For example Yunyan, a Sichuanese restaurant, will have a dedicated pairing menu.

Cru Special_Riesling Week.indd 1

28/3/13 6:13 PM


029

Here are some terms that may help you when deciding which Riesling to drink over this period: 以下是一些不同甜度Riesling 的襯食小貼士:

Kabinett:

Beerenauslese:

Light and the most delicate. Usually

A sweet wine made with overripe grapes

8-10% alcohol, with a vibrant acidity well

that may be affected by noble rot. A

balanced by a touch of residual sugar.

complex and rich wine with longevity. Not

輕爽細緻。酒精度普遍為8-10% 左右,帶

made every year.

活潑的酸度和良好的平衡,亦有著些微的

一款釀製自完全成熟、或已被貴腐菌感染

殘餘糖份。

的葡萄酒。複雜而味道豐郁悠長。不是每 年都有出產。

Spätlese: Elegant and more concentrated with

Trockenbeerenauslese:

pronounced fruit aromas. It can be

Botrytis affected sweet wine made only in

dry (trocken) or medium.

the best vintages. Extremely elegant and

優雅而帶集中的果香。可以是乾身的

long lived, with intense exotic fruit aromas

trocken 或中等甜度。

balanced by high acidity. 只有在最佳的年份才會釀製的貴腐酒。極之

Auslese:

優雅和悠長,帶強烈的果香和酸度的平衡。

A richer style than Spätlese made from individually selected ripe bunches.

Eiswein:

Again, it can be dry or sweet.

Ice  wine  made  from  healthy  grapes

比 Spätlese 稍濃,由特別嚴重選的葡萄

harvested at -8°C. It has pronounced

果實釀製。也可以是乾身或帶甜。

pure fruit aromas. 由零下 8°C 中採收的健康葡萄所製成的冰 酒。有著純淨的果香。

Other German terms : 其他德文葡萄酒術語 :

Trocken:

Grosses Gewächs (GG)/Erste Gewächs:

Dry. Any wine labeled with this word

Equivalent to Grand Cru. Dry wine from

will have less than 9g/l residual sugar.

Erste Lage (first growth vineyards) under

乾身,所有標明trocken的酒都只能帶少於

the  VDP  classification.  Alcohol  level

每公升9克的糖份。

usually 12-13.5%. 相當於特級田。來自VDP分級制之中

Halbtrocken:

Erste  Lage (列級酒莊)的乾身酒款,

O f f - d r y,   u s u a l l y   9 - 1 8 g / l   r e s i d u a l

酒精度約為 12-13.5% 。

sugar. 微甜,通常帶有每公升9-18克的殘餘糖份。

VDP: The Association of German Quality

Feinherb:

Wine Estates.

Half-dry,  an  unregulated  designation,

德國頂級酒莊聯盟。

usually sweeter than halbtocken, in the range of 12-40g/l residual sugar. 半甜,不受任何法例約束,通常比

halbtocken稍甜,殘餘糖份約每公升 12-40克。

Cru Special_Riesling Week.indd 2

28/3/13 6:13 PM


Cru Special

030

German wines have been gaining traction in the country over the past decade with a variety of boutique and major importers bringing in all types of wines from the country. As one of the most northerly wine-growing countries in the world, most vineyards are planted on south-facing slopes along riverbanks to benefit from the warmth reflected off the water. With warm days and cool nights across the 13 different wine regions, the grapes ripen slowly and have both the clean acidity and ripe fruit needed for great wine. 德國酒在過去的幾十年間不斷增加其牽引力,當中許多大大小小的酒廠也從德國帶來不同的酒款。作為世上其中一個最 北面的產酒國,德國大多數葡萄園都設於沿河的向南斜坡之上,令水面能夠更加反射更多的熱力。在13個不同的產酒區 中,暖和的白晝和清涼的晚上令果實成熟期變得更長,帶來酸度清脆而成熟的偉大酒款。

This acidity in particular helps it pair with Asian cuisine, where it can cut through the diverse sauces we use. Here are some general guidelines for pairing Riesling with food: 這些酸度配襯起亞洲菜餚時尤其適合,亦可以配上更多不同的醬汁享用。以下是一些Riesling 配食的小貼士:

For steamed seafood, steamed chicken, or sashimi: 配搭清蒸海鮮、蒸雞或刺身:

A Trocken Riesling or a Kabinett will be light and refreshing to match the tender meat. Trocken或Kabinett甜度的的Riesling清爽而輕盈,適合配上味道溫和的菜式。 For roasted or grilled meat like Peking duck, grilled fish, or barbecued pork: 配搭烤肉或燒肉如北京填鴨、烤魚或燒烤豬肉:

Try a concentrated or aged Spätlese to cut through the fat of the meat. If the wine is off-dry, the slight sweetness, often works well with the sauces that are served with the meat (like plum sauce). 可以嘗試以一些較集中或陳年過的Spätlese來化解肉類的脂肪油份。若果是一些帶微甜的酒,其微弱的甜度也可以著肉 類菜式的醬汁相配,例如酸梅醬。

For stir-fried dishes: 配搭炒菜類:

Stick with Trocken here, although if the dish is spicy, an off-dry Riesling will work well. 適合以Trocken配襯,若果是帶辣的菜式,一些微甜的Riesling亦能夠配合得到。

For spicy dishes: 配搭辛辣類菜式:

Sichuan, Thai, or Vietnamese dishes go well with off-dry or semi-sweet Kabinett, Spätlese, or Auslese Riesling. 四川菜、泰國菜、越南菜等都適合配搭微甜或半甜的Kabinett、Spätlese或Auslese。

Cru Special_Riesling Week.indd 3

28/3/13 6:13 PM


031

Meet the Princess 與公主見面

The German Wine Princess 2012-2013, Ms Natalie Henninger, will be visiting Hong Kong during the promotional period and will make surprise visits to participating outlets and restaurants. 德國的 2012-2013年度葡萄酒公主 Natalie Henninger將會在 Riesling Weeks其間到訪香港兼且 突擊到訪有份參與活動的餐廳商戶。

The following companies will be participating in Hong Kong’s Riesling Weeks: 以下是參與香港 Riesling Weeks的公司及商戶:

Restaurants 餐廳 :

Retailers 零售商 :

W’s Entrecôte 2506 1333

Watson’s Wine Margaret River Wines - Wan Chai

Berliner Wanchai 2891 8689 Berliner Olympian City 2148 5388

Royal Oak - Tsim Sha Tsui Ginsberg + Chan Wine Merchants Asia Ltd - Happy Valley Benson Crab & Wine - Happy Valley

Berliner Soho East 2121 8969 Berliner Olympian City 2987 8203

Schmidt Vinothek - Quarry Bay / Sai Kung Soho Wines and Spirits - Central

La Trattoria di Parma 2111 1370

Online/Importers 網上/入口商 :

Yunyan Sichuan Restaurant 2375 0800

YesWine.com http://www.yeswine.com/

Hip Cellar Private Kitchen, Tin Hau 3100 7366

YK Wine Club http://www.yuikee.com/

Amo Eno Wine Bar, Central 2954 9922

Abbelio Wines http://www.abbelio-wines.com.hk/

Conrad Hotel, Admiralty - Brasserie on the Eight, - Golden Leaf - Nicholini’s 2521 3838

Wine X Life Club yuki.wong@bacchushk.com

Koh Tomyums Thai, Discovery Bay 2987 0767

Kerry Wines http://www.kerrywines.com/

Summergate Fine Wines http://www.summergate.com/

Benson Cuisine & Wine, Happy Valley 2893 6900

Official Media Partners:

Win a twin pack of Riesling!

贏取Riesling孖裝禮品!

When dining either at home or in one of the participating restaurants during the Riesling Weeks, make sure to capture your moment with a bottle of German Riesling and email the picture to RieslingWeeks@gmail.com to enter the ‘Most Creative Riesling Photo Contest’. Alternatively, if you order a Riesling at any of the restaurants, you can scan in the OpenRice QR Code that they will provide, and you may be able to win the wines in a lucky draw. 無論安坐家中還是身處Riesling  Weeks參與食肆中,只要拍低餐桌上你正在享用的那一瓶德國Riesling然後電郵至 RieslingWeeks@gmail.com 即可參加Riesling創意攝影比賽,在任何參與食肆惠顧 Riesling更可索取OpenRice QR code參 加幸運抽獎,贏取精美禮品。

Cru Special_Riesling Week.indd 4

28/3/13 6:13 PM


032

Cover Story

吳 嘉 龍 | Carl Ng the Restless Child 原來是個大孩子 Text : Joe Lo // Image : Alvin Luk // Wardrobe : agnes b Styling : Ronald Ip // Make-up : Violet Wan // Hair : Philip Lee

I must admit that prior to my interview with local actor and model Carl Ng, I had little impression of the dashing rogue that recently starred in 2012’s The Viral Factor, remembering only his role as “4708” in Colour Blossoms (2004), where his dialogue-less character haunted legions of local schoolgirls with his hazy, almost drifting seductive gaze that reflected raw desire. He seemed aptly mysterious then, but has since remained mysterious and quite private, so my hasty Google search yielded but little information regarding his modeling career and his work in a television series. In each photo he had the same almost melancholy demeanor—half frowning and half affectionate—although alternatively I found some fascinating sunny beach photos where he lounged around topless and smoldering. 事先聲明,筆者對吳嘉龍的印象,除了近來逆戰中不知是忠是奸的軍佬萬飛,最深刻的仍然是多年前《桃 色》中那警服筆挺的偷窺警察,曖昧迷離的眼神眉目不知迷死多少萬千少女。 正因為筆者對吳嘉龍的所知

實在不多,所以拍攝前亦特地Google了一下,輸入「Carl Ng」於搜尋鍵後, 出現在螢光幕上的是一系列的大 大隻吳嘉龍模特照:除了一貫模特兒的指定深情凝望look、憂鬱皺眉look、也有令人大噴鼻血的半裸出水芙蓉 look,甚至全裸陽光沙灘小子look都可以找到。

Cover story_Carl Ng-1.indd 1

28/3/13 6:14 PM


Cover Story

Cover story_Carl Ng-1.indd 2

033

28/3/13 6:14 PM


034

Cover Story

Chok At some point I realized that most of his fashion editorials featured this

「資料搜集」至此,筆者發現,幾乎全部吳嘉龍的模特兒照片都以眉頭

calm, lady-killer image. Tall and uncannily handsome with striking Eurasian

深鎖的殺死人表情為主。擁有一副混血兒的俊朗五官加上高大挺拔的身

features, Carl was born in Hong Kong and is the son of famous 80’s and

型,出生於香港,父親為著名香港演員吳耀漢,「鬼鬼哋」的吳嘉龍曾

90’s actor Richard Ng. In his roles in New Police Story (2004), Yesterday

參演的電影有《新警察故事》、《龍鳳鬥》和《逆戰》等,大多屬走型

Once More (2004), and the aforementioned The Viral Factor (2012), he was

格路線的認真系列,Chok得起勁的型格形象已經深入民心。筆者不禁

almost always very serious but calm, strolling through battles serenely. I

想,究竟「型男」是否一定要時刻保持嚴肅面孔才能穩住「型男」之位

couldn’t help but wonder if all such men had to maintain the solemn face

呢?「其實我覺得又不能夠這樣斷章取義,就好像葡萄酒,就算澳洲出

24/7. When I mentioned this, he related it to wine, saying, “In fact, I feel

產的紅酒大多以酒體雄厚見稱,亦不表示所有澳洲酒莊都需要跟隨這種

this isn’t so out of context to wine. For example, even if Australian wine is

風格來造酒才算成功,有些澳洲的好酒也有其優雅的一面,不是嗎?」

known as strong and intense, it doesn’t mean that all Australian wineries are required to follow this style to be considered successful right? Some Australian wineries are elegant too.”

Cover story_Carl Ng-1.indd 3

28/3/13 6:15 PM


Cover Story

035

Cool On the shooting day, Carl arrived on the scene in the same consistently

拍攝當天,吳嘉龍來到現場時同樣保持一貫的冷峻,連化妝set頭的畫面

solemn manner like one would have while filming an MV, with his hair done

也型得像拍MV般。怎料一杯回魂咖啡過後,漸漸生猛起來的他興致勃勃

up rather impressively. But I didn’t expect him to be so knowledgeable

地站於吧檯前,仔細地閱讀著各款美酒,更與我們大談紅酒經、威士忌

and excited about wines; he soon stood up vigorously to lounge by the

經、食經等。原來身材甚弗的吳嘉龍也十分愛吃,各國佳餚美酒也無一

bar, discussing his favourite regions, cuisines, and wines—although in

不愛,而云云美酒當中,單一麥芽威士忌更是他的心水之選,他專注地

fact, his favourite beverage is actually a spirit. As a whisky aficionado,

對筆者解釋:「單一麥芽威士忌有著其獨特的麥芽香與果香,是混合威

Carl is passionate about single malts, explaining that “Single Malts have

士忌不能相比的香氣。」說得興起的他更親自走到吧檯處,拿起吸管為

a unique malt aroma and fruitiness that blended whiskys cannot hope

各人的威士忌注入幾滴水,解釋道:「有些人喝威士忌喜歡加入冰塊,

to match.” At the bar, he even got some straws for some whisky that

而我則喜愛把威士忌加上幾滴水,令整杯酒的香氣與味道更加提升。」

he had poured out, adding a few drops of water into each glass. “Some

素來愛喝威士忌的筆者與場內眾人在吳嘉龍的熱烈推介下,亦紛紛陶醉

people like drink whisky with ice, but I prefer to only put a few drops of

在威士忌的世界之中。

water to enhance the aroma and taste more.”

Laugher 笑 I don’t know if it was the whisky or coffee acting up (or the combination

不知是否飲多兩杯的關係,吳嘉龍漸漸由最初的未回魂狀態,竟然變成

of both), but Carl was just becoming more and more hyperactive—

了一個活潑可愛的大男孩,簡直是180度大轉變。遺傳顯然來自父親吳

like a kid that had just woken up. Perhaps he inherited a great sense

耀漢的喜劇細胞,吳嘉龍拍攝時動作多多,穿上一身西裝襯短褲的他不

of humour from his comedic father, as Carl had an array of hilarious

但舞男上身,更擺出大量趣怪又抵死的甫士。拍攝場地中除了傳來吳嘉

postures and poses. Although he was wearing a very formal suit with

龍開懷大笑的笑聲外,他亦逗得在場的工作人員都忍俊不禁。筆者從來

shorts, he would simply break out into a dance in front of everyone,

沒有想過,吳嘉龍竟然會如此搞笑,原來,傻傻的他比擺著冷酷的俊臉

entertaining the waiting staff and our team. I never imagined he would be

更吸引。

so funny, original and silly—which in the end made him more attractive than just a pretty, but grim face.

Postscript 後記 Due to the constraints of our booking, I only had a little bit of time

因為拍攝時間頗為趕急的關係,當日筆者只有很少時間接觸這位型男。

with this gentleman. But from a post 80’s girl’s point of view, a “Cool

以一名八十後女生的角度來說,原來「型男」也不一定要擺出一身型格

Guy” doesn’t need to necessary look cool all the time; authenticity is

姿態才好看,人只有最真實的一面才是真正吸引別人的地方,否則再多

always the most attractive quality of any person, as most beach poses

的濕身沙灘瞓身甫士也都只會流於表面。所以說,愁眉深鎖的電眼固然

serve only to intrigue the superficial. Chiseled features and a constantly

有其捧場客,但原來,掛著一個大笑臉的吳嘉龍卻也令人看得更開懷。

furrowed brow matched with an electric gaze will certainly bring fans— but Carl certainty doesn’t need to rely on his looks for charm.

Cover story_Carl Ng-1.indd 4

28/3/13 6:15 PM


Watson's.indd 1

28/3/13 5:42 AM


PANEL TASTING

037

Panel Tasting It is often incredible to think about how Japanese sake only has two main ingredients—water and rice. With such purity and complexity, it is hard to imagine how only one simple raw material can yield such flavours, but indeed much of it is down to the skill of the master sake brewers, who can Chinese Text: Joe Lo Translation: Ian Wong Images: Alvin Luk Calligraphy: Joe Lo Special Thanks: Gin Sai 吟彩

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 1

reveal the intricate flavours contained within each grain of rice, and coax out the concentration with premium spring water. 擁有著不可思議的米香,日本清酒用到的主要原料只是米和水,就已經造出令人驚歎不絕的滋味,而在純粹的 米香之中,細味下卻又能夠找到更多更複雜的味道與層次。日本釀酒師以精緻細膩的心思,將每一粒米所縕含 的香一一釋放, 將好水、好米的潛質濃縮在每一瓶清酒中。

28/3/13 6:19 PM


038

PANEL TASTING

The rice grain after it has been milled, showing the core of the grain 經過精米程序後的米粒呈現出晶瑩通透的心白部份

Water

It goes without saying that the rice has to be of extremely high

釀造清酒最重要原料就是米和水,理所當然地,水和米的種類和品

quality, but never forget that water is an essential part of good

質就是決定一瓶清酒質素的重要因素。由於水源對清酒質素佔據著

sake. In fact, it is so pivotal that the winery will go to great lengths

非常重要的一席,酒廠都會按照其口味風格來選擇水的種類,若果

to secure clean and pure water that will reflect the style of their

要粗略地解釋,硬水釀造的酒口感上會較烈、而軟水則會帶甘。有

sake. Although it is hard to generalize, most sake experts consider

些建於市區的酒廠甚至為了釀造更優質的清酒而特地將水由來源地

that “hard” water provides a more intense flavour for sake, while

運送到廠房。

“soft” water is naturally more elegant. And though this might be convenient for wineries near natural springs, wineries built in urban

areas often require specific transports to bring in enough quality

除了優質的水源外,原料米更是取決清酒品質的關鍵之處。別以為

water from distant sources.

一粒小小的米粒好像沒有甚麼分別,原來釀酒米一般都需要符合米 粒大、蛋白質脂肪少、吸水率好和米心大等條件。我們常常看到清

Rice

酒介紹中的「精米步合」一詞,就是指釀酒米去殼的程度,舉例說

Similarly to how the quality of the water depends on the source

精米步合 40% 就是指一粒白米被磨掉 60% 後才用來釀酒的意思。

of the raw material, the provenance of the rice used for the sake

而精米的目的就是要防止米粒外圍部份的蛋白質和脂肪等雜質影響

is also important, but brewers have to be far more exacting when

清酒的味感,從而把米心、也稱為「心白」的純淨米香帶出。

choosing rice. And bare in mind that the rice used in sake isn’t the same we use to eat. Sake rice has special characteristics such

另一方面,精米度的高與低其實也就是取決一瓶清酒分類的其中一

as having higher starch content at the core of each grain so that

種方式,跟據日本國稅廳所公佈的「清酒製法品質表示基準」,其

during brewing, excess oils and proteins are removed when the

中精米度 50% 或以下為大吟釀酒及純米大吟釀酒; 60% 或以下為

rice is milled down. The “Milling Rate” or “Milling Percentage” of

吟釀酒、純米吟釀酒、特別本釀造和特別純米酒。香港的大眾清酒

a grain of rice is usually mentioned on every bottle of sake, and it

市場一般都會認為一瓶清酒的精米度愈高,便是代表其品質愈好;

refers to the extent of which the original rice grain has been slowly

但以這樣的推論,是否精米度較低的吟釀和本釀造級別品質便較

shaved down and removed. For example, a Milling Rate of 60%

差?非也!我們都知道大吟釀是清酒中級別排名最高的酒,因為它

means that only 40% of the rice grain remains. The purpose of

在精米的過程中僅留下米心中最內部富含澱粉質的部份,所以大吟

milling a grain of rice is that many of the impurities, proteins, and

釀的味道是最清香的。但若果飲用者的本身口味偏濃的話,精米度

fats that can affect the flavour of a sake are found in the outside

較低的本釀造或純米酒所帶出的濃厚米香和則會帶來另一番風味,

layers of the rice; but milling down these exterior elements, the

而且配襯食物時也可以考慮口味較重的選擇。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 2

28/3/13 6:19 PM


PANEL TASTING

039

pure core of the grain, known as the “pure white heart”, remains. The degree to which a grain of rice is milled contributes to how the sake is labeled—there is a hierarchy in sake just like there is in many regions of wine, with the official classification system of Japan stating that in for example a Daiginjo or Junmai Daiginjo, the most premium classification, 50% of the original grain must be polished away. For Ginjo or Junmai Ginjo, at least 40% must be polished away, with 60% remaining. But while most consumers would imagine that more polishing means better sake, this is not necessarily true! Sometimes too much milling robs sake of too much flavour, so a balance is important. We all know Daiginjo is the highest rating of sake only due to the percentage of rice removed, leaving only the starchy and richly flavoured fragrant core. But the concentration of flavour is also more apparent in less polished sake, providing a taste that may be heavier, but not always worse. With different levels of sake, the serving temperature should also vary. In general, with elegant Daiginjo and Ginjo, a colder temperature can show the rich structure and aroma of the brews, while warmer temperature enables the subtleties of the aromas and flavour to shine through for less polished sake like Honjonzo and Junmai Sake. A similar rule of thumb applies to enjoying sake warm—where the delicacy of Daiginjo would often be lost in a hot beverage, simpler sakes with less polishing work better if warmed. The Life of Sake Contrary to what you may believe, most Japanese do not enjoy

隨著清酒等級的不同,飲用的溫度也應當作出適度的調整。一般香

sake throughout the year. Traditional wineries will brew different

氣較纖細的吟釀和大吟釀酒適合冰鎮後飲用;而香氣和口味較豐富

beverages throughout the year and through each season,

濃重的本釀造和純米酒亦可以在室溫甚至加熱飲用,令它的香味散

changing the style of their sake to adapt with the weather. In

發得更淋漓盡致。

spring when most of the sakes have just finished brewing, they drink drier sake with more crispiness. In summer, generally lighter

清酒的誕生

and more elegant Ginjo is consumed, while in fall, sweeter and

日本人不時不吃、不時不釀,清酒廠也會按即四季時節釀製不同風

richer Honjozo and Junmai are enjoyed. Winter is the season for

格的清酒,春天時他們會喝一些比較乾爽的酒、夏天會飲用酒身較

Kushu (aged sake) and Junmai Daiginjo.

薄的吟釀、秋天選飲豐富甘甜、味香且濃的本釀造和純米酒、而冬 天則會飲用純米大吟釀和古酒等。

Still, this hasn’t stopped larger wineries from modernizing, and with the latest brewing equipment, sake producers can make high

有些傳統的清酒廠依然會照著四季時節收成來釀造不同的酒款,而

quality sake all year round to cope with the increasing demands

有些現代化設備齊全的酒廠則全年無休,在先進的恆溫設備下種植

of the market. But since some of the sakes are not produced all

大米和釀酒,應付愈來愈廣泛的清酒市場需要。可是,一般來說有

year round and only around March (for example the unpasteurized

些酒款卻不是一年四季任何時間都會推出的,例如剛剛隔離酒粕未

Nama Genshu, Nama Zake and Genshu), some of them will be

經過濾的「生原酒」、或經過濾程序卻不進行火入(低溫殺菌 / 加

forced to sterilize or use a bit of heat to treat their raw sake. Others

熱處理)的「生酒」、或經過火入後不加水稀釋而直接入瓶的「原

will directly bottle, but without preservation, most of these sakes

酒」等,大多都是只有一年中的三月份左右推出,未經火入或過濾

produced seasonally have to be consumed within 2-3 months,

程序,只能夠保存最多兩至三個月便要立即飲用,而且清酒廠每次

hence the limited quantity of most traditional sake. Generally,

也只會限量推出幾千瓶甚至更少數量。

only a few thousand bottles are ever released, so nothing goes to waste.

在今期《釀‧生活》品酒會中,除了香氣豐郁的本釀造系列外, 我們也搜羅一系列最新推出的限定生酒、生原酒、原酒等,同時

In this month’s Cru Panel Tasting, besides the rich flavoured

加上少量經熟成的古酒,為讀者帶來吟釀酒、或大吟釀酒以外的

Honjozo, we will also have Namazake, Nama Genshu, Genshu,

另類風味。

and Kushu.

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 3

28/3/13 6:19 PM


040

PANEL TASTING

In addition to sake being divided into grades dependent of the

清酒除了釀成後可以按其精米度、原材料和釀造方式分為不同類別

amount of rice milled and the main ingredients, the brewing formula

外,在釀造的過程中成形後更可以按著不同步驟的處理而造成多款

and skill of the brew master imparts a key distinction between

生酒、原酒等,在味道上由於所經過的處理程序有別,每一款清酒

different brands of sake. Although the materials of rice and water

都有著其獨特的香味。

remain the same, the individual way each brewer handles the raw ingredients gives each sake its unique flavour.

日本酒サービス研究会・酒匠研究会連合会(SSI)有鑑於清酒的香 氣、味道和濃淡、釀造方法等,將它們各歸納為「爽」、「薰」、

There is a system for appraising sake flavours as designated by

「醇」、「熟」四大特性,而任何級別的酒都有可能出現不同的特

the Sake Service Institute (SSI) that can be summarized by its

性。我們就著是次品酒會的各種酒類請唎酒師們把各款酒一一分門

aromas, richness, crispness, and years of age. Basically every

別類,看看它們各自的特性。

bottle of sake can be categorized under one of these descriptions, which are useful when decoding which type of sake you want for a particular occasion.

Sake Type 爽

Light and elegant, soft and floral; with a thin body but refreshing and crisp.

Strong fruity entrance on the palate, rich and aromatic, round and sweet.

With a full entrance on the palate, aroma reminiscent of rice fields and grass, with great acidity and balance.

Full and round flavor of rice and ripe fruits; normally with a dark amber colour, mellow and mature.

Crisp & Floral

Fruity & Sweet

Mellow

Mature

酒香清新,入口淡爽及比較清淡,帶淡淡的花草香,明顯薄身、爽口。

酒香帶明顯水果香、入口甘甜,具豐富層次,高香氣量、甜口。

酒香醇和、入口酒勁十足,一般帶稻田米香風味,亦帶米飯產生之酸度、甘辛平衡。

味道低沈成熟、重米香及成熟水果香、酒色明顯呈琥珀黃,濃醇成熟。

Scoring system 100 point system / 100分系統

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 4

96 ﹣ 100

Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more.

90 ﹣ 95

Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring

85 ﹣ 89

Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir

80 ﹣ 84

Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.

70 ﹣ 79

Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.

60 ﹣ 69

Dull or flat wine without character

50 ﹣ 59

Faulty or unacceptable wine

接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒,各方面達到最高水準,讓人再三回味。

出眾的酒,各方面表現出色,鮮明具吸引力 。

品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並表現突出。

品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並,但表現並不突出。

簡單,直接的酒,但未能突個性。

不對眼,沒有個性,沉悶的酒。

有問題,不能接受的酒

28/3/13 6:19 PM


PANEL TASTING

041

Tasters

From Left: Timothy Chen, Glen Lee, Rebecca Leung, Mabel Lai, Fufu Liao, Ayuchi Momose, Roy Lee

Guest Tasters Ayuchi Momose Born in Kanagawa, Ayuchi is a certified sake sommelier, certified SSI sake instructor, and the Sake Samurai 2012. She also owns SAKE BAR GINN in Lan Kwai Fong. 生於日本神奈川的百瀬小姐是日本 SSI 之認可唎酒師及日本酒學講師, 2012 年度酒武士,亦於蘭桂芳擁有一間清酒 吧—地酒処吟。

Timothy Chen A certified sake sommelier of the SSI, Timothy is now a sake sommelier of the Sakazuki Bar in Hotel Okura Macau. Timothy was also the editor of “The Sake Selection” Chinese Edition. ( Published by Taiwan Tohan Co.,ltd., Jan 2011) SSI 認定唎酒師;現職澳門大倉酒店清酒盃日本酒品酒師,曾擔任「日本名酒大全」中文版編審。( 2011 年 1 月台灣東 販出版社出版)

Fufu Liao A certified sake sommelier of the SSI, Fufu is now a sake sommelier of the Sakazuki Bar in Hotel Okura Macau. She previously lived in Japan for 10 years and worked in Umenoyado Sake House in Nara Prefecture, Japan. SSI認定唎酒師;現職澳門大倉酒店清酒盃日本清酒品酒師,曾旅居日本十年,因緣際會下於日本奈良縣梅乃宿酒造任職,與 日本酒結下不解之緣。

Roy Lee Holder of the Court of Master Sommeliers level 2, Roy is a Sommelier and the Beverage Manager of the Lai Sun Group, who likes to use wine tasting techniques and theories to study and enjoy sake. 擁有Court of Sommelier第二級證書,Roy現職麗新集團品酒師與餐飲主管,他尤其喜歡使用品試葡萄酒的理論和持術應用 到清酒中。

Glen Lee Holder of WSET Level 3 and ISG Level 2, Glen is a Certified Specialist of Wine, a Certified Specialist of Spirit, and a Certified Sake Sommelier of the Sake Sommelier Association. 擁有WSET Level 3、ISG Level 2、香港專業調酒師證書及作為認證葡萄酒專家及認證烈酒專家,Glen同時亦是日本清酒品 酒師協會SSA的認證清酒品酒師。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 5

28/3/13 6:19 PM


042

PANEL TASTING

Honjozo

本 釀 造

Sake hasn’t always been classified; in fact, it was only in 1943 that the Japanese government initiated the system to facilitate the taxation of wineries. There were four initial categories, yet as the quality of the sake wasn’t reinforced around the country, grading often had little significance. In 1962 the system was updated once more in an attempt to separate sake producers into premium and non-premium categories, but this did not work well and was only implemented for a short period of time. In 1992 all the formerly adopted legislation was repealed, and it was decided that there wouldn’t be an artificial hierarchy of producers, but instead ranks would be decided by the degree to which the rice would be milled and if additional alcohol is added. For premium sake (table sake is called Futsu-Shu), eight categories exist - Junmai Daiginjo, Daiginjo, Junmai Ginjo, Ginjo, Tokubetsu Honjozo, Tokubetsu Junmai, Honjozo and Junmai (with Junmai meaning a sake with no alcohol added). In this case, there was actually no such thing called Honjozo before 1992, but after the new classification was out, all sakes with a milling rate of 70% or below with not more than 10% brewing alcohol added during the brewing period was called Honjozo. If the milling rate would reach 60%, the word “Tokubetsu” would be added in front, means “Special Honjozo”. 清酒的分級制度並不是從古到今都存在的,原來1943年的時候日本為了方便管理酒廠和征稅,將清酒分為四級,但當時的清酒 品質並不歸一,所以分級的意義不大,其後1962年開始沿用的特級、一級、二級制度也只實施了一段很短的時間。直至1992年 日本政府正式通過立法廢除清酒的等級制度後,從此清酒便不再以等級區分,而是以特定名稱來區別酒的種類。我們常說的精米 步合、也就是精米度,以及釀酒的原材料便是用作區分不同名稱定義的清酒。在這個區別制度下,清酒一共可以分為八種:純米 大吟釀、大吟釀、純米吟釀、吟釀、特別本釀造、特別純米酒、本釀造和純米酒。所以這樣說來,1992年以前日本是沒有本釀 造酒的,而在新制度實施後,所有稱為本釀造的清酒原料米都必需達到70%以下的精米度,釀成後亦可以加入不多於10%的釀 造酒精;而當本釀造的精米度達到60%以下時便要稱為「特別本釀造」。

Sake classification 清酒分類 Junmai Daiginjo 純米大吟釀 Daiginjo 大吟釀

Ingredient 原材料

Milling Rate 精米步合

rice and Kouji 米、米麴

50% ⬇

rice, Kouji and alcohol 米、米麴、酒精

50% ⬇

Ginjo 吟釀

rice, Kouji and alcohol 米、米麴、酒精

rice and Kouji 米、米麴

60% ⬇

Tokubetsu Honjozo 特別本釀造

rice, Kouji and alcohol 米、米麴、酒精

60% ⬇

Honjozo 本釀造

rice, Kouji and alcohol 米、米麴、酒精

70% ⬇

Jinmai Ginjo 純米吟釀

Tokubetsu Junmai 特別純米酒

Junmai 純米酒

rice and Kouji 米、米麴

rice and Kouji 米、米麴

60% ⬇

60% ⬇

-

Source - www.nta.go.jp - Japan National Tax Agency 日本國稅廳「清酒製法品質表示基準」

Tokubetsu Honjozo and Ginjo – same milling rate at 60%? If the milling rate of Ginjo and Tokubetsu Honjozo are both 60% or below, and also they are both made from rice, kouji and brewing alcohol, the question remains: How can the brew master put his mark on his own sake? During the fermentation process of Ginjo, the brew master will fix the fermentation temperature at 10°C, so that the yeasts will be more stable in a specific temperature and the sake will have a purer and more delicate flavor; but for brewing the Tokubetsu Honjozo, this isn’t mandatory, it all depends on the temperature that the winery originally has. This is one way brew masters can change the flavour of their wines, creating more fragrance and giving a more mellow and complex taste. 特別本釀造與吟釀之精米步合同是60%? 細心留意之下,你會發現原來吟釀級別與特別本釀造級別的清酒所必須達到的精米度同是60%或以下,然後它們的原材料除了米 和米麴之外也同樣加入了釀造酒精,那麼以精米度60%的清酒來說,釀酒師應該怎樣介定它是吟釀還是本釀造? 原來釀造吟釀酒的發酵過程當中,釀酒師會將發酵溫度持續定點控制在10°C,稱為「定點低溫發酵」,在特定的低溫中酵母 會更加穩定,令清酒的香味更純淨和細緻。特別本釀造的發酵溫度則沒有硬性規定,而是取決於當時的酒廠環境與溫度,是為 「常溫發酵」。由於沒有定點的低溫控制,特別本釀造的風格和味感上都會較吟釀有所不同,散發更濃香的氣息、口感也會偏 濃醇、更為複雜。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 6

28/3/13 6:19 PM


PANEL TASTING

043

$148/720ml Honjozo 本醸造

醇 Mellow

Yukinobosha Yamahai Honjozo 雪の茅舍 山廃 本醸造 93

Ingredient 米品種 : Yamada-nishiki + Akita Menkoina 山田錦 + 秋田縣新種米Menkoina

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 65%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15-16%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : /

Acidity 酸度 : /

Timothy Chen Soft fruity and easy to drink, I found some Ginjo aromas although it is a Honjozo, light and elegant bodied, a really good sake in the tasting. 輕柔果香、容易入喉,雖是本釀造,卻能品得吟釀香氣,酒體淡雅卻回韻悠長, 是本次評酒性價比極佳的佳釀。

Liquid Gold Corporation Ltd. // 2755 5622 // www.yukinobousha.jp

山廃Yamahai Yamahai is one of the most traditional ways of sake brewing, utilizing local indigenous yeasts (yeasts are called “moto” in Japanese) that are wild, and blending these into a mixture containing steamed rice, kouji, and water, mashing the ingredients with a long wooden stick. As the brew master pounds and beats the mixture, he also swirls and increases contact with air, causing lactic acid to form, instead of adding the lactic acid directly, which was the original way to make “Yamahai” sake. As time went by, the Japanese government invented a way to use a temperature control technique to let the lactic acid form by itself in the tank, instead of mashing by hand, called “Yamahai” (no-hand-mashing, wild yeast technique). Many of the brew masters who use Yamahai techniques face a more difficult time as the process is complicated and time consuming. But due to the great vitality and energy of these local yeasts, the fermentations are prolonged and hence Yamahai sakes have a greater acidity, complexity, and uniqueness. 山廃是傳統古法清酒釀造的其中一種技術,是「山卸廢止」的簡稱。在這種清酒發酵的過程中必需用到的「生酛」,也就 是野生酵母,釀酒師需要把發酵前混合好的蒸米、麴和釀造水用木棒攪拌翻搗,把米搗爛,同時令材料增加與空氣的接觸 而產生酸性和乳酸菌,而非以人手添加乳酸菌,這個動作就是「山卸」。而隨著釀酒技術的改良,日本研發出一種透過溫 度控制等多重步驟讓桶內的乳酸菌自己增加,再不用以人手翻攪材料,因而稱為「山卸廃止」、「山廃」。 現時大部份使用生酛釀製的清酒都是使用山廃技術的,雖然製作繁複、需時比使用速釀酛久,但由於這樣培育出來的酵母 生命力強而且發酵力旺盛,所以往往能夠一直保持活躍直至發酵末期,氨基酸與酸度數值較高,所以山廃技術下的清酒都 擁有特別濃重的天然獨特風味。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 7

28/3/13 6:19 PM


044

PANEL TASTING

$198/720ml Honjozo

Kiyomusume Shu Tokubetsu Honjozo

本醸造

喜代娘 笙 特別本醸造 92

Crispy & Floral

Ingredient 米品種 : Orginal from Mie-Prefecture 三重県產米

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 60%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +2

Acidity 酸度 : 1.2

Glen Lee Slightly floral on the nose, very intense melon flavour on the palate, medium bodied, medium length, nice balance. 淡淡花香,非常集中的密瓜味道,中度酒體及長度,平衡感不錯。

Seapower (Hong Kong) Trading Co., Ltd. // 2805 1783 // www.suzukagawa.com

$200-250/720ml Honjozo

Hakushika Tokusen Kijyuurou

本醸造

特選黑松白鹿喜十郎

醇 Mellow

90

Ingredient 米品種 : Hyogo Yumenishiki  兵庫夢錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 75%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 14.50%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +2

Acidity 酸度 : 1.3

Roy Lee Clear, pale golden yellow in colour, with rich Huadiao-like rice aromas, not too strong; stright-forward at first, then powerfully stable balanced with simply finish. A very masculine, powerful one. 顏色清澈,帶淡淡暗金黃色;帶濃厚米香,有點像花雕、濃厚而不強烈;酒體 頭段非常直接,中段力道十足、平衡力穩定,結尾簡潔俐落。是非常男性化、 力量十足的一款。

Nikken’s Japanese Food Co.,Ltd. // 2568 8118 // www.hakushika.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 8

28/3/13 6:19 PM


PANEL TASTING

045

$180/720ml Honjozo 本醸造

醇 Mellow

Tedorigawa Yamahai Honjozo 手取川 山廃式 本醸造 89

Ingredient 米品種 : Yamada Nishiki 兵庫県產山田錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 65%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +7

Acidity 酸度 : 1.3

Rebecca Leung Matured, complex and elegant. Beautifully balanced between flavor and acidity. Notes of bean curd and preserved vegetables, profound! Enjoyable and savoury, long finish. 成熟、複雜和優雅。味道與酸度平衡得相當好。深刻的豆腐醃漬味道!鮮 味無比。

Cella Masumi // 9072 1655 // www.tedorigawa.com

$95/720ml Honjozo 本醸造

Mizubasho Tokubetsu Honjozo

爽 水芭蕉 特別本醸造 89

Crispy & Floral

Ingredient 米品種 : Yamada Nishiki 山田錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 60%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15.5%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +5

Acidity 酸度 : 1.3

Ayuchi Momose Not very aromatic, subtle aroma of sweet rice, sharp and crisp; nice and refreshing acidity, a very good Honjozo. Good to pair with wide range of cooked food. 香味不太突出,含蓄的甜米香味,精銳而清爽;酸度清新舒爽,是一款很好的 本釀造。適合配以多款不同的熟食。

Global Wine Cellar // 2543 6339 // www.mizubasho.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 9

28/3/13 6:20 PM


046

PANEL TASTING

The Sake Brewing 清酒的釀造 Milling 精米 The original layer of fats, proteins, and other impurities are ground away, leaving only the starchy delicate core. 將原米外層的脂肪、蛋白質等不必要成份磨走,只剩米粒中心部份的「心白」,提高每 粒米的澱粉質比例。

Washing 洗米 Washing the polished rice grains to remove surface residue. 經過打磨後的米粒要經過洗米程序,用以清除表面的殘餘物。

Soaking 浸漬 After washing the rice is left to soak to prepare steamed rice. The more the rice was milled, the more water it will absorb so it is necessary to control the immersion times. 洗米後便要以米粒浸水,準備進行蒸米,而精米度愈高的米粒吸水速度便愈快,因此 必須準確控制浸泡的時間。

Fermentation 發酵 In the fermentation process, the sake maker will add in mixture of kouji, water and steamed rice over three consecutive days for a more stabilized outcome. When all ingredients are added the fermentation will continue, and the sugar, which is transformed by the kouji, will be eaten by yeasts and again transformed into alcohol and Carbon Dioxide, causing huge amounts of bubbles to rise on the surface of the mixture. When all the bubbles are gone, the fermentation finished. In between the process, sugared-yeasts, kouji and starches will all transform into sugar in a process called “Multiple Fermentation”. Because rice doesn’t contain sugar itself, sake can only be made using Multiple Fermentation; other wine or spirits containing sugar will use “Single Fermentation”.

在酛中添加麴、水和蒸米以進行發酵,其間隔日分三次投料,令酵母的成長和酒精 的發酵更穩定,稱為「三段釀造」。在投進所有原材料後便正式進入發酵階段,由麴 轉化而成的糖份此時會被酵母吞食,換化成酒精及二氧化碳,在酒桶中釋出大量 氣泡,桶內平伏後便完成發酵,釀成「醪」。當中含有糖化酵素的麴與澱粉質結合後 轉化成「單糖」,然後被酵母吸收轉化為酒精及二氧化碳,這兩個程序同時進行,稱 之為「並行覆合發酵」。由於米本身不含糖份,故只有清酒以覆式發酵,其他原料含

Steaming 蒸米 After the rice absorbs the right amount of moisture, the rice will be steamed carefully, with the amount of pressure and temperature controlled with precision.

吸取適量水份的酒米隨後便會被放入蒸米機中慢慢蒸熟,達成最佳的外硬內軟狀態, 所以蒸氣的溫度和壓力必須控制得宜。

有糖份的酒類均為單式發酵法。

First Filtration 上槽 The liquid with sediment after fermentation will be first filtered by pressing the lees and the other unfermented solids to release the clear sake.

完成發酵後便會用酒袋入起釀好的醪,以壓榨形式隔起業米酒及酒粕,是為「上槽」 。

Saccharification 製麴 Some of the steamed rice will be used as the ingredient for Saccharification. As the rice for brewing sake has to transform starches to sugar, it needs a mold called “kouji” to trigger the reaction; the whole Saccharification process is to make “kouji”. The Saccharification needs to be done in a warm, humid “kouji room”, while the sake maker will spread the spore of kouji on the steamed rice; only by carefully controlling the right balance of both temperature and humidity will kouji be produced. If the temperature is too high, kouji may stop growing, so ventilating by hand-stirring the rice is also very important. 蒸米的其中一部份會被用作製麴的原料。酒米在發酵前必先使米中的澱粉質轉化成 糖份,而麴便是令澱粉質糖化的關鍵。製麴過程必須在高溫高濕的麴室中進行,在蒸

米上灑上麴種,然後配合蒸米中所含的適量水份和營養素以製成優良的麴,重點更 在於其中的溫度和水份平衡,但原來隨著麴種的繁殖時產生的熱力,沒有適度散熱 的麴可能會停止生長,所以更要適時進行攪拌和通風以調節溫度。

Yeast Making 製酛 “Moto” is the yeast starter that converts sugar into alcohol, freeing up Carbon Dioxide at the same time. To make moto, a mixture of steamed rice, kouji, yeast and water will be prepared and left to develop, and when lactic acid naturally forms and becomes active, the mixture will become more acidic, causing all unwanted bacteria to die and leaving only the strongest yeasts behind. In the end, the lactic acid disappears, and the yeasts turn into alcohol; the remaining solid yeast mash is called moto. Moto is generally divided into two main categories: Yamahai (wild) and regular yeast. Yamahai making is definitely more time consuming and complex as the lactic acid has to develop slowly, and lactic acid helps prevent bacteria and other wild yeast cells that could ruin the batch from forming. On the other hand, when using regular yeast for sake brewing, the sake maker just needs to simply add in lactic acid instead of making it naturally, resulting in a more efficient and stable quality, leading it to become the major type of yeast used today. 酛,也就是大量繁殖的酵母、又稱為酒母。酛的作用就是將糖化分解為酒精,同時亦

Second Filtration 濾過 The second filtration takes place usually after the solids have settled a bit, and a charcoal filter is sometimes used. 將完成發酵後的的殘餘物質徹底清除過濾。

First Pasteurization 火入 Most sake is then pasteurized by running it through a pipe immersed in hot water. This kills off active bacteria and stabilizes the sake.

火入的意思是將過濾後的清酒加熱進行殺菌,將殘餘的酵母和酵素殺死,令酒質 穩定下來。

Aging 貯藏 The sake is finally left to age around six months so that the flavours can settle before shipping. 為使酒質更圓潤芳醇,酒廠通常會為一般清酒進行半年至一年的熟成。

Adding Water 割水 Undiluted sake is quite strong, so it is blended with pure water to bring down the alcohol levels from around 17-19% to 12-16%.

以釀酒水將原本的酒精度17-19%稀釋至12-16%。

Second Pasteurization 火入 The sake then often undergoes a bit of heat once more to ensure sterilization and sanitation before bottling. 然後進行熟成後入瓶前的第二次殺菌。

釋出二氧化碳。製酛主要是將蒸米、麴、水和乳酸菌混合,其間乳酸菌的活動會令酸

度增加,隨之而來亦會令周圍附有的各種微生物逐漸死去,留下的便是能夠適應高

乳酸環境的酵母,而同時持續增長的乳酸菌在自身產生的酸與酵母形成的酒精作用 下亦會逐漸死去,造成酛。

酛分為兩大種,分別為生酛和速釀酛。生酛的釀化造比較費時和複雜,需要使用一

直棲息在酒造中的天然乳酸菌與空氣中特有的還元菌與水產生作用來增加酸性; 而速釀酛由於直接把釀造用的乳酸菌加入,因些製作期比生酛快、成功率高且穩

Bottling 瓶詰 Finally, the sake is bottled and ready for shipping. 最後經過裝瓶,一瓶清酒便正式完成。

定,成為現今製酛的主流。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 10

28/3/13 6:20 PM


PANEL TASTING

047

Nama Genshu

生 原 酒

Name Genshu is sake that is totally unfiltered and unpasteurized, so that the alcohol levels remain quite high. It is natural in the sense of rice, and the wildness of the yeasts remain active, so although it is fresh and unique, remains stronger and more intense. 生原酒就是發酵完成經過上槽後不經過濾而直接入瓶的新酒, 由於生原酒未經低溫殺菌(火入)及加水調節(割水)這兩項 工序、所以酒精度會較高,同時由於酵母菌仍然保持活性,所 以酒中帶有新鮮獨特的香氣,風味濃厚強烈。

$2,080/1.5L

Houou Biden Phoenix 96 薰 2012 Fenix Junmai Daiginjyo

Nama Genshu 生原酒

Fruity & Sweet

鳳凰美田 Phoenix 2012純米大吟醸無濾過生原酒  Ingredient 米品種 : Ai Yama 愛山

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 45%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 16-17%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : /

Acidity 酸度 : /

Mabel Lai Very pale in colour, almost water-white; medium intensity with some blossom, ripe melon and peach on nose; medium intensity with very ripe melon and peach, quite long in length, can feel the alcohol, quite full in body. 顏色很淡,像清水般清澈;中度集中的花朵、成熟蜜瓜香與蜜桃氣息與味道, 長度不錯,酒精味道明顯,酒體豐富。

Liquid Gold Corporation Ltd. // 2755 5622 // www.paw.hi-ho.ne.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 11

28/3/13 6:20 PM


048

PANEL TASTING

$300/720ml

Fukucho Hattanso 60 薰 Junmai Ginyo Nama Genshu 94

Nama Genshu 生原酒

Fruity & Sweet

富久長 八反草 60 純米吟醸 生原酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Hattanso 八反草

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 60%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 16%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +3

Acidity 酸度 : /

Timothy Chen Slightly amber in colour, with clean citrus aromas, this Nama Genshu has a tight mouthfeel but is yet refreshing; very suitable for Nama Genshu beginners. 略帶淡琥珀色澤,柑橘系的香氣鮮明,生原酒的厚實口感不失粗獷鮮活,極適 合作為初次飲用生原酒的首選。

city’super // 2736 3866 // www.jizakeya-syoukane.co.jp

$210/720ml

Tenju Chokaisan Hana Label 薰 Junmai Ginjyo Nama Genshu 94

Nama Genshu 生原酒

Fruity & Sweet

天壽 鳥海山 花標 春宵一刻 純米吟醸 生原酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Akita’s Rice 秋田酒米

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 17%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +1-3

Acidity 酸度 : /

Glen Lee Pronounced rice aromas, with sour apple and banana on the palate; medium bodied, the alcohol is not very high compared to other Nama Genshu; nice acidity and balance, good length. 有明顯米飯香,口感上有著酸蘋果和香蕉味道,中度酒體,對比起其他原酒其 酒精度不算太高,酸度和平衡都不錯,長度亦然。

city’super // 2736 3866 // www.tenju.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 12

28/3/13 6:20 PM


PANEL TASTING

049

$265/720ml Nama Genshu 生原酒

Masumi Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo

薰 真澄 生原新酒 純米吟醸 93

Fruity & Sweet

Ingredient 米品種 : Miyama Nishiki 80%, Hitogokochi 20% 80%長野県產美山錦 + 20%Hito Gokochi米

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 17%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : -3

Acidity 酸度 : 1.7

Roy Lee

Clear and bright with a sparkling golden yellow colour; some marshmellow-like aromas; very powerful at first, followed by a serious ricey aroma and soothing sweetness, very good control. It was like a good novel that you would always want to read again. Clean lines. 清澈明亮,閃亮帶些微金黃,綿花糖般香味;酒體頭段力度十足,中段力度加 猛帶爆炸性的米香、甘甜迅速伸展而不張狂,控制力很好;結尾修長而有力。 有如一本好看的小說令人有著翻看的衝動。非常輪廓分明的一款。

Cella Masumi // 9072 1655 // www.masumi.co.jp

$500-600/720ml

Yaegaki Muroka 88 薰 Nama Genshu Shiboritate

Nama Genshu 生原酒

Fruity & Sweet

八重垣 無過濾 生原酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Orginal from Hyogo 兵庫県產米

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 70%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 19-20%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +2

Acidity 酸度 : 1.8

Ayuchi Momose Very intense aroma of yeast, some mineral-like flavors and aromas; hints of coffee and nuts, honey-like sweetness at front. Very long and dry finish, feels alcoholic at the the end. 非常集中的酵母香,有些像礦物般的氣味與味道,也帶點咖啡和果仁,初期像 蜜糖香,收結長而乾身,結尾帶酒精味道。

Nikken’s Japanese Food Co.,Ltd. // 2568 8118 // www.yaegaki.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 13

28/3/13 6:21 PM


050

PANEL TASTING

生 酒

Nama Zake

We’ve talked about how all sake has to go through pasteurization after filtration, and Nama Zake is the kind that is completely unpasteurized. The yeasts are still alive and active, so Nama Zake must be stored cold or else the flavour and the clarity of the sake will be compromised. Nama Zake sake is fresh and delicious, with a lively vibrant flavor, and has a more pure and delicate taste compared to Nama Genshu. 上文提及一般完成釀造後的酒液經過濾後,需要進行兩次火 入,生酒則完全沒有進行這個工序,酒內的酵母仍然活躍, 但比起不經過濾直接入瓶的生原酒,生酒的風味會較為清 香,但同時仍帶有新鮮獨特的米香。另外,「本生」或「生 生」同樣解讀為生酒。

$288/720ml

Houou Biden 92 爽 Junmai Ginyo Kanbashi

Nama Zake 生酒

Crispy & Floral

鳳凰美田 芳純米吟釀若水米 Ingredient 米品種 : Organic Kanbashi 有機栽培若水米

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 16-17%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : /

Acidity 酸度 : /

Fufu Liao Refreshing apple and pear aromas; crisp on the palate, with sweetness and a balanced acidity. 蘋果的清香,帶點水梨香氣,入口清爽,帶甜,酸甜均衡。

Liquid Gold Corporation Ltd. // 2755 5622 // www.paw.hi-ho.ne.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 14

28/3/13 6:21 PM


PANEL TASTING

051

$265/720ml Nama Zake 生酒

Sohomare Junmai Ginjo

爽 惣譽 純米吟醸 91

Crispy & Floral

Ingredient 米品種 : Gohyakumangoku 栃木県產五百万石

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +4

Acidity 酸度 : 1.5

Ayuchi Momose Typical characters of Nama Zake: yeast-like aromas and steamed rice, sweet and light texture, nice and refreshing acidity like melon and grass. Very sharp and crisp finish. 典型的生酒香味,像蒸飯和酵母、帶甜而輕盈的質感,酸度清爽如蜜瓜般。精 采而明快。

Cella Masumi // 9072 1655 // www.paw.hi-ho.ne.jp

$95/300ml

88 Maboroshi No 爽 Taki Ginjo Namashu

Nama Zake 生酒

Crispy & Floral

幻の瀧 吟醸生酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Gohyakumangoku 五百万石

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +4

Acidity 酸度 : 1.4

Rebecca Leung Weak nose, very little minerals, not much flavor. Slightly better with aeration, delicately structured, medium finish. 香氣較薄弱,有很少的礦物,不太突出。輕搖後好了一點,酒體結構細緻,中 度收結。

Hing Lung Food Place Ltd. // 2541 5072 // www.mabotaki.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 15

28/3/13 6:21 PM


052

PANEL TASTING

生貯存

$250/720ml

Nama Zake only going through the second pasteurization, skipping the first pasteurization before aging. 不經貯藏前第一次火入,只進行裝瓶前第二次火入

Kamenoumi Tokubetsu 86 薰 Junmai Namachozoshu Genshu

Nama Chozo 生貯藏

Fruity & Sweet

亀の海 茜さす 特別純米 生貯藏原酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Miyama Nishiki / Hitogogchi 特別栽培美山錦 / 新美山錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 60%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 16-17%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : -3

Acidity 酸度 : 1.6

Mabel Lai Pale lemon colour, medium plus intensity of white flowers and ripe fruits; full bodied, with some pear and floral notes. Quite short in length, medium bodied. 淡檸檬色調,中度集中的花香,白色花朵和熟果味;酒體豐厚,帶點梨子和花 香;收結較短,中度酒體。

Hing Lung Food Place Ltd. // 2541 5072 // www15.ocn.ne.jp

生詰

Nama Zake which is only going through the first pasteurization before aging, without the second pasteurization. 只進行貯藏前第一次火入,不經裝瓶前第二次 火入

$235/720ml Nama Zake 生詰

Shichida Junmai Ginjo

薰 七田 純米吟醸 無3過 92

Fruity & Sweet

Ingredient 米品種 : Yamadanishiki + Saganohana 山田錦 + 佐賀の華

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 18%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +2

Acidity 酸度 : 1.7

Glen Lee Very rich and fruity aromas like bananas; full bodied, with nice rice and fruit flavors on palate, good layers, balanced and length as well. 果香濃厚,入口味道有如熟香蕉般,酒體豐厚,米香和果味很不錯,層次亦相 當豐富。平衡和長度良好。

city’super // 2736 3866 // www.tenzan.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 16

28/3/13 6:21 PM


PANEL TASTING

原 酒

053

After fermentation will have an alcohol content of up to 19.5%, so wineries add an appropriate amount of brewing water to dilute the alcohol. If they don’t add any, the sake is called Genshu. 清酒在釀成後,酒精度可高達19.5°C,所以酒廠都會在入 瓶前加入適量釀酒水作稀釋,令酒精度降低,此步驟稱為 「割水」,而沒有經任何割水程序的,就是原酒。

Genshu $295/720ml Genshu 原酒

Akashi-Tai Honjozo Genshu

熟 明石鯛 本醸造原酒 91 Mature

Ingredient 米品種 : Nihon Bare 日本晴

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 65%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 19%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : -1

Acidity 酸度 : 2.3

Timothy Chen Mature type of Genshu, presenting beautiful aromas, acidity and body; it can even pair with richly flavored Chinese cuisine. 熟成系原酒,米的香氣、酸度、強度完全展露無遺,配合中式料理亦毫不 遜色。

Hing Lung Food Place Ltd. // 2541 5072 // www.akashi-tai.com

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 17

28/3/13 6:22 PM


054

PANEL TASTING

$755/750ml

Hououbiden Phoenix 爽 2012 Junmai Daiginjo 91

Genshu 原酒

Crispy & Floral

鳳凰美田 Phoenix 2012 純米大吟醸 Ingredient 米品種 : Ai Yama 愛山

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 45%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 17-18%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +1

Acidity 酸度 : 1.5

Ayuchi Momose Mild aromas, hints of pineapple, very light and smooth texture, simple and light, refreshing. 溫和的香氣,帶點菠蘿香,相當輕盈、質感幼滑,簡單而輕爽,十分清新。

Global Wine Cellar // 2543 6339 // www.paw.hi-ho.ne.jp

Yaegaki Junmai Daiginjo 薰 Genshu Shikon No Mu 89

$800-1000/720ml

Genshu 原酒

Fruity & Sweet

紫乃無純米大吟醸原酒 Ingredient 米品種 : Yamada Nishiki + Gohyakumangoku 山田錦 + 五百万石

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 50%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 17.9%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +1

Acidity 酸度 : 1.7

Roy Lee Beautiful deep yellow in colour with powerful aromas; very natural and mellow at front, lively like a spring breeze; followed by lively cherry blossom-like acidity, perfect control, with a hint of sweet corn. 非常美麗的暗黃色,帶噴射性的香氣;酒體頭段清秀自然、很有生命力、很像 春天的微風,中段活力十足、像櫻花初開一樣美麗、酸度掌握得非常完美、帶 一點點粟米甜。

Nikken’s Japanese Food Co.,Ltd. // 2568 8118 // www.yaegaki.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 18

28/3/13 6:22 PM


PANEL TASTING

古 酒 Kushu

055

Sake that has been stored for more than three years is recognized as aged sake that can mature for a lengthy duration. It differs greatly from the other sakes one will try. Amongst the four categorization of sake flavours, Kushu clearly belongs to the Mature classification, with a woody, mushroom-like and almost yeasty, ripe, and full-bodied flavour. 古酒是經過貯藏熟成三年以上的清酒,亦稱為「長期熟成 酒」。古酒有別於其他標榜即年飲用或新鮮釀造的清酒,在 清酒四大類—「爽、薰、醇、熟」之中,古酒屬於熟酒一 類,帶有明顯米香、木香或乾菌香,濃郁多味。通常熟成兩 年以上的可稱為「古古酒」、三年以上為「大古酒」、五年 以上為「秘藏酒」。

$335/300ml

Momotoese Junmai 95 熟 Long Term Aging 5 Yrs

Ko Shu 古酒

Mature

百々登勢五年 長期熟成酒 Ingredient 米品種 : /

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 70%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : -4

Acidity 酸度 : 1.9

Mabel Lai Deep gold colour; very pronounced rice, mushroom, sherry, and nuttiness on the nose. Very mature and rich; with pronounced nutty, ricey, and sherry tones; very long finish and full bodied. 暗金黃色酒液,帶明顯的米香、磨菇、雪莉酒和果仁香氣,非常成熟和豐富; 帶明顯的果仁、米香和雪莉酒氣息,酒體豐厚,收結悠長。

Global Wine Cellar // 2543 6339 // www.fukumitsuya.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 19

28/3/13 6:22 PM


056

PANEL TASTING

$360/720ml

Maboroshi No Taki Jukusei 熟 Sannen Junmai Ginjo 92

Ko Shu 古酒

Mature

幻の瀧 熟成三年 純米吟醸 Ingredient 米品種 : Gohyakumangoku 五百万石

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 54%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15-16%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : -5

Acidity 酸度 : 1.6

Rebecca Leung Well integrated matured flavors. Balanced with sufficient acidity, fine structured. Full bodied, lots of complexity, very long aftertaste, savoury, well made! 非常集中的成熟酒香,平衡、酸度和結構都不錯。酒體豐厚,很複雜,回味悠 長,帶咸香。很好!

Hing Lung Food Place Ltd. // 2541 5072 // www.mabotaki.co.jp

$495/720ml

Dewa-Zakura 熟 “Kara Sansui” Honjozo

Ko Shu 古酒

Mature

出羽櫻 枯山水 20年 本醸造

91

Ingredient 米品種 : Yuki Kesshou + Miyama Nishiki 山形県產雪化粧 + 美山錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 55%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 15.5%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +5

Acidity 酸度 : 1.3

Fufu Liao A very interesting sake with rich ricey aromas, great sweetness followed by layers of acidity, a very good sake. 非常有趣的清酒,米香味重,感受到甜味後,酸味隨之而出,是一款層次豐富 的清酒。

Cella Masumi // 9072 1655 // www.dewazakura.co.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 20

28/3/13 6:22 PM


PANEL TASTING

057

$480/720ml Ko Shu 古酒

Dassai Ku Shu Junmai Ginjo

熟 獺祭 古酒 純米吟醸 Mature

88

Ingredient 米品種 : Yamada Nishiki 山田錦

Milling Rate 精米步合 : 50%

Alcohol 酒精濃度 : 16%

Sake Meter 日本酒度 : +6.5

Acidity 酸度 : 1.75

Rebecca Leung Abundant matured characters on the nose, but disappointing on palate. Alcohol is obvious, slightly out of balance on the palate. 大量成熟的氣息,但口感稍遜。酒精度明顯,而且不太平衡。

city’super // 2736 3866 // www.asahishuzo.ne.jp

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 21

28/3/13 6:23 PM


058

PANEL TASTING

Editor’ s Choices Joe Lo : It’s been a long time since I’ve expecting a tasting like this. From the start of the whole organization, deciding which sakes to bring in like the aged sake, Nama Zake, and Nama Genshu, it was definitely a difficult task to source all of these sakes. Since many of these are quite uncommon and rare, most suppliers only had extremely limited allocation to Hong Kong, perhaps sometimes even as little as a few dozen. On a first come first serve basis, these sakes are going to disappear fast, so make your orders fast. Also when I received the sake, it was vital that I placed them in the fridge as soon as possible to keep the Nama Zake stable. The next day after the tasting I went to city’super to find the sakes I loved most, Fukucho Hattanso 60 Junmai Ginjo Nama and Shichida Junmai Ginjo, but they were already sold out! It will have to be another year till I try these creamy and smooth sakes that tasted of sweet rice cake. 很久沒有這樣期待過一次品酒會。由初步構思整個酒會,決定其中的生酒、原酒、古酒和本釀造等酒類,到 搜索不同的酒款,筆者絕對體驗到「一酒難求」的情況!由於生酒和原酒等酒款都屬於限量推出、限量派 送,每間酒廠的數量本來也不多,分派到香港的數量也就更「限量」,每一款限量酒可能只有幾十瓶,賣完 即止。收到酒後我亦小心翼翼、珍而重之地放入酒櫃,生怕它脆弱的殘餘酵母因為室溫太高而壞掉。 品酒會過後,有一晚經過銅鑼灣時代廣場,心血來潮走到地庫city’super看看,發現我在上次品酒會中的心 水酒款竟然立即賣清光!唯有期待明年今日,才可以再嚐一口幼滑creamy的富久長八反草60純米吟釀生酒 與甘甜米香的七田純米吟釀無3過了。

Ian Wong : The highlight for this tasting was probably the flight of Nama sakes that we tried first. I guess in some ways these unpasteurized and seasonally fresh wines are kind of like Beaujolais Nouveau—chilled and meant for immediate consumption—but that really is being quite unfair to Nama sakes. My favourite sakes were also Genshu, meaning undiluted with water, which is surprising as these were usually around 17% alcohol, but also more flavourful and complex. Both my first and second favourite sakes were Nama Genshu—Fukucho Hattanso 60 Junmai Daiginjo Nama Genshu was crystalline and pure, just really delightful; while Masumi Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo, was bold but clean, with great vitality and charm. But my third favourite was quite different stylistically. Hakushika Tokusen Kijyuurou was a Honjozo, which meant it had added alcohol, and it was also diluted down to 14.5% alcohol. Still, it rippled with power and had an incredibly long finish. 筆者是次酒會的心水酒款可算是其中的生酒系列了,或許是因為它那未經消毒的清新感覺就好像法國的

Beaujolais新酒一樣—需要冷藏的新鮮酒,而且短時間內必須喝掉,對生酒實在太不公平了!我亦很喜歡原 酒,它的高酒精度令我有點驚訝,但它的味道總體來說是豐富和複雜的。 我的兩款心水酒款都是生原酒—富久長八反草60純米吟釀生酒有著清純的美味;真澄純米吟釀生原酒則豐厚 而澄瑩,活潑誘人。另一款我亦相當欣賞的是一款本釀造—特選黑松白鹿喜十郎,它需然有添加釀造酒精, 但經稀釋後酒精度只有14.5%,酒香力度十足、收結悠長。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 22

3/4/13 2:47 PM


PANEL TASTING

059

Editor’ s Choices Eddie Chui : We did a sake tasting almost 2 years ago, focusing on the more popular categories of Daiginjo and Junmai Daiginjo. We can see the increasing popularity of sake in Hong Kong among our readers. This time we have another sake panel tasting where we are focusing on the less popular types of sake, to show the diversity of sake and sake culture. We also separated the sake into 4 different tasting categories so that our readers can try according to their own palates. We are glad to invite a group of professional “Sake Sommeliers” to join our tasting; they are like the sommeliers of wine, knowledgeable about sake culture and the ambassadors of sake. Some of them work in great hotels or Japanese restaurants, while others teach and help to promote sake culture through courses, events, and seminars. I was especially impressed by the following: Maboroshi No Taki Jukusei Sannen Junmai Ginjo The most interesting category of sake in this tasting is the Koshu. Their taste is more intense, rich, with more tertiary aromas and flavours reminiscent of animal or mushroom, which we might never expect from a sake. Among the Koshu we tasted, I like this the most as it had a complete, balanced, and nuanced bouquet. It isn’t too strong and reminded me of Sherry from Spain. Hakushika Tokusen Kijyuurou My general impression of Honjozo is that it is simple with an intense rice flavor, spicy, and rustic. This special Honjozo is more elegant with some complexity. It is still rich enough for strong flavoured food like Teppanyaki and Robatayaki. Houou Biden Junmai Ginjyo Kanbashi The focus of Nama is the fresh bouquet of rice. This unpasteurized sake is like an unfiltered wine, expressing more of the grape. This is a typical well made Nama which shows a crisp nose with a touch of interesting fruit character which is very refreshing. 還記得前一年的清酒品評,主要集中最常見的吟釀酒系,從讀者的回響中可見日本清酒在香港的受歡迎程度與日俱增。 因此我們一直希望再次舉行一次日本清酒品評,而今次的清酒品評中,我們選擇了大家可能較少注意的品種,希望籍此 讓大家更了解日本的清酒文化。我們也把每款酒歸納為四種個性,使大家可以籍此選擇自己喜愛的味道。 我們也很高興請來一班專業的清酒「唎酒師」們為我們品評,他們相當於葡萄酒的品酒師一樣,對各款清酒的特性暸如 指掌,是日本清酒文化的代言人。他們不單在餐廳為客人打點用餐的清酒,也會開班授徒,讓大家更認識、了解日本清 酒文化。大家不妨留意一下坊間那些有認證的唎酒師所開的清酒班。 這次品評中印象較深刻的有: 幻之瀧熟成三年純米吟釀 今次品評當中最特別的要算是古酒,也是大家較少接觸的。她們的味道偏向濃郁,帶有較多野味或菇類味道,大家都 不會預計清酒會有這種味道。在幾款古酒中,我覺得她最完整、平衡而有層次感。味道不會過濃或過淡,有點西班牙

Sherry酒的影子。 特選黑松白鹿喜十郎特別本釀造 一般本釀造給人印象是米味香濃,但入口較粗糙、辛辣,這款特別本釀造卻是比較幼細而且入口不會過於簡單、味道單 一。但她濃厚的味道絕對可以用來配襯如鐵板燒或爐端燒等重口味食物。 鳳凰美田芳純米吟釀若水米生酒 生酒吸引人之處是清爽的香味跟新鮮的米香。沒有經過「火入」的生酒就好像未經過濾的葡萄酒般,充滿朝氣。這款生 酒便完全乎合生酒的特質,清爽而帶陣陣米香,有趣的是那點水果氣息,感覺清新。

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 23

28/3/13 6:23 PM


060

PANEL TASTING

結 論

Conclusion

Houou Biden Phoenix 2012 Fenix Junmai Daiginjo - Nama Genshu 鳳凰美田 Phoenix 2012純米大吟醸無濾過生原酒 - 生原酒 Fukucho Hattanso 60 Junmai Ginjo Nama - Nama Genshu 富久長 八反草 60 純米吟醸 生酒 - 生原酒

Kiyomusume Shu - Honjozo 喜代娘 笙 特別本醸造 - 本醸造 Mizubasho Tokubetsu Honjozo - Honjozo 水芭蕉 特別本醸造- 本醸造 Houou Biden Junmai Ginjo Kanbashi - Nama Zake 鳳凰美田 芳純米吟釀若水米 - 生酒 Sohomare Junmai Ginjo - Nama Zake 惣譽 純米吟醸 - 生酒 Maboroshi No Taki Ginjo Namashu- Nama Zake 幻の瀧 吟醸生酒 - 生酒 Hououbiden Phoenix 2012 Junmai Daiginjo - Genshu 鳳凰美田 Phoenix 2012 純米大吟醸 - 原酒

Yaegaki Muroka Nama Genshu Shiboritate - Nama Genshu 八重垣 無過濾 生原酒 - 生原酒 Kamenoumi Tokubetsu Junmei Namachozoshu Genshu - Nama Chozo 亀の海 茜さす 特別純米 生貯藏原酒 - 生貯藏 Shichida Junmai Ginjo - Nama Zake 七田 純米吟醸 無3過 - 生詰 Yaegaki Junmai Daiginjo Genshu Shikon No Mu - Genshu 紫乃無純米大吟醸原酒 - 原酒 Tenju Chokaisan Hana Label Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu - Nama Genshu 天壽 鳥海山 花標 春宵一刻 純米吟醸 生原酒 - 生原酒 Masumi Nama Genshu Junmai Ginjo - Nama Genshu 真澄 生原新酒 純米吟醸 - 生原酒

爽 薰Mature, Fruity & Sweet Mellow 醇 熟Mature Mature

Akashi-Tai Honjozo Genshu - Genshu 明石鯛 本醸造原酒 - 原酒 Hakushika Tokusen Kijyuurou - Honjozo 特選黑松白鹿喜十郎 - 本醸造 Tedorigawa Yamahai Honjozo - Honjozo 手取川 山廃式 本醸造 - 本醸造 Yukinobosha Yamahai Honjozo - Honjozo 雪の茅舍 山廃 本醸造 - 本醸造

Momotoese Junmai Long Term Aging 5 Yrs - Ko Shu 百々登勢五年 長期熟成酒 - 古酒 Maboroshi No Taki Jukusei Sannen Junmai Ginjo - Ko Shu 幻の瀧 熟成三年 純米吟醸 - 古酒 Dewa-Zakura “Kara Sansui” Honjozo - Ko Shu 出羽櫻 枯山水 20年 本醸造 - 古酒 Dassai Ku Shu Junmai Ginjo - Ko Shu 獺祭 古酒 純米吟醸 - 古酒

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 24

28/3/13 6:23 PM


PANEL TASTING

061

Between the four main types of flavours of sake, the “Crispy & Floral” type has a light aroma and its aftertaste is not obvious; usually most of them are Nama Zake, Honjozo or Futsu-shu. In this panel tasting, we had lots of Nama Zake and Tokubetsu Honjozo, and only one sake from the Genshu category had this crisp aspect—the Hououbiden Phoenix 2012 Junmai Daiginjo. Most of the sakes falling into the “Fruity & Sweet” category had a rich and fruity aroma that was easy to drink, and most are Ginjo and Daiginjo. In this tasting, all Nama Genshu and Nama Zake fell into this category as they were pasteurized only once (the first time or second time), presenting a rich and thick mouthfeel and sweetness. The three “Mellow” sakes are all Honjozo, but two were Yamahei Honjozo, preserving a full rice-y and starch-like sweetness, while the last was Hakushika Tokusen Kijyuurou Honjozo, with a rich ricey aroma, and a strong, powerful body. Lastly, the “Mature” category is the most outstanding of them all. Extremely rich with layers of ricey, mushroom-like aromas, most of them are Kushu. Just like this time, all Kushu falls into the “Mature” category, and the unique dried-fungi nose just can’t be mistaken. What’s important is, although one of the Genshu—the Akashi-Tai Honjozo Genshu—is not a Kushu, its unique woody aromas allows it to become the only “Mature” Genshu. Although in this panel tasting we’ve tried lots of different type of sakes that finished in different stages and we ‘ve introduced each step for brewing sake, there is just so much more to discover, and we hope we can bring different things for you to learn next time! 在日本清酒的四大特性中,爽酒的香氣清淡、餘韻不太明顯,大多屬於生酒、本釀造或普通酒, 然而是次的爽酒類別中也都是以生酒和特別本釀造為主,只有鳳凰美田Phoenix2012純米大吟釀一 款原酒有著清香的爽酒特性。 而薰酒方面,由於它的特性富有豐郁的果香,香味而且易入口,大多吟釀和大吟釀都屬就這個類 別,而是次的清酒之中,所有生原酒、生貯藏和生詰都被歸納為薰酒類,由於這些酒款都未經火 入或只進行兩次其中一次火入,酒液中殘留的濃厚口感和甘甜更是異常突出。 是次的三款醇酒中全部屬於本釀造,除了兩款使用山廢技術的雪,保留豐富米飯香氣的澱粉質甜 味外, 一款特選黑松白鹿喜十郎本釀造亦以其濃郁的稻米香和酒勁十足而被歸納為醇酒類。 最後熟酒方面,更是所有酒香之中最突出的,熟酒的味道濃郁而富層次,除了米香外,有些更帶 有獨特的乾菇菌香,多數屬於古酒。是次的古酒也絕不例外,全部歸屬為古酒類別,這些古酒中 所含有的乾菌香十分獨特,是一般未經熟成的清酒無法媲美的。值得一提的是,其中一款明石鯛 本釀造原酒雖不屬古酒之列,然而它本身帶有的獨特木香卻令它成為熟酒類別中唯一的原酒款。 雖然今次品酒會我們品嘗過許多不同釀酒程序中的酒款,同時也跟隨著釀酒的程序,一步一步介 紹了其中的製成品,也看到每一個階段所帶來的效果。可是,清酒的世界又何此這些?期待下一 次的清酒品酒會,《釀‧生活》將為您帶來更多!

Panel Tasting_Sake.indd 25

28/3/13 6:23 PM


The World of

Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we present you with the cult favourite “Blue Oak” winery—Chêne Blue—before following the professional team of L’Impertrice into the Cote d’Or for the latest Burgundy news. Moving out of France for a bit we then introduce the newly released I Cjamps wines from the Italian winery Piera Martellozzo to learn more about local Italian grapes. Lastly, Cru even flew to Burgundy and joined the exciting festival St Vincent Tournante 2013. 每一期《釀‧生活》的The World of Wines,我們都會為你走訪來自世 界各地的酒莊,探索每一瓶葡萄酒、每一位辛勤的釀酒師、每一個成功 品牌背後的故事。今期將率先為大家介紹以葡萄園中「藍色橡樹」作酒 瓶標籤的著名酒莊Chêne Bleu;然後由母儀美酒的專業團隊帶來Cote

d’Or的最新葡萄酒資訊;又會介紹來自意大利Piera Martellozzo的 I Cjamps,看看些由意大利本土品種釀製的最新酒款系列。最後, 《釀‧生活》更親身飛到勃艮第,參與一年一度的盛典聖文森節。

WOW_opening_028.indd 1

28/3/13 6:16 PM


063

The World of

Wines

A Love Affair With

(White and Red) Grenache - 愛上Grenache紅與白h

Chêne Bleu

Mount Ventoux, Provence English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

WOW_Chene Bleu.indd 1

28/3/13 6:24 PM


064

The World of

Wines

On the label adorning each bottle of cult winery Chêne Bleu, a fat and gnarled blue tree is depicted lording over both man and beast, commanding an almost reverential respect. It is the namesake of the winery and a tribute to an ancient oak tree situated in the midst of their vineyards—a sign of deference for the terroir. Fowl, hedgehogs, and foxes dance with singing revellers in symbolic harmony, and like a Buddhist Mandala, which means ‘circle’ in Sanskrit and symbolizes balance in life, highlights tranquillity in the vineyard. You could say I’m grasping for straws or that it is utterly coincidental, but it almost seemed as if the artist wanted to reflect on the role of biodynamics (which promotes the benefits of biodiversity and sustainable farming) on the winery—a philosophy that Nicole Rolet, owner of Chêne Bleu, wholeheartedly believes in. 在出品備受追捧的Chêne Bleu酒瓶標籤上,一株肥厚而粗糙的藍色樹幹盤踞

“Every winemaker obsessed with quality eventually ends up with

著人與畜之上,就好像一株神聖的守護之樹。酒莊亦索性以此來命名,向這株

biodynamicism,” said Nicole when I met her in Hong Kong last year, and as

在葡萄園中央屹立不倒的古老橡樹致敬。各種禽畜、刺蝟和狐狸圍繞著樹幹縱

a charmingly unyielding perfectionist, she and her team—husband Xavier

酒狂歡著,象徵著物種之間的和諧,又如佛教中的曼陀羅,梵文裡意為生命中

Rolet, viticulturist and sister-in-law Benedict Galluci, and brother-in-law/

的平衡,顯出葡萄園中萬物所縕藏的寧與靜。

winemaker Jean-Louis Galluci—have insisted on biodynamic agriculture since their first vintage in 2006.

你或許會認為我這樣的說法完全是無中生有、又或者完全地符合,但其實繪畫 者希望表達的卻是生物動力耕作法所帶來,所造就的生物多樣化與可持續耕

“The raison d’etre that we feel really excited about the possibility of a very unique expression of wine is because of our location,” explained Nicole. “Geologically we are in Provence, but oenologically we are in Rhône, near Gigondas. We get the cold wind that dries and concentrates the wine— classic Châteauneuf weather for ripe sticky fruit—but since we are in the mountains, we have huge temperature variation from night and day, so

WOW_Chene Bleu.indd 2

作等等的好處,也是Chêne Bleu的莊主Nicole Rolet全心投入的哲學與信念。 「每一個追求品質的釀酒師最終都會投進生物動力耕作法的懷抱。」Nicole去 年在香港時說。作為一個不屈不撓的完美主義者,她與她的丈夫Xavier Rolet、 丈夫的姊妹暨葡萄栽培者 Benedict  Galluci 和丈夫的兄弟暨釀酒師 Jean-

Louis Galluci—由他們的第一個年份2006已經堅持使用生物動力耕作法。

28/3/13 6:24 PM


065

The World of

Wines

「在表達葡萄酒的獨特性時,令我們最感興奮的絕對是我們的地理位置。」

Nicole說道:「地理上我們身在普羅旺斯,但釀酒學上來說我們卻身在隆河 谷,Gigondas的旁邊。我們擁有典型的教皇新堡天氣,乾燥且清涼的風配上 成熟而漿果般的果實,但由於我們位置是在山上,日夜溫差相當大,所以我們 的酒都有著較明確的酸度與隆河谷北部的礦物風味。」 我 品 嘗 了 他 們 系 列 中 的 酒 款 , 包 括 令 人 印 象 深 刻 的 Rosé  2011 ( 60%

Grenache及40% Syrah),以free-run的果汁釀製,還有那優雅富豐郁香氣 的Viognier。另一款Chêne Bleu Heloise 2006(65% Syrah、30% Grenache 和5% Viognier)亦相當吸引,非常集中的酒體,收結帶些微辛辣和酒精的餘 韻。Chêne Bleu Abelard 2006(90% Grenache及10% Syrah)則更加令我 愛上,它有著良好的平衡和成熟度,Grenache的味道發揮得相當之好。然而 我最欣賞的是Chêne Bleu Aliot 2007(60% Roussanne、5% Marsanne及

our wines have more of the acidity and the minerality of wines from the Northern Rhone.”

30% White Grenache),帶有金黃色的酒液,花香新鮮而緊湊,美妙地融合 了來自橡木的雲呢拿香。這款酒陳年得相當之好,而且應該可以再作陳年,尤 其是當中的礦物集中力和圓潤的酸度。

I tried a selection of their portfolio including their impressive Rosé 2011 (60% Grenache, 40% Syrah), which is made using only free-run juice, and their elegant, but aromatic Viognier 2009. Chêne Bleu Heloise 2006 (65% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% Viognier) was attractive with superb concentration, but was perhaps a bit hot and alcoholic on the finish. Chêne Bleu Abelard 2006 (90% Grenache and 10% Syrah) was far more impressive to me with great balance and ripeness, and I love the reflection of Grenache in this estate. Still, my favourite was Chêne Bleu Aliot 2007 (Roussanne 65%, Marsanne 5%, and White Grenache 30%), which was golden and taut with fresh floral notes and well integrated vanilla flavours from the oak. It definitely has aged well and should improve, especially with the mineral concentration and rounded acidity.

WOW_Chene Bleu.indd 3

28/3/13 6:24 PM


066

The World of

Wines

The Pursuit of

Terroir in the Cotes 對Terroir的 完 美 追 求 English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

Pinot Noir is unarguably one of the finest, most exciting and “blue blooded” grape varieties in the world, dominating the vineyards of Burgundy. On the other hand, Chardonnay is the only white representative that has also undoubtedly outshone its other “sisters” as the ultimate white grape—with its flexible nature that enables it to follow different climatic patterns and winemaking methods, and its amazing potential to evolve into truly great wine. These two stunning beauties can easily reflect the honesty of terroir—forcing their producers to seek out perfection through the utmost care of vineyards using organic and biodynamic viticulture. It is with such belief that L’Imperatrice has been working with only some of the most dedicated terroir-driven producers in its portfolio. This time, their team visited a scope of famed and upcoming domaines with the aim of providing our readers with an insider’s point of view into these terroir-driven estates. The founder of L’Imperatrice Julien Froger and two veteran members of his team Jessica Chan and Sora Chan recently returned from the Côte d’Or, and have presented us with their report... Pinot Noir無疑地算是世界上其中一種最優秀、最有趣的「貴族」葡萄品種,尤其是在勃艮第地區內,而Chardonnay亦是白葡萄之中,唯 一比起其「姊妹」品種有著更靈活的天性,能夠在不同的氣候和釀酒方法之下生存,釀成擁有無限潛力的偉大酒款。以上兩款美妙非常的 葡萄更是反映土地特性terroir的最佳品種,以有機和生物動力耕作法呈現出葡萄園最自然而成的本質。 母儀美酒一直也跟這些由terroir主導的產酒商合作良久,日前他們的專業團隊便探訪了一系列著名的酒莊,為《釀‧生活》讀者們提供更多 業界觀點與角度出發的意見,深入探討這些酒莊的出品。 創立母儀美酒的Julien Froger以及他的專業團隊成員:Jessica Chan和Sora Chan最近亦親身飛到勃艮第的Côte d’Or,為我們帶來了以下 的最新資訊。

WOW_Imperatrice Burgundy.indd 1

28/3/13 6:17 PM


067

The World of

Wines

Beaune We first started our visit in the city of Beaune—the centre of the wine trade in Côte de Beaune and Burgundy as a whole. It has traditionally accumulated the largest negociants’ businesses, and it is here that we met with Nicolas Potel with his ever expanding Maison & Domaine, as well as Benjamin Leroux, the “heir” of the late Henri Jayer.

Maison Roche de Bellene & Domaine de Bellene Cru have written about Nicolas Potel in their August 2012 issue when he came to Hong Kong, and it is there that curious readers can learn more about this determined producer. To summarize briefly, he is the son of the late Gerard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or and no longer makes wines from Maison Nicolas Potel; instead he has returned to the top of the Burgundy scene with his 100% biodynamic estate Domaine de Bellene, where he is gradually assembling more top vineyards, and Maison Roche de Bellene, where he produces wines from others prestigious growers from all across the region in an isolated winery. It was our first time tasting the 2012’s, which were still in the barrel, and it proved to be really interesting. The wines were still undergoing

我 們 首 先 來 到 了 C ô t e   d e   B e a u n e 葡 萄 酒 貿 易 的 中 央 —B e a u n e , 這 裡有著最大型的傳統酒業體系,在這裡我們與不斷擴展的Maison  &

Domaine莊主Nicolas  Potel、與及Henri  Jayer的繼承人Benjamin Leroux 見面。

Maison Roche de Bellene & Domaine de Bellene 《釀‧生活》在 2012 年八月刊已經介紹過 Nicolas  Potel 的故事了,唯讀 者們亦對這位傑出的生產者感到十分的興趣,在這裡讓我簡介一下,他是

Gerard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 的兒子,他已經不再在 Maison Nicolas Potel 釀酒了,現在的 Nicolas Potel 醉心 100% 生物動力 耕作法的勃艮第酒莊 Domaine  de  Bellene ,而集合更多優質葡萄田地後 更開設了另一所 Maison Roche de Bellene ,採購來自地區內其他葡萄農 的葡萄作釀酒。 這是我們首次品試 2012 的酒,它們仍然靜靜地躺在酒桶內,正在經歷著蘋 果乳酸發酵,在葡萄沉澱物之中可嘗到的緊實的蘋果酸味道正在轉化為更柔 軟的乳酸。蘋果乳酸發酵的意義在於發展一種更圓潤和豐厚的口感,可是到 了今天,仍然沒有人真正知道「 malo 」的轉化作用何時會開始。其中一個 最重要的關鍵在於酒窖的溫度,溫度越高,「 malo 」便會開始得越早。所 以我們品嘗的一些酒款仍然處於「 malo 」中的狀態,有些更完全未開始, 有些已經完成。有幸能夠品嘗這些發酵中的酒實在是太有趣了! An old vine at Domaine de Bellene Domaine de Bellene 內的老葡萄樹藤

WOW_Imperatrice Burgundy.indd 2

對於 2012酒款,最令我驚喜的是酒液的顏色非常之深,因為葡萄皮與葡萄 汁的比例回落至幾十年來的新低點,一定的集中程度令酒液的顏色變得不

28/3/13 6:17 PM


068

The World of

Wines

Sylvain Debord, Nicolas Potel’s Technical Manager & Winemaker 技術顧問暨釀酒師 Sylvain Debord

malolactic fermentation where the tart-tasting malic acid, naturally

透光。總而言之, 2012的酒款應該會是些十分特別的東西!

present in grape must, is converted to the softer-tasting lactic acid. Malolactic fermentation tends to create a rounder and fuller

我們亦品嘗了一些來自 Nuits Saint George內 Vosne Romanée Quartiers

mouthfeel and as of today, still nobody is able to know exactly

de Nuits的村莊酒(一個位於 Clos Vougeot與 Grands Échezeaux中央的小

when the chemical processes for the “malo” will start. One of

村莊田地), Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Suchots以及擁有 104歲老樹藤的

the key ingredients is the cellar temperature, as the warmer it is

Beaune 1er Cru Greves酒款!

the quicker the “malo” will start. Therefore some of the wines we tasted were still under “malo”, while others had not yet started, and

續前文,來自酒商的方面, Maison Roche de Bellene釀造出驚人的標誌酒

the remaining had completed their “malo”. It was a great learning

款— Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts、 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru以

experience to try them all!

及強勁的 Chambertin Grand Cru。我們品嘗了一杯正處於「 melo」狀態下 的 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses,雖然仍屬未完成的酒,

Now on the 2012’s, one thing that amazed me was the really black

可是已經很美味了!

colour on all the wines due to the ratio of skin vs juice being at its lowest point in decades, giving a really opaque colour to the wine and most importantly a degree of concentration which is out of the world. In short, the 2012’s will be something special! We started a tasting of some exceptional Nuits Saint Georges village wines up to the Vosne Romanée Quartiers de Nuits (a small village plot located in between Clos Vougeot and Grands Échezeaux), the Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Suchots and finally the Beaune 1er Cru Greves (which has 104 year old vines)! Continuing on the range from the negociant side, Maison Roche de Bellene, the most amazing wines came from the iconic wines of the house, the Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts, the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and the powerful Chambertin Grand Cru. We finished with a glass of Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, which was undergoing “malo” but amazing already!

WOW_Imperatrice Burgundy.indd 3

Potel in his cellars 在酒窖中的 Potel

28/3/13 6:18 PM


069

The World of

Wines

Each magnum is encased in a beautiful wooden case 每瓶大瓶裝都以精美的木盒盛載著

Domaine Benjamin Leroux Cru Magazine featured Benjamin in their most recent March 2013 issue, profiling this rising star. Although yields in 2012 have clearly been hugely reduced, his Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs Monopole & Griottes Chambertin (only available in HK market worldwide) are of such high quality that yields matter little. Also, his white wines never fail to excite. Brilliant examples are the Meursault Les Narvaux, Chassagne Montrachet Tete du Clos as well as Batard Montrachet Grand Cru! Look out next month for Part II of the series, where L’Imperatrice will bring us through Vosne-Romanée to the esteemed properties of Domaine Lamarche, Domaine Leroy, and Gros Frères et Soeurs. L’Imperatrice then visited Clos de Vougeot, where Domaine Hudelot Noellat is situated. In terroir they believe!

Domaine Benjamin Leroux 《釀‧生活》在最近的 2013 年三月刊亦介紹了 Benjamin 的酒款,以及這位 勃艮第的超新星。雖然2012的產量已經減少了許多,但他的Volnay 1er Cru

Clos de la Cave des Ducs Monopole & Griottes Chambertin(全球只有 香港獨家有售)有著絕對的高品質,產量高低問題不大。加上,他的白酒 也從不令人失望過。如有非常優秀的 Meursault Les Narvaux、Chassagne

Montrachet Tete du Clos、還有Batard Montrachet Grand Cru!

Leroux in his cellar 在酒窖中的 Leroux

密 切 留 章 下 月 的 延 續 篇 , 屆 時 母 儀 美 酒 會 為 我 們 帶 來 更 多 來 自 Vo s n e -

Romanée 的名莊如 Domaine Lamarche 和 Gros Frères et Soeurs 的資 料。他們亦同時探訪了位於 Clos  de  Vougeot 及 Chambolle-Musigny 的

Domaine Hudelot Noellat 及 Domaine Leroy ,萬勿錯過!

WOW_Imperatrice Burgundy.indd 4

Enquiry: L’Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 2850 5544 Website: www.imperatrice.com.hk

28/3/13 6:18 PM


070

The World of

Wines

I Cjamps English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

I Cjamps is a new project headed by Italian winemaker Piera Martellozzo, a native of Veneto and Friuli, who produces a wide range of products under her eponymous company, Piera Martellozzo. I Cjamps 是由來自 Veneto 和 Friuli 地區的意大利釀酒師 Piera Martellozzo 所帶領的一個 新計劃,亦是她名下的公司 Piera Martellozzo 的一個最新項目。

WOW_Apex.indd 1

28/3/13 6:19 PM


071

The World of

Wines

Last month for our cover story we covered the wines of Perle di Piera, a brightly coloured and youthful set of sparkling wines that epitomize the excitement that Piera wants to bring to the wine world. With I Cjamps, Piera once more produces Venetian wines with flair, using indigenous white grapes such as Verduzzo, Prosecco, Tai, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Bianco to make crisp wines in a variety of styles. We tried their most recent bottlings of each of these wines, with the Prosecco providing a great dry aperitif to match with food. Although Perle di Piera produces a fruitier Prosecco, the I Cjamps Prosecco is more refined and suitable for food. The Verduzzo was also interesting as it is uncommon to see this grape, local to Veneto, in Hong Kong. It was bottled in a sparkling format with a surprisingly high amount of residual sweetness, which was balanced from the good acidity and texture of the bubbles. The Pinot Grigio, Tai, and Pinot Bianco are refreshing aperitifs throughout the year, and should be a fine addition to any meal. For red varietals, they produce three wines: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. These are straightforward but delicious wines that should appeal to wine lovers around the world. They are fermented without any sign of oak, and hence carry more fruit in the body and aroma. Meant

Cjamps wines in Hong Kong

to be served young, these will be perfect in the summer—perhaps even a little chilled for a party or gathering outside.

上月在《釀‧生活》的封面故事裡我們已經介紹過代表著 Piera 對葡萄酒

In fact, the word “Cjamps” in the local Venetian dialect means “field”, and

再次以無盡的天賦創造了最新的 I  Cjamps 系列, Piera 使用了原生品種如

喜悅的代表— 色彩奪目的氣泡酒 Perle  di  Piera 系列。在新構思中 Piera

when we spoke with their visiting Export Manager Massimiliano Masi, he

Verduzzo、Prosecco、Tai、Pinot Grigio和Pinot Bianco來釀成口感清爽的

told us that, “I Cjambs is a tribute to the farmers who used to work in the

一系列酒款。我們亦有幸品嘗了其中一些最新推出的酒款,例如乾身、適合

field and drink fresh wines. So these ones don’t see barrique, and are

配襯食物的Prosecco,對比起上次介紹的Perle de Piera系列中那果味較重

fresh and fruitier.” So while it may be unusual to see un-oaked red wines,

的 Prosecco, I Cjamps的 Prosecco口感則較優雅,可以配襯更多不同口味

the experience is most definitely worth a try.

的菜式。另外一款 Verduzzo 亦相當有趣,這款來自 Veneto 的原生葡萄品種 不但在香港十分罕見,而它的氣泡之中更保留著大量的殘餘糖份,與優秀的 酸度及氣泡的質感相得益彰。 Pinot Grigio、 Tai和 Pinot Bianco則是一年四 季都適合享用,而且也適合配以不同菜餚。 紅葡萄酒方面,他們也有生產 Merlot 、 Cabernet Sauvignon 和 Cabernet

Franc。這些酒款的味道簡潔而直接了當,是世界各地飲家都會一致愛上的 美味。不經任何木桶處理,留下的是更多果味和衝擊性的香氣,換句話說這 些酒都適合年輕時便飲用,而且尤其適合在的夏季時節中,為炎熱的天氣和 帶來一點清新。 另外,原來在威尼斯的當地方言中, Cjamps 解作田野,而當我們與他們的 出口貿易經理 Massimiliano Masi談及時,他告訴我們:「 I Cjamps是對在 田野中勞動和喝新鮮酒液的葡萄農所釀製的致敬之酒,所以我們完全沒有作 任何木桶處理,以保留它的新鮮風味與果香。」所以說,不經木桶的紅葡萄 酒雖然少見,但也是絕對值得一試的。

Massimiliano Masi, Export Manager

WOW_Apex.indd 2

Apex Office 亞柏斯辦公室 Address 地址:Unit 301, 3/F, Block B, Hoi Luen Industrial Centre, 55 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, H.K. 香港九龍觀塘開源道55號開聯工業中心B座3樓301室 Tel 電話: 2311 9181 Fax 傳真: 2793 0273 Website 網頁: www.apexcellar.com.hk www.apexwines.com

28/3/13 6:19 PM


Voyage

072

The Patron of

Burgundy - 葡萄酒的守護神v Saint Vincent Tournante 勃艮第傳統聖文森節 2013 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong // Images: Nicholas Siu // Special Thanks:

Over the years, the land of Burgundy has blessed many winemakers and yielded bottle after bottle of amazing wines. And despite how they all come from the same region, each cuvée is unique. Without a doubt, every Burgundian will tell you that this is the charm of climats. 多年來,勃艮第的土地上一直孕育著一個又一個出 色的釀酒師、一瓶又一瓶的出色酒款,然而,眾多 來自同一片土地的他們又有著各自的獨特性。毫無 疑問,無論任何一個來自勃艮第的釀酒師也會告訴 你,這就是climats的迷人之處。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 1

28/3/13 6:26 PM


Voyage

073

The 1962 procession in Mercurey 1962年於Mercurey舉行的遊行

Climats is a typical Burgundian word that, when roughly translated to

Climats是一個典型的勃艮第詞語,是勃艮第人對terroir更深入的詮釋。在勃

English, refers generally to the idea of terroir, but more specifically to a single

艮第的釀酒師眼中,每一片土地無論面積多少,都會縕含著獨有的土壤特質、

parcel of land with a unique characteristic. In the eyes of the winemakers

接觸著不同的氣候,再加上人為的參與,由勃艮第兩款金牌葡萄品種—Pinot

there, the quality of each piece of land, the skill of the winemaker, and

Noir和Chardonnay完美地呈現。這就是一直瘋靡萬千酒迷背後的climats。

the weather conditions are all then reflected into two of the most sublime grapes ever: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. And Burgundy has thousands of

幾乎所有來自勃艮第的釀酒師都不會自喻為「Wine-maker」,他們不認為葡

these climats.

萄酒是單靠人力能夠做到的,只有順應天命,才可釀成真實反映地區Climats 的酒。作為大地的守護者,他們對土地的崇敬更是至高無尚。於是,每年一月

Most Burgundian winemakers don’t actually believe in the term “winemaker”. While this is obviously not true for everyone, the Burgundians do usually refer to their winemakers as vignerons, a French term for vine grower. Vignerons simply guide the wine along from their inception, obeying the land so that the wine yields a character true to the terroir. The greatest vignerons revere their vineyards and try their best to protect the land. Hence in January of each year right before the coming of spring, they worship St. Vincent, the patron saint of the winemakers of Burgundy, by “Touring Saint Vincent” or “Saint Vincent Tournante”. Who is Saint Vincent? Saint Vincent was a priest in Spain and was originally a deacon of the Church in the Roman times. The Roman Emperor at the time wanted to abolish the Church, and ordered all his citizens to adopt another religion. When Saint Vincent refused, he was tortured on January the 22nd. However, his story doesn’t end there, and one of the legends of how the Burgundians adapted

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 2

The 2013 procession in Châtillon-Sur-Seine 2013年剛過去於Châtillon-Sur-Seine的遊行場面依然浩蕩

28/3/13 6:26 PM


074

Voyage

Participants walking along the procession route, followed by the Chevaliers du Tastevin wearing the robes of St. Vincent. Each winery that “worships” St. Vincent wears a different robe design. 一路沿著遊行路線走,跟著穿紅袍的品酒騎士團,各酒莊代表抬著「各自的St. Vincent」到教堂 舉行慶典儀式。酒莊各自「供奉」的St. Vincent都有著不同形態與服飾,非常有趣。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 3

28/3/13 6:26 PM


Voyage

075

him as their patron is quite entertaining. Apparently long ago, Saint Vincent

當大地回春之時,便是他們膜拜勃艮第的葡萄酒之神Saint Vincent,慶祝一年

once stopped by a vineyard to talk with some workers there. While he

一度的聖文森節(Saint Vincent Tournante)的時候。

was busy, his donkey began to nibble at young vine shoots, inadvertently pruning the vine. During the next harvest, while the winemaker knew that

St Vincent是誰?

less wine would come from the vine, he didn’t know that the remaining

生於西班牙的 St Vincent 原是四世紀時教會的執事,當時的皇帝要求所有羅

grapes would be fruitier and sweeter. So the little donkey of Saint Vincent

馬公民都要信奉同一宗教而下令摧毀教會,在背棄信仰與死亡兩者之間,

blessed the Burgundians with an essential viticultural technique.

St Vincent選擇了犧牲自己,並在1月22日因飽受酷刑被折磨致死。可是,他 的故事並未因此而終結,St Vincent生命中的一段小插曲卻令他成為了勃艮第 流傳後世的神話。話說有一次St Vincent途經勃艮第一片葡萄園地的時候,看 著美麗的景色和正在辛勤工作的葡萄農們,更停了下來與其中一位葡萄農傾 談起來,當時他的驢子竟然在他不知不覺間將一路上的葡萄嫩芽吃掉了一大部 份,可是在隨後的收成季節,葡萄農竟發現原本以為損失的葡萄竟然比其他長 得更豐盛,果實更甜美、更多汁。於是,多得St Vincent驢子的啟發,人們從 此發現了修剪葡萄藤的重要,St Vincent亦從此流傳後世,成為勃艮第地區釀 酒師的守護神。 此後,每年的 1 月 22 日,所有勃艮第的村莊內,每家每戶都會進行祭祀 St

Vincent的儀式。當日先由兄弟會集合的民眾遊行,然後釀酒家庭中的兄弟會 成員便會作為代表,參與公社的聚餐,並會宰一頭豬作為慶祝,最後,該年負 責保管St Vincent肖像的家庭便會把肖像移交給另一個家庭,同時亦將隨後一 年保管St Vincent肖像的重任交到下一個家族的手中。 最熱鬧的慶典 隨著時光的流轉,聖文森節亦漸漸沒落,到了1930年時更只有少數家庭仍然 會進行聖文森節聚餐,其他儀式亦已被免去。於是1934年的時候當時以宣揚 勃艮第為己任的品酒騎士團(Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin)決定光 復此節日,並在1938年舉行首次光復後的聖文森節。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 4

28/3/13 6:26 PM


076

Voyage

A rare scene: many representatives of Burgundy’s best wineries assembled at the church together. The prayer is one of the most important parts of the festival, and the young and old participate in it together. 難得一見的盛大場面,所有勃艮第的酒莊代表齊集於教堂中,為一年之中最重要的聖文森節祝 禱。一家老少都參與著這個盛大的慶典。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 5

28/3/13 6:26 PM


Voyage

077

Thereafter, on the 22nd of January, every household of winemakers who was in the Brotherhood of Saint Vincent would gather for Mass, and they would gather afterwards for a communal meal where a pig had been slaughtered for the festivities. Then, whichever family had taken care of St. Vincent’s effigy the previous year would pass it on to the next caretaker family. The Most Lively Celebrations But by the 1930’s, the festival had fallen out of popularity, and all that remained of this once great celebration was the communal roast pig dinner served in some households. So in 1934, the founders of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin decided it was time to bring back the old tradition, which eventually returned in 1938.

A member of the Chevaliers du Tastevin indcuting a new member. 大會主辦組織品酒騎士團依照著歷年的傳統,在教堂儀式完結後,於公眾的見証下任命新成員。 教堂外一片喜氣洋洋。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 6

28/3/13 6:27 PM


078

Voyage

Residents of Châtillon-Sur-Seine and visitors alike gather in the festivites, many dressing up in elaborate costumes. Châtillon-Sur-Seine的居民落力粉飾的街道上,在聖文森節當天異常熱鬧,賣小吃的檔攤和表演 者都傾巢而出,為沿途遊行的酒莊們與參加者助興。

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 7

28/3/13 6:27 PM


Voyage

079

Tasting wine in the special wine glass for the sparkling wines of the Châtillon-Sur-Seine. 拿著大會特地設計的品酒杯,可以於逐個品酒檔攤中試盡所有Châtillon-Sur-Seine的氣泡酒款。

所有釀酒家族齊集 每一年品酒騎士團都會選出一個舉辦聖文森節的地方,而當年第一屆的聖文 森節便在Chambolle-Musigny舉行,今年的2013年聖文森節亦已於Châtillon-

Sur-Seine盛大舉行。 1月22日一大清早,天還未亮,來自勃艮第每一個地區的酒莊都各自抬著「自 Back in 1938, the very first session of St. Vincent Tournante was done in

家供奉」的St Vincent像沿著遊行路線一路走到教堂,沿途氣氛並不嚴肅,到

Chambolle-Musigny, and it has changed to a different village every year

了教堂內,便是難得一見的盛況—所有勃艮第的酒莊代表排排坐,由主持帶領

since. This time it will take place in Châtillon-Sur-Seine.

進行莊嚴的祈禱儀式,祈求來年「風調雨順好收成」。坐在前排穿著耀目紅袍 的品酒騎士團在教堂的儀式完畢後,更會即場進行歡迎新成員的儀式及慶祝。

Early on the 22nd of January before the sun rises, wineries from all across Burgundy will take place a grand procession, and the group will follow the

全民投入

path of St. Vincent to church. There, in a festive mood, Burgundy wine

作為勃艮第一年之中最盛大的慶典,Chatillon地區內共23條村莊全民投入為節

representatives will lead the community in a joint prayer for good harvest in

日粉飾鎮上街道每一個角落,又把家傳小食搬到街上,變身小販檔售賣特色

the coming year, and the Chevaliers du Tastevin will induct new members in

小食如法式甜薄餅、雜肉腸等,更有街上表演、跳舞、玩魔術等,將當日遊行

a lively ceremony.

的路線一路變成嘉年華般熱鬧。大會亦特地設置了一系列的品酒攤檔,宣揚每 一年主辦地區的酒款,今年的主題是Crémant de Bourgogne,自然少不了來

Everyone Joining In

自勃艮第的氣泡酒了。大會亦相當貼心,沿途售賣Tasting Kit套裝,包括印有

The wine region of Chatillon covers 23 villages so all the inhabitants of the

St Vincent Tournante 2013的品酒杯及隨身小袋,方便沿途品酒及收納單張。

villages are preparing for the decorations to make their village shine. It is a huge deal in the area and everyone is lining up the streets with stalls for

整個聖文森節持續整個週末,除了熱鬧的大街外,酒莊各自亦會舉辦不同的展

crêpes and sausages, and for street performances involving magic or dance.

覽等活動,將一年一度慶典的熱鬧氣氛延續下去,迎接即將來臨的忙碌工作,

This year the focus will be on the flagship wine of the sub-region: Crémant

亦為不遠的夏季收成而歡呼。

de Bourgogne, sparkling wine from Burgundy. It is easy to participate in this festival, and the Tasting Kit for the St. Vincent Tournante 2013 is easily available around the villages. The entire festival will continue through the weekend, and in addition to the lively atmosphere on the street, wineries will open their cellars to all the visitors in the towns. With the harvest coming up, the whole region is in celebration.

About Climats 關於Climats: www.climats-bourgogne.com About St Vincent Tournante 關於聖文森節: www.st-vincent-tournante.fr About Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin 關於品酒騎士團: www.tastevin-bourgogne.com/fr

Cru Voyage_Bugundy Travel.indd 8

28/3/13 6:27 PM


080

Cru Spirit

Box of Whims and Caprices Text: Eddie Chui // Special Thanks: Chin Chin Bar, Hyatt Regency TST

盒子裡的光影歲月

Exceling in making the finest single malt whisky, The Macallan also advocates a life style about appreciating the fine things in life. As such, they collaborated with great artists in the like of classical musicians, photographers and contemporary artists and produce exceptional editions to celebrate with all who share the same course. 2012 was the 80th Birthday of Sir Peter, The Macallan decided it is time to re-unite with the great artist since their first encounter in the 80s to produce the label for The Macallan 1926 vintage. The treasure chest thus produced, resonates with the history of the last 80 years of Sir Peter, the life of the British, and The Macallan. 單麥威士忌除了生產備受推崇的出色酒釀外,更樂意與藝術家合作,由音樂、攝影,而至當代藝術大師,合作舉辦不同 的表演節目,或推出別具意義的主題別注版,例如今年矚目的Sir Peter Blake 80週年紀念版,讓大家懷緬過去80年The

Macallan及Sir Peter Blake的故事。

Cru Spirit_Sir Peter Blake The Macallan.indd 1

3/4/13 7:39 PM


Cru Spirit

081

2

1

1/ David Cox, Director of Fine and Rare Whiskies of The Macallan 酒廠總監 2/ The Macallan team in 1923 1923年的The Macallan團隊 3/ Production in action 製作中留影 3

There are 250 sets produced worldwide and Hong Kong has the privilege

這次推出的別注版全球限量 250套,而香港也能分配到 10套,因此酒廠的

to be allocated with 10 sets of this splendid limited edition. David Cox, the

總監 David Cox親身到港,在專訪中,他穿著具懷舊風味的西裝,為我們

Director of Fine and Rare Whiskies of The Macallan came to Hong Kong to

打開這別緻的手工橡木盒,為我們細訴The Macallan及Sir Peter Blake的

reveal this memorable special edition. Arriving with his vintage-style suit,

八個年代的故事。 Sir Peter Blake 生於 1932 年,是英國著名的流行藝術

he opens up the elegant handmade oak box to tell the magnificent stories

家( Pop Artist),最為人認識的作品必然是 60年代為披頭四專輯《 Sgt.

of The Macallan and Sir Peter Blake over the past eight decades. Born in

Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band 》所設計的唱片封套,在那年代跟

1932, Sir Peter Blake is one of the greatest British pop artists, best known

David Hockney及R. B. Kitaj齊名的英國新興流行藝術家。

for his design of the sleeve of the Bealtes’ Album Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. His name is alongside with other contemporary artists

收藏著八十載的夢幻小盒子

like David Hockney and R. B. Kitaj as the representatives of British pop

驟眼一看,這個橡木盒跟一般用來存放高級單麥威士忌的木盒沒有什麼分

artists at that time.

別。但是在 David為我們打開的一剎那,卻令人驚嘆不已。原來他們把八 十年的光影流星都一一放進這小盒子裡。我們好像踏上時光機,穿越 Sir

The petit treasure chest encapsulating eight decades of dream

Peter及The Macallan的八個不同年代。Sir Peter把這手工精細的小木盒分

It is just like an ordinary oak box that are used to pack a rare or aged

成八格,每一格都注入了不同年代他的藝術或人生歷程。

single malt. But when David opens it, it comes to life full of wonders and surprises. The endearing box holds eight decades of history, works and

他跟一同設計打造這別注版的藝術總監 David Holmes把代表不同年代 Sir

life of Sir Peter and The Macallan. We are like traveling in a time machine

Peter的創作或當時具代表性的手工裝飾品放進去。 David Holmes是 The

to watch their stories in art with The Macallan distilled in each of the

Macallan最早期的廣告設計師,也曾打造2012年威廉王子大婚及英女王登

decade.

基60週年特別版的幕後主腦。加上Stuart Newman的協助搜羅各式的精品 及小工藝品,以表現每一個年代的藝術文化,也代表著 The Macallan威士

Art Director, David Holmes, managed the whole project for Sir Peter, He

忌的四大元素:水、火、空氣及土壤。在八個小格當中,每一格都放上一

made painstaking research and create à la main meaningful items and art

瓶從 1930年至 2000年代所蒸餾的 5cl迷你版 The Macallan威士忌,這組合

Cru Spirit_Sir Peter Blake The Macallan.indd 2

3/4/13 7:39 PM


082

Cru Spirit

Phil Lardner, Cabinet Maker

David Holmes, Creative Director

Stuart Newman, Art Director

Sir Peter Blake

Cru Spirit_Sir Peter Blake The Macallan.indd 3

Prof. Philip Cleaver, Graphic Designer

3/4/13 7:40 PM


Cru Spirit

083

pieces for the content designed by Sir Peter. David is the designer of the

已是十分難得的一套珍藏,而且每一瓶上面的酒標都是Sir Peter的傑作。

earliest Macallan advertising campaign, and has also led the creations of

最後還有一本關於The Macallan及Sir Peter的小本子,小小的盒子,把整

other hot collectables such as special bottlings celebrating the marriage

整八十年的光影及威士忌都放進來。

of Prince William and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Also with the aid of another art directors, Stuart Newman and cabinet maker, Phil Lardner, the

細訴八十載

team delicately constructed the artefacts and at the same time, a page

整個故事就由Sir Peter的出生年代1930開始,也是The Macallan成立不久

of the British life in the past 80 years. In the 8 compartments there is a

的年代。從黑白照片可窺見當時The Macallan的點滴。40年代酒瓶上的圖

5cl miniature of The Macallan distilled in the corresponding decade from

畫,可說是Sir Peter小時引領他對藝術產生興趣的回憶。而60年代格子中

1930’s through 2000’s,

那迷你版的 Beatles

with labels crafted by Sir

唱片封套中,更藏

Peter himself.Finally, a

著一片DVD,內含

booklet (winner of the

由 David  Holmes 及

British Book Awards

攝影師Phil Sansom

2012) illustrating The

所製作,關於這套

Macallan and Sir Peter

紀念版製作過程的

is also put inside the

片段。 70 年代的 Sir

box, wrapping up the

Peter畫作的迷利

whole collection.

版,代表了Sir Peter 成名後引領著藝術潮

Stories of the Eight

流。 80 年代是 black

Decades

and  white 的   two-

The whole story starts

tone music,那格當

with the birth of Sir

中的飛釣魚餌,正正

Peter in 30’s, marked

代表在The Macallan

by a picture of Sir

蒸餾廠所在地附近的

Peter when he was a

Spey 河流中常見的

baby. We can see the

釣魚活動。90年代

team of The Macallan

的酒桶當然是威士忌

from the mini photo in

的靈魂所在,而拼貼

that era.

In the 40’s,

的圖案也是Sir Peter

David  Cox  explains

那時常用的表現方

the label on the bottle

式。最後踏入 2000

is the painting that

年代的科技年代,他

attracts Sir Peter into

以一隻瓷裝的老鼠代

the world of art. As for

表我們日常不離手的

the 60’s, in the sleeve

滑鼠。這些關於 The

of the miniature The

Macallan及Sir Peter

Beatles’album, you can

八十年間的傳奇就全

find a DVD, produced

放於這小小的紀念版

by David Holmes and

當中。

photographer  Phil Sansom,  with  film

以5,500英鎊的代

about the making of

價,換來這樣奇幻

this special edition.

的八十年光影,感 覺到時光可以觸

The painting in the 70’s

及,非常surreal!

section is Sir Peter’s work after his pop art became the mainstream. In the 80’s section, we had the black and white label to represent the twotone music of the time and the fly fishing by the gnome, representing the fishing activities near The Macallan distillery around River Spey. The barrel

Enquiry:

in the 90’s represents the soul of whiskies and the pattern is one of Sir Peter popular design at that time. In the 2000’s, the little porcelain mouse represents the computer age using the “mouse”. I had the chance to

Tel: 2891 8086 Website: www.edrington.com.hk

get a touch and feel of this wonder, priced GBP5,500, it is truly magical!

Cru Spirit_Sir Peter Blake The Macallan.indd 4

3/4/13 7:40 PM


084

Cru Review

The Doctor of Burgundy 勃艮地的守護者

Domaine Ponsot is one of the most storied names in Morey-St-Denis, with

“I am the laziest winemaker because nature makes it better than I can,”

a history dating back to 1872 when William Ponsot, a native of southern

laughed Laurent, although it is doubtless that even such fabled wine only

Burgundy, bought land in the village after the end of the Franco-Prussian

reveals its greatness with gentle coaxing.

war. Upon his death, his cousin Hippolyte Ponsot inherited the domaine, and three generations later in 1981, the current proprietor Laurent Ponsot

Domaine Ponsot是Morey-St-Denis內的其中一所傳奇酒莊,其源遠流長的歷

began working at the winery.

史可追溯至1872年,來自勃艮第南方的William Ponsot在法普之戰後購入村莊

Laurent is widely acknowledged as a great innovator and researcher—

代便由現任莊主Laurent Ponsot接手打理。

內的田地後開始。他死後由表兄Hippolyte Ponsot繼承酒莊,1981年傳至第三

when we met him at the office of Altaya, his local distributor, last month, he spoke rapidly and definitively about his beliefs on topics such as pre-

Laurent是一位學識淵博的創新者,當我們在大亞洋酒的品酒會中與他會面時,

oxidation (he believes new oak lets in too much oxygen, so the white wines

他解釋了許多關於氧化作用(他相信新木桶會令太多氧氣進入而導致白酒不能好

can’t age well), natural winemaking (but not necessarily “biodynamic” or

好熟成)、天然釀酒法(但不一定是生物動力耕作或有機耕作法)、與及對木

“organic”), and how his unique alternative to the natural cork (a synthetic

塞的研究(一種合成的塑膠木塞,不會帶任何滲漏問題、能夠做到適度透氣)。

cork without any chance of imparting flaws on the wine, but that is also perfectly porous so the wine can age), is the future.

但總括來說,Laurent堅定的信念就是要以terroir為主導,亦是勃艮等一貫的釀酒 哲學,Laurent亦對傳統的AOC制度仍然支持,他解釋道:「這裡一小片土地便

But for all that, Laurent has a clear set of ideals that he steadily adheres

已經有著1250個不同名稱地區,而兩個不同的terroir之間是沒有任何空隙的,所

to. Focus on terroir is at the very heart (one could even say it is the

以稱它們是兩個terroir卻有點可笑,但這仍然是分隔泥土和葡萄的錯誤方法。」

religion) of Burgundy, and Laurent remains supportive over the traditional AOC system. “There are 1250 appellations in such a short surface,” he

「我們需要地區名稱。全世界有許多人能夠釀出好的Pinot Noir,但我們造的

explained. “Between two terroir, the space is nothing; it seems silly to call

是Volnay 、Griotte 和Chambertin 。」幸運的是,他擁有22 個偉大的地區名

them both different. But there are deep faults in the ground that separate

稱、12個特級田葡萄園,只消天然耕種和不用殺蟲劑,以及使用原生酵母就已

the soils and the vines.”

經可以帶出這些土地的完美一面。

“We need appellations. Around the world everyone makes great Pinot Noir,

「我是一個很懶惰的釀酒師,因為大地比我更靈巧。」Laurent笑說道。是的,

but we make Volnay, we make Griotte, and we make Chambertin.” And

毫無疑問地,這些酒只需要稍微耐心對待已經可以表現出其偉大的風土。

blessed as he is with 22 great appellations and 12 Grand Cru vineyards, only natural viticulture without herbicides and with indigenous yeasts brings out the full potential of the land.

Cru Review_Domaine Ponsot Altaya.indd 1

Enquiry:

Altaya Wines Limited Tel: 2523 1945 // Website: www.altayawines.com

28/3/13 6:23 PM


085

Cru Review

Looking Beyond Sweet Tokaj 匈牙利美酒

Wines Tasted 當日品試酒款: ‧Benedek Winery Cserszegi Füszeres 2011, Matra, Northern Hungary Highlands - Veritas Wine ‧Szepsy Tokaj Furmint Tokaj 2009, Tokaj - Wiseville Intl ‧Etyeki Kuria Pinot Noir 2010, Etyek, North Pannonia - Veritas Wine ‧Gere Attila Kopar 2007, Villany, Southern Hungary - Wiseville Intl ‧Malatinszky Kuria Cabernet Franc 2007, Villany, Southern Hungary

Hungarian wines have always had a presence in Hong Kong, albeit predominately in the form of sweet wines from Tokaj. In recent years however, more specialized importers such as Wiseville Intl and Veritas Wine

- Verita Wine ‧Tokaj Nobilis Tokaji Sargarmuskotaly 2008, Tokaj - Wiseville Intl

have brought over a great selection of other Hungarian wines here to Hong Kong, presenting us with more chances to learn about these noble wines.

‧Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2005, Tokaj - Watson’s Wine

Last month Cru Magazine took part in a Hungarian Wine Workshop at Hotel ICON that was organized by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Hungary, which

匈牙利葡萄酒在香港一向有其市場,尤其是來自Tokaj的甜酒。近幾年來,許

featured an informative tasting guided by Ms. Helga Gal, the Wine and

多專業的採購買家好像Wiseville Intl和Veritas Wine都為香港帶來了多款來自匈

Gastronomy Advisor to the Ministry.

牙利的葡萄酒,亦讓我們對這些尊貴的酒加深了不少認識。

Interestingly, our favourites were all red: Etyeki Kuria Pinot Noir 2010 (a very

上月《釀‧生活》參加了一場由匈牙利外交部於唯港薈舉行的匈牙利葡萄酒工

pure and balanced wine farmed without herbicides) and Malatinszky Kuria

作坊,由該部門的美食佳釀顧問Helga Gal作嚮導,為眾人分享她的品酒心得。

Cabernet Franc 2007 (organic, unfiltered, and rustic with great character) were delightful. And though the whites disappointed, it was our first time

非常有趣地,我們喜歡的酒款竟然全部都是紅酒: Etyeki Kuria Pinot Noir

trying the grape Cserszegi Füszeres (pronounced ‘cher-seghy fue-seresh’),

2010(一款純淨而平衡的酒,完全不加殺蟲劑耕作)和 Malatinszky Kuria

and it had a ripe and tropical nose like a Gewürztraminer (they both mean

Cabernet Franc 2007 (有機、不經過濾、質樸的味道)都相當不錯。而

“spicy”) or Torrontes.

雖然白酒在是次品酒會中稍遜,但卻是我首次品嘗由 Cserszegi Füszeres (讀音:cher-seghy fue-seresh)釀造的酒款,它有著如Gewürztraminer和

Unfortunately the palate didn’t live up to the wonderful aroma, and was

Torrontes的熱帶果實味道。

sharply acidic without the structure or fruit to balance the wine. The other white, Szepsy Winery Tokaj Furmint 2009, was possibly too reductive with

可惜的是它的味感並不如其香氣般出色,而且酸度太尖銳,沒有足夠的平衡性

strong sulfur on the nose, but was driven with a taut minerality and round

和果味作支撐。另一款白酒Szepsy Winery Tokaj Furmint 2009則太過含蓄,

vanilla warmth. It had a very long finish and we wanted to love it, but felt the

帶有一股刺鼻的硫磺味,但仍有著緊湊的礦物和雲呢拿的圓潤口感,而且有著

wine lacked definition. Perhaps age will integrate the flavours.

相當悠長的收結,可惜只欠缺味道上的主幹,或許陳年過後會表現得更好吧。

Cru Review_Hungarian Wine Workshop.indd 1

28/3/13 6:24 PM


086

Cru Review

A Family of One 隆河谷大家庭

For us, the wines of the Rhône Valley have always been about unabashed

incredible part was how each wine was so multi-faceted and that such a

pleasures—wines that excite with their brooding fruit, that seduce with

diverse side to the Valley was shown.

their ripe aromas, and that intrigue with their complexity. It is the only region in France that allows thirteen grapes to be blended together into

對我來說,來自隆河谷的葡萄酒一向給人一種毫不掩飾的美感,擁有著傾瀉

one AOC wine (Châteauneuf-du-Pape), and also the only region with some

而出的果味和成熟氣息,也帶有無可比擬的複雜性。這是法國境內唯一的產

of the most hedonistic grapes like Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier.

酒區能夠一次過混合 13款葡萄來釀酒( AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape),亦 是唯一一個同時使用Syrah、Grenache和Viognier釀製葡萄酒的地區。

And while Hong Kong wine lovers are no strangers to the various prestigious Rhône AOC’s like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, or

當香港飲家不再對來自AOC  Châteauneuf-du-Pape、Côte-

Condrieu, smaller producers always manage to slip through the cracks—

Rôtie、 Hermitage、或  Condrieu的酒感到陌生時,一些來自更小型的酒莊

there are simply too many good producers out there!

酒便顯得更加有趣。

A case in point; the Rhône Vignobles, a group of friendly neighbouring

於是一群同位於隆河谷的釀酒師便聚集起來,在 17年前已經成立了一個名

winemakers who have been working together for over 17 years to

為Rhône Vignobles的群組,更在今年2月25日來到香港的Agnès b. café Le

promote their wines, were in town on the 25th of February at Agnès

Pain Grillé一起宣傳他們的酒,當中許多都是未曾在香港出現過的酒莊。

b. café Le Pain Grillé. Many of the wineries at the tasting weren’t even represented in Hong Kong, which is a great shame considering the quality of wines on display.

每個AOC地區都總有一些傑出的酒款代表,就好像我們喜愛的:Domaine de

Beaurenard Bosirenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009(共混釀了13款葡萄的 「魔鬼之酒」—於屈臣氏酒窖有售)、Domaine Delubac L’Authentique 2007

Every AOC had great examples with our favourite reds being: Domaine

(使用50% Syrah和50% Grenache釀製的生物動力耕作法酒款)、Domaine

de Beaurenard Bosirenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 (majestic, with all

de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Village ‘Terre d’Argile’ 2011(使用同樣比例的

13 varieties in the blend—available in Watson’s Wine), Domaine Delubac

Syrah、 Grenache、 Mouvedre和 Carignan釀製—於 Fico Intl.有售)、與及

L’Authentique 2007 (50% Syrah, 50% Grenache—biodynamic), Domaine

Domaine Jean Michel Gerin Saint Joseph 2011(100% Syrah釀製)白酒

de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Village ‘Terre d’Argile’ 2011 (1/4th Syrah,

方面,我們喜歡Domaine Jean Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Vialliere 2010與

Grenache, Mouvedre, Carignan—available from Fico Intl.), and Domaine

及Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2011兩款。最令

Jean Michel Gerin Saint Joseph 2011 (100% Syrah). As for whites, we

人驚歎的是,一個隆河谷竟然縕藏著那麼多不同的風格特色。

loved Domaine Jean Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Vialliere 2010, and Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2011. The most

Cru Review_Rhones Vignobles Vinoasia.indd 1

More Information:

www.rhonevignobles.com

28/3/13 6:26 PM


087

Cru Review

Forrest Estate Winery Partners with Kerry Wines Limited

New Zealand pioneer and winemaker John Forrest of Forrest Estate

來自Forrest Estate Winery的新西蘭釀酒先驅John Forrest上月為了其最

Winery was in town last month to herald his new partnership with Kerry

新的合作伙伴Kerry Wines Limited特地來到香港,與香港的酒界傳媒朋友

Wines Limited over lunch with members of Hong Kong’s wine media at

一起在 GOLD by Harlan Goldstein一起進午膳。在一連串的特備配酒菜餚

the consistently impressive GOLD by Harlan Goldstein. Over a specially

下,《釀‧生活》跟 John 談到了他擁有的多個葡萄園,例如他在最初是如

designed pairing menu that featured some superb combinations, Cru

何在Hawke’s Bay的一片荒地上建立現在這片擁有80% Merlot、Cabernet

spoke to John regarding the fascinating history of his many vineyards, such

Sauvignon 和 Syrah 的優秀葡萄園,現在已經比當初買入時價值 20-30 倍

as how when he first settled into the now prestigious Hawke’s Bay where

升的一片土地。作為愛冒險的一員, John 亦說到他與其他品種如 Grüner

80% of New Zealand’s Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah are now

Veltliner(來自奧地利,在新西蘭較罕有)的種植心得。

grown, the land was empty—mere wasteland that is now easily worth 2030 times what he bought it for. An adventurous soul, John also spoke of

我們在一系列John Forrest酒款之中最喜愛的是Waitaki Pinot Noir 2009,

his experimentations with other grape varietals such as Grüner Veltliner, a

它有著如櫻桃和礦物般的成熟氣息,與及平衡的酸度和其悠長的收結。而

grape native to Austria, and very uncommon in New Zealand.

最令我們驚喜的卻是其 2011 Estate Botrytis Riesling 的完美平衡—帶蜜 糖和柑橘香,味道集中,在年輕時飲用已經相當出色。

Our favourite wine of his was John Forrest Collection Waitaki Pinot Noir 2009, which was rippling with supple cherry and mineral notes, and balanced with a lacy acidity and a long finish. But it was his 2011 Estate Botrytis Riesling that surprised us all with its balance—honeyed and citrusy,

Enquiry: Kerry Wines Limited Tel: 2169-7700 // Website: www.kerrywines.com

it was well integrated and very approachable despite its youth.

Cru Review_Forrest.indd 1

28/3/13 6:26 PM


The

CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. In this issue we will introduce an exclusive timepiece from Dutch artisans Grönefeld, a new compact and energy-efficient but masculine Range Rover series called the Range Rover Evoque, and the eternally elegant five-star Peninsula Hotel.

作為國際級的時尚之都,瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The Cru Lifestyle這裡,我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、 時尚 玩物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。今期將為大家介紹來自荷蘭的獨立製錶品牌

Grönefeld以及比傳統Range Rover更小巧節能,但仍保留了越野味道和豪華設備 的Range Rover Evoque。又會帶大家去到著名五星半島酒店,看看這座歷久不衰 的香港地標。

Lifestyle_opening_028.indd 1

28/3/13 6:27 PM


Dining Life

2

089

4

1

6

5

3

米的無限潜力 The Unlimited Potential of Rice

Chinese Text & Images: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong

Since the creation of the sake trade and the advent of professional winemakers “Toji” in the Edo Period, sake, as the national spirit of Japan, has undergone constant evolution. The making of sake has changed from a traditional art to a skill that incorporates high technology. In the realm of contemporary wine, we can say that sake expresses the potential of “rice” to the extreme. 從江戶時代的清酒貿易與釀酒專業職人「杜氏」的出現,作為日本的國酒,清酒一直以來不斷發展變化,由傳統工藝發展到 現在配合高科技釀造技術,清酒在今日的酒壇上可謂將「米」的潛力發揮到極致。

1

Dassai “50 Centrifugal Separator” Junmai Daiginjo 獺祭 五割 純米大吟釀

Dining_Sake Pairing Langham.indd 1

2

Tedorigawa Yoshida Gura Junmai Daiginjo 吉田藏 純米大吟釀

3

Masumi“Sanka” Junmai Daiginjo 山花 純米大吟釀

4

Sohomare Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo 惣譽 純米大吟釀

5

Rihaku Junmai Daiginjo 李白 純米大吟釀

6

Dewa-zakura Aiyama Junmai Daiginjo 出羽櫻 愛山 純米大吟釀

28/3/13 6:29 PM


Dining Life

090

The winery owner of Rihaku Mr. Tanaka loves pairing sake and food 喜歡研究清酒與食物配襯的李白酒造社長田中裕一郎先生

為了使清酒釀造更系統化, 1992 年日本政府立法制定了以釀造法作為分類 I’ve never though of the Rihaku Junmai Daiginjo can pair with fried dishes so well

的清酒特定名稱,從此便有了我們常常會看到的大吟釀、吟釀、本釀造等名

想不到李白純米大吟釀的酒香配以炸物是如此出色

字,當中精米步合最少要達到50%而且不添加任何釀造酒精的純米大吟釀更 成為清酒酒饕們愛不惜手的杯中物。但是,若果以為所有純米大吟釀都是一

In 1992, to systemize the brewing of sake, the Japanese Government

式一樣,那便大錯特錯了!清酒釀造之中所用的原料米、水源和水的種類、

established specific legal definitions for different types of sake according

每一間不同的酒廠、甚至每一個杜氏手中都會釀出不同的清酒,不同的精米

to the way they are made. Since then, we have names like Daiginjo, Ginjo,

度、溫度、濕度、酵母和發酵方法等也可能改變某些細微的部份,所釀造的

Honjozo etc. Junmai Daiginjo, which is made with a milling rate of at least

味道也會有所不同。所以說,清酒不同葡萄酒、它雖然沒有田地和年份之

50% and does not contain any additional brewing alcohol, is the all time

分,可是它所呈現的卻是每一間酒廠帶出的獨特風味。

favorite of wine lovers. However, it would be a big mistake if you think that all Junmai Daiginjo are the same! The ingredient rice, the source and type

純米大吟釀的味道一般會帶有豐富的米香、而且米粒中純淨的澱粉甘甜也會

of water used in the brewing of sake, the brewing factory and even the

因其精米度低而赤裸裸地呈現出清香無比的稻米氣息,不同酒廠的清酒也因

individual winemaker would make the sake different. Various milling rates,

為釀造風格各異而可以配上不同美食。主打日本正宗爐端燒的Tokoro便推出

temperatures, the humidity, yeasts and fermentation methods may induce

了純以純米大吟釀為主的清酒盛宴餐單,帶來六款精彩絕倫的名酒廠出品,

certain minute changes so that the taste of each sake would not be the

以各有風味的純米大吟釀分別配上前菜、刺身、壽司、爐端燒和炸物等。

same. Therefore we say that sake is different from wine. Although there is no classification based on the area and year of production, sake exhibits the

在最新的清酒釀造技術之中,其中一種將米的潛在味道發揮得最出色的就是

unique style of its factory.

獺祭的「遠心分離技術」,以遠心分離機將清酒和酒粕以每秒高速旋轉三千 次的無重力狀態下抽離,在沒有壓榨的情況下將酒液與酒渣分離,保留最原

Junmai Daiginjo contains the wholesome fragrance of rice, and the

始純淨的米香。Tokoro的清酒盛宴餐單中配以前菜—春荀麵醬魷魚‧北海

sweetness of pure starch in the rice would present nakedly the unbeatably

道原隻海膽‧鮑魚龍蝦禮物盒—的便是獺祭五割遠心分離純米大吟釀與及手

clean smell of rice due to its low rice-polishing ratio. Sake from different

取川吉田藏純米大吟釀,其清澈薄透和優雅的米香入口圓潤而豐厚,卻又不

factories would be paired with different gourmet according to their brewing

失清爽甘甜,配上鮮味的海膽和以蘿蔔做成的「禮物盒」都能令它「既清且

character. Tokoro, which mainly targets real Robatayaki, has produced a

濃」的米香更加突出。

banquet menu centered upon its Junmai Daiginjo. The menu puts together six marvelous products, each type of Junmai Daiginjo is matched separately

另外一種備受追捧的釀酒技術,就是以生酛(生酒母)作為發酵原料。其實

with appetizer, Sashimi, Sushi, Robatayaki and Agemono etc.

嚴格來說生酛並不是新鮮事,原來傳統上釀造清酒所用的都是生酛,後來才

Among the latest sake brewing techniques, the one that expresses the taste

研發出一種速釀酛和添加乳酸菌令程序需時縮短,以加快清酒的生產。但由

of rice most brilliantly, is Dassai’s “Centrifugal Separator”. Sake and lees

於生酛的製作需要讓酒造中的乳酸菌與空氣接觸才能夠產生酸性,所以時間

are separated by a centrifugal extractor that spins the weightless state at

較長,可是由環境而生的酵母亦因而帶有與別不同的典雅米香和特有的酵母

three thousand rounds per second. Liquid sake is then span off from the

微酸味感。生酛式惣譽純米大吟釀配以爐端燒菜式—櫻花葉香窩盛燒物—

solid waste without squeezing, and the purest fragrance of rice is preserved.

以櫻花葉與窩中的熱石所散放的花香與燒鱈場蟹的酸汁互相交融,將生酛獨

Tokoro’s sake banquet menu pairs the appetizer—Miso Paste Squid with

特的淡淡酵母酸交織出豐富而細緻的味道。

Dining_Sake Pairing Langham.indd 2

28/3/13 6:29 PM


Dining Life

091

The Vice President of Asahi sake brewery Mr. Sakura is explaining the concept of “Centrifugal Separator 旭酒造副社長櫻井一宏先生正在講解遠心分離技術

Spring Bamboo Shoots; Whole Hokkaido Sea Urchin and Abalone Lobster gift basket—with Dassai “50 Centrifugal Separator” Junmai Daiginjo and Tedorigawa Yoshida Gura Junmai Daiginjo. The clear, transparent and

Thin-sliced flounder Sashimi with fresh and dried cod roe, seaweed, special sake sauce pairing with Masumi“Sanka”Junmai Daiginjo 生貯藏的真澄山花純米大吟釀配以薄切比目魚伴鮮明太子及乾明太子、昆布、清酒汁

elegant fragrance of rice tastes smooth and rich while remaining crisp and sweet. The fragrance of rice stands out particularly when the sake is taken

Apart from the two described above, Tokoro matches Masumi “Sanka”

with Fresh Sea Urchin and the “gift basket” made of turnip.

Junmai Daiginjo with various types of Sashimi, mixing the rich fruity flavor of sake with Alaska pollack eggs and the umami from kelp. Dewa-Zakura

Another renowned brewing technique is to use wild yeast as raw material

“Aiyama” Junmai Daiginjo, with a harmonic and balanced fragrance of rice,

for fermentation. Strictly speaking, there is nothing new using wild yeast

is matched with cherry blossom sushi. The sweet and smooth Rihaku

because traditionally sake is brewed with wild yeast, and the process

Junmai Daiginjo could enhance the flavor of fried Kumamoto oyster, soya

for speeding up brewing using quick brew yeast and lactobacillus was

bean and small fish.

developed later. However, since the brewing process involving wild yeast requires exposing lactobacillus in the air to produce a sour taste, it takes a longer time. Naturally occurring wild yeast also carries a uniquely elegant rice fragrance and a mildly sour yeast taste. Sohomare Kimato Junmai Daiginjo, paired with Robatayaki—cherry favored yakimono—Fried Crab with Sour Paste with the flowal smell of cherry leaves released by heat emitted from hot stones in the pot, creates the rich yet delicate taste blended with mild natural yeast acid.

除了以上兩款外,Tokoro又以生貯藏真澄山花純米大吟釀配以各式刺身,以 真澄酒造的豐富果香配搭明太子和昆布所帶出的鮮味;口感和諧而富平衡米 香與酸度的出羽櫻幻級釀酒米愛山純米大吟釀配以櫻花散壽司;又以李白純 米大吟釀的香甜與芳醇酒香配以炸物—吉列熊本蠔、枝豆粒目光魚等,帶出 食材之鮮味,而同時平衡油份與果香的甘甜。

Enquiry: Tokoro Robatayaki & Whisky Bar - The Joy of Sake dinner pairing menu 春之頌清酒盛宴 Address: Level 3, Langham Place, Mongkok,

555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, Kowloon

Tele:

3552 3388

Website: hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com

Dining_Sake Pairing Langham.indd 3

28/3/13 6:29 PM


Watch Life

092

Pursuit Execellence 出類拔萃

of

Chinese Text: LY // Translation: Eddie Chui // Images: Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces

In the past 10 years, we see numerous independent wristwatch producers coming to the market, highlighting with glorious one like the Greubel Forsey, Urwerk, MB&F and Christophe Claret, etc. Some other might just be around for a while only. And Grönefeld is one of my favourite new boutique brands crafted by a brotherhood of watchmakers from Netherland. 在過去的短短十年間,有不少獨立製錶品牌湧現,有些實力非凡,一舉成名,例如Greubel Forsey 、Urwerk 、MB&F 和Christophe

Claret 等;但有些卻曇花一現,一轉眼便不知往哪裡跑了。在這個卧虎藏龍的獨立製錶世界裡,我特別欣賞由一對荷蘭製錶匠兄弟以 自己姓氏所創立的小品牌Grönefeld 。

Watch Life.indd 1

28/3/13 6:30 PM


Watch Life

093

Grönefeld released their first wristwatch GTM-06 Tourbillon Minute Repeater in 2008, integrating both the complications of tourbillon and minute repeater at the same time. In 2010, they released their second wristwatch, the One Hertz, using the proprietary movement G-02 Calibre developed by themselves, and featuring a stunning independent dead seconds complication. The first series named as Classic includes the One Hertz 1912, One Hertz Dune, One Hertz Ruthenium, One Hertz Titanium and One Hertz Platinum.

Grönefeld 在 2008 年發表了他們的第一枚腕錶 GTM-06 Tourbillon Minute

Last year they released the Contemporary series, including One

Repeater,集陀飛輪和三問兩大複雜製錶技術於一身。到2010年,他們又發

Hertz Fire and One Hertz Ice. They will have a new model called

表了第二枚作品One Hertz,採用自行研發的G-02 Calibre機芯,備獨特的

One Hertz Techniek in the Basel exhibition.

跳秒功能,第一批型號被命名為Classic系列,包括One Hertz 1912、One

Hertz Dune、One Hertz Ruthenium、One Hertz Titanium和One Hertz One Hertz Techniek use a open work dial design which show the

Platinum 。去年他們進一步發表了 Contemporary 系列,型號包括 One

movement and mechanics comparing to the closed design of the

Hertz Fire和One Hertz Ice。在今年的巴塞爾鐘錶展中,他們將推出另一

previous series. The case is 43mm crafted with grade 5 polished

款腕錶One Hertz Techniek。

and brushed titanium; while the model One Hertz Techniek Nocturne comes with black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) finishing. The G-02

One Hertz Techniek的設計跟以往的數款 One Hertz有所不同,採用 Open-

Calibre movement comes with 2 barrels, one for going gear train

work Dial錶盤設計,能欣賞到隱藏在錶盤下機芯的一面。錶殼直徑43mm,

and one for the independent dead seconds mechanism, total of

以 Grade 5鈦金屬製造,以基本拋光打磨處理的是 One Hertz Techniek,

72 hours of power reserve. The clean and stylish dial comes with

而以黑色DLC(Diamond Like Carbon)塗層處理的是One Hertz Techniek

a large independent dead seconds at 7 o’clock; hour and minutes

Nocturne。機芯當然是採用一貫的自家製G-02 Calibre,備兩個發條鼓,一

at 2 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 11 o’clock. Winding-

個給走時提供動力,另一個專為跳秒的力量而設,動力儲存 72小時。錶盤

Setting Indicator is at 3 o’clock, instead of pulling crown, it utilizes

設計也是簡潔漂亮,7時位置設有特大的獨立跳秒秒盤,2時位置的是時分顯

push to set or wind function.

示,11時位置的是動力儲存顯示,而3時位置的,則是上鍊(W)和調校時 間(S)機制的顯示,這個跟一般的錶冠設計不同,不是把錶冠拉出,而是

Dead seconds mechanism was introduced as early as 17th century

按下,當按下W時,扭動錶冠便能上鍊,而按下(S)時則可以調校時間。

in pocket watches for higher timing accuracy. With the introduction of Quartz movement, dead seconds mechanism become less

跳秒早於17世紀時的座鐘和懷錶上已經出現,其實是屬於複雜功能的一種,

popular among watch collectors as they are sharing the same

比一般機械機芯的掃秒走時更準確,可是,因為石英機芯的出現,一些收藏

theory. Now wristwatch with dead seconds complication slowly gain

家認為跳秒跟石英機芯太相似,未能顯示出那份矜貴,所以有一段時間跳秒

popularity among collectors again with complex craftsmanship.

功能好像消失了,但現在跳秒機械腕錶又再次為收藏家所接受和欣賞。

Grönefeld released the One Hertz Fire last year which became my

Grönefeld在去年推出的One Hertz Fire,本來是我的心頭好,但現在我移

favourite, but with the introduction of One Hertz Techniek Nocturne,

情別戀了,因為我更喜歡One Hertz Techniek Nocturne,又或者兩款都

I may want to have both instead of one in my collection.

買,也不錯吧。

Watch Life.indd 2

28/3/13 6:30 PM


Car Life

094

Range Rover Evoque

Pure Blood 純種 Chinese Text: LY // Translation: Eddie Chui // Images: Alvin Luk

Car_Life.indd 1

28/3/13 6:28 PM


Car Life

095

Inspired by the concept car LRX, it is lighter, smaller than any traditional Range Rover, but retains the adventurous style and luxury of the brand. Avant-garde Design The new Range Rover Evoque follows the design of the concept car LRX in size, exterior, cabin design, etc. The streamlined shape, side wings, rooftop, and windows are groundbreaking and avant-grade. Advanced technology The Range Rover Evoque is equipped with the patented Land Rover Terrain Response system featuring different driving mode including General Driving, Grass/Gravel/Snow modes, Mud and Ruts mode and

設計靈感源自概念車 LRX,比傳統 Range Rover更小巧,更節能,但仍保

Sand mode, etc. It will just adapt to the road condition that you choose.

留了品牌的越野味道和豪華設備。

It also features Electric Power-Assisted Steering, EPAS system, for more stable and accurate steering in every corner. It also adjusts the steering

創新外型

assistance according to speed, so that you have more sensitive turning on

全新的 Range Rover Evoque,保留了LRX概念車的體積、外型、車廂設

lower speed and a more stable wheel when cruising.

計、物料應用等多方面的特點,在外型設計上可說是大膽創新,無論腰 線、側翼、車頂和車窗設計,都充份突顯了 Evoque的破格和前衛。

先進科技

Range Rover Evoque配備了專利的 Land Rover Terrain Response地形反 應系統,備有「一般駕駛( General Driving )」、「草地/碎石地/雪地 ( Grass / Gravel / Snow)」、「泥濘與林蔭( Mud and Ruts)」、「沙 地( Sand)」等反應模式,無論在任何環境下,都都操控自如。 Evoque 也內置車速動力感應轉向輔助系統( Electric Power-Assisted Steering,

EPAS),令出入彎角時轉向更精確和穩定。系統也會根據車速調校轉向 輔助,確保在慢駛時反應靈巧敏銳,高速巡航時車身更穩定。

Car_Life.indd 2

28/3/13 6:29 PM


Car Life

096

Light body This small sized Range Rover Evoque is just 4,355mm long and 1,635mm high, built with light weight materials driven by a 2.0L Si4 Turbo aluminum alloy Engine. Output tops at 240hp and 340Nm, accompanying a 6-speed gearbox and a 4-wheel drive system to give anyone a pleasant driving experience. Luxurious Cabin The seats and dash board are covered with leather, while the panels and ventilations are decorated metallic. The high end audio system from Meridian with a 380W output is employed together with a 8” touchscreen and 11 speakers, providing the ultimate audio visual experience. 輕巧車身

12 colour options are provided for the body with 3 interior themes for the

Range Rover Evoque車長 4,355mm,高度為 1,635mm,體積小巧,並大

Range Rover Evoque. You will also have 8 options for the alloyed wheel

量採用輕量化材料製成,搭載鋁合金 2.0 公升 Si4渦輪增壓引擎,加上經改

ranging from 18” to 20” to fit your taste and style.

良的排氣管設計,大幅減低耗油量及二氧化碳排放量達 20%。

性能表現

Range Rover Evoque的 2.0公升 Si4四汽缸渦輪增壓引擎,輸出 240匹馬力 及 340Nm扭力,加上六前速自動波箱及四輪驅動系統,讓駕駛者能享受 無限的操控樂趣。

豪華車廂 車廂的座椅及中控台板面由真皮製造,儀表板及通風控制系統等則採用金 屬飾面,充滿氣派。此外,車內也安裝了英國高級音響品牌 Meridian的設 備,包括 380W輸出的音響系統、 8吋輕觸式屏幕, 11支喇叭,讓駕駛者 及乘客能享受優質的視聽娛樂。

Range Rover Evoque提供多款顏色選擇,包括12種車身色調和3種車廂顏 色,還有 8款 18吋至 20吋不等的合金輪圈,相信必能選到你的心頭好。

Car_Life.indd 3

28/3/13 6:29 PM


097_IWCB.indd 1

28/3/13 5:41 AM


Hotel Life

098

半島酒店

The Peninsula Chinese Text: Synchro // Translation: Eddie Chui

z The Peninsula is still the most famous “Grand Dame” of Hong Kong hotels, despite more recent luxury openings. The building itself is an iconic landmark – history cannot be replaced. 儘管近年香港開了很多豪華酒店,但半島酒店也許仍是最有名的酒店。它的建築物也是香港的地標,歷史到底是不可取代的。

It is interesting that while The Peninsula is to celebrate its 85th anniversary later this year, it is actually a new hotel so to speak. The hotel is undergoing a complete overhaul and rooms are to be converted to the highest degree of high-tech luxury behind familiar facades. It is true that The Peninsula always had the edge of technology but the renovation takes it to the state of the art. You can for example change all the room control display to another language with a single touch on the main panel, which looks like an iPad (is it an iPad?) while switches are now like hanging iPhones, on which all controls such as room temperature, blinds, and lighting can be manipulated at bedside. The newly decorated rooms are very comfortable, being homelike and elegant on both the historical and the new wings. Attention is paid to all details of furnishing at high costs to the highest level. The 85-year-old hotel is now actually the most technologically advanced

有趣的是,今年是半島酒店開幕的85 週年,可是半島卻可說是一間新酒店。

of all Peninsulas.

原來酒店正在進行客房的全面大裝修,古老的外牆後面是最高科技的客室。 要說的是,以前半島的客房也是高科技的,可是現在更進一步,以前房間的

In Hong Kong the name Peninsula is equivalent to ultimate luxury. Not

Hotel Life_The Peninsula.indd 1

電子控制版是中英文的,現在則可以僅僅按一個控制,便可變換文字,而且

28/3/13 6:31 PM


Hotel Life

099

only its fleet of cars is all Rolls-Royce Extended, the hotel actually

控制版和電子開關都變成像iPhone和iPad。當然,坐在床上你就可以控制溫

has the only heliport for airport transfers. All the 300 guest rooms are

度、窗簾、和燈光。客房是新潮簡約的清雅,非常舒適。客房分處前面的歷

equipped not only with fax and copier facilities but also with VOIP

史樓層和後面新翼的高層,新裝潢有很多不惜工本的細節,例如焗漆的傢俱

telephone equipment that long distance calls are free of charge while

配真皮的拉手。新裝修力求做到最好。85 年的老店因為客房剛做了不遺餘力

some competitors even charge for internet.

的裝修,反而成了半島集團裡最新潮的一間。

Even if you have not yet stayed at The Peninsula you might have already

在香港,半島與豪華劃上等號,它的客車通通為勞斯萊斯,它還有一個獨有

queued for a table for its famous afternoon high tea at the Lobby..

的直升機坪,因為坐在RR 上也會堵車。300 間客房設備齊全,包括有三合一

Staying at the hotel, I have enjoyed the new experience of taking

電腦電傳打印機,和獨有的VOIP 免費長途電話。可以這樣說,沒有任何一間

breakfast there. Other choices for breakfast include the Verandah

酒店完全具備這一切設施。

buffet, poolside and of course room service. I had delivery of three newspapers every day, and there is of course the good shoeshine

即使你沒有住過酒店,相信也在大堂喫過它的下午茶,只有這裡每天下午入

service….yes, these are all minor details of service but I can’t think

座都要排對等候。我住在這裡可以在大堂享受早餐,真是新的經驗。連選用

of any other hotel that offers all these. I think true luxury must be

早餐都可另選樓上的自助、泳池旁、和客房送餐。每天派報紙有三份,有擦

made up with attention to details such as these. It is good that Hong

鞋服務…是的,這些也許都是小節,可是我想沒有任何酒店能提供這所有的

Kong’s most famous hotel operates in the most efficient and innovative

小節。最高的奢華體驗,其實就是由許多小節構成的。可喜的是在85 年歷史

manner behind its 85-year history.

的後面,酒店的經營是最高效率,最現代化的!

Hotel Life_The Peninsula.indd 2

28/3/13 6:31 PM


Art Life

100

1

6

2

7 3

10

4

8

11

5 1/ “Drinking Game – East” Ink on Paper 2013 《五嶽行吟之一,東》水墨紙本,2013 2/ “Cheers with the nature – South” Ink on Paper 2013 《五嶽行吟之一,南》水墨紙本,2013

12

3/ “Cheers with the nature – West” Ink on Paper 2013 《五嶽行吟之一,西》水墨紙本,2013

10-11/ “March 71” theme song for exhibition. Music by Hui Cheung Wai, Lyrics by Mini. 《七一遊》展覽主題曲,許翔威作曲,夏至作詞

4/ “Cheers with the nature – North” Ink on Paper 2013 《五嶽行吟之一,北》水墨紙本,2013 5/ “Cheers with the nature – Middle” Ink on Paper 2013 《五嶽行吟之一,中》水墨紙本,2013

Art Life_Haji-1.indd 1

9 6-9/ “Teapot Series” Ink on Paper 2013《頌一隻茶壺》水墨紙本

12/ “March 71” recording session. Special thanks Edmond Tsang! 《七一遊》錄音,特別鳴謝曾奕文

28/3/13 6:32 PM


Art Life

101

13/ “Stone Series” Painting on the wooden cover and Ink on Paper 2013 《石頭記》水墨木面與紙本 14/ “Mountain Range” Ink and color on paper, 1980

13

A

《疊嶂》 水墨設色紙本, 1980

14

rt and Culture at HAJI

文化與藝術在HAJI Text: Mini 夏至 Images: michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team Hair ( Mini ): Pius Yiu, Jim Ho, Sonn Lam @ Orient4.com.hk

A heritage masterpiece by Doctor Kan Tai-keung was exhibited at

靳埭強博士《七一遊》展覽中,靳叔把經典珍藏作品公開,這張作品早在

HAJI Gallery. This “Mountain Range” was Uncle Kan’s early work,

1980年時創作,同期同系列作品,香港藝術館收藏了一張,香港賽馬會收藏

paintings from the same series have since then been collected by

了一張,這張《疊嶂》是靳叔的價值連城的私人珍藏。靳叔說呂壽琨老師給他

the Hong Kong Museum of Art and the Hong Kong Jockey Club. Lu

三步曲,一是向古人學習,二是向大自然學習,三是向自己的心學習,在是次

Shoukun, Kan Tai-keung’s teacher, gave Kan three pieces of advice:

展覽中,可以說是集三步曲的大成。

to learn from the ancestors, to learn from nature, and to learn from yourself; this exhibition is like a summary of the rules of art.

其中五嶽行吟系列之東南西北中,是靳叔在去年一個關於美酒與佳餚的節日 內,設計五支大酒瓶的公共藝術。作品概念來自靳叔收藏的物件之中,有一種

Inspired by Kan’s own works at the wine and food festival last

叫行酒令,是酒席上的助興遊戲,每擲至不同方位的時候,就要邊飲酒,邊吟

year, which he created five labels for the bottles of wine, he

詩作對,配合靳叔的字體和山水畫,酒與藝術,五嶽行吟。

painted the “Cheers of the Nature” Series with the mountain East, South, West and North. To recite a poem when playing a traditional drinking game is the inspiration behind these beautiful Chinese calligraphy landscape paintings. And let us not forget that wine itself can be art !

Art Life_Haji-1.indd 2

HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011

28/3/13 6:32 PM


Cru Suppliers A

www.citysuper.com.hk

www.apexwines.com www.corneyandbarrow.com www.adegaroyale.com

www.cottagevineyards.com www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hk

Sen Futsushu

www.altayawines.com

D

Ingredients: water, rice, rice koji Alcohol: 14.5%

www.cuvees.com

www.winedanstep.com

www.amorossowines.com

Sake Meter: +3 (dry) Milling rate: 75% www.doublewinitl.com

Made  with  Japanese-produce

www.anriseimc.com

short grain rice and mild, soft water. Sen sake is a perfect match for

E

Japanese cuisine as well as other www.asc-wines.com

Asian, vegetarian, poultry and fish

www.dynasty-wines.com C/0 M/100 Y/60 K/40

PANTONE 1955C

dishes.Can  be  enjoyed  chilled

www.eccevino.com.hk

(10-15°C), room temperature, or warmed (30-50°C).

www.asiaeurowine.com/ www.edringtongroup.com

B

www.emtex.com.hk www.bacchusfinewines.asia

Nikko Ichimonji Daiginjo

www.bbr.com

G

www.enoteca.com.hk

www.gcccellar.com

Ingredients: water, rice, rice koji

www.benson.com.hk

Alcohol: 14.5% Sake Meter: +3 (dry) Milling rate: 75%

www.gdv.com.hk

www.bluetreewine.com

Made  with  Japanese-produce www.gwcellar.com

short grain rice and mild, soft water. Sen sake is a perfect match for Japanese cuisine as well as other

C

www.boutiquewines.com.hk

Asian, vegetarian, poultry and fish dishes. Can be enjoyed chilled (10-15°C),room  temperature,or

www.caudaliewine.com

H

warmed (30-50°C).

www.goldengatewine.com

www.winevault.com.hk

www.cave-de-paris.com

www.champagne-asia.com

Tai Fung Cheung Wine Shop

I J

www.imperatrice.com.hk

Tel: 2560 5182 www.cellarmasterwines.com

Supplier Page.indd 1

www.jebsenfinewines.com

28/3/13 7:03 PM


S www.jointekfinewines.com.hk

www.senswinecellar.com

K

www.sd-germanwines.com www.kingswaywines.com

L

www.simshk.com

www.kedwines.com

www.limestonewines.com.hk

www.sinolinkfw.com

www.linksconcept.com.hk www.sinovantagewines.com www.liquidassets.com.hk/

www.smartwine.com.hk

M

www.kkh.biz

www.solera.com.hk www.mhiwines.com.hk www.sopexa.com.hk www.majorcellar.com www.summergate.com www.maxfordwines.com

T

www.sybachina.com

www.maxscene-wineshop.com www.telford.com.hk

www.meritwine.com.hk

V

State-of-the-Art Wine Cellars

www.transtherm.hk

www.mhdhk.com www.vinsgallery.com

P

R

www.montrose.com.hk

W

www.crvanguard.com.hk

www.pernod-ricard.com

www.watsonswine.com

www.pontiwinecellars.com.hk

www.winespot.com.hk

www.rarenfinewines.com.hk

www.winepro.org

www.redwinevillage.com www.winehut.com

Supplier Page.indd 2

28/3/13 7:03 PM


Zeitgeist [tsīt-ˌgīst, ˈzīt-], the general intellectual, moral, and cultural climate of an era. Loft [ˈlȯft], an upper room or floor. When combined, it became an intellectual and innovative wine boutique, specializing in the finest and rare California cult wines. Our philosophy is to share our passion with the most unique experiences to the people who love wine.

Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場

JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯士甸道西1號

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A

Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號

Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號

Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號

Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號

The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道

Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號

Regal Kowloon Hotel 71 Mody Road, TST, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道71號 Conrad Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, HK 金鐘皇后大道88號太古廣場 Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 1 Castle Peak Road, Gold Coast, HK 香港青山道1號 Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong (CRC) 123 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 大坑銅鑼灣道123號 Kowloon Cricket Club 10 Cox’s Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 覺士道10號九龍木球會 Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kellett Island, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣奇力島 The American Club 48-49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, HK 中環交易廣場第二座48-49樓 The China Club 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Central, HK 中環德輔道中2A中國銀行大廈13樓-14樓 The Hong Kong Golf Club 19 Island Road, Deep Water Bay, HK 深水灣香島道19號

Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖

The News Room is an all-day dining concept serving contemporary comfort food in a stylish, relaxed setting. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and weekend brunch, The News Room also features a bar with selfservice wine dispensers, allowing guests to try a variety of international wines to complement their dining experience. Address: 33 Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: 2562 3444 Website: www.thenewsroom.hk

Distribution Page-#028-1.indd 1

28/3/13 6:31 PM


Occupying a prime position in Central’s iconic Pedder Building, burgundy etc follows the thematic model set by bordeaux etc and champagne etc and focuses mainly on premium wines from its namesake region. With nearly 400 labels in store and access to 1,300 references in stock, burgundy etc boasts Hong Kong’s largest retail selection of Burgundy wines. Such a wide selection ensures both Burgundyloving beginners and discerning drinkers can find a quality wine to their liking.The comprehensive product range includes affordable everyday wines from boutique producers, to limited-production and rare labels from top estates, such as Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Henri Jayer, Leroy and Faiveley. Address: Shop 404, 4/F, Pedder Building, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2812 2009 Website: www.etcwineshops.com

Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下

Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖

Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖

Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖

Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖

Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖

Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖

Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑

Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖

Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓

Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓

L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖

Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓

Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓

Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓

Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓

Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience.

Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk

Distribution Page-#028-1.indd 2

28/3/13 6:31 PM


Jasons . Food & Living is a boutique supermarket where food meets style. Here, foodies will relish a unique range of foods, confectioneries, spirits and kitchenware from around the world – many of which are Jasons exclusives. A grand Food Hall is on hand to please the palate, as well as a Mannings Health and Beauty to complete any shopping list. With staff that is uncommonly passionate about food and designer décor, Jasons is truly the destination of choice for the city’s food lovers.

Tel: 2776 1090 Address: B2/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Email: info@jasons.com.hk Website: www.jasons.com.hk Facebook: www.facebook.com/jasons.foodandliving

Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室

Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418

The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號

French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓

Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖

The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號

Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓

NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓

Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓

O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓

St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓

Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖

Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室

Sal Curioso is located on 2nd floor, 32 Wynhdam Street, entrance on Glenealy Street. The menu of Sal Curioso is inspired by a social style of dining and reflects the flavours of the great sharing food culutures of the world such as Spain, Italy and South America. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner 7 days from 12 noon - 3pm for lunch and 6 pm for dinner. Lunch is a favorite with the unlimited tapas offering for $220 per head, perfect for Sunday afternoons with a nice bottle of wine from the select list by Nellie Ming Lee, consultant sommelier of the group. Address: 2nd Floor, 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2537 7555 Website: www.curioso.com.hk

Distribution Page-#028-1.indd 3

2/4/13 6:51 PM


Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下 Collezione Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室

Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室 Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓 Maxscene Wineshop Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 54 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室 Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖

Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室

Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室

Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號

Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下

Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪

Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪

voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下

Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下

Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖

Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪

Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖

We’re all about relaxed, simple food. Italian trattorias, English pubs, and traditional French bistros are what inspire us. From cider steamed mussels to tender roast chicken, we’ve put our own spin on a few bistro favourites. Our philosophy celebrates rustic, comfort cooking, and we’ve created a diverse menu that highlights local ingredients as well as specialty imports. Unwind with a glass of red at our happy hour and try the tapas selection that changes daily. Lounge in our sun-drenched dining room with apple crumble and coffee. Or tuck into an 8oz. New Zealand Ribeye and shamelessly savor every bite. Whether you’re craving a big brunch or fancy a few nibbles, we make food that just feels good. Address : G/F, 87-89 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Tel : 2815 9000 Website : www.societi.com.hk

Distribution Page-#028-1.indd 4

28/3/13 6:31 PM


Cru magazine special subscription offer Dynasty Medium Dry White Wine Muscat is a grape variety that was already known to the Romans who called it “apianae” in reference to its honey smell in the vineyard that attracted bees. Its nose is

Georges Duboeuf Moulin a Vent Prestige 2005 Ruby-red color with aromas of blueberry,

seductive, suggesting a flowery first approach for those

blackcurrant, plum, coffee, and vanilla. The

who like to start aperitif on a sweeter note.

round mouth turns well, and aging in oak casks gives particular distinction to this wine.

The palate is harmonious and layered, starting with a

Distinguished and harmonious.

sweet honeyed touch leading to crispness highlighting the presence of citrus and tropical fruits such as ripe pineapple and some hints of lychee. The finish is dry for a light body, leaving a very pleasant impression in the mouth.

Acclaims: Wine Spectator 90 pts Decanter World Wine Awards – Regional Trophy Price : $450

Retail Price : $125

Vinturi Essential Wine Aerator Traditionally, decanters were used to expose wine to air. However, decanting is time-consuming, cumbersome, and inconvenient. Vinturi's patent pending design speeds up this process with ease and convenience. Perfect aeration in the time it takes to pour a glass. As wine breathes, it opens up and releases its intended aromas and flavours. The more you appreciate wine, the more you'll appreciate the difference. (Limited to 24 subscribers only)

Become our Grand Cru Member ·Subscribe 12 issues for only HKD456 (original price HKD576), save more than 20% ·Immediately receive one special subscription gift ·Enjoy GRAND CRU membership benefits Member Name

Company Name

Business Address

Home Address

E-mail

Contact No.

Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com

000_Subscription.indd 1

1/3/13 7:43 PM


professional

wine cellars in hong kong

• Wholly owned by a listed company • Hong Kong RFID Award 2010 Logistics Management System • The most advanced climate control systems, anti-vibration System • Chubb Security System • Comprehensive Insurance Policy • Exclusive VIP Locker for private collcetion • Secondary wine sales on behalf of menber • Flexible Storage Plan • Nearby Shatin Racing Course

For Enquiry, please call 歡迎致電

082_Collezione.indd 1

2947 8333

•上市公司全資擁有公司 •採用榮獲2010年RFID獎物流管理系統 •最專業溫度濕度系統及防震設施 •集寶保安監測系統 •全面保險保障 •為會員提供私人珍藏保險箱 •為會員提供葡萄酒寄賣服 •靈活的儲存計劃 •鄰近沙田馬場

or visit our website 或瀏覽

www.collezione.com.hk 08/10/2012 8:54 PM


_OBC.indd 1

28/3/13 5:29 AM

LePlan GT wines   POWERED  BY  NATURE



     

"%$&(& # #!# #    ,/097-.**** ## $" "%$&(& # $#$# :27-.***"+)'!)$"  # &#+$" #    ***!%!# * #'$"

RHONE  GT  WINES 431 658


Cru Magazine 2013-04