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Passion for Wine and Life

2013 Aug

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Cover Story

panel Tasting

A Journey to the Ancient Wine World

Wine of the Ages

遊走古老葡萄酒國度

讓歲月釀成醇酒

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TABLE OF CONTENTS #032 August 2013

Wine

Life

Cru Speech 014 Japanese Wine 日本葡萄酒 016 Cru Corner

Cru Special 020 021

Bon Harvest in Bordeaux 波爾多葡萄收成了! Year of a Shining Ruby 寶紅色的光輝歲月

Cru World of Wines 054 058 060

The Gentlemen’s Choice 紳士之選 Famed Chilean Wine 天作之合 KRUG 大將之風

Hotel Life

Cru Voyage

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Cru Cover Story

024 A Journey to the Ancient Wine World 遊走古老葡萄酒國度

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064 Future development of Chilean Wines 智利酒-前瞻與未來

Cru Leader 068 070

Fathers & Sons of Bordeaux 波爾多的父與子 The Best of both worlds 完全擁有

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029 Wine of the Ages 讓歲月釀成醇酒

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Cru Investment

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080 In Touch with Art 接觸藝術 088 Hotel Arts Barcelona

Cru Panel Tasting

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生活

Watch Life 090 Natural Craft 跨越百年的不老名字

Fashion Life

073 Craftmanship from luxury to winemaking 釀酒如縫衣

092 Dressing up with Rhône 穿上隆河谷

074 Cru Review

096 Art and Culture at HAJI 文化藝術在夏至

Art Life

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Hip Holiday Wine Tours Bordeaux Harvest Tour with Rebecca Leung 梁淑意 15 – 21 September 2013

Be guided by the iconic figure of wine appreciation - Ms Rebecca Leung 梁淑意 throughout the tour to have an insider’s view of Bordeaux wines, and savour extraordinary wine selections. • Visit the most prestigious world-class Châteaux, such as Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Troplong Mondot, Phelan Segur, Pavie… • Have an Unique Harvest Experience at Château Smith Haut Lafitte • Reside at Château Beychevelle, known as the Versailles of the Médoc. • Enjoy fabulous food in Michelin starred restaurants and exclusive private dining at prestigious chateaux. Price per person: HK$46,800 + Air Fare (Double sharing basis)

Piedmont Fine Wine and White Truffle Tour 3 – 8 November 2013

An exceptional tour leading you to Piedmont – the world famous region for its wines and gastronomy, with extraordinary tasting experience of some of the best Italian wines, as well as the rare white truffle. • • • •

Visit top wine producers of Barolo and Barbaresco including Gaja, Luciano Sandrone and more… Experience a truffle hunt with dogs followed by lunch with white truffles Participate in the Alba National White Truffle Fair Be guided by a wine specialist from Hong Kong

Price per person: HK$39,800 + Air Fare (Double sharing basis)

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Letters from the Editors Slow down and have a sip 停一停,飲一飲 Urban life is always in fast pace, and you will never have time to slow down because you can never stop working or entertaining. Have you ever spent time to think of your past, present and future? I like to escape from the city, from any worry during weekends to slow down and get inspired. The best way is to open a nice bottle to share with friends. My work is always related to wine, and I sometimes feel sad that I could only appreciate many of them in a short period of time. In some cases I need to taste tens of wines in even shorter time. I feel sorry for these wines being tasted which cannot show their best to me. So whenever I taste a wine off work, I will spend as long as I can to see how it will evolve. I enjoy that much and then one of my friends asks me why his bottles taste the best when he is about to finish it? I told him that you should treat her better and she will show you the best. It is not only the people that forget how to appreciate wine, but some wine is turning into a beverage with additives like coming from factories. I hope everyone could slow down to appreciate any bottle. You will discover more than what you might expect. 現代城市人步伐急促,沒有安靜下來的時間,不是忙工作,便是忙著玩樂。有幾多時間能安靜下來,想想自己的過去、現在、將來呢?我喜歡到遠離市區的地方 渡過週末,遠離塵囂、忘卻煩惱,讓自己慢下來,感受一下周圍的情操。這時候最好跟三五知己,開一瓶葡萄酒,讓時間將她洗滌,再慢慢享受她的年華,感受 她的嫵媚。平常工作雖然離不開葡萄酒,但多少次不是來去匆匆,未及讓她們展現出最美的一面,便是面對著萬千佳麗,只能走馬看花只望了一眼便要把她送 走,品嚐時間不是太短,便是要在更短的時間內品評數十款酒釀。回想起實在覺得有點對不起 她們。因此每當有機會再次在工作以外的時間喝酒,總會好好欣賞,讓她們有充 足的時間去表現葡萄酒的千變幻化,這也是葡萄酒的樂趣之一。不少朋友經常 跟我訴苦,為什麼最後一小口的酒會那麼可口。我只能說你沒有給她時間,給 她空間,去達到她最美的一面。可能大家都在都市被快餐文化渲染,忘了要閒 逸地去享受葡萄酒所帶來的樂趣。其實不單是喝酒的人,酒本身也被這樣的速 食主義所影響,加快的成熟,加色加味加酸,跟工廠的飲料沒有兩樣。希望 大家能停下來,慢慢品嚐那杯中的滋味,你將會發現更多,在酒釀中找到生 活。

Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com

Editorial Director : Eddie Chui

Publisher : Cru Media Limited

Features Editor : Joe Lo

Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham

Assistant Editor : Ian Wong

Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Tasting Editor : Francois Luck

Tel : (852) 3568 9100

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ISSN 2221016-4

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Mongolian Spirits 蒙古的酒精

Joe Lo Feature Editor joe@cru-magazine.com

During last months issue I mentioned the fascinating culture of drinking baijiu in Inner Mongolia, which is as tied together as the cuisine as to the national culture. Mongolia liquor is 30-60% in strength, and Mongolians start with their toasts early in the day, and every meals. Probably before the day has ended they will already be drunk unconscious! So to prevent getting drunk so quickly, I heard that the fat from milk products are good at lining the stomach and reducing the amount of alcohol that enters the bloodstream. So during a tiny gap in the non-stop toasts that were raised during my trip, I stuffed myself with a combination of fatty foods, and sure enough at the end of a long dinner, out of my five friends, two were down, one was halfway there, but me and the other person who followed the fatty diet survived. Throughout this alcoholic journey, the homemade yoghurt liquor of the Mongolian herders became my favorite, and I had one glass every morning to sober up. Of course, the best way to prevent being drunk is not to drink too much at all! 上期提到的蒙古之旅中,每一頓豐富的菜餚中都必定會配以酒精度起碼30%-60%的蒙古白酒,不甚習慣如蒙古人般那一乾而盡 的豪氣的話,被一整桌的人熱烈敬酒後,恐怕不到半句鐘已經醉得不醒人事了。

突然遇到這些盛情難卻的情況,便要立即做好防範工夫以防醉酒,筆者曾聽說過奶類、油脂都是不錯的預防醉酒食物,原理就 是它們都能夠形成一層保護膜在胃壁,減少酒精進入血液中。於是,在不停乾杯的空檔期間,我將所有胃部的空間都裝滿所有 極盡肥膩的食物,一整片羊脂涮兩涮便沾上厚厚一層麻醬放進口,果然,一整晚下來,我們五個人中有兩個倒了、一個半醉, 剩下仍然清醒的兩個就只有我和另一位狂吃羊脂的友人。在整個「酒精之旅」中,蒙古牧民自家製的酸奶更成為了我的至愛, 在喝多了的每天清早,一杯「回魂酸奶」絕對是不可或缺的恩物。當然,最好的方法還是別喝多 !

Not Pining for Retsina 松樹脂的味道

Ian Wong Assistant Editor ian@cru-magazine.com

When tasting wines I always try to keep an open mind about different styles and varietals from countries all around the world—as long as they are unique and true to their terroir. I may not like all sherry by itself, but nothing really matches Spanish tapas as well as a great Fino. Vin de Jaune from Jura also isn’t something I would drink everyday, but with a cheese like Comté or even with Chinese Hairy Crab, the oxidative nature of the wine makes the food really extraordinary. Despite this, I’m conflicted about a Retsina wine, which we tasted this month in our panel tasting. Retsina is a Greek white or rose wine that is made in amphora, and then sealed with pine resin, giving it a very distinctive flavour. The Greeks have made it for over 2000 years, so it has a historical place on the Greek dining table...but personally I’m sticking with the delicious white grape Assyritiko. 品酒的時候我一向都會對來自世界各國的不同風格保持開放的態度,因為這些都是反映當地terroir的見證。我不是一個雪莉酒 迷,但若要配上西班牙tapas的話,一瓶優質的Fino最能匹配。Jura地區的黃酒Vin de Jaune也絕非本人日常酒單中的常客,但 它那獨特的氧化味卻能令某些食物如Comté芝士或大閘蟹的味道提升不少。儘管這樣,我對剛剛的Panel Tasting中有款Retsina 酒釀仍然有點保留。Retsina是希臘以amphora釀製的白酒或玫瑰酒,然後封存在松樹樹脂中,帶來相當獨特的味道。希臘人已 經釀造這些酒超過二千年,所以在希臘的飲食文化中具有相當歷史的…但我會繼續支持美味的Assyritiko。

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾.貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景,亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師,更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。

Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇,愛好美酒美食,大 中華酒評人協會會員,英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》,電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。

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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡.德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編,並於 1996 年與米歇爾.貝塔納 (Michel Bettane)合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南,內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師, 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地,從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師,都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述,極具天賦能力。

Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 , 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣, Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素,以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。

Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.

Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong. Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.

劉涵濤在香港出生,於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師,2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起,曾於澳洲的南澳,維多利亞 省,法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作,現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師,亦同時用自然,低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒,「傳」。

Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗,考獲 WSET

Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.

高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師,亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course,亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。

Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生,曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作, 正職市場推廣,副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人,只有懶惰的,所以最愛試不同的美容產 品,讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。

單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名,用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite,企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上,生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食,及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業,可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。

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T a s t i n g

Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s  Singtao  Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師,擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》,並在 多家報章雜誌包括:《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄,亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道-美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。

Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was  awarded  the  Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒,2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格,並成為香港首批 CSW,並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體,並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書(萬里機構 出版)。

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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說,每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情,因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程,充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後,現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 , 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。

Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判,並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一,持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格,對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。

Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny  from  Burgundy  and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎,亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣,他先後任職於不 同酒商,包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ,並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教,曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒, 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。

P a n e l

Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師,亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程, 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ,鳳凰衛視,瑪麗嘉 兒,味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一,Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。

Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist  of  Spirits  from  the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會( WSET )的文憑資 格,亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士,並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗,亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。

Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA. She has attained Sommelier  certification  from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia. 

Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.

Jordan Choy Certificated  Bordeaux  Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday  Bordeaux  2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.

Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師,同為一 為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」,成為中國/香港的 代表,遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。

Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College

法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師(L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux),香港葡萄酒

的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業,翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作,由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。

學會導師,曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯,撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審,包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。

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Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣, 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展,並接受不同 崗位的訓練,親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化,對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛,把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師,既能發揮其 個人所長,亦可寓工作於娛樂。

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Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 , J o rd i 現 為 A S C   F i n e   W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier,亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項,包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍,亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。

Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong  Sommelier  Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender  Association.  He  is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t   W i n e   L i s t   Aw a rd s 2008  and  2009,  also  the California  Grapes  International Inc.,  and  the  Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員,亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes  International  Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一,自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍,更於 2006

Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼

Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”

助理餐飲經理,以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師, 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師,對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍,並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮,是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師,前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。

香港最年輕侍酒師之一,Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道:「作為一名侍酒 師,我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」

Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.

Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.

年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。

Benny Chung B e n n y   C h u n g   i s   t h e   P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.

Gon Leung Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in H One as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.

Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.

Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部

Gon曾留學於瑞士,修讀酒店管理課 程,回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作,現為餐廳H One的品酒師, 憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒佳餚的 搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約七年前 於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡萄酒, 也在學習上、工作上不斷加深認識 及接觸葡萄酒,越來越被這種神之水 滴所吸引。

Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久,當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間,Kevin除了在工作中不斷

項目經理,熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格,同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。

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汲取經驗外,更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程,成為一位出色的品酒師,對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師,對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉,當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。

天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣,母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多,曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作,亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作,自此愛上亞 洲,現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。

Katrina於2006年加入飲食業,現正 於香港日航酒店工作,主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她,已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽,不但成功進入香港區五 強,最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍,被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。

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T a s t i n g

Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師,現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師,曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍,被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。

Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request. Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間,由 公關到宴會搞手,到作家與記者、導 師,她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。

Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.

Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.

從事飲食業十多年,Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 , 曾 為 G r a n d   C r u ( C o v a   G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。

來自意大利 Friuli ,長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理,現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。

Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the Sommelier of Shangri-la Hotel Kowloon.

Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.

Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.

資深新聞工作者,葡萄酒愛好者, 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。

剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。

Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Place Hotel. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.

Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.

Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.

Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年,曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作,現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。

Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作,包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille,Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines,現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。

Vincent是香港朗豪酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年,Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣 充滿熱情。

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Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。他剛

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曾於澳洲留學,Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The  Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師,現 為九龍香格里拉大酒店之品酒師。

Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET. Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證

Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Il Miliones. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年,曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師,現為 意大利餐廳Il Milione的品酒師。

Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar.

品酒師;葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家,亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。

Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師,從事多年飲食界相關行 業,經驗豐富,現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒,希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。

Andy She Andy is now the Sommelier of Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel. He had also worked at Cuisine Cuisine and The French Window, Langham Hotel as Sommelier. In 2013, He was qualified Senior Sommelier level and being the committee of HKSA.

Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage.

Andy是香港萬麗海景酒店的品酒師, 曾任職國金軒、The French Window及 尖沙咀朗廷酒店的品酒師。2013年考 獲香港專業品酒師協會認可的資深品 酒師會員資格及擔任協會委員.

擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書,Don曾 於Domani,香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作,現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。

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Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fook Lam Moon. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred hotels including InterContinental Hong Kong, Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年,曾於不同的五星級酒店工作,包 括:香港洲際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒專業資 格,也是香港專業品酒師協會會員。

Danny Ng Danny is a recognized member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. He is now the Assistant Chief Sommelier/ Assistant Bar Manager of American Club. He had worked at St. Betty as Sommelier. Also, he had worked in “Church St. Enotica” Italian one Hat Restaurant in Melbourne Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He is studying the WSET Diploma Level 4. 作 為 香 港 品 酒 師 協 會 認 可 會 員 , Danny持 有 香 港 葡 萄 酒 教 育 中 心 第 三 級 , 現 於 美 國 會 任 職 助 理 品 酒 師 , 亦 曾 於 Betty’s  Kitchen 任 職 品 酒 師 。 曾 於 澳 洲 墨 爾 本 「 Church St. Enotica」意大利餐廳工作一年,亦是他認識葡萄酒和鍾情於澳洲葡萄酒的 地方。Danny現正修讀WSET文憑第四級。

Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Langham Place Mongkok, China Club and Hip Cellar. As a senior member of the HKSA, she also has an certificated Specialist of Wine, Joey is now the Sommelier of No.1 Waitanyuen cellar in Shanghai. Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐飲管理學士學位課 程,畢業後於美國 Renaissance Hotel實習,曾在香港君悅酒店、旺角朗豪酒店、中國會及 Hip Cellar工作,考獲CSW證書的Joey亦為香港專業品酒師協會高級品酒師之一。現於上海 外灘源壹號酒窖任職侍酒師。

Vincent Chue Vincent Chue received fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄酒訓練,並取得WSET的進階證書,同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理,對西班 牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。

Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments, Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高級品酒師,曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集 團品酒師、香港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines和Houghton Wines酒窖員工,著有 葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書籍《Wine Me》。

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japanese Wine 日本葡萄酒

English Text : Ian Symonds // Translation : Eddie Chui

Mention ‘Japanese wine’ and in a heartbeat someone says ‘Sake’

當提及「日本酒」的時候,大家都會馬上想起日本的清酒,但我想提及的

and that’s not the answer! Japanese wine is exactly what it should

卻是葡萄酒!日本葡萄酒就是用葡萄釀造的酒,不是用米釀造的。而當中

be, wine made from grapes, and most certainly not from rice. The

一款較知名的日本葡萄品種便是甲州葡萄( Koshu ),在超過一千年前經

Japanese grape is the ‘Koshu’. This travelled along the Silk Route

過絲綢之路傳入日本。乍看下日本人好像花了很多時間來好好釀造這款本

to Japan at least one thousand years ago. It seems at a casual

土葡萄酒,事實並不是這樣。他們早就開始釀造甜酒,已有好幾百年的歷

glance that it has taken the Japanese that long to perfect the final

史,甲州葡萄跟 Muscat  of  Alexandria 混種培養出 Neo-Muscat 葡萄。

drink but that’s not so. Sweet wine has been made for centuries;

這兩款 Muscat 跟龍眼葡萄( Ryugan )都是主要的食用葡萄,在香港也

cross-fertilization between Muscat of Alexandria and Koshu

普遍地可以找得到的。在十九世紀末到二十世紀初開始發展乾身及氣泡葡

Sanjaku produced Neo-Muscat; these two with Ryugan were

萄酒,近三十年更加因為大量的投資及海內外葡萄酒比賽的驅使,葡萄酒

used mostly as table grapes and we would know and eat them

釀造工藝進步神速。

in Hong Kong. The dry and sparkling wines are a development since the late 1800’s / early 1900’s; but pushed forwards in the last

我很幸運最近能在理工大學的食物與餐飲學院談論甲州葡萄,同時在另一

thirty years by local and international competition results and with

個由Northeast Wines & Spirits舉行的品酒會上嚐到不同的甲州葡萄酒。

massive investment in winemaking. 這些酒顏色偏向淡薄如水,我在兩次品酒當中都記下相同的特性:充滿花

I was most fortunate to be asked to talk about Koshu at Hong

香,帶接骨木花、桃花,甚至茉莉花香。入口清爽怡人,帶礦物香,跟壽

Kong PolyU’s Food and Wine Academy recently and today have

司是絕配。在理大,由Zuma過來的大廚準備了高級的新鮮魚肉,造出來的

tasted yet more Koshu at a tasting organized by Northeast Wines

菜色,跟乾身或氣泡的甲州葡萄酒配合得天衣無縫。

& Spirits. 甲州葡萄果皮呈粉紅色,如果讓果汁跟果皮接觸,可以釀成「 Gris 」風格

The wines are generally very light in colour, almost like water, my

的酒釀。這跟 Pinot  Gris 或 Gweurztraminer 風格十分相近。這樣的造法

tasting notes on both occasions suggest floral notes, elderflower,

帶來多一點例如梨子及橘子的味道,同時保留清爽的礦物味及酸度,用來

peach blossom, even jasmine. On the palate they are crisp,

配以魚類海鮮十分合適。

refreshing, mineral and almost inevitably a perfect match with sushi. At the PolyU the chef from Zuma caused gasps of pure

日本人追求完美的性格也反映在釀酒方面,全人手採收的葡萄,細心的葡

delight with his top quality fresh fish dishes washed down with dry

萄篩選,一絲不苟的釀酒監控。當我聽到 Grace  Wine ( Chuo  Budoshu

and sparkling Koshu.

Co.,  Ltd. )的女釀酒師三澤彩奈解釋後便明白她們釀造的酒如何能將那 份純淨完全表現出來。位於山梨縣的中心位置,那是最優質的地區,帶著

Koshu has a pink skin and if the juice is left with the skins a ‘Gris’

清涼的大陸性氣候,清爽潔淨的葡萄酒由純美的葡萄汁液釀造而成。在理

or grey version can be made. This is similar to Pinot Gris or even

大的課堂,我們品嚐了在酒泥( lees )上陳年的 Lunaris Koshu ,就好像

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015

If something can be perfected then look to Japan, the hand picking, careful berry selection and intricate winemaking needed to make such a pure expression in the wine was explained. 日本人追求完美的性格也反映在釀酒方面,全人手採收 的葡萄,細心的葡萄篩選,一絲不苟的釀酒監控。

Gewurztraminer in its style. It has a little more

and a fuller flavour profile. Then amazingly a red

flavour with edges of pear and citrus but the same

blend made from a hybrid named ‘Muscat Bailey-A’,

dry fish friendly mineral and acidity.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This made a simple fruity red wine with light body, supple tannin

If something can be perfected then look to

and real balance.

Japan, the hand picking, careful berry selection and intricate winemaking needed to make such a

Both events showed clearly that these wines are

pure expression in the wine was explained when

worth trying and will no doubt find a place on wine

listening to Ayana Misawa, the lady winemaker

lists and in the wine fridges of those looking to try

from Grace Wine (Chuo Budoshu Co., Ltd).

new and different wines and styles.

Wines from the heart of Yamanishi prefecture, the centre of quality production, are made in a cool continental climate and are superb examples of

在 Loire 出產的 Muscadet 。除此之外,不少酒莊也開始

crisp, clear, clean grape juice fermented carefully

嘗試將甲州葡萄酒放在橡木桶陳年,這方法也同樣會使

to show such wines. In the PolyU we tasted a

酒體略為豐厚,及帶來橡木的呍呢拿風味。白酒方面,

Lunaris Koshu that had been aged on it’s lees, a

最令我意想不到的是 Lunaris 以傳統方式釀造的氣泡甲州

little like Muscadet from the Loire; experimentation

葡萄酒,非常細緻的氣泡,是精巧的工藝所得的成果。

has been made with oak ageing some Koshu and

我們也品嚐了 Manns 酒莊的 Cuvée Close (在酒槽進行

this too works giving the wine more body and the

二次發酵)半甜氣泡酒,同樣有趣!清新的口味,絕對

familiar vanilla character. The most amazing for me

適合放工後的旁晚,跟海鮮配搭也是一流的。

on the white wine side was the Lunaris traditional method sparkling Koshu, this was stunning and

Grace  Wine 也有釀造 Chardonnay ,只作少許的橡木桶

so technically correct with tiny, tiny bubbles. We

陳年,帶來多點酒體厚度及更豐富的味道。然後還有一

also tried a Manns Cuvée Close (tank method) sec

款混釀的紅酒,由 Muscat Bailey-A (一種混種葡萄)、

Koshu, this was just fun! A lively, fresh, super drink

Cabernet Sauvignon及Merlot調配而成。她是款簡單的果

to start an evening and again a smart match with

香型紅酒,酒體輕盈,單寧細緻而平衡的酒釀。

seafood. 兩次活動都充分表現出這些酒絕對值得一試,她們在餐廳

Grace Wine also offer a Chardonnay, this had some

的酒牌上或家中的酒櫃都能爭取到一席位,如果你喜愛嘗

very light oak treatment that again gave some body

試新的酒款,截然不同風格的酒,千萬不要錯過。

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Dom Pérignon 2004

August

D

om Pérignon vintage Champagne is always the best representation of the brand, as in order to produce a blockbuster Champagne, the wine is only made in exceptional years. Following a great deal of weather change in 2003, the region in 2004 had only what one could say to be favourable weather, with fruit from 17 vineyards ripening and growing fairly smoothly, with a restrained and elegant complexity. There is great tension and length in this wine, with aromas of almonds, white flowers, dried fruit, and nice baked bread aroma. On the palate it is rich and delicate, with a very creamy texture and a vibrant spiciness.

Dom  Pérignon 作為年份香檳的優秀代表品牌, 為了釀造出獨一無二的出眾酒款,只會於出色 的年份才會釀製一鳴驚人的香檳。繼富有變化 的 2003 年後, 2004 年的香檳區可謂風調雨順, 來自17個葡萄園的果實無論是生長期和成熟期 都進行得相當順利,釀成內斂而優雅、深沉而 具張力、綿長濃郁的香檳。它的香氣沉厚,有 著杏仁、白色水果、乾花和烘焙香味,豐富而 細膩;口感濃郁富質感,而且充滿活力、辛香 醇厚。

Grand Marnier Summer Cocktails Grand Marnier 夏日雞尾酒

I

四款新創雞尾酒,左起: Medici Spritz 、 Riviera Cup 、 Pineapple Basil Smash 、 Indochine Buck

n   t h e   h e a t   o f   s u m m e r, fresh and fruity cocktails become everyone’s favourite alcoholic  beverage.Wi t h   o v e r ten  years  of  bartending experience, the Grand Marnier Brand Ambassador Adam Devermann  has  worked  in numerous bars and restaurants as  a  bartending  consultant, and is particularly adept at using Grand Marnier in his

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drinks. This year Adam will be bringing four new cocktails using  Grand  Marnier  at Hotel Icon to freshen up your s u m m e r.   Tr y   t h e m   o u t   f r o m July 8th to September the 8th at Green, the bar and café of the hotel. 夏日炎炎,富有水果清新氣息的 雞尾酒成了大家消暑的最佳杯 中物。擁有十多年調酒經驗的

Grand Marnier品牌雞尾酒大使 Adam  Devermann曾於多間酒吧

及餐廳中擔任調酒顧問,而且尤 其擅長使用Grand Marnier調製 雞尾酒。今個夏日 Adam 便為唯 港薈帶來四款全新構思的 Grand Marnier 雞尾酒,以香橙與干邑 的獨特味感,帶來清新涼快的清 暑感覺。四款雞尾酒由7月8日至 9 月 8 日於唯港薈的 Green及天外 天獨家供應。

品牌雞尾酒大使 Adam Devermann

More Information: Hotel Icon 唯港薈 Tel: 3400 1000 Address: 17 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK Website: www.hotel-icon.com

27/7/13 4:56 PM


August

Enjoy Sunday Brunch at Catalunya 享受Catalunya 週日早午餐

O

n Sunday there is never any need to wake up early, and the best way to start a well deserved holiday is to enjoy a feast at brunch. Modeled on the famous tapas restaurants and bazaars of Barcelona, newly opened Spanish restaurant Catalunya is divided into different areas such as a Charcuterie section for Spanish cold cuts, cheese in the Quesos area, fresh and pickled seafood in the Fish area, as well as various types of slow cooked and simmered food in the Guisos area. There is also a vegetarian section in the Orchard area, although meat lovers can have their Iberico and beef in the Butcher’s section. Lastly of course there are also classic dishes like paella and Segovia

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suckling pig, and the dishes will be updated every week! 星期日放假不用上班不用早 起,最享受的就是一頓豐富的 brunch,懶洋洋地享受假日。仿 照西班牙巴塞隆拿著名的聖約瑟 傳統市集而構思,西班牙時尚食 府 Catalunya 於四月才剛開業, 在新設計的週日早午餐中將餐廳 打扮得有如市集一般,劃分為 不同區域,如供應西班牙冷盤 的Charcuterie區、芝士的Quesos 區、新鮮及醃漬海鮮的Fish區、 以及提供各款慢煮菜式如加泰隆 尼亞煨嫩牛的Guisos區。另外亦 為素食者設計了提供各款沙律、 醃漬蔬菜和 Catalunya 招牌番茄 他他的 Orchard 區;以及充滿驚 喜的 Butcher’s 區,供應牛肉他 他、西班牙黑毛豬柳等菜式。另 外更提供 Segovia 風味乳豬及傳 統西班牙海鮮飯,菜式更會每週 更新!

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August

WHISK - The New Enlightened Wine Destination 最新葡萄酒好地方

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n  Hong  Kong,  the  most pressing  problem  for discerning diners has never been about merely finding a place to eat and drink well, but rather about finding a place to eat well and drink well affordably.

Traditional  Chinese  restaurants have  always  been  extremely reasonable for BYOB, but what about those times when it is a special celebration, or when friends simply want European cuisine? Good luck. The extremely high corkage fee that is imposed in most high-end dining restaurants prohibits a progressive BYOB culture, forcing many wine lovers to either fork up a huge mark-up for entry level wines, or dine without any wine at all (which hardly constitutes a good dinner party)! But in what we hope is the first bold step for the fine-dining restaurants of  Hong  Kong,  WHISK,  a Michelin-recommended European restaurant in The Mira Hong

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Kong Hotel, has introduced a new wine concept that highlights the restaurant as a destination for real wine lovers. What this means is that aside from having perfectly mature classics like Salon Le Mesnil 1997 or Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’ 2005, the prices are incredibly close to retail price. The Salon is sold in other hotel restaurants for $5390, and is available in WHISK for $2176. The Leflaive likewise usually goes for $4890, but sells for $1398 at WHISK, proving just how insane wine mark ups in other restaurants has been recently. And for wines at more casual prices, one really cannot do better than $561 for Klein Constantia ‘Vin de Constance’ 2005 from South Africa, which is one of the great sweet wines of the world—and which costs $950 at comparable restaurants. We could go on and on, and assuredly there are wines at lower prices that will please every kind of diner. It is

ridiculous that many consumers have accepted that $400 will only get them a mediocre wine in Hong Kong, when in fact they can easily have something quite extraordinary at WHISK. So for that next romantic date out or reunion with old friends, put your faith in the 200+ wine list at the restaurant, and try something you wouldn’t previously have dared to. 在香港,對出外用膳的人來 說,要找一間好的餐廳不難, 但要找一間食物和酒都同樣高 質素的餐廳,而且物有所值的 話就絕對不是一件易事。 一般中式餐館來說都是自攜酒 水的好去處,但敞若遇著甚麼 特別紀念日或者很想吃一頓西 餐的日子怎辦?祝你好運了, 高級餐廳那高昂的開瓶費正正 就是為了杜絕自攜酒水的客人 而生的,迫使許多愛酒之人到 餐廳用餐時,只好叫一瓶價高 得離譜的入門酒,又或者索性 不喝酒了(實在令一頓晚餐失 色不少)!

在香港高級餐廳中踏出大膽一 步的,是位於The Mira Hong Kong酒店的米芝蓮推介歐陸菜 餐廳WHISK,創立了一套相當 獨特的餐廳葡萄酒制度,為愛 酒客帶來一大喜訊。就好像如 一些經典的酒款Salon Le Mesnil 1997或Domaine  Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les  Combettes’2005, 這些酒的價格都相當接近零 售價。Salon在其他酒店的 餐廳售$5390,而WHISK則 只 需 $ 2 1 7 6 ; Leflaive一般索 價$4890,在WHISK只需$1398 。說明了餐廳酒水的利潤是 如何地高得驚人!對於一般 中價的酒款,好像來自南非 的Klein  Constantia‘Vin  de Constance’ 2005售價為$561, 但其他餐廳則售$950。這些比 較其實還可以沒完沒了地伸延 下去,因為這裡有更多酒都能 夠以更合理的價格吸引食客。 對比起$400只能得到一些很一 般的酒,在WHISK卻可以享受 到更特別的東西。在下一次的 約會或者聚餐,不妨考慮一試 酒單中那些未嚐過的酒款?

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“Breathing between the wines” by Yu-Sen Lin

林裕森新作《弱滋味》

T

aiwanese wine writer, Yu-Sen Lin, has released his lastest piece, “Breathing between the wines” to tell his own thoughts on valuing different wines. The development of modern critics and trends in the taste of people. Lin tries to tell from the basic how we should appreciate wine in different occasion. “A rock pillar is not necessarily stronger than a bamboo scaffolding under earthquake or thunderstorm. A wine without the structure and body doesn’t mean it will not age well. Many wines which seems fragile is of huge aging potential, usually last tens of years.” Another remarkable piece by Lin. 台灣著名葡萄酒作家林裕森,最新作品《弱滋味》一反正統對葡萄酒的 審美角度,以發自內心的另一種價值觀去反思著不同的葡萄酒,從傳統 到現代的葡萄酒評價方式,以至在不同地方所吹起的不同潮流等,從基 本去展現葡萄酒的真諦。「看似屹立不搖的巨大石柱,卻不一定比隨風 飄搖的竹架更經得起地震與風雨的摧折。沒有厚實酒體與堅固架構的葡 萄酒,就一定經不起時間的考驗嗎?許多看似柔弱清淡的葡萄酒,其實 都常有超出想像的驚人耐久潛力,不只是十數年,常常是數十年。」喜 歡他的朋友千萬不要錯過這本佳作。

James Suckling’s documentary: “Cannubi: A Vineyard Kissed by God”

J

ames Suckling just released the documentary movie named, “Cannubi: A Vineyard Kissed by God”. It is about the merely 15 hectare of vineyard, Cannubi, which is regarded as the Grand Cru of Barolo, the famous wine region in the north of Italy. In the documentary, owners from the producers of Cannubi wine like Dalimano, Paolo Scavino, Luciano Sandrone and Ceretto, etc, talk about the vineyard and history. Besides, there is also the disputes about the definition of boundary of Cannubi and also the usage of the name. Electronic version is available on jamessuckling.com.

James Suckling剛推出了一部名為《Cannubi: A Vineyard Kissed by God》的記錄片,當中主要介紹意大利北部著名產酒區Barolo中只有15公 頃,卻被譽為Barolo的Grand Cru特級田:Cannubi葡萄園。當中介紹的 酒莊包括在Cannubi擁有較大面積的Dalimano、Paolo Scavino、Luciano Sandrone、Ceretto等等。除了各莊主的簡介外,也有提及近年有關 Cannubi位置定義,及名字的使用權所相關的爭議。電子版本可在 jamessuckling.com訂購。

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Text : Eddie Chui

Year of a Shining Ruby 寶紅色的光輝歲月

Jebsen Fine Wines, one of the leading wine merchants in Hong Kong, has been representing Taylor’s port for the last 15 years, and has been actively promoting port culture by organizing port tastings and dinners, including Taylor’s Scion which is a very rare pre-phylloxera port made more than 150 years ago. Vintage port is also another piece showcasing their excellent quality.

Taylor’s Vintage Port 2011 Pre-order price at HK$548 per bottle. Stock available in late August 預訂價每瓶港幣548元,八月底正式到貨。

Many of the port houses in Douro are excited to declared 2011 as the next vintage Port year after 2007 and 2009, and Taylor’s, one of the most historic Port houses, has also released the 2011 vintage Port series. Vintage port is different from tawny Port in that it spends a relatively short period of time in large oak vat, and the aging and maturation are mainly done after bottling. It evolves and matures for as long as a few decades or even over a hundred years. Taylor’s decision to declare Vintage Port year is based entirely on the quality of the wine, like in 2009, they decided to release the Vintage Port when not all houses declared. In 2007, we had a cooler and elegant vintage for Port, while the 2009 give us some powerful and tannic wine. On the other hand, 2011 could be classified as a perfect port vintage— during 2011, the majority of Europe’s vineyards struggled with bad weather, but the Douro

Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port is the single estate vintage port respresenting the best of the house. This boxset consists of 5 verticals of 1995, 1997, 2000, 2005 and 2007.

water reserves for the vines in Douro to survive through the hot and dry summer, resulting in a

這是Taylor’s 的Quinta de Vargellas單一莊園年份波 特酒套裝,由1995、 1997、2000、2005及2007 組成。是酒莊的代表作。

great harvest with exceptional fruits. The wines are juicy with intense flavour, and the tannins

Price 訂價:HK$10,888 / Set 套

region enjoyed an exceptionally glorious year. Winter showers in 2010 provided sufficient

are ripe with a firm structure. It is truly a textbook vintage for vintage Port, and we look forward to these wines maturing over the next few decades. Taylor’s vintage Port 2011 is based on a blend from their Quinta de Vargellas and Quinta de Terra Feita, complemented by some wine from the Quinta do Junco. At our tasting, we are attracted by the intense violet nose followed by the dark fruit of blackberry and cassis, this reminds us of the Vargellas. On the palate the purity of the juicy fruit is supported by subtle note of liquorice and black coffee, lengthening to the finish with sweet ripe tannin that is so refined and rounded that you seldom expect from a young vintage port which is usually harsh

The griftbox set of Taylor’s Scion Taylor’s Scion 尊貴禮盒裝

and rough. Wine critics around the world have all praised this glorious vintage of Taylor’s with

Price 訂價:HK$23,000 / Set 套

Jancis Robinson giving it 19.5/20, Neal Martin at 96-98pts, and James Suckling at 96pts. Vintage Port has always needed a long period of time to evolve in the bottle to reach maturity, and the 2011 wines will only start showing their delicacy from 30 years onwards, before reaching their peak at 60 or 70 years. The very best vintage Ports can age for more than a century and still excel. In recent years, the style of these long living wines have changed

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Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui)

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a bit and they are definitely more accessible early than the Port wines of the past. Douro winemakers have started to make the wines smoother from the start, although they maintain enough tannic structure to easily age and evolve for decades. So if you want to invest in some 2011 vintage wines for a newborn child, the 2011 vintage Ports will likely be your best choice amongst all European wines. 香港最具規模酒商之一的捷成洋酒引入Taylor’s波特酒已有十五年之久,同時不斷推動著波特酒文化, 經常舉辦波特酒品鑑會及晚宴,包括Taylor’s系列當中最珍貴的Scion酒款,她是在根瘤蚜蟲害前釀造 的古舊波特酒,有超過150年歷史。除此之外,年份波特酒也是Taylor’s的另一實力代表作。

繼2007年後,不少酒莊也將2011年確立為最新的年份波特酒年份。當中最具歷史的品牌之 一,Taylor’s也早於四月宣布繼2007年及2009年後,推出2011年年份波特酒(Vintage Port)。 簡單說明一下,年份波特酒跟茶色波特酒(Tawny Port)不同,只有短時間在大型橡木桶陳釀, 熟成主要在裝瓶後進行,持續著數十年至過百載的歲月洗禮。而Taylor’s主要依從當年的收成及 品質,決定是否推出年份波特酒。就像2009年,只有少數酒莊像Taylor’s推出年份波特酒。 相對2007年的清涼、優雅及2009年的溫暖、充滿力量而高單寧,2011年是一個經典的偉大年 份,當整個歐洲的葡萄農、釀酒師都在面對著挑戰的時候,在葡萄牙的波特酒產區,卻是滿載著 勝利的黃金一年。2010冬天豐盛的雨水提供充足的水份讓葡萄渡過炎熱乾燥的夏天。直至收成 的時候,天氣有如教科書般理想,葡萄得以飽滿成熟,充滿果香的同時也有美妙的單寧結構,味 道複雜集中,將會是另一個偉大的年份波特酒,在長年熟成後展現出美態。 Taylor’s的2011年份波特酒一如以往,以自家的葡萄園Quinta de Vargellas及Quinta de Terra Feita為骨幹,加上部分來自Quinta do Junco的酒釀來調配。我們品嚐的時候,被那帶著強烈 紫羅蘭花香的氣味吸引著,加上豐富的黑漿果如黑莓及黑加倫,充滿Vargellas的風格。入口純 淨結實,飽滿多汁的果香帶有陣陣甘草及黑咖啡的味道在口腔伸延,收結單寧甜美柔順,跟我 們認識的年份波特酒在年輕時的表現完全不同,沒有那種粗獷青澀。世界各地的酒評家都對 Taylor’s這年的波特酒有很高的評價,Jancis Robinson給予19.5/20分,Neal Martin給予96-98 分,James Suckling給予96分。 年份波特酒一向以來都需要長時間熟成,需要酒到中年才開始展現出成熟美味的一面,年過六、 七十年才屬於壯年,上佳的年份波特酒經過一百年仍美味可口,當然你必需好好存放。近年有趣 的是,這些應該經過50年才進入適飲期的年份波特酒,在剛裝瓶後不久便可以飲用,釀酒師解釋 道這是他們的目標,但並不代表她們不能長時間陳年。如果你想投資2011年的佳釀或為你2011 年誕生的寶貝留下一些葡萄酒讓他將來享用,年份波特酒是一個不錯的選擇。

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Bon Harvest in Bordeaux 波爾多葡萄收成時!

Chinese Text: Joe Lo Translation: Eddie Chui

Château Beychevelle

Château Smith Haut Lafitte

Château Haut-Brion

Rebecca Leung

Château Mouton Rothschild

September is a big month for every wine grower and winemaker in Bordeaux since it is the time for harvest! After a year of hard work comes a great reward—the new vintage. Have you ever imagined joining a château during harvest and picking your own grapes in Bordeaux? Hip Holiday, which specializes in wine tours around the world, has organized a “Bordeaux Harvest Tour” this year. Wine lovers can spend their first ever harvest experience in Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards. Alongside that, they will also be able to visit Château Haut-Brion and Château Mouton Rothschild, two of the legendary First Growths estates. Other great estates in Bordeaux including Troplong Mondot, Phelan Segur, Lynch Bages and Pavie have also been included for the tour. They have also invited famed wine writer, critic, and tutor Ms. Rebecca Leung to join this tour to share her professional knowledge and experience about these estates and their wines.

Les Sources de Caudalie

九月份,是舊世界的葡萄農與釀酒師最關鍵的時節,因為葡萄要收成 了!經過一年的悉心種植,葡萄果實在九月中旬都會被採收,開始進行 新一年份的釀酒工序。閒時喜愛摸酒杯底的朋友們有否想過要參與酒莊 的收成,在波爾多名莊的葡萄園中親手剪下一串串葡萄? 主打葡萄酒主題旅遊的Hip Holiday在今年度的收成季節特地舉辦了「波 爾多收成之旅」,讓一眾愛酒愛波爾多的酒迷有機會在Smith Haut Lafitte 酒莊的葡萄園中親身體驗採收葡萄的喜悅。行程中更會安排探訪波爾多 1855年分級制中的列級酒莊Haut-Brion和Mouton Rothschild、以及世 界級波爾多名莊包括Troplong Mondot、Phelan Segur、Lynch Bages和 Pavie等。「波爾多收成之旅」亦會限定參團的人數,而且更邀請了身兼 葡萄酒作家、酒評及導師的梁淑意小姐同行,在旅程中以她的專業葡萄 酒知識和經驗分享和介紹各酒莊和酒釀。 除了參觀和品酒外,客人更會入住Château Beychevelle及與Smith Haut Lafitte相鄰的Les Sources de Caudalie,享受葡萄園中的寧靜悠閑;更會 安排於米芝蓮星級食府Le Chapon Fin和La Grand Vigne中用膳,在品酒 的同時也品嚐星級法式美饌。

The ‘Bordeaux Harvest Tour’ includes accommodation in Château Beychevelle and Les Sources de Caudalie (adjacent to Smith Haut Lafitte), and culinary experiences at Michelin starred restaurants like Le Chapon Fin and La Grand Vigne, offering memories for a lifetime to the real food and wine lovers.

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Bordeaux Harvest Tour with Rebecca Leung Date: 15-21 September, 2013 / 7 days Reservation: 2973 0606 / enquiry@hipholiday.com.hk Hip Holiday Limited // www.hipholiday.com.hk

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A Journey to the Ancient Wine World 遊走古老葡萄酒國度

Text: Eddie Chui Images: Flying Firenze Special Thanks: Flying Firenze, Hepo – Hellenic Foreign Trade Board

Imagine being on an island surrounded by blue skies and clear, bright water, with little white houses sitting alongside the nearby hilltop. You would think about Greece for sure. But when you are drinking crisp refreshing white wines and having a wonderful seafood platter, where would you think of then? Australia? New Zealand or even Burgundy? Why aren’t you reminded of Greece, which is surrounded by thousands of islands? In fact, the Greeks have been making wine since 6,500 years ago, and Greece is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Cru were invited to visit this ancient country for more than a week to explore the new contemporary Greek wines. 在藍天碧海的小島上,一座座靠山而立的小白屋,如此景象大家必定會想起希臘的海岸。但當我們喝著清新怡人 的白葡萄酒,吃著美味新鮮的海上鮮,又會想起那裡呢?澳洲?新西蘭?還是勃艮第呢?又有誰會想起這一片壯 麗,位於地中海的最大島國,希臘呢?其實遠在六千多年前,希臘已經有人釀造葡萄酒,是世界最古老的釀酒文 化之一。我們今次被邀到希臘個多星期,了解希臘葡萄酒新的一頁。

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Origin of Wine The ancient wine culture of Greece can be regarded as the origin

and winemakers, and advances in technology, they are catching up

of all European wine regions. From archaeological studies, ancient

with other regions in the global market in quality instead of quantity

Greeks have been planting vines (Vitis Vinifera) since the Neolithic

or price. The local indigenous grapes are showing their potential

age for making wine. With the expansion of the Greek empire and

and getting more attention from wine lovers.

colonization around Europe, viticulture and wine culture was quickly spread across Europe to many of the modern winemaking regions

葡萄酒之源

including the South of France, Italy, Sicily and Spain, etc., all

這遠古相傳的葡萄酒文化,可以說是整個歐洲葡萄酒文化的源頭。從

throughout the Mediterranean coast. They were also the pioneers of

考古研究所得,古希臘人早在新石器時代便開始種植釀酒葡萄(Vitis

viticulture development, inventing new ways to improve the quality

Vinifera ),透過擴張版圖及殖民到歐洲各地區,更把種植葡萄跟釀酒傳

of wine by studying the soil, lowering the yields and the using

到現今不同的歐洲產酒國如南法、意大利中部,西西尼島,還有西班牙

different cutting and training systems for the vines. It’s no difference

等,環繞著整個地中海兩岸的歐洲大陸,一直擴散開去。他們也是葡萄種

to what we are doing now in vineyards.

植學的先驅,對釀酒葡萄的種植技術有持續的改進,例如土壤的研究,減 少產量以提高品質;葡萄棚及修剪的應用等等,跟現代的種植方法基本沒

Renaissance after the Falling Off

有兩樣。

Why is everyone forgetting this ancient wine empire? During the 400 years that they were ruled by the Turkish Ottoman Empire from 15th to 18th century, the wine industries were highly suppressed by

興衰與復興

high taxes and sometimes even prohibited by the Turks. Many of the

為什麼這麼源遠流長的葡萄酒國度現在卻像被人遺忘了一樣呢?原來在十

vineyards and local varieties were abandoned and disappeared. Only

五世紀到十八世紀初,希臘在土耳奇奧托曼帝國的統治下超過四百年,葡

those on the small islands, on the steep mountain slopes and those

萄酒業備受壓制,重稅加上土耳奇人並不鼓勵釀造或飲用葡萄酒,本土葡

surrounding monasteries were preserved. After the independence

萄品種及釀酒產業幾乎消失,只有小島上、崎嶇的山上及修道院的葡萄園

of Greece, the wine industry was starting up again, but until the

得以保留。直到之後希臘獨立以後,葡萄酒業才再次起步,但直至二十世

twentieth century the focus was on producing high volumes of table

紀,他們主要生產廉價的餐桌酒釀。發展至近十多年,由於新的投資不斷

wine and bulk wine. Until the last 10 years when more capital was

投入,建設現代化的酒莊,加上人材、技術的進步,才能在全球化的葡萄

invested into the industry and many of the wineries upgraded to

酒市場中取得一席位,希望以品質跟其他酒釀競爭。尤其是憑他們的原生

modern standards. With the aid of talented, well-trained oenologists

葡萄品種,展現出應有的潛力。

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Diversifying terroir Greece is mainly made up of the Peloponnese Peninsula in the south

varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red varieties like

of Balkan Sea and islands of the Aegean Sea. The five main areas

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are also typical in this area.

of wine production include: Northern Greece including Macedonia, Eprius and Thrace; Middle Greece including Thessaly, Evia, Viotia

地大物博

and Attica; the Mainland Area surrounding Peloponnese Peninsula;

希臘主要由巴爾幹半島南端的伯羅奔尼撤半島( Peloponnese ),加上

Islands of the Aegean Sea including Santorini, Samos and Lemnos,

愛琴海的多個大小島嶼而成。主要的五個葡萄酒產區分別為:北部地區

etc.; and the biggest island of Crete. Because of the difference in

包括 Macedonia 、 Eprius 及 Thrace ;中部包括 Thessaly 、 Evia 、 Viotia

geographical location and terroir, we have many different styles of

及 Attica ;希臘大陸地區以 Peloponnese 半島為中心;愛琴海島嶼包括

wine being made in Greece. We traveled to all these regions to

Santorini 、 Samos 及 Lemnos 等;還有希臘最大的島嶼 Crete 。由於地理

taste their wines, visiting wineries and talking to the owners and

位置上的差異,各有不同的風土特質,因此也釀造不同風格、不同品種的

winemakers to discover their new directions. Wine is an important

葡萄酒。我們是次出遊參觀了這五個產區的不同酒莊,了解到各產區的葡

aspect in the culinary culture of Greece, complementing many great

萄品種、釀酒風格及最新的走向,當然少不了盡享當地的地道美食佳餚,

foods of the Mediterranean.

不少希臘葡萄酒,都是以佐餐為主,是希臘飲食文化不可缺少的一部份。

“Nebbiolo” of Greece

希臘的 Nebbiolo

In Macedonia in the north, the most seductive local red variety is

在 北 部 的 Macedonia 地 區 , 最 受 注 目 的 原 生 葡 萄 必 定 是 Xinomavro ,

Xinomavro. It is often referred to as the Nebbiolo of Greece because

她被譽為希臘的Nebbiolo,因為她的酸度、單寧高,結構緊緻,

of its high acidity, tannins, and firm structure. It is usually aged in

而且適合在橡木桶中作長時間的陳年,成熟後優雅撲實。當中以由

oak barrels for a long time and will mature beautifully after years in

Naoussa、Amynteo產區釀造的Xinomavro最為出色,那些酒完

bottle too. The most outstanding regions are Naoussa and Amynteo,

成度高,十分適合作長時間瓶內陳年,很希望可以品嚐一下陳年的

creating wines that are more complete and worth aging; do not miss

Xinomavro 會演變成什麼模樣。在偏向大陸性氣候的北部,其實十分適

out on any aged Xinomavro. The Continental climate in the north

合 種 植 多 種 葡 萄 , 除 了 其 他 原 生 的 希 臘 白 葡 萄 如 Assyrtiko 外 , 也 有 不

makes it very suitable for growing vines. And aside from widely

少國際品種如 Sauvignon  Blanc 、 Chardonnay ;紅葡萄如 Caber net

planted Greek grapes like Assyrtiko, there are also international

Sauvignon 、 Merlot 、 Syrah 等都非常普遍。

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White grapes on the beautiful ranges In the middle region of Greece, they used to produce high volume of

wines made with Mavrodaphne. We also tasted many sweet wines

table wine and bulk wine from the hot lowland area. Now wineries are

and fortified wines made with Muscat of Patras and Muscat of Rio

starting to grow vines in higher altitudes on the mountain slopes and

of Patras.

plains. Some have started to plant at the foot of Mount Olympus and Atalanti Valley with different approaches: Introducing popular Greek

美麗山脈上的白葡萄

varieties from other regions like Assyrtiko and Malagouisa, planting

在希臘的中部,改革派的酒莊一改以往只以產量為前題的生產模式,放

international varieties, or replanting some really local indigenous

棄在炎熱平坦的平原釀造平凡的餐酒,改往山區附近種植,如奧林匹斯

grapes like Limniona in the Thessaly region, Mavrokoundoura in the

山的山腳、 Atalanti Valley 等,以不同的方式重建葡萄酒產業:例如從其

Evia region and Mouhtaro in the Viotia region. These new wineries

他地方引入希臘本土品種如 Assyrtiko 及 Malagousia ;或種植國際品種;

can make great wines. Attica, which used to be an important area

也有人重新栽種被遺忘的本土葡萄如 Thessaly 區的 Limniona , Evia 區的

of viticulture, does not have a very outstanding terroir, but it is near

Mavrokoundoura 或 Viotia 區的 Mouhtaro 。這些新一代的酒莊釀造出很

the main city of Athens.

不錯的白葡萄酒。從前最重要的產區 Attica 卻沒有以往興旺,雖然鄰近雅 典,但本身的風土並不特別優秀,加上城市化使不少優秀的酒莊都會選擇

Top Quality Wine Region

其他地區。

The Peploponnese Peninsula is an important modern Greek wine region. The top quality white wine regions and main red regions

頂尖派系的重鎮

are all located in this area. In the middle we have the hilly Mantinia,

Peploponnese 半島是現代希臘葡萄酒的重要區域。頂級的白葡萄酒區及

with a high altitude and cool climate character. The main variety

最大的單一紅葡萄酒區都集中於此。在半島中央的 Mantinia 位於多山的高

is Moschofilero, a Gewurztraminer-like pink skinned variety. It is

原地帶,氣候較清涼,主要種植 Moschofilero ,是種像 Gewurztraminer

used to produce a noble and elegant aromatic white wine that has

的粉紅皮葡萄,用來釀造芳香的白葡萄酒,帶強烈的花香、陣陣的柑橘

intense floral notes, with a touch of citrus and high acidity. At the

果香,加上高酸度,是款高貴優雅的白葡萄酒。而在東北面的Nemea

northeast of the peninsula, we have Nemea that is renowned for

則以釀造紅葡萄酒為主,採用一款非常迷人的Agiorgitiko本地原生葡

the reds it produces. The local variety used is mainly Agiorgitiko.

萄,她能釀造出平易近人的葡萄酒,酒體較輕盈,果香濃郁而且可以憑

It is a light red variety that has a pleasant fruity character and can

不同風格展現出不同的魅力,輕輕的橡木陳釀也可使酒體更結實有趣。

be made to different styles. It is also suitable for light oak aging to

在半島的北方,有另一個葡萄酒重鎮 Patras ,生產出色的甜酒,包括以

give it a finer structure. In the north of the peninsula, Patras is an

Mavrodaphne 釀造的紅葡萄甜酒,及以 Muscat of Patras 及 Muscat of

important region in the north for sweet wines, including red sweet

Rio of Patras 釀造的天然或加烈甜酒。

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Romantic Aegean Sea Flying from Athens, we arrived at the famous Santorini Island. Besides the beautiful view, we had some great Assyrtiko wines, a local indigenous white grape. The volcanic soil creates a unique terroir and since they were immune to Phylloxera, there are many old vines of 50 to 100 years old. They have a very special training system that isn’t on the wire, but rather inside a basket, so that the vines will grow inside it and the canopy will protect the grapes from the strong sunshine. This has been a traditional technique

浪漫的愛琴海

developed over hundreds of years. Assyrtiko can be made into dry

從 雅 典 飛 往 Santorini 島 , 是 在 愛 琴 海 眾 多 島 嶼 當 中 , 最 出 名 的 , 除 了

white wine, and the crispiness is the best companion for seafood.

美 麗 的 風 景 , 還 有 著 名 的 本 土 原 生 葡 萄 Assyrtiko 。 由 火 山 岩 而 成 的 土

It can also be dried to make the Greek version of Vin Santo. These

壤是獨一無異的,也是世界上現存最古老的葡萄園之一,而且由於不受

sweet wines can be aged for a long time before release for greater

Phylloxera 蟲害的影響,有不少 50 至 100 年的老葡萄藤健在。最特別的是

maturity and delicacy. Besides Santorini, other islands like Samos,

她們是在環形的籃筐上生長,繞成環狀,讓樹葉保護著葡萄免受猛烈的陽

Lemnos, and Rhode also make sweet wine with different varieties

光侵害,也是傳統留下來的經驗。 Assyrtiko 可釀成不帶甜的乾白酒,清

of Muscat. There are regulations for those to make a natural sweet

爽的口感是海鮮的最佳配搭。同時也可以經曬乾再釀成希臘的 Vin Santo

wine or a fortified one.

甜酒。這些酒可再陳釀至幾十年,成為濃稠豐腴的甜酒。除了 Santorini ,

Crete is the largest island in Greece, and also produces different

酒,有天然的、也有加烈的,當然也有釀造上的規定。

其他島嶼如 Samos 、 Lemnos 及 Rhode 都有以不同 Muscat 品種釀造的甜

kinds of wines. Although it is located at the southernmost part of the Aegean Sea, the mountain on the island provides a good

Crete 是希臘最大的島嶼,也有生產不同的葡萄酒。雖然位處最南方,但

natural barrier for the vineyards at the north-facing slope. Besides

在島上高海拔地的向北斜坡,也有適合種植葡萄的田園,因高地把來自南

local varieties like Vilana, Liatiko and Kotsifali, some Bordeaux and

面非洲的熱風阻隔著。除了原生的品種如 Vilana 、 Liatiko 、 Kotsifali 外,

Rhône varieties can also be found here.

也有一些波爾多及 Rhône Valley 的品種被移植至此。

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Absolute Gourmet

美食天堂

You cannot miss out on the great seafood and Mediterranean cuisine in

希臘絕對是一個美食天堂,各種海鮮,地中海式的烹調方式,配上當地的

Greece. The wines match perfectly with these gourmet delicacies. Local

葡萄酒,成為豐富美味的回憶。跟當地人交談,他們大多喜愛清淡型的葡

people prefer light bodied and refreshing wines, even for the red ones.

萄酒,就算紅葡萄酒也不例外,因此傳統的葡萄風格都是以釀造配合當地

Therefore the traditional wine style here is more for food instead of enjoying

食物為前題的酒釀。不得不同意,有好幾款在單獨喝用時覺得十分普通的

alone. We cannot agree more that when we are having a light average

酒款,用餐時佐以食物時卻給人不一樣的感覺。另外一系列的甜酒,當

wine during the tasting, it would go very well with lunch or dinner. Ladies

然能成為不少女士為之心動的酒釀,這些女性向的酒款絕對能在亞洲地區

should not miss those sweet wines too; we believe these wines can find

有一番作為。喜歡濃厚酒風的朋友也不用失望,新派酒款將會是你的那杯

their market in Asia. For those who like full-bodied wines, we have modern

酒,可多留意以 Xinomavro 或其他國際品種,以橡木桶陳釀的頂級酒款,

styled Xinomavro and other international varieties that are crafted into top

她們可能讓你重拾對希臘酒的興趣。

029

wines by maturing in barrels. Indigenous Varieties

原生葡萄品種

After the whole journey, we understand the Greek wine culture, history

經過整個旅程,除了了解到更多關於希臘葡萄酒的文化、歷史及最新發展

and the latest developments in the industry. We also tasted many of the

之外,更可以親身品嚐這些在本港難得一見的葡萄品種。當然消費者面

varieties that are seldom tasted. Of course exploring familiar international

對著較熟悉的國際品種自然會顯得輕鬆,但其實當地的原生葡萄可能更有

grapes will be easier to understand, but local indigenous grapes are also

趣,也絕對有機會是美味可口,例如我們嚐到不少清新芳香的 Assyrtiko

very interesting. We had some refreshing and aromatic Assyrtiko whites,

白葡萄酒,或紅葡萄酒當中的 Agiorgitiko 及 Xinomavro 。這些原生葡萄在

and reds like Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro. With careful handling and talented

悉心種植後,都能釀成具實力的葡萄酒,假以時日,絕對能在國際葡萄酒

winemakers of the new generation, great wines will soon be able to

壇中佔一席位。有機會不妨試一下這些來自歐洲最古老的葡萄酒。

challenge other top wines of the world. Take some time to explore these ancient wines.

Wineries Visited 所參觀的酒莊: J. Boutari Winery Kiryianni Estate Domaine Gerovassiliou

www.boutari.gr www.kiryianni.gr www.gerovassiliou.gr

Palivos Estate Domaine Skouras Domaine Tselepos Domain Spiropoulos

www.palivos.gr www.skouras.gr www.tselepos.gr www.domainspiropoulos.com

Gavalas Winery Domaine Sigalas Argyros Estate Winery

www.gavalaswines.gr www.domaine-sigalas.com www.estate-argyros.com

More Information 更多資料: www.newwinesofgreece.com

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Wine

of the Ages

讓歲月釀成醇酒 English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo Images: Alvin Luk // Special Thanks: Hip Cellar

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Map of greece

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033

If one accustomed to the manicured vineyards of Napa Valley or

習慣了納帕谷或者波爾多那些修剪得整整齊齊的葡萄園,踏入希

Bordeaux were to venture into a vineyard in Santorini, Greece,

臘聖托里尼島上的葡萄園,你可能會被那景象嚇一大跳,驚訝一

quite possibly they would find themselves wondering if wines could

片葡萄園竟會是這樣的。與一般井井有條的現代化酒莊不同,這

really come the land. As opposed to the immaculate symmetry of

些座落在巍峨峭壁上的的古老園區中,葡萄藤年年月月被烈風呼

a modern winery, the vines in these ancient vineyards are battered

呼地吹著、被烈日煎熬著。在聖托里尼島上的葡萄園大都是狂亂

by harsh winds, tempered by infrequent rainfall, and perched

不羈的,而葡萄藤卻又會被葡萄農費煞苦心地盤成一圈圈,隨著

perilously on craggy cliffs. Vineyards on Santorini are by and large

時日過去,它也就跟著盤蜷著生長,形成一個天然的帳蓬,為果

unkempt and overgrown, and the vines are painstakingly trained

實遮陰擋風。

to grow into circles. With age, they keep on spiralling, creating a natural shelter for the grape leaves against the heat and wind.

為了更有效地吸收養份,這些葡萄樹根都會深入火山灰土的深 處,令酒質帶有異常的集中力和深沉的味感。這裡的白葡萄酒都

In search of nutrients, the vine roots will dig deep into the volcanic

充滿礦物和一點點鹽澀味道,美味而且複雜,但話說回來有多少

soil, giving these wines an intense concentration and depth

香港人曾真正地品嚐過聖托里尼島風味的葡萄酒?除非他們曾親

of flavour. The white wines grown here are mineral and saline,

身探訪這些小島罷。一般來自智利的 Sauvignon Blanc在城中顯然

delicious and complex—but most likely a regular Hong Kong wine

地更加普及,可是卻同時缺少了一點點的趣味。

lover would never have tried a glass of Santorini wine unless they have visited those white isles themselves. Generic Sauvignon

此話何解?說到底希臘也是西方文化的誕生地,文化歷史的背景

Blanc from Chile for is far more prevalent, albeit far less interesting.

深遠,地中海美饌更是無人不知。在希臘,釀酒是古老的傳統, 在悠久的歷史和一些著名的文學作品如 Homer著的《 The Illiad》

And why is this? After all, Greece has been said to be the birthplace

中也記錄了葡萄酒在希臘的地位。我第一次知道「 wine」這個詞

of Western civilization, and the culture is rich with delicious

也是來自小時候讀過的希臘神話之中,英雄人物如尤里西斯和海

Mediterranean cuisine.

克力斯,他們就是沐浴於橄欖油中、或者享受著公主溫柔的按摩

Winemaking in Greece is an ancient

tradition, and has been recorded in some of history’s oldest and

等,都是同時喝著希臘葡萄美酒的。

most prestigious works of literature like Homer’s The Illiad. The first time I heard the word ‘wine’ was in the books of Greek mythology

但當提到像 Xinomavro 、 Assyrtiko 和 Agiorgitiko 等葡萄品種,要

that I read as a child, where heroes like Odysseus or Hercules

世界其他角落的人都能記住它們也實在太困難了,幾年前希臘加

celebrated their conquests and athletic victories by being bathed

入了歐盟後發展出的一套現代分類制表便恰好解決了這個疑難。

in olive oil, massaged by tanned princesses, and drinking glorious

我們可以知道來自 Macedonia的 Naoussa是屬於希臘北部的 PDO

Greek wine.

(原產地保護名稱),而紅葡萄品種 Xinomavro亦是在那裡茁莊

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One of the best things about Greece’s wine culture is that

成 長 ; 還 有 就 是 來 自 聖 托 里 尼 島 的 白 葡 萄 品 種 Assyrtiko 、 以 及

international varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah don’t dominate

Peloponnesus地區的 Moschofilero品種。

the market, and if they are used, most commonly their role is to support the indigenous local grape varieties. There is no where

國際葡萄品種在希臘葡萄酒文化中並不佔著主導的地位,相反,

else in the world where some of these fantastic varietals are

好像 Chardonnay和 Syrah等在希臘酒中擔當的卻只是配角,襯托

grown, and in Hong Kong we have the great fortune of having

著希臘原生品種。在世上沒有任何一處能與希臘相比,這裡種植

many of Greece’s best producers shipped to these shores.

著的都是古老的歷史,在今日的香港,我們有機會品嚐一下來自

Though Greece is undoubtedly an old country, its modern wine

這文明古國的優質葡萄酒。雖然希臘無疑地是一個傳統的古國,

industry is just entering maturity, with the wines starting to show

但這裡的現代化酒業卻還在慢慢地熟成之中。

greater refinement.

Scoring system 100 point system / 100分系統 points awarded

year of tasting

best potential year to taste

得分

品評年份

最佳飲用年份

88 2012

2020A

D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用,但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用

Panel Tasting_Greek wines.indd 4

96-100

Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒,各方面達到最高水準,讓人再三回味。

90-95

Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring

85-89

Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir

80-84

Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.

70-79

Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.

60-69

Dull or flat wine without character

50-59

Faulty or unacceptable wine

出眾的酒,各方面表現出色,鮮明具吸引力 。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並,但表現並不突出。 簡單,直接的酒,但未能突個性。 不對眼,沒有個性,沉悶的酒。 有問題,不能接受的酒

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035

Tasters

From Left:Houghton Lee, Roland Muksch, Aka Ng, Wallace Lo, Mabel Lai, Roy Khoo, Eric Wong, Ian Symonds, Ace Lee

Guest Tasters Ace Lee Worked in the F&B industry for over 10 years, Ace got the Sommelier qualification since 2006 in Hong Kong Sommelier Association, and WSET Advance Certificate in 2011. Now I’m working in Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers as a Hotel Sommelier. 擁有超過十年飲食業界經驗,Ace在2006年獲得香港品酒師協會認可之品酒師資格,在2011年取得WSET進階證書,現於香港喜 來登酒店任職品酒師。

Aka Ng Aka has worked in the F&B industry for 10 years, she has been working in The Central Wine Club and Hutong, now working in Hip Cellar as Assistant Sommelier. She is also a member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Aka於飲食業界擁有超過十年經驗,曾於The Central Wine Club及胡同任職,現為Hip Cellar的助理品酒師。Aka亦是香港品酒師 協會會員之一。

Eric Wong 黃雅歷 Eric is an experienced food critic and consultant who has been featured on television and radio programs for years. He has also written many food and wine articles in magazines and newspapers, and was honoured by the China Hotel Association for being an exceptional Chinse wine critic and gourmet. 資深食評人及飲食顧問,先後於電視台、電台主持飲食節目及為報章雜誌撰稿,出版過多本美食與美酒的單行本。獲中國飯店協 會頒予「中國酒評家」榮譽專銜, 是香港知名的美食家、酒評家、作家。

Roland Muksch In his professional life Roland Muksch is a Senior Private Banker, but his passion has always been with wine. He is a wine collector and active in many Hong Kong wine circles and serves as the Vice-Chairman of the Hong Kong Wine Society and the Deputy Consul General of the Ordre de Coteaux de Champagne. Roland Muksch是一位私人銀行家,亦是一位愛酒之人。活躍於香港酒界,收藏各地佳釀,同時為香港品酒會副主席及Ordre de Coteaux de Champagne副總領事。

Roy Khoo Roy is a Sommelier of a french wine bar .He also is a wine writer of MRRM and Wine Mag in mainland China.Roy travels frequently to wine countries and had spent two month to visit numerous wineries of eastern Europe.He is keen on organising wine event with wine lover. Roy身兼酒業顧問、品酒師及葡萄酒專欄作家,同時在法國人開設的紅酒吧任品酒師。曾經用二個月時間暢遊歐洲十多個產酒 國,體會不同民族釀酒的文化,亦熱衷舉辦不同形式的活動與葡萄酒愛好者分享心得。

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Red_ Cavino Nemea Reserve 2oo7 90 2013

2016D

Region: Nemea // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.cavino.gr

1 TOP

Cavino was founded in 1958 and is Greece’s largest winery, producing both entrylevel and premium wines. Nemea Reserve is sourced from some of the best small vineyards at 400-600 meters. Cavino 創自 1958 年,是希臘最大型的酒莊,生產入門級別以至高端酒款。 Nemea Reserve的葡萄都採收自400至600米的葡萄園中。

Ian Symonds

A bright, clear, medium ruby wine. The nose is of red flowers and soft ripe red fruits with a candy edge. On the palate it is dry with low tannins but a lovely red fruit, toffee, banana character. A delightful finish of candy flavours. 明亮清晰,中等紅寶石顏色。帶紅色的花朵和成熟的紅果與糖果 香味。口感上單寧輕柔,但帶可愛的紅果、拖肥和香蕉味道,收 結帶糖果口味。

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Domaine Sigalas is an internationally awarded winery based in Santorini that was founded in 1991 and continues to innovate year after year. They’ve taken Greece’s indigenous grapes to new levels. 位於聖托里尼島的Domaine Sigalas創立於1991年,曾獲國際獎項,一直致力釀造優質 的原生希臘葡萄酒款。

Houghton Lee Ruby-purple colour. On the nose there is an elegant aroma of red cherries, stone, mineral, and some dried vegetables. On the palate there are notes of tomato and red fruit. A long finish, medium-plus tannins with a velvety texture. 紅寶石紫色。帶優雅的紅櫻桃、石頭、礦物和一些乾菜香。口感 上有著番茄和紅果氣息。餘韻悠長,中至高度單寧,天鵝絨般的 質感。

2 TOP

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Domaine Sigalas Mavrotragano 2o11 88 2013

2018A

Region: Santorini // Grape Variety: Mavrotragano (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.sigalas-wine.com

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3

Olympos Hellas Winery Haggipavlu 2oo6 88 2013

2020A

Region: Nemea // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko Winepatio // 2357 4668 // www.etkowines.com

$220

TOP

Olympos Hellas Winery is a premium Greek winery from Peloponnese that produces accessible modern wines from traditional varieties. Olympos Hellas Winery是位於Peloponnese區域的一所優質希臘酒莊,以傳統葡萄品種 釀製現代化的葡萄酒款。

Roland Muksch

Medium ruby, elegant aromas of new oak which dominate the fine fruit aromas of raspberry, black berry, and forest fruit. Very well balanced palate, fine ripe tannins and long length. 中等紅寶石色,果香主導,有覆盆子、黑漿果和其他森林果 實,以及優雅的新橡木香。平衡的口感,精緻的成熟度、單寧 及長度。

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$130

KirYanni Dyo Elies 2oo9 88 2013

2016A

Region: Naousa // Grape Variety: Syrah, Merlot, Xinomavro Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.kiryianni.gr

Houghton Lee Bright ruby colour. Red cherry, oak, and nutmeg spices. Integrated bouquet on the palate. Good complexity, structure, and a medium length. 明亮的紅寶石色。帶紅櫻桃、橡木和荳蔻香料味。集合了花朵的香氣,良好的複 雜性與結構,中等長度。

$175

Pavlidis Thema red 2oo9 88 2013

2016A

Region: Macedonia // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko, Syrah Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

Ian Symonds A clear, deep, ruby wine. On the nose there are spice, herbs, and oak notes with some underlying black fruits. The palate is dry, mediumbodied, and the fruit becomes more apparent. Medium tannins and a strong spicy oak finish. 清晰而深刻,紅寶石色。帶香料、香草和一些潛在的黑果和橡木香。口感乾 爽,中等濃度,果香更加明顯。中等單寧和強烈的辛辣橡木味道作結。

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Avantis Estate Syrah 2oo9 87 2013

2016A

Region: Evia // Grape Variety: Syrah (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.avantisestate.gr

Roland Muksch

Medium purple colour. Bright and clear. Aromas of sour cherries, blackcurrant, undergrowth, and some herbaciousness. On the palate it is slightly sweet but also astringent and it has unripe tannins. Not very well balanced. 中等紫色、明亮清晰。有著酸櫻桃、黑醋栗,以及一點香草般的香氣。稍 甜,亦帶些澀味,未成熟的單寧、平衡度稍遜。

Domaine Spiropoulos Nemea 2oo9 87 2013

2018D

Region: Nemea // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.domainespiropoulos.com

Eric Wong Beautiful colour and purity. The aroma is intense, powerful, and has some earthiness and green notes. On the palate it is decently balanced with good structure. Will improve when paired with food. 美麗的顏色和純度。強烈的香氣,並帶些質樸和大地的氣息。具有良好的結構 平衡,搭配食物應會使這款酒表現得更好。

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$139

Agiorgitiko by Gaia 2oo9 87 2013

2018A

Region: Nemea // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko Globus Wine Company // www.gaia-wines.gr

Wallace Lo

Ruby red with hints of violet. The nose is soft, round, and perfumed with fruits like plums and black currant. Ripe with a touch of milk chocolate, vanilla, and licorice. On the palate there are sweet strawberries, a fresh acidity, and ripe deep tannins. Not a wine for long aging, but great to drink with dinner. 寶石紅與紫羅蘭的顏色。柔軟圓潤的香氣,帶李子和黑醋栗等果香。成熟、帶 淡淡的牛奶朱古力、雲呢拿和甘草。味感上帶有甜草莓,新鮮的酸度和成熟的 丹寧。不太適合長期陳年,作為佐餐酒則不錯。

$156

Lantides Estate “G. Gold” 2oo8 86 2013

2016D

Region: Nemea // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko Everwise Wine Limited // 3106 2345 // www.lantides.gr

Ian Symonds

A bright, clear, medium ruby wine. The fruit aromas are of black fruit, plum, cherry, and currants. There is a hint of licorice and brown spices. On the palate it is dry, light-bodied yet has firm, grippy tannins. The finish is medium, leaving fruit and spice flavours. 明亮清晰,中等紅寶石色。帶黑色水果、李子、櫻桃和葡萄乾等水果香 味。有一種淡淡的甘草和棕色香料香。乾身,酒體輕盈,亦帶緊密的單 寧。中度收結帶水果和香料香。

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Domaine Porto Carras Syrah 2oo6 86 2013

2016D

Region: Macedonia // Grape Variety: Syrah (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.portocarras.com

Aka Ng Deep ruby colour, cherries, raspberries, and some herbs. Soft tannins and a medium-body with a medium finish. 深紅寶石色;有櫻桃、覆盆子和一些香草。柔和的單寧,中度酒體與回味。

Tsantali Metoxi X Rouge 2oo6 86 2013

2016D

$456

Region: Agioritikos // Xinomavro, Limnio, Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Wine Cellar // 2611 1013 // www.tsantali.gr

Mabel Lai A bright, clear, ruby wine. On the nose it is marked by stewed fruits with a dusty character. The palate is dry with a crispy acidity, sour red fruits, and quite a short finish with a slightly bitter twist. 明亮清晰,紅寶石色。帶有明顯的燉煮水果氣息、一點點渾濁。口感酸爽,酸酸的紅 果,相當短的長度,微苦。

$295

KirYanni Diaprons 2oo8 86 2014

2023K

Region: Imathia // Xinomavro 87%, Syrah 13% Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.kiryianni.gr

Aka Ng Ruby colour, with black currant, plum, and some herbs on the nose. Lots of black fruit on the palate, nice acidity; high tannins, could be kept for several years. 紅寶石色,帶黑醋栗、李子和一些香草。大量的黑色水果,漂亮的酸度,單寧高,可陳 年多數年。

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Alexakis Winery Syrah Kotsifali 2oo9 85 2014

2025K

Region: Crete // 40% Syrah, 60% Kotsifali (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.alexakis-wines.com

Ace Lee Dark ruby colour. Smoky sausage-like aroma, with grilled green peppers, black fruits, and flavours like chocolate and coffee. Intense flavours with harsh tannins, good balance, and good acidity. 深紅寶石色。帶煙燻香腸香氣、烤青椒、黑色水果、朱古力和咖啡等香味。強烈 的味道與尖銳的單寧,平衡不錯,酸度良好。

Tsilili Wines Kthma Theopetra Red 2o1o (Limniona) 85 2013

2016D

Region: Meteora // Grape Variety: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Limniona (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.tsilitis.gr

Roland Muksch Pale ruby, pure aromas of new oak and sweet spices which overpower the fruit flavours of red and black currants and raspberries. Well balanced on the palate with fine tannins and a good length. The alcohol is well integrated. 淡淡的紅寶石色,帶新橡木、紅色和黑色的葡萄乾、樹莓的水果風味以及甜香料香味。細緻 的單寧口感和良好的長度,以及很好的平衡。酒精度適中。

Brintzikis Wines Brintzikis Augoustiatis 2oo9 83 2013

2015D

Region: Ilia // Grape Variety: Augoustiatis (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.brintzikis.com

Wallace Lo

A bright ruby colour. The nose is aggressive, powerful, with powerful fruits like strawberries seasoned with tar, burnt rubber, toasted wood, and coffee. But on the palate it is fresh, young, and seductive with notes of anise and tobacco. Light-bodied and alcoholic. 明亮的紅寶石色。帶積極強烈的香氣。具有如草莓般的強烈果香,焦油,燒焦橡膠、 烤木和咖啡氣味。但在口感上它卻是新鮮、年輕的,帶誘人的茴香和煙草氣息。酒精 度和酒體都偏向輕柔。

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Wh_ ite

Robola Cooperative Robola Cephalonia San Gerassimo 2o12 89 2013

2015D

Region: Cephalonia // Grape Variety: Ribolla Gialla (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.robola.gr

1 TOP

The Cephalonia Robola Wine Cooperative was established in 1982 and produces excellent wines from local varietals. It produces 85% of the Robola grapes in Greece. Cephalonia Robola 葡萄酒合作社由1982 年創立,致力發展原生品種釀酒業,其生產的 Robola品種葡萄酒已佔整個希臘葡萄酒市場的85%。

Roland Muksch

Pale lemon colour. Medium-intensity aromas of lemon, flint, smoke, and some hints of tropical fruits. On the palate there are flavours of grapefruit, minerals, and ripe stone fruit. Good balance, dry finish, and good length. 淡檸檬色。中等強度香氣,帶檸檬、火石、煙燻和熱帶水果氣 息。口感上帶西柚、礦物和核果般的成熟果香。良好的平衡和長 度、收結乾爽。

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$168

Gaia has two wineries in Santorini and Nemea and produces some of the finest wines in Greece. Their wines lean towards the boutique side of production, and are almost all composed of indigenous varietals. Gaia 在聖托里尼島和 Nemea 各自擁有一座酒莊,生產著優秀的希臘酒款。偏向精品酒 款,而且大多為本土原生品種所釀製。

Eric Wong Deep yellow colour with a muted, but almost funky aroma. The notes are almost vegetal, but the taste fares much better. Good complexity, surprising depth, and good balance. 深黃色,近乎質樸的香氣。幾乎全是植物般的草香味,口感卻良 好得多,非常複雜、驚人的深度,以及良好的平衡。

2 TOP

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Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment 2o11 88 2013

2015D

Region: Santorini // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko Globus Wine Company // www.gaia-wines.gr

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Pavlidis Thema White 2o11 87 2013

2015A

Region: Macedonia // Grape Variety: Sauvignon Blanc, Assyrtiko Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

$177

3 TOP

Pavlidis Estate was founded in 1998 and is situated in the region of Drama in Northern Greece. Native and local grapes are grown here and usually blended for balance and accessibility. Pavlidis Estate於1998年創立,座落於希臘北部的Drama地區中。這裡種植的原生葡萄 品種大多會用作混釀,令酒質更平衡細緻。

Mabel Lai

Pale gold colour. Showing some citrus notes such as lime and lemon. Very fresh notes complemented by butter, nutmeg, and almond. Lingering finish with lots of minerals, obvious acidity, and oak influence. 淡金色,帶一些柑橘、青檸和檸檬香。新鮮的牛油、肉荳蔻和 杏仁氣味。餘味悠長,帶大量礦物味和明顯的酸度,以及橡木 影響下的味道。

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$336

Tsantali Metoxi X Blanc 2oo9 86 2013

2014D

Region: Agioritikos // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko, Athiri, Sauvignon Blanc Grand Wine Cellar // 2611 1013 // www.tsantali.gr

Eric Wong

Slight bottle age has given this wine greater complexity, but it should be consumed soon. Full-bodied but with a short finish, there was a touch of sourness as the wine opened up. Not the most balanced wine, but I enjoyed it. Serve well chilled. 輕微的瓶內陳年為這酒帶來偉大的複雜性,但應該很快會被消耗掉。酒體飽滿, 收結短,開酒之初帶有淡淡的酸味。這不是最平衡的酒,但我很喜歡它,冰鎮過 後飲用為佳。

$130

Sigalas Santorini Barrel 2o1o 86 2013

2015D

Region: Santorini // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.sigalas-wine.com

Roy Khoo Subtle nose of quince and grapefruit, followed by minerals and oak. Medium-bodied and crisp. Good finish with minerals and grapefruit. 木瓜和葡萄柚般微妙的香氣,其次是礦物和橡木味道。中度酒體,簡潔明快、 清爽。收結帶礦物和西柚香。

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$525

T-Oinos Asyrthico 2o1o 85 2013

2016A

Region: Crete // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko Wine Culture Ltd. // 2810 1186

Ace Lee

Pale green yellow. At first the nose is slightly salty with some floral notes, sweet spices, and mint. On the palate there is a harmonious structure of dry yellow fruits and good ripeness. Lower acidity, but still dry and mineral. 淡綠黃色。起初氣味是略帶鹹味及一些花香、甜香料和薄荷。味感上帶些 枯黃色的水果味和良好的成熟度,結構和諧。酸度較低,但仍然乾身和有 著礦物氣息。

Domaine Kechri Pine’s Year 2o12 (Ρετσίνα) 82 2013

2015D

Region: Thessaloniki // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.kechris.gr

Ace Lee

Golden yellow and clean. Intense notes of herbal oil, sage, mint, and hints of pineapple and mango. Dried apple, pineapple, mango, and herbs on the mouth. Balanced with an aggressive acidity and fruits, but also a mineral finish. 金黃色,清澈的酒液。強烈的草本油、鼠尾草、薄荷、菠蘿和芒果般的氣 息;乾蘋果、菠蘿、芒果和香草的味道。平衡之餘亦有著尖銳的酸度和果 香,也有相當的礦物味。

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t e e w S ose Parparoussis Wines Muscat of Rio Patras 2oo6 & R_ 2030A 92 2013

049

Region: Patras // Grape Variety: Muscat (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.parparoussis.com

Houghton Lee Deep amber colour with an intense aroma of caramel, sweet candy, and honey notes. Fresh and smooth texture of pleasant and balanced sweetness. 深琥珀色,帶濃烈的焦糖香氣,糖果和蜂蜜氣息。新鮮柔軟,愉快而平衡。

Sigalas Vin Santo 2oo4

$432

90 2013

2060K

Region: Santorini // Grape Variety: Assyrtiko Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.sigalas-wine.com

Ace Lee

Golden brown colour. Dry apricots, honey, maple syrup, and very ripe mangoes on the nose and palate. Has a wonderful harmonious acidity and sweetness, with good tension and concentration. Long finish, and can probably age for decades. 金棕色。乾杏桃、蜂蜜、楓糖漿和非常成熟的芒果的香氣與味道。帶美好而和諧的酸度與甜 度,具有良好的張力和濃度。收結悠長,或許可以陳年幾十年的時間。

Katogi & Strofilia Moonlight Rose 2o11 82 2013

2015D

Region: Peloponnese // Grape Variety: Agiorgitiko (Wine provide by HEPO, Greece) // www.katogi-strifilia.gr

Ian Symonds

Very bright, clear rose wine. An attractive red-pink colour. The wine has no obvious flaws and a red fruit, strawberry aroma. The palate is dry, medium bodied, with red berry flavours and floral notes. A short but pleasant finish. 非常明亮而清晰的玫瑰紅色。相當吸引的粉紅色。沒有明顯的缺點,帶紅色水果、草 莓的香氣。乾身,中等濃郁口感,帶紅色漿果和花香。收結雖短,整體口感不錯。

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Editor’s Choices Eddie Chui: Greek wine is always out of everyones’ radar as they are rarely seen on the market, and their local grape varieties are not easy to understand. In this panel tasting, I am impressed by their whites and sweet wines. Besides some really local specialty like the Retsina, most of the whites wines are crispy and refreshing, and are good choices to go with seafood. Vin Santo is always appealing, but not all wineries could retain good acidity which is crucial. For red wines, the traditional style is not pleasing our panel, but the indigenous grape of Agirogitiko shows their potential with modern winemaking. My choices for the 2 reds are both Agirogitiko from Nemea, which nice fruitiness and intensity, light and fine velvety tannin. 希臘葡萄酒一向予人奇特的感覺,一來他們在市場上比較少見,二來以本土葡萄為主的酒釀當然不易理解。是次品評中, 我對於希臘的白葡萄酒及甜酒有較大的好感,除了個別地道的特別酒釀如Retsina的風味較難接受外,一般的白酒都清爽怡 人,容易入口,是配搭海鮮的好拍擋。甜酒Vin Santo一般也能討好,只是要有清新的酸度,但還不是每間酒莊都能掌握 好。紅葡萄酒方面,以傳統風格為主的酒釀,未必討好,但在現代化的酒莊中,以本土葡萄Agirogitiko顯現出潛力,我選的 兩款紅酒無獨有偶都是來自Nemea地區的Agirogitiko,喜歡她們的果香加上細緻的口感,單寧輕盈而細緻。

White Wine 白葡萄酒: Pavlidis Thema White 2011 Red Wine紅葡萄酒:Cavino Nemea Reserve 2007, Domaine Spiropoulos Nemea 2009 Sweet Wine 甜酒:Parparoussis Wines Muscat of Rio Patras 2006

Joe Lo: The ancient Greeks started making grapes in the 7th century BC, and now have over 600 wineries, although this is tiny compared to the rest of the world’s production. 60% of all Greek wines are white, and the most common can be said to be Assyrtiko, which thrives and originated from the beautiful resort island of Santorini. Here, most of the vines are ungrafted, and this ancient varietal is born from the dry but fertile volcanic soil, which gives the wine a richly mineral and unique flavour. For our panel tasting the top two wine were Assyrtikos from Santorini, which both had a prominent nuttiness. The Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2011 in particular had a strong aroma of roasted peanuts and cashews, while Pavlidis Thema White 2011, which had some Sauvignon Blanc in the blend, had a good mineral taste from the Assyrtiko and a slight stone fruit, sweet, and mineral flavour. 文明古國希臘在公元前七世紀開始已經開始種植葡萄和釀製葡萄酒,共有六百多家酒莊的希臘相比世界其他酒國產量算 少,整體約佔六成多都是白葡萄酒。希臘的白葡萄品種中,最常見的可說是 Assyrtiko,原產於著名的渡假勝地 Santorini 島。這裡的 Assyrtiko大多都是沒有經過嫁接的古老品種,生於乾燥而肥沃的火山灰土壤上,礦物豐富,釀出來的酒風味 獨特非常。的確,我們是次品酒會中的 Assyrtiko白酒其中有拼兩款都是來自 Santorini,整體口感較近於堅果味道等果仁 香氣,其中一款使用野生酵母的Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Fermented 2011更有著非常濃郁的烤花生、烤腰果等咸香。另一 款混合了Sauvignon Blanc與Assyrtiko的Pavlidis Thema White 2011則來自希臘較北面的Macedonia地區,在Assyrtiko的 礦物口感之餘,Sauvignon Blanc亦帶出了酒中的核果香氣,輕微的甜度,與礦物的咸香平衡良好。

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Ian Wong : In honesty I expected a little bit more out of many of these Greek wines. Over the last few years I’ve tried some stunningly good Assyrtiko and Xinomavro out of Greece, but many of these wines, while well made, lacked verve and excitement. It seemed that many of these winemakers settled for making a simple “enjoyable” wine, without caring for pushing the limit on what these indigenous grapes could do. But as always there are exceptions. Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment 2011 had a very funky aroma, but I appreciated the extra complexity in the palate from the local yeasts. For reds, I’ve always liked the work of KirYanni, and his Diaprons 2008 is going to be superb when it is mature in 3 or 4 years. At the moment it is too closed and tannic. If possible, look for KirYanni Ramnista, which is 100% Xinomavro and just remarkable. 老實說其實我對這些希臘酒的期望是高的,在過去幾年我也曾品嚐過某些優秀的 Assyrtiko和 Xinomavro,但許多這些希 臘酒雖則好喝,卻缺乏了那麼一點點趣味。就表面看來許多這些釀酒師似乎都很滿足說釀造「好喝」的酒,但卻乏略了 這些原生葡萄的巨大潛力。但凡事總有例外,Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment 2011就有著非當獨特的香氣,而且口感充 滿原生酵母的特色;紅酒方面,我十分欣賞KirYanni的Diaprons 2008,在成熟三至四年左右應會表現不錯,現階段來說 它的單寧仍是有點粗糙。如果可以的話,試著品嚐他們的KirYanni Ramnista,釀造自100%Xinomavro,十分不錯的酒!

Conclusion The white wines of Greece were the first wines from the country to be widely appreciated from the international wineloving community, so it was no surprise that these mineral-focused, saline, and refreshing wines pleased the judges, although it was fantastic to see regions outside of Santorini excelling. Traditional ones such as Pavlidis Thema White 2011 came from Macedonia for example, while we saw Sigalas and Gaia from Santorini step outside the box with barrel fermented and wild yeast Assyrtiko examples. We had a unique Retsina wine from Thessaloniki, which the judges found interesting, but ultimately difficult to accept. For the red wines, many expressed regret that there weren’t more examples of the excellent grape Xinomavro, which produces the finest red wines in the country. Instead, we managed to gather a diverse range of wines that varied greatly from price, grape, and style. Very few of the grapes had international blends, and our top dry red wine, Cavino Nemea Reserve 2007, was 100% Agiorgitiko, showing the promise and appeal of this indigenous varietal. Our highest scoring wine was Parparoussis Wines Muscat of Rio Patras 2006, a deliciously enticing and well-balanced wine, although the Sigalas Vin Santo 2004 is stylistically more unique. Nutty, a touch oxidative and well developed, this wine is something you can’t find anywhere else in the world. 希臘的白酒是最先受到國際間酒迷的接受,所以不難想像它那礦物主導、帶鹽澀和清爽的酒質都能夠令評審們滿 意,然而除此之外,能夠看見聖托里尼島以外的地區跑出也是相當令人興奮的。就好像來自Macedonia的傳統酒款 Pavlidis Thema White 2011、以及來自聖托里尼島的Sigalas和Gaia、那以木桶發酵和使用野生酵母的Assyrtiko酒款。 眾酒款中更有一款非常獨特、來自Thessaloniki的Retsina,令評審們都為之驚訝,非常有趣的一款酒,卻也未必能接 受的一種獨特口味。 紅酒方面,評審們都表示出對Xinomavro品種的仰慕,這個品種釀造的都是名揚世界的獨特酒款,然而我們希望這 次品酒會能夠帶出的,更是從價錢、品種和風格並合的酒。眾酒之中有小部份混合了國際品種,但我們是次的冠軍 酒款—Cavino Nemea Reserve 2007卻是以100% Agiorgitiko釀製,顯示出希臘原生品種的優秀。 所有酒款中最高分的是來自Parparoussis 的Muscat of Rio Patras 2006,一款平衡良好、美味的酒款,而Sigalas Vin Santo 2004則有著另一種獨特之處,帶有相當豐富的果仁香、一絲氧化的氣息,而且已經完全熟成,絕對是世界其 他地方都不能找到的味道。

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il Pollenza 2007

Porpora 2008

PiusIX Mastai 2008

Cosmino 2004

Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver(90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses

Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze (89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation

Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012

Wines In China Evaluation 2011

Duemilavini 4Grappoli

2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli

Angera 2011

Didi 2011

Duende 2010

Brianello 2010

Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012

Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012

Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli

Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk

000_IL POLLENZA.indd 1

Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop

2721 5211

G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST

www.kimberleywineshop.com

96 Boham/ The Wine Shop

2972 7888

G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK

www.96bonham.com.hk

ABC Wines Limited

2380 6883

No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST

www.abcwines.com.hk

2380 6670

G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN

1/3/13 4:14 PM


The World of

Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we present you the innovative Champagnes of Charles-Camille Heidsieck, the gentleman of the region, as well as new developments in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, where Viña Caliterra continues to grow. Lastly, we visit the famous KRUG in their original 19th century village. 每一期《釀‧生活》的The World of Wines,我們都會為你走訪來自世 界各地的酒莊,探索每一瓶葡萄酒、每一位辛勤的釀酒師、每一個成功 品牌背後的故事。今期將為大家介紹勇於創新的紳士Charles-Camille

Heidsieck所成立的Champagne Charles Heidsieck香檳莊、 位於智 利一個新開發、而且極具潛力地區—Colchagua Valley的酒莊Viña

Caliterra,以及探訪源於19世紀的KRUG著名香檳酒莊。

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Two hundred years ago in the 19th century, an adventurer, wayward wanderer, and dreamer named Charles-Camille Heidsieck founded Champagne Charles Heidsieck, one of the first wineries in the region to reach an international audience, at the young age of 29. Through careful vineyard The management, a talented winemaker, and shrewd Gentleman’s business 紳士之選 acumen, his Champagnes enjoyed Choice immense success locally, but that was never enough for Charles. English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Eddie Chui // Images: Alvin Luk

Two hundred years ago in the 19th century, an adventurer, wayward wanderer, and dreamer named Charles-Camille Heidsieck founded Champagne Charles Heidsieck, one of the first wineries in

the region to reach an international audience, at the young age of 29. Through careful vineyard management, a talented winemaker, and shrewd business acumen, his Champagnes enjoyed immense success locally, but that was never enough for Charles. 兩百年前,一位帶著夢想、勇於創新的紳士, Charles-Camille Heidsieck 成立了 Champagne

Charles Heidsieck 香檳莊,也是區內最先將香檳衝出歐洲,帶到全球酒迷的香檳之一,當年他有是二 十九歲。對葡萄園的細心管理,羅致具天份的釀酒師,加上敏銳的生意觸覺,他的香檳在本土大熱,但

Charles 並不只滿足於此。

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19th , and ieck ck, n he ard rewd oyed ver

As a visionary, he actively sought foreign markets like the United States, where he is credited with popularizing Champagne. Armed with nothing more than his high hat, his wooden cane, and several cases of his wine, he boldly ventured deep into dangerous territory even throughout the American Civil War to ensure that his business survived, spreading the gospel of Champagne from the North to the South. And though today Charles Heidsieck Champagne isn’t the most ubiquitous brand, connoisseurs and sommeliers have always looked to Charles Heidsieck for the quality of the wine. Non-vintage Champagnes like Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve are the resulting blend of hundreds of wines, and while many historically excellent wineries have increasingly added young wines to bulk their

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve

overall production (at the cost of diluting their complexity), Charles

別具慧眼的他,把目光放遠至海外的市場例如美國,及後他更被譽為把香

Heidsieck has actually increased the amount of reserve wine in each

檳熱潮帶來的第一人。就算在美國獨立戰爭當中,他仍撐著拐杖,戴著高

bottle of Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve.

帽,帶著他的香檳在戰火中向民眾推廣,不斷把這美妙的氣泡由北至南傳

Last month during the launch party for Champagne Charles

仍深受識酒之人及品酒師的愛戴,因為 Charles Heidsieck 一向是高品質

Heidsieck’s new partnership with local distributor Kedington Wines,

的代表。

播著。即使今日 Charles Heidsieck 香檳不是最流行的大型香檳品牌,她

Ned Goodwin MW, the Charles Heidsieck Asia-Pacific Brand Ambassador, told us that an astounding 40% of the Champagne

最基本的 NV 香檳 Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve 是酒莊的精華所在。

is composed of reserve wines from 14 vineyards, more than any

由過百種基酒調配而成,而當其他老舊的香檳莊為了應付需求而把更多年

other non-vintage Champagne on the market. And in a move we

青單調的基酒添加至配方中, Charles Heidsieck 卻反其道而行,在 Brut

greatly applaud, every single future bottle of Charles Heidsieck Brut

Reserve 中加入更多的陳年基酒( Reserve wine ),為的是提升酒的質

Reserve will have a disgorgement date, which denotes when the

素,而不是量。

bottle of Champagne was bottled. This makes a huge difference for curious wine lovers, as an understated fact about Champagnes is

上月在 Champagne Charles Heidsieck 的新任代理商 Kedington Wines

that they benefit hugely from a little bottle aging.

的發佈會上,亞太區品牌大使 Ned Goodwin MW 向我們表示,現在的

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Brut  Reserve 當中有 40% 的酒是陳年基酒,葡萄來自十四個不同的葡萄 園,在 NV 香檳中十分少見。而且從今開始,每瓶 Charles Heidsieck Brut

Reserve 都會刻上除渣的日期,讓大家分辨不同時間裝瓶上市的酒釀。讓 那些好奇的酒迷,可以明白原來 NV 香檳也可以隨歲月的陳年慢慢轉變。 新的代理及品牌大使只是 Champagne Charles Heidsieck 全新行銷策略 的一部分,在保持著傳統的口味當中,包裝卻來了一次重大的變更。全新 的酒瓶外型更瀟灑清秀,而酒標也更具現代簡約的感覺。 現任的 Charles Heidsieck 釀酒師 Thierry Roset 延續著上一代傳奇藝匠

Régis Camus (現任 Piper-Heidsieck 釀酒師)及 Daniel Thibault 的理 念,把優秀的工藝及對品質的追求帶到旗下各款酒釀。正如所有最頂尖的 釀酒師, Thierry 也在 Charles Heidsieck 工作超過二十年,對於香檳莊的 風格及傳統都非常熟悉。他曾任生產總管、莊園總管及後成為副釀酒師, 對於酒莊每個細節,每個工序都很了解,對於 Charles Heidsieck 的強項 及如何發揮最頂尖都一清二楚。 例如,當 Thierry 成為釀酒師,他毫不猶豫地把 Brut Reserve 當中的基酒 由以前來自 120 塊不同的葡萄園,篩減至 60 塊最好的田園。即使有如此重 大的改變,酒釀仍然保持著備受愛戴的傳統 Charles Heidsieck 風格,而 且顯得更精緻,更純美。

Charles Heidsieck現在共有5款酒釀:Brut  Reserve、Rosé Reserve 、 Brut Millésimé 2000 、 Rosé Millésimé 1999 及 Blanc des Millénaires 1995 。每款酒都贏取了多個獎項,在世界各地的酒評當中

Brand Ambassador Ned Goodwin MW 品牌大使 Ned Goodwin MW

Along with a new distributor and brand ambassador, Charles Heidsieck has been launching an ambitious rebranding as they seek to modernize their appearance without changing the great flavour of the wines. The bottles have all changed to become sleeker and starker, and the labels are now more elegant and minimalist. The current winemaker of Charles Heidsieck is Thierry Roset, who has continued to build upon the legacy achieved by his famed predecessors, Régis Camus (current chef de caves of Piper Heidsieck), and Daniel Thibault. And like the best Champagne winemakers, Thierry Roset has served with Charles Heidsieck for over 20 years, and is imbued with the style and tradition that the house represents. He has served as Director of Production, Director of Oenology, and finally as Deputy Winemaker, so he knows better than anyone exactly what Charles Heidsieck excels at, and how the wines could improve. For example, once Thierry took over, he narrowed the number of vineyards the house used from 120 to 60, choosing to use only the best for the Brut Reserve. Hence the latest wines from Charles Heidsieck are imbued with the classic style that loyal fans will appreciate, only with more refinement and purity. Charles Heidsieck currently has five cuvées: Brut Reserve, Rosé Reserve, Brut Millésimé 2000, Rosé Millésimé 1999, and Blanc des Millénaires 1995. Each of these wines has won multiple awards and constantly score in the

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Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 1995

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都獲得 90 分以上的評價,但並不是因為單純的高分數便能贏得所有人的美 譽。她們備受愛戴是因為每款酒釀都是經過悉心打造的佳釀,最好的例子 便是 Blanc des Millénaires 1995 ,基本上這瓶酒全都是由位於 Côte des

Blancs 特級田: Oger 、 Mesnil-sur-Oger 、 Cramant 及 Avize 的葡萄釀造, 但他們卻加入了名為 Vertus 的一級田,那是由 Daniel Thibault所開發的葡萄 園,擁有獨特的個性,雖然像是把原本屬於特級田白釀白的香檳降格,但 這卻是對完美酒質的追求,結果贏得更多的歡呼聲。就好像一個低調的紳 士,Charles Heidsieck一向是愛酒之人間的一點秘密,隱姓埋名。 就算我們不可以像 Charles-Camille Heidsieck 一樣溫文爾雅,我們仍可 以穿著禮服、戴上高帽、撐著拐杖,一起舉杯盡興。可能「 Charlie 」也從 未想過他的香檳有天會流傳到今日、在遠方彼岸的我們手上,繼續在美麗 的黃昏歡呼著。

high 90’s from every prominent critic in the world, but honestly that isn’t why you should buy them. You should buy them because of the care and attention that goes into each wine; for example, the Blanc des Millénaires 1995 is composed of entirely Grand Cru grapes from Côte des Blancs vineyards: Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant and Avize, with the exception of a single 1er Cru Vertus developed and planted by Daniel Thibault. That is dedication, a sign of true quality from a winery that rarely makes loud proclamations about its Champagne. Just like how a gentleman remains humble, so Charles Heidsieck has always been under-the-radar and a great secret for wine lovers. Charles Heidsieck Rosé Reserve

So though unfortunately we can’t all be as debonair as the late CharlesCamille Heidsieck, we can certainly don a high hat and a mock cane for one evening and enjoying a toast—even “Charlie” couldn’t have possibly

Enquiry: Kedington Wines (Far East) Co. Ltd. // Tel: 2898 9323

fathomed that his Champagne would one day reach our distant shores!

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Famed Chilean Wine 天作之合 Text: Eddie Chui

When we talk about Chilean wines, we think of medium range and good value quality wines. In recent years we have seen many exciting top wines from Chile, like Don Maximiano from Viña Errazuriz and Seña, wines that are demonstrating the beautiful ageing potential of Chilean wines. Many new projects are starting up for top quality wines. Like Viña Caliterra jointly created by the Chadwick family of Errazuriz and Robert Mondavi. 每當提到智利酒,大家都把集中力放在價平質優的方向,其實近年有不少智利酒莊出產頂級葡萄酒,例如

Viña Errazuriz 的Don Maximiano 、Seña 等,都能表現出智利酒的驚人陳年潛力。不少人都在開拓新的 酒莊,新的葡萄園,想發掘出另一寶庫。擁有Viña Errazuriz的Chadwick家族便和Robert Mondavi創辦

Caliterra酒莊。

Potential Region

最具潛力的產區

Viña Caliterra was pioneer in the Colchagua Valley in 1996. It is located

Viña Caliterra早在 1996年便在 Colchagua Valley建立酒莊。四面圍山的莊

in an area protected by mountain ranges with unique Mediterranean

園,有著地中海的氣候,清涼的夜晚,微風中和著太陽的熱力。被認為是繼

climate of cool night as cool breeze is neutralizing the heat of the sunlight.

Maipo、Aconcagua Valley之後另一重要的高質葡萄酒法定產區。而Caliterra

It is regarded as one of the most important D.O. of Chile together with

的主張是在釀造頂級葡萄酒的同時也注意環境,因為只有保護著自然生態,才

Maipo and Aconcagua Valley. The philosophy of Caliterra is to focus on

可孕育出最好的葡萄,在他們的標誌上可以看到在生長莊健的葡萄藤以外,還

making high quality wines while balancing the ecosystem and sustainable

有不同的生態自然環境圍繞著,例如候鳥、不同的昆蟲、動物,其他植物共存

environment. Since they believe that good grapes can only been grew on

在同一個和諧的空間當中。在一千公頃的莊園中,他們只開很當中250公頃的

in a cleaner, balancing communities consisting different life forms. This can

土地,其餘都保持著原有風貌,籍以釀造更美好的酒釀。

be seen in their logo with all kinds of birds, insects and animals surrounding healthy vineyards, all in the same community. In the 1000hectares of land

當 中 較 具 代 表 性 的 有 三 個 系 列 的 葡 萄 酒 。 中 階 的 Tributo 系 列 以 單 一 品

owned by the estate, only 250 hectares are planted while preserving most

種來釀造。表現出各葡萄品種在這葡萄園上所能達到的和諧品味。而

of the natural landscape in order to produce healthy wines.

Edicion  Limitada 限 量 酒 款 , 則 是 釀 酒 師 以 不 同 主 題 , 利 用 不 同 品 種 的 葡萄混釀而成,例如 B 代表 Bordeaux ,以 Cabernet Sauvignon 、 Merlot

Three types of wines have been their main focus including the medium

及 Petit Verdot 等 調 配 出 波 爾 多 風 格 為 題 ; M 則 代 表 Mediterranean , 以

Tributo range that is made from single varieties to reflect their characters.

Syrah、 Rossane、 Pinot Grigio釀造出地中海近似南法的風格。而 A則代表

Edicion Limitada is the limited high end range with 3 different themes. B

Andes,正是代表著南美洲的安第斯山脈上最著名的兩款葡萄,以 Malbec

refers to Bordeaux style, blending with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and

及智利最具代表性的 Carménère 來調配。釀酒師 Rodrigo Zamorano會因應

Petit Verdot; M refers to Mediterranean blends with Syrah, Roussane, and

每年不同年份,調整不同葡萄品種的比例,也會以低產量種植來提升品質

even Pinot Grigio to resemble the Mediterranean coastal style. A refers to

及表現出產地最好的風格。

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Rodrigo Zamorano

Andes, representing a blend that is coming from the 2 major varieties from

vineyards and cellar. His real blending section is not from 3 wines, but from

the South America, Malbec and Carménère, which is the unique variety

hundreds of wines that are of different varieties and from different vineyards

from Chile. Chief Winemaker Rodrigo Zamorano will adjust the blends

in order to make the best Cenit to represent the Colchagua Valley.

according to the performance of different vintages, while looking after small productions for each of these 3 wines in order to reflect in the best way the

而Cenit則代表著酒莊的精心之作,她的名字代表天空上的最高點。以酒莊內

style of the respective origin.

所有不同品種的葡萄調配,用來把每款葡萄最好的一面表現於這款酒當中。以

Cenit is the Icon wine of Caliterra, it means the highest point in the sky. Using

美國及法國橡木桶陳年,釀造出豐厚的酒體,加上香醇的酒香,入口複雜細

the best selection of every grape varieties existing at Caliterra Estate to

緻,帶著如絲絨般的單寧,現已可飲用,但還有很不錯的陳年潛力。

Cabernet Sauvignon及Malbec為主,加上Petit Verdot及Carménère等,在

blend into this prestige cuvée. Centering with the top Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec grapes, complementing with Petit Verdot and Carménère, etc.

較早前 Rodrigo 親身來港讓我們一嚐還未正式裝瓶出售的 Edicion Limitada

It is aged in French oak barrels, resulting in a rounded body, with subtle

及Cenit酒款,先睹為快,來見證新年份酒款的誕生。為了了解Rodrigo身為

fruity flavour, complexity and velvety tannin. It could be enjoyed now or to

釀酒師的工作,他還特別準備了來自 Caliterra 的一些基酒,包括 Cabernet

age in your cellar for many years.

Sauvignon、Syrah及Carménère,讓我們調配出自己的酒釀,挑戰成為一天

Earlier, Rodrigo flew over to Hong Kong to present their new wines of Edicion

求我們就著他所提出的酒香、味道及收結,去調配一款合乎他要求的酒款,這

Limitada and Cenit that are going to be bottled for sale like en primeur. To

也是他作為釀酒師每年最重要的工作。這確實不是一件容易的事,除了要了解

understand the work as a winemaker, he prepares some base wines for us

酒莊的風格外,也要明白年份的特性,還有,不是像我們只從三個樣本中調

to blend our own wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carménère

配,而是過百款不同葡萄園所釀成的基酒中,調配成為心目中的Cenit,酒莊

challenging us to become winemakers for a day. He explained the terroir of

及Colchagua Valley的代表作。

的釀酒師。他先解釋了在Colchagua Valley所出產的這幾款葡萄的特性,再要

Colchagua and the characters of the grapes first, and demanded a blend from us according to his guidelines about the aroma and flavour profile. This is the most important work of a winemaker after a year of hard work in the

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Enquiry: Asia Euro Wines & Spirits (HK) Ltd. // Tel: 3595 0511

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KRUG - 大 將 之 風 -

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Chinese Text & Images: Mabel Lai Translation: Ian Wong

The Winery

酒莊簡介

The famed house of Krug calls the Northeast region of Champagne

Krug 位於巴黎以東香檳區內的 Reims ,這是法國東北地區,天氣清凉,

their home, just east of Paris in Reims. The weather is usually

以大陸性氣候為主,生長在這裏的葡萄通常難以完全成熟,所以香檳區

cooler here than just the Continental Climate that marks most of

的天氣另一個別稱是 Marginal  Climate 。 Krug 的主要產品當然是香檳,

the region, and so is called Marginal Climate. And the main product

他的名字在香檳中極之令人仰慕,在香檳中被譽為「勞斯萊斯」,因

at Krug is of course their Champagne Krug, which is like the Rolls

為他所造的香檳與別不同,質素極高,他那尊貴的品牌亦受到法國巨企

Royce of the region. Almost no other winery is as reverred, admired,

LVMH Group (Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton )垂青,於 1999 年便成

and known as Krug. The wines are distingiushed by their extremely

為集團其下其中—個著名品牌,所以嚴格來說 Krug 已不是一個純家族擁

high quality and their acquisition in 1999 by the LVMH Group (Moët

有的酒莊,雖然如此但卻仍擁有—定的自由度,所以香檳的風格及質素

Hennessy Louis Vuitton), a French global luxury brand. So while

仍可持續。 Krug 自己擁有 19 公頃的莊園,地區分佈包括 Ay , Le  Mesnil

strictly speaking Krug isn’t family owned anymore, the winemakers

及 Trepail ,酒莊另外亦與其他—些有質素的葡萄種植園簽訂長期合約以

are usually given substantial freedom to do what they want. LVMH

確保優質葡萄的長期供應。Krug種植及買回來的全是做香檳的三種葡

has helped Krug reach every corner of the world however, and Krug’s

萄: Chardonnay , Pinot Noir 及 Pinot Meunier 。

own 19 hectares of vineyards across Ay, Le Mesnil, and Trepail help sustain the quality of Krug as they have slowly expanded over the

堅守信念 創造歷史

years. They also purchase a large amount of wine from trusted

Krug的歷史源自19世紀,當時一位來自德國的移民Johann-Joseph Krug在

growers tied to long-term contracts in order to ensure consistancy.

香檳區Jacquesson酒莊工作,在這裡他認識了英藉妻子Anne並於1841年結

Krug as usual use all three Champagne grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot

婚。在1842年10月Joseph毅然離開Jacquesson並與妻子在香檳區Reims定

Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

居,當時 Joseph 憑著自己的經驗立志要創造—隻令人不會忘記高質素的香

Keeping the Faith with History

這便是Krug誕生的過程。Joseph所做的香檳只有2個信念:要出色及不妥協

檳。在1943年Joseph及其妻成立了自己的Champagne House,名為Krug,

Krug’s history began in the 19th century when a young German

(excellent and not compromise to quality),後來他的2個兒子Paul Krug繼承

immigrant called Johann-Joseph Krug met his British wife Anne

父業,堅守父親的信念,為Krug打造為—間響噹噹的香檳屋。現在Krug已是

while working in Jacquesson. They were married in 1841, and in

由第六代傳人Olivier Krug打理。

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1842 Joseph and his wife decided to leave Jacquesson and settle in Reims, where all Joseph knew he wanted to do was continue to make great Champagne. With his experience and skill, he decided to form Krug in 1943, with two ideals: Firsty, to be good, and secondly, to never compromise on his quality. Later on when Paul Krug, one of his two sons, inherited the estate, he carried on the legacy by his father, and they haven’t looked back since. Krug is now in its sixth generation and is run by Olivier Krug. Bold and Innovative Ingenuity

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Joseph Krug always had the ambition necessary to make a difference in

大膽創新 別出心裁

Champagne, and while other Champagne houses were still using stainless

Joseph在建立Krug時已立定志向要做出與別不同的香檳,當其他

steel barrels to ferment, Joseph was already using wood from the Argonne

Champagne House還在用不銹鋼桶發酵時,Joseph已用由來自法國中部及

forest in Central France. Each one was 205 litres for the first fermentation,

Argonne 樹林所做的 205 升小木桶來進行第一次發酵,這可使造出來的基酒

which is made with base wine to increase complexity, although they are

增加複雜度,不過所有都是舊木桶,以免香檳吸取過多木桶的味道,最舊年

all old casks in order to prevent too much oak character being drawn

份的木桶是製造於1969年。此外,所有基酒皆在發酵完畢後與死去的酵母接

into the wine. The oldest cask was manufactured in 1969, and in addition

觸—段時間(ageing on lees)以吸取酵母的香味。Krug所造的香檳完全沒有經

all the base wines have contact with the lees during fermentation. Krug

過Malolactic Fermentation以保持酸度,加上全部含糖量少於10克/l升,所以

Champagnes are made completely without malolactic fermentation in order

屬於辛囗。

to maintain acidity, plus all the sugar is less than 10g/l. Krug其下有不同類型的產品,不同的產品亦有不同的做法: Krug makes several Champagne bottles under different techniques:

Krug Grande Cuvee NV :

Krug Grande Cuvee NV:

這是Krug的house style 香檳,雖然是house style, 但製造卻很認真。它所用

This is the house blend of Krug, and even though it is their basic cuvee, it

的三種香檳葡萄除了是來自 20至25不同的葡萄園外(其中有些更是—級田),

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is still very serious. It uses all three Champagne grapes from 20-25 different vineyards (some of which are classified), and reserve wines from 6 to 10 years are used in the blend (while other houses use reserve wines of only 4 years). AOC laws for NV wines also state a minimum of 15 months of aging on the lees, but Krug wines are aged for at least six years. Krug Rose NV: The Pinot Noir used for this rose are all from Ay, and in fact Paul Krug II’s two sons Henri and Remi were responsible for making a wine of this complexity. Normally rose Champagne had no flavour, but in 1976 they mixed in Pinot Noir with the standard base wine for their wine and then fermented the wine. They didn’t import the wine, but in 1983 his father Paul tasted these Champagnes and was stunned at the charming wild floral notes and the beautiful golden colour of the wine. They began making rose

10

after this point. 他們的reserve

Krug Clos du Mesnil:

wine由6年至10年不等混合出來,而其他香檳屋皆至多會用4

年,另外香檳與酵母授觸的時間亦至少有6年,而法例規定NV是15個月。

This is the flagship of Krug, and it isn’t made every year. In addition to being a vintage Champagne, it is also a Blanc de Blanc, meaning it is

Krug Rose NV :

only made from Chardonnay. Adding on that, it is also made purely from

玫瑰紅香檳所用的葡萄全來自 Ay 田,葡萄是 Pinot Noir 。其實這香檳得來不

the historic vineyard of Le Mesnil, which is only 1.85 hectares (smaller

易,話說Paul Krug II的兩個兒子Henri及Remi Krug對粉紅香檳沒有什麼好

than two basketball courts). With a unique geography, Le Mesnil slopes

感,但在1976年他們便做了—個秘密的實驗,他們將用Pinot Noir做的玫瑰紅

slightly to the south-east,and the soil is full of minerals like quarry. It is

與用於香檳的base wine混合,然後再發酵做成粉紅香檳,並於1983年將這

also a “Clos”, meaning it is an enclosed vineyard surrounded by stone.

香檳給父親Paul品嚐,Paul試過後讚不絕囗,他發覺這粉紅金光色的香檳散發

In 1971 Krug bought Le Mesnil and mmediately rebuild the entire

出迷人的花香及野生紅梅的香氣,自始Krug便有自家的粉紅香檳。

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vineyard, which took 8 years. Hence the first vintage of Clos du Mesnil is 1979. Krug Clos d’Ambonnay: This is the last wine to join the Krug family, and is a Blanc de Noir (100% Pinot Noir). The grapes come from a tiny vineyard located in the south of Montagne de Reims, and production is incredibly small. Only 3,000 bottles are produced annually, and as a result it is extremely expensive and precious.

Wine Tasting When I visited Krug I tried the following three wines: Krug Grand Cuvee NV: It shows pale gold, although it is only a non-vintage, the taste is quite rich. This Champagne has a touch of sour lemon, mixed with orange, toast, and a mineral taste. It finished with a bit of honey. Krug 1998: This is from 1998 and the main grape is Chardonnay. There is some citric acidity on the palate with a nose of sulphur and a touch of savoury baked beans. Krug Clos du Mesnil 1998: Only 1,200 bottles were produced and this is 100% Chardonnay. A very unusual bottle with floral, white truffle, cream, and nutty aromas. There is great acidity to balance the complexity, and an elegant, lingering finish. Has a commanding presence.

11

Krug Clos du Mesnil: 這是Krug的旗艦香檳,是品牌中的頂級系列,不是每年生產,除了是年份香 檳外,它亦是只用Chardonnay (Blanc de Blancs)做的香檳,而這些葡萄全 來自—個甚具歷史價值的葡萄園—Le Mesnil。Le Mesnil只有1.85公頃,面 積比起2個標準藍球場還要小,地理獨特,地形向東南面微微傾斜,土壤充滿 着葡萄滕所需的礦物,外圍被—石場包圍着,與外圍的房屋隔絕,所以Clos 在法文中有「圍牆」的意思。Krug於1971年買下Le Mesnil,然後立即重建整 個葡萄園,重建歷時一共有8年之多,所以葡萄園內有着不同樹齡的葡萄滕,

Photo Captions: 1/ Each of the barrels are being washed and dried. 每一個發酵本桶在發酵前都會經過清洗及風乾 2-3/ There is a section for stainless steel barrels and cement tanks.

有一部份會用不銹綱桶及水泥做的桶來發酵

4/

Shows the 1976 barrels used to ferment Grand Cru Bouzy grapes. 這舊木桶顯示BZ代表是用來發酵採摘於Grand Cru Village Bouzy的葡萄,該桶年份是1976年

5/

These old casks are placed in the vat room for fermentation, and each barrel is emblazoned with the name of the Grand Cru Village. 在vat room 裏擺放用來發酵的舊木桶,上面印有Grand Cru Village 的名稱

6-7/ In the cold and dark storage lie the old vintage Champagnes, and some have been here for nearly a decade.

在又長又冷的地道裏擺放着陳年中的香檳,有些已在這裏躺了接近十年之久

8-11/ When I visited Krug, Clos du Mesnil was the most complex and elegant of the three wines. 在參觀Krug 時我品嚐了Krug Clos du Mesil 1998 ,Krug 1998 ,Krug Grande Cuvee NV ,當中以Clos du Mesil 為最複雜及優雅

這可令做出來的香檳有更複雜的個性,而1979年是來自Le Mesnil的第一個釀 酒年份。

Krug Clos d’Ambonnay: 這是 Krug 最後加入的成員,是 Krug 唯一只用紅葡萄 Pinot Noir (Blanc de

Noirs)做的香檳,葡萄來自—塊只有0.685公頃旳葡萄園,位於Montagne de Reims的南面,產量極小,年產只有3000枝,既珍貴亦極昂貴。

美酒品嚐 在參觀Krug時我品嚐了以下三款香檳:

Krug Grande Cuvee NV: 酒色呈現淡金色,雖然是non-vintage, 但口感也頗豐富,這香檳帶有檸檬的酸 味,夾雜着橙皮,多士及礦物的味道,還有—點點蜜糖。

Practical Tips 實用小貼士 Contact Email 聯絡電郵: jamichel@kru.fr

Krug 1998:

Contact Person 聯絡人:Julie

這是來自1998年的香檳,主要葡萄是Chardonnay,檸檬酸裏帶有磺物,咖啡

Address 地址:5 rue Coquebert, 51100 Reims

豆及焙烤的味道

Tel 電話:+33 (0) 3 26 84 44 29 URL 網址:www.krug.com

Krug Clos du Mesil 1998

Krug only accepts professionals in the industry for a visit Krug只招待專業人仕,可不妨一試預約

全球只有1200瓶,100%Chardonnay,

這是—瓶極不平凡的香檳,開瓶後花

香撲鼻,入口帶有白松露,奶油及果仁的味道,複雜的囗感有酸度平衡,十分 優雅,餘韻悠長,果然有大將之風。

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Future development of Chilean Wines

《智利酒-前瞻與未來》 Chinese Text & Images: Jennifer Luk Translation: Eddie Chui

In recent years, you can find thousands of different wines in Hong Kong. The wine scene has never been so exciting, with new developments everyday. Hong Kong people are more interested in wine than ever, with wine lovers sharing photos of wine gatherings on social networks every minute. Aside from the famed wines from familiar regions in cellars or wines brought back from aboard by friends, there are still wines that are waiting for us to explore. This time let us explore the wines from Chile in South America! 近年,在港有售的葡萄酒款有如繁星,數不盡;關於葡萄酒的報導屢見不鮮;酒客在社交網絡上分享的酒聚相片,幾乎每一分鐘就有一張 新上載的,由此可見,香港人對葡萄酒的喜愛程度有多高。然而,當我們沉醉在香港這個角落,享用著在港有售或酒友從熱門的葡萄酒國 帶回來的美酒,大家可有想過,在地球另一端的酒國,還有不少有待我們發掘的葡萄酒?今期,就讓我帶大家探索位於南美的智利酒世界!

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昨天與今天 談智利酒之前,先分享一些我見香港葡萄酒市場的現象。不知大家有否留意 到,很多香港人對法國酒有著解不開的情意結或帶著相當程度的迷思,知名度 甚高的波爾多、勃艮第和香檳都吸引了不少擁戴者,就連剛剛開始接觸葡萄酒 的人,也會說得出這幾個產區名字,甚至認為這兒出產的就是好酒,是不二之 選。相對而言,智利酒就未有如廝魔力,試問有幾多酒客購買智利酒的時候, 會先想一想買哪個產區的酒?多數人會先鎖定偏好的品牌和葡萄品種,然後以 葡萄酒的價位來分辨其檔次,繼而決定買哪款智利酒,地區特色或風土條件的 概念,好像跟智利酒拉不上關係。 沒法子,畢竟智利酒業的發展於90年代才真正起飛,產區的法定監管規條於

1994年才被正式化,而時至今天,一眾釀酒師仍然在努力研究智利的風土, 以及葡萄品種與風土條件的關係,又難怪酒客不認識智利酒的產區特色,亦不 會以之作為選購智利酒的因素之一。話雖如此,相信大部份酒客會認同,認識 葡萄酒多一點,能讓享受昇華,所以,我們何不花少許時間,由今天所知的開

Now and Past When we look at the market in HK, it used to be dominated by French

始更深入了解智利酒?早前到訪過智利,我就有機會親身探究這個酒國及其產 區特色、智利酒界的最新動態和智利酒界對所謂「天然之選」的詮釋。

wines. The most sought after regions are Bordeaux, Bourgogne and Champagne, and even beginners know these names. They also have the impression that the wines from these regions are all good ones and end up just sticking to these wines. Relatively, Chilean wines are not as fascinating for most wine lovers. People are not that familiar with the wine regions and are not that eager to look for wines from a particular region. They will lock on to a particular brand and grape variety, and sort the wines out by price, instead of considering the terroir of these Chilean wines. The wine industry of Chile is young, and it only really started developing since the 90’s, as the appellation law was only established in 1994. The enologists and winemakers are still exploring the terroir of different regions and their relationship with different grape varieties. It is definitely not easy for consumers to buy Chilean wines according to regions. But most wine lovers would agree that it is important to spend some time to understand the country and the regions in order to better appreciate these Chilean wines. Visiting Chile earlier, I was given the chance to explore different

「天然之選」

regions and the latest development of Chilean wines, and the philosophy

簡單直接地理解,「天然之選」其實印證了身處智利的人對大自然的熱愛,

of “Nature’s wine”.

以及他們如何善用天賜的資源去釀造葡萄酒。智利的夏天陽光充沛,乾燥和 暖,有助避免霉菌生長之餘,又能確保葡萄達至熟成階段;安第斯山脈的冰

“Nature’s wine”

雪溶化後,成為灌溉的水源;這個國度還有天然的「防蟲屏障」保護,北面

The love for the natural environment of Chilean people has reared the idea of

有Atacama沙漠,東面有安第斯山脈,南面有Patagonia的冰川,西面則有太

“Nature’s wine” that to grow and make wine in a sustainable way preserving

平洋,它們阻擋害蟲由周邊地區遷徙至智利。這些有利種植葡萄的條件,免

the natural resources. Chile is rot free because of the sunlight and warm

卻葡萄種植者和釀酒師擔憂葡萄成長的問題,繼而驅使他們更專心了解當地

dry weather, helping the vines to grow perfectly. The Andes provides water

的風土條件、研究環境保護及持續發展方案。多得他們的這份心思,加上沒

reserve for vineyards and natural barriers to foreign pests, helped by the

有背負著重重的歷史包袱,他們特別勇於創新,智利酒業的發展潛力甚高,

Atacama dessert in the north, the glaciers of Patagonia in the south and

智利酒的質素定能提升,同時供應更多樣化的酒款。

the Pacific Ocean in the west. Experts could focus on the understanding the terroir of different regions and how to implement sustainable viticulture,

酒款的多樣性

without worrying about disease problem. They are innovative without

此行參觀的酒莊之中,能夠充分表現出智利酒款的多樣性,首選Viña

worrying too much about the traditions, developing high quality wines with

Valdivieso。要數智利十大酒莊,它必榜上有名,以釀造汽酒起家,80年代起

many different styles and focuses.

始生產靜態酒。在位於Curicó Valley的酒莊基地跟首席釀酒師Brett Jackson 會面,他透過品試13款未裝瓶的新酒,講解不同產區的特色,當中包括三款

Diversity

Pinot Noir及三款Cabernet Sauvignon,前者來自Casablanca Valley、Leyda

Viña Valdivieso is the winery on my trip that shows the diversity of Chilean

Valley及Maule Valley的Cauquenes區,它們都是較涼氣候的產區,使Pinot

wines. It’s one of the top 10 wineries in Chile, and it started up with

Noir不失其優雅的個性,後者則來自中部的Maipo Valley、Colchagua Valley

sparkling wines before producing still wines in the 80’s. Meeting the chief

及Curicó Valley,由於這幾個區的氣候環境稍微不同,葡萄熟成速度有異,

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winemaker Brett Jackson in the winery located in Curicó Valley, he showed

加上土壤種類不一樣,釀酒師Brett就著各自的個性,以不同類型的橡木桶浸

me the difference of the regions during a tasting of 13 wines that had yet

釀紅酒,浸釀時間亦有所不同,主理手法基本上跟有名的波爾多紅酒沒兩樣。

to be bottled. We had 3 Pinot Noirs from Casablanca Valley, Leyda Valley

我還品試了其他 18 款白酒和紅酒,另 5 款汽酒。篇幅有限,實難以盡錄所有

and Cauquenes region in Maule Valley, which is cool enough to give Pinot

品酒筆記,概括而言,白酒和紅酒以單一葡萄園出產為主,品試重點在於認

Noir elegance. The other 3 Cabernet Sauvignons were from Mapio Valley,

識葡萄酒的陳年潛力,最能呈現潛力的包括2006和2010年份的Leyda Valley

Colchagua Valley and Curicó Valley. With differences in climate, soil, the

Single Vineyard Chardonnay、1997和2007年份的Single Vineyard Cabernet

ripening period for grapes, Brett had to adjust the barrels that would be

Sauvignon、1998和2008年份的Single Vineyard Merlot,而汽酒方面,推介

used and the maceration time, just like what other estates do in Bordeaux.

之作:以傳統香檳釀造法的Blanc de Blancs,100% Chardonnay。

We tasted another 18 wines including reds and whites, together with another

另類選擇

5 sparkling wines. Most of the reds and whites are from single vineyards,

Colchagua Valley,位處中部Rapel Valley的南半部,名氣甚高的Apalta就是

they want to focus on the aging potential of them. The outstanding wines

在這兒,而大部份的酒莊則座落小鎮Santa Cruz附近,其中有Viu Manent。

include Leyda Valley Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 and 2010, Single

這家酒莊的出品之中,有些另類之選,例如在不少人眼中是阿根廷的旗艦品

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 and 2007, and the Single Vineyard

種Malbec和貴腐甜酒。在酒莊品試了Malbec紅酒,還有其Rosé,亦有各款

Merlot 1998 and 2008. For sparkling, the traditional method Blanc de

紅酒白酒,最叫人欣賞的不是新年份的紅酒,而是較舊年份的 “La Capilla”

Blancs made with 100% Chardonnay is lovely too.

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001。不過,炎炎夏日,在酒莊的戶外餐廳 用膳,Malbec Rosé比紅酒來得更吸引,帶草莓和紅莓果味,有點花香,酸

The Extreme Choices

度適中,清爽怡人,尾聲則有貴腐甜酒Noble Semillon 2011,甘甜之中,夾

The famed Apalta is located in Colchagua Valley, at the southern part of

著蜜餞杏脯味道。值得一提的是,有興趣到此酒莊的人,可以考慮騎馬或坐馬

Rapel Valley. And most of the wineries are surrounding Santa Cruz village,

車,穿梭於葡萄園之間,別有一番風味。

including Viu Manent. They have something different, like the Malbec wines which is an Argentine variety, and some botrytis wine. We tasted many wines

白酒變法

including Rosé and red wine made from Malbec. The most impressive one

Leyda Valley產區於90年代末才被開發,屬於中部以北San Antonio Valley的

is an old wine from “la Capilla” Vineyard, a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon. In the

一個小區,是最貼近太平洋的其中一個智利產區,相對其他產區,此處一帶最

hot summer lunch outdoors, a Rosé made with Malbec is more attractive

受海洋性氣候影響。這回來到Leyda區,參觀的酒莊Viña Garcés Silva就是發

as it is loaded with flavours of strawberries and raspberries, with a touch

展這區的先鋒,而有別於一般人心目中的智利酒莊,它沒有出產那些所謂「大

of floral nose and a refreshing acidity. The lunch ended perfectly with a

眾化」的酒款,憑藉「貴精不貴多」和敢於創新的信念,並希望打破一貫「智

Noble Semillon 2011, full of sweetness and an intense apricot aroma. You

利酒就是果味重而酒體濃醇的低價紅酒」的形象,於是,酒莊出品只有五款,

can travel around the vineyards by horses or cart which is a fascinating

以品牌Amayna推出,用上葡萄品種Sauvignon Blanc、Chardonnay、Pinot

experience.

Noir 和Syrah。

White Revolution

品試了全部酒款,我就明白酒莊的心思。確實,各酒款都表現出涼爽氣候的

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Leyda Valley is a new region developed at the end of the 90’s, which is part of the San Antonio Valley, located close to the Pacific Ocean. Therefore it has more of an oceanic influence compared to other regions. We went to Viña Garcés Silva which is the pioneer in the region. It focuses on producing 5 quality wines only, without any basic series. They bottle their Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah under the brand Amayna. It’s not difficult to understand their philosophy after tasting their wines. The white is better than expected, with an interesting Amayna Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2009 that was fermented in new French oak and then

特色,而白酒比我預期的還要好一點,其中的 Amayna Barrel Fermented

aged for 1 year. Reading the specifications I did imagine another “over-

Sauvignon Blanc 2009,於228公升的新法國橡木桶發酵,再於法國橡木

oaked” Sauvignon Blanc but I turned out to be wrong. The taste of tropical

桶浸釀一年。試酒之前,讀著這些資料,心想,這瓶酒會否又是另一「木

fruit is complemented by vanilla, caramel and spicy notes with a balanced

味」過盛的 Sauvignon  Blanc 呢?結果,我的品酒筆記:熱帶果香中,帶

acidity. It is not the general refreshing taste that we expected from a

香草、焦糖及香料氣息,酸度均衡,未必是一般大眾印象中的 Sauvignon

Sauvignon Blanc; it is intense but still elegant, a new style of Chliean white.

Blanc 口味,然而,非「重口味」的類型,有點優雅貴氣,也許這是智利白 酒的新變法。

Future Development All the slogans about the terroir, sustainability, ecology, diversity, and new

前瞻與未來

styles that Chilean wine industries are claiming might seem to be just a

相信有人會認為甚麼智利的風土條件呀,環保呀,持續發展呀,酒款多樣性

gimmick in your eyes, as they seek to change he image of “cheap and

呀,另類之選呀,還不又只是綽頭,可能只是智利酒界為了擺脫「高產量、

quanitity wines” they used to have. But at least they made one step forward

低價出口葡萄酒」形象的技倆。不打緊,怎說也好,智利酒界確實是已經踏

to improve and we should be more open to those quality wines being

出了多一步去革新,力求進步,我們作為葡萄酒的支持者,也該抱開放的態

produced in Chile. We will see more successful stories in the future.

度去看看智利酒的未來發展,一分耕耘一分收獲,智利酒界的努力,定必會 有成果。

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Fathers

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波爾多的父與子

Sons of Bordeaux

English Text: Brinda Bourhis // Translation: Sophie Siow

Bordeaux like many French wine regions is anchored in history and properties have been passed down from one generation to the next. Taking over from ones father who may have been a figure-head in the wine world can sometimes be a daring task for a young son building his career in wine. Today the challenge is also trying to keep the winery in the family faced with the administrative obstacles. Brinda Bourhis, Cru Magazine’s French correspondent takes a look at different father and son profiles from Bordeaux. The report focuses on the contrasts and similarities between the two generations, on their way of running a wine business (sometimes still together) and their vision on the future of family-held estates in Bordeaux. 一如許多其他法國葡萄酒產區,波爾多有著悠久的歷史,當地很多產業都是一代一代承傳下來的。對於一個正在葡萄酒界建立自己事 業的年輕兒子而言,從作為葡萄酒業界領導人物的父親手裡接管產業,絕對是一個勇敢的任務。除此以外,他們今日還要面臨新的挑 戰,克服一個個行政障礙,盡力保留家族的酒莊。《釀.生活》的法國通訊記者Brinda Bourhis採訪了波爾多的三對父子。這報道 將聚焦於兩代人之間的異同、他們運作(甚至一起共同運作)葡萄酒業務的方式,和他們對家族酒莊的展望。

Alfred-Alexandre and Jean-Jacques Bonnie The Bonnies are a rare example of a family having recently acquired a

A conclusion that is finally shared by all the fathers and sons in Bordeaux

winery in Bordeaux. Although not steeped in centuries of family tradition

wine estates today!

in winemaking, their motivation is just as strong. It all started at the end of 1996 when Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie, a successful Belgian entrepreneur purchased Château Malartic Lagravière, a Cru Classé of Graves. At the

Alfred-Alexandre與Jean-Jacques Bonnie

time his son Jean-Jacques was only 23 packing his bags to work in Spain

最近在波爾多收購了一間酒廠的Bonnies家族是一個罕見的例子。雖然沒有百

for a hypermarket.

年的釀酒家族傳統,他們有著一樣強烈的的熱誠去釀酒。這一切都開始於1996

nies

年底,當時Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie,一個成功的比利時企業家購買了屬於

Big renovation plans were set up for this sleeping beauty and one of them

Graves Cru Classé的Château Malartic Lagravière。他的兒子Jean-Jacques那

included the replacement of the previous owner’s son who due to health

時才23歲,正在西班牙收拾行李去超級市場上班。

issues was unable to stay on to manage the estate. ‘After interviewing

several top people for the job, I thought to myself that I should ask my son

那時候,Alfred-Alexandre正在為這個計劃籌備翻新大計,計劃的其中一部分包

if he was actually interested in the position’ explained Alfred-Alexandre.

括找人頂替因健康問題無法繼續管理酒莊的前莊主兒子。「在面試了幾位出色

It did not take Jean-Jacques very long to accept even if he was slightly

的人選後,我想,我應該問問我的兒子,看看他會不會其實對這職位感興趣。

skeptical about the idea of moving with his now wife Severine to another

」Alfred-Alexandre解釋說。

world and one that was totally different from the life they were used to in

Paris. “the image I had of Bordeaux was old-fashioned full of old people, and in the middle of nowhere’ said Jean-Jacques.

Nearly 10 years on, Jean-Jacques has not regretted his choice, and his

Jean-Jacques並沒有花太長時間考慮,便接受了這個新職位,儘管他對帶著 現在已經是他妻子的Severine搬到與巴黎完全不一樣的世界這個想法也有點懷 疑。Jean-Jacques說:「那時我腦海裡,波爾多是一個偏僻、與世隔絕、充滿 老人的古老地方。」

father has left him to manage the estate with his wife, sister and brotherin-law, a real family operation. His father’s entrepreneurial style is just like

近十年過去了,Jean-Jacques並不後悔當初的選擇,他的父親已經把酒莊交給

his, ensuring they are surrounded by an expert team who they trust and

了他、與他的妻子、妹妹和妹夫,成為一個真正的家族經營酒莊。他父親的管

can work together in building the success of the property. Things have

理風格和他一樣,就是確保他們有一個可以信賴的專家小組能和他們一起建立

been working so well in this family-run unit that Mr Bonnie also purchased

酒莊的成功。這間家庭式經營的組織實在發展得很好,Bonnie先生在過去的幾

in the last few years a bodegas in Argentina called Diamandes and another

年裡已經在阿根廷購買了一個名為Diamandes的酒窖,在Pessac Léognan亦

estate in Pessac Léognan, Gazin Roquencourt.

買下了和另一間名為Gazin Roquencourt的莊園。

Thinking ahead, Alfred-Alexandre just wants to help his children hold onto

放眼未來,Alfred-Alexandre只希望幫助他的孩子能夠守住自己努力取得的成

what he has acquired for them. “I am not into creating a foundation to

果。他解釋:「我並不想成立一個基金去確保酒莊會一直保留,有些家庭會

ensure that the wineries are kept in the family. Some families do this and

這樣做,但許多時年輕一輩只會覺得被迫留在酒莊裡工作,而沒有任何真正

often the following generations feel forced to work in the estate without

的熱情或興趣。」他補充,但考慮到傳承酒莊帶來的行政成本,如果它可以

any real passion or interest’ he explains, “but if it can keep on for 2

維持到兩代便已經很不錯。

generations well that’s not bad, considering the administrative costs that

make it complicated to keep it on for much longer” he adds.

Cru Leader_Fathers & Sons 3.indd 2

總算有一個今天的波爾多葡萄酒莊園父子都同意的結論了!

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B Jacopo Biondi Santi

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The Best of 完 全 擁 有 both worlds

BiondiSanti Text: Eddie Chui

For many old wine regions, new modern style wines develop while the old classic style wineries are keeping their tradition. They have different belief in making great wines. When we are talking about

Brunello di Montalcino, Biondi Santi represents the classic traditional style. After more than 200 years, they are still keeping their same old tradition in winemaking, without much technological updates.

Jacopo Biondi Santi, the fifth generation have the best of both, beholding the traditional Biondi Santi

and modern Castello di Montepò. He understand the importance of traditions while exploring the latest innovation in winemaking.

在很多舊的產酒區中,除了堅持傳統的酒莊外,也會開始發展出所謂的現代派酒莊,他們各自堅持著自己認為是正確的

方向。要說到最傳統的Brunello di Montalcino,大家必定會想起Biondi Santi。經過二百年的光景,時至今日他們仍 然堅守著傳統,不為現代化的革新技術及風格所動搖。而到今天第五代傳人Jacopo Biondi Santi,卻擁有最好,傳統 的Biondi Santi及現代派的Castello di Montepò。他可以在尖端的革新中透徹明瞭傳統的重要性。

The pride of the family

家族的驕傲

In the luncheon held by the ASC Fine Wines, the new agent for

在中港澳新代理商 ASC 舉辦的午宴上,遇上了西裝筆挺的J acopo Biondi

the Biondi Santi wines, we meet Jacopo Biondi Santi in his great

Santi 不經意地露出兩邊的袖口鈕,原來是故意讓大家看到上面的家族徽

Italian suit, intentionally showing the cufflinks with family sign on

號。他說基本上在酒莊的時候都穿著整齊,這完全是受父親Franco Biondi

it. He says that he is wearing suit in the winery, like his father,

Santi 影響。他憶述著剛辭世不久的父親在酒莊工作時,不論在葡萄園、酒

Franco Biondi Santi, who passed away earlier this year. His father

窖或是釀酒室都是穿著整齊的西裝,他說這是尊重這份事業,也是尊重葡萄

was dressing up anytime, in the vineyard, the vat room or cellar, to

酒。這位於Montalcino地區中央Villa Greppo村莊的酒莊,是Biondi Santi

show his respect to his work and to the wines. This famed winery

家族的驕傲,這Brunello 巨人在傳統上也不斷求進,70年代 Jacopo的父親

situated in the Villa Greppo in the heart of Montalcino, and has

Franco 便從多個不同的 Sangiovese 葡萄藤中,選出最好的一棵進行無性

been kept moving forwards, in the 70’s Franco has isolated the

繁殖,種植在Greppo葡萄園上,成為他們獨有的clone BBS11(Brunello

best Sangiovese clone in their vineyard and registered it as the

Biondi Santi vine no.11)。

unique clone BBS11 (Brunello Biondi Santi vine no.11). 堅守傳統

Keeping the tradition

Greppo酒莊多年來都沒有重大的改變,仍然使用傳統的工具,例

The Greppo winery does not have any major changes over the

如來自斯洛文尼亞的巨型橡木桶就已經用上100年之久。他們的

years, keeping the same old tools and procedures, like the

Brunello di Montalcino分為Annata及Riserva,主要以樹齡劃分,前者為較

Slovenian cask being used for over 100 years. They have 2

年青的10至25年葡萄藤,而後者為25年以上的老藤,而且在絕佳的年份才

Brunello di Montalcino, the Annata and the Riserva, where the

會出產,釀造方法大同小異,同樣在大型橡木桶陳年 36 個月。最年青的葡

Annata is made from grapes coming from younger vines of 10

萄藤則拿來釀造 Rosso di Montalcino。「我們的傳統風格 Brunello是追求

to 25 years old, and the Riserva is made from grapes coming

表現terroir及葡萄本身的單寧,不需要以橡木添加其他味道。陳年潛力絕不

from older vines older than 25 years and is only made during

需要懷疑,就像經典的 1955 年酒釀現在仍很有活力。她們的生命並不是由

the best years. The winemaking is the same, with aging in cask

橡木賦予的。」當天品嚐了2006的Annata及Riserva,老樹藤賜予Riserva

for 36months. The youngest ones will be used to make Rosso

多點深度,感覺較細緻綿密。而 1997 的 Riserva 正好表現出她的潛力,經

di Montalcino with shorter aging. “Our Brunello is the classic

過透氣後香氣充實,入口完全不覺是差不多二十年前的酒釀,是 Brunello

traditional style to show the terroir and the character of the

的經典,相對以法國橡木桶陳釀的酒,我自已還真是喜歡這種傳統風格的

grapes, we don’t need any seasoning form the oak. The riserva

Sangiovese極致。

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wines show great aging potential like the vibrant 1955 vintages, not because of the oak but the grapes,” explained Jacopo. We tasted the 2006 Annata and Riserva together, and the Riserva is showing more depth and is more refined. The 1997 Riserva we tasted shows its potential after breathing, and is never like a wine that is almost 20 years old, what a classic Brunello. Comparing to the modern French oak Brunello, I like this kind of traditional style more. Exploring the future There are rumors about the relationship of the 2 generations, Jacopo respect his father for the works in Greppo and the affirmation to traditions. He says, “though I have my own opinions in modern

Jacopo Biondi Santi & his father Franco Biondi Santi

winemaking, but the traditions in Greppo is very important to me. I could see no conflicts between traditional and modern style of

開創未來

winemaking. They could be working at the same time.” As Jacopo

縱使傳聞著這對父子的關係並不太好,但Jacopo卻肯定父親在Greppo酒莊

wanted to show his talent in winemaking, he introduce the clone

的成就及對傳統的堅持。他說:「雖然我對釀造現代風格的酒有自己的一

BBS11 to his own winery, Castello di Montepò in Maremma of

套見解,但我十分認同 Greppo 酒莊的傳統,而且對我來說,兩者沒有衝突

Tuscany. He utilizes modern technology for viticulture and analysis

的,是可以同時進行的,就像我在Maremma的酒莊一樣。」但同時Jacopo

of the terroir in the vineyards. He tried to use new French oak

想表現自己在釀酒方面的天份,他把在Greppo的clone BBS11拿到他自己

barriques to age and make modern style Toscana wines like

擁有,位於 Tuscany 地區 Maremma 的 Castello di Montepò 種植,以最現

Sassoalloro, Schidione, Montepeaone and III Millennio. “I could

代化的技術,高科技勘探當地的 terroir ,以全新法國橡木桶陳釀,釀造出

experiment with different innovations. In Greppo we make classic

現代風格的新派 Toscana 酒釀如 Sassoalloro 、 Schidione 、 Montepeaone

traditional Brunello, at Maremma we can try everything. Now I have

及 III Millennio 等。「我現在可以做我想做的,在 Greppo 釀造傳統正宗的

both ways to make great Sangiovese.” Next time let us try the

Brunello,在Maremma我可以發揮我的想像力。我擁有表現Sangiovese最

modern Sangiovese BBS11 by Jacopo.

好的兩種方式。」下次就讓我嚐嚐他的現代風Sangiovese BBS11。

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Craftmanship from luxury to winemaking 釀酒如縫衣 Text: Eddie Chui

Art could be the direction of winemaking just like most luxury products. The location and facing of the vineyards are important aspect as per the craftsmanship and source of top quality leather for a handbag. Renaud and Laurent Mommeja from a luxurious brand brought a winery in Listrac-Médoc of Bordeaux, starting to produce some great wines like the La Grande Demoiselle d’Hosten. 釀酒就如一門藝術,從工藝到原材料、葡萄園的位置高低、座向都非常講

After buying this historic estate in the

究,就如很多名牌皮包一樣,講求工匠的手工、皮革的產地來源一樣。

heart of Listrac-Médoc, Renaud, who

來自法國名牌世家的 Renaud 及 Laurent Mommeja 兄弟買下了在波爾多

is responsible for the operation, started

Listrac-Médoc的一所酒莊,釀造 La Grande Demoiselle d’Hosten葡萄

series of renovations in the winery in

酒。

order to lift the quality. 47 hectares of the vineyard are replanted gradually, to

自從買下這位於 Listrac-Médoc心臟地帶的酒莊,負責酒莊營運的 Renaud

plant the right varieties and clones on

便作出一系列重大的改革,務求提升葡萄酒的質素。他開始重新種植新

different plots. The cellar and vat room are being renewed utilizing more

的 葡 萄 藤 , 根 據 47 公 頃 葡 萄 園 的 風 土 , 栽 種 合 適 的 葡 萄 藤 , 酒 莊 也 重

gravity to reduce the use of pump. All the equipment are renewed at

新改建,採用以地心力為主運作的酒窖來傳送葡萄、果液及葡萄酒,

the modern standard and a new team is built around enologist Eric

減少使用氣泵,加上最新的釀酒器材,全新的釀酒團隊,包括名釀酒師

Boissenot. The target is to, “focusing in the vineyards in order to get

Eric Boissenot ,以打造全新感覺的酒釀,他們的目標是:「透過在葡萄

the best grapes, and with the modern winemaking approach to make

園所下的苦工,種出最好的葡萄,以現代化的釀酒技術,打造出可跟其他

wines that could rival the classified growths in the region.” I visited the

列級酒莊佳釀比美的酒釀。」早兩年筆者除了參觀了正在重新修建的酒窖

estate during the renovation period, realizing all the re-building is not

及大宅,所花的心機,不是只限於外觀的修復,而是同時從實用方面去做

just to make it looks better, but to transform it into a better winery.

到盡善盡美。

This La Grande Demoiselle d’Hosten is one of their cuvée, with

這瓶 La Grande Demoiselle d’Hosten便是旗下其中一款出品,以 Merlot及

equal portion of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as the backbone

Cabernet Sauvignon為主加上少許 Cabernet Franc,由於使用舊的橡木

complemented by some Cabernet Franc. The use of old oak barrels

桶較多,沒有使用全新橡木桶那強烈的木桶影響,入口感覺較柔和,少了

make this wine softer and rounder, minimizing the harshness of new

一般來自 Médoc區的葡萄酒的青澀,單寧入口很順滑。

oak, and the herbal character of the Médoc region, resulting in velvety tannin instead.

不少人認為葡萄酒是「天然混成」的,但其實要打造頂級的葡萄酒不單要 最好的葡萄,還要最好的釀酒團隊的工藝,及最合適的工具。這就像是打

Many people would say that wine is just a natural happening. On the

造精益求精的頂級奢侈品牌的產品一樣, Renaud 及 Laurent 兩兄弟絕對心

contrary, to make top wine you need ot have the best grapes, the

明於此,在買下酒莊的同時,還大灑金錢去改造,對品質絕不妥協。

best winemaking team and the best equipment. It is just like making luxurious goods with exceptional craftsmanship. Renaud and Laurent understand this and spend a fortune not just to buy a winery, but to

Enquiry: DLA (HK) Ltd. Email: info@dlafr.com

Club Peng Pai Tel: +86 (757) 6386 1961 www.clubpengpai.com

rebuild it, aiming to make the highest quality wines.

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Bacchus Fine Wines - Annual Grand Tasting 慶祝百德仕酒業集團創立五週年

After a week of busy work, we all look forward to a “Happy Friday” to enjoy

對於一眾忙碌的上班族來說,一個星期之中最期待的肯定是「開心星期五」

the company of friends. To celebrate their fifth anniversity, Bacchus Fine

放工的一刻,對吧?上月,香港百德仕酒業集團Bacchus Fine Wines在星期

Wines organized a wine tasting event to showcase their portfolio earlier last

五夕陽斜照的餘暉下,於中環交易廣場頂樓的美國會,為一眾酒迷舉行了一

month at the American Club located on the top floor of Exchange Square

場年度品酒會,慶祝集團創立五週年。

overlooking the habour and sunset. 當日百德仕酒業為場內300多名參加者帶來了超過50款來自世界各地的酒款,

Bacchus Fine Wines offered more than 50 kinds of wines from different wine

更邀請了來自七個酒莊的代表與釀酒師來到會場,一同品試多個酒款,為賓

regions all over the world for over 300 participants to taste. Representatives

客親身講解每一款酒的特色;包括來自法國的兩所香檳莊 Louis de Sacy 及

and winemakers from 7 wineries were there to talk about their wines

Mailly的頂級香檳、波爾多Cordier-Mestrezat及Sobovi莊園的酒款、來自意

and their philosophies. Among the highlights were top Champagnes

大利 Piedmont的Pelassa、新西蘭的 Tupari Wines及來自澳洲的 Redheads

from 2 Grand Cru Champagne houses: Champagne Louis de Sacy and

Studio。來自新舊世界的多款佳釀、各適其適,聚首一堂。

Champagne Mailly, top Bordeaux cuvées from Cordier-Mestrezat and Sobovi, Pelassa from Piedmont in northern Italy, Tupari Wines from New

伴隨著大會特地安排的現場爵士音樂與悠揚低綩的爵士女聲,現場眾人無

Zealand, and boutique winery Redheads Studio from Australia. Wine lovers

不享受著爵士樂與 Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve 所帶來的優雅與 Louis

explored both old world and new world wines during this great evening.

de Sacy Grand Cru Brut的沉穩豐厚。Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve以

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All the wines were even more enjoyable when accompanied with great

100% Pinot Noir釀製而成,來自香檳區內優越的特級葡萄田,Mailly Grand

jazz and vocals alongside a beautiful view of the harbour. The Grand Cru

Cru Brut Reserve有著精緻而優雅的口感與氣泡,配上大會當日供應的三文魚

Champagnes from Mailly and Louis de Sacy were the most elegant and

小卷等canapés,相當配合。Louis de Sacy Grand Cru Brut  由優質的Pinot

classic matches with these jazz sounds. Mailly Grand Cru Brut Reserve

Noir、Pinot Meunier及Chardonnay釀造而成,經過橡木桶陳釀,更為酒釀帶

made from100% Pinot Noir, was a perfect match with the salmon canapés.

來更豐厚和複雜細緻的質感,與溫綩沉穩的爵士女聲相輝映。

The Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay blend of Louis de Sacy Grand Cru Brut was aged carefully in fine oak, which gives greater

當日大會更加入幸運抽獎環節,送出多款美酒、 Spiegelau 酒杯套裝和價值

complexity, elegance, and texture to the wine; it was in perfect harmony

$2,880的Château Montrose 2005大瓶裝外,有幸運兒更拿走了由MEGA

with the sexy female jazz vocals and night view of Victoria Harbour.

Maldives Airlines送出價值$18,000的馬爾代夫雙人來回機票呢!

Beside wine tasting, there was also a lucky draw featuring prizes of wines, Spiegelau wine glasses and a magnum bottle of Château Montrose 2005 valued at $2,880. The grand prize was a Maldives round-trip flight tickets

Enquiry: Bacchus Fine Wines www.bacchusfinewines.asia

for two by MEGA Maldives Airlines worth $18,000!

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The Disciples Escoffier Young Talent Trophy 2013 埃科菲青年廚師大賽 2013

Hong Kong is home to many of Asia’s most prestigious gourmet

香港作為亞洲區內享負盛名的美食天堂,各式美食當然在城中各食府都能

destinations, and excellent restaurants all across the city specialize

一一享用得到。一直致力推動業界發展的頂級廚師組織—埃科菲國際廚師

in a wide variety of international cuisines. Having been committed

協會已經連續六年以發掘具潛力的優質業內精英為目標,以「埃科菲青年

to promoting the development of the industry’s top chefs, Disciples

廚師大賽」作為發掘青年優秀廚師的渠道,現更是亞洲區內青年廚師們重

Escoffier has been hosting The Disciples Escoffier Young Talent

要的烹飪賽事之一,所有 25 歲或以下,入廚經驗不多於五年的年青廚師都

Trophy (DEYTT) for the past six years, as the organization seeks

可以參加。

to bring top Asian talent to competitions around the world. All the chefs are 25 years old or younger, and must have more than five

今年度的埃科菲青年廚師大賽2013香港區選拔賽已經完滿結束,在參賽七位

years of experience in the kitchen.

年青香港廚師中憑著其創意及個人風格突圍而出的,是現職G7 Private Dining 二廚的黃翊銘。他在大會指定菜式—煎鴨胸配法式柑橘醬汁—以其穩定的

This year’s winner of the DEYTT 2013 Hong Kong Pre-Selection is

基本功及烹飪技巧贏得了亞洲區總決賽的一席位,代表香港與七個亞洲地區

Chris Wong, and his creativity and persona style marked him out as

及國家的優勝者一較高下,包括來自澳門、新加坡、中國、南韓、越南、泰

our official Hong Kong representative. He will compete in the Asia

國及菲律賓的青年冠軍廚師。

Finals with seven other contestants from Macau, Singapore, China, South Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, and the Philippines.

埃科菲青年廚師大賽2013亞洲區總決賽將於9月3至5日於香港會議展覽中心

5F&G展覽廳,「香港餐飲展2013」內舉行,產生亞洲區冠軍青年廚師! The Asia Finals of the Disciples Escoffier Young Talent Trophy will be held on September 3rd to the 5th at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre at Hall 5 F&G during “Restaurant & Bar 2013”,

More Information: www.disciples-escoddier-asia.com

where the newest Asian champion will be decided!

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The

CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. This issue we will introduce an incredible art-themed hotel located in Paris called Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris, and The Ritz Carlton of Barcelona. While we are on art, we will look at the German watch brand Junghans and their latest models.

作為國際級的時尚之都,瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The

Cru Lifestyle這裡,我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、時尚玩 物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。今期將為大家介紹位於巴黎的藝術主題酒店Le

Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris和位於巴塞隆拿的麗思卡爾頓酒店。在接觸藝術的 同時,我們亦會帶來德國百年鐘錶品牌榮翰寶星的精湛腕錶、又把葡萄酒穿上身, 看看隆河谷的最新時尚設計。

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In Touch with Art 接觸藝術

Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong // Images: Nicholas Siu

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Raffles Hotel has always been known for providing an environment of quiet elegance and delicacy no matter where the branch locations are. In Singapore, the Middle East, or elsewhere in Asia, Raffles Hotel always has a classic image of beauty, and out of all the Raffles Hotels in the world, only one is in Europe: the romantic city of Paris. Artistic Conception After two years of renovation, the famed designer Philippe Starck has skillfully wrought a theme for Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris, which was officially opened in 2010. Situated in Paris, Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris is arguably the world’s most unique Raffles yet, where the artistic intent of Philippe Starck permeates the atmosphere of the building. 萊佛士品牌旗下的酒店一向給人一種優雅而恬靜的秀氣感覺,無論是新加坡、亞洲還是中 東地區駐腳的萊佛士酒店都一貫地擁有著品牌經典的美態,至於在歐洲地區唯一一間萊佛 士酒店則位於浪漫之都—法國巴黎。 構思藝術 經過兩年時間的重新裝修,在設計師 Philippe  Starck 的巧手之下,這一所以藝術為主題 的Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris 正式在2010 年開幕。這間位於巴黎的Le Royal

Monceau – Raffles Paris 可以說是世界各地的Raffles 中最獨特的,這裡的藝術氣息氛圍 一流,正正就是Philippe 構思的原意。

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1 / It feels fresh and elegant in the Royal Monceau Suite Royal Monceau Suite - 感覺清新淡雅

Taste Fine Italian Art The first thing to mentioned of course would be the convenient location of the

2 / The Ray Charles Suite was inspired by the famous jazz player Ray Charles Suite - 以傳奇爵士音樂家Ray Charles為靈感,向這

hotel. It is close to the lively shopping district of Champs Elysées, and the Arc

位曾經的贊助者致敬

de Triomphe and Avenue Montaigne aren’t too far away. Historical and culturally

3 & 4 / Casual comfort in the Prestige Suite Prestige Suite - 優閒舒適

important buildings are all around the neighbourhood, and the Raffles itself is also quite significant. With 149 rooms and suites, Philippe Starck redesigned

5 / The Royal Monceau Suite Bathroom is opulent but stylish Royal Monceau Suite 內的洗手間,設計裝潢相當富有時尚都市氣息

everything inside the hotel from scratch, carefully fusing all the furniture and interior design with the modern, minimalist Marxist and French art style. 細意品味藝術氣息 首先要提及的當然是它方便至極的地理位置,它距離熱鬧的購物區Champs Elysées Arc

de  Triomphe 和 Avenue  Montaigne 都只是幾分鐘路程,地理位置優越,酒店也是被歷史 文化氣息濃重的舊建築群包圍著。 Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris 擁有 149 間客房及 套房,在 Philippe Starck 由零開始的重新設計下,將所有空間裝潢設計及傢俬配襯融合成 具有一貫萊佛士酒店的優雅氣質,又有着現代的簡約主義和法式藝術的筆觸。 一共 89 間客房和 54 間套房中,每一個角落都有著令人驚喜的細節位,在房間內客人可以隨 時翻閱隨意擺放著的書籍、又或者隨手拿起每個房間都會放置的木結他,按心情彈奏一曲… 5

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6, 7 & 9 / French Presidential Suite Interior Design

法式裝潢設計的總統套房

8 / Direct access to an elevator in the Presidential Suite

直達總統套房的私人電梯

10 / In Le Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris, each room has an acoustic guitar 酒店內每個房間都有一把木結他,是Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris的特色之一

Belonging to Luxury Paris In Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris, the heart of the design is to make every guest feel a casual atmosphere that is tasteful and quiet, but it is also important to create the image of personal space and privacy. The hotel has three Presidential Suites that are each 350 square meters large. Each one has a private Turkish bath, a private fitness room (and a personal trainer), a private theatre, and a private chef who is able to cook the preferred cuisine of the guest from day to night. Guests also have a secure private entrance on 41 Avenue Hoche, so that they will not have to enter their rooms through the crowded hotel lobby. 屬於巴黎的奢華 在Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris ,隨心隨性的設計令住客每一刻也感受著隨品味生 活的優閒氣氛,但原來它亦非常照顧希望擁有個人空間與私隱的客人。酒店擁有三間面積達

350 平方米、極致優越的總統套房,無論裝潢佈置、服務和配套都無不傾盡心思。每間總統 套房都擁有私人的土耳其浴室 Hammam 和私人健身室(還包括私人健身教練)、私人影院 以及私人廚師,無論日夜都能夠按客人的喜好來烹調不同菜式。最深得客人喜愛的,便是位 於41  Avenue  Hoche 街的私人保安入口,直接進入總統套房,不用經過人來人往的酒店大 10

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堂,私隱度更高。

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The hotel is designed for contemporary art and has a design bookstore called Art Bookstore La Librairie des Arts, and a theatre room called Le Cinema des Lumières. It also has more than 300 collections of contemporary art. 酒店專為當代藝術而設的書店 Art Bookstore La Librairie des Arts、小 型影院 Theater room Le Cinema des Lumières,以及擁有超過300件 藏品的當代藝術展覽廳

Breath in the Art Art is everywhere in the hotel and every breath of air will reveal another brilliant piece. When the hotel opened in 2010 it set a program to promote culture and art, including arranging a range of services to encourage guests to access the artistic culture. In addition to the fact that the hotel is designed for contemporary art, there is also a design bookstore, a small theatre, and more than 300 collections of contemporary art exhibitions. 呼吸每一口藝術氣息 在Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris,藝術是無處不在的,在這裡呼吸的每一口空氣都彷佛 透著藝術氣息。因為酒店在2010年開幕之初就已經定下了一套發揚文化與藝術的方針,致力 提供一系列讓客人接觸文化的服務。酒店除了設有專為當代藝術而設的書店、小型影院,以及 擁有超過300件藏品的當代藝術展覽廳。

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French female photographer Cerise Doucède as she works the scene, setting the magic moment and arranging objects to appear floating in the air 法國女攝影師Cerise Doucède以酒店作為她的作品場景,定格奇幻的瞬間,生活中的物體脫離重力漂浮在空中。

Art Concierge Another interesting but also practical service at the hotel is the Art Concierge. At every hotel there is a basic concierge that offers basic tourist and restaurant information, but with Raffles there is a specially trained art and culture concierge who will aid on advanced information regarding these subjects. Domoina Debrantes and her team will be providing tourists visiting Paris with the best routes, the best museums to visit, and also the latest exhibitions showing. Each trip can be tailor made for guests, as everyone likes to visit different exhibitions and shows. Art Concierge Philippe另一個非常有趣而實用的設計就是Art Concierge。Concierge幾乎每間酒店都會有, 為客人提供實用的旅遊及當地資訊及情報;而Philippe設計的Art Concierge則是專為藝術文化 Domoina Debrantes

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的查詢而設立。由Domoina Debrantes和她的團隊負責,她們除了提供遊訪巴黎各地的路線建 議外,又會不時更新最新的藝術情報,甚至為客人度身訂造展覽的參觀等服務,貼心又實用。

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And as an advocate of contemporary art and culture, how could such a hotel lack a restaurant serving such fine delicacies? Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris has a total of two Michelinstarred restaurants. The first one is La Cuisine by Executive Chef Laurent André and Chef Gabriel Grapin, who serve delicious and fresh contemporary French cuisine. The layout and décor of the restaurant are full of French Art Nouveau works, and even the ceiling of the restaurant was personally painted by the French artist Stéphane Calais, creating a natural and casual atmosphere. 米芝蓮餐廳坐陣 一間擁有如此宣揚當代藝術的精緻酒店又怎能缺少供應精緻美饌的餐廳呢?Le Royal Monceau –

Raffle Paris一共設有兩間享負盛名的米芝蓮星級餐廳坐陣,La Cuisine由行政總廚Laurent André 和餐廳主廚Gabriel Grapin主理,供應當代法式料理。無論裝潢和佈局也充滿法式藝術風格,餐廳 內的天花更由法國藝術家Stéphane Calais親自繪上圖案,更添隨性而優閒的氣氛。

Chef Sommelier Manuel Peyrondet & Executive Chef Laurent André 品酒總監 Manuel Peyrondet 及行政總廚Laurent André

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Then there is Il Carpaccio, the only Italian restaurant in Paris that has two-Michelin stars. It is decorated with a Sicilian Baroque design and the wall has broken sea shells on the sides to emphasize the coastal nature of the restaurant. The chef, Roberto Rispoli, hails from Tuscany, and Works alongside Executive Chef Laurent André and Pastry Chef Pierre Hermé to meld Italian and French styles together. They focus on rustic, country-styles of cooking, with fresh ingredients and wonderful French pastries to round up a hearty meal. You can’t miss Peirre Hermé’s famous Macarons with Chocolate. Even for a city like Paris, the Raffles Hotel is an unexpected escape and symbol of elegance. The hotel really presents a unique presentation of the flexible attitude of life that art lovers enjoy, and travellers that want leisure and culture will find a whole different side of Paris from Raffles. 另外一間餐廳Il Carpaccio更是巴黎唯一一間擁有兩星米芝蓮榮譽的意大利餐廳,餐廳的裝潢以西 西里常見的巴洛克風格設計,牆上更有一塊塊貝殼作裝飾,充滿海岸風情。來自意大利Tuscany 的大廚Roberto Rispoli聯同行政總廚Laurent André及糕餅大師Pierre Hermé,以新鮮的法國食材 及傳統意國食譜烹調各款意式美食和甜品糕點。除了正式用餐之外,來到這裡更絕對要一試Pierre

Hermé著名的Macaron與朱古力! 想不到 Raffles 的優雅與經典,在法國巴黎竟能以全新的面貌呈現出來,將法式藝術以融入生活 的姿態靈活詮釋,可以說是無論是鍾愛藝術、還是希望體驗優閒品味的旅人來到巴黎必住的酒 店之一。

Chef of La Cuisine, Gabriel Grapin 米芝蓮餐廳La Cuisine餐廳主廚Gabriel Grapin

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Pastry master Pierre Hermé and his famous Macarons 糕餅大師Pierre Hermé及其著名的Macarons

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088

Hotel Arts Barcelona Chinese text: Jonathan Li // Translation: Eddie Chui

This issue I am hopping over to Spain to talk about a very unusual hotel, Hotel Arts of Barcelona. If the name does not tell the story, it is actually a Ritz Carlton hotel, so named because of its extensive art work collection. 今期我跑到西班牙去,給讀者介紹一間不平常的 酒店,巴塞隆拿的「藝術酒店」。店名或有誤導之 處,但它其實是另一豪華的麗思卡爾頓,因為店裡 收藏了大量藝術品而得名。

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Hotel Life

089

Even room amenities look artistic. The magazine rack is made of leather, hand-crafted and tastefully mounted to the wall. The room as a whole is beautifully and costly furnished, colourful to just the right degree. Yes, this is a vogue hotel, almost ultra-modern, but never in excess. I stayed in a Club floor room: If I go to a Ritz Carlton I can’t resist the Club temptation, and my room is one of the most comfortable I have ever stayed in, spacious and with a magnificent view of the Barcelona beach area. 就算是房間的設備也充滿藝術性,比如掛在牆上的雜誌架,就是手工皮製

I know Barcelona well but it is the first time I stayed in this Beach area, in

的精品。客房裝潢漂亮,不惜工本,色彩漂亮不單調卻不致繽紛。這是一

fact only a short stroll to the Ramblas in downtown, via the very vibrant

間非常新潮的酒店,時麾得適度,永不過度。我每次住麗思卡爾頓都不能

Barceloneta area and the beach.

抗拒「會所樓層的誘惑」,所以「必住」 Club。在此我住的是最舒適的大 客房,窗外海灘風景一流。

The temptation of the Ritz Carlton Club is that it offers very personal services and a full-day of food and refreshment. I arrived for a cruise, in

我到過巴塞隆拿十多次了,但住在此區卻是第一次,但其實到市中心的

jetlag and having seen Barcelona maybe 10 times, so I simply enjoy the

Ramblas行人大道也是步行距離,還經過鄰近熱鬧無比的Barcelona娛樂區。

immediate environment of beach and nightlife, and not least the excellent Club facilities.

會所樓層的誘惑是完全個性化的服務,和全日不絕的飲食供應,我既舊地 重遊不用去看什麼,所以也就在附近遊逛,享受會所設備,兩天後就近去

The name Hotel Arts derives from its extensive collection of art work by

登船坐郵輪。

Spanish artists, the most imposing is no doubt the big “fish” on rooftop, where there is also the big pool. It is very extraordinary architecture: from

藝術酒店之命名是因為它擁有豐富的西班牙現代藝術的收藏,也許最驚人

the outward exposed structure of 44 floors to the lobby, everything is

的是天台的巨魚塑像,那裡也有大泳池。其實酒店的 44層結構外露式的建

impressive if not even stunning. The hotel houses 455 rooms and one of

築物,外觀就令人目眩,室內從大堂起都是不斷的驚訝,這樣大的大廈只

its restaurants boasts of 2 Michelin stars. Hotel Arts Barcelona indeed

有455間客房,有一間米芝連二星級的著名餐廳。麗思卡爾頓藝術酒店可說

takes modern luxury to the ultimate level.

己把現代化的奢華進行到巔峰了。

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090

Watch Life

1.

Junghans Meister Handaufzug

Natural Craft 跨越百年的不老名字 Text: Eddie Chui

In the world of watches, many names are built from scratches, with innovation and exceptional craftsmanship. Junghans is one of these names going through a century by its strength, not depending solely on the market planning. 在鐘錶的世界,很多有名字都是從無到有,從小到大,經過不斷磨練、創新、精進而成為一代宗師,成就過百 年的事業的。Junghans絕對是如此經過千錘百鍊的字號,靠的不是名牌效應,而是從內到外的非凡實力。

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Watch Life

091

Erhard Junghans Aerious Chronoscope

Bogner by Junghans Willy Chronoscope

Established in 1861, Junghans started by manufacturing clock and watch components. They won the reputation by focusing on quality with no compromise and started to develop their own movements and timepieces. They are devoted to independent design, innovation in technology and top class quality, turning them to the largest manufacturer of clocks and other

1861年成立的Junghans,起初只以生產鐘錶零件為主,但由於對品質的執

timepieces in the early twentieth century. In 1970 they introduced the first

著,很快便能在行內站穩,更於五年後自行設計各式鐘錶。重視獨立設計,

Quartz watch – “Astro-Quartz” and the innovation never stop. Last year

致力開發新技術及頂級的造工品質,使他們在二十世紀初已成為時鐘生產的

they start reproducing the classic Meister series watches. Others includes

最大廠商。在及後的不同年代,也設計出不少名作,例如Meister系列機械式

Erthard Junghans Aerious chronoscope and a joint creation of Bogner by

鐘錶。1970更推出了德國第一款石英腕錶「Astro-Quartz 」,之後不斷推

Junghans series.

出別具意義的脆錶。去年他們更以新技術重新演繹經典的 Meister系列腕 錶。還有 Erthard Junghans Aerious計時腕錶及由德國兩大企業聯手推出 的自動腕錶 Bogner by Junghans系列。

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092

Fashiion Life

Dressing up 穿上隆河谷 with Rhône Text: Eddie Chui

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093

Fashiion Life

1

2

3

4

1-《沙》 2-《繁花似錦》 3-《紅舞幸福》 4-《韵》

Have you ever think of dressing with your favourite wines? Recently the InterRhone association from Rhône Valley has teamed up with the College of Arts of the South China Agricultural University in Guangzhou to organize a “Rhône Wines Fashion Design Competition”. The competition focuses on representing Rhône wines in modern design with the theme “wines, red, blessed” joined by many young designers in China. 有 想 過 把 葡 萄 酒 穿 在 身 上 嗎 ? 來 自 法 國 隆 河 區 ( R h ô n e   Va l l e y ) 的

InterRhone 協會早前跟廣州華南農業大學藝術學院合辦「隆河谷葡萄酒服 裝設計大賽」,讓年輕的設計師以隆河區的葡萄酒作主題,並以「葡萄酒、 紅色、幸福」作為重點,設計出一系列具代表性的時尚服飾。

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094

Fashiion Life

1

2

3

4

1-《握在手中的紅酒,品味杯中的幸福》 2-《怦然心動》 3-《動.靜》 4-《低調的奢華》

Leaders from the art and fashion industry, joined with representatives of the InterRhone, selected some outstanding designs. Different style like a modern brilliant one and some with the touch of Chinese styling, has show the richness, crispy, passionate and elegant style of the Rhône wines. These designs were presented on the catwalk show on the presentation ceremony. 由時裝藝術界的代表及 InterRhone 的代表選出了一系列的作品,有時尚風 韻的,也有帶傳統中國風的設計,但同時演繹了隆河區葡萄酒濃厚、醇美、 清冽而熱情及優雅等等不同的個性。以下是入圍的及得獎作品,在慶典上由 模特兒在天橋上展現隆河谷葡萄酒之另類嬌美。

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Art Life

096

A

rt and Culture at HAJI

文化與藝術在夏至 Text: Mini 夏至 Images: michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team Hair ( Mini ): Pius Yiu, Jim Ho, Sonn Lam @ Orient4.com.hk

Hong Kong Scenery Peter Kan Photography Exhibition 香港風情畫 - 靳子森攝影展 Date: Aug 03 – Aug 14 日期: 8 月 3 日– 8 月 14 日

Peter Kan was born into an artistic family. Kan’s Family life influences

靳氏藝術家族在設計、水墨、攝影、書法、油畫等,藝術成就都卓越顯

helped Peter Kan develop a passion for art. Peter Kan’s father,

赫。靳文森的父親是著名畫家,創立「藝聯藝院」,堂哥是設計大師靳

Kan Kung Tai is a well-known painter; Peter Kan’s cousin, Kan Tai

埭強,靳文森自小跟父親,伯父微天和姑姐思薇學習西洋畫,其後愛上攝

Keung, is a renowned design master. Peter learned sketching and

影,更以相機代畫筆,相紙作畫布。《香港風情畫》這個展覽名稱就是這

watercolor painting from his father, uncles and aunties. He started

樣得來的,攝影藝術品好像畫作一樣紀錄香港。曾獲無數國際攝影比賽殊

to show great interest in photography in the early 70’s. His diverse

榮的靳子森,現任多個攝影學會會長及多個攝影學會會士,靳氏以人物、

artistic interests contributed a great deal to his photographic work.

風光、紀實、動態和高空攝影來紀錄香港。在展覽中,可以看到商業心藏

Peter liked to portray a wide range of subjects in his photography,

地帶的高廈森林,離島風光,節慶紀實,元朗天后誕巡遊,長洲太平清

including people, scenery, and Aerial shots. In his solo photography

醮,端午龍舟競渡和中秋大坑火龍,都在靳子森的個人攝影展《香港風情

exhibition, Peter will use camera and film as his canvas and brush,

畫》中看到。展覽由 8 月 3 日至 8 月 14 日,讓風光如畫的攝影作品,在 HAJI

create art with Hong Kong Scenery.

Gallery 內展現。

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Art Life

097

HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011

ONE-SEVENTH Exhibition – Group Exhibition 七份一藝術展(群展) Date: Aug 16 – Aug 28 日期: 8 月 16 日至 8 月 28 日

Oxfam Hong Kong and 14 local artists join hands to highlight the

14 位藝術家,以一個木框為主軸、以全球七份一人口在捱餓為題,用藝術

disquieting fact about global hunger. Do you know that one out

引起各界的關注,正視飢餓問題,作品將於 11 月進行慈善拍賣,受益慈善

of seven people in the world is still starving? Manfred Yuen, the

機構是樂施會。策展人阮文韜是一位建築師,把「 1/7 」這個概念建築在

curator, asked 14 local artists to think out of the box! Each of the

一個木盒框上,讓本地藝術家創作異想天開的藝術。每位藝術家都以一個

artists was given a box with 70 cm width, 70 cm height and 7

長闊 70 厘米,深 7 厘米的盒子為材料,發展對「 1/7 」的表達和感受。如

cm depth. The artist made use of the box to create art piece to

劉掬色讓畫作放在發光的「 1/7 」盒子內,把 John  Lenno n的歌 Imagine

arouse people the awareness of the global food problem. Gukzik

的 7 個英文字母放在 6 個碗子中,寓意全球有七份一(約九億多)人不能

Lau created an artwork called “Imagine”, a John Lennon’s song,

得到溫飽。黃國才的《豐盛之地》作品,利用乾粟米及木雕展示人們的

to show that one of our seven people is starving in an artistic light

貪婪,諷刺在主流糧食生產線上,出現很多不公平的制度,讓小農戶被

box. Kacey Wong created “The Land of Plenty” for One Seventh

剝削,也得不到應有的糧食。展覽 8 月 16 日至 8 月 28 日在 HAJI Gallery 舉

Exhibition. He created a large disc out of resin, he collected dried

行,欣賞展品之餘,隨後也可參與慈善拍賣。

corns from Africa to show how wooden animal and human being were trapped inside the box. There will be a charity auction after the exhibition. Proceeds will be given to Oxfam Hong Kong.

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Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場

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Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號

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The latest Italian dining concept brings authentic regional tastes from Italy, serving this best-loved cuisine in a relaxed and rustic setting, with stunning harbour views. Nestled within the Hong Kong Arts Centre, it offers a new dining experience that rolls artistic vibe and impeccable hospitality into one. It has been awarded the seal Ospitalità Italiana, a certificate recognizing Assaggio’s authentic Italian cuisine and recommended by the Michelin Guides.

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Café Siam is one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants and the only Michelin-recognized establishment in Hong Kong, Café Siam is a tranquil respite from the hustle & bustle of Lan Kwai Fong.

Address: 2/F – 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2851 4803 Website: www.cafesiam.com.hk

Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下

Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖

Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖

Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖

Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖

Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖

Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖

Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑

Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖

Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓

Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓

L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖

Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓

Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓

Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓

Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓

Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience. Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk

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With over 40 years of experience. Jeeves of Belgravia serves leading international fashion houses, the Royal Family of England and all those stylish individuals who care for their garments and accessories. Looking for a top quality Fashion dry cleaner in Hong Kong? The choice is simple: Jeeves of Belgravia. Email: jeeves@jeeves.com.hk Website: www.jeeves.com.hk Facebook: www.facebook.com/jeeveshongkong Customer service hotline: 2973 0071 Collection and delivery hotline: 2552 7557

Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室

Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418

The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號

French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓

Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖

The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號

Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓

NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓

Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓

O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓

St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓

Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖

Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室

Messina, named after a city in Sicily, features the finest cuisine from southern Italy. Diners can enjoy a few drinks before their meal at the bar located near the entrance, with window-side tables overlooking Victoria Harbour.

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In  December  2012,  Messina  received  a  “Particularly  Pleasant” recommendation in the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2013.

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Messina 以 意 大 利 西 西 里 一 個 城 市 命 名 , 主 打 意 國 南 部 美 饌 。 進 餐 前 不 妨在入口處的酒吧淺嚐美酒,倚窗座位可飽覽璀璨維港美景。去年12 月, Messina 獲得米芝蓮「上佳餐廳」推介。

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Address: 5/F, Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St, Hung Hom Tel: 3746 2733 Website: www.kodining.com

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Zeitgeist [tsīt-ˌgīst, ˈzīt-], the general intellectual, moral, and cultural climate of an era. Loft [ˈlȯft], an upper room or floor. When combined, it became an intellectual and innovative wine boutique, specializing in the finest and rare California cult wines. Our philosophy is to share our passion with the most unique experiences to the people who love wine.

Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下

Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室

Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖

Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室

Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室

Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號

Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下

Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪

Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪

Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓

Collezione Maxscene Wineshop Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, MM Advertising - ISSUE (July 2013) - 54 210x85mm - OP-V3.pdf 1 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室 Kowloon, Hong Kong

M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室

Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下

28/6/13

Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN

5:44 PM 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪

voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下 Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖 Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖

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Cru magazine special subscription offer Dynasty Medium Dry White Wine Muscat is a grape variety that was already known to the Romans who called it “apianae” in reference to its honey smell in the vineyard that attracted bees. Its nose is

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Become our Grand Cru Member ·Subscribe 12 issues for only HKD456 (original price HKD576), save more than 20% ·Immediately receive one special subscription gift ·Enjoy GRAND CRU membership benefits Member Name

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Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com

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professional

wine cellars in hong kong

• Wholly owned by a listed company • Hong Kong RFID Award 2010 Logistics Management System • The most advanced climate control systems, anti-vibration System • Chubb Security System • Comprehensive Insurance Policy • Exclusive VIP Locker for private collcetion • Secondary wine sales on behalf of menber • Flexible Storage Plan • Nearby Shatin Racing Course

For Enquiry, please call 歡迎致電

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•上市公司全資擁有公司 •採用榮獲2010年RFID獎物流管理系統 •最專業溫度濕度系統及防震設施 •集寶保安監測系統 •全面保險保障 •為會員提供私人珍藏保險箱 •為會員提供葡萄酒寄賣服 •靈活的儲存計劃 •鄰近沙田馬場

or visit our website 或瀏覽

www.collezione.com.hk 08/10/2012 8:54 PM

Cru Magazine 2013-08  

A famous wine and life style magazine in Hong Kong

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