Passion for Wine and Life Cover Story
The Man Behind Paris’s Flower 巴黎之花 背後的男人 panel Tasting
A Pink Provence
粉紅色的普羅旺斯
2013 June
2013 June
HK$38
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Annual
GrandTasting Bacchus Fine Wines presents
5th, July, 2013 (Friday) 6pm - 10pm
– The American Club Hong Kong The 49th and Terrace, 49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, Hong Kong
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(no sleeveless shirt, short pants, slippers and opened shoes for gentlemen)
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– R.S.V.P info@wpress-intl.com (Mr. Lexus Loo)
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$200 Early Bird (Pay on or before 30th Jun) $300 At the Door Ticket price includes one HK$100 cash coupon redeemable for wine purchase
Winemakers Present:
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Media Partners:
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TABLE OF CONTENTS #030 June 2013
Wine
Life
釀
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Cru Speech 010 012
084 Cru Magazine Grand Tasting 2013 - 2nd Anniversary Party
Here comes summer…? 盛夏，來了嗎？ Skin Contact 「肌膚之親」
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014 Cru Corner
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Cru World of Wines
Cru Special 022 028
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The Burghound in Hong Kong: Allen Meadows on Vosne Romanée 香港的Burghound：Allen Meadows之Vosne Romanée A Pink-Hued Summer 粉紅色的仲夏
Cru Story 030 The Man Behind Paris’s Flower 巴黎之花 背後的男人
Cru Panel Tasting 034 A Pink Provence 粉紅色的普羅旺斯
生活
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The Elder Statesman – New Vintage Release of CastelGiocondo 元老級的CastelGiocondo
Cru Voyage 056 Bordeaux Pilgrimage 朝拜波爾多名莊 064 Bourgogne – the certified educator’s view. 認可導師的觀點
Cru Leader 070 Fathers & Sons of Bordeaux 波爾多的父與子
Cru Spirit
Hip Cellar ╳ Ta Pantry Private Dining & Catering Hip Cellar 品味酒窖╳ Ta Pantry星級私房菜
089 Castilla – La Mancha Asia Grand Tasting 2013 亞洲區試酒會2013 090 The Oldest Wine Kingdom 遠古的葡萄酒王國 092 Kronenbourg 1664 Street Performers Kronenbourg 1664法式街頭表演
city’super - Tour de France 「法國之旅」
093 Glenlivet Guardian Club First Anniversary Dinner Glenlivet Guardian Club週年晚宴
Hotel Life 096 The Langham, Hong Kong 香港朗廷酒店
072 The Absolute Elixir 絕對的Elixir
Cru Investment 077 En Primeur Investment (Part 2) 酒花投資指南（二）
Cru Review
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HOFEX 2013 Concludes to Great Success 畫上圓滿句號 - 2013 酒店餐飲設備商貿展
Art Life
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098 Art and Culture at HAJI 文化與藝術在夏至
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Letters from the Editors 10 Thousands Miles 萬里行 I’ve done a number of tastings and readings about the Napa AVA ( American Viticultural Area) in my wine life. But until recently when I had my first journey to all the AVAs like Oakville, Stags Leap, Yountville, etc, I could only imagine the character of the weather, soil, and geographical location of the vineyards there. In the past I could only guess what the terroir was like from tasting and the visits I had in Europe. But last month when I walked along the vineyards, I could feel the air, the fog in the morning, the bright sunshine in the afternoon, and the sea breeze at night. I could touch the soil and look at how the old vines stood in all those historical vineyards. I also visited all the wineries that joined the “Paris Tasting” back in 1976, and listened to the stories from the people who were there, although we do have the report “Judgment of Paris” by George M. Taber. Chatting with the people behind the wines and the vineyards allows you to know more about their philosophies and stories about the wines. It was also an honor to meet Paul Draper, the winemaker at Ridge Vineyards on the top of Mount Monte Bello, tasting his wines and learning a lot from him. We have a Chinese saying: “Traveling thousands of miles is better than reading thousands of scrolls.” 筆者上月作了首次的美國加州之旅，充實不過，以往在書本上看到各個Napa的AVA（美國法定酒區），不論是Oakville、Stags Leap、Yountville，書上所記載的 天氣特質、土壤、高低、位置一一呈現在眼前，印象深刻不爾。雖然也喝過不少Napa的酒釀，但往往只能以在歐洲的體驗刻畫出Napa的各種terroir。親身到訪酒 莊、葡萄園，感受著早上清涼的霧茫茫，中午的風和日麗，旁晚的清風陣陣，呼吸著Napa的空氣；能拿上手的泥土；還有一棵棵老樹葡萄藤就在眼前。
我還走遍了著名的「巴黎品試會」所參與的各個酒莊，從不同的人口中，聽到在1976發生的 重大事件中的各項細節。縱使George M. Taber的著作《Judgment of Paris》中也有很忠 實、詳盡的記錄。還有那些在種植葡萄及釀酒的人們，他們各有不同的信念，跟他們 閒聊後，再品嚐他們的酒，便會明白「好酒是如何釀成的」。在的一直很喜愛的
Ridge酒莊，在Monte Bello山上跟當年的釀酒師Paul Draper一邊品酒、一邊 聽他的釀酒哲學，讓我上了寶貴的一課。經過這超過一萬公里的行程，我真 切體會到：「讀萬卷書，不如行萬里山。」 Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com
Editorial Director : Eddie Chui
Publisher : Cru Media Limited
Features Editor : Joe Lo
Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham
Assistant Editor : Ian Wong
Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tasting Editor : Francois Luck
Tel : (852) 3568 9100
Creative Director : Jenkin Ma
Fax : (852) 3568 9101
Designer : Louise Pak
E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com
Photographer : Alvin Luk
Website : www.cru-magazine.com
Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong
Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine
Business Director : Nicholas Siu Associate Account Director : Queenie Ho Account Manager : Jon Osborne
Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196
Sales & Marketing Manager : Rachel Tung
Distrbution Service : Blackstone Concepts (852) 3481 0518
Assistant Marketing Executive : Lexus Loo
All rights reserved 版權所有，翻印必究
Circulation Manager : Simon Ha
ISSN 2221016-4
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Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines
Joe Lo Feature Editor joe@cru-magazine.com
Friends and Wine 人與酒 I’ll be honest to you—despite writing and working in wine, I’ve never been terribly picky about which wine to drink. For a hot pot meal or a simple Cantonese feast with friends, what I want is not the most prestigious wine, but perhaps a series of wines from different countries that speak their mind clearly and are the most sincere. 關於酒，從來我都不是挑剔的一方。一瓶酒，味道酒體單寧各方面質素一 流固然受盡追捧，但對筆者而言，一頓普通不過的便飯，加上幾個熟得不 能再熟的豬朋狗友聚首一堂，加上一瓶（或一堆）酒，天南地北、暢所欲 言，平凡、卻最真摯。
Ian Wong Assistant Editor ian@cru-magazine.com
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Oaked Rosé 橡木玫瑰
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There has been a recent trend over the past few years to somehow K make rosé and sauvignon blanc—wines that are usually treasured for
their freshness—more premium by storing the wine in oak barrels. But for most of the rosés and sauvignon blancs I’ve tried that underwent oak treatment, I have to say the oak and aging only dulled the youthful
Thomas Palmer Fine German wines is a boutique German wine company which specializes in the Erste Lage Riesling wines of the Nahe wine region of Germany. "Erste Lage" is the German word for the best single vineyards in Germany. Historically over hundreds of years these Erste Lage vineyards have produced the highest quality wines in Germany. Our German owned wine company is the exclusive importer and distributor in Hong Kong of five VDP Nahe wines estates and one VDP Mittelrhein wine estate:
liveliness of the wine, giving more mellow vanilla and tropical flavours that robbed the wine of its excitement. Still, there have been a few wines that left a positive impression, and for rosés I’ll say Chateau d’Esclans Garrus is elegant and refined with good minerality; it is distributed by Jebsen Fine Wines. Chêne Bleu’s Rosé from the south of France is only 20% aged in oak, it provides a good balance between freshness and complexity; look for Sarment Limited. And don’t forget to try a Rosé des Riceys, an oaked still Pinot Noir from Champagne. Contact L’Imperatrice Fine Wines for Olivier Horiot’s Rose des Riceys ‘En Valingrain’. 最近幾年的趨勢，常以兩種方式釀造Rosé和Sauvignon Blanc葡萄酒，一 種是為了保存她們的新鮮感，另一種以高價酒款為前題的會讓葡萄酒在橡 木桶中陳年。但對我來說，大多數經過橡木桶陳年的 Rosé和 Sauvignon
Tesch (2012 German Wine Maker of the Year) Kruger-Rumpf Schaefer-Froehlich (2010 German Wine Maker of the Year) Ratzenberger Dr. Crusius Gut Hermannsberg (2012 German Rising Star of the Year)
Our company's founder/director comes from a wine village in the Nahe wine region and is honored to share his culture with the people of Hong Kong. It would be a pleasure for us to provide you with recommendations of different Erste Lage Riesling Nahe wines for any occasion or to host a Erste Lage wine tasting for your next celebration or corporate event
Blanc 葡萄酒都顯得沈悶枯燥，使葡萄酒失去活力，只會增加醇厚香草 和突兀的熱帶風味。儘管如此，有幾款酒讓我留下了深刻的印象，例如
Chateau D’Esclans的Garrus酒款優雅而精緻，具有良好的礦物，她是由
Contact Information:
捷成洋酒代理。法國南部Chêne Bleu的Rosé有20%的酒在橡木桶陳釀，
Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines (H.K.) Ltd. Room 3905, Two Exchange Square Suite 8089, 8 Connaught Place, Central Tel: (852) 9137-1296 E-mail: martin@finegermanwines.hk Website: www.finegermanwines.hk
但能平衡鮮美的果香，由 Sarment 代理。還有 Rosé des Riceys ，罕有 的香檳區Rosé。要嚐試可從L’Imperatrice找到Olivier Horiot的Rose des
Riceys “En Valingrain” .
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C O N T R I B U T O R S
Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾．貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景，亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師，更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。
Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇，愛好美酒美食，大 中華酒評人協會會員，英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》，電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。
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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡．德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編，並於 1996 年與米歇爾．貝塔納 （Michel Bettane）合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南，內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師， 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地，從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師，都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述，極具天賦能力。
Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 ， 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣， Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素，以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。
Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.
Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong. Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.
劉涵濤在香港出生，於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師，2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起，曾於澳洲的南澳，維多利亞 省，法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作，現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師，亦同時用自然，低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒，「傳」。
Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗，考獲 WSET
Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.
高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師，亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course，亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。
Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生，曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作， 正職市場推廣，副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人，只有懶惰的，所以最愛試不同的美容產 品，讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。
單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名，用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite，企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上，生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食，及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業，可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。
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T a s t i n g
Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s Singtao Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師，擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》，並在 多家報章雜誌包括：《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄，亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道－美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。
Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was awarded the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒，2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格，並成為香港首批 CSW，並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體，並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書（萬里機構 出版）。
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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說，每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情，因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程，充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後，現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 ， 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。
Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判，並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一，持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格，對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。
Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny from Burgundy and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎，亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣，他先後任職於不 同酒商，包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ，並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教，曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒， 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。
P a n e l
Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師，亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程， 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ，鳳凰衛視，瑪麗嘉 兒，味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一，Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。
Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist of Spirits from the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會（ WSET ）的文憑資 格，亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士，並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗，亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。
Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA. She has attained Sommelier certification from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia.
Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.
Jordan Choy Certificated Bordeaux Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday Bordeaux 2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.
Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師，同為一
Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College
為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」，成為中國/香港的 代表，遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。
的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業，翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作，由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。
法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師（L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux），香港葡萄酒 學會導師，曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯，撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審，包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。
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T a s t i n g
Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣， 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展，並接受不同 崗位的訓練，親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化，對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛，把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師，既能發揮其 個人所長，亦可寓工作於娛樂。
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Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 ， J o rd i 現 為 A S C F i n e W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier，亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項，包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍，亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。
Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender Association. He is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t W i n e L i s t Aw a rd s 2008 and 2009, also the California Grapes International Inc., and the Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員，亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes International Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一，自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍，更於 2006
Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼
Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”
助理餐飲經理，以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師， 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師，對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍，並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮，是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師，前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。
香港最年輕侍酒師之一，Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道：「作為一名侍酒 師，我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」
Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.
Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.
年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。
Benny Chung B e n n y C h u n g i s t h e P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.
Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in finedining restaurant Cépage as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.
Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.
Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部
Gon曾留學於瑞士，修讀酒店管理課 程，回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作，現為法國餐廳Cépage的品 酒師，憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒 佳餚的搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約 七年前於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡 萄酒，也在學習上、工作上不斷加深 認識及接觸葡萄酒，越來越被這種神 之水滴所吸引。
Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久，當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間，Kevin除了在工作中不斷
項目經理，熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格，同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。
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汲取經驗外，更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程，成為一位出色的品酒師，對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師，對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉，當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。
天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣，母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多，曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作，亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作，自此愛上亞 洲，現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。
Katrina於2006年加入飲食業，現正 於香港日航酒店工作，主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她，已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽，不但成功進入香港區五 強，最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍，被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。
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A taste of Bordeaux - 7 Days Fine Wine Tour 30 June - 6 July 2013
During the exceptional tour, you will... • Visit the most prestigious World-Class Chateaux, such as Haut-Brion, Mouton Rothschild, Cheval Blanc, Smith Haut Lafitte, Troplong Mondot, Pichon Baron... • Create your own blend of wine by joining the Blend Your Own Wine Workshop • Accompanied by a HK wine specialist in small group size • Reside in Chateau Beychevelle, known as the Versailles of the Médoc • Enjoy fabulous food in Michelin starred restaurants and exclusive private dining at prestigious chateaux. HK$44,600 per person (double occupancy) + Air Fare Tailor-made wine tour is available upon request
Hip-wine.indd 1
30/5/13 11:49 PM
T a s t i n g
Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師，現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師，曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍，被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。
Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request. Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間，由 公關到宴會搞手，到作家與記者、導 師，她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。
從事飲食業十多年，Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 ， 曾 為 G r a n d C r u ( C o v a G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。
來自意大利 Friuli ，長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理，現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。
Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Central Wine Club. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年，曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師，現為 Central Wine Club的品酒師。
剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。
曾於澳洲留學，Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師，現 為Mamoz餐飲經理。
品酒師；葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家，亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。
Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師，從事多年飲食界相關行 業，經驗豐富，現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒，希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。
Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.
Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.
Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage.
Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年，曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作，現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。
Andy She Andy is now the Sommelier of Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel. He had also worked at Cuisine Cuisine and The French Window, Langham Hotel as Sommelier. In 2013, He was qualified Senior Sommelier level and being the committee of HKSA.
Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作，包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille，Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines，現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。
資深新聞工作者，葡萄酒愛好者， 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。
Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Hong Kong. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.
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Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.
Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET.
Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.
充滿熱情。
Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.
Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the manager of Mamoz.
Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.
Vincent是香港朗廷酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年，Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣
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Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。他剛
Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證
Andy是香港萬麗海景酒店的品酒師, 曾任職國金軒、The French Window及 尖沙咀朗廷酒店的品酒師。2013年考 獲香港專業品酒師協會認可的資深品 酒師會員資格及擔任協會委員.
Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar.
擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書，Don曾 於Domani，香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作，現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。
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T a s t i n g
Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fook Lam Moon. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred hotels including InterContinental Hong Kong, RitzCarlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年，曾於不同 的五星級酒店工作，包括：香港洲 際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅 香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒 專業資格，也是香港專業品酒師協 會會員。
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Danny Ng Danny is a recognized member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. He is now the Assistant Chief Sommelier/ Assistant Bar Manager of American Club. He had worked at St. Betty as Sommelier. Also, he had worked in “Church St. Enotica” Italian one Hat Restaurant in Melbourne Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He is studying the WSET Diploma Level 4.
Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Langham Place Mongkok and the China Club. As a senior member of the HKSA, she also has an certificated Specialist of Wine, Joey is now the Wine Cellar Manager & Sommelier of Hip Cellar Limited.
作為香港品酒師協會認可會 員 ， Danny 持 有 香 港 葡 萄 酒 教 育 中心第三級，現於美國會任職助 理品酒師，亦曾於 Betty’s Kitchen 任職品酒師。曾於澳洲墨爾本 「 Church St. Enotica」意大利餐廳 工作一年，亦是他認識葡萄酒和鍾 情於澳洲葡萄酒的地方。 Danny 現 正修讀WSET文憑第四級。
Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐 飲管理學士學位課程，畢業後於美 國 Renaissance Hotel實習，曾在香 港君悅酒店、旺角朗豪酒店及中國 會工作，考獲 CSW證書的 Joey亦為 香港專業品酒師協會高級品酒師之 一。現於Hip Cellar Limited擔任酒 窖經理及侍酒師
Vincent Chue Vincent Chue received fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄 酒訓練，並取得WSET的進階證書， 同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲 得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班 牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理，對 西班牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。
Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments, Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高 級品酒師，曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團 及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集團品酒師、香 港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines和Houghton Wines酒窖員 工，著有葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書 籍《Wine Me》。
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Unit 8, 15/F., Wah Wai Centre, 38-40 Au Pui Wan Street, Fotan Shatin, N.T., Hong Kong 31/5/13 12:37 PM
010
Cru Speech
Here comes summer…? 盛夏，來了嗎？
English Text : Ian Symonds // Translation : Eddie Chui
It’s English, or even British, to always complain about the weather,
英國人對天氣不勝其煩地去埋怨著，因此有著澳洲人的一句俚語：
hence ‘whinging poms’ from Australian slang. But, here in Hong Kong
「whinging poms」來形容他們。就在這陣子，香港人都在談論著天氣如何
just at the moment the gossip seems all about how bad the weather
的壞，好一陣子都是炭天黑地。在街道上我們經常能聽到人們這樣說：「以
is! ‘It’s never been this bad in the past’ is commonly expressed in any
前都沒有試過這麼久的壞天氣！」這樣的天氣下，我們應該喝些什麼來舒緩
language! So, what wines to alleviate this terrible weather when the
這種令人不爽的天氣呢？
average Hong Kong resident finally gets five minutes to spare? 我的學生最近對在西班牙北部以Verdejo葡萄（在葡萄牙稱為Verdelho）釀造
My recent students have been terribly impressed with Northern
的Rueda葡萄酒感到非常讚賞。她帶有輕輕的香氣、清爽的酸度、柑橘的味
Spanish Rueda made from the Verdejo (Verdelho in Portugal) grape.
道，非常清新怡人。另一款很相似的酒款來自Rias Baixas，在西班牙東北部
It is lightly aromatic, crisply acidic, citrus flavours and very refreshing.
最頂端的位置，該地區名為Galicia。在這裡，葡萄品種是Albarino（葡萄牙
A close runner is from Rias Baixas in the very top NE corner of Spain,
稱為Alvarinho），外皮略厚一點，他們實驗性地把她釀造成較豐厚的酒款，
the area known as Galicia. The grape here is the thicker-skinned
並以橡木桶陳釀。相反，在葡萄牙，她被釀成清爽、輕怡的酒款，跟 Vinho
Albarino (Alvarinho in Portugal) and is made into a slightly fuller style
Verde 風格相近。他們通常以 Pergolas 方法種植，一種較少見的棚架種植
of white as experimentation with oak and age is occurring. In Portugal
法，比一般的葡萄園看上去更吸引。但這種種植方法，我們需要狀態良好的
the grape is famous for the very light bodied and extraordinarily fresh
葡萄農去修剪、採收葡萄園。
Vinho Verde style. These grapes are often grown using pergolas, an overhead system of training vines that looks far more attractive than
我也希望這些酒釀能賣得不錯，畢竟我不是 Pinot Gris 或意大利北部 Pinot
more normal vineyards. I am certain however that training, picking and
Grigio風格的酒款愛好者。當然在盛夏這些酒絕對是消暑良方，但另外的兩
pruning are exercises for the incredibly fit grower.
款西班牙、葡萄牙酒釀我覺得更適合、更美味。澳洲人在葡萄酒方便的觸覺 十分敏銳，很快便已經有些生產商開始釀造Verdelho。
I am keen to see these wines sell well as I am not a great lover of the rather bland wine that comes in either the Pinot Gris style or the N. Italian Pinot
但大家必需注意的是，不要把這些酒存放多於一年，應該盡快享用，否則在
Grigio style. They have a place on hot days when cooling is required but
酒瓶內，他們的鮮甜美味很快便會流失。
the two Spanish and/or Portuguese wines are more pleasurable to drink. The Australians are not slow to see a good thing in the grape world and Verdelho is available from producers ‘down-under’.
在課堂上，我們也十分喜愛來自 Loire Valley 西端，以 Melon Blanc 釀 造的Muscadet葡萄酒。她配以新鮮、簡單烹調的海鮮確是絕配，在 英國 Gordon Ramsey 及 Rick Stein 的餐廳，都能在酒牌上發現這種酒
Let me just take a line to say – never drink these wines from more than
釀。Rick Stein更加是炮製海鮮佳餚的表表者，要在本地品嚐這級數的新鮮
a year or so ago. Their freshness out of the bottle is their downfall as
美味海鮮，可以到澳門IFT的餐廳試一下大廚 David Wong 的手勢，他也曾
they age very quickly.
經在Rick Stein的餐廳工作。
In classes we also like Muscadet from the west end of the Loire Valley,
但從 Loire 來的消息，不少葡萄農都因為不同的原因放棄種植這款有趣的
Cru Speech_Ian symonds2.indd 1
3/6/13 11:28 AM
011
“
Reds: more difficult and I think we are all beginning to realize that generally speaking whites pair better than reds with our local food! 紅酒方面，的確是較難選上，而且經過一段時間，大家 都會認為我們本地的菜餚用來跟葡萄酒配搭時，白葡萄 酒比紅的更容易相襯。
”
the Melon blanc grape. It’s a real star with fresh, simply prepared sea food and I read is on the lists of both Gordon Ramsey’s and Rick Stein’s restaurants in the UK. The latter no surprise as he is the sea food chef of all chefs; to taste that real desire for fresh sea food more locally try the IFT Educational restaurant in Macau where Chef David Wong is an ex-Stein employee. Sadly the news from that end of the Loire is not good as many Melon blanc growers appear to giving up for various reasons. It’s a steal at well under HK$200 a bottle; again only buy recent vintages! Having written all of this my personal favourite still has to be Chablis. I see the quality going up and up even with some changes in style. Prices are not as terrible as one may think – the range from La Chablisienne is
Melon Blanc葡萄。在香港，以不到二百塊錢便能買到這樣美味的酒，實在
very favourably priced right up to Grand Cru level and widely available
是難得。但同樣不要買些太舊的年份啊。
in Hong Kong. These wines can age but drink beautifully when young even though real wine geeks might think it a sin to do so.
說到這裡，我個人最喜愛的始終是Chablis。品質正不斷進步，甚至風格也有 點改變。價錢也不是一般人想像的高貴。例如La Chablisienne的整個系列，
Reds: more difficult and I think we are all beginning to realize that
由普通的酒款至特級田都價格合理，而且不難在市場上找得到。有些是可以
generally speaking whites pair better than reds with our local food!
陳年一段時間，但就算是年青時飲用也是非常美味，當然有人認為這是糟蹋
Thoughts on a post card please? That also said why not try what might
了這些上等佳釀。
be termed ‘everyday’ Bourgogne – as we are supposed to be calling Burgundy. In class we are always amazed by Vincent Girardin’s AC
紅酒方面，的確是較難選上，而且經過一段時間，大家都會認為我們本地的
Bourgogne – Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2010 – this is a deal at comfortably
菜餚用來跟葡萄酒配搭時，白葡萄酒比紅的更容易相襯。要想一句標語嗎？
under HK$200 from Altaya. The same supplier also stocks the
我想「每天勃艮第」會是不錯的選擇。在課堂上我們試過了由Altaya代理的
Domaine De Montille range and we are always amazed that premier
Vincent Girardin AC Bourgogne Cuvée Saint Vincent 2010，作為一款不
cru Bourgogne from the less favoured sites is really typical and with
多於二百圓的酒釀，表現實在出色。他們也代理 Domaine de Montille的系
excellent flavours, for example the Beaune 1er Cru Les Sizies is superb
列，當中有不少令人回味的一級田酒款，雖然是來自較不出名的地段，但味
value at around HK$360 from the warehouse and HK$435 from the
道卻很出色，例如Beaune 1er Cru Les Sizies的性價比實在一流，直銷價只
‘etc’ shop. A group of us enjoyed this wine with smoked duck risotto
需$360，就算在etc的店面也只需要$435。我們最近試過以這酒釀去配襯煙
recently – a pairing made in heaven.
鴨肉意大利飯，實在是一流的嘗試。
Summer whites and reds – bring on the sunshine please.
要好好享受這些屬於夏天的紅、白葡萄酒，太陽啊，快點出來吧。
Cru Speech_Ian symonds.indd 2
30/5/13 11:21 PM
012
Cru Speech
Skin Contact 皮膚接觸 English Text : Han Tao Lau Translation : Eddie Chui
hen most people see wine grapes for the first time, they are often
當大多數人第一次看到釀酒葡萄，他們常常驚訝於小漿果相比食用葡
surprised by how small the berries are compared to table grapes.
萄。根據葡萄品種以及生長條件，大多數釀酒葡萄的大小大約只有一夥
Depending on the grape variety, clone, as well as the growing conditions,
大藍莓。
most wine grapes are only about the size of a large blueberry. 其原因是，食用葡萄需要多汁的果肉，而釀酒葡萄，香味是最重要的素
The reason is that while table grapes need to be juicy and fleshy, with
質，而大部分香味化合物都存在葡萄的果皮上。因此，葡萄越小，葡萄
wine grapes, flavour is the most important criterion, and most of the
皮對比果汁的的比例便越大，而這樣的話我們便能得到更濃郁的味道，
flavour compounds are found in the skins. As a result, the smaller the
不論是果汁還是釀成的葡萄酒。
berry, the greater the skin to juice ratio, and hence the more concentrated the flavour would be in the resulting juice and wine.
但究竟是如何從葡萄皮上提取的這些味道呢？在釀酒過程中，第一個步 驟通常是除去枝梗，然後馬上將葡萄榨壓。
So how is this flavour extracted from the skins? In winemaking, the first step usually is for the stems to be removed, and for the berries to be
我們的術語中「 crushing」其實有點誤導，因為這個術語表明相當暴力
crushed soon after.
的程序。實際上我們並非用攪拌器般打爛粉碎葡萄，最現代的榨壓機的 構造採用兩枝滾軸，在中間開出間隙（通常是可以調節大小的）。葡萄
The term “crushing” in actual fact a bit misleading, in that the terminology
會跌入這間隙，滾筒輕輕壓破葡萄，關鍵是要讓葡萄釋放出果汁和果皮
suggests quite a violent action. Rather than pulverizing the grapes
上的味道化合物。如果葡萄被壓的力道太重，果核將會破裂，因而釋放
however, most modern crushers are constructed of two rollers, with a
出苦味的丹寧酸和味道。但是，我們是否去榨壓葡萄，很大程度上取決
gap (usually adjustable in size) in the middle. The berries fall into this gap,
於所釀的酒是什麼風格。
and the rollers gently split the berry – the key is to help release the juice from the berries and the flavour compounds from the skins. If the berries
另一項重要的步驟便是從果皮中提取香氣及味道，通常稱為果皮接觸
are crushed too hard, the seeds will be split, releasing bitter tannins and
（ skin contact），或浸皮。這程序主要是將葡萄皮跟壓榨出來的果汁浸
flavours. However, whether crushing takes place or not depends very
泡在一起。釀造紅葡萄酒時，這是一個不可或缺的步驟，因為提取單寧
much on the wine style.
和紅色色素是釀酒中很重要的環節，而且多數是在發酵當中或發酵後還 會持續進行的工序。
The other major step in extracting flavours from skins is known as skin contact, or maceration. This is the process where grape skins are left
白葡萄酒方面，泡著果皮發酵是比較少見的，但這技術正在慢慢普及起
to soak in their juice. When making red wines, this is an essential step
來。在大多數情況下，一旦從葡萄皮上提取了足夠的味道，果皮便會被
as it is critical to extracting both tannins and red pigments and indeed,
壓榨棄掉，只剩下果汁繼續發酵。這種浸皮的方法，可能持續只有半小
continues during and sometimes after fermentation.
時，也可以長達 12小時或更久。
With white wines, fermentation on skins is relatively rare although it is
並不是所有的釀酒師都會在釀造白葡萄酒時選擇以上提到的浸皮方法。
a technique that is slowly gaining in popularity. In most cases however,
因為在浸樣皮過程中，除了會增加更多的風味外，同是也有會提取到酚
once enough flavour has been extracted into the juice, the skins are
類成份，使葡萄酒帶過多的單寧，粗糙感和苦澀的味道。浸皮也會釋放
pressed, and only the juice is fermented. This period of skin contact can
出更多的鹽份，提高果汁的 pH值，並降低她的酸度。同時更多的色素也
vary from as little as half an hour to 12hrs or more.
會被釋放，酒色看上去會較暗淡。
Cru Speech_HanTao.indd 1
4/6/13 3:03 PM
013
Not all winemakers choose to allow their whites to go through skin
picked, then transported on the back of the truck in over 30˚C conditions
contact because apart from adding more flavour, skin contact can also
to the winery which was 8 hours away. The whole time, the skins were
add more phenolics, which can make the wine taste more tannic, coarse,
left soaking in its own juices and arrived at the winery with fermentation
and bitter. Skin contact can also release more salts from the skins, thus
already underway. The wine was subjected to quite a complex fining
increasing the juice’s pH and decreasing its acidity. Colour pigments can
regime, and despite the crude conditions that this wine was subjected to
also be released, making the wine darker in appearance.
early in its life, 40 years later, it was still clean and vibrant, and in no way phenolic. It just makes me wonder how this wine would have turned out
Traditional-method, bottle-fermented sparkling wines rarely undergo
if it had been handled in a gentler, more refined manner.
skin contact, as the wine’s high acidity and bubbles can accentuate any phenolic characters. In most cases, a highly acidic, clean base wine with a minimum of phenolics, with few overtly fruity characters, is desired.
傳統方法釀造，在瓶中進行第二次發酵的氣泡酒絕少進行浸皮這工序，
As such, a more gentle technique known as whole-bunch pressing is
因為這些酒的酸度較高，很容易會過分加強從果皮釋出的酚類等成份的
normally employed, where whole bunches of hand-picked grapes are
影響。在大多數情況下，高酸度，乾淨帶最少份量的酚的基酒是最理想
pressed directly without any crushing or destemming, thus extracting
的。因此採用較為柔和的榨壓技術，以人手採摘的葡萄會整串用來輕力
clean juice that is low in phenolics and high in acidity.
壓榨，不經過除梗及榨壓，從而提取乾淨的果汁，酸度高而不帶酚。
A lot of high quality Chardonnays, especially those fermented in barrels,
現在，大多數的高品質 Chardonnay，尤其是那些在橡木桶發酵的，也多
are also made by whole-bunch pressing nowadays, again to preserve
以整葡萄的輕壓榨方式，來保存酸度並盡量減少酚，因為這些元素會籍
acidity and to minimize phenolics, which the oak barrels will also
由橡木陳年時提取得到。
contribute to. 在 德 國 ， 許 多 質 量 最 高 ， 壽 命 最 長 的 Riesling 會 採 用 一 些 浸 皮 的 方 法 ，
In Germany, many of the highest quality, longest-lived Rieslings are
有時持續多於 12小時。許多釀酒師認為，浸皮可從中提取鹽分，為酒添
made with some skin contact, sometimes lasting more than 12 hours.
加礦物風味。由於葡萄往往在高酸度和低 pH值時採收，浸皮不會產生太
Many winemakers there believe that the salts extracted from the skins
大的問題。在澳洲，由於天然的酸度往往較低而酚的水平較高，大部分
contribute to a greater degree of minerality. Because the grapes tend to
的 Riesling生產商傾向於較短的浸皮時間，如果有這樣需要的話。
be harvested with high acidity and a low pH, the effect of skin contact on these parameters is not a big concern. In Australia, where natural
有時候，浸皮可以不是故意造成的，但結果可以帶來不少驚喜。去年，
acidities tend to be lower and phenolic levels higher, most Riesling
我有幸品嚐到一款令人難以置信地印象深刻、清新而帶美妙結構的澳洲
producers tend to favour shorter skin contact times, if it is carried out
Riesling，那是 1970年代的油釀，而且是在一個 Riesling不太出名的產區
at all.
所釀造的。據負責此酒的釀酒師之一，葡萄是以機器採摘，然後運上卡 車，在超過 30˚C 溫度下經過8小時的路程，才運到酒莊中。整段時間，
Occasionally, skin contact can be quite unintentional, but with stunning
葡萄的汁液一直跟葡萄皮浸泡著，在抵達酒莊的時候，發酵已經自然開
results. Last year, I was lucky enough to taste an incredibly deep, fresh,
始了。這酒經過很複雜的澄清過程，儘管這款酒釀經歷了如此苛刻的條
and beautifully structured Australian Riesling from the 1970’s, sourced
件而釀成，在40年後仍然年青，表現得很潔淨而且充滿活力，一點也不
from a region not particularly renowned for this variety. According to
覺得受到酚的影響。如果當初她不是被如此粗獷對待，而是溫柔細緻地
one of the winemakers responsible for this wine, the fruit was machine
處理，不知到底現在會變成如斯的模樣呢。
Cru Speech_HanTao.indd 2
4/6/13 3:03 PM
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014
Corner 2013
June
Wine Library – Madison Fine Wine 美酒圖書館，感受Fine Wine的境界
C
M
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ach wine lover has their own story on how they fell in love with wine. There is more than just wine behind each bottle, and the process of exploring the myriad stories behind every wine is wonderful and nostalgic. The two CEOs of Madison Wine, Bruce Chu and Raymond Ting, have discovered a great deal of amazing wines over the past few years, identifying favourites and meeting many great friends, but they’ve also shared a lot of emotions and experiences over those memorable bottles. By creating Madison Wine, they
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hope to unite these wines and emotions by bringing fantastic wines to Hong Kong, providing a platform for sharing and discussion. Today there are many wine merchants in the city, and many types of wines sold. As long as people can spend, there are icon wines and prestigious labels to be obtained. But that isn’t the type of wine that Bruce enjoys. Madison Wine aims to please those who love wine, those who like to collect and recommend other wines—those wines that aren’t featured merely because of price and rating, but rather through real
experience; only then can wines be shared with joy. 每一位愛酒之人，都有著他們 各自愛上葡萄酒的故事。對愛 酒、惜酒的人來說，一瓶珍貴 的葡萄酒不止有著其背後的故 事，而發掘每一款酒的過程亦 是奇妙而有趣的。 Madison Wine的兩位總裁Bruce Chu 和Raymond Ting也是其中一員，他 們兩位在過去幾年間花了很多心 思，由世界各地搜羅了許多好酒作 為收藏，也因此而認識了許多好朋 友，亦透過一起分享對酒的感受 與心得而更加愛酒。開設Madison Wine除了把美酒文化傳開之外，更 是一個讓朋友們分享美酒與交流的
絕佳平台與空間。 現今城中酒商林立，各式各樣 的葡萄美酒比比皆是，只要敢 於一擲千金的話，再名貴的稀 世珍釀也能夠得到，可是卻沒 有了Bruce所說的那種收藏美酒 的快樂。Madison Wine的宗旨 在於讓愛酒的人能夠在這裡挑 選、收集和推薦更多佳釀，所 謂佳釀，並不是價錢和評分所 能定位的，而是通過真實的體 驗，發掘真正收藏與分享美酒 的樂趣。 Madison Wine Addres s地址： 20 Queen’s Way, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔皇后大道東20 號 Tel 電話：2827 7288
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2013 年波尔多国际葡萄酒及烈酒展览会（vinexpo) 希 腊葡萄酒展区（一号厅，CD 29展位） 欢迎您的到来！
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Prunotto of Marchesi Antinori 由Antinori打造的Prunotto
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ast month Cru Magazine joined local wine distributors Links Concept Limited and Hong Kong’s wine media for a luncheon at Amaroni’s Little Italy in Hysan Place to taste the magical Piedmontese wines of Prunotto. Alongside generous servings of bruschetta, stuffed mushrooms, and Iberico Pork Pate, we tried Prunotto Barbaresco 2009, which though young, was ripe, soft and mellow. Then interestingly we
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were served a Barbera d’Asti afterwards, Prunotto “Costamiole Vineyard” 2008, which did as well as wine can pair with soup (Cream of Mushroom). Afterwards, we tried one of their top wines, Prunotto Barolo 2005 from Bussia, one of the best single vineyard sites in the region. Powerful, ripe, and complex with a great balance of fruit, spices, and earth, it is asscessible now, but requires a few hours of decanting. Lastly, we finished off this great
lunch with fresh mango panna cotta, and an equally refreshing and tropical Prunotto Moscato d’Asti 2011. 我們上月參加了Links Concept 的傳媒體午餐，在希慎廣場的 Amaroni ’ s Little Italy品嚐了 意大利北部名莊Prunotto。除 了美味的麵包、釀香菇，西 班牙黑手豬肝醬等，我們還 品嚐了Prunotto的Barbaresco 2 0 0 9 ，雖 然 年 輕 ， 但 展 現 成 熟，柔和圓潤的口感。然後是
Barbera d’Asti，Prunotto “Costamiole Vineyard”2008， 跟蘑菇忌廉很合襯。之後， 我們品嚐了頂級Prunotto Barolo“Bussia”2005，來自 該地區最好的單一葡萄園之 一。強而有力，成熟，充滿 果香、香辛料，略帶泥土氣 息，收結平衡而複雜，她現在 能享用，但需要幾個小時的醒 酒。最後，我們享用新鮮的芒 果奶凍，配以同樣清爽怡人的 Prunotto Moscato d’Asti 2011， 來完成了這頓豐富的午餐。
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Passion for Pinot A Sense of Place
Share with the experts at our premier wine event of the year!
Altaya Wines invites you along an amazing journey of the world’s best Pinot Noirs with the top producers from Burgundy, New Zealand, Australia and the USA. Discover each country’s beautiful expression of terroir and how this grape varietal reflects its true home. Moderated by Australia’s renowned wine commentator, Nick Stock Masterclass with seven winemakers A sensational food & wine pairing dinner at Hyatt Regency Ballroom
Nick Stock, Moderator Crowned twice as ‘Australian Sommelier of the Year’, Nick Stock is one of Australia’s most prolific wine commentators. His frank and fearless style has made him one of the most popular and widely read Australian wine personalities, culminating in his global recognition as Best Drinks Journalist at the World Food Media Awards in 2007 and his recent award for Best Wine Tourism Feature at the 2012 Born Digital Awards in London. Nick is also the best-selling author of The Age / The Sydney Morning Herald Good Wine Guide, as well as a sought-after commentator, event host and presenter.
Book Now!
Featuring
29 June 2013, Saturday 4:00pm: Masterclass 6:30pm-10:00pm: Dinner
Burgundy, France Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron Domaine Michel Magnien Domaine Vincent Girardin
Regency Ballroom Hyatt Regency (Tsim Sha Tsui) 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon
New Zealand Ata Rangi / Pyramid Valley / Rippon
HK$950 (early bird before 13 June ) HK$1,150 (rsvp after 14 June) inclusive of masterclass and dinner
USA Beaux Frères / Cristom Vineyards
To RSVP, call 3669 1974 / email summer@altayawines.com Limited seats available, book early to avoid disappointment
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Australia Giant Steps / Yabby Lake
For more information, visit www.altayawines.com and ‘Like’ us on Facebook
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Foggy Vineyards
霧中葡萄園— Peter Michael Winery
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onoma County in California is famous for it’s contrasts: fog rolls in every morning before the sun ripens the fruit, while again at night the cool weather preserves acidity in the wine. Sonoma County wines aren’t at all what one would expect from a prototypical California wine, and the purity of the terroir is reflected in this unique region. Established in 1982, Peter Michael Winery was inspired by the elegant wines
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of Bordeaux and Burgundy, which showcased aptly the terroir and land from which they came from. Following their winemaking techniques, the wines are all aged in French oak, weekly “bâtonnage” takes place (where the settled yeasts of the wine are stirred), and only native fermentation is used. This results in a series of single-vineyard and estateplanted Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and other Bordeaux blend wines. The name of each
wine reflects a small story in his family’s history, giving an interesting personal touch. 位於美國加州的Sonama County以其「霧鎖葡萄園」 的景色而著名，日照強烈 而且日夜溫差大令Sonoma County擁有加州釀酒地區中 一處非常獨特的風土氣候。於 1 9 8 2 年 成 立 的 P e t e r M ic h a e l Winery是Sonoma County中 一所深受波爾多和勃艮第啟 發的酒莊，出產著展現當地 獨特風土的優雅酒款。Peter
Michael Winery 採用法國橡 木桶，依照法式傳統釀酒方法 如每週攪動桶中的酒液等，釀 出多款單一葡萄園及莊園種植 的 C h a r d o n n a y 、 P i n o t N o i r 及其他Bordeaux Blend。每 一款酒的命名也有著莊主家族 的故事，非常有意思。
Enquiry: Altaya Wines Tel: 2523 1945 Website: www.altayawines.com
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Pining for Oysters 生蠔情意結
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his could be just a guess, but I’m sure that many people in Hong Kong are in love with oysters. They love the unique slipperiness of the flesh, the sweet taste of the meat, the fresh and saline essence that conveys the fragrance of the ocean water. However, many of the city’s restaurants and bars only have four or five varieties, with the most common of these being Coffin Bay, Fine de Claire, or Irish Rock. It seems that often I can find nothing else, and for those who want to taste different types of fresh oysters from around the world, this is sometimes a little disappointing. So oyster lovers should definitely be intrigued by the selection at The Bostonian Restaurant at the Langham Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, which stocks over 40 varieties of oysters at its bar. In addition to the common selection, there are also many more rare oysters such as Chilean Chiloe, which are slender and crisp, with a salty taste of the sea, Strange Ford from the UK, which are refreshing and fruity, and the thin and smoky Donnegal oysters from Ireland. Last month at The Bostonian, Michael Filippidis, a health expert
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from Southern Australia who is known as Oyster Mike, held a masterclass involving raw food and oysters. There were suggested wine pairings, as well as tips and great information about making raw food delicious. But even if you go normally, the staff at The Bostonian are very well versed in oyster knowledge, and can help you out with new choices. So if you love oysters, this is definitely a restaurant not to miss. 相信許多人對生蠔都有著一種 特別的情意結，愛它的滑溜肉 質、鮮甜無比的味道、充滿 清新獨特的海洋氣息。然而許 多城中的餐廳酒吧供應的蠔款 也只有四五款，而且來來去 去都是Coffin Bay、Fine de Claire、Irish Rock等隨口也能 說出幾種的大路蠔款，對於想 品嘗更多世界各地新鮮生蠔的 人也未免太乏味了。 位於尖沙咀朗廷酒店的The Bostonian餐廳相信會是愛蠔者 的最新熱點，皆因每一晚The Bostonian的蠔吧上都會供應四 十多款來自世界各地的生蠔， 除了常見的蠔款外，有許多較 為少見的蠔款例如：來自智利 的Chilean Chiloe，尺寸較大、 帶咸爽的海水味；身型幼長的 英國Strange Ford，清爽得來有 果香；蠔殼薄如透明的愛爾蘭
Donnegal，味道較中性富咸香。 日前The Bostonian更由來自 南澳洲的生蠔專家Michael Filippidis（人稱Oyster Mike） 親自主持了一場生蠔品酒大師 班，講述生蠔配酒技巧之餘亦 即場教授開蠔和品蠔貼士。雖 然Oyster Mike並不會長期駐 於The Bostonian，但原來The Bostonian內負責開蠔的工作人
員長期處理大量不同品種的生 蠔，早已經對各種生蠔寥如指 掌，足以應付愛蠔客的熱烈提 問！所以愛蠔的您、甚至是不懂 蠔的您也不要錯過了。 The Bostonian The Langham Hong Kong Address: 8 Peking Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 2132 7898 Website: hongkong.langhamhotels.com
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Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial 皇族的粉紅香檳
and berry aromas, although there is a wonderful peppery finish. Moët & Chandon一直以來都是
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oët & Chandon has always been a symbol of French aristocracy; its beautiful and delicate wines with dense bubbles have been loved by generation after generation of royalty, and the word Imperial shows its blueblooded identity. Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial is a romantic pink
hued wine which attracts many ladies with its charm. About 4050% of the wine is Pinot Noir, which brings out concentrated fruit, 30-40% is Pinot Meunier, which increases the roundness of the wine, and the 10-20% of Chardonnay gives elegance to the finished product. Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial exudes ripe red fruit
法國貴族的風尚標誌，其絕美的 酒質與細膩綿密的氣泡更令從 前的皇室貴族所鍾愛，更把這 香檳冠上 Impérial 一字，奠定它 的藍血身份。 Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial 以浪漫的粉紅色 酒液吸引著眾多名媛仕女的喜 愛，由約40至50%的 Pinot Noir 帶出其集中的果香；30至40%的 Pinot Meunier 給予整體的圓潤 度；以及10至20%的Chardonnay 帶來優雅的感覺。Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial散發出成 熟的紅色水果及漿果香，亦帶些 微的胡椒氣息。 Enquiry: Moët Hennessy Diageo Hong Kong Ltd. Tel: 2976 1888 Website: www.mhdhk.com
The Fifth Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival ﹣ San Miguel BeerFest 香港龍舟嘉年華‧生力啤酒節
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ith the height of summer approaching, The Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival’s San Miguel BeerFest will be held on June 21st-23rd at the UC Centenary Garden in East Tsim Sha Tsui. Every year the Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival invites both local and
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international teams from over 20 countries to compete in this ancient sport, while spectators and revelers can enjoy San Miguel and cheer on the participating athletes. Along with the celebrations, there will also be the “Sizzling Asian Rock” concert, where local rock bands will ensure that all
the action won’t be happening in the water. 盛夏將至，「香港龍舟嘉年 華 ‧生 力 啤 酒 節 」 將 於 6 月 2 1 日至23日重臨尖東市政局百周 年紀念花園。一年一度的香港 龍舟嘉年華都會邀請來自世界 各地的龍舟精英參與，而生力 更是每年都會以冰凍的啤酒為
健兒們打氣助陣，為一邊欣賞 緊張刺激的龍舟賽事、一邊享 受著「亞洲搖滾新勢力」的一 眾人氣樂團及歌手熱情表演的 觀眾帶來熾熱氣氛中的冰爽感 覺，盡情歡渡端午節！
More Information: www.facebook.com/san miguel.hk
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A Pearl for each mood, for each moment...
Impulsive and cheerful in one moment and romantic and sexy in the next.
Goes well with: A Smile...
Only Exclusive in Apex Cellar www.apexcellar.com.hk Apex.indd 1
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The Burghound in Hong Kong:
Allen Meadows on Vosne Romanée Burghound在香港: Allen Meadows之Vosne Romanée English Text & Images: Ian Wong // Translation: Hei Cheng
Even months before the fateful week in April, there were hushed whispers
在四月發生重大事項的數個月前，城中已透露 Burghound將會蒞臨香港的
that the Burghound was coming to town. Those that heard early quickly
消息。知情人士便迅速行動，聯絡相熟的勃艮第進口商，查詢有否任何活
approached their trusted Burgundy importers and asked if there were
動。而有關 Burghound的晚宴、大師班和午餐會，即獲大肆宣傳，而且幾
any events planned. Dinners, masterclasses, and luncheons with the
乎即時售罄。
Burghound were advertised, and almost immediately sold out. 因為任何認識和有意學習勃艮第的人，都聽過 Burghound的名字，在芸芸
Because for anyone who is familiar or who has ever thought of learning more
探索美酒奧秘的酒評中，以最它為著名。諷刺的是，營運 Burghound.com
about Burgundy, one name stands out amongst all the critics who attempt
的，並非勃艮第人、法國人，甚至歐洲人，而是一位叫 Allen Meadows的
to categorize the mysteries of these exquisite wines. And the great irony
美國人。 Burghound.com每三個月一次的酒評，讓 Meadows成為最有名聲
is that the most acclaimed and trusted of these critics is not Burgundian,
和信譽的酒評家。
French, or even European for that matter, but instead an American called Allen Meadows who runs Burghound.com, a quarterly review that has established Meadows as the most trusted critic on the region in the world.
又是美國人，又是傳奇法國地區的權威，有點似曾相識吧！放 心 ， Meadows 不 是 另 一 位 Parker ， 不 是 用 100 分 的 評 分 制 度 。 雖 然
Burghound如其他人一樣，擁有自己的個人喜好，但其酒評絕對公正，而 But if an American becoming the undeniable authority to a storied French
且從消費者的角度出發，不會用過多抽象的形容詞，不會描述酒的質感和
region sounds frighteningly familiar, worry not, as Meadows is not another
平衡度，或在文中打分。他講解他的酒評制度時，他說：「我希望人們對
Parker with his 100-point wines. Although the Burghound certainly has a
90分的酒說『這個極奇的好』，對於 95分的酒說『無可匹敵的好』。」（
personal preference like any other human being, his reports are unbiased
他只有一次給予 100分的記錄，那就是 1945 Domaine Romanée-Conti，我
and very relatable to from a consumer’s point of view. He doesn’t use
們姑且原諒他一次。）
a plethora of obscure adjectives to describe a wine, instead describing textures and balance, providing wine scores within context—when
Meadows走遍整個勃艮第，卻在 2012年，只挑出一條特定村來研究，並
explaining his score system, he told us that, “I want people to be saying
自家出版了一本書，名為《 Pearl of the Côte: The Great Wines of Vosne
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Romanée》。它罕有地逐一分析村內每個葡萄園，更顯露了他對傳奇葡萄 Winery: Domaine Mongeard Mugneret Vineyard: En Orveaux Vintage: 2008 What Meadows said: “For En Orveaux, a plot lower on the slope is better than one too high because there are tall trees on the top of the vineyard. Every day the shadows will cause the grapes to lose 30 minutes of sunshine, which may not sound like a lot, but for a region that has always suffered under-ripeness, this can be a key factor over 100 days.” Our thoughts: “Incredible length and tartness. Very fine and balanced; the oak is there, but well integrated. Dark, forest-fruit complexity. Light ruby colour with a touch of vanilla on the nose.”
酒的熱愛，和無人能比的知識。
2013年4月23日，我們榮幸地獲L’Imperatrice邀請，出席「Pearl of the Côte 大師班」，L’Imperatrice是本地葡萄酒批發商，經營勃艮第星級釀酒師的傑 作。在兩小時內，Burghound帶領我們品嚐每一款Vosne Romanée的一級田 葡萄酒，只欠那極奇昂貴的Cros-Parantoux一級田，有點可惜。 千萬別以為一級田葡萄酒必定在特級田葡萄酒之下，Meadows告訢我們：「 很多葡萄種植者，會先讓你品嚐特級田葡萄酒，然後才到一級田的，由此可見 這些酒的價值。」
Meadows的話：「在En Orveaux，位於山坡低段比高段的好，因為葡萄 園的山頂有很多高樹，樹蔭會減少葡萄接觸陽光的時間，每天30分鐘，聽 來影響很少，但對於經常缺乏成熟度的地區來說，100天後的影響力， 將會非常大。」
我們的品評：「驚人的餘韻和鋒利，極奇細緻和平衡；橡木味 融為一體，黑色林果的複習性，淺紅寶石色，伴隨淡淡雲呢 嗱香氣。」
Winery: Domaine Jean Grivot Vineyard: Les Rouges Vintage: 2006
‘Damn this is good’ by 90 points. 95 points is ‘on your knees’ good.” (For the record, his only stated 100-point wine is a 1945 Domaine RomanéeConti, but I think we can forgive that.) Even though Meadows has surely driven and trekked across the entirety of Burgundy, in 2010 he singled out a specific village for research, selfpublishing a book titled Pearl of the Côte: The Great Wines of Vosne Romanée. It offered a rare vineyard-by-vineyard analysis of the village, displaying his love and unparalleled knowledge of these legendary wines.
What Meadows said: “Les Rouges is a vineyard right alongside Echezeaux, and can be considered Grand Cru at its best. As for the producer, Grivot used to make more concentrated wines in a Cabernet style. Now his wines are more pure and austere. But I wouldn’t recommend drinking Grivot for 10-12 years.” Our thoughts: “Finesse and concentration. Grippy tannins and more astringent. Very cool climate fruit, indeed unyielding and very austere. Tight at the moment and quite wound up.” Meadows的話：「Les Rouges位於Echezeaux的右邊，最優質部分更可視為
特級田。釀酒師來說，Grivot習慣釀出較濃縮的葡萄酒，正如Cabernet風格。 他的酒現在更清亮更嚴峻，但是我不建議太早品嚐Grivot的酒，最少等10 至12年。」
We were lucky enough to be invited to “The Masterclass on Pearl of the Côte” on April 23rd 2013 by L’Imperatrice, a local fine wine distributor that
我們的品評：「精巧和濃郁，有抓力的單寧，更覺嚴峻。氣候非常涼爽 的果實，實在堅強不屈，現時表現收斂，頗為含蓄。」
has an enviable portfolio of Burgundy’s star producers. Over two hours, the Burghound led a tasting that covered every single 1er Cru of Vosne Romanée—except those of the elusive and achingly expensive 1er Cru Cros-Parantoux. But don’t automatically assume that 1er Cru wines are a step below Grand Cru wines. As Meadows told us that day, “Many vignerons serve their 1er Crus after their Grand Crus, which shows their valuation of the wines.”
Winery: Domaine Bruno Clavelier Vineyard: La Combe Brûlée Vintage: 2007 What Meadows said: “La Combe Brûlée is actually not a 1er Cru, but it is next to one (1er Cru Aux Brûlées). Ever so slightly less powerful than its neighbour, and Clavelier does a light style. One of the most passionate biodynamic producers in the village.” Our thoughts: “Fragrant and fragile, this scarlet and orange hued wine is beautiful and tart. Well balanced, but not at all powerful. A pure and clean wine that reflects the cool and difficult vintage of 2007. Delicious!” Meadows的話：「La Combe Brûlée其實並非一級田，但位於一級田之旁，稍為不 如其強大，Clavelier擅長輕柔風格，是一位熱衷於生物自然動力耕種法的釀酒師。」 我們的品評：「芳香纖柔，鮮橙紅色，漂亮而鋒利。平衡卻並不剛強，是一款清純 的酒，正正反映出2007年的涼快和艱辛，非常好喝！」
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Winery: Domaine d’Eugenie Vineyard: Aux Brûlée Vintage: 2006 What Meadows said: “The work that Domaine d’Eugenie has done with this vineyard is incredible, especially considering the amount of time they have owned it. Engel’s Brûlée was never up to this level. But as the domaine is very new, we haven’t had any old wines to try yet so we don’t know how it will evolve.” Our thoughts: “Domaine d’Eugenie bought this vineyard in 2006 from Domaine René Engels after the death of Philippe Engel in 2005. Extremely minerally and richly textured. Quite reserved, and the oak is very hidden. Fantastic structure though, and very clean. Served from a magnum, which may explain its slow evolution.”
Winery: Maison Roche de Bellene Vineyard: Les Suchots Vintage: 2008 What Meadows said: “If I were to choose any 1er Cru to show Vosne Romanée, I would choose Les Suchots, but there is a big difference between upper and lower Suchots. The lower part has two hills, so on rainy vintages there is a pocket to collect rain. This could mean either overproduction or rot—two things that no producer wants.”
Meadows的話：「Domaine d’Eugenie對這塊葡萄園所造的一切，實在令人佩服，特別 是他們擁有這塊葡萄園的時間不長。Engel’s Brûlée從來未曾有如此水準。基於這個莊 新還是很新，未能品嚐它的舊酒，所以不知質素如何。」
我們的品評：「Philippe
Engel於2005年逝世後，Domaine d’Eugenie在 2006年，從Domaine René Engels購入此葡萄園。極其豐富的礦物質感， 稍為含蓄，橡木味隱約。結構非凡，十分澄澈。變化緩慢，可能是來自
magnum的緣故。」
Our thoughts: “A negociant wine, but Nicolas Potel harvests the fruit and then works with it instead of buying the finished wine in bulk, so his team can still produce great wines. Brawny and concentrated, it is obviously young and needs time, but the texture is crunchy and structured; has the typical spicy and velvety character of Les Suchots.” Meadows的話：「若要我挑選一塊代表Vosne Romanée的一級田，我會選擇Les Suchots。但Suchots高段和低段的差別很大，低段有兩個小丘，形成一個小塊地 區，在多雨的年份積聚雨水，導致產量過多，或者葡萄腐爛，兩者都是釀酒師不希 望發生的。」 我們的品評：「一款酒商的葡萄酒，不過由Nicolas Potel團隊親自收割，然 後釀製，並非購買現成的酒，可見他們能釀出優良的酒。結實濃郁，明顯地 覺得仍然年輕，需要時間，清脆質感，結構良好；呈現Les 特性，充滿香料味，如絲柔滑。」
Suchots之
Winery: Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron Vineyard: Les Beaux Monts Vintage: 2005 What Meadows said: “Les Beaux Monts—perhaps the most elegant and mineral driven of the 1er Crus. One of my favourite vineyards in the village. Our thoughts: “This is stunning. Very complex and fresh, just opening up to reveal ripe fruits and tannins. Dense, rich, and enveloping… unbelievable balance. The aromatics of this wine are outstanding. Great wine from a great vintage.” Meadows的話：「Les Beaux Monts－可能是最優雅、最富礦物的一級田，是 村內我最愛的葡萄園之一。」
我們的品評：「真的十分震撼，非常複雜和清爽，表現開放，展露成熟的果 實和單寧。濃厚豐富而細密，難以置信的平衡。其芳香出眾，是一款偉大 年份的超卓葡萄酒。」
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Winery: Domaine Michel Gros Vineyard: “Clos des Reas” Monopole Vintage: 2006 What Meadows said: “Clos des Reas is the only monopole 1er Cru in Vosne Romanée, and is owned by the illustrious Gros family. Along with Les Chaumes, some of the softest wines are produced here. These wines are usually approachable after only 5-7 years of aging.” Our thoughts: “Gamy and savoury. Very expressive with a weighty concentration and texture. Spicy fruit, firm tannins, and good integration of flavours. Very impressive and drinking well now!” Meadows的話：「Clos des Reas，是Vosne Romanée裡唯一的獨有一級 田，為輝煌的Gros家族所擁有。沿著Les Chaumes之旁，這裡盛產最柔和 的葡萄酒，該酒多數陳年5至7年才適飲。」 我們的品評：「芳香的野味，非常有份量的濃度和結構，香料和水果 味，結實單寧，味道融洽，極之令人滿意，現在正是喝的時候！」
Winery: Domaine Francois Lamarche Vineyard: Les Chaumes Vintage: 1996 What Meadows said: “The wines from Les Chaumes are like that friend you know who is nice, but who doesn’t have much personality. They last usually only 6-10 years, and lack minerality. As for Domaine Lamarche, the father (who made this wine) was a better viticulturalist than a winemaker to be honest, but his daughters are doing very impressive work now.” Our thoughts: “Feels a bit old, very deep almost cloudy colour. Not entirely pleasant. Slight Madeira and cloves; fruit almost gone and the structure is there, but no edge.” Meadows的話：「Les Chaumes的葡萄酒，就如一位友善的朋友，卻少了點個人風 格。它們多數能存放6至10年，欠缺礦物質感。對Domaine Lamarche而言，釀 酒的父親，其實更覺像一位葡萄栽培師，但他女兒的作品，正受人注目。」 我們的品評：「酒色極深，近乎混濁，感覺有點陳舊。不太令人享受，少 許Madeira和丁香；幾乎沒有果味，有結構，卻不能成為賣點。」
Winery: Domaine Francois Lamarche Vineyard: Aux Malconsorts Vintage: 2006 What Meadows said: “Wines from Malconsorts often need 12 years minimum to show; they age like Grand Cru wines. Often underrated.” Our thoughts: “Closed nose; very unyielding and tight, but this style is so much cleaner and full of finesse than the older wines of this domaine. Nicole Lamarche is the winemaker now, and this Malconsorts is perfectly balanced and very concentrated. A delight to try and one of our favourites from here.” Meadows的話：「Malconsorts的葡萄酒，至少需要存放12年，就如Grand Cru 葡萄酒一樣的陳年時間，它經常被人低估。」
我們的品評：「香味封閉，非常倔強和收斂，但與其酒莊的舊酒相比，風格 清徹得多，極其精巧。Nicole
Lamarche為這款酒的現任釀酒師，釀
出完美平衡的Malconsorts，而且非常豐郁。是我們在這裡的最愛之 一，誰都愛試。」
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Winery: Domaine Joseph Drouhin Vineyard: Les Petits Monts Vintage: 2000 What Meadows said: “The wines from this sought-after 1er Cru are like a gymnast—smooth, sleek, and full of expression. They can age well, and are full of minerality.” Our thoughts: “Mineral, elegant, and fresh, it is very enjoyable now with a long finish. Not the most complex example however, and it lacks some concentration and excitement. Still has quite a few years of life left, but not sure how it well develop further.” Meadows的話：「這塊搶手一級田的葡萄酒，就如一位體操運動員， 纖柔、光滑，表現淋漓盡致，它們的陳年力強，而且充滿礦物味。」 我們的品評：「礦物質感，華麗而清爽，餘韻悠長，現在正是喝 的時候。不過並不非常複雜，少了點濃度和驚喜。仍可存放數 年，卻難以預測結果。」
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Winery: Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vineyard: Aux Reignots Vintage: 2006 What Meadows said: “Aux Reignots is a very sandy 1er Cru, very elegant. The wines usually have an 8-12 year window and are of high quality. Note that if you buy Vosne Romanée 1er Cru to age, they are all cut from a different cloth.” Our thoughts: “The mouthfeel on this is truly just incredible. It is so light that it almost floats on our tongues. Very fine tannins, stunning fruit and texture. We love the spice, the richness, and the sweet aromatics. Even though it has a lot of life ahead of it, this is drinking very nicely right now.” Meadows的話：「Aux Reignots是一塊沙土一級田，極為優良，那些酒多數有8至12 年的陳年能力，而且非常優秀。若你購買Vosne Romanée一級田葡萄酒來存放，要 注意那些葡萄是來自不同的田地的。」
我們的品評：「口感出奇地飄逸，幾乎在舌上飄浮。非常纖細的單寧，果味 芳香，超凡結構，我們喜歡它的香料味，濃郁中帶甜甜的香氣。雖然它 還可以陳年很久，現在品嚐亦充滿樂趣。」
Winery: Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vineyard: La Croix Rameau Vintage: 2005 What Meadows said: “This is the smallest 1er Cru in the village, and only 3 producers make wine here. You almost never see these wines. Geographically it is very close to Romanée St. Vivant, although the quality doesn’t really compare. Again, like with Les Chaumes, they aren’t too fascinating.” Winery: Maison Nicolas Potel Vineyard: Les Gaudichots Vintage: 2006 What Meadows said: “Les Gaudichots was sold as La Tâche for 40 years up until the 1930’s, when a court case separated the two names. This vineyard is interesting as it is actually 3 separate parcels, and though they aren’t officially Grand Crus, they are all situated very favorably in the village.” Our thoughts: “This has so much concentration and complexity. The Pinot characteristics are ethereal and rich. Very mineral! This sounds strange, but there were even some glittering minerals on the bottom of our glasses…” Meadows的話：「Les Gaudichots被賣作La Tâche長達40年以上，直至1930年代， 一宗法案才把田地分為兩個名字。有趣的是，這個葡萄園其實分為3片，雖然它們並非正式
Our thoughts: “We still loved this wine, even though Mr. Meadows said it wasn’t too unique. Very dense, with weighty firm tannins, and a dark colour. Definitely needs aging as it comes from the extremely ripe 2005 vintage, but it is just starting to open up a little bit now. The oak is apparent, which Allen says is a trademark of the producer, but integrating well.” Meadows的話：「這是村內面積最小的一級田，只有3名釀酒師採用這裡的葡萄， 你幾乎不會見到那些酒。從地理上來看，他非常接近Romanée St. Vivant，不 過級數差天共地。就如Les Chaumes一樣，不是十分出眾。」 我們的品評：「雖然Meadows先生批評它並非得天獨厚，我們仍喜愛這 款酒。非常濃厚，有份量而結實的單寧，顏色很深。來自2005年極熟 的一年，絕對需要時間陳年，現在才剛剛開放。明顯的橡木味，非常 融洽，Allen說是釀酒師的特徵。」
的特級田，但仍是位於村內有利位置。」
我們的品評：「非常濃郁和複雜，Pinot特質精緻而豐富，礦物質味十分強！在玻 璃杯底部，我們發現一些閃閃發光的礦物質，這聽起來有點不可思議…」
Enquiry: L’Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 2850 5544 Website: www.imperatrice.com.hk
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A Pink-Hued Summer 粉紅色的仲夏
text : Eddie Chui
After the moody and dark showers that came earlier last month, we finally have some bright sunshine and refreshing blue skies to remind us of the upcoming summer. Hong Kong has some of the fiercest heatwaves in Asia, so to enjoy the inevitable hot weather in the next few months, there is nothing better than to drink a cool glass of wine to chill out at the beach. So what will it be, a crispy Sauvignon Blanc, or a sweeter wine made from Riesling? How about a pink wine for the romantic summer? We call this pink-hued wine “Rosé”, and it is believed to be the most primitive form of wine, produced as early as ancient Greek or Roman times. The winemaking technique at that time differed very much to how it is made today, where the grape juice is only allowed to have very brief contact with the red skin of the grape ( short maceration) to get very light pink coloured wine. They are less tannic and the pink colour is always eye catching for the ladies. My favourites are those from France and Jebsen Fine Wines has a selection of excellent quality Rose in their portfolio, you can simply pick one and it goes well with all kind of delicacies. 距離炎炎夏日還有一段時間，但經過早一陣子的烏天黑雲，艷陽終於回來了，尤其經過雨水的洗滌，天空顯得特別澄淨，陽光份外灑脫，大家都在 迎接夏天的來臨。在沙灘享受著陽光的同時，自然會想來一杯冰涼的葡萄美酒，來緩和一下炎夏的高溫。一杯清爽的Sauvignon Blanc？還是甜甜的 Riesling？何不來個浪漫的夏天，喝一杯華麗的粉紅美酒？ 粉紅葡萄酒，常被稱為Rosé，相信是最初期葡萄酒的原形，可追溯至古希臘或羅馬時期，古時候釀造的葡萄酒跟我們現在單寧強勁的葡萄酒大不相 同，通常只有短時間的浸皮，讓透明葡萄汁液跟紅色的葡萄皮接觸，得出的是淺紅色甚至是粉紅色的葡萄酒。是故她們沒有紅葡萄酒強勁的單寧，加 上粉紅的色彩，更易奪得女士的歡心。在筆者心目中，來自法國的Rosé是我的不二之選，其中捷成洋酒引入了多款質量極佳的粉紅葡萄酒可供選擇， 讓你輕易配對各種美食。
Château d’Esclans
We can never miss the beautiful pink wines from Provence when we are talking about French Rosé. The purple coloured lavender from Provence has been a sign of French romance for centuries, and so are the sensational pink wines made in this stunning corner of the South of France. Many painters, poets and artists have been inspired by these beautiful lands and its history, the Rosé wines from Provence are legendary, and act as a role model for all modern Rosé. Château d’Esclans is one of the most ancient estates in the region, owning some of the oldest vineyards with the best terroir. They produce four Rosé wines with distinctive styles: ‘Whispering Angel’ has a crispy acidity; ‘Esclans’ has good minerality and a rounded palate; ‘Les Clans’ is full bodied with a mature taste, and ‘Garrus’ has a contradicting intensity and richness compared to its pale appearance, and can be aged for 6-10 years. These different styles of Rose enable wine lovers to accompany different wines for different occasions and cuisines, and showcases the diversities of Provence Rosé produced from a single estate. 說到法國的Rosé，怎能不提普羅旺斯（Provence）那美艷動人的酒釀呢？紫色的薰衣草當 然是普羅旺斯的浪漫，但是釀造粉紅葡萄酒的紫色葡萄也是藝術家眼中的經典，加上超過二 千年的釀酒歷史，普羅旺斯的Rosé有著不一樣的地位。當中Château d’Esclans是區內歷史最 悠久的酒莊之一，也擁有最古老、位置最佳的葡萄園，釀造著4款不同風格的Rosé，包括： 清香而帶良好酸度的Whispering Angel、以礦物香及圓潤口感為主的Esclans、口感豐盈多樣 的Les Clans及擁有跟外貌不相稱、味道及香氣豐滿、可陳年六至十年的Garrus。表現出普羅 旺斯粉紅葡萄酒的不同風格，於不同場合或美食，都能找到一款來配合。 Here is the special offers to our reader by Jebsen Fine Wine: 以下是由捷成洋酒為我們讀者提供的夏日優惠： Discounted Item Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rose Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rose Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rose Château d’Esclans Garrus Rose Château d’Esclans Garrus Rose Château d’Esclans Garrus Rose
2008 2008 2008 2008 2007 2009
750ml 1500ml 3000ml 750ml 1500ml 3000ml
Original
Now
$740 $1,610 $3,500 $1,150 $2,530 $5,330
$510 $1,120 $2,430 $800 $1,760 $3,700
*Special offer is valid until 30th June 2013 / 特價優惠至2013年6月30日止
Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui)
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Champagne Bollinger Rosé NV Champagne is always a great companion at any time, especially during a hot summer. Champagne Rosé is always be the first choice for girls during parties. Bollinger makes a wonderful Champagne Rosé, blending in some Pinot Noir wine from the famed Côte aux Enfants vineyard to craft an elegant Champagne Rosé with distinctive Bollinger style. It has a rich, rounded palate with lovely fine bubbles. It’s so refreshing that I wouldn’t even mind to have a sip in the morning to start my day in style. This year Bollinger are switching to a newly designed bottle, which is as stylish and elegant as the champagne itself. 香檳一向是夏日最佳良伴，而粉紅色的氣泡香檳更加是女士手中不可或缺的 酒釀。Bollinger的Rosé一向保持著優雅的風格，全因用上來自著名的Côte aux Enfants葡萄園的Pinot Noir作為基酒，加上濃郁的果香，細膩的氣泡，絕對是早 上起來，在那溫暖的晨光中讓人精神一振的「早點」！他們今年更加換上新裝， 修長的瓶身設計更加能展現粉紅香檳的那份嫵媚，更加人見人愛。
Château d’Anglès Classique Rosé In Languedoc, besides the modern cellars, there are also historical ones like Château d’Anglès, who make Rosé using Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache from an area known as La Clape, with its vineyards besides the Mediterranean sea. Their wines have a beautiful flamingo pink colour, and are rounded with intensely floral notes and ripe red fruit, feeling like the spectra of Mediterranean’s sunshine. 在Languedoc地區，除了新興的酒莊及葡萄園外，也有歷史悠久的莊園，例如Château d’Anglès，在臨海的La Clape葡萄園，也有以Mourvèdre、Syrah及Grenache釀造的Rosé。艷 麗的粉紅色，入口圓潤，加上豐富的果香及花香，讓您感受著地中海陽光的燦爛。
Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rosé In the Loire Valley located in northern part of France, Pascal Jolivet produces pronounced Sancerre reds and Pouilly Fumé white wines. Besides these iconic names, they also make Sancerre Rosé fashioned from the Pinot Noir grape. It is elegant with a perfumed aroma, and is ideally to be enjoyed with beautiful sunset in the summer time. 在法國北面的Loire Valley中，Pascal Jolivet除了著名的Sancerre紅酒及Pouilly Fumé白葡萄酒 外，也有以Pinot Noir釀造的Rosé，優雅而清香，最適合配以傍晚的夕陽。
Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui)
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Cover Story
The Man Behind Paris’s Flower 巴黎之花 背後的男人
Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Images: Louise Pak // Translation: Ian Wong
From the moment that Hervé Deschamps—only the seventh-ever Cellar Master of Perrier-Jouët—entered this world, he breathed Champagne. Born in 1956 to a local family in the region, he became an agriculturalist and oenologist, working in food science and nutrition before ultimately joining Perrier-Jouët in 1983—a move that would turn out to be his life’s work. He was placed in charge of the fermentation process and the cellar ageing of wines, before a promotion at the age of 27 brought him under the direct tutelage of Cellar Master André Bavaret, who had served Perrier-Jouët for almost 30 years. As his assistant, Hervé learned about the craft of blending different Champagne wines while maintaining the classic elegance of Perrier-Jouët wines. It took him years of research and practice, but eventually Hervé understood Perrier-Jouët Champagne completely. In 1993, Hervé officially became the Cellar Master of this 200-year-old company. In 1811 Perrier-Jouët was founded in 1811 by Pierre-Nicolas-Marie Perrier, a native of Epernay, and ever since has been an industry leader for making soft and elegant Champagnes. In 1902, the famous glassmaker Emile Gallé of the Art Nouveau movement created the memorable anemone design for the Belle Epoque bottles, instantly creating a memorable classic. But inside the bottle, the wine also remains the most important part: it is the passion and hard work of the winegrower, the winemaker, and cellar master. Perrier-Jouët owns more 247 acres of land in Champagne, and the vineyards are spread out across the different villages of the region. They have plots in Ay and Dizy of Vallee de la Marne, plots in Verzenay and Mailly in Montagne de Reims, as well as plots in Avize and Cramant in Cote des Blancs. The winery’s holdings in Cramant are especially important, as some of the highest quality Chardonnay is grown in those vineyards. Chardonnay provides the soft and refined side of Champagne, and Hervé brings out the flavour of white flowers and ripe citrus in his Champagnes. When these aromatics are blended with the complexity of good Champagne, a few years of aging help integrate the flavours and give Perrier-Jouët its reputation in the market.
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“
031
I always go straight to the blending stage, rather like an artist, trusting in an inexplicable fusion of infection, sensitivity and skill. 我相信自己敏銳的觸角與技巧，就好像藝術家一樣， 我選擇直接進入調配的工序。
”
Hervé Deschamps Perrier-Jouët’s seventh cellar master in two centuries Perrier-Jouët兩個世紀以來第七位香檳調配大師
1956年生於法國香檳區， Hervé Deschamps從誕生的那一刻便與香檳結下不解之緣。在 Dijon修讀農業與釀酒學學位 後，又涉足了關於營養學與食物科學範疇的工作，然後在 1983年開展了他的畢生事業 — 加入了 Perrier-Jouët，成 為當時的釀酒師，負責管理酒莊的香檳發酵及熟成工序。年僅 27歲的 Hervé在當時的調配大師 André Bavaret的帶領 下，更迅速地升任成他的副手，在年年月月的反覆熟練與研究之中，領略到 Perrier-Jouët香檳的調配藝術之意，亦逐 漸掌握到 Perrier-Jouët風格優雅而精緻的巧妙之處。 1993年，經過多年的學習和領悟， Hervé Deschamps已經完全掌 握 Perrier-Jouët的調配手藝，正式接任 André Bavaret，成為品牌兩個世紀以來第七位香檳調配大師。
1811年由 Pierre-Nicolas-Marie Perrier創立的 Perrier-Jouët經歷兩個世紀多，一直是香檳界優雅風格的翹楚， 1902年 由玻璃製作大師 Emile Gallé為 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque所設計的銀蓮花彩繪酒瓶更令品牌的形象與獨特性推上高 峰。而如此標致性的酒瓶內，裝滿的更是葡萄農、釀酒師、以及可謂最後把關的香檳調配師，眾多為香檳付出心血 汗水的成果。 擁有 247英畝土地， Perrier-Jouët的葡萄園散落在香檳區內不同角落： Vallee de la Marne的 Ay和 Dizy、 Montagne
de Reims 的 Mailly 和 Verzenay 、 Cote des Blancs 的 Avize 和 Cramant 。 而 其 中 Cramant 更 是 香 檳 區 之 中 無 毋 置 疑 的 最 佳 葡 萄 園 ， 種 植 出 優 質 香 檳 之 中 不 可 或 缺 的 頂 級 Chardonnay 。 Hervé 心 目 中 的 優 雅 香 檳 當 然 亦 少 不 了
Chardonnay， Chardonnay能夠在 Perrier-Jouët優雅精緻的風格之中帶出白色花朵的風味，熟成後亦帶出柑橘、橙香 的味道，是平衡香檳味道與和諧度的重要元素，亦是多年來 Perrier-Jouët迄立市場頂峰的籌碼之一。
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Cover Story
Since joining in 1983, Hervé has witnessed a lot of change in both people’s practices and in Perrier-Jouët. Back in the 80’s, Champagne was served often with dessert, and there was a higher dosage to suit the tastes of the public at that time. In more recent years, Perrier-Jouët’s Champagne has been drier, but also more fresh and streamlined; modern technology has made winemaking more efficient and convenient. But though times have changed, Hervé’s philosophy of winemaking has remained the same. It is pivotal to understand the characteristics of his base wines, to find the most elegant elements, never to blend too many different flavours, but also never to stop innovating: this is the style of Perrier-Jouët’s great Champagne. Last month Perrier-Jouët launched three vintages of Belle Epoque to mark the past. Belle Epoque 1982, 1985, and 1996 are all remarkable vintages both for their quality and history, and it brought back an element of nostalgia for Hervé, as tasting wines from those decades reminded him of his own life at that period of time. On one bottle of 1985, the hand drawn flowers are still visible, which reminded Hervé of the difficult weather conditions that year. It was a heavy winter, and the yield of Pinot Noir had fallen considerably. Yet the remaining grapes were complex, and he had a difficult time sorting out what wines to blend and choose that year. Only perseverance in the vineyard and the sorting table led to that fine Champagne being produced. Since he became Chief Winemaker, Hervé has been solely responsible for all of Perrier-Jouët’s Champagnes, including their vintage and non-vintage Grand Brut and Blason Rosé, and the widely sought after Belle Epoque and Belle Rosé cuvée. For this re-launch of 1996, Hervé praised its aging potential. A week before the harvest the temperatures suddenly dropped, so the grapes held an unusual level of acidity, meaning that the wine would age longer. Hervé even said that the 1996 Belle Epoque probably has around 10 more years of life in it! “Wine can change into anything in a bottle,” said Hervé, meaning that in the bottle, the wine has infinite possibility. It often takes years however for the true potential of Champagne to be unraveled, so only patience and time allows for the most enjoyable wine.
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1983年加入 Perrier-Jouët的 Hervé回憶起從前的日子，感慨世界萬事萬物變化之迅速。八十年代的法國人，原來視香 檳為佐以甜品的餐酒，而且當時的香檳更普遍帶有一定甜度，以配合當時大眾的口味。今日的 Perrier-Jouët香檳減卻 了當年的甜，同時也多之一份清新脫俗的優雅，隨著歲月而改變的還有技術與科技，帶來更方便、更有效率的釀酒 工序。時移世易，不變的仍是 Hervé的香檳調配哲學，要了解每一種基酒的特性，從而找出最優雅的元素，從不把過 多的味道混合，以創新的思維跟隨著味覺，調配出 Perrier-Jouët風格的偉大香檳。 看著今日重新推出的 1982、 1985及 1996年份 Belle Epoque， Hervé亦相當感慨，回看八十年代自己有份釀造的酒 款，就好像回看自己的人生一樣。其中的 1985年份 Belle Epoque酒瓶上的人手彩繪銀蓮花筆跡依然清晰可見，透出 二十多年前的懷舊氣息。 Hervé回憶起，當年的釀造過程尤其艱辛，因為當年的冬季天氣狀況實在太壞，所出產的
Pinot Noir數量不夠，調配的工序變得更加複雜， Hervé更直言說當時實在很難選擇以甚麼進行混釀。但經過細心的調 配與測試，最終也釀成了這款香檳。 從 1 9 9 3 年 接 任 成 為 酒 莊 調 配 大 師 後 ， H e r v é 全 權 負 責 所 有 P e r r i e r- J o u ë t 的 香 檳 系 列 ， 包 括 V i n t a g e 與
non Vintage Grand Brut 、 Blason Rosé 以及廣受追捧的 Belle Epoque 及 Belle Rosé cuvée 。對於今次重 新 推 出 的 1996 年 Belle Epoque ， Hervé 大 讚 其 陳 年 潛 力 。 話 說 當 年 的 收 成 前 一 週 氣 溫 突 然 變 冷 ， 做 成 葡 萄 之 中的酸度不尋常地高，所以它的陳年時間可以比其他年份酒更長。 Hervé 更提出，由現在起計， 1996 年的 Belle
Epoque 更可再陳年多約十年時間呢！ 「 Wine can change into anything in a bottle.（在酒瓶中，酒擁有無限可能）」 Hervé說道。只有年月，才可以看清一 瓶香檳的真正力量；只有耐心與等待，才能夠享用到最經得起考驗的酒釀。
Enquiry: Pernod Ricard HK Ltd. // Tel: 2398 3636 // Website: www.pernod-ricard.com
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Rosé
A Pink Provence 粉紅色的普羅旺斯
In the real world, having everything black and white is certainly clear and good, but there must always be a gray area in which two extremes are balanced. In the world of wine, red is one extreme, and white is another, but rosé lies in the middle; it is the most delicate of wines that is neutral and effortless. Chinese Text: Joe Lo
現實世界之中，黑白分明固然是好，但當中必定存在著灰色地帶，是矇糊 、亦是緩衝。在葡萄酒的世界裡，紅
Translation: Ian Wong
與白的爭妍鬥麗之間，也有著其緩衝的顏色，粉紅。在這片粉紅色的世界中，沒有強弱之爭，也沒有過多的人
Images: Ato
和事參與其中；唯有粉紅色，才是葡萄酒世界之中呈現真我的極致。
Special Thanks: Fofo by El Willy
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PANEL TASTING
France
Provence
You many not know this, but consumption of wine in France itself
elegance, and purity of fruit are some of the most commonly
has fallen over the past few years, with perhaps either culturally
used terms when describing rosé, due to the subtle differences
or economical changes (or both) forcing a shift towards other
between different bottles of rosé. In this month’s tasting on the
beverages. However, consumption of rosé hasn’t been affected
rosé of Provence, we gathered a selection of wines available
by this, proving that rosé has become one of France’s mainstream
in Hong Kong for a personal tasting by our professional judges.
and popular wines. If you ask why rosé has suddenly become so popular, it would be difficult to pinpoint an exact reason. However, I believe a lot of this could be put down to how our contemporary
不說不知，原來法國在過去幾年間的葡萄酒消耗量逐漸下跌，但細
lifestyle has changed throughout the years. Nowadays, few are
看當中的數據下，卻顯示出 Rosé隨著大圍的數字不跌反升，由此
able to sit down three hours simply to eat a formal meal. When
可見， Rosé已成為現今法國的主流酒款之一。如果要問 Rosé「掘
life becomes simpler and the economy takes a turn for the worse,
起」的原因是甚麼，我絕對認為是生活方式的改變所影響。今時今
people of all types will lose the formulaic thinking that they’ve
日還有誰願意一坐三小時只為吃掉一頓法式formal fine dining？當
become accustomed to, and fall back upon their original thoughts
生活模式變得簡約、人的思維從一律的公式化變得更活潑、更忠於
and mannerisms. Symbolically, rosé represents this freedom of
自己， Rosé代表著的正是這種自由的思想、自在的生活。
thought and freedom of life. 普羅旺斯是法國境內生產 Rosé而聞名的最主要地區，佔全國 Rosé
Provence is France’s most famous región for rosé, accounting for
生產總值的 38% 、全球 Rosé 生產的 8% 。位於地中海與阿爾卑斯
38% of all the rosé in the country, and 8% of all rosé in the world.
山脈之間，普羅旺斯的葡葡園由西向東一直伸延 200 公里，橫越
Situated between the Mediterranean and the Alps, the vineyards
Var 、 Bouches-du-Rhône 與 Alpes-Maritimes 三個省份。普羅旺
of Provence stretch from the west to the east, 200 kilometers
斯擁有三個特別地區名稱，分別是 Côtes de Provence ，當中細
across the Var, Bouches-du-Rhône, and Alpes-Maritimes.
分為 Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire 、 Côtes de Provence
Provence has three special areas for rosé: Côte du Provence
Fréjus 、 Côtes de Provence La Londe 「 terroirs 」； Coteaux
(Saint-Victoire, Côtes de Provence Frejus, Côtes de Provence La
d’Aix-en-Provence；以及Coteaux Varois en Provence。
Londe “terroirs”), Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, and Coteaux Varois en Provence.
作為世界聞名的Rosé生產地，來自普羅旺斯的近600名釀酒商每年 生產著大約 1.7億瓶葡萄酒，當中更有達 88%是 Rosé，只有 9%是
Rosé from Provence is famous and the region is almost
紅酒、3%為白酒，是法國地區中最大的Rosé生產地。 清澈透明、
synonymous with the style of wine; there are nearly 600
優雅而果香純淨都是經常會被用作形容 Rosé的詞彙，而品嘗 Rosé
winemakers making 170 million bottles of wine per year,
所要求的，一定是敏銳的觸角，因為 Rosé最引人入勝的往往是最
of which 88% are rosé, and only 9% are red wine, with
細微的味道與變化。在是次《釀‧生活》品酒會中，我們便帶來了
the remaining 3% being white wine. Clarity, transparency,
多款來自普羅旺斯的Côtes de Provence Rosé，逐一品評。
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Tasters
From Left: Ian Symonds, Andy She, Hood Hon, Joey Tsang, Larry Chim, Danny Ng, Kurt Wong, Kelvin Cheng
Guest Tasters Kelvin Cheng
The Sommelier at The Aberdeen Marina Club, Kelvin is honored to take the Shangri-La Wine Sommelier Training Program then be the new professional Sommelier in Hong Kong. Wine education certificate included the WSET level 2, “Introducing Sommelier” of the Court of Master Sommelier, Asia Wine Institute & Shanghai Jiao Tong University Professional Sommelier Program “WISDOM Advance Level”. 深灣遊艇俱樂部品酒師，通過由香格里拉集團舉辦的品酒師訓練課程後，Kelvin已成為香港新一代的專業品酒師之一。 專業資格包括WSET第二級、Court of Sommeliers的「 Introducing Sommelier」、亞洲葡萄酒學會及上海交通大學 合辦的品酒師計劃之進階課程。
Larry Chim As a member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association, Larry is currently working in the American Club Hong Kong as Assistant Sommelier. Previously worked in the Omni H.K. Hotel, Sheraton Hotel & Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club. he has also completed the Sopexa (H.K.) wine course & WSET level 3. Larry是香港品酒師協會的認可會員，現為香港美國會的助理品酒師。曾於Omni H.K. Hotel、喜來登酒店和香港遊艇會 任職，亦持有Sopexa的葡萄酒證書及WSET的第三級證書。
Scoring System points awarded
year of tasting
best potential year to taste
得分
品評年份
最佳飲用年份
88 2012
2020A
D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用，但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用
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100 point system / 100分系統
96-100
Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒，各方面達到最高水準，讓人再三回味。
90-95
Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring
85-89
Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir
80-84
Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.
70-79
Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.
60-69
Dull or flat wine without character
50-59
Faulty or unacceptable wine
出眾的酒，各方面表現出色，鮮明具吸引力 。 品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並，但表現並不突出。 簡單，直接的酒，但未能突個性。 不對眼，沒有個性，沉悶的酒。 有問題，不能接受的酒
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$160
Barton & Guestier Côte De Provence Rosé 90 2013
2015D
MaxScene International Ltd. // 2856 0308 // www.barton-guestier.com
Kelvin Cheng Clean, bright with a salmon skin colour, nice legs on the glass. Clean, medium plus intensity with grapefruit, melon skin, asparagus, yellow flowers on the nose, and a touch of vanilla. Dry with a little sweetness; medium acidity and body, and fine alcohol with low tannins. Good potential for bottle aging because of the fine acidity and medium body. 乾淨明亮的三文魚顏色，漂亮的掛杯。清新，中上強度的西柚、蜜 瓜皮、蘆筍與黃花香，還有淡淡的香草。乾身、帶些微甜度，中等 酸度與酒體，酒精度良好。有著良好的酸度和中等的酒體，陳年潛 力應當不錯。
Larry Chim Clear, medium intensity with a watery rim and pale salmon colour. Clean, medium intensity with fresh cherry, red berry, lime peel and young strawberry aroma. Dry, medium acidity, light to medium bodied, fresh and good quality, with fresh berry, pear, young cherry, and lime peel on the palate. 清晰明亮，中等強度，水漾的邊緣和三文魚顏色。中等強度的新鮮 的櫻桃、紅漿果、酸橙皮和年輕的草莓香氣。乾身、中等酸度，輕 到中等濃郁，清新優質，帶新鮮漿果、梨子、櫻桃和青檸皮味道。
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PANEL TASTING
039
Château de Pourcieux Rosé 2o11 90 2013
2015D
$150
Catangi Ltd. // 9672 2509 // www.chateau-de-pourcieux.com
Joey Tsang Clear, nice salmon pink in color. Shows orange blossoms, citrus on the nose; a very subtle aroma with hints of cranberry and perfume. Dry, medium bodied, good acidity, and a refreshing and good structure. Grapefruit and orange zests are accompany the red fruits characters. Floral finish.清新、漂 亮的三文魚粉紅色。很乾淨，帶著微妙而淡淡的酸果和香水、柑橘 橙花等香氣。乾身、中度酒體，帶良好酸度，清爽、結構良好。亦 帶柚子和橘子、及紅色果實的味道。收結帶花香。
Danny Ng Clear, lovely medium intensity, white peach pink in color. Clear, developing with peach, white floral and fresh citrus. Dry, medium acidity with medium bodied, lively and refreshing acidity balance with body and fruit characters. 清澈誘人、中等強度的白桃粉紅色。帶有白桃、白花和新鮮的柑 橘香氣。乾身、中等酸度及酒體，活潑清爽的酸度與酒體的平衡 不錯。
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Domaine d’Astros Vin de Pays des Maures 2o11 $160
89 2013
2015D
Minuit Rose // 5690 2924 // www.astros.fr
Ian Symonds Lovely pale pink colour, hints of orange hue, crisp, fruity on the palate, red fruit flavors, refreshingly acidic, good finish of fruity characters. Not for aging long, around one year. 可愛的淡粉色，淡淡的橙色色調，清爽、 果香濃郁的口感，帶紅色水果風味，令人耳目一新的酸度。，收結 亦帶豐富果味。不適宜陳年過久，約一年左右便要飲用。
Jordi Chan Pale salmon, elegant aromas showing raspberry, ripe strawberry, and a hint of smoke. A tender, soft palate with good balance, showing loads of red fruit and a crisp texture. 淡淡的三文魚顏色，優雅的香氣有著成熟 的樹莓、草莓、以及淡淡的煙熏味。柔軟而具有良好的平衡，帶有 紅色水果的味道，口感清爽。
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Marrenon Grande Toque Rosé AOC Luberon 2o11 89 2013
2015D
FICO International Ltd. // 2850 4799 // www.marrenon.com
$110
Larry Chim Clear, medium intensity with watery rims, a light pink color. Clean medium intensity. Floral with red cherry, fresh berry, pear, lime peel and citrus aromas. Dry,
medium
bodied
and
medium
acidity, long length with medium alcohol. Medium intensity, very good quality, well balanced with fresh berry, red cherry, white pear, lime and lemon peel flavors. 酒色清澈，中等強度帶水漾的邊緣，淺粉色。中等強度，花香、紅 櫻桃、新鮮漿果、梨子、酸橙皮和柑橘香味。乾身，中等酒體與酸 度，中等酒精度與長度。中等強度，質量非常好，有著良好的平衡 與新鮮的漿果、紅櫻桃、白梨、青檸和檸檬皮的味道。
Jordi Chan Pale salmon in color, attractive aroma showing strawberry, raspberry, a hint of grapefruit, lime and lemon. A fruity styled rosé showing ripe peach and grapefruit with a hint of blood orange. 淡三文魚顏色，誘人的香味草莓、樹莓、 淡淡的柚子、酸橙和檸檬。是一款果味為主的酒，有著桃和柚 子、以及淡淡的血橙味。
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PANEL TASTING
$240
Château d’Astros Minuit Rosé 2o11 89 2013
2015D
Minuit Rose // 5690 2924 // www.astros.fr
Hood Hon Salmon color with copper rims. Moderate to high intensity of strawberry, raspberry, and some herbs like dill. Off-dry with the balanced acidity quite straightforward. Summer fruits with a herbal edge. Slightly short length but refreshing. 三文魚顏色的酒液、些少銅色邊緣。中至高強度草莓、樹莓、還有 一些蒔蘿香草。帶輕微甜度、酸度平衡而直接，帶夏季水果和香草 風味。長度較短，整體感覺清新。
Andy She Pale pink, clear and sharp. Sour cherry with chili spices, and candied fruits on the nose. High acidity shows behind the body, giving a balanced mouthfeel with these full flavors. This wine would be good to drink young, maybe to pair with some fresh green salad and light dressing! 淡粉色，清晰銳利。酸櫻桃與辣椒，和蜜餞水果的香氣。酒質酸度 較高，給予一個平衡的口感。此酒適合年輕時喝，也適合佐以新鮮 沙律和輕盈的醬汁同吃。
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Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé 2008 88 2013
2015D
Jebsen Fine Wine Club // 3180 3424 // www.cavesdesclans.com
$713
Jordi Chan Pale salmon color, subtle nose, hint of raspberry and herbs. A balanced wine showing harmony on palate, good length and beautiful palate. 淡三文魚色，溫和的香氣帶著淡淡的樹 莓和香草。口感上長度良好，各方面味 感和諧而均衡。
Andy She Pale orange, salmon pink, clear and bright colour. Light cherry, yeast, orange, ripe cherry on the nose, the fruit comes up with a bit of white pepper and hints of peach and butterscotch. Gentle acidity balanced with rich body, attractive ripe red fruit aromas with a sweet spicy clean finish. Refreshing and smooth. 淡橙色，橙紅色，清澈明亮。淺櫻桃、酵母、橙、成熟的櫻桃， 果味之後是一些奶油威士忌、和一點白胡椒的味道。溫和而平衡 的酸度與豐富酒體，誘人的成熟紅果香氣與甜辣並重的收結。清 爽、光滑柔和，酸度平衡。
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$165
Château Les Valentines Rosé 2o11 87 2013
2015D
Kedington Wines (Far East) Co., Ltd. // 2898 9323 // www.lesvalentines.com
Joey Tsang Brilliant pale salmon pink; clear and bright. Clean, light, and refreshing. Grapefruit and a hint of cranberry and raspberry. Touch of fragrance. On the palate it is dry and medium bodied, with good balance between the acidity and fruitiness. Lots of citrus fruits are found as well as some strawberry notes. Clean and lively finish with good minerality. 美麗的淡三文魚粉紅色，清澈明亮。西柚和淡淡的蔓越莓、覆盆子 香氣都可以找到。淡淡的香水味。口感乾身，酒體中等，良好的酸 度和果味之間相當平衡，有大量柑橘水果，以及草莓味道。乾爽活 潑，收結帶礦物味。
Hood Hon Medium salmon core with a silver rim. Moderate intensity of summer berries, yellow peach, slight herb edge of dill. Off dry with moderate acidity, some extraction with herb notes dill, thyme, crushed berries fruits on the palate with a moderate to long finish. 中等三文魚色與邊緣。中等強度的夏季漿果、黃桃、蒔蘿香草等微 微的香氣。帶微弱甜度，酸度適中，帶些少蒔蘿和百里香、一些碾 碎的漿果味道，餘韻中度至悠長。
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Domaines Ott Château De Selle 2o11 87 2013
2014D
$400
Links Concepts Company Ltd. // 2802 2818 // www.domaines-ott.com
Kurt Wong A very light pale salmon with a clear intensity. It shows a very attractive aroma of flowers, vanilla, and banana with mineral characters and good complexity. Medium bodied with nice acidity and balanced; I could feel the minerality during the long finish. 一款非常淡的三文魚色。它顯示了一種非常吸引的香氣與礦物味 道，又在著獨特的性格與複雜性，如鮮花、亦略帶香草香味、香蕉 等。漂亮的酸度，酒體適中，很好的平衡，能感覺到口中的礦物、 收結悠長。
Ian Symonds Very pale salmon flesh color, a “pretty” pale rosé. Crisp acidity, very refreshing, good red fruits with hints of minerality. The slightest hint of tannins and a good fruity finish. 三文魚肉顏色，淡淡的，一款「漂亮」的 粉紅玫瑰酒。酸度清爽，紅色水果味以外還有些少礦物味，一絲 淡淡的單寧，果味收結良好。
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Chât-en-oeuf Rosé 2o11 86 2013 $116
2014D
Tina Cellar c/o King Hero Trading Limited // 3468 6040 // www.chat-en-oeuf.com
Kelvin Cheng Bright with an onion skin colour and watery rims. Clear intensity with some stone fruits like white peach; there are also sweet lemon, asparagus and floral notes. Dry, medium bodied and medium acidity; a good balance of citrus, lemon and grapefruit on the palate. Elegant and complex. 如洋蔥皮般的顏色清澈明亮，水漾的邊緣。清澈的味道帶一些核果 如白桃、甜檸檬，蘆筍和花香。乾身，中等酒體與酸度，良好的平 衡結構，帶柑橘、檸檬和柚子的口感。優雅而複雜。
Danny Ng Clear, medium intensity, watery rims. Clean,
medium
intensity,
youthful
notes of fresh pear, citrus fruit like lemons with hint of sweet spice. Dry, medium acidity with medium alcohol; rich and elegant finish. 清澈、中等強度，水漾的邊緣。中等強度，新鮮的梨子、柑橘如檸 檬、淡淡的甜香料味道。乾身，中等酸與酒精度，收結豐富而優雅。
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Baron Gassier Provence Rosé 2o11 84 2013
2014D
Edrington Hong Kong Ltd. // 2891 8086
$78
Joey Tsang Clear, pale shimmering pink with a hint of orange. Very refreshing, shows red currants, orange zests and citrus on the nose, floral, elegant aromas. Nice acidity, medium-bodied, dry. It expresses grapefruit, a hint of raspberry and cranberry on the palate. Well balanced and some vanilla notes at the finish. A good aperitif. 淡淡的粉紅色與橙色。很清爽，帶紅葡萄乾、橙皮和柑橘、花卉等 優雅的香氣。不錯的酸度，中等濃郁，乾身。西柚、淡淡的覆盆 子、蔓越莓的口感，很好的平衡，以及收結時的一些香草味道。一 款很好的開胃酒。
Kelvin Cheng Clean, dry bright light-orange color with watery rims. Clear, medium intensity with sweet lemon, ripe apples, white flowers and a touch of vanilla. Dry, fine acidity with a medium body; soft tannins with medium alcohol. Crisp and refreshing balance with an elegant medium finish. 清澈而乾身，明亮的橙色，水漾的邊緣。中等強度的甜檸檬，熟蘋 果、白色的花朵、淡淡的香草味。乾身、帶精緻的酸度，中等濃 郁，單寧柔和，中等酒精。清新爽口，酒體平衡優雅，回味中等。
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$220
Bernard Magrez Le Clos Des Muraires 2o1o 83 2013
2014D
Telford International Company Ltd. // 2612 2310 // www.closdesmuraires.com
Hood Hon Medium onion skin core with some highlights. Moderate to intense ripe peach, hint of oxidative notes of nuts and almond. Off dry quite flabby, cream and nutty notes, over ripe peach and some vanilla, medium finish. 中等洋蔥皮的顏色。中度至強烈的成熟桃子，一點點氧化的堅果和 杏仁味。帶些微甜度，奶油和堅果，也有一些成熟的桃子和一些香 草，回味中等。
Kurt Wong Pale salmon clean color. Aromas shows the wine is mature and should be drink now. It has a peach and tropical fruit aroma. This is a complex wine, balancing have to be improved. 淡淡的三文魚顏色。香氣顯示出這款酒已 經成熟，現在已經適飲。有著桃子和熱帶水果的香氣。這是一款複 雜的葡萄酒，平衡還有待提高。
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Editor’s Choices Eddie Chui: We found diversified preferences from our panel tasters. Some like the refreshing style which is well suited for the coming summer, while some others, including me like the more intense, rich style of Provence Rosé. I really would like to have more choices for Rosé from Provence, but there are too little in the market. For me I prefer these salmon coloured Rosé coming from the south of France, to the bold lattern red Rosé found in other regions. I like those with a bit of oak aging, which give the Rosé more complexity and body. Price is not the main indication for quality but more on the style of the wine. My choices includes the elegant Domaines Ott Château de Selle 2011 and the Château d’Esclans Les Clans 2008 which comes with great intensity and complexity. 我們的各個評審有不同的取向，有些喜歡清新的風格，非常適合即將來臨的夏季，但也有些評審，跟我一樣 喜歡較豐厚、濃郁的Provence Rosé。在市場上實在較難找到很多選擇，但我覺得Provence Rosé是有定的 潛力的，相對其他產區那些大紅的Rosé，我更喜愛Provence Rosé的釀造方法，而我較喜愛的風格是那些 帶點橡木陳年，為酒釀加多一點複雜感及豐厚的口感，這些酒配搭食物上來會較容易。價格不是用來區分品 質的因素，反而是反映她們的釀造方法及風格。
Ian Wong: Perhaps it may be indicative of Hong Kong’s market, but it was difficult to come by a great variety of Provence rosé for our tasting. If anything, these wines show a very classical style of Provence wine, which is generally salmon coloured, light, and refreshing. But I found many of the wines lacked the minerality and salinity that I like in a top Provence rosé, and balance was especially an issue with some wines. Still, there were some delights like Château Les Valentines Rosé 2011, Domaines Ott Château de Selle 2011, and Château d’Esclans Les Clans Rosé 2008. 可能這可以反映香港請場的取向，但其實很難去作出結論，因為 Provence的 Rosé實在太多樣化了，有不 同的風格。他們都能表現經典的 Provence 得格，三文魚的粉紅色酒體，輕盈而清新。但有不少的酒都缺 少我認為是很重要、具代表性的礦物鹽風味，酒的平衡更是其中一些酒的問題。但當中仍有不少佳作， 如：Château Les Valentines Rosé 2011、Domaines Ott Château de Selle 2011、及Château d’Esclans
Les Clans Rosé 2008。 Joe Lo: In fact, even only a dozen bottles of rosé reveal a variety of differences—there were a kaleidoscopic array of attractively pink hued wines, especially the pale salmon colour which to us always means refreshing summer wines. Among the many wines, my favourite is Domaine d’Astro Vin de Pays des Maures 2011, which had a moderately dry fruitiness, well-balanced flavour, and a great freshness from the structured micro-bubbles. In addition, Baron Gassier Provence Rosé 2011 didn’t rank that high on our tasting, but at a price of $78, it is a superb value. 其實，單單是十多瓶 Rosé 放在一起，各式各樣的酒瓶，透出內裡淡淡的粉紅色酒液，已經非常吸引， 尤其是那種淡淡的三文魚色，簡直是夏日消暑的最佳酒款。在眾多的酒款之中，我最欣賞的是 Domaine
d’Astro Vin de Pays des Maures 2011中除了那乾身帶適中果味、平衡的味道外，那些微的petillance氣泡 更是帶來清新感覺的亮點。另外，Baron Gassier Provence Rosé 2011雖然排名並不高，可是，以$78的 超值價錢來說也絕對是物「超」所值！
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Conclusion
In fact one of the reasons that rosé is so welcome is that, besides its attractive colour, the structure of rosé is simple and welcoming; it is an ideal summer wine. Also there isn’t a single definitive style of rosé here, each winemaker has their own interpretation, as there are so many producers in the region. This time during our tasting we haven’t set a price range, as we wanted to find the most enjoyable rosé on the market that is also readily available. Irrespective of blend (rosé in Provence is mostly Grenache and Carignan), rosé also shows great differentiation due to the influence of the winemaker and vintage, as all wines are. We wanted to show how rosé can be different, and in the absence of a price range, we can see the style of the more expensive rosé versus the more affordable rosé. Most of the wines were from $100-$200 dollars except from the most prestigious wineries, but even then high scores were spread out equally amongst both wines from all price ranges. So one doesn’t have to spend a lot to have a fantastic rosé! 其實Rosé之所以受女士歡迎，除了那誘人的粉紅色外，酒的結構簡單，給人一種容易入口的感覺，更 是炎夏的理想葡萄酒。而Rosé最令人著迷之處，並不在於追求某種特定的風格，在普羅旺斯，雖然有 很多莊園都以釀製Rosé為主，可是他們所生產的酒卻不是千遍一律的。 是次的Rosé品評亦如是，我們只把範圍定於地區層面上，不論價錢、不論混釀的品種，目的便是要包 含不同風格和特性的Rosé，我們也沒有刻意地去挑選每一款酒，目的也是希望能夠呈現本地市場上常 見的一些酒款或者風格。在沒有價格的範限下，我們這次拿到的樣品除了其中少量出名的品牌定格稍 高外，大部份都介乎於$100-$200左右；而今次的品評雖然亦有評分，但大部份酒款的分數前後也不相 差多於一分，可見其質量之間的相近。（換句話說，在這些Rosé當中，其實只要選一個喜愛的酒瓶， 入面裝著的酒也絕不能差到哪裡去！）
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The World of
Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we meet with Leonardo Frescobaldi who introduces the new vintages of Castel Giocondo, their winery in Brunello di Montalcino. Then we have two Cru Voyages in the stalwart regions of France: Bordeaux and Burgundy. Ian Symonds traverses through much of the region, trying the great diversity of the wines, while Cru visited many of the most prestigious estates in Bordeaux as part of a wine tour. Even though there are always great new wine regions, Italy and France remain dear to our hearts. 我們每期在World of Wines環節都介紹不同的酒釀或釀酒師，今期我 會專訪Leonardo Frescobaldi，他為我們介紹在Brunello di Montalcino的 Castel Giocondo的新發行酒款。同時也到訪了兩大法國主要酒區：波爾 多及勃艮第。Ian Symonds暢遊了差不多整個勃艮第，而我們也到訪了 波爾多各個華麗莊園。面對新興的產區，意大利及法國仍然是最吸引人 的地方。
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The Elder Statesman – New Vintage Release of CastelGiocondo 元老級的CastelGiocondo –
Leonardo Frescobaldi, President of Marchesi de’Frescobaldi English Text and Images by Ian Wong // Translation by Hei Cheng
When Leonardo Frescobaldi first began making wines with his two brothers
「起初我們只是抱著玩樂心態，就如大多數的年輕人一樣。」這就是
Ferdinando and Vittorio, he told us that, “Like many young fellows we were
Leonardo Frescobaldi 與兩位兄弟 Ferdinando 和 Vittorio 初次釀酒的情
just having fun. But because our father wanted us to have the passion to
景，他告訴我們：「父親希望我們成為充滿熱誠的釀酒師，所以我們不去
be winegrowers, instead of beaches, we went to vineyards. Always it was
沙灘，改而去葡萄園，從心愛上葡萄園，永遠最為重要。」
important to have a love of the vineyard.” Frescobaldi 家族經營葡萄酒已有相當長的歷史，他們擁有多個 Tuscan Wine runs deep in the Frescobaldi family, and legendary Tuscan estates
傳奇莊園超過 700 年，例如 Tenuta di Castiglioni 。事實上，若果有一
such as Tenuta di Castiglioni have been in the family for over 700 years.
個家族和 Tuscany 血脈相連，非 Frescobaldis 莫屬。多年前，我首兩支
In fact, if ever there were a family inextricably connected to the blood of
Tuscan 葡萄酒，都是從 Frescobaldi 而來－ Castello di Nipozzano 的
Tuscany, it would be the Frescobaldis. My two very first Tuscan wines
Chianti Riserva ，和無與倫比的 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 優秀三軍酒，
years ago were both from Frescobaldi—Chianti Riserva from Castello di
Le Volte 。
Nipozzano, and Le Volte, the superb third wine from the incomparable Tenuta dell’Ornellaia.
至於 Brunello di Montalcino 又怎樣呢？即使在 Marchesi de’Frescobaldi
But what of Brunello di Montalcino? Even before Marchesi de’Frescobaldi
現，它正正是三兄弟用熱誠和愛，將這偉大的莊園成為一線地區。
釀出 Tenuta di Luce della Vite 之前， Tenuta di Castelgiocondo 經已出
acquired Tenuta di Luce della Vite there was Tenuta di Castelgiocondo, where it was precisely the passion and love from the three brothers that
「當我們前往Brunello，我們幸運地找到這個特別區域，專用來種植
brought this great estate back to the forefront of the region.
Sangiovese，那是1970年代的事了，當時我和兄弟才剛開始愛上
“When we went to Brunello, we were lucky to find this special area for
Montalcino ，但沒有把它奪下來。」 Leonardo 解釋道。
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Sangiovese. This was back in the 1970’s when my brothers and I started our love affair with Montalcino. But we didn’t own it,” explained Leonardo. Instead, they consulted on the land and slowly brought the vineyards back to health, as they weren’t in the best of shape originally. When the opportunity arose in 1989 to acquire the land, they snapped up the offer. “We replanted every vine when we took over, so the vines were all young back then,” said Leonardo. “Now they are reaching great maturity.” This year marks the release of the CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2008, and the CastelGiocondo Riserva ‘Ripe al Convento’ Brunello di Montalcino 2007, two great vintages from the region. “While the normal bottling is more consistent and the quantity is a lot higher as it is from a blend of vineyards, Ripe al Convento is from a single vineyard, and hence is less predictable.” With a proper decant, the CastelGiocondo 2008 opened up and was stunning, really a fantastic Brunello, but the Ripe al Convento really highlighted the unique terroir of the land. “Ripe al Convento is located at the highest elevation to produce the best Sangiovese. The best part about it is the altitude, the rocks and the soil; but the south west exposure requires a long ripening period—which having a high elevation helps with.” Only 30,000 bottles a year are produced of Ripe al Convento, which is aged for 2 years in barrique and Slovenian oak.
Leonardo’s take on the recent CastelGiocondo vintages: Leonardo品評近年的 CastelGiocondo： “2007 was a very balanced season. Very well structured. The
只因當時該田地不是處於最佳狀態，經過他們悉心照料，慢慢地讓它重回
wines have great longevity. Masculine wines.
健康狀況，到了 1989 年，他們便趁機買入該地。 Leonardo 說：「當我們
「 2007年是非常平穩的一季，結構良好，可陳年很久，是一款
接手時，我們重新種植每一顆葡萄樹，所以當時它們都十分年輕，現在它
雄性的葡萄酒。
們經已極之成熟了。」
2006 was warmer, more feminine, round, and velvety. Wines
今年該區出產了兩支偉大年份葡萄酒，品質最為超卓， CastelGiocondo
from this vintage won’t require much ageing to be ready.
Brunello di Montalcino 2008 ，和 CastelGiocondo Riserva ‘Ripe al
2006年則比較溫暖、女性化、圓潤和柔順，不用陳年太久，都
Convento’ Brunello di Montalcino 2007 。
可享用這個年份的葡萄酒。 「混合田釀製的葡萄酒，風格比較一致，產量亦會高很多，而Ripe
Our wines from 2003 are starting to be in a great moment now.
al Convento來自單一田，因此難以預料。」經過適當的酒醒程
2003 was also quite warm, with lots of concentration.
序， CastelGiocondo
我們 2003年的葡萄酒，今天已踏進偉大時刻， 2003年亦是很熱
置信的優秀 Brunello ，而 Ripe al Convento ，則確切地突出了其獨特的
2008 便開放出來，表現技驚四座，是一支難以
的一年，濃度極之高。
土釀性質。
2005 instead had more tradition. Very harmonious wine. A
「 Ripe al Convento 位 於 最 高 海 拔 ， 其 高 度 、 石 塊 和 泥 土 較 佳 ， 它 面
vintage that will age like 07.
向西南，需要較長的成熟期，但是有其高海拔協助，能出產最優秀的
2005 年 的 則 比 較 傳 統 ， 是 一 款 很 和 諧 的 葡 萄 酒 ， 與 07 年 的 相
Sangiovese 。」 Ripe al Convento 於 barrique 和 Slovenian 木桶中陳年 2
似，可陳年很久。
年，每年產量只得 30,000 瓶。
My favourite vintages are 2005 and 2007, but I also love 2008, 2000, and 1990 if you can find them.” 我最愛的年份為 2005年和 2007年，但是我也愛 2008年、 2000 年和 1990年，如果你能找到它們的話。」
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Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Tel: 3180 3424 // Web: http://www.jebsenfinewines.com
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Bourgogne
the certified educator’s view 認可導師的觀點
English Text: Ian Symonds // Translation: Sophie Siow
The train was quiet, roomy and I had completely forgotten how fabulous Northern France could look in early June. It was green, so bright with shades from the youth of light green to the middle age of the leaves on the trees. It had been raining before I arrived and the rivers and streams sparkled madly in the sun that bathed the whole countryside. As tired as I was from the long flight to France the vivid contrast between the dullness of flight and this train journey was wonderful. When I got out of the train in Beaune the reality of where I was and what I was about to start really hit me. Here I was in France, in Bourgogne and in Beaune, virtually the centre of possibly the best winemaking region in the world. Bourgogne is the most mystical wine area in the world, the hardest to study, the wines the most difficult to understand and appreciate and the whole French thing with ‘terroir’ made me catch my breath. 坐在安靜寬敞的火車上，才發現我已經完全忘記了法國北部在六月初是如此風光明媚。綠意洋洋，樹上的葉子處處 煥發著那年輕的淺綠色和盛年般的深綠色調。在我到達之前，這裡一直在下雨，整個農村裡的河流和溪流都沐浴在陽 光下，瘋狂地閃耀著。飛往法國的長途旅程帶來的疲憊與這趟火車旅程的精彩形成鮮明的對比。直至我在Beaune下 了火車，我才真正意識到為自己身在何處和將要做什麼。我就在法國，在Bourgogne和Beaune，就在可能是世上最 好的酒區的中心。Bourgogne是在世界上最神秘的葡萄酒區，它的酒最難去研究，最困難去理解和欣賞；法國人對 「terroir」的一套，更讓我不禁喘口氣。
The BIVB and Bourgogne
BIVB和Bourgogne
The next morning we set out for the L’ecole du Vin in Beaune I rapidly
第二天早上，我們出發到位於Beaune的L’ECOLE DU VIN。在課堂裡，我很
realized in class that my viticulture and winemaking knowledge was sound,
快意識到我對葡萄種植和葡萄酒釀造的知識是合理的，我的品酒技能也能達
my tasting skills were trainable to Bourgogne standards but my detailed
致Bourgogne的標準，但我對這區域的詳細地理知識只能說是僅僅足夠。於
geographical knowledge of the region was barely adequate and no better
是，我把研究集中在地圖上，並把知識連接到地圖上，然後再把關於每一區的
than that. My studies then focussed on the maps and putting the facts onto
一點一滴連接到我所擁有的知識。我們的導師，Jean-Pierre Renard 擁有超過
them and linking the issues in each area to those facts. Our tutor, Jean-Pierre
40年在勃艮第生活和勃艮第葡萄酒業工作的經驗。我想，他一定曾經覺得，
Renard, has over forty years of living and working the vines and wines of
我們永遠不會明白climats和lieux的細節，帶或不帶單極狀態或封閉CLOS！但
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他慷慨地與我們分享他對這片土地深刻的瞭解，為什麼僅僅一排的葡萄便可以 分別是一瓶AC Bourgogne，一瓶 Premier Cru 或一瓶Grand Cru 的一部分。 我們沒有在葡萄園裡花任何時間，幾乎整個早上，我們都在教室裡，然後我們 便外出到酒區裡各間經過精心挑選的酒廠去進行美好得難以置信的品酒。在這 第一天，我們專注於勃艮第的概述，和一些有關 Cotes de Beaune 的細節。 這意味著我們要吸收大量的資訊，然後品嚐酒，（通常是蒙眼的），繼而發現 任何級別的勃艮第葡萄酒裡的細微之處，都足以混淆很有經驗的人。 午飯後，我們參觀 了Maison Bouchard Pere et Fils 去聽聽關於葡萄中介人/酒 商的事。在同時進行著的品酒環節裡，他們說明和展示了自己和其他種植者的 葡萄酒 。最叫人印象深刻的可算是從「Notre Dame de Bonne Esperance」 雕像那裡看到的景色 。在我們的左邊是Corton山，遠處是Chalon-sur-Saone,
Beaune, Chagny, the Montagne de Beaune 和 Savigny-les-Beaune；在我 們的右前方不遠處是Pernand Vergelesses村莊——我們近得可以認出它就是
Macon。這是驚人的，因為我面前的就是整片的Cotes de Beaune。我恍然 Bourgogne. There must have been times when he felt that we would never
大悟，原來Bourgogne是這麼小的，難怪Jancis Robinson把Cote d’Ory形容
get the details of climats and lieux-dit, with or without monopole status or
為“幾個面向南邊和東南邊的小山坡”！
enclosing clos! What he generously gave us was his depth of understanding of the lay of the land; how one row could be parts of an AC Bourgogne, a
接下來是一頓以「有機」葡萄酒為主題的晚飯。儘管在 Bourgogne只有一個
Premier Cru and even a Grand Cru, and all within it’s length. We did not
不清不楚的註冊系統，這裡正積極地發展有機，甚至生物動力耕種。毫無疑
spend any time in vineyards, most mornings were in a classroom then out
問，將來這裡會推行有關的規管，屆時，消費者便可以更清楚瓶子裡的葡萄酒
through the region to carefully selected wineries for incredible tastings. On
是如何種植和釀造。
this first day, we focused on Bourgogne in general and some detail about the Cotes de Beaune. This meant taking in vast amounts of information and then tasting, usually blind, before the realization that the subtleties of any level of Bourgogne wine could confuse even the more experienced.
Macon和MERCUREY 翌日，行程很早開始，我們開車南行到 Macon 和 Cote Chalonnaise ；先是 在 Macon的 L’Ecole du Vin中心上課和品酒，然後就到了 Domaine Thibert
After lunch we visited Maison Bouchard Pere et Fils to hear about the issues
Pere et Fils 吃飯品酒。在這Pouilly-Fuisse和St Veran的所在地， 我們上了
of being a negociant / wine merchant. The tasting with this illustrated both
Bourgogne Cremant 的精彩入門一課。Cremant是新鮮製造的，只會在飲用
their own wines and those of other growers. The most striking thing we were shown was the view from the statue of ‘Notre Dame de Bonne Esperance’. On the left of us was the hill of Corton, in the distance Chalon-sur-Saone, Beaune, Chagny, the Montagne de Beaune, Savigny-les-Beaune and right in front the village of Pernand-Vergelesses; in fact so clear was it that we could just make out Macon. This was stunning as here in front of me was all and more of the Cotes de Beaune. It dawned on me that Bourgogne is tiny; Jancis Robinson describes the Cote d’Or as a few unspectacular S and SE facing slopes! This was followed by an amazing dinner featuring ‘organic’ wines. The drive towards organic and even biodynamic is strong in Bourgogne and this despite an unclear system for registering what is what. No doubt in time the regulations will be put in place and consumers will be clearer about how the wine in the bottle was grown and made. Macon and Mercurey Day two, early start, the drive down to Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise; lecture first at the L’Ecole du Vin centre in Macon with tasting, then to Domaine Thibert Pere et Fils for lunch and tasting. This is the land of PouillyFuisse and St Veran and we also had an amazing introduction to Cremant de Bourgogne. In my experience we do not get terrific Cremant in Hong Kong yet, but freshly made and disgorged with only days before drinking, we were treated to fabulous quality dry white before food and a delicate rose with dessert – these beyond the regular wines produced by this superb winery.
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Struggling to leave this wonderful place, mainly because of stunning wine
前幾天才倒出。上菜前，我們飲著這些極高質素的白酒；在吃甜品時，我們
and food, we moved back towards Beaune and stopped at Cave de Lugny.
飲著雅緻的Rose—它們的質素比這家出色酒莊所釀造的常規葡萄酒更勝一
This is the largest producer as a cooperative of Cremant as well as a range
籌。由於這裡的葡萄酒和食物太美好了，我們掙扎著離開這個美妙的地方，
of Macon wines. Then before we could finish note-taking we were off to
在回到 Beaune的途中，我們在 Cave de Lugny停下。它是幾種 Macon酒和
Mercurey and Domaine Du Meix Foulot. My notes for these fabulous wines
Cremant最大的合作生產者。很快地，在可以完成記筆記前，我們已經啟程到
are appalling but they were superb and the lesson on ‘terroir’ from vines only
MERCUREY和Domaine du Meix Foulot。儘管我的品酒筆記寫得很差，這裡
yards apart but facing slightly different ways was almost magical. If there are
的酒其實是十分傑出的。他們以幾尺之內，但面向稍為不同角度的葡萄樹為
winemakers who could be sub-titled ‘magical’ or even ‘illusionists’ it is those
例，教導我們甚麼是「terroir」—這課堂可說是神奇的。如果有釀酒師能被
of Bourgogne. This vineyard had the almost obligatory resident dog this one
冠以「神奇」，甚至「魔術師」之名，他定是來自Bourgogne的。葡萄園裡住
was a big hit with the ladies it seemed.
著一隻盡責的狗，它似乎是很受女性們歡迎。
Beaune, Barrels and fizz Wednesday, day three, was a more specific look at Beaune and the Hautes Cotes de Beaune. The tasting this morning was a real challenge as it ranged from Saint-Aubin to Pommard to show us the breadth of Bourgogne. Our first visit then was to a cooperage, Tonnellerie Francois, now here I was a little more comfortable as this whole process was something I had seen and studied before. What still fascinates me is the speed with which an oak tree trunk becomes a barrel!
The almost mystical combination of
flame and water to encourage the staves of oak to bend to the will of the cooper and his strength as the barrel takes shape is amazing to see. We were all ‘celebrity spotting’ in these rarified lands of Bourgogne and it was not long before one eagle eyed student spotted Aubert de Villaine and his winemaker selecting barrels. The advice from our tutor was not to disturb them! We had lunch in Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet,
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oddly enough no surprise as we had been treated like minor royalty since we had arrived. But to my personal joy and delight who should stroll in but Dominic Lafon, possibly Bourgogne’s greatest white wine maker. This time our tutor simply called him over, announced who we were and the handshakes and greetings were made. This is the man who famously would only spit Australian Chardonnay on the ground outside of his winery and when asked by Jancis Robinson to comment on the wine could only glance at the camera and shrug his shoulders.
After a superb lunch we were off to Maison Parigot-Richard, famous for it’s Cremant. The wines were superb, the top priced wine was a gimmick, he admitted quite freely, but had been incredibly difficult and technical to make – Cremant Rose with gold flakes inside the bottle! We returned through the lovely village of Pernand-Vergelesses with a winery stop. Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine was cleverly built into the hill so the winery was on different levels. The wines of this Domaine were again superb, this village has begun to catch the attention of wine-writers! Dinner was a themed wine tasting on the differences of climats and how the whole system of parcels of land associated to wine quality and flavours works. This was a serious challenge to the palate and the mind; there are potentially around sixty thousand possible label combinations in Bourgogne, all reflecting terroir.
Beaune，木桶和有氣酒 星期三，第三天，具體去看看 Beaune和 Hautes Cotes de Beaune的一天 。 今天早上的品酒是一個真正的挑戰，為了向我們展示了Bourgogne的廣度， 所試的酒從 Saint Aubin 到 Pommard 都有。我們第一個去的地方是一家叫
Tonnellerie Francois的製桶工場。在這裡，我終於感到比較輕鬆一點，因為 我曾經看過和研究過整個木桶製作的過程。話雖如此，我對於橡木樹幹變成 酒桶的速度依然嘆為觀止！看著火焰和水神奇地隨著製桶工人的心意和力度 把橡木槓扭曲成酒桶，實在叫人驚異。在這不常有機會到訪的地方，我們都 努力地找尋名人的蹤影，不一會，一個特別眼利的同學便認出正在挑選木桶 的 Aubert de Villaine和他的釀酒師。我們的導師告訴我們不要去打擾他們！ 我們在Puligny-Montrachet的Le Montrachet吃了午飯，很奇怪，這頓飯並沒 有帶來太大的驚喜，因為過去幾天，我們一直像小貴族一般被接待。就在這 時，Bourgogne利最偉大的白酒釀酒師Dominic Lefon慢慢地走進來，叫我高 興不已。這一次，我們的導師乾脆把他叫了過來，介紹著我們是誰，然後互
Chablis and St Bris. Chablis, day four, I really like Chablis and certainly on this day learned more about why I like the wines, how they are made and why I think some are good and others maybe less so. Jean Pierre gave us his usual fast-paced lecture
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相握手和問候。他就是那個只會把澳洲Chardonnay吐在自己的酒莊門外，當
Jancis Robinson請他評論一下那杯酒時，只聳聳肩膀，看著鏡頭不發一言的 傳奇人物。 精美的午餐後，我們前往以Cremant聞名的 Maison Parigot-Richard。葡萄酒 是一流的，他直接地承認他們頂級價格的酒只是一個噱頭，不過，釀造帶有金 粉的Cremant Rose 確實是極度困難和需要很好的技術。我們經過 Pernand
Vergelesses這可愛的村莊回去，途中又探訪了一家酒莊：Domaine DubreuilFontaine。酒莊巧妙地依山勢建成，所以酒廠是在不同的層次上。這個酒莊的 葡萄酒也是一流的，這個村已經開始吸引到葡萄酒作家的注意了！晚餐是一
and tasting at the BIVB centre in Chablis and we were off to what might be perceived as the HQ of Chablis – La Chablisienne. This co-operative was founded in 1923 and now comprises some 300 wine-growers making around 25% of the total from the small Chablis region. The mark of the place is the unique limestone and marl with the fossilized mini-oysters ‘Exogyra Virgula’. The famous minerality, ill defined and difficult to justify scientifically, is bound up with the aromas and flavours of Chablis. If you get the opportunity
個以climats的差異和整個土地劃分系統如何影響酒的質量和口味為主題的晚 宴。這是一個對味覺和腦袋的嚴峻考驗，因為在Bourgogne，可能潛在六萬個 左右的標籤組合，每個都反映著不同的Terroir。
Chablis和St BRIS 第四天， Chablis。我真的很喜歡 Chablis，毋容置疑，在這天，我對我為什 麼這麼喜歡這種酒，它們的製造，和它們質素參差的原因有了更多的了解。
to taste from Petit Chablis, through Chablis and onto Premier Cru and if really fortunate Grand Cru Chablis then do so and experience the extraordinary flavours as the wines reflect their terroir and age. Lunch and a frantic crawl through vintage characteristics, my notes resemble a winemaking nightmare – hydric stress, rain affected photosynthesis resulting in sappy flavours and acid : sugar ratios out of line, good and bad phenols with and without sugar maturity…….the notes of a man facing a
Jean Pierre一如以往明快地講課，在Chablis的 BIVB中心試酒後，我們出發 到可以被視為 Chablis HQ 的酒莊－La Chablisienne。這個合作社成立於
1923年，現在包括大約300名葡萄酒種植者，所種植的葡萄佔Chablis地區約 25％的總產量。這裡的特色是「Exogyra Virgula」這種迷你蠔化石為它帶來的 獨特的石灰岩和泥灰岩味道。這種著名的礦物還沒有明確定義，亦未被科學驗 證，但它被視為與Chablis的香氣和味道息息相關。如果你有機會品嚐到Petit
Chablis，接著試試Chablis，再品嘗Premier Cru，甚至幸運地試到Grand Cru Chablis，好好把握這個機會，體驗terroir和陳年為這些酒帶來的非凡的味道。
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tough examination in 48 hours! The afternoon session was almost relaxing in that we visited an ancient cellar in St-Bris-le-Vineux. The wines of course were made including the other extraordinary grapes of Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris in the whites and some Cesar in the reds. Dinner was a pleasure and a luxury as we looked at ‘old vintages’ from the BIVB cellars. The Cotes de Nuits Day five, and as if to push home to us that this was not a week of casual consumption of good food and fabulous wine the pressure was notched up. The tasting and lesson was on the Cotes de Nuits and the Hautes Cotes de Nuits, we then headed into Morey-St-Denis and later to Gevrey-Chambertin. The first port of call was the amazing Domaine Taupenot-Merme, the wines were pure, complex, emphasized the terroir, organic, balanced – I could go on? The winemaking was passionate, maybe we had become used to this passion in Bourgogne but this Domaine appeared to take it a step farther. I have pages of tasting notes in a rather pathetic attempt to put the wine into words. In the remainder of our last day of study we visited another stellar winery,
午餐後，我飛快翻閱各年份的特質，發現我的筆記是一個惡夢：「氫氣壓 力，雨水影響光合作用，導致sappy的味道和酸：糖比脫節，好的和壞的酚， 有糖無糖的成熟…。」—而這些筆記屬於一個將在48小時內面臨一個艱深 考試的人！ 下午的行程可說是輕鬆的，我們走訪了一家在 St Bris-le-Vineux 的的古 老地窖。這裡葡萄酒當然包括 Bourgogne 裡其他的特別葡萄：白酒裡有
Sauvignon Blanc 和Sauvignon Gris ，紅酒裡有一些Cesar。用晚餐時，我們 研究著BIVB酒窖的「老酒」，這簡直是奢侈的享受。
The Cotes de Nuits 第五天，壓力湧現，仿佛在提醒我們，這並不是享受美食和美酒的休閒一 周。在 Cotes de Nuits 和 Hautes Cotes de Nuits 上了品酒課後，我們前往
Morey-St-Denis，再到GEVREY-Chambertin。 我們先在令人驚訝的DOMAINE Taupenot Merme停下，他的酒純淨、複雜、 凸顯terroir、有機、平衡 - 我可以一直寫下去嗎？它對釀酒充滿激情，也許我 們對Bourgogne酒莊都擁有的這種激情已經習以為常，但這家酒莊的卻似乎 比其他酒莊有過之而無不及。我寫了好幾頁的品酒筆記，努力嘗試後仍無法 準確以文字形容這裡的酒。
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Domaine Des Perdrix. This family business with five estates under one name talked about wines comparing them to raising children. This may seem slightly off-beat but in a way it makes some sense, they were nurturing and
在研究的最後一天剩下的時間，我們參觀了另一個主要酒廠：Domaine Des
Perdrix 。這擁有五個冠以相同名字的物業的家族企業以養兒育女和釀酒比 較。這也許稍微有點奇怪，但在某種程度上，它有一定的道理。他們在整個 過程培育和關懷它，同時讓它在酒瓶裡自由地表達自己。
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caring for the whole process whilst giving it freedom to express itself in the final bottles. Bourgogne educator exam Saturday dawned, the last day, also possibly the first with a new accreditation. Looming large was a thirty-question exam on which we had been given only the very least of hints as to content and then a tasting, about which we knew nothing! The paper was suitably difficult, a mix of short answers and much longer paragraphs, I can only recall waves of panic as detail evaded me. The tasting was different, we had been encouraged to use terms that were appropriate for the L’Ecole du Vin and not specific to any other wine school or tasting system. There were nine of us, so nine wines. The first pass was to write notes on each wine in only a few minutes per wine, these were then taken away for marking. The second pass was to draw a number from a hat and then write a detailed note and assessment of that specific wine, these notes were then taken away for marking. Finally we had to present our wine from the draw to the examiners and the rest of the class as if in a teaching situation and without notes. The results were shared individually after a coffee break; seven students of the nine were successful. Lunch was in more relaxed mood in a Beaune café. Dinner that night however was formal, with the presentation of certificates and a stellar line up of wine. Cremant de Bourgogne to start then. Chablis, Corton, Criots-Batard Montrachet, Clos de Vougeot and Mazoyeres-Chambertin all selected to illustrate their climat and their Grand Cru status.
Bourgogne導師考試 週六終於來到了。這是旅程的最後一天，也可能是獲得新的認可的第一天。 迫在眉睫的，是一個有三十條問題的筆試，而我們只得到極少有關考試內容 的提示。接著會是品酒環節，對這環節我們一無所知！試卷的難度適當，混 合著短答和長篇的題目。回想起來， 我只能記得因為想不到一些細節所帶來 的一陣陣恐慌。 品酒考試是特別的，我們被鼓勵使用 L’Ecole du Vin 的術語，而不是使用任 何特定的其他葡萄酒學校或品嚐系統的術語。我們有9個人，所以有9杯酒。第 一題，我們要在幾分鐘內為每杯酒寫品酒筆記，寫好了，它們便被拿去打分。 第二題，我們先要從帽子抽一個號碼，然後為抽到的酒寫一個詳細的說明和評 估，寫好了，它們又一次被拿走去打分。最後，我們要模仿在課堂上教導學 生，在沒有任河筆記的情況下，在考官和其他考生面前介紹抽中的酒 。 小休後，每人各自得獲告知考試結果；9個學生中，有7人成功考獲認可資格。 帶著比較輕鬆的心情，我們在 Beaune 的一家咖啡廳享用午餐。晚上的晚 餐相反是正式的，有頒發證書的環節和一列明星陣容的葡萄酒供品嘗。 從 Cremant de Bourgogne 開始，到 Chablis ， Corton ， Criots-Batard
Montrachet，Clos de Vougeot，每杯都經過精挑細選來表現他們的CLIMAT 和它們的Grand Cru地位。
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Bordeaux Pilgrimage 朝拜波爾多名莊 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong
All around the world, the name Bordeaux carries a heavy weight. It is the spiritual centre of the French wine regions, whose legendary wines have swept hundreds of thousands of fans around the world. By the Gironde, which flows from the south to the north, Bordeaux is split into two categories: Left-Bank and Right-Bank, each with a unique beauty of their own. The wineries on each side, majestic and grand in their own rights, consist of names that every wine professional should surely know, so let us embark on this pilgrimage through the grand châteaux of Bordeaux. 波爾多，一個相當具份量的名字。這裡是法國葡萄酒的中心產區，也是風靡萬千葡萄酒迷的一塊傳奇的土地。由 Gironde河由南向北一分為二，波爾多的左右岸各自有著獨特的美態，這裡的酒莊在葡萄酒界更是無人不識，就 讓我們踏上這條朝拜波爾多名莊之旅吧。
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All around the world, the name Bordeaux carries a heavy weight. It is the spiritual centre of the French wine regions, whose legendary wines have swept hundreds of thousands of fans around the world. By the Gironde, which flows from the south to the north, Bordeaux is split into two categories: Left-Bank and Right-Bank, each with a unique beauty of their own. The wineries on each side, majestic and grand in their own rights, consist of names that every wine professional should surely know, so let us embark on this pilgrimage through the grand ch창teaux of Bordeaux. First as we enter the storied city of Bordeaux, one can see all the Renaissance and Neoclassic-era buildings still standing, as the city has been preserved remarkably well. Walking through the streets, we passed
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首先到達的波爾多城，極目遠望，一片濃厚的法國城市風情，建築物依舊是昔 日原貌，穿梭其街道之中，走到了著名的The Squares of Old Bordeaux，可 見當地市民於這鼎鼎大名的世界文化遺產城市中隨意的閒逛，生活相當寫意。 越過 Gironde 河便是波爾多的右岸，亦是我們酒莊探訪的第一站— Saint-
Emilion。Saint-Emilion是一個十分古老的鎮，原來古羅馬人自二世紀便開始 在Saint-Emilion種植釀酒葡萄，時至今日，Saint-Emilion已經是法國境內、 甚至全世界出產最受追捧的「舊世界」葡萄酒地區之一。同樣名列世界文化遺 產的Saint-Emilion古城內，座落著一所非常經典，被酒迷稱之為白馬酒莊的
Château Cheval Blanc。屬於「波爾多八大名莊之一」，白馬酒莊的外表一 派法式的閒適低調，酒莊建築物旁邊排列著修剪整齊的草叢花園，乾淨利落。
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by the various squares of Old Bordeaux, and the locals of the city seemed to enjoy simply strolling through famous World Heritage sites. Along the Gironde on the Right-Bank, our first stop was Saint-Emilion. Saint-Emilion is an ancient town in Bordeaux, and the Romans first began planting grapes there as early as the 2nd century. The varietals now made famous around the world as Bordeaux varietals have long been established here, and Saint-Emilion is responsible for some of the most sought after Old World wines, like the classic Cheval Blanc. As a Premier Grands Cru Classé A winery, it is one of the most respected and revered wines in the region. Yet curiously enough, when we visited, the winery was quiet and low-key; only a few small winery buildings were arranged alongside a wellmanicured grass garden, kept neat and tidy. 從右岸回到波爾多城，天色已經漸漸入黑，四五月的天氣在入夜之後仍然十 分清涼，披上一件薄外套後又走到廣場上，遠眺著河的對岸，可以深深地感 受到波爾多，這個名字的份量、透露著這個地方的輝煌。 第二天很早便要起床出發了，因為這天我們的目的地是Gironde河中游沿岸的
Pauillac，由於路程較遠，我們要一大早出發，經過兩旁盡是山丘起伏的葡萄 園地一路向北，到達了另一間著名的酒莊—Château Lynch Bages。它跟白 馬酒莊一樣都擁有一個中文別名，由於讀音相近，Château Lynch Bages又 被酒迷稱為「靚次伯」。建於17世紀的靚次伯為了讓遊客能夠更具體地見證 酒莊的發展歷史，保留了一個1947年已經開始使用的葡萄酒生產車間予遊客 參觀，而且酒莊自1989年以來更不斷邀請世界知名的畫家為酒莊作畫，放在 這個古老的車間裡。 同樣座落於Pauillac的還有著名的Château
Mouton Rothschild和Château
Beychevelle。Château Mouton Rothschild座落於一個小山丘上，與著名的
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Château Lafite Rothschild只有一步之隔，整個酒莊連同外圍的一大片草地 形成了一片絕美的風景，低調、卻氣派不凡。Château Beychevelle在1855 年的評級制中被定為列級酒莊之一，也有著一個有趣的別名「大龍船」。話說 原來酒莊的名字Beychevelle由來十分顯赫，16世紀的時候酒莊莊主Epernon 公爵深受當時的亨利三世寵幸，於是每當有船經過酒莊前的Gironde時，船員 都會大喊一聲「降帆！」，讀音正正就是今日酒標上仍然可以見到的酒莊名字 「Beychevelle」。 遊過了Pauillac後，我們又一路向南往回走，在另一天我們走到了Grave，一 個距離波爾多城相當近的釀酒區 Pessac-Leognan。來到了 Château Haut-
Brion的大門外，感覺充滿著莊嚴肅穆的氣氛，原來16世紀的時候酒莊由傳教 士管理，並且在莊園內建立了一座教堂，所以這裡處處都充滿著宗教氣氛， 宗教神像擺放著每一個角落。離開Haut-Brion後，我們來到了Château Smith
Haut Lafitte，一間非常美麗、充滿閒適感覺的一所酒莊。來到這裡當然要好 好拍照了，尤其是葡萄園中的那隻免子石像，更是酒莊的標誌之一。
We visited Bordeaux in May but the weather was still cool and dark. Along the Right-Bank, the squares of Bordeaux were still very cold (especially after midnight), and we had to wear coats even so late into spring. Still, overlooking the estuary one could get a deep feel of the region and the weight of tradition that lies within each grape; there is a splendor to both the wines and land of Bordeaux. Paulliac came next, which lies in the middle of the Gironde, so we departed early up towards the north until we reached another famous winery: Château Lynch-Bages. Like Cheval Blanc, it has an interesting Chinese name due to the similarities of the Chinese characters and the sounds of the French names. Built in the 17th century, Château Lynch-Bages allows visitors to witness the history of the winery, as a workshop preserved since 1947 showcases how traditional remains key to the success of the winery.
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Also located in Paulliac is the famous Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Beychevelle. Château Mouton Rothschild is located on a small hill, with the famous Château Lafite Rothschild only a step beyond the periphery of the winery, as the two grounds are adjoined. Château Beychevelle was designated Fourth Growth during the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, and is called the “Dragon Boat” winery in Chinese for its label. Many say the origin of the name Beychevelle was due to its ownership in the 16th century by the Duc’Eperon, who was Admiral of France. Everytime a ship would enter the Gironde, the crew would yell “drop the sails” in French, which changed from the words “baisse-vaille” to its current incarnation. Swimming across the Paulliac we can head south towards Graves, which we went to on another day. Graves is close to the wine region of Pessac-Leognan, and the great winery Château Haut Brion is almost symbolic of the area. Built in the 16th century, the original winery is solemn and was managed my missionaries; in the manor there is a church, so religious statues and icons are arranged everywhere, with ornaments in every corner. After leaving Château Haut-Brion we went
不說不知，原來Château Smith Haut Lafitte的女莊主兩名女兒分別母親的啟 發，分別創立了葡萄護膚品牌Caudalíe Paris和五星級酒店Les Sources de
Caudalíe及首家位於波爾多的水療中心Vinothérapie Spa®。在如此洋溢法式 浪漫風情的環境中，使用波爾多葡萄產品的美容療程，又或者在水療之際呷 一口Smith Haut Lafitte的紅酒，不就是完完全全的波爾多葡萄享受嗎？
to Château Smith Haut Lafitte, which was very beautiful and full of quiet grandeur of a winery. Of course we came here to take photos, including of their most famous statues. You may or may not know that the owners of Château Smith Haut Lafitte have two daughters that created a skin care brand, Caudalie Paris, and a restaurant and spa, Les Sources de Caudalie. In an environment filled with such romantic French style, using Bordeaux grapes for therapy and treatment, why not enjoy a nice glass of Smith Haut Lafitte while in the spa?
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波爾多的父與子
Sons of Bordeaux
English Text: Brinda Bourhis // Translation: Sophie Siow
Bordeaux like many French wine regions is anchored in history and properties have been passed down from one generation to the next. Taking over from ones father who may have been a figure-head in the wine world can sometimes be a daring task for a young son building his career in wine. Today the challenge is also trying to keep the winery in the family faced with the administrative obstacles. Brinda Bourhis, CRU magazine’s French correspondent takes a look at different father and son profiles from Bordeaux. The report focuses on the contrasts and similarities between the two generations, on their way of running a wine business (sometimes still together) and their vision on the future of family-held estates in Bordeaux. 一如許多其他的法國葡萄酒產區，波爾多有著悠久的歷史，當地很多產業都是一代一代承傳下來的。對於一個正在葡萄酒界建立自己 事業的年輕兒子而言，從作為葡萄酒業界領導人物的父親手裡接管產業，有時可以是一個勇敢的任務。除此以外，他們今天還要面臨 新的挑戰：克服一個個行政障礙，盡力保留家族的酒莊。《釀．生活》的法國通訊記者Binda Bourhis採訪了波爾多的三對父子。這 報道將聚焦於兩代人之間的異同、他們運作（甚至一起共同運作）葡萄酒業務的方式，和他們對家族酒莊的展望。
Jean-François Mau and Jean-Christophe Mau
For the moment, time has not come for Jean-Christophe to pass over the
The Mau family was particularly known for their wine merchant business
reins of Chateau Brown, his children are still very young and he has years
called Yvon Mau, and Jean Christophe represents the 5th generation.
ahead of him in pursuing his passion and adventure in winemaking.
His ancestors developed the firm that initially sold bulk wines before developing the activity in only bottled wine sales. The Maus throughout the generations have been sales-oriented even if on the side they own some
Mau家族尤其以他們的葡萄酒商業務Yvon Mau 聞名， Jean﹣Christopher是
wine estates. Commerce is in their blood, and although Jean-François
第五代的代表。他的祖先開發的公司，最初只銷售散裝的葡萄酒，後來才
Mau sold his company Yvon Mau in 2001, he stayed on as a consultant
發展成只銷售瓶裝酒。Mau家族過去幾代一直以銷售為主，儘管他們令外擁
for several years and his son Jean-Christophe today remains the Grands
有一些酒莊。他們血液裡好像流著貿易這成份。雖然Jean-François Mau在
Crus Buyer.
2001年已經賣掉Yvon Mau，他依然在Yvon Mau留任顧問了好幾年，他的兒 子Jean﹣Christpher今天仍然是一位Grands Crus買家。
Although both father and son share many characteristics: hard workers, realistic, rigorous and believe in family values (as well as physically
雖然父子倆有著許多共同的特點：努力工作，求實，嚴謹，並相信家庭觀念
resembling each other adds JC Mau) there is one passion closer to Jean-
（JC Mau補充他們的長相也很相似），Jean﹣Chrstopher的心裡卻有另一個
Christophe’s heart and that is winemaking. His father explains ‘I studied
愛好：那就是釀酒。他的父親解釋說：「我讀的是商科，在 Yvon Mau的工
business, worked in the commercialization at Yvon Mau and have never
作是把酒商業化，我從未對釀酒有過太大的熱愛。我覺得這是一個緊張的工
had a great passion for winemaking. I find it a stressful job because of
作，因為大自然使得它很難預測銷售，或建立一個商業計劃，而我在 Yvon
Mother Nature, making it hard to forecast sales, establish a business plan
Mau 做的正正就是這些。」
as I used to do at Yvon Mau’. 然而，JF Mau還是會時不時到Chateau Brown﹣Mau家族在Pessac Leognan
However, this does not stop JF Mau from dropping by from time to time
擁有的酒莊－去幫忙。他並不是在葡萄方面提供幫忙，而是在市場營銷或財
at Chateau Brown, the property the family owns in Pessac Leognan to
務問題方面。
give a helping hand, not in the vines but for marketing or financial issues. Jean-Christophe added ‘I enjoy having a double-job though and could not
Jean﹣Christopher說：「我喜歡有著雙重的工作，但我不能在酒莊裡全職工作。
work full-time in a wine estate. Dealing with the Grands Crus sales at Yvon
在Yvon Mau裡處理Grands Crus的銷售工作能帶給我所需的腎上腺素。」
Mau gives me the adrenaline I need”. 展望未來和下一代，Jean﹣Francois 表達了他的關切。 時至近日，在高地價
Looking to the future and the next generation, Jean-François
和法國的稅收制度之下，要保持一個酒莊在同一個家族旗下是困難的。看看
expresses his concern. ‘Today with high prices of land and the French
Medoc，那裡買下酒莊的都是大型的工業集團，很少會是家族。
tax system, it will be hard to maintain a chateau in the same family. Just look at the Medoc, over there big industrial groups have taken
目前為止，Jean﹣Christopher還不打算把Chateau Brown的業務傳給下一代，他
over and very rarely families.’
的孩子還很年輕，而他面前還有很多年讓他追求他對釀酒的激情和冒險。
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The Absolute Elixir 絕對的
English Text and Images by Ian Wong // Translation: Hei Cheng
Although Absolut Vodka dominated the early vodka market and helped
雖然Absolut Vodka壟斷了早期的伏特加市場，更於80至90年代間，幫助雞
redefine cocktails throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, we have to admit our
尾酒重新定位，我們卻無可否認，這幾年對它產品的熱情，已減退了很多。
enthusiasm for their products has dimmed over the last few years, as
尤其是它推出另一款果味伏特加，平平無奇，只留下糖精的餘味。（誰想要
release after release of yet another uninspired, fruit-flavoured vodka (Absolut
Absolut Tune？氣泡Sauvignon Blanc和伏特加的混合體…）
Tune anyone? A mix of sparkling Sauvignon Blanc and vodka…) ended up leaving a rather saccharine taste in our mouths.
但是感謝它們最新的作品，Absolut Elyx，最終在2012年，於世界各地頂尖酒
But thankfully their latest creation, Absolut Elyx, an artisanal wheat vodka,
感，結構複雜，奶油般的質感，充滿堅果和香料的香味，實屬匠心之作。它絕
has finally hit our shores after teasingly appearing around the world in top
對是一款優秀作品，與世界頂級小麥釀製伏特加如Ketel One看齊，甚至更好。
吧的揶揄聲中，震撼登場。Absolut Elyx為一款小麥釀製伏特加，清爽和乾身口
bars since 2012. Crisp and dry on the palate, but complex with a creamy nuttiness and a touch of spice—this is most certainly a premium product,
當我們在香港的新酒吧 Origin ，與 Absolut Vodka 的品牌大使 Rebecca
one on par (and perhaps even better) than other top wheat vodkas such as
Almqvist會面時，她稱Absolut Elyx的優雅味道，成為她最愛的伏特加。有趣
Ketel One.
的是，她在芸芸味道中，最喜愛大茴香，更會挑選它為Elyx martinis的配料， 而非傳統Absolut的橄欖。
When we met Absolut Vodka’s Brand Ambassador Rebecca Almqvist in one of Hong Kong’s newest bars called Origin, she called it her “favourite vodka
Absolut Elyx來自單一莊園，位於離瑞典南部Åhus 25公里的地區，其土釀特
from the range, with very delicate flavours.” Interestingly, she also picks out
質顯著，自1921年起，便以銅塔蒸餾法添加伏特加的特質。只用挑選過的冬
star anise amongst the flavour characteristics, and chooses to garnish her
小麥和地下天然泉水，以銅塔蒸餾法淨化伏特加，有別於「四重蒸餾法」，不
Elyx martinis with anise, while using the standard olive for Absolut original.
會生產淡如水的伏特加。
As a “single estate” vodka from a 25km region in southern Sweden called
Rebecca更呈獻她的特別創作，名為Copperface，是一款經典雞尾酒的新調
Åhus, there is a strong emphasis on the terroir of the land, and using a
配。她說：「Elyx應該用在雞尾酒上，才能凸顯其香醇，所以大部分我調配的
copper column still from 1921 certainly adds character to the vodka. Only
經典雞尾酒，都是以它來改編。」
selected Swedish winter wheat and underground spring water is used, and copper distillation naturally purifies the vodka, distinguishing it from the “quadruple distilled”, but flavourless vodkas that crowd the market. Rebecca presented one of her special creations called the Copperface, which is a tweak on a classic. “Elyx deserves to be in a cocktail that shows
Recipe:
Absolut Elyx Copperface 50ml Absolut Elyx 15ml Calvados 10ml Apricot brandy Orange twist
the spirit. So most of the drinks I made are adaptations from classics.”
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Fill three quarters full with ice and stir for 45 seconds. 用冰塊填至3/4滿，攪拌45秒。
3
Measure Absolut Elyx, calvados, and apricot brandy into a mixing tin. 按量放置Absolut Elyx、calvados和apricot brandy於調酒瓶裡。
5
Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. 濾出至冷凍的雞尾酒杯裡。
4
Add in orange twist and serve.
Press oil from an orange twist over the drink.
添加橙皮扭條，上桌。
從橙皮扭條榨出油滴。
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Integrated Comfort 簡單、直接的好幫手 English Text : Ian Wong Translation : Eddie Chui
In today’s connected world, almost anything can be accomplished with the mere tap of a fingertip. Smartphones and tablet computers keep us online during our travels, although useful integration of this technology with a key element of a journey—the hotel—has yet to become mainstream. D&H Hospitality, a mobile app specialist company, has just released a new system however called HGA, which aims to link seasoned travellers with hotels. If tired after a long haul flight and desiring little else but to sink quietly
在今天的互聯世界中，可以完成幾乎所有的東西，僅僅抽頭的指尖。智能手機
into your bed, HGA offers an online bridge between the guest and
和平板電腦在網上讓我們在我們的旅行中，雖然這項技術的關鍵要素的有效整
hotel services. Room service, laundry e-forms, newspaper selections,
合的旅程酒店還未成為主流。
restaurant reservations, check-in’s and out’s, and even spa treatments can be ordered and browsed at will.
一個移動應用程序的專業公司，D&H
Hospitality，剛剛發布了一個新的系統，
但被稱為HGA，旨在將酒店經驗豐富的旅客。
All this requires is a simple code input at the front-desk into your smartphone, and guests can use the app in a variety of languages (as provided by the
如果厭倦了長途飛行後，希望其他小但下沉悄然進入你的床，HGA提供了一個
hotel group). For hotels as well, there are clear advantages. Along with the
在線的客人和酒店的服務之間的橋樑。可以訂購客房服務，洗衣電子表格，選
benefits of having enhanced customer service, each hotel can also send
擇報紙，餐廳預訂，檢查出來的，甚至水療護理，意志和瀏覽。
messages directly to in-house guests, keeping them updated on special activities or promotions.
所有這一切都需要是一個簡單的代碼輸入到您的智能手機的前台，客人可以使 用各種語言的應用程序（如家酒店集團提供的）。酒店也是如此，有明顯的優
D&H Hospitality have previously designed the iPad menu “Wine & Dine”,
勢。隨著具有增強客戶服務的好處，每家酒店還可以發送郵件直接向入住的客
so hotel groups will be pleased to hear that this experienced group have
人，讓他們更新特殊的活動和促銷活動。
built the new system in an equally integrated fashion, whereby each change on the admin systems is automatically updated on both the
D＆H款待先前設計的iPad的菜單「Wine & Dine」，所以酒店集團將可高興聽到
guests’ smartphones and the iPad menus potentially used in restaurants.
這個經驗豐富的組建新系統同樣集成時尚，據此，在管理系統上的每個變化時 自動更新上都客人的智能手機和iPad可能用於餐廳的菜單。
As more and more hotels sign up for this service, look forward to the day where you as the guest no longer have to leave the comfort of your freshly
隨著越來越多的酒店簽署了這項服務，期待您作為嘉賓不再有新鮮繪製浴下令
drawn bath to order that chilled bottle of Champagne.
冷凍一瓶香檳離開舒適的一天。
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S h a n g h a i S o u l
GR NDE The New 2013 Ultimate Luxury
LUCARIS A Luxury Brand of Ocean Glass PCL. www.lucariscrystal.com
Lucaris.indd 1
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il Pollenza 2007
Porpora 2008
PiusIX Mastai 2008
Cosmino 2004
Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver（90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100
Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses
Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze （89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation
Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012
Wines In China Evaluation 2011
Duemilavini 4Grappoli
2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli
Angera 2011
Didi 2011
Duende 2010
Brianello 2010
Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012
Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012
Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011
Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli
Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk
000_IL POLLENZA.indd 1
Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop
2721 5211
G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST
www.kimberleywineshop.com
96 Boham/ The Wine Shop
2972 7888
G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK
www.96bonham.com.hk
ABC Wines Limited
2380 6883
No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST
www.abcwines.com.hk
2380 6670
G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN
1/3/13 4:14 PM
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En Primeur Investment (Part 2) 酒花投資指南（二）
Text & Images: Eddie Chui // Special Thanks: Dennis Lok , 柯偉文
Wyman Ke 柯偉文
Dennis Lok
Last time we invited Dennis and Wyman to talk about the general picture
上次我們請來Dennis及Wyman概略講述了酒花投資的運作，不少人會有疑問
of en Primeur trading. Some people might question why the wineries don’t
為什麼酒莊不直接出貨，跟世界各地的入口商交易，而要以酒花的方式經過
work with importers around the world themselves but through the négociant?
négociant發售呢？Dennis就此解釋道：「首先，以波爾多列級莊為例，一瓶酒
Dennis explained, “for any Bordeaux Grand Cru, a bottle of wine need to stay
由葡萄收成到出廠所需的時間大約要兩年多至三年的時間。釀酒的時間只需個
at the estate for about two and a half to three years before selling. Of course
多月，但對波爾多酒來說最花時間的會是在橡木桶陳釀，一般來說需時18至24
fermentation need about one month, but it is the aging in oak barrel which
個月不等，然後裝瓶後也要多存放在油窖約半年才正式出貨，因此酒莊的酒窖
will normally take 18 to 24 months, and then after bottling, we still need them
基本上是存放著兩至三個年份的酒，這是很大的成本。因此酒莊想到預售酒花
to stay in the cellar for another 6 months before releasing to the clients. It is
的方法，來減輕流動資金的壓力。Négociant便作為酒莊與客人的橋樑，也會幫
common for a château to have 2 to 3 different vintages of wine in the cellar
助酒莊去推廣他們的酒釀。」
at the same time. The stocking of wine would put some pressure on the cashflow of the chateau. Therefore they are trying to sell the wines before
Négociant的優勢是他們可承諾酒莊每年的貨量，再向不同市場的批發商或私
releasing in a form of en primeur.”
人客戶銷售，而且因為通常他們坐擁不同酒莊的貨源，因此可以一次過向市場 推銷不同的酒釀，相對來說推廣費用比起只推銷一個酒莊的酒化算得多，而且
Négociant can guarantee an undertake from different estates, and promote
貨源也會較充裕。而négociant也分為不同的類型，有的專注於替不同的小型酒
the wine to importers and distributors in different market. As they are
莊去推廣、分銷他們的酒釀；也有專門做名莊酒的négociant。柯先生提到：「
promoting all the wines on their list to the market, it is more efficient than just
跟我合作的négociant，是屬於專門從事名莊酒為主的，他跟各大酒莊的關係密
pushing only one label of wine. They can also provide more choices for their
切，手上擁有各大酒莊的第一手貨源，加上在世界各地的銷售網路，幫助酒莊
customers. In France there are different types of négociants, some focusing
營銷手上的存貨或推銷酒花，他們也作為客戶跟酒莊溝通的橋樑，讓酒莊了解
on helping the boutique wineries to sell; while others might be focusing on
市場的情況而作出適當的酒花定價及營銷策略。」
fine wines. Wyman pointed out that the négociant they are working with is focusing on fine wines from Grand Cru châteaux, they are familiar with all the
好像2012年的酒花，大部分的酒莊都願意把價格調低，來迎合市場狀況，首
wineries and have direct allocations from them. They help them to build up
先，2012年整體的天氣情況對葡萄酒來說並不理想，在en Primeur品酒中，大
the worldwide network of sales and promote their wine overseas or organize
部份的專家都認同這並不是一個偉大的年份，不能跟2009或2010相提並論，有
events for them. They are helping the wineries to communicate with clients
好些表現優秀的酒莊都不敢太進取，定價太高。我們下次再討論一下過去投資
overseas and give comments on the pricing and marketing strategies.
酒花的回報表現，及部分的名莊酒的價格走向。
Like in 2012 en Primeur, many châteaux are willing to listen to the market and reduce the initial prices. This vintage is not as glorious as the 2009 and 2010 as the weather of 2012 shows less favourable conditions for vine growing. Next time we will look at the past return of en Primeur investment and the
Enquiry: Club Peng Pai Tel: +86 (757) 6386 1961 www.clubpengpai.com
trends of pricing of some Grand Crus.
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HOFEX 2013 Concludes to Great Success
畫上圓滿句號 - 2013 酒店餐飲設備商貿展
Rising Popularity
人氣飆升
HOFEX 2013 has finally finished and was a resounding success,
HOFEX 2013終於圓滿結束，並取得了空前成功！是次商貿展吸引了
having drawn together 37, 817 visitors from around the world,
37,817 位來自世界各地的遊客，參加人數自 HOFEX 創辦以來一直有增無
marking a clear improvement from each successive year since the
減。遊客數目比去年更有達 13.2% 增長，不講不知，部分為數不少的遊客
creation of HOFEX. It is also a 13.2% increase from the number
更為了不錯失每個攤位， 選擇連續幾天到訪。根據記錄，因是次活動到訪
of visitors last year, and quite a number of guests even came on
香港會議展覽中心的總人次，達 50,000 人之多。
subsequent days in order to successfully cover the entire exhibition; in total, nearly 50,000 visits were recorded at the Hong Kong
擁有超過 60,000 平方米展覽空間、超過 13 個展銷廳，更匯集了來自世界
Convention and Exhibition Centre.
各地 48 個國家和地區的企業，超過 1,900 展覽單位，展出過 10000 種商 品：作為年度最大展覽會之一， HOFEX 成功為無數產品供應商與他們的
As one of the largest exhibitions of the year, HOFEX draws together
客戶牽上了紅線。
businesses from all across the world, helping to connect suppliers and the clients who require their products. With over 60,000
在 HOFEX 展覽會場上，你可以見到很多來自世界各地而在香港難得一見
square meters of space over 13 halls, there were 1,900 exhibition
的啤酒、烈酒和食品。除了香港人熟悉的產品類別，有些更是聞所未聞，
companies from 48 countries and regions, displaying over 10,000
新引入香港市場的“奇珍”，令人大開眼界。只要置身 HOFEX ，所有有
different exhibitions. Everything was available at HOFEX, including
關酒店的用品與設備，以及任何能想到或想不到的烹飪設備都一應俱全。
beers, spirits, and food products that we’ve recognized from
豈止如此，咖啡、茶、肉類、海鮮、蔬菜、水果、酒、甚至有機牛奶等食
abroad, but have never seen here in Hong Kong. And besides those
品和飲品更是多不勝數。
recognizable products, there were even many completely unheard of products jostling for a piece of the Hong Kong market. We saw
快樂與營商
hotel supplies, hospitality technologies, equipment for every single
穿梭於 HOFEX 的攤位，保證一個星期都不愁沒餵飽你對美食的好奇！
kind of cooking imaginable, as well as coffees and teas, meats,
上述提過，要行完所有攤位，必須用上數天啊！不是誇大，只是參展的火
seafood, vegetables, fruits, wine, and even organic milk.
腿，就足夠你花上幾個小時了，有需要的話，更可走到葡萄酒進口商的攤
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位嚐一口珍味，真是人生一大快事。所以說， HOFEX 除了是商家碰頭的 地方，更是一個娛樂好去處。 華而踏實的展場 面積大及參展商數目多並不是 HOFEX 的主要賣點，而是在於參展商的市 場地位。 11,351 個來自澳洲、中國、澳門、意大利、韓國、菲律賓、新 加坡、泰國及美國等國家和城市的商家齊集此地，目的是採購與建立商務 網。這群為數不少的採購團及大部分參與人士都是行內的決策者，其中包 括食品飲料，進口、零售和服務等，他們都為著其行業的特殊需要而物色 特定貨品。 黃金地段 黃金機遇 香港坐落在亞洲的心臟地帶，地理位置優越，加上來自全球各地的航班幾
乎都能於香港落客，這點足以令香港成為商務及入口的主要樞紐，尤其葡
Pleasure and Business
萄酒入口更是 0% 稅，這亦成為其中一個吸引外商之處。 HOFEX 除了助參
Walking through HOFEX can both satisfy your culinary curiosity for a week, and like mentioned above, definitely required more than one day. One could even spend a few hours looking at just the cured hams they were exhibiting, and if one so desired, a quick trip after that to some wine importers could mean that HOFEX was both great for business and pleasure. Depth and Reach But size isn’t everything in HOFEX, and what matter is not just the number of buyers that made their way to the exhibition, but also the stature of the businesses involved. 11,351 visitors made their way from countries and cities like Australia, China, Macau, Italy, Korea, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, USA, and etc., with sourcing and networking strictly on their mind. This is a huge number of
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展商打入亞太市場，更讓他們與具潛力的合作夥伴接洽，擴展大陸市場。 很多參展商都對這個為期 4 天的展會感到非常滿意，皆因他們能在短短數 天就能開拓大量商機，看來 2015 HOFEX 是事在必行的了。
令人心癢的項目
HOFEX 提供了一個非常具交流性及建設性的平台，目前為止已有超過 50 個項目通過 HOFEX 成功舉辦。業內專家除了有很多不同的機會介紹及分 享心得，更可於不同論壇中與行家接洽。 好像最近由 Cru 跟 Bacchus Fine Wines 合作舉辦的一次活動，由官方教授
Ian Symonds 主講及介紹布根地葡萄酒 DOMAINE Doudet Naudin ：是 次活動獲得空前成功，報名人數超額幾倍，有未能入場的人士表示非常失
buyers and also a majority of the visitors are prime decision-makers for their respective industries, which include food & beverage, importing, retailing, and hospitality, who often require very specific products for their line of business. Prime Location Ideally situated in the beating heart of Asia, or at least, where almost every country stops by during flights, Hong Kong is a major hub for business and importing, especially as wine has a zero percent tax here. HOFEX helps exhibitors enter the Asia-Pacific market and also meet other prospective partners to expand over the continent. Many exhibitors were highly satisfied with the vast amount of business opportunities that arose during the 4-day show, and confirmed almost immediately for the next edition of HOFEX in 2015.
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Inspiring Events Over 50 events were held over the course of HOFEX, which provided a platform for discussion and inspiration. Industry experts in their respective fields were given plenty of sights to talk about, as well a forum in which to meet each other. One particular example is our own Cru event that we organized with Bacchus Fine Wines, which highlighted the wines of Domaine Doudet-Naudin with Official Burgundy Instructor Ian Symonds. It was a full-house at the event, with many disappointed onlookers vowing to register earlier next for the event! Another event was the Live High Tea Set Competition, which was won by Chung Sin Wan Frankie from Ritz Carlton Hong Kong, so
望，誓言下次必定提早報名，不會放過下次機會。 其他活動包括在香港麗思卡爾頓酒店舉行的“現場下午茶比賽”， 最後由
Frankie Chung 勝出，想知道有多美味？你也來麗思卡爾頓酒店親身試試 這個得獎作品吧！至於糕點烹飪方面，香港半島酒店的 Marijn Coertjens 亦在“現場朱古力裝飾擺設比賽”中獲得最高殊榮。此外，
McCafe 的
Rachel於香港咖啡大師賽得到冠軍，令人喜出望外；而Ivy亦在Coco Espresso 中贏得拉花比賽冠軍！ 事先張揚
HOFEX 2015將於2015年5月6日至9日假香港會議展覽中心再度舉 行， 2013 年參加過的參展商中，已有達 80 ％預留了空間。有興趣的話歡 迎到 www.hofex.com 預留空間，或與主辦單位接洽
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be sure to check out their set. Pastry cooking was represented by the Live Chocolate Showpiece Competition, and Marijn Coertjens of the Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong picked up the top prize for that. Over four days, the Grand Barista Championship saw Lai King Sum, or Rachel from McCafe, a surprising champion; Lai Kwok Ying, or Ivy, picked up the Grand Latte Championship for Coco Espresso. Next Edition HOFEX 2015 will return on the 6th to the 9th of May in 2015 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and 80% of all the 2013 exhibitors have already reserved a space. Book quickly for the fair on www.hofex.com, or contact the organizers for details.
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Local Organiser: Hong Kong Exhibition Services Ltd. Address : Unit 1203, 12/F, Harcourt House, 39 Gloucester Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : +852 2804 1500 Fax : +852 2528 3103 Email : exhibit@hkesallworld.com Contact : Ms Karina Yu
International: Overseas Exhibition Services Ltd Address : 12/F, Westminster Tower 3 Albert Embankment London SE1 7SP United Kingdom Tel : +44 (0)20 7840 2146 Fax : +44 (0)20 7840 2111 Email : hofex@oesallworld.com Contact : Ms Fiona Murray (Food & Drinks) Mr Fraser Hawkes (Equipment)
ASEAN / South Asia: International Expo Management Pte Ltd. Address : No. 1 Jalan Kilang Timor #09-03 Pacific Tech Centre Singapore 159303 Tel : + 65 6233 6777 Fax : +65 6233 6768 Email : davin@iemallworld.com Contact : Mr. Davin Er
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本地主辦機構： 地址 : 香港展覽服務有限公司 香港灣仔告士打道 39號 夏愨大廈 12樓 1203室 電話 : +852 2804 1500 傳真 : +852 2528 3103 電郵 : exhibit@hkesallworld.com 聯絡人 : Ms Karina Yu
海外合作機構： 地址 : 12/F, Westminster Tower
電話 : 傳真 : 電郵 : 聯絡人 :
3 Albert Embankment London SE1 7SP United Kingdom +44 (0)20 7840 2146 +44 (0)20 7840 2111 hofex@oesallworld.com Ms Fiona Murray (Food & Drinks) Mr Fraser Hawkes (Equipment)
東盟/東南亞：: 地址 : International Expo Management Pte Ltd.
電話 : 傳真 : 電郵 : 聯絡人 :
No. 1 Jalan Kilang Timor #09-03 Pacific Tech Centre Singapore 159303 + 65 6233 6777 +65 6233 6768 davin@iemallworld.com Mr. Davin Er
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Cru Magazine Grand Tasting 2013 2nd Anniversary Party 《釀．生活》兩週年酒會
Special Thanks: Lucaris, Transtherm, Serenity Fair Limited, Eclipse, House Of Fine Wines,Mikimoto Cosmetics, Princess Cruise, Cunard, Collezione, Bacchus Fine Wines (Asia) Ltd., and Pernod Ricard Hong Kong
On May the 2nd 2013, our team at Cru Magazine celebrated our
在上月 2 日，我們《釀．生活》在旺角朗豪酒店舉辦了兩週年酒會，我們
second ever anniversary with a grand tasting at the Langham
在 2013 年正式踏入了第三個年頭。是次酒會分為兩部分，分別是下午的
Place Hotel in Mong Kok. The event was split into two sessions:
傳媒及業界時段，及傍晚的公眾時段。
a media and trade session, and a public session. 是次活動我們聯同 UbiFrance 法國商務部及 Le French GourMay 法國五
During the event we worked with UbiFrance and Le French
月美食節，讓來賓一嘗我們在 5 月號所評審過、的 60 多款出色的勃艮第佳
GourMay to showcase the amazing Burgundy wines that
釀。與此同時，我們也請來不同的入口商，展示他們的酒釀。在此我們希
we featured in our May Panel Tasting, as well as a series of
望感謝以下的參展酒商： Adega Royale 、 Altaya Wines 、 Apex Cellar
partners who served a selection of wines from their portfolios.
Limited、Bacchus Fine Wines (Asia) Limited、Caliu、Catangi
On that note, we would like to thank: Adega Royale, Altaya
Limited 、 Cin Cin Company Limited 、 Double W in Corporation
Wines, Apex Cellar Limited, Bacchus Fine Wines (Asia) Limited,
Limited 、 Edrington Hong Kong 、 HWC 、 Jebsen Fine W ines 、
Caliu, Catangi Limited, Cin Cin Company Limited, Double Win
Kedington Wines 、 Links Concept Company Limited 及 Max Scene
Corporation Limited, Edrington Hong Kong, HWC, Jebsen Fine
Wineshop 。他們帶來超過 100 款佳釀讓各位來賓品嚐。
Wines, Kedington Wines, Links Concept Company Limited, and Max Scene Wineshop. Each company brought six wines for
同 時 ， 我 們 獲 Per nord Ricard Hong Kong 及 Bacchus FIne W ines
our readers and fans, which along with the UbiFrance stand,
(Asia) Ltd. 提 供 Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 、 G.H. Mumm Cordon
resulted in over 100 wines.
Rouge 及 Champagne Mailly Grand Cru 香檳給我們的來賓一同慶祝我們
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut, G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge, and
中表現最突出的 12 款酒釀。
的兩週年。我們也頒發了獎杯給在過去一年來在我們每月的 Panel Tasting
Champagne Mailly Grand Cru were flowing freely throughout the day, and many glasses were raised for our trophy winners, which
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年踏入第三年，我們會不斷努力，打造更好的《釀．生活》，期待 2014 年再跟大家見面。
were the local importers that had submitted the highest rated wines for our monthly panel tastings over the past 12 months. Hundreds of our partners and fans came throughout the day, and we would like to once again thank you all for coming and for supporting Cru since 2011. We’ve grown tremendously since our humble beginnings two years ago, and look forward to 2014!
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Hip Cellar ╳ Ta Pantry Private Dining & Catering Hip Cellar 品味酒窖 ╳ Ta Pantry星級私房菜
From left : Ms Constance Yiu, Mr Sunny Tan, Ms Esther Sham, Mr Erastus Yu & Mrs Yu, Mr Paul Kwok
美酒，往往離不開佳餚，兩者更是營造出生活品味的重要元素，要擁有品 味高尚的生活質素，從美酒佳餚入手更是不二法門。三五知己置身於舒適 而品味獨到的環境中，摸著酒杯底談天說地，喝著精緻的佳釀，一邊欣賞 窗外的美景，簡直是最美好不過的時光。 專業藏酒與交流平台 在剛過去不久的 4 月 30 日，以品味酒窖及星級私房菜為主打的 Hip Cellar 與 Ta Pantry 便於北角隆重開幕。 Hip Cellar 結合一站式酒窖，私人藏酒服 務以及由 Ta Pantry 星級廚師沈依紅小姐（ Esther Sham ）主理的星級私 房菜餐廳，真正集美酒佳餚與生活品味於一身。佔地 12,000 平方呎的 Hip
Cellar 除了設有 1,155 個符合香港品質保證資格（ HKQAA ）的儲藏酒櫃 私人儲藏專區及儲藏室，酒窖亦配備溫度及濕度調控系統及嚴密的保安監 管，提供信心的保證。
Wine, often inseparable from food, is an essential part of a discerning lifestyle, and knowledge of what we consume is as much a part of
會員專屬的私密空間
entertainment as it is for our own enjoyment. Being comfortable in
Hip Cellar 除了著重葡萄酒儲藏的實際功能性之外，更是葡萄酒愛好者互
a unique environment while being able to hold the slender stem of
想交流與分享品酒心得的絕佳平台，在儲藏專區外更設有坐擁無敵維港景
a wine glass, enjoy a stunning view and good company, and having
致的 Hip Lounge 酒吧， 能夠在充滿英法風情的 Hip Lounge 中讓會員與摯
a good vintage wine are all part of what Hip Cellar and Ta Pantry
友分享交流。另外又設有 Director’s
are about.
打造一個會員專屬的私密空間。 Hip Cellar 更會首不時舉辦試酒會、葡萄
Room 以及三個不同主題的貴賓房，
酒主題旅遊等活動，安排會員能夠與葡萄酒專家會面交流，更加讓會員深
Professional Cellar and Communication Platform
入探討葡萄酒的精彩世界。
On April 30th, Hip Cellar and Ta Pantry, a wine cellar and private kitchen respectively, held their joint Grand Opening in their new
精心設計與裝潢
location at North Point. Hip Cellar combines a wine cellar, operation
擁有無敵海景的酒窖與酒廊室內設計當然也經過精心佈局， Hip Cellar 特
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services, as well as the superb food from celebrity chef Esther Sham, who runs a kitchen staff with experience from Michelinstarred restaurants. Though there are other wine cellars, none have the perk of being located next to one of the most sought-after private kitchens in Hong Kong. Hip Cellar has 12,000 sq. feet of space, which contains 1,155 individual cellars, each following the strict HKQAA certified fine wine storage standards. With controlled temperature and humidity, wines here will last for decades safely. An Exclusive and Private Space Besides functioning mainly as a wine cellar, Hip Cellar hopes to be a hub for wine lovers, where they can share bottles and exchange
Ms Esther Sham, Mr Erastus Yu, Ms. Donna Chu and friends
information and stories. With unrivaled views of Victoria Harbour, there is a Hip Lounge Bar that features French and British designs
別邀請了國際著名建築及室內設計師梁志天先生（ Steven Leung ）聯同
and furniture. In addition, there are 3 themed private VIP rooms and
關永權照明設計公司參與酒窖設計，以充滿時代感、而又不失英法風格的
a Director’s Room for even more personalized and private tasting
素材構造出如此別具氣息的氛圍。
spaces. Hip Cellar will hold regular wine tastings, wine-themed tourism events, and other activities where members can meet with
型格又浪漫的美食國度
experts to learn more about the wonderful world of wine.
擁有穩重爾雅的英式風格以及法式浪漫情懷的不只 Hip Cellar ，由 Chef
Careful Design and Decoration
於城市中的隱世私房菜餐廳搖身一變，成為一個型格而浪漫的醇酒佳
The design of Hip Cellar is one of the most intriguing aspects of the
餚世界。 4 月 30 日開幕當日到場的來賓踏著西班牙式黑白拼花地磚的長
service, as aesthetics play a large part in the comfort of the guest. Hip
廊，穿過深灰色條子布紋牆紙及旁邊的木書櫃，感受充滿書香與醇酒的
Esther 親自構思，設計裝潢同樣充滿英法風情的 Ta Pantry 亦把這間藏
Cellar have worked with famous architect and interior designer Mr. Steve
悠閒寫意。設計師亦應 Chef Esther 的要求以茶具、美酒及高爾夫、以
Leung and Tino Kwan Lighting Consultants to feature a contemporary
及公雞，三個不同的主題設計出三間具有不同歐陸格調的貴賓房，以古
and attractive, yet functional space with British and French influences.
董櫃子、法式掛畫、公雞藝術擺設等元素打造出集功能與美感於一身的
They’ve managed to construct a delightful yet elegant space.
靈活組合活動空間。
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Cru Review Gourmet Country On April 30th guests from all over Hong Kong descended into Hip Cellar to be greeted with Chef Esther’s fine creations with great wine, as they were entertained in this hidden world of Old World style and cuisine. Spanish monochrome mosaic tiles matched with the dark gray walls and somber wooden bookcases, leaving a scholarly and wine soaked feel. Following this dedication to old Europe, the themes for the three different rooms were odes to wine, golf, teaware, and marked by the common motif of a rooster. Antiques littered the ground along with other art on the walls, creating a blend of beauty and function in a flexible space.
From left : Mr Alan Wong & friend
From left : Ms Esther Sham & Mr Steve Leung
From left : Mr Alan Chan, Mr Erastus Yu & Ms Noel Lau
新派法國私房菜 香港出生、美國長大的 Chef Esther 於美國加州大學修讀現代藝術，喜愛 烹飪的她更曾專程遠赴法國跟隨香港的二星及三星米芝蓮餐廳學藝，新開 From left : Ms Joey Tsang & Mr Nelson Chow
始的私房菜餐廳 Ta Pantry 結合傳統與現代藝術，採用上等食材煮出別出 心裁的新派法國菜。開幕當日更邀得城中名人如胡應湘及莫樹錦等到場祝
A New Breed of French Kitchen
賀，聯同場內眾多愛酒之人，聽著由著名音樂製作人 Phoebus Chan 的鋼
Hong Kong born and American raised chef Esther Sham studied
琴表演，在星光酒色中享受城市中難得的悠然寫意。
Contemporary Art while in California, and picked up cooking after travelling to France and having a transformative culinary moment. She went back to Hong Kong having worked in various 2-3 star Michelin restaurants in France, before opening the first Ta Pantry a few years ago, making modern French cuisine in an artistic manner. Now that it has reopened, the food and dedication to fine ingredients remains, and many celebrities that stopped by at the Grand Opening were fans of Ta Pantry, offering their congratulations and love of wine over music producer Phoebus Chan’s piano music. It’s rare in this city to have a moment of leisure, but Hip Cellar and Ta Pantry provide the perfect
Hip Cellar Address 地址： 香港北角屈臣道2-8號海景大廈C座5樓 5/F Block C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK. Tel 電話： 2979 0108 / 8100 7866 E-mail 電郵： info @hipcellar.com Website 網頁： http://www.hipcellar.com
Ta Pantry Tel 電話： E-mail 電郵： Website 網頁：
2521 8121 tapantry@gmail.com http://ta-pantry.com
ingredients for a night out of relaxation.
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Castilla – La Mancha Asia Grand Tasting 2013 卡斯蒂利亞 - 拉曼恰 亞洲區試酒會2013
Castilla-La Mancha is a diverse land in more ways than one.
association with winemaking, and with today’s advancements in winemaking
Besides being home to a variety of different cultures and traditions,
and viticulture, the wines have never been as critically acclaimed as they are
it also has a great complexity in the soil. Limestone and clay
now. Wines from La Mancha have won medals around the world in prestigious
feature predominately in the terroir, and coupled with the abundant sunshine and cool nights, many types of grapes can thrive in
competitions, so seek them out and be amazed!
this environment. International grapes such as Merlot, Cabernet
卡斯蒂利亞拉曼恰是一片多樣性豐富的土地。除了是多元文化與傳統的集
Sauvignon, and Syrah are usually blended here with local varieties
中地外，這裡更擁有複雜的土壤，石灰及黏土土質、加上烈日與涼快的夜
like Tempranillo and Grenache, yielding muscular yet fragrant wines
晚，構成了這裡的獨特風土，令許多品種的葡萄都能夠很好地生長在這
of great texture, like the Super Tuscans of Italy.
裡。一些國際葡萄品種如 Merlot 、 Cabernet Sauvignon 、以及 Ayrah 都 會加入本地品種如 Tempranillo 和 Grenache 等混釀，造出酒體豐厚而香氣
To showcase the diversity and quality of La Mancha, a trade-only tasting was organized last month on April 23rd in Langham Place Hotel by the Foreign Trade Institute of Castilla-La Mancha, where Hong Kong’s bustling wine trade gathered to try over 150 wines from 20 wineries not presently represented in the city.
滿溢、質感豐富的酒，就好像意大利托斯卡尼的 Super Tuscan 一樣。 為了展示拉曼恰酒款的多樣性和品質， 4 月 23 日於旺角朗豪酒店便舉行了 一場由西班牙拉曼大區政府對外經貿協會主辦的試酒會，讓香港葡萄酒業 界各專業人士聚首，品試來自 20 間酒莊、超過 150 款未在香港出售的酒莊
Along with the informative masterclass that took place in the morning, another
酒款。加上早上舉行的大師班，業界便能夠更深入地認識來自 La Mancha
highlight was the discovery of so many fantastic white wines from La Mancha—
的白酒款，更加了解其獨特性。
though uncommon, they are sure to impress. 拉曼恰是西班牙其中一個最大的產酒區，數據更顯示這裡擁有全國達 60%
La Mancha is one of the largest wine producing regions in Spain, with some figures estimating that the region has around 60% of the country’s vineyards.
的葡萄園面積。由粉紅酒至氣泡酒、甚至甜酒都有生產，當然不少得的更 是精采絕倫的白酒與紅酒。這是一個歷史久遠的地區，有著悠久的釀酒傳 統，加上今日的釀酒及種植科技與知識，這裡所生產的酒更有著從未有過
Everything from rosé to sparkling wine, to even sweet wine is produced here, as
的質量與肯定。來自拉曼恰的葡萄酒至今已經贏得多個世界性獎項，受盡
well as of course fantastic white and red wines. It is a historical region with a long
各界尊崇，絕對值得一試！
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Turkish Wine Renaissance 遠古的葡萄酒王國
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Through a series of archaeological discoveries, historians have
從多年的考古學證明，現今的土耳奇是人類歷史上最早出現葡萄酒的地方。
proved that Turkey is one of the world’s oldest wine producing
現代的葡萄酒產業從1920年代開始現代化，不少酒莊開始進行有規模的種植
countries, although commercial wineries and international
及生產不同類型的葡萄酒，出口到不同國家，在香港，我們也可以找到這些
export only began in 1920. And though it has been a long time
來自葡萄古國的酒款。
coming, Hong Kong finally has some Turkish wines to try out. 較早前， Evercohol 便舉辦了一次土耳奇酒品酒活動，展示了十多款的葡萄
Earlier, local importer Evercohol organized a tasting event featuring
酒，包括氣泡酒、白葡萄酒酒、紅葡萄酒等，最大的特色是大部份的酒款都
different wines from Turkey including sparkling, white and red
是以土耳奇原生葡萄，如Bogazkere、Narince、Okuzgozu等釀造，展現出
wines. Turkey produces many wines using European varietals like
本土風格，當然土耳奇也有種植及釀造我們常見的歐洲品種如 Cabernet 及
Chardonnay or Cabernet, but the tasting focused on indigenous
Chardonnay 等等。其中一家歷史可追溯至 1929 年的 Kavaklidere 酒莊帶來
varieties like Bogazkere, Narince, and Okuzgozu. One of the
幾款有趣的原生葡萄品種酒款。他們在土耳奇的主要產區如Izmir、Nevsehir
featured wineries was Kavaklidere, which was established in 1929
都葡萄園，是國內最大的酒莊之一。當中讓人印象深刻的酒款是 Pendore
and currently owns a vast amount of vineyards in the major
Bogazkere 2009，以原生品種Bogazkere釀造，入口有良好的果香、結構及
Turkish wine regions of Izmir and Nevsehir. I was impressed by the
複雜度，收結悠長，另一款白葡萄酒Prestige系列的Narince
Pendore Bogazkere 2009, which had a good aroma, structure, and
的香氣及清新的果香，加上少許木桶陳年，很有歐洲舊世界酒的風格。最重
complexity, and the Prestige Narince 2011, an aromatic white with
要，大部份酒款售價只是＄100至＄200多，很值得一試。
2011也有漂亮
fresh fruit, and a little touch of oak which shows some old world style. The prices are also very attractive, starting from around $100 to $200, so these wines are well worth a try.
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Enquiry: Evercohol Ltd. // Tel: 39755696
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Kronenbourg 1664 Street Performers Kronenbourg 1664法式街頭表演
White faced mimes, bronze painted performance artists, and old accordion buskers—Is it true that all of these people can only be found on the streets of Europe? Perhaps in the past yes, but throughout May in Hong Kong, Kronenbourg 1664 has organized a series of street performers in Central, Causeway Bay, and Tsim Sha Tsui, to showcase the talents and skills required for all three of these unique arts. There will be a French mime section, a painted statue section, and even an accordionist. Theatrical and fun, it brings the less heralded side of French culture to a stage full of surprises. 白色臉蛋的默劇師、真人塗上銅色扮演的銅像、拉著法國手風琴的街頭藝人… 以為這些表演只能在歐洲的街頭上才可以碰見？那便大錯等錯了！法國五月期 間Kronenbourg 1664於中環、銅鑼灣和尖沙咀設立了一個高三米的立體流動 舞台，讓法式默劇師、真人銅像和手風琴家站在啤酒杯內表演！在充滿驚喜的 舞台下品味法式藝術的情懷與樂趣。 More Information: IPhone App – “Immerse in Kronenbourg 1664”
City’super - Tour de France「法國之旅」 The whole city’s French food festival has successfully concluded so let us recall city’super’s “Tour de France” wine and dine event. Burgundy was the topic for Le French GourMay, so we had wines from Chablis and GevreyChambertin to pair with Burgundian foods like snails, epoisses cheese, and Comtesse du Barry foie gras and orange duck. Bordeaux wines and Hermitage were also available, as we don’t always need Burgundian wine for Burgundy food. Still, with great food and great wine, the pairing was sure to be fantastic! 全城投入的法國五月美食節已經圓滿結束！讓我們回顧一下 由city’super舉辦的「法國之旅」美酒佳餚活動。以法國五月 美食節的主題產區勃艮第為題，city’super的「法國之旅2013 」分別以Chablis、Gevrey-Chambertin、Hermitage及波爾 多的的美酒配搭各款來自勃艮第的美食，有特大奘的勃艮第 蝸牛、Epoisses勃艮第艾波瓦斯芝士和Comtess du Barry法 式橙味鴨肉等。讓鍾愛法式飲食生活的人不用動腦筋也能享 受到最優質的美食配搭。
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Glenlivet Guardian Club First Anniversary Dinner Glenlivet Guardian Club週年晚宴
The prestigious Camus brand insisted on arranging a historic location for
Glenlivet Guardian Club是知名蘇格蘭威士忌品牌The Glenlivet專為單一麥芽
hosting the event. Guests were escorted from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
威士忌愛好者而設、讓來自世界名地的會員提供一個彼此交流威士忌心得的
in Central to the destination, stopping at the 8 Pollock Path on the Peak
平台，Glenlivet Guardian Club不設會費，自2006年成立以來已經擁有全球
to the magnificent Consulat Général de France Residence of Hong Kong.
98個國家超過13萬人登記入會。
While 2 violinists performed a stunning repertoire, guests enjoyed Camus cognac cocktails and explored 5 different eaux de vie.
設有Guardian、Guardian Ambassador及Guardian Fellow三個會員級別制 度的Glenlivet Guardian Club今年於香港成立一週年，身在香港地區的會員
Uwe Opocensky, the Executive Chef of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
亦已經超過500名。大會日前特別於城中著名的地中海餐廳 AMMO舉行了一
prepared five dishes before Sarah Liong, Brand Ambassador, presented the
場極致尊尚晚宴，在悠揚的傳統風笛演奏及醉人酒香中，同時為三位新委任
Camus Cuvée 5.150 from a refined black wooden box. Glowing in amber,
的Guardian Ambassador以蘇格蘭傳統儀式歡迎，包括Linen House Hong
the Baccarat glass bottle shimmered and shone, and guests could finally
Kong行政董事兼大埔扶輪社後任會長區嘉文先生、Hullet House總經理區耀
taste the prestigious cognac, along with its 150 years of heritage.
勳先生及灣仔私房菜Le Mieux Bistro星級名廚張錦祥先生。
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Basquing in the Limelight Eguren Ugarte
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The
CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. In this issue we look at The Langham Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui and their excellent Cantonese restaurant T’ang Court. If you haven’t been to either, read on and make your reservations! Afterward, look at the new galleries on show at HAJI, with one exhibition focusing on what we eat.
作為國際級的時尚之都，瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The Cru Lifestyle這裡，我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、 時尚 玩物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。今期我們去到尖沙咀的朗廷酒店及其星級中 菜餐廳「唐閣」，絕對值得嘗試。之後我們在城中藝術家聚腳地HAJI，看看最新 的展覽預告。
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The Langham, Hong Kong 香港朗廷酒店
Chinese text: Jonathan Li // Translation: Eddie Chui
z One of my “Hong Kong addresses” is The Langham, Hong Kong. The name Langham is actually one of the most illustrious names of the hotel trade. 我的香港地址之一，是尖沙咀的朗廷酒店。朗延之名其實是酒店業內的一個非常顯赫的招牌。
The Langham brand name derives actually from Langham London
說起來，The Langham London 是倫敦最著名的歷史性大酒店之一，像那
of 1685 vintage, which the Hong Kong based group acquired and
時香港的半島，所以說掛著這招牌的這間香港酒店，其實是名店。我特別
now adapts it to all of its first tier hotels, with many recent new
喜歡朗廷香港營造的歐洲氣氛：無疑 1685 開業的倫敦朗廷是所有朗廷酒店
openings. Langham London, whose Palm Court high tea, now
的參考版本。Palm Court 英式High Tea 聽說是倫敦朗廷創始的，香港的朗 廷也正統地延續了這個今天己遍及全球的傳統。 朗廷酒店的客房，和別的酒店一樣，有層次分別。客房不大但裝潢漂亮豪 華，有特別舒適的大床，巨型電視機， DVD 及 iPod 連接器，大保管箱， 甚至有熨衣設備。牆上的掛畫是老香港的繪畫或照片。窗簾的開關電動控 制，其實是高科技客房。酒店在尖沙咀的中心，樓下就是免稅店 DFS 的旗 艦，擲石之遙就是名牌店林立的廣東道，特宜高端購物的一族。 浴室設備一流，有大浴缸和分隔的淋浴間。浴缸上巧妙地開了一扇望睡房 的窗，用木百葉裝飾，很有創意。而浴室給的設備非常齊全，小瓶林林總
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總，包裝得特別漂亮。在這裡住會所房，房間不一定在特定的會所樓層， 使用會所設備只是一筆附加費的問題。 在朗廷的Club，除了免費的早餐，下午茶，全日飲品，黃昏小吃外，還有 貼身的個性化禮賓服務。它的「小吃」實在等同晚餐。酒店的頂樓是大泳 池，健身室設備好。酒店的水療 （Spa ）叫「川」很有名。 這裡的中餐廳唐閣是香港名店，做正宗粵菜，由名廚鄺強師父主持。我喜 歡這裡是因為烹飪的「實際」，不賣弄花招而好吃得很。酒店的西餐廳波 士頓餐廳是高級美式扒（排）房，咖啡廳的海南雞飯一流，還有大堂的英 式下午茶（High Tea ）。住這裡最宜名店購物之餘回酒店休息，在酒店下
universally imitated, has its rightful successor in Hong Kong as if to
午茶後再去買買買…然後在唐閣晚餐，這是「最優質的香港旅遊」了。
prove its London heritage. Langham Hong Kong has many types of rooms and the best is decorated to a very high standard. It is equipped with anything imaginable, large TV, DVD, iPod dockers, big in-room safe, but and ironing equipment. The bed is particularly comfortable, and bath room has every amenity, full of beautifully wrapped small bottles of toiletries as if to prove the sophisticated class of the hotel, adding to a really perfect sojourn. Club Level rooms are not confined to a few Club floors: it is a matter of a supplement that buys the use of the Club Lounge serving everything from breakfast to evening snacks (which is almost a full meal). Its concierge service is really personal. I also enjoy the use of the impressive roof-top swimming pool. It’s Spa and gyms are great too. The Chinese restaurant, T’ang Court, is a Michelin-starred Hong Kong gourmet landmark, with Chef Kwong Keung, one of Hong Kong’s real master chefs, overseeing traditional Cantonese food and executing it to the highest standard of perfection. It is the favourite restaurant to local gourmets in the know. It also has the Bostonian, a top class American grillroom, and the coffee shop serves one of the best Hainanese Chicken Rice in town. With sophisticated shopping right down in the streets and great food in-house, it simply transpires a stay at Langham Hong Kong into a great tourist experience to memory.
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A
rt and Culture at HAJI
文化與藝術在HAJI Text: Mini 夏至 Images: michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team Hair ( Mini ): Pius Yiu, Jim Ho, Sonn Lam @ Orient4.com.hk
From streets to galleries, stencils to silk screens, hand illustrations to digital prints, sculptures to handmade figures, public art to private collection, culture and art are always living with us. But have you ever taken a second look at it? 由街頭到畫廊，模版到絲印，手繪到數碼，雕塑到手作，公共藝術到私人收藏，文化和藝術從來 都貼在我們的左右，你有沒有留意過？
《 SCRAPBOOK STORIES》 Three 雕塑展
“A set of sculptures made from discarded materials and found
英國藝術家Three，在雕塑展自述的介紹中提到，每一件藝術品都可能有
objects with an aged patina. Metal pieces and driftwood carefully
很多背後的故事。把被棄置的零碎物料重租再重生，是一項藝術行為。國
arranged, the elements that make up these artworks are mostly
際著名英國雕塑家Three在街頭找來碎片整合，創作成藝術品。 Three，於
unaltered from their original shape. Off-cuts from metalwork jobs
1995年開始創作街頭藝術工作，在英國，法國及香港的大街小巷，都有
were collected and became rusty awaiting transformation. These
Three的雕塑痕跡 。這次在HAJI Gallery展出的作品，以金屬為主，利用棄
are abstract artworks suggesting landscapes and other natural
置的銅鏽和浮木等物料創作的藝術品，沒有改變物料的原狀，運用金屬的
forms with muted colours and an environmental message.
The
邊料，待成鐵鏽，把大自然融入藝術創作之中。以生鏽變色的抽象作品帶
processes of manufacture, marks and scratches still visible, the
出環保意念。每一件藝術品都保留著金屬原有的痕跡及質感，背後藏著不
textures, shadows and sounds created augment the stories and
同歷史故事，大大提高作品的個性。
become part of the work.” Artist Statement by Three.
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HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011
《 We Eat, What Exactly Are We Eating? 》 《我們吃，其實我們在吃什麼呢？》 Art Exhibition by Gukzik Lau 劉掬色藝術展
TCH (at the centre of the photo) is always looking for his own
TCH （圖中）從來都尋找一個屬於自己生活的地方。透過逃離現實為題
personal space to live. He is also finding a space to escape the
的相和畫展，讓藝術熱愛者可以在一個展覽中經歷由「紅」轉「藍」的精
reality. This photography and painting exhibition is about the craving
神狀態。「紅」代表他曾在生活中吸收過量錯誤資訊而不自覺追求物慾，
for freedom. The show is a documentary of his spiritual life changing
「藍」是食素後找到心靈的滿足。為紀念瑞士化學家 Albert Hofmann 著
from the state of “Red” into “Blue”. In the remembrance of Albert
名的《 Bicycle Day 》，展覽於 4 月 19 日舉行， TCH 更邀請來自日本的友
Hofmaan’s famous “Bicycle Day”, the exhibition of “HEXIT” begins
人 Hibiki (圖左) 響 (京都民族樂) 來港設立 Asalato Workshop ，希望於
on 19th April. TCH invites his Japanese Guest Hibiki (at the right
展覽中透過視覺以外而感受到聽覺以內的共識。
hand side of the photo) to echo his art in music.
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Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場
JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯士甸道西1號
The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A
Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號
Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號
Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號
Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號
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Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號
Regal Kowloon Hotel 71 Mody Road, TST, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道71號 Conrad Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, HK 金鐘皇后大道88號太古廣場 Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 1 Castle Peak Road, Gold Coast, HK 香港青山道1號 Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong (CRC) 123 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 大坑銅鑼灣道123號 Kowloon Cricket Club 10 Cox’s Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 覺士道10號九龍木球會 Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kellett Island, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣奇力島 The American Club 48-49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, HK 中環交易廣場第二座48-49樓 The China Club 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Central, HK 中環德輔道中2A中國銀行大廈13樓-14樓 The Hong Kong Golf Club 19 Island Road, Deep Water Bay, HK 深水灣香島道19號
Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖
Occupying a prime position in Central’s iconic Pedder Building, burgundy etc follows the thematic model set by bordeaux etc and champagne etc and focuses mainly on premium wines from its namesake region. With nearly 400 labels in store and access to 1,300 references in stock, burgundy etc boasts Hong Kong’s largest retail selection of Burgundy wines. Such a wide selection ensures both Burgundyloving beginners and discerning drinkers can find a quality wine to their liking.The comprehensive product range includes affordable everyday wines from boutique producers, to limited-production and rare labels from top estates, such as Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Henri Jayer, Leroy and Faiveley.
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Café Siam is one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants and the only Michelin-recognized establishment in Hong Kong, Café Siam is a tranquil respite from the hustle & bustle of Lan Kwai Fong.
Address: 2/F – 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2851 4803 Website: www.cafesiam.com.hk
Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下
Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖
Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖
Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖
Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖
Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖
Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖
Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑
Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖
Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓
Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓
L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖
Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓
Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓
Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓
Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓
Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience.
Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk
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We’re all about relaxed, simple food. Italian trattorias, English pubs, and traditional French bistros are what inspire us. From cider steamed mussels to tender roast chicken, we’ve put our own spin on a few bistro favourites. Our philosophy celebrates rustic, comfort cooking, and we’ve created a diverse menu that highlights local ingredients as well as specialty imports. Unwind with a glass of red at our happy hour and try the tapas selection that changes daily. Lounge in our sun-drenched dining room with apple crumble and coffee. Or tuck into an 8oz. New Zealand Ribeye and shamelessly savor every bite. Whether you’re craving a big brunch or fancy a few nibbles, we make food that just feels good. Address : G/F, 87-89 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Tel : 2815 9000 Website : www.societi.com.hk
Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室
Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418
The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號
French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓
Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓
Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖
The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號
Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓
NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓
Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓
O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓
St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖
The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓
Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖
Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室
FoFo was born in February 2010 following the popularity and success of ‘el Willy’ restaurant in Shanghai. As a contemporary Spanish restaurant, FoFo offers both traditional and contemporary Spanish tapas and rice. It also proposes the world’s favorite Iberian ham, as well as other new and innovative. Let go for an extraordinary gastronomical journey to Spain!
Address : 20/F M88, 2-8 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong Tel : 2900 2009 Website : www.fofo.hk
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Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下 Collezione Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室
Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室 Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓 Maxscene Wineshop Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 54 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong
M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室 Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖
Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室
Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室
Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號
Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下
Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪
Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪
voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下
Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下
Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖
Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪
Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖
Zeitgeist [tsīt-ˌgīst, ˈzīt-], the general intellectual, moral, and cultural climate of an era. Loft [ˈlȯft], an upper room or floor. When combined, it became an intellectual and innovative wine boutique, specializing in the finest and rare California cult wines. Our philosophy is to share our passion with the most unique experiences to the people who love wine.
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Corporate Member Application Form
2012~2013
English
Hong Kong Wine Merchants’ Chamber of Commerce
English
3. Corporate Website
h t t p : \ \
2nd Anniversary Dinner
. Representative Person Mr./Ms ./Mrs.*
English Surname
Given Name
/
* Coctail Reception
Ext
Seminar
10 Business Registration
11. Major Business Model
Response to the Government
. Product and Service Scope
Luncheon Meeting BUD Seminar
Our company accept the regulation of the chamber and to be responsible to it. We agree the chamber to use the submitted information for the purpose of statistical analyst, member s journal ’ publishing, mar keting promotion and business matching.
Wine Tasting
Sign and Chop Here
Offer are made for the payment of the membership fee for the year 2012-2013: 1. Higher priority to ered at the HKWMCC annual dinner. 2. Free participation of HKWMCC luncheon or seminar events 3. Listing on the members directory included in our annual publication and website.
2013 2014 1)
Hong Kong World Wine Carnival
11
Please attach the payment with the form. Please write the check HK$2,000 for the SME members and HKD5,000 for the bigger scale enterprise member (employees more than 50) which made payable to “Hong Kong Wine Merchants' Chamber of Commerce, Limited”. Send to the secretary office, 23/F On Hong Commercial Building, 145 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong. Membership enquiry: membership@hkwmcc.org HK$2000 ( 50 ) HK$5000 145 23 membership@hkwmcc.org
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Cru magazine special subscription offer Dynasty Medium Dry White Wine Muscat is a grape variety that was already known to the Romans who called it “apianae” in reference to its honey smell in the vineyard that attracted bees. Its nose is
Georges Duboeuf Moulin a Vent Prestige 2005 Ruby-red color with aromas of blueberry,
seductive, suggesting a flowery first approach for those
blackcurrant, plum, coffee, and vanilla. The
who like to start aperitif on a sweeter note.
round mouth turns well, and aging in oak casks gives particular distinction to this wine.
The palate is harmonious and layered, starting with a
Distinguished and harmonious.
sweet honeyed touch leading to crispness highlighting the presence of citrus and tropical fruits such as ripe pineapple and some hints of lychee. The finish is dry for a light body, leaving a very pleasant impression in the mouth.
Acclaims: Wine Spectator 90 pts Decanter World Wine Awards – Regional Trophy Price : $450
Retail Price : $125
Vinturi Essential Wine Aerator Traditionally, decanters were used to expose wine to air. However, decanting is time-consuming, cumbersome, and inconvenient. Vinturi's patent pending design speeds up this process with ease and convenience. Perfect aeration in the time it takes to pour a glass. As wine breathes, it opens up and releases its intended aromas and flavours. The more you appreciate wine, the more you'll appreciate the difference. (Limited to 24 subscribers only)
Become our Grand Cru Member ·Subscribe 12 issues for only HKD456 (original price HKD576), save more than 20% ·Immediately receive one special subscription gift ·Enjoy GRAND CRU membership benefits Member Name
Company Name
Business Address
Home Address
Contact No.
Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com
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professional
wine cellars in hong kong
• Wholly owned by a listed company • Hong Kong RFID Award 2010 Logistics Management System • The most advanced climate control systems, anti-vibration System • Chubb Security System • Comprehensive Insurance Policy • Exclusive VIP Locker for private collcetion • Secondary wine sales on behalf of menber • Flexible Storage Plan • Nearby Shatin Racing Course
For Enquiry, please call 歡迎致電
082_Collezione.indd 1
2947 8333
•上市公司全資擁有公司 •採用榮獲2010年RFID獎物流管理系統 •最專業溫度濕度系統及防震設施 •集寶保安監測系統 •全面保險保障 •為會員提供私人珍藏保險箱 •為會員提供葡萄酒寄賣服 •靈活的儲存計劃 •鄰近沙田馬場
or visit our website 或瀏覽
www.collezione.com.hk 08/10/2012 8:54 PM