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Passion for Wine and Life

2013 SEP

2013sep

HK$38

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Cover Story

panel Tasting

Fall for Coldsteam Hills

Time Traveling with Sicily

情繫Coldsteam Hills

西西里的時光隊道

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TABLE OF CONTENTS #033 September 2013

Wine

Life

Cru Speech 012 It’s a kind of ‘tasting’ magic? 如夢幻般的「品鑑」

生活

054 McGuigan Wines – Australia’s Darling McGuigan Wines – 澳洲之星

014 Cru Corner

Cru Special 020 The Silver Knight 優雅的白銀騎士

022 Cru Cover Story

054 072

Cru Leader 056 The Branaire Style 周伯「風」

072 StarWorld Hotel 星際酒店

022 Fall for Coldsteam Hills 情繫Coldsteam Hills

Cru Panel Tasting 026 Time Traveling with Sicily 西西里的時光隧道

Youth Palate

056

060 Wines for the Future 葡萄酒新世代

Cru Investment 067 Melodie de Fombrauge

026

Cru World of Wines

052 The Heights of Almaviva 智利葡萄酒極致

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Art Life 074 Art and Culture at HAJI 文化藝術在夏至

096

Hotel Life 070

Grand Hyatt Singapore: Grand Hotel with Boutique Service 新加坡君悅酒店: 大酒店的溫馨服務

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Letters from the Editors My First Magic Bottle 我的第一瓶夢幻葡萄酒 When I started drinking wine years ago, it was solely for fun and leisure and I never think of any career or business about wine. When we are reaching drinking age at that time, beers and ciders are the first choices, even the bitter Corona is trendy. Until recent years, we have all kinds of beers available in Hong Kong. In a recent beer judging, I even tasted 300 beers from different countries! At my teenage, wine is another beverage to share but not that popular. Young people at that time thought wine is old-fashioned and not tasty at all. We did not have much wine school like we have nowadays. But as many wine lovers did, a bottle brought me to the wine world that I can never turn back. In our cover story, James Halliday shares it’s a La Tâche that turned him to wine. It’s not necessary to be a luxurious bottle like that, but my magic bottle is simply a 1976 Ducru-Beaucaillou. Even today I have the tendency to choose this Château whenever possible. At that time, wine is much less popular than today. We have much choices from more wine shops and merchants than ever. Like what we observe during the Bordeaux Left Bank Cup competition, young people are more interested in wine today. We decide to create the Youth Palate editorial to recommend affordable wine for daily drinking and some good places for getting your bottles, stay tuned!

回想當初開始學飲葡萄酒,無非是作為一種新的嗜好,也不是為什麼考取功名,升官發財之用。既然到了喝酒的年齡,那時最常見的不是啤酒lager,便是甜甜 的cider,而且相對便宜,就算喝著苦澀的Corona,已經是高尚不已。直到近年,才越來越多不同種類的啤酒,在剛過去的一次啤酒品評,便已嚐盡了300款啤 酒,實在壯觀。回到那些年,除了啤酒,其他適合一班人分享的,便要數到葡萄酒了。記憶中,當時喝葡萄酒的人不多,尤其是年輕人,總會認為葡萄酒是難 喝、「扮哂野」的酒釀,而且也沒有多少學習葡萄酒的課程,像現在那麼普及。但正如大部分 酒癡一樣,總是遇到一瓶特別的葡萄酒後便不能回頭,那一瓶並不一定是什麼貴 重的葡萄酒,或像今期封面人物James Halliday年青時喝過的La Tâche那樣的 驚世佳釀。十多年前的一瓶1976年的Ducru-Beaucaillou便是令我「一入酒門 深似海」的那一杯。而我也被這酒莊徹底俘虜掉,更開始了我的葡萄酒之旅, 直到今天。

那些年葡萄酒不算普及,喜好的年輕人也不多,看到這幾年葡萄酒的興起, 無論飲的人還是酒商都今非昔比。尤其年輕一輩,從這幾年參加Left

Bank

Bordeaux Cup的學生,便知道葡萄酒對不少年輕人也有一定的吸引力,我 們的新欄目Youth Palate應運而生,專門介紹適合日常飲用的葡萄酒及買酒 好去處,分享更多關於葡萄酒的文化及心得。

Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com

Editorial Director : Eddie Chui

Publisher : Cru Media Limited

Features Editor : Joe Lo

Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham

Assistant Editor : Ian Wong

Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Tasting Editor : Francois Luck

Tel : (852) 3568 9100

Creative Director : Jenkin Ma

Fax : (852) 3568 9101

Designer : Louise Pak

E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com

Photographer : Alvin Luk

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All rights reserved 版權所有,翻印必究

Circulation Manager : Simon Ha

ISSN 2221016-4

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾.貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景,亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師,更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。

Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇,愛好美酒美食,大 中華酒評人協會會員,英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》,電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。

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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡.德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編,並於 1996 年與米歇爾.貝塔納 (Michel Bettane)合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南,內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師, 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地,從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師,都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述,極具天賦能力。

Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 , 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣, Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素,以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。

Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.

Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong.  Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.

劉涵濤在香港出生,於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師,2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起,曾於澳洲的南澳,維多利亞 省,法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作,現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師,亦同時用自然,低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒,「傳」。

Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗,考獲 WSET

Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.

高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師,亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course,亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。

Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生,曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作, 正職市場推廣,副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人,只有懶惰的,所以最愛試不同的美容產 品,讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。

單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名,用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite,企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上,生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食,及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業,可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。

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T a s t i n g

Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s  Singtao  Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師,擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》,並在 多家報章雜誌包括:《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄,亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道-美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。

Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was  awarded  the  Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒,2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格,並成為香港首批 CSW,並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體,並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書(萬里機構 出版)。

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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說,每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情,因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程,充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後,現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 , 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。

Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判,並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一,持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格,對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。

Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny  from  Burgundy  and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎,亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣,他先後任職於不 同酒商,包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ,並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教,曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒, 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。

P a n e l

Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師,亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程, 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ,鳳凰衛視,瑪麗嘉 兒,味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一,Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。

Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist  of  Spirits  from  the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會( WSET )的文憑資 格,亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士,並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗,亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。

Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA.  She has attained Sommelier  certification  from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia. 

Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.

Jordan Choy Certificated  Bordeaux  Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday  Bordeaux  2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.

Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師,同為一

Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College

為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」,成為中國/香港的 代表,遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。

的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業,翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作,由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。

法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師(L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux),香港葡萄酒 學會導師,曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯,撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審,包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。

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T a s t i n g

Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣, 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展,並接受不同 崗位的訓練,親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化,對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛,把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師,既能發揮其 個人所長,亦可寓工作於娛樂。

P a n e l

Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 , J o rd i 現 為 A S C   F i n e   W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier,亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項,包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍,亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。

Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong  Sommelier  Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender  Association.  He  is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t   W i n e   L i s t   Aw a rd s 2008  and  2009,  also  the California  Grapes  International Inc.,  and  the  Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員,亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes  International  Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一,自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍,更於 2006

Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼

Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”

助理餐飲經理,以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師, 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師,對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍,並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮,是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師,前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。

香港最年輕侍酒師之一,Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道:「作為一名侍酒 師,我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」

Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.

Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.

年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。

Benny Chung B e n n y   C h u n g   i s   t h e   P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.

Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in H One as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.

Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.

Gon曾留學於瑞士,修讀酒店管理課 Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部 項目經理,熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格,同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。

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程,回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作,現為餐廳H One的品酒師, 憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒佳餚的 搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約七年前 於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡萄酒, 也在學習上、工作上不斷加深認識 及接觸葡萄酒,越來越被這種神之水 滴所吸引。

Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久,當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間,Kevin除了在工作中不斷 汲取經驗外,更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程,成為一位出色的品酒師,對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師,對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉,當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。

天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣,母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多,曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作,亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作,自此愛上亞 洲,現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。

Katrina於2006年加入飲食業,現正 於香港日航酒店工作,主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她,已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽,不但成功進入香港區五 強,最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍,被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。

3/9/13 6:51 PM


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25/1/13 1:56 PM


T a s t i n g

Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師,現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師,曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍,被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。

P a n e l

Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request. Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間,由 公關到宴會搞手,到作家與記者、導 師,她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。

Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.

Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.

從事飲食業十多年,Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 , 曾 為 G r a n d   C r u ( C o v a   G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。

來自意大利 Friuli ,長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理,現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。

Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the Sommelier of Shangri-la Hotel Kowloon.

Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.

Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.

資深新聞工作者,葡萄酒愛好者, 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。

剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。

Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Place Hotel. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.

Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.

Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.

Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年,曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作,現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。

Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作,包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille,Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines,現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。

Vincent是香港朗豪酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年,Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣 充滿熱情。

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Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。他剛

曾於澳洲留學,Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The  Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師,現 為九龍香格里拉大酒店之品酒師。

Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET. Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證 品酒師;葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家,亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。

Andy She Andy is now the Sommelier of Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel. He had also worked at Cuisine Cuisine and The French Window, Langham Hotel as Sommelier. In 2013, He was qualified Senior Sommelier level and being the committee of HKSA. Andy是香港萬麗海景酒店的品酒師, 曾任職國金軒、The French Window及 尖沙咀朗廷酒店的品酒師。2013年考 獲香港專業品酒師協會認可的資深品 酒師會員資格及擔任協會委員.

Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Il Miliones. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年,曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師,現為 意大利餐廳Il Milione的品酒師。

Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar. Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師,從事多年飲食界相關行 業,經驗豐富,現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒,希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。

Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage. 擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書,Don曾 於Domani,香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作,現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。

4/9/13 6:36 PM


T a s t i n g

P a n e l

Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fook Lam Moon. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred hotels including InterContinental Hong Kong, Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年,曾於不同的五星級酒店工作,包 括:香港洲際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒專業資 格,也是香港專業品酒師協會會員。

Danny Ng Danny is a recognized member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. He is now the Assistant Chief Sommelier/ Assistant Bar Manager of American Club. He had worked at St. Betty as Sommelier. Also, he had worked in “Church St. Enotica” Italian one Hat Restaurant in Melbourne Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He is studying the WSET Diploma Level 4. 作 為 香 港 品 酒 師 協 會 認 可 會 員 , Danny持 有 香 港 葡 萄 酒 教 育 中 心 第 三 級 , 現 於 美 國 會 任 職 助 理 品 酒 師 , 亦 曾 於 Betty’s  Kitchen 任 職 品 酒 師 。 曾 於 澳 洲 墨 爾 本 「 Church St. Enotica」意大利餐廳工作一年,亦是他認識葡萄酒和鍾情於澳洲葡萄酒的 地方。Danny現正修讀WSET文憑第四級。

Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Langham Place Mongkok, China Club and Hip Cellar. As a senior member of the HKSA, she also has an certificated Specialist of Wine, Joey is now the Sommelier of No.1 Waitanyuen cellar in Shanghai. Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐飲管理學士學位課 程,畢業後於美國 Renaissance Hotel實習,曾在香港君悅酒店、旺角朗豪酒店、中國會及 Hip Cellar工作,考獲CSW證書的Joey亦為香港專業品酒師協會高級品酒師之一。現於上海 外灘源壹號酒窖任職侍酒師。

Vincent Chue Vincent Chue received fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄酒訓練,並取得WSET的進階證書,同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理,對西班 牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。

Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments, Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高級品酒師,曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集 團品酒師、香港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines和Houghton Wines酒窖員工,著有 葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書籍《Wine Me》。

私人酒窖服務 存酒公倉服務 寄賣葡萄酒服務 葡萄酒代收服務 客戶專用車位

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www.THECAVE.com.hk Tel.: 2687 1387 Email: thomasshum@THECAVE.com.hk Unit 8, 15/F., Wah Wai Centre, 38-40 Au Pui Wan Street, Fotan, Shatin, N.T., Hong Kong

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3/9/13 6:52 PM


012

Cru Speech

It’s a kind of ‘tasting’ magic? 如夢幻般的「品鑑」

English Text : Ian Symonds // Translation : Eddie Chui

OK, so I am listening to Queen as I type this but how appropriate that this

當我正在想為這專欄起題時,我正在一邊聽著 Queen 的名曲《 A  Kind  of

song started as I was thinking about the title for this wine offering.

Magic》,一邊寫作,而正好這首歌為我帶來不錯的靈感呢!

Hong Kong has undergone a change that none of us need reminding

香港其中一樣我們酒迷或業界都關心的事必定是當年減稅後的改變,但到

about since the tax drop, but how deep is that change? Is the change

底所帶來的轉變有多深呢?而這些改變是否如歌題「A kind of magic」

worthy of the title ‘a kind of magic’? A very good friend of mine in wine

呢?我一位從事葡萄酒教育工作的朋友每年都從倫敦來港最少兩次。從我

education visits from London at least twice a year. It was obvious to me

們以前關於酒的話題可以知道以往在倫敦的試酒會都比香港多,但現在已

thinking about our conversations that the tastings on offer in London used

是非常不同了,不論是數量上還是在質量與深入度方面,香港已遠遠超越

to leave Hong Kong in the starting blocks. Now this is no longer true, not

了。不信嗎?

only is there quantity here but also quality and depth. Let me explain. 我知道《釀.生活》的編輯們都未必能應邀出席所有的試酒會,可以想像在

The staff at Cru cannot attend every invitation they receive – an indication

數量上的多寡。如果你有在winebuzz.com爬文或訂閱《釀.生活》的話,

of quantity from a single source of evidence. I am certain if you browse

可以知道差不多每天或每晚都有不同的試酒會。大大小小由酒商舉辦的品酒

WineBuzz.com and read the Cru reports it will become clear that tastings

活動、晚宴或私人聚會不勝其數。質素方面經過這幾年的努力很多都辦得很

in some form are available every day / evening. They may be public tastings

有水準。對我來說,這些活動的質與量已經很不錯了,我自己想要的是更深

run by wine merchants, dinners with tastings or private events, but they

入的內容,最近也在部份的活動上體驗到。

are out there in numbers. Quality took time the last three years have been great. Depth however has been more recent in my humble opinion.

以下便是其中一些我認為有意思的活動:

Since I last wrote, about Japanese wine that is itself a sign of depth, I have

劉伶會舉辦的Domaine Dublere勃艮第品酒會,跟釀酒師Blair Pethel一同品

attended (at least) the following:

嚐優雅、傳統的勃艮第酒釀。

Domaine Dublere of Bourgogne with the winemaker Blair Pethel thanks to

Northeast Wines & Spirits Ltd.代理的Yering Station葡萄酒,由首席釀

Bacchus Club Ltd. A range of elegant, very traditionally made Bourgogne.

酒師 Willy Lunn 帶領品嚐,由最高級的「 Village 」系列到入門級的「 Little

Yering」,很精彩的澳洲Yarra Valley酒款。 Yering Station wines from the Yarra Valley with Chief Winemaker Willy Lunn, courtesy of Northeast Wines & Spirits Ltd. Wines from the top

Kedington  W ines舉辦,由 Dean  Hewitson帶領的 Old  Garden

‘village’ range to ‘Little Yering’, all stunningly well made.

Vineyard Mourvedre品試,他在場講解照顧160年老樹葡萄藤的挑戰。我們

Dean Hewitson’s Old Garden Vineyard Mourvedre with him talking us

Mourvedre充滿動物,豐腴的美味。

品嚐了由 1998 至 2011 不同年份,及 2012 年由酒桶抽取的樣品酒。經典的

through the complexities of managing vines that are 160 years old – Kedington Wines. We tasted from 1998 to 2011 & 2012 barrel samples,

在Wine Society活動上品嚐了1990至2006的Brunello。

classic Mourvedre with black fruits to savoury, animal character. 由Konstantinos Lazarkis MW帶領的New Wines of Greece品試。不同的希

Brunello from 1990 to 2006 at a Wine Society event.

Cru Speech_Ian symonds.indd 1

臘原生品種葡萄帶來多樣化的酒款,各具特色,品質不錯。

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013

Quality took time the last three years have been great. Depth however has been more recent in my humble opinion. 大大小小由酒商舉辦的品酒活動、晚宴或私人聚會不勝 其數。質素方面經過這幾年的努力很多辦得很有水準。

The New Wines of Greece with Konstantinos Lazarkis MW; Greece has a

tasting scene that is mature, has depth and quality.

diverse range of grapes now being made into excellent wines with terrific flavour and quality.

This is a kind of magic, if thought of as a classic tasting note about a wine

New Zealand’s new wave Sauvignon Blanc and North Island reds with

then Hong Kong has matured into an elegant, well catered for city of wine

Debra Meiburg MW; reds from Hawkes Bay to challenge traditional red

experiences enjoyed by not just a hallowed few but by everyone.

blends. 由Debra Meiburg MW展示的新浪潮新西蘭Sauvignon Blanc及北島紅葡萄

Kumei River (NZ) with the famous Brajkovich family at the helm with

酒;以來自Hawkes Bay的紅酒挑戰傳統混調紅酒。

Northeast Wines & Spirits Ltd. 新西蘭Kumei River的著名釀酒家族Brajkovich 品試,由Northeast Wines &

The Great Wines of Bordeaux with James Suckling.

Spirits Ltd. 主持。

Celebrate Argentina with Wines of Argentina; featuring Malbec in all its

James Suckling舉行的波爾多品酒會。

glory, a fruity strong wine with huge food friendliness. 以Malbec祝賀Wines of Argentina,果香主導,強勁而以佐餐為主的酒釀。

Moët & Chandon base wine blending with Chef de Cave Benoit Gouez, incredibly difficult to blend but wonderful to drink.

由首席釀酒師Benoit Gouez帶領的Moët & Chandon 基酒品試及調配工作

Malartic Lagravière with Jean-Jacques Bonnie, a lesson on the Graves

坊,難以擔任的工作,但完成的酒很美味。

never to be forgotten. 跟Malartic Lagravière的Jean-Jacques Bonnie聚餐,難忘的Graves經歷。

Gonzalez Byass sherry with Amorosso Fine Wines – a staggering line up of

Amorosso Fine Wines舉辦的雪利酒品試。跟Gonzalez Byass 一同品嚐全線

fifteen styles of sherry that made my friend in London turn green with envy!

十五款酒釀,讓我的英國朋友極之妒忌。

Bourgogne dinners in an embarrassing array with wonderful Premier

另一次勃艮第盛宴,全場的一級田及特級田酒釀不斷,也讓我再次對在香港

Cru and Grand Cru wines – both white and red – that have made me

的食物配酒體驗有新的領悟。

completely re-think my food and wine pairing here in Hong Kong. 這一大堆的活動是否讓大家羨慕又妒忌呢?其實當中我遇上不少過去、現

So, why am I telling you this as if in an attempt to make every reader

在,或見面幾次的朋友,或是將來有機會成為我學生的嘉賓。不只來自葡萄

envious? Well not so, as at every one of these events there were plenty of

酒業界的人士,還有銀行金融、保險、醫生,也有正在學習葡萄酒的學生。

my past, present and, I heard twice, future students; as well as many other

大家都在學習、品試,跟釀酒師及酒評人觀摩切磋。我的倫敦朋友都認同這

guests. Not all of them in the wine trade in its widest sense but also from

些都是非常成熟,有質素,有深度的品酒活動。

banking, insurance, medical disciplines and then current students of wine at the highest levels. All there to learn, to taste, to meet winemakers and

真是夢幻般的景象,要以傳統的品酒筆記來形容的話,香港的酒壇是個成熟、優

critics and to luxuriate in what my London friend tells me very clearly is a

雅、配套很好的地方,也不只一小撮人,而是大部分人都能享受葡萄酒的樂趣。

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A funny and warm online wineshop 充滿歡樂的網上酒窖

R

ecently more and more online wine shops are emerging in Hong Kong. People are more used to online shopping now like TaoBao, which saves the cost for renting a shop in the city. Of course it is more than just a website to be successful, especially with wine, which requires extra care when handling. A good example is set by WineShopAsia.com, an new online store developed by Linksconcept Ltd. We   t a l k e d   t o   C h r i s ,   t h e online  store  manager  and Patricio, managing director of Linksconcept about their idea of online store. They have a different approach to the conventional idea of self-servicing platform of online store. They would like Wi n e S h o p A s i a . c o m   t o   h a v e

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more humanity and fun! They spend over a year to develop the website and idea, making it more friendly and let people “browse” the wines they are looking for, instead of “searching” the right wine in a huge wine list. Besides, the fun part comes on the newsletter they are delivering, not just a promotion leaflet with offers only. They add a funny wine column on that so people would like to read it instead of trashing the newsletter. Their marketing team is also sending out souvenirs to customers on special occasion like birthdays, as something warm in this cold digital world. Delivery is always excellent with their own logistics team. Chris also reveals that they will include more items besides their own brands to give more choices to customers and for fine

wines, they will send out listing of offers regularly at the best price. For more, browse: www. wineshopasia.com 近年開始流行網上訂購葡萄 酒,畢竟香港的店舖租金實 在太高了,加上網上購物也 越來越安全方便,例如大家 喜歡在淘寶網購物。只需一個 網站,便可開門做生意嗎? 當然不是那麼簡單,尤其葡萄 酒是比較貴重而又需要小心 處理的貨品,一間可靠的網店 是少不得的。最近由本地酒商 Linksconept開設的網上商店 WineShopAsia.com便是一個 好例子。 跟 網 店 總 監 C h r i s 及 Linksconcept的掌舵人 Patricio談及新的網店,他們 的理念是與別不同,傳統上網 店是為了減少人手處理訂單,

全靠客人在網站上自助購物, 完成訂單。而WineShopAsia. com卻多了不少人性化的服 務。他們花了近一年的時間開 發網站,務求讓所有功能更方 便,可以根據客人的喜好展示 所需的葡萄酒,而不是從頭到 尾去遂枝挑選。除此以外,他 們更加上其他元素,例如以 趣味為主的客戶通訊,不再只 是推銷產品的宣傳攻勢。除 了一般的推廣外,也會為客人 在特別的日子如生日送上紀 念品作為點點心意,沒有一般 的網店般冷。在服務方面,由 於有自己的車隊,送運的時間 及質素絕對有保證。購買他們 代理的葡萄酒自然更有保證, 但Chris也表示,為了讓客人 有更多的選擇,他們會不斷 擴展貨品種類,Fine Wine方 面,他們也會透過listing的方 式讓客人訂購。網址:www. wineshopasia.com

3/9/13 6:54 PM


il Pollenza 2007

Porpora 2008

PiusIX Mastai 2008

Cosmino 2004

Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver(90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses

Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze (89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation

Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012

Wines In China Evaluation 2011

Duemilavini 4Grappoli

2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli

Angera 2011

Didi 2011

Duende 2010

Brianello 2010

Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012

Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012

Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli

Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk

000_IL POLLENZA.indd 1

Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop

2721 5211

G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST

www.kimberleywineshop.com

96 Boham/ The Wine Shop

2972 7888

G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK

www.96bonham.com.hk

ABC Wines Limited

2380 6883

No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST

www.abcwines.com.hk

2380 6670

G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN

1/3/13 4:14 PM


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Mooncakes for Mid-Autumn 各式月餅喜慶中秋

Besides the new flavour, others are creating new packaging. Like the mooncake grift set from Marco Polo Hong Kong, is crafted with Swarovski crystal on the grift box, creating the limited edition of “Swarovski Element Crystal Mooncake Grift Set”, with choices of mini custard flvaour or mini white lotus see puree flavour.

M

id-Autumn is coming! Many of the mooncakes are now available for the annual festival with different style, classic and innovative. The One Harbour Road Chinese restaurant is releasing mooncakes with luxury ingredients, including Milk Custard with Bird’s Nest; White Lotus seed puree with gold leaf; ginger-flavour egg yolk

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mooncakes and Assorted nuts with Chinese dates mooncakes. Besides, sommelier Nicolas also has recommendation on wine pairing like the milk custard with birdnest to be paired with M3 Chardonnay by Shaw & Smith; classic pairing of white lotus seed puree with Vouvray Sec from Domaine Huet at Loire valley.

中秋佳節將至,全城各食府餅 家都陸續推出名式或傳統、 或創新的月餅口味。位於香港 君悅酒店的港灣一號中菜廳今 年便推出了一系列新口味的 尊貴月餅禮盒,採用矜貴的食 材如燕窩及金箔等,創造出 四款不同口味的精緻月餅:包 括燕窩奶皇、金箔蓮蓉、薑 味蛋黃和南棗果仁,全部製 作均不使用任何防腐劑,注 重食品健康的你更可以安心食 用。品酒師Nicolas更推薦了 不同的酒釀去配襯:例如包括

燕窩奶皇配以Shaw  &  Smith 的M3 Chardonnay;而傳統 的蓮蓉月餅則以來自Loire Valley,Domaine  Huet釀造 的Vouvray Sec配襯。 除了多變的月餅口味外,有 些月餅廠家亦於包裝方面著 手,香港馬哥孛羅酒店便為了 今年中秋佳節首度與施華洛世 奇合作,打造「SWAROVSKI ELEMENT限量閃爍水晶月餅禮 盒」,採用小巧別緻的切割水 晶鑲嵌在銀色月餅禮盒外,盛 載著迷你蛋黃奶皇月及迷你蛋 黃純白蓮蓉月兩款口味。

Enquiry: One Harbour Road, Grand Hyatt HK 香港君悅酒店港灣一號

Tel: 2588 1234 Hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 香港馬哥孛羅酒店咖啡廳

Tel: 2113 3912 www.marcopolohotels.com

3/9/13 6:54 PM


sweet-edm-final.pdf

1

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6:40 PM

4th Nov 2013 6:30 – 10:00 p.m.

THE BACKYARD

Langham Place Mongkok 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok

R.S.V.P: Mr. Lexus Loo T: 2351-0318 E: info@cru-magazine.com C

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Max no. of pax is 500. The event is on first-come-firstserved basis, reservation will be confirmed once the payment is settled on specific date. Please contact us for more details.

TICKET PRICE: HK$200 (Early Bird) HK$280 (At the Door)

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Abalone Ambrosia at Imperial Court, MGM Macau 澳門美高梅鮑魚盛宴

C

hinese always fancy exotic rare dishes of abalone, sea cucumber, shark fins and fish maw. Abalone has always been one of the most luxurious food item. It is also highly valued

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for health. It is rich in proteins, magnesium and omega-3 fatty acids, etc. This month the Imperial Court at MGM Macau is presenting the

Abalone Ambrosia menu, using 4 types of abalone including Ta s m a n i a n ,   S o u t h   A f r i c a n , Nagasaki and Dalian in innovative styles,  serving  up  Cantonese, Sichuan and Beijing renditions of this succulent delicacy. Live Tasmanian  abalone  is  lightly poached in superior stock, bursting with a rich flavor and smooth texture. For nutritious ingredients being used, black garlic is used to make the wok-fired Nagasaki abalone with chili, shallot that is sweet and savory, melting in your mouth. The chef is also reinventing a Cantonese classic dish to make a braised whole pigeon stuffed with South African abalone, lotus seed, ginkgo nuts and barley in brown sauce. The Dalian abalone is wokfired with goose liver and the rare Sarcodon  aspratus  mushroom for its musky aroma cooked in a Beijing Royal style. The 3 styles of Cantonese, Beijing and Sichuan style of abalone bring new culinary experience to abalone lovers. 中國人吃得矜貴,「鮑、參、 翅、肚」不可少,鮑魚作為傳 統名貴食材,不單肉質鮮美, 而且營養價值高,含有豐富蛋

白質、鎂、奧米加3等。 本月澳門美高梅星級食府金殿 堂便推出了最新的「海味之 冠‧鮑魚盛筵」將來自澳洲、 南非、日本長崎和中國大連的 四種鮑魚配以多款健康食材, 以粵、京、川三種烹調方式呈 上,包括採用澳洲活鮑切片後 以上湯微灼的粵式「堂灼過橋 澳洲鮮鮑片」,將鮑魚的新鮮 原味帶出。而說起健康食材, 相信大家都有聽過或嚐過黑 蒜的獨特味道,另一款以川式 烹調製作的「有機黑蒜大千爆 長崎鮮鮑片」使用來自瑞士的 有機黑蒜,將香甜微辣的川味 融合到鮑片中。另外大廚又以 廣東傳統製作八寶鴨的方式將 原隻南非鮑、薏米、蓮子、銀 杏、冬菇等食材釀入已起骨的 乳鴿內後以原汁炆扣,製成味 道豐富的「鮑魚八寶釀扣乳 鴿」。最後以京式製作的「油 雞樅菌茄子蒸大連鮮鮑魚」以 雲南油雞樅菌的樸實香氣帶出 鮑魚的鮮香。粵、京、川三種 烹調方式帶出四款截然不同的 鮑魚美饌! Enquiry: Imperial Court @ MGM Macau 澳門美高梅金殿堂

Tel: (853)8802 2361

3/9/13 6:55 PM


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Exotic Indian Gourmet by Westin Resort Macau 澳門威斯汀酒店 充滿異國風味的印度美食

樓依山而建,無論入住任何一 間客房,都可以在私人露臺上 飽覽黑沙海灘的美景,而位於 頂樓的澳門高爾夫球鄉村俱樂 部伸延著一個十八洞的錦標賽 高爾夫場,更可以俯瞰黑沙灘 及南中國海的壯觀美景。

L

ocated in the south of Coloane Island in Macau, Westin Resort Macau has always been the first choice of resort in Macau as it has the best location, overlooking the fascinating Hac Sa Beach. The 8-storey complex is terracing up a mountainside with each room opening onto a private and spacious terrace with an uninterrupted full beach view. The Golf Club at the rooftop has a 18 holes tournament style golf course, overlooking the South China Sea. The resort offer relaxing nature

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and is awarded numerous times as the best hotel resort in Macau. For health conscious guests, the resort provide different personal care services like SPA and fitness room, a very nice swimming sharing the same nice view of the resort. Special food menu with vegetables and cereals for lowcalories is also available for those looking for healthy lifestyle.

The Indian chefs will prepare a series of authentic Indian dishes like Salad, Naan, Roti, Tandoori Chicken, different kinds of curry including Butter Chicken, Red Curry Lamb, etc. Vegetarian food, authentic Indian ice cream and dessert are also available. A relaxing resort to stay and also could experience the best indian culinary night in town.

In the Café Panorama on the first floor which provide a wide variety of local and Asian cuisine, is now serving a wide an Indian themed Tandoori BBQ and Curry buffet every Thursday.

坐落於路環島南端的澳門威斯 汀酒店以其優美的環境和景 觀,以及方便至極的地理位 置,一直都是客人心目中的渡 假好去處。擁有一望無際的黑 沙灣美景、樓高八層的酒店大

威斯汀酒店不但環境優美,而 且更獲獎無數,讓客人無時無 刻都能夠享受得到悠閑舒適的 渡假生活。除了一系列從客人 健康角度出發的服務,如專為 客人訂製的客房水療和保持健 美的健身設施外,威斯汀亦推 出了「活力食品」菜單,以獨 特風味和健康的角度出發,以 蔬果、穀物為主的食材,烹調 出天然低熱量的健康膳食。 其中位於威斯汀一樓的西餐廳 便推出了充滿風味的印度天多 尼燒烤及咖哩自助晚餐,逢星 期四晚上都會供應由印度大廚 親自炮製的多款印式美食,由 印度風味沙律吧、印度特色麵 包、炭燒天多尼肉串、多款咖 哩如牛油雞、紅咖哩燴羊肉 等,還有專為素食者而設的素 食系列,還有難得一試的印度 雪糕和甜點等。享受健康的住 宿之餘又可以滿足印度風味美 食的口腹之慾!

3/9/13 6:55 PM


020

Cru Special

Text : Eddie Chui

The Silver Knight 優雅的白銀騎士

Last month the Wynns Coonawarra Estate, represented by Jebsen Fine Wines in Hong Kong, was coming to celebrate the new vintages with Wynns Day events. Earlier in July, we had a panel tasting of top Australian Shiraz wines in which the Michael Shiraz from Wynns has won the first place and showed its potential as the famed Coonawarra Estate. Pioneer at Coonawarra Wynns Coonawarra Estate is one of the earliest estates in the region. As early as 1891, John Riddoch, coming from Scotland, has started planting vineyards and building the unique triple gables cellar. Later, Samuel Wynn, a wine merchant based in Melbourne also shares the same vision about the potential as John and brought this estate in 1951, renaming it as Wynns Coonawarra Estate, which becomes the icon winery of the region. Coonawarra is showing a very different terroir comparing to Barossa with a much cooler climate and the acclaimed soil of Terra Rossa. Magnificent “Red Earth” Wynns Coonawarra Estate owns about 70% of vineyard in this Terra Rossa region, highly sought after by many winemakers and cost AUD100,000 per hectare now. On top of the narraw cigar-shaped ridge, besides optimal exposure and drainage, which are the important aspects of getting great grapes, the red soil of Terra Rossa also give wonderful characters to the wine made on this terroir. Like the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, a tribute to the pioneer of the Wynns Estate, is made from grapes sourced mainly from this great vineyard, the intensity and richness, complemented by great elegance of aroma and fruitiness. This sets a perfect example of excellent Australian wines today. It is classified as “Outstanding” by the authoritative Langton’s Classification of Australian wine and has been rated 98/100 by James Halliday. An Elegant Shiraz

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2011 $175 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Riesling 2011 $175 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2011 $185 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2010 $200 Wynns Coonawarra Estate The Gables Cabernet Shiraz 2010 $215

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $310 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2009 $650 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $650

Comparing to Cabernet, I fall even more for the Michael Shiraz with its cool-climate and elegant style. Nowadays, more people are not going for the over-explosive styled Barossa Shiraz that you would never want the second glass. But Michael Shiraz is very juicy, rich yet refreshing and elegant even for younger vintages. This new wave of wine style has become more popular because we do not always taste wines that need decades to mature. We want wines that are approachable when young, but still have the potential to show a complex, mature body after 10 to 20 years. Wynns Coonawarra Estate is representing the new era of Australian wines and leading the region or even the whole country in which direction that should be heading.

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Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / email: victorrabot@jebsen.com 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui) / email: vanessachui@jebsen.com

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Chief Winemaker - Sue Hodder 上月捷成洋酒代理的Wynns Coonawarra Estate特別來港舉辦了一連串的Wynns Day活動,發佈2013 年酒莊推出的一系列新年份佳釀。還記得早兩個月在我們的每月品試當中,Wynns的Michael Shiraz榮 獲我們在眾多頂級澳洲Shiraz當中的第一名,見證了這位於Coonawarra產區最具代表性的酒莊。

Coonawarra先鋒酒莊 Wynns Coonawarra Estate 是區內最早期成立的酒莊之一,早在 1891 年,來自蘇格蘭的創辦人 John Riddoch便開始在區內種植葡萄,並建立起別具特色的三尖頂酒窖。後來同樣別具眼光的墨爾 本酒商Samuel Wynn於1951年把這酒莊買下,成為今時今日的Wynns Coonawarra Estate,而且 更成為區內最具代表性酒莊。Coonawarra有別於其他南澳的地區如Barossa,展現出不同的風格。 除了較為清涼的氣候,還有獨特的紅色土壤,形成了與別不同的terroir。 夢幻的紅色土壤

Wynns Coonawarra Estate有70%的葡萄是種植於名為Terra Rossa的紅土地上,是當地釀酒師夢 寐以求的terroir,現在每公頃的葡萄園叫價超過AUD100,000。在這狹長的山坡上,排水及日照都 非常良好,加上清涼的天氣,是釀造出現代派優雅葡萄酒的必備條件,而這紅土地的礦物成份,更是 釀造優雅葡萄酒的重要元素。就像是用作記念開創Coonawarra莊園的John Riddoch而推出的限量

John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon,便是採用來自Terra Rossa最好的葡萄釀造,優雅的酒體, 加上濃厚而細緻的果香,是Coonawarra,甚至是澳洲Cabernet Sauvignon的典範。難怪在澳洲葡 萄酒「龍虎榜」的Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine當中,這款只在酒莊認為出眾的年份 才釀造的酒釀,能被評定為Outstanding類別,而James Halliday也曾給予98/100的高度評價。 優雅的Shiraz 比起Cabernet,我更喜愛Michael Shiraz獨有的清涼優雅風格。不少人都開始對Barossa那些過度爆 發性、厚實的Shiraz感到厭倦,因為一杯下去已不想再喝第二杯。但Michael Shiraz那種清新優雅而又 汁多豐腴的口感更能贏得掌聲。不得不重新體會這種另類的澳洲Shiraz風格,也有更多的釀酒師開始在 不同的產區釀造這種讓人更能享受得到的酒釀,我們要的不是只能等待十年、二十年的所謂名酒,而是 要一些年青時美味可口,而往後數十年仍會不斷成熟、變化的經典酒款。Wynns Coonawarra Estate 絕對是走在澳洲葡萄酒的尖端,代表著澳洲酒壇對美味可口的葡萄酒重新定義。

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Cover Story

情繫

Coldstream  Hills

Fall for

Text: Eddie Chui

Shiraz always comes to our mind when we talk about Australian wines. But such a huge continent could actually give us diverse terroirs, resulting in different wines of various styles. Regional Heroes are now common when we are exploring different wine regions. Yarra Valley is one of my favourite regions, featuring elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which could draw attentions from most wine lovers. One of the most representative wineries would be Coldstream Hills Estate founded by famous wine critics James Halliday. 提起澳洲葡萄酒,大家必定想起Shiraz,但其實澳洲地大物博,擁有豐富的terroir,釀造出不同風格的葡萄酒。尤其近年當地推行的

Regional Hero政策,希望突顯澳洲葡萄酒的多樣性。Yarra Valley是筆者喜愛的產酒區之一,優雅的Pinot Noir及Chardonnay最讓人印 象深刻。不得不提的是這區的先鋒酒莊之一,由澳洲權威酒評家James Halliday創辦的Coldstream Hills酒莊。

James Halliday was coming back to Hong Kong to present the wines from

今 次 難 得 James  Halliday 再 次 來 到 香 港 , 為 的 是 展 示 由 他 一 手 創 辦 的

the Coldstream Hills Estate that he established almost 30 years ago. He

Coldstream Hills 酒莊旗下的各款酒釀,包括一系列著名的 Chardonnay 及

was even bringing some back vintages of the famous Chardonnay and

Pinot Noir酒釀,還帶來不少舊年份的珍藏。談起創辦的過程,James笑言葡

Pinot Noir in order to show their potential after 10 years. James reminded

萄酒像是他生命之中老婆以外另一位重要的情人。早在1970年,他在悉尼任

us that it is such a wonderful journey building this estate and joking that

職律師時,跟幾個志同道合的朋友創辦了Brokenwood酒莊。之後他開始在工

wine became a mistress besides his beloved wife. In 1970 when he was

餘時間發展他的酒評跟葡萄酒寫作事業,很快便得到業界的肯定。他在1983

working as a lawyer in Sydney, he already started the Brokenwood Estate

年遷往墨爾本工作,並跟妻子計劃五年後退休,專注於有關葡萄酒的工作。

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023

with a few wine buddies. After that he was spending more time on wine writing and judging, earning reputations in the wine circle quickly. In 1983, he moved to work in and planned with his wife for retirement, focusing on his wine career. The love for Pinot Noir James told us that it was a bottle of 1962 La Tâche shared by Len Evans, his great wine tutor, that turn him into the wine world deeply. That is also how he falls for Pinot Noir, hoping one day that he could make his own bottle. During the 70’s, when he was researching for his book, he visited the newly developed Yarra Valley and was fascinated by the Pinot there. He said, “it was love at first sight, and I had the feeling that these wines will pass through all other Australian wines to go to the top! I was hoping to

鍾情Pinot Noir

move to there for my dream.” Finally in 1983 he moved to Melbourne to

James 憶述他的葡萄酒啟蒙導師 Len  Evans 曾經分享過一瓶 1962 的 La

for the lawyer branch there and decided to retire in Yarra Valley with his wife

Tâche ,讓他不能回頭,完全投入了葡萄酒的世界,因此他特別鍾情於

for the Pinot dream. In 1985 he acquired an estate in Coldstream Hills and

Pinot  Noir ,也希望親手釀造自己的 Pinot 。在 70 年代為著作四出拜訪酒

started planting vineyards and building a winery, which was named after the

莊,來到當時屬於新開發的產酒區 Yarra  Valley 時,對當地釀造的 Pinot 印

place, the Coldstream Hills Estate. At that time, there were only 20 wineries

象深刻。 James 表示:「就在當時,便已經一見傾心,感覺這些酒釀超越

in Yarra but now it is over 200, proving that the vision of James was correct

了其他的澳洲葡萄酒,而我也覺得我總有一天會在此植根。」終於在 1983

to explore the region.

年他搬到附近的墨爾本,跟妻子計劃好退休後要在 Yarra Valley 追尋自己的 葡萄酒夢。在 1985 年終於成功找到一片位於 Coldstream Hills 約 16 公頃的

New Era

的莊園,並開始種植葡萄,正式建立起Coldsream Hills酒莊。當時的Yarra

From 1996, Coldstream Hills started a new era with new capital investing

Valley 只有約 20 間酒莊,相對現時約 200 間酒莊, James 對這產區的潛力獨

to expand. But the vineyard management and style of wine were still the

具慧眼,也成為當中一位重要的先鋒。

same. As a Burgundian lover, James was looking to make wine similar in style, employing low yield, open-top tanks, and French oak barrels in

時代變遷

order to make some glorious wines. Yarra Valley has a cool climate and

自1996年起,Coldstream Hills進入另一紀元,新的資金流入使酒莊不斷擴

the vineyards located at the steep slope facing north grow the best Pinot

展,但葡萄園的管理及釀酒的風格仍保持著James的構想。James一開始便

Noir and Chardonnay. Nowadays, besides the Reserve wines, a series

是以勃艮第風格為目標,低產量,開頂的釀酒槽,法國橡木桶,釀造出美妙

of Single Vineyard wines is also available now. James has led us through

的酒釀。Yarra Valley清涼的氣候,而葡萄園多在高峭的山坡上,成為最理想

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from different site, different single vineyards

的Pinot Noir及Chardonnay莊園之一。一系列精彩的Chardonnay及單一葡萄

and some back vintages as old as 10 years old. They are also showing

園的Pinot Noir在此誕生,James帶領我們品嚐包括十年前的Chardonnay及

individual character of the vineyards and the vintages.

Pinot Noir,也可看到釀酒風格的轉變。

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Cover Story

Chardonnay Chardonnay is one of the highlight of Coldstream Hills Estate, with the exceptional terroir, viticultural practice and management similar to the way in Burgundy. As a Burgundian wine lover, James had traveled to Burgundy a lot and visited many estates, meeting winemakers and viticulturists, therefore, learning a lot about Pinot and Chardonnay. The Chardonnay made at Coldstream Hills could unveil fully the potential of Yarra Valley, and is particularly more aromatic and floral than other regions. In order to focus on the acidity, they started to pick up earlier in recent years and restrain the influence of barrels by using less new oak and undergo shorter aging. Tasting the 2012 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay and the Reserve Chardonnay, I found them lean with crispy acidity, very subtle note of oak, indicating the use of old barrel and shorter aging. They tasted like premium Chablis from 1er Cru. The Reserve wine is richer and more intense oak flavour, but still very restrained. After that we had the 2010 and 2011 vintages of Reserve Chardonnay, with similar style but more toastiness on nose and flinty mineral on the finish, the character of aged Chardonnay. James told us that they decided not to use Malolactic Fermentation to retain more freshness in the wines, resembling the style we have in Burgundy. At last, we had the 2005 Reserve Chardonnay which is different from the current vintages, showing more body, richness, but still retain enough acidity for freshness after aging 8 years. It’s not like some dull wine from the era which could never age well. Chardonnay 可以說是 Coldstream Hills 的招牌作,得天獨厚的地理環境,加上以勃艮 第方式種植及管理的葡萄園,由於 James 曾多次到法國勃艮第拜訪不同的酒莊,跟當 地的釀酒師、葡萄農交流,或多或少也受到當地的葡萄酒文化所影響,見識份外廣博, 細節上也有別於當時其他酒莊。因此Coldstream Hills的Chardonnay最能表現出Yarra

Valley 較清涼的氣候,比起其他地區的 Chardonnay ,花香更為出息,同時帶有充足的 酸度,近年更開始提早採收葡萄,對橡木桶的使用也盡可能減到最少。 品嚐 2012 年的 Coldstream  Hills  Chardonnay 及 Reserve  Chardonnay 時,感覺纖 細,帶清爽的酸度,低調而細膩的橡木桶氣息,明顯使用了較多的舊木桶作短時間的 陳釀。感覺上很像高階的 Chablis 一級田酒釀一般。而 Reserve 酒款則帶多一點濃郁的 果香,也多了點橡木的氣息,但仍然很抑制,不會太多,收結及變化更多一點。及後 的 2011 及 2010 也帶相似的風格,火石般的礦物氣色,較重的煙燻香氣,是經過陳年 後的 Chardonnay 所散發出的魅力。近年釀造的 Chardonnay 更顯精進,更早採收葡 萄,使用更少新桶,不再進行乳酸發酵( Malolactic Fermentation ),充滿勃艮第的 影子。像 James 曾經說過一樣,這樣的酒根本不像澳洲葡萄酒。而 2005 年的 Reserve

Chardonnay 也代表著當時的酒風,比現在圓潤、豐厚,但經過八年時間仍不失酸度, 保持著清新的感覺,不會是沉悶乏力的老弱殘酒。

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Pinot Noir Pinot Noir is always James’ favourite grape. In Coldstream Hills everything is like in Burgundy: open top tanks; punching down of skin cap for extraction; use of French oak. James remembers that there were 2 winemakers from Burgundy visiting him and were mistakened by the wines served by James as Burgundian reds. Actually those wines were Pinot Noir from Coldstream Hills. We started with eldest Reserve Pinot Noir of vintage 2004. James also mentioned that his favourite would be 1992 but there is too to share now. I found the 2004 still very young, with good aroma and length, showing complexity and is still evolving till the end of the tasting. Then we moved on to the Pinot Noir and Reserve wine of 2012, showing very different styles. The Pinot is more forward and comes with refreshing fruitiness, making it a good companion of food. While the Reserve Pinot is more structured, but balanced and elegant, with a long finishing. Besides, we also tasted some single vineyard bottlings with different characters. The Deer Farm Pinot Noir 2012 is like a Chambolle-Musigny with attractive floral aroma, soft and delicate; while the Esplanade Pinot Noir 2012 shows power with spiciness and minerals, firm tannin structure reminds me of wines from Pommard. The difference is brought by difference in soil and vineyard positions. Like the Chardonnay, they are using less and less new oak for fresher wines. Maybe James is right, these wines are not like any other Australian wines, and they will be the pioneers of Australian wines. For the past 30 years, he is staying in Yarra Valley to see how his dream about Pinot Noir and Chardonnay becomes truly lengendary. James最引以為傲的酒釀絕對是Pinot Noir。完全參照勃艮第的種植及釀造方法,開頂的 釀酒槽以Punching down的方法從葡萄皮提取色素及單寧,使用法國橡木桶陳釀。James 憶述某次有兩位從勃艮第來的釀酒師,在盲品James準備的葡萄酒時,都誤把Coldstream

Hills的Pinot Noir當作勃艮第的酒釀。 我們先從最老的 2004 年 Reserve  Pinot  Noir 開始品嚐,一探這 Pinot  Noir 的陳年潛 力。James透露自己最喜愛的是1992年的酒釀,可惜所剩無幾,不能隨便拿來試飲。我的 感覺認為這款酒仍然年輕,香氣及收結還很吸引悠長,在品試中到尾仍有不少變化。然後 品嚐Pinot Noir及Reserve Pinot Noir的2012年酒釀,顯現出不同的風格。Pinot Noir比較 偏重清新的果香,容易親近,是日常佐餐的良伴。而Reserve Pinot Noir則較厚實,然而不 失平衡優雅,收結悠長。 除此之外,一系列的單一葡萄園酒釀也很能表現出不同的個性:例如Deer Farm Pinot Noir

2012有著如Chambolle-Musigny般的花香,柔和脫俗;而另一款Esplanade Pinot Noir 2012,由於土壤及座向不同,那帶辛辣、礦物及厚重的酒體有如來自Pommard的酒釀, 屬於強而有力的酒款。跟Chardonnay一樣,減少使用木桶為酒帶來不一樣的風格。也許 跟James所說一樣,這些是超越澳洲葡萄酒的先鋒。經過三十年,他仍是住在Yarra Valley 中,見證著這他認為是聖域的酒區,釀造出美妙的Pinot Noir及Chardonnay。

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PANEL TASTING

Time Traveling with Sicily 西西里的時光隧道 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong Images: Alvin Luk // Special Thanks: Messina

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When speaking of Italian wines, most people would immediately

說起意大利酒,很多人都會立即想到著名的Tuscany或者Piedmont

think of the famous wines of Tuscany or Piedmont, but there are

的酒,但出產好酒的地區又何止這些呢?位於意大利南部,亦即是

regions in the country just as great as those two. In the south of

地圖上那隻靴子前那一顆小石頭,就是著名的西西里島,西西里島

Italy on the very boot of the country lies Sicily, where the ancient

不單是意大利面積最大的一個島,島上的葡萄園竟也比意大利其他

vineyards of region have great history and quality.

釀酒區為多,而且其釀酒歷史也相當久遠。

Historical records show that Sicilian viticulture and wine-making

歷史記載,西西里島的葡萄種植和葡萄酒釀製遠至公元1500年已經

go as far back as the year 1500, when the Phoenicians first began

有史可尋,由最初的腓尼基人在島上開始種植葡萄,到後來的希臘

planting grapes on the island, and later the Greeks and Romans

人與羅馬人帶來了更多種植技術、阿拉伯人又帶來了Moscato製作

brought more planting techniques such as using raisins to make

葡萄乾。在多國殖民統治下的西西里島的歷史文化多姿多彩,從而

Moscato. Sicily has a colourful history and culture, developing

發展出風味獨特,而且融合多樣的技術與風格的葡萄酒。

a unique flavour for its wines from the integration of a variety of techniques and grapes.

跟許多世上古老的釀酒區一樣,西西里島亦有著它的傳統—

Marsala。跟雪莉酒和砵酒一樣,在十七世紀時,Marsala也是因為 Like many old cultures, Sicily also has its own traditional spirits like

要經過長途的海路運輸而把酒質強化,才可以保持酒質不變壞,於

Marsala. In the 17th century, Marsala became popular like Port

是當時Marsala就成了西西里島最名揚海外的酒了。但是,在西西里

and Sherry due to the need to maintain wine over long-distance

島上,無論氣候、地勢和各方面的天然環境,都有著種植釀酒葡萄

sea travel. It is a wine bulked up with grape spirit, and was the first

的優秀條件,溫暖乾燥、地勢起伏讓種在山坡的葡萄能夠更好地吸

alcoholic beverage to make a name for Sicily.

收陽光、四面環海亦讓葡萄園享受到海風的吹拂。在天然因素的輔

Sicilian wines are largely defined by their unique island varietals like

甜酒,在近代20年間更在國際間獲獎無數,名震世界。

助下,西西里島除了出名的Marsala外,一直出產著優秀的紅、白和

the red grapes Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese, and the white grapes Grillo and Insolia. Nero d’Avola is one of the indigenous

西西里酒的名字響噹噹,很大程度上亦歸功於其島上獨有的原生品

grapes commonly used in the local blends, and is sometimes

種,例如紅葡萄品種 Nero d’Avola 、 Nerello Mascalese ;和白葡

blended with international varieties such as Syrah. However it is

萄品種Grillo、Insolia等。Nero d’Avola是西西里島其中一種最古老

also increasingly made with 100% Nero d’Avola, as winemakers

的品種,而且各個地區都有種植和釀製,很多紅酒款都會使用Nero

seek to promote more of a Sicilian identity on their bottles. Sicily

d’Avola單一品種釀製,或者混入一些國際品種如 Syrah等。今日的

today has 23 DOCs and 1 DOCG, and there are such famous

西西里島一共有 23 個 DOC 和一個 DOCG ,從南到北、東至西都釀

terroirs like the volcanic soil in Mt. Etna. For example Etna Rosso

製著獨特的原生酒款,來自著名火山Mt. Etna的Etna Rosso便是由

focuses on 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Mantellato,

95% Nerello Mascalese及5% Nerello Mantellato釀製;另外,作

while the island’s only DOCG area, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, excels in

為島上唯一的DOCG地區,Cerasuolo di Vittoria的Nero d’Avola及

Nero d’Avola and Frappato.

Frappato混釀亦是相當不錯的。

In this issue’s panel tasting, we bring to you 38 Sicilian wines

在今期的《釀‧生活》品酒會,就讓我們為大家帶來 38款西西里島

which reveal the intricacies of this island wine region, as our

佳釀,在選酒時我們更特地篩選過,只將島上原生品種釀製的酒款

trusted sommeliers taste them one by one.

或混釀放入酒單中,由我們的專業品酒師們逐一品評。

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PANEL TASTING

Erice

Marsala

Wine Regions of Sicily

Alcamo Monreale Palermo

Delia Nivolelli

Malvasia delle Lipari

Salaparuta

Contea di Sclafani

Moscato di Pantelleria, Passito di Pantelleria Mamertino di Faro Milazzo

Santa Margherila di Belica Menfi Sambuca di Sicilia

Sciacca

Contessa Entellina

Etna Catania

Riesi Moscato di Siracusa

Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Vittoria DOC

Moscato di Noto

Eloro

Scoring system 100 point system / 100分系統 points awarded

year of tasting

best potential year to taste

得分

品評年份

最佳飲用年份

88 2012

2020A

D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用,但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用

Panel Tasting_Sicily wines.indd 3

96-100

Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒,各方面達到最高水準,讓人再三回味。

90-95

Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring

85-89

Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir

80-84

Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.

70-79

Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.

60-69

Dull or flat wine without character

50-59

Faulty or unacceptable wine

出眾的酒,各方面表現出色,鮮明具吸引力 。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並,但表現並不突出。 簡單,直接的酒,但未能突個性。 不對眼,沒有個性,沉悶的酒。 有問題,不能接受的酒

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PANEL TASTING

029

Tasters

From Left: Billy Yeung, Ian Symonds, Mabel Lai, Chris Lai, JC Viens, Zachary Yu, Tersina Shieh, Wallace Lo, Hood Hon, Akihiko Nosaka

Guest Tasters Akihiko Nosaka Akihiko Nosaka joined the Japan Sommelier Association as Certified Senior Sommelier in 2004. Since 2007, he had repeatedly been a finalist of the National Sommelier Competition, and also the Cuvée Louis Pommery sommelier competition. Before coming to Hong Kong, Nosaka was the Chief Sommelier of The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo. He is now the Director of Beverage at K.O. Dining Group. 野坂昭彥於2004年獲日本品酒師協會認證為高級品酒師,並於2007年起多次晉身國家品酒師大賽及Cuvée Louis Pommery 品酒師大賽決賽。來港工作前野坂是東京麗思卡爾頓酒店首席品酒師,刻下他是K.O. Dining Group飲料部總監。

Billy Yeung Billy Yeung holds an Advanced Degree from the WSET and is a Grand Master of Scotch Whisky of The Whiskies Selection. He studied hotel management in Switzerland for four years and then proceeded to work in The Peninsula Hong Kong. Billy then went to Soupir de dame as their Wine Buyer & Educator, teaching at the Hong Kong Vocational Training Council. In 2011 Billy also taught a series of courses at the HKUST, and is now a Sommelier for the K.O Dining Group. 持有WSET Advance、Grand Master of Scotch Whisky of The Whiskies Selection、曾代表出賽Cotes du Rhone Wines Challenge。2005年於瑞士工作及修讀酒店管理四年,畢業後於香港半島酒店工作。2009至2011年為網上洋酒商店Soupir de dame的Wine buyer & Educator,為香港職業訓練局、香港科技大學和洋酒店舖提供餐桌禮儀及葡萄酒銷售課程。2011 年獲邀成為廣州富國酒業之侍酒師,現為K.O Dining的侍酒師。

Chris Lai Chris is an Associate Member of the Institute of Wine and Spirit (AIWS), who graduated from WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits with merit. He is a WSET® Certified Educator and Internal Assessor. Chris is also a wine lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Academy and he has been actively teaching a wide range of wine training programs for various catering enterprises and other organizations in both Hong Kong and PRC. Recently, Chris becomes the guest speaker of the radio program “Half Past Wine “ of FM99.7 METROINFO. 黎卓匡先生是英國葡萄酒與烈酒學院的院士(AIWS)。他考獲葡萄酒與烈酒教育基金會(WSET®)的文憑資格並取得優良成 績。黎先生是WSET®認可教育家和內部評審員。他任教於香港葡萄酒教育中心,並為香港及中國大陸多家餐飲業企業及其他 機構主講多方面的葡萄酒培訓課程。最近,黎先生為新城知訊台FM99.7節目“Half Past Wine酒點半”的擔任嘉賓主持。

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Red_ COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2oo7 93 2013

2023A

Region: Cerasuolo di Vittoria // Grape Variety: 40%Frappato, 60% Nero d’Avola Cottage Vineyards International Ltd. // 2395 1293 // www.cosvittoria.it

1 TOP

$368

COS is one of the most fascinating and trailblazing wineries in Sicily, and are based in Vittoria, the only DOCG of Sicily. They favour low-intervention winemaking, and make some of the most fresh and elegant examples of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. COS 是西西里島上最迷人的和具開創性的酒廠之一,總部設在 Vittoria ,西西里島唯一的 DOCG地區。他們傾向使用低介入釀酒方式,釀造清新淡雅的Nero D’avola和Frappato。

JC Viens

Pale ruby core. Complex and expressive nose of red fruits and earthy notes with a touch of leather. Savoury and silky with an expressive moderate length finish. 淡紅寶石的酒液。複雜的香氣如皮革、紅色水果、亦帶咸香和柔 滑的感覺,收結長度適中。

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031

$348

This 250 acre estate was founded in 2000 by Antonio Moretti and his daughter Monika, who own Tenuta Sette Ponti and Poggio al Lupo in Tuscany. More than 50 separate plots yield the fruit for this winery, which is known for its excellent Nero d’Avola based wines. 同時擁有位於Tuscany的Tenuta Sette Ponti 和Poggio al Lupo,這250英畝的莊園由

Antonio Moretti和他的女兒Monika始建於2000年。擁有超過50塊獨立葡萄種植土地,以 優良的Nero d’Avola葡萄酒而聞名。

Wallace Lo Dark prunes. Youthful aromas that are dense. With aromas of roasted fruit, plums, licorice, and a mix of different sweet spices. On the palate it is well structured with a dense and bold body. 黑李子。相當青春的氣息,相當密集。帶烤水果、李子、甘草、 以及不同甜香料的混合香味。口感上它有著很好的結構,緊湊度

2 相當佳。

TOP

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Feudo Maccari Maharis IGT Sicilia 2oo8 91 2015

2020K

Region: Noto // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.feudomaccari.it

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3

Gulfi NeroBaronj 2oo8  90 2015

2022K

Region: Eloro // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  Jebsen Fine Wines // 3180 3424 // www.gulfi.it

$328

TOP

Azienda Gulfi has won a host of awards that recognizes the winery for being one of the best in Sicily. Winemaking here is low-key, and the grapes are all certified organic. These wines are pure and complex. Azienda Gulfi已經贏得了許多獎項,被譽為西西里最好的酒廠之一。這裡釀造低調和有機 認證的葡萄酒。這些葡萄酒都是純淨而複雜度十足的酒釀。

Mabel Lai

Deep ruby colour. Obvious ripe plum and cherry with lots of cedar and mocha on the nose. Ripe plums interwoven with cedar, mocha, and licorice. Not acidic and balanced with firm tannins. Long finish. 深紅寶石色。雪松和摩卡的香氣,亦有明顯的成熟李子和櫻桃 香。再交織著成熟的李子、雪松、摩卡和甘草味。不太酸,相 當平衡和單寧堅實,收結悠長。

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033

$198

Feudo Maccari Saia IGT Sicilia 2o1o 90 2015

2017K

Region: Noto // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.feudomaccari.it

Tersina Shieh Ruby core, spicy herbs and cloves on the nose. The wine has grippy tannins with a dense palate, and needs a few years to develop. 紅寶石核心,辛辣的香草和丁香的香氣。帶緊實的單寧,和口感,仍有待幾年時 間的發展和陳釀。

$350

Passopisciaro IGT 2oo7 90 2013

2015A

Region: Etna // Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese Corney & Barrow Hong Kong // 2537 3325 // www.passopisciaro.com

Ian Symonds Very pale ruby, on the nose some red fruits, hints of spice. Palate is fresh red fruit, medium-plus acidity. Fine tannins and a bitter-sweet twist at the end. 非常淡的紅寶石色,帶紅色水果和香料味。口感是鮮紅色的果實,中等以上的 酸度。精緻的單寧以及點點甘苦味道的收結。

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$175

Duca di Salaparuta Lavico Mt. Etna 2oo9 90 2013

2016A

Region: Etna // Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese Valdivia Ltd. // 2555 7431 // www.duca.it

Zachary Yu Light ruby red colour with pink-orange rims. Nose of red fruits, asian spices, and dry rose petals. On the palate it is light but juicy and filled with fresh fruit. Medium-finish, succulent with light tannins. 淺紅寶石色與粉橘色的邊緣。帶紅色水果、亞洲香料、乾玫瑰花瓣香。口 感輕盈多汁,充滿了新鮮水果香。中等收結帶淺色單寧。

$338

Valle dell’ Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2oo9 89 2013

2016A

Region: Cerasuolo di Vittoria // Grape Variety: 70% Nero d’Avola, 30% Frappato  Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Wallace Lo

Pure shiny ruby, subtle nose, driven by good minerals, violets and cranberries on the nose. A very seductive style with bright acidity. Firm tannins, a touch of meat, with the fruit of fresh cranberries, wild forest berries, and good minerality. Well balanced food wine. 純閃亮的紅寶石,溫和的香氣,帶良好的礦物、紫羅蘭和小紅莓的香氣。非常 誘人的風格,明亮的酸度。緊湊的單寧,帶淡淡的肉香、果香、新鮮小紅莓、 野生森林漿果,以及良好的礦物。一款相當平衡的佐餐酒。

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Tenuta Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2o11 89 2013

$208

2018A

Region: Etna // 95% Nerello Mascalese, 5% Nerello Cappuccio Wine Culture Ltd. // 2810 1186 // www.tenutaterrenere.com

JC Viens Pale ruby core with a pale rim. Delicate red fruits with a touch of pine and forest herbs. Silky and concentrated with good aging potential and a firm finish. 淡紅寶石核心與淡淡的邊緣。精緻的紅果帶有一些如松樹和森林香草的味道。絲 滑的質感、集中力良好,具有很好的陳年潛力,收結緊密。

$338

Feudi del Pisciotto Versace 2oo8 89 2015

2020A

Region: Noto // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  General Wine & Foods Company Ltd. // 3521 0334 // www.castellare.it

Chris Lai

Powerful dark fruits, even slightly jammy, with beautiful subtle minerals at the nose. Full-bodied with good concentration of fruit. Smokey and flinty minerals all the way through the palate. Very well balanced even though there is high alcohol. A nice wine with strong character. 強烈的深色水果,略為黏著的質感,微妙的礦物氣息。酒體飽滿,果香豐郁。礦物和煙燻香 味豐富,口感相當佳。平衡良好,即使是酒精含量稍高。是一款不錯的葡萄酒,有著鮮明的 特色。

Valle dell’ Acate Il Moro 2oo9 89 2013

$338

2025A

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate (RG) – Eastern Sicily // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Billy Yeung Medium intensity ruby red. Aromas of herbs and crushed berries. Well structured and full-bodied with a powerful but elegant intensity. Long lingering finish. 中等強度的寶石紅色。帶香草和壓榨過的漿果香。結構良好,濃郁而優雅的強度,餘 韻悠長。

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Valle dell’ Acate Tane 2oo5

$788

88 2013

2017D

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate (RG) – Eastern Sicily // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola, Syrah Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Zachary Yu

Deep ruby colour with a brick red rim. Cloudy, should be unfiltered. On the nose, prunes blackberries, dried tomatoes, black pepper, and a hint of mint and earth. Dry with ripe dark cherries, prunes, and savoury notes. Full-bodied and rounded. Drink now, but will hold a few years. 深紅寶石色與磚紅色邊緣,有點混濁,應該是不經過濾的酒款。帶李子、黑莓、番茄乾、黑 胡椒,以及淡淡的薄荷和大地氣息。成熟的黑櫻桃、李子乾和鹹香。酒體豐滿圓潤。現在已 適飲,亦可陳釀多幾年。

Duca di Salaparuta Passo delle Mule 2o1o 88 2013

$195

2023A

Region: Salaparuta // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola Valdivia Ltd. // 2555 7431 // www.duca.it

Wallace Lo Lively ruby, typical mineral driven nose. Dusty fruit with a subtle elegance. Candied rose, red cherries, fresh tomato, and a touch of wet wood. On the palate it is sharp and bright with a high acidity and dry tannins. 活潑的紅寶石,典型礦物主導的香氣。四散的水果香,微妙的優雅口感。帶蜜餞玫 瑰、紅櫻桃、新鮮的西紅柿和濕木頭的味道。口感上具有高酸度和乾爽的單寧,清晰 明亮。

$180

Santa Tresa Nivuro IGT 2oo8 88 2013

2017A

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon  Links Concept Company Ltd. // 2802 2818 // www.santatresa.it

Tersina Shieh Ruby colour with spices, herbs, and cloves on the nose. Clear palate with grippy tannins and a medium-plus finish. Will improve in 2-3 years as the tannins develop. 紅寶石色,香料,香草和丁香的鼻子上。清除口感充滿懷舊氣息的單寧和中加完成。在 2-3年內將提高,因為丹寧酸。

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PANEL TASTING

Donnafugata Tancredi Contessa Entellina DOC 2oo8 88 2013

037

$325

2020A

Region: Pantelleria // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon The Wine Gallery by ASC Fine Wines // 2526 2020 // www.donnafugata.it

Zachary Yu Deep garnet with a purple rim. High viscosity. Youthful nose with fresh red cherries, cranberries, and a hint of vanilla. Dry with fresh cherries, mediumplus acidity, and medium tannins. 深石榴石色與紫色邊緣,高粘度。青春氣息如新鮮的紅櫻桃、紅莓和淡淡的香草 味。乾身,帶新鮮櫻桃,中等以上的酸度,單寧適中。

$278

Valle dell’ Acate Il Frappato 2o11 88 2013

2016A

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate (RG) – Eastern Sicily // Grape Variety: Frappato Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Akihiko Nosaka Medium garnet with a slight orange-tinge. Smells of red fruits like strawberry compote and wild berries. Floral scents like hibiscus and violets. On the palate it is well balanced and there is a lingering finish. 中等石榴石色、帶有輕微的橙色。有著紅果、如草莓、蜜餞和野生漿果的氣味。木槿和紫羅 蘭等花香。在口感上有著很好的平衡,餘韻悠長。

Planeta La Segreta Rosso IGT Sicilia 2o11 87 2013

$115

2015D

Region: Menfi // Grape Variety: 50% Nero d’Avola, 25% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Franc Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.planetawines.com

Tersina Shieh Bright ruby colour. Red fruits, herbs, and spices. Rustic style. Good acidity, balance and medium finish. 明亮的紅寶石色。帶紅色水果、藥材、香料等。仿古風格。良好的酸度和平衡,回味 中等。

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Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali Rosso 2oo9

$145

87 2015

2022K

Region: Contea di Sclafani // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  Summergate Ltd. // 2545 4100 // www.tascadalmerita.it

Mabel Lai Bright ruby colour. Very fresh red plum and layered raspberries, combined with some white pepper and aromas of plum, cedar, and hints of liqorice. Structured with firm tannins, a very long finish, and a full-body. 明亮的紅寶石色。非常新鮮的紅李子和覆盆子,結合梅花、雪松、甘草和一些白胡椒的香 味。結構與單寧堅實,很長的收結,酒體結構完整。

Gulfi NeroSanlorè 2oo7 87 2013

2015D

$495

Region: Eloro // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  Jebsen Fine Wines // 3180 3424  // www.gulfi.it

Chris Lai

Attractive aromas of volcanic soil with ripe black cherry fruits. Sharp on the front palate, but fades out rather quickly mid way. Balanced, though fruit and strucutre can’t support the noticeable alcohol. Rather fruit-driven and will not improve with bottle aging. 誘人的香氣像成熟的黑櫻桃果實和火山土壤氣息。前段口感相當尖銳,但中段則迅速 淡出。酒體平衡但不能支持果香和整體結構,以及明顯的酒精。相反其主導的果香並 不會隨陳年而繼續發展。

$418

Valle dell’ Acate Rusciano 2oo7 87 2015

2020A

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate(RG)-South East Sicily // Grape Variety: Blend of Syrah and indigenous grapes Caliu. // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Chris Lai Intense aromas of ripe red fruits and hints of mint and other herbs. Also a strong minerality. On the palate there is good concentration, but I find it slightly too one-dimensional and lacking in complexity. Overall well balanced with a great structure. Should improve over time. 強烈的香味、成熟的紅色水果和薄荷等香草氣息,亦帶強勁的礦物味道。良好的集中力,但 我覺得稍微太單一和缺乏複雜度。整體而言結構平衡,隨著時間應該會更為提高。

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PANEL TASTING

Tami Frappato 2o11 86 2013

039

$135

2018A

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: Frappato Globus Wine Company // 5329 6313 // www.agricolaocchipinti.it

Hood Hon Bright ruby with highlights. Pronounced red cherries, freshly chopped herbs, and savoury notes. Sense of red earthy minerals. Good structure with chewy tannins, a dry palate, followed by a long herbal finish. 明亮的紅寶石色。大量的紅櫻桃、新鮮香草碎和咸香。紅色土狀礦物感覺,其次 是結構和乾爽的口感與單寧酸,很有嚼勁,悠長的收結帶著清新的草本氣息。

$179

Cusumano Benuara 2o1o 86 2014

2016A

Region: Alcamo // Grape Variety: 70% Nero d’Avola, 30% Syrah Montrose Fine Wines // 2555 8877 // www.cuscumano.it

Akihiko Nosaka

Medium garnet with purple edges. On the nose the first impression is intense blackberries and blackcurrant, although there are mint and some spices. On the palate there are lively tannins and acidity on the mouth. The aftertaste reveals bitterness and acidity. 中等石榴石色帶紫色邊緣。氣味的第一印象是強烈的黑莓和黑醋栗,也有薄荷和一點香料。 口感上單寧和酸度豐富。回味透著甘香和酸爽。

Principi di Butera Nero d’Avola di Sicilia 2o1o 86 2013

$178

2016D

Region: Butera // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola Valdivia Ltd. // 2555 7431 // www.feudobutera.it

Akihiko Nosaka Light garnet in colour and beautifully viscous. On the nose it smells like cherry and strawberry compote. Toasted flavour and spices comes with oak. On the palate it is well rounded and has a good structure. 淡石榴石色和不錯的的粘性。在氣味上有點像櫻桃和草莓的果香,以及來自橡木的烘 烤氣息和香料味。口感圓潤,並具有良好的結構。

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PANEL TASTING

COS Frappato IGT 2o11

$298

86 2013

2016A

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: Frappato  Cottage Vineyards International Ltd. // 2395 1293 // www.cosvittoria.it

Mabel Lai Pale ruby colour. Showing some fresh red cherries, raspberries, and herbs on the nose. On the palate quite fruit dominated with some fresh red cherries, raspberries, and thyme. Not too acidic, and some hints of white pepper. 淡紅寶石色。顯示一些新鮮的紅櫻桃,覆盆子,和鼻子上的藥材。上腭相當水果佔主導地位 的一些新鮮的紅櫻桃,覆盆子,和百里香。白胡椒的酸性太強,一些提示。

Tami Nero d’Avola 2o11 85 2014

2017A

$135

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  Globus Wine Company // 5329 6313 // www.agricolaocchipinti.it

Akihiko Nosaka Medium garnet. Intense first impression. Blueberries and mulberries and some herbs like eucalyptus and earthy notes. On the palate there is good structure and acidity, and the tannins linger. 中等石榴石色,強烈的第一氣味,帶藍莓和桑葚、如桉樹般的草本氣息。口感上有著 很好的結構與酸度,單寧縈繞。

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PANEL TASTING

Wh_ ite

Valle dell’ Acate Bidis 2o1o 90 2015

2018A

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate (RG) – Eastern Sicily // Grape Variety: Insolia, Chardonnay Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

1

041

TOP

$418

Valle dell’Acate was created in 1981 and makes wine in the treasured DOCG of Vittoria. They make some of the finest wines in Sicily, and produce careful and honest wines with local grapes. Valle dell’Acate創建於1981年,一直於DOCG地區Vittoria釀酒。他們釀造西西里島上優 秀的葡萄酒,並認真和誠實地生產著葡萄酒。

Chris Lai

Zesty lemon and citrus peel. Wonderful spicy nose that masks the ripe peach notes and dominates the palate. Showing

great

structure

and

demonstrating

some

complexity and potential. Will be better in another 3-5 years. 燦爛的檸檬和橘子皮,精彩的香料氣息濃罩著成熟桃子味道,主 導著整體的味道。極佳的酒體結構,亦展示出其複雜性和潛力。 再過3至5年應該會發展得更成熟。

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PANEL TASTING

$115

Planeta is a group of estates founded by three young Sicilians in the mid 80’s. The Planeta family though, has owned land in Sicily since the 1600’s, and this family continue to innovate throughout this diverse terroir. Planeta是一間80年代中期由三位年輕的西西里人成立的酒莊。Planeta家族自1600年以 來擁有西西里島上的這片土地,亦不斷創新,以多樣化的風土條件釀造多樣的葡萄酒款。

Wallace Lo

Pale gold with an intense ripe and deep nose. Outstanding mineral support; creamy with a touch of fresh butter, honeysuckle, and candied lemon peel. A complex nose on the palate. It is rich, dense, and powerful with a bright acidity. Flavoured with raw almond, ripe peaches, honey, and apples. 淡金色酒液,強烈成熟和深厚的香氣。大量礦物的支持,淡淡的

2

牛油、金銀花、糖漬檸檬皮。複雜的氣味與口感。豐富而密集, 酸度明亮強烈。亦帶有生杏仁、成熟桃子、蜂蜜和蘋果味道。

TOP

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Planeta La Segreta Bianco IGT Sicilia 2o11 88 2013

2016A

Region: Menfi // Grape Variety: 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, 10% Fiano Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.planetawines.com

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PANEL TASTING

Tami Grillo 2o1o 88 2013

2015D

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: Grillo  Globus Wine Company // 5329 6313 // www.agricolaocchipinti.it

$135

043

3 TOP

Located in Vittoria, Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti owned around 10 hectares of vineyards growing local wine grapes like Frappato and Nero d’Avola, with 15 hectares of Olives surrounding. 位於 Vittoria 的 Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti 酒莊擁有大約共 10 公頃的葡萄園 地,種植著西西里東南地區的原生品種Frappato和Nero d’Avola,更種植著15公頃的橄 欖樹,生產著優質的葡萄酒與橄欖油。

Wallace Lo

Lovely golden colour with lots of depth. Complex, with a nose of fresh apricot, mandarins, orange peel, and hazelnuts. On the palate the wine is creamy and round, concentrated with notes of honey, cooked celery, dried apricot, and pineapple with good mineral support. 可愛的金黃色澤,帶一定深度,複雜的鮮杏、柑橘、陳皮和榛 子的香氣。圓潤幼滑,集中帶蜂蜜、熟芹菜、乾杏桃、菠蘿和 礦物味道。

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$288

Gulfi Carjcanti Bianco 2oo9  87 2013

2018A

Region: Cerasuolo di Vittoria // Grape Variety: 95% Carricante, 5% Albanello  Jebsen Fine Wines // 3180 3424 // www.gulfi.it

Billy Yeung Medium intensity golden yellow colour. Clean, low intensity aroma of straw and citrus. Medium body with high acidity, refreshing citrus flavours and a sharp acidity. 中等強度的金黃色。清爽而低密度的稻草和柑橘香氣。中等酒體,酸度 高,整體帶清爽的柑橘口味和尖銳的酸度。

$219

Donnafugata Vigna di Gabri 2o11 87 2013

2016D

Region: Pantelleria // Grape Variety: Ansonica The Wine Gallery by ASC Fine Wines // 2526 2020 // www.donnafugata.it

JC Viens Lemon and gold highlights. Juicy fruit with a touch of lemon and curd. Silky and lively palate. Lemony finish with minerality. 檸檬色和金色。多汁的水果與檸檬和凝乳般淡淡的味道。如絲幼滑和活潑 的口感,收結帶礦物和檸檬味。

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Duca di Salaparuta Inzolia Colomba Platino 2o12 87 2013

045

$138

2015A

Region: Salaparuta // Grape Variety: Insolia Valdivia Ltd. // 2555 7431 // www.duca.it

Mabel Lai

Bright lemon colour. Heady aroma of fresh lime, pear, a hint of minerals and some elderflower. On the palate there is markedly fresh lime and a strong green fruit interwoven with some white flowers. Long finish and balanced. 明亮的檸檬色彩。新鮮石灰,梨,礦物質和一些接骨木花了一絲令人陶醉的香氣。在 口感上有明顯新鮮石灰和一些白色的花朵交織在一起的一個強烈的綠色水果。悠長的 餘味和平衡。

Cusumano Angimbe 2o11 $143

86 2014

2016A

Region: Alcamo // Grape Variety: 70% Insolia, 30% Chardonnay Montrose Fine Wines // 2555 8877 // www.cuscumano.it

Akihiko Nosaka

Golden yellow. On the nose, first impression is intense. Smells like golden apples and pear compote. After airation, rising tropical notes like pineapple, and even some minerality. On palate, attack is strong and alcohol apparent. But elegant acidity keeps balance. 金黃色。氣味上第一印象是強烈的,聞起來像帶金色的蘋果和梨子般的果香。輕搖後像 鳳梨,甚至有些礦物氣息散出。口感強勁,酒精明顯,優雅的酸度令整體保持平衡。

COS Ramì Inzolia-Grecanico Sicilia Bianco IGT 2oo9 $308 85 2013

2015D

Region: Vittoria // Grape Variety: 50% Insolia, 50% Grecanico Cottage Vineyards International Ltd. // 2395 1293 // www.cosvittoria.it

Zachary Yu Amber colour with rosy edges. Dried rose petals, tangerine peel, and pear on the nose. Pear, minerality, and silky tannins on the palate. Slight tannins to give a stronger structure. 琥珀色邊緣相當紅潤。乾玫瑰花瓣、陳皮和梨子香氣;亦帶梨子、礦物和柔滑的單寧口感。 輕微的單寧襯托著強烈的酒體結構。

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PANEL TASTING

$238

Valle dell’ Acate Zagra 2o11 86 2013

2017A

Region: C.da Bidini-Acate (RG) – Eastern Sicily // Grape Variety: Grillo Caliu // 2796 1686 // www.valledellacate.net

Zachary Yu Bright medium yellow lemon colour. White peaches, orange peel, yellow apple lime on the nose. Dry, medium intensity and acidity. Ripe yellow apple flavours with a round mouthfeel. 明亮的中等檸檬色。有著白桃、陳皮、黃色蘋果和青檸香。乾身,中等強度與酸度。帶成熟 的黃色蘋果和圓潤的口感風味。

Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali Bianco 2o11 86 2013

2015D

$145

Region: Contea di Sclafani // Grape Variety: Insolia, Grecanico, Catarratto  Summergate Ltd. // 2545 4100  // www.tascadalmerita.it

Hood Hon Pale lemon colour. Moderate aroma of ripe tropical fruits such as melon, star fruits, and green mango. There is a sense of sunshine jumping out of the glass. Concentrated exotic fruit flavours supported by reasonable acidity and a creamy body. 淡檸檬色。中等成熟的熱帶水果如哈密瓜、楊桃、青芒果的香氣。感覺就像陽光從酒 杯中淀放一樣,帶集中的異國水果香,酸度和奶油般柔滑的酒體。

$155

Principi di Butera Insolia di Sicilia 2o12 84 2013

2014D

Region: Butera // Grape Variety: Insolia Valdivia Ltd. // 2555 7431 // www.feudobutera.it

Ian Symonds Pale lemon, bright and clear. Nose is light, citrus, and full of stonefruits. Palate is crisp with a refreshing acidity and notes of grapefruit and lime. A short finish, but easy to drink. 淡淡的檸檬、明亮清晰。淡淡柑橘和充滿核果果香。口感清脆、酸度清爽,亦帶點點葡萄柚 和青檸香。收結較短,但相當容易入口。

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PANEL TASTING

g n i k r a Sp _

047

$108

Luna Y Sol Vino Spumante Brut 2o11 89 2013

2014D

Grape Variety: Nero d’Avola  ABC Wines Ltd. // 2368 4684 // www.lunasicana.it

Tersina Shieh Herbaceous, grassy nose. Refreshing palate with good detail. Suitable as an aperitif. 充滿草本植物氣息,清爽的口感,亦具有良好的細節。適合作為開胃酒。

Ro_ se

$195

Tenuta Terre Nere Etna Rosato 2011 86 2013

2014D

Region: Etna // Grape Variety: Rosato Wine Culture Ltd. // 2810 1186 // www.tenutaterrenere.com

Ian Symonds Bright clear, onion-skin, pale brown. Nose of light red fruits, strawberry, and sweet aromas. Medium-bodied with a good crisp acidity. 明亮清晰,洋蔥皮般的淺棕色。帶淡紅色水果、草莓和甜美的香味。中等酒 體,良好的清脆酸度。

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Editor’s Choices Sicily is always famous for its Nero D’Avola. Nevertheless, the diverse terroir could make a huge varieties of wines, like the Nerello Mascalese made in the cool-climate, high altitude area. The style of wine is very similar to Pinot Noir. Like the one from Pasopisciaro and Duca di Salaparuta, showing some hint of Burgundian wines. For Nero d’Avola, many producers are now moving from the heavy, over-ripened style to lighter, more elegant style, just like the Cerasuolo di Vittoria from COS and Gulfi NeroBaronj. White wines give me less surprise, but in good shape. I am really impressed by the value of these wine that is really worth to explore different varieties and wine in this region. 西西里的葡萄酒一向以Nero d’Avola較為人熟悉,但其實在一個terroir如此多變的酒區,還有很多未被重視的葡萄酒,例如以Nerello

Mascalese釀造的葡萄酒,在高山清涼氣候能釀出優雅清香的酒釀,風格很像Pinot Noir,例如Passopisciaro及Duca di Salaparuta的 酒款,有著勃艮第的影子。Nero d’Avola葡萄酒當中,不少已開始擺脫舊有過於成熟厚重的風格,改為以優雅、細緻為目標。COS的

Cerasuolo di Vittoria及Gulfi NeroBaronj便是當中的代表。白酒方面,比起紅酒沒那麼多驚喜,但以價論酒,大部分的西西里葡萄酒絕 對是超值的,也是值得去發掘探索的地區。

Red紅葡萄酒: Passopisciaro IGT 2007 It’s like a Burgundy, with elegant and subtle fruit character and great nose after breathing. 十足十一瓶勃艮第,帶優雅而內斂的果香,在透氣十足的時候散發著誘人的幽香。 COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG 2007 The blend with Frappato grape make the rustic and big Nero D’Avola more balanced, it comes with great intensity and richness, and soft finishing showing the finesse. 可能因為加入了Frappato葡萄,使原本較粗野的Nero D’Avola更平衡,濃郁飽滿,收結柔和優雅。 White Wine 白葡萄酒: Gulfi Carjcanti Bianco 2009 Lively mineral and acidity make this aromatic white wine much more balancing. 活潑的礦物加上酸度使這款香氣突出的白葡萄酒更顯平衡。

Conclusion Sicily has grown in leaps and bounds during the past two decades and is rightfully considered the most exciting wine region in Italy today. Winemakers are taking a step back from using international varieties, and visionary star wineries such as Arianna Occhipinti, COS, Azienda Gulfi, Valle della’Acate, and Tenuta delle Terre Nere, who all practice organic agriculture and lowintervention winemaking. The high quality across the board also showed that even though Sicily only has one DOCG in Cerasuolo di Vittoria, excellent wines are made all across the region. Etna in particular is a focal point for many seeking out the wines of Sicily. Our top red wine deservedly came from COS, one of the early super stars of Sicily, demonstrating why Cerasuolo di Vittoria is indeed so highly regarded. Pure, complex, and exciting, it was unanimously the most representative of this lovely terroir with 100% local varieties. The top white wine on the other hand, Valle della’Acate Bidis 2010, was Inzolia with a touch of Chardonnay, showing how international varieties can help balance the natural appeal of a local favourite. 西西里在過去二十年來一直不斷地發展、成熟,在今日的意大利各酒區之中已經是最令人興奮的其中之一。釀酒師都開始倒過 來使用非國際性品種,一些出名的酒莊如Arianna Occhipinti、COS、Azienda Gulfi、Valle della’Acate和Tenuta delle Terre Nere等都 以有機種植的葡萄、而且使用低干預形式來釀酒。另外,縱使西西里只有一個DOCG產酒區Cerasuolo di Vittoria,但普遍各地區 的酒質都相當不錯,尤其是Etna更加是西西里酒區的一顆明日之星。 我們是次得分最高的紅酒來自COS,西西里最早成立的酒莊之一,呈現出典型Cerasuolo di Vittoria的優秀特質:純淨、複雜、而 且相當令人興奮,毫無疑問,這絕對是100%本地品種的當地最佳典範。另外得分最高的白酒則是來自Valle della’ Acate Bidis的 2010年酒款,使用Inzolia加入少許Chardonnay釀製,呈現出國際品種平衡出原生品種的味道和美態。

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The World of

Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we discuss two of the most successful wineries of Australia and Chile respectively. First we meet cult Chilean winery Almaviva, which is the joint venture project of Vina Concha y Toro and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Then we cross the world to Australia, as Neil McGuigan of McGuigan Wines, one of Australia’s most successful brands, recently stopped by Hong Kong. 每期的葡萄酒世界我們都走遍世界各地,發掘精彩的酒釀及故事跟大家分享。 今期我們走到兩間成功的莊園,分別位於澳洲及智利。首先我們遇上智利的精品 酒莊Almaviva,是由當地的領袖Vina Concha y Toro及法國的Baron Philippe de

Rothschild一手打造。然後還有來自澳洲的McGuigan Wines,由莊主之一的Neil McGuigan剛到香港,跟我們分享酒莊的故事。

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The World of

Wines

The Heights of Almaviva 智利葡萄酒極致 English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Eddie Chui Images: Alvin Luk

The issue for any ambitious winery in the New World has always

那些充滿野心及實力的新世界酒莊所面對的最大挑戰,必定是如何在世界的

been about how ones could establish themselves on an international

大舞台上確立自己的地位,尤其要與舊世界的老字號比拼。在智利的Maipo

stage and really compete against the most hallowed of Old World

Valley ,雖然老牌的Concha y Toro 在這片土地經驗豐富,釀造出不少讓人

wineries. In Chile’s Maipo Valley, where wineries like Concha y Toro

驚嘆的Cabernet Sauvignon 酒釀,但直到今時今日,大家心目中的標準仍

have long specialized in Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the ultimate

是來自波爾多左岸的列級酒莊,例如Château Mouton-Rothschild 。

benchmark was always the elite classified-estates of the Left Bank in Bordeaux, such as Château Mouton-Rothschild.

Concha y Toro 通常都釀造出由高階至入門的兩極化酒款,例如旗艦級酒

Concha y Toro makes excellent wines at every end of the spectrum,

Alto 葡萄園的果實釀造,被譽為智利葡萄酒中代表性酒款之一。但為了走

款 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon ,只採用從Maipo 最好的Puente

but have earned a tremendous reputation for their flagship wines such

出智利,Concha y Toro 的主人很有見地,看到 Robert Mondavi 在Napa

as Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, which is made exclusively out of

Valley 跟 Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA 擁有的 Château Mouton-

grapes in the Puente Alto vineyards of the Maipo and can be considered

Rothschild 在80 年代合作建造的Opus One 酒莊在世界上取得很好的成績,

one of the first iconic wines of Chile. But taking note from history, the

也希望以同樣方法讓自己的酒走上世界級的葡萄酒舞台上。

owners of Concha y Toro observed how Robert Mondavi’s Napa Valley partnership with Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA of Château Mouton-

於是 Concha y Toro 決定跟Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA 合作,興

Rothschild in the 80’s led to their subsequent winery, Opus One,

建一所新的酒莊: Almaviva ,並注入 60 公頃位於 Puente Alto 的頂級葡萄

becoming one of the most recognizable names in the world.

園(全是昔日 Don Melchor 的莊園)。除此之外,還請了前 Opus One 及

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053

The World of

Wines In the tradition of such Grand Vin estates, Concha y Toro decided to form a joint venture with Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA to make a single premium wine at a single winery—Almaviva—and contributed 60 hectares of their best land in Puente Alto (all taken from Don Melchor plots). They combined the incredible terroir of Chile with French winemaking, as Patrick León, former winemaker of Opus One and Mouton-Rothschild, assumed the helm. Puente Alto rests primly at the base of the Andes Mountains, where cool winds sweep down year after year and nurture the country’s most pristine examples of Cabernet Sauvignon. Nestled by these mountains and blessed with a gentle Mediterranean climate, the Puente Alto vineyards have the longest diurnal range of any vineyard in the Maipo, meaning that the temperature between day and night is greater, giving freshness and complexity to the wine and distinguishing these plots from the rest of the vineyards in the Valley, which are further away from the Andes. For Almaviva, the difference can be as great as 2-3°C—especially significant considering that during the day, the valley can be as hot as 30°C, while dropping to 5°C at night. This leads to a long ripening period which is just perfect for the Cabernet Sauvignon grape to reach ideal maturity. Mouton-Rothschild的釀酒師Patrick Leon,以法國的釀造方式展現這卓越的 Last month we had an mini-vertical tasting with Almaviva’s

智利terroir。Puente Alto在安第斯山腳下,受著由四周包圍著的山坡上往下吹

Commercial Director Juan Carlos Pagola, who brought us four

的清涼空氣影響,被譽為智利最好的Cabernet Sauvignon都在此誕生。

vintages to try—1997, 2003, 2007, and 2010. Four vintages that according to Juan, “are considered to be the best vintages in Chile

由群山環抱,加上地中海的氣候,Puente  Alto 葡萄園在Maipo 地區當中擁

over the last 30 years.”

有最大的日夜溫差,這讓葡萄的鮮美香味更加出眾,也能讓這裡的葡萄酒味 道更加複雜。而 Almaviva 所擁有的這片葡萄園,也位於離安第斯山脈更遠

It was particularly interesting to observe the differences from

的地方。相較下可以有二至三度的分別,由日間最高的 30°C ,降至晚上的

2005 onwards, when Juan told us that the winery made two huge

5°C 。這令葡萄有較長的時間可以熟成,對Cabernet Sauvignon 來說,要

changes. First, Almaviva started using heat mapping to find out

完美地成熟就特別有利。

which microclimates ripened earlier, to ensure they picked each grape at its optimum ripeness. This was evidenced in the ripeness

上月我們跟Almaviva 的業務總監Juan Carlos Pagola 一起品嚐四個年份的

of the tannins, which were more well-rounded and lush in 2007 and

酒釀,包括:1997 、2003 、2007 及2010 。Juan 形容這四個年份是智利過

2010. Even though vintage wise 1997 was close to 2007 as there

去30 年來的公認的最佳年份。

was a hot spring and summer in both years, the 2007 will grow up to be a much different wine than the elegant and earthy 1997, which

品試當中,Juan也提及酒莊在2005年後酒莊在兩方面的轉變。首先,他們開

has aged gently into a restrained but classic wine. The 2003 was

始用先進的科技如Heat Mapping去勘探葡萄園不同的區塊,了解那一區塊會

the least ready of all the wines, and seemed un-integrated, with

較早成熟,以安排在最適當的時候採收葡萄。在2007及2010年的酒釀中我們

lots of oak character and fruit; however it isn’t any surprise that

可以感受到那更加圓潤飽滿的單寧,特別柔和。即使如此,1997的Almaviva

certain vintages seemed to have an identity crisis as the winery is

也很接近 2007 ,因為當年氣候較暖,葡萄成熟得較好的緣故,但我們相信

only 17 years old and the winemakers were still learning the land a

2007會發展成更內斂而經典的酒款,不像現在的1997般偏向優雅而帶泥土的

decade ago.

氣息。面2003年的酒現在還很緊緻收斂,未準備好的樣子,各樣木桶及果香 很豐富,但還未融合好。畢竟,酒莊還屬於很年青,只有17年的光陰,釀酒

The “heart of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon”, with most Almaviva

師還未能完全摸索好葡萄園的特性呢,不可能每年都十全十美呢。

vintages composed of 65-75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20-30% Carmenere, and 2-8% Cabernet Franc. Merlot was introduced in 2006

Almaviva 的靈魂當然是 Cabernet Sauvignon ,每個年份的酒釀都有 65 至

and has 1-2% per vintage now, and Petit Verdot was just added in

75%的Cabernet Sauvignon,20至30%的Carmenere及2至8%的Cabernet

2010. Though the winery isn’t 100% organic, around 30-40% of their

Franc 。 Merlot 是在 2006 年才開始使用,約 1 至 2% ,而 Petit Verdot 更是在

vineyards are organic now, and they plan to gain certification within a

2010年才開始加進酒內。酒莊還在不斷變更,現在有大約30至40%的葡萄園

few years. At the moment, they’ve already eliminated herbicides and

是以有機耕作,將慢慢擴展至整片莊園,現在已停止使用所有的除草劑及除蟲

insecticides with sustainability in mind, proving that though they are still

劑,實行可持續的耕作,而 Almaviva還算是年青,有這樣的好開始,相信將

young, Almaviva is here for the future.

來必定有一番作為。

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054

The World of

Wines

McGuigan Wines – Australia’s Darling 澳 洲 之 星

English Text: Ian Wong Translation: Eddie Chui

The story of Australia’s wine boom is familiar to wine lovers from across the world, and few embody the stratospheric rise better than McGuigan Wines, who are now one of the largest and most awarded wineries on the global stage. Established in 1992 by iconic Australian winemaker Brian McGuigan, McGuigan Wines is now under the watchful eye multi-award winning Chief Winemaker Neil McGuigan. 全球的葡萄酒迷都對澳洲葡萄酒的急速興起絕對不會陌生。而當中McGuigan Wines 也隨著這股旋風而擴大,現已成為澳洲最大及獲獎最多的 酒莊集團之一。於1992由澳洲著名釀酒師Brian McGuigan創辦,現在由另一位另具天份,獲獎無數的首席釀酒師Neil McGuigan掌舵。

Cru met Neil McGuigan, reigning International Wine & Spirits Competition

較早前我們碰上剛獲得 IWSC International Winemaker of the Year ,現

International Winemaker of the Year and Chief Winemaker of McGuigan

任 CEO 及首席釀酒師的 Neil McGuigan ,跟我們講述一下酒莊的歷史及發

Wines in Hong Kong last month, who gave us a brief recap of the

展。經過四代相傳, McGuigan 家族對澳洲葡萄酒的熱情從沒減退。而家

company’s history. For four generations, the McGuigan family have followed

族的葡萄酒事業可追溯至他那位於 1869 年生於 Hunter Valley 的祖父 Owen

their passion for Australian wine. The McGuigan love affair with winemaking

McGuigan。他是McGuigan家中首位踏足葡萄園工作,並把對葡萄酒的熱情

began with Owen McGuigan who was born in Australia’s Hunter Valley

傾注到家族的命脈當中,直到今天。

in 1869. He was the first McGuigan to venture into this exciting new endeavour; working in the vineyards not only became his lifeblood, but also

Owen的兒子Perc更加成為Hunter Valley的傳奇釀酒師。在區內釀酒超過30

the passion of the McGuigan family.

年,協助把這產區打做成當今澳洲葡萄酒界中最具名氣的產區之一。 Perc的 兒子,Brian McGuigan更是受到父親及祖父Owen的薰陶,續承了作為偉大

Owen’s son Perc then became a legendary figure in the Hunter Valley. One of

釀酒師的技藝,加上靈活的生意頭腦,於1992年創立McGuigan Wines這品

the key winemakers of his time, he was instrumental in shaping the regions

牌。時至今日,Brian跟弟弟Neil一同領導著McGuigan Wines,他們的目標

prominence and popularity for over 30 vintages. Brian McGuigan, inspired

是釀造價格合理的頂級葡萄酒,能照顧不同飲家的需要。

by the winemaking heritage of both his father Perc and grandfather Owen, utilised his skills as a winemaker, viticulturalist, marketeer, to establish the

雖然擁有龐大的產品線,包括紅、白葡萄酒;氣泡酒及加烈酒在全球行銷,

McGuigan Wines brand in 1992. Today, with Brian’s younger brother Neil at

但他們的思路十分清晰, Neil 解釋道所謂的「 bridge wines 」構想,讓剛開

the helm McGuigan Wines is committed as ever to producing outstanding

始喝酒的人容易接受,然後再由入門級別的酒進階至高級酒款,從而嘗試

wines at prices that reflect excellent value for money.

不同系列、不同級數的酒釀。 Neil 帶領我們品嚐了不少中階至高階的酒款,

With an extensive portfolio of award-winning wines available across the

Shiraz,酒身非常豐厚;還有來自Adelaide Hills的Expressions系列,當中的

world, Neil explained his concept of having “bridge wines” between his

Sauvignon Blanc以集中的西柚果香,帶來鮮明的印象。

當中包括McGuigan的旗艦紅酒—來自Langhorne Creek酒區的Handmade

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055

The World of

Wines

Neil McGuigan

more price accessible ranges and the icon wines in the portfolio - such as the richly dense Hand Made Shiraz from the Langhorne Creek region - allowing the consumer to explore different styles, regions and varieties within the brand . We tried several of them such as the strikingly packaged Expressions range which includes, amongst others, a charming grapefruit focused Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc and also the premium and fullbodied Handmade Shiraz from Langhorne Creek region. 但 Neil 說道:「我們也要釀造傳統的酒款,讓大家知道我們的釀酒造藝。」

Neil commented “We have to make classic wines to create an aura of

他們確實是相當重視不同的市場及定位的需要。他們的酒釀更慢慢成為澳洲

quality,” showing his dedication to over delivering in every wine he makes.

本土最受歡迎的葡萄酒。

Over time his wines have become some of the most well-loved in Australia. 當我們在細味他們的Sauvignon Blanc、Chardonnay及Pinot Grigio時,來自

While we enjoyed their Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio, it

Hunter Valley的陳年Semillon 2005卻把我們的味蕾完全轉移。McGuigan很

is their aged Semillon 2005 from Hunter Valley that has garnered the most

難得地每年把不少的Semillon酒釀存起,等到她們真正成熟的時候才推出市面

attention. McGuigan admirably keeps a large selection of their Semillon

上。Neil解釋道:「我們希望大家能夠品嚐到澳洲葡萄酒最好的一面。」款已

in the cellars, releasing them only when mature. “We want people to be

有八年的酒釀,仍然十分年青,就算再陳年多五至七年,讓酒的複雜度進一

excited about Australian wines,” insisted Neil. For an eight-year old wine, it

步提升。

was young and can easily age for 5-7 more years to gain more complexity. Neil直言他最想釀造的酒是那些隨時可愉快享用的酒款。他聰明地在選擇酵母 Neil isn’t afraid to admit that he makes wines to enjoy. He uses carefully

及原木時,以讓酒散發最多的香味,及平易近人為目標。他相信葡萄酒是用來

selected yeasts and rootstocks to get the most flavour of his wines, and

佐膳的,澳洲以飲食聞名,因此這個國家的葡萄酒也應以配搭食物為主。在澳

is committed to “making wine approachable for people.” He believes

洲酒界競爭如此激烈,McGuigan能取得那麼多支持並不是單憑運氣的,他們

that wine should be with food, and as a food-loving nation, Australia has

的McGuigan Black Label Red紅葡萄酒,能成為本土最受歡迎的酒釀是實力

responded with an immensely favourable vote of confidence. McGuigan

的證明。

has the honour of having the best-selling red wine in Australia – McGuigan Black Label Red - which is remarkable considering their competition.

作為McGuigan葡萄酒的香港獨家代理,歐亞洋酒引入了多個系列,由最大眾 化的Signature系列,到性格鮮明的Bin系列及Shortlist系列都一應俱全,務求

As the exclusive wine distributor of McGuigan, Asia Euro Wines & Spirits

將這個澳洲葡萄酒的成功故事帶到香港。

has brought several wine ranges to Hong Kong – from the very popular Signature Series to the Bin and Shortlist Series with unique characters which continues this Australian Success story.

WOW_Mcguigan.indd 2

Enquiry: Asia Euro Wines & Spirits (HK) Ltd. // Tel: 3595 0511

4/9/13 2:18 PM


056

Cru Leader

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057

Cru Leader

The Branaire Style 周伯「風」

Text: Eddie Chui Special Thanks: Wilson Kwok @ W’s Entrecôte

In Hong Kong, we have some interesting nickname for many of the fine wines especially Bordeaux wines which are popular in the last few decades. Like the “Lee Pang” for Le Pin, “Mao Zedong” for Moët & Chandon, “Mo Tong”for Mouton, “Lan Chi Pat”for Lynch Bages, etc. Another remarkable nickname will be the “Zhou Botong”, a character in the famous novel by Mr. Jin Yong, for the classified growth in St. Julien, Château Branaire-Ducru. 年長一輩的酒迷很喜歡為不同的酒莊起個有趣的別名,例如「李鵬」、「毛澤東」、「武當」、「靚次伯」等等。而當中不得不提的 當然是波爾多St. Julien的列級酒莊Branaire-Ducru,她的別名便是在《射鵰英雄傳》中,人稱老頑童的「周伯通」。

Affinity to wine Earlier I met Mr. Patrick Maroteaux, the owner of Château BranaireDucru in a tasting dinner at W’s Entrecôte. We had a vertical tasting of 14 vintages to understand their style. Pratick brought Branaire-Ducru in 1988 which is a magnificent experience he would describe. His family, though locating in Champagne, is not related to the wine industry at all. His connection with wine started when he started working in Paris, where he was surrounded by wine dinners and tasting events. He just fell

anaire in love with wine and decided to devote his career in wine. In 1986, he

started traveling to Bordeaux to learn about the industry and how to run

a château, at the same time looking for estate to acquire. It is not easy to buy a classified growth in Bordeaux as there are only 61 grand cru in the left bank. Finally in 1988, he took the opportunity to buy this fourth growth

chateau in St. Julien in less than a week time. He then started with 1 to

因酒結緣

2 days every week in Bordeaux, while spending most of his other time in

早前參加了在 W’s  Entrecôte 法式牛扒屋的垂直試飲晚宴,在莊主 Patrick

Paris. After 10 years, he fully devoted himself to the Château, moved to live

Maroteaux帶領下,總共品嚐了十四個不同年份的「周伯通」,這樣的垂直試

there and concentrate on the wine business. Both the business and quality

飲最能了解酒莊的風格。Patrick在1988年買入Branaire-Ducru,他形容這是

started to grow very well. He mentioned, “in the beginning, our market is

一次奇妙之旅:生於香檳區的他,家族一向跟葡萄酒扯不上任何關係,而他自

mainly local with 90% of our sales; but now 80% of our business is from

己卻是因為年青時在巴黎工作期間,經常需要應酬而開始接觸葡萄酒。往後開

the oversea markets.” They tried to reduce their production by one third in

始愛上葡萄酒的他決定投身酒莊事業。於1986年開始,他經常跑到波爾多,

order to increase the quality. Nowadays, even the second wine, Duluc de

了解酒莊及行業的運作,同時也在不斷物識合心水的酒莊。要知道在波爾多的

Branaire-Ducru, is on par with gran vins from other châteaux. And the man

列級莊園只有61間,即使有錢也不是可以隨心買下擁有的,直到1988年,他

behind, chef winemaker Jean-Dominique Videau and his team always try

把握機會,花了一星期的磋商便決定買入位於St. Julien的這所四級酒莊。他

to build up a consistent house style for Branaire, even in average vintages.

在剛購入的時候,每星期只花一、兩天的時間飛到波爾多打理酒莊,其餘的時

“We want to make some balanced wine which shows our style by using

間都在巴黎管理其他生意。經過十年後,有感可以把酒莊經營得更好,於是便

less new oak barrels. We would like a bottle of Branaire to be shared by 2

放下巴黎的生意,搬到波爾多,全心全意經營酒莊,不論酒質還是生意也隨即

people and with a magnum bottle to be finished by 3!” From this vertical

蒸蒸日上。他提及:「剛開始的時候,酒莊的九成生意都集中在法國本土,現

tasting, we agree on this Branaire style when tasting the wines from the

在卻剛好相反,有超過八成的生意是來自出口到海外市場的。」而酒莊為了提

last 3 decades, going through some average vintages and great vintages.

高質量,更把產量減少三份之一,就算是所謂的副牌酒,Duluc de Branaire-

Ducru,品質或陳年潛力絕對不會讓其他列級酒莊的正牌酒比下去,這當然有

Vintage Difference

賴釀酒師Jean-Dominique Videau及其團隊的努力,不論所為普通或偉大的年

We generally classify vintages into average, good and great ones. But

份,都能釀造出具Branaire風格的葡萄酒。「我們的想法是釀造出平衡、能表

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058

Cru Leader

this might not apply to every single estate, we have some good wines

現酒莊風格的葡萄酒,盡量減少使用全新橡木桶,平衡著酒體,讓兩個人可以

coming from a few châteaux during the average vintages. We have tasted

輕鬆喝掉一瓶酒,三個人更應該可以幹掉一瓶Magnum呢。」從這次的垂直試

with Patrick blindly the 2010, 2009, 2007, 2002, 2001, 1999, 1998, 1996,

飲當中我們都能體會到這「周伯通」風格,同時品嚐著不同的年份,就像在時

1995, 1990 and 1988. During the dinner, we also tasted 2005, 2003 and

光隧道中遊走,跨越十多二十個寒暑。

2000 which are from glorious vintages, together with Duluc 2006 and 1996 to see her evolution over 10 years. The vintages 2001 and 1999, which are

穿越時空

regarded as weak year, show great complexity and intensity, not as watery

我們喜歡把波爾多的各個年份概括地分類為平庸、優秀及偉大的年份,但當

or thin as we might consider. The Duluc pair is even more interesting, both

談論到個別酒莊時,實在不要太小看被認為是平庸年份的酒釀。在當天的品鑑

the 2006 and 1996 shows exceptional aging potential after more than 10

中,Patrick跟我們以蒙瓶方式試飲了2010、2009、2007、2002、2001、

years. We also tasted the newly release of 2009 and 2010, which is so

1999、1998、1996、1995、1990、1988,然後在晚宴上也品嚐了2005、

approachable. Patrick also commented on these new great vintages, “we

2003及2000的Branaire-Ducru酒款,也嚐了 2006 及 1996 的副牌 Duluc 。

always try to make wine that is pleasant to drink early years after years. I

當中有些被譽為普通年份的 2001 或 1999 都表現出色,沒有一般人認為的

believe that great vintages could taste nice and pleasant when young, at

淡薄,欠缺酒體或單調無味的感覺。更有趣的是 2006 及 1996 的 Duluc ,

the same time having great aging potential. It is not contradicting if a wine

副牌酒竟有如此豐厚的酒體及十多年的陳年能力,十分難得。至於2009 及

could age but taste pleasant when young. We would like to make this

2010年的新酒,也能有如此平易近人的口感,實在不賴,Patrick對近年這

kind of wine for a long time. Someone might worry about their potential,

些偉大年份的酒釀如此早便平易近人,有這樣的想法:「我們一向都是保

but I have no doubt that these vintages would age after 30 or 50 years,

持著能讓人愉快品嚐的方向釀酒,我們不是單在偉大的年份才釀造可以陳

let see how these wines becomes 50 years later.” For wine lovers, price

年的美酒,而且可以陳年跟年青時便美味可口並沒有什麼矛盾,技術許可

is always a concern especially in recent years. Branaire-Ducru is always

的話我們早就在以前釀造這種風格的葡萄酒,有人可能會懷疑這些酒的潛

good in value, especially during En Primeur, it costs usually less then half

力,那就讓我們三十,甚至五十年後再回來看看結果吧。但我相信這些酒

the market price. According to Patrick, their en Primeur offers always sold

的壽命絕對不會低於五十年。」對於酒迷,另一樣重要的考慮當然是價格

out within a few hours after release!

吧,「周伯通」一向是物值高的列級酒款,尤其是在En Primeur時訂講的 話更會比平常便宜超過一半,值得留意。過去幾年根據 Patrick 憶述,他們

At the end of the dinner, Wilson Kwok, the owner of the restaurant who

的En Primeur往往在推出後數小時便售罄!

is also a pronounced writer, educator, pour a bottle of Château d’Yquem 1988, to celebrate his good friend Patrick for purchasing the Château

最後餐廳主人兼葡萄酒作家、導師 Wilson Kwok更送上 Château d’Yquem

Branaire-Ducru in 1988. For me, the 1996 Duluc and Branaire-Ducru

1988,作為慶祝老朋友Patrick當年收購了「周伯通」,在美酒佳餚後,成為

made the perfect pairs to show the greatness of this St. Julien château.

整晚完美的收結。從最後的一對同一年份的Duluc副牌及Branaire-Ducru正牌

Let us toast for works by Patrick and Mr. Jin Yong, who named Branaire-

1996中,我在剎那感到分數所不能形容的完滿。在讚賞Patrick在周伯通至今所

Ducru with a Chinese name from his famous novel.

付出的努力而取得成果的同時,也為替他起了這有趣別名的金庸先生乾杯。

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YO U T H

060

YOUTH PA L AT E

PA L AT E

Wines for the Future 葡萄酒新世代 English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo & Eddie Chui // Images: Alvin Luk

Address: Shop LG02, iSQUARE 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel:

(852) 2577 0889

Email:

tst@enoteca.com.hk

Business Monday – Friday, Sunday Hours: 12:00 a.m to 10:00 p.m

Saturday 11:00 a.m – 10:00 p.m

地址:

iSQUARE 國際廣場 LG-02 號舖

電話:

(852) 2577 0889

香港九龍尖沙咀彌敦道63號

營業時間: 星期一至五及日 12:00-22:00 星期六 11:00-22:00

Youth Palate.indd 1

It has always been a mystery for wine

對於各酒行、酒莊和酒商來說,他們最

shops, wineries, and merchants to know

希望知道的,可以說是新生代的酒迷、大

what the wine lovers of tomorrow—

學生等究竟喜歡怎樣的酒,正在喝著甚麼

university  students  and  young

酒,希望窺探他們的口味之餘,更希望

enthusiasts—are drinking now. And

的,是他們心目中的酒風格如何、味道質

not only what they are drinking, but

感如何。

what they look for in a bottle of wine, or what style they prefer.

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About ENOTECA Enoteca is by far one of our favourite shops in Tsim Sha Tsui due to the great convenience of its location in iSquare, as well as the broad selection of its wines. Alongside a great staple of premium wines in great vintages and sizes, the prices are very reasonable as well. Moreover, they have a selected focus on some very well balanced wines, and we’d say their selection is thoughtful and very enjoyable. The staff here are also extremely knowledgeable and helpful, and are led by Chris, their young Store Manager. 店舖介紹 位於尖沙咀的 Enoteca是我們最喜歡的其中一間酒窖,座落於方便至極的國際廣場,酒釀的 種類選擇多不勝數。除了一系列的年份高端酒款和大瓶裝外,店中亦有售賣一些價錢實惠的 中價酒款,雖然價錢較低,但這些酒款卻都擁有絕佳的平衡,相當不錯。在年輕的店舖經理

Chris帶領下,店中的工作人員的酒釀知識豐富,而且相當樂於協助客人,選擇適合的酒款。

Cru Magazine has introduced a new feature called Youth Palate in which we’ll invite a group of students every month to give us their opinions and remarks on a selection of assorted wines. This month we have the impressive HKU Space wine team, which won the Hong Kong finals of the prestigious The Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, earning them the right to represent our city in the competition, which is hosted in Bordeaux every year. This year, the HKU SPACE performed well in the competition, although they ultimately lost out the grand prize. Vintec is also working closely with us to sponsor these students and to train up a group of new generation of local wine connoisseurs. Led by coach and wine educator Chris So, the HKU Space team met us at wine shop Enoteca in Tsim Sha Tsui’s iSquare mall to try out six great wines. We judged them a little differently from our Shop Manager 店長 Chris Chau Chris has worked in Enoteca for 2 years, a Burgundian lover. 在 Enoteca 工 作 兩 年 , 熱 愛 葡 萄 酒,尤其喜愛勃艮第酒釀。

usual panel tasting, and isolated the intensity of aroma, intensity of flavour, length of the finish, and the acidity as the key aspects to how youths enjoy wine. 《釀‧生活》由今期開始,將會發展名為 Youth Palate的專欄,每個月我們都會邀請幾位學生,為 我們選出的酒款發表意見。今期我們請來了來自香港大學校專業進修學院葡萄酒學會的幾位得獎 學生, Left Bank Bordeaux Cup 2013的香港區冠軍與我們一起品試各個酒款。而 Vintec酒櫃也與 我們緊緊合作,連續三年贊助這班酒壇的接班人,為香港爭光。 在葡萄酒導師 Chris So的帶領下,香港大學葡萄酒學會的品酒隊伍日前便來到位於尖沙咀中心地 帶國際廣場的 Enoteca,逐一品試六款酒釀。我們這次的品評跟平時每月一次的 Panel Tasting有少 許分別,劃分為幾個範疇:香氣、味道和收結,以及影響酒質最主要的酸度,看看新一代對這些 酒的評語。

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Magellan Chardonnay 2o12

Sileni Estate ‘Estate Selection’ The Lodge Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2011

Montevertine IGT Toscana 2oo9

France // Languedoc

New Zealand // Hawke’s Bay

Italy // Tuscany

$180

Aroma 香氣: Flavour 味道: Finish 收結: Acidity 酸度:

$160

$500

Aroma 香氣:

Aroma 香氣:

Flavour 味道:

Flavour 味道:

Finish 收結:

Finish 收結:

Acidity 酸度:

Acidity 酸度:

Louisa Li

Frankie Tsoi

Jacky Loo

Lemon colour, citrus fruit, stone fruit,

Crisp lime and lemon aromas. Hint

Strong red fruit based aromas and

apricot on the nose. Complex palate

of oak with a refreshing acidity and

palate. Low tannins with a relatively

with crisp notes of raisins, white

minerality.

high acidity. Fresh and easy drinking.

清脆的青檸和檸檬香,帶一點點橡木和清新

強烈的紅果氣息和味道。少許單寧帶有強烈

的酸度和礦物。

的酸度。清新易入口。

flowers, peaches, and a hint of honey. Lively acidity, refreshing crisp finish. 檸檬黃色,帶柑橘、核果和杏桃的香氣。口 感複雜帶有葡萄乾、白花、桃子和一點點蜜 糖。酸度活潑,收結清爽。

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Castello di Ama Chianti Classico “AMA” 2o1o Italy // Chianti

$290

PA L AT E

Grant Burge The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2oo9

063

Domaine de Villemajou 2o1o

Australia // Barossa Valley

France // Corbieres

$500

$180

Aroma 香氣:

Aroma 香氣:

Aroma 香氣:

Flavour 味道:

Flavour 味道:

Flavour 味道:

Finish 收結:

Finish 收結:

Finish 收結:

Acidity 酸度:

Acidity 酸度:

Acidity 酸度:

Louisa Li

Joy Wong

Chris So

Ruby colour, spice, herbs, cedar, and

Perfume, violet, berry, ripe raspbery,

Ripe, fruity, and floral aromas. Sweet

meat aroma. Medium-tannins, plum

blackberries, and caramel with silky

oak, spices, blueberries, and plums on

and blackberries on the palate with a

tannins and a sweet finish.

the palate.

香水般的香氣,紫羅蘭、成熟的野莓和焦糖

成熟、帶果香和花香。甜甜的橡木、香料、

香,如絲幼滑的單寧和甜美的收結。

藍莓和酸莓味道。

lively acidity. 紅寶石色、香料、香草、雪松和肉香。中等 單寧、酸莓和黑加侖子的味道,亦帶活潑的 酸度。

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Taster Profiles

Louisa Li Louisa is a wine lover who has a great passion for wine and is studying the WSET Level 3 course. She is one of the final team members representing universities of Hong Kong to participate in the 2013 Left Bank Bordeaux Cup held in France. Louisa是一個葡萄酒愛好者,現修讀WSET課程並對葡萄酒有濃厚的興趣。她曾以大專隊身份代表香港 遠赴法國參加2013年學界波爾多左岸杯決賽。

Joy Wong Like many people, Joy started drinking wine for social reasons. It was last year that she had her very first wine course where she fell in love with wine. Since then she has completed the WSET Level III, and planned for further study. Joy最初飲葡萄酒都是為了交際原因。直至去年我參加人生第一個葡萄酒課程,就愛上了葡萄酒。現在 已完成WSET課程,亦考慮繼續深誥。

Jacky Loo The best way to describe Jacky as a wine lover would be to describe him as a sweet wine with botrytis. He is interested in the diversity of wine, as well as the history behind each wine. To understand wine more deeply, he is studying WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Level 3. 熱愛與朋友享受杯中物,尤其各式各樣的貴腐甜酒,正是形容Jacky自己。他一直對酒的千變萬化感好 奇,所以深入學習有關酒的知識,正攻讀葡萄酒課程。

Frankie Tsoi Due to an accidental encounter, Frankie set himself on a wine journey of no return. He keeps searching for where his heart really belongs in the sea of wines, and through tasting different wines, he explores and understand this world. Frankie因一次偶遇,從此踏上酒途這條不歸路。在廣闊的酒海中尋找心中所屬。透過品試不同的葡萄 酒去探索和認識世界。

Chris So Certified WSET wine educator, wine judge, consultant. He established Winelist.hk platform to share the fun and knowledge of wine appreciation. He is now studying Master of Wine and is the president of HKU SPACE Wine Alumni Association. 英國WSET認可導師、葡萄酒評審、顧問及培訓活動策劃人。他創辦了WINELIST.HK資訊平台,藉 以與眾分享品酒知識和樂趣。Chris正修讀Master of Wine課程,也是HKU SPACE Wine Alumni

Association的主席。

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Comment Editor’s Editor’s Comment During the tasting we challenged our students to a blind tasting of the six wines, with many of the team members excelling in this difficult challenge. The selected wines are not exactly always the most common choices for younger people to drink, as wines from Corbières like Domaine de Villemajou 2010 and the Languedoc like Magellan Chardonnay 2012 are relatively unknown. But they were nonetheless well appreciated, alongside more common household names like our Chianti, Barossa Ian Wong

Valley GSM, and New Zealand Chardonnay. 品評的時候,我們採取蒙瓶試飲的方式,大家都很喜歡這個經驗,也在嘗試猜想是什麼品種的葡萄酒。而今次 由酒窖推薦的酒款,也不是一般年輕人或初學葡萄酒的人士會選擇的類型,例如來自 Corbières 的 Domaine de

Villemajou 2010 紅葡萄酒及來自 Languedoc 的 Magellan Chardonnay 2012 白葡萄酒,都是較少見的類型。 但大家對這些葡萄酒都很欣賞,當然少不了常見的 Chianti 、 Barossa 的 GSM 及新西蘭的 Chardonnay 。

Vintec Allure Series With good selection of wines, you will need to store them properly. The Vintec Allure Series introduces two models, the V150SG2EAL which stores 90 bottles and the V190SG2EAL, which stores 120 bottles. Both are equipped with essential features such as double layered glass doors, monitor alarms, child locks, and security thermostats. To ensure that owners can check the constant temperature, there is a clear LED digital display as well that controls the top and bottom halves of the fridge for white and red wines. Wooden shelves and the classic sleek black of most Vintec fridges maintains a consistent refined look, and the inside of both fridges feature carbon filters, crystal white LED lights, and an integrated lock. Whereas the 90 bottle fridge has five wooden shelves, the 120 bottle fridge has six, allowing greater organization of your cases. Trust Vintec with providing the perfect environment for your wines to age effortlessly for the future. 有了美酒當然需要好好保存,一個可靠的酒櫃當然少不了。Vintec的

Allure 系列,當中有兩款型號,可存放 90 瓶的 V150SG2EAL 及 120 瓶的 V190SG2EAL 都表現出眾。具備雙層玻璃門,美觀實用;警佈提示功能 可避免忘記關門的危險,還有電子恆溫及嵌入式門鎖。用家也可以透過

LED 顯示屏清楚顯示酒櫃的工作溫度,更可調較上層與下層的溫度,來分 別存放紅葡萄酒及白葡萄酒。以黑色為主的櫃身,設計時尚,加上典雅的 木架,適合放在家中大小角落。其他實用功能包括,活性碳濾網可以淨化 進入酒櫃的空氣,還有不含紫外線的 LED 白光照明,減少對酒的影響。這 些設計都可為你心愛的葡萄酒提供最好的存放空間。

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Cru Investments

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Melodie de Fombrauge Text: Eddie Chui

When we talk about Bordeaux, Grand Crus come to our mind as usual, but there are wines that are of good value and good quality with different style. Bernard Magrez is one of the pioneers in expanding their portfolio in the market. Besides the Grand Cru Château Pape-Clement in Bordeaux, he also owns wineries in South of France, Spain, Portugal, Napa in US, Chile and Argentina, etc., producing icon wines and also wines of great value. In Bordeaux he owns more than twenty wineries, which also produce wines targeted for daily consumption, like the Mélodie de Fombrauge. Mélodie de Fombrauge is made by Château Fombrauge located in St. Émilion. It is also one of the top châteaux owned by Bernard Magrez, which produces a grand vin classified as St. Émilion Grand Cru Classé and this full bodied cuvée usually need a long time of maturation before being really enjoyable. Mélodie de Fombrauge, on the other hand, is aimed to enjoy when it is young. The grapes are all sourced from the St. Émilion Grand Cru region, with majority of Merlot. The restrained use of oak aging make the wine really tasty, when we are decanting the wine, it releases great aroma of floral and fruity nose. On the palate, it is juicy and refreshing, with smooth tannins. It does not need much time for breathing before enjoying, and this great valued wine is good for daily consumption with food or on its own. 說到波爾多,大家總會想起最有名的各個列級酒莊,但其實也有不少是價格合理,作為日常 飲用酒款也不錯的葡萄酒。要想到最積極發展不同風格的波爾多酒莊大亨,其中一位必定是

Bernard Magrez。他除了擁有著名的波爾多列級酒莊 Château Pape-Clement外,在法國南部、 西班牙、葡萄牙、美國加州、智利、阿根廷等世界各地都擁有酒莊,除了精英酒款外,也有釀 造不少價廉物美的葡萄酒。在波爾多的二十多個酒莊當中,也有不少是釀造日常飲用的波爾多 酒款,例如是次提及的 Mélodie de Fombrauge。

Mélodie de Fombrauge是由 Bernard Magrez旗下、位於 St. Émilion產區的 Château Fombrauge釀 造。 Château Fombrauge的正牌酒是屬於頂級的 St. Émilion Grand Cru Classé等級,有著濃厚的 酒體,也相對需要較長時間的成熟期。而 Mélodie de Fombrauge則是以果香及年青時飲用為目 標,由 St. Émilion Grand Cru產區所採收的葡萄釀造。以 Merlot為主的酒釀沒有使用過多的橡木 陳釀,使得酒體較輕盈,酒香卻十分突出,在品試中把酒倒進透氣瓶時散發出陣陣的花香跟果 香,入口豐腴多汁,單寧順滑,不用長時間醒酒便可以品嚐。而且價格也是屬於日常佐餐或飲 用的葡萄酒之列。

Enquiry: DLA (HK) Ltd. Email: info@dlafr.com

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Club Peng Pai Tel: +86 (757) 6386 1961 www.clubpengpai.com

3/9/13 7:05 PM


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The

CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. This issue we will introduce the nearby hotels including the Starworld Hotel in Macau and Grand Hyatt Hotel in Singapore.

作為國際級的時尚之都,瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The

Cru Lifestyle這裡,我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、時尚玩 物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。 今期將為大家介紹鄰近的澳門星際酒店及新加坡的君悅酒店。

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Hotel Life

Grand Hyatt Singapore: Grand Hotel with Boutique Service 新加坡君悅酒店:大酒店的溫馨服務 Chinese text: Jonathan Li // Translation: Eddie Chui

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When my taxi arrived at Grand Hyatt Singapore around 9pm, my flight being delayed, an attractive young lady greeted me by name at the door. It surprises me but this is possible with some real efforts. She has a name list of arriving guests. Next morning at the Club lounge the same young lady greeted me and asked if I had a good night. Such is the hospitality of Grand Hyatt Singapore, and this is a very large 600-room plus hotel. It looks to me that the majority of guests at the Club lounge are returning guests of which I also count myself in. Best Singapore hotels are concentrated either in the Orchard circuit or in Marina Bay, and Grand Hyatt is my first choice in Orchard Road where most commercial activities are concentrated.

Shopping is all within

walking distance and in air conditioned comfort through underground walkways. But I confess that I never shop in Singapore, as shopping suffer

的士在晚上九點到達新加坡君悅酒店,我詫異的發現門外迎賓的美女竟能

comparison with Hong Kong in either variety or value. I do not care much

以名字稱呼我:這雖非不可能,因為酒店有客人名單,但做到這點卻要很

about Singapore hawker food, but I always take a meal in one of the best-

用心。次晨在會所客廳早餐,同一女士過來問候:她似乎認識大多數客

known Singapore restaurants: The Mezza 9 at the Grand Hyatt.

人,想必都是回頭客。這例子說明了新加坡君悅的待客之道,而這不是一 間小酒店,是有六百多客房的大酒店。

Recognized as a “Culinary Theatre”, this restaurant must be seen: it is huge, with 9 or so “food stations” arranged mostly as show kitchens

獅城的一流酒店要不是在烏節商圈便是在海灣區。烏節路是商業和購物

and the seating arrangement of this restaurant is like a maze. Here one

的中心,一切都在步行距離而且可以走地底連接商廈的空調走廊。但我不

can sample food from multiple culinary cultures: one can have Foie Gras

在新加坡購物:那裡類同的商店選擇和價格都不如香港。我也不欣賞大

to start followed by Sharks Fin Soup so to speak, while watching chefs

排檔,但新加坡有一間餐廳我是「每到必吃」的:那正是君悅酒店著名的

at work in one of the kitchen. Theatrical entertainment is thus added to

Mezza 9餐廳。

enhance a good food experience. The Straitskitchen is another innovative restaurant, serving a local fare buffet at reasonable price.

這餐廳被稱為「餐飲劇院」是有道理的,你總得去觀光一次。巨大的樓面 面積有九個「飲食站」,很多都是開放的表演廚房,而餐廳座位的佈局也

The hotel has two wings. The entrance wing is classical in decoration,

像迷宮。在此叫一個餐,可以吃完鵝肝跟著上魚翅,而在吃的過程則可以

where large rooms are mostly arranged as true suites with a separate

看廚師的操作。所以這裡既有美食也兼有娛樂性。 Straitskitchen是另一特

sitting area. Then there is the modern decorated tower wing. Bathrooms

色餐廳,那裡賣獅城當地菜,供應取價合理的自助餐。

are huge, with a menu of amenity supply that has everything for the asking. There are Club lounges in both wings and the food service is great with a superb choice. The evening snacks are a full meal with many hot items.

酒店樓分兩翼。進門的前翼裝潢傳統,大面積客房多作套房式,是真正廳 房分隔的套房。後翼是 Tower翼,裝潢較新潮。浴室超大供應齊備,還有一 份浴室供應品的菜單,可說要什麼有什麼。兩翼各有會所,會所客廳食物

I am never a tourist to Singapore and I come only with a specific aim. The

選擇多,黃昏小吃熱食選擇多,簡直是一頓全餐。

Grand Hyatt serves my need best: the central location next to Orchard MRT spares me from the heat and traffic, and the hotel has everything

我到新加坡總因辦點事,永不去遊玩。君悅是最適合我的酒店,其在烏節

I need: meeting places, good food, high quality sleep, and above all the

路地鐵旁的市中心位置使我不用在酷熱下奔波也不怕堵車。我要的這酒店

highest service standard like in a top boutique hotel. Given the size of the

什麼都有,會議廳,好餐廳,睡得香甜,而最優越的是,如此大的酒店竟

hotel, this is a real achievement.

能提供精品小酒店的親切服務。這聽來簡單,做到真不易。

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Hotel Special

StarWorld Hotel

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星際酒店

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StarWorld Hotel is located in the heart of Macau and has become one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks. Comfortably sitting at 39 stories, the hotel was originally designed by renowned Hong Kong architect Rocco Yim, whose patchwork glass patterns are famous for creating an illusion of light and shadow. As Galaxy Entertainment Group’s first super five-star hotel project, StarWorld’s comprehensive collection of extraordinarily beautiful designs and luxurious rooms charm Macau’s landscape. Topping this are the four 108 square meter premium suites that provide the ultimate comfort. Guests for example, can even choose between four types of pillows in case one is too soft or too hard. As one of Macau Tatler 2012’s Top Bar and Nightclub winners, the stellar Whisky Bar on the 16th floor pairs stunning views with some of the best whisky in the world. There is a vast indoor seating, but also a clear open-air platform. The al-fresco area has regular professional dance performances and also live band music, and for guests who want something less strong than whisky, there is also a variety of wine, cocktails, and bar snacks. Since 2008 the bar has won accolades for its beverages and food, which combine Asian and international flairs. 澳門星際酒店座落於澳門的核心地段,是友誼大馬路上最為特色的地標性建築。樓高

39層的星際酒店原來是由香港著名建築師嚴迅奇設計,錯落有致的幻化圖紋玻璃幕牆透 過光與影的交壘對比,視覺效果一流。作為銀河娛樂集團旗下首個超五星的娛樂酒店項 目,澳門星際全面集合非凡亮麗的建築外觀,與及豪華的房間設計配套,當中由豪華客 房與套房都坐擁澳門迷人景觀;當中只有四間、面積達108平方米的星際套房更是豪華舒 適,所有房間都設有枕頭庫存,備有不同質料與軟硬度的枕頭供客人選擇。

StarWorld Hotel 星際酒店 Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳門友誼大馬路 Tel: (853) 2838 3838 Email: enquiries@starworldmacau.com Website: www.starworldmacau.com

作為 Macau  Tatler  2012 年「頂級酒吧與浦點」的得獎者,位於星際 16 樓的品味吧 (Whisky Bar)除了設有可以盡享迷人景色的落地玻璃室內座位外,更設有廣闊的露天 平台,感受戶外的舒適之餘,現場樂隊和定期的專業舞蹈表演更是錦上添花。供應各式 美酒、單一麥芽威士忌及多款各式雞尾酒的品味吧更由2008年起一直奪得多個本地、亞 洲及國際花式調酒獎項,創意與實力兼備。

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Art Life

A rt and Culture at HAJI 文化與藝術在夏至 Text by Mini 夏至Photos by michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team. Hair ( Mini ) by Pius Yiu 姚派 ( Pi4.com.hk )

HAJI Gallery presents “Post-contemporary and dissociation” 2-year-old birthday plus back to Hong Kong Exhibition Tour 《好孩子的後現代生活解構》- 2歲生日聯歡暨回歸香港巡迴展

A young and upcoming artist, Leumas To, once made a wish to hold his solo exhibition before the age of 23. Fortunately, he did it in the very last month of his 22nd birthday at HAJI Gallery. Since then, his exhibition’s life began. After tour to different cities in Mainland China, Leumas is back to Hong Kong and back to HAJI. “Post-contemporary and dissociation” is his seventh exhibition. Are the good children growing up too fast? Are they dissociated? What’s romance to them? How do you define independency? Are you living with the culture? Are you growing up too slow? You may find the answer by checking his illustration works and photographs in the exhibition. 年輕插畫藝術家 Leumas  To 在他 23 歲前,許下要在 22 歲時舉行藝術展的願望,結 果,在他 22 歲的最後 1 個月,成功在 HAJI  Gallery 舉辦了他人生第一次展覽。自 此之後, Leumas 的展覽就不斷出現了,他更巡迴到內地兩次再回歸香港,回歸

HAJI  Gallery ,舉行他人生的第7次展覽。是次展出的是成長了的「好孩子」,經 過兩年,在社會上和情感上有甚麼生理變化? Leumas 為後現代生活解構。甚麼是 浪漫?浪漫代表自由嗎?獨立是甚麼?我們和這個城市一起呼吸麼?我們有沒有機 會好好地成長起來,還是在原地踏步?參觀展覽的人,透過畫作與相片,浪漫回歸 到他們身上。

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Art Life

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HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011

Subjective Objects | HK HAJI Gallery 特約靳埭強策展《香港物誌》藝展 This is undoubtedly the most powerful group exhibition ever. Curated by Kan Tai-keung, the group exhibition features nine extraordinary renowned local artists in Hong Kong. The strong line-up included Kan Tai-keung himself, anothermountainman (Stanley Wong), Freeman Lau, Rex Chan, Benny Au, Chow So-hing, Clement Yick, Hung Keung, and Margaret Chu. “ I deliberately invite local artists who grew up in Hong Kong, they are from different generations. We use object as the subject, to create art of Hong Kong.” Kan Tai-keung said. For the key visual of the exhibition, each of the artists is imprinted on the coin of Hong Kong. This one dollar coin represents the memory of Hong Kong. With the vintage pig money box, it’s like a pot of dream, save your memories and creativities at Subjective Objects, HK. Exhibition starts from Sep 13th to 30th at HAJI Gallery. 這是一個陣容空前鼎盛的聯展。能夠邀請得到這麼多殿堂級的大師及新貴參與展覽 的策展人當然也有不少份量,是次展覽的策展人就是靳埭強。展覽的藝術家,排名 不分先後,包括靳埭強自己、又一山人、劉小康 、陳漢標 、區德誠 、周素卿 、易 達華 、洪強及朱卓慧。 策展人靳叔說:「藉《香港物誌》藝展的策劃,我邀請八位生於斯或長於斯,不同 年代在香港起步的藝術家,以生活中有所感悟之物,誘發創意,為這展覽創作藝術 品,抒發各自的香港情懷…」單是展覽的 Key  Visual ,就是以香港一蚊銀配以各藝 術家的頭像,借物發揮,加上已漸式微的豬仔錢箱,把創意與回憶儲入香港情懷。 展覽九月十三日至三十日在 HAJI Gallery 舉行,九星連線在 HAJI 。

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The terroir The soil is poor, composed of limestone, sandstone and Upper Cretaceous marine shale. The sea air from the Bay of Bandol compensates for the terroir’s acidity and low rainfall. Tasting notes Garnet robe. A complex nose with red fruit, wild strawberry, leather and spice notes – as well as a hint of liquorice freshness. A lively bite and rounded tannins contribute to a suave overall effect in the mouth.

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Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場

JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯���甸道西1號

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A

Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號

Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號

Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號

Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號

The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道

Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號

Regal Kowloon Hotel 71 Mody Road, TST, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道71號 Conrad Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, HK 金鐘皇后大道88號太古廣場 Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 1 Castle Peak Road, Gold Coast, HK 香港青山道1號 Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong (CRC) 123 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 大坑銅鑼灣道123號 Kowloon Cricket Club 10 Cox’s Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 覺士道10號九龍木球會 Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kellett Island, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣奇力島 The American Club 48-49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, HK 中環交易廣場第二座48-49樓 The China Club 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Central, HK 中環德輔道中2A中國銀行大廈13樓-14樓 The Hong Kong Golf Club 19 Island Road, Deep Water Bay, HK 深水灣香島道19號

Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖

The latest Italian dining concept brings authentic regional tastes from Italy, serving this best-loved cuisine in a relaxed and rustic setting, with stunning harbour views. Nestled within the Hong Kong Arts Centre, it offers a new dining experience that rolls artistic vibe and impeccable hospitality into one. It has been awarded the seal Ospitalità Italiana, a certificate recognizing Assaggio’s authentic Italian cuisine and recommended by the Michelin Guides.

Address: 6/F Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2877 3999 Website: www.assaggio.hk

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Café Siam is one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants and the only Michelin-recognized establishment in Hong Kong, Café Siam is a tranquil respite from the hustle & bustle of Lan Kwai Fong.

Address: 2/F – 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2851 4803 Website: www.cafesiam.com.hk

Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下

Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖

Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖

Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖

Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖

Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖

Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖

Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑

Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖

Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓

Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓

L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖

Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓

Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓

Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓

Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓

Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience. Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk

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With over 40 years of experience. Jeeves of Belgravia serves leading international fashion houses, the Royal Family of England and all those stylish individuals who care for their garments and accessories. Looking for a top quality Fashion dry cleaner in Hong Kong? The choice is simple: Jeeves of Belgravia. Email: jeeves@jeeves.com.hk Website: www.jeeves.com.hk Facebook: www.facebook.com/jeeveshongkong Customer service hotline: 2973 0071 Collection and delivery hotline: 2552 7557

Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室

Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418

The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號

French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓

Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖

The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號

Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓

NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓

Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓

O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓

St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓

Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖

Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室

Messina, named after a city in Sicily, features the finest cuisine from southern Italy. Diners can enjoy a few drinks before their meal at the bar located near the entrance, with window-side tables overlooking Victoria Harbour.

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In  December  2012,  Messina  received  a  “Particularly  Pleasant” recommendation in the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2013.

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Messina 以 意 大 利 西 西 里 一 個 城 市 命 名 , 主 打 意 國 南 部 美 饌 。 進 餐 前 不 妨在入口處的酒吧淺嚐美酒,倚窗座位可飽覽璀璨維港美景。去年12 月, Messina 獲得米芝蓮「上佳餐廳」推介。

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Address: 5/F, Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St, Hung Hom Tel: 3746 2733 Website: www.kodining.com

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Zeitgeist [tsīt-ˌgīst, ˈzīt-], the general intellectual, moral, and cultural climate of an era. Loft [ˈlȯft], an upper room or floor. When combined, it became an intellectual and innovative wine boutique, specializing in the finest and rare California cult wines. Our philosophy is to share our passion with the most unique experiences to the people who love wine.

Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下

Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室

Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖

Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室

Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室

Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號

Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下

Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪

Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪

Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓

Collezione Maxscene Wineshop Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, MM Advertising - ISSUE (July 2013) - 54 210x85mm - OP-V3.pdf 1 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室 Kowloon, Hong Kong

M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室

Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下

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Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN

5:44 PM 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪

voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下 Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖 Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖

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Cru magazine special subscription offer Dynasty Medium Dry White Wine Muscat is a grape variety that was already known to the Romans who called it “apianae” in reference to its honey smell in the vineyard that attracted bees. Its nose is

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Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com

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Cru Magazine 2013-09