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Passion for Wine and Life

Cover Story

The Dream Comes True The Legend in Napa

夢境成真-納帕谷的百年傳 Cru World of Wines

The Marvellous Continues: Robert Mondavi Winery

2013 DEC

2013 DEC

HK$38

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Richness, Cashmere-Soft Tannins, Subtle depict the best wine. Vinvautz depicts the best wine cellar.

Le Meilleur Choix 6-166 bottles available

The Ultimate Choice • Vinvautz Wine Cellar

2/F, Shing Dao Industrial Building, 232 Aberdeen Main Road, HK. Website: www.gilman-group.com Customer Hotline: (852) 8210 8210

Vinvautz is now available at electrical appliances chain stores and major department stores Gilman Galleries Shop 709-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen's Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong (852) 2881 0055 B2-3, Basement, Starhouse Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon (852) 2730 6747 Shop 357-358, HomeSquare, 138 Shatin Rural Committee Road, Shatin (852) 2699 0345

www.vinvautz-france.com

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TABLE OF CONTENTS #036 December 2013 The Red Christmas Edition

Wine

Cru Speech 014 Deductive Tasting - part two 推理式品酒 - 第二部

Cru Cover Story 028 The dream comes true - the Legend in Napa 夢境成真-納帕谷的百年傳

052 Cru

Review

Life

生活

Cru Insight 016 Wine Culture in Hong Kong 香港葡萄酒文化淺談 018 Cru

Corners

054

Cru Special 025 Penfolds Vintage 2008 Collection 奔富2008年份限量珍藏系列

034 Cru World of Wines 034 The Marvellous Continues Robert Mondavi Winery

026

026

A Great Opportunity to get some great Bordeaux Vintages 醉人美酒波爾多 - 偉大年份 入貨良機

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Cru Leader 040 Halliday companioning Hong Kong with Hardys

Hotel Life 058 Hotel du Louvre, Paris 巴黎羅浮宮酒店

Art Life 060 Art and Culture at HAJI 文化藝術在夏至

The Gold Christmas Edition

Cru Spirits 042 When Single malt comes with black and white 當單麥碰上黑白膠片

Cru Dining

044

044 Harmony of the east and west 中、西完壁

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Letters from the Editor 送舊迎新⋯⋯ 不經不覺又到了2013年最後的一個月,也剛過了兩個最忙碌的月份, 不停的試酒、出差、酒展、午餐晚宴,還要寫稿、Panel Tasting及內 部的審評,實在透不過氣來。幸好我對酒的熱情完全沒有減退的跡 象。而喝酒,當然是適量地品嚐、淺酌的好,凡事都不能過量啊。 早前收拾家中日積月累的本子時,發現了一本本的品酒筆記,多年來 飲酒,在五、六年前開始儲下來的,已經有十多二十本了,滿滿寫上 我喝過的酒、讚嘆的年份酒釀,第一次的 1908,第一次陳年香檳, 來自不常見的產酒國。當然還少不了各款的烈酒。帶給我最多的顯然 是一班朋友,我發現喜愛品酒的朋友都是開放、健談的,大家喜歡跟 大家分享自己認為最好的酒釀,不論平貴,總能讓整個晚增添不少歡 樂。我想一班理想的酒友便是這樣了,最怕的是那些不停的乾杯。 再看看自己的酒窖,也日積月累儲下了不少美酒,但最近發現不少都是未能馬上飲用的新年份酒釀。我的舊酒存貨也差不多耗盡,但這也未必是件懷 事,因為太老舊的酒實在會失去她過去的光輝華麗,鉛華洗盡後未必有燦爛的黃昏。一方面現在釀酒技術實在太厲害,不少只有兩、三歲的頂級酒釀 口要有適當的處理(當然是在說透氣、醒酒),現在飲也是極之美味,例如2010年的波爾多;2009年的勃艮第。大家可能也是時候趁年尾送舊迎新, 把陳年美酒跟朋友分享一下了。

Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com

Editorial Director : Eddie Chui

Publisher : Cru Media Limited

Tasting Editor : Francois Luck

Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54

Assistant Editor : Nevin Yip

Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Creative Director : Jenkin Ma

Tel : (852) 3568 9100

Designer : Blue Sin

Fax : (852) 3568 9101

Photographer : Alvin Luk, Henry CK

E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com

Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong

Website : www.cru-magazine.com

Business Director : Nicholas Siu

Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine

Marketing Manager : Carol Chung Assistant Manager : Nicola Tsui

Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196

Senior Marketing Executive : Jan Lau

All rights reserved 版權所有,翻印必究

ISSN 2221016-4

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THE TASTE OF A MAESTRO.

The Venetian art of winemaking

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾.貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景,亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師,更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。

Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇,愛好美酒美食,大 中華酒評人協會會員,英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》,電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。

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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡.德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編,並於 1996 年與米歇爾.貝塔納 (Michel Bettane)合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南,內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師, 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地,從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師,都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述,極具天賦能力。

Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 , 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣, Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素,以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。

Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.

Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong.  Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.

劉涵濤在香港出生,於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師,2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起,曾於澳洲的南澳,維多利亞 省,法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作,現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師,亦同時用自然,低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒,「傳」。

Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗,考獲 WSET

Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.

高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師,亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course,亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。

Grace Zheng Grace Zheng is an experienced wine educator in Mainland China who teaches the WSET Level 3. As well as freelancing for some of China’s wine magazines like Hurun Report, China Wine News, Vivi, and Vinovogue, Grace is also an active and popular blogger on WeiBo. 鄭瑋菡 Grace 是在中國大陸教授WSET第三 級別的資深導師。她亦有在一些內地葡萄酒 雜誌如《胡潤百富》、《華夏酒報》、《酒 典》和《酒尚》等撰寫文章。Grace亦是新浪 微博「小旗袍的美味人生」的博主。

單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名,用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite,企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上,生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食,及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業,可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。

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T a s t i n g

Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s  Singtao  Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師,擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》,並在 多家報章雜誌包括:《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄,亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道-美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。

Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was  awarded  the  Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒,2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格,並成為香港首批 CSW,並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體,並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書(萬里機構 出版)。

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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說,每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情,因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程,充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後,現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 , 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。

Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判,並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一,持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格,對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。

Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny  from  Burgundy  and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎,亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣,他先後任職於不 同酒商,包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ,並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教,曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒, 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。

Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA.  She has attained Sommelier  certification  from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia.  Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師,同為一 為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書��� 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」,成為中國/香港的 代表,遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。

Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師,亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程, 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ,鳳凰衛視,瑪麗嘉 兒,味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一,Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。

Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few. Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College 的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異成 績畢業,翌年更考獲WSET第五級榮 譽文憑。自 2003 年起一直在世界各 地的許多酒莊工作,由英國Bookers 和 葡 萄 牙 Adega do Cantor 的 小 型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema的大型酒莊都有她的足跡。

Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist  of  Spirits  from  the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會( WSET )的文憑資 格,亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士,並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗,亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。

Jordan Choy Certificated  Bordeaux  Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday  Bordeaux  2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist. 法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師(L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux),香港葡萄酒 學會導師,曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯,撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審,包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。

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T a s t i n g

Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣, 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展,並接受不同 崗位的訓練,親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化,對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛,把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師,既能發揮其 個人所長,亦可寓工作於娛樂。

P a n e l

Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 , J o rd i 現 為 A S C   F i n e   W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier,亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項,包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍,亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。

Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong  Sommelier  Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender  Association.  He  is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t   W i n e   L i s t   Aw a rd s 2008  and  2009,  also  the California  Grapes  International Inc.,  and  the  Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員,亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes  International  Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一,自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍,更於 2006

Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼

Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”

助理餐飲經理,以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師, 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師,對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍,並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮,是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師,前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。

香港最年輕侍酒師之一,Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道:「作為一名侍酒 師,我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」

Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.

Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.

年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。

Benny Chung B e n n y   C h u n g   i s   t h e   P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.

Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in H One as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.

Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.

Gon曾留學於瑞士,修讀酒店管理課 Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部 項目經理,熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格,同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。

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程,回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作,現為餐廳H One的品酒師, 憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒佳餚的 搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約七年前 於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡萄酒, 也在學習上、工作上不斷加深認識 及接觸葡萄酒,越來越被這種神之水 滴所吸引。

Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久,當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間,Kevin除了在工作中不斷 汲取經驗外,更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程,成為一位出色的品酒師,對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師,對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉,當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。

天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣,母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多,曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作,亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作,自此愛上亞 洲,現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。

Katrina於2006年加入飲食業,現正 於香港日航酒店工作,主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她,已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽,不但成功進入香港區五 強,最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍,被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。

5/12/13 4:29 pm


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T a s t i n g

Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師,現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師,曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍,被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。

P a n e l

Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request. Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間,由 公關到宴會搞手,到作家與記者、導 師,她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。

Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.

Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.

從事飲食業十多年,Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 , 曾 為 G r a n d   C r u ( C o v a   G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。

來自意大利 Friuli ,長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理,現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。

Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the Sommelier of Shangri-la Hotel Kowloon.

Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.

Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.

資深新聞工作者,葡萄酒愛好者, 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。

剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。

Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Place Hotel. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.

Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.

Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.

Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年,曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作,現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。

Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作,包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille,Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines,現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。

Vincent是香港朗豪酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年,Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣 充滿熱情。

Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。他剛

曾於澳洲留學,Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The  Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師,現 為九龍香格里拉大酒店之品酒師。

Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET. Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證 品酒師;葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家,亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。

Andy She Andy is now the Sommelier of Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel. He had also worked at Cuisine Cuisine and The French Window, Langham Hotel as Sommelier. In 2013, He was qualified Senior Sommelier level and being the committee of HKSA. Andy 是 香 港 萬 麗 海 景 酒 店 的 品 酒 師,曾任職國金軒、 The French Window 及尖沙咀朗廷酒店的品酒 師。 2013 年考獲香港專業品酒師協

Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Il Miliones. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年,曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師,現為 意大利餐廳Il Milione的品酒師。

Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar. Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師,從事多年飲食界相關行 業,經驗豐富,現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒,希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。

Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage. 擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書,Don曾 於Domani,香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作,現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。

會認可的資深品酒師會員資格及擔任 協會委員。

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5/12/13 4:30 pm


T a s t i n g

Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fook Lam Moon. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred  hotels  including InterContinental Hong Kong, RitzCarlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年,曾於不同 的五星級酒店工作,包括:香港洲 際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅 香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒 專業資格,也是香港專業品酒師協 會會員。

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Danny Ng Danny is a recognized member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. He is now the Assistant Chief Sommelier/ Assistant Bar Manager of American Club. He had worked at St. Betty as Sommelier. Also, he had worked in “Church St. Enotica” Italian one Hat Restaurant in Melbourne Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He is studying the WSET Diploma Level 4.

Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Langham Place Mongkok, China Club and Hip Cellar. As a senior member of the HKSA, she also has an certificated Specialist of Wine, Joey is now the Sommelier of No.1 Waitanyuen cellar in Shanghai.

作為香港品酒師協會認可會 員 , Danny 持 有 香 港 葡 萄 酒 教 育 中心第三級,現於美國會任職助 理品酒師,亦曾於 Betty’s Kitchen 任職品酒師。曾於澳洲墨爾本 「 Church St. Enotica」意大利餐廳 工作一年,亦是他認識葡萄酒和鍾 情於澳洲葡萄酒的地方。 Danny 現 正修讀WSET文憑第四級。

Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐 飲管理學士學位課程,畢業後於美 國 Renaissance Hotel實習,曾在香 港君悅酒店、旺角朗豪酒店、中國 會及Hip Cellar工作,考獲CSW證 書的 Joey亦為香港專業品酒師協會 高級品酒師之一。現於上海外灘源 壹號酒窖任職侍酒師。

P a n e l

Vincent Chue Vincent  Chue  received  fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄 酒訓練,並取得WSET的進階證書, 同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲 得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班 牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理,對 西班牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。

Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments,  Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高 級品酒師,曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團 及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集團品酒師、香 港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines 和 Houghton Wines 酒窖員 工,著有葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書 籍《Wine Me》。

5/12/13 4:30 pm


014

Cru Speech

Deductive Tasting - part two 推理式品酒 - 第二部

English Text : Ian Symonds // Translation : Eddie Chui

In the last issue of Cru I wrote about Geoff Kruth MS and the advanced

上一次我提到Geoff Kruth MS及他在這裡進行的一些進階品酒師品試小組。當時

sommelier session he gave here. To remind you we were given a

我們收到的是一份簡單的「盲品」專用的筆記表,也就是ISG跟Court of Master

simple handout with the famous tasting grid for ‘blind’ tasting that the

Sommelier常用的那款。Geoff通常不喜歡使用「盲品」這字眼,而喜歡用在推理

Guild and Court uses. Geoff generally does not use the word ‘blind’ he

式的品酒上加上以「本能」作為品試的基礎。這所謂的「本能」式風格,便是很多

prefers ‘instinctive’ in addition to the concept of ‘deductive’ tasting. The

人都認識,以WSET的SAT系統式品酒卡作為基礎的品酒方式。在協會其中一個

‘instinctive’ style is when we are guided by the familiar grid or SAT card for

Podcast中,Geoff跟Antony Moss MW的品試當中,便是根據著WSET的指引

WSET. Interestingly in one of the Guild’s podcasts Geoff tastes with Antony

去品試,有興趣的話可以下載來收聽。

Moss MW who is the guiding hand behind the WSET grid – please listen to this if you can!

Geoff在講解的時候列出了一系列的重點,以助品試,而我也在他所提出的味道及 簡氣種類中加上自己的筆記。他提議在概有的指引上加入自己的筆記,從而作出結

Geoff introduced us to his list that would help with deduction and I have

論,這些個人的觀察有助於更容易得出結果。以下是一些他使用的重點指引:

appended my notes to each category of flavour or aroma that he gave. In addition to the grid system he suggested we look for these notes and try

Residual Sugar 酒中殘留的糖份,入口時很快便能感受到,將之形容為「

to draw conclusions from them with our other observations.

軟枕」,大多數出現在德國的Riesling ;阿爾薩斯的Pinot Gris 、Muscat 或

Gewurztraminer;Loire的Vouvray甚至華盛頓州的Riesling。以這樣的方式去推 Residual sugar, get this as the wine enters your mouth, described as a

算的話,當殘留糖份約為5-10g/L時,相對來說可以縮窄推斷的範圍。

‘pillow’ most likely to indicate German Riesling, Alsace Pinot Gris, Muscat

Botrytis貴腐味道,也可以在紅葡萄酒中出現,當然更常見於不甜的白葡萄酒。

or Gewurztraminer, Loire Vouvray or even a Washington State Riesling – a

而且在不甜的白酒中,常帶陣陣以蜂蜜、薑、藏紅花為主的香味,酒的邊帶金黃

relatively small list but tough to call when the sugar level is around 5-10

色。這些特點可以聯想到Savenniere、Gruner Veltliner或Riesling。

g/l only.

Pyrazines 或Methoxy-Pyrazine ,是形容那種像青椒的味道,常見於

Botrytis, can be in red wine, most commonly in whites and in some dry

Sauvignon Blanc 、Cabernet Franc 、Cabernet Sauvginon 、Merlot 、

whites in the form of honey, ginger, saffron; most likely from Alsace and

Malbec及Carmenere的酒中。

often with a ‘golden’ edge to the colour. These hint at Savenniere, Gruner

Terpenes則是代表花香,香氣突出的酒款。例如:Muscat、Gewurztraminer

Veltliner or Riesling.

、Torrontes、Viogner,有時甚至在Riesling或Alvarinho也感覺到。

Pyrazines, ‘Methoxy-pyrazine’, generally a green bell pepper aroma,

Rotundone,是指像Shiraz或Syrah及Gruner Veltliner當中常有的胡椒味道。

indicates Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,

New Oak新橡木當然甜美,但也十分昂貴,所以有時只會使用少量的新橡木。而

Malbec and Carmenere.

相對舊的橡木會為酒帶來氧化的陳年味道。而現今,新橡木桶風味大多在波爾多、

Terpenes, offer up very floral, aromatic aromas - Muscat, Gewurztraminer,

勃艮第及美國加州的頂級酒款中找到。

Torrontes, Viognier and even in Riesling and Alvarinho.

Rasination (葡萄乾),可以解讀為放在禾稻上風乾的乾葡萄風味,常見於

Rotundone, peppery characters that are typical of Syrah/Shiraz and

Amarone及Zinfandel葡萄酒中。

Gruner Veltliner

High VA 或ethyl acetate ,最常見於Barolo 、Châteauneuf-du-Pape 及

New oak is essentially sweet but also very expensive so the amount of

Amarone葡萄酒出現。

new oak being used is small. Its counterpart is old oak that gives oxidative

Brettanomyces,一種惡性的酵母,入侵到酒窖後會帶來藥水膠布、馬槽的動

age. Most new oak is in top end wines from Bordeaux, Bourgogne and

物性氣味。大部份酒莊都把它清除,但有部分人對這種味道卻有種偏好。

California these days.

Oxidation(氧化),是還完臭的相反。使用洽當的話能增添風味、複雜度。常

Rasination, picture bunches or straw mats of dried berries – Amarone

見於雪利酒Sherry、Savenniere、Barolo、Rioja、隆河區的Marsanne。

and Zinfandel.

Phenolic bitterness(苦澀)及lees contact(酒渣接觸),兩者通常是相關

High VA, ‘ethyl acetate’, most commonly picked up on Barolo,

連的。白葡萄酒當中這種苦味是很常見的,但在Gruner Veltliner、Pinot Gris及

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If the words ‘exclusive’ or ‘premium’ or ‘premier’ are used by a school to describe itself or its course contents then beware as it means they know they are the exact opposite. 如果你看到一些學校標榜自己的課程是獨家、獨有或特 別限定的話,應該更為注意,很多時事實正好是剛剛相 反的。

Chateauneuf du Pape and Amarone. Brettanomyces, the terrible rogue yeast that can permeate a winery to give ‘band-aid’, horse manure aromas. Typically it is being cleaned up but is still enjoyed by a few so is ‘in the eye of the beholder (or smeller)’. Oxidation, the counter partner to reduction, the two are often handin-hand. If deliberate and pleasant can be found in Sherry, Savenniere, Barolo, Rioja, Marsanne in the Rhone. Phenolic bitterness / lees contact, these two are often linked and / or related. Bitterness in a white you should notice; but in Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Gris and Alvarinho that touch of bitterness is part and parcel of the

(www.guildsomm.com). This is a fast developing area of study – the cutting edge of tasting skills. Let me add - the great thing about the Guild is that they share their knowledge with everyone. They say clearly, and I believe passionately, that any person, school or organization that sees knowledge as power is wrong. If the words ‘exclusive’ or ‘premium’ or ‘premier’ are used by a school to describe itself or its course contents then beware as it means they know they are the exact opposite.

grape. In Muscadet and Chablis the subtle hint of sour cream lees contact can be a give away.

Alvarinho那些帶苦的味道其實是來自葡萄本身的。在Muscadet及Chablis酒中的

Carbonic (maceration), immediate thought is Beaujolais but any region

酸奶油風味大部分卻是來自酒渣接觸而來的。

that whole bunch / cluster ferments can be included so Crozes Hermitage,

Carbonic Maceration(二氧化碳浸皮法)最常見於Beaujolais,但其他採用

St Joseph as examples.

整棵或整串葡萄發酵的酒釀都可以找到這些風味,例如Crozes-Hermitage及St.

Thiols, tougher to define but is often found as grapefruit or passion fruit in

Joseph等等

Sauvignon Blanc, chocolate in Merlot and Malbec.

Thiols(一種硫化物)較難定義,但可以想像在Sauvignon Blanc中找到的西柚 或熱情果的香味,及Merlot及Malbec當中的巧克力味道。

So, how did we do with our wines that day, here are the briefest of notes just linking our findings to the wines.

到底當天我們是怎樣品試的呢?以下是我一些個人對不同酒款的觀察及重點筆記:

NZ Sauvignon Blanc - pyrazines; Argentinian Torrontes – aromatic

Terpenes;Chablis一級田:來自酒渣的酸奶油;阿爾薩斯Pinot Gris:貴腐當

terpenes; Chablis 1er cru – sour cream from lees; Alsace Pinot Gris –

中的薑味;隆河的St. Joseph:胡椒味的Rotundones;2003年的Rioja:氧化

ginger from a hint of botrytis; St Joseph (Rhone) - peppery rotundones;

風味;智利的Carmenere:Pyrazines;2009年的Barolo:單寧,色澤及氧化。

Rioja (2003) - oxidation; Chilean Carmenere – pyrazines again; Barolo

Geoff 利用原有的技巧加上新學的推理式方法去示範如何使用在盲品上。在兩

新西蘭 Sauvignon Blanc : Pyrazines ;阿根廷 Torrontes :富香氣的

2009 – tannins, colour and oxidation.

款紅酒當中,一款是Syrah ,而另一款是Cabernet Franc ,當前的任務是要 分辨出兩款酒,有兩個方向可從。第一,來自北隆河的Syrah 帶有胡椒風味的

Geoff uses the following example of tasting wines using instinctive skills

Rotundones、橄欖及煙燻肉類的味道。第二個方向是以Chinon產司的Cabernet

and the new learned deductive skills. You have two reds one is Syrah,

Franc為前題,常帶有的是青椒風味的Pyrazines及新鮮的風乾煙草葉。

the other Cabernet Franc; you reach the point where you must decide which is which and here the road goes in two ways. One – Syrah, Northern

當然這些方法並不是百發百中,但最少可以在試飲的時候多了一些可循的方式去

Rhone because of the peppery rotundones, olives, smoked meats. Two –

猜想。協會(www.guildsomm.com)也發佈了一系列新的品酒指引,讓大家跟

Cabernet Franc, Chinon because of green bell pepper pyrazines and the

進、試用。品酒技巧絕對是在不斷發展的重要範疇。

freshly dried tobacco leaf. 我想補充的是,這協會的其中一樣優勝之處是它會把所有知識分享給所有人。他們

No one is suggesting this is a foolproof 100% system but the beginnings

清楚表明,認為任何人士、學校或機構都不應該視各種知識為一種權力或特權,而

of a new set of clues to help in your tasting endeavours. The Guild has

我也十分認同。如果你看到一些學校標榜自己的課程是獨家、獨有或特別限定的

released a new set of tasting guidelines, join up, download and enjoy

話,應該更為注意,很多時事實正好是剛剛相反的。

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Cru Insight English Text : Tersina Shieh Translation : Nevin Yip

Wine

香港葡萄酒文化淺談

culture in Hong Kong

Thoughts on Hong Kong wine market

香港葡萄酒市場之反思

On two occasions recently I have had cause to give some thought

最近在兩次的因緣際會下,令我不禁反思現時香港葡萄酒市場的景象。第

to the state of the Hong Kong wine market. The first was when I was

一個是在今年1月份,我獲邀擔任在聖地牙哥舉辦的第十屆年度智利葡萄酒

invited to be a judge at the 10th Annual Wines of Chile Awards in

大獎的評審。大獎的主題是亞洲,而每一位評審都要作一個關於智利葡萄

Santiago back in January. The focus was Asia, and each judge was

酒業在當地正面對之機會和困難的演說。第二個則在8月份,當時我跟一位

asked to give a presentation about the opportunities and challenges

葡萄酒市場委員會的代表談論香港市場環境。兩次的事件都帶給我更多的

the Chilean wine industry faces in his or her territory. The second was

資料和數據,而且更令我有新的結論。

just in August when I was discussing the Hong Kong wine market scene with a representative of a wine marketing board. Both led me to so

首先,是香港似乎沒有葡萄酒文化,以及我們應該如何去培育這個文化。

some digging through data and statistics, and each time I discovered

其次,是香港過份側重於波爾多酒,而且同時需要擺脫到底甚麼是「好葡

some thought-provoking facts that led me to these conclusions.

萄酒」的心態。

The first is about the near absence of a wine culture in Hong Kong and whether and how we might develop one. The second is about

關於香港葡萄酒文化

the heavily skewed dominance of Bordeaux wine and the need to get

我認為香港葡萄酒市場是很有潛力的。雖然香港政府在2008年免去葡萄酒

away from the herd mentality on what is a ‘good’ wine.

稅,但港人飲用葡萄酒的增長率仍然緩慢。縱使香港是亞洲之中飲用最多 葡萄酒的地區(每年人均5公升),為日本2倍;中國大陸則5倍,但我們仍

Towards a Hong Kong wine culture

然落後於其他國家,例如相比起美國則少1倍(儘管已經有50﹪的美國人因

I believe Hong Kong has great potential. However, although we drink the most wine in Asia (an annual 5 litres per capita), which is double

宗教或其他理由而不飲酒)。而我,及其他大陪分的葡萄酒業者,每年都

that of the Japanese and five times as much as the Mainland Chinese,

量!就此我發現兩個現象,一是香港真正的飲家數量不多,同時那些真正

we are still trailing far behind other countries, only half of what the Americans drink (and 50% of Americans do not drink alcohol at all for

飲家飲用的數量郤又不足。這就引申到葡萄酒生產者,到底如何可以使到

會飲用超過100公升的葡萄酒,換算來即是我們每人都飲掉相當於20人的份

更多人飲用葡萄酒。

religious and other reasons). Wine consumption in Hong Kong has been increasing ever since our Government abolished wine duties in

就市場學角度來說,香港的情況跟其他國家有點不同。通常一般都是以日

2008 but the growth rate is not fast. I, and most of us in the wine

常飲用的數量最多,但香港郤不然。根據 Debra Meiburg MW 的《 2010

industry, drink over 100 litres per year, meaning that each of us is

Hong Kong W ine Trade Guide 》,香港人飲用最多的其實是中價酒

drinking for 20 people! I see two issues in Hong Kong: there are not enough real consumers, and those (I mean real consumers) who drink

不合比例的現象。對喜愛葡萄酒的人來說,價錢似乎不是什麼大問題,香

do not drink enough. The challenge to wine producers, therefore, is

港人工作壓力大,飲美味的葡萄酒或吃一頓高檔的晚飯就當成了給自己辛

how to persuade the average Hong Kong consumers to drink more.

勞的獎勵。相比起其他地區,香港人其實是頗願意花錢去享受,為何飲者

( HKD120﹣600 )佔了 60﹪ ;而貴價酒消費及投資則佔了28﹪ ,這是一個

的數目仍然是那麼少?歸根究底是因為大眾對葡萄酒的認識不足,他們對

From a marketing perspective, Hong Kong is different from other

一些專有名詞例如「單寧」、「酸度」等字眼都十分陌生,而且葡萄酒當

countries. Whereas in most markets the entry level segment is the

中又有不少他國的語言,好像terroir等,這些對於一般大眾來說或許是過於

biggest, that is not the case in Hong Kong. We have a disproportionately

複雜,感覺很難親近,甚至被嚇怕了。

big luxury/ investment wine category at 28% by volume. And the biggest market by far is the mid-market, from HK$120 to HK$600 per bottle retail, with 60% (Debra Meiburg MW 2010 Hong Kong Wine

016-017_cruSpeech_tersina.indd 1

我們或者將葡萄酒簡化一點,就能夠令更多人喜歡葡萄酒。其實很多飲品 背後都有學問及難度,好像可樂和咖啡,在製造或沖泡的過程中亦都需要

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017

Trade Guide). So for consumers who are interested in wine, price

The industry must unite to develop the wine culture. This is the only

seems not to be a major concern. ‘Work hard, play hard’ altitude

way to sustain a healthy market, benefiting everyone from producers

serves most Hong Kong residents and we like to reward ourselves.

and importers to restaurateurs and consumers.

Just look at the number of Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, and they are always full.

Since space is limited, I would better take a pause here. Next time, I will go further on Hong Kong wine markets and drinks that people fond

It seems that, unlike in other cash-strapped cities, Hong Kong people

of, see you!

are willing to spend. So why don’t more people drink? What it boils down to is that people just don’t understand wine. And, we in the

計算和考慮比例、配方、溫度及壓力等等多項因素。但可口可樂公司和星

wine industry don’t make it any easier for them. We talk technical

巴克都沒有冗長地跟大眾講解,反而將產品內容簡化,結果是如何,相信

stuffs like tannin and acidity and we make them feel stupid if they can’t

都不用我說了。葡萄的品種和生產國家的種類或者可能太多太複雜,但我

pronounce ‘terroir’ properly. In other words, we put consumers off by

們一樣可以令它們變得顯淺一點、平易近人一點,令到更多人去認識葡萄

being too professional.

酒。簡單易明的字眼例如輕柔、果味、剛勁、濃厚等詞彙其實都可以令消 費者更容易想像得到和掌握葡萄酒的形象。

To make wine truly popular, we need to make it enjoyable. Coke is a highly precise drink with the exact same amount of syrup and pressure

我們可以慢慢建立香港的葡萄酒文化,香港人對食其實都相當有要求,而

in every can, but the company doesn’t bother consumers with this.

且絕不馬虎。所以,透過酒和食物的配搭,我認為可以令消費者從中認識

Consumers enjoy Coke because it is refreshing and they explore the

到更多關於酒類的知識。Fongyee Walker是我一位友人,同時以北京為基

different flavours and brands to find their favourite. Starbucks didn’t

地的葡萄酒顧問。她指出當地人吃飯時只會說那一頓飯是否舒暢,他們只

lecture us about the correct temperature at which to drink coffee when

是希望能與三五良朋自由自在的吃飯而不計較其他煩悶餐桌禮儀甚麼的。

they first came to Hong Kong, and now see how many coffee bars

或許我們可以借鏡,在輕鬆的環境底下相信能夠培養到消費者對葡萄酒的

there are here! Wine may be slightly more complicated because of the

了解和自信心。

many grape varieties and producing countries but it’s not impossible to make it simple and accessible. How about light and refreshing, soft

在眾多菜式中,香港人最常吃的應該都是中菜,但很可惜,會提供葡萄酒

and fruity, chewy and spicy, bold and savoury? These are descriptors

的中菜館都不多,即使有,都是些比較高檔次的餐館。我希望有一天普遍

that any consumer can grasp and imagine.

的餐廳都會提供葡萄酒酒單,事實上,酒單不需要太長或太多選擇,只需

We don’t have a wine culture but we can develop one. We love food

甚麼品種或來自甚麼國家,但他一定嚐得出那酒的品質是好是壞。其實提

and we understand flavour pairings—look at all the different kinds of

供良好品質葡萄酒,不但能夠增加營業額,更重要的是能夠留住客人,使

chilli sauce we have. So food is the logical key to introduce wine to

他成為你的長期客戶,可惜有很多餐廳都不明白這一個顯淺易懂的道理。

精選出 6 至 8 款優質的酒便可。品質是非常重要,因為客人就算分不出酒是

consumers. But not those stiff, technical pairings that again scare people off. Fongyee Walker, a friend and wine consultant based in

要推廣葡萄酒文化需要業界人士通力合作,只有這樣才可維持一個健康良

Beijing, says that the Chinese always describe a meal as being

好的市場,有利整個酒界的持份者。 20 年前,香港的咖啡文化尚未流行,

comfortable or uncomfortable. They like enjoying food with friends and

但今日的咖啡館、咖啡文化郤比比皆是,更成為很多港人生活的一部份,

without worrying too much about manners. Food and wine pairing

我相信假以時日,葡萄酒一樣會風行,成為餐桌上的不可缺少的一環。

gives an excuse for consumers to try wine in a relaxed environment and build their confidence.

可惜篇幅有限,我先在此暫停一下。下一期,我將會進一步跟大家談談香 港葡萄酒市場及喜好,再見!

We eat Chinese meals most of the time but, sadly, not many midmarket Chinese restaurants offer wine. I hear lots of excuses, but I sincerely wish and hope that Chinese restaurants will one day soon realize the potential of having wine on the menu. The wine list doesn’t need to be long and winding, six to eight is adequate to start with, but the wine must be of good quality. People may not be able to tell the difference between wine varieties, but they know when a wine is not good. For me, a wine by the glass programme is the ideal way to start. It’s all about quality, not quantity. And in fact a few pioneer outlets have already demonstrated that having wine available not only increases their turnover but also customers’ loyalty. We didn’t drink cappuccino 20 years ago, yet now the espresso machine is a trendy home appliance. I believe it’s only a matter of time before wine will be a normal item on the dinner table. After all, it’s a much better match for food than lemon tea!

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018

Corner 2013

December

City’s 1st Hong Kong Wine Registration Scheme launched by the HKQAA 香港品質保證局推出全港首個「香港葡萄酒註冊計劃」

A

t the HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair, the Hong Kong Quality Assurance Agency (HKQAA) launched the first Hong Kong Wine Registration Scheme.

receive a Confirmation of Registration Letter and be entitled to display the HKWR Scheme Mark at retail stores, advertisement and printed matter. At the moment, 22 organizations are registered under the scheme.

After the abolition of wine duties in 2008, the HKQAA launched the Wine Storage Management Systems Certification Scheme in 2009 which follows a well-proven and internationally recognised methodology that gives an objective and impartial attestation of the ability of management systems to deliver wine storage, transportation and retail services that fulfill good management practice accepted by wine industry experts. It ensures that good industry standards are applied, improving the competitive edge of the industry, which will ultimately benefit consumers and wine collectors. After 4 years of launching, nearly 60 certificates are awarded as qualified vendors.

In 2014, the HKQAA is going to launch the second phase, which allowed certified organization to use the Mark Label with unique QR code (to be launched in 2014) on their merchandises, which consumers can scan with their smartphones to confirm that the wine handled by a registered organisation.

With so many options now in the market, wine lovers, collectors and traders are becoming more and more prudent in choosing the right wine with the right background, the source of wine could be a key factor when consumers make their buying decisions. Responding to the market need, HKQAA launched the HKQAA – Hong Kong Wine Registration Scheme (HKWR). The first such programme in Hong Kong, it aims to recognise an organisation’s capability to maintain and retrieve records of wines they handle for enhanced consumers’ confidence, and to encourage storing wine in a controlled storage environment, such as under the Wine Storage Management Systems certified facilities. In the first phase of the scheme, successfully registered organisations will

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“ The Hong Kong Wine Registration Scheme will enables wine businesses to demonstrate their commitment to providing wines with identifiable sources to their customers, which will help enhancing the registered orgnisation’s brand image and reputation. We hope this programme will, in the long run, be the standard-setter for industry professionalism and strengthen the role of Hong Kong as a wine trading hub in the region,” commented by Dr. Michael P. M. Lam, C.E.O. of HKQAA. 在剛結束的香港國際美酒展上,香港品質保證局舉行了全港首個 「香港葡萄酒註冊計劃」的啟動儀式。 隨著香港於2008年撤銷葡萄酒稅後,香港品質保證局於2009年便 推出了「葡萄酒儲存管理體系認證」,計劃透過專業及統一的儲 酒標準,讓業界有能力提供合適的儲運設施,以保護酒的品質和 價值,加強消費者及葡萄酒收藏人士的信心,至今發出的證書已 近60張。 隨著市場上的選擇越來越多,葡萄酒愛好者和酒商均越來越謹慎 選購其心頭好,而葡萄酒的來源便是一個重要的考慮因素。

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為回應市場的需求,香港品質保證局推出「香港品質保證局── 香港葡萄酒註冊計劃」,旨在確認機構能夠妥善保存及翻查可識 別的葡萄酒來源記錄,以提升顧客的信心,並且鼓勵機構將葡萄 酒存放在適當的儲存環境中,如已獲取「葡萄酒儲存管理體系認 證」的設施。這是香港首個同類型的註冊計劃,適合葡萄酒買賣 商、批發商、酒窖、倉庫、零售商、運輸商等參與。 在計劃的第一階段,符合註冊資格的機構會獲局方發出註冊確認 信及計劃的標誌,以作宣傳之用,加強消費者信心。現時已有22 間機構參加,獲頒註冊確認書。 而在2014年,計劃的第二階段,更會推出計劃的網上���台,並向 已註冊的機構發出印有獨特QR碼的標籤,機構可將其貼在葡萄酒 酒瓶、酒盒和裝酒的酒箱上,供消費者以智能手機確認該葡萄酒 來自參加註冊計劃的機構,並取得相關資訊。 「『香港葡萄酒註冊計劃』讓機構彰顯向顧客提供可識別來源的 產品之承諾,以提升機構的品牌形象與口碑。本局期望計劃能長 遠地建立行業的專業水平,以及鞏固香港葡萄酒貿易中心的地 位。」香港品質保證局總裁林寶興博士道。 Join the HKQAA’s seminar on 17 Jan 2014(3:30pm) to learn more about the Registration and Certification Schemes! (Free admission for the seminar)

歡迎參與香港品質保證局於17/1/2014(下午3:30)舉辦的 註冊及認證計劃簡介會!(是次簡介會免費參加) Enquiry : Ms Fanny Li, (852)2202 9323, fanny.li@hkqaa.org www.hkqaa.org/hkwr

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Hong Kong Wine Registration Scheme– List of Registered Companies 香港葡萄酒註冊計劃–註冊機構名單

A Plus Wine Cellar Co Ltd. Abbelio Wines Anrise-Imc Limited Double Win Corporation Ltd. Elizabeth Wines Ltd. Fabuwine Development Ltd. Golden Group Wine (Operated By Golden Group Holdings Ltd.) Golden Vintage International Limited Grand Wine Cellar Joisen Logistics Limited MBL Wine Group Limited Modern Wine Cellar Limited Omtis Fine Wines Schmidt Marketing (Consumer Products) Limited Schmidt Marketing (H.K.) Limited Sunfun (China) Ltd. The Chateau Cru Wine Shop Watson’s Wine Wickens & Co., Limited Wine High Club Wineworld Limited Winpo Asia Ltd.

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Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or 2013 Christmas Special Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or 2013 聖誕節禮盒

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his Christmas Champagne Drappier has released the 2013 Carte d’Or gift set, designed by award-winning graphic designer Benny Au, letting everyone celebrate the most joyful festivals with their loved-ones. The Carte d’Or gift set is presented in a unique triangular shape, symbolizing the close relationship between the climate, soil and winemaker. It is also available in five colours, each representing the significant steps in the making of Champagne Drappier: white - the chalk soil in Urville that helps create the perfect growing condition for pinot noir; brown – for the grape vines where the life of the champagne truly begins; green – for the leaves cultivated in the calcareous vineyard; purple – the fine grapes of pinot noir as in family tradition; and yellow – the definitive sign of the rich quince flavor found in the Champagne. Champagne Drappier has a long history and traditions, which can date back more than 200 years. In order to let the terroir and cultivation be correctly expressed, Champagne Drappier practices a natural and gentle method of vinification. To this day, they use the smallest percentage of sulphur in the profession. Their sugared liqueur is aged in oak casks, then in demijohns, for more than 10 years to increase their concentration. Their Carte d’Or is a blend of 75% pinot noir, 15% chardonnay and 10% pinot meunier. It has an expressive aroma that announces a powerful and complex palate with a characteristic note of quince jelly. There will be only 1,200 sets of Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or 2013 Christmas Edition released in Hong Kong, at HK$370 per set and is available at locations including City Super, Rare & Fine Wines, Vins Gallery and Wai Shing Wine & Spirits.

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今個聖誕節,Champagne Drappier連同著名平面設計師區德誠 (Benny Au)為大家帶來別具創意的「Carte d ’ Or 2013聖誕禮 盒」,讓你與摯愛親友歡渡佳節。 禮盒以獨特的三角形設計,分別代表著天氣、土壤和釀酒師的緊 密關係。設計師透過禮盒頂部的獨特質感,標致出木材對造紙及 釀酒技術同樣重要。另外,禮盒套裝共有五種顏色選擇,每種顏 色分別標誌著Champagne Drappier釀製過程中的五個重要元素﹣ 白色象徵Urville地區的白堊土,為pinot noir提供最合適的生長的 環境;啡色代表葡萄樹的藤蔓,是釀製香檳的來源;綠色代表石 灰質葡萄園內的綠葉;紫色代表Drappier優良傳統的pinot noir; 而黃色則是香檳中濃郁的榅木孛香味。 Champagne Drappier擁有200多年的歷史和傳統,而且對釀造過 程中的每一個細節都非常嚴謹。為了把風土和葡萄栽培特色盡情 展現,品牌一直採用天然、溫和的方式釀製香檳。時至今日,他 們依然是在釀製過程中採用最少硫磺的香檳酒莊。他們會將加入 了糖份的基酒(sugared liqueur)放在大型橡木桶內陳年達10年 以上,目的是增加香檳的濃度。Carte d ’Or由75﹪pinot noir、15 ﹪chardonnay和10﹪的pinot meunier調配而成。Carte d’Or具有 天然的金銅色色澤,充滿成熟的果香及木瓜果凍的獨特香氣,展 現出既有力量而且複雜的口感。 Champagne Drappier 「Carte d’Or 2013聖誕禮盒」於City Super、Rare & Fine Wines、Vins Gallery、Wai Shing Wine & Spirits等有售,限量1,200套,每套售價為港幣$370元。

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Winebeast opening!

Winebeast —首間於灣仔心臟地段首家葡萄酒專門店

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inebeast was founded with the aim of providing Hong Kong wine enthusiasts with choices of an extensive selection of wine, at a reasonable price. It servesup over 400 labels of wine from France, Spain, Italy and the New World. Among those, there are more than 60 items exclusive to Winebeast. It also provides a range of biodynamic and eco-friendly natural brands such as Domaine Olivier Guyot and Domaine Vacheron.

tips and assistance for customers.

All wines available at Winebeast are sourced from reputable producers or suppliers and are kept in temperature controlled environment. Moreover, in-house sommeliers are eager to provide

另外,Winebeast的葡萄酒均 由酒莊直接購入,並保存在溫 度穩定的環境之中。同時,駐 店的品酒師會為客人提供專業 意見,務求讓客人挑選到心目 中最滿意的葡萄酒。

Winebeast是一家的葡萄酒 精品店,目標是要凝聚葡 萄酒愛好者,以及讓顧客用 滿意的價格品嚐到滿意的美 酒。Winebeast提供400多種 來自法國、西班牙、意大利和 新世界國家的紅白葡萄酒及精 緻香檳,其中60多個品牌更 只在Winebeast獨家推出。店 內同時供應多款天然或生物動 力葡萄酒品牌,包括Domaine Oliver Guyot和Domaine Vacheron等。

Winebeast Address: G /F, 49 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, HK Tel: 2804 1318 Website: www.wine-beast.com

X’mas

Fabulous Offer

Net purchase over $800, FREE 1pc of voi_la! Corkscrew or Net purchase over $1,500, FREE 1btl of Bahia de Rosas Brut Reserve or Net purchase over $1,500, FREE 1btl of Red Heart Reserve Shiraz 2009 Central

Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central

TEL: 2259-5036

Sheung Wan

Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West

TEL: 2547-1515

Wan Chai

Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road

TEL: 2598-0562

Tsim Sha Tsui

G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue

TEL: 2312-7070

Kwun Tong

Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road

TEL: 2351-1302

Hotline: 2586-3001 voilaclub@crvanguard.com.hk 020-021_Cru Corner_drappier.indd 2

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Winebank - more than a private cellar! 名酒軒:一站式私人酒窖!

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inebank provides you a series of wine related services. For instance, 24-hour temperature and humidity controlled personal wine cellars, tasting and lounge area, multi-function banquet room booking, and professional wine delivery and collection services and so. What is more, Winebank’ s locataion is convenient and sound facilities. Sure Winebank can satisfy various of wine lovers.

提供一站式酒窖服務的名酒軒經已開張,並且提供多類服 務,包括24小時恒溫恒濕私人酒窖、品酒專區及戶外空中 花園、租用宴會場地以及專業運送酒類等多種服務。而且 名酒軒位置方便、設施齊備,相信定可滿足一眾愛好佳釀 的朋友。

Winebank Address: L evel 20, One Mid Town, 11 Hoi Shing Road, Tsuen Wan, NT Website: www.winebank.com.hk

The Society of Wine Educators(SWE) is organizing CSW and CSS examination in HK

國際葡萄酒教育家協會(SWE)將在本港舉行CSW及CSS認証試

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he Society of Wine Educators (SWE) will hold 2 public certification examinations on 24th March, 2014 (Saturday) in Hong Kong, including CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) and CSS (Certified Specialist of Spirits).

國際葡萄酒教育家協會(SWE)將於2014年3月24日在香港擧 行2個公開的葡萄酒資格認証試,分別為:CSW(Certified Specialist of Wine-葡萄酒專家認証試)及CSS(Certified Specialist of Spirits-烈酒專家認証試)。

Both certifications are internationally recognized and highly regarded in North American and Japan. The number of CSW and CSS holders in Hong Kong also keeps increasing. There is no prerequisite for signing up, but potential candidate is advised to have attained WSET L3 or equivalent. Both CSW and CSS are rigorous examinations. Successful candidates are entitled to add the appropriate post-nominal to their professional signatures.

兩個資格均在全世界尤其北美洲和日本廣受承認,連本港也愈 來愈多人獲取這兩項資格。申請CSW和CSS沒有先決條件,但 最好有WSET L3或同等程度以上CSW和CSS考試將同時進 行,所以考生每次只能報考其中一項。

Society of Wine Educators was founded as a non-profit organization in the USA in 1974. The Society’s goal is to foster and promote the professional education and development of the individual in particular. There are more than 2000 members worldwide in 17 countries and regions. The Hong Kong Chapter holds regular wine tasting workshops and dinners for members and the public. For registration please go to https://societyofwineeducators.secure.force.com/Calendar. The local contact is Mr. Houghton Lee at (852) 90180816 (htnlee.swehm@ yahoo.com). Registration deadline is 7th March.

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國際葡萄酒教育家協會(SWE)於1974年在美國成立,目 的是建立一個讓葡萄酒教育者交流和提升專業水平的非謀利團 體。現在全球會員2000多人,分佈在1 7個國家和地區。香港分會則於200 9年成立,定期舉行各種葡萄酒工作坊 和晚宴。報名請上本會總會網址: https:// societyofwineeducators.secure.force. com/Calendar。如有問題可以聯絡香港 分會的李厚敦先生, (852) 90180816 (電郵: htnlee.swehm@yahoo.com)。截止報名日 期為3月7日。

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Volkswagen Hong Kong new flagship showroom - New Innovations! 創新科技– Volkswagen灣仔旗艦店開幕

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olkswagen Hong Kong new flagship showroom has opened in Wanchai. To enhance customer experience, it furnished with brand new technologies and facilities. The showroom has 11,000 square-foot and can display up to 14 cars with five innovative technologies. Including Advanced Swipe Motion Technology (V- Motion); Ultrasound Pointcast Technology iDV tablets (V- Snap); Projector corridor (V- Tunnel); muli-touch tables (V- Table) and interactive showroom window (V- Window). With these technologies, customers will have innovative and interactive experience in the Volkswagen showroom. Volkswagen Hong Kong位於灣仔的全新旗艦店已經開 幕。為了使顧客有更佳的購車體驗,店內更融入創新 數碼化科技,並加上獨特的設施和服務。旗艦陳列室 佔地達11,000平方呎,可同時展出多達14輛汽車。另外 Volkswagen引入了五大創新數碼技術,包括將動作感應 科技應的巨型屏幕牆(V-Motion);超聲波感應平板電腦 (V-Snap) ;智能感應投影牆(V-Tunnel) ;多觸式屏幕 桌(V-Table)以及互動櫥窗(V-Window)。透過這些創 新技術,顧客不論是觀賞Volkswagen資訊影片或是挑選 心儀車款,均能擁有智能互動體驗和震撼的視覺享受。

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Address: S  hop D & E, G/F., Mass Mutal Tower, 38 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai, HK Tel: 3698 9618

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Text : Eddie Chui

Vintage 2008 Collection 奔富2008年份限量珍藏系列

With the heritage of 170 years of winemaking craftsmanship and the excellent weather condition in 2008, Penfolds Grange 2008 is an exceptional wines that is highly rated over the world. It become one the great vintage in the Australian wine history. Besides Grange, which is aged for 5 years

Penfolds Grange 2008

before releasing, other top Bin series of vintage 2008 has been released for some time, some of which has already been sold out as well. Penfolds is now releasing a limited Penfolds Vntage 2008 Collection grift boxset with the following top wines from 2008, which is highly collectable if you missed any of these before: 奔富酒莊傳承170年的釀酒技藝加上2008上佳的氣候及土壤條件造就了榮獲多項滿分

100分評價Grange 2008而成為了澳洲葡萄酒的經典年份。其實除了推出不久,在酒 莊醞釀了五年的Grange以外,其他幾瓶頂級酒款的2008年酒釀早己登陸市場,甚至 已經售罄。 奔富最近全球限量的2008年份珍藏系列為收藏家獻上四款經典酒款,配以精緻的木製 禮盒,極具收藏價值。當中包括以下酒款:

Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008

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Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2008

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Text : Eddie Chui

A Great OPPORTUNITY to GET some great Bordeaux Vintages 醉人美酒波爾多 - 偉大年份入貨良機

Château Lascombes

After a year of hard work, it is time to meet with friends for some great Christmas parties!

Château Cos D’Estournel 2006

Besides champagne, Bordeaux is another great choice to help you enjoy celebrating

St. Estèphe, 2nd Growth

the festival, especially some of the great grand crus. In the past, people thought that only

$1,088 (RP94)

Bordeaux clarets aged for more than 10 years were drinkable, but it is not the case anymore. In the last few years, we have seen a lot of great vintages which are very approachable with a

Château Rieussec 2009

just a few years’ ageing, or even immediately on release! Of course a mature Bordeaux is still

Sauternes

our first choice.

$600 (RP95-97)

Sourcing directly from Bordeaux, Jebsen Fine Wines has been offering grand crus for over

Château Figeac 2005

20 years. They also have HKQAA certified warehousing and logistics services designed

St. Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

specifically for fine wines. They are now offering special prices and a great deal for our readers,

$1,240 (RP90)

with free delivery when ordering just 2 bottles, and, when ordering a mixed case of 12 bottles, a free gift of a delicately crafted JFW wooden box.

Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2009 Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

We would recommend the Chevalier 2009 Rouge and Lascombes 2010 in their offers. Both

$588 (RP95)

are derived from excellent Bordeaux vintages. As mentioned above, they are already very accessible now with a little decanting.

Château La Lagune 2010 Haut Médoc, 3rd Grand Cru Classé

經過一年的努力工作,每到聖誕,又是節日及狂歡的日子,三五知己聚在一起,最重要的除了高貴的香

$488 (RP94)

檳,當然少不了來自波爾多的優質佳釀。間中豪一下開幾瓶列級酒莊的酒釀也不錯。有很多人都說波爾 多酒都需要先放個十年八載才可以入口,在十多年前這句話可能沒有差錯,但是縱觀這三、四年,新剛

Château Lascombes 2010

推出的年份酒釀,都可以馬上飲用,不會如過去的新酒般清澀粗糙。當然經過歲月洗禮的話會更加圓潤

Margaux 2nd Grand Cru Classé

可愛。

$888 (RP96)

一直在香港銷售名莊酒的捷成洋酒,直接入口銷售名莊酒超過二十年。擁有由HKQAA認證,專門存放

Fine Wine的貨倉及物流隊伍,提供最好的服務。他們趕在聖誕推出一系列的名莊酒特惠,只要訂購以 下酒款兩瓶,便可獲免費送貨服務,而訂購十二瓶(可混合款式),更可獲免費的精美木盒一個。 在他們的推廣中,我們推薦Chevalier 2009紅葡萄酒及Lascombes 2010酒款。2009及2010固然是 波爾多偉大、精彩的年份,而且就如我之前所說,他們即使是現在飲用,只要有足夠的透氣時間,也是 十分優秀的。

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Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / email: victorrabot@jebsen.com 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui) / email: vanessachui@jebsen.com 2926 2269 (Paul Yeung) / email: paulyeung@jebsen.com

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Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2009 Domaine de Chevalier is one of the good-value grand crus in PessacLéognan, comparable to many of the more pricy châteaux. Its wines have improved very much in recent years and the whites are always well received by wine lovers and critics alike. 2009 is also a great vintage for the region, producing powerful, concentrated yet balanced wines. Domaine de Chevalier 雖然不是 1855 列級酒莊之一,但也是 PessacLéognan 的Grand Cru 之一。近年酒質不斷進步,不論紅葡萄酒還是白葡萄 酒,都可比美同區其他價格更高的酒莊。2009年的Pessac-Léognan酒區是屬 於非常優秀的一年,不少酒莊都能受惠理想的天氣,釀出美味可口的佳釀。

Domaine de Chevalier

Château Lascombes 2010 Château Lascombes from Margaux had a wonderful vintage in 2010, and is highly praised by wine critics with top scores from RP. Some wine lovers prefer Pauillac wines because of their power and richness, while Margaux is viewed as being more about elegance and finesse. But for the great years of 2009 and 2010, Margaux has the best of both, with the great concentration, richness and structure, but still very elegant with refined tannins. I remember during the en Primeur, its price went as high as $1,000 per bottle. With the calming of the Chinese market, I think it’s time for cellaringup these great Bordeaux vintages. 而另一所位於Margaux產區的Château Lascombes在2010年也受暖和的極佳天氣影,評價之高是歷年少 見的,Margaux產區的酒一給人較柔弱的感覺,一向喜歡較澎湃的酒迷,例如喜歡Pauillac區的朋友可能未 必會喜歡,但在這些2009、2010的絕佳年份,Margaux區的酒便會在優雅細緻當中多了些雄偉的結構,也 就是剛柔並重了。在推出En Primeur的時候,2010的Lascombes曾被抄至超過1,000元一瓶,隨著這一年 中國的波爾多酒炒賣風潮略為退減的時候,我想,現在也是買入這些絕佳年份的波爾多佳釀的最佳時候了。

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Cover Story

I like art, and wine is also a form of art, which I also like.

我熱愛藝術,而對我來說,酒也是藝術的一種,也是我所喜愛的。

The dream comes true— the Legend in Napa 夢境成真 - 納帕谷的百年傳奇 Text : Eddie Chui

// Image : HenryCK // Special Thanks : Nobu, Intercontinental Hong Kong

Judgment of Paris in 1976 was surely a turning point for the wine

還 記 得 1976 年 的 Judgment of Paris 嗎 ? 當 年 是 轟 動 全 球 酒 界 , 也

industry in Napa and in the world. Behind this, there is a legendary

是納帕谷酒業的轉捩點之一。但在背後其實早有不少人在那裡開拓

of Californian wine pioneers that everyone should know, Mr. Robert

著 美 國 葡 萄 酒 的 夢 想 , 最 備 受 尊 崇 的 必 定 是 納 帕 谷 的 傳 奇 , Robert

Mondavi. His wife, Margrit Mondavi was in Hong Kong for a series

Mondavi。 Robert Mondavi的妻子 Margrit Mondavi剛來到香港參加

of events to celebrate the 100 years anniversary of the birth of

紀念 Robert Mondavi 100 週年的各項活動,我們在香港代理捷成洋

Robert Mondavi. Arranged by Jebsen Fine Wines, the distributor

酒的安排下跟這位活力充沛的女士說說生活跟藝術,談談葡萄酒與人

in Hong Kong, we have a nice little chat with Mrs. Mondavi about

生。

art, wine and life.

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About Wine Born in Switzerland, Margrit immersed herself in art, getting involved in drawing and painting. Wine was never her focus until she settled in Napa during the 60’s. “I was trying to raise fund promoting the art of music to the young community. After organizing a concert for the Charles Krug Winery, I was offered a job as the sales and wine tour guide at the winery. I started learning more about wine and become so passionate to go to wine school as I treated wine solely as kind of a drink before. What I wanted to do is to share good wines with my friends and to tell visitors about this great wine county of Napa Valley. It is just another form of art! I love the harvest time and the smell of the fermenting grapes.” She later joined the Robert Mondavi Winery as tour guides and then a public relations officer. It was where she met Robert Mondavi and the romance began… 葡萄酒 生於瑞士,Margrit鐘情於藝術,也喜愛音樂。至於葡萄酒,她從來沒有 太在意,直至在60年代當她落戶在納帕谷。她憶述道:「那時候我正為 一個本地的藝術團體籌募經費,希望在青少年的社群中推動音樂文化。 在為Charles Krug酒莊舉辦第一個音樂活動後,酒莊的負責人罕有地聘用 了我作為銷售人員及酒莊的導遊。於是我便開始學習更多有關葡萄酒的 知識,並愈來愈投入到葡萄酒的世界當中,甚至走到葡萄酒學校裡去學 習。以前葡萄酒只不過是我日常生活其中一款飲料。我開始喜歡跟我的 朋友分享美味優秀的酒釀,而對於來到納帕谷的訪客,我更想讓他們知 道這是一個偉大的葡萄酒產區。葡萄酒就好像是另一種藝術。我喜歡在 收成的時候到葡萄園、酒莊,也喜歡正在發酵的葡萄所散發的味道。」 之後她更轉到Robert Mondavi酒莊工作,作為酒莊導遊,之後更成為公關 主任,更是遇上摯愛的地方⋯⋯

Friend and Lover After Margrit started dating Robert, she took him to his first opera, schlepped him to museums, opening his eyes to art when Robert was so focus in wine. “Our love is full of passions and Robert was always exciting. We enjoy our lives, which is also challenging. I was the person who brought art into Robert’ s life, including the sculpture in the cellar and all other art pieces around the winery, because he had no time. We started some cultural projects like the summer concert, a music school and cooking school, in which I think those were all related to wine. And we loved to travel. When Robert was eightytwo we bought two worldwide tickets for unlimited first class travel, so we went everywhere: Beijing, Tokyo, Kenya and every corner of the world.” Margrit also feels thankful for Robert who is also a great mentor of her and gave her full support to make her ideas tangible. 知己情人 當Margrit跟Robert交往後,她帶他去看歌劇,又結伴到藝術館 等。Margrit希望打開Robert的眼睛,了解藝術跟葡萄酒文化的共通處, 因為他把精神都全部灌注到釀酒當中。「我們的愛是充滿熱情的,而 他總是會令人興奮不己。在享受著生活的同時,每天都充滿挑戰。我把 藝術文化注入他的生命當中,把不同的雕塑放到酒窖中央,也把其他藝 術品放到酒莊的每個角落。我們更開始了不同的文化活動,例如在酒莊 舉行的夏日音樂會、音樂學校及烹飪學校等等,這些都是跟葡萄酒息息 相關的。我們最愛一起旅行,當他八十二歲時,我們買了能環球旅遊的 頭等機票,走遍北京、東京、肯亞及世界每個角落。」Margrit也很感謝 Robert,因為他除了是最好的情人、也是位良師,他鼓勵Margrit把她的 想法實踐,把夢想變成真實。

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Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010 100 years anniversary limited magnum bottle

Pleasures Besides love and wine, Margrit says pleasures come from her life. “I treat everyday as a gift. I enjoy painting, I enjoy cooking, and I enjoy traveling.”

生命的喜悅

When she is painting, she is capturing the grace of life as well as happy

除了愛及葡萄酒,Margrit在生活中還得到其他不同的喜悅。「我想每一天

moments with family and friends. When she cooks, she is going to share

都是天賜的禮物。我喜愛繪畫,也喜歡烹飪及旅行。」當她繪畫時,把生

with everyone. “When I was seeing Robert offering just cook cuts to his dear

活最美麗的時刻,跟至愛、家人渡過的快樂時光透過畫筆跟別人分享。她

guests in the winery, I volunteered to roast a chicken for them. Then I was

下廚的時候也希望別人嚐到最好的滋味。「最初期的時候,我在酒莊看到

asked to do that every day and then for him.” Traveling was really enjoyable

Robert只拿一些火腿、芝士等簡單的食物去招待到酒莊的貴賓,我便提議

for Margrit and Robert because they can really get away from the bustle

讓我做一道烤雞給他們。自此他便經常叫我幫他預備訪客的午餐。」旅遊

at the winery, especially for Robert. “It also opens his eyes at work that he

是他們夫妻兩人最享受的時刻,因為出門便再不用記掛著酒莊的工作,因

encouraged his team to travel to Europe, and we are the most active in

為Robert在納帕谷的時候實在太專注於工作上。「而且旅行也讓他放開眼

having projects with wineries from France and Italy.” You never realize the

界,他十分鼓勵員工到國外交流,而我們的酒莊也是最多跟法國及意大利

charming, energetic lady sitting in front of you is at the age of 87, who still

合作發展項目的酒莊之一。」到此,我實在不能想像眼前如此精神、充滿

travel a lot every year.

活力的女士己年介八十七,而且每年仍不斷到處遊歷。

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Margrit has published a sketchbook recently, named “Margrit Mondavi’s Sketchbook: Reflections on Wine, Food, Art, Family, Romance, and Life”. It is a really enjoyable book with many of her painting, photos, recipes and her works, all about her life and her beloved Mr. Mondavi and family. Starting at around 11am, I never realized that it was already lunchtime to enjoy some wines from Robert Mondavi Winery. Really hope to meet Margrit soon in Napa! Margrit剛推出了一本畫冊:《Margrit Mondavi’s Sketchbook: Reflections on Wine, Food, Art, Family, Romance, and Life》,裡面不單有她的畫作、舊照,更有其他的作品、菜譜。不少得 的當然還有人生裡的故事片段,還有她的摯愛Mondavi先生及家人。從十一點開始的訪問, 不經不覺已到了午餐的時間,也是時候品嚐Robert Mondavi酒莊的佳釀。熱切期待下次再到 納帕谷,跟Margrit碰面。

Special Offer 特別呈獻: To celebrate the 100 years anniversary of the birth of Robert Mondavi, Jebsen Fine Wines is launching the following limited offers of Robert Mondavi Winery wines with some library release of the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1992: 為紀念Robert Mondavi一百週年生忌,捷成洋酒特別推出以下優惠,包括限量的酒莊舊年份存釀Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1992:

Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($436) A Classic Cabernet from Oakville which shows all the wonderful elements with fresh blackfruit character as the backbone, complemented with a touch of black pepper and bay leaves notes. It finishs with toasty oak and balanced acidity. Very good to enjoy now, especially with meals, but will show its beauty after a few years of ageing.

Robert

Mondavi

Cabernet

Sauvignon

Reserve 2009 ($939) The Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve by Robert Mondavi is always on the top of Napa classic claret. The 2009 vintage consists of 80% of grapes coming from the To Kalon vineyards, regarded as the “First Growth” vineyard in Napa. Its great elegance is supported by intense, rich fruitiness, which is complemented by touch of

典型的優質Oakville Cabernet,以美味的黑果味作主

coffee and oak character, and with a long and

幹,帶點黑胡椒及香葉的味道,收結帶烤烘的香味,

balanced finishing. It is still very young, but is

酸度平衡。現在享用十分美味,更適合佐餐飲用,可

highly approachable given two hours to breathe.

再陳年一陣子,讓她展現成熟美。 Robert Mondavi的Caberbet Sauvignon Reserve 一向都是Napa的典範,2009年的酒釀當中有 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1992 ($939) After more than 20 years, this Cabernet Reserve start to mature, but it is still very young with intense and rich body, comparable with the highly rated 1991. Fruit character is still young and fresh, with touch of mature

高達80%的葡萄便是來自被譽為Napa「First Growth」的To Kalon葡萄園,保持著優雅的風 格、鮮明的果香、帶咖啡及橡木桶的香氣,收 結悠長。雖然2009年的酒現在仍然非常年輕, 但並不遙不可及,只要醒酒2小時後即變得十 分誘人。

aroma of cedar, tobacco and tealeaves. Tannins are silky and soft. It is quite closed on opening, but will open up on breathing for a few hours. 經過20多年的陳釀,現在仍然年輕,可以看到酒體 還是那麼豐厚,不會比評價卓越的1991年差。果香 仍然鮮美,帶陣陣成熟酒釀的雪松、煙草、茶葉的香 氣,入口單寧已變得十分柔順。如果沒有好好透氣, 可能會覺得收斂,但經過數小時透氣後,味道慢慢盛 放。

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Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / email: victorrabot@jebsen.com 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui) / email: vanessachui@jebsen.com 2926 2269 (Paul Yeung) / email: paulyeung@jebsen.com

5/12/13 4:49 PM


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The World of

Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we are doing an exclusive tasting of wines from the Robert Mondavi Winery with other top wines from California, Bordeaux and Burgundy. 每期的葡萄酒世界我們都走遍世界各地,發掘精彩的酒釀及故事跟大家分享。 今期我們會品評Robert Mondavi的酒釀,跟加州、波爾多及勃艮第的葡萄酒作比拼。

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The World of

Wines Text: Eddie Chui Images: Blue Sin Special Thanks: Hip Cellar

The Marvellous Continues Robert Mondavi Winery When Robert Mondavi Winery was sold in 2004, everyone was

當Robert Mondavi酒莊在2004年出售以後,大家都對這在納帕谷充滿

worried about the quality of this legendary winery in Napa. But after

傳奇的酒莊有不少疑問,擔心會否就此沒落。但 10年後我們見到的是

10 years, we can see the winery is making great progress, focusing

酒莊仍然不斷進步,而且更能找到新的方向,酒質精益求精。今年他

on their new direction, which is QUALITY. This year, Jebsen Fine

們的香港代理捷成洋酒,邀請了Constellation Academy of Wine的總

Wines, their sole agent in Hong Kong, has invited Mark de Vere MW,

監, Mark de Vere MW,來港舉辦了一次由業內專業人士參加的品酒

the Director of Constellation Academy of Wine, to host a blind tasting

活動,找來世界不同的優秀葡萄酒來跟 Robert Mondavi的酒釀一起,

in Hong Kong. Professionals were invited to join this stylistic blind

來一次蒙瓶品試。

tasting with other first growths and top wines from around the world.

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Wines A panel formed with elites coming from different sectors like sommeliers, wine educators, wine critics and our editorial team was invited to join this tasting. Mark pointed out that, the purpose of this tasting was not to pick out the best or highly rated wines, but to let us know the position of Californian wines, including Mondavi’s wines, among the top wines in the world. Mark has chosen 10 wines and tasted in 3 flights, “we are not to pick up the winners, but to know more about the difference of these wines.” The first flight was 4 white wines including Napa and Grand Cru Burgundy. The second was 3 pinot noir from Napa and again, Grand Cru Burgundy. The third flight was Cabernet Sauvignon dominating reds from Napa and a first growth Bordeaux. The following are the comments on these flights: 來自酒店業界的品酒師精英、葡萄酒導師、酒評人、我們的編輯團隊及其他業內人士組 成是次評審團。他們在業界經驗豐富,具專業的知識。Mark指出,這次蒙瓶試飲的目的 不是要去判斷那瓶酒得分最高,而是讓大家了解Mondavi的酒質在世界的位置到那裡。 Mark選了十款葡萄酒,分三個環節品嚐,他說道:「重點不是誰勝誰負,我們是要了解 每瓶酒的特性。」第一部是四瓶白葡萄酒,分別來自納帕谷及一瓶是來自特級田的勃艮 第;第二節是三瓶來自納帕谷及勃艮第的Pinot Noir葡萄酒,而最後壓軸的是三瓶來自納 帕谷及法國波爾多的一級酒莊,以Cabernet Sauvignon為主的酒釀。以下是各款酒釀的 評論:

Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011 This is an iconic wine with the name created by Mr. Robert Mondavi, inspired by the famous appellation of Pouilly Fumé which also produce Sauvignon Blanc. It brought great success to the winery. This Reserve Fumé Blanc has great richness and intensity of fruit, with nicely integrated notes of oak. It is fermented in French barrels with occasional stirring of lees, which brings the smooth texture and finishing. Grapes are sourced from the great To Kalon vineyard, especially from the 50 years-old vines of T Block and a little bit from the 70 yearsold vines of the famous I Block. It comes with less than 2,000 cases each year. 這是酒莊引以為傲的酒款,也是由酒莊創辦人 Robert Mondavi所想的主意,把以 Sauvignon

Blanc釀造的白葡萄酒,以法國最有名氣的另一Sauvignon Blanc產區Pouilly Fumé命名。這創 意受到市場所喜愛,成為酒莊當年的皇牌酒款之一。而這瓶Reserve級數的Fumé Blanc,果香 豐厚,帶有橡木桶的氣息,在法國橡木桶中進行發酵,再陳年約一年,其間也會攪動酒渣,帶 來順滑的口感。葡萄主要來自To Kalon葡萄園中,T Block區塊中約50多年的老機葡萄藤,及 少量來自更老,有差不多70年的I Block的老樹葡萄。產量少於2,000箱。

Kurt Wong, Head Sommelier, Fuk Lam Moon Group Pale Lemon colour, it shows hints of lemon, gooseberry and guava on the nose and character of mineral. The rich fruity palate of the wine is well balanced with the acidity, which brings a lengthy finish with integrated oak. 淡檸檬黃,帶有檸檬、醋栗及番石榴的香氣,並帶點礦物的氣 息。入口果香豐厚,良好的酸度讓整體更平衡。收結悠長,橡木 味和諧融和到酒體中。

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Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve 2011 This flight is made up of 2 Napa Chardonnay coming from the same sub-region of Carneros, the Robert Mondavi and Kistler Durell Vineyard. The other one is a grand cru Burgundy of Corton-Charlemagne 2011. Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve is coming from the best Hyde vineyard and is fermented in French barrels to add complexity to the wine. After aging of 8 months, the wine and lees will be transferred to neutral barrels to age for another 7 years to get the best balance. 第 二 組 三 款 白 葡 萄 酒 , 以 另 一 款 跟 R o b e r t   M o n d a v i 一 樣 , 同 樣 以 來 自 C a r n e ro s 的

Kistler   Durell   Vineyard   Chardonnay   2011 及勃艮第特級田, Louis   Latour 的 CortonCharlemagne 2011作比較。Robert Mondavi的Chardonnay Reserve,產自Carneros最好的 Hyde葡萄園,同樣在法國橡木桶中進行發酵,增加酒的複雜性。在陳年8個月後,經過篩選及 調配後,跟酒渣一同轉到中性的橡木桶再陳年七個月,取得最佳的平衡。

Jennie Mack, Managing Director of AWSEC Clear medium lemon colour, with clean nose and good intensity of stonefruit, vanilla, creamy and oaky aroma. On the palate it is dry, with medium acidity and body, good richness of stonefruit, citrus and spicy taste. Texture is creamy with long finish of floral notes, very well integrated oak with balance. 清澈的檸檬黃色,帶潔淨的香氣,濃郁的核果、香草、奶油及橡 木香。入口乾身,中等酸度及酒體,帶濃厚的核果、柑橘及香料 味。質感柔順,帶花香的悠長收結,橡木氣息和諧平衡。

Kistler Chardonnay Durell Vineyard 2011

Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2011

This is a fuller bodied chardonnay from

It is still too young to show its beauty. The

the Carneros County. It comes with rich

nose is very close, with subtle note of

fruitiness and creamy palate, and mild

fruit. Acidity is very high and the influence

acidity. A classic Napa chardonnay.

of oak is very prominent at the moment. Need more time to mature.

這瓶同樣來自納帕谷Carneros的

Chardonnay相對比較厚重。豐滿的果香,

現階段這瓶勃艮第的特級田還處於青春

帶來多一點的奶油口感,酸度一般。屬於

期,香味仍未開放,酸度高,果味收斂,收

傳統派的納帕谷Chardonnay。

結有明顯的橡木味。期待她盛開的時候。

In the 3 chardonnays we tasted, the Mondavi showed very

在三款酒當中,最平衡優雅的顯然是這瓶Mondavi,在蒙瓶試飲

good balance. Many people thought this delicate, balance and

時,不少人都誤以為這是瓶細緻、平衡的優秀勃艮第白葡萄酒,

elegant wine was the Bourgogne instead of Napa chardonnay.

反而沒有想過是納帕谷的 Chardonnay。而大部分的評審都能認

Kistler   was   showing   the   classic   Napa   style.   The   Corton

出Kistler的典型加州風格。而在品評中,勃艮第的特級田Corton

Charlemagne was not open at the moment, which sharp acidity

Charlemagne相對沒有另外兩瓶那麼討好。直到揭開答案大家才

and hollow taste, it certainly needed more time to mature.

明白為什麼他的酸度那麼尖銳,是需要歲月的撫平。

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037

Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve 2011 We can still find some very good pinot noir in Napa, although it is not the main varietal here. The pinot from cool region of Carneros has great potential. This Reserve pinot by Mondavi is very well crafted from 40 years old vine grapes which bring complexity and layered notes. With the mix of destemmed and whole bunch fermentation for the best result, the wine is then aged in new French barrels for just 9 months, bringing balanced and elegant wines showing the best of the cool climate terroir. 納帕谷雖然不是主要的 Pinot   Noir 產區,但並非代表找不到優秀的 Pinot ,例如在最南方的

Carneros產區。這瓶Mondavi的Pinot經過細心打造,經過篩選後的四十年老樹葡萄,帶來複 雜、具層次的酒體。混合使用除梗及整串葡萄發酵的酒釀,然後在全新的法國橡木桶中陳年9 個月,帶來適中、豐厚而優雅的酒體,展現出清涼地區的優雅酒質。

Nelson Chow, Chairman of Hong Kong Sommelier Association Young ruby red with purple heart. Fruit driven with intense note of red fruit like cherry with note of spiciness. Very round and fruity on the palate with good acidity bring out a balanced and lengthy finish. Well integrated oak and is very ready to drink at the moment.” 年青的寶石紅色,中央為紫色。果香濃郁,帶紅漿果如櫻桃的香 味及陣陣的香辛料氣味。入口帶果香而圓潤。良好的酸度帶來平 衡而悠長的收結。橡木味融入到酒體中,現在已非常適合飲用。

Kosta Browne “Koplen Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2010

Maison Camille Giroud Clos de Vougeot 2009

Stylistically this is a more full bodied,

Very typical grand cru Burgundy with

Napa style pinot with rich fruity notes,

great intensity and richness of fruit, touch

delicate and mild acidity. The long aging

of earthy and spicy notes. It is still very

in oak brings more complexity, pure and

young with an oaky finish. After 4 years of

focusing finish.

ageing, the tannins are very pleasant now.

屬於較豐厚的加州 Pinot傳統風格,果香爆

這瓶勃艮第的特級田可以說是屬於典型風

發力強,酸度略低,入口美味可口。長時

格。充滿濃郁的果香,帶點泥土及香辛料的

間的橡木陳年為酒體帶來更多的複雜度,

氣息,感覺仍然年輕,收結新橡木的味道仍

收結較集中、厚重。

豐富,經過四年的陳釀,單寧討人歡喜。

This flight showed more difference during the tasting. Pinot from grand

我們討論 Pinot 的時候,發現這一組的差異較為明顯。勃艮第的特級田

cru Burgundy shows the terroir with some earthy and spicy notes.

Pinot帶著明顯的風土特性,不少人都發現那略帶香料、泥土的氣息而感

And the 2 Napa pinots are very different too. Some panelists liked the

受到她的產地。而兩瓶加州 Pinot則帶來很不一樣的個性。有部分人喜歡

explosive and spicy taste of Kosta, which was fruit forward and easy to

Kosta那種爆發性的果香,個性十分奔放,容易為人所接受。而 Mondavi

understand. Mondavi is showing more feminine, with great elegance,

則展現出一份女性的美麗,以非常優雅的個性,平淡之中帶有充足的酸

paired with very good acidity. The very restrictive use of oak impressed

度,支持酒體,而且很小心地使用橡木桶,能展現出產區的 Terroir,作為

us most which let it showed the terroir.

加州酒,有這樣的想法最讓我們驚喜。

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038

The World of

Wines

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009 The last set was to see how the 2 Napa top cabernets comparing to the first growth of Bordeaux. Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is always a classic in Napa. In the 2009 vintage, 80% of the grapes is coming from the To Kalon vineyard, regarded as the “First Growth” vineyard in Napa. Its great elegance is supported by intense, rich fruitiness. The use of new French barrel add complexity and layers to this very best Napa in the world. 最後一組加州的兩瓶最優秀的酒釀對上波爾多的一級酒莊。 Robert   Mondavi   Cabernet

Sauvignon Reserve一向都是Napa的典範,2009年的酒釀當中有高達80%的葡萄便是來自被 譽為Napa「First Growth」的To Kalon葡萄園,保持著優雅的風格。豐厚的果香及酒體,能經 得起全新的法國橡木桶洗禮,並使酒質更上一個層樓。

Andy She, Sommelier of Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel Ripe fruit and dry fruit character on the nose. It is complex and fruit driven on the palate with blackfruit, vanilla, white chocolate notes. It is still very young, but comes with sweet velvety tannin that can be drank now with enough time to breathe. 帶成熟的果香及乾果的香氣。入口非常複雜而果香濃郁,帶黑漿 果、雲呢拿及白朱古力的味道。仍然十分年青,但帶甜美而柔滑 的單寧,只要有充足時間透氣,仍可現在享用。

Paul Hobbs Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 A very outstanding Cabernet, made with grapes coming from the same To Kalon vineyard as Mondavi. It is still very young with even more richness, intensity and focus. The finish is still keeping the elegant style of the To Kalon vineyard. 是瓶優秀的 Cabernet ,跟 Mondavi 同樣是 用To Kalon葡萄園的葡萄釀造,現在仍十分 年輕,比Mondavi更濃郁、集中,但仍保持 著To Kalon優雅的特質,收結良好。

The 3 bottles showed very different style, with Margaux being the most

Château Margaux 2009 2009 is one of the best vintages in recent year. It really shows more complexity and more unique nose and character of earthiness. It is also more rounded as it consists of different varietals to balance the finish. 來自法國波爾多的一級酒莊, 2009是極佳 的一年,跟納帕的酒比起來,的確多了份 複雜度,加上很重的泥土氣息,比起兩瓶 加州酒那純正的果香很易分出來。使用了 較多其他葡萄混釀,因此收結較圓潤。

三瓶酒都有非常不同的風格,Château Margaux最易被挑出來,加上是

easy to recognized, showing the typical Bordeaux terroir at this great

偉大年份,展現出波爾多的Terroir。而在Paul Hobbs及 Mondavi之間,

vintage. Paul Hobbs and Mondavi are both coming from the To Kalon

來自同一地區的To Kalon葡萄園,Paul Hobbs的主題是超豐厚的酒體及

vineyards. But Paul Hobbs showed the power, muscular structure while

結構,而 Mondavi則著重平衡及優雅。10年後可能較難分勝負,但現在

Mondavi showed the balance and elegance. It might be difficult to pick

我們會選Mondavi。

after 10 years, but we will pick the Mondavi at the moment.

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039

The World of

Wines

Mark de Vere MW

Though this tasting is conducted by the Mondavi winery, they are not emphasizing on the superiority of their wines. Instead they are showing their focus in wine quality to represent the Napa Valley in respect to other top wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux and panelists are impressed by their Reserve series of wines. During the tasting, Mark did not share only his view on these wines, but also presented the Napa Valley as a whole. It was a very good opportunity for panelists to discover the style of Napa wines when comparing to the others. We look forwards to another tasting which will include even more top wines from different part of the world. 雖然這個品試是由 Mondavi酒莊帶領,但他們不是要展示 Mondavi的酒有 多出眾,言而在整個品試中各評審對他們Reserve系列的酒釀都有很高的評 價,可以跟波爾多及勃艮第的頂級酒作比較,作為納帕谷的代表酒莊絕不

The tasting panel

用懷疑。在品評中,Mark不單只分享他對這些酒的看法,還跟大家深入介 紹了納帕谷當中一些重要的產區,及當地的風土特色。我們期待他再次來 臨,跟我們一同品嚐更多的世界頂級酒釀作比較。

*Robert Mondavi Wine is solely distributed by Jebsen Fine Wines Enquiry: 2926 2240

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www.jebsenfinewines.com

5/12/13 5:06 PM


040

Cru Leader English Text: Damien Waite // Translation: Eddie Chui // Images: Alvin Luk, Keith Chan // Special Thanks: Accolade Wines

H

Halliday Companioning Hong Kong with Hardys A month-or-so before his arrival here, bookings for most of his events

早在到香港前一個多月,James Halliday ,AM ,的訪問、活動已經

had already reached the ‘stand-by’ category. Hong Kong wine-lovers

填滿了他的行程。香港的酒迷都熱烈期待他的到臨,而他的受歡迎程度

are an enthusiastic and energetic crowd, but the level of anticipation

在這片澳洲葡萄酒廣受歡迎的地方,絕不比當地遜色。除了帶來他每

for the arrival of James Halliday, AM, was well above average. It was

年更新的酒評,更加帶來由Hardys 釀造的頂級佳釀。上期我們分享了

the arrival of the man behind the words in the books about wine, with

James對這些酒的高度評價,今期我們分享一下在大師班上James對

some outstanding wines from Hardys. Last month, we shared James’

葡萄酒更深一層的看法。

ratings on the premium range of Hardy wines. He also shared some of his opinion with us during and after the masterclass.

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Halliday

041

Cru Leader

Size Matters?

正冒起的產區

When everyone is praising the greatness of wines from boutique winery

在訪問中,可看出 James Halliday , AM ,對不同產區的熱愛。除了熱愛

which only produce ultra premium “cult” wines that is rarely available on

傳統著名產區外,也經常留意各區新勢力的掘起。例如 Canberra 區,經

the market, James looks at the wines from the big players as well. Hardys,

Clonakilla酒莊的Tim Kirk博士的努力,終能釀造出達標的酒釀。他同時指出

which seems to be just another supermarket brand, actually pays efforts in

Hilltops、Tumbarumba及Orange區的酒也正不斷進步,就像前一陣子西澳的

making world class wines by exploring the local terroirs in different regions.

Margaret River產區一樣。

“People may overlook what these big names might be doing, but they are

James Halliday,AM,相對來說算是溫和派的酒評人,但也有他自己的想法

worth paying some attention to. Small estates do not necessarily make

及理念。例如,關於酒塞。他認為根本不用冒著受污染的風險而使用軟木酒

good wine, and we tasted some very decent sparkling wines, Chardonnay

塞。但他也說道葡萄牙的酒塞生產商也花盡心思去改善這個問題,去提供最好

and Shiraz offered by Hardys today.” In fact because of the scale of the

的產品。同時,他也讚賞香港的酒迷對酒塞所持的態度尚算開明,不會一面倒

wineries, these great wines somehow offer even more reasonable prices

支持軟木酒塞。

comparing to others. So why not give them a try? 在品酒會上,當被問到有關Hardys HRB Shiraz 2009的陳年潛力時,他這樣

Upcoming Regions

回答:「大家當然都想知道在酒窖中的酒可以存放多久,而我通常都會保守地

Never to be tied-down to any particular area, James is enthusiastic about

回答,但是就算是最普通的澳洲葡萄酒都可以陳年10至20年,這些頂級酒的

different regions. And though he is a fierce defender of the Australian

潛力可想而知。」

producers, he also remains brutally honest in his appraisals. He dryly noted that finally, the Canberra region, much due to the efforts of Clonakilla’s Dr. Tim Kirk, had finally come of age and was producing wines with structure and standard. He also noted the rise of the Hilltops/Tumbarumba and Orange districts, although over the course of his short visit it was plain to see his enthusiasm for Margaret River in Western Australia. James Halliday, AM, is not a critic with an axe to grind, but he is happy to shake an axe at a few issues with determination. Firstly, corks. He simply doesn’t see the need for taking the risk inherent with traditional stoppers. “Why increase the odds of something going wrong?” Having said that, he does acknowledge that ‘finally’ the Portuguese cork-makers are modernising their production practices. He praised the Hong Kong wine market for ‘embracing’ modern closures. When he was asked about the ageing potential of the great Hardys HRB Shiraz 2009 we tasted together, here is his comment: “People always want to know how long a certain wine will keep in a cellar. I tend to understate the length – but even some average Australian wines will keep for 10-20 years. Not to mention these top wines of great quality.” 大莊vs小莊 正當大家都把目光放在那些小型的精品酒莊。他們的出品往往都以Cult Wine 為名索取天價,James 卻也會花心機去留意一些大酒莊的出品,看看有否驚 喜。就好像 Hardys ,有人認為他只是超市貨架上的另一款大品牌的出品, 而James 卻能說出他們也花了心機,釀造贏得酒迷歡心的葡萄酒,表現出產 區的Terroir 。「大家可能忽略了某些大牌子也會追求極致的品質,其實不少 酒款是值得留意的。小型酒莊不一定代表高品質,我們今天品嚐的優秀氣泡 酒、Chardonnay及Shiraz不正是由大酒莊Hardys所釀造的嗎?」其實,正由 於規模大,所以經常能以較合理的價格售賣這些頂級酒款。試一試又何妨呢?

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Cru Spirit

042

When Single Malt

comes with

black&

white

當單麥碰上黑 白 膠片

Text: Nevin Yip

The Macallan has invited one of the most renowned and influential photographer— Elliot Erwitt, to capture the spirit of The Macallan’ s heartland, creating the fourth edition of its Masters of Photography series. With Erwitt’ s insightful observational skill, successfully brings photography and single malt whisky into a subtle harmonious style. The Macallan邀請了世界著名及最具影響力的攝影大師之一 Elliott Erwitt,為其單一純麥威士忌,製作 出 The Macallan攝影大師系列第四輯。這個獨特的攝影系列成功把威士忌與攝影藝術結合在一起,令人 對原本風馬牛不相及的兩者產生全新的看法。

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Cru Spirit

043

Elliott Erwitt Elliott Erwitt has his own unique style of storytelling. He is so skillful

Elliott Erwitt 有 自 己 獨 特 的 風 格 , 他 善 長 捕 捉 很 多 經 典 的 一 瞬

and shrewd at capturing the “decisive moment”. You may reckon

間,拍下了當代很多引人入勝、具標誌性及影響力的照片,例

his works as mastery if you have ever seen the incredibly poignant portrait of Jackie Kennedy at her husband’s (JFK) funeral and

及 Marilyn Monroe 拍攝 The Misfits 時的多個特寫。 Erwitt 在 The

the intimate shots of Marilyn Monroe on the set of The Misfits.

Macallan的發源地展開他的「蘇格蘭奇幻歷程」 (Great Scottish

Erwitt in his Great Scottish Adventure, he captured the traditions

Adventure) , 捕 捉 其 獨 有 的 神 韻 。 從 「 The Macallan 攝 影 大

and eccentricities of the Scottish people. In the Masters of

師: Elliott Erwitt系列」中,可看到 Erwitt以其獨到的觀察技巧及

Photography series, one will see the views through his camera,

富幽默感的手法,詮譯蘇格蘭濃厚及具深度的色彩。

如 Jackie Kennedy 在她丈夫 John F. Kenndy 葬禮中淒美的臉貌

telling the vernacular style in Scotland. Elliott Erwitt系列所挑選的威士忌是 The Macallan由 58個橡木桶釀 The series uses 58 unique single cask whiskies, paired with a

製而成的單一純麥威士忌,每一瓶都附有一張 Erwitt在蘇格蘭時

different signed Elliott Erwitt print product, which captured during

所攝的親筆簽名作品。 The Macallan將一共發行 35款不同的限量

his Scottish adventure. Only 35 of each of the exclusive pairings

系列組合,全球合共限量發售 2,030套。禮盒內附有一本特製的

are available, making a global release of 2,030. The Elliott Erwitt

相簿,內有 158張 Elliott的精彩作品選輯,相簿內附有一瓶 35或

Edition comprises a photo-archival book featuring a total of 158

37.5cl以人手製作的玻璃瓶,而每一瓶威士忌都是由威士忌釀酒

images, shot by Elliott, with a 35/ 37.5cl handmade glass flask

大師 Bob Dalgarno親自挑選,並就著每桶威士忌的個性配以相應

containing a single cask malt whisky concealed within its pages.

的照片,所以每一套都是獨特而珍貴的。 Elliott Erwitt系列全球限

Therefore, each set is special and precious. The Elliott Erwitt

量發售,每套售價為 $1,500美元。

Edition is limited, each costs USD $1,500.

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044

Cru Dining

Harmony of the east and west 中、西完壁

For most people, Chinese food from the East and wine made in the

對很多人來說,西方釀造的葡萄酒搭上東方的中國菜餚好像遙不可

West seems standing at two extremes, which can never get into

及,有時甚至會引發不和。但其實只要配襯得而,即使相隔千里

harmony. Actually they can make a duo play in heaven. Lets try out

也是可以把他們拉在一起的。我們這次便找來一瓶來自西班牙的新

with a new star from Spain, Numanthia, to see if it can make sparks

星,Numanthia來配以不同的中國菜式,同樣能發揮出意想不到的

with Chinese cuisines.

效果。

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Cru Dining

045

Great Delicacy of Spain and China

中、西滋味

Spain produces delicious hams from Iberico pork, which are gaining

西班牙盛產優質的豬肉,而西班牙最受歡迎的眾多美食中,美味的西班

popularity from gourmets around the world with the smooth texture and

牙火腿是最令人回味。那種齒頰留香的滋味最感難忘。而燒乳豬也是西

rich, savory taste. Besides hams, suckling pig is also one of the traditional

班牙常見的美食之一,那外皮鬆脆,肉質細嫩的烤豬,帶陣陣的炭燒香

dishes in Spanish restaurants, grilled on charcoal bringing smoky notes with

味,最適合配上果味澎湃的西班牙美酒。在Ribera del Duero及Toro產區

the juicy meat of rich taste, and they pair extremely well with fruity and full

那些以Tempranillo(當地稱為Tinto Toro)葡萄品種釀造的葡萄酒便是最

bodied Spanish wines. Wines made with Tempranillo (sometimes called

好的例子。濃郁的果香,帶著點橡木桶烤烘的味道最能跟帶點炭燒風味

Tinto Toro) in Ribera del Duero and Toro regions are good examples for this

的豐厚肉味相互襯托,而且葡萄酒的酸度也能夠中和豬肉的肥膩感。

kind of pairing. The rich fruitiness in the wine is complemented with smoky toast notes of oak barrels which pairs very well with the charcoal grilled

我們中國,尤其廣東菜中同樣有不少以燒豬為題的精彩菜色。個人更愛

notes of the suckling pig. At the same time, aciditiy in the wine could cut

那些美味的廣東式燒乳豬,外皮那份鬆化脆口,肉質鮮嫩多汁,絕不會

through the oiliness of the meat well.

比西班牙的燒豬遜色。而且在香港,除了傳統的廣東式燒豬外,大廚也 花盡不少心思,創造出不同的菜式,有時甚至加入西方的食材如黑松露

In China, we have some grills in Canton regions here using suckling pig as

等,為傳統的菜餚提升到另一層次。葡萄酒配菜方面也絕不是困難,使

well. We like the Cantonese style roast suckling pig, with the crispy skin

用相同的西班牙葡萄酒,也能做出相同的效果。最重要的是讓葡萄酒及

covering the juicy meat with a touch of Chinese spices and white spirits

菜餚相互平衡,才能帶出最和諧的配襯,互相提升味道。其實,以葡萄

used for marinating. In Hong Kong, chefs are even more creative in bringing

酒配襯食物並不困難。

foreign ingredients like truffle to lift the taste of these traditional dishes. The secret of good wine pairing is to make good use of seasonings in order to

西班牙的超新星

create a balanced taste in the food like what we are looking for in wine. The

西班牙葡萄酒近年人氣不斷急升,在傳統的名莊以外,更有不少新星擁

dish itself will taste wonderful and will also be wine friendly. It is not difficult

現,而最受酒迷注目的其中一個產區,必定是位於西班牙西北部的Toro

to choose a wine to pair with such a dish, which lift up the taste of both the

產區,不少超新星都在這個產酒區誕生。這次找來的Numanthia酒莊,也

food and wine, that is what we called a marriage.

是近年冒起最快的酒莊之一。它多次獲得世界各地的酒評人予以高度評 價,例如Robert Parker也曾給予Numanthia酒莊其中一款Termanthia 2004

The Rising Star of Spain

年酒滿分的100分。

Spanish wines are getting more popular here than ever! They are so dynamic that besides the traditional estates, many new stars are coming up

百年根基

in different regions. Toro region located in the northwestern part is catching

Numanthia酒莊全名為Bodega Numanthia Termes,由1800年代中期己開

a lot of attention from wine lovers. Numanthia is one of them which gain

始釀造葡萄酒。而Numanthia的名字是為紀念當地的Numancia人民在公

many praises from wine critics worldwide. Robert Parker has also rated the

元前奮力抵抗羅馬軍隊的入侵超過20年而來的。Numanthia葡萄園在橫

Termanthia 2004, one of their top cuvee, a full score of 100 points.

跨西班牙及葡萄牙的杜羅河(River Duero)兩岸的山坡上種植超過100多 年,而且是歐洲少數避過根瘤蚜(Phylloxera)蟲害的地區,因此現在擁

Centuries of Foundation

有不少70至100年的老樹葡萄藤。這些上百年的Tempranillo葡萄藤產量很

Numanthia is made by the estate named Bodega Numanthia Termes, which

低,每棵可能只有1-2串葡萄,因此葡萄汁液特別濃郁,釀出豐厚而優雅

was established since the mid of 19th century. It was named in tribute to the

的葡萄酒。單寧雖然厚重,但深入土壤的根吸取不少礦物及養分,酸度

town of Numancia, renowned in antiquity for its resistance to the Roman

平衡,單寧偏向細緻、順滑,不會過於粗糙。這是近年種植的新樹所不

invasion for more than 20 years. The vineyards of Numanthia lay along the

能媲美的,而是經過百年的修煉才能得到。

slopes of River Duero which runs across Spain and Portugal, with ages of over 100 years. It is the region that is not affected by the Phylloxera disaster

我們找來的Numanthia 2009年酒款,由50-100年老葡萄藤的果實所釀

with old vines from 70 to 100 years of age. The yield of these old Tempranillo

造。濃郁的酒體在法國橡木桶陳年18個月,帶出平衡及結構。入口充滿

is very low, averaging just 1-2 bunches of grapes per vine. This produce

漿果的香甜,加上雪松、香草的味道,配上橡木的香味,加上如絲細滑

concentrated, rich but elegant wines. Tannin is firm, but the vine grow deep

的收結,雖然仍算年青,但經過適度的透氣己可以飲用,而陳年後將有

into the soil to absorb minerals, it gains very good balance of acidity. The

更好的表現。我們就看看中式乳豬菜式跟西班牙酒如何匹配。

tannin of these old vine grapes would not be rustic, but smooth and delicate. These characters could never be found in wines made from young vines. The Numanthia 2009 is made with old vines which is 50-100 years old. Aged in French barrels for 18 months, it comes out with great balance and structure. On the palate it is loaded with fruits and touch of cedar, spices, complemented by the attractive nose of oak and velvety tannin. It is still young with long ageing potential, but drinkable after proper decanting. Let’s see how it could be matched with the Chinese dishes of suckling pigs.

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Stuffed Yuen Nam Suckling Pig 雲南白族豬 “We think that wine is not difficult for Chinese food at all. If you season the food correctly, it is really wine friendly. Cantonese cuisine is even easier to pair as it is less extreme in taste comparing to Shanghainese and Sichuan cuisines. This suckling pig which gives a crispy skin and notes of mushroom. Numanthia has great fruitiness to pair with this suckling pig. The 2009 vintage comes with more integrated oak and balance. Toro is definitely a new region to look at.”

「我們認為葡萄酒跟中菜搭配其實並不困難,在菜色的調味上只要平衡得宜,其實很容 易用來配搭不同的葡萄酒。而廣東菜系較其他菜系給川菜或京滬菜色相對清淡,更容易 跟不同葡萄酒配搭。這道雲南白族豬,外皮香脆,帶陣陣的香菇味,而且調味適中,跟 Numanthia的果香相互匹配,而入口的烤肉味跟酒釀和諧配合,由於2009年的酒經過數年 的陳年,橡木桶的香味顯得更調和,整體的表現十分出色,在Toro區是一瓶值得留意的 佳釀。」

Chef Chow 周師傅

Martin Li

“We choose to use the youngest

The head sommelier of Dragon King Group,

sucking pig of around 20 days old

responsible for the wine and beverage of all the

from Yuen Nam and stuffed it with

restaurants with years of experiences in the wine

assorted local mushrooms. Then It

industry. He spends a lot of time in making great

is roasted in a grill like we roast the

Chinese food and wine matching.

famous goose to let the flavour of the mushrooms get into the meat.”

龍皇集團首席品酒師,負責集團旗下各餐廳的飲 料,入行多年,對各款酒釀配合中菜都甚有研

「我們專門在雲南找來20天左右 的『奶豬』,再釀入不同的菇菌包 好,再像烤鴨鵝般放入原子爐中烤

究。 Dragon King Restaurant 龍皇酒家

熟,讓豬肉的香味滲進菇裡,而豬 肉也帶有陣陣的菇菌香味。」

Causeway Bay Branch 銅鑼灣分店: 12/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Road,Causeway Bay 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心12樓 Tel:2895 2288 San Po Kong Branch 新蒲崗分店: Shop 110, 1/F, Mikiki, The Latitude Tower, 638 Prince Edward Road East, San Po Kong 新蒲崗太子道東638號譽港灣Mikiki商場1樓110舖 Tel:2711 8233 Kwun Tong Branch 觀塘分店: 2/F, Yen Sheung Centre, 64 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道64號源成中心2樓 Tel:2955 0668

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Pork Belly Pot with Black Truffle 黑松露火腩煲

049

Chef Tsang 曾師傅 “We try to add the perfumed black truffle sourced from Yuen Nam to the traditional Pork Belly Pot to lift the flavour. We also toned down a bit of saltiness for better harmony with the wine.”

Traditional dish of Pork Belly is now even richer on the nose and taste

「我們嚐試在傳統的火腩煲上加上來自雲南的黑松露,讓這菜

with the black truffle which also provide a very interesting pairing with

色提昇到另一層次,而在味道上,我們將味道略為減低鹹味,

the wines. The acidity of Numanthia provides great balance and is

讓配上葡萄酒時更加平衡。」

supported by the interesting combination of black truffle and black fruit flavour. 在傳統的菜色加上西方的黑松露的確讓香味提升數倍,而香味的加強 跟略為減淡的口味,使它跟Numanthia的果香及酸度更能有所提升,而 黑松露的香味更能跟濃郁的黑漿果香配合得宜。

Lippo Chiuchow Restaurant 力寶軒: 力寶軒位於金鐘的黃金地段,剛完成新裝修倍覺優雅,最令人 讚賞的是酒具齊備,連大型Decanter也有。菜色走傳統之餘更 有不少精緻的菜色,是喜愛中菜的酒友最佳聚腳地之一。 Located at the prime area of Admiralty, the newly renovated restaurant looks elegant. It is a great place for gatherings of wine lovers as they have decant stemwares and decanters, and to enjoy your wines with the traditional Chinese food here. G/F Lippo Centre, 89 Queensway, Admiralty, HK. 香港金鐘力寶中心地下 Tel : 2526 1168

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Cantonese Suckling Pig 傳統廣東燒乳豬 Numanthia has great balanced acidity that can cut off the oil in the pork. The savory taste of the pork is best with the intense richness of the wine. We can finish the whole pig easily with Numanthia. Numanthia除了有濃郁的果香,更有充足的酸度, 除了能襯托出乳豬的鹹香鮮味外,更能中和燒味的 油膩感覺,多吃幾件也不會覺滯。

Chef Yip 葉師傅 “We use traditional method to make this Cantonese suckling pig. It takes a whole day to prepare for the best result of crispy skin, great texture and juicy, rich savory taste.” 「我們用的是越南乳豬,肉質有咬口而肉味香濃,經 過一天的繁複工序後以傳統方法燒烤,是正宗的粵式 燒乳豬,外皮鬆化,入口甘香。」 Golden Court Fook Yuen Seafood Restaurant 馥苑海鮮酒家: With a very good location at Tsim Sha Tsui. They focus on traditional dishes with high quality ingredients, led by the awards winning Chief Chef Mr. Chow. Great Place for wine lovers who also like traditional Chinese food. 馥苑位於尖東的心臟地帶,以注重出品的傳統粵菜為主,選用優質 及天然的食材。而馥苑總廚周師傅更曾獲法國國際廚皇美食會之廚 皇榮譽,酒具也充足,適合愛酒之人聚餐品酒。 G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀麼地道63號好時中心地下 Tel : 2117 2333

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Sixth Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair Closed
with Great Success

The sixth edition Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair organized

由香港貿易發展局(香港貿發局)主辦的第六屆香港國際美酒展昨天圓滿結

by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council’s (HKTDC) closed on 9th

束,展覽於11月7至9日假香港會議展覽中心舉行。三天的美酒展合共吸引逾2

November . The three-day event took place at the Hong Kong Convention

萬名買家入場參觀,其中亞洲區升幅高達15%。為推廣美酒文化11月9開放公

and Exhibition Centre and welcomed over 20,000 buyers, with a significant

眾人士參觀,吸引近2萬4千名酒迷入場。

increase of 15% for Asian buyers. The publich section opened on 9th November attracted nearly 24,000 wine lovers.

香港貿發局副總裁周啟良表示:「環球美酒業界來港開設業務及葡萄酒愛好 者的數目與日俱增,香港是各國通往亞洲及中國內地的門戶,而內地對葡萄

“The number of wine-related companies and wine lovers are both on the

酒的需求也非常殷切,香港已充分把握這個趨勢帶來的機遇。美酒展雖然只

rise in Hong Kong. With soaring demand for wine in the Chinese mainland,

有六年歷史,但已發展成區內重要的酒類採購平台,今屆的參展商和買家人

Hong Kong is in an excellent position to capture the business opportunities

數再創新高,反映美酒展在亞洲市場甚具代表性,進一步強化香港作為區內

for being the gateway to the Chinese mainland and Asian markets.” HKTDC

酒類貿易樞紐的角色。」

Deputy Executive Director Benjamin Chau said. “The Wine Fair has only run for six years, it is now a major wine sourcing platform in the region. A record

今屆美酒展邀請了西班牙作為夥伴國家,雲集超過 90 家西班牙參展商,並

number of exhibitors and buyers attended the fair this year revealed the

呈獻地區展館。西班牙領事館商務公署、西班牙領事及高級商務參贊 Javier

significance of the wine fair in the Asian market. It also strengthens Hong

Sanz Muñoz表示:「展會為我們提供一個良好的貿易及交流平台,也是開拓

Kong’s role as the region’s wine trading hub.”

亞洲、中國內地及香港的市場的有效渠道。」

Spain was this year’s partner country, featured a pavilion and more than 90 Spanish exhibitors. Javier Sanz Muñoz, Counsel and Senior Trade Commissioner of the Consulate General of Spain, said, “The fair provides an excellent trading and networking platform as well as an effective channel to tap into the Asian, Chinese mainland and Hong Kong markets.”

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ProWine China 2013

The first edition of Messe Düsseldorf and Allworld Exhibitions ProWine

由杜塞爾多夫展覽集團公司與華漢國際會議展覽(上海)有限公司共同主辦

China closed its doors in Shanghai on 15th Nov. Over three intensive days,

的首屆ProWine China在11月15日於上海閉幕。為期三日的展覽,吸引來自

570 exhibitors from 30 nations showcased their new vintages and product

30個國家,570家參展商到場,向七千多位專業人士展示其最新酒品與創新產

innovations to over 7000 trade visitors. Exhibitors and visitors alike praised

品及理念。是次展覽會的參展國家數量,比起同類型中國大陸其他的葡萄酒

ProWine China for its international diversity and professionalism.

展覽,多出一倍。而今屆ProWine China憑藉國際性、多樣性及專業性獲得了 各參展商和觀眾的好評。

Diverse events Next to the international exhibitors, the more than 100 supporting events

展內活動

taking place in the ProWine China Forum and Master Classes were also met

除了場內大批國際參展商外,展內更透過舉辦 ProWine China論壇和大師培

with great interest. The visitors valued the numerous tastings and seminars

訓班,共舉辦了逾100場活動,供展內人士參加。觀眾都非常重視展會內的各

giving them deep insights into the international wine market. With additional

類品鑑會與研討會,並希望藉此深入了解國際葡萄酒市場。此外, ProWine

events like the competition “Winestars World China 2013”, “National Wine

China展會還組織了「Winestars World China 2013」、「國際葡萄酒晚宴」

Dinners”, “Magnum Dinner” and the presentations of award-winning wines

、「璀璨之夜晚宴」等活動,並為中國侍酒師葡萄酒與烈酒挑戰賽等賽事提

e.g. from CSWSC, the event programs at ProWine China also set a new

供了良好的環境,而且其豐富的活動更為業界樹立了新榜樣。

benchmark.

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For more information, please visit : www.prowinechina.com

Save the date Michael Degen, Executive Director at Messe Düsseldorf and Director ProWein: “We are proud and happy to have succeeded in bringing the prosperous concept of ProWein, which is based on variety, internationality

載譽歸來

and a pure business focus, to the Chinese market. ProWine China made

杜塞爾多夫展覽集團公司區域總監兼杜塞爾多夫 ProWein 展會項目總監

a very good start this year and on this basis we will continue for the next

Michael Degen說:「我們十分自豪並欣喜地看到著重多樣性、國際性和商務

edition in 2014. We look forward to further developing the fair into No. 1

性的理念成功植根中國市場。今年首屆 ProWine China成功,我們將以此基

trade fair for wines and spirits in China.” The second edition of ProWine

礎,在2014年的第二屆展會繼續努力。期待未來ProWine China成為中國首

China will be held on 12th to 14th November, 2014.

屈一指的葡萄酒和烈酒展會。」ProWine China第二屆展會將於2014年11月

12日至14日在上海舉辦。 中國侍酒師挑戰賽

The China Sommeliers Wine Challenge 2013 The China Sommeliers Wine Challenge (CSWC) 2013 is Chinese sommelier

中國侍酒師挑戰賽是一個公正的矇瓶葡萄酒賽事,為期三日,並於 11 月 12

focused blind tasting wine event of its kind. The competition brings together

日完滿結束。參與的侍酒師來自國內外,當中還包括國際賽事的冠軍選手。

China’s leading sommeliers, both local and international, and a panel of

中國侍酒師大賽是一個與中國市場和待酒師息息相關的比賽。 2013 年的中

renowned Master Sommeliers including world and regional champions.

國侍酒師葡萄酒大賽將和 ProWine China 2013 –「全球領先的葡萄酒和烈

CSWC 2013 takes place at the same time as the ProWine China 2013,

酒國際盛會」及FHC China 2013 –「環球美食及酒店設備博覽會」同期舉

“International Trade Fair for Wines and Spirits” and alongside FHC China

行。ProWine China是國內最大的葡萄酒、烈酒展覽會,它為葡萄酒業界提供

2013 China’s Global Food and Hospitality Expo, offering wine suppliers

了獨特的推廣機會,並促進他們的交流。去年的待酒師挑戰賽反應良好,吸引

a unique opportunity to win China relevant marketing awards and then

了來自國內外86家葡萄公司,共349款葡萄酒。同時間更在第十六屆的 FHC

promote their wines in the country. Last year the CSWC got a favorable

China展出,得到更多的曝光及展覽機會。另外,在是次的待酒師挑戰賽中,

feedback, attracted 86 wine companies and 349 wines to participate. In

最後有五款酒獲得了最佳評委會大獎,請參考附表。

the challenge, there are total five wine awarded the “Best Result”, please 更多詳細資料,可瀏覽ProWine China網站:www.prowinechina.com

refer to the list below.

CSWSC 2013 Challenge Best Result List 2013中國待酒師葡萄酒和烈酒大賽最佳獎項 Award

Company Name

Wine Name

Year

Country & region

Best Sparkling

East Meets West Fine Wines

Duval-Leroy Champagne Organic Brut

NV

Champagne, France

Best Red

VM Finewines Co., Ltd

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG

2006

Tuscany, Italy

Best White

北京澳華陽光酒業有限公司

Bannockburn Chardonnay

2011

Geelong, Australia

Best Sweet

Winery Schuckert

Schuckert Eiswein Grüner Veltliner

2012

Weinviertel, Austria

Best Liqour

Compañía Tequilera De Arandas, S.A. De C.V.

El Charro Tequila 100% Agave Añejo

NV

Mexico

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The

CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels.

作為國際級的時尚之都,瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The

Cru Lifestyle這裡,我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、時尚玩 物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。

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Hotel Life

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Hotel du Louvre, Paris 巴黎羅浮宮酒店 Text: Jonathan Li

Visiting a city such as Paris, where I have made frequent visits, I tend to choose different hotels each visit with an intension. This would enable me to explore within an area I want to see on that particular visit, and it would also help to recall happenings out of that trip from my memories after a lapse of time. My recent Paris trip is labeled in my mind as “ the Louvre Trip”, because I stayed at the Hotel du Louvre. 到常到的城市我喜歡嘗試每次住不同的酒店: 這有兩個好處,第一是可以每次集中逛一個區, 第二是事後容易以酒店為索引,記取那次行程的見聞。 巴黎我到過太多次了,這次是我的「羅浮之旅」: 我選住的是羅浮宮酒店 (Hotel du Louvre)。

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A few steps from the world’s most famous museum, this hotel is

Edition of Vogue in Chinese in my room, a publication supported by

a Paris landmark and a very famous traditional hotel. In 2013 its

advertising of brand name goods for the large number of Chinese

management goes to Hyatt. Hyatt now runs 4 hotels in Paris.

tourists in Paris. It appears that the Louvre is one of the favourite hotel for the upmarket Chinese market.

The imposing building of the hotel occupies a whole street block, with four different streets facing each side, yet it has only 177

與羅浮宮僅數步之隔,這���巴黎的地標性老酒店之一。 2013 年酒店評 5 星

rooms. I am sure Hyatt will make some changes to it in due course,

級,也是這一年開始,酒店剛好由凱悅集團經營。凱悅在巴黎現在經營了四

but what I see today is a traditional French style hotel, with its

間酒店。

old-world charm. Rooms are decorated in the French manner, very classical with old fashioned wooden furniture. Wallpapers and

歷史性的建築物佔去整整一個街口,每邊向著不同的街道,但如此宏偉的建

carpets are very ornate, but it is good that despite the old look

築卻只有177 間客房。我不知道凱悅接手後將來會有怎樣的改變,但我入住

the room has double-gazed windows for sound insulation, and

時酒店還是一間非常傳統的法國式老酒店。它有法國式的古典裝潢的客房,

the bathroom is modern. The rooms are relatively small by 5-stars

配古典的木傢俱,細花的牆紙和地氈,可喜的是雖在鬧市,可是用雙重玻璃

standards yet it is very comfortable. The benefit of the location is

隔聲的窗確保房裡寧靜,也喜歡床和浴室不是古董,是現代化的舒適設計。

evident and it seems that everything I want to see is within walking

在5星酒店中它的客房也許算偏小,但室雅何需大,我住得很舒適,而且地點

distance. The hotel is now named Hotel du Louvre, a Hyatt Hotel,

的優越性真的無可比擬,大多數地標和購物區都在步行距離。凱悅剛接手不

rather than Hyatt Regency, thus I hope that future renovation will keep

久,相信酒店不久就會有些翻新,酒店叫做 Hotel du Louvre – A Hyatt

most of the classical features of this Grande Dame of Paris hotels.

Hotel 而不叫Hyatt Regency Louvre ,據此我希望現代化之餘不致全面凱 悅化,因為這樣的古典酒店己不多了。

I am particularly impressed by the lobby, which is not large but cozy. The spiral staircases and decorative corridors add to the

我非常喜歡酒店古典的大堂,面積不大但反增溫馨感。我也喜歡它的旋轉樓

hotel’s character. While next to the Louvre, the other side of the

梯,今天己不易看到了。走廊的裝潢也古風盎盎,使我頓興懷舊之情,而一

square is home to the best antique shops of Paris, and Rue Rivoli

街之隔就是羅浮宮,廣場的另外一邊就是巴黎的古董店中心。旁邊的Rivoli

running from the hotel is a local shopping street for Parisians. The

大街則是本地人購物的商店街。住在這裡兩晚,單逛附近就盡興了!中國客

hotel attracts a lot of guests from China and Hong Kong and it

人不少,有中國員工,我進房赫然發現有中文巴黎版的Vogue 雜志,巴黎到

has some Chinese staff. I was surprised to find a copy of the Paris

處都是中國遊客,竟能靠名牌廣告養得起Vogue 的法國中文版,不簡單。

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Art Life

060

A

rt and Culture at HAJI

文化與藝術在夏至 Text by Mini 夏至Photos by michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team. Hair ( Mini ) by Pius Yiu 姚派 ( Pi4.com.hk )

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Art Life

061

HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011

《Mao : Contemporary works of the Cultural Revolution》 毛:文化大革名之當代藝術展 Through the contemporary art by Foster Eastman, we revisited the cultural

一個從未踏足中國的加拿大多媒體藝術家Foster

revolution in China.

Eastman,愛研究中國文化,用了接近三年的時間去

Although Foster Eastman has never been to China, he spent almost three

籌備《Mao : Contemporary works of the Cultural

years to prepare the exhibition and explore the Mao’s phenomenon by

Revolution 》 展 覽 , 讓 西 方 人 甚 至 不 太 熟 悉 中 國 曆 史 的 華

different art forms. Collages and multi-media works created by Foster

人,重新透過藝術角度,想像被遺忘的一頁。展覽有趣的地

are dramatic and disturbing to some audience. Art brings questions and

方是產生問題,然後讓觀眾找自己的答案。因為這次展覽而

questions lead to answers or bring up another questions. The exhibition

引發激烈的討論或對於自我認知的反思,都是一種藝術的申

is a forum to exchange cultural and political idea and that is certainly an

延。

extension of art. When we talk about Chinese contemporary arts, Mao is

關於中國當代藝術,似乎以毛澤東為題,是世界潮流,用重

definitely a hot subject. Foster is a fan of the Chinese Artist Ai Weiwei,

疊和拼貼的效果發展當代美學, Foster Eastman 把加拿大總

influenced by Ai Wei Wei’s act, Foster created a collage of Stephan Harper

理 Stephen Harper 和毛澤東拼貼,連接兩地的關係, Foster

(the Canadian Prime Minister) and Mao Ze Dong. Is it reflects the relationship

欣賞華人藝術家艾未未的行為藝術,用自己一套方法重新演

between China and Canada? Find your own answer at the exhibition. Will

譯及擴展。相信這個展覽終有一天能在中國巡迴。

this exhibition tour in China someday? The door is always open.

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Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場

JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯士甸道西1號

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A

Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號

Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號

Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號

Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號

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Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號

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Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖

The latest Italian dining concept brings authentic regional tastes from Italy, serving this best-loved cuisine in a relaxed and rustic setting, with stunning harbour views. Nestled within the Hong Kong Arts Centre, it offers a new dining experience that rolls artistic vibe and impeccable hospitality into one. It has been awarded the seal Ospitalità Italiana, a certificate recognizing Assaggio’s authentic Italian cuisine and recommended by the Michelin Guides.

Address: 6/F Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2877 3999 Website: www.assaggio.hk

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Café Siam is one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants and the only Michelin-recognized establishment in Hong Kong, Café Siam is a tranquil respite from the hustle & bustle of Lan Kwai Fong.

Address: 2/F – 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2851 4803 Website: www.cafesiam.com.hk

Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下

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Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓

Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓

Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓

Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience. Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk

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With over 40 years of experience. Jeeves of Belgravia serves leading international fashion houses, the Royal Family of England and all those stylish individuals who care for their garments and accessories. Looking for a top quality Fashion dry cleaner in Hong Kong? The choice is simple: Jeeves of Belgravia. Email: jeeves@jeeves.com.hk Website: www.jeeves.com.hk Facebook: www.facebook.com/jeeveshongkong Customer service hotline: 2973 0071 Collection and delivery hotline: 2552 7557

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Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418

The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號

French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓

Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖

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Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓

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St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓

Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖

Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室

Messina, named after a city in Sicily, features the finest cuisine from southern Italy. Diners can enjoy a few drinks before their meal at the bar located near the entrance, with window-side tables overlooking Victoria Harbour.

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In  December  2012,  Messina  received  a  “Particularly  Pleasant” recommendation in the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2013.

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Messina 以 意 大 利 西 西 里 一 個 城 市 命 名 , 主 打 意 國 南 部 美 饌 。 進 餐 前 不 妨在入口處的酒吧淺嚐美酒,倚窗座位可飽覽璀璨維港美景。去年12 月, Messina 獲得米芝蓮「上佳餐廳」推介。

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Address: 5/F, Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St, Hung Hom Tel: 3746 2733 Website: www.kodining.com

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100 days, dry aged After 8 years+ of healthy, free range living in spain, Happy Cow ( Rubia Gallega ) has now arrived. Limited availability, please order when you book the table! Address: 5/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai Tel: 2836 0699 Email: quemo@elite-concepts.com Website: www.elite-concepts.com

Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室

Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座

Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓

Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號

Maxscene Wineshop Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 54 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室

GDV Fine Wines Shop B1, G/F, 313 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔洛克道313號B1地鋪

Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖

G/F, 73 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環威靈頓街73號地鋪

Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室

G/F, 50 Kimberley Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道50號地鋪

Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下

Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖

Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓

Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號

Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室

Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下

Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室

Collezione La Cave Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK MM Advertising - ISSUE (July 2013) - 2-18 210x85mm - OP-V3.pdf 1 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室

Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室

28/6/13

Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪 Ground PM Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 5:44 跑馬地源遠街3號地下

Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪 Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室 Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號 Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪 voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下 Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖 Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖

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