Champa Meuanglao: March / April 2018 by Champa Meuanglao

LIU YIFEI. TISSOT T-wave. TOP WESSELTON DIAMONDS ON A MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL.

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Automatic Helvetic Pride Special Edition. SWISS FRANC COIN ENGRAVED ON THE CASEBACK .

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DR. SOMPHONE DOUANGDARA PRESIDENT & CEO OF LAO AIRLINES

Sabaidee Dear Passengers, Welcome aboard, and thank you for choosing Lao Airlines. The occasion of Lao New Year, from 14â&#x20AC;&#x201D;16 April, is the largest cultural festival in the Lao calendar. It is a festival during which family and friends gather together to pour water over Buddha images and bless one another. On behalf of all Lao Airlines employees, I'd like to wish our passengers health and prosperity in the new year. In order to accomodate our passengers during the Lao New Year period, Lao Airlines has increased the number of flights to important destinations including Luang Prabang and Pakse. On behalf of the board and all employees of Lao Airlines, I would like to thank all our passengers for choosing to fly with us, and for instilling the airline with conďŹ dence in its international standards, ensuring our continued expansion into the future. Lao Airlines remains at your service, no matter if you are travelling near or far. We hope to serve you again soon, and wish you a pleasant flight.

Dr. Somphone Douangdara President & CEO of Lao Airlines

Hello readers, Welcome to the March-April edition of Champa Meuanglao, and here’s hoping you are already getting well and truly into the party spirit as Lao New Year approaches. It may be the hottest time of year in Laos, but it’s also undoubtedly the most festive, as locals wind down and gear up simultaneously for the traditional Pi Mai celebrations.

Cover image: Weaving shuttles at Lao Textile Museum Photo taken by Phoonsab Thevongsa

www.champameuanglao.com

In this edition, Mick Shippen, ever our intrepid travel guru, takes on Chiang Mai and all its offerings, and we suggest some hidden gems in Savannakhet.

PUBLISHING Managing Editor

Vang Vieng, the reformed party town between Vientiane and Luang Prabang, is nestled in what is still one of the country’s most spectacular regions, and especially lovely if you’re lucky enough to stay at the Riverside Boutique Resort.

Editors

Back in Vientiane, yet another renewal is in progress, this time involving Nam Phou, the much loved local landmark and water feature.

Contributing Editor

Creative Director

Happy reading!

Contributing Writers

The Champa Meuanglao publishing team

ADVISORY BOARD Somphone Douangdara President

Head Photographer Contributing Photographers

Sally Pryor Cameron Darke Dalaphone Pholsena Duangtavanh Oudomchith Jason Rolan Soukthida Sengthavong Jochen Moravek Mick Shippen Gregory Dolezal Latsamy Phonevilay Silvia Luanglath Phoonsab Thevongsa Mick Shippen Christian Hogue

Somsamay Visounnarath Vice President �– Technical, Operation & Training Sengpraseuth Mathouchanh Vice President – Planning, Cooperation & International Relations & Legislation Leuangsamay Leuangvanxay Vice President – Administration, Finance & Accounting Rada Sunthorn Vice President – Passenger Service, Cargo & Catering Saleum Tayarath Vice President – Commercial, Tourism

ADVERTISING Director of Marketing & Sales

Marketing & Sales Executive

Aditta Kittikhoun aditta.kittikhoun@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55555521 Duangtavanh Oudomchith duangtavanh.oudomchith@champameuanglao.com (856-20) 55474555

LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED

RDK GROUP

Headquarters Wattay International Airport Vientiane Capital, Laos Tel: (856-21) 513243-46, Fax: (856-21) 513247 www.laoairlines.com

134 Samsenthai Road, Xiengyeun Village, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane Capital, Laos (856-20) 55731717 info@rdkgroup.la

Follow our official Facebook page at www.facebook.com/laoairlinesofficial to get the latest news and updates from the national carrier of Laos DISCLAIMER

Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2017 by Lao Airlines State Enterprise and RDK Group.

CONTENTS

MARCH / APRIL 2018

54 FEATURE

CITYSCAPE

GETAWAY

48 hours in Savannakhet

Spend a day at the Phutawen Sunflower Farm

FEATURE

INSIGHTS

TECH

Visiting Vientiane's

Why Lao Tobacco invests

How Planet brought internet

Lao Textile Museum

in famers

to Laos

ESCAPE

FLAVOURS

SNAPSHOT

The Riverside Boutique Resort

The musicians of Kualao

Lao New Year in pictures

is a diamond in the rough

restaurant

EXPLORE

STAYCATION

CLOSE-UP

Chiang Mai shows its

A stay at the Landmark

Vientiane's Nam Phou Square

creative side

Mekong Riverside Hotel

gets a makeover

BUSINESS

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

ON THE AIR

LS Horizon has the answers

The Lao Airlines call center

Airline news, timetables and contact details

CITYSCAPE

EAT

savannakHet Macchiato de Coﬀee

Lin’s Café Located right on the Talat Yen square (soon to be the Savannakhet Night Market), Lin’s is a favorite of locals and foreigners alike. Western foods, such as pastas, salads, and sandwiches, as well as good Lao and Vietnamese food are served up. Located on a corner with views of St. Theresa’s Church and the Talat Yen, the patio is a great place to relax for a few hours with a book and a cup of Lin’s delicious coffee.

LIN'S CAFÉ

Sooksavan Café & Bistro 1966 Located a block away from Talat Yen, and set in a beautifully crumbling heritage building, Sooksavan Café & Bistro 1966 creates tasty Thai and Lao dishes, such as Phad Thai, satay, and curries. People usually come for a meal and enjoy curling up in the retro ambience sipping tea and coffee, and reading a book.

MACCHIATO DE COFFEE

SOOKSAVAN CAFÉ & BISTRO 1966

Just as the name blends several languages, the hipster-vintage décor and extensive menu also bring a mix from different places. Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food are offered alongside Western comfort foods such as pancakes, steaks, burgers, and pizza. Save room for dessert, as cheesecake, blueberry cookie crumble, and chocolate lava cake will satisfy all sweet cravings. Instagrammers will especially like the hamburgers on charcoal buns and a surprising unicorn cotton candy.

DRINK Laochaleun Bar Live music in the evenings aids the retro movie ambience of this bar named for a beautiful derelict cinema down the street. Thai/Lao dinners and bar food made for sharing is available here to be washed down with a refreshing lager.

LAOCHALEUN BAR

Tamarind Café Sooksavan Bar This evening hotspot attracts both local and foreign visitors to the chill vintage vibes and outdoor seating to see and be seen. Both meals and bar snacks are available to accompany one’s cold beer.

Located on the riverside, an upstairs terrace allows your evening to begin with a few beers at sunset and go on longer into the night when live musicians perform in the adjoining heritage building. Thai and Lao dishes are prepared here, perfect to eat alone or be shared among friends.

TAMARIND CAFÉ

SOOKSAVAN BAR MARCH / APRIL 2018

CITYSCAPE

SEE

Savannakhet Provincial Museum

PROVINCIAL MUSEUM

St. Theresa’s Church

THAT ING HANG

That Ing Hang This is the most important stupa and the emblem of Savannakhet province. Locals believe that a piece of the Buddha’s spine is enshrined here. The stupa’s name comes from an old legend that the Buddha rested in his travels in this area and leaned on a hang tree. It is located a short drive outside of town. During the full moon in November, it is also home to one of the largest festivals in the province.

This museum is rather well thought out and gives a full picture of Savannakhet through the ages, from ancient times up through the Angkor and Lane Xang kingdoms, all the way to the victorious struggle for national liberation. There is also a section outside of war remnants and bombs, as a stark reminder of recent wars and UXO clean up still underway.

Dinosaur Museum Informative and bilingual, this spacious museum contains the most information available on dinosaurs found in Laos. Bones are displayed informally among several glass cases in each room. The English captions and brochure encourage self-learning and visitor interpretation.

When the French set up here in the early colonial days, Catholicism followed. Bolstered by many Catholic Vietnamese entrepreneurs settling in the downtown area, it has become a landmark for both locals and tourists. The doors are usually open during the day, inviting anyone to walk in and enjoy its subdued Indochinese charm.

ST. THERESA’S CHURCH

DINOSAUR MUSEUM

STAY Vivanouk Savan Resorts For people looking for something unique, or to strike it rich, this casino hotel will keep you occupied all day and night. Popular with Thai tourists playing a range of games like Baccarat and Hi-Lo, as well as roulette and slot machines, this year the hotel plans to upgrade its rooms and add more facilities to cater to families and children to create an all-inclusive resort.

VIVANOUK

A charming 3-room heritage home (with shared bathroom) in downtown Savannakhet, this homestay is great for families or small groups who want to privatize the entire property. The proprietors are intensely friendly and helpful to ensure that you fall in love with Savannakhet as much as they have.

Savan Café Set in a beautifully revitalized Chinese shophouse, the rooms are cozy and quaint, and some have private bathrooms. Once you lie down you will not want to get up, as the beds are some of the softest found in Asia. The downstairs area is a popular café and restaurant with great Thai, Lao, and Vietnamese food and coffee, and the rooftop is also a bar in the evenings.

SAVAN RESORTS

SAVAN CAFÉ

Text & photographs by Jason Rolan MARCH / APRIL 2018

GETAWAY

SIDE UP

The Phutawen Sunï¬&#x201A;ower Farm has visitors getting their hands dirty BY CAMERON DARKE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

t the end of a long, dusty red road in Bolikhamxay Province stands a ticket booth, a turnstile, and fleet of electric buses. Festive local music plays from hanging speakers, and groups of visitors mill about among lush garden beds, taking selﬁes with exotic seasonal flowers and organic vegetables. It’s a setup more common in Singapore or Bangkok than in central Laos, but the Phutawen Sunflower Farm has made great strides in just a few years. Aiming to draw attention to organic farming and attract more tourists to lesser known regions of the country, the farm is one of a string of tourist sites listed by Bolikhamxay Province under the Ministry of Information, Culture, and Tourism’s Laos: Simply Beautiful campaign. Founded by Dalounny Douangpaseuth, the Phutawen Farm seeks to showcase the possibilities of organic farming, and educate local people about domestic agriculture. “If people grow just a few varieties of fruits and vegetables in their home gardens, they can ensure their families are fed all year round,” says Dalounny. “We also assist in training the people in the local area, and maintain a rotating staff at our farm. We train them up so that they have the skills to ﬁnd work elsewhere, and then take on a new group,” she says. The farm site, some twenty hectares, produces organic honey farmed by local beekeepers, pigs, cattle, fruits and vegetables and various other crops. But it is the sunflowers that have captured the public’s attention, and brought local people flocking

Camping and collecting organic vegetables at Phutawen Sunﬂower Farm

GETTING THERE Phutawen Sunﬂower Farm is located 70km from Vientiane Capital along Route 13 South. It can be reached by road heading toward Paksan, Bolikhamxay Province. Signage is posted at the turnoﬀ. CONTACT open daily 9 am – 5 pm facebook.com/ phutawen +856 21 416275

to the farm. And although they can only be grown during a small window from January to March each year, the sunflowers make a dramatic display, grown en masse in one of the farm’s larger ﬁelds. “Young Lao people have spread the word about our farm through social media. They love to take photos with the sunflowers. It’s a very popular activity, especially on weekends,” says Dalounny. While visibly stunning, the sunflowers also make a nutritious silage crop. The stems and leaves of the plants are used to make high-protein animal feed, while the seeds are collected, dried, and sold as a snack. Sunflower seeds are famous for their health beneﬁts, being rich in B vitamins, Vitamin E, and essential fatty acids. Meanwhile, Phutawen continues to grow and expand its range of activities.Visitors to the farm can now stay overnight at a secluded campsite, collect their own organic produce, or even take a ride on the farm’s very own dromedary camel. A special ethnic minority market has even been set up on site, so visitors can also sample some of the region’s ethnic fare. MARCH / APRIL 2018

FEATURE

WOVEN WITH

HISTORY

Preserving the past can be a bittersweet process BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

ockets of tranquility can be hard to come by as you drive through the bustling villages of Vientiane Capital. But as you pull off a busy road in bustling Nongthatai Village, and into the manicured gardens of the Lao Textile Museum, the sensation is a little like stepping back in time. Traditional wooden structures are scattered on the wide green lawns, and the sounds of the city feel far away, especially as you step into the cool interiors of the weaving rooms. Here, the emphasis is firmly on the past, as weavers use traditional looms to recreate the familiar textures of the antique fabrics that decorate the walls. The museum has been a labour of love for the family that owns the property. When tourists first started taking an interest in pre-war textiles from northern Laos in 1980s, Hansana Sisane felt proud of his country’s heritage. His wife’s grandmother had been a traditional weaver in Xieng Kouang province, where she wove and dyed fabrics using age-old natural techniques. But when he watched many of these examples of old traditions passing into the hands of foreign collectors, he realized it could spell the end of an important part of traditional Lao life. He and his wife – both then public servants in Vientiane – began to build their own private collection, adding to the family pieces they already had. “It was a way of preventing old textiles from disappearing. At the time, there were no official policies in place the preserve such things,” he says now, nearly 40 years later.

“WE WANTED TO PRESERVE THE OLD WAYS OF WEAVING AND SHOW GUESTS THE PROCESS OF HOW TEXTILES ARE MADE.”

MORE INFO The Lao Textile Museum oﬀers guided tours, natural dye handson experience, pre-booked cooking classes and the grounds can be rented for functions. +856 21 562454 GETTING THERE Take a taxi / tuktuk to opposite of Hom 8, Nongtha Tai Village in the northern part of Vientiane

After the war, few ethnic groups resumed their old weaving practices. His wife, Bouasonkham Sisane, wanted to help restart the industry as the country recovered from years of political upheaval, and opened a textiles shop, Kanchana – The Beauty of Lao Silk, near That Dam in downtown Vientiane. “After the war, lots of people from the north came down to Vientiane with knowledge and information about weaving, but no means of setting up workshops, no capital,” he says. “We used our own money to purchase looms and paid weavers a salary. We thought it was better to produce new things to sell, and preserve old things that were made using weaving techniques that would otherwise have been lost forever.” Eventually, in 1990, they set up their own museum, housed in traditional structures on their land in Nongthatai Village, based on their research of old-style houses across the country. There, they displayed examples of textiles from various ethnic minorities, explained the historic context for the different ways they were used in everyday life, and held weaving demonstrations for tourists. “We wanted to preserve the old ways of weaving and show guests the process of how textiles are made,” he says. “There are many different techniques in weaving, and some have been lost almost completely, and have now come back because we can use machines. Machine-made fabrics are smoother and faster to produce, but nothing is the same – for locals or tourists – as handmade textiles.” The Lao Textile Museum, as it is known, also makes natural dyes onsite, and occasionally runs weaving classes. The venue can get quite busy on weekends, but on quieter days during the week, there is plenty of opportunity to wander the lush gardens and drink in the historic atmosphere. MARCH / APRIL 2018

FEATURE

ສືບສານ

ຕຳນານ

ຫັດຖະກຳ

“ພວກເ�ົາຢາກປ�ກປ�ກຮ�ກສາ

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INSIGHTS

SOWING THE SEEDS OF SUCCESS For Lao Tobacco, helping Lao farmers is good for business BY LATSAMY PHONEVILAY

rowing tobacco is not an easy choice for Lao farmers. For starters, tobacco is a much more expensive crop to cultivate than, say, rice, sweet corn or peas. In fact, the cost of growing tobacco is almost double that of most other crops. That’s why Lao Tobacco Limited supports the farmers who grow its product by supplying the fertiliser and any other materials they require. These are “loaned” to the farmer, who repays the loan once the crop is sold . But while tobacco is expensive to grow, the returns are much higher, with farmers often making double the proﬁt of more traditional crops like rice or cucumbers. This is why many of the 1,544 farmers contracted to Lao Tobacco Limited have been growing tobacco for 15 years or more. Not only do they know that their work will pay off, they are also able to plant rice in the rainy season, before using the same ﬁelds to plant their tobacco in the dry season. Ultimately, tobacco crops have provided higher incomes to rural households, funds that can be used to develop infrastructure and improve their standard of living.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

TECH

YOU ARE NOW ONLINE How Planet brought internet to Laos

Founder & Managing Director Thanousone Phonamat

BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

f you’re reading this on the aeroplane, there’s a fair chance you don’t often take the time these days to physically flip through pages made of paper. Like many people, you probably get your news and information from social media and other online sources. It’s hard to imagine, then, how different things were just two decades ago. But when Thanousone Phonamat returned to Laos after completing a degree in Business Administration in Germany in 1996, he could see the future in his mind’s eye. “In my studies, which included a minor in IT, I learned that the internet was something that was going to change the world,” he says. “I could see how it would help poor countries to develop. But when I came back to Laos, there was no internet, and people were dialling into Thailand for email.” We’re speaking in his spacious office in the headquarters of Planet Online, the company that first introduced Laos to the possibilities of cyberspace. Today, Planet is just one in a crowded market of internet service providers, big and small, including the stateowned Lao Telecom. But back in 1996, Thanousone and his business partners had to work hard to convince the Lao Government that the future was online. He laughs at the memory now, but it was hard going. “We tried to convince the government there are more positives than negatives for having internet in the country,” he says. “We just had to find a way to prevent all the negative things. I think it took us about four years before we got a license as an Internet Service Provider.” While they waited, he and his colleagues set up an IT company in 1998, Planet Computers, a service that was an agent for IBM and worked with several international organisations to provide computer services. Planet also opened a retail space in downtown Vientiane, and soon noticed a steady stream of

inquiries about email. “Tourists would come into the shop on Setthathirath Road, and ask for Hotmail, always Hotmail,” he says. “We kept trying to explain that we only sold computers, but then realised that the city needed an internet café. We thought, why don’t we connect to Thai servers and let everyone use Hotmail?” That was back in 1998, and the café – the country’s first - charged $2 a minute for customers to log into their online accounts. Incredibly, no one was put off by the price, and while many people would spend just a few minutes checking their mail before leaving, many others stayed for an hour or more. “I don’t know what they were doing, but we ended up following the tourist

“Without working with operators, we would not be able to provide good internet access,” he says. “We worked with ETL for two years, until they learned enough to set up their own internet service. So we decided to we needed to be independent, and that’s how we came to WiFi in 2004.” Locals and long-time residents might remember the early days of WiFi at public places such as cafés – purchased in half-hour chunks at exorbitant prices alongside your coffee – but today, it’s impossible to imagine the world without constant connectivity. Thanousone says Planet focuses mainly on corporate customers, including most of the country’s banks, and, rather than being resentful of competition, he’s happy to have been one of the country’s internet pioneers. It was even the ﬁrst country in the region to introduce the 4G network, an achievement that made headlines in neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam. “Now that the internet is everywhere, in every part of life, we're happy that we've achieved our goal,” he says. “That's why we're looking at other sectors to develop.” Planet now has projects in rural areas, where communities may be connected to the internet, but unable to afford the right devices to take advantage of the online world. “Many kids don't have computers – it’s pointless if you have coverage countrywide but people still have barriers to access,” he says. Planet set up Alo! as a manufacturing company several years ago, producing affordable and transportable computers and tablets for students, in partnership with Microsoft and the Lao Ministry of Education. “It’s a special Lao thing, and Microsoft considers it a good case study,” Thanousone says. “Today, it’s not just about business profit, but seeing that we can help bring full-speed internet to the whole country and maximising the beneﬁts of technology.”

“TODAY, IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT BUSINESS PROFIT, BUT SEEING THAT WE CAN HELP BRING FULL-SPEED INTERNET TO THE WHOLE COUNTRY AND MAXIMISING THE BENEFITS OF TECHNOLOGY.” route. We opened cafes in Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Luang Namtha,” he says. The internet was well and truly established by then, and dozens of others had followed suit and opened their own internet cafes by the time Lao Telecom, Laos’ official telecommunications company, bit the bullet and launched itself as a service provider. Planet missed out on being the country’s first official service provider, but Thanousone says the company prides itself on laying the groundwork, and the fact that it has remained independent throughout the years. Planet finally received its ISP license in 2000, when internet technology was still in the dial-up phase, and signed a revenue-sharing agreement with local telecommunications company ETL the following year.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

TECH

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MARCH / APRIL 2018

Lao Construction Bank Limited, a joint venture between private Lao and foreign investors, was officially incorporated and began operations on the 22nd of February, 2012. Over the five years since its inception, the bank has continued to expand, evidenced by the customers who have opened accounts and who regularly use the bank’s services. When compared to 2013, the total volume of transactions (valued in kip) increased by 9%. In 2014, this increased by 33.19%, and increased continuously to 27.14%. At present, fixed deposit accounts make up 60.25% of the total sum of the bank’s cash deposits, and this is increasing each year. At the end of 2012, and until the 26th of August, 2016, it has been averaging 21.47% per year, and the bank has been able to make use of this capital to issue credit to investors, businesspeople, retailers, including small-scale, medium-scale and large-scale, in order to play a part in the effective implementation of the 8th Five-Year National Socio-Economic Development Plan (2016-2020), as well as the bank’s business plan as endorsed by the management board.

The Lucky Draw Event for Mahasab and Mahasok Savings Account Holders

Tan Sri Yuhao Dato’ SriDr DrAixinjuelo Yuhao Aixinjuelo Chairman of the Board, Lao Construction Bank

ທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງຈ�າກັດ ຈັບສະຫຼາກແຈກໂຊກໃຫຍ�ໃຫ�ລູກຄ�າ ທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງຈ�າກັດ ແມ�ນທະນາຄານຮ�ວມທຶນ ລະຫວ�າງ ນັກທຸລະກິດ ເອກະຊົນລາວ ກັບຕ�າງປະເທດ ໄດ�ຮັບອະນຸຍາດສ�າງຕັ້ງ ແລະ ເຄື່ອນໄຫວທຸລະກິດ ທະນາຄານ ຢ�າງເປັນ ທາງການໃນວັນທີ 22 ກຸມພາ 2012 ຕະຫຼອດໄລຍະເກືອບ 5 ປີ ແຫ�ງການສ�າງຕັ້ງ ທະນາຄານໄດ�ເຕີບໃຫຍ�ຂະຫຍາຍຕົວຢ�າງຕ�່ເນື່ອງ ສະແດງອອກເຖິງການໄວ�ວາງໃຈ ແລະ ຄວາມເຊື່ອໝັ້ນຂອງລູກຄ�າ ພ�່ແມ�ປະຊາຊົນທີ່ໄດ�ມາເປີດບັນຊີເງິນຝາກ ແລະ ໃຊ�ບ�ລິການ ກັບທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງ��ກັດ ເປັນ��ນວນຫຼວງຫຼາຍ ໂດຍທຽບໃສ�ປີ 2013 ຍອດເງິນຝາກ ທຸກສະກຸນເງິນທຽບເທົ່າກີບ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ 9%, ໃນປີ 2014 ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ 33,19% ແລະ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນ ຢ�າງຕ�່ເນື່ອງ 27,14%ໃນປັດຈຸບັນເວົ້າລວມ ເວົ້າສະເພາະທາງດ�ານເງິນ ຝາກປະ�� ຫຼື ເງິນຝາກ ມີ��ນົດ ຮອດປັດຈຸບັນກ�ໄດ�ກວມເອົາ 60,25% ຂອງໂຄງປະກອບເງິນຝາກທັງໝົດ ແລະ ເພີ່ມຂຶ້ນແຕ�ລະປີ ຈາກທ�າຍປີ 2012 ເຖິງປັດຈຸບັນ, ຮອດວັນທີ 26/08/2016 ໂດຍສະເລ�ຍ 21,47% ຕ�່ປີ ເຊິ່ງເຮັດໃຫ�ທະນາຄານ ໄດ�ນ�າໃຊ�ແຫຼ່ງທຶນເງິນຝາກດັ່ງກ�າວ ປະກອບສ�ວນ ທຶນຮອນ ໃຫ�ສິນເຊື່ອແກ�ນັກລົງທຶນ ນັກທຸລະກິດ ຜູ�ຄ�າຊາວຂາຍ ທັງຂະໜາດນ�ອຍ ຂະໜາດກາງ ແລະ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ� ເພື່ອປະກອບສ�ວນໃຫ�ບັນລຸແຜນພັດທະນາ ເສດຖະກິດ ສັງຄົມ 5 ປີ ແຫ�ງຊາດ ຄັ້ງທີ 08 ແຕ�ປີ 2016-2020 ຂອງພັກ-ລັດຖະບານທີ່ວາງໄວ� ກ�ຄືແຜນທຸລະກິດຂອງທະນາຄານ ທີ່ສະພາບ�ລິຫານທະນາຄານ ໄດ�ຮັບຮອງ.

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ລາງວັນທີ 2 ລົດ TOYOTA REVO ທ�ານ ນາງ ��ສະຫວັນ ມິ່ງ��ປາບານ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກເລກທີ: 0100380100018

ລາງວັນທີ 3 ລົດ HYUNDAI EON ທ�ານ ອາດິສອນ ພົມມະຈັນ ບັນຊີເງິນຝາກເລກທີ: 0104410200006

ເຊິ່ງການຈັບສະຫຼາກ ຜູ�ໂຊກດີໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ ໄດ��ເນີນໄປຢ�າງໂປ�ງໃສຂາວສະອາດ ແລະ ຍຸຕິ�� ໂດຍມີຄະນະ��ມະການ ແລະ ແຂກຜູ�ຊົງຄຸນວຸດທິຈາກ ກະຊວງຍຸຕິ��, ທະນາຄານ ແຫ�ງ ສປປ ລາວ, ຫ�ອງວ�າການປົກຄອງນະຄອນຫຼວງ ແລະ ພາກສ�ວນ ປກສ ເຂົ້າຮ�ວມເປັນສັກຂີພິຍານຢ�າງພ�ອມພຽງ ລວມທັງໄດ�ມີການຖ�າຍທອດ ສົດຜ�ານສະຖານີໂທລະພາບລາວຊ�ອງ 3 ໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ດ�ວຍ. ��ລັບລາຍຊື່ຜູ�ໂຊກດີລາງວັນອື່ນໆ ຕິດຕາມໄດ�ໃນໜັງສືພິມ ແລະ ໂທລະພາບ. ��ລັບສົກປີ 2016-2017 ນີ້, ເພື່ອສືບຕ�່ສົມມະນາຄຸນ ຄົບຮອບ 5 ປີ ທະນາຄານລາວກ�່ສ�າງ ຈຶ່ງໄດ�ຕົກລົງສືບຕ�່ມອບໂຊກ ຄືນ��ໄລໃຫ�ແກ�ລູກຄ�າ ດ�ວຍລາງວັນທີ່ຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນກວ�າເກົ່າ.

ESCAPE

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

The Riverside Boutique Resort is one of the best destinations in Vang Vieng BY SALLY PRYOR

GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is only accessible by road. Take Route 13 North from Vientiane to Vang Vieng, or Route 13 South from Luang Prabang. CONTACT +856 23 511 726-8 info@riverside vangvieng.com

riving to Vang Vieng on a hot Saturday in the rainy season, there’s nothing quite like the sight of mist curling through the limestone karst formations as you reach the town. That, alongside the scattered iridescent rice paddies, is what all your visions of rural Laos are made of. Later, if you’re lucky enough to be staying at the Riverside Boutique Resort just out of the tiny main town, you will gaze out from your balcony into the courtyard, where staff are lifting the protecative covers off the cushioned loungers by the sparkling inﬁnity pool. The rain has just stopped, and rolled up towels are being distributed. Shortly, you’ll head down for a dip and a poolside drink. The view, from the balcony and the pool, takes in the Nam Song river, gushing at this time of year, and populated by ﬁshing boats. The limestone looms beyond, and the mist continues to furl. The scene is set. But this isn’t the infa-

mous Vang Vieng of 10 years ago; traces of that one are still there, beyond the resort and down in the town, one that is still, bafflingly, aimed at the 90s backpacker tourists. The three main streets are potholed and muddied, and many of the restaurants are still – still!- advertising cocktail ‘buckets’. Many have cushioned platforms with low tables, on which you can sprawl and watch Friends on a loop all day long – another baffling long-time tradition. The shops, rows and rows of them, are selling tie-dyed happy pants, fake Crocs and floppy hats. It’s surreal and out of place in such a stunning landscape. And it has long been thus. But there have been changes in recent years, not least due to the negative media reports about the town’s party reputation and lack of safety regulations. Vang Vieng has long been a magnet for young travellers looking for cheap party towns, and for many years, the narrow streets were ﬁlled year-round with European and Australian backpackers. As the years went on, the crowds grew more crass, badly behaved

and underdressed. They all but eclipsed the natural beauty of Vang Vieng’s surrounds by turning a better class of tourist away. Today, though, the crowds look different. More than 50 per cent of tourists are Asian, and the vast majority of these are Korean. This is largely thanks to a popular Korean reality show, Youth Over Flowers, an episode of which was shot in Vang Vieng and screened at the end of 2014. Korean tourists – well-dressed, well-behaved and earnestly appreciative of their surrounds – have been flocking to the town in large groups ever since. And there is still plenty on offer for the non-partying crowd, and always has been. Just ﬁve minutes out of town and there are picturesque villages, caves, farms and a lagoon to investigate – the real reason why many tourists were attracted to the place in the early days. The Korean groups take it all in almost as a matter of professional obligation, ticking off each activity diligently, and causing delays on the bridge in and out of town with their streams of

Riverside Boutique Resort is ideally situated in the southern and most quiet part of Vang Vieng. All the main city spots are within walking distance.

two-person buggies, another new addition to the town in recent years. For the Riverside Boutique Resort, this new influx of Korean tourists has meant a steady stream of business, with no low season. In a town choking with low-grade accommodation, the resort has almost no competition, and is not at the mercy of the weather or the seasons. There are almost no vacancies during our weekend visit, and despite almost continuous rain, the hotel restaurant – again, the only eatery of its calibre for miles – is packed with customers. “It is quite a challenge to run a resort in a place like Vang Vieng, but not because it is so filled with accommodation” says co-owner Stéphane Vigié. “In fact, I think it is easier to run a high-end resort in a town without competitors at this level, than in a place like Luang Prabang filled with luxury hotels.” He has high hopes, though, that Vang Vieng will one day meet its tourist potential with a bit more style – starting with better planning and control of the urban and natural environment. “In the town itself, it will mean cleaning up the place, enforcing minimum quality standards, and opening higher quality bars and restaurants,” he says. “Outside the town, where the real assets of Vang Vieng lie, it will mean managing and controlling the development of tourist activities so that they do not end up spoiling the environment and what makes Vang Vieng an attractive place. “At Riverside, we have always tried to set the example and to promote an eco-friendly tourism that places the emphasis on the local cultural heritage but there is only so much we can do alone.” For a resort, the main challenge, he says, is to find, train and retain staff in a town where it is “virtually impossible to find staff with adequate training and prior experience. I think we did a good job meeting this challenge,” he says. And indeed, when met with a random request for white wine by the pool, a young waiter reels off a list of wines on offer without hesitation. Later, early in the evening, we venture out for a pre-dinner stroll, and find streets clogged with Korean tourists. It’s interesting for about 15 minutes, until we realise there is very little in the way of good-quality food – the psychedelic lighting and scruffy interiors are far from inviting. We beat a retreat back to the resort, where gin and tonics and excellent food are readily available. The next morning, we have breakfast on the restaurant’s balcony, overlooking the river, the karst and the boats. The town is far behind us. It’s easy to believe, even just for duration of breakfast and until checkout, that it no longer has any need to exist. MARCH / APRIL 2018

ESCAPE

FLAVOURS

Music,

dance

AND

AUTHENTIC LAO

FOOD

BY GREGORY DOLEZAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA Bounsuang (right) with his dance partner

Bounchanh (left) and his team of musicians

musician

aos is a country that is steeped in tradition, especially when it comes to food and music. And on any given night of the week, diners can enjoy an authentic Lao meal while elaborately dressed dancers perform to the strains of a traditional khaen and percussion ensemble. It’s a regular offering at Kualao, the popular Vientiane institution that has been serving up the best of Lao cuisine for decades. For many travellers, it’s the breathtaking natural beauty and World Heritage sites that have brought them to the country, but the country’s distinct legacy in the performing arts is the soul of its people. At Kualao, tourists and locals alike can delight in cultural experiences that are becoming scarce in the developing world. Like a living folklore museum, lovers of live music and dance can explore authentic Lao traditional dishes at this charming French kh colonial villa near the Mekong River, ae n where some of the country’s foremost classical musicians and dancers entertain audiences with nightly stage shows reflecting their rich history and ethnic heritage. Bounchanh Bouphakham, who left Luang Prabang in 1966, leads the band. More than 500 classical music teachers across Laos and America who now carry the tradition for their people learned from him as one of the last performers to have played before the royal court. Born to a farming family, Bouphakham taught himself to play music – against his parents’ wishes - through observing some village elders play when he was just a young boy. “My favorite song is ‘Oh Duang Champa’ sometimes called ‘Champa Meuanglao’,” he g yin pla

The iconic set menu Pha Khao

DETAILS open daily 11 am – 2 pm, 6 pm – 10 pm complimentary music & dance performances every evening +856 21215777 kualaorestaurant. com

says. “This is the most famous song in Laos and truly represents our culture.” The Lao are renowned for their love of singing music together that portrays the joys and hardships of rural life, love stories and even folk tales about animistic spirituality. Improvised lyrics can suit the artist or event, although the Lao all know the famous ones by heart. Songs from Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos have common roots with differences in tempo and lyrical content. The khaen, a bamboo mouth organ unique to Laos, can also be found in much of its iconography. Dance is also an integral part of Lao culture, and Suang, the lead dancer in Kualao’s nightly shows, has been performing since the restaurant opened 20 years ago. “Entertaining people has always been my great joy in life,” he says. His story is one of triumph over social norms that viewed dance as a female medium. Times have changed and his performances are cherished by audiences from around the world. Inside the restaurant, the rattan walls are typical of villages in Lao – a fusion of both the traditional and colonial periods with family portraits and heirlooms providing a welcoming personable atmosphere. Mee, the service manager, delights in helping guests ﬁnd what they’re looking for – a comforting meal, or a new experience. “I ﬁnd it deeply rewarding to share my culture,” said Mee. “I feel great when I can introduce Lao food to the world since most people aren’t familiar with it.” Among Kualao’s specialties, guests can enjoy purple sticky rice with dishes from around the country, including staples such as laab and tam mak hoong, as well as the more exotic or laam from Luang Prabang, or the legendary matsutake mushrooms of Xieng Khouang. MARCH / APRIL 2018

SOKDEE PI MAI PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA & CHRISTIAN HOGUE TEXT BY SALLY PRYOR

ao New Year, or Pi Mai, is the biggest festival of the year in Laos, and celebrated all over the country. Traditionally a time for cleansing and renewal, it’s also a chance for everyone to let their hair down and party for three days straight like only the Lao can. Along with the traditional ritual of heading to the temple to pour fragrant water over Buddha statues, towns and cities across the country come to life with street parties and water celebrations. Prepare to be thoroughly doused with water in any open space – it’s a way of bringing everyone into the celebrations, as well as making the very hottest time of year more pleasant. Lao New Year is an experience like no other, and if you’re lucky enough to be here for it, relax and go with the flow – the best way to enjoy it!

SNAPSHOT

During Lao New Year, Buddhists visit the temple to make merit and pour water over statues of the Buddha. This represents puriďŹ cation and the washing away of both sins and bad luck.

Photographs by Phoonsab Thevongsa

Locals enjoy throwing water at one another, which has become the iconic festivity of Lao New Year.

Locals bring the temple's Buddha statue outside to be sprinkled with fragrant water.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

SNAPSHOT

The ancestor spirits of Luang Prabang dance in their annual procession during the New Year period.

A legion of masked monkey dancers from the Phalak Phalam ballet parade down main street.

The Nang Keo dance is performed to make merit for the new year.

Photographs by Christian Hogue christian-hogue.com

MARCH / APRIL 2018

Refill

your

It is estimated that more than 100 million disposable plastic water bottles are consumed by travellers every year in Laos. Most of them are not recycled. In many areas of the country where waste management systems aren’t available yet, people burn their waste. Open burning of plastic waste is a major source of air pollution and releases toxic gases that can cause serious health problems such as cancer, impotence and asthma. The tourism industry in Luang Prabang is leading a campaign to reduce single-use plastic water bottles. Many hotels and tour operators, restaurant and cafes, museums and other businesses in the town centre offer safe drinking water refill stations. Visitors and residents can easily refill their bottles at these premises for free, or pay less than buying a new plastic water bottle.

Don’t have a reusable bottle? You can buy one in shops, hotels and restaurants around Luang Prabang. They make great souvenir too!

ຖ້າຫາກບ�ມີ ຕຸກເດ? ທ�ານສາມາດຊ�ຕຸກນ�າ�າກ�າຍ ແ�ບໄ��ຕາມໂ�ງແ�ມ ແ�ະ ຮ�ານອາຫານໃ��ວງພະບາງ. ພວກເ�ົາຍ�ງຂາຍເ��ອງທ�ລະ ນຶກງາມໆເ��ນກ�ນ!

bottle to

reduce

plastic

waste!

ຕື່ມນ�າໃສ່ຕຸກຂອງທ່ານເພື່ອຫຼຸດຜ່ອນ ການໃຊ້ຕຸກຢາງ ຈາກການສຳ� ວດເ�ັ ນ ໄ�� ວ� າ ນ� ກ ທ� ອ ງທ� ຽ ວໄ�� ຖ� ມຕຸ ກ ຢາງ ສະເ��ຍກວ�າ 100 ລ�ານຕຸກຕ�ປີໃ�ລາວ. ຕຸກທ�ຖ�ມໄ�ນ�ນບ�ໄ��ມກ ີ ານ ນໍາມາໃ��ປະໂ�ດອີກ. ໃ��າຍໆຂ�ງເ�ດໃ�ປະເ�ດທ�ບ�ມີລະບ�ບ ການຈ�ດການຂ�ເ��ອທ�ດີ, ປະຊາຊ�ນຈ�ງຈູດຂ�ເ��ອແ�ນ ເ��ງ ເ�ັ ນ ສາເ�ດ�� ກ ທ� ເ�ັ ດ ໃ�� ເ �ີ ດ ມ� ນ ລະພິ ດ ທາງອາກາດທ� ສ� ງ ຜ� ນ ກະທ� ບ ອ� ນ ຮ� າ ຍແ�ງຕ� ສຸ ຂ ະພາບຂອງປະຊາຊ� ນ ເ�� ນ ເ�ັນສາເ�ດຂອງໂ�ກມະເ�ັງ, ອ�ອນເ�ຍ ແ�ະ ໂ�ກຫອບຫືດ. ຂະແ�ງທ�ອງທ�ຽວໃ��ວງພະບາງຈ�ງໄ��ລິເ��ມໂ�ງການການ ��ດຜ�ອນການໃ��ຕຸກຢາງ ໂ�ຍການນໍາຕຸກຂອງຕ�ນເ�ງມາຕ�ມ ນ�າຕາມຈຸດຕ�າງໆ. ໂ�ງການນ�ໄ��ຮບ � ການຮ�ວມມືຈາກບ�ນດາໂ�ງ ແ�ມ, ບໍລສ ິ ດ � ທ�ອງທ�ຽວ, ຮ�ານອາຫານ, ຮ�ານກາເ�, ພິພທ ິ ະພ�ນ ແ�ະ ຫ�າງຮ�ານບໍລສ ິ ດ � �າຍແ��ງ ໃ�ການສະໜອງຈຸດຕ�ມນ�າດ�ມສະອາດ. ໃ�ຊ�ວງເ��ມຕ�ນໂ�ງການ, ນ�ກທ�ອງທ�ຽວ ແ�ະ ປະຊາຊ�ນໃ�ເ�ືອງ ສາມາດຕ�ມນ�າໄ��ຟຣີ, �ື ຄ�ານ�າທ�ຕ�ມໃ��ຕກ ຸ ນ�ນກໍຈະຖືກກວ�າການ ຊ�ນ�າຕຸກໃ��.

Take this map with you or look for the refill sign around town ນໍາແຜນທີ່ນີ້ໄປກັບທ່ານ ຫຼື ຊອກຫາ ສັນຍາລັກຈຸດຕື່ມນ�າທົ່ວເມືອງໄດ້

n ko

Jumbo Guesthouse

Luang Prabang International Airport

Na m

Saffron Cafe

Villa Santi

a ou Wat nx Nong

Ko White Elephant

Ock Pop Tok Heritage

LCCI

Kh on g

n va isa

The Apsara

Tiger Trail Laos Group Tours

a Ro

Sabai White Elephant

Ock Pop Tok Heritage

Royal Palace

White Elephant S Adventures The Deck Tourist Information L'Etranger House Center Traditional Arts and Ethnology Center Ma Te Sai Dara Utopia

LEOT School the Apsara Rive Droite

LCCI

Mountain

Wat ua School oLEOT nx ouApsara Rive Nong Kthe Droite

Novelty Café g on gv Phou Si

Villa Santi

Dyen

Royal Palace Wat Mai

on ek

Saffron The Apsara Cafe

Wat Sene

Ock Pop Tok Shop 3 Nagas

iver

Wat Xieng Thong

iver

Wat Sene

Ock Pop Tok Shop 3 Nagas

R an

The Belle Rive Boutique

Kh R an

The Belle Rive Boutique Na m

Wat Xieng Thong

Dyen Sabai

Tiger Trail Laos Group Tours d Wat That Wat Visouna 13 ad Ro Novelty Café Ro g th Cold River a Maison n ar Amantaka Souvannaphoum o its k v g Phou Si g Kin n a Na m No Mountain ad Khan R iver rra Bo av Ro sa Villa Maly un White Elephant n lath kh Sis Amigo's Trails of Ro isa on ad Mexican Indochina g oth Adventures Ro Ph The Deck ad Tourist Information L'Etranger House Center Traditional Arts and Ph ou Ethnology Center Va oR oa d Parasol Blanc Ma Te Sai Sofitel Dara Tiger Trail Luang Prabang Utopia Bikeshop Sanakeo Boutique Market R lat

Wat Mai

Market

Kit

Tiger Trail Bikeshop

on ek

lat

tsa

Wat That

Phousi Market

Maison Souvannaphoum La Pistoche

h lat isa

Tiger Trail Travel Main Office

rra

o Ph

Villa Maly Ro ad Luang Prabang View

Wat Visoun

Asia Reveal Tour

Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Center

th ra

13 Cold River

Amantaka

Na m

Amigo's Mexican

Khan R iver

Trails of Indochina

Ph o

uV ao

Parasol Blanc

Sofitel Luang Prabang

Sanakeo Boutique

Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Center

Asia Reveal Tour Phousi Market

La Pistoche Tiger Trail Travel Main Office

Luang Prabang View

LUANG PRABANG

g kon

n ba ra g P km an 0 Lu 2

Public Refill Stations ຈຸດຕື່ມນ�າສາທາລະນະ

Laos Buffalo Dairy

Refill Station for In-house Guests ຈຸດຕື່ມນ�າສຳລັບແຂກທີ່ເຂົ້າມາພັກ

The campaign is led by the Department of Information, Culture and Tourism Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang Travel Agents Association and Luang Prabang Hotels and Restaurants Association; supported by “Luang Prabang – Handle with Care”, a project co-funded by the European Union as part of the EU SWITCH Asia II Programme and implemented by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH

EXPLORE

Vibrant and conﬁdent, modern-day Chiang Mai is alive with creativity, making it an exciting destination for even the most fashionable of globetrotters. TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICK SHIPPEN

capitalof

creativity

ention Chiang Mai and many travellers conjure up an image of a peaceful historic city encircled by mountains where life proceeds at a more sedate pace than elsewhere in Thailand, not least because for years it was known as the ‘Rose of the North’. It is no wonder then that most ﬁrst-time visitors are surprised when they arrive in a burgeoning city with a population that exceeds one million people in the metropolitan area. Yes, Chiang Mai enjoys an impressive mountain backdrop, its streets and moats are tree-lined, it is home to numerous ancient temples and bustling fresh food markets, and there is a certain easygoing charm to northern Thai people but in recent years the city has undergone rapid expansion and shaken off the last remnants of its backpacker image, re-emerging as the new capital of Lanna chic and a destination for cultured travellers. Today’s Chiang Mai is renowned for unique hotels, trendy boutiques full of high-quality products created by talented local artisans, and riverside restaurants where diners can enjoy distinctive northern cuisine under the stars. Despite the welcome makeover, Chiang Mai’s fascinating history is still a major attraction. Down the narrow winding lanes of the historic district within the boundaries of the old city wall there is pleasure to be found uncovering gems, such as the city’s oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man, or making a pilgrimage to the most famous temple of all, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which crowns the 1,676-m Suthep mountain and offers panoramic views of the city below. MARCH / APRIL 2018

EXPLORE

ART FOR ART’S SAKE One of the newest attractions that has conﬁrmed Chiang Mai’s reputation as the “Capital of Creativity” is MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum. Housed in a former industrial unit on Sankamphaeng Road, the building’s façade glitters with thousands of mirrored tiles. The museum, houses the personal collection of Jean Michel Beurdeley and his late wife Patsri Bunnag, has tapped into a hunger for contemporary art in Thailand. In the ﬁrst six months, 18,000 came to the museum to see what is undoubtedly the country’s most important collection of contemporary art, and includes works by internationally renowned Thai artists, Apichatpong Weerasethakul and Kamin Lertchaiprasert. The museum also plays host to talks and workshops, as well as changing exhibitions.

iBerry Chiang Mai open daily 10.30 am – 10 pm Soi 7, Nimmanhaemin Road iberryhomemade.com

MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum open from 10 am – 9 pm closed on Tuesdays 122 Moo 7 Tonpao, Sankamphaeng maiiam.com

iBerry Chiang Mai is an ice cream and dessert restaurant set in a large shady garden. Trendy décor, a relaxed atmosphere, and, yes, a 10-metre high pink dog-man wearing sunglasses on the lawn, attract a youthful crowd.

Woo open daily 10 am – 10 am 80 Charoen Rat Road, Wat Ket woochiangmai.com

Across town on Charoenrat Road, Woo, a beautiful café, art gallery and lifestyle shop draws the fashionable Bangkok crowd when they come to town. Here you can relax with an iced coffee, have a light lunch or dinner then browse the boutique for unique arts and crafts.

Many other galleries and art-inspired venues are centred in the Nimmanhaemin Road area. These include Gallery SeeScape, a gallery-cum-coffee shop set up by artist, Torlarp Larpjareonsook to encourage interaction with the city’s creative community. SeeScape open daily 8 am – 8 pm 22/1 Nimmanhaemin Road, Soi 17 facebook.com/ galleryseescape

MARCH / APRIL 2018

EXPLORE

RICH TRADITIONS

Wat Sri Suphan open daily 9 am – 9 pm 100 Wua Lai Rd, Tambon Hai Ya

In Chiang Mai’s old quarter, the Clay Studio Coffee in the Garden is a hidden gem where you can enjoy a coffee or a light meal in a tropical setting. The overgrown tropical garden is full of terracotta images depicting Buddha and other deities, and there is a studio just across the road where you can see the craftsmen at work. For crafts, fashions and gifts, a visit to one of Chiang Mai’s popular ‘Walking Streets’ is essential. Every weekend they attract hordes of shoppers who come to browse, buy local products and eat at the vibrant pavement markets from about 4 p.m. until 10 p.m. when the areas are pedestrianized. On Saturday evenings, Wua Lai Road is lined with vendors and on Sunday the Tae Pae Gate area and Ratchadamneon Road pull in the crowds.

Yet fashionable Chiang Mai is not all about contemporary art; the roots of its rich traditions can still be found within the city. In the Wua Lai district, skilled artisans produce exquisite silverwork using techniques that are thought to have been introduced by Burmese and Shan craftsmen during the 13th century. The crowning achievement of Wua Lai craftsmen and women is Wat Sri Suphan, an exquisite temple which includes a silver ubosot or ordination hall.

Clay Studio Coﬀee open daily 8 am – 5 pm 6 Prapokkloa Rd, Phra Sing Walking Streets every weekend 4 pm – 10 pm Wua Lai Road

CULINARY ART Chiang Mai is also renowned for its culinary arts. Whereas the cuisine of Thailand’s northeast has found popularity throughout the country, northern food is less common outside the region. However, it is a big hit with Thai visitors and few leave without bags full of local delicacies. Of all the wonderfully exotic foods in northern Thailand khao soi is the most famous. In fact, a local adage even goes as far as to say that you haven't really been to Chiang Mai unless you have eaten the local khao soi. The dish is a rich coconut milk curry soup containing either pork or chicken and ladled over a nest of egg noodles. Arguably one of the best (and people will argue about it), can be had at Khao Soi Lam Duan Fahham on Faham Road.

Khao Soi Lam Duan Fahham open daily 9 am – 4.30 pm 352/22 Faham Road

Other local delights include sai oua, a local pork sausage often served in restaurants as ‘Chiang Mai hors d’oeuvres’ along with northern classics, such as nahm prik num, a roasted chilli dip, khairb moo, crispy pig skin and nahm prik ong, a delicious pork and tomato dish. While in the Nimmanhaemin Road area discovering the art galleries, stop for lunch or dinner at Labkai Nimman run by the delightful Kai. There's a feast of regional dishes including, of course, lab kai, a chicken salad. Labkai Nimma open daily 10 am – 10 pm 12/10 Nimmanhemin Road Soi 15 facebook.com/ LabkaiNimman

Chinese Muslim Market open every Friday 6 am to midday opposite Ban Haw Mosque on Soi 1, Charoen Prathet Road

To discover the ethic and culinary diversity of Chiang Mai, rise early on a Friday morning and head to Kad Chin Haw. It is Chiang Mai’s least known but most fascinating Chinese Muslim market. Held every Friday morning from 6 a.m. to midday, this bustling little market has an array of unusual fresh produce, as well as delicious Haw Chinese, Shan and hill tribe foods.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

STAYCATION

MARK

ABOVE

The Landmark Mekong Riverside Hotel stands out in an increasingly busy market BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

ith its bustling streets and growing population, Vientiane may be slowly moving away from its “sleepy” moniker. But right in the centre of town, there’s one place that will always provide a serene escape from the busy city. With its soaring riverfront façade and top-notch views, the Landmark Mekong Riverside Hotel is the best place to enjoy a quiet moment away, whether as a foreign guest or visiting local. The grand lobby, so impressive from the outside, is instantly welcoming as we arrive for our weekend stay. Our room, an Executive Mekong Suite, comprises a living and dining area, complete with a desk by the window, spacious bathroom and oversized

balcony connecting the living and sleeping areas. The décor is a subtle mix of traditional timber furnishings and modern amenities, with all the luxuries you’d expect from a five-star hotel, right down to the fluffy towels and overflowing fruit bowl. It’s so hushed and relaxing, in fact, that it’s almost impossible to believe the amount of work that goes on behind closed doors to accommodate the many foreign dignitaries who choose Landmark as their base while visiting the capital. Of course, Landmark will always be best known for hosting the former United States President during his 2016 state visit. According to Sales and Marketing Director Hyeyoung So, staff spent several months in the lead-up to Obama’s visit meeting the very specific security requirements for the most powerful man in the world. “Most of the preparations had to be carried out very quietly, due to the high security,” she says. “Although we were confident that we were the best hotel in the country and would be completely capable of meeting the needs of Obama and his team, we did have a very tough few months before

and during the visit. Luckily, the visit went very smoothly. Obama was comfortable during his stay, and left safely.” Since then, the roll-call of VIP guests has gone on and on, from the Crown Prince of Cambodia, a Thai Princess, the Queen of Belgium, the presidents of Singapore and Vietnam, the Prime Minister of Korea and, most recently in late 2017, the Chinese President Xi Jinping. "Several days later upon their return home, President Xi and President Obama had sent letters thanking us for our hospitality. That made the months of stressful preparation well worth it," says Ms So. It is this reputation for excellence when it comes to high-class guests that sets Landmark apart from an increasingly crowded hotel market. “I always deﬁne Landmark as unique and unrepeatable, with a distinct blend of modern and classic style,” she says. “We may be located right in the middle of the city, which is getting crowded and growing day by day, but our guests, whether they’re travelling for business or pleasure, can always enjoy a relaxing time away from it all.”

Despite being in grand company as the many illustrious guests who have come before us, we are made to feel every bit as important as we settle into our beautifully appointed suite. Outside, the early January weather is unusually grey and inclement, but it doesn’t matter when there is an entire hotel to explore. From the popular pool – complete with cocktail bar – to the fully appointed gym and several eateries, there is almost no need for any guest to ever leave. But, after a hearty international buffet breakfast in the Brasserie the next morning, it’s time for us to step out the enormous front doors, and wind our way back down to the riverfront, and return to real life.

MORE INFO Landmark Mekong Riverside Hotel is located near the city center along the Mekong river. For bookings visit landmarkmekong riversidehotel.com

“OUR GUESTS CAN ALWAYS ENJOY A RELAXING TIME AWAY FROM IT ALL.”

MARCH / APRIL 2018

STAYCATION

MARCH / APRIL 2018

CLOSE-UP

FOUNTAIN OF

CHANGE

A traditional Vientiane landmark gets a makeover BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

clock tower in a village square is not an unusual sight in a historic city like Vientiane. Nor is a fountain in a plaza, surrounded by tables and chairs and bordered by restaurants and cafes, as traffic moves through the surrounding streets. Vientiane Capital has both, but look closely, and you’ll notice that the attractive terracotta shade of the tower and fountain is unusually fresh, and the whole area feels a tad more spic and span than the rest of the city centre. Although the effect is one of timelessness, Nam Phou Park, as it is now known, has been through many iterations and three generations since it was first built. Indeed, the fountain itself is almost the only constant, an official landmark with its own signs pointing the way for tourists. When Anouza Phothisane was growing up in Vientiane in the 1990s, he used to play soccer in the fields just beyond Nam Phou. The decades-old landmark, with the fountain that bloomed throughout the day and on many evenings, was one of the central features of downtown Vientiane, the site of the city’s first morning market, a meeting place, a place of civic pride. Rising from the centre of a paved plaza, the fountain was surrounded by French colonial-style buildings housing restaurants and cafes, many of which became their own iconic landmarks over the years, like the Scandinavian Bakery and Le Cave des Chateaux. But, by the time Anouza was a teenager and young adult in the early 2000s, Nam Phou had become something else, a dark corner of the city centre. Around 2006, the fountain was switched off to discourage young people gathering in the square, which had become known as a place of disrepute. “That was when the government asked developers to come in and transform it into a nicer public place, something lighter and more welcoming,” says Anouza. A bar went up, several pop-up stalls, and a demountable stage. It was nothing special, but kept the space alive and the undesirables away. But the fountain’s landmark status gradually diminished. Although a grand enough stone structure, the fountain was no longer visible from the city’s main thoroughfare, and its original purpose was lost. Meanwhile, on the banks of the Mekong several streets away, another kind of outdoor gathering spot has been rapidly taking shape. Walking Street, the nightly market and foodfest that fills the lanes and courtyards of the Vientiane New World shopping complex with MARCH / APRIL 2018

CLOSE-UP

Nam Phou in the 1960's

lights and people, is the brainchild of Anouza himself, an alternative nightspot for Vientiane residents. He has since followed up with several more iterations of the concept in town – M Park, near the Culture Hall, and Si Khai Park, past the airport – and has watched as the local night scene has morphed in the space of less than a year. With this kind of magic touch, it was inevitable that the concession owners of Nam Phou would come calling. Anouza took the call in October, and with just two months to transform the space, he set about researching the area’s history, and re-imagining its purpose into a modern context. Even for residents, the transformation seemed to happen in the blink of an eye: the temporary structures were taken down, the clock tower went up, and the whole place cleaned and painted in time for the start of high season in December. With strings of lights, packing crateseats and tables, and a laid-back vibe, the place has the now-familiar Walking Street touch. But Anouza is adamant that he wanted to keep the history of the place alive. “We’ve kept it in the colonial style,

MORE INFO opens every evening at 5 pm Nam Phou itself is considered the centre of Vientiane Capital, and can be reached by taxi or tuk-tuk from any location.

because all the buildings around here are examples of the old French architecture,” he says. “It's the only place left in Vientiane where they're all together in one place, so I didn't want to change the concept. I just put a more modern overlay on it, to keep it attractive to tourists.” He says he wants to give it back the landmark status of his youth, which is why the name of the area has reverted back to ‘Nam Phou Park’. But beyond hints of a modern hipster aesthetic, Anouza is also focusing on making Nam Phou a cultural touchpoint for the many Lao artists who don’t have a creative space. “I have two ideas – one is to have a restaurant and a bar park, and the second is to have a cultural space,” he says. “Parts of this area will be for all artists in Laos – photographers, dancers, musicians – to use the space for free, to do their own art. Most artists don't have a place to rehearse or exhibit their work, or at least not a free space.” This is where the project turns personal; Anouza is one of the founders of dance troupe Lao Bangfai. “I'm also an artist, a choreographer, and I know the situation. We have many artists in town, but they don’t have an easily accessible space to meet and be creative.”

Artwork Fine Crafts Essential Oils Botanicals Skin Care

Vat Inpeng Street For Taxi: Vien-ane, Lao PDR Tel. 021-223178 info@ar-sanslao.com

Natural Products handmade in Lao PDR Products on display atTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Shop Lai Gallery / facebook/LesArtisansLao / info@artisanslao.com

CLOSE-UP

BUSINESS

LS HORIZON HAS THE ANSWERS BY SALLY PRYOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOONSAB THEVONGSA

here is always a solution.” Was there ever a more helpful slogan for foreign investors in Laos? In an environment where many common legal concepts are new or being developed in the Lao legal framework, one legal firm is there to step in. The Lao branch of respected Thai law firm LS Horizon was set up more than 10 years ago to meet the needs of Thai and other foreign investors who want to take advantage of the Lao Government’s foreign investment policy. One of the branch’s original practitioners and current partner Xaynari Chanthala says the firm is often called on to help clients navigate the gap in the law caused by the rapidly evolving nature of investment in Laos. “As a Lao law firm, we are often tasked to help investors navigate this gap in the

law to ensure they are in line in both the spirit and the letter of the law,” she says. “The Lao government’s policy to attract foreign investors, Lao PDR’s commitment to ASEAN, the World Trade Organisation and other important international organisations have given a major boost for international law ﬁrms like ours to establish a presence here.” She says the company’s motto speaks to its objective of providing the most practical legal advice to enable a client to reach its goals. “This means we zealously represent the client in discussions and negotiations with Lao government authorities for a fair solution for the client where there is disagreement in the meaning or application of law,” she says. And this is a frequent scenario in an

emerging economy like Laos, where the practice of law presents multiple challenges. “The legal framework is still developing; as a result, there are still uncertainties and ambiguities in the laws,” says Xaynari. “Such uncertainties and ambiguities can be a challenge to advising an investor. However, sometimes these challenges can be resolved by obtaining clarification and discussions with the relevant government body, who may be willing to accommodate the investor in the absence or ambiguity of law. This occasional form of accommodation can be an unexpected benefit of working in Laos. Finding a solution for the client to overcome working in this country’s investment climate is often gratifying in our line of work.” The firm now provides services in diverse areas of expertise ranging from corporate, commercial, mergers and acquisitions, project finance, and capital markets. “Our experience in different areas of expertise in cross-border transactions helps us to better understand the needs of local and international clients, and to work towards achieving their goals,” she says. “Our team of Lao lawyers are graduates from Laos and foreign universities. The Lao team combined with a network of LS Horizon lawyers in the region make up an effective team to provide clients with international standards of legal service.”

CONTACT lshorizon.com

“OUR EXPERIENCE HELPS US TO BETTER UNDERSTAND THE NEEDS OF INTERNATIONAL CLIENTS AND CONTACT visit lshorizon.com TO WORK TOWARDS ACHIEVING THEIR GOALS.”

Xaynari Chanthala

MARCH / APRIL 2018

BUSINESS

ສະບາຍດີ, ມີຫຍັງໃຫ້ພ ວກເຮົາຊ່ວຍ ບໍ? Hello, How can w e help you ? 你好我们该怎样帮助你?

Laos’ First BPO Contact Center

Marketing

Voice

Link

Messages

Cloud

Social

ONE CONTACT ALL NATIONS info@aseancc.com aseancc.com aseancontactcenter (856) 30 777 5797

MARCH / APRIL 2018

INSIDE LAO AIRLINES

“1626, HOW MAY WE HELP YOU?” How the Lao Airlines call center has put the customer in focus BY LATSAMY PHONEVILAY

s little as one year ago, Lao Airlines customer service representatives were some of the world’s best multi-taskers. From their small office in downtown Vientiane, the harried airline staff were frantically receiving walk-in enquiries, answering phone calls and emails, and booking flights all around the world. A rise in ticket sales meant the two or three landline telephones registered by Lao Airlines were jangling continuously, and not enough calls could be answered in time. “We were receiving too many calls to be able to cope, and so we decided it was time to set up a professional call center,” says Khounphon Philakone, Deputy Director of the Commercial Department. A deal was struck with the ASEAN Contact Center, a Canadian-Lao company, to establish a professional and international standard call center at the Lao Airlines ofﬁce. Dedicated operators would now be placed in charge of all calls, and a special number chosen: 1626. “After only three months of introducing the new number we were receiving up to

“WE AIM TO STAY ONE STEP AHEAD”

300 calls per day,” says Khounphon. “With eight full time operators stafﬁng the phones, we take calls from within Laos and all around the world,” he says. Not surprisingly, most of the enquiries are about ticket prices, routes and flight vacancies. Lao Airlines also takes payments by phone, including credit card payments, while many local customers have begun taking advantage of banking applications to transfer funds electronically. “We aim to stay one step ahead, and so in the future we hope to operate a 24-hour hotline and add a live chat function to the Lao Airlines website and mobile application,” says Khounphon. “We will also offer assistance in other languages, such as Chinese, Korean and the languages of countries that Lao Airlines flies to.”

CONTACT The Lao Airlines contact center is available every day from 6 am to 8 pm by dialing 1626 locally, or +856 21 510040/211051 internationally. Download the Lao Airlines smartphone app from the App Store or Google Play.

MARCH / APRIL 2018

on the

air

UPDATES

LAO AIRLINE NEWS TIMETABLES AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES OFFICES

LAO AIRLINES NEWS

Lao Airlines Receives Information Security ISO CertiďŹ cate Laos is developing comprehensively, and many government and private sector organizations are taking advantage international systems and standards for use in internal administration. However, alongside modern tools and innovations, there is no absence of risks and threats. Threats to information security are considerable, and it is necessary to minimize and protect against inconsistencies, risks, potential crimes and the loss of sensitive information. The use of technology to modernize is one commitment to development being made by Lao Airlines and is evident in many areas, such as improvement of service quality, ticketing and reservations, ground services, and air services, which have led to Lao Airlines receiving the ISO 27001:2013 certiďŹ cation of Information Security Management Systems. This is one more step toward success for Lao Airlines, in order to assist the airline in remaining competitive and in line with the government directive of promotion of comprehensive development.

3ມື້

ສຽມລຽບ-ພະນົມເປນ

: champaholidays3@laoairlines.com

25-29/03/18

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VIENTIANE

SAVANNAKHET

VIENTIANE

XIENGKHUANG

VIENTIANE

OUDOMXAY

VIENTIANE

LUANGNAMTHA

VIENTIANE

LUANGPRABANG

VIENTIANE

PAKSE

SAVANNAKHET

PAKSE

LAUNGPRABANG

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WINTER TIMETABLE 2018

LAO AIRLINES PARTNERS

WINTER TIMETABLE 2017 INTERNATIONAL ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງລະຫວ�າງປະເທດ DAY

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

12:30

QV811

AT7

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ

LUANGPRABANG > JINGHONG Th Su

10:30

ສິງກະໂປ

> SINGAPORE W F Su

07:40

Transit (VTE) Arr. 08:25

PAKSE

13:25

QV535

A320

09:25

09:45

ບາງກອກ -

10:55

QV223

AT7

11:20

QV515

AT7

ໂຮຈີມິນ 0

ສຽມຣຽບ

> SIEMREAP

SAVANNAKHET

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

13:10

QV812

ຊຽງຮຸ�ງ Th Su

ສິງກະໂປ W F Su

AT7

14:15

17:45

QV536

A320

> 1

BANGKOK > 11:50

13:20

QV224

AT7

12:00

13:35

QV516

HO CHI MINH > AT7

ສຽມຣຽບ

SIEMREAP >

13:00

14:00

QV513

AT7

Daily

14:40

15:40

QV514

AT7

T Th

08:55

09:55

QV511

AT7

T Th

10:30

11:30

QV512

AT7

10:55

QV223

AT7

11:50 -

14:30

QV224

AT7

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

QV112

AT7

M W F S Su

08:25

ບາງກອກ

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 08:55

Dep. 09:25

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

PAKSE

Daily

> BANGKOK

LUANGPRABANG

Dep. 17:00

ໂຮຈີມິນ T Th S

SINGAPORE

ບາງກອກ M W F S Su

A/C

JINGHONG > 13:10

Transit (VTE) Arr. 16:10

> HO CHI MINH T Th S

Dep. 09:30

> BANGKOK M W F S Su

DAY

BANGKOK >

Transit (PKZ) Arr. 13:20

SAVANNAKHET

Dep. 14:00

DOMESTIC ROUTE / ເສັ້ນທາງພາຍໃນປະເທດ DAY

VIENTIANE

DEP.

ARR.

FLIGHT NO.

A/C

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

> LUANGPRABANG

DAY

DEP.

ຫຼວງພະບາງ

LUANGPRABANG >

Daily

09:10

10:00

QV111

AT7

M T Th S

07:40

08:30

Daily

11:30

12:15

QV101

A320

W F Su

07:40

08:25

QV535

A320

Daily

13:05

13:50

QV102

A320

T W Th S Su

14:35

15:20

QV106

A320

M W F Su

18:45

19:35

QV104

A320

T Th S

18:45

19:35

QV104

AT7

T W Th S Su 13:00

13:45

QV105

A320

M T Th S

17:00

17:45

QV103

A320

W F Su

17:00

17:45

QV536

A320

ຫຼວງນ�້າທາ

> LUANGNAMTHA Daily

11:50

13:05

QV601

AT7

Daily

12:20

12:50

QV401

AT7

> OUDOMXAY Daily

ຊຽງຂວາງ

> XIENGKHUANG

Daily

ອຸດົມໄຊ

15:20

QV501

AT7

T Th

07:00

08:15

QV511

AT7

T Th S

07:50

09:05

QV515

AT7

08:00