Seoul Searching
Xay Fong
The City of 300 Temples
Souphattra Heritage Vientiane
Chez Auguste Café Crêperie
LUANG PRABANG – NAM NGUM – PAKBENG
Mekong Elephant Park Sanctuary
President & CEO's Message
Sabaidee
Dear Passengers,
Sabaidee and welcome aboard Lao Airlines!
Thank you for choosing us as your travel partner during this enchanting season. I am delighted to present this September/October edition of Champa Meuanglao, perfectly timed to celebrate the end of Buddhist Lent and our nation's most spectacular festivals.
As Luang Prabang prepares for its mesmerizing Fireboat Festival, where flickering flames dance upon the Mekong River, Vientiane and Pakse come alive with the thunderous energy of traditional boat racing festivals. These celebrations embody the soul of our people and our deep connection to the mighty Mekong.
Viengxay Singkham
President & CEO of Lao Airlines
Our dedicated crew stands ready to ensure your comfort and safety throughout your flight.
Safe travels, and may your journey be filled with wonder.
With our highest respect,
Hello Readers,
Welcome to the September-October issue of Champa Meuanglao. In this issue:
The end of Buddhist Lent is upon us and will be celebrated with great fanfare in Vientiane and Luang Prabang with fireboat processions and a boat racing festival.
Souphattra Heritage Hotel offers luxury right in the heart of downtown Vientiane in French colonial buildings with all the mod cons.
Visit the sights (and eats) of Seoul with the intrepid Mick Shippen as he trades the temples of Southeast Asia for the bustling streets of South Korea.
See an unknown corner of greater Vientiane with a long and interesting history dating back to the Khmer Empire - Xay Fong!
Happy Reading!
The Champa Meuanglao team
Editor In Chief Editor
Contributing Editor
Creative Director
Contributing Writers
Head Photographer
Contributing Photographer
PUBLISHING
Jason Rolan
Vannaleth Phimphachanh
Vilavanh Chanthavong
Phounsouk Samounty
Vila Phounvongsa / Snaé History
Mick Shippen
Phoonsab Thevongsa
Mick Shippen
ADVISORY BOARD
Viengxay Singkham
Managing Director
Saleum Tayarath
Deputy Managing Director of Commercial and Marketing, ICT
Sitthideth Douangsiththy
Deputy Managing Director of Ground Handling and Cargo
Phaythoun Kounsouvanh
Deputy Managing Director of Finance
LAO AIRLINES STATE ENTERPRISE LIMITED
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Champa Meuanglao is published bi-monthly for Lao Airlines State Enterprise by RDK Group. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Champa Meuanglao do not necessarily reflect those of Lao Airlines State Enterprise or its publishing agents. All information in Champa Meuanglao is correct at time of printing. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.
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Photo: Mick Shippen
皮肤护理
天然手工皂
纯天然精油
香薰蜡烛
天然手工皂
手工艺术品 来自老挝纯手工制作的天然有机产品
天然精油大豆香薰蜡烛
WHERE HERITAGE WHISPERS
A Stay at Souphattra Heritage Vientiane
Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Souphattra Heritage Vientiane
In the heart of Vientiane’s old town, just beyond the honk and hum of the city’s rising modernity, stands a property that doesn’t clamor for attention— it invites you, gently. Souphattra Heritage Vientiane is not a hotel you merely stay at; it’s one you inhabit, like a well-crafted novel, page by sun-drenched page.
Once the Thai Ambassador’s Residence, this colonial-era mansion has been meticulously reimagined into a boutique retreat that reads like a love letter to Lao culture. Its French-inspired facades and timber balconies overlook quiet courtyards and a jewel-blue pool, wrapped in flowering vines. Inside, each of the 26 rooms and suites is its own chapter—polished teak, silken textiles, and modern furnishings weave together a sense of place that is unmistakably Lao, yet luxuriously timeless.
But beyond the beauty, it is the narrative that matters. At Souphattra, the story is one of cultural continuity. General Manager Pacharamonaporn Kreuasukhon speaks of the hotel not as a business but as a responsibility—a living archive where the soul of old Vientiane is curated with care. “We are storytellers of Lao heritage,” she says, and it’s hard to disagree. Every corridor is a quiet exhibit; every suite, a subtle performance of grace and intention.
C ulinary exploration is another thread in the Souphattra experience— stitched together through three distinct dining spaces, each with its own rhythm and character. Sivilai, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, blends contemporary flair with traditional Lao recipes, offering seasonal menus that feel both comforting and quietly adventurous. Le Café, located near the lobby, is where mornings blend into the afternoon—with the hum of conversation, a sumptuous cake, and locally roasted coffee that lingers on the palate. Then there’s QIU19, a bold reinterpretation of Chinese cuisine and dim sum culture. With its sultry lighting, gold accents, and curated cocktails, it plays host to evenings that stretch effortlessly from dinner into nightcap. Together, they offer a sensorial arc that complements the hotel’s refined tone—never overstated, always intentional.
The location is poetic. Step outside and you’re just minutes from the historical significance of Wat Sisaket,
the quiet serenity of Wat Ong Teu, or the bustle of the Mekong Night Market. Yet cross the threshold back into Souphattra, and the city recedes. You find yourself in an oasis—one that feels more temple than hotel, more home than hideaway.
The “Souphattra Experience” is no mere tagline.
Guests can try their hand at Lao culinary traditions through immersive cooking classes led by in-house chefs. There’s no pomp, just practice—banana leaf parcels, aromatic herbs, gentle laughter from the kitchen’s open shutters. The result: a plate that is not just delicious, but deeply rooted.
Sustainability is no afterthought either. Here, luxury walks hand in hand with responsibility—biodegradable
For bookings or more info, visit souphattra.com.
Getting there:
Lao Airlines flies to Vientiane from many domestic and regional airports.
amenities, locally sourced ingredients, and partnerships with artisans and craftsmen keep the experience grounded. The approach is quiet, but firm. Like much of Souphattra, it doesn’t need to shout to make a point.
Describing the stay in three words, the team offers: Oasis. Heritage. Hospitality. But perhaps one more is needed: Presence. For it’s in the stillness between temple visits and poolside tea, in the rustle of linens and the hush of the gardens, that Souphattra leaves its most lasting impression—not in spectacle, but in attention.
In a city dancing between past and present, Souphattra Heritage Vientiane doesn’t take sides. It simply holds the door open and invites you to dwell— elegantly, consciously, and perhaps, for a moment, timelessly.
ທ່ານ
Pacharamonaporn Kreuasukhon,
在 时 光 低 语 处 栖 居
万象苏帕特拉遗产酒店 (Souphattra Heritage Vientiane)小驻
文字：Jason Rolan
图片：万象苏帕特拉遗产酒店 (Souphattra Heritage Vientiane)译者 航
在万象老城的腹地，现代都市的喧嚣 渐远，一座建筑在此谦逊地静候——以温 柔姿态相邀。苏帕特拉遗产酒店并非寻常 下榻之处，它是一处可沉浸式栖居的所在， 如同徐徐展开的鎏金书页，可逐章细品。
这座殖民时代建筑曾泰国驻老挝大使 官邸，如今被精心重塑成向老挝文化致意 的精品酒店。法式立面和木质回廊环抱着 花蔓掩映的碧蓝泳池，26间客房与套房各 成篇章：柚木光泽、丝缎织品与现代家具 交织出独特的老挝韵味，奢华感却可超越 时空。
但比之优雅更动人的是它的故事。在 苏帕特拉遗产酒店，其故事正是文化传承 的核心。总经理帕查拉蒙纳蓬·克鲁萨孔 并没有将酒店视为一门生意，而是文化传 承的责任——一座精心守护万象旧时灵魂 的"活态档案馆"。正如她所说，"我们都是 老挝遗产的说书人"，此言不虚。每道走廊 都是静默的展廊，每间套房都是优雅的叙 事诗。
美食探索是苏帕特拉遗产酒店入住体 验的另一脉络，酒店共有三处就餐区域，各 有其节奏和特点：全日餐厅Sivilai以现代 手法演绎老挝古法料理，时令菜单既慰藉 乡愁又暗藏惊喜；大堂侧的Le Café咖啡 馆任由晨光流转为午后絮语，配以惊艳的 本地烘焙咖啡；而QIU19中餐厅则以暧昧 灯光与鎏金元素，将广式点心文化重新解 构，让晚宴自然延展成微醺时光。三者形成 的感官弧线，与酒店内敛气质相得益彰。
酒店选址更显诗意：信步可达西萨格 寺的沧桑佛影、翁德寺的静谧禅意，或是湄 公河夜市的烟火气。但转身跨回酒店门槛， 尘嚣立散。这座似庙宇非旅馆、如归家非遁 世的绿洲，令人恍入结界。
"苏帕特拉入住体验"
绝非虚言。宾客可随主厨亲制作老挝 餐，在炊香与欢语中触摸老挝食俗；可持续 理念亦贯穿始终：可降解用品、当地食材、 匠人合作，奢华中见担当。这一餐滋味之 外，更见文化根骨。
预订及详情请访问： souphattra.com。
如何到达：老挝航空有很多国内及国 际航线飞往万象。
可持续理念亦非事后补缀。在这里，奢 华与责任始终同行——可降解的客用品、 就地取材的时令风味、与当地匠人的深度 合作，让每一次体验都扎根于这片土地。这 份坚持低调的坚定，正如苏帕特拉一贯的 品格：无需喧哗，自有力量。
若用三个词来概括在苏帕特拉遗产酒 店的入住体验，团队会选：绿洲、遗产和待 客之道。但或许还需加上"享受此刻"——因 为在庙宇巡礼与池畔茶歇的间隙，在亚麻 床簌与花园私语处，苏帕特拉以专注细节 而非浮华，留下最深的印记。
在这座徘徊于古今之间的城市，苏帕 特拉遗产酒店不选边站队。它只是优雅地 敞开大门，邀您停留——清醒地、隽永地， 或许，刹那即永恒。
Text
by: Vila Phounvongsa ( from: Snaé History)
Maps and Photos by:
Translated by: Jason
Khitsana Soukkasanh, Jason Rolan
Rolan
Just 20 kilometers southeast of Vientiane, where the Mekong bends and the rice fields roll out like a green carpet, lies a quiet district with a surprisingly mighty past Xay Fong. At first glance, it may seem like any other riverside village. But look a little closer or take a wrong turn on purposeand you’ll discover ancient ruins hidden in gardens, They call it The City of 300 Temples a place where history, legend, and everyday life intertwine, waiting for curious visitors to wander in.
Vientiane
A
Khmer Origin:
Xay Fong’s story begins in the Khmer era, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181–1218 AD), one of Angkor’s most powerful monarchs. At the height of his rule, the Khmer Empire pushed northward into presentday Laos, extending its reach to what is now the Vientiane region. At that time, Xay Fong was a modest Tai settlement, but around 1186 AD, its strategic riverside location made it an ideal site for a northern administrative hub. The city of Xay Fong was established and became part of the empire's expanding influence along the Mekong.
Xay Fong
Xay Fong in the Lane Xang Era: Following Jayavarman VII’s death, the Khmer Empire began to weaken. In 1356 AD, Fa Ngum, the founder of the Lane Xang Kingdom, incorporated Vientiane and Xay Fong into his emerging Lao state.
A lthough the city’s prominence gradually faded, Xay Fong remained relevant until the reign of King Setthathirath (1550–1572), when Vientiane became the new capital of Lane Xang in 1560. By then, Xay Fong had become a quieter outpost, though its riverside location kept it active in trade. Under King Souriyavongsa (1638–1695), Xay
Xay Fong Map in 1902 ( by G. Maspero)
King Jayavarman VII statue and a stone inscription discovered in Xay Fong in 1902
Fong functioned as a trading town along with Wiang Khuk, its sister settlement across the river.
Fast-forward to the present day: between 2022 and 2025, surveys in villages like Khok Xay revealed ancient pagodas and Buddha statues nestled in fields and home gardens. A 2009 study by scholar Anna Karlström recorded remains of over 300 temples in the greater Xay Fong region—220 in Xay Fong and 80 in Wiang Khuk—many dating back to the 16th century. This flowering of temple construction earned the era the title Golden Age of Lane Xang.
The Decline of Xay Fong:
T he death of King Souriyavongsa in 1695 marked the beginning of Lane Xang’s fragmentation. In 1707, the kingdom split into two: Luang Prabang and Vientiane, with Xay Fong falling under the latter. In 1731, Champasak also broke away, forming a third Lao state.
In 1779, all three kingdoms were conquered by Siam (Thailand). Later, in 1826–1828, King Anouvong of Vientiane
l aunched an ill-fated rebellion against Siamese rule. After his defeat, Vientiane was razed, and much of the population— including those in Xay Fong—was relocated across the Mekong. The once-thriving towns of Xay Fong and Wiang Khuk became quiet rural villages.
What’s in a Name?
The origin of the name “Xay Fong” is uncertain, but two main theories exist:
Theory 1: “Xay” derives from Jaya, the Pali-Sanskrit word for “victory,” and may refer to King Jayavarman VII. “Fong” derives from the Lao word “phong”, meaning “white,” “clean,” or “bright.” Together, the name could mean “glorious victory” or “the glory of Jayavarman.”
Theory 2: “Xay” derives from the Lao word for “sand,” while “Fong” derives from “bubble” or “wave”; together, they form “the city of waving sands.” Local tradition supports this, as Xay Fong has the largest sandbank in Vientiane. Today, the district is officially called “Had Xay Fong,” with Had meaning “beach.”
Further research from scholars and future generations may offer clearer insight.
The vast beach of Xay Fong (Ban Hat-Kan-Xa)
Photo Credit: FB Page: BAN HOM (
Exploring Xay Fong Today:
Just a 20-minute drive southeast from central Vientiane via Tha Deua Road and the Chinaimo roundabout, Xay Fong offers visitors a peaceful escape filled with cultural and natural attractions.
Where to Eat & Shop:
- Enjoy rice vermicelli with spicy ginger sauce and grilled fish by the Mekong, with stunning river views.
- Pick up crispy pork rinds at Keng Pa Yang, a popular local snack.
- Browse Snaé Shop in Ban Pho Ngan for locally made souvenirs such as T-shirts and bags.
What to See:
- Visit historic 16th-century temples like Thong That, Nong Kham Saen, Pa Ley Lai, and Nak Hor Pha. Local legend claims that Nak Hor Pha Temple once contained a hidden cave connected to Nong Kham Saen Lake, allowing Naga river serpents to travel between the two.
- Discover scattered stupas and Buddha statues made of clay, some intact, others gently fading into the fields they’ve watched over for generations.
Above: A new Naga statue at Wat Nong Kham Saen and the lake covered in lilies
N ong Kham Saen: The Legendary Lake
No trip to Xay Fong is complete without a visit to Nong Kham Saen—an 86-hectare natural lake and the last remaining wetland on Vientiane’s outskirts. It’s home to more than 175 species and steeped in legend.
In 1902, French archaeologist G. Maspero documented a haunting local legend: “on full moon nights, a golden boat is said to float above the lake, accompanied by the sound of distant music. Those who see it are doomed to die within the year, cursed by the lake’s spirits”.
T he lake’s name, meaning “Hundred Thousand Gold Lake,” comes from another tale. During the construction of That Luang Stupa, devoted villagers loaded rafts with gold to support the project. Upon hearing it had already been completed, they sorrowfully dumped their treasure into the lake. The name Nong Kham Saen has endured ever since.
A Living Past
Today, Xay Fong might not make it into glossy travel brochures, and that’s part of its charm. Its temples are quiet, its legends live in local memory, and its food is full of authentic flavors.
Whether you’re a history buff, a spiritual seeker, or just someone with a curiosity for riverside life, Xay Fong rewards those who wander off the map—and into the past.
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ຊາຍຟອງ
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ໜອງຄຳແສນ
NONG KHAM SAEN
DOI KA NOI’S FINAL DISH
How a Lao Chef’s Cookbook Became Her Greatest Legacy
When Chef Ponpailin 'Noi' Kaewduangdee attended the glittering Asia's 50 Best awards ceremony in Seoul earlier this year, she made history. Her Vientiane restaurant, Doi Ka Noi, had become the first Lao establishment ever featured on the prestigious list. Months later, the 45-year-old chef's unexpected passing would close the restaurant forever—but her greatest legacy was yet to be fully realized.
Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Mick Shippen
Left: Noi was a passionate ambassador for Lao cuisine.
Right: Noi making offerings of food at the temple in her village
A Rising Star Cut Short
D oi Ka Noi had earned its reputation through Noi's commitment to authentic Lao recipes and everchanging seasonal menus. The restaurant's philosophy reflected the chef's deep connection to her culinary heritage, with many dishes inspired by recipes passed down from her grandmother or discovered during travels to remote Lao villages.
L ao cuisine, with its emphasis on fresh herbs, fermented fish sauce, and sticky rice, has long remained one of Southeast Asia's best-kept culinary secrets. Noi was determined to change that. She was the first and only Lao member of the Slow Food movement, dedicated to preventing the disappearance of local food cultures and traditions.
Her constantly evolving menus celebrated whatever seasonal ingredients were freshest at local markets, introducing diners to the complex flavors and timehonored techniques that define Lao cooking.
International Recognition
Before her passing, Chef Noi collaborated with her husband, British writer and photographer Mick Shippen, to publish A Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi’s Lao Kitchen in late 2024. The 500-page volume showcases traditional Lao recipes while telling the deeply personal story of a chef devoted to preserving her culinary heritage.
In June, the cookbook was honored at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Lisbon, Portugal, an event often described as the Olympics of food publishing. Competing against hundreds of entries from around the globe, A Child of the Rice Fields took first place for "Best Asian Cookbook."
The book was also named runner-up in the “Best Cookbook in the World” category and fourth in the “Food Heroes” category, which celebrates individuals who safeguard culinary traditions.
“Thank you, Noi and Mick, for this 500-page tribute to the heart and soul of Lao cuisine,” said Edouard Cointreau, President and Founder of the Gourmand Awards. “The world truly needed this passionate, generous, and beautifully illustrated guide.”
Preserving a Culinary Legacy
T he impact of A Child of the Rice Fields continues to grow worldwide. British celebrity chef Nigella Lawson praised it as "a big, beautiful, lovingly created book: a feast for the curious cook and a comprehensive and intimately authoritative primer on a fascinating culinary culture."
Speaking at the Lisbon awards ceremony, Mick reflected on the bittersweet recognition: "I am so proud but heartbroken she was not with me to hear the praise and adoration for our work."
H e has vowed to continue Noi's mission, completing two additional books they had begun together—one on the ethnic foods of Northern Laos and another on the fruits, vegetables, and foraged foods found in Lao markets.
" We have completed more than half of the recipes for the Northern Laos book, and although finishing it without Noi will be a difficult and emotional task, I need to do it for her," Mick explains. "When she passed away, a huge amount of knowledge was lost. We had so much more planned to ensure Lao culinary culture was preserved and promoted."
A Global Impact
T he cookbook has reached readers across continents, from Australia to Poland, Switzerland to Taiwan. For many, it represents their first deep encounter with Lao cuisine—a testament to Noi's vision of sharing her culture with the world.
"Noi, through her restaurant and book, did more than anyone to promote Lao food internationally," says Mick. "Over the last few weeks, I have received hundreds of messages from people around the world expressing their sadness and recalling fond memories of her and dining at Doi Ka Noi."
A Child of the Rice Fields stands as the most comprehensive cookbook capturing the depth and diversity of Lao flavors, significantly contributing to the safeguarding of the nation's culinary heritage. Through her work, Noi ensured that the stories and spirit of Lao cuisine continue to reach kitchens and hearts around the world, one dish, and one story at a time.
"If interest in Lao food continues to grow around the world, it will be largely due to Noi," reflects Mick. "That fills me with pride, but also breaks my heart that she is not here to see how important she was."
For more information or to purchase the book in Laos, contact Doi Ka Noi: fb.com/DoiKaNoiVientiane
Photos: Noi’s multi-award-winning book is lavishly illustrated with more than 400 photographs.
Child of the Rice Fields: Recipes from Noi's Lao Kitchen.'.
"Gourmand World Cookbook Awards"
(Edouard Cointreau)
(Nigella Lawson)
SEOUL SEARCHING
Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Mick Shippen
Entry to Gyeongbokgung, the 'great blessings palace,' is free to those who dress up in Korean hanbok national dress
Gyeongbokgung,
Right: Dressing in traditional hanbok costumes is incredibly popular. Numerous shops near the palace rent costumes.
S easoned food and travel writer and photographer, Mick Shippen had numerous preconceived notions about mega-cities; sprawling concrete jungles where ancient culture gets steamrolled by skyscrapers, where street food means fast food, and where the only temples you'll find are shopping malls dedicated to consumerism. Seoul, with its 10 million inhabitants, should have been the poster child for all his urban anxieties.
Mick’s recent stay in Seoul was like opening a steamed lotus leaf wrap. The layers peeled back to reveal delectable morsels that first needed to be admired...and then devoured with relish. Walking through the narrow alleys of Bukchon Hanok Village, Shippen found himself dodging both tourists with selfie sticks and locals in hanbok carrying the latest iPhone—sometimes the same person.
T he real revelation came in the eating, naturally. From the smoke-wreathed grills of Myeongdong's street stalls to the temple-quiet precision of a traditional tea ceremony, Seoul serves up its contradictions on a platter. These photographs capture that beautiful collision— where 600-year-old palaces cast shadows over neon-lit karaoke bars. This is Seoul in all its gloriously chaotic harmony, a city that's figured out how to honor its ancestors while texting the future.
Left: A guard at Gyeongbokgung
Gyeongbokgung
Left: Statue of King Sejong the Great in Gwanghwamun Square.
Center and right: It’s fun to discover food, photo-ops and architecture in downtown Seoul.
Getting there:
Lao Airlines has daily flights from Vientiane to Seoul.
For food and drink, head to Myeongdong Night Market
Insadong is a popular pedestrianized zone with restaurants, tea houses, boutiques, and galleries
Insadong
Colorful Jogyesa Temple is a short walk from the popular shopping street, Insadong
Ahighlight of anytrip to Seoulis the food. Discover new flavors at Gwangjang Market.
Gwangjang
U LUANG PRABANG
Where heritage meets hospitality
• 24-Hour Room Use – Your stay, your rhythm
• International Cuisine – A feast for every moment
• Immerse in the city’s charm – Culture at your doorstep
• Tranquil retreat in the heart of Luang Prabang
• Signature Cocktails – Unique blends of Lao and exotic flavors
• Ur Drink – Crafted by you, using locally sourced ingredients
Open to all guests and visitors!
*Room rates starting from $99++
*Stay your way. Live the moment.
• Morning Delight Set – Latte, cold drink, croissants, fruit.
U Luang Prabang
Ban Vat Nong, Kounxoau Road
Luang Prabang, Laos
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Website (ເ�ັບໄ�): www.uluangprabang.com
Fire and Frenzy Laos after Lent
Text by: Jason Rolan
by: Phoonsab Thevongsa
T here's a moment, just as Buddhist Lent draws to a close each October, when all of Laos seems to exhale. The rains have swollen the Mekong to its fullest, the weather has turned warm and golden, and the entire country prepares to celebrate in the most spectacular way possible, in a blaze of water, flame, and devotion.
On the same blessed day, this year falling on October 8th, just
after the full moon, two of Laos' most enchanting festivals unfold along the banks of the mighty Mekong. In Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital becomes a flickering wonderland of floating fire. Forty minutes south by plane, Vientiane erupts into a frenzy of racing boats and thunderous cheers. Both celebrations mark the end of Buddhist Lent, but each captures a different facet of the Lao soul.
Photos
A fireboat takes to the Mekong
Getting there:
daily
Luang Prabang: Where Fire Dances on Water
Nothing quite prepares visitors for their first Fireboat Festival in Luang Prabang. As dusk settles over this UNESCO World Heritage city, something magical begins to stir. The electricity seems to dim, not by accident, but by design. Every temple, every shophouse, every home abandons the harsh glare of modern lighting for the gentle flicker of candles and paper lanterns. The entire city becomes a living, breathing work of art.
A s the parade begins, entire villages present their heua fai—their fireboats—like proud parents showing off beloved children. These aren't simple rafts. They're towering works of devotion: bamboo frames draped in colored paper, adorned with mythical creatures that seem to glow from within. Some are elegantly simple, others are baroque masterpieces that took months to create.
The parade itself is pure theater. Drums pound ancient rhythms while voices rise in traditional songs that have echoed through these streets for centuries. The procession moves slowly, almost dreamlike, allowing
every detail to be savored. Children dart between the floats with sparklers, their laughter compounding the reverie of the scene.
T he magic continues down to the river, when those first boats are launched into the Mekong's dark waters, and time seems to suspend. The flames reflect and multiply on the surface, creating constellations of light that drift downstream like fallen stars. Standing there, watching this ancient ritual unfold, you understand why the Lao believe these boats carry away bad luck and bring blessings for the year ahead.
T his isn't just spectacle, it's communion. The boats are offerings of gratitude to the river that gives life to the nation. In a world increasingly disconnected from nature, there's something profoundly moving about witnessing an entire community come together to say thank you to a river.
Top:
Bottom: A fireboat begins its voyage down the Mekong
1: Fireboats are lit totally by candles and lanterns
2: A carnival sets up in time for the boat races
3: Rowers must paddle hard and fast to win
Lao Airlines has
flights to both Vientiane and Luang Prabang from many cities in Laos and throughout the region
Locals parade a fireboat down main street
Vientiane: Racing Hearts and Thunderous Joy
D ownriver in Vientiane, it’s a very different energy—but no less intoxicating. On the same day as the fireboats float north, the Boat Racing Festival (Boun Xouang Heua) here is organized chaos at its most beautiful, with thousands of people crowding the riverbank, the air thick with incense and grilled fish, and the Mekong transformed into a watery racetrack where village pride is everything.
Arriving early rewards visitors not with longboat races themselves—they don't start until the afternoon—but with the remarkable buildup. Each longboat arrives decorated like a
Two Rivers, One Heart
What strikes observers most about these twin festivals is how perfectly they complement each other. Luang Prabang offers contemplation and spiritual connection; a chance to slow down and remember what really matters. Vientiane provides pure adrenaline and communal celebration; a reminder that life is meant to be lived with passion and purpose.
B oth festivals share the same deep well of meaning: gratitude for the Mekong River that sustains this nation, respect for traditions that bind communities together, and an understanding that some of life's greatest pleasures are also its simplest. Laos doesn’t just mark the end of Lent. It lights it, paddles it, sings it, and shares it with joy, reverence, and a river that never stops flowing.
G etting there: Lao Airlines has daily flights to both Vientiane and Luang Prabang from many cities in Laos and throughout the region
floating garden festooned with flowers, flags, and banners proclaiming which village, temple, or organization they represent. The crew wears matching outfits and arrives already chanting, their rhythmic songs designed to build team spirit and intimidate the competition. You can feel the electricity in the air, the culmination of months of preparation and anticipation.
W hen the races begin, the riverbank explodes. Thousands of voices merge into a single roar of encouragement, drums thunder, and the boats slice through the water with surprising grace. Men's teams,
women's teams, mixed crews— everyone gets their moment of glory. The winners earn more than trophies; they earn bragging rights that will last until next year's festival.
B eyond the races, a carnival unfolds: grilled chicken and khao lam (sticky rice steamed in bamboo) sizzle on roadside barbecues, children ride spinning wheels, monks bless onlookers, and open-air concerts keep the party humming into the night. The scent of incense mingles with fried banana, and bursts of fireworks close the day with a flourish of color.
ແສງໄຟ
The festive atmosphere of Luang Prabang's Fireboat Festival
One of the floats in the procession of fireboats
Racing boats ply the Mekong
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creativity, and making your brand’s voice sing loud and clear, resonating throughout the marketplace.
Airlines Updates
LAO AIRLINES NEWS | AIRLINE PARTNERS FLIGHT ROUTES | OFFICES
Lao
MINISTER OF PUBLIC WORKS AND TRANSPORT VISITS LAO AIRLINES
In early August, Minister of Public Works and Transport Mr. Leklai Sivilay paid an official visit to Lao Airlines, where he was briefed on the national carrier’s operational progress and strategic plans. Executives from Lao Airlines presented key developments, including the airline’s current fleet of 12 aircraft and its ongoing efforts to enhance regional connectivity. Notably, the airline plans to lease an additional COMAC C909 to meet rising demand during the 2025 high tourism season.
The visit also highlighted Lao Airlines’ strong commitment to safety, with preparations underway for its sixth IOSA (IATA Operational Safety Audit), scheduled for August 5–8. The Minister commended the airline for its adherence to international standards and its growing network, which includes 7 domestic routes, 7 international destinations, and 6 charter services.
A s Lao Airlines continues exploring regional partnerships, in
addition to its codeshare agreements with Bangkok Airways and VietJet, the Minister reaffirmed government support for further collaboration with COMAC of China to elevate the airline's capabilities and position it as a key ASEAN carrier.
M r. Leklai Sivilay’s visit underscored the government’s recognition of Lao Airlines as a vital component in national infrastructure and regional integration.
Vila PHOUNVONGSA and his shop in Vientiane.
“The three Lao ladies in the 1000 kip bill is my inspiration”
The Power of Kip
My breakthrough came with T-shirts featuring the three women from the 1,000 kip note. This design was deeply personal - growing up poor, my mother would give my brother and me a thousand kip each for school lunch. The post-COVID inflation crisis added another layer of meaning. I reasoned that since every Lao person recognized these three women from different ethnic groups, why not put this familiar image on wearable art?
On August 15, 2022, I posted a mock-up of the design on Facebook. Within minutes, purchase inquiries flooded in,
including wholesale requestsall before production had even begun. The response was so overwhelming that I had to turn off my phone for three days and temporarily stop taking orders. The 1,000 kip note, first issued in 1992, found new life 30 years later through my designs. Even young children recognized it as the "banknote of the buffalo," nicknamed for the herds depicted on its reverse side. Today, I run SNAÉ SHOP. My product line focuses on everyday items: shirts, bags, hats, clothing, postcards, and Lao-style stickers. The most popular item remains the T-shirt
featuring the three women wearing glasses. Foreign tourists make up most of my clientele and I've developed a simple way to explain the concept - I clip a 1,000 kip note to the products and tell them, "Do you recognize this? It comes from our money." They understand immediately. What began as a childhood memory of a thousand kip note has transformed into a thriving business. I'm grateful that my early struggles inspired such creativity. Sometimes poverty can plant the seeds of innovation.
1). SNAÉ SHOP (Night Pop-up Shop) From 5 - 10:30 pm
Contact Information:
Facebook/ IG: SNAÉ SHOP
Tel. +856 20 5998 3540
Location: between Memory and Salana Hotel, Chao Anou Rd, Vientiane Capital.
2). SNAÉ DESIGN (8 am - 4 pm)
Contact Information:
Facebook: SNAÉ DESIGN
Tel. +856 20 5998 3540
Ban Pho Ngern, Jinaimo - Banhom road, Hatsaifong District, Vientiane Capital.
3). MAISON SAM SAN
Contact Information:
Facebook: Maison Sam San
Tel. +856 20 52566511
Sisavangvong road, Ban Xiengmouan, Luang Prabang
