Who runs the world? WE TALK TO FOUR FEMALE POWER PL AYERS
WINTER is coming THE NEXT BIG TRENDS FOR HAIR
FREE TO ALL CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY CUSTOMERS!
Blended warm and cool brunette tones create a soft yet rich natural reflection.
EXISTING SHADE Regrowth: 6N Mid-lengths and ends: 7B/7GB (colour-treated)
A Topchic: 40 ml Lotion 3% (10 vol.) + 40 ml 5MB B Colorance: 40 ml Lotion + 5 ml 5BG + 15 ml 7BG C Colorance: 40 ml Lotion + 20 ml 5B@BK D Colorance: 40 ml Lotion + 20 ml 5MB
1. Cross section the hair. Apply formula A onto the regrowth. 2. Section the hair. Starting at the nape, apply alternating formula B and D down the mid-lengths to the ends in solid vertical hair sections. 3. In the section above the occipital bone, apply alternating formula B, C and D in solid vertical hair sections to create a natural diffusion. 4. Continue in the same way, working towards the front on both sides. 5. On the crown, repeat the same pattern as on the nape by using horizontal and vertical solid hair sections. 6. Observe the processing time, then shampoo with Dualsenses Color products. 7. Finish the color service with Dualsenses Color Serum. 8. Use StyleSign Ultra Volume Double Boost, Glamour Whip and Naturally Full.
Download the Goldwell Education Plus App to see the technique in 3D!
Âť Make a bold yet blended statement by applying Dualsenses and StyleSign products working hand-in-hand for even better results with Goldwell Color.
different color formulae to solid hair sections.
Âť Use foils if necessary to prevent color staining.
SS COLOUR FORECAST Hint: there’s a lot of metallic coming!
Wow – we’ve had such a busy year!
As always, don’t hesitate to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org with your suggestions. After all, this is your Capital magazine.
We’ve got an announcement to make!
TOOLS OF THE TR ADE
How gorgeous is our cover model's hair colour? We couldn't resist this beautiful blue curly bob. You can see the full Bohemian collection from the Francesco Group on page 46! Hair: Francesco Group Art Team Makeup: Kamanza Amihyia Photography: Richard Miles Styling: Jared Green
ON THE COVER
We talk to BeautyPro’s Anthony Veloso
GET THE LOOK
Two looks, including one for the men
A WEEK IN MY SHOES
Meet Alan Beak, a Capital customer!
Check out the new #Hair
THE LION'S COLLEC TIVE
3 BARBERS; 3 APPROACHES
TO PURCHASE OR FIND INFORMATION ON OUR LATEST PRODUCTS VISIT WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK
CHARCOAL – IS IT THE BEAUT Y MUST-HAVE?
We’ll see you in 2018!
We bring you the latest and greatest products
A spring forecast from the experts
C A PI TA L CON T E N T S
But it’s time to reflect a little. On page 26 we talk to four women who have carved out a variety of careers in the hair industry and discuss the challenges they’ve faced and their hopes for the future. We’re also making a bit of a fuss about our barbers – we hope you’ve noticed our special edition double cover! From men’s get the looks to a spotlight on three top barbers we’ve got a ton of inspiration for you. Of course, we’re keeping you up to date on the latest colour and nail trends, and we’ve also added some words of advice from charity Lion’s Collective, on how barbers might be the people who can spot the early signs of suicidal thoughts where their clients are concerned.
KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA
We speak to three different barbers about their style
Could you spot the signs?
THE COLLEC TIONS
See more of the amazing collection that our gorgeous cover shot is taken from!
MEET THE MANICURE COMPANY The brand taking on the big boys in the nail industry
WHO RUNS THE WORLD?
Four women leading the hair industry to its next chapter
Publisher: Charisse Kenion Ltd | email@example.com | charissekenion.com Designer: Sophie Middleton | sophiemiddleton.co.uk
NOTE: The views expressed in Capital Hair and Beauty magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Charisse Kenion Ltd does not accept any responsibility for the loss or damage of material submitted for publication. Reproduction of any material without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
DISCOVER KOLESTON PERFECT
HAIRDRESSERSâ€™ FAVOURITE COOL SHADES RICH, SENSUAL COLOUR From the first-ever colour cream in 1950 to our most advanced colour technology, Koleston Perfect sets the standard for expertise and creativity in hair colour. As winner of the Salon Star Award on 5 consecutive occasions, Koleston Perfect is the brand of choice for 100,000 salons worldwide. It is trusted every day for its predictable rich, sensual colour results, and loved for its comprehensive portfolio of shades that offers unlimited scope for colourists to direct the look of modern beauty for every client. KOLESTON PERFECT IS THE COLOUR.
FOR PASTEL TONING:
Here are our Koleston Perfect creative shades that our hairdressers and top artists say they could not live without.
Rich and sensual colours with a wide selection of exciting shades
Up to 100% grey/white hair coverage, up to 5 levels of lift
10/16 (30 g) + 0/66 (5 g)
COOL PEARL BLUE
10/8 (30 g) + 0/88 (2 g)
10/1 (30 g) + 0/11 (1 g) + 0/88 (1 g)
MINKY PINK PASTEL 10/96 (30 g) + 0/65 (5 g)
04 Reliable colour results and superb colour balance 05
Simple 1:1 mixing ratio
06 All colour service application techniques 07
Climazon friendly (shorter development time with heat)
SILVER GREY ASH
10/8 (30 g) + 0/81 (2 g)
MINKY PINK FAWN
8/96 (30 g) + 0/65 (2 g)
SILVER BLUE ASH
10/8 (30 g) + 0/81 (1 g) + 0/88 (0.5 g)
10/0 (20 g) + 55/65 (10 g) + 0/28 (2 g)
PASTEL AQUAMARINE 10/0 (30 g) + 0/88 (1 g) + 0/28 (2 g) PASTEL OPAL V
10/96 (30 g) + 0/65 (1 g) + 0/66 (1 g)
SMOKEY GREY ASH
9/8 (30 g) + 0/81 (2 g)
10/0 (30 g) + 0/28 (2 g)
THE SHADES ARE ALWAYS MIXED 1:2 WITH WELLOXON PERFECT PASTEL. THAT MEANS 1 PART KOLESTON PERFECT + 2 PARTS WELLOXON PERFECT PASTEL.
FIND ALL YOUR KOLESTON PERFECT SHADES AT YOUR CAPITAL STORE OR SHOP ONLINE WITH CAPITAL /6
YOUR GUIDE TO WHAT'S HAPPENING IN-STORE AND WHAT'S NEX T...
TA DA! OUR NEW WEBSITE IS HERE! We’ve been hard at work building a brand new website and now it’s here! Customers really liked our old website but everyone needs a makeover at some point, and we wanted to make sure our new website wasn’t just a case of style over substance. Here are just a few of the reasons you should add capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk /capitalhairandbeauty.ie to your bookmarks.
No waiting ages for pages to load; our new site is faster, slicker and more efficient than ever before. This alone will make those last minute online shopping trips so much easier! What’s more, our search facility has been updated, so you now get results as-you-type.
We know how important your online shopping safety is, so we’ve made sure that our new site protects you at all stages of the shopping journey.
NO NEED TO RE-REGISTER If you’re an existing online Capital customer your usual login details will work.
KEEP A RECORD
You can now view and print invoices for goods bought in-store as well as online, therefore keeping track of every penny spent.
SAME GREAT QUALITY ON ANY DEVICE
C A PI TA L NE WS
Now you can get the fully functioning site on your mobile and tablet too.
You can save your payment details securely, making future checkouts a breeze. You can also quickly and easily replace an order you made previously.
MORE WAYS TO PAY
You can now use your PayPal account at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk / capitalhairandbeauty.ie
REAP THE BENEFITS
You now get the same offers/discounts as our in-store customers get! Visit us today at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk /capitalhairandbeauty.ie
Street Style Looks As easy as 1, 2, 3 – SMART 3 Steps to achieve any look in three simple steps. – SMART Pixel Technology instantly brings hair back to virgin-like hair quality to ensure colour shine. – SMART Looks instantly delivering Street Style inspirations digitally with the NFC Technology.
TOOLS of the TRADE CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUT Y GOES ALL OUT TO BRING YOU THE L ATEST, AND GREATEST PRODUC TS TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. NO YELLOW!
350ML £7.95 / €7.95 | 1000ML £12.95 / €14.95
STORE ENGL AND
C A PI TA L E SSE N T I A L S
Going grey has never been more fashionable, but the challenge comes with keeping that grey super cool and fresh. Over time, grey hair can take on a yellowish tinge –especially for clients who smoke –but No Yellow gets rid of that tinge within minutes. No Yellow Shampoo neutralises yellow reflections that derive from pigment residue after bleaching and lightening, as well as the oxidising action of the natural elements. Made with a violet pigment, No Yellow turns down the grey, but it’s not only naturally grey clients that will benefit; use this shampoo for your bleached, blonde and streaked clients to keep their colour fresh and clean.
AINTREE (M&S) 01515 251515 ALDERSHOT 01252 325609 ASHFORD 01233 501400 BOURNEMOUTH 01202 763442 BRIERLEY HILL 01384 483338 BRIGHTON 01273 900111 BRISTOL 0117 951 2222 CARLISLE 01228 544134 CHESTER (M&S) 01244 390844 CRAWLEY 01293 550052 CROYDON 020 8681 3815 DAGENHAM 020 8593 1883 DERBY 01332 342228 EASTBOURNE 01323 508040 GILLINGHAM 01634 365005 HARROW 020 8863 7371 HAYES 0208 573 3941 HODDESDON 01992 440866 HOVE (LOCAL) 01273 327215 IPSWICH 01473 253313 KINGSTON 0208 549 9058 LEE 020 8318 9421 LEEDS (M&S) 01132 445581 LINCOLN 01522 512250 MANSFIELD 01623 654736 MANCHESTER (M&S) 01618 191660 NORWICH 01603 630747 NOTTINGHAM 01159 789115 NEWCASTLE (M&S) 01914 144773 OXFORD 01865 775223 PETERBOROUGH 01733 561193 PORTSMOUTH 023 9266 0400 PRESTON (M&S) 01772 703946 SOUTHAMPTON 023 8055 3380 STOCKPORT (M&S) 01614 775479 TUNBRIDGE WELLS 01892 526333 WALSALL 01922 616111 WARRINGTON (M&S) 01925 572234 WOLVERHAMPTON 01902 351515 WORTHING (LOCAL) 01903 507304
ABERDEEN 01224 620430 EAST KILBRIDE 01355 232224 EDINBURGH 0131 453 4300 EDINBURGH EAST (M&S) 0131 669 9987 GLASGOW 0141 552 4505 GLASGOW HILLINGTON 0141 883 8876
NORTHERN IREL AND
REP. OF IREL AND
DERRY 02871 371222
LIMERICK 061 294580 DUBLIN NANGOR RD 01 4089022 DUBLIN CROKE PARK 01 8369761
FOR OPENING HOURS & STORE LOCATIONS VISIT OUR WEBSITE TODAY!
@CAPITALHAIR | CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK/BLOG
WWW.CAPITALHAIR ANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK /9
C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON
GET the LOOK
THIS ISSUE WE’VE SPLIT THE LOOKS BET WEEN THE GUYS AND THE GIRLS; FIRST, WE’VE GOT A GREAT, TEXTURED ST YLE FROM ROSS CHARLES, FOLLOWED BY A BEAUTIFUL BR AIDED ST YLE FROM K AM HAIR AND BODY SPA.
HERE ROSS CHARLES BREAKS DOWN ONE OF THE LOOKS FROM HIS PSYCHEDELIC SOLDIERS COLLEC TION.
Comare 400 (Large Cutting / Dressing Out Comb) £1.45/€1.50
Schwarzkopf Silhouette Super Hold Hairspray 750ml £4.80/€6.00
“The cut is quite important for this look and I used a few different tools and techniques to achieve it.
“While the hair was still wet, I used a sea salt spray and really saturated the hair, before combing it through to ensure even distribution.
Wahl Super Taper Clipper £46.99/€53.85
C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON
“To start, I created a slight fade from the bottom of the hairline using clippers – the hair is fairly short here, which adds to the drama of the length on top. I then lined up the hair using a Donald Scott DS/X4 razor before using a chopstick razor on the top of the hair – this look requires some length to be able to achieve that messy finish.
“Salt spray on damp hair is great for creating a ‘wet look’ effect, but if you prefer a slightly drier finish, simply allow the hair to dry slightly before applying the salt spray. Once you’ve combed it through, use your hands to press the hair into place. When you’re satisfied with the shape, use a diffuser dryer to mould the hair into place; try to keep the diffuser in one place and try not move it around too much, as it can cause frizz. It’s important to be as gentle as possible. If you want to add even more hold, you could mist over some hairspray for an extra layer of security.” <
< Hair Tools Diffuser Black £2.99/€3.75
Bed Head Rockaholic Thunder Struck Texturising Salt Spray 270ml £5.99/€5.99 /11
GET the LOOK K AREN THOMSON OF K AM HAIR AND BODY SPA BREAKS DOWN THE STEPS TO CREATING THIS GORGEOUS, SOFT BR AID. Sutra Ionic Smoothing Brush £39.95/€49.95 <
C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON
L'Oreal Professionnel Tecni. ART Full Volume Extra 250ml £7.85/€9.84
Scunci Polyband Hair Elastics Pk75 – Clear £1.95/€2.45
“Before creating this look, it’s important to make sure you’ve prepped the hair in order to avoid frizz and also to ensure that you will end up with lasting volume, body and shine. I used a volumising Mousse on damp hair and blowdried. Once the hair was dry, I used straightening irons to again, get rid of frizz, and smooth the hair.
“This look is all about the French braid, so firstly start by creating a French braid from the forehead to half way along the head, securing into place with hair pins. Next, create another French braid on the left side of the head and then again on the right; again going halfway along the head, and securing both with hair pins. “Finally, create another French braid using the remainder of the hair from the nape of the neck up to the head, and create a ponytail with the loose hair. Be light-handed with the French braids or pull them out a bit at the ends to make them look softer. “Finish with Matrix Amplify Flexible Hold Hairspray to hold the hair in place and keep it static-free.” < Matrix Total Results High Amplify Hairspray 400ml £5.85* *available in selected stores and online
< Hair Tools Pins & Grips Session Kit £7.30/€9.15
KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA
C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON
A WEEK in
C A PI TA L C A RE E R S
Alan and Manchester City player Sergio Aguero
CAPITAL CUSTOMER AL AN BEAK, ALONGSIDE HIS BROTHER REECE, HAS BEEN CUT TING HAIR AND TEACHING HIS CR AFT FOR 11 YEARS. WITH T WO BUSY SALONS, INTERNATIONAL PL ATFORM WORK AND AN A-LIST CLIENT BASE, HERE’S A GLIMPSE INTO AL AN'S WEEK.
ABOUT AL AN LOCATION: Ruger Barbers, Manchester and Lytham INSTAGRAM: @Alan_Beak YEARS IN THE BUSINESS: 20+ years
We’re out of the salon as Reece and I are in Herne Bay visiting Wahl headquarters. We’re here to go over our contract as new Ambassadors, Artistic Team Members and Educators of ‘The Mens Method’, and have been shown around by Global Director Simon Shaw. We don’t mind the 10 hour-long journey as it’s been completely worth it. It also gave us time to catch up on emails and social media!
First day back in the salon after a weekend and it’s always a busy one. We’re back to back from 9am until 6pm. It’s always good to get back to our clients; after all, they’re our bread and butter. Throughout the salon we have 12 staff members, all of which need some love and attention after the weekend. As soon as the day is under way we all work together to get on with the job list: this generally consists of making orders of our product range and/or any necessities for the shops, posting orders made over the weekend from online purchases, organising all our travel and education days and all the boring back of house things. Later this afternoon our brand new set of scissors, kindly provided by Bettertons arrives, so we make a quick phone call to Pete Newman to say thank you.
Every Wednesday I’m in the Lytham shop; about an hour away from the Manchester shop. I start the day with a student, then do some in-house training, generally implementing standards and making it look like I'm a boss, but really our manager there, Carlie, just bosses me around. Today I also met with our product supplier with new samples of our Ruger product packaging, ready for shooting to upload to our website. The afternoon is all about clients until 5pm, before I head back to Manchester to see a high-profile client of mine, who happens to be one of the best footballers in the world. He gets special treatment – a haircut in the comfort of his own (enormous) home.
ALL IMAGERY SUPPLIED
Alan and Reece celebrating their new ambassador roles with Wahl's Simon Shaw
Between clients today there was a lot of time behind the camera taking shots of the new product range. Once we were happy we then had to work through some images we recently shot with photographer Liam Oakes, and decide which images we wanted for our latest collection, Iridescence. As we travel quite a bit, either doing educational classes, or performing onstage, it takes a lot of effort to get there; things like organising travel and compiling an itinerary, making sure trains, planes, parking and accommodation have been arranged, right down to booking models for the sessions. This afternoon I will be organising a trip to Amsterdam to perform for the Great British Barber Bash.
As our clients get ready for the weekend, Fridays are without doubt our busiest day, so it’s all hands on deck; the team arrive in good time, the coffee machine goes on and our bookings flood in throughout the day. The brand was born three years ago and upon opening we said, first and foremost, our haircuts and standards have to be the highest we can do. Second of all, we wanted to focus on the overall experience, so we trained to become baristas so that we could serve incredible coffee, in a welcoming environment – somewhere our customers can't wait to come back to.
Having natural talent helps but it won't take you as far as ambition. Everybody wants to be good in this industry but it takes so much more to be great. You have to be obsessed with what you do, make sacrifices and have passion and drive. As barbering evolves, it’s important to constantly keep up with changing trends, so being active on social media will help you immensely.
C A PI TA L C A RE E R S
It’s almost show time, so there’s one last check over all the details for tomorrow’s early flight to Amsterdam. Our weeks are long and predominantly six or seven days but it’s become more than a job to us: it’s a lifestyle.
At 6am it’s straight to the airport, where we have a short pep talk over breakfast. Upon arrival we float around and try to say hello to all the attendees, and catch up with the other performers. During the show I’ll be hosting with the founder, Garry Spencer, until it’s our time to shine and showcase our own work. Once that’s over I then go on to judge a competition, with 22 talented barbers going head to head to be crowned the new winner of the Barber Bash Barber Battle! /15
CHRIS FOSTER Chris Foster is an award-winning session stylist who is also Creative Director at The Refinery and the Harrods Barbershop.
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO BECOME A BARBER? I decided to do my work experience in a barbershop, back when I was 15. I found the industry so inspiring that I worked for free during the first few months. That was over 24 years ago now.
3 barbers, 3 WAYS ONE THING ABOUT THE WORLD OF HAIR, IS THAT IT NEVER STOPS EVOLVING. THANKS TO INFLUENCES SUCH AS FASHION, STREET PHOTOGRAPHY, REALITY TV, TECHNOLOGY AND OF COURSE, OUR SELFIE CULTURE, THERE ARE FAR LESS BOUNDARIES AS TO WHAT WORKS, OR WHAT IS DEEMED AS ‘ON-TREND.’ AS WELL AS HAIRDRESSING, THE WORLD OF BARBERING IS ALSO BEING INFLUENCED; BUT IT’S ALSO BECOME A BIT OF AN INFLUENCER ITSELF. AS MORE AND MORE FEMALE CLIENTS OPT FOR CUTS THAT COME COURTESY OF CLIPPERS, AND MORE MEN ARE GROWING THEIR HAIR LONGER, WE THOUGHT IT MADE SENSE TO SPEAK TO THREE VERY DIFFERENT, VERY ESTABLISHED BARBERS, TO HEAR THEIR TAKE ON WHERE BARBERING IS HEADED.
DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? HOW DOES IT AFFECT THE WORK YOU CREATE, IF AT ALL? I am very much focused on shape and structure and the fluidity of bespoke shapes. This reflects in my work, in the way that I apply a bespoke tailoring aspect to men's hair. WHICH MEN'S STYLE ARE YOU LOVING RIGHT NOW? Ed Sheeran’s mid-length textured haircut is refreshing at the moment. (You can find a tutorial of Chris cutting this look for his Foss Academy online school at thefossacademy.com). WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR MEN'S HAIRSTYLES? I look to Pinterest a lot; it’s full of inspiration, as well as music videos for current trends. I’m also inspired by the natural environment and graphic novels – which might be apparent if you’ve seen my collections! WHAT'S THE ONE PRODUCT THAT YOU AND YOUR MALE CLIENTS COULDN'T LIVE WITHOUT? Most of my clients like a matte finish to their hair, so we couldn’t live without a matte clay! It’s a great all-rounder product that creates a great style to suit almost any man. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANY YOUNG BARBER? Be trained by the best, be around the best and work with the best. Then you too, will be the best! Put yourself out there and be willing to learn. The Fellowship is a great place to start as it allows you to plug into the movers and shakers within the industry – why wouldn’t you want to put yourself amongst that?
WHERE TO FIND CHRIS INSTAGRAM @hairbychrisfoster/@fossacademy TWITTER @hairchrisfoster/@thefossacademy
C A PI TA L ME N
IS THERE ANYTHING YOU WOULD CHANGE ABOUT THE BARBER INDUSTRY? If I could, I would choose to take away the alpha male aspect of barbering. Barbering is heavily dominated by men and by nature, men are very proud and territorial. This can filter down to the work that we do. It would be great to see more female barbers in our industry.
PRECISION FADE BLADE
ADJUSTABLE THIN PROFILE BLADE FOR PRECISION FADES, WITH A FLAT BOTTOM THAT ALLOWS FOR CLOSER CUTTING.
POWERFUL CORDLESS MOTOR
POWERFUL MOTOR THAT GENERATES A HIGHER BLADE SPEED WITH INCREASED TORQUE FOR MORE CUTTING POWER.
ALUMINIUM METAL BOTTOM HOUSING PROVIDES A STURDY, ROBUST GRIP WITH A WEIGHTED FEEL FOR PRECISION AND CONTROL.
Wa h l P ro f e s s i o n a l U K
@ w a h l p ro u k
@ w a h l p ro u k /17
TOM CHAPMAN Director of his eponymously named salon in Torquay, Tom is also the founder of The Lions Barber Collective, a charity aimed at raising awareness about male suicide – read more about this on page 44.
DO YOU THINK THERE ARE ANY DIFFERENCES IN HOW MEN AND WOMEN APPROACH MEN'S HAIRDRESSING? I'm not sure there's a difference in how men and women approach men's hairdressing, but I do think there’s a huge difference in how hairdressers and barbers approach men's hairdressing. As a hairdresser turned barber I have been thrust into the world of barbering over the past four years or so, and although I have been accepted with open arms – there’s a huge difference. While there’s a traditional precision to barbering, often done for aesthetic reasons, hairdressing seems to be approached with more structure and sectioning patterns.
HOW DO YOU SEE THE INDUSTRY EVOLVING OVER THE NEXT FIVE YEARS? I think the hair industry is always evolving; hairdressers are now taking note of barbers and using more and more barbering techniques in their collections, competitions and stage work. It's also having an influence on women's hair, with the use of clippers and fading on the rise. I think barbers are finding new, more varied uses for tools such as scissors and hairdryers, and this is influencing men in their decisions to wear their hair longer. DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? My own personal style is always evolving. I was influenced by punk rock as a kid and I’ve always been influenced by Americana. At the moment, my influences probably come from Country music, particularly prior to 1960, as well as Southern rock. Although saying that, my wardrobe and hair changes quite a lot; I’ve got everything in there, from 1920s-style Oxford bags to cut-off denim. I'm now growing my hair out from variations of a pompadour to try and get my hair long again. WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR MEN'S HAIRSTYLES? I find inspiration from all around. I’m lucky to have travelled a lot, and have worked alongside some of the best in the industry, so I get a lot of inspiration from them. One guy I will always admire – who has some of the best clipper techniques in the world – is my now good friend Lawrence Fo: his fades never fail to inspire me. I also look to music, film and good television; I think we are in an era where there are no rules and barbers can do whatever they like. WHAT'S THE ONE PRODUCT THAT YOU AND YOUR MALE CLIENTS CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? At the moment, I personally couldn't live without the new Talc from The
C A PI TA L ME N
WHY DID YOU BECOME A BARBER? Although I started off in hairdressing about 16 years ago, I didn’t plan on being a barber. I did my A-levels, but TOM CHAPMAN didn't want to go on to university, and I’d always done my own hair, as well as my friends’, so when my mum suggested going into hairdressing it made perfect sense. I discovered a love for men's hair when I was into punk rock and other alternative music; at that time, a lot of the hairstyles required clipper-work – although Toni & Guy didn’t allow clippers at the time! I bought a pair of Wahl super tapers and taught myself in my kitchen, on the heads of some very patient friends.
Bluebeards Revenge; it smells amazing and helps keep my work area on the skin clean and smooth, as well as removing hair from the client. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANY YOUNG BARBER? I do believe that hard work is incredibly important – a good work ethic will take you far, and I have my parents to thank for that. Luck and being in the right place at the right time is a big factor, but luck is opportunity plus preparation. So, if you’re prepared for an opportunity that arises and you take it, you will go far, so try to be prepared and never stop learning. The last thing I would add is that you need to exceed expectations, rather than simply satisfy them.
WHERE TO FIND TOM INSTAGRAM @tomchapman_tcxhd TWITTER @HeresTommy YOUTUBE Tom Chapman
WHERE TO FIND LEANNE INSTAGRAM @westrowhair TWITTER @WestrowHair/@Westrowacademy haircutting the timescale for learning is a lot longer, as we mainly use scissors, while barbers mostly use clippers and guards. I believe that hairdressing is more of a discipline than barbering, and it would be great if there was more focus on this as an industry. DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? Markus Lupfer t-shirts, skinny jeans and flat, studded Christian Louboutins! I have two sleeves of tattoos, but I also love the finer things in life too, so I always say, ‘don’t judge a book by its cover’. When it comes to hair, my style of work is clean with attention to detail and a twist to inspire.
Leanne is the Education Director at Westrow and specialises in men’s hairdressing and barbering. WHAT ARE THE KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN WORKING WITH MALE AND FEMALE CLIENTS? The skull shape tends to be larger on a man and the mastoid LEANNE BROWN bone is usually more prominent. For men, hair texture around the hairline can also change, due to facial hair. In barbering the finish is everything and you need to have a keen eye for detail, so understanding the key differences between male and female clients is so important. DO YOU THINK THERE ARE ANY DIFFERENCES IN HOW MEN AND WOMEN APPROACH MEN'S HAIRDRESSING? I think an approach to hairdressing is always down to the individual and the ways in which they have trained – not down to whether they are male or female. Those who are successful in this field have incredible attention to detail and a real passion to go the extra mile. With barbering, everything is on show and there is nowhere to hide – confidence in your skill is paramount if you want to succeed in this arena. It’s all about technique, so learning the true fundamentals of men’s hairdressing is essential to forging a long-lasting career in barbering.
WHAT DID IT MEAN FOR YOU TO WIN THE MEN’S IMAGE AWARD AT THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY IN 2009? It was amazing. The media attention was great, and we did a men’s shoot for Vogue as part of the prize – which definitely raised the profile of men’s hairdressing within Westrow. As a result we had lots of male clients booked in, asking for the same style as our model! The win really pushed me forward in my career and proved that as a brand, we have a clear understanding of trends and what men are looking for. HAVE YOU COME UP AGAINST ANY NEGATIVITY/PREJUDICE DUE TO YOUR SEX IN THE INDUSTRY? As a female hairdresser in a very maledominated environment, I have found it to be a very gender-equal profession. There’s a lot of support and encouragement from both sexes, and we continue to inspire each other to be the best.
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WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR MEN'S HAIRSTYLES? As barbering is becoming more and more popular, the amount of inspiration surrounding me has increased tenfold. We’ve moved away from the traditional, tailored barbering and are becoming more creative. Checking out the AW and SS collections is always something that I look forward to, and Instagram always provides limitless inspiration from around the world. You never know; the next big trend might emerge from a barber in Russia or Costa Rica! There are also some fantastic trade magazines that are exclusively for men’s hairdressing and barbering. WHAT'S THE ONE PRODUCT THAT YOU AND YOUR MALE CLIENTS CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT? One of my must-haves is the Kérastase Homme Capital Force, a shampoo for thinning hair. My clients love the results. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANY YOUNG BARBER? Keep it real, be adaptable and move forward. And remember, to remain creative you and your techniques must constantly evolve.
IS THERE ANYTHING YOU WOULD CHANGE ABOUT THE BARBER INDUSTRY? At the moment, there’s quite a difference between being a barber and a men’s hairdresser. Barbers tend to get all the glory, and men’s hairdressers are often overlooked. There is skill involved in both, but for /19
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The rights to use this visual are acquired until January 30, 2019. Beyond that date the use of this visual shall be considered as a breach and you will have to pay any compensation that would be sought by the model or photographer.
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THE MANICURE COMPANY THE NAIL INDUSTRY IS FULL OF MA JOR PL AYERS THAT WE HAVE ALL COME TO LOVE, ADMIRE AND RESPEC T, BUT THERE’S A NEW KID ON THE BLOCK THAT’S DEFINITELY GAINING MORE MOMENTUM. SINCE 2016, THE MANICURE COMPANY HAS SET OUT TO GIVE NAIL TECHS A NEW, INNOVATIVE OPTION. HERE WE TALK WITH CREATIVE DIREC TOR, EOIN COT TER, ABOUT WHAT’S NEX T FOR THE BR AND. /22
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SO, THREE MEN AND SOME NAIL POLISH - WHERE DOES THIS STORY BEGIN, AND WHO DID IT START WITH? We’ve all come from EOIN COTTER a professional nail business background, having worked in different and relevant roles, from manufacturing to sales and marketing. From time to time we would cross paths and we soon discovered that each of us had similar ideas about creating a brand.
MEET THE MEN David Dodd | Sales Director Eoin Cotter | Creative Director Fergus O’Sullivan | Logistics NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES 18 FACEBOOK themanicurecompany INSTAGRAM @the_manicure_company SNAPCHAT manicureco
Over many conversations discussing our ideas we took the plunge and decided to create The Manicure Company. I’ve worked specifically in the manufacturing and design of professional nail products since 2011. It’s my passion and I adore creating new collections and products.
seamless. Looking ahead to the next five years, we would love to see strong growth in the Irish and UK market and possibly expansion into other European countries. same, however, I now have more control and freedom to create the products that I feel are right for the brand. It’s a great feeling having that creative control. WHAT'S THE PLAN FOR THE BRAND OVER THE NEXT FIVE YEARS? A major goal for us during the first two years has been about creating a network of distribution in Ireland and in the UK. We are in the process of achieving this goal now with our new exclusive partnership with Capital in the UK, so at this point in time we are focused on ensuring our delivery within these two markets is
WHAT’S BEEN YOUR BIGGEST BRAND HIGHLIGHT SO FAR? Honestly, it’s achieving this exclusive deal with Capital in the UK. Capital has always been very supportive of The Manicure Company and in what we are creating and offering. Being available in all Capital stores in the UK is just amazing. We’re thrilled, excited, nervous — every emotion possible really. AND WHAT’S BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE SO FAR? The rate of our growth over the past two years and handling the demands this puts on production! However, it’s a challenge we are only too happy to engage with. We’re blown away by the support and reaction to the range; it’s fantastic.
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WHAT’S BEEN THE MAIN DIFFERENCE IN MOVING FROM WORKING FOR A BRAND, TO BEING AT THE STEERING WHEEL OF YOUR OWN BRAND? For me specifically, it’s been very much the
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FOR OUR FINAL ISSUE OF 2017, WE WANTED TO FOCUS ON THE VARIOUS ROLES THAT WOMEN PL AY WITHIN THE HAIR INDUS TRY. FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS THERE HA S BEEN MUCH DISCUSSION OVER NOT ONLY THE CONCEPT OF WOMEN ‘HAVING IT ALL’, BUT ALSO, WITHIN THE HAIR INDUSTRY, WHETHER THEY ARE EITHER UNWILLING, OR UNINTERESTED IN WINNING AWARDS. HERE CHARISSE KENION DISCUSSES THESE ISSUES AND MORE WITH FOUR MA JOR PL AYERS: SOPHIA HILTON OF NOT ANOTHER SALON, SHEIL A JACKSON, WELL A PARTNERSHIP MANAGER, JANET MAITL AND OF SCHWARZKOPF AND JOANNA HANSFORD OF JO HANSFORD. /26
Sophia Hilton, award-winner and owner of Not Another Salon, probably the most Instagramable salon in the UK. BACK IN 2015, YOU WERE ART MANAGER AT BROOKS AND BROOKS; HOW DID YOU MAKE THE LEAP TO OPENING YOUR OWN SALON AT A SOPHIA HILTON YOUNG AGE? SH: To open a big salon in central London, it's a really young age, but for outside the UK’s major cities, it isn't. I know lots of people that got going in their early 20's or even before. I opened Not Another Salon when I was 27 and it did feel quite soon for London – especially as I had to raise a quarter of a million somehow, just to get going. I don't think you ever feel good enough or ready.
TELL ME ABOUT THE CHALLENGES OF YOUR ROLE. SH: Now I don't just have the salon; I also run Not Another Academy. I travel all over the world to teach and I'm an ambassador for Innoluxe. So, I guess the salon helped kickstart the other dreams I had. The challenge is trying to fit it all in – I'm also having a baby in five weeks, so work and life are very much integrated for me. WHAT’S THE ONE THING THAT GRINDS YOUR GEARS ABOUT THE HAIR INDUSTRY? SH: Colourists have become famous on Instagram for transformations that take all day, leading to thousands of regular hairdressers across the world having a
HOW IMPORTANT IS EDUCATION WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR SALON? SH: It's one of the most important aspects of being part of our team. If you are not trying to constantly selfimprove you are in the wrong company. WITH LESS SCHOOL LEAVERS CHOOSING A ROLE IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY, HOW CAN THE GOVERNMENT ENCOURAGE THEM TO GET INVOLVED? OR IS IT THE HAIR INDUSTRY’S JOB? SH: I think it's our responsibility. It starts by making the job somewhere where they want to be. No matter how much you moan, you’re not going to change the basic characteristics of millennials, so get over it. Rather than pointing out how they are not
"It’s my job to excite them, inspire them and create an industry they want to work in."
work in. (Sophia recently backed up these words; a concerned boyfriend contacted her, asking her to call his girlfriend in the hopes of encouraging her to stick with the hair industry, after feeling demotivated. Sophia did just that.)
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WHAT WAS THE AIM OF OPENING NOT ANOTHER SALON? SH: It was never part of my plan. I wanted to be an art director, or a travelling educator/ ambassador, which is what I was doing at the time but not on the scale that I wanted. I'd reached a point of feeling like I wasn't moving and needed to be challenged.
confidence crisis, because they all work on comical timings; they cannot possibly compete. Clients are losing faith in our abilities and even worse, hairdressers are losing faith in themselves. What could be a hugely profitable period is actually beginning to damage the industry.
HOW DO YOU THINK HAVING A CHILD WILL AFFECT THE WAY YOU WORK? SH: For most, hairdressing is the perfect industry to have a family in, as it offers flexibility. But for women leading the industry, owning big salons and having international careers, children would have to be put lower down the priority list – for fear of being left behind professionally. I’ve valued the idea of having a family for a long time and I'm very realistic about it. I predict that at least 20 percent of my career would suffer to have a family. My days are only so long and my mind only has the capacity for a certain amount of things, but I'm comfortable with that.
the same as back in 'your day,' take the time to understand what the world is from their perspective. If they’re not what you think young people should be, it’s only the fault of the generation before them. Luckily, I'm in an age group that sits on the border of both generations, and it’s my job as an employer to pick up where the previous generation failed. It’s my job to excite them, inspire them and create an industry they want to /27
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Sheila Jackson first joined Wella over 30 years ago; today she is Wella Partnership Manager. SO, WITH SO MUCH EXPERIENCE, GIVE US A POTTED HISTORY OF HOW YOU GOT TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW. SJ: I first joined Wella SHEILA JACKSON more than 30 years ago, as a Technical Educator in the North West. After spending some time as a Training Manager for a very large franchise group, I ended up back at Wella, as a Key Account Sales Manager, where I was responsible for all non-technical hairdresser services, including events and VIP incentive trips, which took me all around the world, as well as Customer Marketing and business education. Ten years ago, I was appointed Wella Partnership Service Manager, responsible for the Education offer across all brands and the Wella Studio Network. I’m now Director for Education and Events for the UK and Ireland. I have an amazing team of 80 Wella educators, 40 brand experts and a fantastic Studio network. It’s never boring!
‘…winning awards isn’t the only way to shine.’ WHAT, IF ANYTHING, HAS CHANGED WHEN IT COMES TO HOW WOMEN HAVE BEEN TREATED/CHALLENGED? SJ: When I was training to be a hairdresser and working in a salon, I certainly didn’t
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT WOMEN BEING LESS LIKELY TO PUT THEMSELVES FORWARD FOR INDUSTRY AWARDS? SJ: It’s difficult to generalise, but maybe men are more driven when it comes to public recognition than women are? If you look past the awards, there are many hugely powerful and successful women in our industry, who have built incredible businesses, and winning awards isn’t the only way to shine. EDUCATION IS SO IMPORTANT TO THE HAIR INDUSTRY – HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR APPROACH TO IT FRESH AND EVOLVING? SJ: I think the key is to keep talking to our customers and to learn from other industries. I look at people of all ages and levels of experience for inspiration. We can learn from everyone. I like to challenge the norm and I’m never afraid to try something unconventional. feel like there was any discrimination. However, when I left to join a major corporate organisation it did feel more of a challenge at that time: maternity leave was not as generous as it is now, and many of the senior and middle management roles were taken by men. As my career progressed, I often found myself in meeting rooms full of men, with very few females in senior management positions. Throughout my career, I’ve seen changes that are more positive, and in the corporate environment, from my experience, it is more about your capabilities than your gender.
WHAT ARE THE COMMON MISTAKES PEOPLE MAKE WHEN ENTERING THE INDUSTRY? SJ: People thinking it’s glamorous and easy. It can of course be glamorous, but it’s incredibly hard work too. I think the other mistake people make is thinking that it’s all creative, when, in fact, you need a good balance between creativity and business in order to make your salon a success. Hairdressing is hard work and you have to perfect the core skills in order to make it to the top. HOW DID BECOMING A MOTHER AFFECT YOUR CAREER? SJ: I have two children and two step children. Becoming a mother made me super organised and very focused. I had an excellent nanny and the diary was planned very well. I don’t think that being a working mother had any negative effects on the children – quite the opposite – I believe it taught them great ethics. Having children is the best thing I’ve ever done. WHOSE JOB IS IT TO ENCOURAGE MORE SCHOOL LEAVERS INTO THE HAIR INDUSTRY? SJ: It’s everyone’s job! Not just one company or organisation; we all need to be promoting the same messages. Half the battle is convincing the parents that hairdressing is a brilliant career. It’s frustrating that people don’t realise how flexible, rewarding and lucrative hairdressing can be.
HOW DID YOU BECOME INVOLVED WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S SHAPING FUTURES? JM: My love for education and training JANET MAITLAND meant that I was instantly drawn to Shaping Futures. I love giving back to young stylists and education has always been a main focus of mine in my salons. I signed up to the Shaping Futures initiative in 2011 as a volunteer and had the most wonderful experience out in India. The young, disadvantaged students have overcome unfathomable challenges throughout their lives. Their enthusiasm and hunger to learn is inspirational, so from that trip onwards I was extremely invested in the initiative. I was asked to be the UK ambassador in 2012. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES OF YOUR ROLE? JM: Each trip to India brings new challenges and hurdles to overcome. The students' life stories and difficulties they’ve encountered are hard to understand and hear but it’s all part of being a mentor. We’re often working in poor conditions that do not have the same standards we are used to here in the UK, so
we have to think on our feet, be proactive and problem solve. We’ve had the water run out halfway through a session with the model’s hair full of shampoo! You adapt and learn from these challenges. WHY DON’T MORE WOMEN ENTER INDUSTRY AWARDS? JM: I think women tend to be more humble! Many women are pleased to do a great job, contribute to a good business and be able to please their clients and colleagues, whilst maintaining a good life/work balance. I think some men in the industry seem to be seeking fame and recognition, and there’s nothing wrong with that – but I do think more women need to do the same! WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE INDUSTRY? JM: My work in Shaping Futures has opened my eyes to the compassion, humility and dedication of the volunteers. The last group of volunteers dropped everything at a moment’s notice when I asked for their help to go and train 40 young disadvantaged students in India – students they have never met. They’ve given up holidays, family time and earnings to help strangers – name one other industry that could make you so proud!
HOW MUCH OF A PRIORITY IS EDUCATION WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR OWN SALONS? JM: It’s absolutely everything. I worked as a City & Guilds programme developer writing the national standards for hairdressing, and as an external verifier from 1990 to 1997, whilst running my busy salons. During that time, I learnt a great deal, not only about education and moving your team forward, but also about how a large organisation communicates and disseminates information effectively. Because of this, my staff are at the heart of everything I do, so a lot of my time is spent dedicated to them.
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Janet Maitland is a salon owner and UK Ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures, a volunteer initiative based in India
HOW HAS THE INDUSTRY CHANGED THROUGHOUT YOUR CAREER – ESPECIALLY WHERE WOMEN ARE CONCERNED? SJ: When I started in 1972 the only flashy cars were owned by the boyfriends of the staff, whereas now the parking outside my salon resembles a classy car showroom with the cars being owned by the girlfriends! You go girls! In the past when women started a family they were lucky to get their career back on track after their children went to school, but now it’s totally different, with women returning to work and having great career opportunities after starting a family. I’ve noticed women have much more confidence these days. This could be due to having more equal opportunities and career pathways than in the early days.
Joanna Hansford is the daughter of Jo Hansford, AKA, the ‘first lady of colour’, and is also the Managing Director of the business, which includes a successful product line. WHAT WERE YOU DOING BEFORE YOU STARTED AT JH? JH: I didn’t intend to join the business, I really wanted to be a JOANNA HANSFORD beauty journalist. I was still at school when the salon first opened, and I felt that our family life was overtaken by the business, as my father was also involved. It was 24/7 in our house and all we seemed to hear and talk about was hairdressing so it was the last thing I wanted to do! However, after I finished my ‘A’ levels I was going away travelling and working several jobs, so my mother asked if I’d like to work on reception for a couple of months as they desperately needed help. WERE YOU FEARFUL OF OTHERS’ EXPECTATIONS? JH: When I first started working in the business we only had eight staff and our last receptionist had just gone on maternity leave, so they were delighted that I could help out! As I was only doing it as a shortterm solution, I didn’t worry what anyone thought about me – thankfully I enjoyed the role and was good at, it so it didn’t cause any problems. After being away for a year the business was growing and on my return they needed some help again, so I fell back into the role. It really progressed from there. For several years I ran the reception team, then moved into more of a PA role and liaised with the PR team and product company, and eventually took over the challenge of MD after my father sadly passed away. That was the hardest part for me; he was an incredible business man and as well as dealing with the trauma of losing him, I had big shoes to
fill. He had very strong relationships with the staff and I had to earn their trust and assure them that I could lead, take the business forwards and maintain our high standards.
many come from unstable backgrounds, they are definitely not stupid. I hear our colourists talking about formulas for clients and it goes straight over my head!
WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES OF YOUR ROLE? JH: I’m constantly challenged in my role – HR has become a huge part of it, particularly as we now have nearly 60 staff. There have been several difficult situations with staff members over the years and confrontation is not enjoyable, but I always try to remind myself that nothing is personal and I’m always doing everything for the company’s best interests.
HOW DID BECOMING A MOTHER AFFECT YOUR CAREER? JH: I love being a mother and think I am very lucky to have such a good work/life balance, which is not always the case for many working mothers. I’ve always had a very open door policy in the business and been accessible to staff at all times, but when the girls were very young I realised I had to change things – I couldn’t be on the phone for half an hour in regards to work issues when I was trying to get them to bed for 7pm. I still answer emails and calls as soon as I possibly can when I’m out of business hours, but I’ve also realised that family time is precious, and you don’t get that time back!
Over the years we’ve also had staff members leave to start their own businesses, which is worrying at the time, but fortunately never as damaging as we think. It just makes me work harder to ensure what we do is always to the best of our ability. WHAT’S THE ONE THING THAT GRINDS YOUR GEARS ABOUT THE HAIR INDUSTRY? JH: I think every industry has politics and I always find that frustrating! The other thing is the assumption that hairdressers are uneducated and incapable of doing anything else. We have an extremely talented team who work with us, and although
WITH LESS SCHOOL LEAVERS CHOOSING A ROLE IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY, HOW CAN THE GOVERNMENT ENCOURAGE THEM TO GET INVOLVED? JH: I really think the government and schools should get more behind the industry and acknowledge what a rewarding career hairdressing can be. Once you have qualified you can travel, work on photo shoots and do session work, as well as build a loyal client base and earn a good income. There aren’t many careers where you’re told pretty much daily about how fantastic you are – maybe I should have pursued it myself!
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Robert Eaton, Creative Director at Russell Eaton salons in Leeds and Barnsley, breaks down the tones and techniques.
YES, WINTER IS COMING – WELL, IT’S PRET T Y MUCH HERE – BUT WE ARE STILL VALIANTLY LOOKING AHEAD TO SPRING 2018. HERE A SELEC TION OF OUR FAVOURITES WALK US THROUGH THEIR COLOUR PREDIC TIONS FOR THE NEW YEAR.
ALL IMAGERY IS TAKEN FROM ROBERT EATON’S MOLTEN METALLIC COLLECTION
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Yellow is a colour that’s been growing in popularity and it definitely looks set to continue into 2018. It’s a very diverse colour that can be adapted to be either very bold or subtle, and can work with a variety of skin tones. Expect to see carefully placed pops of yellow throughout hairstyles, rather than a solid, all-over look.
There’s a big move away from block colour, with transition colour taking the spotlight. As people are becoming more brave with their hair colour, they also want more options to adapt it as time passes, and transitional colour allows them to do this. Balayage and Baby Lights are the techniques that you will see being used more and more as they allow the colour transformation to become more fluid and versatile.
C R E AT E A S P E C T R U M O F S T Y L E S
From straight and sleek to volume, curls and waves, you can achieve a brilliant array of looks using our collection of Spectrum tools. With this high performance range, the creative possibilities are endless. /33
“Spring colours will remain soft; no more harsh balayage or crazy colours. It will be soft, melted blends, merging into delicate pastels of rose golds and hints of peach – colours to suit all ages. More specific for the mature client will be natural greys with a sultry, fashionable edge via KEVIN KAHAN steel lowlights and products that will make the hair sparkle. We will also see a return to delicate highlighting up to the root – babylights that create a more blended effect than we have seen in the past.” Kevin Kahan Salon, Bangor, Northern Ireland
Sophie Webster and Lora Griffin at Simon Webster Hair, Brighton, break down the global fashion trends, and how the hair world will interpret them.
“Various shades of pink are still popular – the pink hair trend is all over our Instagram feeds! Rather than going for an all-over colour, try soft pink highlights – great for any season of the year. Pink is easy to achieve on already blonde hair and offers a low maintenance, STEPHEN CHAPMAN soft, undone feel to the hair as it grows. L’Oréal Professionnel’s new metallic range should have something to suit everyone’s tastes.” Stephen Chapman, Art Director, Contemporary, Harrogate
“We’re a fashion-forward brand and we always like to keep an eye on what analysts such as WGSN, Future and The Style Council are saying about key influences."
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“Pantone has predicted a playful Neapolitan palette: sky chambray blue (a pale denim), lemon yellow, aqua teal and pink sorbet. These sweet shop combinations of fun, contrasting tones can be worn as all-over colour or panels in sugary-shades or dirtier mixes."
LINTON & MAC
“There is a strong influence of metallics in fashion, particularly silver, as the industry looks to the futurism that we saw back in the 1960s. When it comes to hair, we will be embracing silvers and cool metallics.”
“Metallics are going to be huge news next year. The key to emulating the natural sheen of metal is adding dimension and using the right toners. Clients need to remember that this is one of the most difficult hues to create, so, encourage them to skip the DIY approach and tell them that they must consult a colourist who really CLAIRE MORLEY knows what they're doing!" Claire Morley, Creative Director, Contemporary Salon Group
LINTON & MAC
“I think 2018 will see us revisiting ‘unicorn hair’, with millenials opting for the most delicate of pinks. For Afro hair, weaves look super-modern in cool blonde with dark roots. “Overall, the root stretch is set to become CERI CUSHEN the latest trend, overtaking the everpopular ombré. Hair will have a sunkissed, grown-out feel, with caramels and honey blondes replacing the icy platinum that's been so popular in 2017.” Ceri Cushen, Technical Director, Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston-upon-Thames
“The ethics of cultural appropriation has been a hot topic this year and 2018 sees a move towards combining, rather than copying, iconic styles. Think Buffalo style of the 1980s and the celebration of tribal, aboriginal and Japanese elements with a street edge. SWH is predicting a continued rise in the popularity of cool, earthy tones like charcoals and smoky browns that really accentuate this kind of styling.”
“Beautiful hair is all about simplicity and 2018 is about abandoning over-consumerism and stripping things back. Shape and texture are key to this trend, with colours remaining more neutral to let the cut speak for itself. It’s about balance and beauty rather than eye-catching colour."
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An image taken from OPI's campaign for its new Iceland collection
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A SNEAK PEEK
JUDGING FROM OUR EXPERTS’ OPINIONS, THERE ARE NO RULES WHEN IT COMES TO NAILS AS WE ENTER 2018! JULIE-ANNE LARIVIÈRE, SALON SYSTEM NAIL EXPERT BREAKS DOWN HER FAVOURITE LOOKS FOR 2018 “For Spring/Summer 2018, block colours will be huge. A blend of pastels and brights, such as orange, blue, teal and yellow. Manicurists can incorporate nail art in a more graphic way with blocks and thick swipes of colour. It’s less about dainty accents and more about strong structure and powerful lines. Using tape is a great way for beginners to achieve these graphic lines. Coloured cuticle halfmoons on a muted tone or white is a great, easy way to do this. “One stroke is also a great way of incorporating colour into a design with a more abstract design. Ombré is my go-to technique and I don’t think it goes out /36
of fashion as it’s so adaptable in terms of colours. A lovely pastel ombré with flowers overlaid would be a great take on Autumn’s favourite trend. Chrome will be taking a back seat for spring but I imagine it will come back in the summer. I also imagine we’ll
be drifting away from coffin-shaped nails and opting for more of a soft and rounded almond shape.” GELLUX NAIL POLISH IS AVAILABLE AT ALL CAPITAL STORES; PRICES FROM £11.95/€14.95
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GEORGIA MCKELVIE, NAIL TECHNICIAN AT POUTS & PINUPS, IS ALL ABOUT GEOMETRY “In our salon we love geometric nail designs – they’re so popular. There is such a variety of different geometric patterns and prints that can be designed on the nails, such as a kaleidoscope nail design or a design using chevrons. For these designs a variety of colours and glitter can be used and the outcome is always fun and chic. Chrome is still popular at the moment, and it’s great for everyday life – different but not too ‘out there’. Whether the client opts for a gunmetal shade or rose gold, this look is very cool and the more polished and mirrored, the better!”
WHAT’S COOL RIGHT NOW? Although we love to look ahead, we had to share OPI’s latest collection with you! The Iceland Collection is a dreamy array of colours inspired by the country’s varied landscapes; from volcanoes and geysers to hot springs and glaciers. As such, you can expect icy cool blues, shimmering pinks and earthy neutrals. FROM £5.00/€6.00
IMAGE COURTESY OF GELLUX/JULIE-ANNE LARIVIERE
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VIVIENNE CURRAN, SENIOR THERAPIST AT KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA LOVES A GRAPHIC NAIL! “Marbled nails are one of my favourite gel designs at the moment and although they are a bit trickier to do, the outcome is stunning. Instead of using one block colour, this design allows you to select a number of colours for more creative, quirky nails. Graphic nails are another trend I love at the moment. Graphic nails are all about designs, drawings, flags and other interesting, crazy ideas on the nails. It’s a fun trend and a great option for those who like to have something a bit quirkier on the nails.”
JANE CURRIE, BRAND MANAGER FOR SINFUL NAILS SAYS THAT NAILS ARE GOING RETRO “While chrome and metallic are always big for Christmas, we’ll also be seeing some serious shine for spring. Just as the hair world is switching on to metallic tones, so are nails, but we’ll also be seeing more subtle colours too; expect to see a 1970s influence of vintage burnt orange, alongside soft heather shades.
IMAGE COURTESY OF GELLUX/JULIE-ANNE LARIVIERE
“Along with these exciting new shades, we’re expecting to see nail shapes moving away from the stiletto and coffin to a more manageable shorter, rounded oval.”
SINFUL NAIL POLISH AND SINFUL PROSHINE ARE AVAILABLE AT ALL CAPITAL STORES; PRICES FROM £2.85 +VAT /€3.49
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C A PI TA L BE AU T Y
is it really the latest beauty must-have?
Firstly, Anthony says it’s important for consumers to continue to do their research and ensure that any mask they buy is compliant with EU regulations.
“I would always advise customers to read reviews and if they’re unsure, they should seek advice from a chemist, or a sales representative,” says Anthony. LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A PLETHORA OF VIDEOS SHOWING SOME VERY UNCOMFORTABLE-LOOKING BLOGGERS TRYING TO REMOVE A PEEL-OFF CHARCOAL MASK – HOW HAS THIS AFFECTED THE MARKET? “It's such a shame that so many videos are showing bloggers in pain; although it's only a handful of products which are causing this negativity, it can definitely cause a chain reaction across the whole industry.”
CHARCOAL HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN FOR ITS DETOXIF YING QUALITIES, BUT WITH AN EVER-GROWING ARR AY OF PRODUC TS ON OFFER, MANY OF WHICH HAVE AT TR AC TED NEGATIVE BLOGGER REVIEWS AND PRESS, IT CAN BE TOUGH TO WORK OUT THE GOOD FROM THE BAD. BEAUT YPRO IS A BR AND WELL-KNOWN FOR ITS VARIET Y OF SKIN-ENHANCING MASKS, INCLUDING SOME THAT FEATURE CHARCOAL, SO WE THOUGHT WE’D TALK OVER THE ISSUE WITH THE BR AND’S DIGITAL MARKETING AND BR AND MANAGER, ANTHONY VELOSO.
HOW LONG HAS BEAUTYPRO BEEN USING CHARCOAL IN ITS PRODUCTS? “We added Activated Charcoal to our product portfolio with the introduction of our Detoxifying Bubbling Mask in early 2016.” IS THERE ANYONE WHO SHOULD AVOID USING A CHARCOAL-BASED MASK? "Activated Charcoal products work best for people with oily or acne prone skin." WHAT'S YOUR BEST-SELLING MASK? "Our Black Diamond Peel-Off Mask with Activated Charcoal has been a popular product since its launch in early 2017."
ANTHONY’S HOW-TO MASK APPLICATION AND REMOVAL // Apply a thin layer of the mask to the face, avoiding the eyes and hairline. The mask should take 15-20 minutes to be completely dry. You may find that the forehead and T-zone area takes the longest amount of time to dry as both areas can be quite oily. // Once the mask has set, slowly peel the mask off, close to the skin, in an upwards motion. This will ensure minimal pull against the skin. // Once removed use a tissue with water to remove any excess residue from the face.
ARE WE STILL MULTI-MASKING? IF SO, HOW MANY MASKS CAN WE TRY IN ONE SESSION? “Multi-masking is great and works really well in a professional environment, allowing the therapist to charge a premium price for a treatment comprising of several masks.
Here is our ideal salon regime: 1. Start with a detoxifying mask to deep cleanse the face. Leave on for 10 minutes. Once the time is up, wipe the mask away. 2. Apply under-eye patches. While they work their magic, apply our Black Diamond Peel-Off Mask around the T-zone section of the face. Leave both the eye patches and black diamond mask on the face for 15-20 minutes. Once dry, peel the mask off the face and remove the eye Patches. 3. Finish the treatment by using a collagen sheet mask to pump moisture back into the skin.”
AS WELL AS MASKS BEING BIG BUSINESS FOR BEAUTYPRO, THEY’RE ALSO BECOMING MORE POPULAR WITH THE BRAND’S AWARD-WINNING SIBLING, BARBER PRO.
C A PI TA L BE AU T Y
BarberPro HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN MAKING MALE-SPECIFIC MASKS? “The Barber Pro brand launched in 2015 with one mask, our award-winning Post Shave Cooling Mask. We have since introduced an additional four masks into the range: Face Putty, Under Eye Patches, Gentlemen’s Sheet Mask and Foaming Cleansing Mask – all of which contain Activated Charcoal.” THERE'S A SEVEN DAYS/SEVEN MASKS CHALLENGE GOING AROUND OVER ON INSTAGRAM, WITH SOME INFLUENCERS/ BLOGGERS SAYING IT GIVES AMAZING RESULTS - IS THIS A GOOD, OR BAD THING FOR OUR SKIN? “We would recommend using masks once or twice a week. Similar to how washing your hair every day can reduce its natural nutrients and oils, it's the same for the face. However, all skin types are different and all our masks can be used to combat a variety of different issues.”
ARE THERE ANY KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN YOUR MASKS FOR MEN AND WOMEN? “All of our Barber Pro masks contain Activated Charcoal, which is ideal for drawing out dirt, whereas not all of our BeautyPro masks do. The Post Shave Mask also has the addition of a serum-infused spun lace mask, which wraps around the neck to calm and cool the skin.” WHAT'S YOUR BEST-SELLING MEN'S MASK? “It has to be our Barber Pro Face Putty Peel-Off Mask, designed to loosen blackheads and cleanse deep into the pores.”
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON BEAUT YPRO VISIT BEAUT YPRO.COM, AND FOR MORE ON BARBER PRO, VISIT BARBERPRO.COM /41
WHEN SALON OWNER INNY K AUR DECIDED TO OPEN HER SECOND LOCATION, SHE DECIDED IT WAS A NO-BR AINER TO COME BACK TO CAPITAL TO GET EVERY THING SHE NEEDED. HERE INNY SHARES THE PROCESS.
DID YOU HAVE A CLEAR IDEA OF THE ACTUAL LOOK, COLOUR SCHEME, ETC? We wanted to transfer elements of our first salon across; we used Salon Ambience equipment from Capital back in 2014 when opening our Beckenham salon, and the furniture has become part of our brand identity – our customers love it! It’s practical and comfortable and the rose gold colour scheme really makes a statement.
CAPITAL (LEE) / Hair Salon 1:75
ALL IMAGERY SUPPLIED
C A PI TA L IN T E R I OR S
WHAT WAS YOUR AIM WHEN IT CAME TO THE LOOK OF THIS SALON? I wanted to create a fresh, bright and modern salon; it needed to be eye-catching and stand out from the other salons in the area.
SALON #Hair LOCATION Petts Wood, Orpington INSTAGRAM @hashtaghairlon FACEBOOK hashtaghairlondon WEBSITE hashtaghair-london.co.uk This time around we opted for Aviator Nickel, a beautifully soft grey, as our signature colour, and, as we were so happy with the look and feel of the furniture we purchased previously, we stuck to that same specification. Everything is from Salon Ambience, including the luxury wash point with electric leg rest and the square chairs, and we’ve also added the Natalie makeup and threading chair, alongside the Las Vegas makeup unit.
The whole refit was completed in 10 days and the transformation was spectacular.
WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU FACED? The positioning of the wash basins and maximising the space. Capital created a salon plan to show us how we could turn a four-position salon, with two wash units and a small beauty room into a nine-position space with three wash units and a dedicated colour/makeup area, as well as a waiting area for four people!
TOP TIP FOR SOMEONE WANTING TO REVAMP THEIR SALON? Make an appointment to see one of Capital’s Salon Furniture Specialists at their showrooms. Also consider financing the furniture – it really helped us and the finance team at Shire couldn’t have been more helpful in making the process simple, easy and quick.
C A PI TA L IN T E R I OR S
HOW DID THE CAPITAL TEAM HELP YOU WHEN IT CAME TO MAKING YOUR VISION A REALITY? The service was second to none; it was clear that the team was dedicated to making the project happen for us. Our builders, Gazelle Electrical, were given everything they needed, from drawings and plans to fitting instructions.
DID YOU HAVE A DEFINITE BUDGET IN MIND? DID YOU STICK TO IT? We did, and we opted to finance the equipment via Capital’s finance company, Shire; this really helped, particularly with so many immediate expenses such as legal, building and marketing to deal with. Using their finance company meant that we were able to get exactly what we wanted.
Three years ago, I lost an old friend to suicide. So many people attended the funeral that they couldn’t get everyone through the crematorium doors – some friends had to wait outside to pay their respects. This gesture of love made me realise that, despite all of the people in attendance, my friend must have still felt completely alone, unable to talk to anyone about his problems. This harrowing experience affects thousands of UK families a year and is ultimately what led me to form the Lions Barber Collective: a charity that raises awareness for and helps men around the world suffering with mental illness that may otherwise suffer in complete silence. With the help of a dedicated team of incredible barbers and the support of passionate brands such as The Bluebeards Revenge, we want to make barbershops the number one hangout spot for men in the UK; a place where they can share their problems with like-minded people in a nonclinical and non-judgemental environment. As a result, the Lions Barber Collective has saved 11 men (that we know of) from making a decision that cannot be undone. Our work is crucial, especially as the mental
health epidemic is not showing any signs of slowing down. Suicide is the biggest killer of men under the age of 45 and, in 2014, 76 percent of all suicide victims in the UK were male. For World Suicide Prevention Day, we commissioned a survey with men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, and discovered that a staggering 58 percent of UK men still don’t feel like they can open up about their mental health issues. This important research also proved that men are much more stressed today than they were 10 years ago: a staggering 62 percent of those aged 35-or-over said they felt greater pressure in 2017 than they did back in 2007. As a barber, I am able to have a uniquely close relationship with my clients: they trust me to make them look and feel amazing and I touch intimate areas such as their heads, ears – even their faces. Add to that the fact that I am often outside of their social circles, and a sense of trust and confidentiality is quickly established. This trust has seen many of my clients open up to me to share their stresses and worries. Often mentioned are problems with work, money, health and more recently an
C A PI TA L CONCE RNS
WHILE TOM CHAPMAN SHARED HIS STORY OF ENTERING THE BARBERING WORLD EARLIER ON PAGE 16, WE ALSO WANTED TO GIVE HIM THE SPACE TO TALK ABOUT AN ISSUE THAT IS VERY CLOSE TO HIS HEART. WITH OVER 6,000 SUICIDES REGISTERED WITHIN THE UK IN THE PAST YEAR, THE HIGHEST SUICIDE R ATE WAS FOR MEN AGED 40- 44. IN THE REPUBLIC OF IREL AND, THE HIGHEST R ATE AFFEC TS MEN AGED 25-34. THE LIONS COLLEC TIVE, A CHARIT Y STARTED BY TOM, AIMS TO R AISE AWARENESS OF THIS GROWING ISSUE; HERE HE EXPL AINS WHY.
over-exposure to social media. In fact, when surveyed, a worrying 35 percent blamed social media for their stresses today. The only way for us to improve the current situation is to provide men with safe havens where they feel comfortable enough to speak openly. Previously, this was most likely provided by their local pubs. But today, with the barbering industry booming, 69 percent of men say their relationship with their barber is much better than their relationship with their landlord – or lady. Our survey also revealed that 92 percent of men visit their barber at least once a month, with 10 percent admitting to making weekly trips to not only smarten up their styles but to socialise. In comparison, just 70 percent of men visit their local watering hole at least once a month. The Lions Barber Collective is encouraging all barbers to educate themselves in how to recognise the signs of mental illness and depression, in customers that are willing to talk about it. Therefore, we’ve launched Barber Talk, a movement that is leading the way to provide barbers with a bespoke training programme that will enable them to guide customers to the appropriate professional help. Our work is a valuable stepping stone in helping men to break down the ancient walls that suppress mental health.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE AND BARBER TALK, VISIT THELIONSBARBERCOLLECTIVE.COM IF YOU, OR SOMEONE YOU KNOW IS STRUGGLING WITH SUICIDAL THOUGHTS, OR DEPRESSION, VISIT SAMARITANS.ORG /44
C A PI TA L S T Y LE
LOVE WHAT'S ON OUR COVER? WELL TAKE A LOOK AT THE REST!
Wow! We were instantly obsessed with this collection from the creative team at Francesco Group. Each look is completely different to the next, allowing each individual creative – whether stylist or colourist – to really push their own boundaries. Sterling work – which is why they bagged our cover this issue! HAIR Francesco Group Art Team PHOTOGRAPHY Richard Miles MAKEUP Kamanza Amihyia STYLING Jared Green
19mm 25mm 38mm 45mm
INTELLIGENT DIGITAL TONGS Argan Oil infused ceramic barrels for a shiny & ultra smooth ﬁnish
220W AC Long life motor 1000+ hours
Digital Variable heat 110ºC to 210ºC
Ionic Conditioning For a frizz free ﬁnish 5,000,000 ions/cm3
Instant heat ready to style in seconds
Unique combination of hot bristles to relax the hair & cool bristles to set it straight
SPEED BRUSH PRO Straightener results With the ease and speed of a brush Macadamia, Argan Oil & Keratin infused bristles Reduce frizz & add brilliant shine Single stroke styling With instant heat-up & recovery Digital variable heat 110ºC to 210ºC
Cool grooves allow you to add curls & ﬂicks
FREE TO ALL CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY CUSTOMERS!
WINTER is coming
THE NEXT BIG TRENDS FOR HAIR
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Foropening openinghours hours&&store storelocations locations For visitour ourwebsite websitetoday! today! visit
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Who runs the world? WE TALK TO FOUR FEMALE POWER PL AYERS
Discover the Winter hair and nails trends for 2017 in this issue. We have some exclusive interviews including '3 Barbers, 3 Ways' - featurin...
Published on Nov 14, 2017
Discover the Winter hair and nails trends for 2017 in this issue. We have some exclusive interviews including '3 Barbers, 3 Ways' - featurin...