The Capital Cut | Winter 2024

WINTER 2024 ISSUE

Slay the season

B O O S T YO U R P R O F I T S W I T H O U R T O P C H R I S T M A S R E TA I L O F F E R S AI

Does it have a place in the salon?

S T Y LE D I R EC TO RY:

very demure or very edgy?

WINTER 2024 / 1

AUTUMN/WINTER TREND REPORT MUTED SHADES

The trend world is inspired by organic resources, natural landscapes, stone, clay and crystalline minerals that represent a mix of earthy warm and stone-grey inspired cool tones. This feeds into a muted style look and plays heavily into one of the key trends for the season.1

ALLSPICE

8A

8SB

BRICK

PALE FAWN

8CA

10N

10GB

9N

6KG

6K

8KN

STEP BY STEP - NOUVEAU COPPER Use Color Melting by alternating the formulas in Zig Zag sections to achieve multi-dimensional “muted” results. The Color Melting technique allows a seamless transition with dimension when sections overlap.

EXPERT TIP: Thinner sections allow a more blended result and a multi-tonal effect. Choosing shades from similar shade direction avoids strong contrasts.

BEFORE

STEP 1: PRE-LIGHTENING

STEP 2: COLOR

Before: Natural regrowth: 6N; Mid-lengths and ends: 6G, 7BG 1A: Pre-lighten with Oxycur Platin Dust-Free Bleach.

Use back-to-back stretched highlights to create a lighter effect 2A: Regrowth 50 ml System Developer Lotion 6% (20 vol.) + 30 ml Topchic 8KN + 15 ml Topchic 7BN + 5 ml Topchic 7G + 6 drops System @Pure Pigments Cool Pink 2B: Mid-lengths and ends 60 ml System Developer Lotion 2% (7 vol.) + 20 ml Colorance 10BB + 10 ml Colorance Pastel Peach + 5 drops System @Pure Pigments Cool Pink

Contents EDITOR’S LETTER Winter’s here but never fear, we’ve got a brilliant array of expert tips, inspiration and advice on how to get through the festive season and beyond.

First off we’re taking a look at what a week in Sassoon’s Mark Hayes’ shoes looks like. On page 6 we’ve got the brand’s International Creative Director sharing his thoughts on work, travel and family and his advice is followed by some expert takes on how to use AI to improve the customer service experience, page 10.

From page 12 onwards we’re fully focused on essential styles for the season, plus the most beautiful trend of Renaissance painting-inspired colour trends, as well as a focus on men’s styling, including the Korean Mullet.

When it comes to beauty, we’ve got 4 pages of nail inspiration and trends from page 24, plus 4 pages of the latest tips and techniques when it comes to bleached brows, fresh skin and underlashing.

By the way, we’d love to know what you’d like to see more of in the Capital Cut so don’t hesitate to get in touch over on our socials. You can find us @capitalhairuk and @capitalhairireland on Instagram, @capitalhairandbeauty on Facebook and @capitalhair on TikTok.

Karen Hicks

Use Dualsenses Bond Pro: Fortifying Shampoo to provide instant care and structure and Fortifying Conditioner for instantly stronger hair.

To finish the look, use StyleSign Volume Root Boost Spray at the roots and in length and ends. Then apply StyleSign Smooth Air-Dry BB Cream to instantly nourish and reduce frizz for smooth, controlled and healthy-looking hair.

Source: Stylus.com / trend directions AW 2024/25

04 06 10 12 18 20

TRIED AND TESTED

Festive gifting special

WEEK IN MY SHOES

Meet Mark Hayes, International Creative Director of iconic brand Sassoon

IS AI GOOD FOR BUSINESS?

The experts say yes

STYLE DIRECTORY

Very demure, very mindful

COLOUR SPECIAL

Renaissance reds, buttery blondes and more

MEN’S STYLING

A couple of classics plus a new take on the mullet

Marketing Manager

24 28

2C: Mid-lengths and ends 50 ml System Developer Lotion 3% (10 vol.) + 30 ml Topchic 8KN + 20 ml Topchic 8B

STEP 3: CARE & STYLING

INSIDE

ON THE COVER We’re obsessed with this 90s-inspired textured look from Emma Simmons of Salon 54.

Hair: Emma Simmons Makeup: Megumi Matsuno Photographer: Andrew O’Toole Styling: Anna Latham

30 33 34

NAIL TRENDS

6 seasonal styles to play with

BEAUTY FOCUS

Bleached brows and fresh skin

LASH TRENDS

From 1960s-style to underlashing

THE BEAUTY EDIT

Festive essentials for your kit

CAPITAL ADVICE

How to sleigh the festive season

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WINTER 2024 / 3

CAPITAL / SHOP

CAPITAL / SHOP

TRIED &

TESTED Welcome to a bumper selection of the latest offerings at Capital, including a special seasonal focus for retail must-haves your clients will love.

SERUM ESSENTIALS Serums have become essential to any skincare regime, because they’re great for targeting a specific issue. As such these Skin Republic Serums cater to a wide range of issues, from soothing Niacinamide + Zinc and exfoliating Glycolic Acid to skin-plumping Collagen and hydrating Hyaluronic Acid. From £7.50/€8.85 for 30ml

THE GIFT OF GIVING!

CRUNCH-FREE CURLS Promising 72 hours of frizz control, the Olaplex No.10 Curl Defining Gel offers the ultimate in curl care. Suitable for all hair types, this gel isn’t just for styling; it’s designed to be a reparative treat that gives flexible hold for beautiful, touchable curls. £15.50/€17.70

Check out our selection of stunning gift sets for Christmas retailing.

A SUPER SMOOTH SEASON

IT ALL STARTS WITH THE JUICE A healthy scalp means better conditions for healthy hair growth, and this Color Wow Youth Juice does it all. Proven to reduce shedding by up to 90% within 28 days, this collagen scalp serum leaves hair more resilient and feeling thicker. £22.00

A COOLER RESULT Neutralise unwanted warm tones for anyone with bleached, blonde or grey hair with the new NXT Blonde FX. From the very first use this revolutionary product shows an instant transformation and results can be seen in as little as 10 seconds thanks to its non-oily Hydrogel Base. £11.95/€14.95 for 250ml

Everyone deserves the gift of Olaplex this season and we love this Get Your Shine On set; it features a leave-in treatment and No.7 Bonding Oil for smooth ends. £22.00/€28.00

COLOR WOW THEM THIS CHRISTMAS This Color Wow Smooth + Shiny VIP set features three hero products, including the iconic Dream Coat Supernatural Spray. £22.99

SOMETHING NAUGHTY AND NICE FROM TMC Leave it to TMC to give your nail clients a special treat – or two! Choose from the Naughty & Nice Collection of 6 shimmering seasonal shades (£44.25/€46.30) or the Naughty & Nice Metallic Gel Cream trio (£23.85).

BLOW DRIES, REINVENTED Meet ghd’s latest innovation, the Duet Blow Dry. The first of its kind to combine hot air and heated styling plates, it takes hair from wet to dry without heat damage and increases volume. This is the fastest way to blow dry without tangles or breakage. £245.00/€279.00

Shop all this and more at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie

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WINTER 2024 / 5

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Let’s spend the week with Mark Hayes, the International Creative Director at House of Sassoon.

Mark started his journey with this iconic brand at the South Molton Street salon, as an assistant aged just 16. Today he’s been with the brand for 47 memorable and ground-breaking years.

Location Soho, London Social handles @markhsassoon @house_of_sassoon_salon_soho

A WEEK IN

MONDAY

THURSDAY

Today I spent the afternoon judging the British Hairdressing Awards at Epsom racecourse. I still get such a thrill of excitement from meeting my contemporaries and assessing the level of creativity in the UK hair industry.

Some of my most iconic work was created for my nomination for British Hairdresser of the Year, like this look created on the wonderful Rachel for the Minimum collection in 2013.

Teaching is an incredibly huge part of the Sassoon DNA and as International Creative Director I host regular cutting courses where guests have the opportunity to collaborate with me on a series of techniques.

It’s a creative week and I get as much out of as our participants do. Within the hair industry it’s so important to never stop learning.

TUESDAY Met with our representatives from our Schoolship programme, which is celebrating its 25th year in Japan and Korea. Schoolship is a way of connecting Sassoon education with young aspiring hairdressing students. I first visited Japan in 1984 and have been fortunate to travel to this inspiring country every year since. Here I am judging the annual Schoolship cutting contest – there’s often thousands in the audience and hundreds of contestants taking part. I’m glad to say the event has really become something of great significance on the Japanese and Korean hairdressing calendars.

MY

SHOES

Mark and family 6 / THE CAPITAL CUT

All imagery supplied

WEDNESDAY Photography has always been a source of visual inspiration to me and a few years ago I decided to study the subject in more detail. I now host courses at Sassoon where participants shoot alongside me and create their own portfolio of work.

Here I am in action – this is an example of one of my images on the remarkable Kat for our 65th Anniversary collection.

MARK’S FAVOURITE QUOTE

“As you teach, you learn.”

FRIDAY Today it’s all about prepping for Salon International, which is always a huge part of the hair industry calendar. Our prep usually starts about six months prior to the event. We rely on a variety of methods to inspire us and there are so many processes involved; from constructing mood boards to planning music, makeup, choreography and show production. All of these things play a major role in ensuring we have a successful and memorable event.

THE WEEKEND Unless I’m travelling or working, the weekend is for family. From right to left Tracy, yours truly, Ajike holding Folasade, Jamie, Lucie and Aderemi. The Hayes nuclear family!

WINTER 2024 / 7

WHICH DREAM COAT FRIZZ-FIGHTER IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

TRAINING ROOM HIRE Need space for treatments or for training students?

More Moisture. Stronger Anti-Frizz Resistance.

Our training rooms are available for hire Ask in-store or scan the QR code for more information.

LET’S STAY CONNECTED! Dream Coat’s award-winning, water-proofing technology makes it the summer’s most sought-after treatment for creating glossy, glassy smooth styles and preventing frizz, even in the worst humidity. But which Dream Coat Anti-Frizz Treatment is right for you? Dream Coat Supernatural Spray is for any type of frizz-prone hair. But if your hair texture is dry/dehydrated or naturally curly/coily, NEW! Extra Strength Dream Coat has the ultra-powerful, lasting frizz-resistance you need!

Tag #capitaluk or #capitalhairireland for a chance to be featured on our page! Follow us on our socials for daily inspiration and industry insights capitalhairuk / capitalhairireland capitalhair capitalhairuk / capitalhairireland

CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK 8 / THE CAPITAL CUT

WINTER 2024 / 9

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Is AI good for business?

“By using AI salon owners can not only maintain a positive online reputation but also gain valuable insights into customer satisfaction, driving continuous improvement and business growth.”

ADAM THOMAS

Opportunities of AI

Emma Simmons

How to use AI in the right way AI is transforming the way we do business in our salon and it offers both exciting opportunities and challenges.

AI-powered tools like ChatGPT enhance customer service by providing instant responses to inquiries, booking appointments, and offering product recommendations. This allows our team to focus on the in-person experience while AI handles routine tasks, improving efficiency.

Shutterstock

AI can also analyse customer data to offer us personalised marketing strategies which allow us to increase customer satisfaction and retention.

It offers insights into trends and operations, helping us to optimise our services and streamline the workflow.

While AI (Artificial Intelligence) feels very new, and very now, it’s actually technology that began being used decades ago, and was based on the premise of creating machines that could think like humans. Today we have the power of AI in our hands thanks to our smartphones and computers, and it presents a wealth of opportunities, especially for the business owner.

Read on to hear how our experts use it in their everyday workload.

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However, AI is not without its downsides. Relying too much on AI for customer interaction means your business could risk losing the personal touch that clients expect. There’s also a learning curve for implementing these systems, which can take time, and the cost of integrating AI tools can be high depending on the systems used. Additionally, AI might struggle with nuanced requests or understanding complex client preferences, making human attention absolutely essential.

Overall, AI in hair salons has great potential, but balance is key to maintaining the personal connection that our clients value. I always proofread any social media posts etc. that we use AI to generate before uploading.

Emma Simmons, Salon 54

Hairdressing is all about human connection and I really believe this is something that can’t be lost.

So when it comes to AI, I prefer to embrace the ways I want to use it, without feeling intimidated or pressured into using it.

For our industry, I see the big opportunity of AI for automating the more basic tasks such as bookings, reminders, cancellations and websites to enable you and your team to spend more time being creative and/or strategic. I think it’s wise to lean into the ways AI tools can support your business, giving you more time for human interaction. For example Grammarly is one of my favourite AI recommendations - it’s a winner for refining professional writing for emails and gives you the confidence to convey your message with spelling and grammar all in check.

Lacey Hunter Felton, co-founder of Hunter Collective

AI for an enhanced customer experience By using AI salon owners can not only maintain a positive online reputation but also gain valuable insights into customer satisfaction, driving continuous improvement and business growth.

Our new salonspy reply.with.ai function has been rigorously tested over the last few months to ensure authentic responses that mimic each salon’s unique tone of voice. The salonspy team has ‘trained’ GPT-4, an AI ‘chatbot’ similar to Chat GPT - on how to reply to reviews for hair salons, repeating and revising the process to ensure a flawless service that is both personalised to the salon and written for SEO optimisation.

Embracing AI for review management is a strategic step towards delivering exceptional customer experiences and sustaining a competitive edge in the beauty and hair industry.

Adam Thomas, founder of salonspy WINTER 2024 / 11

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CAPITAL / STYLE

VERY DEMURE

STYLE DIRECTORY @tonyastylist

This season’s styling is split into two camps; either long and demure or edgy and fashion forward. Read on for our expert takes on the trends, plus a gorgeous wavy get the look for you to try.

Makeup influencer Jools Lebron might have reinterpreted the real meaning of the word ‘demure’ for her viral videos but the fact remains that women’s styling is going very demure for winter. The emphasis with this trend is more on using the right products to get results, and this trend’s results are focused on hair that’s healthy and touchable with zero split ends.

When it comes to styling, the demure trend is all about keeping hair looking healthy and styled out of the way – perfect for clients who like to experiment with updos and ponytails.

@uvasalon

Wavy looks are going to take us all the way from winter through to spring if the SS25 catwalks are anything to go by. There’s something about these dreamy, unfussy waves that’s catching on all over social media and as long as your client’s got the length, you can easily create the waves they’re craving. Check out the get the look below to find out how.

@sabrinathehairwitch

LONG, LOOSE WAVES

GET THE LOOK: EASY WAVES Zoë Rees of Bliss Sustainable Salon shares her styling tips on recreating her gorgeous Cindy Crawford-inspired ‘90s blowout.

STEP 1: Dry the hair until it’s about 30 percent dry.

STEP 2: Apply a porosity spray if ends are damaged and dry.

STEP 3: Now it’s time to layer up your favourite volumising products based on your client’s hair type.

@scottkinghair

STEP 4: Next it’s time to give a directional blow-dry.

Make sure you’re wrapping the hair around the brush twice to ensure maximum curl shape and then leave the brushes in the hair to cool.

@chrisappleton

STEP 5: Use the cool shot setting on the hair dryer to completely cool the hair.

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STEP 6: Spray over a setting spray and remove brushes once cooled.

STEP 7: Dress out hair using a natural bristle brush and voilà! You’ve created maximum volume, gorgeous waves. @bliss_sustainablesalon WINTER 2024 / 13

CAPITAL / STYLE

CAPITAL / STYLE

@jhair_stylist

@antonthomashair

Following on from ‘rich girl’ length, this trend oozes ‘health is wealth’ and is perfect for your long-haired clients who love to show off their length in style. So, what exactly is the ‘hourglass cut’? It’s all about clever layering that’s used to balance out the bulk that often comes with longer hair.

The ends are tapered around the client’s waist to enhance an ‘hourglass’ shape so as well as accentuating the face, it’s a cut that considers the body shape too.

Schwarzkopf Essential Looks

HOURGLASS CUTS

A CASE FOR THE BLUNT BOB

SHORT, CHOPPY FRINGES

For clients who aren’t concerned with growing their hair for length, but more for experimenting, a fringe is a good start for something a little more edgy.

“Fringes can elevate any look, from an androgynous cut to long layers. For clients who want a fringe but aren’t sure which fringe style to go for, I would make a case for the choppy fringe,” says OSMO Ambassador Becky Sutherland.

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@ciara @hirohair

@hirohair

@hirohair

@hairbymaaar

Jake Unger, HOB Academy Head of Education breaks down the versatility of the bob for every face shape.

She continues: “unlike blunt fringes that cover the forehead with a thick curtain of hair, choppy fringes bring movement and texture to any haircut. They’re easy to style and add a dynamic edge.

“Whether they stick to a strict trim schedule or decide to let their fringe grow out, advise your client to invest in a good styling pomade to achieve the best texture.

I love OSMO Elite Pomade which provides excellent texture without any sticky residue.”

ROUND FACE

HEART-SHAPED FACE

For a flattering and slimming effect, it’s all about creating a longer bob with subtle layers. This style choice not only elongates the face but also adds dimension and movement to the hair.

Rounder face shapes should steer clear of overly blunt or chin-length cuts, both of which can accentuate roundness.

To balance a wider forehead, a great option is a chin-length bob or a layered cut. Both draw attention away from the forehead and create a more harmonious overall appearance.

Additionally, side-swept bangs can work wonders in softening the forehead while adding dimension.

SQUARE FACE

LONG FACE

To soften angular features, a textured bob or a side-parted style can work wonders. These options help to add dimension and create a more gentle silhouette, effectively softening the angles of the face. Additionally, consider advising your client to incorporate some face-framing layers or soft bangs; these subtle elements can add a touch of softness while framing the face beautifully.

For those looking to add width and volume to the sides of the face, a textured or layered bob is an excellent choice. These cuts effectively break up the length and create movement, resulting in a fuller appearance around the face.

By incorporating layers or texture into a bob, you can add volume and dimension, balancing your client’s look.

OVAL FACE Said to be the most balanced face shape, those with oval shapes can rock most bob styles with ease. What’s more they can really experiment with various lengths and textures to find their signature look.

The key is to create a bob that not only flatters the client’s face shape but also reflects their personal style.

Shop all of your styling needs at capitalhairandbeauty.ie and capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk today WINTER 2024 / 15

COLOR TOUCH

THE PRINCIPLES

COLOR TOUCH

UNCOMPROMISED VIBRANCY & SHINE

MELT

Now vegan with built-in Metal Purifier for true-to-tone vibrancy no matter the hair condition.

• • • • • • •

01. PERSONALISED COLOUR PALETTE

Inspire a client to be more confident and playful with different colours in their hair.

Diagnose a collection of shades which are perfectly suited to their hair type, skin tone and colour preferences.

Gentle with up to 85% naturally derived ingredients1 Ammonia-free2, silicones-free and mineral oil-free +90 vibrant shades Beautifully fades over 28 washes Up to 70%3 grey coverage with soft regrowth Packaging is made with 100% recycled materials Intense vibrancy in just 15 minutes4

02. PERSONALISED COLOUR PLACEMENT

COLOR TOUCH SERVICES

TRANSFORMATIVE TONING

GREY BLENDING

COLOR BALANCING

BLONDE TONING

Use up to 5 shades which are different in depth with warm & cool variations.

Add a deep root colour to blend away your client’s regrowth.

03.

COLOR TOUCH MELT

Signature service for 100% personalised color

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Alternate shades through ends

Deepen the Roots

1. Includes water and ingredients made from natural ingredients.

See https://www.wella com/professional/en-US/natural-formula.

2. Except Color Touch Plus which is low-ammonia.

3. With Color Touch Plus.

4. With heat.

SEAMLESSLY MELT COLOUR

At the end of development, comb all your shades together to blend the tones, for a seamless multi-faceted finish. A completely personalised colour result, is never just one shade.

WINTER 2024 / 17

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DEEP CHOCOLATE BRUNETTES

WINTER COLOUR VIBES

Teresa Weller

Your winter colour work is about to be a total masterpiece!

Think rich, artsy tones straight out of classical paintings.

We’re talking Renaissance reds, creamy blondes, deep brunettes, and sleek jet blacks. Ready to level up your client’s look?

HONEY BLONDES

We’re moving away from icy tones to more luscious, honey blonde blends of gold with warm amber-brown tones.

This creates a softer, more natural look, and works well with multiple skin tones.

Jasmin, Haringtons Beaconsfield

Rich reds and how to keep them vibrant with Sophie-Rose Goldsworthy “Red, copper, ruby or chestnut – whatever you call it, reds are set to dominate this season. I’m loving deep, earthy reds like burgundy, mahogany, and chestnut because they’re warm yet sophisticated,” says Sophie.

Our current salon favourite is buttery blonde. It’s a soft, radiant look that can vary in intensity, from a light, airy blonde to a richer honey-toned blonde. Our clients love it! Belle Sedunary, Gritt London

RENAISSANCE REDS

SOPHIE-ROSE’S TOP COLOUR TIPS

In Renaissance art, we saw striking red-haired goddesses being celebrated for their beauty. Now this fiery red is back and bolder than ever…and we’re loving it. Red is not just a colour; it’s a movement! Fergal Doyle

1

During the consultation, be sure to ask the right question so you can work out how much maintenance the client will need to undertake.

For instance, if they only want a vibrant shade root to tip, make sure they’re on board for regular frequent appointments. If they prefer lived-in lower-maintenance styles, include a natural root smudge and choose a shade that will look as beautiful faded as it does fresh.

Andrew Jose

Fergal Doyle

JET BLACK

2

Advise your clients on the importance of homecare to maintain and protect their colour; think colour saving shampoos and treatments they can use at home. I love to recommend L’Oréal Professionnel’s Metal Detox range because it’s perfect for stopping damaging metals from disrupting hair colour and condition whilst maintaining shine.

Teresa Weller

Jonnie McKinnon, educator at L’Oréal Professionnel talks deep, rich brunettes

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This season we will see a real trend for bespoke reflects with multidimensionality within the deeper palettes. Dia Color is our demi-permanent hair colour and it’s infused with Hyaluronic Acid to support hydration and Shea Butter for added moisture. As well as offering these skincare-inspired ingredients, this is the perfect range for covering, darkening, blending and enhancing without the fear of long-term commitment.

With six beautiful, new shades it’s easier than ever to keep your clients on trend.

For more information on Dia Color, and all things L’Oréal Professionnel, head over to Jonnie.pro on Instagram and TikTok.

3

R ob

er

t

ROBERT EATON’S TOP TIPS FOR THE PERFECT BRUNETTE 1

Goldsworthys

Love Hair

Gritt London

BUTTERY BLONDES

Jet black is perfect for clients who want a truly dramatic and sophisticated look. For clients looking to make a bold statement, jet black could be just what they’re after. Salon Couture

For me it’s all about a toffee brunette this winter, as seen on Kamala Harris, Jennifer Lopez, Sofia Vergara and Khloe Kardashian. This is a rich and intense tone for brunettes and is all about a glowing finish. The tones are warm and combine chocolate, caramel and intense gold for a reflective shine.

Tom Smith, Billie Currie

Ea to n

Deep chocolate brunettes remain popular in the salon, from mocha and hot cocoa to truffle brown and chocolate cherry. These tones give hair a healthy shine and ooze elegance and sophistication.

Teresa Weller

My biggest tip is heat protection. Every client should be using some form of heat protection; it’s the easiest way to maintain hair condition and prevent colour fade which is essential with reds and coppers.

L’Oréal Professionnel’s TECNI Art PLI is my staple go-to product because it’s buildable and offers both heat protection and styling hold.

Apply a global application for a brunette, then a glaze that goes over the surface to give it a pop of colour and shine.

L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Color 6.84 is the hero shade for this trend.

2 Rose Brunette is perfect with a face framing technique – lighter around the face but with depth everywhere else. Apply L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Light Booster in red or copper for that rose gold finish.

3 Colour blocking is best for brunettes as it reflects the light for a shiny finish.

4 Make sure you get the right depth of brunette for the skin tone; you don’t want your client looking wishy-washy.

The hair should look healthy with plenty of depth.

Don’t forget we’ve got all your colour care products in store and online at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie WINTER 2024 / 19

TRENDS Andrew Jose

Men’s hair has been making a return to some classic shapes, but there’s also something brand new: the Korean Mullet. Read on to find out how our experts work each look.

PREPPY, AGAIN

MaxOliver

Preppy styling is making waves in fashion right now and it works just as well when it comes to hair. The preppy style features a neater and more tapered back and sides with the top significantly longer, styled off, away from the face. This is a very low maintenance look that requires minimal product and remains touchable throughout the day. Oliver Hill and Sam Kerr-Sheppard, MaxOliver

Preppy cuts combine clean, classic lines with a modern twist. Typically, short on the sides with a longer top, this style is polished, professional and timeless. What sets the modern preppy cut apart is the addition of texture and slight messiness, making it less rigid and more adaptable to different occasions. Kyle Ross, OSMO Ambassador

INTRODUCING THE KOREAN MULLET When styled with a centre-parting, the cool Korean Mullet has a really chill vibe, with the sides and top cut to medium length, while the back stays longer. The ‘curtains’ in the front is really what differentiates this look from other, more established mullet styles. Rino Riccio, Manifesto

Embracing natural texture is an excellent way for clients to rock an easy-to-wear style. Advise them to use a hydrating product like a leave-in conditioner or a lightweight styling cream to achieve definition and texture.

Tom Hoffman, Diligents Working with your natural texture is a great way to add volume, shape, and depth while still being low maintenance. Use a hydrating product like a salt spray to create movement and hold.

George Smith, Smith England

Manifesto

Scan the QR code to discover more.

The shape of the Korean mullet stands out for its longer fringe and for our take on the trend, we used American Crew Texture Foam which was dried in using a diffuser on a low heat and speed. Then we used American Crew Boost Powder and a texture paste to really break up the layers and finish the look. Alex Wakefield, Fella

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*Revive colour on base 10 in 10 seconds

REMOVE YELLOW AND COPPER TONES IN AS LITTLE AS 10 SECONDS*

George Smith

Be sure to visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie for all your men’s styling needs.

NEW VISIBLY TRANSFORM BLONDE HAIR FOR A RADIANT CLEAR COOL BLONDE!

NATURAL TEXTURE For clients who want a very natural finish, OSMO Matt Sea Spray dried into the hair and finished with OSMO Matte Clay Extreme adds volume and gives separation to the layers. Alternatively, if like me the client wants to add some definition to their curls, OSMO Corruptor is my absolute go-to. Kyle Ross, OSMO Ambassador Indola

TA L K I N G

CAPITAL / MENS

nxthair

nxthair.co.uk WINTER 2024 / 21

“Schwarzkopf is my go-to for blonde.

I trust them with my hair to get me the blonde I want ”

SOFIA SOFIAVERGARA VERGARA SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL'S GLOBAL AMBASSADOR, ACTRESS & PRODUCER

2024 is the year of Lived-In Blonde, the on-trend color service now embraced by Sofia Vergara, created by colour expert & stylist Chris Appleton.

Transitioning from her brunette to a natural, customised Lived-In Blonde, Sofia's mid-lengths and ends are beautifully brightened, thanks to Schwarzkopf Professional products.

We know that behind every client’s hair there is a story of courage, empowerment and trust, and this year we want to see those stories come to life. With Vergara as their new Global Ambassador, Schwarzkopf Professional aim to inspire the global community of hairdressers and consumers to tell their hair stories, the processes behind it and to show up their true selves.

CHRIS APPLETON

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL'S GLOBAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR

THE THE MASTERMIND MASTERMIND BEHIND BEHIND SOFIA’S SOFIA’S LIVED-IN LIVED-IN BLONDE BLONDE Schwarzkopf Professional are thrilled to welcome Chris Appleton as their new Global Colour Ambassador. As Hollywood's go-to stylist and an expert in blonde transformations, Chris highlights why he trusts Schwarzkopf for his clients, so they can tell their own hair story.

Chris created a Lived-in Blonde look for Sofia, the perfect customised hair colour built on the natural base of her hair, looking natural, premium and perfectly blended.

COLOR RECIPE: COLOUR 1 – FOILS: IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS 12-0 + 12-1 (1:1) + IGORA ROYAL DEVELOPER OIL 12% | 30 VOL. (1:2) COLOUR 2 - FACE FRAME: BLONDME PREMIUM LIGHTENER 9+ + BLONDME PREMIUM DEVELOPER 2% | 7 VOL. (1:2) COLOUR 3 - ALL OVER: IGORA VIBRANCE 5-4 + 7-4 + 6-0 (1:1:1) + IGORA VIBRANCE ACTIVATOR LOTION 1.9% | 6 VOL. (1:1) COLOUR 4 - TONER ON FACE FRAME: BLONDME PASTEL TONER ICE IRISE + BISCUIT (2:1) + BLONDME PREMIUM DEVELOPER 2% | 7 VOL. (1-1)

“One of the biggest trends right now is the lived-in blonde. It is a very popular look with celebrities, very sought after in the salon and it's a trend that isn't really going anywhere.” - Chris Appleton

Products used: Blondme, Igora Royal Highlift, Igora Vibrance

RECREATE

SOFIA VERGARA’S LIVED-IN BLONDE LOOK WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S STAR PRODUCTS

BLONDME PREMIUM LIGHTENER 9+

IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS

MAXIMUM LIFT WITH A MINIMUM HAIR BREAKAGE A revolutionary product that offers maximum lift with minimal hair breakage. This lightener boasts integrated Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology, which safeguards the hair fiber during processing to significantly reduce breakage.

With the ability to lift up to 9 levels, it is suitable for all hair bases, ensuring versatility for a wide range of users. The anti-yellow agents work to neutralise warm undertones, providing a cleaner, cooler blonde result.

The flexible mixing ratio further enhances its adaptability, making BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+ the go to lightener for achieving beautiful, healthy-looking blonde hair.

THE COOLEST BLONDE RESULTS WITH A HIGH PERFORMING FORMULA The go-to solution for achieving the coolest blonde results with its high-performing formula. Featuring the advanced Truelift Complex, this top-level formula delivers a more powerful lift and stronger neutralisation, ensuring optimal blonde tones.

The integrated Fibre Bond Technology reduces hair breakage, providing both effective and gentle lightening.

The 10-Series offers up to 4 levels of lift for hair bases 7 to 8, while the 12-Series provides up to 5 levels of lift for bases 6 to 8, making IGORA ROYAL Highlifts a versatile and essential choice for stunning blonde transformations.

BLONDME TONING

IGORA VIBRANCE PASTEL TONING

THE TONING RANGE ESSENTIAL FOR A PERFECT BLONDE n essential collection for achieving the perfect blonde.

This innovative toning solution incorporates Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology, which protects the hair fiber during processing to minimise breakage.

Additionally, the HydroLock Technology ensures improved moisturisation, keeping hair hydrated and healthy. The ammonia-free, pH-neutral formula further reduces hair stress, making it a gentle yet effective option.

With a versatile consistency suitable for both bottle and brush application, the BLONDME Toning range offers a comprehensive approach to maintaining beautiful, vibrant blonde hair.

FLEXIBLE APPLICATIONS AND ALWAYS EVOLVING TECHNIQUES Discover a wide range of service opportunities for all hair types with this trusted formula and developed with the Moisture Protecting Complex to enhance shine and provide superior care.

This advanced formula cares for all blonde toners, thanks to the Integrated Bonding Technology, which minimises hair breakage and ensures healthier, more resilient hair.

schwarzkopfpro.com 22 / THE CAPITAL CUT

WINTER 2024 / 23

CAPITAL / NAILS

6 SEASONAL NAIL TRENDS Nail art is the perfect accessory for every type of client, from the most fashion-forward to the more reserved ‘office baddie’.

Read on to find out our top 6 nail trends for the season.

ONE MODERN YET MAGICAL

Are you team Glinda or Elphaba?

Both of these images were created using the new OPI x Wicked collection.

Yes, it’s the season for snowflakes and candy canes, but it’s also time to update those classic trends with a touch of magic. Perhaps it’s down to the magical new film release Wicked, starring Ariana Grande and Cynthia Erivo?

Whatever the reason, it’s time to add an otherworldly quality to the traditional winter motifs. Think shimmering chrome blues, cool-toned aura designs and cat eye nails for a velvety finish.

If you want to go a little warmer, then check out @nailartbyqueenie’s stunning cinnamon velvet nail inspiration.

CAPITAL / NAILS

TWO DOUYIN NAILS Douyin is China’s version of TikTok and has become a breeding ground for inspired fashion, hair, makeup and nail trends. When it comes to nails, the Douyin style borrows from the popular makeup trend for bitten lips, flushed cheeks and shimmering skin. The resulting nail designs are often a combination of pretty pink auras, silver embellishment and iridescent topcoats.

THREE OLD MONEY/90S STYLE NAILS FRENCH TIPS The ‘90s just won’t let us go – first it was fashion, then hair, and now nails have been hit by the iconic era. Right now that means we’re going back to chunky French tips, a la Rihanna’s Perfect magazine cover from earlier this year.

Created by Kimmie Kyees, this set features a classic flesh-toned base and super thick icy white French tips.

For clients who want something with a little more oomph, the old money trend is a similar style but with subtle hints of gold and a little less of a chunky white strip. We love these designs from @gelsbybry.

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WINTER 2024 / 25

CAPITAL / NAILS

CAPITAL / NAILS

FOUR

SIX MILK BATH NAILS The milk bath nail trend first appeared in early 2023, and for some reason it just feels right, right now. This dreamy trend is the perfect way to subtly update your classic nudes and creams – think of it as a ‘very demure, very mindful’ take on the trend – perfect for clients who need to keep things subtle when it comes to workappropriate nail art.

Liia Zotova

@trejayne

@sugamama

GLASS NAILS The nail industry is brilliant at experimentation and innovation and lately glass has played a major part. While creators such as Trejayne use glass blowing techniques to create wonderful delicate pieces over on TikTok, we also saw the trend at London Fashion Week. At Simone Rocha nail artist Ama Quashies created beautiful glass petals, and for the Masha Popova show, Liia Zotova created clear glass nails in warm shades of orange and red as well as cool toned greens and greys.

The resulting looks were like mini stained-glass windows - stunning!

When the trend first emerged, it was literally about creating a mini milk bath; so the base would be a milky white polish and then delicate little flowers would either be painted on or real flowers would be secured beneath a layer of polish. The latest take on the trend is more about the milky finish, but if your client wants flowers too, go for it! That’s the key to truly nailing any trend; you need to make it your own.

FIVE CHERRY RED Red always seems to make a reappearance for the festive season, but this time around it’s taken on a fruity tone.

Cherry red is the ultimate red for clients who want a break from brighter, bolder shades and is also a luxe alternative for those who don’t want to look too festive. We particularly love Global OPI Ambassador Iram Shelton’s classy take on the trend; she’s created a soft matte base with a glossy French tip, all in the same shade.

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Don’t forget to shop for all your nail tech essentials at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie today!

WINTER 2024 / 27

CAPITAL / BEAUTY

CAPITAL / BEAUTY

From this winter onwards, it’s all about fresh-faced beauty which starts with bleached brows and ends with clean, glowing skin.

THE TREND: FRESH SKIN

Winter is probably the toughest season when it comes to our skin, so it’s vital to encourage your clients to jump on the hydration train with the most effective products. Hydrating the skin means applying ingredients that contain or attract water to the outermost layer of the skin. Common hydrating ingredients include Hyaluronic Acid – naturally found in our bodies and capable of binding up to 1,000 times its weight in water – and Glycerin, a moisturiser that naturally occurs in our skin.

As we saw backstage at the SS25 fashion shows, this focus on fresh skin is going to continue into the new year; we saw a plethora of tools, techniques and products all aimed at making the skin look its most healthy and plump. At the Feben show we saw models’ faces being slowly and thoroughly massaged with fingers and hydrating lotions, while other beauty pros used their favourite stainless steel tools to really stimulate lymphatic drainage and boost collagen.

THE TREND: BLEACHED BROWS

Bleached brows came into the trend rotation a couple of years ago and there’s no sign of stopping them. With the right techniques a bleached brow can really open up the face. Read on for top tips from Salon System Educators Ruth Atkins and Lisa Stone.

Colour harmony

If you have a client who wants lighter brows, Blonde Brow by Refectocil can be used on its own to lift natural pigment from the brows – the same way a hair bleach is used – but this one is safe and formulated to be used on the brows.

It can also be used as a pretreatment to treat very coarse, resistant brow hair before a tint. These troublesome hairs don’t tint well, so a pre-bleach is a great way to ensure the cuticles are open, allowing the colour to take better.

If you have a client who wants to go for a stark contrast to their natural brow colour, the brows can first be bleached up to 3 shades lighter in 20 minutes, and then the tint can be applied straight after. This is particularly good if your client wants to go for a very dark shade or a more fashion-forward colour like bright blue or red.

Removing the pigment of the natural brow hairs creates a blank canvas to work on, giving you options that you wouldn’t usually have, so Blonde Brow is an essential product in your beauty kit.

Ruth Atkins * Important note: Refectocil Blonde Brow is for brow use only, not for lashes.

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Brow lightening can also be used to create a whole host of bold, contrasting brow looks and is particularly suited to clients who want a strong, vibrant red.

Finally, it’s also fabulous as a pre-treatment for clients with stubborn grey brow hair. They’ll fall in love with the results!

Lisa Stone

Charisse Kenion

WHY NOT CHECK OUT SOME OF OUR FACIAL COURSES? Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training/ beauty-courses/facial

At the Erdem SS25 show, the skin prep was much more innovative as models’ skin was treated to cryotherapy. Cold air at -40C was blown onto the skin for between 5-7 minutes to ensure inflammation was kept to a minimum and cheekbones were ultra sharp and defined. We predict that now is the perfect time to consider adding facials to your service menu and it’s also a good idea to include potential male clientele too.

Charisse Kenion

The perfect brow base

When working to harmonise hair and brow colour it can gently lighten the brow hair by 3 shades, creating lighter and warmer tones for dark brows, giving them a beautiful sun-kissed look. It’s perfect for clients during the summer when hair can naturally lighten, or if the hair is chemically lightened.

Charisse Kenion

Shutterstock

Brow bleaching, or brow lightening as I prefer to call it, is a very underestimated treatment that has so many advantages and benefits.

Charisse Kenion

SO FRESH, SO CLEAN

WINTER 2024 / 29

CAPITAL / BEAUTY

CAPITAL / BEAUTY

LASH TRENDS FOR THIS SEASON

LOOKING FORWARD

Lashes have become an additional accessory for the general public so let’s talk through the latest lash trends for winter and beyond.

Over at Harris Reed’s much-talked about SS25 show, it was all about doll makeup, and pinched lashes were the perfect finish. Reed’s show was inspired by 19th century French silhouettes with corsets and hip panniers galore, so to accentuate the aesthetic, lead makeup artist Sofia Tilbury, created heart-shaped lips and some eye-widening lashes.

Using several coats of mascara on real and false lashes, Tilbury then used tweezers to pinch the lashes together for a really spidery finish.

As with any trend, what goes up, must come down, and voluminous lashes have been replaced with an altogether more natural looking lash. That doesn’t mean clients don’t want length or more dense lashes though. They’re looking for a natural, fullerlooking lash that doesn’t scream out ‘extensions’ – think of it as a more minimal approach.

Sofia Tilbury/Instagram

SUPERNATURAL LASHES

At the Sinead Gorey show we saw lashes coated in electric blue mascara teamed with a matching eyeliner; the look was definitely eye opening and we predict lash tinting is going to be a lot more fashion forward next season.

Don’t forget to shop all your lash lifting and tinting supplies at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie today.

Charisse Kenion

First seen at the Ancuta Sarca show, makeup artist Bea Sweet created these impactful double stacked, intense lashes with a retro feel. Back in the 1960s lashes were often super dense and quite heavy but Sweet refreshed the look and lightened the lash load by focusing individuals at the outer corners. She also added some lash separation for a choppy feel and often left the lashes uneven for a spiky finish.

John William

Backstage at London Fashion Week we saw a stunning array of future lash trends and the first one to catch our eye was the 1960s influence.

One solution for clients who want something more natural has to be the newest trend for underlashing.

Underlashing, or applying the lashes beneath the lash line (as opposed to on top) gives a much more seamless and undetectable finish. For Salon System Educator Lisa Stone, they offer a multitude of options.

She says underlashes can be ‘mapped to quickly and easily achieve any kind of lash look or trend’ and that they are also an excellent solution for makeup professionals who have celebrity or bridal clients.

CLASSIC COMBOS

The classic lift and tint has seen a resurgence of love lately on social media, because again, clients are looking for more natural, longer-lasting lash solutions.

For clients who also want to work on their own lash growth while they’re wearing your handiwork, don’t forget there’s a wealth of lash serums out there, including Lash FX Grow Me Up Lash Serum, available at Capital now.

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Sofia Tilbury/Instagram

A lash lift (also known as a perm) and tint is brilliant for clients who want a fuss-free treatment, because there’s no glue, no maintenance and no need to apply mascara, for up to 8 weeks!

WINTER 2024 / 31

CAPITAL / SHOP

EDIT THE BEAUTY

It’s your last chance to stock up before the festive rush - don’t miss out!

DR PAW PAW X WICKED LIP BALM

SALON SYSTEM UNDERLASHES The Salon System Underlash system is here to help you update your lash services.

Offering a seamless blend, these lashes last up to 7 days and feature full and intense individual clusters for a truly bespoke finish. £5.50/€6.50 Want to know more about the underlashing trend?

Head to page 30 now.

ISTOCK

As the movie Wicked is set to take over your social media as well as cinema screens you’re definitely going to want Dr Paw Paw’s new Glimmer Lip Balm. Featuring the brand’s much-loved hydrating formula, this clear balm has a pretty pink shimmer for a healthy glow. £3.50/€4.00

SIENNA X SPRAY TAN SOLUTION With a gorgeous coconut scent, the Sienna X Spray Tan Solution comes in a range of options to help you cater to any tanning request, from light and natural to a deep, golden glow.

Infused with high quality hydrating ingredients, you’ll find tans last longer too. £47.95/€55.00 for 1lt

VOESH HEEL REPAIR DUO TATTI LASHES TATTI TINT

The New Christmas Collection

Transform lashes and brows with this easy to use tint. If you need to provide a custom shade for your client, all Tatti Tints are mixable. They’re also smudge-proof, waterproof and results last up to 6 weeks. £4.65/€5.40 for 15ml

It’s that time of year that tired feet often get neglected, but with this rejuvenating treat, there’s no excuse! Featuring the Solemate Heel Repair Balm and Moisturising Heel Socks infused with Jojoba oil and Olive oil, not only would this make a great add-on service, it could also be a thoughtful festive gift. £14.00

Shop all this and more at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie 3 2©/ The T H EManicure C A P I T ACompany L CUT 2024 | www.themanicurecompany.com

@the_manicure_company

WINTER 2024 / 33

CAPITAL / ADVICE

CAPITAL / ADVICE

6 TOP TIPS FOR A HEALTHY FESTIVE SEASON Deborah Maguire is a stylist, salon owner and trichologist with a specific focus on health and nutrition. Here she shares her advice on how to keep you and your team feeling healthy all season long.

Sadly, it’s not unusual to see stylists collapsed on their knees by Christmas Day and planning a Christmas dinner is the furthest thing from their mind. Luckily, I’ve got some top tips to manage the marathon of December.

SLAY THE SEASON

The festive season is often the busiest time of year for any hair or beauty professional. Everyone is booking in for last minute treatments so that they look and feel best for the Christmas holidays, and while that’s amazing for business; it can take its toll on you. Read on for our expert tips on how to avoid burnout and truly thrive this winter.

ELENA LAVAGNI, CO-OWNER AT NEVILLE’S SHARES HER THOUGHTS ON STAYING HEALTHY WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL As a salon owner it’s essential to maintain a positive work environment while delivering excellent service to clients.

Here are my top 3 tips to keep everyone happy and healthy.

#1

It’s crucial to understand each team member’s concerns, commitments, and personal circumstances during this busy period. Encourage regular discussions with the team well in advance – preferably months ahead – of the festive season.

This will allow you to gather insights on any potential challenges they might face, such as family commitments, personal health concerns, or other obligations. You can then use the information gathered from these discussions to create a fair and logical work schedule that takes into consideration the various aspects of each team member’s life.

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#2

Ensure the schedule balances the workload among all team members, avoiding overburdening any single person. Rotating shifts and offering flexibility can help accommodate personal commitments. Provide team members with their schedules well in advance, giving them ample time to make any necessary personal arrangements.

#3

Create an environment where team members feel comfortable sharing their concerns or requesting adjustments to their schedules. Also encourage regular breaks and emphasise the importance of healthy food to keep energy levels up during long shifts.

FIRST, PREP LIKE A BOSS

ANYTIME BREAKFAST

We all know what lies ahead of us; longer days and overtime, stressed clients, and stressed-out staff. So, it’s important to be prepared; to do this I focus my attention on prepping my meals for the week ahead, as often as I can. When meal prepping, it’s important to remember to include a variety of different plant foods to help keep our energy and gut microbes at an optimum level. I’ve found curries to be absolutely brilliant for this, as you can easily include your plant foods and can conveniently reheat them at work.

If meal prepping isn’t your thing or fresh food is no longer fresh nearer the end of the week, then think about making your breakfast as diverse as possible.

Overnight oats are a brilliant solution and can be made in a million different ways. I like to experiment with kefir, mixed fruits, peanut butter, yoghurt, grains, seeds (especially pumpkin), nuts, honey, and flaxseed and all you have to do is put them in a jar and leave them in the fridge. The next day you’ve got a nutritious breakfast ready to go.

If you prefer a more savoury breakfast, eggs, or tofu, combined with avocado on sourdough toast, is a quick, tasty alternative.

FIBRE FIRST! Ensuring your first meal is full of fibre, not only adds to the flavour but it will keep you fuller and energised for longer.

MODERATION IS KEY Personally, I love a Prosecco, but inevitably that decision affects my future decisions, and chocolate often follows.

TO SNACK OR NOT TO SNACK? Now that is the question! If your days are long or your lunch break is hours away it’s important to keep your energy levels up. The best way to do that is to choose healthy snacks. I’ve found that once I start on that sugary slope, I am doomed to make decisions that don’t really help my energy levels at all. It’s so easy to reach for comfort foods, and while they often taste amazing, they often don’t give us the protein and energy we really need to get through a full day’s work.

Nuts and seeds make the perfect snack, but for something more exciting, home-made protein balls are perfect. They will keep your fibre and protein levels up, which will not only stabilise your blood sugar levels, but also allow your body to use the energy instead of store it. Head to your favourite social media platform for some quick and simple recipes.

When I need to be at the top of my game during December, I try my best to not drink alcohol or eat chocolate because I know that during my Christmas time off I will definitely have my fill.

MOODS It’s so important to have a positive mindset, and with the lack of sunlight at this time of year it’s much harder to maintain. The temptation to burrow under the duvet is strong, but it’s important to maintain a routine that gets you up and out of bed, whatever day you’ve got ahead of you.

The best way to encourage that positive mindset is to sleep well, eat well, and hydrate your body. It’s not rocket science, and it’s not hard to implement. It’s just too easy as professionals to deprive ourselves of these essentials. By taking time out for you, you can continue to keep giving first class service to your clients, and you won’t be burned out by Boxing Day.

WINTER 2024 / 35

Advanced Repair: K18’s cutting-edge formula restores even the most damaged hair, making it look healthier and more vibrant.

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shield + smooth routine protection + routine anti-frisottis

Slay the Season with K18: The Ultimate Haircare Gift!

Make This Holiday Season Unforgettable by offering your clients the gift of gorgeous hair. The K18 Shield & Smooth Routine Kit is the ultimate stocking stuffer or luxury treat for a fresh start to the new year.

Why It’s a Holiday Must-Have: