Capital Hair & Beauty Spring Magazine 2019

SPRING 2019

3D LIPO

Why the celebs are queuing up for our latest service!

2019 What’s in store?

The Ones to Watch

WHO’S MAKING WAVES IN THE HAIR INDUSTRY?

FROM SOFT PINK NAILS TO CREAMY BLONDES, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GENTLE APPROACH...

FREE TO ALL CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY CUSTOMERS!

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CAPITAL NEWS What’s happening in our stores right now

BEAUTY UNDERGROUND

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09

TOOLS OF THE TR ADE

EDITOR'S

letter

C A PI TA L CON T E N T S

Welcome to our first issue for 2019!

Inside we're so excited to introduce you to a brand new, exclusive to Capital, professional service; 3D Lipo has become a massive celebrity hit, and you'll see why if you head to p38. Elsewhere, we're talking to three young hairdressers about what makes them tick and who inspires them (p21), and of course, we're talking trends! On p26 it's all about dreamy SS19 nails, and on p28, we're fully focused on hair cut, style and colour options. Speaking of trends - we're breaking down the huge trend of using Acids as part of our everyday skincare regime on p18; knowing your AHAs from your BHAs can be confusing, but we've covered all angles!

As always, if there's anything that you want to see in your Capital magazine, I'd love to know, so pop me an email at lrigby@capitalhb.co.uk with your suggestions.

Lily Rigby TO PURCHASE OR FIND INFORMATION ON OUR LATEST PRODUCTS VISIT WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK

We bring you the latest and greatest products

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28

It’s 2019, so we’re all about clean, modern styles

What’s hot – from the catwalk to the salon

HAIR TRENDS

GET THE LOOK

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BUSINESS FEATURE When it's time to pivot

38

SPOTLIGHT ON: 3D-Lipo

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42

A WEEK IN MY SHOES

SALON MAKEOVER

All the way from Australia, meet Nikki Porter of Rubi Hair!

Jimmy’s Chop Shop

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46

What you need in your hair and beauty kit right now

Think texture and colour...

So join us in Colormania.

Let’s make 2019 the most colorful year ever.

For inspiration visit www.goldwelleducation.plus

#GOLDWELLCOLORMANIA

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ONES TO WATCH Who’s next when it comes to colour and style?

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SS19 NAILS

It's all about healthy pinks and corals

Publisher: Charisse Kenion Ltd | info@charissekenion.com | charissekenion.com Designer: Sophie Middleton | sophiemiddleton.co.uk

TRACEY DEVINE FOR AFFINAGE

Hair: Richard Kavanagh at Rodney Wayne Photography: Steven Chee Creative Direction: Lachlan McPherson Instagram: @rodneywayneofficial

How stunning is this golden copper, geometric bob? It comes from Rodney Wayne's beautiful Cherry Blossom collection - all about creating a soft silhouette with subtle texture.

This is the year for pure color creativity – bold colors and stunning shades.

Forget the boring brunettes and lacklustre blondes – it’s time to give every client show-stopping hair color.

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FOCUS ON:

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You’re not alone! At Goldwell we believe in the power of color, but more importantly in the power of colorists like you!

THE COLLEC TIONS

TOP 10 TOOLS

Acids

ON THE COVER

ARE YOU COLOR OBSESSED?

NOTE: The views expressed in Capital Hair and Beauty magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Charisse Kenion Ltd does not accept any responsibility for the loss or damage of material submitted for publication. Reproduction of any material without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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NEW

KOLESTON PERFECT One unique colour solution that addresses three powerful trends to deliver the ultimate in client care.

1

COLOUR Even, pure colour results with natural depth and shine.

2

CONDITION ignificantly reduces hair damage, S colour after colour.*

3 INGREDIENT-CONSCIOUS

E+ colour molecule that reduces the risk M of developing an allergy to hair colour by up to 60 times.**

AVAILABLE NOW #AskForWella WellaUK

WellahairUK

www.Wella.co.uk

* Versus previous Koleston Perfect. Valid for Koleston Perfect ME+ with Pure Balance Technology. ** FOR PEOPLE NOT ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLOURANTS. Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe.

Always perform an allergy alert test 48h before each colouration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.co.uk.

If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand. /4

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CAPITAL

news

YOUR GUIDE TO WHAT'S HAPPENING IN-STORE AND WHAT'S NEX T...

CELEBRATING WITH 3D LIPO

BLONDME CONFIDENT

POWERFUL

INDIVIDUAL

ICONIC

1 bonding colour andcare expert for supreme blonde quality & safety.

Unsurpassed lifting and lightening performance – up to 9 levels.

Customisable solutions for unique blonde services.

On-trend looks celebrating absolute blonde perfection.

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Chloe Goodman Bobby Briah, Chloe Goodman and Roy Cowley

C A PI TA L NE WS

Later in this issue we’re giving you the lowdown on our latest treatment partner – 3D Lipo. It’s an amazing range of treatments that focus on fat removal, skin tightening and cellulite reduction that your customers will love! Opiah Cosmetics, Chloe Goodman’s new treatment clinic in Hove, is just one of the clinics in the UK that offers 3D Lipo, and Chloe recently celebrated the clinic’s launch with Love Island and Ex on the Beach stars in attendance, and a very yummy donut wall! We're so excited to be the exclusive UK wholesaler of 3D Lipo - read all about it on p38!

OPIAH, Hove

A NEW CONNECTION New Year, new expansion! We’re so happy to announce that we have four new additions to the Capital brand, with four Salon Connection stores, all based in Wales. Choose from Swansea, Neyland, Merthyr Tydfil or Cardiff to get all of your favourite brands under one roof at your new local Capital Hair and Beauty store.

CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY |

@CAPITALHAIR | CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUTY.CO.UK/INSPIRATION

WWW.CAPITALHAIR ANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK /6

www.schwarzkopfpro.com

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#getcolorblasted in an instant

TOOLS of the TRADE CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUT Y GOES ALL OUT TO BRING YOU THE L ATEST AND GREATEST PRODUC TS TO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS CLEAN AND CLEAR

Discover NEW #colorblaster

Strictly Professional’s Micellar Water Cleanser has been the answer to many a beauty therapists’ prayers! Super gentle for thorough, efficient removal of makeup, it’s also brilliant as a double cleansing step. Use after your favourite oil cleanse to remove all traces of dirt, or swipe on pre-facial to ensure your clients’ skin is clean and ready to be pampered. 500ml, £6.95

Update your colour status with caring washout toning conditioners for insta-trending looks that are sure to get you liked.

Choose from 8 filter-friendly shades:

CLASSIC

A styler that predicts your clients’ hair needs? Yes, it does exist! The new ghd Platinum+ SMART Styler recognises each section of hair and adapts the power to ensure the optimum temperature of 185°C is consistent across the two plates. A rounder barrel helps you create gorgeous curls and waves, as well as the perfect straight lengths with zero snag. £129

#getcolorblasted for up to 10 washes!

Clarendon

Willow

Lark

Valencia

Sierra

Crema

Mayfair

Dr Paw Paw’s known for creating some amazing do-it-all products, and now it’s focused on your hair needs too! The new It Does It All 7 in 1 Hair Treatment Styler reduces split ends and frizz, detangles, adds shine, gives heat protection and much more!

Think about all the space this could save on your shelf or in your kit bag… 150ml, £4.95

Juno

C A PI TA L E SSE N T I A L S

- Get shiny pastel to bold toning results - Make vibrant colour refresh stories - Neutralise those brassy tones

MULTI-TASKING

NO SHOW

Uppercut Deluxe’s Easy Hold is ideal for those gents who want all the texture and volume, minus any giveaway hints that they’re wearing anything in their hair.

Formulated as a creamy base with a natural, matte finish, it’s perfect for the textured styles over on page 30. With a woody tobacco scent and a hold factor of 2, it’s suitable for all hair types. 90g, £8.50

LIKE A KID IN A CANDY STORE… The Manicure Company’s got something special for Spring! The new Sweet Temptations Collection is all about sugar and spice, with a cotton candy blue, a mint choc and two gorgeous pinks in the form of Strawberries N' Cream and Bon Bons. There’s even a nod to Pantone’s Colour of the Year – Living Coral – in there, by way of the ultra-flattering Sherbet. £39.95

Follow us on: /8

indola.co.uk

auk instagram.com/indol

#Simply Smarter

TO FIND OUT MORE VISIT YOUR NEAREST CAPITAL STORE OR HEAD TO WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK TODAY! /9

H I S Osmo Extreme Volume Mega Styling Foam 245ml £5.30

C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON

“To recreate this look, start by giving hair the right texture. Prep with Osmo Extreme Volume Mega Styling Foam, which will give hair just the right amount of guts and hold to allow you to create this style,” says Ross.

C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON

“Next, set the hair on small rollers. Allow the hair to dry naturally in the rollers, rather than adding heat.

< /10

Jack Dean Pompadour Comb £1.75

<

Osmo Power Powder Texturising Dust 9g £6.35

<

<

We wanted to give you two fresh looks to kick off the year, so we’re starting with Ross Hume of Linton & Mac’s preppy men’s cut, followed

by Hair Dot Com’s beautiful modern braid.

GET the LOOK

Head-Gear Velcro Rollers 12 pack £1.99

“Once the curls are set, use Osmo Power Powder Texturising Dust, to give the roots that lift, while adding even more thickness to the hair. Crucially, this product will allow the style to retain the softness that really defines this look.

“Next, dress out the curls, using a wide tooth comb, before finishing with American Crew Defining Paste through the sides – this will add some hold and keep the look neat. It will also help to add some subtle shine-free definition, and give that all-important matte finish.”

< American Crew Tea Tree Defining Paste 85g £8.85

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< ghd Air Hair Dryer £75.00

Argan Plus+ Unique 10 Miracle Treatment 118ml £6.99

“To create this look, prep the hair with Redken Guts 10 and Redken All Soft Argan 6 to give the hair grip and shine. Blowdry the hair flat to the head, with a centre parting for a head-hugging silhouette.

Before banding at the nape of the neck, release some softness around the front hair line to keep a soft, editorial feel to the look.

Pull out as much or as little as you like to personalise the finished look.

<

“Now, using an elastic from your kit, tie the pony tight in at the nape of the neck, keeping the hair polished against the head.

If the hair isn’t so long, add extensions (or in this case, a full wig!) and grip to the newly banded area. Then, using a long length of elastic, wrap in an irregular criss-cross pattern tightly down the pony.

This will not only give great texture but will secure the wig or extension to your existing pony. Once you have banded your desired length of pony, knot the elastic to secure.

H E R S

<

Fanola Styling Tools Volume Up Root Spray 250ml £6.95

C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON

C A PI TA L INSPIR AT I ON

<

Next up, Hair Dot Com’s Craig Chapman explains how to create this gorgeous power pony…

Scunci 2mm Silicone Elastics 20pk £2.10

“Now pull the hair in-between each elastic to create an uber textured finish, perfect for the red carpet!”

< Goldwell StyleSign Just Smooth Diamond Gloss 150ml £7.05

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A WEEK in

my SHOES WE THOUGHT WE’D START 2019 WITH A PEEK INTO THE LIFE OF A SUPER BUSY, SUPER CREATIVE AND HAIR-OBSESSED HAIR DIREC TOR – ALL THE WAY FROM AUSTR ALIA! MEET AWARD-WINNING NIKKI PORTER… ABOUT NIKKI NAME: Nikki Porter LOCATION: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Alarm sounds at 5:50am and I have a massive day ahead so thought I’d get my mind right for the week and sneak in a 6:15am yoga class - bliss! I race home and get ready to get to Look Good Feel Better by 9am. I volunteer at these workshops for cancer patients, close by the salon in Malvern. We go through the 12 steps of skincare and makeup application and then headwear and wigs. Luckily my salon is right around the corner as I have a new qualified stylist due in at 1pm for a skills test. I grab lunch on the run and get to work. Sidenote, one stylist is in her final week of work before maternity leave for her first child! So, given the time of year, it hasn’t been ideal timing for me to find someone else, but I’m okay with the fact that we will be at capacity for the month with one less member on the floor!

The girl who’s come in for a skills test is ideal, but it’s a case of having my fingers crossed, as she has a few things to consider, including finding a new home if she’s to take the job. At 5pm I race to the casting call we’ve arranged with a new photographer for our upcoming collections. I’m coaching Tom White through his male submission and I will be shooting for Victorian Hairdresser of the Year. By the time I arrive there’s about 20 girls waiting for me - eek! We create some great looks and the prospect of my shoot being eight weeks away is becoming real but super exciting.

TUESDAY

Alarm at 5.50am again! I’m in the midst of a yoga challenge at my local studio – 28 classes in 28 days! This morning I’m being hardcore and doing a 6.15am flow and a 7.30am dynamic cardio boxing class. I race home, shower and get ready to get to work for a 10am start. Today I’ve got a colour, then foils, followed by two back-to-back haircuts, before I can grab a bite to eat, check in with my team and complete paper work, all ahead of my Rubi Hair business partners arriving for our bi-monthly directors meeting. This is where we catch-up on any issues, and we’re also entering business awards, so we check over the layout. I then head home to relax and send some model-related emails and organise the minutes for tomorrow’s staff meeting.

WEDNESDAY

YEARS IN BUSINESS: Three years

C A PI TA L C A RE E R S

C A PI TA L C A RE E R S

SALON: Rubi Hair Malvern

MONDAY

I pushed my alarm to 5:55am today. This is my big long day. Our team meeting at 9am is a great chance to address the team and iron out anything that’s going on. Also, I make sure to praise them for hitting targets, and we spend time workshopping ideas to get the best out of this busy period. Wednesdays are just me, on the floor, doing my thing with clients until 8-8:30pm.

Once I leave the salon I like to indulge in a glass of wine, a frozen dinner and an early bedtime.

HAIRDRESSING: 14 years INSTAGRAM: @nikkiporter_hair WEBSITE: rubihair.com

THURSDAY

Alarm sounds at 7am! Woohoo! It’s an easier morning of showering, getting dressed, cooking breakfast and getting to work. I have to organise pay roll and any commissions that need to be paid today, before my first client at 9am. Then it’s back to back clients, chatting, cutting, styling and colouring with a lunch break squeezed in. I finish at 6pm on Thursdays, which breaks up the late nights, so I race to a slow yoga class at 6:30pm. I get home to briefly see my housemate and we catch-up on the week.

FRIDAY

NIKKI’S ADVICE “Hard work pays off! Always stay true to who you are as a person and that will get you noticed. Always be available for opportunities - this doesn’t mean you have to say ‘yes’ to absolutely everything but be the person that people can rely on - take direction easily and be humble. ” /14

We have the Rubi Hair Christmas party tomorrow so I do a catch-up class today to allow for tomorrow – there’s a dynamic strength and tone class at 7:30am and I follow it with a meditation class. I grab a coffee on the way back to mine, put a load of washing on, vacuum, send some emails and storyboards for the shoot, get ready and get to work by 12pm! It’s another day with clients on the floor till 8pm. We all stay behind and wash each other’s hair for the annual party of the year! I race home for a quick bite to eat and get my fake tan on.

My dress arrived today at work too – just in time!

SATURDAY

I still work a full-time week on the floor as I really enjoy hairdressing at that level. My business partner, Michelle, is my rock and does all the back-end stuff. It’s a perfect partnership and there’s not a day that doesn’t go by where we’re not on the phone to each other; I’m super thankful for her. Tonight, all three salons will come together and we’ll celebrate our year with a cocktail on arrival, a sit down dinner, awards and then a DJ! We award Apprentice of the Year, Team Player of the Year, Stylist of the Year and our Kerastase-sponsored Retailer of the Year! It’s fantastic to see the other Rubi teams outside of work hours.

SUNDAY

I indulge in a decent lie-in, followed by brunch with my housemate. I like to keep my Sundays very low-key, with no hair-related things whatsoever. With the washing done, I watch some Netflix, get the groceries, do a meditation class at 4pm and have takeaway for dinner! /15

T OP 10

#1

HAIR & BEAUTY TOOLS

IT’S SPRING, WHICH MEANS IT’S PROBABLY TIME TO UPGR ADE YOUR KIT! HERE WE’VE SELEC TED THE CRÈME DE L A CRÈME OF OUR HAIR AND BEAUT Y TOOLS, ALL DESTINED TO TAKE YOUR WORK TO THE NEX T LEVEL THIS YEAR.

C A PI TA L E SSE N T I A L S

#2

DIVA ELITE STYLER

When time is of the essence, you need instant heat! Diva’s Elite Styler gives you complete styling control, with auto shut-off and a digital heat control. Why do we love it? Because its ceramic floating plates are infused with shin-enhancing Argan, Macadamia and Keratin oils. £79.99

WAHL 5 STAR MAGIC CLIP CORDLESS

#4

#7

For a much smoother cut, this cordless clipper allows you to adjust the taper and texture without changing blades – meaning you can provide an even smoother service. £92.99

FACE BOBBLE MAKE-UP BLENDER

Flawless skin is always in, and in 2019, you’ll want to be ready for every new beauty trend. This affordable makeup blender is perfect for blending highlighters, foundations, bb creams and much more. £2.95

#5

This promises gorgeous hair in half the time, and it really is true! Thanks to a powerful 2,100W motor and removable air filter, this professional hair dryer delivers super-fast results and zero frizz.

Compatible with the ghd Air Diffuser, it’s suitable for both left and right-handed users. £75

#3 BABYLISS PRO SPECTRUM STYLING WAND

JOEWELL TR OFFSET SCISSORS 6 INCH

There are scissors, and then there are works of art. Manufactured in Japan, these Joewell beauties are made from Supreme Stainless Alloy with a convex shape blade. The result? Ultra-powerful cutting. £433

#8

SALON SYSTEM MARVELBROW SLANTED TWEEZER

Ensure your brow clients keep you in that #browsonfleek category with this brilliant slanted tweezer. Precisiondesigned so you only remove what really needs to go! £6.95

#9

GHD AIR DRYER

LOOKS WAX KIT

If you’ve decided to add waxing to your services this year, this is a fabulous way to get things started. Offering fantastic value, the kit includes an wax heater, wax, pre and post-waxing products, spatulas and more. £59.95

When we say this is a regular sell-out, we aren’t exaggerating. This is a wonderful tool for creating those beautiful, romantic, natural waves – perfect for any spring bridal clients! £29.95

#6

I N F U S E D W I T H K E R AT I N FOR MAXIMUM SMOOTHNESS AND SHINE

LOOKS 36W LED LAMP Create stunning gel nails on the move with this lightweight and durable – not forgetting powerful – 36w lamp. £39.95

#10

HEAD JOG CERAMIC IONIC PINK RADIAL 80 BRUSH

This ergonomically designed brush makes blow-drying a breeze thanks to its ionic bristles. Great for clients with longer, thicker hair too! £3.95

ALSO AVAIL ABLE IN ROSE GOLD

WANT MORE? VISIT YOUR LOCAL CAPITAL HAIR AND BEAUT Y STORE OR HEAD TO WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK NOW /16

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C A PI TA L SK INC A RE

IF THE PREVIOUS YEAR HAS TAUGHT US ANY THING, IT’S THAT ACIDS HAVE BECOME A MA JOR BUZZWORD IN THE BEAUT Y INDUSTRY. WITH SO MANY OF THEM DOING SO MANY DIFFERENT THINGS, IT’S EASY TO BECOME OVERWHELMED. HERE’S OUR NO-NONSENSE GUIDE TO THE ONES MAKING THE BIGGEST IMPAC T ON SKIN.

THE BASICS Vitamin C is not made in the body, so it’s something that can only be taken in by the body, or applied topically. It’s huge news in the beauty community right now, because it literally helps form our tissues, bones, blood vessels and of course, skin. It’s also a powerful antioxidant, making it a winner in serums and creams that can be layered during the day or night. Soon after adding Vitamin C to a skincare regime, skin is brighter, more even and feels firmer.

CAPITAL BUY Pharmagel Eye Firmé Eye Gel. Give the delicate undereye area a firming Collagen boost while keeping it protected with soothing Allantoin and anti-inflammatory Echinacea. /18

UNSPLASH.COM

CAPITAL BUY BeautyPro Thermotherapy Warming Gold Foil Mask with Hyaluronic Acid & Q10. Use this when a major boost of hydration is needed. The self-warming properties of this 20-minute mask enable the ingredients to penetrate more easily into the skin, leaving it hydrated and smooth. Also, a very similar, man-friendly version is Barber Pro’s Skin Renewing Foil Mask.

BeautyPro Foil Mask £2.95

Our skin has a thin, protective layer on its surface, referred to as the acid mantle.

The pH level of our skin refers to how acidic or alkaline it is. On a scale of 1-14, with 1 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline, 7 would be considered neutral for your skin.

When it comes to acid-based products, they will be working at levels closer to 3 and 3.5, so it’s important to do your research.* * The EU is known for being much tighter on acids, Pharmagel Eye Firmé £17.00

so do be aware that products that meet pH levels more widely accepted in the US, might not be available here.

RETINOL (AKA VITAMIN A)

Retinol is what keeps skin looking youthful and plump and comes highly recommended by cosmetic doctors.

Put simply, if you were to recommend one addition to your clients’ skincare, it would be Retinol.

Increasing the production of collagen – the primary component of the body’s connective tissue – and elastin – the component that literally allows our skin to stretch and bounce – Retinol is also brilliant at fighting signs of ageing and sun damage. Known for being very fast-acting, it’s important to look at the strength of the Retinol in the products you’re recommending. It’s definitely something that will require a layer of moisture on top when applied overnight, as it can cause dramatic dryness all over the face, particularly in already dry areas.

Retinol Vitamin A CAPITAL BUY HOF Retinol Vitamin A Night Cream. It’s light, non-greasy and Night Cream £14.00 penetrates immediately. Or, add a few drops of HOF Retinol Anti-Aging Facial Oil to your existing moisturiser to boost its effectiveness.

No clue about the differences between Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)? Read on.

When it comes to ridding the skin of dead skin cells, AHAs do it all. They work to weaken the bonds that keep layers of dead skin attached and help new skin cells come to the surface. AHAs also have humectant properties, meaning they literally hold moisture to your skin. Over time, using AHAs will help to thicken the epidermis and increase collagen production. The only issue?

AHAs must only be used at night as they cause photo-sensitivity. SPF must be worn the morning after – well, all the time really!

The most common AHAs?

By Charisse Kenion

ASCORBIC ACID (AKA VITAMIN C)

Hyaluronic Acid molecules are able to carry 1,000 times their weight in water – which is why products containing the ‘miracle’ ingredient have bombarded the high street over the past five years. There are numerous Hyaluronic serums on the market, and they are most often used after cleansing, and before moisturising, so as to boost the moisturisers’ hydrating properties and keep skin softer and smoother for longer. Often described as a ‘smart’ nutrient, Hyaluronic Acid adjusts its moisture absorption rate based on humidity, resulting in perfectly balanced and hydrated skin, wherever you are.

GLYCOLIC ACID: Celebrity facialist Caroline Hirons calls Glycolic ‘a beast of an acid’ and it’s easy to understand why. The molecules are tiny, meaning the ingredient can penetrate far deeper – which also means it can cause more irritation if you overdo it. Glycolic Acid gets right into the pores, decongesting them, getting rid of dead skin cells and repairing the look of skin that has been affected by ageing and sun damage. However, Glycolic Acid isn’t always recommended when treating darker skins – instead you might be better working with Mandelic or Lactic Acid-based products.

LACTIC ACID: A milk-derived acid, and a bigger molecule, Lactic Acid is more gentle as it sits on the surface of the skin. It’s known for leaving skin feeling smoother, softer, refreshed and ready to absorb any products that follow. Great for those with rosacea or sensitive skin.

MANDELIC ACID: This is the one to recommend for those with acne because it’s anti-bacterial and anti-viral. It has the largest molecule of all the AHAs, meaning it’s ideal for using over a longer period.

C A PI TA L SK INC A RE

T H E AC I D TEST

HYALURONIC ACID

So, what’s the fuss with BHAs?

When it comes to skincare, if you see BHA on a product, it will be Salicylic Acid, something that has long been a go-to for those with problem skin, thanks to its ability to exfoliate without causing irritation, redness or dryness. It’s a great ingredient to use little and often, as its effects build up over time. While AHAs loosen the bonds that hold debris in your skin, BHAs actively penetrate the pores to remove whatever junk is there. In short, BHAs are often recommended for oily and acne-prone skin as they are oil-soluble, while AHAs are water-soluble and recommended for those with dry and sensitive skin. When it comes to applying either, they always come after cleansing and toning but before serums and moisturisers.

CAPITAL BUY Pharmagel Beta-C Dual Action Moisturiser. Perfect for normal/oily skin this is a luxe cream formulated with Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Vitamin C to erase and repair sun damage and signs of ageing.

Pharmagel Beta-C Dual Action £12.00

FOR A FULL RANGE OF SKINCARE STOCKED AT CAPITAL HAIR AND BEAUT Y VISIT CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK/BEAUT Y/SKINCARE /19

ROYALS HAIR ARTISTIC TEAM

ON E S TO WATCH C A PI TA L FU T U RE ICONS

MEET ELIE, KRISTA AND JOSEPH - THREE HAIRDRESSERS WITH THREE VERY DIFFERENT ST YLES, YET ALL FOCUSED ON MAKING CLIENTS FEEL AMAZING. READ ON TO FIND OUT WHO INSPIRES THEM AND WHAT THEY'RE PREDIC TING WHEN IT COMES TO CUTS AND COLOURS THIS YEAR.

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NAME Elie Kashi SOCIAL MEDIA @hairbyelie SALON Royals Hair, Sydney, Australia SALON SOCIAL MEDIA @royalshair

NAME Krista Ward SOCIAL MEDIA @Krista_ward86 SALON D & J Ambrose, London SALON SOCIAL MEDIA @djambrosehair

PICK THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? Classic, arty, tomboy.

WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH A CLIENT, IS YOUR APPROACH ONE THAT FOLLOWS YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE, OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE INDIVIDUAL’S FACE, WANTS, NEEDS ETC? It’s all about the client - their lifestyle, face shape and image.

PICK THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? Creative, blonde expert, transformative.

WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH A CLIENT, IS YOUR APPROACH ONE THAT FOLLOWS YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE, OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE INDIVIDUAL’S FACE, WANTS, NEEDS, ETC? I always try to merge the two. I take into consideration what my client wants and what suits her face shape, skin tone, the colour of her eyes, etc. However, I also like to have my personal style show through and I find that I’m more satisfied with my work that way. I prefer to have a degree of creative control while still giving my clients what they want; tailoring their hair to suit them and their lifestyle.

DO YOU HAVE A SIGNATURE LOOK? Yes – platinum white! The latest technology in colour allows me to take people blonder much faster and safer than ever before and transformations are my thing. They’re so much fun!

HOW DO YOU WANT CLIENTS TO FEEL WHEN THEY LEAVE YOUR CHAIR? Confident, refreshed and NEW! WHO INSPIRES YOU IN THE HAIR WORLD? My uncle (who taught me a great deal of what I know now) as well as my own team at Royals Hair. We’re always learning off each other and it’s a great way to keep growing and evolving.

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HOW DO YOU WANT CLIENTS TO FEEL WHEN THEY LEAVE YOUR CHAIR? Fabulous, sexy and happy!

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION OUTSIDE OF THE HAIR WORLD? The beach! In Australia, the beaches are amazing. Spending a few hours in the sun really opens my mind. I love zoning out at the beach and dreaming of hair or even just researching while I'm at the beach.

WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY? Knowing once my client leaves the chair

that her day, week, or even month are more positive. I love when they send a ‘thank you’ message or email afterwards – you can feel how happy they are with their new look.

FAVOURITE THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? Creativity and meeting new people.

I make so many new friends every year!

MOST ANNOYING THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? When a client comes back to the salon trying to fix her hair after she went elsewhere and ruined her hair. I get emotionally attached to my client’s hair and I don’t want to see it ruined.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE WHO WANTS TO BE WHERE YOU ARE? DON’T give up, work hard and have patience.

Nothing worth having comes easily.

GIVE US YOUR FORECAST FOR SS19 The top trend forecast of SS19 would be soft, subtle, natural balayage with honey blonde tones – and white platinum all-over colour of course. If that’s not a trend I’ll try to make it one!

WHO INSPIRES YOU IN THE HAIR WORLD? Darren Ambrose, Jayson Gray (Global Creative Artist for Wella Professionals) and Bruce Masefield (former UK Creative Director at Sassoon).

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION OUTSIDE OF THE HAIR WORLD? Life experiences and people.

WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY? Meeting and getting to know new people.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE WHO WANTS TO BE WHERE YOU ARE? Work hard, learn as much as you can - then practice!

GIVE US YOUR FORECAST FOR SS19 I see Balayage, colour and midi-lengths haircuts still being on-trend for SS19, however with a more ‘done’ feel, using babylights and more formed waves. I also think vibrant colours will still be popular – particularly Pantone’s prediction of ‘Living Coral’, which translates so well as a hair colour! Mullets for women are also going to be back (yes, really!) but with more modern layering and softness around the perimeter.

C A PI TA L FU T U RE ICONS

C A PI TA L FU T U RE ICONS

DO YOU HAVE A SIGNATURE LOOK? Easy, beautiful, wearable hair.

FAVOURITE THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? Making someone feel incredible, while being able to be artistic at the same time.

MOST ANNOYING THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? When people don’t take my advice and ask for something that’s not achievable. /23

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION OUTSIDE OF THE HAIR WORLD? I am a total Instagram binger!

I can spend hours scrolling on it, looking at everything from celebrities and their latest hair changes to other hairdressers’ work. I’m always keeping my finger on the pulse to see what the latest trend is going to be!

NAME Joseph I'Anson SOCIAL MEDIA @josephianson SALON Mark Leeson, Nottingham SALON SOCIAL MEDIA @markleesonsalons

WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY? My work is a massive part of my life and I am so passionate about my job; getting up every day and being able to play with people’s hair makes me happy! I love being able to travel the world with Mark Leeson, doing shows and photo shoots, it makes my job even more exciting.

C A PI TA L FU T U RE ICONS

WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH A CLIENT, IS YOUR APPROACH ONE THAT FOLLOWS YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE, OR IS IT MORE ABOUT THE INDIVIDUAL’S FACE, WANTS, NEEDS ETC? When working with clients, I always like to take into account their wants and needs along with their face shape, but I always give my touch of glamour to everything I do!

DO YOU HAVE A SIGNATURE LOOK? My signature look is super sexy, sophisticated glamour! I’m all about feminine hair, whether it’s beach waves or a short, little pixie crop.

I love for all the hair I create to have that sexy feel.

MOST ANNOYING THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? I’m so in love with the industry that I can’t even think of anything that annoys me!

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE WHO WANTS TO BE WHERE YOU ARE? You’ve got be prepared to work hard and never pass up an opportunity. Work for a salon that has the ability for you to grow within the industry and to make each and every hair cut or colour count!

C A PI TA L FU T U RE ICONS

PICK THREE WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR OWN PERSONAL STYLE? Sparkly, fun, casual.

FAVOURITE THING ABOUT YOUR INDUSTRY? I love how creative everyone is and the

passion people put into their work. I love to see others’ ideas and where they get their inspiration from, I find it all so fascinating.

GIVE US YOUR FORECAST FOR SS19 I believe it’s going to be all about being blonde. Forget the ashes and the greys, it going to be about the soft beiges and the pretty creams - that sexy Malibu beach babe hair!

ROYALS HAIR ARTISTIC TEAM

HOW DO YOU WANT CLIENTS TO FEEL WHEN THEY LEAVE YOUR CHAIR? I want my clients to feel relaxed and excited to have their hair transformed. My aim is to make each and every one of my clients feel as though they have been listened to and had their needs met and to leave the salon feeling confident and beautiful!

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WHO INSPIRES YOU IN THE HAIR WORLD? I have always been inspired by my mentor, Mark Leeson (2014 British Hairdresser of the Year). He has taught me everything I know. I am fascinated when I watch him work on photo shoots and in the salon and am still learning from Mark to this day. His passion and hard work in the industry is what drives me. /25

Q61

Salon System experts Karen Louise and Julie -Anne comment on Spring 2019 nails…

JULIE-ANNE LARIVIÈRE

KAREN LOUISE

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Helena Linksy, of Yorkshire-based husband and wife team Q61, reveals their top nail trends for SS19, as seen at Fashion Week.

NUDE ART

Q61

GILT TRIP

Fashion duo Rodarte kicked off the foil-effect trend with their SS19 models wearing various metallic shades of gold, silver and rose gold. Get the look by carefully applying thin layers of gold-leaf foil, or for a quicker route, try a varnish with a metal-look finish.

For a similarly mineralised look you could opt for a chrome-effect in a shade of icy light blue!

Q61

Perfect for fresh-looking nails, GELLUX has launched the brilliant Cover Pink Base Coat.

It adds strength and covers imperfections with a gorgeous natural, pink finish. It also helps to correct and conceal damaged, ridged or discoloured natural nail beds.

Use it under colour or with a GELLUX Top Coat for a naturally nude finish.

PRINTS CHARMING

This season’s nail art is defined by limiting patterns to the tip of the nail, while keeping the base clear and clean. At Kith’s SS19 show, models’ nails were painted to feature a stunning graphic Greek key pattern on the tip of the nail. Paired with a clear, nude base it looked surprisingly subtle and impossibly chic. For a sportier take on the patterned tip trend, try the striped look showcased at Kith x Tommy Hilfiger, where classic white tips were shunned in favour of a sporty-looking two-toned red and navy stripe, against a milky white base. Experiment by combining shades of red, white and blue, or use any combination of three colours that complement each other, painting one shade all over the base, and using the two remaining varnishes to paint a double stripe across the tips. If stripes aren’t your thing, try a mix of graphic shapes, from squares to triangles, over a nude base.

Nail art doesn’t always need to be colourful or obvious; this season we’re seeing a super subtle take on graphic nail art achieved using natural shades, and the effect is just the right amount of eye-catching. At House of Holland, thin white stripes adorned nude bases, while at Monse, tiny graphic shapes were painted in shiny shades of nude and white. At Oscar De La Renta, there was a beautiful negative space manicure with a milky nude shade across the length of the nail. It’s a great look for anyone afraid that nail art isn’t quite appropriate for the office.

ANIMAL INSTINCT

Backstage at Christian Siriano’s show, nails were given a ‘twisted zebra’ print – a modern take on animal print – designed to clash beautifully with the loud leopard print of the designer’s clothes. At Opening Ceremony, nails were painted matte gold before an intricate design of black, leopard-like spots, were hand-painted with an ultra-fine brush and glossy black polish. What makes this animal print modern and fresh is that it’s metallic, rather than onedimensional, making the finished look ultra-glam, uber-glossy and totally OTT! Our top tip for trying this look is to use a toothpick instead of a brush, to nail the finer details.

Q61

IT LOOKS LIKE WE’RE IN FOR A SUPER PRET T Y SPRING! AS WELL AS PANTONE’S COLOUR OF THE YEAR – LIVING COR AL – BEING ONE OF THE MOST UNIVERSALLY WEAR ABLE SHADES, THESE NAIL EXPERTS SAY WE’LL ALSO BE LOVING SOFT PINK, COFFEE AND PEACH.

SALON SYSTEM

C A PI TA L N A IL S

Soft + GENTLE

Spring is all about soft shades, including neutral and pastel tones. Think soft caramels, corals, coffees and peaches – shades that match every outfit and look great on all skin tones. Soft pinks, bubble-gum pinks and cloudy pinks will all form the perfect canvas to simple, pretty nails. These shades are ultra-feminine yet very low-key, as you can still see some of the nail through the polish. For more adventurous clients, think metallic, glitter and high-shine greens, blues and blacks. Two-toned nails are another favourite for the season, as they allow you to experiment with two bright shades.

Rebekah Young, KAM Hair and Body Spa

NEW FROM SALON SYSTEM’S GELLUX RANGE!

C A PI TA L N A IL S

Spring 2019 will see the return of soft, muted tones with a minimalistic feel. Understated tones and a natural palette will be popular.

Paired with a shorter length than the previous statement coffin shape, the short square style is something we’ll be seeing more of. Nail art won’t be as called-for during the spring, as the focus will really be on beautiful, simple shades and colours that complement your clients’ skin tone.

Kirsty Rodziewicz, Perfectly Posh Salon

For those who don’t want to go down the colourful road, give them glossy wellgroomed bare nails or throw in a high gloss black for a chic, sophisticated look.

When it comes to techniques, one of my favourite trends is back – the outlined manicure! Using a mixture of colours, or one colour base polish, use a liner brush to outline the nail with black or any other colour you fancy.

Q61

SALON SYSTEM

When it comes to the Spring colours, a new kind of neutral is on its way. Colours like peach, coral, caramel and coffee will take centre stage as opposed to the usual nude shades. What’s great is that these shades tend to suit most skin tones!

We’re going to see a return to bold and creative nail art. I think we will see a lot more hand-drawn nail art with lots of animal prints, French manicures with a twist and bejewelled nails. Bold nail art with colours that will really pop against each other, combined with high shine. It will be a case of anything goes for beautiful nails.

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HOOKER & YOUNG

“We expect to see a lot of copper tones and strawberry blondes with lots of dimension and shine. For brunettes who want to update their hair colour but don’t want to fully commit to an all-over rich, red/copper hue, copper highlights are great for depth, movement and warmth.

“Bold, bright hair colours will also be popular. Think sunshine yellows, petrol blues, fiery oranges and fuchsia pinks. It’s all about pushing the boundaries with colour. If your client is feeling really adventurous, team two bright hair colours like blue and green, to give the hair a stunning mermaid-like transformation.”

CARLY PRICE, MUSE OF LONDON

the year of shine!

WHILE HAIR TRENDS LIKE GL ASS HAIR COME AND GO, ONE THING REMAINS – YOUR CLIENTS WANT TO LOOK AND FEEL THEIR ABSOLUTE BEST! HERE SOME OF OUR FAVES DISCUSS THEIR COLOUR AND ST YLE PREDIC TIONS…

COLOUR

“We can expect to see a very definite shift in the tones used across the board, from blondes to brunettes. We’re moving towards warmer tones like honey and caramel as opposed to icy, ashy tones. Expensivelooking hair that’s well-groomed, healthy and shiny is super on-trend.” Victoria Gifford, SESH Hairdressing “Bespoke colour is ultimately where it is at, with companies racing to make colour interchangeable for client to client. Clients want hair that’s more manageable, and easy to style, but with personality and individuality. But, they’re more and more aware of what’s ethical, so be prepared for more questions on everything we use and do.” Tracey Devine-Smith /28

“I think we will see people testing the water with pinks and deep, intense blues. I love mixing a dash of Crazy Color Sapphire and Capri Blue with conditioner to give a pop of colour that has less commitment. These days, clients have a much stronger sense of their own individual style, and experimenting with vivid colours on their hair – perhaps thanks to celebrities such as the Kardashian clan – is much more acceptable.”

BEAUTY UNDERGROUND

2019,

“For brunettes, think chocolate with high-shine and inky blacks – the glossier the better! Glossing services are great for keeping hair colour shiny at all times, as well as colour-enhancing products that can be recommended for use at home until their next appointment.”

Karen Thomson, Scottish Hairdresser of the Year

TOKYO COLLECTION SPRING 2019

PATRICK MARROW, HIVE MCR

LINTON & MAC

C A PI TA L T RE NDS

“Blondes are smokier in 2019, moving away from vanilla and platinum to more mushroom-like, grey-blonde tones. Clients with blonde hair can simply ask their hairstylist for an ashier toner but if muted isn’t their thing, then warm-toned beige and honey shades are also an option.

“Smoky, grungy pink remains popular going into 2019. There are no boundaries when it comes to this colour trend, as it can be matched to everyone and their skin type. This shade is so versatile and flexible for clients, as it’s easy to put in and take out of the hair and creates different tones as it fades. It’s also a great low maintenance option for clients as they can opt for a colour update on a weekly basis.

“Of course, Pantone’s Colour of the Year, Living Coral, is set to be huge! There’s a strong movement towards bright colours, particularly coral, which gives a stunning warm, almost rose gold-like hue, with a golden undertone. This shade can be bright and bold or diluted and soft and suits most skin tones. The shade resembles a summer sunset and underwater coral reefs and is the perfect colour for clients who want to update their look with a saturated colour that’s not too overpowering, but definitely stands out.”

Suzie McGill and Dylan Brittain, Rainbow Room

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TRACEY DEVINE FOR AFFINAGE

CUTS & STYLES “The ‘French girl’ bob is one of my favourite hairstyles this year; a one-length bob that hits between the cheekbone and jawline and has an angular, choppier finish for more dimension. This hairstyle works particularly well teamed with a heavy fringe for a effortlessly chic finish. Bowl cuts will also be in, and have become more modern; the look is very ‘piece-y’, almost like it has been cut into a pixie crop. The key to this hairstyle is lots of short layers, for texture.”

USED BY PROFESSIONALS SINCE 1919

KAREN THOMSON, SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

“We’re seeing a shift in how experimental we are with our hair and braiding is no exception; we’re moving away from the classic French plait and embracing new, cool techniques.” Victoria Gifford, SESH Hairdressing “Messy, textured hair looks great with all hair lengths and types, however, I particularly like this look teamed with a shoulder length cut. This look is easy for clients to achieve by simply sleeping in braids overnight or by using texturising sprays such as salt sprays to mess the hair up. I also love using hot irons to create soft ‘undone’ waves for a romantic finish. Choppy, heavy, mid-length cuts and bobs will also be popular for hair that craves dimension and a sexy, structured finish. These styles are perfect for those with thin hair as they give body and volume.”

“Never before has the cut and conditioning of your clients’ hair been more important. Super sleek and cut to bespoke perfection, glass hair is the way to go this season. It’s also the perfect opportunity to lose the ubiquitous balayage. Use high sheen serums, sprays and silicone finishing products, but avoid grease and pomades that can leave hair looking more oily than sleek.” Gary Halliday, Andrew Jose

DISCONNECTED MID SKIN FADE Ruffians Shoreditch’s master of the fade, Richard Tucker, shares the tools and techniques he uses to achieve one of his signature styles.

CREATED USING THE CORDLESS SENIOR, CORDLESS DETAILER & FINALEE

step 5

Carly Price, Muse of London

“For 2019 it’s all about edgy crops and cool girl bobs – super stylish haircuts that can be tailored to all face shapes. Bobs are one of my favourite haircuts, whether they’re effortless and texturised, for an undone finish, or straight, smooth and blunt with a sleek finish. Edgy crops are also on-trend and are great for clients who want to accentuate their features and show off their cheekbones! Simply add some texturising or salt spray and you’re good to go.

RODNEY WAYNE

C A PI TA L T RE NDS

“Incredibly long hair that pushes boundaries is set to be at the forefront of hair. Extensions will be key this year for length and for adding plush thickness to hair, to give it that full, plump effect. In terms of styling I think the path of naturally-textured hair will continue throughout 2019. We’re moving away from super straight, ironed-out hair and towards embracing natural curls and kinks.” Jay Birmingham

“In my opinion, the ‘glass hair’ trend is a true fad – we’ve always loved and wanted shine! I believe the future is about texture and movement, and I think we will see a huge resurgence of this. Not necessarily the perm but much more movement.”

Tracey Devine-Smith

Place a 0.5 guard with the lever open on the Wahl Cordless Senior, take the line up another centimetre. Go back on the previous line with the half guard closed to blend, angling the clipper to use two to three teeth for a more precise finish.

facebook: wahlprofessionaluk instagram: wahlprouk

step 1

step 6 Use the Wahl Cordless Senior with the taper closed and a grade 2 to remove the bulk around the sides and back of the head. Portion the hair on top of the head with sectioning clips to keep the sides clear and create the canvas for the fade.

step 7

step 2

“For those with longer hair, super long locks are also in. Be sure to encourage your long-haired clients in for regular conditioning treatments to keep the hair in the best condition, and regular trims to avoid split ends.” NEIL BARTON

Use a 1.5 guard with the lever closed, flicking out with a c-shape to continue blending up into the sides.

Going back to clipper over comb, finish off the fade by polishing and removing bulk.

Use the clippers over a comb to blend the number 2 into the weight of the hair on top.

MEN IN 2019 “Men’s hair has undergone a bit of an evolution, so we can expect so see styles that skim through the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s but with a modern-day edge. Hair will be stronger and mostly mid-length, working with lots of movement and strong shapes. A return in longer length can be expected and will contrast with the traditional fade.

Longer lengths with slightly disconnected pieces to encourage texture and movement

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are another look to take note of. The epitome of ‘70s style, the shag is an iconic symbol of this decade that transfers really well into 2019. The laidback, deliberately messy vibe of this look really interests me and the use of layering and varied styling is a perfect pairing. For this style, the cut is key. Layers are required to frame the face and allow that ‘shaggy’ texture. As you’re cutting the hair, it’s important to visualise the end result and imagine how the client will go on to style it.

Low maintenance and effortlessly understated, this look is easy to keep up with and requires little maintenance.

Texture and that ‘undone’ look are also set to be popular during 2019. Add texture with products like sea salt and thermal styling for longer hair. For shorter lengths, use a clay wax to add a textured edge. Clays and wax help you get inside the hair and create innovative shapes with defined texture for an on-trend look.” Ross Charles

step 8

step 3 Create the first guideline with the Wahl Cordless Detailer, then use the Wahl Finale finishing tool to create the skin fade, blending out the rest underneath.

Taking fine sections throughout the top, clean up the ends with the Wahl Cordless Senior.

Use a diffuser to soften the top and style.

step 9

step 4 Use the Wahl Cordless Detailer with the lever open (0.5) taking the line of the fade up by around a centimetre.

Use the Wahl Cordless Detailer to edge up the front to enhance the fade work.

Instagram: Ruffians

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find out more at wahl.co.uk

STUART BROCKWAY

PERFECT FOR SALONS

FANOL A

We spoke with Stuart Brockway of Stuart Brockway Hair Design, to find out which Fanola products he uses over and over again at his Southampton salon.

Your new go-to

WHAT'S THE FANOLA PRODUCT THAT YOU FIND YOURSELF USING OVER AND OVER AGAIN? STUART: The two Fanola products I love are the No Yellow and No Orange Shampoos but the one I use repeatedly has to be the No Orange!

I use it to neutralise unwanted warmth in brunette colours, but I also like to use it to create a gorgeous, ashy look for very light blondes.

PROMOT ION A L FE AT U RE

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A NEW WET LINE OR ST YLING ADDITION FOR YOUR SALON OR MOBILE BEAUT Y BUSINESS, NOW IS THE PERFEC T TIME TO CHECK OUT FANOL A. WHETHER YOU NEED TO BANISH UNWANTED YELLOW TONES OR GIVE YOUR CLIENT THE CURLS THEY CR AVE, THIS TRULY IS A BR AND THAT OFFERS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE – PLUS IT’S SUPER AFFORDABLE. /32

Creating on-trend styles while you’re on the move all comes down to the right tools. But who wants to carry tons of products around on a daily basis? Fanola’s new styling range provides the perfect styling foundation for you to create any style. Clients asking for a big blow-out? Try Fanola’s Liss Style Smoothing Fluid and Volume Up Root Spray with a dose of Extra Strong Hairspray. Want to create romantic curls? Layer up Thermo Force Protective Fixing Spray with Easy Curl Define Cream and play away!

For a full update on Fanola styling visit www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/brands/fanola or visit our Instagram page: @capitalhair

STUART BROCKWAY

CHARISSEKENION.COM

PERFECT FOR FREELANCERS

WHAT'S YOUR STYLE FORECAST FOR SPRING? STUART: I can see very light blondes with pastel shades reemerging, offering lots of different, subtle hues. I think style has changed so much over the last 10 years; we now live in such a fashionconscious world where anything goes, giving people the freedom to experiment with colour in a less conformist way. My clients have been bringing in images of 1970s fringes, very Brigitte Bardot-style looks, so I can see this is going to become popular by default. I think 2019 will be a great year for stylists to create imaginative and inventive looks that will keep their clients looking fabulous!

PROMOT ION A L FE AT U RE

Use it after rinsing either highlights or scalp bleach applications, once you’ve shampooed first with a colour shampoo, then apply Fanola No Orange and leave it to work for up to five minutes – then condition as usual. I sometimes use this as a stand-alone toner, applied straight after rinsing a pre-lightener on hair that has been lifted to a base 10. I’ll apply it with a tint brush to the lightened areas and leave for up five minutes.

@stuartbrockway Stuart Brockway Hair Design

READY TO TRY FANOLA IN YOUR SALON OR MOBILE BUSINESS? VISIT YOUR NEAREST CAPITAL HAIR AND BEAUT Y STORE TODAY OR HEAD TO WWW.CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK

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C A PI TA L E X PE R T S

WHEN IT’S

TIME TO PIVOT

IT’S NEVER TOO L ATE TO MAKE CHANGES TO HELP YOUR C AREER OR BUSINESS THRIVE, OR SOMETIMES JUS T SURVIVE. HERE THREE HAIR INDUSTRY VETERANS SHARE THEIR INSIGHTS INTO RECOGNISING WHEN AND WHAT NEEDS TO CHANGE. /34

SIMON HILL, OWNER OF SESH HAIRDRESSING After around five years in business I knew something had to change and I made the decision to bring a business coach on board. I knew I needed someone to guide me and assist with this aspect of the business. I was immersed in hairdressing and loved the creative side of things, but I would have been unable to tell you what our weekly break-even was, or what percentage of our turnover went towards stock.

“Control Gel gives you amazing workability. It’s great to sculpt with and ideal for quick treatments for the busy tech. It files like a dream and with less dust in the air, it’s a winner!”

– Jessica Marks, IBD International Elite Educator.

When I brought Alan Durney on board to help with this it was a pivotal moment for my business. He educated me on how to run a business and provided me with the tools to implement and maintain a successful business model, whilst also running a salon – a skill I hadn’t yet mastered.

I believe it is crucial to understand your strengths and your weaknesses and if there is an area you know you need help with, don’t be afraid to voice that. With Alan’s support I quickly learned how to put in simple procedures and steps to create the fruitful business I have now – this was a gamechanger for my business in the best possible way. /35

C A PI TA L E X PE R T S

#1 NOT SURE ON WHAT DIRECTION TO TAKE IN YOUR CAREER...

Ongoing training is imperative, not only for ensuring you’re up to date with your hairdressing education, but in keeping you motivated in your career. If you’re feeling unsure of which direction to take, or are feeling uninspired and demotivated, it might be worth investing in some additional training or attending a further education course.

Don’t worry if you can’t afford additional training: speak to your employer about the opportunities available to you. A good employer will understand the benefits of investing in the education of their workforce and will have a commitment to providing CPD to his or her staff, so discuss your training options and educational opportunities and find out what your employer is happy to invest in.

If you’re feeling uninspired or lacking in a particular area of hairdressing, do some research and look for courses that will bring you up-to-date with the latest innovations and trends. If your employer doesn’t seem keen, look for training that will complement their brand, that can improve their salon, and that will benefit yours (and their) clients, and remind them of the value this will add to their business. When choosing a course, keep an eye on what is happening in the industry, and remember that variety is the spice of life.

Be sure to check out our extensive array of training available - from cuts to colour and style! capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training

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#2 HAVING TO MAKE URGENT SAVINGS AND CAN'T DECIDE BETWEEN STAFF OR OTHER EXPENSES? In running a salon business there are four main costs: wages; rents and rates; stock; and utilities. Typically these costs will account for 75 percent and above of the salon’s turnover. These are also the costs that need cutting if you want to substantially lower your overheads. Rents and rates are generally fixed, so you can’t reduce those, however if you shop around you may be able to save annually on your utilities.

If you’re looking to cut back on expenditure in order to make immediate savings, wages is an area where money can be saved, although ideally, impacting on your staff should be a final resort. Investing in your team – both financially, and by showing how much you value them – is crucial to the growth of your business in the long-term. If all your team are working to capacity there’s not much you can do to cut wages costs, however if there are team members who aren’t, and who you feel may not in the future, then you need to ask yourself if you need them.

Also look at how you could cut back on stock costs. For an immediate reduction in costs looks at extra expenses: laundry, flowers, magazines and refreshments are all areas where you can immediately benefit from a reduction in expenditure, without it being noticed by your clients.. #3 READY TO EXPAND BUT NOT SURE HOW TO START...

Expanding an existing business can be both daunting and expensive, and this can often be a barrier to salon owners who don’t know where to begin. Firstly, consider your reasons for expansion, to decide whether you are financially justified. Perhaps you’ve identified a gap in the market for a certain style of salon, or have seen a demand for adding extra services, such as beauty, to your service menu. Before you move forward you need to conduct thorough market research, to work out whether what you are hoping to achieve

KAREN THOMSON, OWNER OF KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA AND SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Since opening 27 years ago, the KAM salon has grown and grown. It started off solely providing clients with hair services before I decided to offer beauty services. I knew that everyone tends to spends their lives rushing around and I wanted the salon to be a place where clients could come in, relax and have their hair done and also give them the opportunity to completely switch off and enjoy some amazing treatments. KAM clients love that they can come in for all their hair and beauty services in one location

UNSPLASH.COM

Steve Rowbottom, Director at Westrow salon group, gives advice on three common business decisions

will be profitable and successful, or whether it is just a personal ambition that might not actually reap any financial benefits.

There are various ways to expand a business – from moving to a bigger premises, to expanding your business offerings. Finance is usually the biggest barrier to growing a business, so consider your options. Securing the money to expand your own salon can be very difficult, as most banks are reluctant to lend. This is particularly true for fledgling businesses, so you may need to consider alternative ways to raise the funds, or alternative ways to grow your business that don’t involve a huge initial outlay. If you do borrow money – whether it’s from the bank, or from a personal investor – it’s important to ensure you don’t over stretch yourself, as making repayments can be a huge burden.

If you borrow from family, be realistic about your repayments and don’t over-promise and under-deliver on any agreements.

The Amy G Nail Art Collection Celebrity nail artist and Scratch magazine front cover of the year 2017 winner Amy G has launched a range of advanced yet easy to use nail art products which can be purchased both in selected stores and online

by The Edge Nail & Beauty

NAIL COURSES NOW AVAILABLE

The other difficulty is that landlords won’t give leases to people without previous business experience, as it’s a high risk, so often moving to a larger premises can be difficult. As an alternative to moving premises, consider a re-fit or refurb of your existing salon. A good way to save money on your initial outlay when changing premises or refurbishing an existing salon is to lease or finance your furniture, so you don’t have to buy everything outright.

Did you know that we offer finance options on furniture?

Visit capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/furniture

and they know that they can trust in our standard of work.

When the opportunity arose to purchase the premises next-door I decided it was the perfect time to expand the salon. The new expansion area of the salon will be even more luxurious, offering the most on-trend hair and beauty services. It will contain a blow-dry bar, brow bar and a makeup bar – a fantastic area for clients to get glammed up and ready for the weekend. This part of the salon will also feature a disabled bathroom and beauty room, which I’ve always wanted to have in the salon – it’s really important to improve when and where you can, and it’s really important for us to be able to cater to our disabled clientele.

Brushes | Powders | Flakes | Jewels | Sequins | Angel Papers | Platinum Gels

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SO, WHAT DOES 3D LIPO OFFER? Treatments include:

INCH LOSS (Cavitation)

3D-LIPO

Shaping PERFECTION WHAT IS 3D LIPO ALL ABOUT? The aim when creating 3D-lipo, was to develop a multi-technology machine, aiming to give the best possible patient outcomes whilst making the technology affordable for both patient and Clinic. The philosophy of 3D-lipo is about treating the ‘whole’ problem,

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by adopting a three-dimensional approach to treating fat removal, tightening skin and improving cellulite, hence the name of the company. No body is the same, therefore there is no one fix that will suit them all.

3D-lipo offers a multi-technology platform that enables clinics to offer prescriptive treatment plans for clients, by offering the ability to layer and combine technologies to nonsurgically target fat reduction, reduce cellulite and tighten skin.

Thus far, 3D-lipo has achieved awards for Best Treatment, Best British Based Manufacturer, and Best Equipment Supplier in the Prestigious Aesthetic Awards, as well as actively being endorsed by numerous celebrities, doctors and surgeons. It’s now available in over

3D-Cryofreeze specifically targets fat cells. By lowering the temperature to -6 degrees it pinpoints the content of the fat cells, causing them to crystalize. No other structures are affected by this process. The remaining content of the fat cells is then disposed of naturally through the body’s lymphatic system.

SKIN TIGHTENING (3D-Radio Frequency)

3D-Body RF technology is a fantastic treatment for both skin tightening and cellulite reduction. The 3D-Body RF energy selectively increases the temperature of the fat cells, by doing so simultaneously in deep and superficial layers of fat. After the treatment and release of liquid fat, the fat cells shrink in size, and skin is restored closer to its original form, reducing or eliminating the appearance of cellulite.

CELLULITE & SKIN TIGHTENING (3D-shockwave)

FOR CELLULITE: Sound waves stimulate the microcirculation within the fat layer, increasing the metabolic function of the area and increasing cellular membrane permeability. Lymphatic movement and increased blood supply remove these waste products from the body.

FOR SKIN TIGHTENING: Sound waves stimulate blood and

Wow, 3D Lipo is unreal. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

PATSY KENSIT

800 clinics in the UK as well as having a vast network of distributors in Pakistan, Dubai, Germany, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia and many more.

IS THIS A SERVICE ANYONE WHO OWNS A SALON CAN PERFORM OR DO THEY NEED A SPECIFIC QUALIFICATION? WILL THEY RECEIVE TRAINING IN HOW TO USE THE EQUIPMENT? 3D-lipo does not require a cosmetic doctor to carry out the treatment, and can be performed by a Level 3 NVQ therapist or above. Full training is provided as part of the equipment package, which includes a training course held at 3D-lipo HQ, covering all theory and practical elements of the machine and the individual technologies.

EXCLUSIVE TO CAPITAL IN THE UK

You won’t find this award-winning treatment anywhere else; Capital Hair & Beauty is the exclusive wholesaler of 3D-lipo equipment.

“This salon prides itself on providing the newest treatments to its clients. Last year the salon introduced 3D-lipo, which almost tripled the salon’s target taking in just eight weeks” SAKS HAIR & BEAUTY

HIGHLY PROFITABLE

With 3D-lipo you can earn up to £70k in profit in one year, doing just two treatments of each technology per week, yielding a fantastic return on investment.

lymphatic circulation within the area. They also stimulate the connective tissue and septa mobility, giving the skin a firmer tone and reducing the dimples within the skin.

WHO LOVES 3D LIPO? A firm favourite with celebrities such as Coleen Rooney, Gemma Collins and Amy Childs – who says that 3D Lipo helped her go down a whole dress size – 3D-Lipo has featured in numerous articles in recent years, rapidly becoming the most popular and fastest selling body treatment in the UK!

FINANCE OPTIONS AVAILABLE PAY NOTHING FOR 3 MONTHS!* Capital offers affordable finance options on 3D-lipo equipment, with devices starting from just £482 per month!*

Ask us about our finance solutions – it’s a great way to spread the cost, with no deposit and quick and easy approval! *Based on 5 year term available only for 3D Ultimate Machine Package at £22,500 plus VAT and subject to acceptance.

Rates acceptance and 3 Month payment free period may vary dependant on personal circumstances. Apply at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/furniture/ financing/3d-lipo-finance

WANT TO KNOW MORE? VISIT CAPITALHAIRANDBEAUT Y.CO.UK/BRANDS/3D-LIPO/3D-LIPO-ULTIMATE

Hi £1 Fu F 2, ac 50 ial 0 M o f i nc a c h p a lu d i n ck ed e w ag a o e! s p rth ar t

WE’RE SO EXCITED TO BE THE EXCLUSIVE WHOLESALER FOR CELEBRITY-POPULAR 3D LIPO! AS MORE OF YOUR CLIENTS COME TO YOU LOOKING FOR SOLUTIONS TO HELP THEM SHAPE UP AND TRIM DOWN, WE THINK IT’S ARRIVED AT EXACTLY THE RIGHT TIME.

FAT FREEZING- TARGETED FAT REMOVAL (Cryolipolysis)

C A PI TA L SE RV ICE S

C A PI TA L SE RV ICE S

The innovative, non-invasive alternative to liposuction now available at Capital!

During the 3D-cavitation treatment, the membranes of the fat cells are disrupted. The fat cell content, primarily comprised of triglycerides, is dispersed into the fluid between the cells and then transported through the vascular and lymphatic systems to the liver.

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®

SWEET TEMPTATIONS

• 2200W • Ionic System - generates negative ions to reduce frizz & static • 3 heat & 2 speed settings • Includes silencer grille & 2x precision styling concentrators

COLLECTION

LEMON DRI ZZL E

BONS BON

MINT CHOC

CO T

WBERRIES N’C STRA REA M

RBET SHE

Y AND NC TO

Pastels have never been so sweet!

ELITE STYLERS • Argan Oil infused, floating ceramic plates for long lasting sleekness & shine or Macadamia, Argan Oil & Keratin infused ceramic plates for an ultra smooth & shiny finish • 110ºC to 230ºC • Digital Variable Heat • Auto shut-off after 60 minutes • Heat ready indicator • Worldwide voltage • Silicon heat proof mat • 3m salon swivel cord /40

Available January 23rd Online & In Stores. ©2019 The Manicure Company - All Rights Reserved. Unit 656 IDA Extension Waterford Ireland X91W622 Email: Info@themanicurecompany.com / 4 1

IS THIS YOUR FIRST SALON? No we had a salon at another location in Crawley before moving to The Boulevard.

WHAT WAS YOUR AIM WHEN IT CAME TO THE LOOK OF THE SALON? We wanted to have a warm, welcoming salon with a members club feel to it.

CHOP, CHOP!

WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU FACED WITH THE REVAMP? As the salon was self-funded it was obviously a challenge to make our vision a reality, whilst keeping within a small agreed budget.

Once we had committed to the refit, we then had further challenges keeping to a time scale whilst continuing to trade. Being a small business it was essential that we continued to meet our clients’ needs and maintain an income.

DID YOU HAVE A DEFINITE BUDGET IN MIND? DID YOU STICK TO IT? Yes, we did, however once you commit to work there is always something that 'crops up' and consequently takes you beyond your agreed budget!

HOW DID THE CAPITAL TEAM HELP YOU MAKE YOUR VISION A REALITY? Once we decided on an idea we then started to hunt around for the right furniture for our salon. We visited several different places as well as having a go at online shopping!

The best thing we did was to walk into Capital in Crawley. We were guided through ideas, styles and furniture before the team delivered a clear plan for us to move forward with. We wanted the salon to look and feel open – more spacious than the crowded set-up that we had at the time. The drawings were then sent to us within a very timely manner and we loved what we saw!

C A PI TA L IN T E R I OR S

C A PI TA L IN T E R I OR S

DID YOU HAVE A CLEAR IDEA OF THE ACTUAL LOOK, COLOUR SCHEME, ETC? Our vision for the salon was definitely a wood and brick style. We spent some time researching this particular look.

TOP TIP FOR SOMEONE WANTING TO REVAMP THEIR SALON? Make sure you seek professional guidance with the design. Although we knew what we wanted, actually putting it together would have proven much harder without the professional opinions of Capital and REM. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CLIENTS’ REACTION TO THE LOOK/STYLE? They love it – we love it!

To find out more about transforming your own salon, visit your nearest Capital store, or visit www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/ furniture now

NEW YEAR, NEW SALON! OPEN SINCE DECEMBER 2010, TONI DIXON OF JIMMY’S CHOP SHOP FELT IT WAS TIME FOR A CHANGE, SO THEY CAME TO CAPITAL . /42

SALON Jimmy's Chop Shop LOCATION Crawley

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E R U FUT POP 1

To prep for styling, apply 1-2 pumps of Ego Boost™ to damp hair. Then apply 1 pump of Small Talk™ throughout the hair for volume.

Comb through for even distribution.

3

Step into SPRING /44

WITH TIGI

Blowdry using the nozzle attachment. Working in sections, hold the hair at the ends, apply heat to the middle and fold up to create a lived-in texture.

MODEL: VIOLET STYLIST: THOMAS OSBORN

2

Rough dry the hair using fingers to eliminate excess moisture. Then smooth and twist sections around a round brush whilst blowdrying to create shape.

4

Spray Headrush™ throughout the hair for separation and extra shine.

PRODUCTS USED: Ego Boost™ Split End Mender Small Talk™ Volumizing Cream Headrush™ Shine Spray Watch the Step by Step Video: Search bedheadbytigi on YouTube /45

C A PI TA L COLLEC T I ONS

Dean Bradwell at Pop From black and white to blindingly bright colour! As you’ve already read earlier in the magazine, bold colour is in for 2019, and what a way to play! We love the anime-style colours and shapes in this mix and match collection from Dean, and can’t wait to see what’s next…

HAIR Dean Bradwell at Pop PHOTOGRAPHY John Rawson STYLING Marie McLeod/Magdalena Jacobs MAKEUP Lan Grealis

C A PI C ATAPILTA COLLEC L BE AUTTI ONS Y

COLLECTIONS

WE'RE KICKING OFF THE NEW YEAR WITH T WO VERY DIFFERENT COLLEC TIONS; ONE'S ALL ABOUT TEX TURE WHILE THE OTHER IS FOCUSED ON EXPLORING COLOUR WITHOUT BOUNDARIES.

Tracey Devine for Affinage

We fell in love these romantic looks from one of our faves. Tracey explains the mood of this beautiful collection: “Twilight Texture is a collection of highly textured looks that focus on manipulating the natural beauty of the hair, to give a raw finish.

Each image is dark, seductive and mysterious. Hair is less polished than previous seasons and full of texture – a key trend for 2019.”

HAIR Tracey Devine-Smith PHOTOGRAPHY Richard Miles STYLING Desiree Lederer MAKEUP Maddie Austin

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C CA A PP II T TA A LL S ST TO OR RE E F F II

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