UHB24 - STUDY PACK

Salon and legal requirements

Services, products and pricing

Make a table to record the following:

1. all of the styling services provided by your salon

2. for each service, describe its features

3. specify the benefits of each service.

You can make this table either manually or by using a computer.

Note:

Remember the definition of a feature is:

• Description of the product

• Cost of product

• How long the product will last

• Method of application

The definition of a benefit is:

• How the product will enhance the hair/style/colour of the hair or end result of style outcomes.

Make a list of all of the styling products that are available in your salon.

1. give brief instructions for the use of each product

2. identify the type of hair that would benefit from using it

3. specify the cost of those products that are sold as retail items

4. specify the cost for these products if they are used as part of the service. For example, if your salon makes a charge for styling mousse or lotion.

Identifying the facial shape of the client is critical when deciding which hairstyle would suit him/her.

Remember that you must lift the hair away from the face before you can complete this exercise. (You cannot identify the shape of the face if there is, for example, a heavy fringe in the way).

Using some basic rules you can identify the shape of the face:

1. Compare the length of the face to the width of the face

The length of the face may be longer than the width of the face, or it may be the same length.

2. Check the shape of the jaw line

The jaw line may be angular, or it may be gently curved, or rounded.

Work with a partner to identify the shape of your faces. Change partners so that you have more practice.

Note your results here:

Name Shape of face

Hairstyles and Facial Shapes

Produce a collection of style plates to show understanding of styles that are suitable for a female client with:

• a wide face (round)

• a narrow face (long)

• a square face (may be wide or narrow)

• a triangular face (wide at the forehead or at the chin)

• a low forehead

• a high forehead

• protruding ears

The style plates should include styles for long hair and for short hair, some with a fringe and some without a fringe.

Try to include women from different ethnic backgrounds. For example, from European, Asian and African Caribbean backgrounds.

Examples of fine textured, medium textured and coarse textured hair that are straight, wavy and curly should be gathered and, using the style plates already collected, should be matched to hairstyles suitable for each texture.

Part 1

Create a log of any abnormal hair, skin or scalp conditions that you encounter during the time that you are working towards the NVQ/SVQ or other qualification.

Please design a table or chart that allows you to log:

• details of the abnormality

• how the abnormality is caused

• how you dealt with the situation

• if you had to refer to someone more senior.

You may encounter these abnormal conditions while in the workplace or in a Realistic Working Environment within the training and assessment centre.

Part 2

Gather samples of hair to demonstrate your understanding of the following tests:

• porosity – state how the test is carried out and provide a sample of hair that is normal and one that shows signs of increased porosity

• elasticity – state how the test is carried out and provide a sample of hair that is normal and one that shows signs of poor elasticity

• incompatibility – state how the test is carried out and provide a sample of hair that required an incompatibility test

• Colour test – provide a sample of the hair prior to the pre-colour test and a sample of the finished result.

Effective Communication - (1 of 2) G7.3.1

The following diagrams illustrate various styles of body language. Identify what sort of message the body language illustrated gives to clients.

The Data Protection Act

Any organisation that keeps information on record about people (staff or clients) must:

• register with the Data Protection Registrar

• ensure that all information is accurate and up-to-date

• provide access to the person’s own record if requested.

The Data Protection Act was introduced to protect people from the possible results of inaccurate or out of date information being held on them – this can affect amongst other things, a person’s credit rating, medical treatments or employment opportunities.

Anyone can ask to see their record and it is the responsibility of the organisation to provide access to it but no one has the right to see the records relating to another person.

Give an example of what might happen if the wrong information about a person’s employment history is entered onto the record.

What may happen if you allow someone to see confidential information about another person?

Salon rules of confidentiality, their importance and what might happen if confidentiality is not observed

All salons have a responsibility to their clients and to their staff to maintain confidentiality relating to their personal details – for example, address, telephone number or salary. The salon also needs to ensure that details of the services provided to individual clients remain private as well as the information that clients give to hairdressers during consultation. If confidentiality rules are broken it will result in loss of clients and loss of business to the salon. In turn, this will result in loss of jobs for hairdressers.

The consequences of breaking the confidentiality rules vary from salon to salon unless the Data Protection Act is contravened. If this happens the person whose details have been revealed can take legal action. This can result in high fines.

It is likely that a clause will be included in staff Contracts of Employment to ensure that they know not to reveal any information about clients or their colleagues and that they understand the consequences of breaking the rules.

Legal responsibilities for describing the features and benefits of products and services (page 1 of 2)

The Sale of Goods Act and some parts of the Consumer Protection Act state that goods sold in the salon must be ‘of satisfactory quality’ and that customers have the right to know what they are buying. If the goods have been misrepresented, ie, if the sales person has not told the full truth about them, then the customer is entitled to compensation. The Supply of Goods and Services Act covers not only goods but also services and this Act states that services must be provided ‘with reasonable care and skill’.

You must be aware that the goods that are sold in salons include the products that we, as hairdressers use. For example, for colouring, styling, perming or relaxing. Because these goods are used directly on the hair and scalp we have an even greater responsibility to take all reasonable precautions against the product causing harm to the client.

Clients have the right to know what you propose to do to their hair and what products you plan to put onto it. They must be given enough information to be able to make a judgement as to whether or not they want the process to proceed. You must ensure that you state in advance the features and the benefits of the products and services that you intend to provide. This is usually done during the initial consultation with the client, and can continue throughout the service or treatment.

Remember, that the features of the products may appeal to some clients, but not to others. For example, a temporary colour will only last for one shampoo. This may be good for some clients. However, to a client who requires a longer lasting colour, this feature would not be very appealing.

The Trades Description Act requires that all advertising claims attached to products (this can be on the packaging or on display posters) must be accurate. This mainly affects manufacturers because they usually provide the packaging and advertising materials but if a client has a valid complaint the salon will be held legally responsible. In this case, the salon must then pursue a claim against the manufacturer.

It is in your own interests to describe products and services accurately in order that the client can make informed decisions about proceeding with services.

In addition you must ensure that the client does not have expectations that cannot be fulfilled. This would result in the client being disappointed and the salon reputation being damaged.

The services and products available for use in your salon

It is your responsibility to learn about the products that are available for use in your salon. You should learn how to use them by reading and understanding the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are still unsure, you must ask a more senior colleague for advice and guidance.

One of the best ways of learning about products is to use them on your own hair. This allows you to experience their benefits or disadvantages. It is not possible to use all the different types of products – some will be unsuitable for your hair type or condition, but by finding out about them you will be better able to advise clients.

To be able to provide a high standard of hairdressing services you must learn and practise as much as possible all of the procedures that your job includes. Develop your skills and knowledge about all of the services that you provide to clients.

How do you learn about new products and procedures in your salon?

What suggestions can you make to improve the way your salon helps you to learn about new products and procedures?

Discuss your suggestions and those of your group with your trainer.

This handout covers:

• Salon procedures and manufacturers' instructions in relation to conducting tests

• How and when tests are carried out on the hair

• The importance of doing tests and the potential consequences of failing to do so

The tests that you must know about are as follows:

• skin test

• elasticity test

• porosity test

• incompatibility test

• strand test

• perm development test

• pre-colouring test.

You must learn about each test:

• when to do it

• how to do it

• why it should be done

• the expected results

• the possible consequences of failing to test.

Your trainer will give you an information sheet about tests and testing. You must learn all of the details on this sheet.

Other than causing damage to the client’s hair or skin, what else may happen if you carry out a process without doing the recommended test and the result is not as required?

.1.3b

GH11

Handout

Consequences of not testing

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Expected results

Claim for compensation

Hair stretches and returns to original length

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Claim for compensation

Hair feels either smooth if in good condition or rough if in poor condition

How done

Salon and Legal Requirements –Hair Tests

Stretch hairs between fingers/thumbs

Run fingers down hair from points to roots

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Claim for compensation

Liquid fizzes, bubbles, changes colour, heats up if metallic salts are present

Immerse hair in ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide

Why done

To check condition of the cortex

To check condition of the cuticle

To check for presence of metallic salts

Allergic reaction, possible anaphylactic shock

Claim for compensation

No reaction. If skin does react it will be: itchy, red, sore, weeping. Do not colour if this happens

Clean a small area of skin behind the ear or crook of the elbow, apply small amount of product. Check after 24 –48 hours

To find out if the client is allergic to the product

Incorrect colour or bleach shade

Claim for compensation

Colour has reached desired result or colour may need further development

Remove product from strand of hair, check colour development

To check colour or bleach development

Under or over processed perm

Good, firm S shape if perm is ready

Claim for compensation

Loosen rod, gently push back hair at roots, look for S shape. Repeat with other rods

Incorrect colour result

Suitable colour result

Take small cutting of hair, apply proposed colourant, develop and check result

To check perm development

To check effect of colourant on hair

When done

Before chemical treatment or as part of consultation process

Before chemical treatment or as part of consultation process

Before chemical treatment

Before colouring hair

During colour or bleach development

During perm development

Before colouring treatment

Test

Elasticity test

Porosity test

Incompatibility test

Skin test

Strand test

Perm development test

Colour test

Your salon’s pricing structure and how to calculate the likely charge for services (page 1 of 2)

Each salon has its own pricing structure. Before a salon owner decides how much to charge for a specific job she/he must take many factors into account.

For example, the cost of:

• premises

• staff

• stock

• utilities (water, electricity, gas)

• replacements and renewals

• miscellaneous expenses

• repairs and decoration.

Some salons structure their prices according to the experience of their stylists, or make a higher charge to have work done by the more popular staff, while others have a flat rate for all stylists.

Many salons make a reduced charge for unqualified staff to help them gain experience while they are working towards their qualification. This special rate is usually offered during less busy periods at the start of the week but it may apply only on training evenings.

Most salons display their charges quite clearly on a price list and this is usually placed close to the reception area so that clients can see the cost of the treatments and the level of charge for stylists.

When calculating the likely cost of a job you must take a variety of details into account:

• the stylist and her/his level of charges

• any extra time needed to carry out the treatment or service

• any extra products needed

• specialism of the job ie, the expertise required by the hairdresser

• extra work to be done. For example, if regrowth is too long for a normal application and needs a double application of tint

• available pricing concessions.

When asked the price of a treatment or service you must not commit either the salon or the stylist to a specific charge if you are unsure.

When calculating the costs ensure that you list everything that is to be done, taking any possible additional charges (eg, extra products or extra time) into account. Then check with the stylist to clarify the details of the work before quoting a price. Do not confirm the price with the client until you have done this.

If you under quote the salon will not make a profit, but if you over quote you may lose a client.

Factors that affect your legal responsibilities

(page 1 of 2)

There are various Acts and Regulations that govern the way you must act and your responsibilities in law relating to the service you provide, the materials you use and the way in which you use them.

The following general guidance applies not only to employers but also to employees and learners.

The Health & Safety at Work Act

• this is the great ‘enabling’ Act from which much subsequent legislation has sprung

The Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations

• these Regulations require all at work to help maintain a safe and healthy working environment

The Manual Handling Regulations

• these Regulations place upon all at work the duty to minimise the risks from lifting and handling objects

The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations

• these Regulations impose upon the employer the duty to select equipment for use at work that is properly constructed, suitable for the purpose and kept in good repair. Employers must also ensure that all who use the equipment have been adequately trained

The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations

• these confirm the requirement for employers to provide suitable and sufficient

protective clothing/equipment and for all employees to use it when required

The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH)

• these Regulations require all at work to store, handle, use and dispose of substances which may provide a hazard to health or safety in accordance with manufacturers’ instructions

The Electricity at Work Regulations

• employers are required to maintain electrical equipment in safe condition and employees are required to report any faulty electrical equipment in the workplace

Reporting of Injuries, Disease and Dangerous Occurrences Regulations

• your salon is required to report injuries, disease and dangerous occurrences. You must report to the relevant person any injuries or dangerous occurrences at work. You may also be required to report any potentially infectious conditions of which you become aware

The Supply of Goods and Services Act

• section 13 of this Act is the main clause that affects hairdressers – it says that all services must be provided with reasonable care and skill

The Trades Description Act

• this Act requires that the descriptions that are displayed with any product that you sell are true. This mainly affects the advertising that manufacturers attach to the products – the labelling, etc.

• the way that hairdressers in the salon are affected is mainly due to the common law of misrepresentation – you must describe the features and benefits of a product accurately. You must not make claims that it can or will do something that it cannot or will not do

The Consumer Protection Act

• this Act is designed to protect customers from unsafe consumer goods. There is a clause in this Act that is duplicated in the Sale of Goods Act that states that goods sold to customers must be of a satisfactory quality.

Whose responsibility is it to use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)?

Who is responsible for maintaining a healthy and safe working environment?

How the following factors can limit or affect services and products that can be used or offered to clients and why it is important to identify them.

• head and face shape

• lifestyle

• hair growth patterns

• adverse hair

• skin and scalp conditions

• incompatibility of previous services and products used

It is important to identify factors that may limit the services and products that may be used. on clients so that you can:

• ensure the suitability of the hair and scalp for the service that is to follow

• ensure that the most suitable techniques are used to create the desired look

• ensure that the most suitable products, tools and equipment are used.

Head and face shape

If the client chooses a style that is unsuitable for the shape of their head or face then it is your responsibility to offer a more suitable alternative. Use a style book to advise the client and to let him/her see what may be suitable for them, but remember to remain tactful at all times.

Lifestyle

It is important to match the hairstyle to the client’s lifestyle – if she/he is very busy with only a limited amount of time to spend on their hair then give them a simple, easy to manage shape. If their work requires that they look professional at all times then she/he may want a style that, although simple, is classic but needs regular attention from a stylist.

The client may have a job that requires them to wear a hat or other headgear – they may be a nurse, a fire fighter, a police worker or food preparation worker. You must take this fact into account when designing, suggesting or agreeing a hairstyle.

Hair growth patterns

The growth patterns of the hair can make or break a hairstyle – if you choose a full, short fringe for a client whose front hairline has a cowlick it will not lie properly and the client will have difficulty in making it look right.

If the neckline grows to the centre or out to one or both sides you must give the client a style that is long enough to camouflage it or short enough that it does not affect the style.

One of the most difficult growth patterns to deal with is a double crown – a true double crown makes the hair stand straight out from the head if it is cut short, so you must leave it long enough to prevent this.

Incompatibility of previous services and products used

It may be that the client’s hair has been cut too short for what they now want or that there are already too many chemical treatments on the hair to allow you to do another one.

The client may have had a curly perm on her African Caribbean hair and she may now want to have her hair relaxed – this should not be done.

If you can see or feel, or if the client tells you that there has been another product used on the hair, and you are not entirely sure what it is, or if you suspect the presence of metallic salts you must carry out an incompatibility test. Your further decisions for treatments and services must be based on the result of this test.

Adverse hair, skin or scalp conditions

Some hair conditions may prevent the use of certain products. For example, if the hair is very dry it would be unwise to use any chemical product on it as this would increase the dryness.

Most adverse conditions relate to the scalp. You must not try to diagnose any skin or scalp condition – this is the job of a medical expert. However, there are some conditions that are quite common and easily recognised. You need to be able to identify those that should be reported to the relevant person and those that allow hair treatments to be done in the salon.

A suspected infection can be recognised by:

• open, weeping skin

• red, inflamed skin or scalp

• presence of a rash.

A suspected infestation can be recognised by:

• itchy skin or scalp

• redness

• parasite or eggs visible

• presence of a rash.

Discuss the following with your group members and your trainer:

A client has a very long, sharp nose and she asks for a style that has a centre parting and is dressed smooth and close to her face at either side, would you agree the style?

If not, what kind of shape would you recommend?

The growth cycle of hair - (1 of 2)

Hair grows, ceases to grow, falls out, and renews itself on a continual basis. If this growth pattern ever stops, or is temporarily halted, the hair will not replace itself and the client will go bald.

Most human hair grows continually from around 1_ years to up to 7 years. You may have noticed that some people cannot grow their hair long while others can grow their hair very long. This is because they have an unusually long growing stage in the growth.

There are three stages in the growth cycle:

Anagen

This is the main growing stage when the germinal matrix and the papilla are working hard to produce hair cells. It can last from a few months to a few years.

Catagen

This is when the hair stops growing and the hair bulb gradually separates from the papilla and shrinks away from it upwards inside the follicle.

Telogen

This is the resting stage when no growth occurs. The follicle shrinks and fully separates from the papilla. This stage does not usually last very long, from a few hours up to around four months. However, if it does not come to an end then baldness results.

The human hair growth cycle is individual to each hair – they reach different stages at different times so that there is a continuous renewal and replacement of old hairs.

The general factors that contribute to healthy hair

The main factors that ensure healthy, shining hair are:

Health

If you are healthy your skin and hair will show this fact. A key factor in ensuring good health is good diet and enough exercise. A balanced diet consisting of ample fresh fruit and vegetables, sufficient protein and carbohydrates and plenty of clean water will go a long way to good health.

If you take regular exercise it helps to maintain a good blood supply and this is what carries nutrients to the hair. If the body is suffering from a disease or disorder this is reflected in the condition of the hair, it becomes limp and unmanageable.

Environment

Your surroundings have an impact on how healthy your hair looks and feels. If you live in an area where there is a lot of aerial pollution your hair will become coated with these impurities and will need to be cleansed and conditioned on a daily basis.

If you live close to the sea then salt in the air will have the same effect.

Some areas of the country have soft water and others have hard water. This has a strong influence on your hair and on the cleansers and conditioners that are most suitable for use on it.

Chemical

Every time you apply a chemical onto hair some damage is done to it. Certain chemicals are more damaging than others. Of the common hairdressing chemicals, tint is least damaging followed by mild perm lotion going up to strong perm lotion then onto bleach and finally to straighteners/relaxers for resistant hair.

How many of these factors affect the condition of your own hair?

The basic structure of hair

Human hair has three distinct parts:

The cuticle

This is the protective outer coating of the hair. It is the part that you can feel and if it becomes damaged it feels rough so the hair feels dry.

The cuticle is made up of layers of cells that overlap like tiles on a roof. Some hair can have as many as eleven layers of cuticle cells while other hair has less.

If the cuticle has many layers or if it is tightly packed then the hair may be resistant because it may be difficult for chemicals such as colours or relaxers to get underneath the cuticle and into the cortex to do their work. Hair that has damage to the cuticle, or has cuticle that is missing will be porous.

The cuticle is colourless but it is translucent; this means that it lets some light through so you can see the cortex.

The cortex

This is the largest and main part of the hair, the place where all the chemical changes occur.

It is underneath the cuticle and the natural colour pigments (which can be seen through the translucent cuticle) are found in the cortex. The granules of colour pigment are known as melanin.

The cortex consists of long chains of cells that form in a spiral into fibres. These fibres spiral together into fibre bundles and groups of these bundles form the hair.

The fibre bundles are held together inside the cortex by different types of bonds –the weak salt and hydrogen bonds, (these are broken by water or heat) and the very strong disulphide bonds that can only be broken by chemicals such as perm lotion or relaxer.

The medulla

This part of the hair is not important so far as hairdressing is concerned. It has no effect on any hairdressing processes and is not always present in the hair. Some hair, when examined under a microscope, shows the medulla in patches – present at some points, absent at others.

The basic structure of skin - (1 of 2)

There are two main layers in the skin:

• the epidermis – this is the surface layer, the one that we can see and feel

• the dermis – this is the deep layer that has a blood and nerve supply and where the hair follicle lies.

The area beneath the dermis is called the subcutaneous layer and this is where the skin stores fat that gives us smooth curves rather than sharp angles.

As well as having a good blood and nerve supply, the skin has various appendages and most of these, although they lie in the dermis, are down growths of the epidermis. The main appendages are:

• the follicles – hairs grows through these

• the dermal papilla - all cell growth and cell division of hair occurs here

• the sebaceous glands – these secrete oil called sebum that protects us against bacteria because it is slightly acidic, it also lubricates and waterproofs the skin

• the sudoriferous (sweat) glands – these excrete waste in the form of sweat and when sweat evaporates this cools the body

• the arrector pili muscles – these are attached to the hair follicles and, when we are cold they contract, this pulls the hair upright, makes goose pimples and traps warm air around the body to help keep us warm

The skin is one of the biggest organs of the body and has four main functions:

• it protects us from strong sunlight and bacteria

• there are nerves in the skin that give us sensation – the sense of touch

• glands in the skin get rid of some waste and others make oil to waterproof us

• it helps to control body temperature by the evaporation of sweat to cool us and by trapping air around us to keep us warm

The natural pigment of the skin and hair is called melanin and is produced by cells called melanocytes.

The basic structure of skin - (2 of 2)

The characteristics of different hair types and textures

There are three hair types:

• African Caribbean

• Asian

• Caucasian (European)

African Caribbean hair is usually very tightly curled and often very dark in colour. It is easily damaged and all treatments, especially chemical treatments, must be done with care.

The shape of the hair, when looked at in cross-section, is almost kidney shaped.

The colour is usually dark to medium brown.

Asian hair tends to be straight and is sometimes quite lank. When a crosssection is examined the shape of the hair is round. This type of hair varies in colour from very dark to medium brown. It is often very thick and strong. If cut very short it sometimes stands straight out from the head.

Caucasian hair can be straight, wavy or curly. It varies in colour from very dark brown to very light blonde. It is oval in shape when inspected under a microscope.

Hair texture:

Hair can be described as fine, medium or coarse. This means that each hair is fine, medium or thick – the distance around the hair, its circumference, defines its texture.

If a hair has a large circumference measurement it is considered to be coarse. If it has a small circumference measurement it is fine textured.

Density:

The density of hair is how many hairs are on the one head, so a fine textured head may contain many more hairs than a coarse textured head.

The importance of effective communication to the salon’s business

There are two reasons for a breakdown in communication:

• the person thinks they have all the relative information (they usually don’t)

• the person thinks that the other person will act or react to a given situation in the same way that they would act or react (they rarely do).

It is important that all salon staff communicate effectively. If they don’t it has a bad impact on the business. If you, as a hairdresser don’t ensure effective communication it can mean that:

• information given and received is not accurate and this may result in the wrong hairstyle being done or the wrong products being applied to the hair. If this happens when chemicals are being used it could have drastic consequences

• good relationships are not formed. Good relationships are very important in a job that requires a lot of personal interaction and if poor communication prevents good interaction this will result in the client going to another salon where she/ he can build a good relationship with the hairdresser

• a poor image of the salon will be projected. It is important to create a professional image of the salon and an effective way of doing this is to talk and listen to clients. An area of communication that is often overlooked is non-verbal communication (body language). This type of communication usually creates the first impression of a salon and if staff look slovenly or sound rude the client will go elsewhere.

One of the main parts of your job as a hairdresser is to conduct a full consultation before doing any work on the client. This requires a good standard of communication to be used. If the consultation is poorly done it can result in:

• client dissatisfaction

• the requested service not being provided

• the service provided not being suitable for the client’s hair or scalp

• potential damage to the hair or scalp

• possible loss of business to the salon.

There are two methods of communication

• Verbal

• Non-verbal.

Verbal communication

Speaking is verbal communication.

Non-verbal communication

Non-verbal communication can be reading, writing and listening. In addition, body language is another name for nonverbal communication. All humans read body language, even babies, before they can talk, can read it correctly.

You can learn a lot about your client by watching their body language but they can also can gain as much information about you by watching yours.

Eye contact is an important part of body language, if someone can’t meet your eyes it may make them distrust you. The way you stand, sit, smile, speak, and listen, all of these give information about you to people who see you. You must ensure that your body language creates a professional impression.

Is verbal communication more important than non-verbal communication? Discuss this with your trainer and your colleagues.

Activity G7.3.1 (page 1 of 2)

Effective communication

Notes

How to use varied vocabulary and expressions to suit your purpose

When trying to present an argument, express ideas or opinions or exchange information you must be able to use different words and phrases to explain what you mean. Your vocabulary must be wide enough that you can use different expressions to help your client understand what you are saying.

For example, if the client doesn’t understand what you mean when you suggest that she should have her hair cut into a bob then you must be able to describe the shape of the cut in another way.

• You may say that the ends of the hair turn under and this may allow a picture to form in the client’s mind of what you mean.

• Most hairdressers will also use their hands to describe a shape while they are speaking about it. This is an effective way of using body language.

• You may show the client a style book –this is a good way to illustrate what the shape of the cut looks like.

In order that you can fully understand the client’s requirements and that the client knows what is in your mind you must:

• speak clearly

• avoid using jargon or slang words

• speak in an even, well modulated tone

• ask relevant questions

• listen carefully to what the client says

• clarify by further discussion any areas of which you or the client are unsure

• use visual aids (style book, shade chart) to make clear your thoughts and the client’s wishes.

One of the best ways of communicating is to speak and to listen to the responses given by the other person.

If you speak you expect the other person to listen, if the other person speaks she/he expects you to listen. If you don’t listen to what the client says there is likely to be a breakdown in communication.

Hairdressers must not look at themselves in the mirror while talking to a client. This suggests that they are more interested in themselves than in the client. However, it is

How

to adapt your contributions to suit different situations, how to show you are listening closely and responding appropriately and how to identify the speaker’s intentions.

You must learn to adapt your contributions to a conversation to suit different situations, ie, the amount you say, your manner and tone of voice.

It may happen that the client complains about work previously done in the salon. You must learn to spend more time listening to the complaint than in defending the work or in suggesting that the client is not looking after it correctly!

If you don’t allow the client to voice their concerns then they will become frustrated and possibly angry. In this type of situation you must learn to be sympathetic, even when the client is wrong. Your tone of voice should be quiet and you should show concern for their fears and doubts.

Another situation might be when a client is unsure of what they want. This situation requires you to be proactive, to make suggestions and comments. You should not remain quiet in these circumstances.

Clients need to know that you are listening closely to what they say. You can do this by remaining quiet while they are speaking but then asking relevant questions at the proper times. This is known as responding appropriately. If you fail to ask relevant questions or to

make comments the client is likely to think that you have no interest in what they are saying. This may result in the loss of a client.

While listening you should maintain eye contact with the client. This is a very effective way of confirming that you are listening. Other body language such as your facial expression and giving her your full attention is reassuring.

It is important that you identify the speaker’s intentions in any discussion. By listening to their tone of voice, the vocabulary that they use and by watching their body language you will be able to decide the purpose of their words.

They may be waiting for you to suggest a new hairstyle but don’t know how to broach the subject so they talk all around the issue without ever referring to themselves. They may want to cancel an appointment but are embarrassed to do so. They may wish to tell you something in confidence and are waiting for the right opportunity. Only once you have identified their intentions will you be able to respond appropriately.

By paying attention to your clients and by reading their body language you will become a more perceptive hairdresser. This is likely to make you more popular with clients because people sense when others are interested in them.

Every hairdresser’s time is limited and, while it is important to conduct a full consultation, some clients may want more of your time than is necessary.

In some circumstances you may have to develop points of the discussion to ensure that you and the client are in agreement. You may need to obtain more information to help you to make the correct choice of colour or cut shape or to confirm exactly what length you will cut the hair. It may be necessary to develop the discussion further by advising the use of specific products or a series of preparatory conditioning treatments prior to a relaxer.

You may be planning a hairstyle for a special occasion and need to find out about what clothing will be worn – a wedding veil can make quite a difference to a hairstyle so it is important to develop the discussion to include such details.

It is easy to become sidetracked when dealing with certain clients and this can be time consuming. You must learn to focus on the purpose when holding a discussion with them.

By focusing on purpose you will be able to give a better service to clients and you will save salon time. This can make a difference when you are trying to keep to time with a busy appointments book; it means that other clients are not kept waiting.

Once you have agreed what work is to be done it is important that you can bring the consultation discussion to an end without making the client feel as though you are tired of talking to her.

You must summarise what has been agreed, ensuring that you cover all areas of the consultation, then bring it to a close by completing the record and by suggesting that you start the work or that the client makes an appointment to have it done.

Do you always give a full consultation with every client in your salon?

Is there a time limit set on consultations in your salon?

What do you think is a reasonable time to spend in consultation? Discuss this with your colleagues and your trainer.

Advise and consult with clients

Learner Check Session 1

1 What are the three requirements of the Data Protection Act?

2 Whose privacy does the Data Protection Act cover?

3 How does the Sale of Goods Act affect hairdressers?

4 How does the Supply of Goods and Services Act affect hairdressers?

5 What is the common law that governs the way that hairdressers can describe products?

6 Over and above use before the chemical services, when would an elasticity test or a porosity test be done?

7 Name four factors that a salon owner would take into account when creating a pricing structure.

8 Specify three things to be taken into account when calculating the likely cost of a service.

9 What do the COSHH regulations require hairdressers to do?

10 Describe how to safely lift a heavy object from the floor.

Advise and consult with clients

Learner Check Session 2

1 Describe the effect of cutting a fine, short fringe with two cowlicks at the forehead.

2 What is a double crown?

3 What type of style best suits a client with an oval shaped face?

4 Who can diagnose a case of impetigo?

5 How many stages are there in the growth cycle of a human hair?

6 What are the three factors that contribute to healthy hair?

7 In which layer of the hair do chemical changes take place?

8 How many functions does the skin have?

9 What is texture when referring to human hair?

Advise and consult with clients

Learner Check Session 3

1 What sort of effect will good communication have on a salon’s business?

2 Give three possible results of ineffective communication.

3 Name two methods of communication?

4 What sort of communication is listening?

5 What is the difference between hearing and listening?

6 Why is it important to show clients that you are listening closely?

7 Why must you identify the speaker’s intentions?

8 Why is it important to develop certain points before moving the discussion forward?

9 Why must you focus on the purpose of a discussion?

Hair structure

Polypeptide chains

Protofibrils

Microfibrils

Macrofibrils

Medulla

Cortex

Cuticle

Skin structure

Hair

Follicle

Sebaceous Gland

Arrector Pili Muscle

Epidermis

Dermis

Papilla

Blood supply

Pore

Sweat Gland

Hair and Skin tests (1 of 2)

Consequences of not testing

Expected results

How done

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Hair stretches and returns to original length

Stretch hairs between fingers/ thumbs

Why done

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Hair feels either smooth or rough

Run fingers down hair from points to roots

Damage to hair, possible breakage

Liquid fizzes, bubbles, changes colour, heats up

Immerse hair in ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide

Allergic reaction, possible anaphylactic shock

No reaction. If skin does react it will be: itchy, red, sore, weeping. Do not colour if this happens

Clean a small area of skin behind the ear or crook of the elbow, apply small amount of product. Check after 24 –48 hours

When done

To check condition of the cortex

Before chemical treatment or during consultation

Test

To check condition of the cuticle

Before chemical treatment or during consultation

Elasticity test

Porosity test

To check for presence of metallic salts

Before chemical treatment or during consultation

Incompatibility test

To find out if the client is allergic to the product

Before colouring hair

Skin test

Hair and Skin tests (2 of 2)

Consequences of not testing

Expected results

How done

Incorrect colour or bleach shade

Under or over processed perm

Incorrect colour result

Why done

Colour has reached desired result

Remove product from strand of hair, check colour development

To check colour or bleach development

When done

Good, firm S shape if fully developed

Loosen rod, gently push back hair to roots, look for S shape. Repeat with other rods

Suitable colour result

Take small cutting of hair, apply proposed colourant, develop and check result

Test

During colour or bleach development

Strand test

To check perm development

To check effect of colourant on hair

During perm development

Perm development test

Before colouring treatment

Colour test

Services, Products and Pricing

the level of charge is likely to vary from a senior stylist to a junior stylist time required the hair may be longer or more abundant than average than usual. A cut may be a restyle rather than a straightforward cut extra product the normal amount of product may not be enough if the hair is very long or very abundant. If a regrowth has been allowed to grow too long, the cost of extra product must be considered specialism

the work may require special skills, eg, putting long hair up or using a new technique

the client may need to have a double application if she has allowed her regrowth to become too long, her hair may need to be cut before styling or styled after cutting, etc.

if the work is to be done at a time when there are price concessions available

the stylist

extra work

concessions

Porosity and Elasticity Testing

The hair structure can be tested by carrying out elasticity and porosity tests.

Elasticity Test

An elasticity test will test the strength of the cortex.

The hair is supported at the roots with one hand and the ends of the hair are held with the other hand. The hair is gently stretched. Hair in good condition will return to its normal length. Hair in poor condition will remain stretched or it will break.

Wet hair will stretch more than dry hair.

Porosity Test

A porosity test will test the condition of the cuticle.

A small section of hair is held with the first finger and thumb of one hand at the ends. The first finger and thumb of the other hand are used to stroke the hair towards the roots. Porous hair will feel rough, resistant hair will feel smooth.