FRUIT TEMPTATIONS
Hand-pulled apple strudel featuring dried and a fresh garnish of blueberries from Das Lokal in Ottawa. For more on the innovative use of fruit in desserts, see page 8.
As the
Chef
Adapt
and
from the cold in order to survive. One of the best ways to prevent pests from discovering new sheltering spots is to know where in your bakery they are most likely to hide. Alice Sinia of Orkin Canada describes the top four hot spots where you’ll likely find pests in winter, as well as how to keep these areas pest-free all season.
BY COLLEEN CROSS
FOCUS ON WHAT THRIVES
Nice to meet you. My name is Colleen Cross and I’m your new editor. I am no stranger to Bakers Journal, having written feature articles as an associate and served as interim editor. Since 2015 I’ve been editor of sister magazine Canadian Pizza, which serves independent pizzeria operators and larger chains who have a fair bit in common with bakery operators.
I appreciate the baking industry’s strong work ethic, entrepreneurial spirit and creative innovation. Those who make good things and work to feed and please others seem to have a naturally positive outlook. You are always moving forward, trying new ideas, looking for that perfect product – whether traditional or outside the cake box.
This year I was given a meditation card during a yoga class that reads, “Directing my focus to what’s thriving creates more of what I want.” I stuck it to my fridge to remind me positivity is a choice we make every minute and every day. That’s a good message during a season of gratitude. And it can help get you through supply-chain headaches, time-consuming pandemic rules and the all-or-nothing rush of pent-up customer demand.
I am familiar with this industry in another important way: as a dedicated and enthusiastic customer. I have enjoyed many a tea and scone in a bakery café in Canada and abroad.
Thinking about my favourite bakeries and cafés, I realize they have one thing in common: They’ve found their unique selling point. They know what makes them different – what’s thriving – and they make the most of that specialness.
Some delightful examples:
A small Scandinavian-themed storefront bakery serving almond-laced pastries and cookies, and wholesome biscuits and bread.
}A bustling downtown bakery in a major city where customers self-absorbed and chatty alike eat communally at long, wooden tables (a vacation find so good it required a return visit before leaving the city).
Thinking about my favourite bakeries and cafés, I realize they have one thing in common: a unique selling point.
A small café with rustic, serene décor and music that serves dozens of specialty coffees, teas and other beverages, where even the smallest cookie delights with surprising flavour combinations.
A small, extremely busy rural bakery that makes a dozen all-natural, innovative breads available on specific days of the week, where loyal customers order ahead for their favourites based on a clever weekly enewsletter that lists the breads and offers wry (rye) words of wisdom.
A bustling business that’s equal parts café and bakery, tempting customers to enjoy lunch and visit the counter again after having a gander at its dazzling patisserie, hearty breads and unique gifts scattered throughout the store.
At Bakers Journal our unique selling point is covering and supporting the baking industry by providing useful information, by delighting you each issue with stories that reflect your work and values, and by helping you anticipate and act on shifts in customer demand. One way we do that is by covering industry events and trade shows. There is nothing quite like getting out among others with similar experiences, business goals and passion for learning. It’s a great way to, as in yoga, pause, take a deep breath and clear your mind to let in new ideas and perspectives.
An event we highly recommend is the Baking Association of Canada’s Bakery Showcase, set for April 10-11, 2022, in Toronto. We are the BAC’s proud partner in bringing you this activity-packed show. Learn more about it in the preview in this edition, register now, check the website – www.baking.ca – and follow Bakers Journal for updates on exhibitors, news about the speaker program and main stage activities. We can’t wait to see you there! Meanwhile, we wish you a successful holiday season and a happy, healthy 2022! / BJ
DECEMBER 2021 | VOL. 81, NO. 10
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INSPIRATIONAL BAKERY OF THE YEAR
Your bakery could be on the front page of Canada’s national baking industry magazine!
Tell Bakers Journal how you innovate, what you do differently from other bakers, and what makes your treats so very delicious. How does your bakery do business from day to day? Share your story for a chance to win.
• Front page story, full feature about their bakery
• Travel and hotel to Bakery Showcase 2022*
*See contest details at www.jakethebaker.com
• A video spotlight feature aired online about the bakery and its baker(s)
briefly | Bimbo acquires Popcornopolis; George Weston sells bakery businesses for 1.2B; Ladurée confirms it makes all macarons in Switzerland | For more news in the baking world, check out our website, bakersjournal.com
Rye a better choice than wheat for weight loss Swedish study suggests
Eating whole grain rye products instead of refined wheat alternatives can provide worthwhile health benefits, say researchers at Chalmers University of Technology in Sweden.
The team recently published a study showing that people who ate high-fibre products made from whole grain rye lost more body fat and overall weight than those who ate corresponding products made from refined wheat.
The new results have been published in the scientific journal Clinical Nutrition. It is the largest study yet designed to evaluate the effects of particular types of grains on body weight and body fat, as well as the first study to focus specifically on rye.
Canada’s new COVID-19 subsidies target tourism and hospitality and hardest-hit businesses
The federal government is shifting from the broad-based support offered at the height of pandemic lockdowns to more targeted measures, including two new subsidy programs for tourism and hospitality and hardest-hit businesses. It is proposing the following changes to business support programs:
• Extending the Canada Recovery Hiring Program until May 7, 2022, for eligible employers with current revenue losses above 10 per cent and increase the subsidy rate to 50 per cent to help businesses continue to hire back workers and create jobs.
• Delivering targeted support to businesses that are still facing significant pandemicrelated challenges through the Tourism and Hospitality Recovery Program and the Hardest-Hit Business Recovery Program.
• Applicants for these programs will use a new “two-key” eligibility system whereby they will need to demonstrate significant revenue losses over the course of 12 months of the pandemic, as well as revenue losses in the current month. Businesses that face temporary new local lockdowns will be eligible for up to the maximum amount of the wage and rent subsidy programs, during the local lockdown, regardless of losses over the course of the pandemic.
These programs will be available until May 7, 2022, with the proposed subsidy rates available through to March 13, 2022. From March 13, 2022, to May 7, 2022, the subsidy rates will decrease by half. For more information, visit canada.ca.
Bundy Baking Solutions expands
Bundy, CEO of
Solutions announced the expansion of American Pan in the European market.
Bundy Baking Solutions acquired Runex, a Sweden-based provider of bakeware and coating services. The agreement includes the company’s production, sales and service operations in Sweden, Norway and the U.K.
American Pan currently has locations throughout Europe in Skelmersdale, U.K.; Irlam, U.K.; Barcelona, Spain; and Alexandria, Romania. The Runex coating operation formerly in Luton, England, has moved to the American Pan site in Skelmersdale and will continue to refurbish Runex brand coatings. Runex locations in Sweden and Norway will continue normal operations in their current facilities.
Dairy prices set to rise in 2022
Bakers could see increases in the price of dairy products in February 2022.
In October 2021, the Canadian Dairy Commission conducted a review of Canadian farm gate milk prices and other costs used in administering the supply management system. As a result of the review and consultations, the CDC intends to implement the following changes on Feb. 1, 2022:
“The farm gate milk price will increase by $6.31/hl (or $0.06 per litre). The increase in producers’ revenues will partially offset increased production costs due to the COVID-19 pandemic which caused revenues to remain below the cost of production. Feed, energy, and fertilizer costs have been particularly impacted.
“This will increase by an average of 8.4 per cent the cost of milk used to make dairy products for the retail and restaurant sectors.
“However, the increase in the cost to processors will depend on the butterfat and solids non-fat content of the product they manufacture.
“The CDC’s butter storage fees will be reduced from $0.0206 to $0.0137 per kg of butter, a 33% reduction. The Commission stores a certain quantity of butter to guarantee an adequate supply throughout the year, and to prevent shortages. In the case of butter sold at retail, for example, these fees represent half a cent per pound of butter (454 grams).
“In order to reflect these changes, the support price for butter used by the CDC in its storage programs will increase from $8.7149 to $9.7923 per kg on Feb. 1, 2022, an increase of 12.4 per cent.”
The new farm milk prices will become official once they are approved by provincial authorities in early December 2021.
Gilbert
Bundy Baking
new products ¦
From the latest in baking ingredients, to the newest continuous mixer, Bakers Journal keeps you “in the know.” FOR MORE on new products for the baking industry, www.bakersjournal.com
Cargill’s soluble rice flour appeals to consumers’ desire for label-friendly ingredients
Cargill has launched a soluble rice flour, SimPure 92260, that exhibits similar taste, texture and functionality to maltodextrin, an ingredient commonly used as a bulking agent and flavour carrier and designed to appeal to label-reading consumers.
SimPure soluble rice flour provides similar viscosity attributes, bulking agent functionality and sensory profiles compared to 10 DE maltodextrin, enabling simple, one-to-one replacement in a variety of applications, including reduced-sugar bakery products, dairy, powdered beverages, convenience foods, sauces and dressings, snacks, cereals and bars, seasoning mixes and as a flavour carrier. In some applications, SimPure soluble rice flour offers the added advantage of improved mouthfeel. For example, in powdered chocolate milk beverages, Cargill’s sensory testing found prototypes made with the soluble rice flour were perceived as creamier than the maltodextrin control. cargill.com
Puratos USA adds new cleanlabel flavouring to plant-based product line
Gourmet bakery ingredient manufacturer Puratos USA is making it easier for bakers to add real fruit to their baked goods. Adding fruit fillings to baked goods can be challenging for bakers: large pieces can clog depositors, too much moisture can result in a soggy crust, and adding too much filling may change the functionality of a cake batter or icing.
Puratos Classics is a new range of flavouring compounds that aims to resolve these various challenges.
“The beauty of Classics is that anyone can use them” says Jessica Blondeel, Senior Product Manager for Patisserie at Puratos USA, in a statement. “Whether you’re an artisan creating a real lemon mousse cake or a large donut producer looking for an icing made with real strawberries, Classics are the answer. There is no need for special equipment and no need to adapt your recipe.”
In addition to being versatile and easy to use, Classics are plant-based and one of the cleanest compounds on the market, the company said in a press release. They are free from preservatives, artificial flavours, colours and genetically modified organisms.
They also are suited for fresh, frozen and long-shelf-life items and can be stored at ambient temperature – even after opening – freeing up refrigeration space.
The Classic portfolio includes clean-label lemon, orange, strawberry, and coffee.
Each variety is available in a 26-pound, bag-in-box suited to larger bakeries and a 1.25-pound pouch with a pour spout that is convenient for artisans, restaurants or in-store bakeries. puratos.us.
PHOTO: JIRI HERA / ADOBE STOCK
FRUIT TEMPTATIONS
Bakers and pastry chefs long for local rhubarb as the first sign of spring. Once summer comes, kitchens are filled with berries and cherries. More stone fruits make an appearance heading toward fall. Then, apples and pears arrive in bushels. Teams are busy crafting fruit-filled desserts and preserving what remains to
enjoy all year long.
“We source fruit from local farmers, from a weekly list that features what they have harvested,” says Marie Ford, pastry chef at Das Lokal restaurant, in downtown Ottawa. “We preserve our fruits in many ways. We freeze or dehydrate fresh berries and make jams and coulis.”
As a nod to the restaurant’s classic German-inspired menu, black forest cake is always a
staple dessert. “I cook cherries down in sugar, lemon juice, and Vinea, a grape liqueur from Ontario. Then, I layer it between a cocoa sponge, with Chantilly cream and shaved dark chocolate on top.”
Ford likes pairing any red berry with dark or white chocolate. When combining various fruits with spices, she says, “I love cardamom, cinnamon, and allspice.”
A highlight of the fall and
winter dessert menu is the hand-pulled strudel. First, the dough is made and allowed to rest overnight. The next day it is stretched and filled. “I like to use apples or pears cooked down lightly in brown sugar, butter and lemon juice with cinnamon, cardamom and allspice. Then, I mix in some lemon and orange zest, and dried fruit such as cranberries, raisins or blueberries. I also use some rye breadcrumbs that I
A highlight of the fall and winter dessert menu at Das Lokal is hand-pulled apple strudel featuring dried and a fresh garnish of blueberries.
dry from bread ends and crush,” Ford says.
When the strudels are assembled, each is egg washed and topped with turbine sugar. Once baked and plated, Ford keeps it simple: “I like to serve the strudel with vanilla or stout ice cream or creme anglaise.”
In December, customers can delight in her newest dessert creation, which also happens to be vegan. “The sticky toffee pudding is made with dates, and served with Riesling and spice-poached pears, warm toffee sauce and a saffron banana ice cream,” Ford says. “I like to poach the pears in Riesling with lots of orange zest, cinnamon and cardamom and preserve them by jarring the pears in syrup.”
Pies really shine at The Happy Bakers, in Etobicoke, Ont. Linda Timms, one of four owners at the bakery, crafts these homey creations, freshly baked, and bubbling with fruit. “Everything is handmade using fruit from the farmers market in season. Off-season we buy flash frozen, so the fruit stays in individual pieces.”
}Apple Homestyle Pie is a top seller, and only fresh apples are used. “We peel, core, and cut our apples by hand the old-fashioned way. Cinnamon, brown sugar and flour is added to the apples. I like Cortland and Mitsu apples because they always stay crisp. Then, I add a third variety such as Royal Gala, Red Delicious, Golden Delicious or Granny Smith. I stay away from MacIntosh because they bake down and get mushy.”
For the ever-popular blueberry pie, only the wild variety will do. “We add brown sugar and flour to the blueberries, and I always like to add a hint of vanilla.”
During summer when peaches are in season, The Happy Bakers cannot keep the peach pies on the shelves. First
the peaches are mixed with brown sugar, nutmeg and flour. Timms and her team may also add fresh blueberries or raspberries. When cranberries are added Timms swirls in both fresh and dried.
And then there is the aptly named Kitchen Pie. “We take all the fruit we have left in the kitchen and measure it out by the handfuls. This is combined it into one delicious pie. Customers love it.”
It isn’t Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie. The Happy Bakers pumpkin pie is made with pumpkin puree, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, molasses, brown sugar and eggs.
All pie varieties are available in nine inches or five inches. For larger special events such as weddings, three-inch mini pies can be custom ordered.
Fruit plays an important role in the dessert creations at Manoir Hovey, in North Hatley, Que. The Relais & Chateau country-side property with just 36 rooms has two restaurants for guests – Le Hatley Restaurant and the more casual Le Tap Room.
For December, the signature dessert at Manoir Hovey is the Blancmange with haskap berries, lavender and almonds, “a beautiful floating winter meringue island, infused with local lavender.”
presented it as a peach deconstruction, which was very popular,” she says. “Then for fall, our Compton apple dessert combined with oats, caramelized apple and celery,
All bakers and pastry chefs, whether they work in bakeries, restaurants or hotels, know the value of adding fruit desserts to the menu.
“For the most part we source our fruit locally,” says Frenchborn pastry chef Elodie Lariviere, who manages a team of three in the kitchen. In terms of preservation, we use a multitude of different methods such as canning, fermentation and dehydration.”
Lariviere says in the early summer she likes to use strawberries and rhubarb to create a traditional pie, with an elegant plating technique. It is served with homemade fruit sorbet.
As for late summer it’s all about peaches. “We developed a dessert which played on a variety of peach textures and
makes for a lovely seasonal delight.”
For December, the signature dessert is the Blancmange with haskap berries, lavender and almonds. “The Blancmange, once plated, will look like a beautiful floating winter meringue island, infused with local lavender,” Lariviere elaborates. “The egg white is sourced from a local duck egg farm. The yolk isn’t wasted. In fact, we use it to make the custard cream, which will also be infused with lavender. The dish is finished with a delicious, homemade, haskap berry sorbet and topped with sliced
almonds.” Then she adds, “All the ingredients, other than the almonds and sugar, are sourced within a 40-kilometer radius of the hotel.”
For the very last bite of the meal guests can enjoy homemade chocolates with real fruit fillings including sea buckthorn, sour cherries and apples.
In the more casual dining Tap Room, guests can enjoy homey desserts such as a chocolate brownie with raspberry compote and maple ice cream.
All bakers and pastry chefs, whether they work in bakeries, restaurants or hotels, know the value of adding fruit desserts to the menu. It’s about embellishing nature’s bounty through the creativity of baking. / BJ
Karen Barr writes about arts, culture and cuisine. She is a graduate of George Brown College and is a Red Seal pastry chef.
¦ concepts for success ¦
BY DIANE CHIASSON
HANDLING THE HOLIDAYS
Nine quick tips on how your bakery should handle the holidays with minimum stress and maximum sales
The holiday season is in full swing, and that means it’s time to get into the festivities at your bakery store. This year’s holidays will certainly feel a little different, but people are very eager to go out now and experience some of the familiar holiday treats your bakery offers.
Here are nine quicks tips on how your bakery should handle the holidays.
1. REVIEW 2020, AND PLAN FROM IT
I am positive that you have your last year’s holiday sales. By accurately tracking and using past data, you will be able to create a realistic forecast. You will be able to configure promotions and staffing levels to ensure optimal productivity, staffing and service. These documents should be the most important papers that you need to review. You need to assess when you sold and how much you sold as it is the only way to predict what you need to order and make for this year’s holidays. You should get input from your employees, so they feel like they are part of the plan and eventual solution.
2. UNDERSTAND THE IMPORTANCE OF SCHEDULING PROPERLY
Make sure you offer treats from other cultures, such as laddu or laddoo. Have Diwali, Chanukah, Kwanzaa and even a New Year’s Eve theme for your goods.
good work-life balance by having enough time for your family and friends, exercise and hobbies.
3. GET IN THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT AND SET THE STAGE
’Tis the season for decorating! Remember that how you decorate your bakery for the holiday season will influence your customers’ buying habits. Make sure your bakery store is inviting with a cheerful ambiance and feels holiday-friendly. Your storefront should be super clean and
}Selling prepackaged goods will be beneficial for customers who want to limit the time they spend around other people.
Proper scheduling is vital to the successful management of your bakery operation during the holiday season. Review your to-do list and schedule, high-priority and urgent activities, essential and accurate bakery production, inventory and maintenance tasks, employee schedule, and customer service. Avoid taking on more than you can handle. Understand what you can realistically achieve with your time and make sure to have enough time for essential tasks. Always add contingency time for the unexpected. Try to achieve a
welcoming, and your store’s interiors encourage the upsell with fun and festive decorations, twinkle lights and holiday music. A bit of greenery and bows may be all you need. Just remember that your customers don’t just want to eat holidayinspired food: they also want to experience the holiday season.
4. ENTICE TASTE BUDS WITH HOLIDAY SPECIALTY BAKED GOODS AND DRINKS
Isn’t it the perfect time to bring in a special
menu? Introduce or reintroduce the best-selling holiday menu items from all previous years. Make sure you offer treats from other cultures. Have Diwali, Chanukah, Kwanzaa and even a New Year’s Eve theme for your goods. Focus on making a variety of treats for each relevant holiday. You will not only create additional sales, but you will make someone’s day as well. Unleash your creativity during the holidays, but don’t forget the classics in your haste to be original. Espresso-based beverages such as gingerbread latte, peppermint mocha and eggnog promote a festive mood.
5. PREPACKAGE YOUR BAKED GOODS
This year, it’s a must to sell prepackaged goods. It will be beneficial for customers who want to limit the time they spend around other people. Emphasizing that your baked goods are prepared with a personal touch and a little history may strike a chord with customers seeking traditional items. Nowadays, bakeries are seeing greater demand for individual servings and prepackaged items. In addition, customers really like fun novelty items like cake pops, and you can make them with Rice Krispies on sticks in different Christmas shapes dipped in chocolate and packaged individually.
PHOTO: ELENA
6. PROMOTE GIFT CARDS AND ENCOURAGE GIFTGIVING
The festive season is traditionally a time of higher spending. While there is a perception that gift cards are impersonal, they are some of the most requested gifts of the season and are particularly popular among those aged 18 to 34. In addition, many gift card receivers will spend more than the value of their gift card once in the store. Gift cards are the quick and easy gift that everybody loves to receive. Place a prominent gift-card display at the cash register to encourage spontaneous gifting. You can also quickly sell gift cards online. Now that your customers are in the holiday mood, make gifting easier by displaying an assortment of holiday-exclusive gift baskets in different sizes and price ranges, showing your brand’s personality. These can contain your coffee, brewing supplies, mugs, t-shirts, baked holiday goods and any other items you carry.
7. KEEP YOUR STAFF HAPPY
Are your employees in the holiday mood? The season is about happiness and merriment, so make sure your employees put their best foot forward throughout their shift. When you have adequately stocked and staffed your bakery store, your employees won’t feel overwhelmed. This will help them stay smiling so that they can better help your customers. As you know, being properly staffed is key to a great customer experience. Ensure that you have all of your staff members before your competitors scoop up the most reliable talent. Make sure that all of your seasonal employees are
well trained. Don’t forget that the better informed your employees are, the better the guest experience will be.
8. ADVERTISE YOUR DELIVERY AND CURBSIDE PICKUP
If you have an online ordering system, delivery is another great contactless option. Your customers can place their orders without leaving their homes and without spending time on the phone. If you can do curbside pickup, it’s a good idea to designate a pick-up area that requires as little contact as possible. Ensure your customers know the process for picking up their baked goods before they get to your bakery.
9. UPDATE YOUR WEBSITE AND BOOST YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA PRESENCE
Your customers spend an enormous amount of time on social media, so make sure to have a strong social media presence, particularly on Facebook (now called Meta) and Instagram. Having an updated website with an efficient online ordering system will ensure your customers are able to connect with your brand directly. Don’t forget that you will also keep 100 per cent of the profits instead of getting orders via a third-party company. Finally, don’t neglect to update your Google My Business Page with accurate holiday hours.
With so much to do – planning, scheduling, bakery product development, merchandising, packaging, employee training, promotions, delivery and curbside pickup – your bakery will be very busy until the end of January 2022. / BJ
With 79% of our sugar packaging being recyclable paper, and 45% of our maple packaging being recyclable glass, we’re committed to increasing these numbers to further reduce our environmental footprint... because there is no planet B.
Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 35 years by providing innovative and revenue-increasing food service and retail merchandising programs, interior design, branding, menu engineering, marketing and promotional campaigns. Contact her at 416-926-1338, send her an email at chiasson@ chiassonconsultlants.com, or visit www.chiassonconsultants.com
3D printing layering technique increases sweetness of reduced-sugar chocolate: U of Alberta study
Researchers at the University of Alberta are using a layering technique to 3D print low-sugar chocolate that makes it taste as sweet as chocolate made using regular sugar.
Sugar-reduced chocolates with desirable sensory qualities and sweetness can be created using a 3D printer by layering chocolates with different sugar concentrations, the study’s authors said in their abstract.
This study aimed to evaluate the temporal sensory profile, perceived sweetness intensity, and acceptance of prototype sugar-reduced and non-sugar-reduced 3D printed chocolates.
A consumer panel evaluated the sensory profiles of six-layered chocolates. Sensory profiles were determined by temporal dominance of sensations, overall sweetness by a five-point intensity scale, overall liking by the nine-point hedonic scale and differences among chocolates over time were visualized by principal component analysis.
influenced the perceived overall sweetness and temporal sensory profiles of 3D printed chocolates with different total sugar concentrations.
MILK CHOCOLATE VS. DARK CHOCOLATE
The dominance of attributes associated with milk chocolate was observed to increase sweetness perception while the dominance of attributes associated with dark chocolate was observed to decrease overall sweetness perception. Three-dimensional food printing technology is progressing rapidly, and further sugar reduction could be achieved with refined research methods, the authors found.
Layering by 3D printing achieved a 19 per cent reduction in sugar without changes in the perceived overall sweetness and overall liking. Layering order of high and low sugar chocolate
The study, entitled “Temporal Sensory Perceptions of Sugar-Reduced 3D Printed Chocolates,” has been published in the journal Foods.
Authors are Khemiga Khemacheevakul and John Wolodko of the Department of Agricultural, Food and Nutritional Science, University of Alberta; Ha Nguyen and Wendy Wismer.
Reference: Foods 2021, 10(9), 2082; https://doi.org/10.3390/ fods10092082
Chocolate-tempering demonstration
Industry news
Bakery Showcase 2022 program, exhibitors and sponsors
Notes from the Executive Director
Who are the new bakers and what are they baking?
Years go by, in fact decades go by, and sometimes we have our noses stuck in our own dough and don’t realize that slowly the industry we joined some time ago has changed.
We read about innovations and go to shows, listen to tech reps and have access to YouTube videos. A new shop opens down the road; do we go and introduce ourselves or check out their products or are we so busy with our own gig that we just hear about it secondhand?
Now there is another way to expose yourself to new ideas and baking philosophies and it is just a podcast click away. (And for you technophobes and Luddites, a podcast is just a new way to listen to the radio!). Rise Up! The Baker Podcast (https://riseuppod.com/) is presented by Mark Dyck, who is a Regina native and founder (with his wife Cindy) of Orange Boot Bakery in that city. When the family sold the business Mark decided to have conversations with the bakers he knew and broadcast those interviews to the wider audience of bakerphiles.
Three years and 150 episodes later there exists a huge canon of shows that can be listened to anytime. The bakers that Mark talks to are from all over the world; they include recent startups like Adam Christie from Working Culture Bread in Victoria, B.C. (#128), bakery gods like Peter Reinhart (#52) and Jeffrey Hamelman (#53), and larger enterprises like author and baker Daniel Leader’s “Bread Alone” (#78). In between are a myriad of deep and involved conversations about the philosophy and practice of baking, starting a business, surviving pandemics and entertaining personal histories.
Mark is a lively and engaged interviewer who talks to not only
bakers but also millers, authors, farmers and innovators. He touches on all issues including demographics, labour, finances, work/life balance and other day-to-day bakery challenges.
My favourite time to listen to a podcast is while I am in my little home bakery, at the bench, whiling away the hours waiting for bread to rise. Sometimes I will listen in the car and the kilometres melt away as I am immersed in another baker’s life.
As bakers, we often find ourselves so caught up in our own dayto-day routines that we have no time to engage with our peers. It is refreshing to hear someone articulate the same challenges and successes that we all encounter and reassuring that we are not alone in our quests to become the best purveyors of baked goods to our communities!
Continued on page 14
Notes from the Executive Director
Continued from page 13
New European documentary on bread It’s often a guilty pleasure to watch a couple of movies when flying but I had a pleasant surprise when I flew to Toronto in mid-November.
As I was perusing the movie content, I noticed a documentary titled Bread: An Everyday Miracle (Brot: Das Wunder das wir täglich essen) At first, I thought it was going to be about making sourdough at home during the pandemic, but I decided to watch it anyway and expected a generic film shot to appeal to home bakers.
Bread, directed by Harald Freidl from Austria in 2020, explores artisan bread production from the perspectives of six active, thoughtful and successful professionals: Christophe Vasseur, owner of the iconic Paris bakery Du Pain et des Ideés; Karl de Smedt, “the sourdough librarian,” who works for Puratos; HansJochen Holthausen, managing director of Harry Bread (Harry-Brot GmbH), the largest manufacturer of baked goods in Germany; the family of bakers at Öfferl from Gaubitsch in Germany who turned a losing business model around by going 100 per cent organic; and also perspectives from Apollonia Poilâne, who runs the famous Poilâne Bakery in Paris; and finally, a member of the European parliament, who is also an organic farmer, contributes to the discussion.
Between exotic bakery trade fair visits, sensual aroma samples, diabolical enzyme mixtures and sci-fi production models as well as the bizarre search for the right recipe for bread on Mars, Friedl’s film explains the complex relationships between ecology and work, health and taste, and politics and consumption in an exciting way. I especially appreciate the format of the film, which focuses only on what the participants have to say. It isn’t a probing interview and there are no judgments implied, allowing the viewer to be educated and form their own opinions. Whether you are a fan of the small artisan bakery or intrigued by the logistics of baking for the masses, this is a thoughtprovoking film. Wherever we sit on the spectrum of baking, we should all be having these conversations. At this time, we have been unable to source available
copies for the Canadian market but have made extensive enquiries and will let you know. Until then, watch it on your next Air Canada flight, or if you have a no-zone DVD player order one from amazon.de.
Bakery tour: Brodflour
Having watched this movie about our industry, my thoughts segued to my Toronto trip.
I was fortunate to be invited to visit two bakeries. The first was Brodflour in Liberty Village, which bills itself as an urban mill and bakery and appears to encompass
around 2,000 square feet. Matthew Faust, who runs the business, showed me around. About one-third of the business’s space is taken up by large mill.
“Our stone mill is from New American Stone Mills in Vermont,” Faust told me. It is their largest model with the stones at 48 inches in diameter. It’s capable of producing around 40 kilograms of sifted flour per hour and around 50 kilograms of whole grain.” The bakery is milling roughly 250-350 kilograms of fresh flour, he added.
“Our red fife wheat and hard red wheat are from two different farms in Manitoba, and rye and spelt come from Peterborough, Ont.” he said.
This is an intriguing concept. The baker knows the farmer and is the conduit between the field and the bakery customer. The flour used in the bakery is fresh milled and retains all its nutrients, no additives and no processing aids. The fresh baked products looked and smelled wonderful and reflected the skills of Matthew’s team.
Heritage Grain Challah, a specialty that features red fife wheat, prairie hard red wheat, egg, sugar, wildflower honey and fresh yeast, is served on Fridays.
BY
PHOTO
BAKERS JOURNAL
Brodflour bills itself as an urban mill and bakery in Toronto with a 48-inch stone mill.
P.S. The cardamom bun was tender, spicy and delicious!
Bakery tour: Costco Commissary
My second visit was to Costco Commissary in Vaughan, Ont.
There, general manager Derek Mantha, my friend and fellow board member, and a graduate of the baking and pastry program at Algonquin College, hosted my tour of the colossal and pristine 100,000-squarefoot production facility.
I was given a hygiene and safety talk and had to gown up before the walk-through. Stepping into the surprisingly cool and quiet factory I was impressed by the efficiency of the design of the production space and the state-of-the-art equipment that filled it.
A continuous line for making frozen croissants stretches for hundreds of metres horizontally and vertically taking freshly mixed dough, gently stretching and enveloping this in unsalted butter, and continuing the lamination, automatically pleating the layers, and then conveying the laminated dough through a large refrigerating system to ensure that no fermentation takes place. The chilled dough is then sheeted through automatic cutting and rolling machines. It wasn’t all automated, though, as watchful eyes made sure that no undersize or misshapen product went through to final packaging and distribution throughout Canada, the U.S. and Mexico.
Derek acknowledged every staff member he met by name (they have 200 employees!), a testament to his supportive management style.
In both Brodflour and Costco Commissary I was impressed by the atmosphere and work ethic of the staff. In one, all hands on with David Bowie in the background, in the other, quiet dedication to the technical process of a colossal machine.
My exposure to these facilities and having watched “Brot” caused me to reflect on the role of the BAC where we are committed to representing both big and small producers, believing that mutual support, understanding and celebration will position the industry to succeed despite the challenges that all bakers face.
BAC’s mission is to empower our members in providing nutritious and delicious baked goods to consumers in Canada and around the world through leading public policy, knowledge transfer and networking.
How did you become a baker? Send your story to info@baking.ca
Nature’s Path acquires a majority interest in Anita’s Organic Mill
Nature’s Path is expanding its portfolio of brands with a majority acquisition of Anita’s Organic Mill.
Nature’s Path is North America’s largest organic breakfast and snack food company and Anita’s Organic Mill is one of Canada’s most respected millers and manufacturers of organic flours, offering an extensive selection of organic baking products, the companies said in a joint news release.
“We have been a customer of Anita’s Organic Mill since 2015 and have been using their flour in some of our topselling products, like our Heritage Flakes and Flax Plus cereals,” said Arjan Stephens, general manager of Nature’s Path. “Throughout our relationship, we have been continuously impressed by the quality of Anita’s flour as well as the company’s passionate commitment to always being organic.”
Established in 1997, Anita’s Organic Mill has since become one of Canada’s most respected millers and manufacturers of organic whole-grain flours. Anita’s sources top-quality organic grain from farmers across Canada, which is then stone-milled at its facility in Chilliwack, B.C. Anita’s location also houses a retail and bulk packaging facility, as well as an on-site bakery that serves as a test kitchen for education and development.
“There are so many synergies between Anita’s and Nature’s Path,” said Jayda Smith, co-owner and general manager of Anita’s Organic Mill. “Just like Nature’s Path, we have dedicated ourselves to always being organic and non-GMO. We also share a commitment to sustainability, by making products that are good for
both people and the planet. We could not be more excited about this partnership, and the future growth it represents for Anita’s.”
Anita’s Organic Mill will retain its own distinct branding and join the Nature’s Path family of brands including Love Crunch, EnviroKidz and Que Pasa.
“For 35 years, Nature’s Path has been a trailblazer in the world of organic food,” said Taylor Gemmel, co-owner and president of Anita’s Organic Mill. “And even though it has grown to be a global success story, Nature’s Path has never deviated from its mission: to always leave the earth better than they found it. We are confident our new partnership will help take Anita’s to the next level, while staying true to our roots.”
“We love Anita’s products and truly believe in them, “Stephens said. “We look forward to making Anita’s Organic Mill a baking staple in kitchens everywhere.”
Nature’s Path Organic Foods is North America’s largest organic breakfast and snack food company and produces USDA and Canadian Certified Organic and NonGMO Project Verified breakfast and snack foods sold in grocery and natural food stores in more than 50 counktries around the world. Founded in 1985, Nature’s Path is headquartered in Richmond, B.C., and employs hundreds at its four facilities in Canada and the United States.
Anita’s Organic Mill is a national brand that produces whole-grain and innovative sprouted flours, cereals and flour blends, mixes and certified gluten-free, organic baking ingredients. Anita’s Organic has been producing organic baking ingredients in Chilliwack, B.C., since 1997.
Montreal Chocolate Academy virtual demo teaches chocolate tempering and highlights VIU’s new signature chocolate
Montreal and Nanaimo, B.C. – The Vancouver Island University Professional Baking and Pastry Arts Program, sponsor Cacao Barry and the Baking Association of Canada recently presented a virtual chocolate demonstration by instructors at the Montreal Chocolate Academy.
Master Belgian chocolatier Philippe Vancayseele, from the academy, introduced attendees to several of the distinctive chocolates made by Barry Callebaut,
including Evacoa and Ruby.
Vancayseele demonstrated his method of simplifying the potentially complex process of chocolate tempering – including in-depth crystalization techniques – to two dozen students and invited industry guests during an online session. The Chocolate 101 Class covered all five chocolates: Dark, Milk, White, Ruby and Gold.
During this session, instructors from the academy also discussed the composition and application of several new choco-
lates that are now available, including the WholeFruit Chocolate, Ruby chocolate by Callebaut and the RaRe chocolate collection by Cacao Barry.
Mark Pennington, western Canada representative for Barry Callebaut, discussed with pastry chef instructor Ken Harper the Cacao Barry “Or Noir” custom chocolate design program and detailed VIU’s participation in the program.
In partnership with Cacao Barry, VIU announced the launch of the “Spindle Whorl 70.1%” dark chocolate, a signature flavour designed by Harper and Darian Zowtuck, who won a competition in 2019 and the chance to work with Harper and Callebaut to create an Or Noir. This signature chocolate is now available at the Nanaimo Campus of VIU.
Mark Pennington, western Canada representative for Barry Callebaut, and pastry chef instructor Ken Harper discuss the Cacao Barry “Or Noir” custom chocolate design program.
Barry Callebaut flew Zowtuck to France and in their labs guided her to develop a bespoke chocolate called “Spindle Whorl 70.1%.”
The Or Noir Spindle Whorl chocolate recipe is made using 500 kilograms of dark chocolate at Cacao Barry Or Noir Laboratory in Meulan, France, said Mark Pennington, western Canada representative for Barry Callebaut.
“To my knowledge Darian is the first culinary student globally to make an Or Noir custom recipe,” Pennington said.
To learn more about the Or Noir program, visit cacao-barry.com.
Former VIU Professional Baking and Pastry Arts student Darian Zowtuck was chosen to develop a chocolate flavour profile that resulted in Spindle Whorl 70.1%. She is seen here with pastry chef instructor Ken Harper at the Cacao Barry Or Noir Laboratory in Meulan, France.
Students watch a virtual demo by Master Belgian chocolatier Philippe Vancayseele.
BAKERY SHOWCASE 2022: THE LINEUP
Below is the list of contracted exhibitors.
The 2021 event is rescheduled for April 10-11, 2022, due to the COVID-19 pandemic restrictions. Baking Association of Canada would like to acknowledge the support of the companies below during these challenging times and we are looking forward to welcoming them back to the Bakery Showcase 2022 event.
DAY 1 – SUNDAY, APRIL 10, 2022
ROOM C: 9:00 - 10:00 AM
Baking Association of Canada Annual General Meeting / Meet-and-Greet
Get up to date with the busy BAC and its work and activities on behalf of members. Meet the directors and chat over continental breakfast!
ROOM A/B: 10:00 AM – 11:00 AM
Keynote Address: Communicate Your Passion
Justine Martin will share the inspiring story of how she built on her strengths –creativity, flexibility and communication skills – to build a thriving business, Guilty Pleasures Bakery + Catering. Learn how deciding on the right opportunity at the right time can mean successfully scaling up for your custom baking business. Bring your questions for this creator, communicator and smart entrepreneur!
Trade show floor opens 11:00 AM
MAIN STAGE: 11:00 AM – 11:30 AM
Winner of Inspirational Bakery of the Year Announcement
Join Bakers Journal and founding sponsor Ardent Mills as they announce the Jake the Baker Inspirational Bakery of the Year! Congratulate our winner and get a taste of their inspiring story!
MAIN STAGE: 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM
Jake the Baker Student Cake Decorating Contest
Enter the Jake the Baker Student Cake Decorating Contest in which culinary schools compete for a cash prize!
Award-winning cake artist Justine Martin will emcee and attendees are invited to watch the next generation of bakers craft and sculpt their cakes throughout the day and be at the Main Stage at 3 PM to watch them present their creations to the judges. Winners will be announced at 4 PM!
ROOM A/B: 11:00 PM - 12:00 NOON
Adventures on the Great Canadian Baking Show
Mahathi Mundluru baked up a storm on the Great Canadian Baking Show. Mahathi shares why she entered the competition, what it’s like to bake under the tent, how she handled the special pressure that comes with competing and details of her specialties. Bring your questions for Mahathi!
ROOM C: 10:00 AM - 11:00 AM
Thriving in a Labour Shortage
A panel of experts tackle challenges for Canadian bakeries. This informative session will show you:
• How to get grants and other recuperating funds for your bakery
• How to find and keep skilled employees
• How automation can help your bakery efficient and less dependent on skilled labour
ROOM C: 11:00 AM – 12:00 NOON
Trend Talk
California Raisin Marketing Board / Peanut Bureau of Canada will present on making raisins the star of your bakery’s offerings!
MAIN STAGE: 3:00 PM
Student Cake Decorating Competition
Judging
Cheer on the student decorators – the next generation of professional bakers –as they present their creations to the judges!
MAIN STAGE: 4:00 PM
Winner of Jake the Baker Student Cake Decorating Competition announced Don’t miss what’s sure to be an exciting, emotionally charged moment when we announce the winner of our competition – a highlight on a day of many highlights!
Trade show floor closes 5:00 PM
DAY 2 – MONDAY, APRIL 11, 2022
ROOM A/B: 10:00 AM - 11:00 AM
Plant-Based Baking Primer
Jessica Nadel, owner of Beard’s Bakery in Sudbury and author of Super Foods 24/7 shares tips and strategies for making the most of plant-based baking in a nonplant-based market. If you’re a bakery or bakery-café, you need to know more about this important – and growing – shift in customer demand.
ROOM C: 10:00 AM – 10:45 AM
Educating the Next Generation
A competitive labour market is putting concerns about the next generation front and centre. Join leaders in bakery education as we tackle key questions: How is the baking industry educating the next generation of bakers? What can be done to standardize certification across Canada to make it portable for the bakers of tomorrow?
Trade show floor opens 11:00 AM
ROOM A/B: 11:00 AM – 12:00 PM
Learn Your ABCs: The Art and Business of Baking with Cannabis
In what promises to be a hot topic at Bakery Showcase, this roundtable discussion brings together experts in baking with cannabis and cannabis licensing. Pull up a chair to get these and other questions answered:
• What’s the difference between CBD and THC?
• How do you determine bud freshness?
• What are the special challenges of using it in baked goods?
• What are the regulatory hurdles when licensing to sell baked cannabis products?
• How does a bakery decide if selling baked goods containing cannabis is right for their business?
• What are the considerations when marketing your cannabis baked goods?
• And more! Bring your questions for the experts in this fascinating seminar!
ROOM C: 11:00 AM – 12:00 PM
Top 5 Trends and Opportunities for Your Bakery
Jane Dummer, Registered Dietitian, and columnist in Bakers Journal, will present a look ahead at trends baking and suggest ways you can act on these shift in the market to ensure your bakery or
bakery café thrives into the future. Known as the Pod to Plate Food Consultant, Jane collaborates and partners with the food and nutrition industry across North America.
MAIN STAGE: 11:00 – 11:45 AM Demonstration: Artisanal Bread Baking
MAIN STAGE: 12:00 NOON – 12:30 PM Demonstration: Baking with Raisins California Raisin Marketing Board/ Peanut Bureau of Canada
More demonstrations to be announced! Trade show floor closes 5:00 PM
BAKERY SHOWCASE 2022 EXHIBITORS
AB Mauri www.abmna.com
Abbey Packaging Equipment Ltd. www.abbeyequipment.com
ABI Ltd. www.abiltd.com
Abell Pest Control Inc. www.abellpestcontrol.com
ADM Milling Company www.adm.com/adm-worldwide/ canada
ADM/Matsutani LLC www.matsutaniamerica.com#
All Gold Imports www.allgold.ca
Alpha Poly Corporation www.alphapoly.com
Altro Canada Inc. www.altrofloors.comHome
AMF Bakery Systems www.amfbakery.com
Apex Motion Control www.apexmotion.com
Apple Valley Foods www.applevalleyfoods.com
Ardent Mills www.ardentmills.ca
AstroNova www.astronovainc.com
Atmosphere www.atmosphere.tv
Axiom Industrial Solutions www.axiomtrades.com
Azelis Canada www.azeliscanada.com
BakeMark Canada www.bakemark.com
Blendtek www.blendtek.com
Bunge Canada www.bunge.com
Burnbrae Farms Limited www.burnbraefarms.comen
Burt Lewis Canada Inc. www.burtlewiscanada.ca
Caldic Canada Inc. www.caldic.comen-ca
Chicago Metallic Bakeware Canada www.cmbakeware.com
Contemar Silo Systems Inc. www.contemar.com
CRS Vamic www.crsvamic.ca
Dealers Ingredients www.dealersingredients.com
Decopac www.decopac.com
Dempsey Corporation www.dempseycorporation.com
Drader Manufacturing www.drader.com
Enjay Converters www.enjay.com
Eurogerm USA www.eurogerm-usa.com
Farm Credit Canada www.fcc-fac.ca
Foley’s Candies Limited Partnership www.foleyschocolates.com
Formost Fuji Corporation www.formostfuji.com
Globe POS Systems www.globepos.ca
Gumpert’s Canada www.gumpert.com
Handtmann Canada www.handtmann.ca
Harlan Bakeries Inc. www.harlanfoods.com
Innoseal Systems Inc. www.innoseal.com
Integral HR Solutions www.integralhrsolutions.ca
Ireks North America Ltd. www.ireksnorthamerica.com
Ivex Protective Packaging www.ivexpackaging.com
JAC Machines www.jac-machines.comgb
Kwik Lok Ltd. www.kwiklok.com
Lallemand www.lallemand.com
Lesaffre Corporation www.lesaffreyeast.com
BAKERY SHOWCASE 2022 EXHIBITORS
Marsia Foods Inc. www.marsia.ca
Miwe Canada Co. www.miwe.de
Motiontek Drive Systems www.motiontek.ca
Multivac Canada CO Fritsch ca.multivac.com
Packaging Machinery Concepts Ltd. www.pmcltd.ca
Pan Glo Coatings Canada www.panglo.com
Parmalat Canada (Lactalis) www.parmalat.ca
Port Royal Mills www.portroyalmills.com
Pro-Cert Organic Systems Ltd. www.pro-cert.org
Proax Technology www.proax.ca
Proingredients www.proingredients.com
Puratos Canada www.puratos.caen
Raisin Administrative Committee www.raisins.org
Rational Canada www.rational-online.com
Redpath Sugar Ltd. www.redpathsugar.com
Rheon USA www.rheon.com
Rondo Inc. www.rondo-online.com
Sheridan College www.sheridancollege.ca
Tielman www.tielman.com
Toppings Canada www.toppings.ca
Unifiller Systems Inc. www.unifiller.com
VC999 Packaging Systems www.vc999.com
Vale Packaging Limited www.valepackaging.ca
Vantage Food www.vantagegrp.com
VEGA Instruments, Canada Ltd. www.vega.com
Vegfresh Inc. www.vegfreshinc.com
Weishaupt Corporation www.weishaupt-corp.com
Zeppelin Systems USA www.zeppelin-systems.com
Malabar Super Spice www.malabarsuperspice.com
Reiser Canada Co. www.reiser.com
Thank you for your support, see you in 2022!
THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS as of November 12th, 2021
Baking Association of Canada would like to extend their sincere appreciation to the sponsors below that have supported the Bakery Showcase event. The event is rescheduled for April 10-11, 2022, at the Toronto Congress Centre due to the COVID-19 pandemic restrictions. Baking Association of Canada would like to acknowledge the support of the companies below during these challenging times and we are looking forward to bringing back Bakery Showcase, Canada’s most important and effective baking industry B2B annual event, next year.
Platinum Sponsors
Gold Sponsors
Sponsors
Media Sponsor
Presented by
Silver
Bronze Sponsor
Premier
THE YULE LOG REINVENTED
During the holidays, pastry chefs, bakers and artisans look for new ways to impress with their festive creations and seasonal treats, bringing holiday cheers to homes.
We’re always excited to see customers celebrating this wonderful time of year with friends and family along with indulgent, decadent recipes. To support chefs in meeting today’s customers’ expectations, a tasty, fun, creative approach is to implement the 5 Colors of Chocolate.
Consumers, in general, love the classics and still want to experience tradition during the holiday celebrations. They want to celebrate with warming wintery flavours, but at the same time, they want to feel the excitement and the celebration through colours!
Based on Innova market insights 44 per cent of North American millennials agree that “chocolate products that have multiple colours and are visually interesting are more premium.”
The future of chocolate is colourful with the 5 Colors of Chocolate! In addition to the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, Ruby and Gold caramel chocolate flavours have also opened up new delicious opportunities. There’s no better way to keep customers coming back than to reimagine their favourite recipes with a colourful twist.
At the Chocolate Academy North America, coloured chocolate is irresistible to both millennials and generation Z consumers. Whether they see it on social media or in shop windows, this new coloured chocolate trend is bound to expand the already existing popularity of chocolate.
The 5 Colors of Chocolate allow you to bring an innovative chocolate experience to your store by highlighting your craftsmanship and by surprising customers with cool creations. By being a step ahead, you’ll stand out by offering a unique, yet accessible, assortment of pastries for the holidays, that are on trend for the future generation. By incorporating Ruby and Gold, in addition to the classic chocolate flavours, into your traditional recipes, you set yourself apart from standard products. The offer of different flavours and colours of chocolate is very trendy and easy to achieve.
For a classic recipe with a colourful twist, I’ve revisited one traditional sweet treat for Christmas, the Bûche de Noël, also known as Christmas Yule Log, by implementing the 5 Colors of Chocolate concept. This reimagined treat is a way to inspire other chefs, bakers and artisans to also revisit their classics and put a colourful twist to them.
Here are my professional tips and tricks on how to work with chocolate this holiday season and prepare a successful Yule Log that will delight customers, friends and family during this special occasion.
TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL CHRISTMAS LOG
• For large production it is important to increase the base
This delightful 5 Colors of Chocolate Roll Cake Yule Logs is available from Callebaut.com.
temperature to 45 C before adding the whipped cream.
• It is important to protect the logs with plastic wrap before putting them into the freezer to prevent frost from settling on the top.
• For the glaze, it is important to use a not-too-hot glaze (30-35 C) and especially to glaze the well-frozen logs.
• To have a nice velvet effect, spray your cocoa butter and chocolate mixture at 40 C on a well-frozen product.
• It is possible to spray the log with a 50 per cent chocolate and 50 per cent cocoa butter device if you do not want to use a glaze.
• In order to obtain an optimum tasting, it is advisable to take your log out of the refrigerator at room temperature at least one hour before tasting.
• Dip your knife blade in hot water to make it easier to cut the yule log.
GENERAL TIPS AND TRICKS FOR BEST RESULTS
• An easy way to make temperate chocolate is to melt it step by step in the microwave in order to reach:
o 31-32 C for dark
o 29-30 C for milk
o 28-29 C for white
o 28-29 C for Gold
o 29-30 C for Ruby
• Make sure not to add water to your chocolate; otherwise, it will harden.
• Pay attention to the quality of the ingredients to achieve a better result.
• Pay attention to the temperature of the workplace so as not to heat your preparations too quickly.
• To get the best flavour from the nuts, it is better to roast them in the oven at 160 C.
To help prepare for the holiday and special moments, try a trendy Christmas log recipe of different textures and exceptional flavours, the Chocolate, Peanut and Caramel Yule Log, that’s sure to delight customers, friends, and family (see this edition’s Bakers Formula). / BJ
CHOCOLATE, PEANUT AND CARAMEL YULE LOG
By Chef Nicolas Dutertre, The Chocolate Academy
Recipe for a log mold 46 cm long X 8 cm wide X 7 cm high
1. PEANUT BISCUIT
Dimension: 7 cm wide X 46 cm long X 4 cm high
Quantity: 400 g per log
Ingredients:
• 225 g Flour
• 135 g Icing sugar
• 140 g Peanut powder
• 350 g Egg yolks
• 100 g Sugar
Super ÉléganteFlour
• 150 g Butter
• 400 g Egg
• 150 g Sugar
Instructions:
• Sift flour, icing sugar and peanut powder.
• Whip the egg yolks with the sugar.
• Add the powder mixture.
• Add butter.
• Whip the egg whites with the sugar.
• Add to the mix.
• Pour onto a baking sheet and cook at 180 C for about 18 minutes.
• Let cool.
• Cut strips for assembly.
2. CRISPY PRALINÉ
Quantity: 150 g spread over the bottom biscuit
Ingredients:
• 30 g Anhydrous butter
• 70 g Alunga™ 41% milk chocolate
• 120 g Praliné 50% hazelnuts
• 120 g Pure paste 100% Hazelnuts
• 120 g Pailleté Feuilletine™
• 1 g Sea salt
Instructions:
• Melt together butter and chocolate.
• Add Praliné and paste.
• Add Pailleté Feuilletine™, sea salt.
3. PEANUT CARAMEL
Quantity: 300 g per log (for insert)
Ingredients:
• 140 g Sugar
• 140 g Glucose
• 300 g 35% cream
Our Super Élégante Flour features:
• Superior tolerance to lamination
• Exceptional oven development
• Ideal for pastries & croissants
The elegance of this flour, will give your baking goods a luscious appearance with a golden crust, and a flaky, crumbly, shiny texture !
• 100 g Milk
• 100 g Glucose
• 1 Vanilla pod
• 80 g Butter
• 175 g Roasted crushed peanuts
Instructions:
• Cook sugar and glucose at 185 C.
• Boil cream, milk, glucose and vanilla and pour over the previous mixture.
• Bake at 105 C.
• Let the mixture cool down and incorporate the butter.
• Add roasted, crushed peanuts.
4. PEANUT PRALINÉ
Ingredients:
• 150 g Sugar
• 50 g Water
• 40 g Glucose
• 350 g Roasted peanuts
Instructions:
• Make a caramel.
• Pour over the peanuts.
• Let cool.
• Mix in a Robot Coupe.
• Reserve until use.
5. PEANUT MOUSSE
Quantity: 800 g per mold
Ingredients:
• 100 g Water
• 35 g Gelatin mass
• 200 g Alunga™ 41% milk chocolate
• 150 g Peanuts praliné
• 450 g Soft whipped cream
Instructions:
• Boil water and gelatin.
• Pour over the chocolate and praliné.
• Emulsify.
• Let cool to 22-25 C.
• Add soft whipped cream.
6. CARAMEL CRÉMEUX
Quantity: 350 g per insert
Ingredients:
• 58 g Sugar
• 29 g 35% hot cream
• 139 g 3.25% Milk
• 25 g Egg yolk
• 9 g Sugar
• 13 g Cornstarch
• 5 g Gelatin mass
• 87 g Butter
• 1 g Fine salt
Instructions:
• Cook the sugar until a foamy caramel is obtained.
• Deglaze with the cream.
• Add the milk.
• Mix yolk and sugar.
• Cook everything until it boils. Add cornstarch.
• Add gelatin mass.
• Let it cool to 45 C.
• Add butter and salt. Mix.
7. MILK CHOCOLATE GLAZE
Ingredients:
• 75 g Water
• 150 g Sugar
• 150 g Glucose
• 100 g Sweetened condensed milk
• 70 g Gelatin mass (10 g gelatin powder and 60 g water)
• 150 g Lactée Supérieure 38% milk chocolate
Instructions:
• Cook at 103 C.
• Pour the previous mixture over the condensed milk, the gelatin mass and the chocolate.
• Mix and refrigerate.
• Before using, heat the glaze to 35 C and mix well to remove any air bubbles.
8. ASSEMBLY
Insert:
• Pour the caramel crémeux into the insert mold. Smooth edges to leave a cavity.
• Freeze for a few minutes.
• Add the peanut caramel.
• Fill the cavity with the biscuit. Reserve in freezer.
Yule log:
• Pour the peanut mousse into the log mold.
• Add the frozen insert.
• Add the biscuit in the cavity. Freeze.
Finishing:
• Unmold the log.
• Glaze with the milk
chocolate glaze.
• Decoration: add 20% crystallized milk chocolate to the peanut praline and pour into a half-tube 46 cm long. Freeze.
• Unmold the tube and pipe the caramel mousse to create relief. Use small Saint-Honoré piping tip.
• Freeze tube and spray top (200 g cocoa butter and 200 g Zéphyr™ caramel).
• Spray gold powder on the insert. Add the tube to the top of the log. Decorate.
Result: A peanut biscuit with a layer of crispy praliné and peanut mousse, with a caramel crémeux and peanut caramel insert glazed with milk chocolate and topped with peanut praliné and caramel. mousse
SECOND CHANCES
“The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” named Kurt Evans a Champion of Change, one of three unsung heroes of the hospitality sector who have taken “meaningful action” over the course of the pandemic.
Chef Kurt Evans believes you are not your worst mistake. He has put this belief into practice in many of his roles and activities in the restaurant industry.
Evans has an inspiring track record of helping spark and follow through with change. He started the End Mass Incarceration dinner series in New York City in 2018 to reduce recidivism – the tendency of a convicted criminal to reoffend – and fight mass incarceration. The dinners bring together those impacted with community members and policy makers and have raised money for bail funds, expungement clinics and charities such as Books Through Bars.
}In addition to offering employment, Down North Pizza also provides a fair wage and culinary career opportunities for re-entry citizens, teaching them how to prepare their signature Detroit-style pizzas. Employees in need of housing are offered short-term housing units rent-free for six months in the apartment above the restaurant. The goal is to give returning citizens skills they can use to re-enter society while also offering
“Be supportive on the journey – more than just a recommendation. Make those connections for people. Bring people to the table, then leave.” –Kurt Evans
them an opportunity to make and save some money.
faced by formerly incarcerated people in the restaurant and food-service industry.
“That job sparked a lot of stuff for me,” Evans said. “I was helping foster this talent of cooking.” He worked with youth coming directly from the incarceral system – “good kids.”
Down North, a “mission-led for-profit restaurant” in Philadelphia exclusively employs formerly incarcerated people – they are given first consideration in hiring – while providing culinary career opportunities with a fair wage.
Evans was able to recruit staff through his connections in the prison reform system and restaurant industry. “I knew people who were formerly incarcerated such as chef Michael Carter,” he said.
In March 2021 Evans and childhood friend Muhammed Abdul-Hadi founded Down North Pizza Philadelphia. Evans and Abdul-Hadi have family and friends who have been impacted by the carceral system, struggling to find employment even after they’ve served their time.
Evans has since moved on to a new role as with Project M.O.R.E., a business incubator that helps formerly incarcerated people and works to create an ethos to help them be business leaders in the community.
We spoke with him about his work with Drive Change, Down North Pizza and his other efforts to shine a light on the issues
They started the concept about two-anda-half years ago. “But we were lacking access to capital and business acumen. My partner, luckily, owned the building so that made it a little easier.”
“One of the hardest transitions was pretty much coming from the floor,” Evans said. “I’ve run other people’s restaurants. Trying to stay relevant in the genre of what we were doing: Detroit-style pizza.” They
were entering a market where some people weren’t familiar with the style. They played up the idea of nostalgia, associating Detroit-style with school pizza or a lunchroom pizza, square pizza.
Just being able to raise the capital was a challenge, Evans said. The Go Fund Me campaign they launched didn’t raise the amount needed but it gave them money to help start pop-ups.
“Opening pop-ups was a great way to gauge reception by the public,” he added.
}“After we opened [the Lehigh Avenue location] I just had a different mindset of the impact work I wanted to do. As we got going, I slowly stepped back. I wanted to move into a bigger space of impact.”
deplorable, you’re not your worst mistake. You can make a living and have other opportunities, we can support you.”
“I don’t think formerly incarcerated people have been overlooked, I see [them] in certain industries. The problem is the relationships within the people. In service industries it’s the power of people at the top treating
“There are good programs – food handlers and Smart Serve. Reach out to halfway houses. Be willing to take someone on.” – Kurt Evans
people on the bottom as if they have something over them.”
that is unmatched, he said.
As part of Evans’ new work with Drive Change he did Hospitality for Social Justice training, which promotes best hiring practices and being accessible to employees. A lot of restaurants have high turnover these days, he said. “That happens when you set up a system of not being accessible. Business should centre on the employees, on outward.”
To operators, Evans suggested, “There are good programs – food handlers and Smart Serve. Reach out to halfway houses. Be willing to take someone on . . . . If the situation gets good, just keep it up, spread the word to other restaurants. Give someone an opportunity to work.”
Abdul-Hadi continues as owner and CEO at Down North with executive chef Michael Carter, who developed the menu and runs day-to-day operations.
What skills and advantages do people recently incarcerated bring to an employer? “Compassion, community, camaraderie – those are the things I think about. Let them know, you’re not
They are sometimes exploited, he said, with the unspoken threat, “We can send you back to jail.”
This project has helped him understand people who’ve been in the system. “I can’t generalize put people in a box, but I do see a common thread: the undying need for redemption. Sometimes they want to show you they are not who are they perceived to be.” That need comes with a level of work ethic
He also suggests helping raise money for bail funds, getting involved in local criminal justice organizations and making connections.
“Be supportive on the journey – more than just a recommendation. Make those connections for people. Bring people to the table, then leave. That’s where my head’s been. True happiness is looking forward to something you can do and it’s satisfying.” / BJ
BOOZE CAKES MIX, BAKE, BUZZ!
Booze Cakes features step-by-step recipes for spiking delicious confections with spirits, wine, and beer. These delightfully tipsy desserts are perfect for dinner parties, potlucks, and pitch-ins!
Featured throughout are tips and tricks on baking with alcohol, serving suggestions for fun cocktail-cake parties, and yummy cocktail recipes to accompany your confections—plus a handy “Booze Meter” that tracks the total alcohol content in each of these decadent desserts Indulge yourself!
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FLAVOURS AND COLOURS FOR HOLIDAY BAKING
Colours and flavours can influence our perceptions of the world around us, from seasonal décor to food on our plates. Holidays and seasons can evoke specific moods and memories, including feelings of comfort, joy and excitement. For instance, our memories of Christmas, Hanukkah, Lunar New Year and other winter holidays are painted in vivid shades of red, green, gold, silver, white and blue. Our senses of taste and smell are primed to anticipate cozy delights like crusty breads, fruit pies, colourful cookies, decadent chocolates and crispy crackers. Inspired by these sensorial experiences of food and festivities, bakers can adapt taste and colour pairings to deliver treats both “edgy” and “sweet.”
BOLD NATURAL COLOURS
Achieving memorable colour in food applications is not easy when steering away from synthetic colours. ADM Outside Voice research finds that more than 60 per cent of consumers say they actively avoid artificial colouring in foods and beverages, including bakery items and snacks. However, colours can be sourced from ingredients like fruits and vegetables, including carrots, beets, turmeric, and many other herbs, spices and botanicals. The food industry is hungry for a naturally sourced blue that is as vibrant as synthetic colours but delivers on a cleaner product label. ADM sources its patented blue shade from the juice of the Amazonian huito fruit. It’s the only acid-, lightand heat-stable, sourced-from-nature blue colour currently on the market, and it enables colourists to achieve various tones of green, blue, purple and brown.
By applying the same ingredient at different levels, colourists can create a spectrum of shades that may influence consumer perceptions. For example, bright red icing with a cherry flavour may suggest “sweet” treats while a deeper, darker red that tastes like sour blackberry may imply a “edgy” indulgence. Both shades can be achieved using a colouring like black carrot juice. Depending on the story the baker or brand wishes to tell, tints of natural colours can be specialized for holiday dough, icing and embellishments, Valentine-molded chocolates, frosted birthday cakes and more.
Unfortunately, replacing synthetic hues with shades derived from nature is often one of the last characteristics manufacturers consider when designing new recipes and products. These replacements are not simple, and many factors can affect the appearance of colourful baked goods, such as base colours; temperature and processing conditions; pH levels, light and packaging; chemical interactions with other ingredients and shelf life. Specifically, beet juice is used often for a bold red colour, but the vegetable’s natural sugars can brown when
exposed to high heat. ADM’s Colors From Nature have been tested for bake stability, and its beet juice colouring has starches and sugars removed to improve stability as a product bakes.
LUSCIOUS NATURAL FLAVOURS
During colder months, bakers rely on rich spices of ginger, cinnamon and clove, buttery caramels, refreshing peppermint and energizing coffee for desirable flavour and colour profiles.
To replicate the nostalgic tastes of the holidays, flavour chemists and food technologists research how best to deliver those experiences through flavour and colour. Whether the flavour is delivered in dough or within an icing or topping, flavour experts design for stability and performance in the application as well as to exceed consumers’ taste expectations. Choosing the correct shade to preface and enhance flavour is not easy, but a seasoned team of product developers can pull it off in all types of baked goods with a delicate balance of science and art.
It’s often said that we eat with our eyes first, and taste is king. Bakery brands are engaging consumers by stimulating the senses with visual delights and delicious flavours. To ensure baked treats and snacks taste as good as they look, product developers can rely on an expert partner with the latest tools and technologies, formulation expertise and a full pantry of colour and flavour ingredients sourced from nature.
Whether indulgences are positioned as “edgy” or “sweet,” bakers help consumers celebrate the season and enjoy delectable eating experiences at any time of year. / BJ
Jennifer Zhou is Senior Director of Product Marketing, North America, ADM.
Bright red icing with a cherry flavour may suggest “sweet” treats while a deeper, darker red that tastes like sour blackberry may imply a “edgy” indulgence.
REDEFINING FESTIVE
The smell of cookies wafting through the kitchen, the hum of families gathering and catching up – whatever traditions you celebrate, moments like these elicit the unmistakable nostalgia and delight of the holiday season.
After a year of celebrating from afar, baking connoisseurs and amateurs alike are looking forward to returning to beloved traditions and making new memories – from trendy holiday dessert boards to storied family recipes and more gut-healthy choices.
CHARCUTERIE BOARDS GET A HOLIDAY UPGRADE
While most of us couldn’t gather in person last holiday season, we found new ways to foster a sense of togetherness. Through virtual baking and meals, we adjusted to our new normal. As we hold out hope to return to holiday pastimes and familiar traditions this year, it’s time to make up for long overdue, yet still safe, hugs and traditions – and, of course, food!
When preparing to host a holiday gathering, dessert charcuterie boards are a sure-fire way to wow and stay at the top of the nice list. Trendy options include decadent pastries paired with fruits, sweets and hot chocolate, which are guaranteed crowd pleasers. The dessert boards also score big on presentation and can cater to a wide variety of dietary needs and health lifestyles – from gluten-free pecan balls to vegan chocolate chip cookies.
When hosting a holiday gathering, dessert charcuterie boards are a sure-fire way to wow and stay at the top of the nice list.
TIMELESS RECIPES – WITH A SAVVY TWIST
There’s always something special about family recipes –scribbled on well-loved recipe cards, magazines and postcards – you can feel the generations of laughs, smiles and memories made with every bite. As consumers become more conscious of health and dietary well-being, we’re seeing a new trend with fun recipe experimentation to not only replace ingredients with plant-forward and perceived healthier alternatives but also provide unexpected benefits and unique flavour profiles. For example, combining puréed fruit and vegetables in desserts is an emerging trend, ideal for desserts like carrot or zucchini cakes. Heading into the holidays, we also expect to see more beet and chocolate cake varieties. To take ingredient savviness to the next level, try substituting a portion of your flour with chickpea or quinoa flour for added protein and unique taste.
A HAPPY (AND GUT-HEALTHY!) NEW YEAR
From Thanksgiving dinner to New Year’s Eve, we tend to (happily) overindulge – ’tis the holiday season. As we look to the anticipated New Year’s resolutions just around the corner,
many are looking to get a jump-start by making healthier holiday choices. With this in mind, we expect an increased focus on fibre, the fuel of the gut’s microbiome – most Canadians are getting only about half the amount of recommended daily intake.
Found in whole grains and whole wheat, fibre is the perfect nutrient to integrate into your holiday diet. From holiday cakes to dinner rolls, smart swaps can keep both you and your gut healthy, while fuelling the gut’s microbiome to promote a properly functioning digestive tract. Fibre also provides further physiological benefits, such as stabilizing cholesterol and blood sugar levels.
As we head into the season of celebration, joy and starting anew, baking traditions will once again serve as the “reason for the season,” uniting friends and family alike to enjoy pastimes, reinvent classics and make new memories, together. / BJ
Elaine O’Doherty is Marketing Manager (Canada), Ardent Mills.
Levi Nicoll, owner of Kootenay Bakery Café Co-operative in Nelson, B.C., told us about the organic bakery café’s
BY JANE DUMMER
HOLIDAY KITS MAKING MERRY MEMORIES
Holiday kits provide entertainment, a chance for family and friends to bond and delicious treats without starting from scratch
The holiday season is a time for celebrating traditions and entertaining. This often increases time spent in the kitchen. After almost two years of increased time spent in the kitchen, I’m thinking consumers may want to add some convenience to their holiday baking routine! As we witnessed during the pandemic, people sought comfort in activities that were familiar, were predictable and provided a sense of accomplishment, like baking.
This trend will continue, and holiday kits provide entertainment, an opportunity for family and friends to bond, plus you get something delicious in the end without starting from scratch.
Jumping on the trend this year, Dawn Foods is working with bakeries to develop Take Home Holiday Kits for their customers. An ideal product for creating incremental sales while giving families an easy way to make merry memories with less stress and less mess. “For so many families, nothing says the holidays quite like baking together, and the best part of baking is often the decorating,” said Traci Maginn, senior manager of buy/sell category marketing for Dawn Foods. “Why not offer take home kits that give families pre-baked cookies, all the decorations and tools like pastry bags? It’s fun and festive in a box – easy to grab, take home and enjoy.”
Direct-to-consumer online monthly subscription baking boxes were popular prior to the pandemic, then sales increased during the pandemic based on convenience and minimal contact. This format provides the much-needed guidance for beginners including premeasured ingredients, step-by-step instructions and baking accessories. Also, it can be an easy and convenient way for advanced bakers to try new recipes. In most subscriptions, there are holiday season editions like gingerbread eggnog cookies and pumpkin Christmas bread.
These provide an opportunity for creative bake sessions without the hassle of purchasing all the ingredients in bulk.
As consumers adapt this season to new routines in and out of the home, options to provide interactive experiences to build memories will be welcomed. Kristen Schooley, who is the catering and sales manager at Sweet Flour, an entrepreneurial online and wholesale bakery that specializes in gourmet cookie and cupcake gifts in Toronto, agrees. “We’ve always had a Cookie Decorating Kit, but once the pandemic hit, at-home activities to keep the kids entertained and companies looking to do virtual events with their teams became super popular, so we expanded our DIY line to include Cookie Cake Decorating Kits (one baked undecorated eight-inch round chocolate chunk cookie cake, three different coloured piping bags of buttercream icing and two bags of decorative sprinkles) and Cupcake Decorating Kits (six baked undecorated, filled cupcakes, three different coloured piping bags of buttercream icing, one small container each of multi-coloured sprinkles and coloured sugar, plus one small container of Smarties). Once we established the basic components and features of each kit, we adapted them to target holidays, launching Birthday, Valentine’s, Halloween, Hanukkah, and Holiday versions. Our Holiday version is available in sugar cookie or gingerbread cookie with cookies in the shapes of a
gingerbread man, a present and a tree.”
Not just for family baking, holiday kits are a creative activity for friends and corporate events. Especially as we continue to work from home, meet up remotely and have smaller in-person gatherings this holiday season. Schooley explains, “Our Cookie Kits have also been huge sellers with our corporate clients; they’ve been sending them to their teams working at home as morale boosters and to encourage team togetherness. Last season, we saw a big shift in corporate gifting, with companies moving from sending gifts to clients to sending gifts to their teams working remotely. For companies looking for a way to replace their large in-person holiday party, our DIY kits are a great option for their virtual event. Order them to arrive in time for the Zoom holiday parties, then hold virtual holiday decorating competitions.”
Holiday kits provide comfort and convenience, plus fun and entertainment during a busy season. People are starting to gather and socialize more this winter. Kits are ideal for consumers who don’t want to start from scratch but still want to spend time in person (or remotely) with family, friends, and colleagues and have baked yumminess at the end of it. / BJ
Jane Dummer, RD, known as the Pod to Plate Food Consultant, collaborates and partners with the food and nutrition industry across North America. www.janedummer.com
