S/S2020RTW AlexandraPARISCheng
RICK OWENS
Designer: RichardSaturninoOwens
BORN:November18,1961
Nationality:AmericanfashiondesignerPorterville,California.
- Owenslaunchedhisfashionlinein1994,operatingoutofastoreinHollywoodBoulevard.
- In2001Voguesponsorhisfirstnewyorkfashionshow
- In2003hemovedtoparis
- In2005Owensintroducedafurniturecollection
- In2019OwenswonMenswearDesigneroftheYearAward
INNOVATIONBRAND
- GothicMinimalist - Avant-garde - challengepublic’ssensiability - Detailedoriented - Deconstruction - Architectureinspiration - Modernismarchitect (LeCorbusier,FrankLloydWright) - Breakfree - Unconventional
FASHION FRAMEWORK - Timing: September262019 RickOwensSS20RTW - Location:Paris/ PalaisdeTokyo - (Theme)Owens’ownMexicanheritagewithcollection beingnamedafterhismother’smaidenname, “StoicTECUATL.BauhausAztecpriestessesinanArtDecoValhallafilledwithbubblesanimatedbyFantasiaeraDisney.”
SS2020-INNOVATION
ThiscollectionisreferencestoOwens’ Mexicanheritageandhismotivationto explorehispersonalheritagewasspurred fromareactiontoPresidentTrump’s fixationontheborderwall. Thecollectioniscomprisedofcolorsand cutssynonymouswithOwens’aesthetic, suchasblack,whiteandbonefloating cape-esqueshapesandoversizedcoats, butalsoseesarangeofboldnewlooks forthisseason.
Mesoamerican culture-Aztec
COLLABORATION
RickOwensalsodebuteda collaborationwithChampion, takingsportsclotheshewore inthe’70sandreinterpreting themastogas,loinclothsand briefs,whichfeatureatonal embroideredChampion“C”logo insideastar-shapedsymbol.
“IremembermycousinswearingChampion t-shirtsandshortswhenweusedtovisitthefamily inMexicointheseventies……inthisprojecthereI haveturnedthosetraditionalathleticclothesinto togas,loinclothsandunder-briefs”
COLLABORATION
Onemorecollaborationis withunitedfarmworkers associates,theyusethelogo onthechestandproceed thatwillgoonsupportthem. Rickowensrebelsagainstdonaldtrumpbycelebrating hisownmexican-americandream.
“I’vebeenmotivatedtoexploremypersonalMexicannessasareactionto theUSPresident’sfixationonaborderwall.”
FASHION ELEMENTS
I-Louis Barragan Color
Owenswasfeelingnostalgic,asitturnsout.UsingblastsofLuisBarragáncolor,folkloricsequinsandvolumeswiththegrandiosityofcouture,Owensmined hisMixtecheritage.
LuisBarraganOneofMexico'sgreatestarchitects,revolutionizedmodernarchitectureinthecountrywithhisuseofbrightcolorsreminiscentofthe traditionalarchitectureofMexico.OwensistheonlyonedesignerwhoappliedLuisBarragan’scolorpalettetoexpressthesameMexicannostalgicromance. Owensworkedhisglamsculpturalsilhouettesinhotpink,gold,rubyred,andblack.
I-Louis Barragan Color Pink:Mexicantraditionalplant-extract paint.(insectsandflowers) Red:Sunrise,Blood. Yellow:Harvest,Energy. Blue:Water,Rain. White:Change,Hope. Black:Night,Death.
II-Architectural Shape
LuisBarraganlovedtobringupthehighsaturationofcolors,andOwensneutralizedthemwithlightandshadow,flowingspringwater,andintrovertedspace, whicharetheelementsthatLuisusuallyconsidered.
Owensturnedthesearchitecturalelementsintoshapesandtextures.Thefluidityoflonghemlineswithdifferentcutsymbolizedthewater,andthesequinsare reflectivewiththelightandshadowcreatedbythebubbles,andthepalaceofTokyoprovidedtheintersectspaces,horizontalandverticallines.Thewhole runwayshowreflectedtheMexicanarchitecturalaestheticsandalsoblendedinRickOwensthrillingcinematicvibe.
II-Architectural Shape
III-Logic & Brutalism Mood
Owenshaslongacknowledgedarchitectureanditsutopianidealsasoneofhisgreatestinfluences,professingthathelooksto“thelogicandbrutalism”of architectsforinspirationfarmorefrequentlythantheworkofotherdesigners.Manyofhisready-to-wearshowshavepaidtributetospecificbuildings,spacesand Evenmovements.thoughpartoftheinspirationwasdrawnfromhisFantasiaeraofDisney,hischosenprincesswasThequeenofancientEgypt,withhugeblackheadwear showinghersupremepowerandtoweringplatformofthebootsforherstatus.Andfromalltheselooks,hecreatedaclasssystem.
HeprotestedthePresidentTrumpseeingimmigrantMexicanworkersasanimalsandcriminals,evenworse.Andhealsoimpliedhowtheculture,highandlow, shapedhisaestheticsensegrowingupinSouthernCalifornia.
III-Logic & Brutalism Mood
III-Logic & Brutalism Mood
Rick Owens
REFERENCESZEITGEIST
S/S 2020 RTW Paris
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
“POLITICAL:Thatallwouldn’tworkwithoutopenborders”
- PresidentDonaldTrumpdeclaredastateofemergencyinFebruary overthesituationattheUSsouthernborder,whichhasseenarisein thenumberofmigrantsenteringthecountry.
- "Thecollectionisnamedaftermygrandmother'smaidenname.I neverreallyexploredmyMexican-nessbutthedebateoveraborder wallmadememoreconsciousofwhoIwouldbeseparatedfrom,”"
- ThisCollectionsuggested theinseparablebondbetweenthetwo countries.
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
CROSSCULTURAL:TheAztecsCulture - AMesoamericanculturethatflourishedincentral Mexicointhepost-classicperiodfrom1300to 1521.(14C-16C) - Themodelswearingheaddressesshapedlikeatemple aremysteriousanddark,likepriestessesfroma distantdynasty. - RickOwensalsocreatedaseriesofprintsinspiredby statuesandtotemsfromtheAztecscivilization.
ART:JOSEFANDANNIALBERS
REFERENCESZEITGEIST
- German-bornAmericantextileartistsand printmakerscreditedwithblurringthelinesbetween traditionalcraftandart.
- TheyvisitedarchaeologicalsitesinMexicoand subsequentlycreatedsimplistic,modernistartworks inspiredbywhattheyfoundthere.
ART:LUISBARRAGÁN(1902–1988)
REFERENCESZEITGEIST
-
AMexicanarchitectandengineer. Hisworkhasinfluencedcontemporaryarchitects visuallyandconceptually.
- Barragán’sbolduseofcolourhasformedthecolour paletteforthiscollection.
- Owens'sclothesuselotsoftailoringtocreatea geometric,three-dimensionalarchitecturesilhouette.
- Clothingisnolongerjustfabricwrappedaroundthe body,butisstrong,sharpandindependent,intendedto breakfreefrombondage.
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
△RickOwensSpring2020,usingsignature "architecturallines"featuringKissblack leatherandinvertedpentacle.
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
POPCULTURAL:KISS
- “LarryLegaspiwasthedesignerwhocreatedtheclassic blackandsilverlookforLabelleandKissinthe'70s, andhisaestheticwasahugeinfluenceonme.”
- Kiss'smaskisaproductofcomedy,sex,kabuki,Greek tragedy...RickOwensisafanwhowantstoblendthe widestrangeofartandculture,bringingtraditionback tolifeinanavant-gardeway.
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
ENTERTAINMENT:METROPOLIS(1927)
- Modelsdressedlikefuturisticgoddesses, (sequin kaftans sharp-shoulderedjacketsmetalheaddresses) whichevokedthecostumesinFritzLang’s1927science fictiondramaMetropolis.
- Lang’santiauthoritarianmasterpiecedepictsagrim underworldpeopledbymistreatedworkers toacertain extent,alludingtothepoliticalproblemsintoday's society.
，
，
ZEITGEIST REFERENCES
ENTERTAINMENT:MaríaFélix(1914-2002)
- Anotherkeyreferenceofthiscollectionwasfromthe‘run-downMexicanmovie theatre’.
- MaríaFélixwasAMexicanfilmactressandsingerwhobecameknownsimplyasLa Doña.
- ShewasoneofthemostsuccessfulfiguresofLatinAmericancinemainthe1940s and1950sandwasconsideredasoneofthemostbeautifulactressesofMexican.
- Hersoundcouldbeheardovertherunwaysoundtrack, repeatingthephrase“Corazon,tudirasloquehacemos” (“Myheart,youdecidewhatwedo”).
TRENDFORECASTING
Accepted
-Genderfluidclothing
-Forexample,sequinanglitterwasknowntobea “glamorous”accentwornbywomen
-Iridescentcolorsisalsoinhismenswear
-Morecollection.acceptingoftheLGBTQcommunityor straightmenthatwanttoexperiment.
ss 19’
MORE EXAMPLES OF ACCEPTANCE OF GENDER FLUIDITY
TRENDFORECASTING
Accepted
-Bodypositivityandacceptanceisexpressedinfashion bybodycondressorshowingoffbodypartssuchasthe
-Dresseslegwiththelegslit
-Thebootsbeingsmoreattentiontothelowerhalfof thebody
Target
MORE EXAMPLES OF ACCEPTANCE OF BODY POSITIVITY
eNik
TRENDFORECASTING
-SomberAcceptedclothingsincenegativeviewsonpolitics canbeexpressedinfashion,music,andpop culture.
MORE EXAMPLES OF ACCEPTANCE OF SOMBER CLOTHING
TRENDFORECASTING
-TheseRejectedheadpiecesismeanttobemightbecalled outforculturalappropriatebecauseitlookslikea ancientEgyptianheadpieceorpartofapharoah’s deathmask
TRENDFORECASTING
-ExagerratedRejectedproportionsismostlikelyusedas showcaseartand“bodypositivity”butnot literally.
MORE EXAMPLES OF EXAGGERATED PROPORTIONS AS A JOKE V i k t o r & r o l f s s 1 9
PROCESSAGENCY
AGENCY PROCESS
Improve-We
learnalotofgooddetailresearchfromthisprojectfromallaspectsthat fittheguideline.
- Beingselectiveonwhichdesignertochoosefromotherthanrandomly pickingonebasedonathesthics
Innovation-Understandhowthisdesignerhasmadeimpactonsocietyortheyareable tosendamessagebyinnovation.
AGENCY PROCESS
Theresearchprocessforassignments
- Watchingrunwayvideostoseethroughthecollection’slooks,atmosphere andoverallscenario.
- Searchthedesigner'sbackgroundandsourceofhis/herinspirations,design style.
- Observethedetailsofclothingandaccessoriesandsummarizethem.
- Readdifferentfashionmagazinesandrunwayarticlestoresearchthe referencesandlearnmoreaboutdesigners'ideas.
- Discusswithgroupmembers,reviseoradddetailsandpreparethe presentation.
AGENCY PROCESS
Thedivisionoflaborwithintheagency
- Discussanddecidewhichcollectionshouldbechosen.
- Eachteammemberisresponsibleforonepartoftheassignmentandit variesfromweektoweek,ensuringthesamecontributions.
- Intheprocessoftheassignment,throughcommunicationtocomeupwith aconsistent,beautifullayout.
- Eachmemberisresponsibleforhisownpartinthepresentation.
AGENCY PROCESS
Thestrengthsandweaknessesofyouragency
- goodatresearches,layoutandhighqualitypictures - Wehavehardtimetochoosewhichdesigners - Theinnovationpartneedstobemoreindepthonwhyitisinnovative.
Whatdidyoulearn&apply?
- Goodcommunication,teamwork,publicspeaking,hardskills,andsoft skills.
CITATIONS
Phelps,Nicole.“RickOwensSpring2020Ready-to-WearFashionShow.”Vogue,Vogue,1Oct.2019, Davidson,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/rick-owens.EmmaElizabeth.“'BauhausAztecPriestesses'StormedRickOwens'Bubble-FilledSS20Runway.”Dazed,DazedDigital,26Sept. 2019, Hawkins,https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46220/1/rick-owens-ss20-paris-fashion-week-mexico-tecuatl-bauhaus-anni-josef-albers.Laura.“RickOwensS/S2020ParisFashionWeekWomen's.” Wallpaper*,Wallpaper*,27Sept. Ahmed,https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/fashionweeks/womenswear-ss-2020/paris/rick-owens-ss-2020-paris-fashion-week-womens2019,.Osman.“RickOwensExploresHisMexicanHeritage.” I,27Sept. https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/evja94/rick-owens-ss20-paris-fashion-week2019,.
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/rick-owens/slideshow/atmosphere
https://wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2020/paris/rick-owens/review/ https://www.archdaily.com/607209/spotlight-luis-barragan
https://www.archdaily.com/797992/10-fashion-collections-inspired-by-mexican-architect-luis-barragan
https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46220/1/rick-owens-ss20-paris-fashion-week-mexico-tecuatl-bauhaus-anni-josef-albers