Runway Report 2 by Alexandra Cheng

Page 1

S/S 2020 RTW AlexandraParis Cheng

Introduction

Designer: Marine Serre

BORN: 13 December 1991 Nationality: France

Alma mater: La Cambre Mode held internships working under Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, Dior and Balenciaga

- In 2017, her fifth-year graduate collection, “Radical Call for Love” won the LVMH Prize became the youngest designer ever to do so

- In February 2018, she made her first runway collection in Paris

- In 2019, She released her first men’s collection

FashionFramework - Timing: September 24 2019 Marine Serre SS2020 Women+Men - Location: Paris “Marée (“BlackNoire”Tide”in French) - Post-apocalypse Life

Innovation

- Sent out umbrellas as invitations. they’re a reminder that climate change is real

- 50% of the of this collection is made from recycled materials. the remainder is produced locally from French mills.

- Fashioned from an exquisite tapestry of vintage crochet table cloths.

- Featured a large black dog and a tiny Pomerania.

- Special Accessories: Laser necklace, Manicure.

ElementofFashion-Textile

Black leather, satin, recycled PVC and faded denim outfits, all embossed with her signature crescent motif, were made from deadstock, while curtains, bed sheets, old nightgowns, crochet tablecloths, knitted shawls, and bath towels were assembled into patchwork dresses in creamy Earth Mother tones.

ElementofFashion-Color

This season the funereal tones made perfect sense. Black jumpsuits, jackets and bags referenced both the oil that hastens environmental shifts and the shades worn by protestors, while splashes of red are an ode to drawn blood. Then white and sky blue as a smooth transition. At last, the violet and neon tiger prints as ending.

ElementofFashion-Shape&Structure

black utilitarian overalls. Leather desert-inspiredraincoats.terracotta red structured suits. dresses repurposed from old shawls, aprons and nightgowns. “Evolution and Hybridisation” as Marine said.

ElementofFashion-Mood

The weather helped, was a somber, rainy, windy morning. The music was as ominous as the setting, started with a muted thud and progressively evolving into a full-fledged electronic score. The collection was conceived as the aftermath of an apocalypse in which only a handful of people have survived devastating climate wars and mass extinction. Serre’s crescent moon logo and draped silver jewelry enlivened the depressive mood.

ElementofFashion-Film

RADIATION Movie FW19 was launched in weeks before the show. Exposured the cohesive mood, concept, and also total looks for S/S 2020. A short movie by 3D artist Rick Farin and Claire Cochran. Artistic Direction by Marine Serre.

TargetMarket

Demographic-Female age 25 - 45 - Middle & High class - Europe, America, Asia Psychographic-Socialmedia activly - Fashion Futurewearconciousdirectional

ReferencestotheZeitgeist

This collection has a very interesting mixture. This includes historical references of 70’s macrame, 1930s flapper, and new wave of the 80’s and 90s with a dark twist.

-Sends a strong message of climate change and narrates the vision of a dystopian world

-As mentioned earlier, how this collection has a dark twist. The gloomy hues represent a post -apocalyptic society. Heat waves, global warming, waste, and climate wars

-The runway catwalk is purposely covered in plastic along with shrubbery.

Environmental

Technology

-Communicating in ways to tell the audience to recycle

-Crochet or macrame tablecloth recycled as a dress.

-Since fashion is known to be wasteful, old silk garments were reused to make these runway looks

-Constant use of upcycled materials

-Sends a spiritual need to worhsip and respect nature.

Moreexamplesofupcycledmaterial

CrossCulturalReferences

WW2 MilitaryRomanian 1900’s Irish bucket hat worn by farmers

PopCultureReferences

MC HAMMER Cher from Clueless

PopCultureReferences

TrendForcasat

Recjeted

Fluffy outwear / Face covered dress - not easy to wear - avant garde - not practical

Accepted

-Jumpsuitinfinitelyone-and-doneversatile - convienet - easy to pull off
MoreJumpsuitLookfromRunway

WorksCited

“MarineSerreIsPartoftheBoF500.” The Business of Fashion,5Sept.2019, Nnadi,https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/marine-serre-1.Chioma.“MarineSerreSpring2020Ready-to-WearFashionShow.” Vogue,Vogue,24Sept.2019, Dazed.https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/marine-serre.“MarineSerre'sShowFeaturedPost-ApocalypticSurvivalWear–andCuteDogs.” Dazed,24Sept. Marinehttps://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46173/1/marine-serre-ss20-paris-fashion-week-dogs-crescent-moon-designer2019,.SerreSS20ImaginesaPost-ClimateChangeWorld.HypeBeast.24,Sept.2019 https://hypebeast.com/2019/9/marine-serre-spring-summer-2020-runway-collection-paris-fashion-week

MARINESERRESPRINGSUMMER2020COLLECTION–PARISFASHIONWEEK.TheSkinnyBeep.1October, 2019.https://www.theskinnybeep.com/2019/10/marine-serre-spring-summer-2020-collection-paris-fashion-week/ https://stylereportmagazine.com/this-edgy-jumpsuit-trend-is-everywhere/

RadiationMovieFW19,Youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EdznLHkK7M

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