ALS_No. 01

GODINA 2020., BROJ 1 • ISSUE No.1

BUSINESS • PEOPLE • EXPERIENCE

BROJ 1 • ISSUE NO.1

LUXURY TOURISM • REAL ESTATE • FASHION & BEAUTY • BUSINESS SUSTAINABILITY • BRANDING

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FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : ROB ERT GAŠP ERT

vijet se promijenio, svjetska se tržišta “traže” i planiraju korjenite promjene, tvrtke koje su donedavno planirale ekspanziju i rast bore se s budućnošću koja nikada nije bila toliko nesigurna i nepoznata. Ipak, neke su stvari i ovoj krizi ostale iste, možda i naglašenije. Kreativnost, ljudski duh, želja za napretkom i stvaranjem dodatne vrijednosti utkani su u poslovnu i kreativnu zajednicu koja je stvarala prije i tijekom koronakrize, a s još većim žarom stvarat će u vremenu koje je pred nama. I to je ta toliko potrebna snaga koju će, uvjerena sam, i ovu korjenitu promjenu prihvatiti, staviti u kontekst i iz nje stvoriti napredak.

Tržište luksuza bilo je oduvijek bastion kvalitete i povjerenja. Proizvodi i usluge u tom segmentu neprikosnoveni su primjer ljudske kreativnosti, težnje za najboljim što možemo stvoriti i dati, onoga što se ne opisuje cijenom nego iskustvom, doživljajem i kvalitetom. Baš ta snaga luxury brendova – experience neusporediv s ičim drugim – činila ju je otpornijom na krize od drugih tržišnih segmenata. U takav razvoj događaja u godinama koje dolaze vjeruju mnogi ekonomski stručnjaci. U to duboko vjerujemo i mi.

Danas, kada se svijet biznisa nalazi na prekretnici, kada mnoga stara pravila više ne vrijede, a nova su tek u nastajanju, naša je misija biti snažan partner i podrška biznis liderima, kreativcima i tvrtkama iz svijeta luksuza u stvaranju novih vrijednost. Medijskom podrškom i networkingom medijska kuća Adria Media Zagreb želi akterima industrije luksuza pružiti okvire unutar kojih mogu promovirati svoje ideje, dobre poslovne prakse i viziju koja će nakon krize povećati njihovu snagu na tržištu. I to onako kako ta industrija i zaslužuje biti zastupljena – u obliku premium magazina koji upravo držite u rukama.

Magazin Adria Luxury Society okuplja stručnjake i opinion makere, kreativnu snagu svjetskih i regionalnih luxury projekata, success stories koje pokazuju svu snagu ovoga tržišnog segmenta… Magazin je snažan vjetar u leđa i podrška akterima ove industrije, nastavak razvijanja ideje o osnaživanju industrija iz područja luksuza, promoviranja kreativnosti i vrhunske kvalitete u Adria regiji.

I vi ste dio naše priče i jedinstvenog communityja koji će budućnost dočekati snažno, kreativno i usmjereno na napredak.

Stvaran luksuz nikada nije bio ništa manje od toga!

“NAŠA JE MISIJA BITI SNAŽAN PARTNER I PODRŠKA BIZNIS LIDERIMA, KREATIVCIMA I TVRTKAMA IZ SVIJETA LUKSUZA U STVARANJU NOVIH VRIJEDNOST”

Dobro došli u Adria Luxury Society!

Izabela Vrtar, glavna urednica Adria Luxury Society

P ra t i t e n a s n a a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y.c o m t e n a I G @ a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

EDITOR’S LETTER

WELCOME

T “OUR MISSION IS TO BE A STRONG PARTNER AND SUPPORT TO BUSINESS LEADERS, CREATIVE INDIVIDUALS AND COMPANIES FROM THE WORLD OF LUXURY IN CREATING NEW VALUES”

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the world has changed; world markets are trying to redefine themselves and are planning radical transformations and companies which until recently planned expansion and growth, are ‘struggling’ with a future that has never been so uncertain and unknown. However, some things remained the same, and perhaps even more emphasized, in this crisis. Creativity, the human spirit and the desire to progress and create added value are woven into the business and creative community which created before the corona crisis, has been creating during the crisis and will continue creating with even greater passion in the time to come. And this community is the much-needed power which will also accept this radical change, put it in context and make progress out of it.

The luxury market has always been a bastion of quality and trust. Products and services in this segment are an indisputable example of human creativity, striving for the best we can create and give and an example of what is not described by its price, but experience and quality. That very power of luxury brands - an experience incomparable to anything else made this segment more resilient to crises than other market segments. Many economic experts believe in such a development in the years to come. We deeply believe in that, as well.

Today, when the business world is at a turning point, when many old rules no longer apply and new ones are still emerging, our mission is to be a strong partner and support to business leaders, creative individuals and companies from the world of luxury in creating new values. Through media support and networking, the media company Adria Media Zagreb wants to provide everyone involved in the luxury industry with a framework within which they can promote their ideas, good business practices and a vision that will increase their strength in the market after the crisis. And all this in the way this industry is worth being represented and must be represented - in the form of premium magazine that you are holding in your hands right now.

Adria Luxury Society magazine brings together experts and opinion makers, the creative force behind global and regional luxury projects, success stories that show all the strength of this market segment, etc. The magazine is a strong wind at the back and support for the partakers of this industry, continuing to develop the idea of empowering industries from the sphere of luxury, promoting creativity and premium quality in the Adria region.

And you are also part of our story and a unique community that will welcome the future with strength and creativity and focused on progress.

Real luxury has never been anything less than that!

Welcome to Adria Luxury Society!

Izabela Vrtar Editor-in-Chief Adria Luxury Society

Fo l l o w u s o n a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y.c o m a n d o n I G @ a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y

SADRŽAJ CONTENT

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| NOVOSTI_NEWS

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| V IZIJ A_V IS ION Tri ključna izazova tržišta luksuza | Three key challenges of the luxury market

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW KRISTJAN STANIČIĆ: Turizam u smjeru luksuza | Tourism going luxury

IMPRESSUM

GL A V NA UREDNICA_ EDITOR- IN- CHIEF

I ZA BE L A V RTA R i .v r t a r @ a d ria media . hr UR E DNIŠTVO_ EDITORS

M A RT I N A R A FA EL I DA N I JE LA PET R OV

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GR A FIČK I UREDNIK_ ART DIRECTOR

M A R I O C E L IN ŠČA K STR ATE ŠK A SURADNICA I KOORDINATORICA PROJEK TA STR ATE GIC ASSOCIAT E AN D PROJECT COORDIN ATO R

DUBR A V K A TO M E KOVIĆ A R A L ICA

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| STRATEGIJ A_STRATEGY Kako brending utječe na financijski uspjeh? | What effect does branding have on financial success?

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW MARKO PAŽANIN: “Za trofejne nekretnine na vrhunskim lokacijama interes uvijek postoji” | ‘There is always interest in trophy properties in top locations’

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| MODA_FAS HION Modni restart | A fashion restart

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW TED LELEKAS: “Važno je prisjetiti se da je vrijeme uvijek na strani luksuznih brendova” | ‘The thing to remember about luxury brands is that time is always on their side’

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| DIGITALNA ERA_DIGITAL ER A Figitalni cunami | Phygital Tsunami

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW JAMES CHAPPELL: Luksuz u svijetu u kojem je sve već viđeno | Luxury in the world where everything is already seen

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| PREPOZNATLJ IVOST_RECOG NIT IO N Kako svjetski gastro vodiči utječu na imidž Hrvatske | How world gastro guides affect Croatia’s image

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| TEHNOLOGIJ A_TECHNOLOGY Gorivo budućnosti - vodik | Hydrogen - the fuel of the future

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW JAN EWOUD VOS: Lekcije niche parfema | Lessons from niche perfumes

M I R E LA ČE ŠKIĆ LI D I JA M EN GE S, SA N DA SM O L J O BA ZD UL J, M I HA E L A ŠT EFEC I Z DA V AČ _PUBLI SH ER A D R I A M E D IA ZAGR E B D .O .O .

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N E BO JŠ A R O SIĆ I V A N A K RA J IN OVIĆ VOD ITE L JICA B2 B/ CUSTOM PUBLISHING ODJELA HE A D OF B 2 B / CUSTOM PUBLISHING DEPART M EN T

B L A N K A ŠIM UN D ŽA A N UŠIĆ b.s i m u n dza @ a dria media . hr Te l : + 3 8 5 1 4 4 4 4 8 4 5 DIR E K TOR PRODAJE MEDIJSKIH RJEŠENJA ME DIA SOLUT IONS SALES DIRECTOR

B R A N I M I R CE BO CI b.c e bo c i @a dria media . hr Te l : + 3 8 5 1 4 4 4 4 8 4 3 SPE C IJAL IST PRODAJE B2 B & M EDIJSKIH RJEŠENJ A SA L E S SPECIALIST FOR B2 B & MEDIA SOLUT IONS

A L E KS A N D R A GO L UBOVIĆ a . g o l u bo v ic @ a dria media . hr SPE C IJAL IST DIST RIBUCIJE DISTR IB UTI ON SPECIALIST

I N D I R A DUR A N OVIĆ i .du ra n o v i c @ a dria media . hr JUNIOR KO ORDIN ATOR PROIZVODNJE JUNIOR PR ODUCT ION COORDIN ATOR

S A N E L A RO ŠKE R s. ro s ke r @ a dria media . hr

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DINKO LUCIĆ: “Onaj tko se mijenja i unapređuje brže od drugih - stječe prednost” | ‘The one who changes and improves the fastest gains the advantage’ | ODRŽIVOST_S USTAINAB ILIT Y Savez za održivi luksuz | Sustainable Luxury Partnership

PR IJE VOD NA EN GLESKI_ EN GLISH T RANSLAT ION

L E K TU R A_ PROOF READING

| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW

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FOTOGR A F IJE I ILUST RACIJE PHOTOS AN D ILLUST RAT ION S

DR A ŽE N KO KO R IĆ, R O BE RT GA ŠPERT, S H U T T E R STO CK, PR O FI M EDI A , UN SPLA SH

| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW BRANKO ROGLIĆ: Racionalnost donosi konkurentnost | Rational thinking leads to competitiveness

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| POS LOV NI TREND_B US INES S T R END Vrijeme je za co-branding | It’s time for co-branding | INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW SAŠA ŠEKORANJA: “Luksuz, zadovoljstvo u kojem ćete kratko uživati” | ‘Luxury, a pleasure you will enjoy only for a short time’

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

ISKUSTVO OD Š E ST Z VJ E Z D I C A SIX STARS EXPERIENCE

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NEWS

Scenic Eclipse najbolji je luksuzni brod u prošloj godini, a izrađen je u pulskom brodogradilištu Uljanik. Prvi je to polarni istraživački kruzer na svijetu namijenjen izletima na oba Zemljina pola. Dugačak je 167 metara, može primiti samo 237 putnika, a zbog elegancije i sofisticiranosti kritičari su mu dodijelili šest zvjezdica. Njegovi vlasnici, australski bračni par Glen i Karen Moroney, izabrali su glumicu Helen Mirren za kumu broda kada su potkraj prošle godine isplovili iz New Yorka. Mediteranska tura - devet dana Scenic Eclipseom - po osobi stoji najmanje 57.000 kuna (8695 US). Pravi ekskluzivni doživljaj čeka goste u kabini Owner’s Suit: devet dana Mediterana za 200.000 kuna, odnosno 30.695 US po osobi. Hrvatski brodograditelji i projektanti radili su na Scenic Eclipseu četiri godine, a u riječkom brodogradilištu 3. maj gradit će Eclipse II. Projekt je vrijedan 860 milijuna eura.

NAPIS ALA_WORDS : DU B RAVK A TOMEKOVIĆ ARALICA

The Scenic Eclipse is the best luxury ship made last year, and it was built at Uljanik shipyard in Pula. It is the first polar research cruiser in the world intended for excursions to both poles of the Earth. It is 167 meters long, can accommodate only 237 passengers, and because of its elegance and sophistication it was awarded six stars by the critics. Its owners, Australian couple Glen and Karen Moroney, chose actress Helen Mirren as the ship’s godmother when they set sail from New York late last year. A Mediterranean tour, nine days

by Scenic Eclipse, costs at least HRK 57,000 ($ 8,695) per person. The real exclusive experience awaits guests in the Owner’s Suit cabinnine days of the Mediterranean for HRK 200,000, or $ 30,695 per person. Croatian shipbuilders and designers worked for four years on the Scenic Eclipse, and Eclipse II will be built in 3. Maj shipyard in Rijeka.

The project is worth 860m Euros.

| Vlasnici broda Glen i Karen Moroney s glumicom Helen Mirren, kumom broda | Boat owners Glen and Karen Moroney with actress Helen Mirren, the ship’s godmother

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

| Chopard - L.U.C. XP Mehanički zlatni sat s motivom štakora na brojčaniku oslikan japanskom tehnikom urushi

| Roberto Coin Prsten i narukvica od zlata i dijamanata

| Roberto Coin Rose gold ring and bracelet with white diamonds

| Chopard - L.U.C. XP Powered by ultra thin movement, dial hand crafted in Japan using the Urushi lacquer technique

| Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art, kolekcija znakovi kineskog horoskopa: zlatni model s ručno graviranim brojčanikom

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| Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection The legend of the Chinese Zodiac, pink gold case, handengraved dial

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Ovi glodavci izgledaju ljupko samo na luksuznim kreacijama urarskih i draguljarskih manufaktura.

Prema kineskoj astrologiji, štakor je dominantan znak, simbol inteligencije i vitalnosti, a osobe rođene u tom znaku lako se prilagođavaju svim okolnostima i rješavaju probleme svakodnevnog života. Trebala je ovo biti godina optimizma i prosperiteta, ali možda se u takvu prometne do 12. veljače 2021., dokad traje vladavina štakora. Njemu u čast majstori drevnih zanata izradili su mala remek-djela.

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YEAR OF THE RAT | Panerai - Luminor Sealand 44 mm Edicija 88 komada od čelika, sa signalnim ogledalom s unutarnje strane poklopca, gravirana tehnikom sparsello | Panerai – Luminor Sealand 44 mm Exclusive edition 88 pieces, hand decorated cover using the ancient technique of sparselllo, with a signalling mirror inside

These rodents look lovely only on the luxurious creations of watchmaking and jewellery manufactories. According to Chinese astrology, the rat is a dominant character, the symbol of intelligence and vitality and a person born in this sign is easy to adapt to any circumstances and good at solving everyday life problems. This was supposed to be the year of optimism and prosperity and maybe it could still become one by the February 12th 2021, when the Year of the Rat ends. Honouring these creatures, the masters of ancient crafts produced real masterpieces.

NAP ISA L A_W O RD S : D U BRA V K A TO ME KOV I Ć AR A LI C A

GODINA ŠTAKORA

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

MISTERIJ SPIRALE U DOLINI SATOVA Novi muzej švicarske manufakture Audemars Piguet otvoren je u Le Brassusu, u dolini planinskog lanca Jure, nedaleko od Ženeve. Stakleni paviljon površine 2500 četvornih metara nalik je na oprugu u kućištu sata, a u njemu je izloženo 300 remek-djela manufakture, čija izrada traje mjesecima. Djelo je to danske tvrtke BIG, skupine arhitekata, dizajnera i graditelja koji diljem svijeta grade impozantne građevine te lokalnog ureda CCHE. Samo jedan pogled na komplicirani satni mehanizam bio je dovoljan da Bjarke Ingels, osnivač tvrtke BIG, dobije nadahnuće za izgled muzeja te da staklena spirala poveže povijesnu zgradu i budućnost manufakture, koja već 139 godina izrađuje luksuzne satove.

NA PI S A L A _ W O R D S: D UBR A VKA TO M E KOVIĆ A R A LICA

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THE SPIRAL-SHAPED MYSTERY IN THE VALLEY OF WATCHES The new museum of the Swiss watchmaking manufactory Audemars Piguet has opened in Le Brassus, in the valley of the Jura mountain range, not far from Geneva. The 2,500-square-meter glass pavilion resembles a spring in a watch case and exhibits 300 masterpieces of the manufactory, which take months to make. It is the work of the Danish company BIG, a group of architects, designers and builders who build impressive buildings around the world, and the local architecture office CCHE. Just one look at the complicated clockwork was enough to inspire Bjarke Ingels, the founder of BIG, for the museum’s appearance, and for choosing the glass spiral to connect the historic building and the future of the manufactory, which has been making luxury watches for 139 years.

NEWS

KAKO JE NASTALA RIEDELOVA ČAŠA ZA MALVAZIJU ISTARSKU Riedel je najpoznatiji proizvođač vinskih čaša u svijetu, i to s tradicijom proizvodnje duljom od 260 godina. Ono što ih čini liderima u tom segmentu jest činjenica da su prvi otkrili kako oblik čaše utječe na okus vina koje pijemo.

U to jedinstveno društvo ušla je i jedna hrvatska sorta - malvazija istarska, za koju je Riedel kreirao čašu 2013. godine. Projekt je ostvaren zahvaljujući tvrtki Miva d.o.o., uvozniku Riedela, te nekolicini istarskih vinara. Posebnu pozornost upravo toj čaši, ali i visoko kvalitetnim istarskim vinima, nedavno je posvetio Maximilian Riedel, predstavnik 11. generacije obitelji, u live razgovorima na Instagramu u društvu vinara Franka Kozlovića i Tomislava Tuđena, izvršnog direktora Mive i koordinatora projekta čaše za malvaziju.

HOW THE RIEDEL GLASS FOR MALVASIA ISTRIANA CAME ABOUT Riedel is the most famous wine glass manufacturer in the world, with 260 years of glass making experience. What makes them leaders in this segment is the fact that they were the first to discover how the shape of the glass affects the taste of the wine we drink. In their portfolio they have glasses intended for enjoying all the most famous wine varieties including one Croatian variety - Istrian Malvasia, for which Riedel created a glass in 2013. The project was carried out thanks to the company Miva d.o.o., the importer of Riedel products, and several Istrian winemakers. Maximilian Riedel, the 11th generation head of the family business, recently paid special attention to this glass, but also to high-quality Istrian wines, in live conversations on Instagram in the company of winemakers Franko Kozlović and Tomislav Tuđen, executive director of Miva Wine Gallery and coordinator of the Malvasia wine glass project.

KOJI JE SMJER ULAGANJA U DIGITAL? Launchmetrics, vodeća globalna marketinška platforma koja pruža detaljne analize iz područja mode, luksuza i kozmetike, nedavno je objavila izvješće “The State of Influencer Marketing 2020”. Uz osvrt na krizu prouzročenu pandemijom koronavirusa, izvješće pokazuje daljnji rast ulaganja svjetskih brendova u suradnju s influencerima. Među kanalima komunikacije dominira Instagram, a u bližoj budućnosti očekuje se sve više suradnji i putem platforme TikTok, u koju planira investirati 55% brendova, i to većinom u suradnji s influencerima.

WHAT IS THE FUTURE DIRECTION OF INVESTING IN DIGITAL? Launchmetrics, a leading global marketing platform which provides in-depth analysis in the areas of fashion, luxury and cosmetics, recently published a report named “The State of Influencer Marketing 2020”. Taking into account the crisis caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the report shows further growth in global brand investment in cooperation with influencers. Instagram dominates the communication channels, and in the near future more cooperation is expected through the TikTok platform, which 55% of brands plan to invest in, mostly in cooperation with influencers.

INVESTICIJE BRENDOVA U SURADNJE S INFLUENCERIMA U PRVOJ POLOVICI 2020.

BRAND INVESTMENTS IN COOPERATION WITH INFLUENCERS IN THE FIRST HALF OF 2020

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

NOVA RAZINA VOŽNJE Ljubitelje adrenalina oduševila je nova hit-igračka električni jetboard. Spoj sofisticirane tehnologije i adrenalina omogućuje neograničenu slobodu izbora u istraživanju prirodnih ljepota, a zahvaljujući bateriji koje je dostatna za otprilike 45 minuta ludog "jahanja" vodom, svatko može uživati na svoj način - zadržavajući se u svojoj sigurnoj zoni ili pomičući vlastite granice.

Jedinstveni električni pogon s patentiranom baterijskom tehnikom omogućuje postizanje brzine do 55 km/h, i to već u četiri sekunde.

Ovom ljepotanu zamjeraju samo nešto veću masu, 35 kilograma, ali ona omogućuje stabilno surfanje. Cijena: 18.900 eura.

A NEW LEVEL OF RIDING WAVES

BLOCKCHAIN SVE VAŽNIJI

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Čak 40% tehnoloških tvrtki koristi blockchain u svom poslovanju te, što je još važnije, u njih čak devet od deset smatraju da će ta tehnologija postati još važnija u sljedeće tri godine. Rezultati su to istraživanja revizorske kuće Deloitte provedenog u veljači ove godine u 14 zemalja.

Istraživanje je pokazalo da su u tvrtkama svjesni važnosti te tehnologije koja se temelji na ideji da se digitalne informacije razmjenjuju između svih "čvorova" koji sudjeluju u nekom sustavu jer je čak 83% njih svjesno da će izgubiti prednost u odnosu na konkurenciju ako ne prigrle takav način poslovanja. Njih 82% u idućih 12 mjeseci planira zapošljavati ljude koji imaju znanje o blockchainu.

Adrenaline lovers are thrilled by the new hit gadget - the electric jetboard. The combination of sophisticated technology and adrenaline allows unlimited freedom of choice in exploring natural beauty, and thanks to a battery which allows about 45 minutes of crazy riding in the water, everyone can enjoy it their own way - staying in their safe zone or pushing their own boundaries. The unique electric drive train together with patented battery technology allows you to reach speeds of up to 55 km / h, in just four seconds. This beauty is only criticized for its slightly larger weight, 35 kilograms, but it allows stable surfing. Price: € 18,900

BLOCKCHAIN BECOMING INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT As many as 40% of technology companies use blockchain in their business and, more importantly, 9 out of 10 of them believe that this technology will become even more important in the next three years. These are the results of a survey by the auditing company Deloitte conducted in February this year in 14 countries. The research has shown that companies are aware of the importance of this technology, which is based on the idea that digital information is exchanged between all the nodes involved in a system, because 83% of them are aware that they will lose competitive advantage if they don’t embrace such a way of doing business. In the next 12 months 82% of them plan to employ people who have knowledge of blockchain.

NEWS

N AP IS AL E_ W O RD S : MA RTI N A R AFA EL I , DA NI J E LA PE T ROV

FOTOGR AFIJE_PHOTOS : P ROFIMEDIA , SHU TTERSTOCK, PRESS

Z VJ E Z D I C E ST I G L E I U SLOVENIJU Službenom dodjelom Michelinovih zvjezdica sredinom lipnja i Slovenija je zauzela zasluženo mjesto na svjetskoj gastro sceni. Prema odluci Michelinovih inspektora, pet je restorana zaslužilo 1*, a to su: Hiša Denk (chef Gregor Vračko), Gostilna pri Lojzetu (chef Tomaž Kavčič), Vila Podvin (chef Uroš Štefelin), Dam (chef Uroš Fakuč) i Atelje (chef Jorg Zupan). Čak dvije zvjezdice dodijeljene su restoranu Hiša Franko iz Kobarida koji vodi proslavljen chef Ana Roš. Ona je 2017. proglašena najboljim chef na svijetu, a njezin se restoran trenutačno nalazi na 38. mjestu popisa The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Gwendal Poullennec, međunarodni direktor Michelinova vodiča, na dodjeli je istaknuo: "Ovom objavom Michelinov vodič potvrđuje da Slovenija ima savršen rezultat dostojan pozicije vrhunske svjetske gastronomske destinacije. Naši su inspektori oduševljeni raznolikošću, ali i visokim mogućnostima.

Uz utjecaj raznolikih terroira, talent i kreativnost chefova te iznimnu kvalitetu domaćih proizvoda i fokus na održivost, Slovenija je dom restorana koji u potpunosti zaslužuju biti otkriveni.” Slovenija i Hrvatska zasad su jedine zemlje u regiji s Michelinovim zvjezdicama.

STARS FOR SLOVENIA With the official Michelin star awards ceremony in mid-June, Slovenia also took its rightful place on the world gastronomic scene. According to the decision of Michelin inspectors, five restaurants were awarded with one star each: Hiša Denk (chef Gregor Vračko), Gostilna pri Lojzetu (chef Tomaž Kavčič), Vila Podvin (chef Uroš Štefelin), Dam (chef Uroš Fakuč) and Atelje (chef Jorg Zupan). And two stars were awarded to the restaurant Hiša Franko from Kobarid, run by the famous chef Ana Roš. She was named the best chef in the world in 2017, and her restaurant is currently ranked 38th on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. At the ceremony, Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide, said: “With this announcement, the Michelin Guide confirmed that Slovenia is worthy of the position of the world’s top gastronomic destination. Our inspectors were delighted with the diversity, but also with its high possibilities. With the influence of diverse terroirs, talent and creativity of chefs, an exceptional quality of domestic products and a focus on sustainability, Slovenia is home to restaurants which rightly deserve to be discovered.” Slovenia and Croatia are currently the only countries in the region with Michelin stars.

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| Restoran Hiša Franko Ane Roš slavni Michelin odlučio je nagraditi čak dvjema zvjezdicama | Restaurant Hiša Franko and its owner Ana Roš have been awarded by Michelin with two stars

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

CASTELLO

DI

SEMIVICOLI

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he social distancing imposed by the health emergency has led many to rethink the traditional concept of holidays. The opportunity of a local tourism arises for people to rediscover the beauty and the charm of the Italian region of Abruzzo. Castello di Semivicoli, the wine resort restored by the Masciarelli family, has reopened its doors to offer visitors a new and stimulating experience.

Halfway between the Adriatic coast and the Maiella massif, nestled in the greenery of the Theatine hills at an hour and a half driving distance from Rome, Castello di Semivicoli encompasses a dimension of hospitality, wellbeing, and good living, increasingly rare today. Thanks to its 8,000 square meters of garden and 300 square meters of poolside, it offers a safe and hospitable environment, combining nature to great food and wine.

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The entire program of activities for 2020 has been revised in compliance with Covid regulations and is focused on the concept of “natural distance” with a wide range of outdoor events in the garden, vineyards or by the pool. The Masciarelli green hotel offers all-inclusive services including shuttle to/from Pescara airport, baby-sitting and bike rental, tastings with local organic dishes, personalized cooking classes, yoga and wellness treatments in the vineyard and by the pool, en plein air brunches and aperitifs with live music, as well as the possibility to choose the castle as a wedding destination for boutique micro-weddings.

La Tavola di Gianni, the temporary summer restaurant, will be the protagonist of the many outdoor tastings guided by expert sommeliers, where guests can enjoy Masciarelli wines and local organic delicatessen. In fact, the keyword here has always been sustainability: Castello di Semivicoli has been affiliated to the Eco World Hotel booking engine since the very first day, and was the first Abruzzo structure to achieve the European EMAS certification.

THE BEAUTY OF SAFETY

| Masciarelli family estate in Abruzzo, Italy

BUSINESS & PEOPLE BUSINESS PERSPECTIVE AND STORIES OF SUCCESS

BRANKO

ROGLIĆ

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

“RACIONALNOST DONOSI 16

KONKURENTNOST” PREDSJEDNIK NADZORNOG ODBORA I VLASNIK D I ST R I B U T E R S K E T V R T K E O R B I C O G R U PA , KO J A POSLUJUĆI U 20 ZEMALJA OSTVARUJE PROMET OD 2,3 MILIJARDE EURA, GOVORI O PODUZETNIŠTVU U KRIZI, BUDUĆNOSTI MODERNE DISTRIBUCIJE TE ODNOSU S OBITELJI I SURADNICIMA ZBOG KOJIH JE, KAKO N A P O M I N J E , N J E G O V A K O M P A N I J A T O L I K O U S PJ E Š N A R A Z G OVA R A LA _I N TERV IEWED BY: DU B RAVK A TOMEKOVIĆ ARALICA FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO S: D R A ŽEN KOKORIĆ I PRIVATNI ALB U M_P RIVATE ALB U M

INTERVJU • A STORY OF SUCCESS

RATIONAL THINKING LEADS TO

COMPETITIVENESS

BRANKO ROGLIĆ, THE OWNER AND THE CHAIRMAN OF THE S U P E R V I S O RY B O A R D O F T H E D I ST R I B U T I O N C O M PA N Y O R B I C O G R O U P, W H I C H O P E R A T E S I N 2 0 C O U N T R I E S W I T H A T U R N O V E R O F € 2 . 3 B I L L I O N , TA L KS A B O U T E N T R E P R E N E U R S H I P I N A T I M E OF CRISIS, THE FUTURE OF MODERN DISTRIBUTION AND THE R E L A T I O N S H I P W I T H H I S F A M I LY A N D A S S O C I A T E S , W H I C H , A S H E S AYS, M A K E S H I S C O M PA N Y S O S U C C E S S F U L

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| Branko Roglić s članovima Uprave Orbica (gore lijevo): Jure Tršan, CEO; Alexandrina Marinova; COO za FMCG poslovanje; Romina Orešković, CFO, i Irena Novinec, COO za Beauty poslovanje; u Umjetničkom paviljonu 2017. na izložbi Zbirka Roglić (gore desno); s britanskom princezom Anne (lijevo); tri počasna konzula iz obitelji Roglić: Stjepan, počasni konzul Rumunjske; Josip, počasni konzul Poljske, i Branko, počasni generalni konzul Slovenije | Branko Roglić with the members of the Orbico Management Board (top left): Jure Tršan, CEO; Alexandrina Marinova, COO for FMCG; Romina Orešković, CFO and Irena Novinec, COO Beauty; at the Roglić Collection exhibition that took place at the Art Pavilion in 2017 (top right); with British Princess Anne (left); three honoray consuls from the Roglić family: Stjepan (Romania), Josip (Poland) and Branko (Slovenia) (right)

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išak vrijednosti koji svako poduzeće mora generirati služi za održavanje njegove dugoročne stabilnosti: redovito plaćanje radnika i dobavljača, obnovu tehnologije, održanje dobrog bonitetnog rejtinga te premoštenje eventualne krizne situacije. Uspješno poduzetništvo ne čine skupi statusni simboli nego racionalnost, jer ona donosi konkurentnost - kaže Branko Roglić (76), predsjednik Nadzornog odbora i vlasnik distributerske tvrtke Orbico grupa koja posluje u 20 zemalja. Njegov zagrebački ured već se 30 godina nalazi na istome mjestu. Jednostavno namješten, ispunjen je umjetninama Kršinića, Kožarića, Becića, Gojaka, Trepšea, Price, Diminića, Motike, Radovanija, Kuzme Kovačića i mnogih drugih autora čija djela pasionirano prikuplja još od studentskih dana. U kolekciji ima više od 800 slika i skulptura raspoređenih po uredima Orbica te u kući i stanovima obitelji Roglić. Na posao dolazi prije osam, za dobru energiju popije sirutku, aloe veru i jogurt, godišnje automobilom prijeđe sedamdesetak tisuća kilometara, a Jeepovim terencem upravlja sam. Svoj uzbudljivi život i postignuća sabrao je u bogato ilustriranu autobiografiju na petstotinjak stranica, koja bi uskoro trebala izići. Dinamičan, direktan i duhovit, posao ne mistificira, a osobito se raznježi kada govori o supruzi Vjeki, trojici unuka i tri unučice te - ribarenju.

Prošla je poslovna godina za Orbico bila vrlo uspješna, kakve su vaše projekcije prihoda nakon rezultata prvog kvartala stresne 2020. godine?

T

he surplus value that every company must generate serves to maintain its long-term stability: regular payments to workers and suppliers, investing in technology, maintaining a good credit rating and overcoming a possible crisis situation. Successful entrepreneurship is not about expensive status symbols but about rationality, because it leads to competitiveness“, says Branko Roglić (76), the owner and the Chairman of the Supervisory Board of the distribution company Orbico Group, which operates in 20 countries. His Zagreb office has been at the same address for 30 years. Simply furnished, it is filled with works of art he has been passionately collecting since his student days, including works by Kršinić, Kožarić, Becić, Gojak, Trepše, Prica, Diminić, Motika, Radovani, Kuzma Kovačić and many other artists. The collection includes more than 800 paintings and sculptures displayed in the offices of Orbico and in the house and apartments of the Roglić family. He still comes to work before eight, drinks whey, aloe vera and yoghurt to get energized. He also travels seventy thousand kilometres a year and drives a Jeep SUV on his own. He compiled his exciting life and achievements into a richly illustrated autobiography of five hundred pages, which should be published soon. Dynamic, direct and witty, he does not mystify the work and gets especially soft when he talks about his wife Vjeka, three grandsons and three granddaughters and also- fishing.

Since last year was a very successful business year for Orbico, what are your revenue projections after the results of the first quarter of the stressful year 2020?

Last year we had a turnover of € 2.38 billion and EBITDA of about € 40 million.

Margins are small so the profit is lower, but it is always there. If you are rational in your spending, your future will not be uncertain. Of course, everyone wants to have a bit higher salary. Currently, our average net salary is 9,100 Kuna. In Croatia we employ 1,200 people, and in the rest of the world another 8,100 people. Last year, we took over Interbrands, Romania’s largest consumer goods distributor, which opened up the prospect of a turnover of over three billion euros this year. I couldn’t even dream of it thirty years ago when I opened the first Orbico in Glarus, Switzerland, with my savings of 60,000 German marks. But, the crisis is taking its toll now. In the first quarter of 2020 everything was going as planned.

Lani smo ostvarili promet od 2,38 milijardi eura i EBITDA oko 40 milijuna eura, marže su male, pa je i profit manji, ali uvijek je tu. Ako ste racionalni u svojoj potrošnji, budućnost vam neće biti neizvjesna.

Dakako, svi žele imati malo veće plaće. Trenutačno je kod nas prosječna neto plaća 9100 kuna, u Hrvatskoj zapošljavamo 1200, a u ostatku svijeta još 8100 ljudi. Prošle smo godine u Rumunjskoj preuzeli tvrtku Interbrands, što nam je otvorilo perspektivu da u ovoj godini ostvarimo promet iznad tri milijarde eura. Nisam to mogao ni sanjati kada sam prije trideset godina s ušteđevinom od 60.000 njemačkih maraka otvarao prvi Orbico u Glarusu u Švicarskoj. No kriza nosi svoje. Mi smo i u prvom kvartalu 2020. bili na planu. U drugom nas je, kao i sve ostale, pogodila pandemija pa očekujemo pad prometa od desetak posto. Hoćemo li takav pad zadržati do kraja godine ili možda ispuniti plan, ovisi o razvoju sezone.

Kako je pandemija utjecala na opskrbu i promet robnih marki koje na europsko tržište dolaze posredstvom Orbicovih tvrtki?

U svih 20 država u kojima poslujemo pandemija je znatno utjecala na gospodarstvo, naročito na ponudu i potražnju te logistiku. No prioritet je bio zaštititi ljude, a poslovanje postaviti uz najmanje poremećaja.

Zatvaranje državnih granica, nemogućnost rada u poduzećima (lockdown) te opće mjere zaštite naših zaposlenika i mjere na prodajnim mjestima svakako su se morale odraziti na promet kompanije. Najmanji je bio pad robe široke potrošnje jer su posrijedi svakodnevno potrebni artikli, no posebno je bio pogođen plasman kozmetičkih proizvoda, koji je pao ispod polovice normalnog prometa, te turizam.

Međutim, već u svibnju se osjetio oporavak. U ovom segmentu poslovanja očekujemo znatno povećanje plasmana putem e-commercea u odnosu na klasičan način prodaje u trgovinama. Optimizma nam ne nedostaje. Mi smo u pandemiji promptno reagirali protumjerama smanjujući troškove te vodeći računa da integracijom tvrtki zadržimo što više radnih mjesta i nastavimo dugoročno održivo poslovanje. Što je Orbicu donijela digitalizacija, intenzivirana posljednjih mjeseci?

Orbico je digitalizaciju i e-commerce poslovanje započeo još prije dvije godine pa pozitivan utjecaj osjećamo već danas. Novi način razmišljanja i moguć-

In the second quarter, we were hit by the pandemic, just like everyone else, so we expect a decline in turnover of about ten percent. It will depend on the tourist season whether we such a decline will maintain until the end of the year or perhaps things will go as planned.

How has the pandemic affected the supply and turnover of brands coming to the European market through Orbic’s companies?

In all 20 countries in which we operate, the pandemic has significantly affected the economy, especially through supply and demand and logistics. But the priority was to protect people and set up business with the least disruption. The closing of state borders, the inability to work in companies due to lockdown and general measures to protect our employees and measures at stores certainly had to affect the company’s turnover. The smallest drop was in consumer goods, as items were needed on a daily basis, but the placement of cosmetic products, which fell below half of normal turnover, and tourism were particularly affected. However, the market started to recover in May. In this business segment, we expect a significant increase in placing goods via e-commerce in comparison with the classic way of selling in stores. We do not lack optimism. In the pandemic, we reacted promptly with countermeasures by reducing costs and trying to save as many jobs as possible by integrating companies and to continue long-term sustainable business.

What impact did digitalization, which was intensified in recent months, have on Orbico?

Orbico started digitalization and e-commerce two years ago, so we can already feel the positive impact today. A new way of thinking and the ability to communicate via Teams or Zoom will significantly reduce travel costs and increase the speed of decision making. In addition, a big amount of work will be done by people from their homes, so we will not need numerous offices and real estate investments. In the future, distribution will increasingly become a logistics service.

How does Orvas, another company of yours dealing with luxury villas, hotels and smaller boats, do business in these times?

At Orvas, a tourism company, we have to use government support measures because our turnover is rather low. I hope that tourism will start in July and that we will end the year with 40 percent of the turnover we had last year. With government support measures, we hope to end the business year with ‘positive zero’ economic profit. If the measures are not enough, we will help ourselves with a loan or the sale of a property or a boat. We founded the company Orvas in 1992 because we saw a perspective in tourism - we started with one boat, and today we have 40 of them. And by the way, I have never stepped on any of them.

What kind of boat do you steer?

The fishing boat, Boston Whaler with a length of 8.90 meters. I bought a used one in 2003 and thoroughly renovated it last year. At first I wanted to buy a new one, but I was shocked to see that it costs $ 360,000. Then I hired a friend Zlatan Zoričić, who inspected my old boat and said that its shell was perfect, that it was unsinkable. He polished it, cleaned it and removed the 20-year-old installations and engines on it, and replaced the old devices with new ones. Now it looks like new, and it all cost me € 50,000. And the boat has a soul.

HOĆEMO LI PAD PROMETA OD DESETAK POSTO ZADRŽATI DO KRAJA GODINE ILI MOŽDA ISPUNITI PLAN, OVISI O RAZVOJU SEZONE IT WILL DEPEND ON THE TOURIST SEASON WHETHER THE CURRENT DECLINE IN TURNOVER OF ABOUT 10 % WILL MAINTAIN UNTIL THE END OF THE YEAR OR PERHAPS THINGS WILL GO AS PLANNED

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| Zagrebački ured Branka Roglića već se 30 godina nalazi na istome mjestu, a ispunjen je umjetninama iz njegove bogate kolekcije | Branko Roglić's Zagreb office has been at the same address for 30 years, and is filled with works of art from his rich collection

LJUDI I MOJ ODNOS S NJIMA ZA MENE SU NAJVEĆA VRIJEDNOST OVE TVRTKE. NAŠA JE VEZA ČVRSTA, SVI ONI IMAJU MOJ BROJ I MOGU ZATRAŽITI POMOĆ THE PEOPLE AND MY RELATIONSHIP WITH THEM ARE THE GREATEST VALUE OF THIS COMPANY FOR ME. OUR CONNECTION IS FIRM THAT THEY ALL HAVE MY PHONE NUMBER AND CAN ASK FOR HELP

nosti komuniciranja putem Teamsa ili Zooma znatno će smanjiti troškove putovanja te povećati brzinu donošenja odluka. Osim toga, dobar dio radnih mjesta ljudi će pokrivati iz svojih domova pa nam neće trebati brojni uredi i investicije u nekretnine.

Distribucija će u budućnosti sve više postati logistička usluga, odnosno servis.

Do you often go fishing?

Kako u ovim vremenima posluje vaša tvrtka Orvas, u čijem su sastavu luksuzne vile, hoteli i manji brodovi?

What sport did you train in your youth?

Kod tvrtke Orvas, koja se bavi turizmom, moramo koristiti Vladine mjere pomoći jer nam je promet simboličan. Nadam se da će turizam početi u srpnju te da ćemo godinu završiti sa 40 posto prometa kakav smo imali prošle godine. Uz mjere Vlade godinu ćemo zatvoriti s pozitivnom nulom. Ako nam mjere ne budu dovoljne, pomoći ćemo si kreditom ili prodajom neke nekretnine ili broda. Poduzeće Orvas osnovali smo 1992. godine jer smo u turizmu vidjeli perspektivu - počeli smo s jednim brodom, a danas ih imamo 40. Usput, ni na jednom od njih nisam nikada bio.

Kakvim brodom vi upravljate?

Ribarskim, Boston Whalerom od 8,90 metara. Kupio sam polovni 2003. i prošle ga godine temeljito obnovio. Prvo sam htio kupiti novi, no šokirao sam se kada sam vidio da košta 360.000 dolara. Onda sam angažirao prijatelja Zlatana Zoričića, koji mi je pregledao stari brod, zaključio da mu je školjka savršena, da je nepotopiv, ispolirao ga, očistio te na njemu promijenio instalacije i motore stare 20 godina, a stare uređaje zamijenio novima. Sada izgleda kao novi, a to me je ukupno stajalo 50.000 eura. I ima dušu.

I go to Makarska almost every weekend and go fishing with my childhood friends. My boat is full of fishing equipment. My friend Rato Tvrdić and I set sail around five or half past five and fish until 11, which is great for physical fitness.

You are on your feet since early morning, you never rest because if you catch about seventy fish, you have to squat and take it off the hook every time. That’s gymnastics.

I played football in Hajduk. I went to tournaments in Opatija and San Remo with the juniors. I played it until I was 19 and then I got kidney inflammation and my father forbade me to play any further. I started my studies and graduated from the Faculty of Electrical Engineering in Split back when it was still part of the University of Zagreb.

Did your parents influence your choice of occupation?

They did not. I was always independent. We are originally from Župa, from the hinterland of Makarska, where my parents come from. My paternal grandfather›s family lived in Split and he was a post office clerk. When the Italians occupied Split in 1941, my grandpa Stjepan did not want to sign loyalty to the Italian king, which was required of him in order to keep his job, but moved the whole family to Makarska. My father met my mother there. I was born in 1943. We lived in Makarska until my third grade of primary school, and then my father got a job on the construction of the port of Ploče (Kardeljevo), so we moved there. When the construction of the Peruća Dam started, my father got a job at the Dalmatian hydroelectric power plants, so we moved to Split. I was the fifth grade then.

When did you discover you had the entrepreneurial spirit in you?

In the third year of my studies, I opened a TV repair service with my colleague Pero Mandić. Black and white televisions often broke down because they were tubular rather than transistor. There were only two factories in former Yugoslavia at that time - RIZ Zagreb and EI Niš. Our business took off great. I was so carried away that I put off 15 untaken exams for a long time. Then I said to myself- that was enough. I started studying again and finished my studies. My thesis was about a stereo amplifier, 2x10 W fully transistor, for which I got a very good grade.

Često ribarite?

Did your first job meet your expectations?

Gotovo svaki vikend idem u Makarsku i ribarim sa svojim društvom iz djetinjstva. Brod mi je pun pribora. Moj prijatelj Rato Tvrdić i ja isplovimo oko pet, pola šest i lovimo do 11, što je odlično za fizičku kondiciju. Na nogama ste od ranog jutra, nikada ne mirujete jer ako ulovite sedamdesetak riba, svaki put morate čučnuti i skinuti je s udice. To je gimnastika.

Besides having good grades, the fact that Professor Jurić invited me to come to work at IRET after completing my military service was important. So after the army I got a job in the electroacoustics development. After a year, due to circumstances, the director appointed me the head of the procurement department, and soon he added sales to that service, so I became acting commercial director. This was the time of the Croatian Spring, when young people supported Mika Tripalo and Savka Dabčević and wanted greater independence of Croatia in relation to Serbia. As a commercial director, I joined the Party on October 1, 1971, but on December 1 of the same year, Tito removed Mika and Savka at a meeting in Karađorđevo and they started expelling those of us who joined the Party in that wave. I was expelled in mid-January 1972. After being expelled from the Party,

Što ste trenirali u mladosti?

Igrao sam nogomet u Hajduku. S juniorima sam odlazio na turnire u Opatiju i San Remo, igrao sam

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do 19. godine, a onda sam dobio upalu bubrega i otac mi je zabranio da igram dalje. Uhvatio sam se knjige i diplomirao na Elektrotehničkom fakultetu u Splitu, dok je još bio dio Zagrebačkog sveučilišta.

Jesu li vam roditelji sugerirali izbor zanimanja?

Nisu. Uvijek sam bio samostalan. Podrijetlom smo iz Župe, iz zaleđa Makarske. Obitelj djeda po ocu živjela je u Splitu, bio je činovnik u pošti. Kad su prema Rimskim ugovorima Talijani 1941. okupirali Split, djed Stjepan nije htio potpisati lojalnost talijanskom kralju, što se od njega tražilo kako bi zadržao radno mjesto, nego je cijelu obitelj preselio u Makarsku. Otac je ondje upoznao moju majku, gdje sam se i rodio 1943. godine. U Makarskoj smo živjeli do mojeg trećeg razreda osnovne škole, a onda je otac dobio posao na izgradnji luke Ploče (Kardeljevo) pa smo se tamo preselili. Kada je počela gradnja brane Peruće, otac je dobio posao u Dalmatinskim hidroelektranama pa smo se preselili u Split. Tada sam išao u peti razred.

Kada ste u sebi otkrili poduzetnički duh?

Na trećoj godini studija otvorio sam s kolegom Perom Mandićem servis za popravak televizora.

Tadašnji crno-bijeli televizori često su se kvarili jer su bili cijevni, a ne tranzistorski. U Jugoslaviji su tada postojale samo dvije tvornice - RIZ Zagreb i EI Niš. Posao nam je odlično krenuo, toliko me je zanio da sam dugo vukao 15 nepoloženih ispita. Onda sam si rekao, dosta je. Uhvatio sam se knjige i završio studij, a diplomski rad bio mi je o stereo pojačalu, 2x10 W potpuno tranzistorskom, za koji sam dobio vrlo dobru ocjenu.

Je li prvo zaposlenje ispunilo vaša očekivanja?

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Uz dobre ocjene, bilo je važno što me je profesor Jurić pozvao da nakon odsluženja vojnog roka dođem raditi u IRET. Tako sam nakon vojske dobio zaposlenje u razvoju elektroakustike. Nakon godinu dana stjecajem okolnosti direktor me je postavio za šefa nabavne službe, a ubrzo je toj službi dodao prodaju pa sam postao v.d. komercijalnog direktora. To je bilo

where I have not even yet received a membership card, I was removed from the position of commercial director. I worked as a clerk for two and a half years, and my wife Vjeka, although she was an excellent student, was unable to find a job after graduation. For four years she sent applications to job tenders and was rejected each time. I got a job in 1975 at Croatia batteries. I was hired there by the commercial director mr. Vice Mimica, to the position of head of the representative office in Split. We represented the company VARTA in Yugoslavia. After a couple of years, VARTA expanded our representative office to Bulgaria. The idea to move the production of flashlights from Germany to Zagreb enabled us to export them and import all types of batteries that we did not produce. Thus, we increased our market share to 80%, which is unthinkable today.

So VARTA and flashlights changed your life?

At VARTA, I met Emil Byra, a man who fled to Germany in 1968 after the Russians occupied Czechoslovakia with tanks. We became friends, so I suggested that we open a company in Switzerland with my savings of 60,000 German marks, which we did. Namely, I realized that socialism was on the verge of collapse and I wanted to prepare in time for the events that followed. I named the company Orbico (Roglić Branko and company) so we started trading between Germany, Slovenia and Bulgaria. With the fall of the Berlin Wall, Prime Minister Ante Markovic came to power in Yugoslavia, enabling the establishment of private companies. Thus, on March 1, 1990, I founded the second Orbico on the ruins of Unis Elkos in Ljubljana, the first one in the former Yugoslavia.

Are there any associates who have been working with you since then?

Of course there are. I am very proud of them. These are number 4 and number 12.

What do those number mean?

The person who came fourth, Mirjana Nižetić Labetić, is the director of tourism company Orvas in Split today and number 12 is Irena Novinec, a member of the Board of Directors in charge of everything to do with cosmetics. My CEO who runs the whole company is a 43-year-old Slovenian Jurij Tršan and he started working with me when he was 19. I have a lot of employees who are the children of Orbico, my sons and I are on the Supervisory Board, along with a Pole, Marek Kapuscinski, and a Slovenian, Igor Šprajcar.

How do you manage to retain co-workers for so long and motivate them not to want to change the business environment?

In order to be a successful businessman you need to respect everyone’s personality and give everyone a chance to show what they can do and how committed they are to the idea. For me, the idea is above the hierarchy. I strictly adhere to that because the idea runs the business. Hierarchy is just a structure that implements an idea. In our country, it does not matter whether the idea of further development

AKO VLADINE MJERE POMOĆI NAŠOJ TVRTKI ORVAS, KOJA SE BAVI TURIZMOM, NE BUDU DOVOLJNE DA GODINU ZAVRŠIMO NA POZITIVNOJ NULI, POMOĆI ĆEMO SI KREDITOM ILI PRODAJOM NEKE NEKRETNINE ILI BRODA IF THE GOVERNMENT SUPPORT MEASURES ARE NOT ENOUGH FOR US TO END THE BUSINESS YEAR OF THE TOURISM COMPANY ORVAS WITH ‘POSITIVE ZERO’ ECONOMIC PROFIT, WE WILL HELP OURSELVES WITH A LOAN OR THE SALE OF A PROPERTY OR A BOAT

SAMO PORIV ZA USPJEHOM NIJE DOVOLJAN: AKO NISTE ZALJUBLJENI U SVOJ POSAO, TO VAM JE ISTO KAO DA IMATE ŽENU KOJU NE VOLITE IF YOU WANT TO SUCCEED, THE URGE ALONE ISN’T ENOUGH: IF YOU DON’T LOVE YOUR JOB, IT’S THE SAME AS BEING MARRIED TO A WOMAN YOU DON’T LOVE

vrijeme Hrvatskoga proljeća, kada su mladi ljudi podržavali Miku Tripala i Savku Dabčević te željeli veću samostalnost Hrvatske u odnosu na Srbiju. Kao komercijalni direktor ušao sam 1. listopada 1971. u Partiju, ali već 1. prosinca iste godine Tito je na sastanku u Karađorđevu smijenio Miku i Savku, a nas koji smo u tom valu ušli u Partiju počeli su izbacivati. Mene su izbacili već sredinom siječnja 1972. godine. Nakon isključenja iz Partije, gdje još nisam dobio ni člansku knjižicu, smijenili su me i s mjesta komercijalnog direktora. Dvije i pol godine radio sam kao referent, a supruga Vjeka, iako je bila izvrsna studentica, nakon diplome nije uspjela naći posao. Četiri godine slala je molbe na natječaje i svaki put bila odbijena. Zaposlio sam se 1975. godine u Croatia baterijama. Tamo me primio komercijalni direktor mr. Vice Mimica, i to na mjesto rukovoditelja predstavništva u Splitu. Zastupali smo tvrtku VARTA u Jugoslaviji. Nakon nekoliko godina VARTA nam je proširila zastupništvo i na Bugarsku. Ideja da proizvodnju džepnih svjetiljki preselimo iz Njemačke u | Sa suprugom Vjekom, najvećom podrškom u životu, prošao je sva poslovna previranja, a najviše vole provoditi vrijeme u obnovljenoj kući u Župi u zaleđu Makarske, odakle je podrijetlom | With his wife Vjeka, his greatest support in life, he's gone through all the business turmoil, and their favorite thing is spending time in a house they renovated in Župa in the hinterland of Makarska, where his family is from

was brought by the doorkeeper or me as the owner. It is important to choose the best one and help with the realization. People who have accepted this way of working are my closest associates. I have about 220 of them. It is important for us that the company is constantly growing, that it is improving, that we always have new software – at the moment we are introducing SAP globally, which will allow us to be competitive. But the people and my relationship with them are the greatest value of this company for me. Our connection is so firm that they all have my phone number and can ask for help.

You once said that you want your employees’ sons and daughters to work in Orbico and that you hope that they will earn decent money there. In some companies they call it nepotism. What do you think?

It would be nepotism if I did it for my children, and I do it for all our children.

Who would hire my worker’s son if the worker hadn’t created the basis for hiring him? Such an attitude, as well as favouring the idea above the hierarchy, allowed my workers to be attached to the company, to know that it means a financial existence, not only for me and my family but for all people who work there. Orbico represents our long-term financial existence and I am convinced that it will be the same when I am not there and my sons are at the helm of the company. They started working in warehouses in Orbico, driving an old Renault 4 until I told them we had the money to afford a better car. Arrogance is rude and has no place

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Zagreb omogućila nam je njihov izvoz te uvoz svih vrsta baterija koje nismo proizvodili. Tako smo tržišni udjel povećali na 80%, što je danas nezamislivo.

Znači, VARTA i džepne svjetiljke promijenile su vaš život?

U VARTA-i sam upoznao Emila Byru, čovjeka koji je 1968., nakon što su Rusi tenkovima okupirali Čehoslovačku, pobjegao u Njemačku. Sprijateljili smo se pa sam mu predložio da s mojih ušteđenih 60.000 njemačkih maraka otvorimo tvrtku u Švicarskoj, što smo i učinili. Naime, shvatio sam da je socijalizam pred kolapsom te sam se htio na vrijeme pripremiti za događaje koje slijede. Tvrtku sam nazvao Orbico (Roglić Branko i company) pa smo počeli trgovati između Njemačke, Slovenije i Bugarske. Padom Berlinskog zida na vlast u Jugoslaviji došao je premijer Ante Marković koji je omogućio osnivanje vlastitih tvrtki. Tako sam 1. ožujka 1990. na ruševinama tvrtke Unis Elkos u Ljubljani osnovao drugi Orbico, prvi na području bivše Jugoslavije.

Postoje li suradnici koji s vama rade od tada?

Naravno da postoje. Jako sam ponosan na njih.

To su broj 4 i broj 12. Što vam to znači?

Osoba koja je došla četvrta, Mirjana Nižetić Labetić, danas je direktorica Orvasa u Splitu i bavi se turizmom, a broj 12 je Irena Novinec, članica Upravnog odbora zadužena za kompletan posao s kozmetikom.

Moj predsjednik Uprave koji vodi cijelu tvrtku, Slovenac Jurij Tršan, ima 43 godine, a sa mnom je počeo raditi kada mu je bilo 19. Imam puno zaposlenika koji su djeca Orbica, sinovi i ja smo u Nadzornom odboru, uz Poljaka Mareka Kapus­ cinskog i Slovenca Igora Šprajcara.

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Kako uspijevate tako dugo zadržati suradnike i motivirati ih da ne požele promijeniti poslovno okruženje?

Da biste bili uspješan privrednik, morate poštovati svaku osobnost i svima dati priliku da pokažu što mogu te koliko su privrženi ideji. Kod mene je ideja iznad hijerarhije, toga se striktno držim jer ideja vodi posao. Hijerarhija je samo struktura koja provodi ideju. Kod nas je nevažno je li ideju o daljnjem razvoju donio portir ili ja kao vlasnik, važno je da izaberemo najbolju te pomažemo da se ona ostvaruje.

Ljudi koji su prihvatili takav način rada moji su najbliži suradnici, imam ih oko 220. Kod nas je važno da tvrtka stalno raste, da se usavršava, da uvijek imamo novi softver - sada globalno uvodimo SAP, što će nam omogućiti da budemo konkurentni. No ljudi i

| Velika strast Branka Roglića je ribolov (gore); u mladosti je bio nogometaš i junior Hajduka, no karijeru su prekinule zdravstvene tegobe (gore desno); na maturalnoj večeri 1961. godine (desno) | Branko Roglić's great passion is fishing (above); in his youth he was a football player and played for the junior team of Hajduk, but his career ended due to health problems (top right); at the prom in 1961 (right)

moj odnos s njima za mene su najveća vrijednost ove tvrtke. Naša je veza čvrsta, svi oni imaju moj broj i mogu zatražiti pomoć.

Jednom ste rekli kako želite da sinovi i kćeri vaših zaposlenika rade u Orbicu te da se nadate kako će pristojno zarađivati. U nekim tvrtkama to zovu nepotizmom?

Nepotizam bi bio kada bih to radio za svoju djecu, a ja to radim za svu našu djecu. Tko će zaposliti sina moga radnika ako on nije stvorio temelj za njegovo radno mjesto? Takav stav, kao i favoriziranje ideje iznad hijerarhije, omogućili su da moji radnici budu privrženi tvrtki, da znaju kako je to egzistencija, ne samo moja i moje obitelji nego svih koji tu rade.

Orbico je naša dugoročna egzistencija i uvjeren sam da će tako biti i kada mene ne bude, a moji sinovi budu na čelu kompanije. Oni su u Orbicu počeli radeći u skladištima, vozili stari Renault 4 sve dok im nisam rekao da imamo novca da si priuštimo bolji auto. Bahatost je nepristojna i u poslu joj nema mjesta. Moj sin vozi 16 godina stari A6, to je dobar auto i dok se ne kvari, u redu je.

Kako ste vi i supruga odgajali djecu: na kojim ste temeljnim vrijednostima inzistirali, kakve ste im savjete davali za vođenje posla?

in business. My son drives a 16 years old A6. It’s a good car and as long as it doesn’t break down, it’s good.

How did you and your wife raise your children: what core values did you insist on, what advice did you give them on running the business?

I was away a lot. I am grateful to my wife Vjeka for raising our children and, while at the same time, working in Dalma until it went bankrupt. Later she was the head of accounting of our company in Split and now she has a pension of 2400 kuna. Our sons have always known that in work and in life family and modesty are most important. That is the greatest virtue a man can have if good fortune has enabled him to be rich and to keep childhood friends, as my wife and I have. You know, the most positive thing at this time of the pandemic was staying at home with my Vjeka who concluded that in these two months we spent more time together than in our whole lives.

You mentioned several times in this conversation how lucky you were. Do you really think luck is such an important success factor?

It certainly is. But everyone tells me - luck should be challenged. I challenged it, but despite that I think I was really lucky. The most with my wife. I met a sensible, wonderful person who supported my entrepreneurial drive. She was alone most of the time, but I was there every weekend. There was never a Friday night that I did not come home- in the summer to Makarska or in the winter to Split. And on Monday morning I was always at work in Zagreb. If you don’t have a love for work, the urge alone isn’t enough. You need to love what you do because if you don’t love your job, it’s the same as being married to a woman you don’t love.

Ja sam često bio odsutan. Mojoj ženi Vjeki zahvalan sam što je odgojila djecu i pritom radila u Dalmi sve dok ona nije otišla u stečaj. Poslije je bila šefica računovodstva naše tvrtke u Splitu i sada ima mirovinu od 2400 kuna. Naši su sinovi uvijek znali da su u poslu i u životu najvažniji obitelj i skromnost. To je najveća vrlina koju čovjek može imati ako mu je sreća omogućila da bude bogat i da zadrži prijatelje iz djetinjstva, kao što ih imamo moja žena i ja. Znate, najpozitivnije u ovo vrijeme pandemije bio je boravak u kući s mojom Vjekom koja je zaključila da smo u dva mjeseca bili više zajedno nego cijeli život.

Nekoliko ste puta u ovom razgovoru spomenuli kako ste imali sreće. Zar stvarno mislite da je sreća tako važan faktor uspjeha?

Sigurno jest. Ali meni svi kažu - sreću treba izazivati. Izazivao sam je, ali unatoč tome mislim da sam stvarno imao sreće. Najviše sa ženom. Sreo sam razumnu, divnu osobu koja je podržavala moj poduzetnički poriv. Često je bila sama, ja sam bio prisutan svakog vikenda, nikad se nije dogodilo da u petak navečer nisam došao kući, ljeti u Makarsku, zimi u Split, a u ponedjeljak ujutro uvijek sam bio na poslu u Zagrebu. Ako nemate ljubav prema poslu, samo poriv nije dovoljan. Volite ono što radite jer ako niste zaljubljeni u svoj posao, to vam je isto kao da imate ženu koju ne volite.

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3 ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

KLJUČNA IZAZOVA TRŽIŠTA LUKSUZA

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TRŽIŠTE LUKSUZA SNAŽNO JE POGOĐENO KORONAKRIZOM, A U SLJEDEĆEM RAZDOBLJU AKTIVNO ĆE SE TRAŽITI ODGOVORI NA K R AT KO R O Č N E I Z A Z O V E P O V E Z A N E S PA N D E M I J O M , D O K J E I STO D O B N O P OT R E B N O P L A N I R A T I N O V U B U D U Ć N O S T. U T O M E Ć E K L J U Č N U U L O G U I G R AT I K I N E S KO T R Ž I ŠT E , OMNICHANNEL PRISTUP PRODAJI I MARKETINGU TE ODRŽIVI PRISTUP BRENDIRANJU NA PI SA L A _ W OR DS: DA N IJ EL A PE T R OV FOTO G R A F I J A _PH OTO : R O BE RT GA ŠPERT

P

rodaja luksuznih proizvoda u 2020. godini mogla bi zbog pandemije koronavirusa na globalnoj razini zabilježiti vrtoglavi pad od 35%, prognoze su to američke konzultantske kuće Bain & Company. Stručnjaci moćne konzultantske grupe The Big Three, koju uz Bain & Company čine i McKinsey te Boston Consulting Group, predvidjeli su, doduše, tri scenarija za ovu godinu i svaki donosi bolne padove. Naime, pad od 15% do 18% najblaži je scenarij, u drugom se predviđa gubitak od 22% do 25%, a u trećem od 30% do čak 35%. No budu li pametno odgovorili na izazove tržišta, tj. što brže i efikasnije sanirali štete uzrokovane pandemijom, nastavili se digitalno razvijati te prilagodili poslovanje novim načinima rada (da, pandemija nas je naučila da posao može funkcionirati na nov način!), luksuzni brendovi mogli bi izići iz krize jači, inovativniji i svrhovitiji.

U luksuznoj industriji već su od najranije faze pandemije bili svjesni golemih posljedica koje će novi virus uzrokovati u tom sektoru. Vlasnici luksuznih marki osjetili su prve potrese kada se COVID-19 proširio Kinom, zemljom čiji su građani činili 90% rasta globalnog tržišta luksuza u 2019. godini. Kad je virus stigao do Italije, gdje mnoge luksuzne marke imaju sjedišta i ključne dobavljače te gdje se događa više od 40 posto globalne proizvodnje luksuzne robe, suočili su se s kolapsom.

Osim javnozdravstvene krize, pandemija je prije svega kriza financijskog sektora. Ono što se sada događa među potrošačima, čak i onima dubljeg džepa, pad je spremnosti na potrošnju. Iako su mjere zaštite u mnogim zemljama poprilično ublažene pa je tržište kako-tako živnulo, kupci još u podsvijesti imaju riječ kriza, što ih odvraća od kupnje. Osim toga, prodaja luksuzne robe i usluga koje kupuju turisti i dalje će biti ugrožena zbog ograničenja u putovanjima,

THREE

KEY CHALLENGES OF THE LUXURY MARKET a znamo da se velik dio kupnje (luksuznih) proizvoda događa upravo - daleko od doma.

Najbolji su primjer za to opet, dakako, Kinezi, koji su do koronakrize putovali i trošili. Azijski kupci kupuju luksuznu robu izvan matičnih zemalja ne samo kako bi uštedjeli zbog nižih cijena u Europi, nego i zato što je kupnja postala sastavni dio iskustva putovanja: kupnja brenda u zemlji njegova porijekla povezana je s osjećajem autentičnosti i uzbuđenja. Nitko ne može predvidjeti hoće li pandemija promijeniti njihove navike, ali očekuje se da će upravo Kinezi do 2025. kupiti gotovo polovicu, odnosno 46% svih luksuznih proizvoda u svijetu. Osim toga, kinesko tržište prvo se počelo oporavljati nakon pandemije.

Potrošnja luksuzne robe izdržala je i sve prijašnje krize. Posljedice epidemije SARS-a 2002. i 2003. ublažila je činjenica da industrija nije bila toliko ovisna o Kini kao sada.

Nakon globalne financijske krize 2008. godine, bogati kineski potrošači nastavili su trošiti i kada je Zapad posustao.

Međutim, ovaj put postoje ključne razlike.

Kineski potrošači više su pogođeni virusom COVID-19 nego financijskom krizom 2008. pa je malo vjerojatno da će tržištu luksuza pomoći na isti način - a nema drugih (ili boljih) kupaca luksuza na vidiku.

Strah od koronavirusa veći je faktor straha od svih prije njega, a to će bez sumnje utjecati na gubitak radnih mjesta, pad BDP-a i sl. Stoga će brendovima trebati novi pristup u privlačenju luksuznih kupaca, s prije svega jačanje njihove digitalne i omnichannel ponude. Upravo je to već godinama, pa i unatoč krizi, u fokusu poslovanja brenda Jimmy Choo, čija je predsjednica Uprave za Sjevernu i Južnu Ameriku, Tanya Golesic, podrijetlom Hrvatica.

“Ključni je cilj e-trgovine ponuditi klijentu besprijekoran omnichannel, odnosno omogućiti mu određenu uslugu isti dan, posebno u SAD-u. Luksuzni brendovi moraju ponuditi iskustvo koje je u skladu s njihovim imenom: počevši od izgleda internet-

A

ccording to the forecasts of the American consulting firm Bain & C omp a ny, s a le s of luxury products in 2020 c ou ld e x per ienc e a dizzying drop of 35% due to the coronavirus pandemic globally.

Experts from the powerful consulting group The Big Three, which, along with Bain & Company, also includes McKinsey and Boston Consulting Group, have predicted three scenarios for this year, and each one includes painful drops. Namely, a drop of 15% to 18% is the mildest scenario; the second one predicts losses of 22% to 25%, and the third one from 30% to as much as 35%. But if they respond wisely to market challenges, i.e. repair the damage caused by the pandemic as quickly and efficiently as possible, continue to develop digitally and adapt business to new ways of working (yes, the pandemic taught us that business can function in a new way), luxury brands could emerge from the crisis stronger, more innovative and more purposeful.

In the luxury industry, from the earliest stages of the pandemic, they were aware of the enormous consequences that the new virus would cause in that sector. Luxury brand owners felt the first disruptions when COVID-19 spread around China, a country whose citizens accounted for 90% of the global luxury market growth in 2019.

When the virus reached Italy, where many luxury brands’ headquarters and key suppliers are and where more than 40 percent of global luxury goods production takes place, they faced collapse.

Apart from the public health crisis, the pandemic is especially a crisis of the financial sector. What is happening now among consumers, even those with deeper pockets, is a decline in willingness to spend.

Although protection measures have been considerably relaxed in many countries so the market has somehow come to life, cu-

THE LUXURY MARKET HAS BEEN HIT HARD BY THE CORONA CRISIS, AND IN THE NEXT PERIOD IT WILL BE FOCUSED ON RESPONDING TO THE SHORTTERM CHALLENGES A S S O C I AT E D W I T H T H E PA N D E M I C , W H I L E AT T H E SAME TIME PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE. THE KEY ROLE IN THIS W I L L B E P L AY E D BY T H E C H I N E S E M A R K E T, THE OMNICHANNEL APPROACH TO SALES AND MARKETING, AND A S U STA I N A B L E A P P R O A C H TO BRANDING

stomers still have the word “crisis” in their subconscious, which deters them from buying. In addition, the sale of luxury goods and services bought by tourists will continue to be jeopardized by travel restrictions, and we know that much of the purchase of (luxury) products happens away from home. The best example is the Chinese, who, until the corona crisis started, travelled and spent money. Asian customers buy luxury goods outside their home countries not only to save because of lower prices in Europe, but also because shopping has become an integral part of the travel experience: buying a brand in its country of origin is associated with a sense of authenticity and excitement. No one can predict whether the pandemic will change their habits, but it is expected that by 2025 the Chinese will buy 46 %, or almost half, of all luxury products in the world. In addi-

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ske stranice, priče koju plasiraju, lakoće kupnje te mogućnosti povratka ili zamjene proizvoda. Cilj nam je nastaviti usavršavati ponudu omnichannela te povećati učinkovitost maloprodaje kako bismo osigurali daljnji rast”, kaže Tanya Golesic.

Najoptimističnije prognoze pokazuju da bi se tržište luksuza moglo oporaviti u drugoj polovici godine (ukupan pad tada bi na godišnjoj razini iznosio 15 do 18%), ali očekuje se da bi se utjecaj pandemije u industriji mogao osjetiti i u 2021. godini.

Neke će zemlje vjerojatno doživjeti brzi oporavak, a pritom se prije svega misli na Kinu i šire azijsko tržište, dok bi Japan, Europa i Amerika mogli osjetiti dugotrajniji utjecaj. Ipak, stručnjaci konzultantske kuće Bain & Company mišljenja su da će srednjoročni rast tržišta podržati potražnja kineske srednje klase povećanim apetitom za luksuznom robom generacije Z i daljnjim razvojem digitalnih kanala.

U konzultantskoj kući Bain & Company uočavaju nekoliko potrošačkih trendova koji se pojavljuju kao odgovor na krizu.

Prvi je Kina: ako virus ostane pod kontrolom, tržište luksuza oporavit će se najbrže u toj zemlji. Nastavak ograničenja putovanja značit će da će se mnoge kupnje i dogoditi u Kini, a ne u Europi, gdje su Kinezi tradicionalno kupovali luksuz.

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Ubrzani prelazak na digitalnu kupnju: kad osjete da su sigurni, potrošači će se vratiti u fizičke trgovine (možda i s obnovljenom strašću za stvarnim iskustvima), ali zadržat će se neke navike digitalne kupnje stečene tijekom epidemije - osobito ako brendovi ulože u asortiman i korisničko iskustvo na mreži te digitalni marketing. Zato savjetuju brendovima ulaganje u internetske kanale i digitalni marketing, kao i istraživanje novih načina partnerstva s etabliranim etrgovcima. Luksuzni potrošači naviknuli

su na visok standard usluge u trgovinama pa bi sada naglasak trebao biti na stvaranju personaliziranog digitalnog iskustva iste kvalitete. Primjerice, tjedni mode bili su važan način kojim su brendovi održavali odnose s potrošačima i partnerima. Sada bi trebali istražiti alternativne načine isporuke iste vrste magije koju ti događaji nude.

Također, iskustveni luksuz - a pod tim se misli na vrhunske hotele, odmarališta, krstarenja i restorane - bio je jedna od najdinamičnijih i brzo rastućih komponenti luksuznog sektora. Sada treba smisliti način kako mu vratiti dinamiku, pri čemu prije svega t reba ciljati na generaciju Z. Iako je još prerano za kvantificiranje ukupnog financijskog “poreza” na COVID-19, pandemija je sigurno uzdrmala temeljne aspekte luksuzne industrije, a neke od tih promjena mogle bi biti trajne. Najveći negativan utjecaj mogli bi, predviđaju, zabilježiti brendovi koji još nisu u potpunosti prešli na vertikalno integrirani model distribucije (korporacije), kao i brendovi kojima su potrebni veleprodajni kanali kako bi došli do novih kupaca i financirali svoje poslovanje (to se ponajprije odnosi na modne brendove). U tvrtkama bi si trebali postaviti pitanje postoje li tvrtke kojima bismo potencijalno mogli biti partneri kako bismo se zajedno širili. To bi moglo dovesti do daljnje konsolidacije industrija i formiranja novih luksuznih konglomerata. Isto tako, u neki bi konglomeratima mogli zaključiti kako nemaju strpljenja ulagati u brendove pa će možda biti spremni vratiti ih na tržište. Neki će tako iz krize izići jači, a drugi će se boriti za očuvanje integriteta poslovanja. Mnogo će toga ovisiti o njihovoj sposobnosti da odgovore na kratkoročne izazove povezane s pandemijom, istodobno planirajući budućnost.

Stručnjaci konzultantske kuće Bain & Company očekuju da će potrošači, kad

ETIKA ĆE POSTATI JEDNAKO VAŽNA KAO I ESTETIKA PA ĆE POTROŠAČI DATI PREDNOST SVRHOVITIM BRENDOVIMA ETHICS WILL BECOME JUST AS IMPORTANT AS AESTHETICS, SO CONSUMERS WILL GIVE PREFERENCE TO PURPOSEFUL BRANDS

| “Ključni je cilj e-trgovine ponuditi klijentu besprijekoran omnichannel”, govori Tanya Golesic, predsjednica Uprave brenda Jimmy Choo | 'The key goal of e-commerce is to offer the customer a flawless omnichannel', says Tanya Golesic

uvjeti to dopuste, poželjeti nastaviti svoj uobičajeni život. Međutim, sljedeće bi normalno moglo izgledati sasvim drukčije, a luksuzne tvrtke moraju pokušati predvidjeti i reagirati na sve što će biti sljedeće normalno. Primjerice, trend koji će nakon krize jačati zasigurno je održivost; zabrinutost potrošača za održivost i usmjerenost na socijalna pitanja nastavlja se i učvršćuje važnost promišljanja o okolišu. Pojačana ekološka i društvena svijest stoga mora biti cilj buduće poslovne strategije brendova, baš kao i razvoj postaspiracijskog načina razmišljanja. Naime, etika će postati jednako važna kao i estetika pa će potrošači dati prednost svrhovitim brendovima.

Iskustvo također sugerira da bi se, nakon velike krize, potrošačke preferencije mogle barem na trenutak preusmjeriti u tihi luksuz - obraćajući više pozornosti na priču koja stoji iza nekog brenda, vještinu izrade, možda čak i baštinu, a manje na vidljivi luksuz. Izvješća Interbranda, tvrtke koja već 20 godina kreira listu 100 najutjecajnijih brendova na svijetu, potvrđuje da se luksuzni sektor najbrže razvija. Prosječan rast vrijednosti luksuznih brendova u 2019., u odnosu na godinu prije, iznosio je 11%. Prema tom izvješću, najcjenjeniji je u svijetu bio brend Louis Vuitton, dok je Gucci zabilježio najbrži rast - čak 23% godišnje. U godini korone rast se, dakako, ne očekuje, ali izgledno je da bi tržište luksuza ipak prvo trebalo krenuti prema oporavku. A to je u trenutačnim okolnostima – golem kapital.

tion, the Chinese market was the first to begin to recover after the pandemic.

Consumption of luxury goods has withstood all previous crises. The consequences of the SARS epidemic in 2002 and 2003 were mitigated by the fact that the industry was not as dependent on China as it is now.

After the global financial crisis in 2008, wealthy Chinese consumers continued to spend even when the West ceased spending. However, this time there are key differences. Chinese consumers are more affected by the COVID-19 virus than by the financial crisis of 2008, so it is unlikely that they will “help” the luxury market in the same way - and there are no other (or better) luxury buyers in sight. Fear of coronavirus is a greater “fear factor” than all factors before it, and this will undoubtedly lead to job losses, GDP fall, etc. Therefore, brands will need a new approach in attracting luxury customers, and first of all, they need to strengthen their digital and omnichannel offers. And for years, regardless of the crisis, this has been the focus of the Jimmy Choo brand, whose president of the Board for North and South America, Tanya Golesic, is of Croatian origin.

“The key goal of e-commerce is to offer the customer a flawless omnichannel, i.e. to provide them with a certain service on the same day, especially in the USA. Luxury brands must offer an experience which is in line with their name: starting with the look of the website, the story they tell, the ease of purchase, and product return or exchange options. Our goal is to continue to improve the omnichannel offer and increase the efficiency of retail in order to ensure further growth”, says Tanya Golesic.

The most optimistic predictions are that the luxury market could recover in the second half of the year (the total decline would then be 15 to 18% at an annual level), but it is expected that the impact of the pandemic on the industry could be felt in 2021. Some countries will likely experience a rapid recovery, and it primarily refers to China and the broader Asian market, while Japan, Europe and America could experience longer-lasting impact. However, experts from the consulting firm Bain & Company believe that the medium-term growth of the market will be supported by the demand of the Chinese middle class,

Generation Z's increased appetite for luxury goods and further development of digital channels.

Bain & Company noticed several consumer trends that are emerging in response to the crisis.

The first one is China- if the virus remains under control, the luxury market will recover the fastest in that country. Continuing travel restrictions will mean that many purchases will also take place in China, not in Europe, where the Chinese have traditionally bought luxury items.

The second one is accelerated transition to digital shopping- when consumers feel confident, they will return to physical stores (perhaps with a renewed passion for realworld experiences), but some digital shopping habits acquired during the epidemic will remain - especially if brands invest in digital marketing and product range and user experience online. That’s why they advise brands to invest in online channels and digital marketing, as well as explore new ways to partner with established emerchants. Luxury consumers are accustomed to a high standard of service in stores, so now the emphasis should be on creating a personalized digital experience of the same quality. For example, fashion weeks were an important way for brands to maintain relationships with consumers and partners. They should now explore alternative ways of delivering the same kind of “magic” that these events offer. Also, “experiential luxury” - by which we mean top hotels, resorts, cruises and restaurants - was one of the most dynamic and fast-growing components of the luxury sector. Now we need to figure out a way to restore its dynamism, focusing on generation Z. Although it is still too early to quantify the overall financial “tax” on COVID-19, the pandemic has certainly shaken fundamental aspects of the luxury industry, and some of these changes could be permanent. As they predict, the biggest negative impact could be recorded by brands that have not yet fully switched to a vertically integrated distribution model (corporation), as well as brands that need wholesale channels to reach new customers and finance their business (this primarily applies to fashion brands). Companies should see if there are

other companies they could potentially partner with in order to expand together.

This could lead to further consolidation of industries and the formation of new luxury conglomerates. Likewise, in some conglomerates they might conclude that they do not have the patience to invest in brands so they may be willing to bring them back to market. Some will thus emerge stronger from the crisis, while others will fight to preserve the integrity of the business. Much will depend on their ability to respond to the short-term challenges associated with the pandemic, while at the same time planning for the future.

Experts from the consulting firm Bain & Company expect that consumers will want to continue their normal life when conditions allow. However, 'the next normal' could look quite different, and luxury companies must try to anticipate and react to everything that will be the next normal. For example, the trend which will strengthen after the crisis is certainly sustainability. Consumer concerns about sustainability and a focus on social issues continue and reinforce the importance of thinking about the environment. Increased environmental and social awareness must therefore be the goal of the future business strategy of brands, as well as the development of a post-aspiration way of thinking. Namely, ethics will become just as important as aesthetics, so consumers will give preference to purposeful brands.

Experience also suggests that, after a major crisis, consumer preferences could at least for a moment shift to “quiet luxury” paying more attention to the “story” behind a brand, crafting skills, perhaps even heritage, and less to visible luxury. Reports from Interbrand, a company that has been creating a list of the 100 most influential brands in the world for 20 years, confirm that the luxury sector is developing the fastest. The average growth in the value of luxury brands in 2019, compared to the year before, was 11%. According to the report, the most respected brand in the world was the Louis Vuitton brand, while Gucci recorded the fastest growth – by as much as 23% per year. In the corona year, growth is certainly not expected, but it is likely that the luxury market should turn towards recovery first.

And, in the current circumstances, that is a huge “investment”.

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“GOSPODARSTVO KINE JE NA PUTU NORMALIZACIJE,

ALI PUT I BRZINA OPORAVKA UVELIKE OVISE O NEIZVJESNOSTIMA I IZAZOVIMA ZBOG PANDEMIJE” V E L E P O S L A N I K H R V ATS K E U K I N I D A R I O MIHELIN ZA ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY GOVORI O STA N J U N A K I N E S KO M T R Ž I ŠT U, N O V I M NAVIKAMA U SEGMENTU ONLINE I OFFLINE K U P N J E T E P L A N O V I M A Z A P O V R ATA K K I N E S K I H T U R I STA U E U R O P U I H R V ATS K U

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e li koronavirus promijenio navike kineskih potrošača, posebice kupaca luksuznih proizvoda? Vraćaju li se kupci u butike ili je iskustvo online šopinga nastavilo cvjetati i nakon korone?

Prema istraživanjima, optimizam kineskih potrošača u pogledu gospodarskog oporavka polako se počeo vraćati od početka travnja. Potrošnja (online i offline) postupno se normalizira, iako neizvjesnost zbog mogućeg trajanja ovoga “novog normalnog” potrošačima ostaje najveća briga pa ih većina očekuje da će se dogledan utjecaj COVID-19 na njihov život i financije nastaviti jer će i kinesko društvo osjetiti gospodarske posljedice ove pandemije.

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S obzirom na to da je određeni broj ljudi izgubio posao ili sada rade za manju plaću, potpuno je očekivano da u ovom trenutku nerado troše na robu koja nije od svakodnevne važnosti, što se posebno odnosi na luksuznu robu. Samo najpoznatiji luksuzni brendovi (kao što je, primjerice, popularni Louis Vuitton) mogu očekivati povratak na razinu prodaje prije krize, a ostali će se, čini se, ipak morati više potruditi kako bi vratili kupce. No činjenica da kineski građani trenutačno ne mogu putovati izvan zemlje kao prije pa ondje kupovati luksuzne proizvode po povoljnijim cijenama, u odnosu na Kinu gdje su skuplji u prosjeku trideset posto, pozitivno će djelovati na povećanje takve kupnje u samoj Kini.

Od početka krize kineski su se potrošači snažno preusmjerili na internetske kanale kupnje, iako treba istaknuti da je taj oblik kupnje

u Kini i prije krize bio vrlo razvijen i u snažnom porastu. Može se očekivati da će se trend kupnje putem interneta nastaviti čak i kada se stanje vrati u normalu. Tradicionalna “izvanmrežna” kupnja također se polako oporavlja, kupci se vraćaju u trgovine, ali nakon pada na oko 39 posto normalne razine na vrhuncu epidemije, ona još nije na razini potrošnje prije krize (ali ipak doseže više od 80%).

Zanimljivo je da su mladi Kinezi potaknuti krizom i financijskom neizvjesnošću počeli čak štedjeti, što je inače značajka samo starijih generacija. Kineski srednji sloj je velik, nekoliko stotina milijuna građana lijepo živi, mnogi i vrlo luksuzno kada se to usporedi s europskim prosjekom, uzimajući u obzir ovdašnje troškove odlaska u restorane, kafiće, barove ili klubove, cijene uvoznih proizvoda, automobila i raznih elektroničkih predmeta - i imajući u vidu njihovu sklonost da si priušte najnovije i najbolje.

Kakvo je stanje s planiranim putovanjima u Europu, koliko je realno očekivati da u ovoj godini kineski turisti djelomično “spase” turističku sezonu?

Teško je reći bilo što drugo osim da će sve ovisiti o javnozdravstvenoj situaciji i mjerama protiv širenja COVID-19 koje će biti na snazi, kako u Kini tako i u Europskoj uniji. Ono što se s velikom sigurnošću može pretpostaviti jest da će kineske vlasti, izravno ili neizravno, nastojati kinesku potrošnju usmjeriti na domaće tržište.

Kineske vlasti uvele su i ograničenja na organizirana putovanja u inozemstvo i međunarodne letove pa se u ovom trenutku ne može reći kad bismo mogli očekivati povratak na stanje prije pandemije.

Vjerujem da će se u tom trenutku nastaviti i trend koji smo vidjeli posljednjih godina, onaj eksponencijalnog porasta broja kineskih turista koji posjećuju Hrvatsku. Prošle je godine taj broj, kad se promatra Kina u cjelini, bio već gotovo pola milijuna. Najprepoznatljiviji je Dubrovnik kao Kraljev grudobran, a uz njega Zagreb, Split i Zadar, kao i nacionalni parkovi, posebice Plitvice koje u Kini imaju svoje kinesko ime - “16 jezera”. Kineski su gosti cjelogodišnji posjetitelji zainteresirani za povijesne i kulturne znamenitosti, kupnju, doživljaj zemlje, a more i plaže im nisu posebno primamljivi. Kineski građani sve više znaju o Hrvatskoj, njezinim prirodnim ljepotama te vrhunskim prehrambenim proizvodima i vinima, hrvatske “kockice” vrlo su prepoznatljive. Kad spominjete kupnju luksuzne robe, kineski posjetitelji ističu da taj segment tržišta nedostaje u Hrvatskoj i na njemu se sigurno može poraditi.

Imate li podatke o financijskim gubicima za Kinu zbog pandemije koronavirusa - koje su projekcije za BDP, koliko je ljudi ostalo bez posla, tko je najviše pogođen?

Kinesko gospodarstvo se, prvi put nakon 1992., u prvom tromjesečju 2020. smanjilo nakon što je epidemija paralizirala proizvodnju

i potrošnju: bruto domaći proizvod (BDP) pao je za 6,8% u odnosu na isto razdoblje prošle godine. Ipak, podaci za travanj i svibanj pokazuju jasne znakove oporavka, ponajprije u dijelu industrijske proizvodnje, maloprodaje i ulaganja, ali i potrošnje građana.

Gospodarstvo je na putu normalizacije, ali put i brzina oporavka uvelike ovise o neizvjesnostima i izazovima zbog pandemije COVID-19. Iako se očekuje pozitivan gospodarski rast ove godine, Kina prvi put nije postavila određeni cilj gospodarskog rasta zbog velikih nepoznanica i nesigurnosti prouzročenih pandemijom COVID-19. Prema službenim podacima za svibanj, stopa nezaposlenosti u Kini je 5,9%, što je za 1% više nego u istom razdoblju prošle godine. Iako je teško procijeniti kolika je stvarna nezaposlenost, podaci govore da je bez posla zbog krize ostalo oko 5 milijuna ljudi u gradovima. Procjene radnika migranata iz kineskih pokrajina koji su izgubili posao pa se nakon izbijanja epidemije tijekom blagdana Kineske nove godine nisu ni vratili na svoja radna mjesta u gradovima vrlo su raznolike i broje se u milijunima. Najteže pogođeni krizom su maloprodaja, ugostiteljstvo, hotelijerstvo, turizam i industrija vezana uz slobodno vrijeme te automobilska industrija i luksuzni proizvodi.

‘CHINESE ECONOMY IS ON ITS WAY TO NORMALIZATION, BUT THE PATH AND SPEED OF RECOVERY LARGELY DEPEND ON THE UNCERTAINTIES AND CHALLENGES CAUSED BY THE PANDEMIC’ C R O AT I A N A M B A S S A D O R TO C H I N A D A R I O M I H E L I N G A V E A N I N T E R V I E W FO R A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T Y A N D T A L K E D A B O U T T H E S I T U A T I O N O N T H E C H I N E S E M A R K E T, NEW HABITS IN THE SEGMENT OF ONLINE AND OFFLINE SHOPPING AND PLANS FOR T H E R E T U R N O F C H I N E S E TO U R I STS TO E U R O P E A N D C R O AT I A

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as the coronavirus changed the habits of Chinese consumers, especially buyers of luxury products? Are customers returning to boutiques or has the online shopping experience continued to flourish?

According to research, the optimism of Chinese consumers when it comes to the economic recovery has slowly begun to show as from the early April. Consumption (both online and offline) is gradually normalizing, although uncertainty about the possible duration of this “new normal” remains the biggest concern for consumers, and most of them expect the foreseeable impact of COVID-19 on their lives and finances to continue as the Chinese society feels the economic consequences of this pandemic.

Since a number of people have lost their jobs or are now working for lower wages, it is entirely expected that at this time they are reluctant to spend on goods that are not of everyday importance, which is especially true of luxury goods. Only the most famous

luxury brands (such as the popular Louis Vuitton, for example) can expect to return to pre-crisis sales levels, while the others will, as it seems, still have to work harder to bring back customers. But the fact that Chinese citizens currently cannot travel outside the country as they used to and buy luxury products there at cheaper prices, in comparison to China where those products are about thirty percent more expensive on average, will have a positive effect on the increase in such purchases in China itself.

From the beginning of the crisis, Chinese consumers have strongly shifted to online shopping channels, although it should be noted that this form of shopping in China was highly developed and growing strongly even before the crisis. It can be expected that the trend of buying online will continue even when the situation returns to normal. Traditional, offline shopping is also slowly recovering, with customers returning to stores, but after a drop of around 39 percent during the peak of the epidemic in comparison to normal levels, it is not yet at pre-crisis consumption levels (but still reaches more than 80%). Interestingly, the young Chinese, driven by the

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GDJE JE HRVATSKA NA KINESKOM TRŽIŠTU? Kineski kupci traže vrlo visoku razinu luksuza. Zato prilikom potencijalnog planiranja plasiranja proizvoda na kinesko tržište treba paziti na kvalitetu i dizajn proizvoda te koristiti primjerene marketinške aktivnosti, savjetuju iz Hrvatske gospodarske komore. Prema podacima Državnog zavoda za statistiku, NR Kina je Hrvatskoj u 2019. godini bila 14. trgovinski partner, s ukupnim iznosom razmjene od 924 milijuna američkih dolara, što je 2,05% ukupne trgovinske razmjene Hrvatske sa svijetom. Od toga nešto više od 120 milijuna dolara čini izvoz, a nešto više od 803 milijuna je uvoz.

WHAT POSITION DOES CROATIA HOLD ON THE CHINESE MARKET?

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Chinese buyers demand a very high level of luxury. Therefore, during the potential planning of product placement on the Chinese market, one should pay attention to the quality and design of the product and use appropriate marketing activities, as advised by the Croatian Chamber of Commerce. According to the Central Bureau of Statistics, the People's Republic of China was Croatia's 14th trading partner in 2019, with a total trade amount of $ 924 million, which is 2.05 % of Croatia's total trade with the world. A part of that, just over $ 120 million is exports, and just over $ 803 million is imports.

crisis and financial uncertainty, even began to save, which is otherwise a feature of the older generations only. The Chinese middle class is large.

Several hundred million citizens live well, many even very luxuriously when compared to the European average, taking into account the local cost of going to restaurants, cafes, bars or clubs, the price of imported products, cars and various electronic items - and given their tendency to afford the latest and the best.

What is the situation with planned trips to Europe? How realistic is it that Chinese tourists would partially “save” the tourist season this year?

It is difficult to say anything other than that everything will depend on the public health situation and the measures against the spread of COVID-19 that will be in force, both in China and in the European Union. What can be assumed with great certainty is that the Chinese authorities will, directly or indirectly, seek to direct Chinese consumption to the domestic market.

The Chinese authorities have also imposed restrictions on organized travel abroad and international flights, and at this point we don't know when we could expect a return to the pre-pandemic situation.

I believe that at that moment, the trend we have seen in recent years will continue, the trend of the exponential increase in the number of Chinese tourists visiting Croatia. Last year, that number was already nearly half a million if we look at China as a whole. The most recognizable location is Dubrovnik as the King's Landing, and then Zagreb, Split and Zadar, as well as national parks, especially the Plitvice Lakes, which have their own Chinese name – “The 16 lakes”. Chinese guests are year-round visitors interested in historical and cultural sights, shopping and the experience of the country. The sea and beaches are not particularly attractive to them.

Chinese citizens know more and more about Croatia, its natural beauties and top food products and wines. Croatian red-white squares are very recognizable. When talking about the purchase of luxury goods, it is a market segment that Chinese visitors point out as lacking in Croatia and it can certainly be worked on.

Do you have data on financial losses for China due to the coronavirus pandemic? What are the projections for GDP? How many people lost their jobs? Who was affected most?

For the first time since 1992, the Chinese economy shrank in the first quarter of 2020 after the epidemic paralyzed production and consumption: gross domestic product (GDP) dropped by 6.8% compared to the same period last year. Nevertheless, the data for April and May show clear signs of recovery, primarily in the segment of industrial production, retail and investment, but also consumer spending. The economy is on its way to normalization, but the path and speed of recovery largely depend on the uncertainties and challenges caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.

Although positive economic growth is expected this year, for the first time, China has not set a specific economic growth target due to major conundrums and uncertainties caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.

According to official data for May, the unemployment rate in China is 5.9%, which is 1% up compared to the same period last year. Although it is difficult to estimate how high the unemployment rate really is, the data show that, in cities, about 5 million people have lost their jobs due to the crisis. Estimates of migrant workers from Chinese provinces who lost their jobs and did not even return to their jobs in the cities after the outbreak of the epidemic during the Chinese New Year holidays are very diverse and can be counted in the millions. Retail, catering, hotel, tourism and leisure industries, as well as the automotive industry and luxury products, have been hit hardest by the crisis.

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TURIZAM U S M J E R U L U K S U Z A OVO JE TREBALA BITI DOBRA G O D I N A Z A H R V A T S K U, N O PA N D E M I J A KO R O N A V I R U S A PROUZROČILA JE BROJNE PROMJENE U TURIZMU - NA GLOBALNOJ I REGIONALNOJ RAZINI. NA ŠTO ĆE SE H R V ATS K A U S M J E R I T I U DRUGOJ POLOVICI 2020.

GODINE I KOJI SU NAŠI ADUTI KAD JE RIJEČ O LUKSUZNOM T U R I Z M U, G O V O R I D I R E K T O R H T Z - a K R I S TJ A N S T A N I Č I Ć RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: MA RT I N A RA FA EL I FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : GORA N STA N Z L / PI XSEL L , DRAGO TOMAS/CROP IX, PROF I MED I A

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TOURISM

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GOING LUXURY

oje su prednosti Hrvatske u razdoblju nakon pandemije koronavirusa i prepoznaje li to turističko tržište?

Pandemija je izazvala brojne promjene u cjelokupnoj turističkoj djelatnosti pa će u sljedećem razdoblju veći naglasak biti na poštovanju higijenskih i svih ostalih propisanih mjera opreza. U skladu s okolnostima još ćemo se snažnije usmjeriti na gostoprimstvo i brigu o gostu, a više ćemo se fokusirati i na susjedna te bliska srednjoeuropska tržišta. Naša zemlja obiluje prekrasnom i očuvanom prirodom, ima mnogo plaža, uvala, šetnica, više od 1000 otoka, planinarskih i biciklističkih staza te drugih sadržaja, poput smještajnih objekata i kampova koji našim gostima u ovo vrijeme mogu pružiti prijeko potreban osjećaj sigurnosti. Osim toga, Hrvatska turistička zajednica ima vrlo raznovrstan portfelj smještajnih kapaciteta koji gostima omogućuju visoku razinu privatnosti, pa tako vidimo priliku za male luksuzne obiteljske hotele. Na ruku nam ide i povoljna epidemiološka situacija. Sigurna smo zemlja, spremna za dolazak gostiju. Navedeno potvrđuje i turistički promet ostvaren tijekom lipnja, u kojem smo ostvarili oko pet milijuna noćenja. Te nas brojke raduju te bude optimizam i nadu, a to potvrđuju i mnogi naši partneri te turoperatori pa vjerujem da će naš turistički promet tijekom ljetnih mjeseci biti mnogo bolji nego što smo mislili kada smo bili na vrhuncu koronakrize. Osim toga, prema našim procjenama, do kraja ove godine očekujemo ostvariti do 30 posto prometa u odnosu na prošlu, rekordnu godinu.

Globalna definicija luksuznog turizma mijenja se, a neka novija istraživanja ukazuju na to da će se upravo ova grana turizma lakše oporaviti od ostalih.

Koliko je naša zem­lja prepoznata u kategoriji luksuznog turizma?

Trenutačni trendovi u luksuznom turizmu pokazuju da se potrebe gostiju odmiču od materijalnog koncepta karakteriziranog, primjerice, kupnjom vrhunskih robnih marki i proizvoda ili posjetom etabliranim luksuznim destinacijama prema onom doživljajnom.

Klijenti, naime, sve više odlučuju novac ulagati u jedinstvene doživljaje i iskustva kako bi postigli unutarnje emocionalno, fizičko ili duhovno zadovoljstvo.

Sasvim se sigurno zbog novonastale situacije izazvane koronavirusom definicija luksuznog turizma mijenja,

IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN A GOOD YEAR FOR C R O AT I A N TO U R I S M . B U T T H E C O V I D - 1 9 PA N D E M I C H A S C A U S E D A N U M B E R O F C H A N G E S I N T O U R I S M - G L O B A L LY A N D R E G I O N A L LY. W E TA L K E D TO C R O AT I A N N AT I O N A L TO U R I ST B O A R D D I R E C T O R K R I S TJ A N S T A N I Č I Ć A B O U T W H AT C R O AT I A W I L L FO C U S O N I N T H E S E C O N D HALF OF THIS YEAR

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hat are the advantages of Croatia in the period after the coronavirus pandemic and are those advantages recognized on the tourist market?

The pandemic has caused numerous changes in the entire tourism industry, so in the coming period, greater emphasis will be placed on compliance with hygiene and all other prescribed precautions. In accordance with the circumstances, we will direct the attention even more strongly on hospitality and care for the guest, and we will focus more on neighbouring and close Central European markets. Our country abounds in beautiful and preserved nature. There are many beaches, bays, promenades by the sea, more than 1000 islands, hiking and biking trails and other facilities, such as different kinds of accommodation and camps, which can provide our guests with, at this time, a much needed sense of security. In addition, the Croatian National Tourist Board has a very diverse portfolio of accommodation facilities which provide guests with a high level of privacy, so this is an opportunity for small luxury family hotels. We also benefit from an extremely favourable epidemiological situation; we are a safe country, ready for the arrival of guests. This is confirmed by the data of the first weekend of June, during which the daily number of 70 thousand tourists in Croatian destinations was exceeded, which is about 30 thousand more than the week before. These figures, confirmed by many of our partners and tour operators, make us happy, optimistic and hopeful so I believe that our tourist traffic during the summer months will | Kristjan Staničić, be much better than we thought a month ago, direktor Hrvatske when the corona crisis was at its peak. Also, turističke zajednice, according to our estimates, by the end of this odgovara na pitanja o year we expect to achieve up to 30 percent of budućnosti hrvatskog turizma | Croatian turnover compared to last year, which was a National Tourist Board record year.

Director Kristjan Staničić talks about the future of Croatian tourism

The global definition of luxury tourism is changing and some recent research indicates that this branch of tourism will recover more easily than others. How recognized our country is in the category of luxury tourism?

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a pojam luksuza počinje obuhvaćati raznolike i jedinstvene mogućnosti odmora prilagođene potrebama svakog pojedinog klijenta, i to u autohtonom, očuvanom i lijepom okolišu s bogatom poviješću i kulturom uz vrhunsku uslugu. Hrvatska turistička ponuda – koja uključuje vrhunski smještaj i usluge, gastronomiju, očuvanost i ljepotu prirode te mediteranski životni stil – svakako nudi iskustva koja su u kontekstu luksuznog turizma zanimljiva. Tu se ističu destinacije poput Rovinja, Dubrovnika, Opatije, Hvara i drugih, koje imaju kvalitetnu hotelsku ponudu, marine, atrakcije i ostalu infrastrukturu, a treba naglasiti i kvalitetu ukupne usluge, poput brzine i dostupnosti osoblja, koja je također važna kada govorimo o luksuznim putovanjima.

Postavljaju se novi trendovi, sve se više govori o wellbeingu. Koliko globalne procjene utječu na oblikovanje naše luksuzne ponude i ujedno na budućnost luksuznog turizma u Hrvatskoj? Možemo li gostima ponuditi luksuzni wellbeing?

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Moglo bi se reći da je luksuzni turizam zapravo turizam dodatne vrijednosti te se može uključiti u gotovo svaki dio turističke ponude, od nautičkog i zdravstvenog do šoping i poslovnog turizma, kao i u smještajnu i druge ponude. Hrvatska se može pohvaliti činjenicom da na relativno malom prostoru nudi mnogo različitosti, doživljaja te nezaboravnih trenutaka uz veliku srdačnost i ljubaznost domaćina. Kad je riječ o luksuznom turizmu, napredujemo iz godine u godinu, a potvrde nam pristižu iz svih dijelova svijeta. Vrlo dobre povratne informacije dobili smo na prestižnom Mediterranean Luxeu, posebnom predstavljanju ponude luksuznog turizma na kojem je sudjelovalo nekoliko zemalja, a održalo se u svibnju prošle godine u Singapuru u sklopu sajma luksuznog turizma International Luxury Travel Mart. Da idemo u dobrom smjeru, potvrđuje nam i sve veći broj gostiju iz svjetskog javnog života koji sve češće biraju hrvatske destinacije.

Osim toga, vrlo blisko surađujemo s Virtuosom, američkom organizacijom specijaliziranom za luksuzna putovanja, na čijim je popisima Hrvatska među zemljama s najbržim rastom u ovom području. Veseli nas i sve veći broj hrvatskih agencija koje nude usluge luksuznog turizma te svakako očekujemo nastavak njegova daljnjeg rasta i razvoja u Lijepoj Našoj.

Current trends in luxury tourism show that the needs of guests are moving further away from the material concept characterized by, for instance, buying top brands and products or visiting renowned luxury destinations and going in the direction of the experiential concept. Namely, clients are increasingly deciding to invest money in unique experiences in order to achieve inner emotional, physical or spiritual satisfaction. Certainly, due to the new situation caused by coronavirus, the definition of luxury tourism is changing, and the concept of luxury begins to include diverse and unique vacation options tailored to the needs of each client, in an indigenous, preserved and beautiful environment with rich history and culture and with superior service. Croatia’s tourist offer – which includes topquality accommodation and services, gastronomy, preserved natural beauty and a Mediterranean lifestyle – certainly offers experiences which are interesting in the context of luxury tourism. Destinations such as Rovinj, Dubrovnik, Opatija, Hvar and others which have a quality hotel offer, marinas, the remaining attractions and other infrastructure stand out, and we should emphasize the quality of the overall service, such as speed and availability of staff, which is also important when talking about luxury travel.

New trends are being set and wellbeing is becoming a hot topic. How much do global estimates affect the shaping of our luxury offer and the future of luxury tourism in Croatia? Can we offer luxury wellbeing to our guests?

We could say that luxury tourism is actually tourism with added value to it and as such can be included in almost every part of the tourist offer, from nautical and health tourism to shopping and business tourism, as well as in accommodation and other offers. Croatia can boast of the fact that, in a relatively small area, it offers a lot of diversity, experiences and unforgettable moments with cordiality and hospitability of the hosts. When it comes to luxury tourism, we are making progress year after year, and confirmation is coming to us from all parts of the world. We received very good feedback at the prestigious Mediterranean Luxe, a special presentation of the luxury tourism offer, which was attended by several countries, and was held in May last year in Singapore as part of the International Luxury Travel Market Asia Pacific tourist fair.

The growing number of guests from world public life, who are increasingly choosing Croatian destinations, shows us that we are going in the right direction.

Besides, we work very closely with Virtuoso, an American organization specializing in luxury travel.

On their lists Croatia is among the fastest growing countries in this region. We are also pleased with the growing number of Croatian agencies that offer luxury tourism services, and we certainly expect the continuation of its further growth and development in Croatia.

KAD JE RIJEČ O LUKSUZNOM TURIZMU, NAPREDUJEMO IZ GODINE U GODINU, A POTVRDE NAM PRISTIŽU IZ SVIH DIJELOVA SVIJETA WHEN IT COMES TO LUXURY TOURISM, WE ARE MAKING PROGRESS YEAR AFTER YEAR, AND CONFIRMATION IS COMING TO US FROM ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD.

KAKO SU SE PREMIUM HOTELI PRILAGODILI IZAZOVIMA U 2020.

IN WHAT WAY HAVE PREMIUM HOTELS ADAPTED TO THE CHALLENGES OF 2020

LOŠINJ HOTELS & VILLAS REGENT PORTO MONTENEGRO Regent Porto Montenegro je luksuzni hotel s pet zvjezdica koji se nalazi u samom srcu marine Porto Montenegro, a sinonim je za luksuzni odmor i personalizirane usluge. Izolaciju zbog virusa COVID-19 iskoristili su za aktivnu komunikaciju s partnerima i gostima te kreiranje kampanja kojima se ističu sigurnost, posebnosti i usluge samog hotela, ali i regije.

Smatraju da će godina biti specifična, da će klijenti koji budu mogli putovati svakako biti oni koji i inače uživaju u luksuznim proizvodima te da će Crna Gora biti jedna od najtraženijih destinacija u Europi, zem­lja koja se i strateški odlučila razvijati kao luksuzna turistička destinacija. Porto Montenegro, nautičko naselje i marina za megajahte, u fokusu razvoja ima nautički turizam te od 2006. godine, kada se počeo razvijati, drži kontinuitet u pružanju iznimno visoke razine usluga.

Regent Porto Montenegro is a five-star luxury hotel located in the heart of Porto Montenegro Marina. Regent brand today is synonymous with luxury holidays and personalized services. They used the isolation period due to COVID-19 pandemic for active communication with partners and guests and for creating the campaigns which put emphasis on the safety, specialties and services of the hotel itself, but also the region.

They believe that the year will be specific, that clients who will be able to travel will certainly be those that usually enjoy luxury products and that Montenegro will be one of the most popular destinations in Europe. It is a country that has strategically decided to develop as a luxury tourist destination. Porto Montenegro, a nautical resort and marina for megayachts, has focused on the development of nautical tourism, and since 2006, when it began to develop, it has maintained continuity in providing an extremely high level of services.

STO R I E S, C R O AT I A N U N I Q U E H OT E L S Stories hoteli poslovanje temelje na jedinstvenom iskustvu i vjeruju da će gosti nakon krize prouzročene pandemijom virusa COVID-19 više nego prije birati male hotele i autentično, osobno iskustvo koje nude njihovi hoteli. Svi hoteli iz grupacije Stories, Croatian Unique maksimalno su prilagođeni situaciji, uvedeni su iznimno fleksibilni uvjeti otkaza rezervacija, a u ponudi su i dodatne usluge u cijeni smještaja. Osim toga, u stalnoj komunikaciji s gostima i partnerima naglasak se stavlja na pravodobne i točne podatke o mjerama vezanim uz pandemiju koje su na snazi u Hrvatskoj i u hotelima.

Stories hotels business is based on a unique experience and they believe that after the crisis caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, guests will rather choose small hotels and the authentic, personal experience offered by their hotels. All hotels from the Stories, Croatian Unique Hotels group are maximally adapted to the situation. They introduced extremely flexible cancellation policies and offer additional services included in the price of accommodation. Also, in constant communication with guests and partners, they put emphasis on timely and accurate data on pandemic-related measures in force in Croatia and in hotels.

Prilagodba poslovanja, praćenje trendova te poboljšanje usluge obilježili su razdoblje pandemije koronavirusa. S obzirom na preporuku držanja fizičke distanciranosti, bilježe pojačanu potražnju za odmorom manjih grupa i privatnim najmom vila za buduća putovanja, posebno s inozemnih tržišta. Tom trendu najviše odgovaraju hoteli i vile s pet zvjezdica u uvali Čikat, kao što su hotel Bellevue, Boutique Hotel Alhambra te ekskluzivne vile Hortensia, Mirasol i Augusta, a oni privlače upravo goste koji cijene privatnost. Vjeruju da će se u trenutačnoj situaciji destinacije duge tradicije razvoja turizma, poput Lošinja i brendova kao što je Lošinj Hotels & Villas koji imaju ponudu s oznakom pet zvjezdica, bolje i kvalitetnije pozicionirati na ukupnom tržištu upravo u luksuznom segmentu tržišta.

Adapting to new forms of business, keeping up with trends and service improvement marked the period of the COVID-19 pandemic. Due to the recommendation to keep a physical distance, they record an increased demand for holidays for smaller groups of people and private rental of villas for future travel, especially by guests from foreign markets. Five-star hotels and villas in Čikat Bay, such as Hotel Bellevue, Boutique Hotel Alhambra and the exclusive villas Hortensia, Mirasol and Augusta, are the most suitable for this trend, and they attract guests who value privacy. They believe that in the current situation, destinations with a long tradition of tourism development, such as Lošinj and brands such as Lošinj Hotels & Villas, which have a five-star offer, will position themselves better in the overall market precisely in the luxury segment of the market.

HOTEL ESPLANADE ZAGREB Pandemija prouzročena koronavirusom, nažalost, još nije prestala, što neminovno utječe na putovanja i poslovanje hotela, pa tako i na Hotel Esplanade. Hotel je ponovno otvoren u svibnju ove godine, a u lipnju se bilježi popunjenost do 20%. Gosti više nego ikada prije cijene visoke higijenske i sigurnosne standarde pa to treba isticati te ih prilagođavati potrebama gostiju i osoblja, a sve radi sprečavanja širenja zaraze. Kao najbolji oblik promocije luksuznog turizma ističu reputaciju te kontinuirano ulaganje u vrhunsku kvalitetu, kao i prilagodbu promjenama.

Usmena predaja odličan je način promocije jer gosti svakodnevno dijele svoje doživljaje i iskustvo boravka, a u Hotelu Esplanade i dalje se oslanjaju na nju.

The pandemic caused by the corona virus unfortunately has not ended yet, which inevitably affects the travel and business of the hotels, including the Esplanade Hotel. The hotel reopened in May this year and in June the hotel occupancy rate was around 20%. Guests appreciate high hygiene and safety standards more than ever before so this should be emphasized and tailored to the needs of guests and staff, all in order to prevent the spread of the infection. As the best form of promoting luxury tourism, they emphasize the reputation and continuous investment in top quality, as well as adaptability to changes. Word of mouth is a great way to promote because guests share their hotel stay experiences on a daily basis, and at the Esplanade Hotel the emphasis is still put on that.

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″ONAJ TKO SE MIJENJA I UNAPREĐUJE BRŽE OD DRUGIH

STJEČE PREDNOST″

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SAMO JE PROMJENA STA L N A - M A KS I M A J E U K O J U S N A Ž N O VJ E R U J E PREDSJEDNIK UPRAVE PRIVREDNE BANKE ZAGREB DINKO LUCIĆ.

NAGRAĐIVANI MENADŽER T E M E L J E R A STA I NAPRETKA U POSLU VIDI U TRAJNOJ POSLOVNOJ I OSOBNOJ NADOGRADNJI, INOVACIJI TE LJUDSKOM FA K TO R U - N E T W O R K I N G U I OSLUŠKIVANJU K L I J E N ATA , A N J E G O V A P R I Č A O U S PJ E H U U KOMPETITIVNOM BANKARSKOM OKRUŽENJU TO I POTVRĐUJE

RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: DU B RAVK A TOMEKOVIĆ ARA L I C A FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : DRAŽEN KOKORIĆ I ARHIVA PBZ -a

INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

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admećimo se tko će više pomoći zajednici”, rekao je Dinko Lucić (49), predsjednik Uprave Privredne banke Zagreb (PBZ), nakon što je predstavnicima zagrebačke Klinike za infektivne bolesti početkom veljače uručio vrijednu donaciju za nabavu medicinske opreme. Svijetom se širio koronavirus, a banka godine u Hrvatskoj prema izboru financijskog časopisa The Banker te njezin čelnik, menadžer godine u kategoriji velikih poduzeća prema izboru Hrvatskog udruženja menadžera i poduzetnika (CROMA), reagirali su odmah - kako se od najboljih i očekuje. Ni dva mjeseca poslije, suočeni s pandemijom koronavirusa te posljedicama snažnog potresa koji je pogodio Zagreb i okolicu, za osam su bolnica donirali dodatna sredstva, ukupno 4,9 milijuna kuna za medicinsku opremu.

Humanitarni aspekt djelovanja PBZ-a zaokružuje priču o uspjehu na poslovnoj i društvenoj razini. Dinko Lucić za prvi broj b2b magazina Adria Luxury Society otkriva kako se PBZ nosi s izazovima pandemije i krize, kako se prilagođava trendovima u suvremenom bankarstvu, zašto su osobni kontakti za bankara važniji od virtualnih, kako izabrati prave ambasadore za promociju brenda te kako su nogomet i priče iz antičke Grčke utjecali na njegovu težnju da uvijek može postići više i bolje.

Kako u svijetu bankarske konkurencije postati najbolji i ostati na vrhu?

Možda zvuči pretenciozno kada svi stalno govore o inovacijama, no mi smo zaista - banka inovator.

Najvažnije je imati motivirane i dobro organizirane timove koji su u svakom trenutku sposobni proizvesti novu kvalitetu te pronaći nove načine zadovoljavanja potreba društva koje se neprestano mijenja. Ne zaboravimo, stalna na svijetu samo mijena jest. Onaj tko se mijenja i unapređuje brže od drugih - stječe prednost. To se osobito potvrđuje sada u ovoj teškoj situaciji bez presedana s kojom se svijet suočava.

Kako je pandemija koronavirusa utjecala na funkcioniranje vašega bankarskog sustava?

Kao društveno odgovorna institucija PBZ je vrlo rano poduzeo sve potrebne mjere prevencije radi zaštite zaposlenika i klijenata, osiguravši nesmetan rad i kontinuitet svih poslovnih procesa te dostupnost usluga klijentima i u izvanrednim okolnostima pandemije.

Digitalizacija poslovanja, mogućnost pružanja širokog spektra usluga klijentima putem digitalnih servisa banke, kao i spremnost te opremljenost zaposlenika za rad od kuće pokazali su se iznimno važnima. Drago mi je što su naši klijenti, ali i zaposlenici te Sindikat djelatnika PBZ-a prepoznali da nam je sigurnost lju-

'THE ONE WHO CHANGES AND IMPROVES THE FASTEST GAINS THE ADVANTAGE' T H E O N LY C O N S T A N T I S C H A N G E , T H I S I S T H E M A X I M T H AT T H E C E O O F P R I V R E D N A B A N K A Z A G R E B , D I N K O L U C I Ć S T R O N G LY BELIEVES IN. THE AWARD-WINNING MANAGER S E E S T H E FO U N D AT I O N S O F G R O W T H A N D A D V A N C E M E N T I N C O N STA N T B U S I N E S S A N D P E R S O N A L U P G R A D E , I N N O V AT I O N A N D H U M A N FA C TO R - N E T W O R K I N G A N D LISTENING TO CUSTOMERS. HIS SUCCESS STORY IN A COMPETITIVE BANKING ENVIRONMENT CONFIRMS THIS

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et’s compete over who will help the community most,” said Dinko Lucić, 49, president of the Management Board of Privredna banka Zagreb, after handing a valuable donation to the Zagreb University Hospital for Infectious Diseases in early February to purchase medical equipment.

As the Covid - 19 spread around the world, the bank of the year in Croatia – according to The Banker financial magazine – and its head, manager of the year in the large companies category according to the Croatian Managers› and Entrepreneurs› Association (CROMA), responded promptly – as might be expected from the very best. Less than two months later, faced with the Covid - 19 pandemic and the consequences of the strong earthquake that hit Zagreb and its surroundings, they donated additional funds – a total of 4.9 million kuna for medical equipment for eight hospitals. The humanitarian aspect of PBZ›s activities brings the business and social success story full circle. For the first issue of the b2b magazine Adria Luxury Society, Dinko Lucić reveals how PBZ copes with the challenges of pandemics and crises, how it adapts to modern banking trends, why personal contact is more important for bankers than virtual contact, how to choose the right brand ambassadors, and why football and stories from ancient Greece influenced his aspiration to always achieve more and do better.

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY WE HAVE 2.3 MILLION CLIENTS IN THE REGION, OVER 1,000 OF OUR OWN ATMS AND ABOUT 270 BRANCH OFFICES; OUR GOAL IN THE NEAR FUTURE IS TO PROVIDE THE SAME QUALITY SERVICES IN EACH COUNTRY

di, dakle klijenata i djelatnika, na prvome mjestu.

Osim toga, visoka tehnološka opremljenost, dobro planiranje, krizni tim koji je u banci neprestano zasjedao i, sukladno tome, dobra organiziranost omogućili su nam da banka, kad je riječ o pružanju usluga, funkcionira neometano. Što se promijenilo u odnosu s klijentima otkako je pandemija nametnula nova pravila ponašanja u društvenim kontaktima?

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U vrijeme lockdowna, kada se preporučivala socijalna distanciranost, upravo su nam snažna digitalizacija i prilagodba poslovanja novim okolnostima omogućili da budemo blizu svojih klijenata iako više nisu morali dolaziti u banku. PBZ je predvodnik na tržištu kad je riječ o novim tehnologijama te razvijanju novih proiz­ voda i usluga za građane i tvrtke. Niz naših inovacija vrlo je dugačak. Istaknuo bih samo neke koje smo prvi uveli: internetsko bankarstvo, mobilno plaćanje bazirano na USSD tehnologiji davne 2003., kada je to bila rijetkost u svijetu, čip kartica... Osim toga, prva smo poslovna banka u Hrvatskoj koja klijentima pruža usluge Google Pay i Apple Pay. Uložili smo znatne napore u vlastitu preobrazbu, temeljito smo redizajnirali i nadogradili sadržaje te dostupnost digitalnih usluga na mobilnim i internetskim platformama. U PBZ-u se 96% transakcija obavlja elektroničkim putem, a višekanalni koncept digitalnog bankarstva, uz mogućnost personalizirane aplikacije, prilagođen je željama i potrebama klijenata. Nadalje, naši zaposlenici u poslovnicama cijelo su vrijeme bili na raspolaganju i posvećeni klijentima koji su morali doći obaviti uslugu ondje.

Kako bismo ih zaštitili i istodobno osigurali dostupnost usluga, prilagodili smo radno vrijeme poslovnica, organizirali rad u timovima, osigurali dezinficijense, zaštitne maske, pregrade od pleksiglasa, dovoljan razmak te poseban režim ulaska i kretanja poslovnicama.

Ponosni smo što u trenutku davanja ovog intervjua nemamo nijednoga zaraženog djelatnika, ni u Hrvatskoj, ni u Sloveniji, ni u Bosni i Hercegovini. Što očekujete, kako će se ova situacija koju nitko u svijetu nije mogao predvidjeti odraziti na poslovanje vaše banke i klijenata?

Nedvojbeno je da će pandemija i posljedice lockdowna imati velik utjecaj na svjetsko gospodarstvo te je u ovom trenutku još neizvjesno procjenjivati razmjere krize prouzročene virusom COVID-19.

PBZ je visoko likvidna i kapitalizirana banka sa stopom adekvatnosti kapitala znatno iznad regula-

| Važan je aspekt poslovanja PBZ-a humanitarni rad, a na pandemiju koronavirusa reagirali su donacijama u ukupnoj vrijednosti od 4,9 milijuna kuna | For PBZ, humanitarian work is an important aspect - to the coronavirus pandemic they respondened with donations worth a total of HRK 4.9 million

How do you become the best in the competitive world of banking and stay on top?

It may sound pretentious since everyone is always talking about innovation, but we really are precisely that – a bank innovator. The most important thing is to have motivated and well-organised teams that can bring about new forms of quality at all times and find new ways to meet the needs of a constantly changing society. Let’s not forget that the only constant in the world is change itself. The one who changes and improves the fastest gains the advantage. This is especially clear at the moment, in this difficult and unprecedented situation that the world is facing.

How has the Covid - 19 pandemic affected the functioning of your banking system?

As a socially responsible institution, PBZ took all the necessary preventive measures in order to protect employees and clients and to ensure the smooth operation and continuity of all business processes and the availability of services to clients even under the extraordinary circumstances of a pandemic. The digitalisation of business, providing a wide range of services to clients through the bank›s digital services, as well as the readiness and equipment of our employees to work from home, were of the utmost importance. I am glad that our clients, employees and the PBZ Employees› Union have recognised that the safety of our people, that is to say, our clients and employees, is our absolute priority. On the other hand, our top-notch technological equipment, good planning, the Crisis Team that continuously convened in the bank, and good organisation enabled us to ensure that all the Bank’s services continue to function smoothly.

What has changed in your relationship with clients since the pandemic imposed new rules of conduct concerning social contact?

U REGIJI IMAMO 2,3 MILIJUNA KLIJENATA, VIŠE OD 1000 BANKOMATA I OKO 270 POSLOVNICA, A CILJ NAM JE U BLISKOJ BUDUĆNOSTI PRUŽATI PODJEDNAKO KVALITETNE USLUGE U SVAKOJ OD ZEMALJA

tornih zahtjeva koja neprestano pruža snažnu podršku zemlji, tvrtkama i građanima kako bi im osigurala kontinuitet poslovanja. Vjerujem da ćemo zajedničkim snagama uspješno prebroditi ovo izazovno razdoblje. Klijentima s financijskim poteškoćama prouzročenim pandemijom, građanima i poslovnim subjektima u travnju smo počeli odobravati odgodu plaćanja kredita u trajanju od šest mjeseci, omogućili smo online predaju zahtjeva za moratorij te vrlo brzu realizaciju. Za određene sezonalne industrije teže pogođene pandemijom, kao što je turizam, moratorij je produljen do 12 mjeseci. Osim te mjere, pravnim osobama i obrtnicima na raspolaganju su i krediti za očuvanje financijske likvidnosti, kao i mogućnost ugovaranja reprograma kreditnih obveza.

Pomno pratimo daljnji razvoj događaja, promjene na kreditnom portfelju i potrebe naših klijenata te ćemo u skladu s tim pravodobno reagirati. Mi u PBZ-u i u Intesa Sanpaolo Grupi uvijek smo bili uz ljude u vrijeme krize, računajući pritom i na solidarnost te entuzijazam naših zaposlenika.

Je li uvođenje Premium Visa kartice prošle godine bilo najvažniji poslovni pothvat PBZ-a i kako ste time zadovoljni?

Da, riječ je o velikom i vrlo zahtjevnom projektu.

Iznimno smo zadovoljni. Premium Visa kartice odlično su prihvaćene i bilježimo veću aktivnost novih kartica u odnosu na stari brend u svim ključnim portfeljima. S aspekta poslovnog pothvata, koji je vrlo složen, a i rizičan, možemo reći da je konverzija odrađena izvrsno.

Preuzimanjem većinskog vlasništva u bankama Intesa Sanpaolo Grupe u BiH i Sloveniji, PBZ je postao regionalni bankarski centar. Što to konkretno znači u brojkama te s obzirom na mogućnost razvoja banke?

Stavljanje težišta na PBZ i Hrvatsku kao regionalni centar bankarskog huba veliko je priznanje ekspertizi i poslovanju koje njegujemo godinama. To znači da će se u Hrvatskoj zapošljavati kvalitetni ljudi koji će moći pridonijeti rastu i razvoju ostalih banaka te ih u tehnološkom i poslovnom smislu dovesti na razinu PBZ-a. U regiji imamo 2,3 milijuna klijenata, više od 1000 bankomata i oko 270 poslovnica, a cilj nam je u bliskoj budućnosti pružati podjednako kvalitetne usluge u svakoj od zemalja. Naravno, ciljamo na najvišu razinu kakva je u najrazvijenijim zapadnim zemljama i društvima.

In a time of preferred social distance and lockdown, it was this strong digitalisation and the adaptation of business to new circumstances that allowed us to be close to our clients, even though there was no longer a need to come to the bank.

PBZ is a market leader in new technologies and the development of new products and services for citizens and businesses. The list of our innovations is very long.

I would like to point out just a few of our firsts: Internet banking, mobile payments based on USSD technology back in 2003, when it was a rarity in the world, and chip cards. We are the first commercial bank in Croatia to provide clients with both Google Pay and Apple Pay services. We have made significant efforts in our own transformation and the content and availability of digital services on mobile and online platforms have been thoroughly redesigned and upgraded. Here at PBZ, 96 percent of transactions are performed electronically and the multi-channel concept of digital banking, with personalised application, is adapted to the clients’ wishes and needs. On the other hand, our employees in the branch offices were available at all times and dedicated to the clients who needed to come to the branch office. In order to protect them and to ensure the availability of services, we adjusted the branch office working hours, organised teamwork, provided disinfectants, protective masks, plexiglas partitions, sufficient space and a special regime of entry and movement within the branch offices.

We are proud that at the time of this interview we do not have a single infected employee in Croatia, Slovenia or Bosnia and Herzegovina.

How do you expect this situation, which no one in the world could have foreseen, to affect the operations of the Bank and its clients?

There is no doubt that the pandemic and the consequences of the lockdown will have a significant impact on the world economy and at this point, it is still difficult to assess the extent of the COVID-19 crisis. PBZ is a highly liquid and capitalised bank with a capital adequacy ratio well above the regulatory requirements, which continuously provides strong support to the country, businesses and citizens to ensure business continuity, and I believe that together we will successfully overcome these challenging times. In April, we began granting clients suffering from financial difficulties caused by the pandemic a six-month deferral of loan payments for citizens and businesses, and we enabled the online submission of moratorium applications and rapid implementation. For certain seasonal industries that are significantly affected by the pandemic, such as tourism, the moratorium has been extended to 12 months. In addition to the moratorium, legal entities and craftsmen also have loans available to preserve financial liquidity, as well as the possibility of loan reprogramming. We are closely monitoring the further development of events, changes in the loan portfolio and the needs of our clients, and we will respond in a timely manner. We at PBZ and the Intesa Sanpaolo Group have always been here for people in times of crisis, counting on the solidarity and enthusiasm of our employees.

Was the introduction of the Premium Visa card last year the most important business venture of PBZ and how satisfied are you with that?

Yes, it was a big and very demanding project. We are extremely pleased. The Premium Visa cards have been very well received and we are seeing more activity with the new cards than the old brand in all key portfolios. From the point of view of a business venture, which in its very nature is highly complex and risky, we can say that the conversion was excellent.

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ČOVJEK KOJI NEMA ISTINSKU VOLJU I ŽELJU ZA DRUŽENJEM I UPOZNAVANJEM DRUGIH LJUDI NE MOŽE STVORITI SNAŽNU MREŽU A PERSON LACKING A TRUE DESIRE TO SOCIALISE AND MEET OTHER PEOPLE CANNOT CREATE A STRONG NETWORK

Koliko su za čelnika hrvatske članice Intesa San­ paolo Grupe važni povezanost s lokalnom poslovnom i bankarskom zajednicom te poznavanje regije? Kako ste vi stvarali svoju mrežu?

By taking over the majority ownership in the banks of the Intesa Sanpaolo Group in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Slovenia, PBZ has become a regional banking centre. What exactly does this mean in terms of numbers and the bank’s development opportunities?

Bez obzira na sve aplikacije i virtualni svijet, posao se uvelike obavlja fizičkim povezivanjem i stvaranjem osobnih kontakata. Networking traje praktički od rođenja do kraja života. Tijekom karijere uvijek sam se bavio klijentima, građanima, proučavao sam njihove navike, modele ponašanja i potrebe. Volim ljude. To mi je, uz određenu dozu urođene znatiželje, omogućilo stalno otkrivanje i upoznavanje novih ljudi, povezivanje s njima, upoznavanje prijatelja mojih prijatelja… Čovjek koji nema istinsku volju i želju za druženjem i upoznavanjem drugih ljudi ne može stvoriti snažnu mrežu.

Focusing on PBZ and Croatia as the regional banking hub is a great recognition of the expertise and business that we have nurtured for years. This means that capable people will be employed in Croatia, people who will be able to assist in the growth and development of other banks and bring them to the level of PBZ in terms of technology and business. We have 2.3 million clients in the region, over 1,000 of our own ATMs and about 270 branch offices; our goal in the near future is to provide the same quality services in each country. Of course, we are aiming for the highest level, just as in the most developed western countries and societies.

Tri ste godine u Bratislavi bili član Uprave VÚB banke. Kakvo je vaše iskustvo života i rada u Slovačkoj?

Neprocjenjivo! Razgovarao sam sa stručnjacima za ljudske potencijale i oni kažu da se iskustvo rada u drugoj zemlji cijeni više od formalne edukacije. Jer ona je naposljetku papir, može biti usvojena, dio se može zaboraviti, ali u novom okruženju trebate uspostaviti i novu strukturu, složeni mehanizam ljudi, procesa, procedura te obavljati posao za koji ste zaduženi. Dakako, uz engleski - službeni jezik u poslovnim krugovima - naučio sam i slovački jer ako želite blisko surađivati sa zaposlenicima, razumjeti probleme i biti pravi profesionalac, morate govoriti jezik zemlje u kojoj se nalazite.

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Kao gost predavač na Ekonomskom fakultetu u Za­ grebu i Rijeci možete li usporediti generaciju studenata kojima predajete s onom dok ste vi studirali ekonomiju: jesu li obrazovaniji, otvoreniji, poduzetniji?

Uočljive su promjene u načinu razmišljanja, perspektivi i očekivanjima. Bilo bi pogrešno generacije uspoređivati po razini obrazovanosti. Kurikulum se mijenja.

Određena znanja koja su nekad bila važna podloga za nadogradnju više nisu toliko nužna. Danas je važnija specijalizacija. Tehnologija je toliko uznapredovala da je upitno koliko je korisna širina znanja kada je savladati dubinu u određenom području vrlo zahtjevno.

Uostalom, umjetna inteligencija u praksi, u aplikacijama i gadgetima svuda je oko nas. I mi je u banci dosta koristimo. Kad govorimo o otvorenosti, složio bih se kako današnje generacije imaju manje tabu tema. Sve im je dostupnije. Kad je riječ o poduzetnosti, ne vidim

How important is the connection with the local business and banking community, as well as the knowledge of the region, for the head of the Croatian member of the Intesa Sanpaolo group? How did you create your network?

Regardless of all the applications and the virtual world, the work is largely done through physical connection and personal contacts. A network is built up virtually from birth until the end of life. Throughout my career, I have always been involved with clients, citizens, studying their habits, behaviour models and needs.

I love people. This, along with a certain amount of innate curiosity, enabled me to constantly discover and meet new people, to make connections with them, to meet the friends of my friends... A person lacking a true desire to socialise and meet other people cannot create a strong network.

You were a member of the management board of VÚB Bank in Bratislava for three years. What is your experience of living and working in Slovakia?

It was an invaluable experience! I have talked to human resources experts and they say that working experience in another country is valued more than formal education. This is because that is ultimately just a piece of paper and, while it can be something you have mastered, some of it will be forgotten. In a new environment, however, you need to establish a new structure, a complex mechanism of people, processes, procedures, and ultimately do the job you are in charge of.

Of course, besides English – the official language in business circles – I also learned Slovak, because if you want to work closely with employees, understand their problems and be a true professional, you must speak the language of the country you are in.

As a guest lecturer at the Faculty of Economics and Business in Zagreb and Rijeka, can you compare the generation of students that you teach with the generation you studied economics with? Are they more educated, more openminded, more enterprising?

Changes in thinking, perspectives and expectations are evident. It would be wrong to compare generations in terms of education. The curriculum is changing. Some skills that used to be an important foundation are no longer necessary in the same way. Today it is all about specialisation. Technology has advanced so much that it is questionable how useful breadth of knowledge is when it is so highly demanding to master a particular area in depth. Besides, artificial intelligence is all around us

| “Određena znanja koja su nekada bila važna podloga za nadogradnju više nisu toliko nužna. Danas je važnija specijalizacija”, govori Lucić | ‘Some skills that used to be an important foundation are no longer necessary in the same way.

Today it is all about specialisation’, says Lucić

in practice – in our applications and our gadgets. We make extensive use of it at the Bank. When it comes to openness, I would agree that today’s generations have fewer taboo topics. Everything is more accessible to them. When it comes to enterprise, I don’t see such a great change. In general, we still suffer from a lack of entrepreneurial spirit and are placed at the very bottom (137th out of 141 countries) according to the important Global Competitiveness Index 4.0 survey. The social conditions, poor entrepreneurial climate, regulatory burden and inefficiencies in the justice system significantly contribute to the slow process of change.

How do you choose programmes to support as a socially responsible company?

veće pomake. Općenito, još patimo od manjka poduzetničkog duha i u tome smo plasirani pri samom dnu (137. od 141 zemlje svijeta) prema važnom istraživanju Global Competitiveness Index 4.0. Društvene prilike, loša poduzetnička klima, opterećenost propisima i ne­ efikasnost pravosuđa znatno pridonose usporenosti procesa promjena.

Kako birate programe koje ćete podržati kao društveno odgovorna kompanija?

U djelokrugu društveno odgovornog poslovanja godinama smo najviše posvećeni humanitarnim aktivnostima, djeci, zdravstvu i socijalno najosjetljivijim kategorijama. Tu bih posebno istaknuo naš dugogodišnji humanitarni projekt “kartice sa srcem”, jedinstven u zemlji. U odabiru i podupiranju projekata surađujemo s dugogodišnjim partnerima poput Ministarstva zdravstva, Ministarstva za demografiju, obitelj, mlade i socijalnu politiku te Hrvatskim Caritasom. Nijedna financijska institucija u Hrvatskoj u posljednjih deset godina nije donirala više od 100 milijuna kuna raznim organizacijama i ustanovama te za društveno važne projekte kao što smo mi to učinili. Osim toga, naši zaposlenici volontiraju u raznim humanitarnim akcijama i na to sam osobito ponosan.

Naše posljednje donacije usmjerene su na pomoć zdravstvenim ustanovama u suzbijanju pandemije koronavirusa te sanaciji posljedica razornog potresa koji je pogodio Zagreb i okolicu. Naglasio bih da se i tu, u odnosu na druge banke i tvrtke, izdvajamo.

In the area of corporate social responsibility, for years we have mostly been dedicated to humanitarian activities, to children, healthcare and the most socially vulnerable categories. Here, I would especially like to highlight our long-standing humanitarian project Card with a Heart, which is unique in the country. When selecting and supporting projects, we work with long-standing partners such as the Ministry of Health, the Ministry of Demographics, Family, Youth and Social Policy, and Caritas Croatia. No other financial institution in Croatia has donated more than 100 million kuna to organisations and institutions – and for socially important projects – as we have done in the last ten years. In addition, our employees volunteer in various charities and I am particularly proud of that. Our latest donations are aimed at helping health institutions in combating the Covid - 19 pandemic, as well as repairing the consequences of the devastating earthquake that hit Zagreb and its surroundings, and I would like to emphasise that we stand out from other banks and companies in that regard as well.

How did you feel about the visit to the Italian football camp organized by PBZ for 150 children within the Intesa Sanpaolo Group in Zagreb?

It was truly magical. Especially when Zlatko Dalić came to the camp. It means a lot to the children, and to us. It fills your heart with joy when you make someone happy. Sometimes you hear that bankers and banks have no heart. That’s not true. We have proven the opposite many times through example. Many citizens recognize this, and I am extremely happy when they share this with us. I look forward to future get-togethers as soon as the conditions improve.

At the Euromoney Awards for Excellence in London in 2018, ahead of the World Cup match between England and Croatia in Russia, you received the award for Best Bank in Croatia wearing a red and white accessory around your neck.

Had the decision been made at that time that coach Dalić and Luka Modrić would be the main ambassadors of the Premium Visa card?

All my professional life, I have been involved with clients, sales and marketing.

We live with the people and our mission is to help where we can, and our clients rightly expect us to have the maximum professionalism and commitment, as you would find in the largest banks in the most developed countries of the world. We primarily want to provide top-notch banking services. Part of that excellence is our cards, as well as Luka and Zlatko as the holders of the image campaign. I started talking to them about this even before the World Cup. It is not easy to choose ambassadors for specific products and services because they are associated with the brand, and this includes both their professional and private behaviour.

We would never choose an ambassador just because of their professional achie-

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Kako vas se dojmio posjet talijanskome nogometnom kampu koji je PBZ u sklopu Intesa Sanpaolo Grupe u Zagrebu organizirao za 150 djece?

Bilo je zaista čarobno. Posebno kada je u kamp došao Zlatko Dalić. To djeci puno znači, a i nama. Naše je srce ispunjeno kad nekoga usrećimo. Ponekad se u javnom govoru provlači ideja da bankari i banke nemaju srce. Nije istina. Svojim smo primjerom često pokazali suprotno, a mnogi građani to prepoznaju i iznimno sam sretan kada nam to i kažu. Veselim se i budućim susretima čim se za to stvore uvjeti.

Na dodjeli nagrade Euromoney za izvrsnost u Londonu 2018., uoči utakmice nogometnih reprezentacija Engleske i Hrvatske na Svjetskom prvenstvu u Rusiji, priznanje za najbolju banku u Hrvatskoj preuzeli ste noseći crveno-bijela obilježja oko vrata.

Je li tada donesena odluka da će izbornik Zlatko Dalić i Luka Modrić biti glavni ambasadori Premium Visa kartice?

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Cijeli svoj profesionalni život bavio sam se klijentima, prodajom i marketingom. Mi živimo s narodom i zadaća nam je pomoći ondje gdje možemo, a naši klijenti s pravom od nas očekuju maksimalnu profesionalnost te posvećenost kakva postoji u najvećim bankama najrazvijenijih zemalja svijeta. Ponajprije želimo pružiti vrhunsku bankarsku uslugu. Dio su te izvrsnosti i naše kartice te Luka i Zlatko kao nositelji imidža kampanje. Priču o tome započeo sam s njima još prije prvenstva. Nije jednostavno izabrati ambasadore za određene proizvode i usluge jer oni su svojim profesionalnim i privatnim ponašanjem povezani s brendom. Nikada ne bismo izabrali ambasadora samo zbog njegovih profesionalnih postignuća, važno nam je da nas predstavljaju ljudi snažne osobnosti, a kod Luke i Zlatka baš smo to prepoznali.

Igrate li vi nogomet, koliko vam fizička aktivnost pomažu u eliminaciji poslovnog stresa te u mentalnom osnaživanju?

Nekad sam bio jako dobar u nogometu, ali posao i uredski način života toliko su utjecali na moju kralježnicu da više nisam za ozbiljniji sport. Ipak, u teretani odrađujem vježbe koje su mi važne. Fizička aktivnost pomaže mi reducirati stres i zaista bih je svakome preporučio jer radni dan menadžera danas često traje i dulje od dvanaest sati. Prije bih zasjeo ispred TV-a nakon napornog dana, a znamo da to

vements. We want to be represented by people with strong personalities – and with Luka and Zlatko, we have found our match.

Do you play football? How much does physical activity help you eliminate business stress and achieve mental empowerment?

I used to be really good at football, but my business and office lifestyle have affected my spine so much that I am no longer fit for any serious activities.

However, at the gym, I do certain exercises that are important to me. Physical activity helps me reduce stress and I would really recommend it to anyone as the workday of a manager today often exceeds twelve hours. I used to sit in front of the TV after a busy day, and we know that’s not good. Fortunately, I’ve changed that. By exercising as much as you can, you have already done a lot for your health.

Since becoming the head of PBZ, you have also won personal awards: the CEO Today Europe Award and the Manager of the Year in the large company category, as selected by CROMA. What has been the most important influence in the formation of your world view and development path in the world of banking?

I lost my father when I was eighteen. By then, I had already received the words of advice and orientation that one receives from their family. After that, I made my own way. I learned from better, wiser, older people. You learn every single day that you’re alive. I studied Ancient Greece and Rome a lot, re-reading the stories and wisdom of classical antiquity. I always try to give my very best; it is important to constantly work on yourself, to improve in every way. I know that I can always do better, faster, more.

What are the global trends in banking? Are Croatian users of PBZ services on digital platforms ready for the abolition of cash payments?

We are completely in tune with the trends and changing needs and habits of our clients. We are not giving up on the branch office, only adapting it. It will become a centre of financial expertise where highly trained staff can advise clients.

Fifteen years ago, at a conference, I had a debate with a German professor who assured the audience that bank branch offices would disappear within five years.

He was a professor of computer science and I am an expert in client management.

Guess who was right. There is no question that technology can do everything online, but what the client wants is what matters. As long as they want to see a friendly human face in front of them instead of algorithmic speech, there will be branch offices. The same is true with cash. Coins were in use with the Lydians in Asia Minor as early as the 7th century BC and have not changed significantly to this day. Moreover, it is still the preferred method of payment the world over.

So, yes, we need to fight to reduce cash circulation, but I am aware that our generation will not experience a complete abolition of cash. Additionally, the fact is that the pandemic has affected the increased use of digital banking and card payments.

Which bank service do you use the most?

Mobile banking. We are really proud of it and I would recommend anyone who isn’t using it to contract PBZ mobile banking as soon as possible.

| Ambasadori brenda Premium Visa kartice - nogometaš Luka Modrić i Zlatko Dalić, izbornik hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije, s Dinkom Lucićem na prošlogodišnjem talijanskom nogometnom kampu u Zagrebu, u kojem je sudjelovao i proslavljeni talijanski igrač Roberto Baggio (gore lijevo) | Premium Visa card brand ambassadors - football player Luka Modrić and Zlatko Dalić, head coach of the Croatian national football team with Dinko Lucić at last year's Italian football camp in Zagreb, in which the famous Italian player Roberto Baggio also participated

nije dobro. Srećom, to sam promijenio. Treba vježbati koliko možete i već ste učinili puno za zdravlje.

Otkako ste postali čelnik PBZ-a, osvajate i osobne nagrade: CEO Today Europe Award te menadžer godine u kategoriji velikih poduzeća prema izboru CROMA-e. Što je najviše utjecalo na formiranje vašeg svjetonazora i razvojnog puta u svijetu bankarstva?

Ostao sam bez oca kad mi je bilo osamnaest. Do tada sam stekao najvažnija usmjerenja koja svakome pruža obitelj. Dalje sam se probijao sam. Učio sam od boljih, mudrijih, starijih. Čovjek svaki dan tijekom života uči.

Puno sam proučavao antičku Grčku i Rim, iznova čitao priče i mudrosti starog vijeka. Uvijek nastojim dati najviše i najbolje od sebe, važno je neprestano raditi na sebi, usavršavati se u svakom smislu. Znam da uvijek može bolje, brže, sveobuhvatnije.

Kakvi su globalni trendovi u bankarstvu? Jesu li hrvatski korisnici PBZ-ovih usluga na digitalnim platformama zreli za ukidanje plaćanja gotovinom?

Potpuno smo usklađeni s trendovima te promijenjenim potrebama i navikama klijenata. Ne odričemo se poslovnice nego je mijenjamo. Ona postaje centar financijske ekspertize gdje visoko educirani djelatnici mogu savjetovati klijente. Prije petnaest godina na jednoj konferenciji polemizirao sam s njemačkim profesorom koji je uvjeravao publiku da će u roku od pet godina nestati bankarske poslovnice. On je bio profesor informatike, a ja ekspert za upravljanje klijentima. Pogađate tko je bio u pravu. Nije upitno da tehnologija može sve odraditi online, ali važno je što klijenti žele. Dokle god budu htjeli pred sobom vidjeti toplo ljudsko lice umjesto algoritamskoga govora, bit će i poslovnica. Isto vrijedi i kad je riječ o gotovini. Kovani su novac Lidijci u Maloj Aziji upotrebljavali još u 7. stoljeću prije Krista i do danas se nije znatno promijenio. Štoviše, u svjetskim razmjerima to je i dalje preferirani način plaćanja. Dakle, da, trebamo se boriti za smanjenje optjecaja gotovine, ali svjestan sam da naša generacija neće doživjeti njezino potpuno ukidanje. Činjenica je da je pandemija utjecala na pojačano korištenje digitalnog bankarstva i kartičnog plaćanja.

Koju uslugu banke vi najčešće koristite?

Mobilno bankarstvo. Doista smo ponosni na to i preporučio bih onima koji ga ne koriste neka što prije ugovore mobilno bankarstvo u PBZ-u.

NIKADA NE BISMO IZABRALI AMBASADORA SAMO ZBOG NJEGOVIH PROFESIONALNIH POSTIGNUĆA, VAŽNO NAM JE DA NAS PREDSTAVLJAJU LJUDI SNAŽNE OSOBNOSTI WE WOULD NEVER CHOOSE AN AMBASSADOR JUST BECAUSE OF THEIR PROFESSIONAL ACHIEVEMENTS. WE WANT TO BE REPRESENTED

BY PEOPLE WITH STRONG PERSONALITIES

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

SAVEZ ZA ODRŽIVI LUKSUZ

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D O N E D A V N O J E Z L AT N O P R A V I L O I N D U ST R I J E L J E P OT E B I L O P R O I Z V E ST I O D L I Č A N P R O I Z V O D, N O TO V I Š E N I J E D O V O L J N O. N O V E G E N E R A C I J E , A L I I O K O L N O S T I P R O U Z R O Č E N E K O R O N A V I R U S O M P O S T A V I L E S U Z A H TJ E V E KOJI SE TEMELJE NA ODRŽIVOSTI, ETIČNOSTI I AUTENTIČNOSTI, A VELIKE LUKSUZNE KUĆE PREDVODE VAL OSVIJEŠTENOG POSLOVANJA NA PI SA LA _ W O R DS: M A RT IN A R A FAELI FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO S: L E O N O R GREY L P RESS, SHU TTERSTOCK

SUSTAINABLE LUXURY PARTNERSHIP

CLEAN BEAUTY. SLOW BEAUTY. NATURAL. ZERO WASTE. NO PLASTIC.

T

o su samo neki od termina nastali kao posljedica reakcije tržišta na činjenicu da upravo industrija ljepote na brojne načine pridonosi negativnom trendu zagađenja prirode, uništavanju prirodnih izvora, gomilanju otpada... Te zahtjeve danas je nemoguće ignorirati, oni su glas tržišta, sve osvještenijih potrošača, posebice mlađe generacije koja je i akumulator uspješnog poslovanja brojnih brendova, pa tako i onih luksuznih. Preokret u tom smjeru dogodio se prije nekoliko godina, kada nas je na globalnoj razini, među ostalim, projekt Blue Planet suočio s posljedicama zagađenja mora i morskog svijeta plastikom. Reakcija je urodila akcijom, potrebom za kupnjom manje beauty proizvoda, biranjem proizvoda pakiranih u prirodnu i recikliranu ambalažu te podrškom brendovima koji su u svom poslovanju transparentni do najsitnijeg detalja.

Tako je svijet ljepote zakoračio u 2020. svjesniji problema održivosti, ali i vođen idejom kako svaki pojedinac tome može pridonijeti.

No 2020. godina donijela je i neočekivanu situaciju - COVID-19.

Pandemiju koja je bila razlog zatvaranja brojnih prodajnih mjesta, pada prihoda, ali i brze reakcije mnogih beauty brendova koji su se usmjerili na proizvodnju dezinficijensa i zaštitu zdravlja. Koliko je pandemija utjecala na strateške planove i investicije u održivost, tek će se vidjeti, ali važno je istaknuti da je to razdoblje potaknulo proizvođače i kupce da krenu novim smjerom. Dobri rezultati bilježe se u digitalu, evidentan je porast inovativnih ideja u poslovanju, kao i jačanje wellbeing pokreta. Upravo je važnost wellbeinga jedna od ključnih činjenica koje vode do oporavka

U P U N T I L R E C E N T LY, T H E GOLDEN RULE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WAS TO MAKE A G R E A T P R O D U C T, B U T T H A T I S JUST NOT ENOUGH ANY LONGER. N E W G E N E R AT I O N S, A S W E L L A S T H E C O V I D - 1 9 C I R C U M STA N C E S, HAVE SET REQUIREMENTS BASED O N S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y, E T H I C S A N D A U T H E N T I C I T Y, A N D L A R G E L U X U RY B R A N D S A R E AT T H E FOREFRONT OF THIS WAVE OF CONSCIOUS BUSINESS

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lean beauty. Slow beauty. Natural. Zero waste. No plastic. These are just some of the terms created as a result of the market reaction to the fact that the beauty industry in many ways contributes to the negative trend of nature pollution, destruction of natural resources, waste accumulation, etc. These demands are impossible to ignore today, they are the voice of the market - increasingly aware consumers, especially the younger generation, which is also the basis of successful business of many brands, including luxury ones. A reversal in that direction occurred a few years ago on a global scale, when the Blue Planet project, among others, confronted us with the consequences of polluting the sea and the marine world with plastic. The reaction resulted in action, the need to buy fewer beauty products and choose products packaged in natural and recycled packaging, as well as in support for brands that are transparent in running their business down to the smallest detail. Thus, the world of beauty stepped into 2020 more aware of the problem of sustainability, but also guided by the idea of how each individual can contribute to it.

But 2020 also brought an unexpected situation - COVID-19, the pandemic which was the reason for the closure of many retail outlets, falling revenues, but also the rapid reaction of many beauty brands which focused on the production of disinfectants and health protection. How much the pandemic has affected strategic plans and investments in sustainability is to be seen, but it is important to point out that this period has prompted producers and buyers to take a new direction. Good results are recorded in the digital segment. There is an evident increase in innovative ideas in business as well as the strengthening of the wellbeing movement. And the importance of wellbeing is one of the very key facts leading to the recovery of the luxury goods market, which was also highlighted at the recent webinar “Luxury and COVID-19: Effects on the Industry” organized by

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY | Industrija luksuza okreće se upravo tržištu milenijalaca i pripadnika generacije Z te ima priliku postati predvodnik promjena | The luxury industry is turning to millennials and the members of Generation Z market - it has the opportunity to become a leader of change

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tržišta luksuznim proizvodima, što je istaknuto i na nedavno održanom webinaru “Luxury and COVID-19: Effects on the Industry” u organizaciji globalne nezavisne tvrtke za strateška marketinška istraživanja Euromonitor International. U održivosti je ključ, misao je koja se sada doživljava snažnije nego ikada prije. Okolnosti prouzročene pandemijom potaknule su mnoge na promišljanje, ali i djelovanje u smjeru manje kupnje, recikliranja, second life ideja te potrebe za transparentnim informacijama o sastavu beauty proizvoda. “Less ingredients is more”, “Clean beauty”, “Organic beauty is not just for yoga and spa lovers” - neke su od sveprisutnih krilatica novog beauty doba.

Stoga ne čudi što sve više poslovnih subjekata sluša zahtjeve kupaca i tržišta, prihvaća ideje i djeluje u smjeru očuvanja okoliša, etičnog poslovanja te transparentne komunikacije. Neizostavno je prihvatiti činjenicu da 85% potrošača u kategoriji globalnog luksuza čine milenijalci i pripadnici generacije Z, koji su i pokrenuli potrebu za promjenom. Industrija luksuza okreće se upravo tom tržištu te ima priliku postati predvodnik promjena.

Grupacija Kering (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga...) nedavno je u izvješću o poslovanju te u programu razvoja do 2025. za sve svoje brendove istaknula važnost poslovanja kojim će pridonositi održivosti, ističući namjeru da takvim poslovnim pristupom redefinira pojam luksuza te konkretnim planovima i strategijama pridonese pozitivnim promjenama.

François-Henri Pinault, predsjednik Uprave i CEO, tim je povodom izjavio: “U Keringu redizajniramo naše poslovanje kako bismo napredovali u ideji održivosti i istodobno pridonijeli transformaciji sektora luksuza te tako ostvarili velike društvene i ekološke izazove naše generacije.”

Održivi luksuz moguć je bez obzira na nepostojanje čvrstih definicija EU i FDA o otvorenim pitanjima vezanim uz tzv. zelenu ljepotu. Potvrđuje to i sve veći broj malih, nezavisnih brendova koji nude potpun uvid u sastojke svakog proizvoda, uz aktivan i etičan odnos prema tržištu, što prihvaćaju i veliki, luksuzni brendovi. Švicarski brend La Prairie svojim proizvodima djelomično daje odgovor na pitanje što učiniti ako vašem okruženju prijeti uništenje. Njihov su dom švicarske Alpe u kojima se suočavaju s problemom topljenja glečera i klimatskih promjena. Osim pažljivo kontrolirane proizvodnje, oni su velikom donacijom pomogli rad fondacije ETH kako bi podržali zaštitu glečera i prirode.

Primjer već dulje od 15 godina pruža i La Mer, kozmetički brend koji poslovanje zasniva na nizu projekata zaštite okoliša. Od suradnje s neprofitnom organizacijom National Geographic Society pokretanjem vlastitog projekta Blue Heart Oceans Fund radi zaštite morskog svijeta i istraživanja održivosti, taj je brend aktivan u podizanju svjesnosti o problemu mora i edukacijama te investiranjem u laboratorij i biotehnološku proizvodnju. Nedavno

Euromonitor International, a global independent strategic market research company. ‘Sustainability is key’ is a thought that is now perceived perhaps more powerfully than ever before. Circumstances caused by the pandemic have prompted many to think, but also to act in the direction of less shopping, more recycling, second life ideas and the need for transparency when it comes to the ingredient list of beauty products. “Less Ingredients Is More”, “Clean beauty”, “Organic Beauty is Not just for yoga and spa lovers” - are some of the omnipresent slogans of the new beauty age.

Therefore, it is not surprising that more and more business entities listen to the demands of their customers and the market, accept ideas and act in the direction of environmental protection, ethical business and transparent communication. It is highly important to accept the fact that 85% of consumers in the global luxury category are millennials and members of Generation Z, who have initiated the need for change. The luxury industry is turning to this market and has the opportunity to become a leader of change.

In their recent business report and development program until 2025, the Kering Group (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga ...) emphasized the importance of running business which will contribute to sustainability for all its brands, emphasizing the intention to redefine the concept of luxury with such business approach and to contribute to positive change through concrete plans and strategies. François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO, said: “At Kering, we are redesigning our business to advance the idea of sustainability and at the same time contribute to the transformation of the luxury sector, thus achieving the great social and environmental challenges of our generation.”

Sustainable luxury is possible regardless of the lack of firm definitions of the EU and the FDA on open issues related to the so-called 'green beauty'. This is confirmed by the growing number of small, independent brands which offer complete insight into the ingredi-

OKOLNOSTI PROUZROČENE PANDEMIJOM POTAKNULE SU MNOGE NA PROMIŠLJANJE, ALI I DJELOVANJE U SMJERU MANJE KUPNJE, RECIKLIRANJA I SECOND LIFE IDEJA CIRCUMSTANCES CAUSED BY THE PANDEMIC HAVE PROMPTED MANY TO THINH, BUT ALSO TO ACT IN THE DIRECTION OF LESS SHOPPING, MORE RECYCLING, SECOND LIFE IDEAS

su pokrenuli i partnerski projekt s kineskim gigantom Tencentom radi čišćenja oceana i mora od plastike, a projektu se dosad pridružila zajednica od oko pet milijuna ljudi.

Luksuzni francuski proizvođač kozmetike za kosu Leonor Greyl Paris od osnutka 1968. godine ističe brigu o prirodi i okolišu, a danas svu proizvodnju temelji na ekološki prihvatljivim formulama na bazi prirodnih sastojaka, koje su koncentrirane kako bi se ograničila količina ambalaže. Proizvodi ovog brenda, koji se nikada ne testiraju na životinjama, čuvaju i okoliš. Bočice i kutijice proizvoda Leonor Greyl izrađene su od reciklirane PET ambalaže. Najnoviji partnerski odnos sklopljen s udrugom La Collecte du Coiffeur (udruženje frizera s naglaskom na brigu o okolišu, op. a.) također je dio te posvećenosti, a pozornost posebno privlači podrška udruzi The Sea Cleaners, čija je misija izgraditi katamaran Manta koji može prikupiti više od 100 tona plastike tijekom jednog isplovljavanja. Tvrtka Leonor Greyl niz godina sponzorira i ekološki pčelinjak zahvaljujući udruzi Un toit pour les abeilles, pružajući utočište pčelama radi zaštite te ugrožene vrste i očuvanja biološke raznolikosti.

Koliko će kriza i pad potrošnje izazvani pandemijom prouzročiti promjene poslovnih planova koji se odnose na održivost, teško je predvidjeti, ali velike kuće i dalje ističu svoju predanost ideji održivog poslovanja. Sve je očitije da bi 2020. godina mogla ubrzati predviđanja o dekadi pred nama, za koju je Mintel, globalna tvrtka za marketinška istraživanja, početkom godine istaknuo kako će ovaj oblik inicijative i poslovanja biti svojevrstan standard te da će industrija ljepote uspješno poslovati samo uz neprestanu suradnju s tržištem. Jer obostran i višesmjeran partnerski odnos danas ima važnu, čak i presudnu ulogu u svijetu ljepote i poslovne uspješnosti.

| Leonor Greyl niz godina sponzorira i ekološki pčelinjak zahvaljujući udruzi Un toit pour les abeilles | Leonor Greyl is a sponsor of an organic apiary in cooperation with the the Un toit pour les abeilles association

ents list of each product, with an active and ethical attitude towards the market, which is also adopted by large, luxury brands.

The Swiss brand La Prairie with its products partially answers the question of what to do if your environment is threatened with destruction. Their home is the Swiss Alps where they face the problem of melting glaciers and climate change. In addition to running a carefully controlled production, they made a large donation to help the work of the ETH Foundation to support the protection of glaciers and nature. La Mer, a cosmetic brand which bases its business on a number of environmental projects, has been setting an example for more than 15 years. Ever since they collaborated with the nonprofit organisation National Geographic Society to launch their own Blue Heart Oceans Fund project to protect the marine world and to research ocean sustainability, La Mer has been active in raising awareness of the marine problem, in education and investing in laboratory and biotechnology production. They also recently launched a partnership project with Chinese tech giant Tencent to clean the oceans and seas of plastic. The project has been joined by a community of about five million people so far.

Luxury French hair cosmetics manufacturer Leonor Greyl Paris has been putting emphasis on the care for nature and the environment since its founding in 1968. Today, all production is based on environmentally friendly formulas based on natural ingredients, which are concentrated to limit the amount of packaging. The products of this brand, which are never tested on animals, also protect the environment. Leonor Greyl product bottles and boxes are made from recycled PET packaging. The most recent partnership with La Collecte du Coiffeur [an association of hairdressers focusing on the environment - Ed.] is also part of that commitment to the protection of the environment, and what draws most attention is the support they give to the association called The Sea Cleaners, whose mission is to build the catamaran named Manta which can collect more than 100 tonnes of plastic in one departure. For many years, Leonor Greyl has also sponsored the organic apiary thanks to the Un toit pour les abeilles association, providing shelter for bees to protect this endangered species and preserve biodiversity.

To what extent will the crisis and the decline in spending caused by the pandemic lead to changes in business plans related to sustainability is difficult to predict, but the big brands continue to emphasize their commitment to the idea of sustainable business. It is becoming increasingly clear that 2020 could accelerate the predictions of the decade ahead, for which Mintel, a global market research agency, earlier this year said that this form of initiative and business running would be standard and that the beauty industry would operate successfully only with the constant listening to the voice of the market. It is because a mutual and multifaceted partnership today plays an important, even crucial role in the world of beauty and business success.

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

KAKO BRENDING UTJEČE NA FINANCIJSKI USPJEH? VRIJEDNOST POSTIŽU BRENDOVI KOJE POTROŠAČI DOŽIVLJAVAJU DRUKČIJIMA, POSEBICE AKO JE NJIHOVO POSLOVANJE DRUŠTVENO ODGOVORNO

WHAT EFFECT DOES BRANDING HAVE ON FINANCIAL SUCCESS?

NA PI S A L A _ W O R D S: DA N IJ E L A PET R OV

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A

B R A N D S T H AT CUSTOMERS PERCEIVE A S D I F F E R E N T, ACHIEVE MORE VALUE, E S P E C I A L LY I F T H E I R B U S I N E S S I S S O C I A L LY RESPONSIBLE

FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : PROFIMEDIA , PR

pple, Google, Amazon i Microsoft bili su najuspješniji svjetski brendovi u 2019. godini, prema marketinškoj tvrtki Interbrand koja već 20 godina kreira popis stotinu najuspješnijih svjetskih brendova.

Vrijednost svakog brenda temelji se na predviđanju njegove zarade i izračunavanju sadašnje neto vrijednosti, a upravo tu metodologiju primjenjuje Interbrand, čiji je The Best Global Brands Report ponovno potvrdio da tehnološki sektor raste u prosjeku 9% godišnje te da se najbrže razvijaju luksuzni brendovi za kojima potražnja ne jenjava ni u financijski najtežim okolnostima. Kumulativna vrijednost stotinu najboljih brendova tijekom 2000. godine, kada je prvi put objavljen Interbrandov popis, iznosila je 988 milijuna američkih dolara. Danas ona iznosi 2,1 bilijun dolara, što predstavlja prosječnu godišnju stopu rasta od 4,4% i ukupnu vrijednost veću od udvostručene. Te su brojke dokaz da je u fluidnom tržišnom okruženju ulaganje u brend ključno za dugoročni (financijski) uspjeh.

A

pple, Google, Amazon and Microsoft are the world's most successful brands in 2019, according to Interbrand, which has been creating the list of the world's top 100 brands for 20 years. The value of each brand is based on forecasting its earnings and calculating its current net worth, and this is the methodology used by Interbrand, whose The Best Global Brands Report reaffirms that the technology sector is growing at an average of 9% per year and that the fastest growing brands are luxury brands, which are in demand even in the most financially difficult circumstances. When Interbrand list was first released during the year 2000, the cumulative value of the top 100 brands was $ 988 million. Today, that value is $ 2.1 billion, representing an average annual growth rate of 4.4% and an overall value is more than doubled. These figures are evidence that in a fluid market environment, investing in a brand is key to long-term (financial) success.

N A J U S PJ E Š N I J I GLOBALNI BRENDOVI 2019.

Analitičari smatraju da je ulaganje u brend kojemu se vjeruje manje rizično od kupnje no name proizvoda.

Budući da je u svijetu dostupno mnogo sličnih proizvoda, veću vrijednost postižu brendovi koje potrošači doživljavaju drukčijima, posebice ako je njihovo poslovanje društveno odgovorno. Naime, danas je osobito popularno imati jasnu svrhu koja nadilazi puku zaradu, tj. viziju kojom se teži da svijet postane bolje mjesto za život. Unatoč tome, bez većeg ulaganja u izgradnju brenda, čak i u krizi, kakva je bila posljednja uzrokovana pandemijom koronavirusa, nema financijskog uspjeha.

S tim se slaže i dr. sc. Božo Skoko, profesor odnosa s javnošću na Fakultetu političkih znanosti Sveučilišta u Zagrebu i vodeći hrvatski komunikacijski stručnjak, koji smatra da je kriza odličan test za sve globalne brendove. Mnogi su je uistinu doživjeli kao priliku pa su pokazali veću društvenu odgovornost, transparentnost te suosjećanje, i to ne samo sa svojim potrošačima nego i sa širom javnosti. Dio je njih prilagodbu novim okolnostima kreativno komunicirao i privremenom promjenom vizualnog identiteta. Iako je mnogima bilo teško u ovoj krizi, najbolji su je, smatra Skoko, uistinu doživjeli kao priliku pa su započeli nove načine komunikacije s kupcima, pokrenuli nove distribucijske kanale i sl.

“Pogledamo li sve brendove koji su u posljednjih deset godina zabilježili veliki iskorak, uočit ćemo da se on temelji na tehnološkom napretku, odnosno da naš život čini jednostavnijim i kvalitetnijim. I to je tajna njihova uspjeha - kvaliteta i funkcionalnost, posebnost i jedinstvenost te emocija i priča koje nude. No ako brend samo jednu godinu ne ponudi iskorak svojim proizvodima i načinom komunikacije s tržištem, vrlo brzo pada na burzi i netko drugi zauzima njegovo mjesto”, kaže dr. sc. Božo Skoko, napominjući da je put do brenda, a potom i super brenda, prilično mukotrpan i dug.

“Na zasićenom i konkurentnom tržištu teško je biti drukčiji, kontinuirano isporučivati ne samo kvalitetu nego i nuditi dodanu vrijednost te oduševljavati klijente i kupce. To uspijeva samo najboljima u branši, onima koji redovito osluškuju bilo javnosti i tržišta te im se prilagođavaju, a pritom u radu primjenjuju najnaprednije marketinške i komunikacijske strategije i alate te uza sve to uspijevaju sačuvati svoju dušu i pobuditi emocije. Dobar brend uvijek pronalazi način kako se kvalitetom i nastupom na tržištu stalno isticati u odnosu na konkurenciju te, poput svjetionika u moru ponude, pružati poklonicima sigurnost i jedinstveno iskustvo”, smatra ovaj stručnjak napominjući da je kvaliteta i dalje najbolji pokazatelj vrijednosti brenda.

Apple sa 234,24 mlrd. dolara vrijednosti, Google sa 167,71 mlrd. dolara, Amazon sa 125,26 mlrd. dolara i Microsoft sa 108,85 mlrd. dolara svjetski su predvodnici Interbrandova popisa stotinu najutjecajnijih brendova. Na petom se mjestu nalazi Coca-Cola (63,36 mlrd. dolara), a slijede je Samsung (61,1 mlrd. dolara), Toyota (56,25 mlrd. dolara), Mercedes-Benz (50,83 mlrd. dolara), McDonald's (45,36 mlrd. dolara) i povratnik među elitu - Disney sa 44,35 mlrd. dolara vrijednosti.

Luksuz je drugu godinu zaredom bio sektor koji se najbrže razvija, a prosječna stopa rasta vrijednosti iznosi 11% u odnosu na isto razdoblje godinu prije. Najcjenjeniji je luksuzni brend u svijetu Louis Vuitton, a Gucci je, pak, najbrže rastao - čak 23% na godinu.

“Dvadeset godina nakon objavljivanja našeg prvog izvješća mogu reći da su kupci informiraniji, bolje povezani i mnogo zahtjevniji nego prije. Imaju veliku mogućnost izbora, manje su odani brendu i žele neposrednost, obilje te intimnost. I sve to žele, naravno, istodobno. U svijetu u kojem će se očekivanja kupaca i dalje razvijati brže nego biznis trebat ćemo povlačiti hrabre, rekao bih, jedinstvene poteze kako bi brendovi bolje predvidjeli očekivanja kupaca te u konačnici postigli izvanredne poslovne rezultate”, izjavio je Charles Trevail, globalni izvršni direktor Interbranda.

Kao novi igrači na Interbrandov popis ušli su Uber (87. mjesto sa 5,7 mlrd. dolara) i LinkedIn (98. mjesto sa 4,84 mlrd. dolara). Facebook više nije među prvih deset te zauzima 14. mjesto. Samo je 31 brend iz prvog izvješća iz 2000. godine i danas na popisu, a Coca-Cola i Microsoft nikada nisu ispali iz top deset.

TOP GLOBAL BRANDS IN 2019.

The world leaders in Interbrand's list of the 100 most influential brands are Apple, with $ 234.24 million in value, Google with $ 167.71m, Amazon with $ 125.26m dollars and Microsoft with $ 108.85m dollars. Coca-Cola ($ 63.36m) is at number five, followed by Samsung ($ 61.1m), Toyota ($ 56.25m), Mercedes-Benz ($ 50.83m), McDonald's ($ 45.36m) and a returnee to the elite - Disney with $ 44.35m value.

For the second consecutive year, luxury was the fastest growing sector, with an average growth rate of 11% compared to the same period the year before. The world's most respected luxury brand is Louis Vuitton, and Gucci was the fastest growing brand - 23% a year.

“Twenty years after the publication of our first report, I can say that customers are more informed, better connected and much more demanding than before. They have a wide variety of choices, are less loyal to the brand and want directness, abundance and intimacy. And they want it all, of course, at the same time. In a world where customer expectations will continue to evolve faster than business, we will have to make bold and, I’d say, rather unique moves to help brands anticipate customer expectations better and ultimately achieve outstanding business results,” said Charles Trevail, global CEO of Interbrand.

As new players, Uber (87th place, with $ 5.7m) and LinkedIn (98th place, with $ 4.84m) are on the Interbrand list this year. Facebook is no longer among the top ten, ranking 14th. Only 31 brands from the first report released in 2000 are still on the list today, and Coca-Cola and Microsoft have never got out of the top ten on that list.

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Naime, ako proizvod nije kvalitetan, ne mogu ga spasiti ni dobra promocija ni najljepše pakiranje. Međutim, ponuda kvalitetnih proizvoda sve je veća, a time i konkurencija pa uz kvalitetu do izražaja dolaze i neke druge odlike, ponajprije način komunikacije s potrošačima, emocije koje oni povezuju s proizvodom i slično.

“Svaki brend ima dvije komponente - racionalnu i emocionalnu.

Racionalnu predstavljaju tehničke karakteristike poput uporabne vrijednosti, dostupnosti, cijene, funkcionalnosti, dobrog pakiranja i sličnog. Emocionalna komponenta podrazumijeva neopipljive vrijednosti, poput emocija koje povezujemo uz proizvod, a postižu se kvalitetnom promocijom, brendiranjem, odnosom s javnošću, odnosno osobnošću brenda. Kvalitetni brendovi imaju jaka oba segmenta”, kaže dr. sc. Skoko.

U posljednje vrijeme često se govori o održivosti. Nove su generacije povezanije s brendovima koji u poslovanju promišljaju o zaštiti okoliša ili su društveno odgovorni. To je svojevrstan trend koji u konačnici utječe na lojalnost kupaca, a slijedom toga i na financijski uspjeh.

“Kupce ne možete prevariti na duge staze. Proizvođači i ponuđači usluga moraju poštovati vrijednosti, očekivanja i način života kupaca. Nove generacije prihvaćaju nove trendove mnogo brže od nas starijih, a jedan je od takvih trendova i odnos prema prirodnim materijalima, zaštiti okoliša, odgovornosti prema radnicima koji proizvode pojedini proizvod ili onima od kojih nabavljamo sirovine i slično. Poznajem mnogo mladih koji odbijaju dostavu brze hrane ako nije u ekološkom pakiranju ili ne žele kupiti djeci igračku ako je pakirana u hrpu nepotrebne plastike. Mnogi su osjetljivi i na umjetne šećere te dodatke prehrani. Tko shvati da se tržište vrlo brzo mijenja i prilagodi svoju ponudu, bit će na dobitku”, smatra

Analysts find investing in a trusted brand less risky than buying a no-name product. Since there are many similar products available worldwide, brands that customers perceive as different, achieve higher value, especially if their business is socially responsible.

Having a clear purpose that goes beyond mere earnings, that is, a vision that seeks to make the world a better place to live in, is what is popular today. Nevertheless, there is no financial success without major investment in brand building, even in a crisis such as the last one, caused by the corona virus pandemic, and Božo Skoko, Ph.D., Professor of Public Relations at the Faculty of Political Science at the University of Zagreb and a leading Croatian communication expert, agrees with this and believes that a crisis is an excellent test for all global brands. Many brands really saw the crisis as an opportunity, so they showed greater social responsibility, transparency and compassion, not only with their consumers, but also with the general public. Some of them creatively communicated the adaptation to the new circumstances through a temporary change of visual identity. Although it was difficult for many brands during this crisis, the best ones, Skoko believes, really saw it as an opportunity, so they started new ways of communicating with customers, new distribution channels and the like.

“If we look at all the brands that have made a major leap forward in the last ten years, we see that the leap is based on technological advances. In addition, we can easily conclude that this technological advancement makes our lives easier. And that is the secret of their success. But if the brand does not revolutionise its products in only one year, it loses its value on the stock market very quickly and some other brand takes its place,” says Božo Skoko, Ph.D., emphasising that the path to becoming a brand and then a super brand is quite tedious and long.

LUKSUZ JE, PREMA PROŠLOGODIŠNJIM BROJKAMA , DRUGU GODINU ZAREDOM BIO S E K TO R KO J I S E N A J B R Ž E R A Z V I J A , A P R O S J E Č N A STO PA R A STA V R I J E D N O ST I I Z N O S I L A JE 11% U ODNOSU NA ISTO RAZDOBLJE GODINU PRIJE. NAJCJENJENIJI LUKSUZNI BREND U S V I J E T U J E L O U I S V U I T TO N , A G U C C I J E , PA K , N A J B R Ž E R A STA O - 2 3 % N A G O D I N U

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ovaj komunikacijski stručnjak i autor knjige “Država kao brend”, u kojoj zagovara tezu da imidž države utječe na privlačenje investicija, plasman proizvoda na inozemna tržišta, privlačenje turista i potencijalnih stanovnika te općenito rast društvenog, ekonomskog i političkog statusa na međunarodnoj pozornici.

Iako živimo u globaliziranom svijetu, suvremeni brendovi, napominje Skoko, itekako ovise o imidžu države iz koje dolaze, pa tako i dalje rado govorimo o francuskoj modnoj industriji, japanskoj tehnici, njemačkim automobilima, talijanskoj tjestenini…

“Ljudi su skloni, u nedostatku vremena za podrobnije analize proizvoda, donositi zaključke na temelju dojma i iskustva, odnosno

“In a saturated and competitive market, it is difficult to be different, to continuously deliver quality and also offer added value and delight clients and customers. Only the best ones in the industry can succeed in that, only those who regularly listen to and adapt to the public and the market, while applying the most advanced marketing and communication strategies and tools and still maintain their soul and manage to evoke emotions in customers. A good brand always finds a way to constantly stand out from the competition with quality and market presence and, like a beacon in the sea of offers, make customers feel secure and offer them a unique experience,” this expert said, noting that quality is still the best indicator of brand value. Namely, if the product is not of good quality, neither

Najskuplji je loš ili nikakav brending Brendovi koji nude kvalitetan proizvod, sadržaj ili uslugu te oni koji se brinu o zadovoljstvu korisnika, planetu na kojem živimo i zaposlenicima bit će najuspješniji u nadolazećem razdoblju.

Djelovanje takvih brendova bit će relativno nišno, prognoziraju Marko Šesnić i Goran Turković, dizajneri i vlasnici Studija Šesnić & Turković, potpisnici brojnih uspješnih kreativnih projekata, među kojima je i novi vizualni identitet Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu.

Veliki igrači u outdoor industriji najbolje svjedoče o tim trendovima. Tako, kažu Šesnić i Turković, jedan brend odjeće i opreme za planinarenje prodaje rabljene proizvode po sniženim cijenama radi stvaranja što manje otpada. Osim toga, postoji i brend koji već dvije godine zatvara sve svoje trgovine na globalno popularan dan velikih sniženja, Black Friday, kako bi odveo zaposlenike na planinarenje, čime konzumerizam stavlja u drugi plan.

Pronaći kvalitetno kreativno rješenje koje će mu dati komunikacijsku snagu, dugovječnost te ga razlikovati od konkurencije moto je kojim se Šesnić i Turković u poslu vode već 13 godina, koliko su prisutni u ovoj kreativnoj industriji. No u kojoj mjeri njihova kreativnost doista pomaže brendovima u prepoznatljivosti na tržištu te u konačnici pozitivno utječe na (financijski) uspjeh?

“Naše je tržište, nažalost, malo i specifično.

Rijetko si koji klijent može priuštiti istraživanje koje će pokazati utjecaj dizajna na uspjeh bren-

da. Feedback najčešće dobivamo usmeno ili putem društvenih mreža. Nakon implementacije identiteta za sve nacionalne parkove i parkove prirode Hrvatske, što je bio najkompleksniji projekt na kojem smo radili, ostvaren je jedan od ciljeva: prepoznavanje kompletnog sustava zaštićenih područja te je broj posjetitelja u manje razvikanim parkovima višestruko povećan”, kažu Šesnić i Turković napominjući kako je svako ulaganje u brend pametno ulaganje jer tako radite na “licu” svoje tvrtke ili proizvoda.

“Odnose s brendom shvaćamo kao međuljudske odnose. Brend mora u svim svojim aspektima poslovanja i komuniciranja s publikom sustavno odražavati svoj karakter. Nekima je i dalje teško shvatljivo zašto bi trebali investirati u brendiranje i to smatraju bacanjem novca. No najskuplje je odraditi loš ili nikakav posao. Kada ljudi uvide da im je brending loš ili da se pojavila konkurencija s mnogo jačim brendom, tada je kasno jer je intervencija skuplja i kompleksnija”, zaključuju ovi kreativci.

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| Istaknuti radovi Studija Šesnić & Turković | Renowened work by Šesnić & Turković Studio

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

BAD BRANDING OR NO BRANDING COMES AT A HIGH COST imidža proizvođača i zemlje iz koje proizvod dolazi, što je posebno izraženo posljednjih desetljeća. Izbor na tržištu je umnogostručen, brendovi su postali globalni, kvaliteta slična pa smo zasuti gomilom informacija, a imamo sve manje vremena za racionalne prosudbe.

Države su postale svjesne tih trendova u ponašanju potrošača pa sve više novca ulažu u upravljanje vlastitim identitetom i imidžom kako bi dale dodatnu vrijednost svojim proizvodima na inozemnim tržištima”, kaže Skoko.

Pojednostavljeno rečeno, sve se svodi na tvrdnju da su potrošači naklonjeniji proizvodima iz država s prepoznatljivim i poželjnim imidžom te su za njih nerijetko spremni platiti i višu cijenu, bez obzira na stvarnu kvalitetu. Većina ljudi proizvode svjesno i nesvjesno povezuje s odlikama zemlje iz koje oni dolaze pa je teško odvojiti se od tog naslijeđa. Ta činjenica može biti odlična za brendove koji dolaze iz zemalja koje su jasno definirale svoje željeno mjesto na svjetskom političkom i gospodarskom tržištu - što žele prodavati, po čemu žele biti poznate, ali i velik uteg onima koji ne razumiju važnost ulaganja u brending.

Elon Musk, vlasnik tvrtke Tesla Motors, jedna je od onih osoba koje bolje od većine razumiju emocionalni aspekt brendiranja. On, kako kažu brojni analitičari, nema kupce nego sljedbenike koji su odani njegovoj kreativnosti, poslovnoj oštroumnosti i ideologiji.

Potrošačima je također privlačna činjenica da Musk preuzima osobnu odgovornost za svoj brend. Naime, 2013. godine, kada se zapalilo nekoliko automobila Tesla, što je izazvalo negativan publicitet, Musk se osobno angažirao u pisanju blogova u kojima je branio identitet svojeg proizvoda pokazujući kako uspjeh poslovanja svakog brenda ovisi o autentičnosti, transparentnosti i iskrenim postupcima. Dakle, brend koji donosi golemu zaradu nije nešto što se prepušta slučajnosti ili se očekuje da nastane bez promišljanja o jasnoj viziji, misiji i ciljevima. Što više vremena, truda i novca uložite, to je veća vjerojatnost da ćete stvoriti održivi brend koji povećava vašu konačnu vrijednost.

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FOR THE SECOND CONSECUTIVE Y E A R , L U X U RY W A S T H E FA ST E ST GROWING SECTOR, WITH AN AVERAGE G R O W T H R AT E O F 1 1 % C O M PA R E D TO THE SAME PERIOD THE YEAR BEFORE. THE WORLD'S MOST RESPECTED LUXURY BRAND IS LOUIS VUITTON, A N D G U C C I W A S T H E FA ST E ST GROWING BRAND - 23% A YEAR.

The brands that offer a quality product, content or service, and the brands that care about customer satisfaction, the planet we live on and their employees will be the most successful ones in the upcoming period. Such brands will mostly target their niche market, as predicted by Marko Šesnić and Goran Turković, the designers and owners of Šesnić & Turković Studio and the authors of many successful creative projects, including the new visual identity of the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb.

Big players in the outdoor industry testify to these trends best.

According to Šesnić & Turković, one brand of clothing and mountaineering equipment sells used products at reduced prices in order to create less waste. In addition, there is a brand that has been closing all of its stores for two years now on the globally popular big discount day - Black Friday - to take their employees on a hike, putting consumerism aside.

Finding a creative solution that will give the brand communicative strength, longevity and set it apart from the competition is the guiding principle Šesnić & Turković are led by in this business they have been running for 13 years in this creative industry. But to what extent does their creativity really help brands gain market recognition and ultimately have a positive influence on the (financial) success?

“Unfortunately, our market is small and specific. Not many clients can afford research that would show the impact of design on brand success. We usually receive feedback by word of mouth or through social networks. Following the branding of all national and nature parks in Croatia, which was the most complex project we have ever worked on, one of the goals was achieved: recognition of the whole system of protected areas, which led to a significant increase in the number of visitors to less well-known parks,” Šesnić and Turković say adding that every brand investment is a smart investment because that way you work on the image of your business or product.

“We perceive brand relationships the same way we perceive interpersonal relationships. The brand must reflect its character in all of its business aspects and in communication with its audience consistently. Some still find it difficult to understand why they should invest in branding and consider it a waste of money. But bad branding or no branding is what will cost you the most. When people realise their branding is bad or that competition with a much stronger brand has emerged, it is too late then because it is much more expensive and far more complex to intervene,” this creative duo concludes.

best promotion nor the most beautiful packaging can save it.

However, the offer of quality products is increasing, as well as the competition, so, in addition to quality, there are some other features customers look for, primarily the way a brand communicates with its consumers, the emotions they associate with the product and the like.

"Each brand has two components – the rational one and the emotional one. Technical characteristics such as use value, availability, price, functionality, good packaging and the like represent the rational. The emotional component implies intangible values, such as the emotions we associate with the product, and these are achieved through promotion, branding, public relations and brand personality.

High-quality brands are strong in both segments," says Skoko, Ph.D. Sustainability has been talked about a lot lately. New generations are more connected to brands that take environmental protection or social responsibility into consideration in their business. This is a trend that ultimately affects customer loyalty and, consequently, financial success.

“In the lack of time to analyze the product in more detail, people are inclined to draw conclusions based on the impression and experience, that is, the image of the manufacturer and the country the product comes from, which can be clearly seen in recent decades. The market offer has multiplied, the brands have become global, the quality is similar, so we are crammed with a lot of information, and we have less and less time for rational judgments. Countries have become aware of these trends in consumer behaviour, so they are investing more money into managing their own identity and image in order to add value to their products in foreign markets,” says Skoko.

To put it simply, it all comes down to the claim that consumers are more inclined towards products from countries with a recognizable and desirable image, and are often willing to pay a higher price for them, regardless of the actual quality. Most people associate products, both consciously and unconsciously, with the characteristics of the country they come from, so it is difficult to separate from that image. This fact can be great for brands that come from countries that have clearly defined their desired place in the global political and economic market – they know what they want to sell, what they want to be known for, but it can also be a big weight for those who do not understand the importance of investing in branding.

“You cannot fool customers in the long run. Manufacturers and service providers must respect the values, expectations and lifestyle of customers.+ New | "Svaki brend ima dvije komponente - racionalnu generations are embracing new trends i emocionalnu. Kvalitetni brendovi imaju jaka oba much faster than the older generations, segmenta", kaže stručnjak za brendiranje dr. sc. and one such trend is the attitude towarBožo Skoko | 'Each brand has two components ds natural materials, the environmental – the rational one and the emotional one. HighElon Musk, the owner of Tesla protection and the like. I know many quality brands are strong in both segments,' says Motors, is one of those individuals young people who refuse a fast food Božo Skoko, an expert in branding who understand the emotional aspect delivery if it is not in organic packaging of branding better than most people. or do not want to buy a toy for their children if it is packed in a As many analysts say, he does not have customers, but followers pile of unnecessary plastic. Many people are also sensitive to artifiwho are loyal to his creativity, business sense and ideology. cial sweeteners and dietary supplements. Whoever realizes that the Customers are also drawn to the fact that Musk takes personal market is changing rapidly and adapts its offer will profit,” says responsibility for his brand. For instance, when several Tesla cars Skoko, the communication expert and the author of “The State as caught fire in 2103, causing negative publicity, Musk personally a Brand”, in which he argues that the image of the state has a strong engaged in blogging to defend the identity of his product, demoninfluence on attracting investment and the general growth of socistrating that the success of each brand's business depends on authenal, economic and political status. ticity, transparency and honest actions. So, a brand that makes Although we live in a globalised world, contemporary brands, as huge profits is not something that is left to chance or is expected to Skoko notes, very much depend on the image of the country they emerge without thinking about a clear vision, mission and goals. come from, so we are still happy to talk about the French fashion The more time, effort and money you invest, the more likely you industry, Japanese technology, German cars, Italian pasta etc. are to create a sustainable brand that increases your ultimate value.

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“ZA TROFEJNE NEKRETNINE NA VRHUNSKIM LOKACIJAMA

INTERES UVIJEK POSTOJI”

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LUKSUZNE NEKRETNINE U H R V ATS KO J I R E G I J I IZNIMNO SU ZANIMLJIVE STRANIM KUPCIMA I NJIHOVA JE PRODAJA VEĆ NEKOLIKO GODINA U SNAŽNOM PORASTU. ŠTO OČEKUJE NAKON VELIKIH PROMJENA PROUZROČENIH GLOBALNOM KORONAKRIZOM TE KOJE BI DRŽAVNE MJERE P OTA K N U L E P O Z I T I V N E POMAKE U BUDUĆNOSTI, NAJAVLJUJE MARKO PA Ž A N I N, D I R E K TO R I PA R T N E R A G E N C I J E C R O AT I A S OT H E BY ' S I N T E R N A T I O N A L R E A LT Y

RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: DA N I J EL A PET ROV FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : DRAŽEN KOKORI Ć, CROATIA SOTHEBY ’S INTERNATION A L REA LT Y

INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

P

osljednjih godina raste potražnja za luksuznim nekretninama u Hrvatskoj, ali kupci više ne priželjkuju samo lijepu građevinu nego im postaju sve važniji doživljaj te nekretnine i iskustvo koje im ona pruža. Iako kaskamo za ostalim mediteranskim zemljama, potražnja za luksuznim nekretninama na Jadranu raste, a takav će se trend nastaviti unatoč pandemiji koronavirusa, uvjeren je Marko Pažanin, direktor i partner agencije Croatia Sotheby’s International Realty. Iako je COVID-19 prouzročio trenutačni poremećaj na globalnom tržištu, trofejne nekretnine, neovisno o krizi, uvijek imaju svoje kupce. Tako su, kaže Marko Pažanin, kolege iz Sotheby’s International Realtyja iz Miamija nedavno, na vrhuncu pandemije, ostvarili prodaju velebnog penthousea u samom srcu grada, u One Thousand Museumu. Kupci su toga luksuznog penthousea David i Victoria Beckham.

Ovaj Splićanin, koji zastupa više od 50 VIP klijenata iz cijeloga svijeta i čijim je posredovanjem prodana najskuplja nekretnina u Hrvatskoj - Vila Castello na Kvarneru za 8.115.000 eura, smatra da je budućnost tržišta luksuznih nekretnina u Hrvatskoj u gradnji luksuznih resorta pod upravom velikih hotelskih brendova.

Koliku vam je štetu napravio mali, ali razorni virus? Jeste li uspjeli dogovoriti neke poslove proteklih mjeseci i kako se uopće odvijalo poslovanje?

Za trofejne nekretnine na vrhunskim lokacijama interes uvijek postoji, a tako je bilo i tijekom proteklih mjeseci.

Kao i svi drugi, nastojali smo se prilagoditi vremenu u

THERE IS ALWAYS INTEREST IN TROPHY PROPERTIES IN TOP LOCATIONS L U X U RY R E A L E STAT E I N C R O AT I A A N D T H E R E G I O N I S E X T R E M E LY INTERESTING TO FOREIGN BUYERS AND THEIR SALES HAVE BEEN GROWING FOR SEVERAL YEARS N O W. M A R K O P A Ž A N I N , A P A R T N E R A N D T H E D I R E C TO R O F C R O AT I A S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y, T E L L S U S W H A T H I S E X P E C TAT I O N S A F T E R T H E B I G CHANGES CAUSED BY THE GLOBAL CORONA VIRUS CRISIS ARE AND W H AT G O V E R N M E N T M E A S U R E S WOULD LEAD TO POSITIVE CHANGES IN THE FUTURE

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kojem se nalazimo. Naše je poslovanje u potpunosti bilo online te smo bili dostupni kao i uvijek.

Budući da su naši klijenti većinom u inozemstvu, naviknuti smo tako funkcionirati, jedina je razlika bila to što klijenti nisu mogli doći u Hrvatsku.

Imali smo nekoliko virtualnih konekcija tako što su se vlasnik u objektu i kupac spajali putem online kanala kako bi napravili preliminarno razgledavanje.

Nedavno smo se vratili u naš ured, mjere su popustile, a najvažnije nam je da su granice otvorene te da klijenti mogu dolaziti u Hrvatsku i osobno pogledati nekretnine.

Očekujete li potporu države i, ako da, u kojem smislu?

Nadam se da će država donijeti konkretne mjere koje bi i privatnom i javnom sektoru bile vjetar u leđa i postavile nas u malo povoljniji položaj u odnosu na naše konkurentske zemlje. Tema koju često spominjem jest uvođenje programa Residency

by Investment u Hrvatskoj, koji bi olakšao privlačenje izravnih stranih investicija i povećao ukupnu ekonomsku aktivnost zemlje. Taj je program dobro poznat u poslovnom svijetu, ali je i praksa u nekim zemljama EU, poput Grčke, Crne Gore ili Portugala, koje su nam i konkurentske kad govorimo o turizmu. Iz njihova primjera možemo vidjeti da su privatni i javni sektor ostvarili odličan uspjeh i izravne investicije koje su im omogućile direktne prihode u državni proračun, ali i potaknule razvoj privatnog sektora sa svježim kapitalom te novim idejama. Ako u ovoj novoj globalnoj situaciji želimo ostati konkurentni, moramo ponuditi nešto što će nas zadržati u povoljnoj poziciji.

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Posljednjih godina bilježi se porast potražnje za luksuznim nekretninama u Hrvatskoj. Što pokazuju podaci o prodaji za 2019. i kakva su predviđanja za 2020. godinu?

Prošlu je godinu obilježio porast potražnje od 10%, što nimalo ne iznenađuje jer Hrvatska zaista pobuđuje velik interes u svijetu. Svi znaju za Hrvatsku i njezine ljepote, a kupci je tek počinju otkrivati kao privlačno tržište luksuznih nekretnina.

Nažalost, cijeli je svijet zadesila ova nezahvalna pandemija i nitko iz nje neće izići bez posljedica.

Moja je procjena da u 2020. godini nećemo imati daljnji rast potražnje. Važno je naglasiti kako u luksuzni sektor ne spadaju samo trofejne nekret-

I

n recent years, the demand for luxury real estate in Croatia has been on the rise, but buyers are no longer just looking for a beautiful building. It is becoming more and more important for them to experience the real estate and enjoy the amenities it provides. Although we are lagging behind other Mediterranean countries, the demand for luxury real estate on the Adriatic coast is constantly increasing and the trend is expected to continue despite the coronavirus pandemic, says Marko Pažanin, a partner and the executive director of Croatia Sotheby’s International Realty. Although Covid-19 has caused the current disruption in the global market, trophy real estate, regardless of the crisis, always has its buyers. So, recently, at the height of the pandemic, Pažanin’s colleagues from Sotheby’s International Realty from Miami completed the sale of a magnificent penthouse, located in the heart of the city, in the One Thousand Museum. The buyers of this luxury penthouse are David and Victoria Beckham. This man from Split, who represents more than 50 VIP clients from around the world and who mediated the sale of the most expensive luxury real estate in Croatia - Villa Castello in Kvarner worth € 8.115.000 - believes that the future of the luxury real estate market is in the construction of luxury resorts managed by big hotel brands.

How much damage did a small, but destructive, virus cause to your business? Have you managed to arrange some business deals in the past months and how did you run the business in general?

There is always interest in trophy properties in top locations, and this has been the case in recent months. Just like everyone else, we tried to adapt to the times we were in. Our business was entirely online and we were available as always. Since our clients are mostly overseas, we are used to working online; the only difference was that clients could not come to Croatia. We had several virtual tours. The owner of the facility and the customer connected through online channels in order to make a preliminary tour of the property.

We recently returned to our office, the restrictions are easing and the most important thing for us is that the borders have opened and that clients can come to Croatia and see the real estate in person.

Do you expect government support and, if so, what kind?

I hope that the government will take some concrete measures that would be a wind at the back for both the private and public sectors and which would put us in a slightly more favourable position compared to our competing countries. The topic I mention very often is the introduction of the “Residency by Investment” program in Croatia, which would facilitate attracting foreign direct investments and increase the overall economic activity of the country. This program is well known in the business world, but also a common practice in some EU countries, such as Greece, Montenegro or Portugal, which are our competitors when it comes to tourism. From their example we can see that the private and public sectors have achieved great success and direct investments which have enabled direct revenues to the state budget, but also encouraged the development of the private sector with fresh capital and new ideas. If in this

new, global situation we want to remain competitive, we must offer something that will keep us in a favourable position.

In recent years, there has been an increase in demand for luxury real estate in Croatia. What do sales data for 2019 show and what are the projections for 2020?

| “Država mora odlučnije nuditi pogodnosti za investicije u turizmu”, naglašava Pažanin | ‘Tha Government should be more resolute in this segment and offer benefits for tourism investments’, emphasises Pažanin

nine, kojih je u Hrvatskoj jako malo, nego i sve one koje spadaju u visoki standard (opremljenost, lokacija uz more, dizajn...). Uz poznavanje relevantnih informacija na globalnoj razini, predviđanja kretanja tržišta i trendova, mogu zaključiti da će 2020. godinu obilježiti pad od otprilike 20%.

Tko su kupci luksuznih nekretnina u Hrvat­skoj?

Kakvi su njihovi zahtjevi?

Hrvatska je posebno zanimljiva klijentima iz Europske unije, ponajprije Česima, Slovacima, Nijemcima i Austrijancima, ali sve više i stanovnicima skandinavskih zemalja te Dalekog istoka. U početku 2020. godine zabilježili smo znatno veći interes iz arapskih zemalja te iz Indije, a svi naši klijenti i dalje traže jedinstvenu priču - mediteranski raj u kojem će uživati. Ponajprije ih zanimaju nekretnine na otocima ili u povijesnoj jezgri gradova pod zaštitom UNESCO-a, ali i vrhunski dizajn te jedinstven doživljaj koji ta nekretnina nudi.

Koliko iznosi prosječna cijena luksuznog četvornog metra u Hrvatskoj i hoće li kriza prouzročena virusom COVID-19 utjecati na cijene?

Često mi postavljaju to pitanje, ali na njega je teško dati općeniti odgovor jer mnogo elemenata definira cijenu kvadrata. Mnoge se vile i stanovi prodaju potpuno uređeni, što također ima veliku ulogu u formiranju cijene. Teško je odrediti cijenu kvadrata na razini cijele zemlje jer ona ovisi o destinaciji i lokaciji. Kada govorimo o luksuznim vilama, one se ne prodaju “po kvadratu” nego kao kompletan proizvod, što uključuje lokaciju, privatnost, luksuz,

Last year saw a 10% increase in demand, which is not surprising since Croatia attracts great interest globally. Everyone knows about Croatia and its beauties, and buyers are just beginning to discover it as an attractive luxury real estate market. Unfortunately, this pandemic has hit the whole world and no one will get out of it without consequences. My predictions are that in 2020 we will not have further growth in demand. It is important to emphasize that the luxury sector includes not only trophy real estate, of which there are very few in Croatia, but also all those that belong to a high standard (equipment, location by the sea, design...). With relevant information at the global level knowledge, predictions of market movements and trends, we could conclude that 2020 will be marked by a decline of approximately 20%.

Who are the buyers of luxury real estate in Croatia? What are their demands?

Croatia is particularly interesting to clients from the European Union, especially the Czechs, Slovaks, Germans and Austrians, but it is becoming more and more interesting to the inhabitants of Scandinavian countries and the Far East. At the beginning of 2020 there was much more interest from the Arab countries, but also from India. All our clients are still looking for a unique story - a Mediterranean paradise to enjoy. They are primarily interested in real estate on the islands or in the historical core of UNESCO-protected cities, but also in the high-end design and unique experience that this real estate can offer.

What is the average price of a luxury square meter in Croatia and will the Covid-19 crisis affect the prices?

This is the question I am often asked, but it is difficult to give a general answer to it because many elements define the price of a square meter.

Many villas and apartments are sold fully furnished, which also plays a large role in pricing. It is difficult to determine the price per square meter for the whole country since it depends on the destination and the location itself. When it comes to luxury villas, they are not sold at the price ‘per square meter’, but as the whole product, which includes location, privacy, luxury, design, furnishings... Though, when it comes to high-end apartments or penthouses, for instance, in Split they are priced at € 4,000 or more per square meter, and in Dubrovnik this price is € 4,500 upwards.

In the coming period there will be a decline in real estate prices, but the most important factor, which this decline will depend on, is the location of the property. We expect a larger drop in prices for those in average locations, but we do not expect a drop in prices for those in ultra-luxurious locations, i.e. for trophy real estate, because there are very few of them, and buyers are still ready to make a purchase even in these conditions.

Trends are changing so wealthy clients are more often looking for luxury villas within major resorts in order to have privacy as well as full service

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dizajn, opremljenost... Kada je, pak, riječ o vrhunskim stanovima ili penthouseima, oni se, primjerice, u Splitu prodaju po cijeni od 4000 eura i više po četvornome metru, a u Dubrov­niku ta cijena iznosi od 4500 eura naviše. U sljedećem će razdoblju doći do pada cijena nekretnina, no najvažniji čimbenik o kojem će ovisiti taj pad jest lokacija na kojoj se nekretnina nalazi. Očekujemo da će se na prosječnim lokacijama dogoditi veći pad, a za one na ultra luksuznim lokacijama, tj. za trofejne nekretnine ne očekujemo pad cijena jer ih je jako malo. Kupci su i u ovim uvjetima spremni na kupnju!

Trendovi se mijenjaju pa bogati klijenti sve češće traže luksuzne vile u sklopu velikih resorta kako bi imali privatnost, ali i potpunu uslugu hotelskog smještaja. Ima li Hrvatska što ponuditi u tom ­smislu?

Hrvatska, nažalost, u segmentu koji spominjete još nema dovoljno razvijenu ponudu. U portfelju imamo jako dobar primjer jednog od rijetkih takvih resorta, Opal Cove Resort, za čijim vilama vlada velik interes upravo zbog lepeze usluga koje on pruža. Gradnja takvih resorta u Hrvatskoj tek se najavljuje, a Croatia Sotheby’s International Realty već je sudjelovao u razvoju i konzaltingu povezanom s takvim projektima. Priželjkujemo da se najavljeno počne realizirati tijekom sljedećih nekoliko godina.

Smatram da je to budućnost tržišta luksuznih nekretnina, a Hrvatskoj je potrebno nekoliko “velikih igrača” iz tog sektora da bi postala ozbiljnija luksuzna destinacija na globalnoj sceni.

Možemo li biti zadovoljni interesom globalnih turističkih brendova za Hrvatsku?

Mislim da ne možemo biti zadovoljni i upravo nam to nedostaje kao destinaciji. Zato budućnost vidim u resortima pod menadžmentom velikog hotelijerskog brenda, a u njima bi bili zastupljeni drugi poznati svjetski brendovi. Kada se to počne ostvarivati, porast će i vrijednost cjelokupne destinacije.

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Čini se da i dalje kaskamo za ostalim mediteranskim zemljama kada je riječ o iskustvenom doživljaju i popratnom paketu sadržaja koji se povezuju s pojmom luksuza. Što nam kupci luksuznih nekretnina najviše zamjeraju?

Klijenti vide manjak nekretnina kakve žele kupiti, poput Vile Castello koju smo prodali 2017. godine. Često u našem uredu možete čuti vapaj upravo za takvim nekretninama. Da ih ima na tržištu, mogli bismo ih prodati nekoliko godišnje. Istaknuo bih i nedostatak vrhunskih svjetskih modnih te lifestyle brendova. Naši luksuzni gosti jednostavno nemaju gdje potrošiti novac kada dođu na odmor.

Primjerice, na otoku Capriju zastupljeni su gotovo

ZBOG PANDEMIJE OČEKUJEM PAD TRŽIŠTA LUKSUZNIH NEKRETNINA ZA 20% DUE TO THE PANDEMIC, THERE WILL BE A 20% DECLINE IN THE LUXURY REAL ESTATE MARKET

hotel accommodation. Is there anything Croatia has to offer in this regard?

Unfortunately, Croatia still lacks a sufficiently developed offer in the segment mentioned. In the portfolio we have a very good example of one of the few such resorts, the Opal Cove Resort, whose villas are of great interest precisely because of the range of services provided by the resort. The construction of such resorts in Croatia has been announced and Croatia Sotheby’s International Realty has already participated in the development and consulting related to such projects. We expect to see the beginning of construction of what has been announced within the next few years. I believe that this is the future of the luxury real estate market and Croatia needs some big players in the sector to become a more serious luxury destination on the global stage.

Should we be satisfied with the interest of global tourism brands in Croatia?

I don’t think we should be satisfied and that is exactly what we lack as a destination. That is why I see the future in resorts under the management of a large hotel brand with other well-known international brands being present within. When that happens, the value of the destination will increase.

We have beautiful locations, top-notch real estate, but it seems that we are still lagging behind other Mediterranean countries when it comes to the unique experience and the entire package of amenities that relate to the notion of luxury. What do buyers of luxury real estate resent us most?

Clients see a shortage of real estate they want to buy - a real estate like the Villa Castello we sold in 2017. You can often hear the cry for such real estate in our office. If they were on the market, we could sell several of them a year. I would also like to point out the lack of top world fashion and lifestyle brands. Our luxury guests simply have nowhere to spend money when they come on vacation.

For instance, on the island of Capri, almost all exclusive fashion brands are represented so world celebrities and business people are happy to spend part of their vacations or buy real estate there.

One could say that Dubrovnik and Hvar are one step away from becoming a luxury destination. What do you think about that?

Generally speaking, all locations lack complementary offers, that is, luxury brand stores or showrooms. We lack the shopping street where there will be numerous brands like the ones in the centers of other world metropolises. When it comes to Hvar, the problem of infrastructure is symptomatic because there is no airport or larger nauti-

svi ekskluzivni modni brendovi pa svjetski celebrityji i biznismeni ondje rado provode dio odmora ili kupuju nekretnine.

Za Dubrovnik i Hvar moglo bi se reći da su na korak do luksuzne destinacije. Što mislite o tome?

Općenito, na svim lokacijama nedostaje izvanpansionske ponude, odnosno trgovina ili showroomova luksuznih brendova. Nedostaje nam šoping ulica u kojoj će biti brojni brendovi kakve imate u centrima drugih svjetskih metropola. Kada je riječ o Hvaru, simptomatičan je problem infrastrukture jer nema aerodroma ili veće luke nautičkog turizma, što je nužno kada govorimo o luksuznoj destinaciji. Sve su to elementi koji povećavaju ekskluzivnost.

Ako gost visoke platežne moći želi potrošiti novac, treba otići u Crnu Goru ili Milano, što njima i nije problem, ali ipak baca sjenu na cijelu priču o luksuzu. Na čemu bismo trebali inzistirati, tj. na čemu treba graditi našu luksuznu ponudu?

Crna Gora je primjer na kojem možemo mnogo naučiti o gradnji resorta, privlačenju investicija i zastupljenosti brendova. Usuđujem se reći da oni imaju sve što nama treba i nedostaje. Mnogo su pametnije pristupili cijelom luksuznom sektoru pa možemo reći da se već dobro razvijaju, a nama će za postizanje tog stupnja trebati još puno godina.

Hrvatska mora privući investitore i ponuditi im uvjete kao što im nudi Crna Gora, poput smanjenja poreza ili pojednostavljenja administracije. Država mora biti odlučnija u tom segmentu i nuditi pogodnosti za investicije u turizmu.

Spomenuli ste Vilu Castello na Kvarneru koju ste 2017. prodali za nevjerojatnih 8.115.000 eura. Što sve mora imati nekretnina da bi postigla tako vrtoglavu cijenu? Imate li povratne informacije od klijenta, je li zadovoljan investicijom?

Lokacija, lokacija i samo lokacija. Vrhunska lokacija s jedinstvenom pričom i najvećim stupnjem privatnosti dobitna je kombinacija. Osobito ako u tu jednadžbu uvrstite povijesnu vilu sa 10 tisuća četvornih metara okućnice. Klijent je jako zadovoljan investicijom i to je sve što o tome smijem reći.

Naravno, vrijednost nekretnine do danas je porasla pa vjerujem da novi vlasnik ima mnogo razloga za zadovoljstvo.

Koliko vam posao otežava, kao što se često može čuti u Hrvatskoj, nepovoljna investicijska klima?

Je li se to posljednjih godina možda promijenilo?

Je li pojednostavljena administracija?

Situacija se mijenja, ali jako sporo. Ne mogu reći

HRVATSKA MORA PRIVUĆI INVESTITORE I PONUDITI IM UVJETE KAO ŠTO IM NUDI CRNA GORA, POPUT SMANJENJA POREZA ILI POJEDNOSTAVLJENJA ADMINISTRACIJE CROATIA NEEDS TO ATTRACT INVESTORS AND OFFER THEM GOOD CONDITIONS SUCH AS TAX CUTS OR SIMPLIFIED ADMINISTRATION, JUST LIKE MONTENEGRO DOES.

cal tourism port, which is necessary when we talk about a luxury destination. These are all elements that contribute to exclusivity.

If a high paying customer wants to spend money, they should go to Montenegro or Milan, which is not a problem for them, but it still casts a shadow on the whole story of luxury. What should we insist on, i.e. what should our luxury offer be built on?

Montenegro is a country on whose example we can learn a lot about resort construction, attracting investment and brand representation.

I dare say they have everything we need and lack. They have taken a much smarter approach to the entire luxury sector, so we can say that they are already developing well and it will take many years for us to reach that level. Croatia needs to attract investors and offer them good conditions such as tax cuts or simplified administration, just like Montenegro does. The Government should be more resolute in this segment and offer benefits for tourism investments.

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da se ne vide pomaci nabolje, ali i dalje postoje problemi koji se vežu uz investicije, odnosno investicijsku klimu, nemogućnost dobivanja građevinskih dozvola, problem uspostavljanja ekonomske putovnice kako bi građani izvan Europske unije mogli jednostavnije kupovati nekretnine u Hrvatskoj.

Koliko je za uspjeh u poslovanju luksuznim nekretninama važno djelovati pod svjetski poznatim brendom poput vašeg - Sotheby’s International Realty?

Iznimno je važno što poslujemo kao dio brenda Sotheby’s International Realty. Sam spomen tog brenda kupcima ulijeva veliko povjerenje u uslugu koju pružamo i kvalitetu nekretnina. Naš brend u svom portfelju diljem svijeta ima najskuplje nekretnine i ekskluzivne kupce, a svima su zajednički sigurnost, profesionalnost, kvaliteta usluge i nekretnina. Brend Sotheby’s International Realty jamči visoku razinu usluge, razinu portfelja i iznimnu privatnost klijenata, što druge agencije nemaju. Naši su klijenti poznati biznismeni, političari, sportaši i poduzetnici, a naš im brend jamči privatnost. Daju nam povjerenje, a mi to cijenimo i čuvamo kao najveću vrijednost.

Sudjelovali ste kao panelist u prvom Adria Luxury Summitu u Zagrebu, regionalnoj B2B konferenciji koja je okupila utjecajne ljude iz različitih industrija u luksuznom segmentu. Koliko važnim smatrate umrežavanje i suradnju? Jeste li zadovoljni sudjelovanjem i jeste li ostvarili korisne kontakte?

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Moji kolege i ja oduševljeni smo organizacijom te pozitivnim reakcijama koje smo doživjeli na summitu. Vjerujem da je reakcija svih prisutnih bila: “Napokon!” Takva su nam okupljanja potrebna kako bi se umrežili profesionalci iz različitih luksuznih sektora i radili na novim projektima. Bilo mi je jako drago družiti se s kolegama i upoznati nove ljude s kojima će moja agencija ubuduće surađivati.

I ovim putem čestitam cijelom timu na izvrsnoj organizaciji te vam želim uspješnu i dugu tradiciju.

NE OČEKUJEMO PAD CIJENA TROFEJNIH NEKRETNINA JER IH JE JAKO MALO WE DO NOT EXPECT A DROP IN PRICES FOR ULTRA-LUXURIOUS LOCATIONS, I.E. FOR TROPHY REAL ESTATE

You mentioned Villa Castello in Kvarner region, which you sold in 2017 for a whopping € 8,115,000. What does a property need to have in order to achieve such a dizzying price? Do you get customer feedback to know if they are satisfied with the investment?

Location, location and location only. A superb location with a unique story and the highest level of privacy is a winning combination. Especially if you include a historic villa with a 10,000 square meter garden in this equation. The client is very pleased with the investment and that is all I am at liberty to say about it. Of course, the value of that real estate has increased until this day, so I believe the new owner has lots of reasons to be pleased.

How does an unfavourable investment climate, as one can often hear is the case in Croatia, make things difficult for you? Has anything changed in recent years? Has the administration become less complicated?

The situation is changing, but very slowly. I cannot say that we have not taken a step forward, but we still have problems related to investments, i.e. the investment climate, the inability to obtain building permits, the problem of establishing an economic passport so that citizens outside the European Union could buy real estate in Croatia more easily.

How important is operating under a world-renowned brand like yours - Sotheby’s International Realty for success in the luxury real estate business?

The fact that we operate as part of Sotheby’s International Realty brand is of great importance. The very mention of that brand gives the customers great confidence in the service we provide and the quality of real estate. Our brand has the most expensive real estate and the most exclusive buyers in the world-wide portfolio, who expect safety, professionalism and the quality of service and real estate. The Sotheby’s International Realty brand guarantees a high level of service, portfolio level and exceptional client privacy, which other agencies do not have. Our clients are well-known businessmen, politicians, athletes and entrepreneurs, and our brand guarantees the privacy of each client. They put their trust in us and we cherish that and keep it as the highest value.

As a panelist, you participated in the first Adria Luxury Summit in Zagreb, a regional B2B conference that brought together influential people from different industries in the luxury segment. How important do you find networking and collaboration? Are you satisfied with the participation and have you made useful contacts?

My colleagues and I are thrilled with the organization and the positive reactions we experienced at the summit. I believe that everyone’s reaction was, “Finally!” Such summits are needed for professionals from different luxury sectors to network and work on new projects. I was very pleased to interact with my colleagues, but also to meet new people my agency will cooperate with in the future. And I would like to congratulate the whole team on this excellent organization and wish them a successful and long tradition.

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

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MODA KAKVU SMO POZNAVALI O D L A Z I U P O V I J E S T. Z A S N O V A N A NA TRADICIONALNOM PRISTUPU TRŽIŠTU, MODNIM REVIJAMA I NEKOLIKO KOLEKCIJA GODIŠNJE T R E N U TA Č N O S E Č I N I K A O I Z N E KO G DRUGOG VREMENA. VELIKI GUBICI U 2 0 2 0 . G O D I N I O V U K R E AT I V N U INDUSTRIJU USMJERAVAJU PREMA N O V O M , T R A N S PA R E N T N I J E M I O S VJ E Š T E N I J E M P R I S T U P U K U P C I M A NAPIS ALA_WORDS : MARTINA RAFA EL I FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : P ROFIM ED I A

MODNI

RESTART

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J

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oš do prije koji mjesec moda se doživljavala kroz ubrzani ritam smjene tjedana mode, vrtloga modnih sezona i trendova, sniženja usred sezona, a sve uz osjećaj stalne modne hiperprodukcije. I nije se jednom pokazala potreba za promjenom, ali kao da nitko nije ima dovoljno snage (ili interesa) te promjene i pokrenuti. U 2020. i modni se svijet suočio s pandemijom prouzročenom virusom COVID-19, a ona je rezultirala gubitkom velikog broja radnih mjesta, zatvaranjem modnih adresa diljem svijeta, bankrotima zbog neplasiranih kolekcija te minimalnom interesu tržišta za modu i netom plasirane kolekcije. Uslijedile su brojne analize, poslovni webinari, procjene investicijskih društava...

Predviđanja gubitaka su brojna i raznolika, ali nitko i ne pokušava sakriti rezultate općeg pada te industrije. Modna je industrija tijekom pandemije proizvodila zaštitne maske te brigom za zdravlje svojih zaposlenika i velikim donacijama zdravstvenom sustavu pokazala suosjećajnost prema globalnom tržištu. No što će se u budućnosti događati s modom?

McKinsey, globalna konzultantska kompanija, upućuje na to da se modna industrija trenutačno suočava s realnim brojkama pa ističu da poslovanje vezano uz industriju mode i ljepote, koje inače u Sjevernoj Americi godišnje generira oko 600 milijardi američkih dolara, trpi gubitke pa su nužne nove poslovne strategije i prilagodbe. Njihove analize ukazuju na to da će u prva dva poslovna kvartala čak 75% modnih kompanija poslovati negativno. Treba istaknuti i brojke koje pokazuju da su Europa i Sjeverna Amerika u prvih nekoliko mjeseci 2020. Bangladešu otkazale narudžbe u proizvodnji modnih predmeta u vrijednosti 1,5 milijardi američkih dolara. Problemi rastu i sa slabo aktivnom maloprodajnom mrežom, gomilanjem neplasirane robe, ali i rezultatima koji upućuju na to da su, bez obzira na popularnost online trgovine tijekom pandemije, financijski prihodi bili niži od očekivanih - što je posebno utjecalo na poslovanje luksuznih brendova. Globalne brojke pokazuju i pad u poslovanju poslije otvaranja prodajnih mjesta nakon duge stanke pa se tako bilježi pad od 20 do 30% u usporedbi s istim razdobljem u 2019. godini.

Sve je to i više nego dovoljno za poziv na promjenu – od samih poslovnih planova, preko marketinških i prodajnih poteza kako rasprodati postojeću kolekciju do toga kako planirati kolekcije za jesen 2020. i proljeće 2021. godine. Sve se glasnije čuje stav da je upravo pandemija katalizator toliko potrebnih promjena u industriji koja zapošljava milijune ljudi.

Nevjerojatan ritam smjena kolekcija čini se da odlazi u prošlost, baš kao i podilaženje kupcima u želji za stalnom potrošnjom sustavom akcija i sniženja. Moda treba novi ritam ili kako je nedavno izjavio Guccijev

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RESTART FA S H I O N A S W E K N O W I T G O E S D O W N I N H I S T O R Y. B A S E D O N A T R A D I T I O N A L A P P R O A C H T O T H E M A R K E T, F A S H I O N S H O W S A N D S E V E R A L C O L L E C T I O N S A Y E A R , I T C U R R E N T LY S E E M S A S IF IT IS FROM SOME OTHER TIME. BIG LOSSES IN 2 0 2 0 A R E D I R E C T I N G T H I S C R E AT I V E I N D U ST RY T O W A R D S A N E W, M O R E T R A N S P A R E N T A N D CUSTOMER-AWARE APPROACH

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ntil a few months ago, fashion was experienced through the accelerated rhythm of changing fashion weeks, the whirlwind of fashion seasons and trends, through discounts in the middle of the seasons, all with a sense of constant fashion hyperproduction. And it was not only once that there has been a need for change, but it seems as if no one had enough strength (or interest) to make that change. In 2020, the fashion world also faced the COVID-19 pandemic, which resulted in the loss of a large number of jobs, the closure of fashion stores around the world, bankruptcies due to unplaced collections and minimal market interest in fashion and newly placed collections. Then followed numerous analyzes, business webinars, assessments of investment companies etc.

Loss predictions are numerous and varied, but no one is trying to hide the results of the general decline of the industry. During the pandemic, the fashion industry produced protective masks and showed compassion for the global market by caring for the health of its employees and making large donations to the healthcare system.

But what will happen to fashion in the future?

At McKinsey, a global consulting firm, they say that the fashion industry is currently facing real numbers, so they point out that the business related to the fashion and beauty industry, which generates about $ 600 billion a year in North America, is suffering losses and new business strategies and adjustments are needed.

Their analyses indicate that in the first two business quarters, as many as 75% of

KONSENZUS NEĆE BITI LAK, AKO ĆE UOPĆE BITI MOGUĆ. POKAZUJE TO I STA V M E G A B R E N D O V A , P O S E B I C E O N I H L U KS U Z N I H , KO J I Ž E L E P R O M J E N E , ALI NEOVISNO O ZAJEDNIČKIM DOGOVORIMA A C O N S E N S U S W I L L N O T B E E A S Y, I F A T A L L P O S S I B L E . T H I S I S A L S O S H O W N B Y T H E A T T I T U D E O F M E G A B R A N D S , E S P E C I A L LY L U X U R Y O N E S , W H O W A N T CHANGE, BUT REGARDLESS OF MUTUAL AGREEMENTS

kreativni direktor Alessandro Michele: “Trebamo svjež zrak kako bismo ovom kompleksnom sustavu omogućili ponovno rođenje.” Nadovezao se tako na objavu tog Keringova super brenda s početka svibnja o tome kako će se fokusirati na (samo) dvije modne revije godišnje - onu za proljeće/ljeto i jesen/zimu.

Američki CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America) i britanski BFC (British Fashion Council) također javno govore o tom problemu te su uputili zajedničku poruku kojom pozivaju na usporavanje i refokusiranje modne industrije. “Ujedinjeni

fashion companies will operate at a loss. It is also important to note that Europe and North America cancelled orders from Bangladesh in the first few months of 2020 for the production of fashion items worth 1.5 billion US dollars. Problems are also growing due to a poorly developed retail network, the accumulation of unplaced goods and, despite the popularity of online shopping during the pandemic, the results indicate that financial revenues were lower than expected - which particularly affected the business of luxury brands. Global figures also indicate a decline in business when the stores opened after a long break, so there is a decline of 20 to 30% compared to the same period in 2019. All of this is more than enough to call for change - from the business plans themselves, through marketing and sales moves on how to sell off the existing collection all the way to how to

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smo u čvrstom vjerovanju da se sustav mode mora promijeniti i da se to mora dogoditi u svakom njegovom dijelu.” O gubicima i potrebi za promjenom govorio je i kineski Alibaba, čiji je CEO Daniel Zhang, navodeći velike gubitke u poslovanju u prva tri mjeseca 2020., izjavio kako je pandemija uzrok promjena navika potrošača, poslovnih operacija te da je prilagođavanje digitalnom poslovanju važnije nego ikada do sada.

Sve se češće govori ne samo o manjem broju modnih revija, nego i o politikama sniženja te terminima održavanja prestižnih tjedana mode, načinu opskrbe prodajnih mjesta i novim ugovorima s distributerima.

No konsenzus neće biti lak, ako će uopće biti moguć. Pokazuje to i stav mega brendova, posebice onih luksuznih, koji žele promjene, ali neovisno o zajedničkim dogovorima. Chanel ima stav kako su oni kao brend dovoljno jaki da samostalno donose odluke o vlastitom modnom kalendaru i tome hoće li se uopće pojavljivati na tjednima mode. Čini se da su promjene u kalendaru tjedana mode svima najzahtjevniji izazov, a svoj su stav, koji se protivi promjenama termina, iznijela i upravljačka tijela modne industrije u Milanu i Parizu, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana i Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Moguće promjene će zasigurno utjecati i na priljev novca u same gradove te srodne industrije jer nije zanemariva brojka da Pariz zahvaljujući tjednima mode godišnje generira oko 1,2 milijarde eura.

Poslijepandemijsko razdoblje otkriva i druge važne fokuse koji će modnom univerzumu dati prostora za novi početak i uspjeh.

Poslovna predviđanja ukazuju na to da nas očekuje sve snažniji digitalni marketing prožet živim odnosom sa zajednicom i temeljen na autentičnosti brenda. Tržište će sve glasnije zahtijevati transparentnu komunikaciju te prilagođavanje e-commerce sustava svim kategorijama i generacijama potrošača. Prema istraživanju Vogue Business Indexa, pojmovi poput casual, clean i sustainable više neće biti posebnost nego osnova dugoročno uspješnog poslovanja. Sve to pokazuje da će mjeseci pred nama biti više od nastojanja za spas poslovne godine, bit će to razdoblje koje vodi nužnim promjenama, modnom restartu.

plan collections for fall 2020 and spring 2021. There is a growing view that the pandemic is the catalyst for much-needed change in an industry which employs millions of people.

The incredible rhythm of the release of collections seems to be a thing of the past, just like pleasing the customers and encouraging them to spend money through a system of constant promotional activities and discounts. Fashion needs a new rhythm, or as Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele recently put it: “We need fresh air to allow this complex system to be reborn.” At the beginning of May, this Kering super brand announced that they will focus on (only) two fashion shows a year - the one for spring/summer and autumn/winter collections. The American CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America) and the British BFC (British Fashion Council) also speak publicly about this problem and have sent a shared message calling for a slowdown and refocusing of the fashion industry. “We are united in the firm belief that the fashion system must change and that the change must be made in every part of it.” Daniel Zhang, the CEO of Alibaba Group, a Chinese multinational technology company specializing in e-commerce, retail, Internet and technology, also spoke about the losses and the need for change, pointing to the big losses for the first three months of 2020, stated that the pandemic is the cause of changes in consumers, business operations and that adapting to digital business is more important than ever.

The decrease in number of fashion shows is the topic which is increasingly talked about as well as the topics of discount strategies, prestigious fashion week dates, new contracts with distributors and how to supply retail stores. But, a common consensus will not be easy, if at all possible. This is also shown by the attitude of mega brands, especially luxury ones, who want change, but regardless of mutual agreements. At Chanel, they find their brand strong enough to make their own decisions about their own fashion calendar and whether they will appear at fashion weeks at all. The changes in the fashion weeks’ calendar seem to be the most demanding challenge for everyone, and the governing bodies of the fashion industry in Milan and Paris, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, have also expressed their opposition to the changes. Possible changes will certainly affect the inflow of money into those cities and related industries since Paris generates about € 1.2 billion a year thanks to fashion weeks, which is not a negligible number.

The post-pandemic period also points to other important focal points that will give the fashion universe room for a fresh start and success. Business predictions suggest that we are expecting even stronger digital marketing imbued with a dynamic relationship with the community and based on brand authenticity. The market will increasingly demand transparent communication and adaptation of e-commerce systems to all categories and all generations of consumers. According to research by the Vogue Business Index, terms such as casual, clean and sustainable will no longer be the specialty but the basis of longterm successful business. All this shows that the months ahead will be more than an effort to save the business year, it will be a period that leads to the necessary changes, the fashion restart.

EXPERIENCE THE TRUE ESSENCE OF LUXURY

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

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Lelekas MOËT HENNESSY BRAND AMBASSADOR

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INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

“VAŽNO JE PRISJETITI SE DA JE VRIJEME UVIJEK NA STRANI LUKSUZNIH BRENDOVA”

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mbasador brenda Moët Hennessy za srednju i južnu Europu Ted Lelekas karijeru je posvetio najistaknutijim luksuznim nišama - onima vina i alkoholnih pića. Uz 14 drugih zemalja, u njegovu je fokusu i Hrvatska, što je istaknuo i kao panelist Adria Luxury Summita 2019. u Zagrebu. Iz perspektive ambasadora brendova sa stoljetnom tradicijom, za Adria Luxury Society pruža uvid u ključne zakonitosti segmenta luksuza i nudi viziju budućnosti Hrvatske na mapi premium proizvoda i usluga.

Danas se definicija luksuza manje odnosi na materijalna dobra, a više na jedinstven doživljaj. Kako vi doživljavate luksuz?

Luksuz je danas osobniji nego ikada prije. Ne postoje šire kategorije koje obuhvaćaju sve vrste skupe robe ili usluge. Danas kupci koji si mogu priuštiti igranje u luksuznom segmentu diktiraju što za njih znači luksuz, a istraživanja pokazuju da se ideja luksuza uglavnom vrti oko stjecanja jedinstvenog iskustva. To su posebni trenuci, ono što dijelite s osobama koje volite, s prijateljima, ono što nije svima dostupno. Što je kupac više platežne moći, to će iskustvo biti prilagođenije. Stoga i luksuzni brendovi moraju prilagoditi svoj pristup. Krajnji je cilj, naravno, prodaja robe i usluga, ali kako bi to postigli, kupcu moraju obećati nezaboravno iskustvo koje može pružiti samo određeni brend.

Segment luksuznih vina i pića jedna je od najstarijih kategorija u svijetu luksuznih proizvoda. Neke od višestoljetnih vinarija ujedno su najstariji svjetski brendovi. Kako danas održati imidž i razvijati uspjeh u svijetu luksuznih proizvoda?

Zaista, naše maisons predstavljaju brendove koji tu nisu slučajno nego su stoljećima stvarani i brinulo se o svojoj kategoriji. To je samo po sebi naš luksuz - znanje, iskustvo i priča koje imamo na raspolaganju, kako za stare tako i za nove kupce naših robnih marki i proizvoda. Da bi imao pravi imidž i utjecaj, luksuznom je brendu potrebna bogata povijest tijekom duljeg razdoblja. U našem slučaju, vrijeme je na našoj strani, a uzbudljiva povijest naših kuća nudi nam sve potrebne elemente kako bismo kvalitetno prenijeli poruku i vrijednost naših brendova. Zauzvrat dobivamo sretne i odane kupce.

Kako je COVID-19 utjecao na globalno tržište luksuznih vina i alkoholnih pića? Što je ova industrija, posebice grupacija LVMH, naučila iz situacije prouzročene pandemijom?

'THE THING TO REMEMBER ABOUT LUXURY BRANDS IS THAT TIME IS ALWAYS ON THEIR SIDE' RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: MA RT I N A RA FA EL I FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : DRAŽEN KOKORI Ć I PRESS

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ed Lelekas, LVMH’s Moët Hennessy brand ambassador for Central and Southern Europe, has dedicated his career to the most prominent luxury niches - those of wine and spirits. In addition to 14 other countries, Croatia is also in his focus, as he pointed out as a panellist at the 2019 Adria Luxury Summit in Zagreb. From the perspective of an ambassador of a brand with a centuries-old tradition, Lelekas provides insight into the key principles of the luxury segment and offers his vision of the future of Croatia in the segment of premium products and services.

Today, the definition of luxury is less about material goods and more about refined experiences. Based on your professional experience, what is luxury?

Today, luxury is more personal than ever. There are no more wide categories encompassing all kinds of expensive goods or services.

Today, the customers who can afford to play in the luxury segment themselves dictate what luxury is for them. Research shows that most of the time, luxury revolves around unique experiences. This means special moments to enjoy, and possibly to share with the loved ones and/or friends, which is not available to everybody. The more high-end the customer is, the more tailored the experience will be. And luxury brands have to adapt their approach accordingly. Of course the end goal is to sell goods and/or services, but to do that, they need to promise the customer a memorable experience that only a particular brand can deliver.

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Posljedice koje je prouzročio COVID-19 su velike i duboke, neke će biti i dugotrajne. U slučaju luksuznih vina i alkoholnih pića kratkoročni izazovi povezani su s padom putovanja i uslužne djelatnosti, ali nadamo se da će to biti samo trenutačno. Važno je prisjetiti se da je vrijeme uvijek na strani luksuznih brendova.

Istinski luksuzni brendovi tijekom povijesti dokazuju da su otporni na kratkoročne promjene, koliko god one teške bile. Brendovi poput našeg ne samo da su preživjeli stoljeća postojanja, nego su rasli tijekom ratova, financijskih kriza i slično. Naučili smo, ali i dalje učimo, da se planovi mogu promijeniti bez upozorenja te da je važno biti fleksibilan, okretan i spreman prilagoditi se. Važna je i činjenica da treba ostati blizak ljudima te u trenucima potrebe pomoći i podržati one manje sretne. Iznad svega naučili smo da će ljudi uvijek pronaći kreativne načine za komunikaciju, društveni kontakt te da će se u nesigurnim vremenima uvijek okrenuti brendovima kojima vjeruju.

Vinski je turizam bio, a prema poslovnim predviđanjima i bit će vrlo progresivan zahvaljujući ljudima koji su u potrazi za posebnim iskustvom na osnovi hrane i vina. Što Hrvatska i regija mogu ponuditi kategoriji luksuznih turista?

Vinski je turizam odlična kategorija tematskog turizma novog doba, onog koji ujedinjuje kategorije wellnessa i životnih užitaka, a usmjeren je na zahtjevne strane putnike visokog standarda koje svaka zemlja dočekuje dobrodošlicom. Za prekrasne zemlje koje proizvode vrhunska vina vinski je turizam budućnost. I tu na red dolazi Hrvatska. Uz fantastična, neistražena vina neotkrivenih lokalnih sorti, sjajnu domaću kuhinju, prekrasnu prirodu i neizmjerno tople te gostoljubive ljude, Hrvatska ima puni paket. Trebate vjerovati u njegovu vrijednost te uložiti radnu snagu, vrijeme i resurse kako biste uspjeli.

Kao brend ambasador za srednju i južnu Europu možete li usporediti hrvatsko tržište s onima u regiji? Kako biti više prepoznatljiv u luksuznom segmentu?

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Nakon mnogo putovanja u Zagreb i na obalu, mogu reći da sam impresioniran sofisticiranošću hrvatskog naroda kada je riječ o lijepim stvarima u životu. Vjerujem da u luksuznom segmentu u Hrvatskoj ima mnogo prostora za razvoj, a ono što bih predložio jest pronaći posebne elemente koji su jedinstveni za vašu zemlju u pogledu robe i/ili usluga te ih ponuditi u obliku iskustva koje nikada neće biti zaboravljeno.

Koji je vaš pogled na perspektivu tržišta nakon pandemije?

Vjerujem da će se pojedini “trendovi” koji su se pojavili i zadržati.

Vjerujem da će ljudi više cijeniti život, zdravlje i wellbeing te postati selektivniji i vođeni doživljajem. U našem poslovanju kredibilitet našeg brenda nastavit će osnaživati povjerenje ljudi u nas, neke će se inovacije, poput pakiranja Moët Mini, pokazati savršenim za nove norme socijalne distance. Koristimo svoju neprocjenjivu povijest i baštinu, ali stalno je osvježavamo suvremenim primjerima i praksom pa je uvijek relevantna, što naše marke i robu čini bezvremenski poželjnima.

Luxury wines and spirits segment is one of the oldest luxury product categories. Some centuries old wineries are amongst the oldest brands in the world. How to maintain reputation and achieve success in luxury product business today?

Indeed, our maisons represent brands that have not only been around, but have also been the leading brands in their categories (sometimes even creating them) for centuries. This, in itself, is our own luxury - the knowledge, the experience and the storytelling that we have at our disposal to bring the old and the new customers close to our brands and our products. In order to have the right image and impact, a luxury brand needs a rich history over a long period of time. In our case, time is on our side and our house’s exciting history gives us all the elements that we need to communicate brand value which, in turn, ensures that the customers are happy and loyal.

How did COVID-19 impact luxury wine & spirits global market?

What have the industry and LVMH learned from the situation?

The effects of COVID-19 are very big and deep and some of them will be long-lasting. In the case of the luxury wines & spirits segment, the short-term challenges are related to the closure of the travel and hospitality sectors – but hopefully this is only temporary.

The thing to remember about luxury brands in general is that time is always on their side. True luxury brands are inelastic to short term developments, no matter how serious they may be. They are certainly affected, but they always bounce back. Brands like ours, which have been leading their respective categories for centuries, have not only survived, but eventually flourished through wars, financial crises, etc. We’ve learned (and are still learning) that plans can change rapidly and without warning and it’s important to be flexi-

VINSKI JE TURIZAM ODLIČNA KATEGORIJA TEMATSKOG TURIZMA NOVOG DOBA, ONOGA KOJI UJEDINJUJE KATEGORIJE WELLNESSA I ŽIVOTNIH UŽITAKA WINE TOURISM IS A GREAT CATEGORY OF NEW-AGE THEMATIC TOURISM THAT COMBINES WELLNESS AND LIFE ENJOYMENT

TED LELEKAS O USPJEHU BRENDOVA MOËT & CHANDON I VEUVE CLICQUOT U RAZVOJU MASSTIGE STRATEGIJE (PRESTIŽA ZA MASU) Dva svjetska igrača u top kategoriji šampanjaca, Moët & Chandon i Veuve Clicquot, mogli bi se promatrati kao uspješne studije u marketingu, brendingu i komunikaciji, ali pritom ne smijemo zaboraviti da upravo te kuće proizvode vina vrhunske kvalitete i nepogrešivog stila neprekidno od 18. stoljeća. Također, moramo se prisjetiti da su ono što danas smatramo standardnom marketinškom praksom vizionari poput Jean-Rémyja Moëta i Madame Clicquot počeli prije nego što je marketing postojao kao znanost. Konačno, kako se tržišta razvijaju, promjene su nužne i različite generacije zahtijevaju različite stvari. Ove su dvije vodeće marke uspjele unijeti luksuz u širi životni stil i učiniti šampanjac vinskim izborom u svim važnim prigodama - proslave, zabave, vjenčanja, modne revije, klupska druženja, vrhunska kuhinja...

TED LELEKAS ON THE SUCCESS OF MOËT & CHANDON AND VEUVE CLICQUOT IN THE „MASSTIGE” NICHE (PRESTIGE FOR THE MASS) The two top global players in the Champagne category, Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot, could be seen as case studies in marketing, branding and communication. Let us not forget, however, that they have been consistently producing wines of top quality and unmistakable style since the 18th century. Also, we need to remember that what we today consider standard marketing practices, visionaries like Jean-Rémy Moët and Madame Clicquot pioneered before Marketing existed as a science! Finally, as markets evolve, needs change and different generations require different things, what these two leading brands have achieved was to bring luxury into a wider lifestyle and make Champagne the wine of choice across every happy occasion: celebrations, parties, weddings, fashion shows, clubbing, fine dining etc.

ble, agile and able to adjust. Also, the fact that it is important to stay close to society and, in times of need, help and support the less fortunate. Above all, although we’ve learned that people will always find creative ways to communicate, socialise and stay in touch and that, in times of uncertainty, they will turn to the brands that they know and trust.

According to business forecasts, wine tourism is and will remain a very progressive tourism niche, due to a great number of tourists seeking the food & wine experience. What can Croatia and the region offer to luxury tourists?

Wine tourism is a great category of newage thematic tourism that combines wellness and life enjoyment and appeals to the discerning, high level international traveller that every country longs to welcome.

As you can imagine, for beautiful countries that produce top quality wines, wine tourism is the future. And this is where Croatia comes in. With fantastic, unexplored wines from undiscovered local grape varieties, great local cuisine, beautiful nature and tremendously warm, hospitable people, Croatia has the “full package”. All you need to do is believe in its value and invest manpower, time and resources to succeed.

As a brand ambassador for this part of Europe, can you compare Croatian market to other markets in the region? How can we be more recognizable?

After many trips to both Zagreb and the coast, I can tell you that I am very impressed with the sophistication of the Croatian people when it comes to the finer things in life. I believe that there is a lot more to offer in the luxury segment in Croatia, both for the Croatian people and international visitors to enjoy. What I would suggest is to find the special elements unique to your country, in terms of goods and/or services, and offer them as experiences that will never be forgotten.

What is your opinion on market perspective after the pandemic?

I believe that certain “trends” that emerged during this period will stay for longer or even for good. I think people will appreciate life, health and wellbeing, they will become more selective and more experience-driven. In terms of our business, our brand equity and credibility will continue to strengthen people’s trust towards our brands, while certain innovations spearheaded by our people, like the Moët Mini, for instance, will prove extremely suitable for the new norm of “social distancing”. We leverage our priceless history and heritage but we constantly “refresh” it through contemporary examples and practices, so that it is always relevant, making our brands and our goods timelessly desirable.

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FIGITALNI CUNAMI 74

ISPROBAJ U PRODAVAONICI, KUPI ONLINE. KLASIČNO PRODAJNO MJESTO SNAŽNO SE TRANSFORMIRALO POMOĆU VIRTUALNE STVARNOSTI I TEHNOLOGIJE INTEGRIRANE U PRODAVAONICE, A O D P R O D A V A Č A S E O Č E K U J E D A B A R ATA J U S V I M A L AT I M A KOJI ĆE KUPCU PRUŽITI JEDINSTVEN DOŽIVLJAJ ŠOPINGA . DO KO R O N A K R I Z E V E L I K I B R E N D O V I I Š L I S U U S M J E R U F I G I TA L A ( P H YG I TA L ) - K U P N J E U KO J O J S E I S P R E P L I Ć U O S J E T I L N I ( P H YS I C A L ) I D I G I TA L N I ( D I G I TA L ) FA K TO R I . Z B O G T E M E S O C I J A L N O G D I STA N C I R A N J A S U T R A Š N J I C A D O N O S I N O V E I Z A Z O V E , A L I I K R E A T I V N A R J E Š E N J A K O J A S U V E Ć Z A Ž I VJ E L A U P R A K S I N A PI SA LA_WORDS : DU B RAVK A TOMEKOVIĆ ARALICA FOTO G R AFIJ E_PHOTOS : CHANEL AND U LYSSE NARDIN

| Vrijeme koje se možda više nikada neće ponoviti - iskustvo modnih revija koje su donedavno bile must, a trenutačno su stvar prošlosti | Moments that may never happen again - the experience of fashion shows that were a must until recently, but are now a thing of the past

PHYGITAL TSUNAMI

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a mi je netko početkom godine rekao kako ću, umjesto omiljenog modela kupnje ‘isprobaj u prodavaonici - kupi online’ gotovo preko noći biti prisiljena usvojiti model ‘izaberi i plati online - preuzmi ispred najbliže prodavaonice’, mislila bih da se šali. No čak i ja, ovisnica o personaliziranom tretmanu u butiku, iznenađujuće sam se brzo priviknula na novu digitalnu realnost - govori Nina, Hrvatica iz Švicarske, partnerica u odvjetničkoj tvrtki u Zürichu, žena u ranim pedesetima koja je, kako priznaje, prije pandemije koronavirusa najviše trošila na cipele i kozmetiku. Jednom mjesečno kupila bi barem dva nova para dizajnerskih cipela. Obožavala je odlaziti u prodavaonice i isprobavati nove modele, razgovarati s prodavačem koji bi je prvo počastio svježim sokom od manga ili čašom Moëta, a potom počeo iznositi kutije cipela. Za nju je to bila svojevrsna antistresna terapija, uživala je istraživati kako joj se noga u njima “ponaša”, jesu li dovoljno elastične i kako će joj pristajati uz odjevne kombinacije. Smartphoneom bi ih fotografirala i nastavila dalje, a navečer, opuštena u naslonjaču uz čašu vina, kupnju odabranih modela obavila bi online.

Slično je postupala i s kozmetikom. Na odjelu luksuzne robne kuće uz asistenciju prodavačice koja dobro poznaje njezinu kožu, ukus i raspoloživi budžet testirala bi nove preparate, analizirala s njom efekte novog lifting seruma, egzotične note u mirisnim kreacijama i nijanse ruža. Fotografirala bi svoj “ulov”, a kupnju bi obavila online i čekala da paket stigne na njezinu adresu.

No pandemija je promijenila svijet, radne i potrošačke navike, a na neko vrijeme i prioritete kupaca. Tako je odvjetnica Nina prvih mjesec dana rada od kuće kupovala samo osnovne higijenske i prehrambene potrepštine - i to online. Shvatila je, kaže, da luksuzne odjeće i obuće ima za dva života. Povremeno bi je obuzeo strah za posao i budućnost djece, čvrsto je odlučila racionalnije trošiti, a i pomisao da uđe u prodavaonicu s nepoznatim, možda i zaraženim ljudima, užasavala ju je.

No ubrzo su na njezin e-mail i Facebook Messenger počele stizati poruke omiljenih modnih i kozmetičkih brendova. Brinuli su se o njezinu zdravlju i poslu, a usput joj slali tekstualne i videoporuke te informacije o proizvodima. Život ipak nije stao. Samo se trgovina iz kla-

TRY IT ON IN THE STORE, BUY IT ONLINE. THE C L A S S I C R E TA I L STO R E H A S B E E N C O M P L E T E LY TRANSFORMED WITH THE AID OF VIRTUAL REALITY AND TECHNOLOGY I N T E G R AT E D I N TO SALESROOMS, AND SALESPERSONS ARE EXPECTED TO HANDLE ALL THE TOOLS WHICH WILL GIVE THE CUSTOMER A UNIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE. UNTIL THE CORONAVIRUS CRISIS, BIG BRANDS WENT IN THE DIRECTION O F P H YG I TA L - A PURCHASE IN WHICH SENSORY (PHYSICAL) A N D D I G I TA L ( D I G I TA L ) B U Y I N G FA C TO R S A R E I N T E R T W I N E D. D U E TO S O C I A L D I STA N C I N G , TOMORROW BRINGS NEW CHALLENGES, BUT ALSO C R E AT I V E S O L U T I O N S T H AT H A V E A L R E A DY COME TO LIFE IN PRACTICE

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sičnih prodavaonica potpuno preselila online, digitalno je postalo novo normalno, a online i offline alati za kupnju isprepliću se u novom jedinstvenom doživljaju šopinga - figitalu.

Prodavaonice u postkorona eri pretvaraju se u pick up centre s ograničenim brojem ljudi, a prodavači postaju mikro influenceri čiji je zadatak privući kupce nakon što online prime prvu informaciju o proizvodu.

I prije nedavnog lockdowna razvoj digitalnog šopinga prilično je uzdrmao klasičnu maloprodaju čiji su se punktovi ubrzano transformirali. No kako je kriza uvijek i prilika za kreativne i hrabre, tako i personalizirano iskustvo kupnje poprima potpuno nove razmjere.

Prije je cilj bio u prodavaonice privući što više kupaca, a sada je cilj disperzirati njihovo okupljanje pomoću tehnologije. Dakako, konačni je cilj nadoknaditi prihode izgubljene u vrijeme izolacije jer mnogi su brendovi ozbiljno okrznuti te će njihove uprave biti zadovoljne ako im pad prihoda u odnosu na isto razdoblje prošle godine ne prijeđe 30 posto. Među uspješnijima su grupacija LMVH koja u prvom kvartalu bilježi pad prihoda od 15 posto te Kerringov Gucci s padom od 22 posto. I dok jedni diljem svijeta ubrzano zatvaraju prodavaonice prepune neprodane robe od prošle modne sezone, drugi iz sektora luksuza koji prije pandemije nisu bili skloni kapitalizirati blagodati online prodaje, sada ubrzano grade digitalne mostove između brendova, tvornica, prodavača i potrošača.

Tako će, primjerice, Ferragamo, talijanska kuća luksuza koja je prihode najvećim dijelom povlačila konzervativno - iz prodavaonica, sljedećih mjeseci pokušati uroniti u proširenu i virtualnu stvarnost. Za brend osnovan 1927., koji gotovo polovicu svoje proizvodnje prodaje u Aziji i Japanu, bit će to velik izazov. Njihova izvršna direktorica Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi suočila se u izolaciji s brojnim problemima. U prvom kvartalu Ferragamo je ostvario samo trećinu prošlogodišnjih prihoda tog razdoblja, zatvaraju trećinu od svojih 650 prodavaonica diljem svijeta, financirali su renoviranje bolnica u Firenci, donirali su respiratore i dezinficijense za ruke… Strah od koronavirusa i njihove je kupce udaljio od butika.

Vibrantne modne revije u Parizu i Milanu na kojima su kupcima i medijima prikazivali nove kolekcije pretvaraju se u digitalne tjedne mode bez publike pa u Ferragamu spas za budućnost svog brenda vide u tehnološkim inovacijama. Namjera je zadržati lojalne kupce koji su u njihovim prodavaonicama uživali u personaliziranom tretmanu stare škole, ali i privući novu mlađu generaciju koja možda nije ni čula za njihove čuvene cipelice Audrey, a ni za glumicu Audrey Hepburn koja ih je proslavila.

U toj se operaciji osobita agilnost očekuje od Ferragamovih prodavača. Oni će online kontaktirati kupce u Europi i organizirati im privatni šoping te im, dok su u prodavaonici, omogućiti da putem smartphonea zavire i u virtualnu stvarnost - da se “prebace” u tvornicu gdje se izrađuju cipele te izaberu boju omiljenog modela ili da na njemu izmijene neki detalj. Mlade kupce pak privlače Spotify play listom “upakiranom” s fotografijama novih kampanja i modnih revija, čija težnja za brzim i neposrednim šopingom završava online kupnjom kreacija od održivih materijala te podizanjem artikala u najbližoj prodavaonici.

To je, naime, mnogo brže nego da u uvjetima otežane isporuke pošiljki čekaju dostavu na kućnu adresu.

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MANJE OD PET POSTO LUKSUZNIH SATOVA I DRAGULJA U SVIJETU PRODAJE SE ONLINE, A ANALITIČARI PREDVIĐAJU DA ĆE VEĆ 2025. TAJ UDIO PORASTI NA 20 POSTO LESS THAN FIVE PERCENT OF LUXURY WATCHES AND GEMS IN THE WORLD ARE SOLD ONLINE AND ANALYSTS PREDICT THAT AS EARLY AS 2025 IT WILL RISE TO 20 PERCENT

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f someone had told me at the beginning of the year that instead of my favourite shopping model 'try it on in the store buy it online' I would be forced to adopt the 'choose and pay online - pick up in front of the nearest store' model almost overnight, I would have said that he was joking. But even I, an addict to personalized treatment in the store, got used to the new digital reality surprisingly quickly says Nina, a Croatian woman from Switzerland and a partner at a law firm in Zürich. She is in her early fifties and, as she admits, before coronavirus pandemic she spent most of her money on shoes and cosmetics. Once a month, she would buy at least two new pairs of designer shoes. She loved going to stores and trying on new models, talking to a salesperson, who would first offer her fresh mango juice or a glass of Moët and then start bringing in shoe boxes. For her, it was a kind of anti-stress therapy. She loved to see how her foot 'behaves' in the new shoes, whether they are elastic enough and how they would fit her clothing combinations. She would take photos of them with her smartphone and move on, and in the evening, sitting in an armchair with a glass of wine and feeling relaxed, she would buy the chosen models online. She did the same with cosmetic products. She would go to the luxury section of the department store and she would test new products with the assistance of a salesperson who knows her skin type, her taste and available budget well. Then they would discuss the effects of the new lifting serum, exotic notes in fragrances and lipstick shades. She would take photos of her 'catch', make the purchase online and then wait for the package to arrive on her doorstep.

But the pandemic has changed the world, work habits, consumer habits, and, for some time, customer priorities. Thus, for the first month of work from home, Nina bought only basic hygiene and food supplies - and she did it online. She realized, as she says, that she has a whole heap of luxury clothes and shoes. Occasionally she would be overwhelmed by fear for the job and the future of her children. She was determined to spend money more rationally, and the thought of going into a store with strangers, perhaps even infected people, terrified her.

But soon she started getting messages from her favourite fashion and cosmetics brands

U uvjetima pojačane sigurnosti i beskontaktno plaćanje Apple Pay i Google Pay bilježi procvat. Mnogi se brendovi sve više okreću slanju tekstualnih poruka, telefonskim pozivima i videochatovima s novom generacijom kupaca. To novo “jedan na jedan” iskustvo šopinga kombinacija je automatike i usluge prodavača, svojevrsno rekreiranje bliskosti i neposrednosti kako bi se olakšao pristup kupcima. Burberry je razvio aplikaciju koja njihovim zaposlenicima u prodavaonici dopušta chat s kupcima u svijetu, a Nike i Longchamp online kupcima omogućuju da se u prodavaonici povežu s osobljem - za stilsko vodstvo pri kupnji.

No nisu svi imućni klijenti spremni kupovati na taj način. Iako najluksuzniji brendovi iz sektora satova i nakita mnogo investiraju u svoju prisutnost na društvenim mrežama, u prodaji se i dalje najviše oslanjaju na doživljaj kupca u trgovini. Arnaud Légeret, komunikacijski menadžer švicarske manufakture satova MB&F, objašnjava: “Kupnja naših satova online - bez prethodnog fizičkog dodira - iznimno je rijetka. Početna je cijena modela 50.000 dolara, većina naših satova stoji između 90 i 160 tisuća dolara pa kada kupujete takav vrhunski model, prije toga ga želite u našem butiku staviti na ruku.”

Manje od pet posto luksuznih satova i dragulja u svijetu se prodaje online, a analitičari švicarske Vontobel banke predviđaju da će već 2025. taj udio porasti na 20 posto. Poput mnogih urarskih manufaktura i Ulysse Nardin dugo je odolijevao e‑commerceu, no pandemija i izolacija ubrzali su taj proces osvajanja mlađih generacija kupaca. “Online prodaja prirodan je smjer u našoj želji za pomlađivanjem brenda. Logičan je to korak nakon implementacije novog koncepta butika u Ženevi, Shanghaiu, Dubaiju i Pekingu, a za njezin uspjeh presudna će biti dobra suradnja s tradicionalnom prodajnom mrežom”, smatra Françoise Bezzola, direktorica marketinga Ulysse Nardina, čiji je sat Diver X Nemo Point od početka lipnja dostupan ekskluzivno online kupcima. No kada se jednom približe luksuznom brendu, svi kupci naposljetku vole navratiti u klasičan butik po savjet eksperta, uživo osluhnuti otkucaje novog sata ili dodirnuti nakit, kao što u industriji ljepote kupci krema i parfema fizički moraju isprobati novi proizvod.

| Poput mnogih urarskih manufaktura i Ulysse Nardin dugo je odolijevao e-commerceu, no pandemija i izolacija ubrzali su taj proces osvajanja mlađih generacija kupaca | Like many watchmaking factories, Ulysse Nardin has long resisted e-commerce, but the pandemic and isolation have accelerated the process of winning over younger generations of customers

on her e-mail address and facebook messenger. They cared about her health and work, sending her text and video messages and product information along the way. Life did not stop, though. It is only that shopping from classic retail stores transferred completely online.

Digital has become the new normal, and online and offline shopping tools are intertwined in a new unique shopping experience - phygital. Stores in the post-corona era are turning into pick-up centres with a limited number of people, and salespeople are becoming micro influencers whose job it is to attract customers after they receive the first product information online.

Even before the recent lockdown, the development of digital shopping has quite shaken up the classic retail whose stores have been rapidly transformed. But as the crisis is always an opportunity for the creative and the bold, so does the personalized shopping experience take on a whole new dimension. Previously, the goal was to attract as many customers as possible to the stores, and now the goal is to disperse their gathering with the help of technology.

Of course, the ultimate goal is to make up for lost revenue during the isolation period since many brands are severely affected and their managements will be pleased if their revenue decline does not exceed 30 percent compared to the same period last year. Among the more successful are the LMVH group, which recorded a 15 percent drop in revenue in the first quarter, and Kerring's Gucci with a 22 percent drop. And while some brands around the world are rapidly closing stores full of unsold merchandise from last fashion season, others in the luxury sector who were reluctant to capitalize on the benefits of online sales before the pandemic are now rapidly building digital bridges between brands, factories, retailers and consumers.

For example, Ferragamo - an Italian luxury house that largely withdrew its revenues in a conservative way - from stores - will try to immerse in augmented and virtual reality in the coming months. For a brand founded in 1927, which sells almost half of its production in Asia and Japan, it will be a big challenge. Their CEO Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi faced many problems during the isolation period. In the first quarter, Ferragamo generated only a third of last year's revenue for that period. They are closing a third of their 650 stores worldwide. They financed the renovation of hospitals in Florence, donated respirators and hand sanitizers, etc. Fear of the coronavirus drove their customers away from the retail stores. Vibrant fashion shows in Paris and Milan, where they showed new collections to customers and the media, are turning into digital fashion weeks without the audience, so Ferragamo sees the salvation for the future of their brand in technological innovations. The intention is to keep loyal customers who enjoyed the personalized old school treatment in their stores, but also to attract a new younger generation who may not have even heard of their famous Audrey shoes, nor of the actress Audrey Hepburn who made them famous.

In this operation, particular agility is expected from Ferragamo's salespersons. They will contact customers across Europe online and organize private shopping for them, and while they are in the store, allow them to peek into virtual reality via smartphone: to 'go' to a factory where shoes are made and choose the color of their favorite model or change some detail. Young customers are attracted by the Spotify playlist packed with photos of new campaigns and fashion shows, whose quest for quick and immediate shopping ends with the online purchase of creations made from sustainable materials and a pickup of the items in the nearest store. It is much faster than waiting for home delivery in the conditions of difficult delivery of shipments.

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“Luksuzni brendovi veliku pozornost polažu na uslugu i interakciju s kupcem, što je u vrijeme izolacije zbog pandemije bilo onemogućeno. Neminovno je da svi osjećamo pad prodaje, no bestseleri su ipak našli put do svojih odanih kupaca putem online narudžbi iz Douglasa. S druge strane, kupcima smo slali više testera kako bi prije nego što otvore naručeno veliko pakiranje, mogli isprobati proizvod te ga vratiti neotvorenog ako im se ne svidi”, kaže Ivana Petković Čevra, digital i PR menadžerica u tvrtki L’Oréal Adria, koja na domaće tržište donosi luksuznu kozmetiku Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, Lancôme…

Nova era šopinga svima donosi nova pravila. Pariška robna kuća Lafayette, koju je godišnje posjećivalo 37 milijuna ljudi, gotovo je tri mjeseca bila zatvorena, a nakon izolacije uvela je ograničenje broja posjetitelja i obavezno nošenje zaštitnih maski.

No i prije pandemije Lafayette je zapošljavao 300 osobnih stilista za texting (slanje tekstualnih poruka) koji su koristili softver Twilio, a planiraju uvesti i videochat za pomoć pri objašnjavanju detalja, čime su privukli pozornost milenijalaca. Potvrđuju time da, bez obzira na svu automatizaciju, prodavači prednjače u uspostavljanju veza i prenošenju preporuka kupcima te da se u većini slučajeva prema njihovu djelovanju stječe prvi dojam o brendu i proizvodu. Upravo su prod avači nositelji stvarnog potencijala rasta čak i u digitalnoj eri.

In the conditions of increased security and contactless payment, Apple Pay and Google Pay are booming. Many brands are increasingly turning to texting, phone calls and video chats with a new generation of customers. This new 'one on one' shopping experience is a combination of automation and salesperson service, a kind of recreation of closeness and immediacy to facilitate access to customers. Burberry has developed an app that allows their instore employees to chat with customers around the world, and Nike and Longchamp allow online customers to connect with staff in the store - for stylish shopping guidance.

But not all wealthy clients are willing to buy that way. Although the most luxurious brands from the watch and jewellery sector invest a lot in their presence on social networks, in sales they still rely mostly on the customer experience in the store. Arnaud Légeret, communications manager for the Swiss watchmaker MB&F, explains: “Buying our watches online - without prior physical contact - is extremely rare. The starting price of the model is $ 50,000 and most of our watches cost between 90 and 160 thousand dollars, so when you buy such a top model, you first want to put it on your hand in our boutique.”

Less than five percent of luxury watches and gems in the world are sold online and analysts at the Swiss Vontobel Bank predict that as early as 2025 it will rise to 20 percent. Like many watchmaking factories, Ulysse Nardin has long resisted e-commerce, but the pandemic and isolation have accelerated the process of winning over younger generations of customers.

“Online sales are a natural direction in our desire to rejuvenate the brand. It is a logical step after the implementation of the new boutique concept in Geneva, Shanghai, Dubai and Beijing, and good cooperation with the traditional sales network will be crucial for its success”, says Françoise Bezzola, Ulysse Nardin’s Marketing Director, whose Diver X Nemo Point watch is available exclusively to online shoppers as of June. But once they feel close a luxury brand, all customers eventually like to stop by at a classic boutique for expert advice, listen in person to the ticking of a new watch or touch jewellery, just as cream and perfume buyers in the beauty industry physically have to try a new product.

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PRIJE JE CILJ BIO U PRODAVAONICE PRIVUĆI ŠTO VIŠE KUPACA, A SADA JE CILJ NJIHOVO OKUPLJANJE POMOĆU TEHNOLOGIJE PREVIOUSLY, THE GOAL WAS TO ATTRACT AS MANY CUSTOMERS AS POSSIBLE TO THE STORES, AND NOW THE GOAL IS TO DISPERSE THEIR GATHERING WITH THE HELP OF TECHNOLOGY

“Luxury brands pay great attention to service and customer interaction, which was not possible during the isolation due to the pandemic. Inevitably, we all feel the drop in sales, but bestsellers have still found their way to their loyal customers through online orders from Douglas. On the other hand, we sent our customers several testers, so that before they open the ordered large package, they could try the product and return it unopened if they didn't like it”, says Ivana Petković Čevra, digital and PR manager at L'Oreal Adria, which places luxury cosmetics Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, Lancome etc. on the domestic market.

A new era of shopping brings new rules to everyone. The Parisian department store Lafayette, visited by 37 million people a year, was closed for almost three months, and after the isolation, they introduced a limit on the number of visitors and mandatory wearing of protective masks.

But even before the pandemic, Lafayette employed 300 personal texting stylists who used Twilio software and now plan to introduce video chat to help explain the details, which attracted the attention of millennials. They confirm that, regardless of all automation, salespeople are at the forefront of establishing connections and conveying recommendations to customers, and that in most cases, the first impression of the brand and product is gained through their actions. It is retailers that bear real growth potential, even in the digital age.

ALS PROMO

SPOJ LUKSUZA, TRADICIJE I KVALITETE JAMČI USPJEH OTVORENA JE NAJLUKSUZNIJA P O S L O V N I C A G H E TA L D U S O P T I K E N A NOVOJ LOKACIJI U DUBROVNIKU, GDJE SU U PONUDI SAMO NAJBOLJI BRENDOVI

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očetak 2020. godine bio je ključan za Ghetaldus Optiku zbog dugoočekivane promjene imidža, no to što se mijenjamo prema van, ne znači da smo odlučili zaboraviti ono što predstavlja našu optiku, a to je druga tradicija i vjernost kupaca koja raste iz godine u godinu.

To što ostajemo vjerni tradiciji koju gradimo dugi niz godina znači da ne posustajemo u svojoj vodećoj poziciji hrvatske optičke kuće te da vam donosimo još bolju ponudu svjetskih poznatih brendova sunčanih i dioptrijskih naočala.

Upravo vođeni tom idejom odlučili smo Dubrovniku, gradu duge i svima dobro poznate tradicije, pružiti najkvalitetniju uslugu naših optičara uz ponudu poznatih luksuznih brendova naočala.

Dita, Thom Browne, Cutler & Gross, Max Mara, Fendi, Hugo Boss, Guess, Jimmy Choo, David Beckham brendovi su koji čine samo mali dio naše bogate ponude. Naravno, tu je i vlastita robna marka KLISABzaGhetaldus, nastala u suradnji s dizajnerima nove generacije. Riječ je o modnom dvojcu Klisab. Poigravanje uzorcima, siluetama i krojevima dobro je poznato u modnim kreacijama toga modnog dvojca, a njihov je potpis prenesen i na kolekciju KLISABzaGhetaldus.

U sklopu osvježenja naše robne marke promijenjena je i lokacija poslovnice koju odsad možete pronaći na adresi Ante Starčevića 49 u Dubrovniku.

THE COMBINATION OF LUXURY, TRADITION AND QUALITY GUARANTEES SUCCESS T H E M O ST L U X U R I O U S G H E TA L D U S O P T I C S B R A N C H S T O R E , O F F E R I N G O N LY THE BEST BRANDS, OPENED IN A NEW L O C AT I O N I N D U B R O V N I K

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he beginning of 2020 was crucial for Ghetaldus Optics due to the long-awaited image change, but the fact that we are changing outwards does not mean that we have decided to forget what our optics stands for, and that is long tradition and customer loyalty which grows from year to year.

The fact that we remain faithful to the tradition that we have been building for many years means that we do not give up on our leading position of the Croatian optics house and that we bring you an even better offer of world-famous brands of sunglasses and prescription eyeglasses. Guided by this very idea, we decided to provide Dubrovnik, a city with a long and well-known tradition, with the highest quality service provided by our opticians along with the offer of luxury eyewear premium brands.

Dita, Thom Browne, Cutler & Gross, Max Mara, Fendi, Hugo Boss, Guess, Jimmy Choo, David Beckham are brands that make up only a small part of our rich offer. Of course, there is also our own brand KLISABforGhetaldus, created in collaboration with the new generation of designers, the fashion duo Klisab. Playing with patterns, silhouettes and cut designs is what the fashion creations of this fashion duo are known for, and their signature was transferred to the KLISAB collection for Ghetaldus.

As part of the refresh of our brand, the location of the branch store has been changed and can now be found at the address 49 Ante Starčevića Street in Dubrovnik.

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LUKSUZ U SVIJETU U KOJEM JE SVE VEĆ VIĐENO 80

D R U ŠT V E N E M R E Ž E , P O S E B I C E I N STA G R A M , ODUZIMAJU DESTINACIJAMA I ISKUSTVU AURU NEDOSTIŽNOG TE LUKSUZNOG. KAKO SE NOSITI S TIM IZAZOVIMA, OTKRIVA JAMES CHAPPELL, G L O B A L N I P O S L O V N I D I R E K TO R T V R T K E H O R W AT H H T L , S VJ E T S K O G L I D E R A Z A K O N Z A LT I N G U TURIZMU I UGOSTITELJSTVU R A Z G OVARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: MARTINA RAFAELI FOTO G RAFIJ E_PHOTOGRAPHS : NIK LDN/U NSP LASH

INTERVJU • INSIDER'S VIEW

LUXURY IN THE WORLD WHERE EVERYTHING IS 'ALREADY SEEN' S O C I A L N E T W O R K S , E S P E C I A L LY I N S T A G R A M , A R E TA K I N G A W AY T H E A U R A O F U N R E A C H A B L E FO R L U X U R I O U S D E ST I N AT I O N S A N D E X P E R I E N C E S .

H O W TO R E S P O N D TO T H E C H A L L E N G E I S W H AT W E LEARN FROM JAMES CHAPPELL, GLOBAL BUSINESS D I R E C TO R O F H O R W AT H H T L , T H E W O R L D L E A D E R I N C O N S U LT I N G I N T O U R I S M A N D H O S P I T A L I T Y

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ames Chappell globalni je poslovni direktor tvrtke Horwath HTL, najstarijeg i najvećeg svjetskog brenda za savjetovanje u turizmu i ugostiteljstvu, odgovoran za 50 ureda u 39 zemalja svijeta. Horwath HTL cijenjen je zbog stručnosti u ugostiteljskom sektoru te zato što u sektoru turizma ima najiskusnije lokalne stručnjake. James Chappell prošle je godine gostovao u Zagrebu na konferenciji “Može li hrvatski turizam 365?”, kojoj je cilj bio predstaviti potencijale, mogućnosti, pozitivne prakse i rješenja za razvoj cjelogodišnjeg turizma u Hrvatskoj i regiji te razgovarati o njima. Iskustvo Jamesa Chappella je veliko i vrlo zanimljivo, što potvrđuje i redovitim gostovanjima na brojnim konferencijama te u emisijama vezanima uz turizam na CNN-u, BBC-ju, Bloombergu i slično pa je bilo zanimljivo čuti što misli o razvoju luksuznog turizma u regiji, ali i o nezaobilaznoj temi oporavka tržišta nakon pandemije virusa COVID-19. U izvješću “Tourism & Hospitality: Country ReOpening Policies”, objavljenom u lipnju 2020., Chappell navodi posebnosti u poslovanju pojedinih tržišta, ističući da se globalno hospitality tržište nalazi u različitim fazama otvaranja ili u pripremama za otvaranje te da postoje sve pouzdaniji znaci da pojedina tržišta počinju vidjeti svjetlo na kraju tunela. Rezultat je to mjera pojedinih vlada i nužne stalne prilagodljivosti, posebice onih gospodarstava koja

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ames Chappell is the global business director of Horwath HTL, the world’s oldest and largest tourism and hospitality consulting brand, with 50 offices in 39 countries. Horwath HTL is valued for its expertise in the hospitality sector and for having the most experienced local experts in the tourism sector. Last year, James Chappell was a guest in Zagreb at the conference “Croatian Tourism 365?”, which aimed to present and discuss the potentials, opportunities, positive practices and solutions for the development of year-round tourism in Croatia and the region. James Chappell's experience is large and very interesting, which is confirmed by regular guest appearances at numerous conferences and shows related to tourism on CNN, BBC, Bloomberg, etc., therefore, it was interesting to hear his thoughts on the development of luxury tourism in the region, but also about the inevitable topic of market recovery after the COVID-19 virus pandemic. In the report “Tourism & Hospitality: Country Re-Opening Policies” published in June 2020, Chappell points out the specifics of the business of individual markets, noting that the global hospitality market is in various stages of opening or preparing to open, and that there are increasingly reliable signs that individual markets are beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. That is the result of both measures of individual governments and the constant necessary flexibility, especially of those eco-

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY | James Chappell, globalni poslovni direktor tvrtke Horwath HTL | James Chappell, Global Business Director of Horwath HTL

uvelike ovise o turizmu. Budućnost turizma i dalje je neizvjesna te prije svega ovisi o nizu mjera pojedinih zemlja, stoga se i Chappell nada da popuštanje mjera neće dovesti do porasta broja zaraženih nego do itekako potrebnih poticaja za spas turizma u 2020. godini. I dok mnogi ističu da će se upravo pravim mjerama omogućiti oporavak ponajprije luksuznog turizma, zanimljivo je čuti što James Chappell misli o razvoju luksuznog turizma u regiji. Što se podrazumijeva pod pojmom luksuznih putovanja?

Sažeto, neodoljiva je želja luksuznog putnika ekskluzivnost. Taj temeljni zahtjev pokreće sve luksuzne inicijative, bilo da je riječ o high-end odredištu ili o odmaralištu u divljini. Luksuzni putnik u potrazi je za iskustvom koje malo tko drugi ima.

Koliko je veliko i važno globalno tržište luksuznog turizma?

Nemoguće je točno reći koliko ta industrija zarađuje, ali dovoljno je naglasiti da je tržište luksuznog turizma najvažnije iz perspektive brenda i profitabilnosti. Luksuzna su putovanja poput svjetla koje privlači i sva druga putovanja te oblike turizma.

Prihvaćen je stav da ono što je danas luksuz, sutra zanima masovno tržište.

Koji su trendovi u luksuznim putovanjima?

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U svijetu nakon Instagrama ništa nije novo i sve se već dogodilo, a to snažno utječe na industriju luksuza. Vjerujem da je tržište luksuza danas u potpunosti usredotočeno na područje zdravlja i wellnessa.

Budući da je većina luksuznih putnika iskusila ono što su htjeli doživjeti, usmjereni su na mentalno i fizičko zdravlje. Vjerujem da će od toga najviše koristi imati klinike specijalizirane za dugovječnost i kvalitetu života.

Kako razviti i zadržati prepoznatljivost u segmentu luksuznog turizma?

Prije svega, ponuda proizvoda i usluga mora biti potpuno usredotočena na zahtjeve luksuznih putnika.

Ako shvaćate da je luksuz vezan uz ekskluzivnost, vaša jedinstvena ponuda mora to i odražavati. Osim toga, ako tvrdite da imate luksuznu ponudu, ona treba biti ili zaista high-end s opipljivog, stvarnog stajališta ili imati autentičnost koja se ne može lako kupiti. Ako nemate to dvoje, priroda društvenih medija upućuje na to da će vaše poslovanje vrlo brzo

nomies that in large numbers depend on tourism. The future of tourism is still uncertain and depends primarily on a number of measures of individual countries, so Chappell hopes that the relaxation of measures will not lead to an increase in the number of infected people but to much-needed incentives to save tourism in 2020. And while many point out that the right measures will enable the recovery of luxury tourism in the first place, it is interesting to hear what James Chappell thinks about the development of luxury tourism in the region.

What exactly is luxury travel?

In short, the overwhelming desire of the luxury traveller is exclusivity. This fundamental requirement drives all luxury initiatives, whether at the very, very highend resort, or a Wilderness resort. Ultimately, I believe that what the luxury traveller is after is an experience that few others are able to have.

How big and important is global luxury tourism market?

It is really impossible to say from a dollar perspective how large the industry is, but suffice to say, the luxury tourism market is the most important from a branding and profitability perspective. Luxury travel is like the light used to attract all other travel and forms of tourism. It is know that today's luxury is tomorrow's mass market.

What are the trends in luxury travel?

In the post-Instagram world, there is nothing that is new or that hasn't already happened, and this strongly affects the luxury industry. I believe that the luxury market today is completely focused on the area of health and wellness. Since most luxury travellers have experienced what they wished to experience, they are focused on mental and physical health. I believe that clinics specializing in longevity and quality of life will benefit from this most.

How to develop and maintain recognition in the luxury tourism segment?

First of all, the offer of products and services must be fully focused on the requirements of luxury travellers. If you understand that luxury is about exclusivity,

BUDUĆI DA JE VEĆINA LUKSUZNIH PUTNIKA ISKUSILA ONO ŠTO SU HTJELI DOŽIVJETI, USMJERENI SU NA MENTALNO I FIZIČKO ZDRAVLJE SINCE MOST LUXURY TRAVELLERS HAVE EXPERIENCED WHAT THEY WISHED TO EXPERIENCE, THEY ARE FOCUSED ON MENTAL AND PHYSICAL HEALTH

nestati - ako nije ono što tvrdite da jest. Postoji i drugi izazov, a to je kako održavati tu neuhvatljivu, ekskluzivnu poslovnu ponudu. Cijena je uobičajen način izbjegavanja određenih klijenata, ali nije ni približno učinkovit kao nekada.

Je li Adria regija prepoznata po luksuznom turizmu?

Koje su njezine prednosti?

Regija ima područje koje je prepoznato u svijetu luksuza, a to je nautički segment. Ali uz jednu ili dvije marine kao iznimke, a pritom mislim na Crnu Goru, regija nije na razini visokog luksuza kao što biste to očekivali, primjerice, u Monaku. Vrijedno je istaknuti da imate reputaciju regije s nevjerojatnim morem, otocima i iznimnim prirodnim ljepotama. A činjenica da taj oblik ponude nije pretjerano razvijen, sama je po sebi iznimno privlačna luksuznim putnicima, onima koji traže autentično iskustvo koje neće prevladavati među drugim bogatim ljudima. Pitanje je, naravno, kako ćete nastaviti kreirati ponudu na kopnu. Na tom bi se području regija mogla razvijati, uz potporu privatnih ulagača koji u fokusu imaju povezivanje iskustva mora i kopna. Vjerujem da ta kombinacija otvara velike mogućnosti.

Na prošlogodišnjoj konferenciji “Može li hrvatski turizam 365?” održanoj u Zagrebu govorili ste o aspektima i elementima cjelogodišnjeg turizma.

Koliko je on važan za luksuzni turizam?

To su dvije odvojene strategije. Definicija cjelogodišnjeg turizma nikada neće biti dio high-end doživljaja. Kada gledate posebnosti koje može ponuditi Adria regija, one su najvećim dijelom usmjerene na ljetne aktivnosti. To nije kritika nego realnost. Tržište luksuza mora se usredotočiti na najbolje elemente regije, a to su more i netaknuta područja prirodnih ljepota.

Nije realno očekivati da će ono zaživjeti dulje od nekoliko mjeseci u godini. Što mislite o razvoju luksuznog nautičkog turizma u Hrvatskoj?

Još se mnogo toga može napraviti. Taj je segment nevjerojatno rascjepkan - od područja do područja - i ne postoji zajednički stav koji putnike upućuje u pravom smjeru. Internetski marketing i ostale inicijative nisu dovoljno dobri te u usporedbi s drugim luksuznim destinacijama ne odražavaju očekivani standard. Dobra je vijest da je “sirovi materijal” s kojim se može raditi jako kvalitetan te da se i druga područja mogu relativno lako poboljšati.

PRIHVAĆEN JE STAV DA ONO ŠTO JE DANAS LUKSUZ, SUTRA ZANIMA MASOVNO TRŽIŠTE IT IS KNOW THAT TODAY'S LUXURY IS TOMORROW'S MASS MARKET

your unique offering must reflect that. Also, if you claim to have a luxury offer, it should either be really high-end from a tangible, real point of view or it should have an authenticity that cannot be easily bought. If you don’t have those two, the nature of social media suggests that your business will be gone very quickly - if it’s not what you claim it is. There is another challenge, and that is how to maintain that elusive, exclusive business offering. Price is a common way to avoid certain customers, but it’s not nearly as efficient as it used to be.

Is Adria region recognized as a luxury destination? What are its advantages?

I would say that the Adria region has one area where it is recognized in the world of luxury and that is the nautical segment. With the exception of one or two marinas, where Montenegro springs to mind, the region is not set up for super high-end luxury in the way you would expect it from Monaco for example. What it does have, though, is a reputation for incredible sea, islands and outstanding natural beauty. The very fact that this kind of offer is not overdeveloped is by itself extremely attractive to luxury travellers, who are looking for an authentic experience not so much in demand by other rich people. How you are to continue creating the offer on land is another issue, of course. This is an area which the region could be developed on, with the support of private investors who focus on the linking of sea and land experiences. This combination, I believe opens a lot of possibilities.

At the last year's conference 'Croatian Tourism 365?' in Zagreb you spoke about aspects and elements of year-round tourism. Is the strategy of 365 Tourism important for luxury tourism?

Those are two separate strategies. By definition, year-round tourism is not going to be at the high end. When you look at the attractions that the Adria region has to offer, these are very much geared towards summer activities. That is not a criticism; that is just the reality. The luxury market needs to focus on the very best elements of the region which are the sea and unspoiled areas of natural beauty. It is not realistic to expect this will last for more than a few months of the year.

What is your opinion on the development of luxury nautical tourism in Croatia?

I think there is plenty more that can be done. It still seems to me that this segment is incredibly fragmented, on an area to area basis, and that there is no shared central thinking that steers travellers in the right direction. Online marketing and other initiatives are not good enough and when compared to other luxury destinations do not reflect the required standard. The good news is that the ‘raw materials’ are extremely good for doing business with and the other areas are relatively easy to improve.

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PRE POZ NAT LJI VOST KAKO SVJETSKI GASTRO VODIČI UTJEČU NA IMIDŽ HRVATSKE NA PI S A L A _W O R DS: M A RT IN A R A FA EL I FOTO G R A F I J E_ PH OTO S: A M Z PR E SS

GASTRO TURIZAM IMA VAŽNU ULOGU NA GLOBALNOM PLANU ZAHVALJUJUĆI SVE VEĆEM BROJ PUTNIKA KOJI PUTUJU U ŽELJI ZA OTKRIVANJEM N A J B O L J E G O D L O K A L N E K U LT U R E I AUTENTIČNE KUHINJE. KOLIKO S M O Z A I STA P R E P O Z N AT I N A G A ST R O N O M S KO J K A R T I S V I J E TA ULASKOM VAŽNIH GASTRO VODIČA N A H R V ATS K U K U L I N A R S K U S C E N U ?

RECOGNITION HOW INFLUENTIAL ARE WORLD GASTRO GUIDES ON THE RECOGNIZABILITY OF CROATIA? 85

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LD TERRACE, KORČULA | chef Marko Gajski

osljednjih godina svjedočimo iznim­no zanimljivim doživljajima na globalnoj gastro sceni - od uspješnih nacionalnih projekata koji su pojedine regije svijeta, poput Južne Amerike i jugoistočne Azije, učinili iznimno poželjnim velikom broju turista do utjecaja pojedinih restorana i chefova čiji je uspjeh poticaj za snažni razvoj gastro scene matičnih gradova i država.

Odličan primjer su slavni René Redzepi s konceptom Nome u Kopenhagenu, restorana o kojem će s ponosom govoriti svaki taksist, te chef Ana Roš iz Slovenije koju je nedavno World Tourism Organization u sklopu Ujedinjenih naroda proglasio globalnom ambasadoricom gastronomskog turizma. Tom prilikom Zurab Pololikashvili, generalni tajnik World Tourism Organizationa, izjavio je: “Turizam i ruralni razvoj moto su WTO-a za 2020. godinu. Zbog predanosti pri korištenju lokalnih namirnica Ana Roš vodeći je primjer suradnje u održivom poslovanju.”

Hrana je oduvijek bila važna komponenta u stvaranju turističkog doživljaja, a posljednjih je godina i važan generator prihoda. Danas hrana “hrani” lokalne ekonomije, pruža izniman sadržaj medijima, odrađuje snažan marketing te, važno je istaknuti, kreira nova radna mjesta.

A što putnici žele? Uz obavezne posjete vrhunskim restoranima, kako onim ovjenčanim Michelinovim zvjezdicama tako i onim otkrivenim u vrhunskim food serijalima, žele uživati u nezaobilaznom street foodu, raznim degustacijama, posjetima vinarijama, tržnicama i food festivalima, a zanimljivo je da se često aviokarte kupuju u skladu s potvrđenom rezervacijom u željenom restoranu.

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A gdje se u tom svijetu nalazi Hrvatska? Zemlja smo koju iz godine u godinu posjećuje sve veći broj turista koji otkrivaju i identitet domaće enogastronomije i raznovrsnost terroira, a u prilog neprestanog razvoja govori sve veći broj vrhunskih restorana. Najbolja potvrda tom napretku je i prisutnost dvaju vodećih svjetska gastro vodiča - Michelin i Gault&Millau. O tome koliko prisutnost tih vodiča utječe na prepoznatljivost Hrvatske Slavija Jačan Obratov, direktorica Sektora za sustav turističkih zajednica i razvoj proizvoda HTZ-a, kaže: “Pozicioniranju Hrvatske kao zemlje vrhunske eno-gastronomske ponude s va k a ko pridonose Michelin i Gault&Millau, jedni od najutjecajnijih svjetskih brendova i vodiča u gastronomiji. Biti dio te priče za Hrvatsku znači nalaziti se na gastronomskoj

(

2020.)

G A ST R O TO U R I S M H A S A N I M P O R TA N T ROLE ON A GLOBAL SCALE THANKS TO THE GROWING NUMBER OF TRAVELLERS WHO TRAVEL IN SEARCH OF DISCOVERING THE BEST O F L O C A L C U LT U R E A N D A U T H E N T I C C U I S I N E .

S I N C E T H E I N T R O D U C I N G O F T H E I M P O R TA N T G A ST R O G U I D E S O N T H E C R O AT I A N C U L I N A RY SCENE THE QUESTION ARISES AS TO HOW M U C H W E A R E R E A L LY R E C O G N I Z E D O N T H E GASTRONOMIC MAP OF THE WORLD

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n recent years, we have witnessed extremely interesting experiences on the global gastro scene - from successful national projects that have made certain regions of the world, such as South America and Southeast Asia, extremely desirable to a large number of tourists to the influence of certain restaurants and chefs whose success is the impetus for the strong development of the gastro scene in their own hometowns and states. Excellent examples are the famous chef René Redzepi with the concept of Noma in Copenhagen, a restaurant that every taxi driver will be proud to talk about, and Slovenian chef Ana Roš, who was recently named global ambassador of gastronomic tourism by the World Tourism Organization, a specialized agency of the United Nations. On that occasion, Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary-General of the World Tourism Organization, stated: “Tourism and rural development are the motto of the WTO for 2020. Due to her commitment to using local foods, Ana Roš is a leading example of cooperation in sustainable business.”

Food has always been an important component in creating a tourist

karti svijeta. Posjetitelji naše zemlje žele upoznati tradicionalne okuse te se pri izboru restorana često oslanjaju na preporuke pouzdanih gastronomskih vodiča kojima vjeruju. Iznimno smo ponosni na kontinuiranu suradnju putem koje hrvatska eno-gastronomija jača međunarodnu afirmaciju i prepoznatljivost.”

No dolazak tih vodiča nije se dogodio preko noći. “Prve kontakte s Michelinom ostvarili smo 2016., a intenzivnija suradnja počela je sljedeće dvije godine, i to ponajprije raznim marketinškim suradnjama koje su uključivale isticanje restorana sa zvjezdicama i preporukama na komunikacijskim platformama Michelina, kao i promociju hrvatske gastronomije. Organizirane su i zajedničke prezentacije Michelina i Hrvatske turističke zajednice u europskim gastronomskim metropolama kao što su Pariz i Milano. Riječ je o događanjima u sklopu kojih su hrvatski chefovi Rudi Štefan i Deni Srdoč, zajedno s inozemnim chefovima koji rade u restoranima nositeljima prestižne Michelinove zvjezdice, pripremali jela od autohtonih hrvatskih namirnica, a sve kako bi brojnim uzvanicima, među kojima su bili i vrlo utjecajni gastronomski novinari, influenceri i blogeri, na najbolji način predstavili hrvatsku gastronomiju i tako promovirali taj oblik naše turističke ponude. U 2018. godini je radi promocije odabranih Michelinovih restorana u Hrvatskoj izrađena karta koja je obuhvatila sve takve restorane te popratne turističke informacije, a u prošloj je godini produciran i tzv. crveni Michelinov vodič na 96 stranica za Hrvatsku na engleskom jeziku koji je nezaobilazan na sajmovima i prezentacijama gdje Hrvatska turistička zajednica promovira hrvatski turizam. Osim toga, ostvarujemo i marketinšku suradnju s najvažnijim gastro konferencijama u Hrvatskoj te smo dio brojnih evenata kojima je u fokusu promocija hrvatske gastronomije. Danas se Hrvatska može pohvaliti s ukupno 70 restorana koji nose Michelinovu oznaku, od kojih je čak pet s onom najprestižnijom zvjezdicom”, objašnjava Jačan Obratov.

Krajem veljače stigao je Michelinov vodič za 2020. koji je predstavio i dvije nove zvjezdice na gastro nebu Hrvatske. Dobili su ih restorani Boškinac na Pagu i Lešić Dimitri na Korčuli, nakon što je zvjezdicu prije tri godine dobio rovinjski Monte, godinu kasnije šibenski Pelegrini i dubrovački 360 te 2019. zagrebački Noel i lovranska Draga di Lovrana. “Ove godine naš izbor reflektira pozitivne trendove na hrvatskoj gastronomskoj sceni, u cijeloj zemlji. Sa 70 restorana u vodiču hrvatska kuhinja napreduje i postaje bolja,

PELEGRINI, ŠIBENIK | chef Rudolf Štefan (

2018.)

experience, and in recent years it has also been an important revenue generator. Today, food “feeds” the local economy, provides exceptional content to the media, does strong marketing and creates new jobs, which is important to point out.

And what do travellers want? In addition to the unavoidable visits to top restaurants, both to those awarded with Michelin stars and those uncovered in top food shows, they want to enjoy the inevitable street food, various tastings, visits to wineries, markets and food festivals, and what is interesting is that airplane tickets are often bought in accordance with confirmed reservation at the desired restaurant.

And where is Croatia’s position in that world? We are a country which is, from year to year, discovered by an increasing number of tourists who also wish to discover the identity of domestic eno-gastronomy

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360, DUBROVNIK | chef Mario Curić (

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posebno time što se koncentrira na energiju chefova koji biraju najbolje meso i povrće iz lokalnih sredina i najbolju ribu”, izjavio je o ovogodišnjem izboru internacionalni direktor Michelinovih vodiča Gwendal Poullennec.

Tri su godine prošle od dolaska prestižnoga gastronomskog vodiča Gault&Millau na hrvatsku scenu, a o samim počecima govori Ingrid Badurina Danielsson, direktorica Gault&Millau Hrvatska: “Na početku je vodič mnogima, uključujući i ljude od struke, bio gotovo nepoznat.

Osim u Istri, na Kvarneru i u Zagrebu, gdje se određeni broj restorana nalazio u austrijskom i z d a nju vod ič a, većina i h nije č u la z a Gault&Millau. Iako je riječ o jednom od dva najvažnija svjetska brenda na području gastronomije, mnogi nisu znali da postoji, a nekima je i danas teško izgovoriti ime Gault&Millau (fonetski Go Mijo) koje dolazi od prezimena Henrija Gaulta i Christiana Millaua, slavnih francuskih gastro kritičara koji su vodič pokrenuli prije gotovo 60 godina. Kao i u drugim zemljama u kojima izlazi nacionalno izdanje vodiča - veći dio zemalja EU, Japan, Rusija, Australija, Antili – danas je i u Hrvatskoj Gault&Millau Croatia sinonim za kompetentnost, vjerodostojnost i pouzdanost ocjenjivanja.”

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Oba su vodiča odnedavno prisutna i u susjednoj Sloveniji te će zasigurno utjecati na prepoznatljivost slovenske gastro scene. U Sloveniji, ali i u Hrvatskoj dolaskom vodiča nametnula su se pitanja o tome koliko stoji projekt Michelin (koji razvijaju nacionalna ministarstva turizma i krovne turističke zajednice) znajući da novac nije dovoljan kako bi ovaj vodič došao u neku zemlju ili grad jer je ponajprije potrebna dovoljno razvijena i kvalitetna gastro scena. Podatak o tome koliko je Hrvatska uložila u takav oblik promocije nije javno dostupan, no slovenski mediji ističu iznos od 925.000 eura, koji su slovenska vlada i slovenska turistička zajednica (STO) platili za dvije godine izlaska ovog vodiča, dok Kalifornija, koja je svoj vodič dobila prošle godine, za godinu plaća oko 600.000 američkih dolara. Južna Koreja je samo za vodič za Seul investirala 1,8 milijuna američkih dolara, a tajlandska je vlada za petogodišnji ugovor za Bangkok izdvojila 4,1 milijun američkih dolara.

“Svjetski gastro vodiči Michelin i Gault&Millau uvelike mijenjaju restoransku scenu u regiji. Korak po korak trudimo se biti uz rame velikim svjetskim gastro silama, a ulaskom Michelina i GM u Lijepu Našu to polako i ostvarujemo. Cilj nam je zajednički - prezentirati naše bogato gastronomsko nasljeđe, kulturu i tradiciju svih krajeva

and the diversity of terroir, and the growing number of top restaurants speaks in favour of constant development. The best confirmation of this progress is our presence in two leading world gastro guides, Michelin and Gault & Millau. On how influential the presence of the two guides is on the recognizability of Croatia, Slavija Jačan Obratov, the Director of the Sector for the Tourist Boards System and Product Development at the Croatian National Tourist Board (CNTB), says: “Michelin and Gault & Millau, the world’s most influential brands and gastronomy guides, certainly contribute to positioning Croatia as a country with top eno-gastronomic offer. For Croatia, being a part of that story means being on the gastronomic map of the world. Visitors to our country want to get to know traditional flavours and, when choosing a restaurant, they often rely on the recommendations of reliable gastronomic guides they trust. We are extremely proud of the continuous co-cooperation through which Croatian eno-gastronomy strengthens international affirmation and recognition.”

But the arrival of these guides did not happen overnight. “We made our first contacts with Michelin in 2016, and more intensive cooperation began over the following two years, primarily through various marketing collaborations which included highlighting the restaurants with stars and recommendations on Michelin communication platforms, as well as promoting Croatian gastronomy. Michelin and the Croatian National Tourist Board joined presentations were organized in European gastronomic metropolises such as Paris and Milan. Those were events in which Croatian chefs Rudi Štefan and Deni Srdoč, along with foreign chefs who work in restaurants with the prestigious Michelin star, prepared dishes from indigenous Croatian foods in order to present Croatian ga-

MONTE, ROVINJ | chef Danijel Đekić (

2017.)

Hrvatske te sve to ukomponirati u jedno: nezaboravno iskustvo koje će naši gosti pamtiti i po čemu ćemo biti prepoznatljivi. Uvijek kažem da treba napraviti korak natrag kako bismo ostvarili korak naprijed! Prema tome, vjerujem da se moramo vratiti našoj tradiciji, starim i zaboravljenim okusima kako bismo prvo mi prepoznali i doživjeli ono što imamo, a kasnije sve to prenijeli našim gostima”, smatra Rudi Štefan, chef i vlasnik restorana Pelegrini u Šibeniku, koji je nositelj Michelinove zvjezdice od 2018. godine.

Na pitanje utječu li zvjezdice i preporuke na porast prometa restorana ovjenčanih zvjezdicama i preporukama mediji su dosta pisali, a poznata je i izjava slavnog fra ncuskog chefa Joëla Robuchona, koji je nažalost preminuo, a čiji su restorani u svijetu dobili više od 30 Michelinovih zvjezdica: “Jednom Michelinovom zvijezdom dobivate oko 20 posto više posla, dvjema zvjezdicama dobivate oko 40 posto više posla, a trima čak i 100 posto više posla.”

Iskustvo hrvatskog Gault&Millau vodiča ukazuje na to da, zahvaljujući principu rada prema provjerenoj metodologiji i preciznim pravilima (svi njihovi inspektori prošli su obavezni trening i njihove ocjene svagdje imaju istu vrijednost), restorani potvrđuju da im žuta, prepoznatljiva naljepnica Gault&Millaua na ulazu dovodi mnogo više gostiju, posebno stranaca, što je, kako ističe Badurina Danielsson, i glavni cilj vodiča.

U vezi važnosti zvjezdica i preporuka Slavija Jačan Obratov ističe kako su nove zvjezdice i preporuke hrvatskim restoranima rezultat kontinuiranog rada, truda i kreativnosti naših chefova i svih koji rade taj zahtjevan posao, a koje ocjenjivači tih dvaju svjetski poznatih vodiča vide i nagrađuju. “Osim toga, kontinuirani porast zvjezdica i preporuka znači da hrvatska gastronomija apsolutno zadovoljava zahtjevne međunarodne kriterije kvalitete. Svaka nagrada, pa tako i zvjezdice i preporuke, snažan su poticaj za daljnji razvoj i promociju naše eno-gastronomije te daljnje pozicioniranje na tržištu. Sigurno je da će gost koji iznimno cijeni vrhunsku gastronomiju nakon dolaska na određenu lokaciju potražiti restoran koji zadovoljava njegove kriterije. U tom smislu sigurna sam da nagrađeni restorani mogu računati na jake promotivne efekte, a posljedično i porast prometa”, objašnjava Jačan Obratov.

Vezano uz temu važnosti i utjecaja gastro vodiča na domaću scenu, Ingrid Badurina Danielsson ističe: “Dolaskom vodiča promijenio se i odnos prema chefovima kuhinja jer Gault&Millau Croatia radi na unapređenju hrvatske gastronom-

DRAGA DI LOVRANA, LOVRAN | chef Deni Srdoč (

2019.)

stronomy in the best way to numerous guests, including very influential gastronomic journalists, influencers and bloggers and thus promote this form of our tourist offer. In 2018, a map which included all selected restaurants and accompanying tourist information was made in order to promote selected Michelin restaurants in Croatia, and last year the socalled ‘red’ Michelin Guide Selection for Croatia was published in English on 96 pages. The guide is essential at fairs and presentations where the Croatian National Tourist Board promotes Croatian tourism.

In addition, we establish marketing cooperation with the most important gastronomic conferences in Croatia and we are part of numerous events that focus on the promotion of Croatian gastronomy. Today, Croatia can boast of a total of 70 Michelin-labelled restaurants, five of which have the most prestigious star,” explains Jačan Obratov. At the end of February, the Michelin guide for 2020 arrived. It presented two new stars in the Croatian gastronomy sky- the restaurants Boškinac on the island of Pag and Lešić Dimitri on the island of Korčula. Restaurant Monte from Rovinj received the star in 2017, restaurants Pelegrini from Šibenik and 360 from Dubrovnik received it a year later, followed by Zagreb’s Noel and Lovran’s Draga di Lovrana who got it in 2019. “This year, our selection reflects the positive trends on the Croatian gastronomic scene, in all parts of the country. With 70 restaurants in the guide, Croatian cuisine is making progress and getting better, especially by focusing on the energy of chefs who choose the best meat and vegetables from local areas and the best fish”, Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of Michelin guides, commented this year’s selection.

Three years have passed since the arrival of the prestigious gastronomic guide Gault & Millau on the Croatian scene, and Ingrid Badurina

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ske ponude podrškom i valorizacijom kuhara iz svih hrvatskih regija. Godišnja dodjela kulinarskih Oscara, prestižnih Gault&Millau trofeja najboljim chefovima, nagrada je za njihov trud i kvalitetu njihova rada. Vodič se posebno zalaže za kuhinje s autorskim pečatom koje su izraz podneblja kojemu pripadaju i želi otkriti mlade talente te ih poticati. Sa sigurnošću možemo reći da je u ove tri godine u tome uspio, kao što možemo reći i da su hrvatski restorani, posebno chefovi kuhinja i kuhari, prepoznali vrijednost vodiča Gault&Millau Croatia. Naravno, ima onih koji se neće složiti s ocjenama i recenzijama, ima i onih koji su razočarani jer nisu prepoznati kao najbolji, ali svi poštuju vodič jer znaju da se istinski zalaže za izvrsnost hrvatske gastronomije te za njezino predstavljanje i promociju na međunarodnoj gastronomskoj sceni.”

Treba istaknuti da se nakon zatvaranja restoranske scene zbog pandemije ona opet budi, hrvatski restorani s Michelinovom zvjezdicom, kao i oni s vrijednim preporukama, spremno kreću u novu sezonu. Predviđanja su nemoguća, ali nitko ne sumnja u važnost nastavka usavršavanja domaće gastro scene uz naglasak na autentičnosti i lokalno proiz­ vedenoj hrani.

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Uz postojanje vrhunskih vodiča Michelin i Gault&Millau, iznim­ no je važno istaknuti druge aktivnosti i vodiče koji Hrvatsku izdvajaju na svjetskoj sceni.

Iznimno su važni rezultati koje ostvaruju naši vinari na brojnim svjetskim natjecanjima, to što iz godine u godinu raste broj onih koji šalju uzorke svojih vina na prestižni Decanter World Wine Awards, na kojem je 2019. predstavljeno više od 17.000 vina iz više od 50 zemalja. U toj konkurenciji hrvatska vina osvojila su 7 zlatnih, 55 srebrnih i 77 brončanih medalja, što je važno zbog prepoznatljivosti hrvatskih vina. Osim toga, treba istaknuti da je Istra u posljednjem, jedanaestom izdanju najutjecajnijeg svjetskog vodiča za vrhunska maslinova ulja Flos Olei za 2020. petu godinu zaredom proglašena najboljom maslinarskom regijom svijeta. U ovaj je vodič uvršteno 79 ulja s područja Hrvatske, od kojih je 77 iz Istre te po jedno s otoka Krka i iz Dalmacije. Istarski su se uljari na ocjenjivanju Flos Oleija prvi put pojavili prije 15 godina, a Marco Oreggia, osnivač vodiča Flos Olei, istaknuo je: “Bile su to godine velikog rasta zahvaljujući jakoj podršci institucija koje su znale vrednovati sektor i poticati proiz­ vođače da obnove tradiciju tako duboko ukorije-

Danielsson, director of Gault & Millau Croatia, talks about the very beginnings: “In the beginning, the guide was almost unknown to many, including professionals. Except in Istria, Kvarner and Zagreb, where a number of restaurants were included in the Austrian edition of the guide, most of them had not heard of Gault & Millau. Although it is one of the two most important world brands in the field of gastronomy, many did not know it existed, and some still find it difficult to pronounce the name Gault & Millau (phonetic Go-Me-Yo) which comes from the surnames of Henry Gault and Christian Millau, famous French gastronomic critics who launched the guide almost 60 years ago. As in other countries where the national edition of the guide is published – which is most of the EU countries, Japan, Russia, Australia, the Antilles archipelago – in Croatia today Gault & Millau Croatia is also synonymous with competence, credibility and reliability of assessment.”

As of recently both guides have been present in neighbouring Slovenia and will certainly influence the recognizability of the Slovenian gastro scene. With the arrival of the guides in Slovenia, but also in Croatia, questions arose about the cost of the Michelin project (which is developed by national ministries of tourism and umbrella tourist boards) knowing that money is not enough for this guide to be published in a country or city because first of all, a country needs sufficiently developed and quality gastro scene. | Slavija Jačan Information on how much Croatia has invested Obratov, in this form of promotion is not publicly avaidirektorica lable, but Slovenian media point out the amoSektora za unt of € 925,000, which the Slovenian gosustav turističkih vernment and the Slovenian Tourist Board zajednica i razvoj (STO in Slovenian) paid for two years of puproizvoda HTZ-a, i Ingrid Badurina blishing this guide, while California, which got Danielsson, its guide last year, pays about $ 600,000 a year. direktorica South Korea has invested $ 1.8 million in the Gault&Millau guide to Seoul alone and the Thai government Hrvatska invested $ 4.1 million for a five-year contract for Bangkok.

“World gastro guides Michelin and Gault & Millau are greatly changing the restaurant scene in the region. Step by step, we are trying to be on the same level with the world’s great gastronomic nations, and with the arrival of Michelin and GM in Croatia, we are slowly achieving this. We have a common goal - to present our rich gastronomic heritage, culture and tradition of all parts of Croatia and combine it all into one: an unforgettable experience that our guests will remember and by which we will be recognizable. What I always like to say is that we need to take a step back in order to | Slavija Jačan Obratov, the take a step forward. Therefore, I believe that we Director of the Sector for the must return to our tradition, old and forgotten Tourist Boards System and tastes so that we can first recognize and expeProduct Development at CNTB rience what we have, and later pass it on to our and Ingrid Badurina Danielsson, guests”, says Rudi Štefan, chef and owner of director of Gault&Millau Croatia Pelegrini restaurant in Šibenik, which is also a Michelin star holder since 2018. The media wrote a lot about the question of whether stars and recommendations affect the increase in demand for restaurants awarded with stars, and the well-known statement by a

NOEL, ZAGREB | ex chef Goran Kočiš (

2019.)

njenu u teritorij i poboljšaju kvalitetu. Danas možemo reći da su istarski maslinari procvjetali.”

Direktorica HTZ-ova sektora za sustav turističkih zajednica i razvoj proizvoda Slavija Jačan Obratov istaknula je i važnost edukativnih radionica s Michelinovim chefovima koje posljednjih godina HTZ provodi nastojeći pridonijeti razvoju hrvatske gastronomije. “Tijekom protekle tri godine organizirali smo osam specijaliziranih radionica na temu gastronomije i enologije pod nazivom ‘Hrvatska 365 Gourmet’, a na kojima su predavači bili chefovi, nositelji Michelinovih zvjezdica iz inozemstva, vodeći sommelieri i stručnjaci za marketing. Radionice su ponajprije bile namijenjene ugostiteljima, chefovima, sommelierima, a imale su i edukativnu ulogu te su obrađivane teme vezane uz svjetske kulinarske trendove, lokalnu kuhinju, moderno slastičarstvo i menadžment restorana. Održane su u Splitu, Opatiji, Osijeku, Zagrebu, Puli, Dubrovniku, Vukovaru i Varaždinu, a okupile su više od 600 sudionika koji su imali priliku slušati predavanja i gledati prezentacije te pripreme jela najvećih svjetskih stručnjaka. Treba istaknuti i da je gastronomija većini turista sekundarni motiv pri odluci o putovanjima, a prema istraživanjima HTZ-a, oko 20 posto potencijalnih turista na ključnim europ-

famous French chef Joël Robuchon, who sadly passed away and whose restaurants around the world were awarded with more than 30 Michelin stars, simply answers it: “With one Michelin star, you get about 20 percent more business, with two stars you do about 40 percent more business and with three stars you’ll do about 100 percent more business.”

The experience of the Croatian Gault & Millau guide indicates that, thanks to the principle of working according to a proven methodology and precise rules (all their inspectors have undergone mandatory training and the points they give are the same everywhere), restaurants confirm that the recognizable yellow Gault & Millau label on their entrance brings them many more guests, especially foreigners, and this is, as Badurina Danielsson points out, the main goal of the guide.

Regarding the importance of stars and recommendations, Slavija Jačan Obratov points out that the new stars and recommendations to Croatian restaurants are the result of continuous work, effort and creativity of our chefs and all those who do this demanding job, and this is something evaluators of these two worldfamous guides see and reward. “In addition, the continuous increase in stars and recommendations means that Croatian gastronomy absolutely meets the demanding international quality criteria. Each award, including stars and recommendations, is a strong incentive for further development and promotion of our eno-gastronomy and further positioning in the market. It is certain that after arriving at a particular location, a guest who highly appreciates top gastronomy will look for a restaurant that meets this criterion. In that sense, I am sure that the awarded restaurants can count on strong promotional effects, and consequently an increase in business”, explains Jačan Obratov.

Regarding the importance and influence of gastro guides on the domestic gastronomic scene Ingrid Badurina Danielsson points out: “With the arrival of guides, the attitude towards chefs has changed because Gault & Millau Croatia is trying to improve the Croatian gastronomic offer by supporting and acknowledging chefs from all regions of Croatia.

The annual awarding of culinary Oscars, prestigious Gault & Millau trophies, to the best chefs is a reward for their efforts and the quality of their work. The guide is especially committed to signature cuisine which is an expression of the climate it belongs to and wants to discover and encourage young talented chefs. We can say with certainty that it has succeeded in this in these three years, as we can say that Croatian restaurants, and especially chefs and cooks have recognized the value of the Gault & Millau Croatia guide. Of course, there are those who will not agree with the ratings and reviews and there are those who are disappointed because they are not recognized as the best, but everyone respects the guide because they know that it truly stands for the excellence of Croatian gastronomy and its presentation and promotion on the international gastronomic scene.”

It should be noted that, after the closure of the restaurants due to the pandemic, the gastronomic scene is awoken up again and Croatian Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as those with invaluable recommendations, are ready to start the new season. It is impossible to predict anything, but no one doubts the importance of continuing to

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BOŠKINAC, STARA NOVALJA, PAG | chef Matija Bregeš (

2020.)

improve the domestic gastro scene with an emphasis on authenticity and locally produced food.

In addition to the existence of top Michelin and Gault & Millau guides, it is extremely important to point out other activities and guides that set Croatia apart on the world stage. The results achieved by our winemakers at numerous world competitions are extremely important and each year the number of those who send samples of their wines to the prestigious wine competition named Decanter World Wine Awards increases. In 2019, more than 17,000 wines from more than 50 countries was presented in that competition. Croatian wines won 7 gold, 55 silver and 77 bronze medals, which is important because of the recognizability of Croatian wines.

Besides, it should also be noted that in the recent, eleventh edition of the world’s most influential guide to premium olive oils Flos Olei for 2020, Istria was named the best olive growing region in the world for the fifth year in a row. This guide includes 79 oils from Croatia, of which 77 are from Istria, one from the island of Krk and one from Dalmatia. Istrian oil producers first started taking part in the Flos Olei evaluation 15 years ago, and Marco Oreggia, founder and publisher of the Flos Olei guide, said: “Those were the years of great growth, thanks to the strong support of institutions which valued the sector and encouraged producers to renew tradition so deeply rooted in the territory and improve quality.

Today we can say that olive growing in Istria has flourished.”

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skim tržištima motivirano je u svojim putovanjima upravo gastronomijom. Kao potencijalni razlozi za odabir Hrvatske kao destinacije gastronomskog turizma navode se kvaliteta hrane, namirnica i vina, geografski položaj te kultura i kulturno nasljeđe. Gastronomska ponuda Hrvatske promovira se aktivnostima HTZ-a kao što su suradnje s prestižnim međunarodnim vodičima poput Michelina i Gault&Millaua, ali i posebnim promotivnim, marketinškim i PR kampanjama, organizacijom studijskih putovanja inozemnih novinara specijaliziranih za gastronomiju i enologiju, objavom brojnih promotivnih članaka o hrvatskoj gastronomiji u inozemnim medijima te na društvenim mrežama i slično.

Zadovoljni smo dosad postignutim te ćemo nastaviti fokusiranu promidžbu ovog dijela naše ponude po kojoj smo u međunarodnim okvirima sve autentičniji i prepoznatljiviji.”

Govoreći o regiji, važno je istaknuti da je Slovenija prošle godine predstavila dokument pod nazivom Akcijski nacrt razvoja i marketinga gastronomskog turizma Slovenije od 2019. do 2023., koji je stvoren s potrebom pozicioniranja Slovenije kao

Slavija Jačan Obratov, Director of the CNTB’s Sector for the System of Tourist Boards and Product Development, also emphasized the importance of educational workshops with Michelin chefs that CNTB has been conducting in recent years in an effort to contribute to the development of Croatian gastronomy. “Over the past three years, we have organized eight specialized workshops on gastronomy and enology called ‘Croatia 365 Gourmet’, where the lecturers were chefs, Michelin star holders from abroad, leading sommeliers and marketing experts. The workshops were primarily intended for caterers, chefs, sommeliers, and also had an educational role and covered topics related to world culinary trends, local cuisine, modern confectionery and restaurant management.

The workshops were held in Split, Opatija, Osijek, Zagreb, Pula, Dubrovnik, Vukovar and Varaždin, and were attended by more than 600 participants who had the opportunity to listen to lectures and watch the world’s greatest experts present and prepare meals. It should be pointed out that gastronomy is a secondary motive for most tourists when deciding on travel, and according to CNTB research, about 20 percent of potential tourists in key European markets are motivated in their travels by gastronomy. Potential reasons for choosing Croatia as a destination for gastronomic tourism are the quality groceries, food and wine, geographical location, culture and cultural heritage. Croatia’s gastronomic offer is promoted by CNTB activities such as cooperation with prestigious international guides such as Michelin and Gault & Millau, but also by special promotional, marketing and PR campaigns, organization of study trips for foreign journalists specializing in gastronomy and enology, publication of numerous promotional articles on Croatian gastronomy in foreign media, on social networks and the like. We are satisfied with what has been achieved so far and we will continue to focus on the promotion of this part of our offer, which we are internationally more and more authentic and recognizable for.”

Speaking about the region, it is important to point out that last year Slovenia presented a document entitled “Action Plan for the Development

jedinstvene, butik gastronomske destinacije.

Susjedi su osvojili i titulu europske gastronomske regije za 2021., a sve s namjerom isticanja prepoznatljivosti i izvrsnosti.

Na pitanje ima li Hrvatska nacrt ili dokument razvoja hrvatske gastronomije po uzoru na neke prepoznatljive gastro destinacije, Slavija Jačan Obratov odgovara: “Promotivne aktivnosti Hrvatske turističke zajednice u proteklom razdoblju usklađene su i proizlaze iz dva ključna strateška dokumenta hrvatskog turizma, a to su Strategija hrvatskog turizma i Strateški marketinški plan hrvatskog turizma koji je upravo gastronomiju prepoznao kao jedan od ključnih turističkih proizvoda Hrvatske koje treba snažno podupirati i promovirati. Ona je ocijenjena kao jedan od ključnih proizvoda za stvaranje motiva dolazaka u razdoblju predsezone i posezone, kao i za povećanje potrošnje gostiju. Postoje i ostale inicijative i projekti poput projekta ‘Gourmet Hrvatska’ koji je prošle godine predstavljen na konferenciji u Iloku, a čiji je nositelj bilo Ministarst vo gospodarst va u suradnji s Ministarstvom turizma te ostalim ministarstvima i institucijama koji sudjeluju u razvoju i promociji hrvatske gastronomije, a u kojem su definirani i usuglašeni vizija i ciljevi promicanja Hrvatske kao gastronomske destinacije.”

A na pitanje na čemu se treba temeljiti budućnost hrvatskog eno-gastro turizma, Jačan Obratov odgovara: “Ponajprije na kreativnosti i autentičnosti gastronomske ponude, praćenju trendova u svjetskoj gastronomiji te kreiranju jela koja sadrže osobni ‘dodir’ chefa koji ih pripravlja. Hrvatska ima priliku postati butik destinacija kad je o gastronomiji riječ jer se kao relativno mala država u svjetskim okvirima možemo pohvaliti iznim­ nom raznolikošću eno-gastronomske ponude temeljene na tradiciji, regionalnim posebnostima, lokalnim proizvodima i uslužnom sustavu. Naši vrhunski restorani, chefovi i vinari prepoznaju bogatstvo prirodnih resursa koje vješto pretvaraju u prepoznatljive tradicionalne okuse čineći našu zemlju sve atraktivnijom butik gastro destinacijom čija ponuda iz godine u godinu postaje sve kvalitetnija, kreativnija i posebnija. Upravo putem domaće hrane i autohtonih vinskih sorti brojni posjetitelji žele okusiti naše destinacije približavajući se tako običajima, životu i tradiciji lokalnog stanovništva. Cijeni se domaća, zdrava i izvorna hrvatska namirnica te upravo zbog toga tradicija, autohtonost, autentičnost i kreativnost, unošenje daška osobnosti u hranu koja se pripravlja i jela koja se serviraju predstavljaju dobitnu kombinaciju kada je riječ o razvoju hrvatske gastronomije.”

and Marketing of Gastronomic Tourism of Slovenia from 2019 to 2023”, which was created with the need to position Slovenia as a unique boutique gastronomic destination. This neighbouring country also won the title of European gastronomic region for 2021, all with the intention of highlighting recognition and excellence.

When asked if Croatia has a draft or document for the development of Croatian gastronomy modelled on some of the recognizable gastro destinations, Slavija Jačan Obratov said: “The promotional activities of the Croatian National Tourist Board in the previous period have been in compliance with and derive from two key strategic documents - Croatian Tourism Strategy and the Strategic Marketing Plan for Croatian Tourism, which has recognized gastronomy as one of the key tourist products of Croatia which should be strongly supported and promoted. Gastronomy was rated as one of the key aspects of motivating tourists’ arrivals in the pre-season and post-season, as well as for increasing consumption. There are other initiatives and projects such as the ‘Gourmet Croatia’ project, which was presented at a conference in Ilok last year, and which was carried out by the Ministry of Economy in cooperation with the Ministry of Tourism and other ministries and institutions involved in the development and promotion of Croatian gastronomy. In that project, the vision and goals of promoting Croatia as a gastronomic destination have been defined and agreed upon.”

When asked what the future of Croatian eno-gastro tourism should be based on, Jačan Obratov says: “First of all, on the creativity and authenticity of the gastronomic offer, keeping up with trends in world gastronomy and creating dishes that contain chef’s personal touch. Croatia has the opportunity to become a boutique destination when it comes to gastronomy because as a relatively small country we can boast of an exceptional diversity of eno-gastronomic offer based on tradition, regional specialties, local products and service system. Our top restaurants, chefs and winemakers recognize the wealth of natural resources which they skilfully transform into recognizable traditional flavours, making our country an increasingly attractive boutique gastro destination whose offer is becoming more and more high-quality, creative and special every year. Through local food and indigenous wine varieties, many visitors want to ‘taste’ our destinations and thus approach the customs, life and traditions of the local population. Domestic, healthy and traditional Croatian food is appreciated and that is why tradition, autochthony, authenticity, creativity and bringing a touch of personality to the food being prepared and the dishes served are a winning combination when it comes to the development of Croatian gastronomy.”

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| Uz postojanje vrhunskih vodiča, treba istaknuti i druge aktivnosti i vodiče koji Hrvatsku izdvajaju na svjetskoj sceni | In addition to existing premium guides, it is important to point out other activities and guides that set Croatia apart on the world’s gastronomic map

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GORIVO BUDUĆNOSTI

VODIK

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GLOBALNI JE CILJ U SLJEDEĆIH 30 GODINA POTPUNO E L I M I N I R AT I E M I S I J U STA K L E N I Č K I H P L I N O V A U TRANSPORTU. NAKON MREŽE PUNIONICA ZA ELEKTRIČNA V O Z I L A N A B AT E R I J E , JE LI VRIJEME ZA TEHNOLOGIJU ČIJI SU JEDINI NUSPROIZVODI TOPLINA I VODA TO L I KO Č I STA D A S E MOŽE PITI?

NA PI SA L A _ W O R DS: DA N IJ E L A PET R OV FOTO G R A F I J E _ P H OTO S: SH UT T ER STO CK I PR IVAT N I A L BUM

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udući da je globalni cilj do 2050. godine potpuno eliminirati emisiju štetnih stakleničkih plinova, sve se više govori o potrebi uvođenja vodikovih tehnologija u promet.

Iako je automobil na vodikov pogon, Hyundai ix35, predstavljen još prije 15 godina, razvoj transporta temeljenog na vodiku kao najčišćem gorivu ne odvija se onoliko brzo koliko bi trebao. Doduše, mnoge zemlje, a ponajprije Kina kao predvodnica trendova već ulažu goleme subvencije u vodikove tehnologije, ali statistika pokazuje da je u svijetu trenutačno oko 12.900 automobila na vodik, a u Hrvatskoj nijedan. Mnogi još nisu dovoljno informirani o prednostima takvog načina vožnje. Primjerice, ne znaju da se automobil na pogon vodikom može napuniti za samo tri minute ili da su jedini vodikovi nusproizvodi toplina i voda, koja je toliko čista da se može piti!

“Riječ je o električnim automobilima koji električnu energiju potrebnu za pogon elek-

tromotora dobivaju iz vodika putem svežnja gorivnih članaka. Gorivni članak (engl. fuel cell) je uređaj u kojemu se elektrokemijskim izgaranjem vodika iz spremnika i kisika iz zraka proizvodi električna energija, a jedini su nusproizvodi toplina i voda.

Dobivena je voda uistinu toliko čista da se može piti. Potrošnja automobila na vodik iznosi približno 1 kg vodika na 100 km, a prosječan spremnik takvog automobila sadrži 5 kg vodika, što je dostatno za 500 do 520 kilometara u idealnim uvjetima”, pojašnjava doc. dr. sc. Ankica Kovač iz Zavoda za energetska postrojenja, energetiku i okoliš Fakulteta strojarstva i brodogradnje u Zagrebu.

Ona kaže da je priča o vodiku poput začaranog kruga jer su vozilima na pogon vodikom potrebne punionice na prometnicama i obrnuto, a premalo je i jednog i drugog.

Najviše je takvih vozila u SAD-u (46%), a slijede Japan sa 23% i Kina sa 14%.

Preostalih 17% odnosi se na Europu i ostatak svijeta. Tri zemlje s trenutačno najvećim

HYDROGEN THE FUEL OF THE FUTURE T H E G L O B A L G O A L O V E R T H E N E X T 3 0 Y E A R S I S T O C O M P L E T E LY E L I M I N A T E G R E E N H O U S E G A S E M I S S I O N S I N T R A N S P O R T. A F T E R I N T R O D U C I N G A N E T W O R K O F C H A R G I N G STAT I O N S FO R B AT T E RY - P O W E R E D E L E C T R I C V E H I C L E S, I S I T T I M E FO R T E C H N O L O G Y W H O S E O N LY B Y - P R O D U C T S A R E H E A T A N D W A T E R -SO CLEAN IT CAN BE GOOD FOR DRINKING?

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s the global goal is to completely eliminate harmful greenhouse gas emissions by 2050, the need to introduce hydrogen technologies into the market has become an important topic to be discussed lately. Although the hydrogen fuel cell electric vehicle, the Hyundai ix35 FCEV, was introduced 15 years ago, the development of transportation based on hydrogen as the cleanest fuel is not going as fast as it should. However, many countries, especially China as a trend leader, are already investing huge subventions in hydrogen technologies, but statistics show that there are currently about 12,900 hydrogen fuel cell cars in the world, and none in Croatia. Many are not sufficiently informed about the benefits of such a drive yet. For instance, they don’t know that a hydrogen fuel cell car can be charged in only three minutes or that only by-products of hydrogen are heat and water, which is so clean it can be good for drinking.

“Hydrogen fuel cell cars are electric cars that get the electricity needed to power the electric motor from hydrogen through a bundle of fuel cells. A fuel cell is an electrochemical device that generates electricity using compressed hydrogen from the tank and oxygen from the air and the only by-products are water and heat. The water by-product is indeed so clean it can be good for drinking.

The consumption of a hydrogen car is approximately 1 kg of hydrogen per 100 km, and the average hydrogen tank contains 5 kg of hydrogen, which is enough to cover the distance of 500 to 520 kilometres in ideal conditions”, explains Ankica Kovač, Ph. D., MEng AE., assistant professor at the Depa r t ment of Energ y, Power a nd Environmental Engineering, Faculty of Mechanica l Engineering and Nava l Architecture in Zagreb.

She says the story of hydrogen is like a vicious circle because we need more hydrogen fuel cell vehicles and those vehicles need fuelling stations on the roads, and there are

too few of both. There is the biggest number of such vehicles in the US (46%), followed

by Japan with 23% and China with 14%.

The remaining 17% is in Europe and the rest of the world. The three countries with the largest number of publicly available hydrogen fuelling stations are Japan with 100, Germany with 60 and the United States with 44 fuelling stations. When will Croatia welcome its first?

“Ina has expressed interest in the possible expansion of business in the field of hydrogen, so a business meeting 'Hydrogen in Croatia' was organized in October 2019. I find this a strategically important initiative given that Ina already produces hydrogen in its plants in quantities that can meet the needs of a large number of potential hydrogen fuel cell vehicles. Currently, the problem is that this hydrogen is 'gray' and not 'green', i.e. there is an accompanying emission of carbon dioxide in its production.

But INA is already thinking about how to

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OSIM U TRANSPORTU, VODIK NALAZI PRIMJENU U INDUSTRIJI, KUĆANSTVIMA, BOLNICAMA, TELEKOMUNIKACIJSKIM KOMPANIJAMA...

APART FROM TRANSPORT, HYDROGEN IS USED IN INDUSTRY, HOUSEHOLDS, HOSPITALS, TELECOMMUNICATIONS, ETC.

brojem javno dostupnih vodikovih punionica su Japan sa 100 punionica, Njemačka sa 60 i SAD sa 44 punionice. Kad će Hrvatska dočekati svoju?

“Ina je iskazala interes za moguće proširenje poslovanja na područje vodika pa je u listopadu 2019. organiziran poslovni skup ‘Vodik u Hrvatskoj’. Smatram to strateški važnom inicijativom s obzirom na to da Ina u svojim postrojenjima već proizvodi vodik u količinama koje mogu zadovoljiti potrebe velikoga broja potencijalnih vozila na vodik.

Trenutačno je problem što je taj vodik ‘siv’, a ne ‘zelen’, odnosno u njegovoj proizvodnji postoji popratna emisija ugljikova dioksida.

No u Ini već razmišljaju o tome kako da njihov ‘sivi’ vodik postane ‘zeleni’. Pod pojmom ‘zeleni’ mislim na vodik dobiven elektrolizom vode korištenjem obnovljivih izvora energije, primjerice Sunčeve. To bi, s obzirom na zastupljenost Ininih benzinskih postaja diljem zemlje, trebao biti njihov logičan i strateški važan iskorak”, smatra doc. dr. sc. Kovač, koja sudjeluje u brojnim projektima kojima je cilj popularizacija i podizanje svijesti o važnosti čistog transporta temeljenog na vodiku.

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ku, potpisao Inicijativu za poticanje primjene vodika, a riječ je o deklaraciji kojom se žele potaknuti istraživanje i razvoj vodikovih tehnologija s primjenom u transportu, industriji, kućanstvima i općoj energetici”, kaže doc. Kovač, koja i sama vozi električni bicikl na vodik koji je razvijen na njezinu fakultetu, baš kao i prva hrvatska punionica vodika. Otkrila nam je i kako im je upravo odobren v išemi liju nsk i projekt “Osiguranje električne energije u slučaju klimatskih ekstrema i prirodnih katastrofa”, u sklopu kojeg će provoditi istraživanja na stacionarnim sustavima temeljenim na vodiku za opskrbu električnom energijom.

“Dakle, osim u transportu, vodik se može primjenjivati u industriji, kućanstvima, bolnicama, telekomunikacijskim kompanijama... S obzirom na urgentnu potrebu prilagodbe klimatskim promjenama koju zagovara politika EU, očekujem da bi vodikova tehnologija u sljedećih pet do deset godina mogla z a živjeti u punom sjaju i u Hrvatskoj”, zaključila je prof. Kovač.

Tako je Fakultet strojarstva i brodogradnje lani, u suradnji s tvrtkom Toyota Croatia d.o.o., čija Toyota Mirai vozi na vodik, organizirao Croatia Mirai Challenge pa je automobil na vodik prvi put vozio hrvatsk im cesta ma, i to od Za greba do Bruxellesa. U Budimpešti je, u suradnji s Velikom Britanijom, također organiziran regionalni skup na kojem je doc. Kovač predstavila aktivnosti Hrvatske kao članice Technology Collaboration Programme on Advanced Fuel Cells (AFC TCP).

“Iako u maloj mjeri, vodik je uvršten u Hrvatsku energetsku strategiju pa se već za 2025. godinu planira instalacija vodikovih punionica, a do 2050. godine imali bismo ukupno 75 punionica. Također, državni tajnik u Ministarstvu zaštite okoliša i energetike Ivo Milatić je u Linzu, na neformalnom sastanku Vijeća ministara za energeti-

Dr. sc. Ankica Kovač iz Zavoda za energetska postrojenja, energetiku i okoliš Fakulteta strojarstva i brodogradnje u Zagrebu | Ankica Kovač, Ph. D., from the Department of Energy, Power and Environmental Engineering, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Naval Architecture in Zagreb

make their 'gray' hydrogen 'green'. By 'green' it means hydrogen obtained by electrolysis of water using renewable energy sources, such as solar energy. Given the presence of INA gas stations throughout the country, this should be their logical and strategically important step forward”, believes professor Kovač, who has participated in numerous projects aimed at popularizing and raising awareness of the importance of clean hydrogen-based transport.

Therefore the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Naval Architecture, in cooperation with Toyota Croatia d.o.o., whose Toyota Mirai is a hydrogen fuel cell car, organized the Croatia Mirai Challenge last year. It was a Zagreb-Brussels drive of the first hydrogen fuel cell car on Croatian roads. In cooperation with Great Britain, a regional meeting was also organized in Budapest, where professor Kovač presented Croatia's activities as a member of the Technology Collaboration Program on Adva nced Fuel Cells (A FC TCP).

“Although to a small extent, hydrogen is included in the Croatian energy strategy, so the installation of hydrogen fuelling stations is planned for 2025, and by 2050 we would have a total of 75 fuelling stations.

Also, at an informal meeting of the Council of Energy Ministers in Linz, Ivo Milatić, State Secretar y at the Ministr y of Environment and Energy, signed the Hydrogen Initiative, a declaration to encourage research and development of hydrogen technologies with application in transport, industry, households and general energy ", says professor Kovač, who herself rides a hydrogen fuel cells powered bicycle which was, as well as the first Croatian hydrogen fuelling station, developed at her university. She also revealed that they have just been approved the multimillion-dollar project named “Electricity supply in case of climate extremes and natural disasters”, as part of which they will conduct research on stationary systems for electricity supply based on hydrogen.

"So, apart from transport, hydrogen is used in industry, households, hospitals, telecommunications companies, etc. Given the urgent need for adaptation to climate change advocated by EU policy, I expect that hydrogen technology could be put in practical use fully in Croatia as well in the next five to ten years”, concludes professor Kovač.

SUV CITROËN C5 AIRCROSS

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citroen.hr

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LEKCIJE NICHE PARFEMA K A KO S E I STA K N U T I N A SVE VEĆEM TRŽIŠTU LUKSUZNIH NICHE PA R F E M A? Š T O J E S A M A ESENCIJA KVALITETE I KO L I KO J E T E Š KO P O STAT I "VELIK" BEZ ZALEĐA VELIKE TVRTKE? OTKRIVA NAM JAN EWOUD VOS, OSNIVAČ I UMJETNIČKI DIREKTOR PA R F E M S K E K U Ć E P U R E D I STA N C E

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INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

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uksuz ne mora biti Ferrari”, govori mi Jan Ewoud Vos, poduzetnik koji je osnovao jedno od najpoznatijih imena u svijetu nezavisnih niche parfema, Puredistance, dok sjedimo u luksuz­ nom unajmljenom stanu u središtu Zagreba. “I Airbnb može biti luksuz”, smije se Vos dok uživa u čaši dobrog vina. Očito cijeni luksuz na nepretenciozan, pomalo atipičan način, bez razmetanja. Posjetio je hrvatsku metro­ polu u povodu Adria Luxury Summita 2019., na kojem je sudjelovao u panel-diskusiji “Niche parfemi - mirisi budućnosti”.

Jan Ewoud Vos ne dolazi iz Pariza, njegovi djedovi nisu uzgajali ruže u Grasseu na jugu Francuske, ni­ ti su njegovi prijatelji na visokim položajima u par­ femskoj industriji, a ipak je uspio osnovati parfem­ sku kuću koja je od 2005. godine, kada je predsta­ vila prvi parfem Puredistance I, uspjela zauzeti važno mjesto na parfemskoj sceni. On je Nizozemac, bivši teniski as, poduzetnik i fotograf, majka mu je umjetnica, modna kreatorica i učiteljica baleta, a otac menadžer s uspješnom karijerom u marketingu.

Rođen je 1962. u nizozemskom gradu Leeuwardenu, glavnom gradu pokrajine Friesland. Nakon srednje škole upisao je studij engleskog jezika i menadžmen­ ta u Amsterdamu, ali nakon tri mjeseca odustao je od studija i osnovao tvrtku za sportski turizam, a poslije i agenciju za fotografiju. “Karijeru treba mi­ jenjati svakih deset godina”, kaže mi Vos koji je pr­ vi zaokret u karijeri napravio u tridesetima, kada se počeo baviti fotografijom i osnovao John Foxx Images, tvrtku koja je konkurirala agenciji Corbis Billa Gatesa i slavnoj Getty Images, a bavila se foto­ grafijom i produkcijom. Vjeran svom motu o pro­ mjenama karijere, Vos je početkom 2000-ih prodao tvrtku. “Tada sam odlučio pokušati gotovo nemo­ guće: izgraditi luksuzni parfemski brend od nule”, kaže Vos čiji brend danas broji deset parfema koje potpisuju neki od najcjenjenijih kreatora parfema Antoine Lie, Annie Buzantian, Roja Dove i Cécile Zarokian.

Koja je vaša definicija luksuza?

Luksuz je za mene nešto što si ne možemo priuštiti svaki dan, iskustvo koje nam daje osjećaj privilegija.

Također, luksuz je nešto što nije lako dostupno, što znači da je vrlo skupo i toliko kvalitetno da naša iskrena reakcija može biti jedino: wow! Pritom to može biti uživanje u nekom ritualu, senzaciji, uzbu­ đenju, relaksaciji, dobrom vinu, dobrom parfemu ili jahti usred oceana. U svakom slučaju, luksuz mora biti rijetkost, ne može biti konstanta jer tada više nije luksuz. Primjerice, ako konzumiramo jastoga

LESSONS FROM NICHE PERFUMES H O W TO STA N D O U T I N T H E G R O W I N G MARKET OF LUXURY NICHE PERFUMES? W H AT I S T H E E S S E N C E O F Q U A L I T Y ITSELF AND HOW HARD IS IT TO BECOME ‘ B I G ’ W I T H O U T A L A R G E C O M PA N Y TO S U P P O RT YO U ? J A N E W O U D VO S, FOUNDER AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF T H E P E R F U M E H O U S E P U R E D I STA N C E , SHARES THE SECRET RAZGOV ARAO_INTERV IEWED BY: IVO PARAĆ FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : ARHIVA PU REDISTANC EA , ROB ERT GAŠPERT I DRAŽEN KOKORIĆ

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uxury doesn't have to be a Ferrari,” says Jan Ewoud Vos, an entre­ preneur who founded one of the most famous brands in the world of independent niche perfumes, Puredistance, while sitting in a luxury rented apartment in downtown Zagreb. “And Airbnb can be a luxury,” Vos laughs as he enjoys a glass of good wine. He obviou­ sly appreciates luxury in an unpretentious, somewhat atypical way, without boasting. He visited the Croatian capital for the Adria Luxury Summit 2019, where he participated in the panel discussion “Niche per­ fumes - fragrances of the future”.

Jan Ewoud Vos does not come from Paris, his grandfathers did not grow roses in Grasse in the south of France, nor are his friends in high positions in the perfume industry, and yet he managed to found a perfume house which, since 2005 when the first perfume Puredistance I was launched, managed to take an important place on the perfume scene. He is a Dutchman, a former tennis ace, entrepreneur and photographer. His mother is an artist, fashion designer and ballet teacher, and his father is a manager with a successful career in marketing. He was born in 1962 in the Dutch city of Leeuwarden, the capital of the province of Friesland. After high school, he enrolled the English language and management studies in Amsterdam, but after three months he dropped out and founded a sports tourism company, and later also a photography agency. “One needs a career change every ten years,” says Vos, who made his first career turn in his thirties, when he took up photography and founded photography and production company John Foxx Images which competed with Corbis, the image licensing company by Bill Gates, and the famed Getty Images. True to his motto of career change, Vos sold the company in the early 2000s. “Then I decided to try the almost impossible: build a luxury perfume brand from scratch,” says Vos, whose brand today has ten per­ fumes signed by some of the most respected perfume designers - Antoine Lie, Annie Buzantian, Roja Dove and Cécile Zarokian.

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svaki dan kao da je krumpir, jastog i šampanjac više nisu luksuz, naša osjetila postaju imuna, posta­ jemo razmaženi i ne uživamo ni u čemu. Luksuz je nešto što nije svagdje dostupno, nešto što je gotovo tajnovito i nešto što si ne može svatko priuštiti.

| Parfumer Jon Ewoud Vos na prvom Adria Luxury Summitu u Zagrebu održao je parfumersku radionicu (skroz lijevo); s vlasnicom zagrebačke Parfumerije Lana Svjetlanom Žaknić

Može li se on osjetiti u parfemu?

Mislim da može, djelomično i pod uvjetom da onaj tko miriše parfem vjeruje svojim osjetilima, a ne marketingu. Da pojednostavnim, netko tko nikada nije okusio vino osjetit će razliku između jeftinog kiseliša i najcjenjenijeg vina na svijetu. Kada govo­ rimo o parfemima, mislim da svatko može osjetiti razliku, čak i ako nema nikakvu edukaciju o par­ femima. Jer čim nanesemo luksuzni parfem na kožu, odmah osjetimo kvalitetu zato što ona dotiče naše emocije, mijenja naše raspoloženje i odmah osjećamo taj wow efekt koji sam već spomenuo. A to je nešto u što vas marketing ne može uvjeriti, niti prijatelji oko vas, niti itko drugi. Parfem se ne može definirati kao luksuz ako nema kvalitetu. A kvalitetu svi prepoznaju jer ona pogađa naše emo­ cije. S druge strane, kada govorimo o detaljima, situacija je malo kompliciranija. Primjerice, ako nekome tko se ne razumije u automobile pokažete Aston Martin i Mercedes, neće vidjeti veliku razli­ ku i možda neće primijetiti da je Aston Martin ručno rađen, a Mercedes nije. Stoga vam u nekom trenutku trebaju stručno oko i stručni “nos”, da tako kažem, koji će uspjeti razlikovati što je doista visoke kvalitete, a što nije.

Kako je nastao Puredistance?

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Nakon karijere u tenisu i fotografiji, 2000. godine odlučio sam napraviti nemoguće - kreirati luksuzni parfemski brend od nule! Bez bogatih roditelja, bez pomoći slavnih ličnosti i bez iskustva. Kako tada nisam znao mnogo o parfemima, osim da uživam u njima, htio sam prvo napraviti “domaću zadaću” i počeo sam proučavati parfeme iz zlatnog doba parfumerije, dvadesetih i tridesetih godina. U to su se doba parfemi više fokusirali na kvalitetu, bilo je više vremena za razvoj i kreaciju, a parfemske kuće nisu izdavale desetke parfema u isto vrijeme. Zato sam godinu dana na eBayu i u drugim aukcijskim kućama kupovao sva remek-djela zlatnog doba par­ fumerije jer sam ih htio proučiti, osjetiti i vidjeti.

Današnje parfemske kuće su u neprestanoj žurbi. U žurbi za novcem, a ne za ljepotom i kvalitetom.

Meni se nikamo nije žurilo. Jedna od prvih odluka bila je kreirati liniju parfema koji dolaze samo u verziji Pure Perfume Extrait, liniju čistih parfema koji sadrže 25 do 32% parfemske esencije po uzoru na stare dobre klasike. Stupio sam u kontakt s tvrt­ kom Firmenich koja se bavi kreacijom parfema i proizvodnjom esencija, u kojoj je radila Annie Buzantian, slavna kreatorica parfema zaslužna za mnoge klasike velikih kuća, poput Estée Lauder.

| Parfumer Jon Ewoud Vos participated in the first Adria Luxury Summit as a guest speaker, his perfumes are sold in a niche Perfumery Lana, owned by Svjetlana Žaknić

What is your definition of luxury?

For me luxury is something we can’t afford every day, an experience that gives us a sense of privilege. Also, luxury is something that is not easily available, which means it is very expensive and of such quality that our honest reaction can only be: wow! It can be something like enjoying a ritual, sensation, excitement, relaxa­ tion or enjoying a good wine, a good perfume or a yacht in the middle of the ocean. In any case, luxury must be a rarity. It cannot be constant because then it is no longer luxury. For example, if we eat lobster every day as if it is potatoes, lobster and champagne are no longer a luxury, our senses become immune and we become spoiled and enjoy nothing anymore. Luxury is also something that is not available everywhere, something that is almost mysterious and something that not everyone can afford.

Can luxury be smelled in a perfume?

I think it can, in part, and provided that the one who smells the perfume trusts their senses, not the marketing. To put it simply, someone who has never tasted wine will notice the difference between cheap sorrel and the most prized wine in the world. When we talk about perfumes, I think everyone can smell the diffe­ rence, even if they don’t have any education about perfumes. Because as soon as we apply a luxury perfume on the skin, we immediately notice the quality becau­ se it touches our emotions, changes our mood and we immediately feel that “wow effect” I previously mentioned. And that’s something that neither marketing, nor the friends around you, nor anyone else can convince you of. A perfume cannot be defined as a luxury if it lacks quality. And quality is recognized by everyone because it affects our emotions. On the other hand, when we talk about the deta­ ils, the situation is a little more complicated. For example, if you show an Aston Martin and a Mercedes to someone who doesn’t understand cars, they won’t see much difference and may not notice that the Aston Martin is handmade and the Mercedes isn’t. Therefore, at some point you need an expert eye and an expert “nose”, so to speak, who will be able to distinguish what is really high quality and what is not.

LUKSUZ MORA BITI RIJETKOST, NE MOŽE BITI KONSTANTA JER TADA VIŠE NIJE LUKSUZ LUXURY MUST BE A RARITY. IT CANNOT BE CONSTANT BECAUSE THEN IT IS NO LONGER LUXURY

Htio sam da ona napravi prvi parfem Puredistance.

Susret s njom u New Yorku bio je sretna slučajnost: godinama sam bio fasciniran jednom fotografijom koja je zapravo bila reklamna kampanja za Donnu Karan. Na toj fotografiji manekenka stoji u prekra­ snoj svilenoj sivoj haljini, a oko nje je bijeli snijeg.

Ništa više. Umjesto da joj riječima opisujem kakav parfem želim, Annie sam pokazao tu fotografiju.

Kad ju je vidjela, Annie je zapravo bila šokirana jer je, i sama fascinirana njezinom ljepotom, u ladici čuvala tu istu fotografiju! Parfem koji je kreirala in­ spiriran tom fotografijom uskoro je postao “I” - prvi­ parfem kuće Puredistance.

Kako ste odabrali ime za svoj luksuzni parfem?

Ideju o imenu dobio sam u snu. Jednog sam se jutra probudio i u polusnu vidio prelijepu ženu, minima­ listički odjevenu u elegantnu bijelu haljinu kako ulazi u dvoranu za prijeme prepunu ljudi. Okružena ljudima koji piju koktele, prave se važni, pretjerano su uređeni, preglasno govore... Žena koju vidim je bosonoga i ne nosi nikakve modne dodatke ni logo­ tipove. I nevjerojatno je koliko je lijepa. Poput Grace Kelly - njezina čista ljepota stvara distancu. Zato se brend zove Puredistance.

Kako uspijevate ostati pure? Drugim riječima, kako takav mali i neovisni niche brend preživljava u surovom svijetu parfemskog biznisa?

Vrlo jednostavno - ne pretvaramo se i ne lažemo.

Naši parfemi prodaju se u manje od 100 ovlaštenih parfumerija u svijetu. U Hrvatskoj je to jedino Parfumerija Lana s kojom surađujemo već godina­ ma. Gotovo uopće ne trošimo novac na marketing, radije ga trošimo na sam proizvod. Učinimo to ui­ stinu lijepim i kvalitetnim. Ne samo parfem, nego i ambalažu, vizualnu prezentaciju i ukupan osjećaj.

Stavili smo svoju dušu u to! A često kažemo “ne” prijedlozima, ponudama i ljudima koji više cijene profit od kvalitete. No, nažalost, većina je tvrtki više usmjerena na novac, profit i brzi rast nego na kvalitetu pa zbog toga sami sebe polako uništavaju.

Kako vidite budućnost brenda?

Prvih sedam godina, od 2005. do 2012., zovem ro­ đenjem i djetinjstvom kuće Puredistance. Sljedećih sedam godina, od 2012. do 2019., dijete je brzo sa­ zrelo - naša kolekcija parfema hvaljena je diljem svi­ jeta. Ispostavilo se da je naš DNK dobar temelj pa danas uživamo imidž parfemske kuće s prekrasnim parfemima koje prate ekskluzivne prezentacije i ljudi kojima je stalo do brenda. Sljedećih sedam godina želim raditi na učvršćivanju ljepote našeg brenda i zajedno s našim timom stvarati još beskompromisne kvalitete i ljepote temeljene na istom jednostavnom i čistom DNK koji nam je otpočetka tako dobro služio. I na kraju, uvijek ćemo se držati našega glav­ nog mota: Small is beautiful [malo je lijepo].

How was Puredistance born?

After a career in tennis and photography, in 2000 I decided to do the impossible - create a luxury perfume brand from scratch, without having rich parents, without the help of celebrities and without experience. Since I didn't know much about perfumes at the time, other than to enjoy them, I wanted to do my “homework” first and started studying perfumes from the golden age of perfumery, the 1920s and 1930s. At that time, perfumes focused more on quality. There was more time for development and creation, and perfume houses did not release dozens of per­ fumes at the same time. That’s why I spent a year on eBay and other auction hou­ ses buying all the masterpieces of the golden age of perfumery because I wanted to study, feel and see them. Today's perfume houses are in a constant hurry- hurry for money and not beauty and quality. I was in no hurry. One of the first decisions was to make a line of perfumes that come only in the Pure Perfume Extrait version, a line of pure perfumes that contain 25-32% perfume essence modelled on the good old classics. I got in touch with the company Firmenich, which deals with perfume creation and the production of essences, and in which Annie Buzantian, a famous perfume designer responsible for many classics of big houses such as Estée Lauder, worked. I wanted her to make the first Puredistance perfume. Meeting her in New York was a happy coincidence: for years I was fascinated by one photo that was actually an advertising campaign for Donna Karan. In that photo, the model is standing in a beautiful silk gray dress, surrounded by white snow and nothing more. Instead of describing to her in words what kind of perfume I want, I showed Annie that photo. When she saw it, she was actually shocked because she kept that same photo in a drawer, fascinated by her beauty. The perfume she created, inspi­ red by that photo, soon became “I” - the first perfume of Puredistance.

How did you choose a name for your luxury perfume?

I got the idea for the name in a dream. One morning I woke up and half asleep I saw a beautiful woman, minimally dressed in an elegant white dress, stepping into a reception hall full of people. She was surrounded by people drinking cock­ tails, showing off, overly done up and talking too loudly... The woman I see is barefoot and does not wear any fashion accessories or any logos. And it is amazing how beautiful she is. Like Grace Kelly - her pure beauty creates a distance. That is why the brand is called Puredistance.

How do you manage to remain pure? In other words, how does such a small and independent niche brand survive in the harsh world of the perfume business?

It is very simple - we do not pretend and we do not lie. Our perfumes are sold in less than 100 authorized perfumeries in the world. In Croatia, it is only Perfumery Lana we have been cooperating for years with. We spend almost no money on marketing. We prefer to spend it on the product itself. We make it really beautiful and high quality. Not just the perfume, but also packaging, visual presentation and overall feeling. We put our soul into it. And we often say “no” to proposals, offers, and people who value profit more than quality. But unfortunately, most companies are more focused on money, profit, and rapid growth than on quality, so they are slowly destroying their own business.

How do you define the future of your brand?

The first seven years, from 2005 to 2012, I call the birth and childhood of the house of Puredistance. For the next seven years, from 2012 to 2019, the child matured quickly - our perfume collection was praised around the world. It turned out that Puredistance DNA is a good foundation, so today we enjoy the image of a perfume house with beautiful perfumes that follow exclusive presentations and people who care about their brand. For the next seven years, I want to work on consolidating the beauty of our brand and together with our team create more uncompromising qualities and beauties based on the same simple and pure DNA which has served us so well from the beginning. And finally, we will always stick to our main motto: Small is beautiful.

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VRIJEME JE ZA

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SURADNJE VELIKIH IGRAČA NIKADA NISU BILE TOLIKO I Z R A Ž E N E K AO DA N A S. PROIZVODI KOJI PROIZLAZE IZ TA K V I H KO L A B O R A C I J A K U P C I M A PRUŽAJU NEPRIKOSNOVENU K V A L I T E T U, A L I I J E D I N S T V E N U PRIČU. NAJNOVIJI PRIMJERI CO-BRANDINGA DOLAZE IZ U R A R S KO G I YA C H T I N G S V I J E TA

NA PI S A L A _ W O R D S: D UBR A VKA TO M E KOVIĆ A R A LICA FOTO G R A F I J E _ P H OTO S: PR O FIM ED IA , PR ESS

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nažni brendovi i njihovi osebujni vođe ne boje se suradnje sa sebi sličnima. Upravo suprotno, u vrijeme bespoštedne borbe za tržišne udjele i privlačenje pozornosti novih kupaca spajanje etabliranih brendova s kreativcima koji im donose novu energiju pokazuje se kao dobitna kombinacija. Kod nekih to rezultira golemim povećanjem prodaje, a drugi se pak limitiranim edicijama svjesno fokusiraju na ekskluzivnost.

Tako je Birkenstock, njemački proizvođač anatomske obuće koji postoji od 1774. godine, odlučio stilizirati svoj imidž i približiti se ljubiteljima trendova pa su angažirali osnivače američkog modnog brenda Proenza Schouler da im redizajniraju dva kultna modela ljetne obuće - sandale Arizona i Milano. Jack McCollough i Lazaro Hernandez zadržali su temeljne vrijednosti brenda Birkenstock, no novom modelu dali su i svoj autorski potpis. Kolekcija sandala dostupnih na 1774.com te u odabranim prodavaonicama izrađena je u srebrnoj, bijeloj, crnoj i oker boji od teleće kože kakvu u svojim kolekcijama koristi Proenza Schouler. Tradicija, bezvremenski dizajn i kvaliteta tako su se spojili s dizajnerskim umjetničkim pristupom, na zadovoljstvo kupaca i proizvođača.

S druge strane, modna kuća Tommy Hilfiger svoju je proljetnu kolekciju realizirala u suradnji s automobilističkim asom Lewisom Hamiltonom. Početkom godine u londonskom Tate Modernu promovirana je TommyXLewis capsule kolekcija za muškarce i žene, a cijela je revija bila prodajna. Cilj je bio promovirati

IT'S TIME FOR

Ključ uspjeha industrije luksuza?

A NDING

T H E C O L L A B O R AT I O N S O F T H E B I G P L AY E R S HAVE NEVER BEEN AS COMMON AS THEY ARE T O D A Y. T H E P R O D U C T S R E S U LT I N G F R O M S U C H C O L L A B O R AT I O N S O F F E R C U STO M E R S U N R I V A L L E D Q U A L I T Y, B U T A L S O A U N I Q U E S T O R Y. T H E L A T E S T E X A M P L E S O F C O - B R A N D I N G PA R T N E R S H I P C O M E F R O M T H E W ATC H M A K I N G A N D YA C H T I N G INDUSTRY | Orlebar Brown, IWC Schaffhausen i Solaris 55 jedre zajedno; Essential Purism, kolekcija koju je dizajnerica Victoria Beckham ostvarila u suradnji s Reebokom | Orlebar Brown, IWC Schaffhausen and Solaris 55 sailing together; Essential Purism is the collection that British designer Victoria Beckham created for Reebok

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KOD NEKIH SURADNJE REZULTIRAJU POVEĆANJEM PRODAJE, A DRUGI SE PAK LIMITIRANIM EDICIJAMA SVJESNO FOKUSIRAJU NA EKSKLUZIVNOST FOR SOME, COLABORATIONS RESULT IN AN INCREASE IN SALES, WHILE OTHERS CONSCIOUSLY FOCUS ON EXCLUSIVITY WITH LIMITED EDITIONS

vrijednosti brenda i novim generacijama skrenuti pozornost na važnost autentičnosti. Suradnja Reeboka i Victorije Beckham traje već nekoliko sezona.

Sportski brend, ponajprije poznat po kvalitetnim tenisicama, u vrijeme pandemije i povećane potrebe za ležernijom odjećom s britanskom dizajnericom elegantnih i seksepilnih modela kreirao je Essential Purism, kolekciju odjeće, tenisica i modnih dodataka. Izrađena od kvalitetnih pamučnih i svilenih materijala za sportske aktivnosti, ali i cjelodnevno nošenje, kombinacija je mode, minimalizma i sportske pragmatičnosti, a kupcima su osobito atraktivni dvodijelni modeli od hi-tech materijala sa zaštitom protiv UV zraka.

“Suradnja je zacrtana u našem imenu Maximilian Büsser & Friends”, kaže osnivač i vlasnik urarske manufakture koja je u vrijeme otkazivanja svih manifestacija za tradicionalno predstavljanje noviteta ove luksuzne struke ostvarila jedinstvenu poslovnu suradnju. S manufakturom H. Moser & Cie stvorili su ne jedan, nego dva modela sata. U toj razmjeni kreativnosti i vrhunskih vještina model MB&F LM 101 je, kažu, malo ‘mozeriziran’, a Moserov model Endeavour “dobio je injekciju MB&F-ovih gena”. Premda su tržišni konkurenti, ova dva brenda surađuju već desetak godina. Naime, Precision Engineering, Moserova sestrinska tvrtka, izrađuje opruge za satove MB&F, a još je važnije što su čelnici tih kompanija Maximilian Büsser i Edouard Meylan dobri prijatelji. Rezultat te ekskluzivne suradnje dvije su jedinstvene kolekcije satova. Tako je Moserova dvostruka opruga prvi put ugrađena u mehanizam MB&F-a, a njihova cilindrična opruga pak ugrađena je u H. Moser & Cie. Poigrali su se i prepoznatljivim bojama brojčanika. Po 15 primjeraka izrađeno je za obje kolekcije, i to u plavoj, crvenoj i zelenoj te svijetloplavoj boji - ekskluzivno za prodavača u Dubaiju. Cijena modela LM 101 je 53.000 CHF, a Endeavoura 79.000 CHF. Za kolekcionare to je vrhunski doživljaj.

No da suradnja može spojiti i tri brenda, dokaz su britanski modni brend Orlebar Brown, urarska manufaktura IWC iz Schaffhausena i Solaris Yachts.

Naime, švicarski urari i talijanski graditelj brodova partnerski su napravili posebnu jedrilicu Solaris 55 koja će najbolje odražavati duh i vizualni identitet kolekcije satova Portugieser. Jahta je nazvana Double Moon, prema legendarnom pokazivaču Mjesečevih mijena na perpetualnom kalendaru sata.

IWC-ov model Portugieser usko je povezan s navigacijom, a još krajem tridesetih godina prošlog stoljeća u manufakturi su izradili ručni sat s preciznošću nautičkog kronometra. Modeli iz te kolekcije spoj su elegantnog i sportskog, čistih su linija, baš kao i elegantne jahte Solaris koje se od 1970. izrađuju u brodogradilištu blizu Akvileje. U cijelu priču sportske elegancije i hedonizma uključio se i modni brend Orlebar Brown, britanski proizvođač muške resort odjeće. Njihova nova capsule kolekcija nastala je nakon što se biznismen Adam Brown vratio iz Radžastana s rođendanske proslave prijatelja na kojoj se okupilo poveće društvo. Kako je proslava uključivala više aktivnosti - od plivanja do elegantnih večera, shvatio je da većina muškaraca nema adekvatnu odjeću koja bi zadovoljila dress code cjelodnevnih aktivnosti u takvoj prigodi. Ni dvije godine kasnije izrađena je Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition Orlebar Brown, nova kolekcija muških sportskih i elegantnih komada s jamstvom trajnosti kvalitete od pet godina. Cijela modna kampanja snimljena je upravo na Solarisu 55.

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| Dizajner Tommy Hilfiger i as Formule 1 surađivali su na capsule kolekciji TommyXLewis | Fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger and F1 ace collaborated on a capsule collection TommyXLewis

Pred izazovima poslovnih suradnji različitih brendova pokleknuo je i talijanski proizvođač sunčanih naočala Persol. Prvi put u 50 godina s francuskom modnom kućom A.P.C. kreirali su tri varijacije Persolova modela 649, originalno rađenoga krajem pedesetih godina za vozače tramvaja u Torinu.

Legendarni talijanski glumac Marcello Mastroianni nosio ih je u filmu “Razvod na talijanski način”, a svijetlosmeđi, bijeli i zeleni model opet su hit, i to po cijeni od 370 dolara.

| Maximilian Büsser & Friends s manufakturom H. Moser & Cie stvorili su dvije kolekcije: model MB&F LM 101 je, kažu, “mozeriziran”, a Moserov model Endeavour “dobio je injekciju MB&F-ovih gena” | Maximilian Büsser & Friends and manufactory H. Moser & Cie created two watch collections - the MB&F LM 101 model is, they say, a bit 'mosernized', and Moser's Endeavor model 'got an injection of MB&F genes'

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owerful brands and their distinctive leaders are not afraid to collaborate with similar brands. On the contrary, in a time of relentless struggle for market shares and attracting the attention of new customers, merging of the established brands with the creative ones which bring them new energy is proving to be a winning combination. For some, this results in a huge increase in sales, while others consciously focus on exclusivity with limited editions. In such manner, Birkenstock, a German anatomically shaped footwear manufacturer, which exists since 1774, decided to stylize its image and get closer to trend lovers, so they hired the founders of the American fashion brand Proenza Schouler to redesign two iconic models of summer footwear - sandals Arizona and Milano. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez kept the core values of the Birkenstock brand, but also gave this new model their signature. The collection of sandals available on 1774.com and in selected stores is made in silver, white, black and ochre, and is rendered in polished, specchio calf leather used by Proenza Schouler in their collections. Tradition, timeless design and quality have thus merged with the designer artistic approach, to the satisfaction of customers and manufacturers.

On the other hand, fashion house Tommy Hilfiger made its spring collection in collaboration with F1 ace Lewis Hamilton. At the beginning of the year, TommyXLewis capsule collection for men and women was promoted at Tate Modern in London, and every piece of clothing was available for sale to the public at the end of the show. The goal was to promote brand values and draw the attention of new generations to the importance of authenticity. The collaboration between Reebok and Victoria Beckham has been going on for several seasons now. At the time of the pandemic and the increased need for more casual clothing, this sports brand, primarily known for quality sneakers, along with the British designer of elegant and sexy models, created Essential Purism, a collection of clothing, sneakers and fashion accessories. Made of quality cotton and silk materials for sports activities, but also for all-day wear, it is a combination of fashion, minimalism and sports pragmatism, and two-piece models made of hi-tech materials with UV protection are especially attractive to customers.

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| Maximilian Büsser i Edouard Meylan, prijatelji i suradnici na novim kolekcijama | Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan, friends and collaborators

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“The collaboration is already in our name Maximilian Büsser & Friends,” says the founder and owner of the watchmaking brand which achieved unique business collaboration at the time when all events for the traditional presentation of the novelties of this luxury profession were cancelled. With the manufactory H. Moser & Cie they created not one, but two new watch collections.

In that exchange of creativity and top skills, the MB&F LM 101 model is, they say, a bit 'moserized', and Moser's Endeavor model “got an injection of MB&F genes”. Although they are market competitors, these two brands have been cooperating for about ten years now. Namely, Precision Engineering, Moser's sister company, supplies hairsprings for MB&F watches, and more importantly, the leaders of these companies, Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan, are good friends. The results of this exclusive collaboration are two unique watch collections. Moser's double hairspring beats in MB & F for the first time, and for the first time in an H. Moser & Cie beats the MB & F’s cylindrical hairspring. They also played with the recognizable colours of the dials. Both versions are available in several dial colour versions- in blue, red and green, and light blue - exclusively for the seller in Dubai, and issued in 15-piece limited series. The price of the LM 101 is 53,000 CHF, and the Endeavour 79,000 CHF. For collectors, that is a top challenge.

| Birkenstock, njemački proizvođač anatomske obuće, odlučio je stilizirati svoj imidž suradnjom s modnim brendom Proenza Schouler | Birkenstock, a German anatomically shaped footwear manufacturer, decided to stylize its image by collaborating with a fashion brand Proenza Schouler

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| IWC-ov Yacht Club kronograf Portugieser i modna kolekcija Orlebar Brown | Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, Edition Orlebar Brown

But the British fashion brand Orlebar Brown, the watch manufacturer IWC from Schaffhausen and Solaris Yachts are proof that the collaboration can even unite three brands. Namely, the Swiss watchmakers and the Italian yacht manufacturer have partnered to create a special Solaris 55 sailboat that would best reflect the spirit and visual identity of the Portugieser watch collection.

The yacht was named Double Moon, after the legendary indicator of the Moon's phases on a watch with a perpetual calendar. IWC's Portugieser model is closely related to navigation, and back in the late 1930s, they made a wristwatch with the precision of a nautical chronometer. The models from that collection are a combination of elegant and sporty, with clean lines, just like the elegant Solaris yachts which have been made since 1970 in a shipyard near Aquileia. The fashion brand Orlebar Brown, a British manufacturer of men's resort wear clothing, also got involved in the whole story of sporty elegance and hedonism. Their new capsule collection was created after businessman Adam Brown returned from a holiday in Rajasthan, where his friend had a birthday party and gathered a larger group of people. As the celebration included more activities - from swimming to elegant dinners, he realized that most men do not have adequate clothing to meet the dress code of all-day activities on such an occasion.

Only two years later, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition Orlebar Brown was made, a new collection of men's sporty and elegant pieces with a five-year guarantee of durability. The entire fashion campaign was filmed on Solaris 55. The Italian manufacturer of sunglasses Persol also succumbed to the challenges of business collaborations between different brands. For the first time in 50 years they collaborated with the French fashion house A.P.C. and created three variations of the Persol model 649, originally made in the late 1950s for tram drivers in Turin. Legendary Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni wore them in the film “Divorce Italian Style”. Tthe light brown, white, and green models are a hit again, at a price of $ 370.

IDEALNA SURADNJA ZA BIZNISMENA NA ODMORU UKLJUČUJE NOVI SAT, NOVU JAHTU I NOVU MODNU KOLEKCIJU A PERFECT COLLABORATION FOR A BUSINESSMAN ON HOLIDAY INCLUDES A NEW WATCH, A NEW YACHT AND A NEW RESORT COLLECTION

PHOTOS: PREMANTURA (TZ ISTRA); VELI RAT (ALEKSANDAR GOSPIĆ); PASJAČA (ZORAN JELAČA)

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#ADRIALUXURY S JEDINSTVENA B2B KONFERENCIJA OKUPILA INDUSTRIJU LUKSUZA

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rojna svjetska istraživanja potvrđuju da je industrija luksuza posljednjih godina rasla brže nego ukupna privreda, a sigurno je da u tome Hrvatska može biti važan faktor. Situacija vezana uz koronavirus svakako će usporiti taj rast, no tržište luksuza tijekom povijesti se pokazalo otpornim na krize. Ipak, definicija luksuza se mijenja pa – osim skupih i lijepih predmeta ili luksuznog smještaja, što se smatra standardom – taj pojam danas podrazumijeva besprijekorno iskustvo, u kojem je vrijeme najveći luksuz, što je bio i zaključak prvog Adria Luxury Summita održanog na jesen 2019. godine. Zahvaljujući gostovanju istaknutih domaćih i inozemnih stručnjaka te poslovnih ljudi iz različitih industrija – turizma, tržišta luksuznih nekretnina, vinskog biznisa, IT-ja te industrije mode, ljepote i luksuznih pića, na ovoj se premium B2B konferenciji umrežila zajednica uspješnih pojedinaca i poslovne zajednice. U panel-razgovorima i dijeleći svoja poslovna iskustva, govornici su dali uvid u svijet iznimnih projekata, onih koji u Adria regiji donose trendove i u industriju luksuza. Stigla je i posebna gošća iz New Yorka – Tanya Golesic, CEO brenda Jimmy Choo, koja je u ekskluzivnom intervjuu okupljenima govorila o tome zašto često posjećuje Hrvatsku, o tehnološkim promjenama koje je uvela otkad je na čelu tog modnog brenda te o navikama i zahtjevima (online) kupaca.

“Jimmy Choo ima prepoznatljivu estetiku i kvalitetu, što potvrđuje da je proizvod najvažniji, no tržište se mijenja, kao i zahtjevi kupaca. Za razliku od prijašnjih godina, kad smo uglavnom govorili o modnim trendovima, danas sve više govorimo o društvenim trendovima u kontekstu mode koji će postati dio etike brenda te razlog iz kojeg će i nove, mlađe generacije investirati u određene brendove”, istaknula je Tanya Golesic. Želja organizatora Adria Luxury Summita, medijske kuće Adria Media Zagreb, bila je okupiti uspješne ljude i projekte koji mogu pridonijeti širenju poslovanja, utjecati na podizanje svijesti o važnosti projekata koji osnažuju industriju luksuza te, dakako, najaviti najnovije trendove o kojima će biti riječi na sljedećem Adria Luxury Summitu na jesen 2020. godine.

Više o događaju doznajte na www.adrialuxurysociety.com.

Y SUMMIT2019 A UNIQUE B2B CONFERENCE BROUGHT TOGETHER THE LUXURY INDUSTRY

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umerous world researches confirm that the luxury industry has grown faster than the overall economy in recent years, and according to what we have experienced so far, it is certain that Croatia can be an important factor in it. The coronavirus situation will certainly slow this growth down, but in the past the luxury market has proven to be crisis-resistant in the long run. However, the definition of luxury is changing, so - apart from expensive and beautiful items or luxury accommodation, which is considered a standard - this term today implies a flawless experience, considering time as the greatest luxury, which was also what they concluded at the first Adria Luxury Summit held in autumn 2019. Thanks to the guest appearances of prominent domestic and foreign experts and business people from various industries - tourism, luxury real estate, wine business, IT, fashion, beauty and luxury beverage industry, successful individuals and business communities networked at this premium B2B conference. In the panel discussions and through describing their real business experiences, the speakers provided an insight into the world of exceptional projects, those that also bring trends to the luxury industry in the Adria region. Tanya Golesic, CEO of the Jimmy Choo brand, arrived from New York as a special guest. In an exclusive interview, she spoke to the audience about the reasons she often visits Croatia, the technological changes she has introduced since becoming the head of the fashion brand and the habits and requirements of (online) customers.

“Jimmy Choo has a distinctive aesthetic and quality, which confirms that the product is the most important, but the market is changing, as well as customer requirements. Unlike previous years, when we mainly talked about fashion trends, today we are talking more and more about social trends in the context of fashion which will become part of the brand ethics and the reason why new, younger generations will invest in certain brands”, said Tanya Golesic.

The Adria Luxury Summit organizers, Adria Media Zagreb magazine publishing house, wanted to bring together successful people and projects that can contribute to business expansion, raise awareness of the importance of projects that strengthen the luxury industry and, of course, announce the latest trends which will be discussed at the next Adria Luxury Summit in autumn 2020.

Find out more about the event at www.adrialuxurysociety.com.

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

“ZADOVOLJSTVO U KOJEM ĆETE KRATKO UŽIVATI TO JE LUKSUZ”

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U M J E T N I K , F L O R I S T, K R E A T I V N I D I R E K T O R …

MNOGA SU LICA SAŠE ŠEKORANJE KOJI SVE ŠTO D O T A K N E U Č I N I J E D I N S T V E N I M . R E Z U LT A T J E T O G A I P R V A N A S L O V N I C A A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T YJ A KOJU OVAJ UMJETNIK POTPISUJE. S NAMA JE PODIJELIO SVOJE MALE RITUALE ZADOVOLJSTVA I ŠTO ZA NJEGA ZNAČI LUKSUZ R A Z G OV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: IZAB ELA VRTAR FOTO G R A FI JE_PHOTOGRAPHS : P RIVATNI ALB U M/P RIVATE ALB U M

| Kreativnost Saše Šekoranje ističe se u mnogim granama umjetnost - slikarstvu, ilustraciji i unutarnjem dizajnu, kao i dizajna cvijeća | The creativity of Saša Šekoranja is visible in many forms of art - painting, illustration, interior design, flower design...

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oja je ideja naslovnice prvog broja Adria Luxury So­cietyja?

Simbolika zlatnog lovorova vijenca učinila mi se prikladnom za tako luksuzan časopis - on predstavlja ono najbolje i najkvalitetnije. Sretan sam što sam imao priliku tu simboliku prenijeti na crtež i ovjenčati prvi broj magazina.

rijski prostor u kojem je cvijeće izloženo na postamentima. To uvijek izgleda moćno i raskošno. I sve će nestati za koji dan.

Zadovoljstvo u kojem ćete kratko uživati, to je luksuz.

Poznati ste ljubitelj putovanja, lijepih predmeta i umjetnosti. Kakva vas iskustva privlače u segmentu luksuza, a koja su danas prepoznata u svijetu?

Cvijeće je svuda oko nas, no kako iz njega nastaje luksuz?

Privlače me autentične stvari i iskrene osobe. One su najskuplje i rijetko se upoznaju.

Na putovanjima me oduševljava usluga – puno više nego interijer. Zapravo, vrhunska usluga danas je tako rijetka. Sve više volim obilaziti manja mjesta, primjerice, Somerset u Engleskoj gdje na području manjem od Istre možete birati luksuzne hotele, posjećivati svjetski poznate galerije kao što je Hauser & Wirth u Brutonu, uživati u restoranima ili kupovati u hipsterskim dućanima u Bathu. Obožavam slična mjesta u Francuskoj i Italiji – to su moje destinacije.

Luksuz je u neobičnom spoju divljeg i uzgojenog cvijeća koje koristim u buketima i instalacijama. Sve ovisi o kontekstu i interijeru u kojem će se cvijeće nalaziti. Svoju cvjećarnicu koncipirao sam kao čisti gale-

Kao dio kreativnog dvojca Studija Franić Šekoranja kreator ste interijera nekih boutique hotela u Hrvatskoj. Koja vam je misao vodilja u stvaranju takvog prostora?

Koju emociju gosta očekujete?

Vaša je estetika prepoznatljiva u svakom segmentu vašeg rada. Što je DNK vašeg brenda? Kako biste ga opisali?

Ovo je jedini način na koji znam raditi.

Mislim da sve počinje crtežom, pomalo nesigurnim i nemuštim, gotovo dječačkim.

Po tome sam prepoznatljiv, kao, vjerojatno, i po bojama koje koristim. U interijerima su to slojeviti spojevi modernih i klasičnih elemenata.

U hotel dolazite radi iskustva. Jako je važno da se u njemu osjećate ugodno, kao da ste kod kuće, no to nije dovoljno. U interijeru uvijek treba postojati neka vrsta potpisa, ekstravagancije koja vas neće ostaviti ravnodušnima. Takav ćete prostor pamtiti.

Može li se luksuz u interijeru postići ako imate ograničen budžet?

Za mene je luksuz atmosfera koju stvaram.

To nisu nužno skupi i potpisani predmeti nego autentičnost. Što je za vas luksuz?

Ne razmišljati o novcu i raditi ono što volim, a to su putovanja, kupnja antikviteta, obilazak galerija, život na selu u Istri...

Relevantni svjetski magazini o dizajnu interijera objavljuju vaše radove. Planirate li svoju estetiku predstaviti i izvan Hrvatske?

Ne planiram. Zasad imamo vrlo zanimljive projekte u Sloveniji, a vidjet ćemo hoće li se ukazati prilika i za druge zemlje.

Nisam lažno skroman – naravno da bih volio da se moj rad prepozna u Italiji, Francuskoj ili nekoj drugoj zemlji. Pitanje je bih li tamo mogao raditi na projektima ovako komotno kao u Zagrebu.

Koja je vizija vašeg brenda u budućnosti?

PRIVLAČE ME AUTENTIČNE STVARI I ISKRENE OSOBE. ONE SU NAJSKUPLJE I RIJETKO SE UPOZNAJU I AM ATTRACTED TO AUTHENTIC THINGS AND HONEST PEOPLE. THEY ARE THE MOST EXPENSIVE AND ARE RARELY COME ACROSS

I dalje sam ponajprije umjetnik, a puno manje biznismen. Kod mene se 99% svega događa spontano. Vidjet ćemo što će biti sutra. Možda se dogodi neka zanimljiva suradnja, možda osjetim potrebu raditi nešto potpuno drukčije... Važna je strast.

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‘A PLEASURE YOU WILL ENJOY ONLY FOR A SHORT TIME THAT IS A LUXURY’ A R T I S T, F L O R I S T, C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R , ETC. - THERE ARE MANY SIDES TO SAŠA ŠEKORANJA WHO MAKES EVERYTHING H E T O U C H E S U N I Q U E . T H E R E S U LT I S THE FIRST COVER OF THE ADRIA LUXURY S O C I E T Y W H I C H A L S O H A S A S I G N AT U R E O F T H I S A R T I S T. H E S H A R E D W I T H U S H I S L I T T L E R I T U A L S O F P L E A S U R E A N D W H AT LUXURY MEANS TO HIM

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hat was the idea behind the cover of the first issue of Adria Luxury Society?

The symbolism of the golden laurel wreath seemed appropriate to me for such a luxurious magazine - it represents something which is the best and of highest quality. I am happy I had the opportunity to transfer this symbolism into the drawing and crown the first issue of the magazine.

Your aesthetic is recognizable in every segment of your work. What is the DNA of your brand? How would you describe it?

This is the only way I know how to do things. I think it all starts with a drawing, a bit insecure and incoherent, almost boyish. I am recognizable by it, as probably also by the colours I use. In interiors, I am recognizable by layered combinations of modern and classic elements.

Flowers are all around us, but how do you make it a luxury?

Luxury is in the unusual combination of wild and cultivated flowers that I use in bouquets and installations. It all depends on the context and the interior the flowers will be put in. My flower shop has a concept of a pure gallery space in which flowers are displayed on pedestals. It always

looks powerful and lavish. And everything disappears in a couple of days. A pleasure you will enjoy only for a short time – that is a luxury.

You are known for your love for travel, beautiful objects and art. What experiences in the luxury segment, recognized in the world today, attract you?

I am attracted to authentic things and honest people. They are the most expensive and are rarely come across. When on trips, I get thrilled with the service - much more than the interior. In fact, superior service is so rare today. I prefer to visit smaller places, for example, Somerset in England where in an area smaller than Istria you can choose luxury hotels, visit world famous galleries such as Hauser & Wirth in Bruton, enjoy restaurants or shop in hipster shops in Bath etc. I love similar places in France and Italy - those are my destinations.

As part of the creative duo of the Studio Franić Šekoranja, you designed the interiors of some boutique hotels in Croatia.

What is your guiding principle in creating such a space? What is the emotion you expect from a guest?

You come to the hotel for the experience.

It is very important that you feel comfortable in it, as if you are at home, but that is not enough. There should always be some kind of signature in the interior, an extravagance that will not leave you indifferent.

You will remember such a space.

Can luxury interior be achieved if you have a limited budget?

For me, luxury is the atmosphere I create.

It is not necessarily about expensive and branded items, but authenticity.

What is a luxury for you?

Luxury is not thinking about money and doing what I love, which is traveling, buying antiques, visiting galleries, living in the countryside in Istria etc.

Top world magazines on interior design publish your works. Are you planning to present your aesthetics outside Croatia?

I’m not planning to. So far, we have had very interesting projects in Slovenia, and we will see if there opens an opportunity for working in other countries. I am not falsely modest - of course I would like my work to be recognized in Italy, France or some other country. The question is whether I could work on projects there as comfortably as in Zagreb.

What is your vision of the brand in the future?

I am still primarily an artist, and much less a businessman. For me, 99% of everything happens spontaneously. We’ll see what tomorrow brings. Maybe some interesting collaboration happens or maybe I get the need to do something completely different. Passion is all that matters.

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ADRIA LUXURY SUMMIT 2020 #people #business #experience #adrialuxurysociety ZAGREB • CROATIA 15/ 10/2020 BOOK YOUR SEAT

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