ALS_02-2020

GODINA 2020., BROJ 2 • ISSUE No.2

BUSINESS • PEOPLE • EXPERIENCE

navještenje BROJ 2

A N N U N C I AT I O N BY L OV R O ART U KOV I Ć

• ISSUE NO.2

CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES IN 2021 • BUSINESS STRATEGIES • PREMIUM EXPERIENCE

KRUŽNO KRUŽNO KRUŽNO GOSPODARSTVO GOSPODARSTVO GOSPODARSTVO

Hrvatska Hrvatska udruga Hrvatska udruga poslodavaca udruga poslodavaca poslodavaca i i i National National Geographic National Geographic Geographic Hrvatska Hrvatska predstavljaju: Hrvatska predstavljaju: predstavljaju:

Online Online konferenciju Online konferenciju konferenciju „Kružno „Kružno „Kružno gospodarstvo“ gospodarstvo“ gospodarstvo“ 24. studenoga 24. studenoga 24. 2020. studenoga 2020.

10 - 13.30 10 2020.

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Linearno –kružno 10.40vs. gospodarstvo Linearno kružno gospodarstvo vs. kružno gospodarstvo pokrenulipokrenuli časopis National časopis pokrenuli Geographic National časopis Geographic National HrvatskaGeographic Hrvatska 10.55 –Hrvatska 11.35 10.55Primjeri – 11.3510.55 dobre Primjeri – 11.35 prakse dobre Primjeri u Hrvatskoj prakse dobre u Hrvatskoj prakse u Hrvatskoj i tvrtka Adria i tvrtka Media Adria Zagreb, i tvrtka MediaAdria održat Zagreb, Media će održat se Zagreb, online će seodržat online će–se12.30 online 11.50 11.50Cirkularna – 12.3011.50 Cirkularna ekonomija – 12.30 ekonomija Cirkularna u kućanstvu ekonomija u kućanstvuu kućanstvu konferencija konferencija o kružnom konferencija o kružnom gospodarstvu ogospodarstvu kružnom u suradnji gospodarstvu u suradnji 12.50u–suradnji 13.30 12.50Klima, – 13.3012.50 energetika Klima, – 13.30 energetika i zaključci Klima, energetika i zaključci i zaključci s Hrvatskom s Hrvatskom udrugom s Hrvatskom udrugom poslodavaca, poslodavaca, udrugom na kojoj poslodavaca, će na kojoj će na kojoj će sudjelovati sudjelovati eminentni sudjelovati eminentni stručnjacistručnjaci eminentni i predstavnici i stručnjaci predstavnici i predstavnici tvrtki s iskustvom tvrtki s iskustvom u primjeni tvrtki s uiskustvom cirkularne primjeni cirkularne uekonomije primjeni ekonomije cirkularne ekonomije

P A R T N PE AR RI T N E PRAI R T N E R I

UVODNIK

STRATEGIJA RASTA: PREMIUM EXPERIENCE

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FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : ROB ERT GAŠP ERT

odina koja je na izmaku izazvala nas je na najneočekivanije moguće načine, a tržište luksuza, kao i većina drugih tržišta, doživjelo je težak udarac, posebice u mjesecima lockdowna. Neki od njegovih segmenata vratili su se u međuvremenu u igru, i to mnogo bolje nego što se isprva očekivalo, ali mnogi još traže načine kako se “saživjeti” s novim pravilima i mogućnostima kupaca i konzumenata.

Godina iza nas rapidno je ubrzala online prodaju i nove kanale komunikacije, a drastično smanjila mogućnost putovanja i doživljaja novih, premium iskustava izvan granica domicilnih država. Dok prodaja luksuznih proizvoda u Aziji doživljava novi procvat, tržišta Europe i Amerike bilježe pad.

Sudeći prema trendovima u 2020. godini, a pogotovo projekcijama za sljedeće razdoblje, premium proizvodi i usluge bit će u fokusu snažnije nego ikada prije. U vremenima krize sa smanjenom potrošnjom dolazi i veći oprez potrošača pa se njihovi odabiri polariziraju između jeftinijih proizvoda i onih vrhunske kvalitete. O tome govore naši sugovornici u ovom broju – od ekonomskih analitičara preko vodećih menadžera regionalnih korporacija do snažnih kreativaca – i svaki od njih vjeruje u viziju podizanja kvalitete kao ključne odrednice na putu prema oporavku. U nadolazećem razdoblju razliku kod kupaca i korisnika činit će kvaliteta i unique experience, ono što luxury segment ima u svojem DNK. To su bile ključne poruke i ovogodišnjeg Adria Luxury Summita koji smo drugi put organizirali u zagrebačkom hotelu Esplanade. Na summitu smo okupili opinion makere iz regije koji su prezentirali relevantne informacije kroz primjere i strategiju poslovanja na temu premium usluga i proizvoda te otvorili pitanja daljnjeg razvoja regije u smjeru luksuza. Svi paneli dostupni su na platformi www.adrialuxurysociety.com te donose uvid u trenutačno stanje tržišta i očekivanja u sljedećem razdoblju, kao i iskustva u brendiranju te stvaranju vrhunske, jedinstvene ponude.

Uz Adria Luxury Summit i sadržaj koji donosimo u ovom broju magazina, želja nam je osnažiti i podržati regionalne aktere u segmentu luksuznih usluga i vrhunskih proizvoda te pokazati svijetle primjere promjene i napretka unatoč krizi, predstaviti mindset biznis lidera i kreativaca koji će u sljedećem razdoblju biti ključan za pokretanje ekonomije i nove, premium ponude u regiji i šire.

Dobro došli u drugi broj Adria Luxury Societyja!

Izabela Vrtar, glavna urednica Adria Luxury Society

OD EKONOMSKIH ANALITIČARA PREKO VODEĆIH MENADŽERA REGIONALNIH KORPORACIJA DO SNAŽNIH KREATIVACA U OVOM BROJU – SVAKI OD NJIH VJERUJE U VIZIJU PODIZANJA KVALITETE KAO KLJUČNE ODREDNICE NA PUTU PREMA OPORAVKU

P ra t i t e n a s n a a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y.c o m t e n a I G @ a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

EDITOR’S LETTER

GROWTH STRATEGY: PREMIUM EXPERIENCE

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he year that is coming to an end challenged us in the most unexpected ways possible, and the luxury market, like most other markets, suffered a heavy blow, especially in the months of lockdown. Some of its segments have got back on track in the meantime, much better than initially expected, but many are still looking for ways to come to terms with the new rules and opportunities for customers and consumers. The year behind us has rapidly accelerated online sales and new channels of communication, and drastically reduced the ability to travel and experience new, premium experiences beyond the borders of our own countries. While sales of luxury products in Asia are experiencing a new boom, the markets of Europe and America are declining.

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RANGING FROM ECONOMIC ANALYSTS AND LEADING MANAGERS OF REGIONAL CORPORATIONS TO CREATIVE INDIVIDUALS IN THIS ISSUE - EACH OF THEM BELIEVES IN THE VISION OF RAISING QUALITY AS A KEY DETERMINANT ON THE ROAD TO RECOVERY

Judging by the trends in 2020, and especially the projections for the next period, premium products and services will be in focus stronger than ever before. In times of crisis with reduced consumption, consumers are more cautious, so their choices are polarized between cheaper products and those of the highest quality. The latter was the topic we discussed in this issue with our interlocutors – ranging from economic analysts and leading managers of regional corporations to creative individuals - and each of them believes in the vision of raising quality as a key determinant on the road to recovery. In the coming period, the difference between customers and users will be the quality and unique experience, the very thing that the luxury segment has in its DNA. These were also the key messages of this year’s Adria Luxury Summit, which we organized for the second time at the Esplanade Hotel in Zagreb. At the summit, we gathered opinion makers from the region who presented relevant information through different examples and their business strategy regarding premium services and products and opened questions of further development of the region in the direction of luxury. All panels are available on the platform www.adrialuxurysociety.com and give insight into the current state of the market and expectations for the next period, as well as experience in branding and creating a top, unique offer.

With the Adria Luxury Summit and the content we present in this issue of the magazine we wish to strengthen and support partakers in the segment of luxury services and premium products from the region and show bright examples of change and progress despite the crisis, and also to present the mindset of business leaders and creative individuals which will be key to boosting the economy and new, premium offerings in the region and beyond.

Welcome to the second issue of Adria Luxury Society!

Izabela Vrtar Editor-in-Chief Adria Luxury Society

Fo l l o w u s o n a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y.c o m a n d o n I G @ a d r i a l u x u r y s o c i e t y

SADRŽAJ CONTENT IMPRESSUM

GL A V NA UREDNICA_ EDITOR- IN- CHIEF

I ZA BE L A V RTA R i .v r t a r @ a d ria media . hr UR E DNIŠTVO_ EDITORS

M A RT I N A R A FA EL I DA N I JE LA PET R OV GR A FIČK I UREDNIK_ ART DIRECTOR

M A R I O C E L IN ŠČA K STR ATE ŠK A SURADNICA I KOORDINATORICA PROJEK TA STR ATE GIC ASSOCIAT E AN D PROJECT COORDIN ATO R

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| NOVOSTI_NEWS

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| V IZIJ A_V IS ION Izazovi i prilike 2021. | Challenges and Opportunities in 2021

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| MODA_FAS HION Što je ključno za tržišni oporavak | What is necessary for survival in the market

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW NENAD NIZIĆ: Stay Small, Think Big

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| STRATEGIJ A_STRATEGY NIKOLA ŽINIĆ: Kriza je samo promjena | The crisis is just a change

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW IVAN KOVAČIĆ: “Moramo se okrenuti master projektima” | We need to turn to master projects

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| LJ EPOTA_B EAUTY Kakvo je stanje na beauty tržištu Hrvatske i svijeta | The situation on the beauty market in Croatia and the world

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW IDIS TURATO: “Čovjek svakodnevno mora projektirati, misliti, kreirati nove narative bez obzira na struku kojom se bavi” | “One has to design, think and create new narratives every day, regardless of the profession”

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW DR. MORGAINE GAYE: Svjetski priznata futurologinja o trendovima budućnosti | A world-renowned futurologist on future trends

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| S ATOV I I NAKIT_WATCHES A ND JEW EL ERY Nova tradicija | New Tradition

| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW MARIJA DESIVOJEVIĆ CVETKOVIĆ: Sve je moguće | Anything is possible

DUBR A V K A TO M E KOVIĆ A R A L ICA FOTOGR A F IJE I ILUST RACIJE PHOTOS AN D ILLUST RAT ION S

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M I R E LA ČE ŠKIĆ L E K TU R A_ PROOF READING

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW MAXIMILIAN RIEDEL: Strast u čaši | A glass of passion

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| AUTOMOB ILI_AUTOMOB ILE Dvije vizije budućnosti | Two visions of the future

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW MAJA BRUČIĆ: Projekt - jedinstveni experience | Project - unique experience

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| INTERVJ U_INTERV IEW LOVRO ARTUKOVIĆ: “Stvarno umjetničko djelo mogu doživjeti samo u realnosti” | “I can only experience a real work of art in real life”

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

LVMH U NEKIM SEGMENTIMA IZNAD OČEKIVANJA LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, vodeća svjetska luksuzna grupa, u nedavnom je izvješću navela da su u prvih devet mjeseci 2020. ostvarili 30,3 milijarde eura prihoda uz pad od 21 posto, uspoređujući prihode s onima u istom razdoblju 2019. godine. U izvješću se ističe da grupa od početka godine uspješno posluje usprkos krizi koja je zahvatila brojne grane poslovanja. Zanimljiv je podatak da u trećem kvartalu bilježe pad prihoda od 7 posto te znatan porast u prodaji konjaka, modnih i predmeta od kože zahvaljujući pokretanju prodaje u SAD-u i Japanu. Pozitivan se rast bilježi i u šampanjskom poslovanju te prodaji jakih pića. U svijetu mode Louis Vuitton ističe se po odličnim rezultatima zahvaljujući kreativnosti u svim segmentima, od proizvoda do originalnih formata revija i predstavljanja te komunikacije s klijentima.

Slični se rezultati odnose i na poslovanje kuće Christian Dior te brendova koji bilježe pojačanu aktivnost u trećem kvartalu - Fendi, Loewe i Bernard Arnault, Celine. Divizija mirisa i kozmetike bilježi pad od 25 CEO LVMH posto, ali se ističe kako najjači brendovi pokazuju konstantno dobre rezultate, što zahvaljuju i globalnoj potražnji za skincare linijama proizvoda. Kategorija nakita i satova bilježi pad od 30 posto, ali to nije zaustavilo lansiranje nove kolekcije nakita Barocko za Bvlgari, sudjelovanje u manifestaciji Geneva Watch Days te obilježavanje 160 godina TAG Heuera plasiranjem novog modela sata iz linije Carrera. Svim svojim aktivnostima grupa aktivno nastoji očuvati vrijednosti LVMH brenda vođena idejom održavanja pozicije svjetskog lidera na tržištu luksuza u izazovnoj 2020. godini.

USPOREDBA DIVOVA THE COMPARISON OF LUXURY GOODS GIANTS

LVMH ABOVE EXPECTATIONS IN CERTAIN SEGMENTS

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LVMH Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton, the world leader in luxury products, indicated in a recent report that they generated revenue of € 30.3 billion in the first nine months of 2020 with a 21 percent drop, compared to revenue for the same period in 2019. The report points out that since the beginning of the year, the group has been operating successfully regardless of the crisis that has affected many industries. It is interesting to note that in the third quarter they recorded a decline in revenue of 7 percent, and a significant increase in sales of cognac, fashion and leather goods, thanks to the launch of sales in the USA and Japan. Positive growth was also recorded in the champagne business and the sale of spirits. In the world of fashion, Louis Vuitton stands out for its excellent results thanks to creativity in all segments, from products, original fashion shows and presentation formats to communication with clients.

Similar results apply to the business operations of Christian Dior and brands which recorded increased activity in the third quarter - Fendi, Loewe and Celine. The fragrance and cosmetics division recorded a drop of 25 percent, but it is pointed out that the strongest brands show consistently good results, which is also thanks to the global demand for skincare product lines. The jewellery and watch category dropped by 30 percent, but that did not stop the launching a new Barocko jewellery collection for Bvlgari, the holding of the Geneva Watch Days, and marking 160 years of TAG Heuer by launching a new watch model from the Carrera line. Through all their activities, the group actively seeks to preserve the values of the LVMH brand with the idea of maintaining its position as a world leader in the luxury market in the challenging year 2020.

Luis Vuitton, Spring/ Summer 2021.

NEWS

KERING BILJEŽI USPJEH U TREĆEM KVARTALU U izvješću o poslovanju u prvih devet mjeseci 2020. François-Henri Pinault, predsjednik i glavni izvršni direktor francuske luksuzne grupe Kering, istaknuo je: “U izazovnom okruženju Kering je u trećem tromjesečju postigao značajan oporavak prihoda. Kreativnost svake naše kuće i okretnost naše tvrtke doveli su do naglog skoka prodaje, gotovo podudarajući se s rezultatima iz trećeg tromjesečja 2019. godine. Odlučni u provođenju naših strateških inicijativa, internalizacija naših aktivnosti e-trgovine dosegnula je druge ključne prekretnice te nastavljamo jačati rast naše platforme. Uz solidnu financijsku situaciju, koja je nedavno dodatno ojačana, nastavljamo ulagati u naše kuće kako bismo pospješili njihovu ekskluzivnost i tako ojačali François-Henri Pinault, naše pozicije. Usprkos neizvjesnosti, dobro smo CEO Kering pripremljeni i sigurni u našu sposobnost postizanja dobrih rezultata." Uspjehu trećeg kvartala snažno je pridonio porast prodaje u Sjevernoj Americi od čak 44,1 posto, Aziji od 18,5 posto, a brojke vezane uz poslovanje u zapadnoj Europi pokazuju pad od 41 posto te u Japanu od 22,8 posto. Online prodaja ističe se snažnim rastom od čak 101,9 posto s naglaskom na tržište Sjeverne Amerike te azijsko-pacifičke regije. Ukupan prihod u trećem kvartalu manji je za procijenjenih 4,3 posto u odnosu na onaj u istom razdoblju 2019., što se u novim okolnostima smatra uspjehom iza kojeg se posebno ističe Gucci, čija se prodaja pokazala iznimno uspješnom otvaranjem prodajnih mjesta diljem svijeta. Rezultatima ga slijede Saint Laurent i Bottega Veneta.

KERING RECORDED SUCCESS IN THE THIRD QUARTER In a business report for the first nine months of 2020, François-Henri Pinault, President and CEO of the French luxury group Kering, noted: “In a challenging environment, Kering achieved a significant revenue recovery in the third quarter. The creativity of each of our maisons and the agility of our company have led to a sharp increase in sales, almost matching the results of the third quarter of 2019. Being determined to implement our strategic initiatives, the internalization of our e-commerce activities reached other key turning points and we continue to intensify the growth of our platform. With a solid financial situation, which has recently been further strengthened, we continue to invest in our maisons to become even more exclusive and thus strengthen our position. Despite the uncertainty, we are well prepared and confident in our ability to deliver good results.” The success of the third quarter was strongly contributed by sales growth in North America of as much as 44.1 percent and 18.5 percent in Asia, whereas the figures in Western Europe fell by 41 percent and 22.8 percent in Japan. Online sales stand out with strong growth of as much as 101.9 percent with a focus on the North American and Asia-Pacific markets. Total revenue in the third quarter was 4.3 percent lower compared to the revenue for the same period in 2019, which is, in new circumstances, considered a success, especially for Gucci, whose sales proved to be extremely successful when the stores opened around the world. Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta follow the same trend.

Gucci, Spring/ Summer 2021.

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

ZLATNA ŠUMA Svjetsko tržište mirisnih svijeća do 2025. dosegnut će vrijednost od 545 milijuna dolara i godišnje će rasti 8,4 posto. Svoje predviđanje Grand View Research Inc temelji na sve većoj potražnji za mirisnim svijećama namijenjenim za različite terapeutske svrhe te relaksaciju u kućnom ambijentu. Osobito je u porastu trend njihova darivanja u posebnim prigodama, a božićni blagdani na prvom su mjestu. Jednu od najljepših božićnih bajki, svijeću Noel, još devedesetih godina kreirale su Francuskinje Annick Goutal i Isabelle Doyen, a jedan od najpoželjnijih proizvoda Maison Goutal sada ima novo ruho i zove se Une Forêt d’Or. Miriše na šumu, borove iglice, vatru iz kamina, mandarine i gorke naranče te donosi svježinu pahulja u zraku.

GOLDEN FOREST Scented candles market size is expected to grow at the annual compound rate of 8,4 % and to reach USD 545 million by 2025. According to a new report by Grand View Research Inc, there is a huge market demand of scented candles in various therapeutic procedures and also in domestic relaxation. Gifting scented candles on celebratory occasions is highly appreciated, and Christmas time is on the top.

One of the most beautiful Christmas fairy tales, the Noel candle, has been created by French ladies Annick Goutal and Isabelle Doyen in mid-nineties. This highly desired product of Maison Goutal has a new packaging, named Golden Forest and smells like pine wood, fire place, bitter oranges, mandarins and the freshness of snowflakes.

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WELLNESS TEHNOLOGIJA I PRIRODNI RITUALI U SAVRŠENOJ KOMBINACIJI Prestižni World Spa Awards™, etablirana globalna organizacija čiji je cilj promicanje i nagrađivanje kvalitete u spa i wellness industriji, proglasio je Spa Clinic hotela Bellevue 5 * na otoku Lošinju Croatia’s Best Hotel Spa za 2020. godinu. Pokrenut 2015. godine, ovaj godišnji program nagrada nastao je kao sestrinski događaj World Travel Awardsu™, koji nagrađuje izvrsnost te potiče rast i inovacije u turizmu. “Iznimno smo ponosni što smo osvojili nagradu Croatia’s Best Hotel Spa na ovogodišnjem World Spa Awardsu. Lošinj krasi izniman i prirodno ljekovit okoliš, a mi smo nastojali postići sklad znanosti beauty segmenta, wellness tehnologije i učinkovitih prirodnih rituala kako bismo stvorili savršenu kombinaciju. No sve to ne bi bilo ostvarivo bez truda i rada našeg predanog tima. Željela bih zahvaliti i našim gostima na podršci, počašćeni smo što su nas mnogi prepoznali i glasali za nas”, rekla je Melissa Mettler, direktorica Spa i wellnessa za Lošinj Hotels & Villas, hotelski brend koji upravlja hotelom Bellevue.

WELLNESS TECHNOLOGY AND NATURAL RITUALS IN PERFECT COMBINATION The five-star Bellevue hotel Spa Clinic on the island of Lošinj has been named “Croatia’s Best Hotel Spa” for 2020 by the prestigious World Spa Awards™, an established global organization whose main goal is to promote and reward quality in the spa and wellness industry. Launched in 2015, this annual awards program was created as a sister event to the World Travel Awards™, which rewards excellence and fosters growth and innovation in tourism. “We are extremely proud to have won the ‘Croatia’s Best Hotel Spa’ award at this year’s World Spa Awards! Lošinj has an exceptional and natural healing environment, and we have strived to achieve the harmony of the science of the beauty segment, wellness technology and effective natural rituals in order to create the perfect combination. But all this would not have been possible without the effort and work of our dedicated team. Also, I would like to thank our guests for their support and we are honoured that many recognized us and voted for us”, said Melissa Mettler, director of Spa and Wellness for Lošinj Hotels & Villas, the hotel brand that manages the Bellevue Hotel.

NEWS

ZASJATI ZAJEDNO Draguljarska kuća Chopard punim je sjajem zasjala u filmu “Rebecca” redatelja Bena Wheatleyja, koji se prikazuje na Netflixu, s Lily James, Kelly Hewes i Armiejem Hammerom u glavnim ulogama. Fantastične kreacije ogrlica, naušnica i prstenja iz kolekcija Temptations i Red Carpet bliješte u mnogim scenama, što filmu daje rijetko viđenu autentičnost. S druge strane, umjetnička suradnja s filmskom industrijom kući Chopard pružila je priliku da potvrdi svoju dugogodišnju naklonost filmu.

SHINE TOGETHER Maison Chopard lights up the screen in Ben Wheatley’s film Rebecca, available at Netflix, starring Lily James, Keeley Hawes and Armie Hammer. Stunning jewellery creations, parts of Temptations Collection and a Red Carpet Collection, appear and shine in many scenes of Rebecca, giving them a rare unique authenticity. On the other hand, artistic collaboration with the film industry gives the Maison Chopard an opportunity to reaffirm its long-time love for cinema.

LA GRANDE DAME IMA NOVO LICE Prošle se godine pojam prestiža opisivao posjetom izložbi slavne umjetnice Yayoi Kusama u nekoj od top-galerija u New Yorku. Ove se godine u radu ove ikone moderne umjetnosti, poznate po motivima točkica i cvijeća, uživa kroz suradnju sa slavnom šampanjskom kućom Veuve Clicquot. Projekt “My Heart That Blooms in The Darkness of The Night” odnosi se na limitiranu ediciju od 100 boca La Grande Dame 2012 “odjevenih” u skulpturalnu poklon-kutiju, djelo slavne Kusame. U francuskoj šampanjskoj kući, koja snažno podržava originalnu umjetnost, kolaboraciju su opisali riječima: “Raskošni cvijet originalna je kreacija koja simbolizira vitalnu energiju, ljubav i proslavu života.” Istaknuli su i zadovoljstvo zbog nastavka suradnje koja je započela 2006., kada je umjetnica koristeći točke preoblikovala portret slavne Madame Clicquot za dobrotvornu aukciju u Tokiju.

THE NEW FACE O LA GRANDE DAME Last year, the idea of prestige was visiting the exhibitions of the famous artist Yayoi Kusama in one of the top galleries in New York. This year, we enjoy the works of this icon of modern art, known for her motifs of dots and flowers, in the collaboration with the famous champagne house Veuve Clicquot. The project named “My Heart That Blooms in The Darkness of The Night” refers to a limited edition of 100 bottles of La Grande Dame 2012, in a gift box with a twisting floral sculpture, the work of the famous artist Kusama. The French champagne house, which strongly supports original art, described the collaboration with the following words: “This opulent flower is an original creation that symbolizes vital energy, love and celebration of life.”, emphasizing the satisfaction with continuing the collaboration which began in 2006 when the artist had already played with her famous polka dots by revivifying the original portrait of Madame Clicquot for a charity auction in Tokyo.

#ADRIALUXURY SUMMIT2020 ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

GOING PREMIUM

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DRUGU GODINU ZAREDOM, NA JEDINSTVENOJ B2B KONFERENCIJI ADRIA LUXURY S U M M I T U Z A G R E B U, O K U P I L I S U S E L I D E R I I O P I N I O N M A K E R I I Z S V I J E TA B I Z N I S A I LUKSUZA . PREMIUM PROIZVODI I USLUGE, SLOŽILI SU SE SUDIONICI, BIT ĆE KLJUČNI ZA B R Ž I O P O R A V A K T R Ž I ŠTA N A KO N K R I Z E . PA N E L E O V O G O D I Š N J E G S U M M I TA O D R Ž A N O G U H O T E L U E S P L A N A D E P O G L E D A J T E N A A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T Y. C O M

IN CRISIS TIME

| Ivana Krajinović, članica Uprave Adria Medije Zagreb | Ivana Krajinović, Member of the Management Board at Adria Media Zagreb

13 | Veljko Marton, kolekcionar i vlasnik Martimexa | Veljko Marton, a collector and the owner of Martimex

F O R T H E S E C O N D Y E A R I N A R O W, L E A D E R S A N D O P I N I O N M A K E R S F R O M T H E W O R L D O F B U S I N E S S A N D L U X U RY G AT H E R E D AT T H E U N I Q U E B 2 B C O N F E R E N C E A D R I A L U X U RY S U M M I T I N Z A G R E B . P R E M I U M P R O D U C TS A N D S E R V I C E S, A S A L L PA R T I C I PA N TS A G R E E , W I L L B E K E Y TO FA ST E R R E C O V E RY O F T H E M A R K E T A F T E R T H E C R I S I S . C H E C K O U T T H E PA N E L D I S C U S S I O N S O F T H I S Y E A R ’ S S U M M I T, H E L D A T T H E E S P L A N A D E H O T E L , A T A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T Y. C O M NA PI SA L A_ W O R DS: M A RT IN A R A FA EL I

FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOGRAPHS : DRAŽEN KOKORIĆ, ROB E RT G A Š PERT

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

KLJUČNI SU BILI ODGOVORI NA PITANJA O BUDUĆIM INVESTICIJAMA TE PROJEKCIJAMA RASTA I RAZVOJA UNATOČ KRIZI

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remium regionalna B2B konferencija Adria Luxury Summit, u organizaciji medijske kuće Adria Media Zagreb i platforme Adria Luxury Society, drugi je put okupila regionalne lidere u segmentu luxury industrije i biznisa. U hotelu Esplanade Zagreb 12. studenoga, uz limitirani broj sudionika i u skladu s epidemiološkim mjerama, okupili su se predstavnici regionalnih tvrtki kako bi zanimljivim panelima kroz poslovne primjere pružili odgovore na pitanja o budućim investicijama te projekcijama rasta i razvoja. Velike promjene i vizija budućnosti bili su u fokusu ovogodišnjih tema i panela summita koji je otvorila Ivana Krajinović, članica Uprave Adria Medije Zagreb. Na panelu “Going Premium in Crisis Time”, u kojem su govornici bili Marija Desivojević Cvetković, potpredsjednica Delta Holdinga, Matija Ražem, potpredsjednik tvrtke Infobip, te Iva Rogović Lekić iz brokerske kuće Marsh, govorilo se o budućnosti i strateškim odlukama koje su nužne u razdoblju nakon bolesti COVID-19. Na panelu “Luxury Investment” o važnosti ulaganja u kulturu kao odrazu osviještenog društva svoje iskustvo podijelili su Veljko Marton, kolekcionar i vlasnik Martimexa, Ivan Kovačić, izvršni direktor Remington Realtyja, i Branko Franceschi, ravnatelj Moderne galerije u Zagrebu. Na temu “Reinvention / New brand approach” dizajneri Marko Šesnić i Goran Turković, art direktor Nikola Žinić i poduzetnik Robert Bajs podijelili su svoje viđenje stanja na tržištu i brendinga luksuznih proizvoda. U videopanelu o smjeru razvoja luksuznih destinacija govorili su Maja Bručić, vlasnica arhitektonskog studija Lotus Architecti, Branko Šupuk, glavni urednik magazina Yachts Croatia, te Ivan Gajić, sales director hotela Regent Porto Montenegro.

Posljednji u nizu zanimljivih panela bio je masterclass arhitekta Idisa Turata s kojim je o stvaranju jedinstvene priče i identiteta, posebice u segmentu luksuza, razgovarala Izabela Vrtar, glavna urednica magazina Adria Luxury Society. Glavni partner događaja koji je okupio opinion makere i kreativce iz segmenta luksuza bio je Porsche Inter Auto. Sudionici su imali priliku vidjeti Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid, koji je bio izložen na terasi Oleandar hotela Esplanade, te se prijaviti za probnu vožnju. Riječ je o plug-in hibridnom modelu koji povezuje performansu sportskog vozila s komforom ekskluzivne limuzine. Unatoč godini koju je obilježila pandemija, sugovornici i gosti Adria Luxury Summita složili su se kako će luksuzna ponuda regije te razvoj u tom smjeru biti snažan pokretač ekonomije u godinama koje dolaze. Potvrdili su to svojim iskustvom i planovima za razvoj o kojima će biti riječi na sljedećem summitu 2021. godine.

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1 | Ivan Kovačić iz Remington Realtyja | Ivan Kovačić, Executive Director at Remington Realty 2 | Moderatorica Adria Luxury Summita bila je Barbara Kolar | Barbara Kolar, the moderator of the Adria Luxury Summit 3 | Masterclass s arhitektom Idisom Turatom vodila je Izabela Vrtar, glavna urednica magazina Adria Luxury Society | The masterclass with architect Idis Turato was led by Izabela Vrtar, Editorin-Chief of Adria Luxury Society magazine 4 | Aleksandra Golubović, Senior Corporate Sales Executive u Adria Mediji i Zrinka Jelić Belinić, Senior Marketing Manager u Miva galeriji vina | Aleksandra Golubović, Senior Corporate Sales Executive at Adria Media and Zrinka Jelić Belinić, Senior Marketing Manager at Miva Wine Gallery 5 | Dean Pavlak, član Uprave tvrtke Consilio s Idisom Turatom i Ivanom Kovačićem | Dean Pavlak, Member of the Management Board at Consilio with Idis Turato and Ivan Kovačić 6 | Goran Turković, Nikola Žinić, Barbara Kolar, Marko Šesnić i Robert Bajs nakon panela o brandingu | Goran Turković, Nikola Žinić, Barbara Kolar, Marko Šesnić and Robert Bajs after the panel on branding

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VIDEOSADRŽAJ SA 2. ADRIA LUXURY SUMMITA DOSTUPAN JE NA WEB STRANICI www.adrialuxurysociety.com

1 | Iva Rogović Lekić, predsjednica Uprave Marsh Hrvatska s kolegicom Livijom Vojković ispred novog Porschea Panamera E-Hybrida | Iva Rogović Lekić, President of the Management Board of Marsh Croatia with her colleague Livija Vojković in front of the new Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid 2 | Blanka Šimundža Anušić, voditeljica B2B/ custom publishing odjela | Blanka Šimundža Anušić, Head of B2B/ Custom Publishing Department at Adria Media Zagreb

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3 | U videopanelu o smjeru razvoja luksuznih destinacija govorili su Maja Bručić, vlasnica arhitektonskog studija Lotus Architecti, Branko Šupuk, glavni urednik magazina Yachts Croatia, te Ivan Gajić, sales director hotela Regent Porto Montenegro | Maja Bručić, CEO and founder of Lotus Architecti, Branko Šupuk, editorin-chief of Yachts Croatia magazine, and Ivan Gajić, Director of Sales at Regent Porto Montenegro, talked about the direction of development of luxury destinations in the video panel

4 | Ivana Krajinović, članica Uprave Adria Medije Zagreb, Izabela Vrtar, glavna urednica magazina Adria Luxury Society i arhitekt Idis Turato | Ivana Krajinović, Member of the Management Board at Adria Media Zagreb, Izabela Vrtar, Editor-in-Chief of Adria Luxury Society magazine and architect Idis Turato 5 | Matija Ražem, potpredsjednik IT tvrtke Infobip | Matija Ražem, VP Business Development at Infobip 6 | Glavni partner Adria Luxury Summita, Porsche Inter Auto, uzvanicima je predstavio Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid koji povezuje performansu sportskog vozila s komforom ekskluzivne limuzine | The main partner of the Adria Luxury Summit, Porsche Inter Auto, presented the Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid that combines the performance of a sports vehicle with the comfort of an exclusive sedan

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THE PANELISTS PROVIDED ANSWERS TO KEY QUESTIONS ABOUT FUTURE INVESTMENTS AND GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT PROJECTIONS DESPITE THE CRISIS

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he premium regional B2B conference Adria Luxury Summit, organized for the second time by the media house Adria Media Zagreb and the platform Adria Luxury Society, gathered regional leaders in the segment of luxury industry and business. On November 12, with a limited number of participants and in compliance with epidemiological measures, representatives of regional companies met at the Esplanade Hotel Zagreb to provide answers to questions about future investments and projections on growth and development in interesting panel discussions. Major changes and vision of the future were the focus of this year’s topics and panel discussions of the summit opened by Ivana Krajinović, Member of the Management Board at Adria Media Zagreb. In the panel discussion “Going Premium in a Time of Crisis”, the speakers Marija Desivojević Cvetković, Vice President of Delta Holding, Matija Ražem, Vice President of Infobip, and Iva Rogović Lekić, CEO at Marsh Croatia, talked about the future and strategic decisions necessary in the period after COVID-19. Veljko Marton, art collector and the owner of Martimex, Ivan Kovačić, the CEO at Remington Realty, and Branko Franceschi, the director of the Modern Gallery in Zagreb, shared their experiences in the ‘Luxury Investment’ panel discussion on the importance of investing in culture as a reflection of the consciousness of a society. In a discussion topic ‘Reinvention / New brand approach’, designers Marko Šesnić and Goran Turković, art director Nikola Žinić and entrepreneur Robert Bajs shared their views on the situation in the market and on branding of luxury products. Maja Bručić, CEO and founder of Lotus Architecti, Branko Šupuk, editor-in-chief of Yachts Croatia magazine, and Ivan Gajić, Director of Sales at Regent Porto Montenegro, talked about the direction of development of luxury destinations in the video panel.

The last one in a series of interesting panel discussions was the masterclass with architect Idis Turato, led by Izabela Vrtar, Editor-in-Chief of Adria Luxury Society magazine, in which they talked about creating a unique story and identity, especially in the luxury segment.

The main partner of the event, which brought together opinion makers and creative individuals from the luxury segment, was Porsche Croatia. Participants had the opportunity to see the Porsche Panamera E-Hybrid, which was on display on the Oleander terrace of the Esplanade Hotel, and sign up for a test drive. This plug-in hybrid model combines the performance of a sports vehicle with the comfort of an exclusive sedan.

Despite the year marked by the pandemic, the interlocutors and guests of the Adria Luxury Summit agreed that the luxury offer of the region and development in that direction will be a strong driver of the economy in the years to come. They confirmed it when talking about their experiences and development plans, which will be further discussed at the next summit in 2021. Video content from the 2nd Adria Luxury Summit is available at www.adrialuxurysociety.com.

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| Panel ‘Luxury Investments’ donio je iskustvo i viđenje o ulaganjima u umjetnost i nekretnine vrhunskih znalaca - kolekcionara i vlasnika Martimexa Veljka Martona, Ivana Kovačića iz Remington Realtyja koji u Hrvatskoj predstavlja Christie’s Real Estate te direktora Moderne galerije u Zagrebu, Branka Franceschija. Panel je moderirala Dubravka Tomeković Aralica, strateška suradnica Adria Luxury Societyja | In the ‘Luxury Investments’ panel discussion we talked about the experience and the view on investing in art and real estate with our top connoisseurs – Veljko Marton, a collector and the owner of Martimex, Ivan Kovačić from Remington Realty, who is also a representative for Christie’s Real Estate in Croatia, and Branko Franceschi, the director of the Modern Gallery in Zagreb. The panel discussion was moderated by Dubravka Tomeković Aralica, a strategy associate of Adria Luxury Society

PANEL “LUXURY INVESTMENTS” “LUXURY INVESTMENTS” PANEL

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laganje u kulturu odraz je bogatstva i osviještenosti određene zajednice, a uspješne kompanije i privatni investitori ključni su akteri u tom procesu. U panelu “Luxury Investments” sudjelovali su Veljko Marton, poduzetnik i kolekcionar umjetnina, Ivan Kovačić, izvršni direktor društva Remington Realty Croatia, te Branko Franceschi, povjesničar umjetnosti i ravnatelj zagrebačke Moderne galerije. Martonova impresivna zbirka porculana s primjercima iz 17. stoljeća broji više od 2000 eksponata, a vidjelo ju je više od 400.000 ljudi na međunarodnim izložbama u Beču, Parizu, Firenci i Veneciji. Kovačić za Christie’s Real Estate, vodeće društvo za luksuzne nekretnine u svijetu, vodi njihove projekte u Hrvatskoj. Franceschi posjeduje iskustvo upravljanja brojnim muzejima i galerijama u Hrvatskoj, a bio je i kustos - selektor za predstavljanje hrvatske umjetnosti na različitim bijenalima u svijetu. Na panelu su raspravljali o vezi luksuznih nekretnina i vrhunskih umjetnina, privlačenju imućnih kupaca, profesionalizaciji tržišta kao preduvjetu ulaganja u nekretnine i umjetnost te stvaranju njihove veće vrijednosti. Jer, složili su se svi, koncept razvoja Hrvatske kao luksuzne poželjne destinacije te stimuliranje potencijalnih ulagača donijeli bi mnoge dobrobiti društvu i lokalnoj zajednici. Odmaknulo bi to našu državu od postojeće potražnje za srednje i nisko vrijednim nekretninama te je približilo svjetskim standardima luksuza. Raspravu panelista moderirala je Dubravka Tomeković Aralica, dugogodišnja urednica lifestyle sadržaja u medijima, a dostupna je na www.adrialuxurysociety.com.

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nvesting in culture reflects the wealth and consciousness of a particular community, and successful companies and private investors are key actors in the process. In the ‘Luxury Investments’ panel we talked to Veljko Marton, entrepreneur and art collector, Ivan Kovačić, the CEO of Remington Realty Croatia and Branko Franceschi, art historian and the director of the Zagreb Modern Gallery. Marton’s impressive 17th-century porcelain collection features more than 2,000 exhibits and has been seen by over 400,000 people at international exhibitions in Vienna, Paris, Florence and Venice. Kovačić runs business operations for Christie’s Real Estate in Croatia, the world’s leading luxury real estate company.

Franceschi has experience in managing numerous museums and galleries in Croatia, and was also a curator - selector for the presentation of Croatian art at various Biennales around the world. In the panel, they discussed the connection between luxury real estate and top art, attracting wealthy buyers, professionalizing the market as a prerequisite for investing in real estate and art, and creating their greater value. Because, as everyone agreed, the concept of developing Croatia as a desirable destination for luxury, as well as stimulating potential investors, would bring many benefits to the society and the local community. It would set it apart from the existing demand for medium and low-value real estate and bring it closer to world standards of luxury. The panellists’ discussion was moderated by Dubravka Tomeković Aralica, a long-time editor of lifestyle content in the media and is available at www.adrialuxurysociety.com.

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BUS INESS & PEO PLE

& BUSINESS PERSPECTIVE AND STORIES OF SUCCESS

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

POTPREDSJEDNICA D E LT A H O L D I N G A MARIJA DESIVOJEVIĆ C V E T KO V I Ć, U N ATO Č N E STA B I L N O ST I N A TRŽIŠTU, NAJAVLJUJE N A STA V A K P L A N I R A N I H INVESTICIJA TVRTKE U NEKRETNINE I PODRUČJE LUKSUZA TE OTKRIVA KAKVIM JE NAČINOM RAZMIŠLJANJA DOŠLA DO JEDNE OD NAJVAŽNIJIH MENADŽERSKIH POZICIJA U TVRTKI, ALI I DO NAJTEŽEGA SPORTSKOG N A TJ E C A N J A N A SVIJETU - IRONMANA

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SVE S JE MOGUĆE R A Z G OVA R A LA _ I N TER VI EW ED BY: IVANA ZOB ENICA FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO G R A PH S: PRIVATNI ALB U M

MARIJA DESIVOJEVIĆ CVETKOVIĆ ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE D E LT A H O L D I N G S E N I O R V I C E P R E S I D E N T MARIJA DESIVOJEVIĆ CVETKOVIĆ A N N O U N C E S T H E C O N T I N U AT I O N O F T H E C O M PA N Y ' S P L A N N E D I N V E ST M E N TS I N R E A L E STAT E A N D L U X U RY D E S P I T E T H E I N STA B I L I T Y I N T H E M A R K E T A N D R E V E A L S T H E W AY O F T H I N K I N G W H I C H L E A D H E R TO O N E O F T H E M O ST I M P O R TA N T M A N A G E R I A L P O S I T I O N S I N T H E C O M P A N Y, B U T A L S O T H E M O S T D I F F I C U LT S P O R T S C O M P E T I T I O N I N THE WORLD - IRONMAN

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irus nije donio nove i nikada viđene ili predviđene koncepte poslovanja.

Samo je, čini mi se, ubrzao promjene koje su već počele. Nije se promijenila osnova biznisa, kao ni strateško opredjeljenje da razvijanjem svojih ljudi gradimo tvrtku i osvajamo nove poslove.

Osnovni principi komuniciranja također su ostali isti jer oni postoje oduvijek. S druge strane, u velikoj su se mjeri promijenile neke navike partnera, klijenata, pa i naših zaposlenika, zbog čega smo počeli obavljati sastanke na daljinu, klijenti ne moraju dolaziti na mjesto prodaje i slično. Koronakriza nije suštinski promijenila poslovnu strategiju, ali nas je natjerala da još jednom razmislimo o takozvanom konceptu crnog labuda i o tome kako se pripremiti za sljedeći koji dolazi - govori Marija Desivojević Cvetković, viša potpredsjednica tvrtke Delta Holding, regionalnog diva čiji portfelj obuhvaća širok spektar djelovanja – od agrarnog biznisa i distribucije do nekretnina.

Unatoč nestabilnim vremenima u kojima živimo, vizija rasta i razvoja tvrtke u kojoj je Desivojević Cvetković od 2008. godine, prema njezinim riječima, stabilna je i jasna. Ona je u Delta Holdingu zadužena za strategiju i planiranje, stoga je savršeni sugovornik kad je riječ o postavljanju strategije u okolnostima koronakrize. Idućih godina u njihovu će fokusu, među ostalim, biti ulaganje u nekretnine i luksuzne hotele.

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Fokusiranost i ustrajnost u srži su osobnosti Marije Desivojević Cvetković koja je, uz poziciju potpredsjednice Delta Holdinga i članica Upravnog odbora Addiko banke u Srbiji, Upravnog odbora Srpske asocijacije menadžera te poslovnog kluba Privrednik i predsjednica Srpske triatlonske unije. Posljednja pozicija proizišla je iz njezine velike ljubavi prema triatlonu. Naime, ova je menadžerica 2016. godine završila najteže natjecanje na svijetu, Ironman, koje obuhvaća tri fizički i psihički iznimno zahtjevne discipline - plivanje, bicikliranje i trčanje. Mindset potreban za sudjelovanje u triatlonu ne razlikuje se od onoga potrebnog za vođenje tima u jednoj od najvećih regionalnih tvrtki. U intervjuu za Adria Luxury Society Desivojević Cvetković otkriva planove Delta Holdinga u nadolazećem razdoblju te najavljuje nastavak strateških investicija.

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he virus has not brought new and never seen or anticipated business concepts. It has only, as it seems to me, accelerated the changes that had already begun. The basis of the business has not changed, nor has the strategic commitment to build a company and win new jobs by investing in human resource development. The basic principles of communication have also remained the same because they have always existed. On the other hand, some habits of partners, clients, and even our employees have changed a lot, which is why we have started having meetings at a distance so clients do not have to come to the physical store etc. The corona crisis did not fundamentally change the business strategy, but it made us think once again about the so-called black swan concept and how to prepare for the next one - says Marija Desivojević Cvetković, Senior Vice President at Delta Holding, a regional giant whose portfolio covers a wide range of activities - from agriculture and distribution to real estate. Despite the unstable times we live in, the vision of growth and development of the company she has been a part of since 2008 is stable and clear, according to her. She is in charge of strategy and planning at Delta Holding, so she is the perfect interlocutor when talking about setting a strategy in the corona crisis circumstances. In the coming years, the company’s focus will be, among other things, investing in real estate and luxury hotels.

Focus and perseverance are at the core of Marija Desivojević Cvetković’s personality. Along with the position of Senior Vice President at Delta Holding, she is also a member of the Board of Addiko Bank in Serbia, the Board of the Serbian Association of Managers, Business Club Privrednik and the President of the Serbian Triathlon Union. This last position stemmed from her great love of triathlon. Namely, in 2016, this manager finished the most difficult competition in the world, Ironman, which includes three physically and mentally extremely demanding disciplines: swimming, cycling and running. The mindset required to participate in a triathlon is no different from the one required to lead a team in one of the largest regional companies. In an interview for Adria Luxury Society, Desivojević Cvetković reveals Delta Holding's plans for the coming period and announces the continuation of strategic investments.

Delta Holding is one of the largest companies in the region. What are the challenges that lie ahead and what will you focus on in the next couple of year?

DELTA SE STRATEŠKI OPREDIJELILA ZA HOTELSKI BIZNIS I SPREMNI SMO PRIČEKATI OPORAVAK TE INDUSTRIJE, U KOJI NE SUMNJAMO DELTA HAS STRATEGICALLY OPTED FOR THE HOTEL BUSINESS AND WE ARE READY TO WAIT FOR ITS RECOVERY, WHICH WE HAVE NO DOUBT ABOUT

Delta Holding jedna je od najvećih tvrtki u regiji. Koji su izazovi pred vama i na što ćete se fokusirati u idućih nekoliko godina?

Fokus tvrtke postavljen je strateškim planom i on se neće mijenjati u idućih nekoliko godina. Realizirat ćemo veliki investicijski ciklus u području nekretnina, vrijedan oko 500 milijuna eura, koji obuhvaća gradnju hotela najviše kategorije, šoping centara i poslovnih prostora u Srbiji i regiji. Ostajemo u svome temeljnom, agrarnom biznisu, uz primjenu najsuvremenijih tehnologija koje donose maksimalne prihode. Nastavljamo razvijati logistiku i distribuciju.

Osim toga, planiramo neke nove poslove, a o tome ćemo moći govoriti možda već početkom sljedeće godine. Neprestano razvijamo svoju kadrovsku bazu zapošljavanjem mladih, stručnih i ambicioznih ljudi, što smatramo jednim od strateških ciljeva.

Kako vidite gospodarstvo naše regije?

Takve su prognoze nezahvalne jer ovise o puno, u ovom trenutku nepredvidljivih, faktora. Ne znamo kako će se razvijati pandemija ni kada će se pojaviti šire dostupno i efikasno cjepivo protiv bolesti COVID-19. S druge strane, ne znamo ni kakve će se mjere primjenjivati u fiskalnoj i monetarnoj politici.

Naša je regija u bliskoj prošlosti prošla toliko kriza da nekada u šali kažemo kako je kriza naše permanentno stanje. Baš zato imamo razloga vjerovati u vitalnost biznisa te da će on uvijek pronaći put za opstanak i razvoj. Važnije je pitanje hoće li u tome imati adekvatnu podršku i uvjete.

U Delti ste zaduženi za strategiju, komunikaciju i informacijske tehnologije, koliko je u današnje vrijeme važno uskladiti digitalizaciju i komunikaciju?

Ne bih govorila o usklađivanju digitalizacije i bilo kojega drugog procesa u tvrtki. Digitalizacija nije nešto što se uvodi trenutačno, jednim propisom, niti se delegira samo jednom sektoru. Riječ je o promjeni paradigme, cjelokupnog pogleda na poslovanje, a samim time i na komunikaciju. Tako mi u Delti shvaćamo taj proces i vjerujem da smo prilično daleko odmaknuli u tom smislu. Toliko da se riječi “digitalizacija” i “digitalno” više i ne koriste. Nemamo osobe zadužene za digitalni marketing i komunikaciju, nego osobe zadužene za komunikaciju. U 21.

The focus of the company is set by the strategic plan and it will not change in the next few years. We will carry out a large investment cycle in the field of real estate, worth about 500 million euros, which includes the construction of hotels of the highest category, shopping centres and business premises in Serbia and the region. We continue our core, agrarian business, with the application of the most modern technologies which bring maximum income. We continue to develop logistics and distribution. In addition, we are planning some new ventures which we will be able to talk about perhaps as early as next year. We are constantly developing our human resource base by employing young, professional and ambitious people, which we consider one of our strategic goals.

How do you perceive the economy of our region?

Such predictions are ungrateful because they depend on many, at the moment unpredictable, factors. We do not know how the pandemic will develop or when the more widely available and effective vaccine against COVID-19 will emerge.

On the other hand, we do not know what measures will be applied in fiscal and monetary policy. Our region has gone through so many crises in the recent past that we sometimes joke that the crisis is our permanent condition. That is why we have reason to believe in the vitality of the business and that it will always find a way to survive and develop. The more important question is whether we will have adequate support and conditions in all this.

At Delta, you are in charge of strategy, communication and information technology; How important is it today to synchronize digitalisation and communication?

I would not talk about synchronization of digitalization and any other process in the company. Digitalization is not something that is introduced at once, by a single regulation, nor is it delegated to only one sector. It is a matter of changing the paradigm, the overall view of business, and thus of communication. That is how we at Delta understand the process and I believe we have come a long way in that regard. So far that the words “digitalization” and “digital” are no longer used.

We do not have people in charge of digital marketing and communication, only people in charge of communication. In the 21st century, it is understood that this communication is digital for the most part. The fact that we constantly employ only young people helps a lot - they are the digital native generation who do not need to be explained the benefits of new technologies because they live with them.

What does digital transformation of commerce bring?

Commerce is one of the businesses in which digitalization is most noticeable.

Customers are everywhere now, and stores are one click away from them, and this dramatically changes the trade business, but also the logistics and communication. We all must take this fact into consideration. In Serbia, the number of mobile banking users and transactions done by it is growing rapidly. In the second quarter of this year, the number of mobile transactions was 50% higher than in the same period last year.

How will certain brands position themselves in the market without direct contact with consumers?

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stoljeću podrazumijeva se da je ta komunikacija najvećim dijelom upravo digitalna. U tome nam pomaže činjenica da neprestano zapošljavamo samo mlade ljude – oni su digital native generacija kojoj ne treba objašnjavati prednosti novih tehnologija jer oni uz njih žive. Što nam donosi digitalna transformacija trgovine?

Trgovina je jedan od biznisa u kojem je digitalizacija najuočljivija. Kupci su sada posvuda, a prodavaonice su na jedan klik od njih i to dramatično mijenja poslovanje trgovine, ali i logistiku te komunikaciju.

Tu činjenicu svi moramo uzeti u obzir. U Srbiji ubrzano raste broj korisnika mobilnog bankarstva i transakcija koje se njime realiziraju. U drugom kvartalu ove godine broj mobilnih transakcija bio je 50% veći nego u istom razdoblju prošle godine.

Kako će se pojedini brendovi pozicionirati na tržištu bez direktnoga kontakta s potrošačima?

Jednako kao i do sada: pobuđujući njihov interes, stvarajući emocionalni odnos, ispunjavajući njihove potrebe i želje. Ništa se ne mijenja, priča o brendu ista je od drevnih civilizacija do danas. Mijenjaju se kanali i taktike, ali bit ostaje ista.

Tvrtka Delta Real Estate posljednjih je godina znatno ulagala u šoping centre i luksuzne hotele, a na službenoj je stranici navedeno da je procijenjena vrijednost njezinih investicija od 2020. do 2025. godine 400 milijuna eura. Hoće li se obujam investicija u ta područja smanjiti s obzirom na smanjenu mogućnost putovanja? Kakva je budućnost hotelskog biznisa?

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U hotelskom biznisu trenutačno se ne može planirati i ne mogu se dati jasne procjene. Tu je industriju u cijelom svijetu pogodila kriza; putovanja su puno rjeđa, a naša regija nije iznimka. Ipak, Delta se strateški opredijelila za hotelski biznis i spremni smo pričekati njegov oporavak, u koji ne sumnjamo. Zato se i dalje držimo prijašnjih investicijskih planova koji uključuju Indigo hotel u Beogradu, koji ćemo uskoro otvoriti, te InterContinental Beograd i Holiday Inn u Ljubljani koje želimo graditi. Osim toga, cilj nam je otvoriti hotel InterContinental i u Zagrebu.

Delta Holding u svome sastavu ima tvrtke koje uvoze te na srpskom tržištu prodaju luksuzne automobile. Planirani prihod od prodaje za 2020. godinu u tom segmentu poslovanja iznosi 65,2 milijuna eura.

Hoćete li dostići taj plan?

Delta Auto jedna je od naših najuspješnijih tvrtki jer je pokazatelj dobrog prilagođavanja tržištu. Naravno, tu su i brendovi s kojima surađujemo - BMW, Mini i Honda, a imaju iznimnu vrijednost za kupce i traženi su unatoč krizi. Ukratko, dostići ćemo sve što smo planirali za ovu godinu.

MOŽE SE S VELIKOM SIGURNOŠĆU REĆI DA SU LUKSUZNI PROIZVODI NAJBOLJE PODNIJELI UDAR KRIZE PROUZROČENE BOLEŠĆU COVID-19 IT CAN BE SAID WITH GREAT CERTAINTY THAT LUXURY PRODUCTS HAVE BEST WITHSTOOD THE IMPACT OF THE CRISIS CAUSED BY THE CORONAVIRUS

Just like before: by arousing their interest, creating an emotional relationship, fulfilling their needs and desires. Nothing changes, the story of the brand is the same from ancient civilizations to the present day. Channels and tactics change, but the main idea remains the same.

Delta Real Estate has invested heavily in shopping malls and luxury hotels in recent years, and the official website states that the estimated value of its investments from 2020 to 2025 is 400 million euros. Will the volume of investment in these segments decrease given the reduced ability to travel? What is the future of the hotel business?

In the hotel business, there is currently no planning and no clear estimates can be given. This industry has been hit by a crisis in all parts of the world; travel is far less frequent, and our region is no exception. Nevertheless, Delta has strategically opted for the hotel business and we are ready to wait for its recovery, which we have no doubt about. That is why we are still sticking to previous investment plans, which include the Indigo Hotel in Belgrade, which we will open soon, and the InterContinental Belgrade and Holiday Inn in Ljubljana, which we want to build.

In addition, our goal is to open the InterContinental Hotel in Zagreb as well.

Delta Holding subsidiary companies import and sell luxury cars on the Serbian market. The planned sales revenue for 2020 in this business segment amounts to EUR 65.2 million. Will you manage to reach those goals?

Delta Auto is one of our most successful companies because it is an indicator of good adaptation to the market. Of course, there are also the brands we work with, BMW, Mini and Honda, which are of exceptional value to customers and are in demand despite the crisis. In short, we will achieve everything we planned for this year.

What are the market trends? Do only the most accessible products get chosen, or the luxury ones also successfully reach customers?

According to very different sources, it can be said with great certainty that luxury products have best withstood the impact of the crisis caused by the coronavirus.

On the one hand, there is good sales of luxury cars, which include brands represented by Delta, and on the other hand, data show that micro, small and medium enterprises are hit the hardest, while large systems have shown greater flexibility.

The crisis mostly affects those who have been more vulnerable before, who had fewer reserves or fewer ways to adapt.

Do some products in our region have the potential to become luxurious?

The world has long since become one market and for a product to have extremely high value, it must be global. In order to set a global brand, it requires conditions that only the largest companies can usually meet. Therefore, there is little chance that a regional brand would have global significance. At Delta, we are closer to the view that smaller players in the region need to connect with global giants and

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Kakvi su tržišni trendovi? Biraju li se isključivo najpristupačniji proizvodi ili se i oni luksuzni uspješno probijaju do kupaca?

Prema vrlo različitim izvorima, s velikom se sigurnošću može reći da su luksuzni proizvodi najbolje podnijeli udar krize prouzročene koronavirusom. S jedne je strane dobra prodaja luksuznih automobila, u koje se ubrajaju i brendovi koje zastupa Delta, a s druge su podaci da su najteže pogođena mikro, mala i srednja poduzeća, dok su veliki sustavi pokazali i veću fleksibilnost. Kriza najviše pogađa one koji su i prije bili ranjiviji, koji su imali manje rezervi ili manje načina prilagodbe.

Imaju li neki proizvodi u našoj regiji potencijal da postanu luksuzni?

Svijet je odavno postao jedno tržište i da bi proizvod imao ekstremno veliku vrijednost, on mora biti globalan. Da bi se postavio globalni brend, to zahtijeva uvjete na koje najčešće mogu odgovoriti samo najveće kompanije. Zato su male šanse da se regionalno razvije brend koji bi imao globalno značenje. U Delti smo bliži stajalištu da se manji igrači u regiji trebaju povezati s globalnim divovima i svoj put tražiti u suradnji s njima. Osim toga, manje tvrtke trebaju težiti poslovima u kojima imaju neku prednost na koju globalni igrači ne mogu odgovoriti (ili za to nemaju interes). Pritom ponajprije mislim na specifične prehrambene proizvode koji nose oznaku posebnoga geografskog podrijetla, organske i slične proizvode. Ako pak govorimo o uslugama, čini mi se da je tu situacija drukčija i da su barijere puno manje. Niche usluge, posebno u turizmu ili medicini, mogu biti primamljive na svjetskoj razini.

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Malo je žena u našoj regiji na visokim menadžerskim pozicijama, a vi ste osim toga uspješno završili i najteži sportski događaj na svijetu – Ironman.

Uz to ste i majka dvoje djece. Kako uspijevate organizirati svoje vrijeme i biti uspješni na više polja?

Moto natjecanja Ironman glasi: “Sve je moguće.” Ako jako želite nešto postići, a uz to imate i fanatičnu samodisciplinu te radite sve što je potrebno kako biste stigli do cilja, ako na svakoj sljedećoj utrci želite pobijediti sami sebe, onda ne postoje neostvarivi snovi. Uz jaku motivaciju lako je precizno organizirati sve resurse, pa tako i vrijeme.

Jednom ste izjavili da nije potrebno uspostavljati ravnotežu između posla, obitelji i osobnih potreba i da jedino ako se ostvarimo u svim svojim ulogama, možemo biti sretni. Kako to postižete?

Protivnik sam stava o potrebi uspostavljanja ravno-

find their way in collaboration with them. In addition, smaller companies should strive for jobs in which they have some advantage to which global players cannot respond (or have no interest in doing so). By that, I primarily think of specific food products bearing a special geographical indication, organic and similar products. If we talk about services, it seems to me that the situation is different and that the barriers are much smaller. Niche services, especially in tourism or medicine, can be tempting on a global scale.

There are few women in our region in high management positions, and on top of that you have also successfully completed the most difficult sporting event in the world - Ironman. You are also the mother of two children. How do you manage to organize your time and be successful in multiple fields?

The motto of the Ironman competition is: “Anything is possible.” If you really want to achieve something, and you also have fanatical self-discipline and do everything necessary to reach the finish line, if you want to beat yourself in every next race, then there are no dreams you cannot make come true. With strong motivation, it is easy to precisely organize all resources, including time.

You once stated that there is no need to establish a balance between work, family, and personal needs and that only if we get accomplished in all our roles can we be happy. How do you achieve that?

I am opposed to the need to strike a balance between work and private life.

Equilibrium in itself implies that, when one comes out of that perfect state, it is not good for one side of the seesaw. If you are successful in your business, then the family suffers. And vice versa. I am deeply opposed to such an attitude. The essence of our life is not in establishing a balance between opposing concepts, but in succeeding in integrating everything we do and care about. The point is that we live while we work, that it fulfills us and makes us happy, that we get the most interesting business ideas while we are in nature or on a trip with friends or family.

I think one of the most important things in life is to do the job you love. If you

MOTO NATJECANJA IRONMAN GLASI: “SVE JE MOGUĆE”. AKO JAKO ŽELITE NEŠTO POSTIĆI, A UZ TO IMATE I FANATIČNU SAMODISCIPLINU TE ČINITE SVE ŠTO JE POTREBNO DA BISTE STIGLI DO CILJA, AKO NA SVAKOJ SLJEDEĆOJ UTRCI ŽELITE POBIJEDITI SEBE, ONDA NE POSTOJE NEOSTVARIVI SNOVI THE MOTTO OF THE IRONMAN COMPETITION IS: “ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE.” IF YOU REALLY WANT TO ACHIEVE SOMETHING, AND YOU ALSO HAVE FANATICAL SELF-DISCIPLINE AND DO EVERYTHING NECESSARY TO REACH THE FINISH LINE, IF YOU WANT TO BEAT YOURSELF IN EVERY NEXT RACE, THEN THERE ARE NO DREAMS YOU CANNOT MAKE COME TRUE

teže između posla i privatnog života. Ravnoteža sama po sebi implicira da, kada se iz tog savršenog stanja iziđe, to za jednu stranu klackalice nije dobro. Ako ste uspješni u svome poslu, onda stradava obitelj. I obrnuto. Duboko se protivim takvu stavu. Bit našeg života nije u uspostavljanju ravnotežu između suprotstavljenih koncepata, nego u uspijevanju integriranja svega čime se bavimo i do čega nam je stalo. Bit je da živimo dok radimo, da nas to ispunjava i usrećuje, da najzanimljivije poslovne ideje dobivamo dok smo u prirodi ili na putovanju s prijateljima ili obitelji.

Smatram da je jedna od najvažnijih stvari u životu raditi posao koji volite. Ako imate tu sreću, onda, kako kaže jedna izreka, ne morate raditi nijedan dan u životu. Za mene su poslovni i privatni život jedna strana medalje i samo čovjek ispunjen na oba plana može biti potpuno zadovoljan.

| U cilju najtežeg natjecanja na svijetu, triatlona Ironman u Copenhagenu 2016. godine te na jednoj od konferencija Delta Holdinga | At the finish line of the most difficult competition in the world, the Ironman triathlon, in Copenhagen in 2016, and at one of the Delta Holding conferences

Kako podesiti mindset tvrtke i pojedinaca u smjeru razvoja i rasta s obzirom na nesigurnost i tržišne izazove koji slijede?

O kratkoročnom uspjehu ne bih govorila jer na taj način ne razmišljaju ni u tvrtki u kojoj radim ni ja.

Ako tražimo dugoročan uspjeh, a Delta uspješno posluje već 30 godina, onda je najvažniji uvjet imati kvalificirane i motivirane ljude. Mindset kojemu težimo jest onaj u kojem su naši ljudi motivirani, otvoreni za nova iskustva, rade u ugodnom okruženju te su spremni za promjene i cjeloživotno učenje. Što vas čini kvalitetnim liderom?

Kvalitetan lider mora objediniti velik broj dobrih osobina. Izdvojila bih sposobnost slušanja i razumijevanja te motiviranja suradnika. Što vas motivira?

Moja se motivacija tijekom godina mijenjala i dobivala nove oblike. U ovom životnom razdoblju cilj mi je motivirati druge – moju obitelj, kolege i prijatelje, ali i ljude koje osobno ne poznajem – da uvijek teže nečemu većem, boljem, višem, da ostvare svoj puni potencijal.

Jeste li ostvarili sve ciljeve koje ste si zadali ili su još neki na vašoj listi?

Kada ostvarite sve životne ciljeve, vaša motivacija nestaje i život je gotov. Moja je lista uvijek duga: novi osobni rekord u maratonu, veliki Deltin projekt koji treba realizirati, novi planinski vrh na koji se treba popeti, biciklističke ture koje me čekaju, tolike knjige koje treba pročitati, kontinenti i predjeli koje treba doživjeti s obitelji... i – na kraju – flaširati svoje bužu, bjelicu i merlot te u svemu tome lagano uživati. Živjeli!

are that lucky, then, as one saying goes, you will never work another day in your life. For me, business and private life are each one side of the coin and only a man fulfilled on both planes can be completely satisfied.

How to adjust the mindset of a company and individuals in the direction of development and growth given the uncertainty and market challenges that follow?

I would not talk about short-term success because that is not how I nor the company I work for operate. If we are looking for long-term success, and Delta has been operating successfully for 30 years, then the most important condition is to have qualified and motivated people. The mindset we strive for is one in which our people are motivated, open to new experiences, work in a comfortable environment and are ready for changes and lifelong learning.

What makes you a quality leader?

A quality leader must embody a large number of good qualities. I would single out the ability to listen, understand and motivate co-workers.

What motivates you?

My motivation has changed over the years and taken on new forms. In this period of my life, my goal is to motivate others - my family, colleagues and friends, but also people I do not personally know - to always strive for something bigger, better, higher, to reach their full potential.

Have you achieved all the goals you set for yourself or are there some more goals on your list?

When you achieve all life goals, your motivation disappears and life is over. My list is always long: a new personal record in a marathon, a big Delta project to realize, a new mountain peak to climb, bike tours waiting for me, so many books to read, continents and landscapes to experience with my family, and – eventually – to bottle my own buža, bjelica and merlot and simply enjoy all that. Cheers!

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2021.

CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOGRAPHS : PRES S, S HU T T ERSTOC K

| Zvonimir Savić, glavni ekonomist HGK i posebni savjetnik predsjednika Vlade Republike Hrvatske za ekonomska pitanja | Zvonimir Savić. Chief Economist, Croatian Chamber of Economy, and Special Advisor to the Prime Minister for Economic Issues

ZVONIMIR SAVIĆ EKONOMSKI ANALITIČAR DONOSI P O G L E D N A STA N J E T R Ž I ŠTA T E M O G U Ć I SMJER OPORAVKA U 2021. GODINI I PRILIKE KOJE ONA NOSI, POSEBICE ZA TURISTIČKI SEKTOR

G

otovo sve gospodarske djelatnosti osjećaju posljedice krize, odnosno rijetke su one koje ih ne osjećaju s obzirom na pad domaće i inozemne potražnje izazvan pandemijom. Industrija općenito manje proizvodi, trgovina trpi posljedice osjetnog smanjenja sklonosti potrošnji, u graditeljstvu je došlo do usporavanja provedbe projekata. Posljedice krize osjeća i financijski sektor, a najviše su pogođene djelatnosti vezane uz prijevoz, turizam i industriju zabave. Pojedini su segmenti gospodarstva ipak manje pogođeni, kao što su prehrambena industrija, čija je proizvodnja u prvih devet mjeseci na godišnjoj razini smanjena samo 2,4%, dok je izvoz u prvih osam mjeseci, za koje su dostupni podaci, čak i blago povećan.

No i unutar prehrambene industrije postoje pojedine grane koje je kriza znatnije pogodila, primjerice proizvodnja vina čiji je plasman smanjen oko 50%.

Svaka kriza donosi i određene prilike za gospodarstvo ili barem za njegove pojedine dijelove. Konkretnije možemo govoriti o primjerima proaktivnih poduzetnika koji su pokrenuli proizvodnju zaštitne opreme, dezinficijensa ili čak sofisticiranih uređaja za mjerenje temperature. Osim toga, primjer prehrambene industrije pokazuje da pojedine industrije mogu profitirati i od otežanih tokova globalne robne razmjene i nesigurnosti globalnog tržišta, pogotovo što je Hrvatska dio zajedničkog tržišta EU. SMJER OPORAVKA

Iduća bi godina, prema svemu sudeći, trebala donijeti smirivanje pandemije i oporavak globalnoga gospodarstva. Takva se očekivanja trenutačno temelje na vijestima o cjepivima u visokoj fazi testiranja.

Uspije li se to zaista postići, globalno bi gospodarstvo trebalo biti obilježeno brzim oporavkom globalnih robnih tokova i visokim rastom BDP-a. Taj se efekt može očekivati i na regionalnoj razini, a i u Hrvatskoj. Naravno, uvijek postoji opasnost da nešto poremeti takve planove, ali ovaj se put to više odnosi na područje medicine nego na područje ekonomije. S obzirom na “žilavost” koju je turizam pokazao u ovoj godini, očekujemo da bi ta djelatnost trebala imati najveći pozitivan efekt oporavka. Naravno, uz ugostiteljstvo i smještaj u širem smislu, pozitivne bi posljedice trebale osjetiti i sve prateće djelatnosti.

Efekte pozitivnog ozračja trebala bi snažno osjetiti i trgovina, pogotovo zato što je spomenuti pad sklonosti potrošnji u većem broju kućanstava doveo do porasta štednje pa postoje raspoloživa sredstva koja bi mogla brzo dovesti do oporavka potrošnje.

ONLINE TRGOVINA

Pandemija je snažno utjecala na rast online prodaje. Prema podacima DZS-a, trgovina na malo poštom ili internetom porasla je u prvih devet mjeseci na godišnjoj razini za 11,4%. Slični podaci Eurostata pokazuju da je riječ o globalnom trendu pa je tako online trgovina na razini cijele Europske unije u istom razdoblju povećana za čak 21,2%. Pritom treba napomenuti da ta vrsta trgovine ima dugogodišnji trend rasta, ali on je u razdoblju prije pandemije ipak bio osjetno manji. Za usporedbu, u prvih devet mjeseci prošle godine na razini EU iznosio je 10,5%. Daljnji rast se, bez obzira na razvoj situacije, može očekivati i u sljedećim godinama, ali po umjerenijim stopama, pri čemu bi izuzetak mogao biti barem dio iduće godine, u kojem se može očekivati nastavak snažnog rasta.

Online trgovina u Hrvatskoj također ima višegodišnji trend rasta, a situacija u ovoj godini dodatno će pozitivno utjecati na razvoj tog segmenta prodaje. Pravila i regulaciju online trgovine ponajprije će određivati zajedničko tržište, poput uvođenja plaćanja poreza na pošiljke male vrijednosti što stupa na snagu početkom srpnja iduće godine, odnosno mogućnosti državne regulacije kojom bi se online trgovina usmjerila na domaće internetske trgovine gotovo i nema.

TURIZAM

Podaci o udjelu turizma u gospodarstvu su poznati, a i ova je godina pokazala kolika je stvarna važnost turizma za Hrvatsku. Ako na trenutak zaboravimo prisutnu pandemiju i njezine posljedice na ostvarenja u idućoj godini, može se reći da se turistička djelatnost u Hrvatskoj neprestano poboljšava te razvija sukladno mogućnostima i zahtjevima tržišta. Pritom je došlo do znatne diverzifikacije turističke ponude na još relativno skromne i povoljne uvjete smještaja te one koja nudi znatnu dozu luksuza uz visoke cijene. Hrvatska treba pažljivo pratiti zahtjeve tržišta i razvijati oba segmenta, ali uz trend ostvarivanja većih prihoda s manjim brojem turista. Ova je godina bila potpuno specifična, pokazala je određene sposobnosti prilagodbe ponude, ali i otpornost na izraženije snižavanje cijena bez obzira na umanjenu potražnju. Idućih nekoliko godina trebalo bi biti obilježeno nastavkom trendova prisutnih do ove godine, rastom investicija u turizmu i infrastrukturi, povećanjem fizičkih pokazatelja i nastavkom rasta deviznog prihoda od turizma. Pritom još jednom treba napomenuti da visoka ovisnost hrvatskoga gospodarstva o turizmu ne proizlazi iz (pre)snažnog turizma, nego iz nedovoljno razvijenih drugih dijelova gospodarstva.

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

ZVONIMIR SAVIĆ E C O N O M I C A N A LY S T T A L K S A B O U T H I S V I E W O F T H E S I T U AT I O N I N T H E M A R K E T, T H E P O S S I B L E DIRECTION OF RECOVERY IN 2021 AND THE OPPORTUNITIES THIS Y E A R B R I N G S , E S P E C I A L LY F O R THE TOURISM SECTOR

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lmost all economic activities feel the consequences of the crisis, i.e. there are only few that do not, given the decline in domestic and foreign demand caused by the pandemic. Industry generally produces less, trade suffers the consequences of a significant fall in consumption, and project implementation has slowed down in construction. The consequences of the crisis are also felt by the financial sector, with the most affected activities being related to transport, tourism and the entertainment industry. Some segments of the economy are less affected, such as the food industry, whose production in the first nine months fell by only 2.4% on an annual basis, while exports even slightly increased in the first eight months of the year for which data are available. However, even within the food industry, there are some branches that have been significantly affected by the crisis, such as wine production, whose sales have been reduced by about 50%.

Each crisis brings certain opportunities for the economy or at least for some parts of it. More specifically, we can talk about examples of proactive entrepreneurs who started the production of protective equipment, disinfectants or even sophisticated temperature measuring devices. In addition, the example of the above-mentioned food industry shows that certain industries can also benefit from the difficult flows of global trade and the uncertainty of the global market, especially since Croatia is part of the EU common market.

THE DIRECTION OF RECOVERY

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Next year should, by all accounts, bring an end to the pandemic and the recovery of the global economy. Such expectations are currently based on news of vaccines at a high stage of testing. If this is really achieved, the global economy should be marked by a rapid recovery in global trade flows and high GDP growth. This can be expected both at the regional level and in Croatia. Of course, there is always a danger that something will disrupt such plans, but this time it refers more to the field of medicine than the field of economics. Given the perseverance which tourism has shown this year, we expect that this activity should have the greatest positive effect of recovery. Of course, in addition to hospitality industry and accommodation in a broader sense, all the accompanying business activities should also feel the positive consequences. The effects of a positive climate should also be strongly felt by trade, especially as the aforementioned decline in the consumption of many households has led to an increase in savings, so there are funds available which could quickly lead to a recovery in consumption.

THE ONLINE SALES

The pandemic had a strong impact on the growth of online sales.

According to the Croatian Bureau of Statistics’ data, retail sales by mail order or the Internet increased in the first nine months on an annual basis by 11.4%. Similar Eurostat data show that this is a global trend, so online shopping at the level of the EU increased by as much as 21.2% in the same period. It can be noted that this type of trade has a long-term growth trend, but this growth was still significantly lower in the period before the pandemic. For comparison, in the first nine months of last year it was 10.5% at the EU level. Further growth can be expected in the coming years, regardless of the development of the situation, but at more moderate rates, with the exception of at least one part of following year in which strong growth can be expected to continue.

Online shopping in Croatia also has a long-term growth trend, and the situation this year will have an additional positive impact on the development of this sales segment. The rules and regulation of online commerce will primarily be determined by the common market. Such an example is the introduction of a tax on small value shipments, which will come into force in early July next year, i.e. the possibility of state regulation which would redirect online shopping to Croatian online stores.

TOURISM

Data on the share of tourism in the economy are known, and this year also showed the real importance of tourism for Croatia. If we forget for a moment the presence of the pandemic and its consequences on the achievements in the next year, it can be said that the tourism industry in Croatia is constantly improving and developing in accordance with the possibilities and requirements of the market.

At the same time, there has been a significant diversification of the tourist offer into the still relatively modest and favourable conditions of accommodation and those that offer a dose of luxury at high prices. Croatia needs to closely monitor market demands and develop both segments, but with a trend of higher revenues with smaller number of tourists. This year was very specific; it showed certain abilities to adjust the offer, but also resistance to noticeable price reductions regardless of the reduced demand. The next few years should be marked by the continuation of trends present until this year, the growth of investments in tourism and infrastructure, the increase of physical indicators and the continuation of the growth of foreign currency income from tourism. It should be noted once again that the high dependence of the Croatian economy on tourism does not arise from (too) strongly developed tourism, but from insufficiently developed other parts of the economy.

MARKO JURČIĆ | Marko Jurčić, savjetnik predsjednika Hrvatske gospodarske komore | Marko Jurčić, Adviser to the President of the Chamber od Economy

EKONOMSKI ANALITIČAR DONOSI PERSPEKTIVU I MOGUĆNOSTI KOJE SE N U D E U H R V ATS KO J U KO N T E KST U L U KS U Z A I EKONOMIJE LUKSUZA, S NAGLASKOM N A ST V A R A N J U D R U ŠT V A KO J E Ć E TA K V E USLUGE U BUDUĆNOSTI MOĆI I KORISTITI

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ako svaki problem donosi priliku, tako i pandemija prouzročena koronakrizom stvara prilike koje će neki iskoristiti, a neki propustiti. Ove smo godine u turizmu postigli rezultate kakve nismo očekivali te znatno premašili rezultate država koje su nam u tom području najveća konkurencija. Iako će rezultati i dalje biti osjetno slabiji od prijašnjih godina, daju nam određene smjernice i ideje kako promijeniti, ali i unaprijediti strukturu i ponudu našeg turističkog sektora u kojem velik dio predstavlja upravo potencijal luksuznog turizma.

Imali smo ove godine priliku doživjeti Hrvatsku kakvu vidimo na razglednicama i u televizijskim spotovima – prostranu, nenapučenu, privlačnu, opuštenu. Imali smo priliku kretati se obalom bez pritiska ranog dolaska na mjesta koja su pretrpana i na kojima moramo čekati red kako bismo doživjeli iskustvo mjesta, ljudi, prirode, doživljaja. Imali smo luksuz vremena i opuštenosti koji nam se već dugo nije pružao. I upravo taj luksuz vrijedi puno više od masovnog turizma. Luksuz koji predstavlja osobni prostor, razina ekskluzivnosti za koju smo mislili da više ne postoji.

Pitanje je kako to pretvoriti u proizvod, kako taj doživljaj i luksuz ispravno monetizirati? Strukturna promjena sadržaja i ponude, posebno u smislu podizanja ukupne kvalitete i doživljaja našega turističkog proizvoda, ne može se postići preko noći. Potrebno je i nekoliko godina za stvaranje ponude koja će sa sobom povući novu strukturu gostiju i razinu turističke potrošnje koju priželjkujemo.

Pogledamo li pozorno, još prisutna pandemija daje nam rješenja i mogućnosti kretanja upravo u tom smjeru. Ograničenja putovanja i fizička udaljenosti prilikom putovanja i boravka na svakoj lokaciji stvaraju platformu koja omogućava upravo ono što smo iskusili ovo ljeto – distanciranost, ekskluzivnost, manju napučenost lokacija. Uz takvu manju brojnost gostiju dosadašnji poslovni modeli ne mogu biti uspješni kao dosad. Drukčija ekonomija razmjera zahtijeva potpuno drukčiju cjenovnu politiku, a drukčija cjenovna politika zahtijeva drukčiju strukturu gostiju. Pojednostavljeno, mali broj gostiju niže platežne moći ne može održavati ponudu koja je živjela na mnogo većem broju takvih gostiju. Ako se danas popije upola manje kava u odnosu na isti dan prošle godine, taj se manjak ne može nadoknaditi jednostavnim povećanjem cijene kave za 100% želimo li imati iste goste. S druge strane, za goste koji će platiti dvaput skuplju kavu trebamo pripremiti i odgovarajući sadržaj, ponudu i adute za njihov dolazak.

Tu ulogu dobivaju luksuz, luksuzni sadržaj i luksuzni gosti. Kako prilagoditi naš turizam upravo tim gostima? Manje gužve na obali, ekskluzivnost, mir, sigurnost, ljepota i raznolikost prirode – to ili imamo ili ćemo imati uz podršku pandemijskih mjera. To nam je trenutačno bogomdano i pola je posla već odrađeno. No to je samo priprema, samo polovica posla. Polovica karika u lancu, a znamo da je lanac jak koliko mu je jaka najslabija karika.

Karike koje su nama kao društvu u rukama i zadatak koji treba ispuniti su - promjena strukture turističke ponude, počevši od podizanja kvalitete smještaja na velikom broju naših turističkih lokacija; daljnji razvoja ponude doživljaja - gastro, kulturnih, avanturističkih; razvoj sadržaja poput golf-terena; povećanje kvalitete i sadržaja marina i svih aktivnosti vezanih uz marine... Ukratko, s prirodnim i društvenim prednostima, koje su već na najvišoj razni, trebamo uskladiti sve one elemente koji označavaju luksuzne sadržaje i ponude. Prilika za to neće trajati dugo pa je kao cijelo društvo moramo prihvatiti i provesti što prije kako bismo se u duljem razdoblju na globalnoj razini postavili kao nova destinacija luksuznog odmora i turizma. Naravno, to se ne može ostvariti na svim našim lokacijama niti je to neophodno. No moguće je promijeniti sliku Hrvatske kao destinacije. Igrajući na karte koje nam idu u prilog (ljepota, sigurnost, raznolikost) u kombinaciji s poznavanjem preferencija najkvalitetnijega gosta, možemo podignuti veći broj lokacija na razinu pet zvjezdica, a sve druge kapacitete možemo podići barem za jednu kategoriju višu od one koju trenutačno predstavljaju.

POTREBA

Dok je u kontekstu turizma riječ o načelu “izgradi pa će doći”, to načelo ne vrijedi u kontekstu razvoja drugih luksuznih sadržaja i ponude u našem društvu, a izvan granica turističkog proizvoda i usluge. Ne mogu pobjeći od sebe i ne mogu ni u temi luksuza gledati širu perspektivu našeg društva i razloga postojanja društva - boljitka našeg čovjeka. Stoga ću se i ovdje usmjeriti na tu temu: što postižemo razvojem luksuzne ponude našeg turizma u širem kontekstu? Je li takva ponuda sama sebi svrha i koliko koristi cijelom društvu? Vrijedi li imati najvišu razinu luksuzne turističke ponude koju golema većina naših građana nikada neće moći koristiti?

Priroda je luksuza takva da je njegova dostupnost ograničena i nije za najšire slojeve korisnika. No cilj bi nam svima trebao biti da naš građanin s prosječnim primanjima može, bez problema i ulaska u kratkoročne dugove, priuštiti sebi i svojoj obitelji korištenje turistič-

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kih sadržaja koji su maksimalno za jednu stepenicu ispod kategorije luksuznog.

Poticat će imigraciju kvalitetne i visoko plaćene radne snage, ali usporedo s time i razvoj takve radne snage od domaćeg stanovništva.

Također, kako učiniti luksuz dostupnijim (ne u smislu cjenovnog pristupačnijeg) na našem tržištu? Kako konačno doći u situaciju u kojoj je normalno na ulicama naših gradova vidjeti ekskluzivne trgovine i proizvode koje viđamo u gotovo svim metropolama i centrima u Europskoj uniji? Danas se u šetnji Pragom ili Varšavom vidi ponuda koju smo prije gledali u Parizu i Londonu, ali ona kod nas i dalje ne postoji.

GDJE SMO I KAMO IDEMO?

Odgovor na ovo pitanje ide ruku pod ruku s pitanjem kako postići da naš prosječan građanin koristi visokokvalitetne proizvode i usluge. Za razliku od turističke ponude, ovdje ne vrijedi pravilo izgradi sadržaj pa će klijenti doći nego obrnuto. Izgradimo bogato društvo pa će luksuzni proizvodi naći put do takvog tržišta. Otvaranje prestižne trgovine u Zagrebu neće privući kupce koji već nisu ovdje (u pravilu), ali izgradnja visoke razine blagostanja prosječnog potrošača privući će prestižan brend jer će u tom slučaju imati konačno kome prodati svoj proizvod u ekonomski opravdanom i isplativom obujmu.

Taj je zadatak puno teži od onoga prvog (razvoj luksuznog turizma).

Podrazumijeva sveobuhvatne promjene, reforme i promjenu dosadašnjeg načina funkcioniranja našega gospodarstva. Podrazumijeva razvoj strukture gospodarstva koju odlikuju visoko plaćena radna mjesta, internacionalizacija, visoka dodana vrijednost, prioritetna uloga visokoškolskog sustava, otvorenost tržišta i kapitalu i ljudima.

Ovdje je premalo mjesta za obradu svih potrebnih aktivnosti, ali treba naglasiti da razvoj luksuzne ponude privlači i bolje poslove te bolja radna mjesta. Naša lokacija, razina osobne sigurnosti, razina kvalitete života, raznolikost, blizina globalnih središta i povezanost – faktori su koje do danas nismo dovoljno koristili upravo u svrhu unapređenja našega gospodarstva. Dok su temeljnoj industriji prioriteti cijena rada, razina poreznih davanja i dostupnih poticaja, napredne industrije i poslovne aktivnosti, poput istraživanja i razvoja, IT-ja, središnjica multinacionalnih tvrtki (HQ, shared service centers itd.), naglasak stavljaju na kvalitetu života, dostupnost kvalitetnih i obrazovanih kadrova i slično. Upravo takve napredne aktivnosti na višemu mjestu u lancu dodane vrijednosti zahtijevaju zadovoljne kadrove i zadovoljan menadžment, ljude koji cijene lokaciju, kvalitetu života i ponudu. Privlačenje i razvoj takvih aktivnosti i takvoga gospodarstva podrazumijevat će i postojanje luksuzne ponude, ali ujedno će i poticati daljnji razvoj takve ponude.

Eurostat

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Kao što već svi znamo, ne nalazimo se na dobroj poziciji, odnosno naša startna pozicija nije idealna za ostvarivanje tih ciljeva. Prošla kriza pogodila nas je mnogo snažnije nego druge usporedive države. Tada smo već zaostajali za drugim članicama EU iz srednje i istočne Europe (moramo biti pošteni i istaknuti da smo tada bili još pet godina daleko od ulaska u EU), a situacija se nije drastično promijenila ni u posljednjih 12 godina, kako vidimo na grafovima i mapama (izvor za mape i grafove – Eurostat).

Vidimo da smo napredovali za samo jedan postotni bod. Jedino je Slovenija nazadovala, ali tada se nalazila na visokih 91% prosjeka EU, a danas je na 88%. I dalje više od 20 postotnih bodova iznad nas. Vidljiv je napredak drugih država, a i to da su nas pretekle, dostigle ili ostavile znatno iza sebe države poput Rumunjske, Mađarske ili Bugarske. Ponovno, jedan od razloga jest članstvo u EU i puno korištenje jednog proračunskog razdoblja više od nas. Što nas sada čeka? Kako podići gospodarstvo na razinu onih s kojima se uspoređujemo? Kako doći do razine BDP-a Češke, Estonije ili Slovenije? Upravo smo nedavno dobili uvid u strategije i planove razvoja Hrvatske do 2030. godine te tu nalazimo smjernice i očekivanu razinu razvijenosti za deset godina. Nećemo dublje obrađivati sve smjernice i ciljeve, koncentrirat ćemo se samo na onu krovnu - očekivani stupanj razvijenosti u odnosu na EU. Tako se predviđa rast od 9 postotnih bodova u odnosu na 2019., koji bi tada trebao biti na razini 75% prosjeka EU. Kada to stavimo u kontekst, dobivamo razinu na kojoj su već danas države poput Mađarske, Slovačke ili Poljske, a na grafovima se vidi koliko su daleko druge države koje su u rasponu od 80 do iznad 90 posto prosjeka EU. Ovaj broj u prvom trenutku djeluje kao antiklimaks i razočaranje jer se nitko neće lako složiti s ciljem koji nam govori da ni za deset godina nećemo dostići većinu usporedivih država. S druge strane, takve projekcije sadrže izračune koji za taj stupanj razvoja predviđaju prosječan godišnji rast u sljedećih deset godina, a koji je mnogo viši od onog koji smo imali do danas (nemamo precizne projekcije i izračune, ali riječ je o oko 5% rasta godišnje). Tako da treba gledati sve detalje jer je vrag u njima. Što to govori o luksuznom društvu bogatijih potrošača u Hrvatskoj? Govori nam da je pred nama još dug put te da bismo

PROJICIRANI RAST ĆE NAS UČINITI BOGATIJIMA, ALI NIJE SVE NA DRŽAVI I DRŽAVNIM STRATEGIJAMA. PRIVATNI SEKTOR IMA NAJJAČE POLUGE RASTA I RAZVOJA U PRAKTIČNOM SMISLU PROJECTED GROWTH WILL MAKE US RICHER, BUT NOT EVERYTHING DEPENDS ON THE STATE AND STATE STRATEGIES. THE PRIVATE SECTOR HAS THE STRONGEST LEVERS OF GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT IN PRACTICAL TERMS

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projekcije raznih strategija morali uzimati samo kao smjernicu i motivaciju da pokažemo kako se ciljevi mogu i nadmašiti.

Projicirani rast učinit će nas bogatijima, ali nije sve na državi i državnim strategijama. Privatni sektor ima najjače poluge rasta i razvoja u praktičnom smislu, a državne politike i aktivnosti mogu poslužiti, ako su ispravne i kvalitetne, kao poluga uz koju će privatni sektor biti još snažniji.

BUDUĆNOST

Siguran sam da u doglednoj budućnosti možemo razviti luksuzan sadržaj, ali i, uvjetno rečeno, luksuzno društvo u Hrvatskoj. Sve potaknuto pandemijom, krizom i ograničenjima koja su ogolila

Hrvatsku na najljepši mogući način, pruživši nam priliku doživjeti je onakvom kakva bi i trebala biti – prelijepa, bogata, jako skupa i, u konačnici, dostupna gotovo svima nama koji u njoj živimo.

Uvjeren sam da je to moguće i realno, a na putu do toga trebamo biti optimistično i pozitivno realni. I trebamo se držati podalje od krajnosti, posebno dviju neželjenih i suprotstavljenih: pretjerane negative, katastrofičnih najava i prognoza koje su destimulirajuće i demotivirajuće, što za sobom vuče negativan učinak cikličkog pada na svim razinama te toksične pozitive koja tjera na negiranje rizika i opasnosti te ne dopušta racionalnu procjenu stvarnih mogućnosti i potreba kako bi se postigao željeni cilj. Optimistično i realno, i vjerujem da je sve moguće.

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

MARKO JURČIĆ E C O N O M I C A N A LY S T M A R K O J U R Č I Ć TA L KS A B O U T T H E P E R S P E C T I V E AND THE OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE I N C R O AT I A I N T H E C O N T E X T O F LUXURY AND THE ECONOMICS OF L U X U R Y, W I T H A N E M P H A S I S O N C R E AT I N G A S O C I E T Y W H I C H W I L L USE SUCH SERVICES IN THE FUTURE

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s every problem is also an opportunity, so does the COVID-19 pandemic create opportunities which some will seize and some will miss. This year we have achieved results in tourism that we did not expect and which are significantly above the results achieved by the countries that are our biggest competitors in this area. Although the results will continue to be significantly weaker than in previous years, they give us some guidelines and ideas on how to structurally change and improve the organization and offer of our tourism sector, and the potential of luxury tourism is the big part of it.

This year we have had the opportunity to experience Croatia as we see it on postcards and TV commercials - spacious, not overcrowded, attractive, relaxed. We had the opportunity to move along the coast without the pressure of early arrival to places that are crowded and where we have to wait in line to experience the place, people, nature and other things. We had the luxury of time and relaxation that we have not been able to have for a long time. And it is precisely this luxury what is worth much more than mass tourism. A luxury that represents a personal space, that represents one level of exclusivity that we already thought no longer existed.

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The question is how to turn it into a product, how to monetize that experience and luxury properly? Structural change of content and offer, especially in terms of raising the overall quality and experience of our tourism product, cannot be achieved overnight. It takes a long time and a period of several years to create an offer which will bring a new structure of guests and the level of tourist consumption that we desire.

If we look closely, the pandemic, which we are still in, gives us solutions and opportunities to move in that direction. Travel limitations and the need for physical distance when traveling and staying at any location create a platform which provides content that offers the very things we experienced this summer - distance, exclusivity, less crowd at locations, etc. With such a small number of guests, the current business models cannot continue to be as successful as before. A different economy of scale requires a completely different pricing policy, and a different pricing policy requires a different guest structure. Simplified - a small number of guests of lower purchasing power cannot maintain the offer that lived on a much larger number of such guests. If only half of coffee is drunk today compared to last year,

this deficit cannot be compensated by simply increasing the price of coffee by 100% if we intend to have the same guests. On the other hand, for those guests who will pay for this twice as expensive coffee, we need to prepare the suitable offer for their arrival.

The main emphasis is on luxury, luxury content and luxury guests.

How to adapt our tourism to these guests? Less crowds on the coast, exclusivity, peace, safety, beauty and diversity of nature - we either have it or we will have it with the help of pandemic measures and regulations. This has been “God-given” at this moment, and half the work has already been done. But this is just a start, just half the job.

Or a half of the links in a chain, and we know that a chain is as strong as its weakest link.

‘The links’ that are in our hands and on our ‘to do’ list as a society are: changing the structure of the tourist offer - starting with raising the quality of accommodation in a large number of our tourist locations; further development of the offer of experiences - gastro, cultural, adventurous; development of facilities such as golf courses; strengthening the quality and content of marinas and all marinarelated activities; etc. In short - we need to upgrade all those elements which characterize luxury offer so that they are on the same level as other natural and social advantages, which are already at the highest level. The opportunity for this will not last long and we as society must accept and implement it as soon as possible in order to position our country as a new destination for luxury holidays and tourism on a global scale for a longer period of time. Of course, this is not possible at all of our locations, nor is it necessary. However, it is possible to change the image of Croatia as a destination. Playing the cards that are in our favour (natural beauty, safety, diversity) in combination with knowledge of the preferences of the best guests, we are able to raise a number of locations to the level of 5 stars, and all other capacities can be raised by at least one category higher than they are currently in.

THE NEED

While in the context of tourism it is a matter of the principle “build it and it will come”, that principle is not possible in the context of the development of other luxury offers in our society, and outside of the range of the tourist product and service. I start with myself and when we talk about luxury I cannot even look at a broader perspective of our society and the reasons for the existence of the society - our wellbeing. So, I will focus here on this topic as well - what do we achieve by developing the luxury offer of our tourism in a broader context?

Is such an offer a purpose in itself, and how much does it benefit the whole society? Is it worth having the highest level of luxury tourist offer which the vast majority of our citizens will never be able to use?

The nature of luxury is that its availability is limited and not for the broadest layers of users. But the goal for all of us should be, at the very least, that our citizen with an average income can, without any problems and without entering into short-term debts, afford himself and his family the use of tourist facilities that are one step below the luxury category.

Also, how to make luxury more accessible (not more affordable) in our market? How to finally get into a situation where it is normal to see exclusive shops and products on the streets of our cities that we

see in almost all metropolises and centres in the EU? Today, a walk through Prague or Warsaw shows the offer we used to see in Paris and London, but such an offer is still non-existent in our country.

The solution to this issue goes hand in hand with the question of how to ensure that our average citizen uses high quality products and services. Unlike the tourist offer, the rule here is not – “build it and they will come” - but vice versa. Let’s build a rich society so luxury products will find their way to such a market. Opening a prestigious store in Zagreb will probably not attract customers who are not already here, but achieving a high level of well-being of the average consumer will attract a prestigious brand because in that case the brand will finally have someone to sell its product to and still be economically viable and profitable.

This task is much more difficult than the first one (development of luxury tourism). It encompasses comprehensive changes, reforms and changes in the current way of functioning of our economy. It implies the development of the structure of the economy characterized by high-paying jobs, internationalization, high added value, the priority role of the higher education system and open markets towards both capital and people.

This is too short to talk about all the necessary activities, but it should be emphasized that the development of the luxury offer attracts both better jobs and better workplaces. Our location, level of personal security, quality of life factor, diversity, proximity to global centres and accessibility – these are factors which we have not used enough until now in order to improve our economy. While the core industry prioritizes the cost of labour, the level of tax benefits and available incentives, the advanced industries and business activities such as research and development, IT, multinational companies headquarters (HQ, shared service centres, etc.) prioritize quality of life, availability of quality and educated staff etc. Such advanced activities, higher in the added value chain, require satisfied staff and satisfied management - people who value location, quality of life and offer. Attracting and developing such activities and such economy will result in the existence of a luxury offer, but will also encourage the further development of such a luxury offer. It will encourage the immigration of quality and highly paid work force, but again - in parallel with it, also the development of such work force from our local population.

WHERE DO WE STAND AND WHERE ARE WE GOING?

As we all already know, we are not in a good position, i.e. our starting position is not ideal for achieving these goals. The past crisis has hit us far harder than other comparable countries. At that time, we were already lagging behind other EU members from the Central and Eastern EU (we must be honest and point out that we were still 5 years away from joining the EU at the time), and the situation has not changed drastically in the last 12 years, as we see in the graphs and maps (maps and graphs source - Eurostat).

We can see that we have progressed by only one percentage point.

Only Slovenia fell behind, but back then it was at a high 91% of the EU average, while today it is at 88%. Still over 20 percentage points above us. The progress of other countries is visible, and it is also visible that countries like Romania, Hungary or Bulgaria are on the

same level now or much better than us. Again - one of the reasons is the EU membership and full use of one budget period more than us.

What awaits us now? How do we raise our economy to the level of those we compare ourselves to? How to reach the level of GDP of the Czech Republic, Estonia or Slovenia?

We have just recently gained an insight into the strategies and plans for the development of Croatia until 2030, and there we can find guidelines and the expected level of development in ten years’ time.

We will not elaborate on all the guidelines and goals, but we will concentrate only on the final goal - the expected level of development in relation to the EU. There is a growth projection of 9 percentage points compared to 2019, and then it should be at the level of 75% of the EU average.

When we put this in context - this is the level at which countries like Hungary, Slovakia or Poland are already today, while the graphs show how far other countries are, which are in the range of 80 to above 90 percent of the EU average. This number at first seems like an anticlimax and a disappointment because no one will easily agree with the goal that tells us that in ten years we will not reach the level of most of our comparable countries. On the other hand, such projections contain calculations that predict the average annual growth for this level of development in the next 10 years, which is much higher than we have had so far (we do not have precise projections and calculations, but it is about 5% growth per year). So, you need to look at all the details because it is all about the details.

What does this say about the luxury society of more affluent consumers in the Republic of Croatia? It tells us that we still have a long way to go, and that projections of various strategies should be taken only as a guide and motivation to show how goals can be surpassed.

Projected growth will make us richer, but not everything depends on the state and state strategies. The private sector has the strongest levers of growth and development in practical terms, and government policies and activities can serve, if they are the right ones and of good quality, as a lever with which the private sector will be even stronger.

THE FUTURE

I am sure that in the foreseeable future we can develop luxury offer, but also, conditionally speaking, a luxury society in Croatia. All of this was prompted by the pandemic, crisis, and restrictions that exposed Croatia in the most beautiful way possible - giving us the opportunity to experience it as it should be - beautiful, rich, very expensive and ultimately available to almost all of us who live in it.

I am convinced that this is possible and realistic, and on our way to reach that we need to be optimistic and positively realistic. And we need to stay away from the extremes, especially the two unwanted opposing extremes: Excessive negativity and catastrophic forecasts that are destimulating and demotivating with their exaggeration, thus causing the negative effect of a cyclical decline at all levels; and toxic positivity that compels the denial of risks and dangers and does not allow a rational assessment of real possibilities and needs in order to achieve the desired goal. Optimistically and realistically I believe anything is possible.

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V O D E Ć E S VJ E T S K E K O R P O R A C I J E , P O P U T LV M H - a I K E R I N G A , P R I J A V I L E S U PA D P R I H O D A D O Č A K 6 8 % U PRVOJ POLOVICI GODINE, A BROJNI MANJI IGRAČI, OD DIZAJNERA I MODNIH KUĆA DO LANACA VELIKIH ROBNIH K U Ć A , B A N K R O T I R A L I S U Z B O G P O M A N J K A N J A S VJ E Ž E G K A P I TA L A I KO N K R E T N I H N O V Č A N I H Z A L I H A KO J E S U U V R I J E M E K R I Z E N U Ž N E Z A T R Ž I Š N I O P STA N A K

QUO VADIS, MODO? W O R L D L E A D I N G C O R P O R A T I O N S , S U C H A S LV M H A N D K E R I N G , REPORTED DECLINE IN REVENUE OF AS MUCH AS 68% IN THE F I R ST H A L F O F T H E Y E A R , A N D M A N Y S M A L L E R P L AY E R S, F R O M D E S I G N E R S A N D FA S H I O N H O U S E S TO L A R G E D E PA R T M E N T STORE CHAINS, WENT BANKRUPT DUE TO LACK OF FRESH C A P I TA L A N D A D E Q U AT E C A S H STO C K , W H I C H A R E N E C E S S A RY FOR SURVIVAL IN THE MARKET IN TIMES OF CRISIS

N A PI SAO _ W O R DS: SA ŠA J O KA

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FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : PROFIMEDIA

Š

ećući pariškom avenijom Montaigne ili milanskom ulicom Montenapoleone, donedavno je bilo uobičajeno vidjeti redove turista koji čekaju pred trgovinama najprestižnijih modnih kuća, poput Louis Vuittona ili Hermesa, kao najbolji pokazatelj potražnje za njihovim luksuznim proizvodima, ali i ekskluzivnosti i moći tih planetarno obožavanih brendova. I ne samo to – čekanje u redu za torbice koje stoje od 2500 eura pa naviše, a u slučaju Hermèsove birkinice od krokodilske kože s dijamantnom kopčom i nevjerojatnih 140.000 eura, predstavljalo je ultimativni dokaz robusne kupovne moći i bezgraničnih potrošačkih apetita globalnih konzumenata dizajnerske mode.

Ipak, dovoljan je bio samo jedan virus, čije su čestice mikroskopske veličine, da industrijskoga golijata baci na koljena te pokaže svu krhkost i nestabilnost modnog biznisa i sustava kakav smo poznavali prije početka pandemije koronavirusa u proljeće ove turbulentne godine na izmaku. Jer moda je, prije svega, upravo to – biznis u kojem se okreće golem novac u svim segmentima proizvodnje, od poljoprivrednih uzgajivača i proizvođača tkanina do tekstilnih tvornica, luksuznih butika i specijaliziranih medija. Uostalom, ne ubraja se bez

QUO VADIS,

FASHION?

PHYGITAL TSUNAMI

W

alking along Montaigne Avenue in Paris or Montenapoleone Street in Milan, up until recently it was common to see queues of tourists waiting in front of the stores of the most prestigious fashion houses, such as Louis Vuitton or Hermes, which was not only the best indicator of the demand for their luxury products, but also the exclusivity and power of these brands adored by people around the world. And not only that - waiting in line for handbags priced from € 2,500 and up, and in the case of the Hermès Birkin bag made of crocodile leather with a diamond adorned clasp even an incredible € 140,000, was the ultimate proof of massive purchasing power and limitless consumer appetites for fashion design.

However, only one virus with particles of microscopic size was enough to bring industrial Goliath to its knees and show all the fragility and instability of the fashion business and the system as we knew it before the COVID-19 pandemic began in spring of this turbulent year. Because fashion is, above all, just that - a business in which big money is made in all segments of production, from agricultural and fabric producers to textile factories, luxury

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ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY | Uobičajena slika gužvi na ulazu u prestižne butike prije koronakrize – na kineskom i južnoazijskom tržištu svakodnevica je i nakon lockdowna | The usual crowds at the entrances to prestigious boutiques before the corona crisis is an everyday sight in Chinese and South Asian markets even after lockdown

razloga među vodeće i najsnažnije industrije na planetu – ukupni godišnji promet u 2019. godini iznosio je fantastičnih 2,5 bilijuna dolara. Zato je zatvaranje nebrojenih flagship trgovina, concept storeova i robnih kuća tijekom globalnog lockdowna bilo poput uboda nožem u srce izbacivši iz jednadžbe golem cash flow koji predstavlja ključno pogonsko gorivo cijeloga sustava.

Također, vrlo važan faktor koji je, osim trenutačnog prestanka protoka novca, dramatično utjecao na funkcioniranje i reakciju modne industrije jest potpuna neizvjesnost i nemogućnost predviđanja i planiranja, a upravo o tomu ovisi cijeli sustav. Iako su se početkom proljetnog lockdowna gotovo svi dizajneri kleli u reduciranje učestalosti i obujma svojih kolekcija, većina ih je predstavila i pretkolekcije i glavne sezonske kolekcije za 2021. godinu, doduše s ponešto smanjenim brojem lookova, ali i dalje po ustaljenome modnom kalendaru koji je već nekoliko puta dokazao svoju nelogičnost i neučinkovitost. Jedino je Gucci poštovao najavu da će revije odsad održavati samo dvaput godišnje, i to nevezano uz sezonu.

Da bi stvari bile malo jasnije, treba znati što se sve događa u high fashion biznisu u ožujku svake godine – upravo je završeno predstavljanje i naručivanje novih kolekcija za predstojeću jesensko/zimsku sezonu na tjednima mode u New Yorku, Londonu, Milanu i Parizu, u trgovine, koje još od prosinca prodaju proljetnu robu, već stižu ljetni modeli, a tekstilne tvornice punom parom proizvode pretkolekcije za jesen koje u trgovine trebaju stići u srpnju.

Drugim riječima, dućani su puni robe koju tek treba prodati, tvornice su pune robe koju tek treba proizvesti, a nove količine već su naručene i planirane za izradu. A to je samo jedan 40

MANJE OD PET POSTO LUKSUZNIH SATOVA I DRAGULJA U SVIJETU PRODAJE SE ONLINE, A ANALITIČARI PREDVIĐAJU DA ĆE VEĆ 2025. TAJ UDIO PORASTI NA 20 POSTO LESS THAN FIVE PERCENT OF LUXURY WATCHES AND GEMS IN THE WORLD ARE SOLD ONLINE AND ANALYSTS PREDICT THAT AS EARLY AS 2025 IT WILL RISE TO 20 PERCENT

boutiques and media specialized in fashion.

After all, it is not said without reason that it is one of the leading and strongest industries on the planet - the total annual turnover in 2019 was a fantastic $ 2.5 trillion.

That is why the global lockdown, with the closure of countless flagship stores, concept stores and department stores came as a stab in the heart throwing out of the equation the huge cash flow which fuels the entire system.

Also, a very important factor that has, in addition to the immediate cease of cash flow, dramatically affected the functioning and reaction of the fashion industry is the complete uncertainty and inability to predict and plan, and that is the very thing the whole system depends on. Although almost all designers swore to reduce the frequency and volume of their collections at the beginning of the spring lockdown, almost all of them presented pre-collections and major seasonal collections for 2021, though with a slightly reduced number of looks, but still according to the established fashion calendar which proved its illogicality and inefficiency many times. Only Gucci kept their word after announcing that fashion shows will be held only twice a year from now on, regardless of the season.

In order to make things a little clearer, it is essential to know what is going on in the high fashion business in March each year - the presentation and ordering of new collections for the upcoming fall / winter season at fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris has just been completed, stores, which have been selling spring items since December, are already receiving summer collections, and textile factories are working full steam ahead on pre-collections for the autumn, which should arrive in stores in July. In other words, the stores are full of goods yet to be sold, the factories are full of goods yet to be produced, and new quantities have already been ordered and planned for manufacture. And it is only March. Deliveries actually never stop, stores regularly restock and change the items, so even during the lockdown, delivery services have been diligently doing their job tirelessly stacking the shelves of fashion stores.

The stocks, which have accumulated due to the lockdown, pose an equally serious problem and financial burden to both re-

ožujak. Isporuke zapravo nikada ne prestaju, trgovine redovito i često popunjavaju i mijenjaju asortiman pa su i tijekom lockdowna dostavljačke službe revno obavljale svoj posao neumorno puneći police modnih trgovina.

Za lihe koje su se nagomila le zbog lockdowna predstavljaju jednako ozbiljan problem i financijski teret i trgovcima i proizvođačima jer je presječen uobičajeni ritam poslovanja na samom početku nove sezone, kada trgovci računaju na prodaju robe po punim cijenama prije mrskih sezonskih rasprodaja. Koliko zalihe opterećuju normalno funkcioniranje trgovaca i proizvođača najbolje ilustrira podatak da samo u američkoj modnoj industriji svake godine ostaje višak čija se vrijednost procjenjuje i do 50 milijardi dolara, što će u 2020. godini još više porasti kao posljedica zastoja u masovnim kupovnim navikama. H&M trenutačno raspolaže sa zalihama neprodane robe u vrijednosti 4,6 milijardi eura.

Tako su uslijed globalne panike i straha od nepoznate smrtonosne bolesti, kako bi spriječili gomilanje novih zaliha koje je nemoguće prodati, mnogi mass market brendovi odmah otkazali narudžbe u tvornicama zemalja s jeftinom radnom snagom, poput Bangladeša, koje su punom parom proizvodile njihovu novu robu. Pritom su samo tu južnoazijsku državu, po nekim procjenama, oštetili za gotovo pet milijardi dolara, što je za osiromašeno društvo poput njihova ravno povratku u potpuno siromaštvo s perspektivom umiranja od gladi. No nakon što se društvenim mrežama proširila žestoka međunarodna kampanja za podršku bangladeškim radnicima, neodgovorni su brendovi ipak pristali održati riječ te platiti i preuzeti robu koju su naručili.

No u poplavi negativnih i trenutačnih učinaka čija je posljedica potpuni zastoj svih segmenata industrije – koja još nije našla rješenje problema i oni će nastaviti utjecati na skoriju budućnost, ali uz potpuno nova pravila igre koja upravo nastaju – iskristalizirali su se neki ključni problemi od kojih modna industrija već predugo

MARIJA OBRVAN VLASNICA MARIA CONCEPT STOREA THE OWNER OF MARIA CONCEPT STORES

Kako je ova pandemija utjecala na poslovanje vaših trgovina te funkcioniranje biznisa i vašeg tima?

How has the coronavirus pandemic affected the sales and the functioning of the entire business?

Vrlo smo se brzo prilagodili novim okolnostima. I tijekom proljetnog lockdowna imali smo posla zahvaljujući suradnji s web shopom Farfetch, putem kojeg prodajemo svoje artikle diljem svijeta. Kako je rastao interes za online kupnju, naše su djelatnice svakodnevno pakirale i slale robu od Hong Konga do Milana.

Naravno, jedva smo dočekali ponovno otvaranje trgovina i povratak uobičajenom poslovanju.

We quickly adapted to the new circumstances because we were busy even during the spring lockdown thanks to the cooperation with the web shop Farfetch, through which we sell our items worldwide. Interest in online shopping increased day by day, so our employees packed and sent goods everywhere in the world, from Hong Kong to Milan, on daily basis. Of course, we could hardly wait for the reopening of stores and return to normal scope and way of doing business.

Kako su luksuzni dizajnerski brendovi s kojima surađujete reagirali na situaciju prouzročenu virusom?

Svi pokušavaju naći idealan način funkcioniranja – neki su reducirali kolekcije smanjivši broj lookova, puno ih se odlučilo za digitalnu verziju showrooma i online naručivanje, a neki su drastično smanjili broj prodajnih mjesta.

Na naše veliko zadovoljstvo, Maria Store je i dalje prepoznat kao njihov važan partner i zadržali smo sve brendove s kojima uspješno surađujemo više od 10 godina.

Što očekujete od 2021. godine?

Kolekcije za proljeće 2021. naručili smo još u srpnju, upravo smo dovršili narudžbe za ljetnu sezonu, a krajem studenoga Gucci već predstavlja kolekciju za sljedeću zimu. Definitivno je najveća razlika što je većina brendova smanjila broj modela i predstavila kolekcije koje su sažetije i fokusiranije na DNK pojedine modne kuće, a to smatram jako dobrim potezom. Možda najbolji dokaz razumijevanja ozbiljnosti situacije u high fashion retailu jest kvalitetan i fer partnerski odnos koji imamo sa svim našim brendovima te njihova spremnost na suradnju i dogovore u ovim teškim vremenima.

How did the luxury designer brands you work with react to the situation?

Everyone is trying to find their ideal way of working - some have reduced their collections to a smaller number of looks, many have opted for a digital version of the showroom and online orders, and some have drastically reduced the number of stores around the world. To our great satisfaction, Maria Store is still recognized as their important partner and we have kept all the brands which we have been successfully cooperating with for more than 10 years.

What do you expect from the 2021?

We ordered the collections for the spring of 2021 back in July. We have just completed the orders for the summer season, and, at the end of November, Gucci will already present the collection for next winter! Definitely the biggest difference is that most brands have reduced the number of models and presented collections that are more concise and focused on the DNA of the individual fashion house, and I consider that a very good move. The best proof of understanding the seriousness of the situation in high fashion retail is the quality and fair partnership we have with all our brands and their willingness to cooperate and compromise in these difficult times.

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pati. Problemi poput masovne proizvodnje nepotrebne odjeće koju nitko ne kupuje, nelogičnog sustava prikazivanja i isporuka kolekcija u pogrešno godišnje doba za prodaju (uobičajeno je da kaftani i kupaći kostimi stižu u trgovine u prosincu, a zimski kaputi u srpnju jer se isporučuju zapravo tri ili više mjeseci unaprijed za iduću sezonu), ovisnosti o profitu i prevelikoj financijskoj izloženosti brendova s raširenim prodajnim mrežama diljem svijeta, kao i goruće pitanje održivosti i odgovorne proizvodnje koja ne opterećuje i ne uništava okoliš i planet.

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Realno, zahtjevi su golemi, a modna industrija, znamo, nije čuvena po brzini i želji za promjenama. No trenutačna situacija nužno će poslužiti kao katalizator i pokretač procesa kojima je itekako potrebno ubrzanje. Iako je prošlo već gotovo devet mjeseci od početka pandemije, njezini učinci na naše živote i na modu kao luksuz ili potrebu u budućnosti nisu još nikomu potpuno jasni – svakodnevno se događaju promjene, i to u nekim dijelovima svijeta nabolje, a u nekima nagore, a modna se industrija pritom pokušava u hodu prilagoditi novim ograničenjima i uvjetima poslovanja. Tako na kraju godine istodobno svjedočimo i poboljšanju i pogoršanju situacije. Tržišta Kine i južne Azije su se stabilizirala i vratila na brojke gotovo identične ovom razdoblju u 2019. godini, kad su samo kineski državljani bili zaslužni za 40% globalne prodaje i 70% rasta u industriji luksuznih brendova. Istodobno je uz ograničenje kretanja i nova zatvaranja tržišta i granica u Europi i Sjevernoj Americi tržišni oporavak u najmanju ruku spor, a zapravo potpuno nemoguć.

Ne samo da su obustavljene prodaja i proizvodnja u modnoj industriji nego je i cijeli svijet marketinga i medija doveden u pitanje – gotovo svi reklamni budžeti otkazani su do kraja godine, a snimanje novih kampanja prorijedilo se kao nikada dosad. Raskošna snimanja na egzotičnim lokacijama, s mega timovima modnih profesionalaca i vrtoglavo visokim honorarima, odjednom su postala stvar prošlosti.

UROŠ MOMIROVIĆ D I R E K TO R KO M PA N I J E M O N A G E N E R A L M A N A G E R AT M O N A FA S H I O N C O M PA N Y

Kako je ova pandemija utjecala na Monino poslovanje te način funkcioniranja cijelog biznisa i vašeg tima?

How has the coronavirus pandemic affected Mona's business and your team work?

Uz prvi, osnovni utjecaj na zdravlje i sigurnost kupaca i zaposlenih, postoji niz stvari na koje se odrazila ova pandemija: održivost, financije, proizvodnja, opskrba... Mona je, nasreću, stabilna tvrtka koja posluje tri desetljeća. Utemeljena je na zdravim poslovnim načelima i sebe vidim kao društveno odgovornog korporativnoga građanina.

Funkcioniranje nije bilo znatno ugroženo, ali nas je navelo da ozbiljno razmislimo o kriznim situacijama i načinu reorganizacije.

Besides the first and basic impact on the health and safety of our customers and employees, there are a number of things that this pandemic has affected - sustainability, finances, the production chain, supply, etc. Mona is, fortunately, a stable company with three decades of doing business. It is based on sound business principles and I see myself as a socially responsible corporate citizen.

Functioning was not significantly compromised, but it made us think more seriously about crisis situations and the ways to reorganize.

Koje ste promjene uočili u načinu komunikacije s kupcima te njihovim potrošačkim potrebama i navikama?

What changes do you see in the way you communicate with customers and their consumer habits?

Vjerujem da ljudi polako prihvaćaju situaciju i nisu više toliko uplašeni.

Razumijem strah, ali između optimizma i straha trebamo odabrati optimizam.

Primjećujem promjene u dominaciji tehnologije i online poslovanja. Pokrenuli smo web shop za hrvatsko tržište i stranica mona.hr jako je posjećena. Vidim to kao potrebu čovjeka za lijepim koju ništa ne može i ne treba uništiti.

Kako ste se pripremili za 2021. u smislu obujma kolekcija (i ženskih i muških modnih dodataka), marketinških aktivnosti, otvaranja novih prodajnih mjesta i sl.?

Optimistično, radimo kao da ne slušamo vijesti. Za koji dan otvorit ćemo dućan u Zagrebu, u Avenue Mallu, pa ćemo uz onaj u Ilici i u Splitu imati još jedan lokal u koji će sa zadovoljstvom dolaziti i žene i muškarci. Uz pridržavanje mjera i optimizam, imamo razloga vjerovati da će 2021. donijeti dobre rezultate. Za one opreznije dostupni smo na mona.hr.

Kolekcija će biti najbolja dosad!

I believe that people are slowly accepting the situation and we meet less and less frightened people. I understand the fear, but between optimism and fear we need to choose optimism. Like most employers, I see changes in the dominance of technology and doing business online.

We have launched an online shop for the Croatian market and mona.hr website is very popular. I see this as people’s constant need for beauty which nothing can or should ruin.

How did you prepare for the year 2021?

Like I said, I choose optimism over fear.

And not just verbal optimism because we act and work as if nothing happens. In a few days we are opening another store in Zagreb, in Avenue Mall, in addition to the one in Ilica and Mona in Split.. In compliance with the epidemiological measures and with the aforementioned optimism, we have reason to believe that 2021 will bring only good results. We are available online at mona.hr. The collection will be the best one so far.

Agencija za digitalni marketing Digital Luxury Group javlja o smanjenju marketinških budžeta globalnih luksuznih brendova od 30 do čak 80% i ukupnom padu oglašavanja od čak 50% do kraja 2020. godine.

Logično, događaju se i pozitivni pomaci – jedna od najzanimljivijih i najozbiljnijih promjena kojoj trenutačno svjedočimo jest restrukturiranje odnosa modnih medija i brendova te njihov prelazak na nove načine komunikacije. Naravno, motor pokretač te promjene je suvremena tehnologija zaslužna za akceleraciju procesa digitalizacije budućnosti i mode. S jedne strane brendovi prelaze na direktnu komunikaciju s kupcima putem vlastitih web shopova, stranica i društvenih mreža, a s druge tradicionalni modni magazini, čiji opstanak direktno ovisi o oglašivačkim stranicama i dosad su služili kao primarni kanal komunikacije brendova i potrošača, moraju pronaći svoju novu relevantnost u kreativnim multimedijskim rješenjima koja na jedinstven način mogu nuditi svojim klijentima i tako iznova probuditi interes oglašivača. Ipak, brendovi su trenutačno u nešto boljoj poziciji jer tek počinju realizirati vlastite digitalne potencijale i koristiti ozbiljne brojke vjernih pratitelja na društ venim mrežama.

Usporedbe radi, Louis Vuitton, Gucci i Chanel imaju svaki više od 40 milijuna pratitelja na Instagramu, a američki Vogue “samo” 29 milijuna, a njihovo francusko izdanje ima “bijednih” 7 milijuna.

Osim otvaranja ili osvježivanja vlastitih web shopova kako bi izbjegli nepotrebne trgovačke posrednike i povećali profit, brendovi su itekako svjesni važnosti stalnog i uvijek novog vizualnog sadržaja kojim grade svoj imidž te privlače pozornost i vjernost svojih fanova. Važan je dio poslovanja i novo promišljanje načina predstavljanja kolekcija s obzirom na ograničenja vezana uz održavanje revija, čiji su rezultat brojni zanimljivi i kreativni modni filmovi, inspiracijska videa, snimke revija na lokacijama poput šume ili krova zgrade. Drugi važan način komunikacije odnosi se na stvaranje sadržaja za potrebe društvenih mreža koje su, realno, uvijek gladne noviteta – nedavna istraživanja pokazuju da, listajući Instagram, svaki novi post zadrži samo 0,3 djelića sekunde naše pozornosti!

U tom smislu otvara se i sasvim novo trži-

tailers and manufacturers as the usual business rhythm has been cut at the very beginning of the new season, when retailers count on selling goods at full prices before the disliked seasonal sales. To what extent the stocks burden the normal functioning of retailers and manufacturers is best illustrated by the fact that in the American fashion industry alone there is a surplus of stocks estimated at up to $ 50 billion every year, which will increase even more in 2020 as a result of stagnation in mass shopping habits. H&M currently has stocks of unsold goods worth € 4.6 billion.

Due to global panic and fear of an unknown deadly disease, and in order to prevent the accumulation of new stocks that are impossible to sell, many mass market brands immediately cancelled orders in factories of countries with the lowest labour cost, such as Bangladesh, which were producing their new goods at full speed at that moment. In doing so, they have damaged that South Asian country alone, according to some estimates, by almost five billion dollars, which, for an impoverished society like theirs, means return to complete poverty with the prospect of starvation. But after a fierce international campaign to support Bangladeshi workers which spread on social media, irresponsible brands agreed to keep their word and pay and pick up the goods they ordered.

But in the flood of negative and immediate effects resulting in a complete standstill of all segments of the industry, which has not yet found a solution to the problem, and which will continue to affect the near future, but with completely new rules of the game just emerging, some of the key problems the fashion industry has been suffering from for too long came to the surface. Problems such as mass production of unnecessary clothes that no one ever buys, illogical display system and arrival of collections into stores at the wrong time of the year (usually kaftans and swimsuits arrive in stores in December and winter coats in July because they are actually delivered three or more months in advance for the next season), dependence on profit and excessive financial exposure of brands with widespread sales networks around the world, as well as the burning issue of sustainability and responsible production that does not burden or destroy the environment and the planet.

| Tržišta Kine i južne Azije su se stabilizirala i vratila na brojke gotovo identične ovom razdoblju u 2019. godini, kada su samo kineski državljani bili zaslužni za 40% globalne prodaje i 70% rasta u industriji luksuznih brendova | Chinese and South Asian markets stabilized and returned to figures almost identical to this period in 2019, when Chinese citizens only accounted for 40% of global sales and 70% growth in the luxury brand industry. | Gucci već ostvaruje 10% godišnjeg prometa putem vlastitog web shopa, Nike procjenjuje da će se ubrzo gotovo polovica njihova poslovanja odvijati putem interneta, a L'Oréal je na kineskom tržištu već prisutan 100% online. Bez obzira na to koliko i dalje nastavimo kupovati u fizičkim trgovinama po gradskim središtima i u trgovačkim centrima, online prodaja tek grabi svoj dio kolača | Gucci already generates 10% of its annual turnover through its own web shop, Nike estimates that soon almost half of their business will take place online, and L’Oréal is already 100% online in the Chinese market. No matter how much we continue to shop in physical stores in the shopping streets of city centres and malls, online sales is just starting to grab their share of the pie.

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šte za mlade, agilne i nimalo skupe autore, od fotografa do kreativnih direktora i stilista, koji će se spremno staviti u službu najutjecajnijih i najprestižnijih dizajnerskih brendova, a samim time i pridonijeti svježini ideja te modnoj maštovitosti.

Ono što je doživjelo najveći bum i sve više predstavlja novu paradigmu ponašanja i navika jest brutalan rast prometa online trgovina svih vrsta, od lokalnih kafića i restorana do odjeće, mode i luksuza. Sve što vam treba možete naručiti iz sigurnosti vlastitog doma i bez imalo napora, uz dostavu ravno pred vrata, na epidemiološki prihvatljivoj distanci. Gucci već ostvaruje 10% godišnjeg prometa putem vlastitog web shopa, Nike procjenjuje da će se ubrzo gotovo polovica njihova poslovanja odvijati putem interneta, a L'Oréal je na kineskom tržištu već prisutan 100% online. Bez obzira na to koliko i dalje nastavimo kupovati u fizičkim trgovinama po gradskim središtima i u trgovačkim centrima, online prodaja tek grabi svoj dio kolača i sigurno će još rasti sazrijevanjem novih generacija kupaca i razvojem suvremenih tehnologija.

Ukratko, jedan od najperspektivnijih spasonosnih odgovora na pitanje iz naslova “quo vadis, modo?” trenutačno je - digital!

| Koliko zalihe opterećuju normalno funkcioniranje trgovaca i proizvođača najbolje ilustrira podatak da samo američka modna industrija svake godine ostaje s viškovima čija se vrijednost procjenjuje i do 50 milijardi dolara, što će u 2020. godini još više porasti kao posljedica zastoja u masovnim kupovnim navikama. H&M trenutačno raspolaže sa zalihama neprodane robe u vrijednosti 4,6 milijardi eura | To what extent the stocks burden the normal functioning of retailers and manufacturers is best illustrated by the fact that in the American fashion industry alone there is a surplus of stocks estimated at up to $ 50 billion every year, which will increase even more in 2020 as a result of stagnation in mass shopping habits. H&M currently has stocks of unsold goods worth € 4.6 billion.

Realistically speaking, the demands are very high, and the fashion industry is not famous for its speed and desire for change. But the situation with the coronavirus pandemic will necessarily serve as a catalyst and a drive for processes that are in dire need of acceleration.

Although almost nine months have passed since the beginning of the pandemic, its final effects on our life together and on fashion as a luxury or a future necessity are not yet clear to anyone - the situation with the virus is changing day by day; in some parts of the world for the better and in some for the worse, and the fashion industry is trying to adapt to new restrictions and business conditions. Thus, at the end of the year, we are witnessing an improvement and worsening of the situation at the same time. Chinese and South Asian markets stabilized and returned to figures almost identical to this period in 2019, when Chinese citizens only accounted for 40% of global sales and 70% growth in the luxury brand industry. At the same time, with restrictions on movement and new market and border closures in Europe and North America, market recovery is, to say at least, slow, when in fact it is completely impossible.

Not only has sales and production in the fashion industry been suspended, but the entire world of marketing and media has come into question - almost all advertising budgets have been cancelled until the end of the year, and shooting for new campaigns has become less frequent than ever. Lavish shootings in exotic locations, with mega teams of fashion professionals and sky-high fees, have suddenly become a thing of the past. The digital marketing agency Digital Luxury Group reports a reduction in the marketing budgets of world luxury brands from 30 to as much as 80% and an overall drop in advertising of as much as 50% by the end of 2020.

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| Tekst o kretanjima u modnoj industriji donosi Saša Joka, modni insajder i modni urednik magazina Elle | The story about changes in fashion industry is brought by Saša Joka, fashion insider and fashion editor at Elle magazine

Logically, there are also positive developments - one of the most interesting and serious changes we are currently witnessing is the restructuring of the relationship between fashion media and brands and their transition to new ways of communication. Of course, the main drive for this change is modern technology which is responsible for accelerating the process of digitalization of the future and fashion. On the one hand, brands are moving to direct communication with customers through their own web shops, sites and social networks, and on the other hand, traditional fashion magazines, whose survival depends directly on advertising pages and which have so far served as the primary channel of communication between brands and consumers, must find a new way to become relevant in creative multimedia solutions which they can offer to their customers in a unique way and thus reawaken the interest of advertisers. However, the brands themselves are currently in a slightly better position as they are just beginning to realize their own digital potentials and use the high numbers of loyal followers on social media. By comparison, brands Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Chanel each have more than 40 million followers on Instagram, and American Vogue has “only” 29 million, and their French edition has a “miserable” 7 million.

In addition to launching or refreshing their own web shops to avoid unnecessary resellers and increase their own profits, brands are well aware of the importance of constant and always new visual content to build their image and attract the attention and loyalty of their fans.

An important part of the business is a new rethinking of the way collections are presented due to the limitations associated with holding fashion shows, which has brought many interesting and creative fashion films, inspirational videos, videos of fashion shows in locations such as a forest or the roof of the building. Another important way of communication is to create content for the needs of social networks which are always hungry for novelty - recent research shows that while browsing the Instagram feed, each new post gets only 0.3 fractions of a second of our attention! In this sense, a completely new market is opening up for young, agile and inexpensive authors, from photographers to creative directors and stylists, who will be ready to serve the most influential and prestigious designer brands, and thus contribute to the freshness of ideas and fashion imagination.

What has experienced the biggest boom, and is increasingly representing a new paradigm of behaviour and habits, is the brutal growth of online store traffic of all kinds, from local cafés and restaurants to clothing, fashion and luxury. Everything you need can be ordered from the safety of your own home and without any effort, with items delivered right to your doorstep, at an epidemiologically acceptable distance.

Gucci already generates 10% of its annual turnover through its own web shop, Nike estimates that soon almost half of their business will take place online, and L’Oréal is already 100% online in the Chinese market. No matter how much we continue to shop in physical stores in the shopping streets of city centres and malls, online sales is just starting to grab their share of the pie and will surely grow even more in the future with the maturing of new generations of customers and the development of modern technologies.

In short, one of the most promising answers to the question from the title 'Quo vadis, fashion?' currently is – the digital!

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AGENCIJA ZA DIGITALNI MARKETING DIGITAL LUXURY GROUP JAVLJA O UKUPNOM PADU OGLAŠAVANJA OD ČAK 50% DO KRAJA 2020. GODINE LESS THAN FIVE PERCENT OF LUXURY WATCHES AND GEMS IN THE WORLD ARE SOLD ONLINE AND ANALYSTS PREDICT THAT AS EARLY AS 2025 IT WILL RISE TO 20 PERCENT

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THINK BIG

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otel Kazbek, The Pucić Palace, Villa Dubrovnik, Adriana Hvar Spa hotel, hotel Adriatic, Wine hotel & Winery Meneghetti, hotel San Rocco, Valamar Collection Isabella Island Resort, Lešić Dimitri Palace, boutique hotel Alhambra, hotel Bevanda, hotel Navis, luxury boutique hotel Vestibul Palace, D-Resort Šibenik, heritage hotel Life Palace, Martinis Marchi te hotel Bastion više su od prestižnih hrvatskih hotelskih adresa. Svaki od ovih hotela mjesto je koje pruža izniman doživljaj, osvaja goste nasljeđem, pričom, lokacijom, pogledom, dizajnom, ali ponajprije vrhunskom uslugom. Svi su ovi hoteli dio grupacije Stories, Croatian Unique Hotels s čijim smo predsjednikom Nenadom Nizićem razgovarali o sezoni 2020. te planovima za 2021. godinu. Nenad Nizić vlasnik je splitskog luxury boutique hotela Vestibul Palace, osoba koja je zaslužna za kreiranje luksuznog turizma na našoj obali, što potvrđuju brojna međunarodna priznanja i nagrade, a bio je i jedan od sudionika prvog Adria Luxury Summita održanog u jesen 2019. u Zagrebu.

NENAD NIZIĆ, PREDSJEDNIK G R U PA C I J E STO R I E S, C R O AT I A N UNIQUE HOTELS, PREDVODI SCENU MALIH, LUKSUZNIH HOTELA U H R V ATS KO J. Z A A D R I A L U X U RY S O C I E T Y P R E D V I Đ A K R E TA N J A U TURIZMU TE GOVORI O PLANOVIMA ZA TURISTIČKU SEZONU 2021. I P O S L O V A N J U 1 7 U N I K AT N I H U Z D A N I C A H R V ATS KO G H OT E L I J E R ST V A THE PRESIDENT OF THE STORIES C R O A T I A N U N I Q U E H O T E L S G R O U P, NENAD NIZIĆ, IS THE LEADER ON THE SCENE OF SMALL, LUXURY HOTELS IN C R O A T I A . F O R A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T Y, HE PREDICTS TRENDS IN TOURISM AND TA L KS A B O U T P L A N S FO R T H E TO U R I ST SEASON 2021 AND THE BUSINESS MANAGEMENT OF 17 UNIQUE PILLARS OF T H E C R O AT I A N H OT E L I N D U ST RY RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: MARTINA R A FA EL I FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : P RIVATNI ALB U M, PR OF I MED I A

Između dva vala pandemije doživjeli smo možda i nikad kraću turističku sezonu. Koliko se od očekivanog, onog prvotnog te COVID-19 poslovnog turističkog plana uspjelo realizirati unutar grupacije Stories, Croatian Unique Hotels?

Svaki plan u sezoni za nama bio je izazovan za ostvarenje, bilo je zahtjevno nositi se s predviđanjima te realnom situacijom izazvanom koronavirusom.

Sezona je bila kratka, ali iznenađujuće dobra za sjeverni Jadran i Istru, gdje su hoteli iz naše grupacije ostvarili popunjenost i do 80% uspoređujući s prošlogodišnjim rezultatima. Hoteli u Dalmaciji i Dubrovniku bilježe nižu popunjenost, od 40 do 50%, primarno zato što su to destinacije koje posjećuju avioputnici, a letovi ove sezone nisu bili dostupni kao inače. Nove mjere, svrstavanja Hrvatske na narančastu i crvenu listu, uzrok su skromnog poslovanja u rujnu i listopadu.

Koja je vaša procjena vezana uz poslovanje u 2021. godini?

Već je ova sezona pokazala da su gosti koji su odabrali neki od hotela Stories grupacije, europski gosti

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koji su planirali putovanja na daleke destinacije, ali zbog pandemije su na kraju ostali na europskom kontinentu te odabrali Hrvatsku i naše hotele.

Razlog su svakako blizina, ali i wellbeing okruženje te visoka razina usluge. Takav profil gostiju očekujemo i u 2021., za koju Hrvatska turistička zajednica predviđa popunjenost od 65%. Predviđanja se temelje na informacijama iz predstavništava diljem svijeta. Osobno smatram da je to ambiciozno očekivanje, ali u prilog tome ide i regulacija pravila na razini Europske unije kojom će se definirati mjere vezane uz turizam i putovanja. Tim mjerama više neće biti moguće da vas neka zemlja stavi na crvenu listu prema vlastitoj prosudbi.

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Sa svojim hotelima član ste međunarodnih grupacija. Postoje li savjeti, preporuke i vizije za bližu budućnost u segmentu turizma i hospitalityja?

Zbog aktivnosti u grupaciji Small Luxury Hotels of the World u tjednom smo kontaktu s kolegama. U raznim webinarima razrađuju se strategije i korisno je znati da vlada velik interes za Hrvatskom.

Naglasak razgovora je na komercijalnim prioritetima i planovima jer se na osnovi tih informacije kreira profil krajnjega gosta koji će odlučiti posjetiti nas pa se tako radi na pružanju podrške svakoj regiji.

Pogođeni situacijom, Small Luxury Hotels of the World razvili su koristan projekt, inicijativu pod nazivom “Stay Small, Stay Safe” kojom se komuniciraju mjere za očuvanje zdravlja za svih 520 SLH

otel Kazbek, The Pucić Palace, Villa Dubrovnik, Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, Hotel Adriatic, Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery, Hotel San Rocco, Valamar Collection Isabella Island Resort, Lešić Dimitri Palace, Boutique Hotel Alhambra, Hotel Bevanda, Hotel Navis, Luxury Boutique Hotel Vestibul Palace, D-Resort Šibenik, Heritage Hotel Life Palace, Martinis Marchi and Hotel Bastion are more than just prestigious Croatian hotels. Each of these hotels is a place that provides an exceptional experience, captivates guests with its heritage, story, location, view, design but above all top service. All of these hotels are part of the Stories Group, Croatian Unique Hotels, with whose president Nenad Nizić we talked about the season 2020 and plans for 2021.

Nenad Nizić is the owner of the Split Luxury Boutique Hotel Vestibul Palace. He is the one responsible for creating luxury tourism on our coast which is confirmed by numerous international recognitions and awards. Nizić was one of the participants in the first Adria Luxury Summit held in autumn 2019 in Zagreb.

In the period between the two waves of the pandemic, we experienced what was, perhaps, a never shorter tourist season. To what extent was the expected, original plan realized and how much of the Covid-19 business plan did you manage to realize within the Stories Group- Croatian Unique Hotels?

Every plan in the recent season was challenging to realize. It was demanding to deal with the predictions and the real situation caused by Covid-19. The season was short, but surprisingly good for the northern part of the Adriatic and Istria, where the hotels from our group achieved occupancy of up to 80% compared to last year’s results. Hotels in Dalmatia and Dubrovnik recorded lower occupancy, from 40 to 50% primarily due to the fact that these are destinations visited by air passengers, and flights this season were not available as usual. The new measures, placing Croatia on the orange and red lists, are the reason for modest results in September and October.

What is your business prediction for the year 2021?

This 2020 season has shown that the guests who chose some of the Stories Group hotels are European guests who planned trips to distant destinations, but who, due to the pandemic, eventually stayed on the European continent and chose Croatia and our hotels. The reason is certainly the proximity, but also the wellbeing environment and the high service we offer. We expect such a guest profile in 2021, for which the Croatian National Tourist Board predicts an occupancy rate of 65%. Predictions are based on information from representative offices around the world. Personally, I think this is an ambitious expectation, but it is also supported by the regulation of rules at the level of the European Union, which will regulate measures related to tourism and travel. With these measures, it will no longer be possible for a country to put another country on the red list according to their own estimation.

hotela u 90 zemalja. Prednost je ovih hotela što imaju do pedeset soba pa i inače pružaju visoke sigurnosne standarde. Projekt se provodi u suradnji s Global Biorisk Advisory Council (GBAC) koji svakom hotelu izdaje GBAC STAR™ akreditaciju. Tako se gost stimulira da odabire hotele iz ove grupacije, a treba istaknuti da su SML gosti iz luksuznog segmenta, oni koji u hotelima ostaju približno deset dana.

Nedavno je istraživanje Booking.coma ukazalo na nove trendove u putovanjima, pa tako i na pojam relaxury. Ono pokazuje da će čak 61% ispitanika koji će se odlučiti na putovanje u 2021. birati priliku za odmor i uživanje, ali isključivo u kategoriji luksuznog smještaja. Po čemu se Hrvatska ističe među

You are a member of international hotel groups. Are there any tips, recommendations, visions for the near future in the segment of tourism and hospitality?

Through activities in the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, we are in contact with colleagues weekly. Strategies are being developed in various webinars and it is useful to know that there is great interest in Croatia. Within the group, the emphasis of the conversation is put on commercial priorities and plans, because with this information, a profile of the guest who will decide to visit us is created, so we work on providing support to each region. The Small Luxury Hotels of the World, affected by the situation, have developed a useful project, an initiative called ‘Stay Small, Stay Safe’ through which we communicate health measures for all 520 SLH hotels in 90 countries around the world. The advantage of these hotels is that they have up to fifty rooms and generally provide high safety standards. The project is implemented in cooperation with the Global Biorisk Advisory Council (GBAC), which issues GBAC STAR™ accreditation to each hotel. In this

SEZONA JE BILA KRATKA, ALI IZNENAĐUJUĆE DOBRA ZA SJEVERNI JADRAN I ISTRU, GDJE SU HOTELI IZ NAŠE GRUPACIJE OSTVARILI POPUNJENOST I DO 80% USPOREĐUJUĆI S PROŠLOGODIŠNJIM REZULTATIMA THE SEASON WAS SHORT, BUT SURPRISINGLY GOOD FOR THE NORTHERN PART OF THE ADRIATIC AND ISTRIA, WHERE THE HOTELS FROM OUR GROUP ACHIEVED OCCUPANCY OF UP TO 80% COMPARED TO LAST YEAR’S RESULTS

ostalim zemljama i što bi bio dovoljno jak razlog za ponovni dolazak luksuznih gostiju?

Ističemo se ponajprije vrhunskom uslugom, luksuznim smještajem te pružanjem osjećaja gostima da su na sigurnom, uz naglašenu pažnju koja se polaže na privatnost svakoga gosta. To je ono što se očekuje.

Kako bismo i ove sezone zahvalili našim gostima, uveli smo izdavanje vaučera za čiju su vrijednost naši gosti mogli uživati u večerama, spa tretmanima, razgledavanju grada i slično, čime smo opravdavali zadržavanje cijena, ali i dodatno pokazali brigu za gosta. Gosti to cijene, rado se vraćaju te vas rado i preporučuju.

Izjavili ste u nedavnom razgovoru da iz ovakvih situacija kao pobjednici izlaze oni s dugoročnom vizijom. Koja je vaša vizija?

Iz ovakvih situacija kao pobjednici zasigurno izlaze oni koji imaju dugoročne vizije i stabilno poslovanje.

Promjene su događaju na globalnom planu pa je, kao i u svim ostalim industrijama, potrebno zadržati maksimalnu fleksibilnost i neprestano se prilagođavati promjenama, a da pritom ne ugrožavate kvalitetu i posebnost usluge.

way, the guest is stimulated to choose hotels from this group, and it should be noted that SML guests from the luxury segment are those who stay in hotels for approximately ten days.

A recent research by booking.com pointed to new trends in travel, including the term relaxury, which indicates that as many as 61% of respondents said that, if they decide to travel in 2021, it will be a trip that provides an opportunity to relax and enjoy, but only in the luxury accommodation category. What makes Croatia stand out from other countries and what would be a strong enough reason for the return of luxury guests?

Primarily with top service, luxury accommodation and providing guests with the feeling that they are safe, with an emphasis on the privacy of each guest. That is what is expected. And in order to thank our guests this season, we introduced the issuance of vouchers for the value of which our guests could enjoy dinners, spa treatments, city tours, etc., which justified the retention of our prices, but also showed additional care for the guest. Guests appreciate it, love to come back and gladly recommend us.

You stated in a recent conversation that those with a long-term vision emerge victorious from such situations. What is your vision?

Those who have long-term visions and stable business operations certainly emerge victorious from such situations. Changes are happening on a global scale, so as in all other industries, it is necessary to maintain maximum flexibility and constantly adapt to changes, without compromising the quality and uniqueness of the service.

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JE LI SMANJENJE TROŠKOVA MARKETINGA MUDRO U DOBA K R I Z E T E KO J I S U A L AT I POTREBNI ZA KVALITETNU (I BRZU) PRILAGODBU NA T R Ž I ŠT U, OT K R I V A K R E AT I V N I DIREKTOR AGENCIJE B R U K E TA & Ž I N I Ć & G R E Y N A PI SA LA _ W O R DS: DA N IJ EL A P ETROV FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO S: BER ISL A VA P ICEK , SH UT T ERSTOCK

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remium proizvodi uvijek će imati svoje kupce, bez obzira na krizu. Međutim, ne postoji univerzalno prihvaćen razlog zašto je to tako. Za Nikolu Žinića, kreativnog direktora agencije Bruketa&Žinić&Grey, luksuz je oblik ekscesa, a zbog pandemije koja je iz temelja uzdrmala cijeli svijet, pa tako i tržište luksuza, smatra on, svi postajemo puno praktičniji i odgovornije upravljamo onim što imamo.

Recesijska 2008. godina pokazala je da je upravo to tržište najotpornije na potrese jer je pretrpjelo najmanje gubitke – oko 7% na svjetskoj razini. Može li se to ponoviti i ovaj put, nitko ne može prognozirati. No uzmemo li u obzir podatak koji je objavila konzultantska kuća Boston Consulting Group da je na vrhuncu pandemije – od ožujka do svibnja – prodaja luksuzne robe bila 75% niža nego u istom razdoblju lani, možemo zaključiti da nitko više nije nedodirljiv.

“Kriza je samo promjena. Kada gledate stvari iz tog kuta, puno ih je lakše prihvatiti”, optimističan je Nikola Žinić. Ipak, priznaje da je pandemija utjecala i na njihovo poslovanje, baš kao i na sve ostale djelatnosti.

“Onaj kojemu je najvažnije pokazivati status to će činiti uvijek, bez obzira na krizu, osim ako mu je on ugrožen. Ostale je pandemija naučila optimalno trošiti resurse. Kada govorimo o tvrtkama, upravo to čini razliku između ozbiljnih i neozbiljnih”, kaže marketinški stručnjak napominjući da je njegova agencija tijekom pandemije postala agilnija.

THE CRISIS IS JUST A CHANGE IS IT WISE TO REDUCE MARKETING COSTS IN TIMES O F C R I S I S A N D W H AT TO O L S ARE NEEDED FOR QUALITY ( A N D FA ST ) A D J U ST M E N T I N T H E M A R K E T I S W H AT T H E C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R O F T H E A G E N CY B R U K E TA & Ž I N I Ć & G R AY REVEALS IN AN INTERVIEW

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remium products will always have their customers regardless of the crisis. However, there is no universally accepted reason as to why this is so. For Nikola Žinić, the creative director of the agency Bruketa&Žinić&Gray, luxury is a kind of excess, and, due to the pandemic which shook the whole world, including the luxury market, we are all becoming much more practical and more responsible in managing what we own.

The recession year of 2008 showed that this market is the most resistant to those shake-ups because it suffered the least loss - about 7% worldwide. Whether this can happen again this time is something no one can predict. But if we consider the data published by the consulting firm Boston Consulting Group which say that at the peak of the pandemic, from March to May, sales of luxury goods were 75% lower than in the same period last year, we can conclude that no industry is untouchable any longer.

“The crisis is just a change. When you look at things from that perspective, it is much easier to accept them”, says Nikola Žinić with optimism. However, he admits that the pandemic affected their business, as well as all the others.

“The one for whom it is most important to show his social status will always do so, regardless of the crisis, unless that status is at risk. The pandemic has taught the others to spend resources optimally. When we talk about companies, this is the very thing which makes the difference between companies which are serious

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about the business and those which are not”, the marketing expert says adding that his agency became more agile during the pandemic.

“Before, we could afford to experiment with some agile principles, and now we simply started applying them right away. This, of course, primarily applies to working from home, which came about abruptly, but we quickly adapted to it. We saw the benefits of this way of working both for us as a company and for our employees. In addition, the pandemic has taught us to manage resources more rationally, thanks to which we are reducing costs”, Žinić says.

In extraordinary circumstances, those who respond well to cha nge sur vive. Thus, t he agenc y Bruketa&Žinić&Gray changed the way of working with clients and offered them collaboration tools, i.e. “forced” them to change short-term and long-term communication strategies.

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“The whole point of evolution is change and those societies that adapt better survive. Prior to the pandemic, we developed a set of tools to help clients respond to business challenges. They most often concern rapid digitalization, which puts a test of timely responding before every organization, i.e. constant keeping in step with changes. That way, even in the current situation, we help clients to respond to new circumstances with a certain transformation”, says Žinić and adds that “It is important to emphasize that the tool must not be an end in itself. It should primarily be seen as a way of thinking which allows us to look at things from a different angle and getting to the heart of the problem which is bothering us, as well as a way of rethinking what we consider a problem and perhaps even a way of redefining it. It often turns out that something we initially considered a problem is not a problem at all. So, we define it first, and then we find creative ways to solve it. We could say that these tools help us shorten the path to creative solutions, which practically takes only 48 hours. Afterwards, of course, with a new set of tools, we question the possibility and cost-effectiveness of implementing these solutions.”

Despite the circumstances of the “new normal”, by using quality strategies focused on the target audience we can encourage those who can afford it to spend more. But even they, as it seems, are not prone to excessive spending because sales have fallen in most market segments, even in the luxury segment.

As Žinić explains, in times of crisis we are more careful because the future is uncertain, so we are more inclined to accumulate the things we need for basic survival.

“Prije smo si mogli dopustiti eksperimentiranje s nekim agilnim principima, a sada smo ih jednostavno odmah počeli primjenjivati. To se, naravno, prije svega odnosi na rad od kuće do kojeg je došlo naglo, ali smo mu se brzo prilagodili.

Uvidjeli smo prednosti takvog načina rada i za nas kao tvrtku i za naše zaposlenike. Osim toga, pandemija nas je naučila racionalnije raspolagati resursima, a zahvaljujući tomu smanjujemo troškove”, ističe Žinić.

U izvanrednim okolnostima opstaju oni koji dobro reagiraju na promjene. Tako je i agencija Bruketa&Žinić&Grey promijenila način rada s klijentima te im ponudila kolaboracijske alate, odnosno potaknula ih na promjenu kratkoročnih i dugoročnih komunikacijskih strategija.

“Smisao evolucije je promjena i opstaju ona društva koja se bolje prilagođavaju.

Prije pandemije razvili smo set alata kojima pomažemo klijentima odgovoriti na poslovne izazove. Oni se najčešće odnose na rapidnu digitalizaciju koja pred svaku organizaciju postavlja test pravodobnog reagiranja, odnosno stalnoga kretanja ukorak s promjenama. Tako i u aktualnoj situaciji pomažemo klijentima da uz određenu transformaciju odgovore na nove okolnosti”, govori Žinić i dodaje: “Važno je naglasiti da alat ne smije sam sebi biti svrha. Treba ga prije svega promatrati kao način razmišljanja koji nam omogućuje sagledavanje stvari iz drugog kuta i dolazak do srži problema koji nas muči, kao i preispitivanje onoga što smatramo problemom, a možda i njegovo redefiniranje. Često se pokaže da nešto što smo u početku smatrali problemom to uopće nije. Dakle, najprije ga definiramo, a zatim pronalazimo kreativne načine rješavanja. Može se reći da nam ti alati pomažu skratiti put do kreativnih rješenja, koji praktički traje samo 48 sati.

Poslije, naravno, novim setom alata propitujemo mogućnost i isplativost realizacije tih rješenja.”

Unatoč okolnostima novog normalnog, kvalitetnim strategijama fokusiranim na ciljanu publiku možemo potaknuti na potrošnju one koji si to, naravno, mogu priuštiti. No ni oni, čini se, nisu skloni pretjeranom trošenju jer je prodaja pala u većini tržišnih segmenata, pa i u onomu luksuznom. Kako objašnjava Žinić, u razdoblju krize smo oprezniji jer je budućnost neizvjesna pa smo skloniji gomilati stvari koje nam trebaju za osnovno preživljavanje.

Osim što razboritije trošimo, promijenio se i način na koji kupujemo, pa tako sve češće biramo online trgovine. Prema nekim pokazateljima, luksuzni brendovi su se lošije prilagodili promjenama te su ostvarili slabije rezultate u prodaji putem interneta nego drugi. Manje od desetine ukupnog prometa takvih brendova ostvareno je online. Bez obzira na digitalni trend i život koji se prelio u virtualni svijet u gotovo svim svojim segmentima, Žinić vjeruje da ćemo se vratiti starim navikama kada to bude moguće, ali uz veću dozu opreza.

“Kada govorimo o internetskim trgovinama, kao i o bilo čemu drugome, ne trebamo generalizirati. Svaki je brend priča za sebe. Nekima je potrebna kombinacija online i fizičke prodaje, a nekima odgovara samo jedan od tih načina. Na odluku o kupnji utječe niz faktora, primjerice vrijeme potrebno za pristizanje paketa, iskustvo kupnje… Ljepota je našeg posla i u tome što možemo pozorno promatrati ponašanje ljudi te predviđati i uočavati neke buduće trendove”, pojašnjava marketinški stručnjak.

Istraživanja provedena prije ove krize pokazala su da mnoge tvrtke nemaju strategiju privlačenja novih kupaca. No kakva bi ona u ovim izazovnim vremenima uopće trebala biti i je li politika rezanja troškova marketinga (što mnogi prvo čine u krizi) samo pad u dublji ponor?

“Tvrtke koje su dobro poslovale prije krize, koje su razmišljale strateški i istraživale tržište, to čine i u doba krize i nakon nje i zato su uspješne. One koje to ne

In addition to spending more wisely, the way we buy has also changed, so we are increasingly choosing online stores. According to some indicators, luxury brands have adapted less to change and performed worse in online sales than others. Less than a tenth of the total turnover of such brands was realized online. Regardless of the digital trend and life which has shifted to the virtual world in almost all its segments, Žinić believes that we will return to the old habits when possible, but with greater caution.

“When talking about online stores, as well as about everything else, we should not generalize. Each brand is a story unto itself. Some brands need a combination of online and physical sales, and for some only one of these fits. The decision to buy is influenced by a number of factors, such as the time required to receive the package, the shopping experience, etc. The good thing about our business is that we can carefully observe people’s behaviour and predict and spot some future trends”, the marketing expert explains.

Research conducted before this crisis has shown that many companies do not have a strategy for attracting new customers. But the question is what the strategy should even be like in these challenging times, and whether the policy of cutting marketing costs (which many do first in a crisis) is just a fall deeper into the abyss?

čine, trebale bi početi jer inače nemaju svijetlu budućnost. Često se u krizi najprije režu marketinški budžeti, ali ako ne komunicirate o svome brendu, ne možete ni doprijeti do svojih potrošača, stoga se postavlja pitanje kako ćete izići iz krize. Pametniji brendovi strateški optimiziraju svoje budžete u odnosu na prodajne rezultate te pokušavaju pronaći nove, jeftinije i kreativnije načine dolaska do potrošača.

Ponekad njihove nove strategije prelaze uobičajene okvire. Ne kažem da ne treba rezati troškove kada padaju prihodi jer cilj je opstati, a marketinški budžeti uvijek su trn u oku, ali optimiziranje budžeta treba se činiti na temelju kvalitetne strategije”, kaže Žinić.

Na pitanja trebaju li se marketinške kampanje zbog novih okolnosti obraćati publici drukčije nego dosad te smatra li da je potrebno prema publici pokazati više empatije, spremno odgovara: “Svaki je brend priča i svijet za sebe pa je teško generalizirati što je za koga dobro i u kojem trenutku. Treba uzeti u obzir kakav je brend, što on zastupa, koje su njegove vrijednosti... Naravno da bi bilo čudno da neka tvrtka koja prije nije bila empatična to odjednom postane.

Dobri brendovi znaju kako, kada i u kojoj mjeri treba komunicirati. Uvijek je najbolje sve raditi s mjerom, biti dosljedan i vjeran sebi”, zaključuje Žinić.

“Companies which did well before the crisis, which used strategic thinking and researched the market do so even during and will do it after the crisis, and that is the reason why they are successful. Those who do not should start because otherwise they will not have a bright future. Often in a crisis, marketing budgets are cut first, but if you do not communicate about your brand, you cannot even reach your consumers, so the question is how you will get out of the crisis. Smarter brands strategically optimize their budgets in relation to sales results and try to find new, cheaper and more creative ways to reach consumers. Sometimes their new strategies go beyond the usual framework. I am not saying that costs should not be cut when revenues begin to fall because the goal is to survive, and marketing budgets are always a thorn in the side, but budget optimization should be done based on a quality strategy”, Žinić says. When asked whether marketing campaigns should address the audience differently than before due to new circumstances, and whether he thinks it is necessary to show more empathy towards the audience, he readily answers that “Each brand is a story and a world unto itself, so it is hard to generalize what is good and what is bad for a brand and at what point.

One should take into account what kind of a brand is it, what it represents, what its values are, etc. Of course, it would be strange for a company which was not empathetic before to suddenly become compassionate. Good brands know how, when and to what extent to communicate. It is always best to do everything in moderation, to be consistent and true to yourself”, Žinić concludes.

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ČESTO SE POKAŽE DA NEŠTO ŠTO SMO U POČETKU SMATRALI PROBLEMOM TO UOPĆE NIJE. DAKLE, PRVO GA DEFINIRAMO, A ZATIM PRONALAZIMO KREATIVNE NAČINE ZA NJEGOVO RJEŠAVANJE. IT OFTEN TURNS OUT THAT SOMETHING WE INITIALLY CONSIDERED A PROBLEM IS NOT A PROBLEM AT ALL. SO, WE DEFINE IT FIRST, AND THEN WE FIND CREATIVE WAYS TO SOLVE IT

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

IVAN KOVAČIĆ

V O D E Ć I S VJ E T S K I POSREDNIK U PROMETU LUKSUZNIM NEKRETNINAMA, PRESTIŽNI CHRISTIE’S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A L E STAT E , P U T E M R E M I N G T O N R E A LT Y H R V ATS K A ST I G A O J E I N A NAŠE TRŽIŠTE. IZVRŠNI DIREKTOR IVAN KOVAČIĆ NA ADRIA LUXURY SUMMITU SUDJELOVAO J E N A PA N E L U L U X U RY INVESTMENTS, A U I N T E R VJ U U K O J I DONOSIMO U SURADNJI S MAGAZINOM STORYBOOK NAJAVLJUJE RAZVOJ H R V ATS K E K A O P R E M I U M DESTINACIJE

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MORAMO SE OKRENUTI MASTER PROJEKTIMA R A Z G OVA R A LA _I N TER VI EW ED BY: ANA HERCEG/STORY B OOK FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO S: D R A ŽE N KOKORIĆ, ROB ERT GAŠPERT I REMINGTON REALTY HRVATSK A

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to dolazak tvrtke Christie’s Inter­n­a­ tional Real Estate znači za Hrvatsku i što prodavači i kupci luksuznih nekret­ nina mogu novo očekivati od vas?

Dolazak brenda kao što je Christie’s International Real Estate na hrvatsko tržište ima potencijalno veliku važnost za daljnji razvoj nekretninske i posredno turističke industrije.

Otvaranjem lokalnog predstavništva brenda, koji više od 250 godina pruža svoje usluge najistaknutijim i najimućnijim pojedincima u svijetu, Hrvatska dobiva sjajnu priliku da se pozicionira na svjetskoj karti luksuznih destinacija te da istodobno sudionici na tržištu dobiju iznimnu globalnu platformu za marketing visokovrijednih nekretnina.

Cilj nam je dovesti u Hrvatsku globalni know-how i spojiti ga s našim detaljnim poznavanjem lokalnog tržišta te otvoriti nova emitivna tržišta, kao i nove kanale i strategije za marketing i prodaju nekretnina.

Kroz više od 940 ureda u 49 zemalja i christiesrealestate.com internetsku stranicu, koja bilježi više od 52 milijuna posjeta godišnje, pružamo nekretninama globalnu izloženost bez premca. Naši klijenti mogu očekivati najvišu razinu personalizirane usluge u kojoj Christie’s klijenti uživaju već više od 250 godina.

Prodavateljima pružamo svjetsku razinu globalne marketinške promocije kombinacijom tradicionalnih i modernih medija te marketinških i PR strategija.

WE NEED TO TURN TO MASTER PROJECTS THE WORLD’S LEADING INTERMEDIARY IN L U X U RY R E A L E STAT E , T H E P R E ST I G I O U S C H R I ST I E ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A L E STAT E , H A S REACHED OUR MARKET THROUGH REMINGTON R E A LT Y C R O A T I A . E X E C U T I V E D I R E C T O R I V A N KO V A Č I Ć PA R T I C I PAT E D I N T H E ‘ L U X U RY I N V E ST M E N TS ’ PA N E L AT T H E A D R I A L U X U RY S U M M I T, A N D I N T H E I N T E R V I E W, H E T A L K S ABOUT THE CURRENT DEMAND FOR SPECIAL, U N I Q U E R E A L E STAT E I N O U R C O U N T RY A N D T H E F U T U R E D E V E L O P M E N T O F C R O AT I A A S A P R E M I U M D E ST I N AT I O N

Kakav je trenutačno interes za jedinstvenim i luksu­ znim nekretninama u nas i što treba učiniti kako bi se taj segment tržišta luksuza razvio?

Volumen interesa, kao i broj realiziranih kupoprodaja, možda nije onakav kakav bismo željeli, ali postoji interes za luksuznim i superluksuznim nekretninama.

Taj je interes dodatno potaknut situacijom s pandemijom bolesti COVID-19 koja mijenja ponašanje vlasnika, odnosno kupaca nekretnina kojima prioritet postaje sigurnost, i to posebice u smislu da uz što manje rizika mogu doći u svoj drugi dom na odmor. U ovoj situaciji blizina srednje Europe postaje za Hrvatsku iznimno velika kompetitivna prednost u odnosu na druge konkurentske zemlje Mediterana, koje su uglavnom dostižne avionskim prijevozom. Kako bi interes za luksuznim segmentom rastao, trebat će početi stvarati nekretninske proizvode s novom paradigmom i s drugačijim promišljanjem pojma luksuza. Također će trebati potaknuti snažniju regulaciju industrije nekretnina i posljedično snažniju profesionalizaciju developerske, kao i drugih struka uključenih u tržište. Bez uvođenja beneficija za strane kupce nekretnina, kao i bez dubljeg promišljanja optimalne porezne strategije u odnosu na nekretninsku industriju, bit će teško očekivati znatnije povećanje volumena kupoprodaje luk-

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hat does the arrival of Christie’s International Real Estate on the market mean for Croatia and what are the novelties sellers and buyers of luxury real estate can expect?

The arrival of a brand such as Christie’s International Real Estate on the Croatian market is potentially of great importance for the further development of the real estate and, indirectly, of tourism industry. By opening a local representative office of a brand which has been providing its services to the most prominent and wealthy individuals in the world for more than 250 years, Croatia gets a great opportunity to position itself on the world map of luxury destinations and at the same time for market partakers to get an exceptional global platform for high-value real estate marketing. Our goal is to bring global know-how to Croatia and combine it with our detailed knowledge of the local market and open new emitting markets, as well as new channels and strategies for marketing and selling real estate. In more than

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suznih nekretnina. Kako bismo kao destinacija i tržište postali regionalno i globalno konkurentniji, treba se odmaknuti od trenutačno dominantne strategije točkastog razvoja prostora i okrenuti se master projektima koji će budućim vlasnicima nekretnina omogućiti razinu življenja i iskustava na koje su navikli, koje očekuju i koje su spremni platiti. Razvoj projekata pod brendovima kao što su Four Seasons, Aman, Armani, Bulgari, Marriott, Hilton, Baccarat i dr. također može znatno pomoći bržem razvoju Hrvatske kao luksuzne destinacije.

Koji profil klijenata naginje našem podneblju? I ka­ kvog su ukusa? Traže li se više kamene, autohtone kuće ili moderne vile?

Dosad su kupci u Hrvatskoj uglavnom dolazili iz obližnjih destinacija koje su povijesno gravitirale ovim krajevima. Kupci s emitivnih tržišta poput Njemačke, Austrije, Italije, Češke i ostalih zemalja u okruženju uglavnom su doživljavali Hrvatsku kao niskobudžetnu destinaciju pa su posljedično i potražnju u Hrvatskoj stvarali kupci koji su tražili nekretninske proizvode niže do srednje vrijednosti. Iznimke u takvoj vrsti potražnje uglavnom su činili kupci s područja bivšeg SSSR-a i hrvatska dijaspora jer su iskazivali interes za luksuznijim proizvodima. Međutim, tržište je trenutačno u fazi transformacije. Svjedoci smo stvaranja sve kvalitetnijih nekretninskih proizvoda koji sve češće čine dio manjih master projekata. Potražnja od one za tradicionalnom, klasičnom ili autohtonom gradnjom sve brže i znatnije skreće u smjeru modernih luksuznih objekata s velikim staklenim površinama i bogatim unutarnjim volumenima prostorija. Ta promjena predstavlja uobičajen i prirodan proces sazrijevanja destinacije i njezine transformacije iz niskog ili srednje vrijednog u visokovrijedni segment nekretninskih i turističkih proizvoda.

Razvijamo li se barem u budućnosti u tom smjeru?

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Trenutačno je broj istinski luksuznih projekata na tržištu prilično ograničen. Veći izazov u ovom trenutku predstavlja način na koji razvijamo prostor, u većini slučajeva stihijski bez jasnog promišljanja prostora i stvaranja preduvjeta za izgradnju nekretninskih proizvoda veće vrijednosti. Točkastim razvojem prostora jednostavno nećemo moći stvoriti ozbiljnije nekretninske proizvode koji traže drukčije promišljanje cijelog procesa razvoja nekretnina, a on počinje s urbanizmom i završava s dizajnom interijera te ovisi, naravno, i o vanjskim faktorima, odnosno sadržajima koje destinacija uopće nudi vlasnicima nekretnina.

Zanimljivo je zamijetiti kako se tržište samo po sebi polako okreće luksuznijem segmentu. To je posljedica iznimnih prirodnih ljepota i sjajnoga geografskog položaja destinacije, a spomenute prednosti same po sebi nameću potrebu za razvijanjem proizvoda veće vrijednosti.

940 offices in 49 countries and on christiesrealestate.com website, which records more than 52 million visits per year, we provide real estate with unparalleled global exposure. Our clients can expect the highest level of personalized service that Christie’s clients have enjoyed for over 250 years. We provide the sellers with a world-class global marketing promotion through a combination of traditional and modern media and marketing and PR strategies.

What is the current interest in special, unique and luxury real estate in our country and what needs to be done to develop this segment of the luxury mar­ ket further?

The volume of interest, as well as the number of completed sales may not be as we would like it to be, but there is interest in luxury and super-luxury real estate.

This interest is further stimulated by the situation with the COVID-19 pandemic, which has changed the behaviour of owners or buyers of real estate whose priority now is safety, especially in the sense that with as little risk as possible they can come on vacation to their second home. In this situation, the proximity of Central Europe becomes an extremely large competitive advantage for Croatia compared to other competing Mediterranean countries, which are mostly accessible by air.

In order for the interest in the luxury segment to grow, it will be necessary to start creating real estate products with a new paradigm and with a different rethinking of the concept of luxury.

It will also be necessary to encourage stronger regulation of the real estate industry and consequently stronger professionalization of the developer as well as other professions involved in the market. Without the introduction of benefits for foreign property buyers, as well as without a deeper consideration of the optimal tax strategy in relation to the real estate industry, it will be difficult to expect a significant increase in the volume of luxury real estate sales.

In order to become regionally and globally more competitive as a destination and the market, we need to move away from the currently dominant strategy of spontaneous development and turn to master projects which will provide future property owners with the standard of living and experience they are used to, they expect and are ready to pay for. The development of branded projects under brands such as Four Seasons, Aman, Armani, Bulgari, Marriott, Hilton, Baccarat, etc. is also something that can significantly help the faster development of Croatia as a luxury destination.

What client profile is more inclined towards our climate? And what are their tastes? Are stone, indigenous houses or modern villas in demand more?

Until now, customers in Croatia have mostly come from nearby destinations which have historically gravitated to this area. Buyers from the emitting markets such as Germany, Austria, Italy, the Czech Republic and other countries in the region generally perceived Croatia as a low-budget destination, and consequently the demand in Croatia was created by buyers looking for lower to medium value

“BITI” JE POSTAO LUKSUZ. DRUGIM RIJEČIMA, SIGURNOST JE IZBILA NA PRVO MJESTO NA LJESTVICI PRIORITETA “BEING” HAS BECOME A LUXURY. IN OTHER WORDS, SAFETY CAME TO THE TOP OF THE PRIORITY LIST. PRECISELY IN THIS FACT LIES A GREAT OPPORTUNITY FOR CROATIA, WHICH IS A DESTINATION EASY TO REACH BY CAR, SPARSELY POPULATED AND NOT YET OVERLY BUILT.

| Ivan Kovačić na Adria Luxury Summitu na panelu Luxury Investments o ulaganjima u nekretnine i umjetnost s moderatoricom Dubravkom Tomeković Aralica, kolekcionarom Veljkom Martonom i Brankom Franceschijem, ravnateljem Moderne galerije u Zagrebu | Ivan Kovačić at the Adria Luxury Summit participating in the Luxury Investments panel on real estate and art investments, with moderator Dubravka Tomeković Aralica, collector Veljko Marton and Branko Franceschi, the director of the Modern Gallery in Zagreb

Pitanje je možemo li si uopće, kao tržište, priuštiti ne napraviti zaokret prema luksuznom segmentu? Svaki se dan susrećemo sa sve većim problemom nedostatka radne snage i kadrova u različitim segmentima gospodarske aktivnosti, uključujući građevinu, turizam, ali i druge grane ekonomije. Taj nedostatak direktna je posljedica nemogućnosti lokalnih poslodavaca da zadovolje financijske zahtjeve posloprimaca koji mogu više uprihoditi u drugim zemljama koje skuplje prodaju svoje nekretninske, turističke i druge proizvode i koje samim time mogu više platiti djelatnike. Dakle, razvoj luksuznog segmenta i visokovrijednih proizvoda i usluga predstavlja indirektno temelje uspješne socijalne i demografske politike u Hrvatskoj. Tu su i mnoge druge prednosti od kojih svakako treba spomenuti mogućnost smanjenja sezonalnosti, smanjenja opterećenja infrastrukture, smanjenja utjecaja na okoliš povećanjem prihoda bez povećanja broja dolazaka i noćenja. Valja svakako istaknuti i održivi te planirani razvoj prostora koji je jedino moguć povećanjem udjela master projekata i samim time stvaranjem financijskih osnova lokalnih samouprava za financiranjem kvalitetne komunalne i prometne infrastrukture.

Kako druge države na Mediteranu privlače strane investitore i kupce nekretnina?

Gotovo sve zemlje na Mediteranu imaju programe kojima se potiču strana ulaganja u nekretnine na njihovim tržištima. Dobivanje prava boravišta i radne dozvole, pa i državljanstva u slučaju kupnje nekretnine iznad određene vrijednosti moguće je u gotovo svim konkurentskim destinacijama na Mediteranu, čak i globalno.

Portugal je zasigurno jedan od najsvjetlijih primjera koji je svojim programom uvedenim prije desetak godina, a koji predstavlja kombinaciju poreznih olakšica i mogućnosti dobivanja boravka za strane investitore i njihove obitelji, postigao važne rezultate u podizanju volumena transakcija i vrijednosti samih nekretnina.

Lisabonsko metropolitansko područje zahvaljujući tim poticajima u posljednjih je 10-ak godina tri puta povećalo prosječnu cijenu kvadrata nekretnine. Drugi važan segment konkurentnosti svakako je sam porezni aspekt, odnosno porezni tretman nekretnina. Hrvatska sa svojom stopom PDV-a pri prodaji nekretnina od 25% teško može cjenovno konkurirati drugim zemljama u mediteranskom bazenu.

real estate products. Exceptions to this type of demand were mainly made by buyers from the territory of the former USSR and the Croatian diaspora who expressed interest in more luxurious products. However, the market is currently in a phase of transformation. We are witnessing the creation of increasingly highquality real estate products that are more often part of smaller master projects.

The demand for traditional, classic or autochthonous construction is turning faster and more significantly in the direction of modern luxury buildings with large glass surfaces and rich interior volumes. This change is a completely normal and natural process of maturing of the destination and its transformation from a low or medium value to a high value segment of real estate and tourism products.

Are we developing the future in that direction at least?

Currently, the number of luxury projects on the market is quite limited. A bigger challenge at the moment is the way we develop locations, in most cases spontaneously without clear thinking about it and creating the preconditions for building real estate products of greater value. With the spontaneous development, we will simply not be able to create more serious real estate products that require a different rethinking of the whole real estate development process, which begins with urbanism and ends with interior design and which depends, of course, on external factors, i.e. infrastructure which the destination offers to the owners of real estate in general. It is interesting to note that the market itself is slowly turning to the more luxurious segment. This is a consequence of the exceptional natural beauty and great geographical position of the destination, which naturally impose the need to develop products of greater value.

The question is can we, as a market, even afford not to make a turn towards the luxury segment? Every day we face the growing problem of shortage of labour and staff in various segments of economic activity, including construction, tourism, but also other branches of the economy. This shortage is a direct consequence of the inability of local employers to meet the financial requirements of employees who can earn more in other countries which sell their real estate, tourism and other products more expensively and can thus pay employees more.

Therefore, the development of the luxury segment and high-value products and services is indirectly the basis of a successful social and demographic policy in Croatia. There are many other advantages, of which we should definitely mention the possibility of reducing seasonality, reducing the load on infrastructure, reducing the impact on the environment through an increase in income without increasing the number of arrivals and overnight stays. It is worth emphasizing the sustainable and planned development of a location, which is only possible through increasing the number of master projects and thus creating the financial basis of local governments to finance good quality utility and transport infrastructure.

How do other countries in the Mediterranean attract foreign investors and re­ al estate buyers?

Almost all countries in the Mediterranean have programs that encourage foreign investment in real estate in their markets. Obtaining the right of residence and

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Istra se nametnula kao naša najtraženija premium luksuzna destinacija. Što je pridonijelo tome, koji je to faktor X koji Istra ima?

work permit, and even citizenship in the case of buying real estate over a certain value is possible in almost all competing destinations in the Mediterranean, and even globally.

Što se tiče turističkog razvoja, Istra svakako trenutačno ima sjajan trend razvoja, kako većih tako i manjih boutique hotela te gastronomske ponude. Destinacijski je Istra također napravila jako puno i danas nudi znatnu količinu različitih sadržaja u gotovo svim dijelovima poluotoka. Mnogo je razloga toga pozitivnog razvoja, od vizionarstva pojedinih kompanija, preko marljivog mentaliteta lokalnog stanovništva i iznimnih prirodnih ljepota do neposredne blizine emitivnih zemalja. Zanimljivo je ipak zamijetiti kako Istra, iako trenutačno u odnosu na druge regije bilježi najveći broj kvalitetnih nekretnina u segmentu do 1,5 milijuna eura, u segmentu iznad 1,5 milijuna eura ima ograničenu ponudu, što je upravo posljedica spomenute dominantne potražnje iz obližnjih emitivnih zemalja, koje povijesno nisu pokazivale potražnju za luksuznijim segmentom tržišta.

Vjerujemo da će otvaranje novih prodajnih kanala, kao i marketing na području novih emitivnih zemalja u kombinaciji s drukčijim brendiranjem destinacije dovesti do zaokreta potražnje prema visokovrijednim proizvodima, posebice s obzirom na činjenicu da Istra ima sve temelje za znatniji razvoj luksuznog i superluksuznog segmenta tržišta nekretnina.

Portugal is certainly one of the brightest examples of countries which have achieved important results in raising the volume of transactions and real estate values.

They did it with their program introduced ten years ago, which is a combination of tax relief and the possibility of obtaining residence for foreign investors and their families. Thanks to these incentives, the Lisbon metropolitan area has tripled the average price per square meter of real estate in the last 10 years. Another important segment of competitiveness is, of course, the real estate tax. With its VAT rate on the sale of real estate of 25%, Croatia can hardly compete with other countries in the Mediterranean.

Kao posljedica bolesti COVID-19, mnogima više nije najvažnije “imati”, nego “biti“. Primjećujete li to i u svojem segmentu poslovanja?

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Kako i sami kažete, “biti” je postao luksuz. Drugim riječima, sigurnost je izbila na prvo mjesto na ljestvici prioriteta. Upravo u toj činjenici leži velika prilika za Hrvatsku koja je autodestinacija, rijetko naseljena i još nije previše izgrađena. Kupci su u ovom trenutku spremni na kompromise, na koje možda u nekim drugim okolnostima ne bi bili, pa stavljaju sigurnost na prvo mjesto. Hrvatska se tako nalazi u sjajnoj poziciji da iskoristi nastali momentum i promijeni već desetljećima utabane puteve koji imućne i ultraimućne kupce vode u njihove ljetne rezidencije u Španjolskoj, Francuskoj, Italiji ili Grčkoj, a u posljednje vrijeme sve više i prema Portugalu. Moramo biti svjesni da su te destinacije, osim u prirodnim ljepotama i sigurnosti, po drugim pitanjima ispred nas i da je ovo jedinstvena prilika da privučemo nove klijente, da se u što kraćem roku prilagodimo njihovim potrebama i zahtjevima te tako razvijemo destinaciju kao novo luksuzno središte na Mediteranu.

Istria has established itself as our most popular pre­ mium luxury destination. What has contributed to it, what is the X factor that Istria has?

As far as tourist development is concerned, at the moment Istria certainly has a great trend of development of both larger and smaller boutique hotels and gastronomic offer. As a destination, Istria has also come a long way and today it offers a significant amount of different content in almost all parts of the peninsula.

The reasons for this positive development are many, from the visionary of individual companies, through the diligent mentality of the local population and exceptional natural beauty to the immediate vicinity of emitting countries.

It is interesting to note that Istria, although it currently records the largest number of quality real estate in the segment up to 1.5 million euros in relation to other regions, it has a limited offer in the segment over 1.5 million euros, which is a consequence of the previously mentioned dominant demand from nearby emitting countries, which historically have not shown demand for a more luxurious market segment. We believe that the opening of new sales channels, as well as marketing in new emitting countries in combination with different branding of the destination will lead to a turnaround in demand towards high value products, especially given the fact that Istria has the foundations necessary for significant development of luxury and super luxury segments of the real estate market.

As a consequence of COVID-19, for many the most important thing is no longer “having” but “being.” Do you notice this in your business segment as well?

As you say, “being” has become a luxury. In other words, safety came to the top of the priority list. Precisely in this fact lies a great opportunity for Croatia, which is a destination easy to reach by car, sparsely populated and not yet overly built.

At this point, customers are willing to compromise, which they might not have been in some other circumstances, and they put safety first. Croatia is thus in a great position to take advantage of the momentum and change the decades-old beaten paths that have led wealthy and ultra-wealthy customers to their summer residences in Spain, France, Italy or Greece, and more recently to Portugal. We must be aware that these destinations, in addition to the natural beauty and safety, are ahead of us in other respects and that this is a unique opportunity to attract new customers and adapt to their needs and requirements as soon as possible and thus develop the destination as a new luxury centre in the Mediterranean.

| U ZIMSKOM IZDANJU MAGAZINA STORYBOOK PROČITAJTE PROŠIRENU VERZIJU INTERVJUA S IVANOM KOVAČIĆEM | READ THE EXTENDED INTERVIEW WITH IVAN KOVAČIĆ IN THE WINTER ISSUE OF THE STORYBOOK MAGAZINE

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NOVI SMJER U INDUSTRIJI LJEPOTE REFLEKSIJA JE NOVE REALNOSTI. NOŠENJE Z A ŠT I T N I H M A S K I , D I STA N C A I R A D O D K U Ć E OKIDAČI SU ZA PROMJENE U NAVIKAMA POTROŠAČA . DONOSIMO KOJI SU TRENDOVI T U D A O STA N U I K A K V O J E STA N J E N A B E A U T Y T R Ž I ŠT U H R V ATS K E I S V I J E TA NA PI SA L A _ W O R DS: M A RT IN A R A FA EL I FOTO G R A F I JE_ PH OTO G R A PH S: SH UT T E R STOCK , P R

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ojam s kojim se sve češće susrećemo jest pandemic pampering, a odnosi se na trend u turizmu, odnosno u putovanjima u kojima putnici traže siguran bijeg na mjesta gdje će doživjeti osobni luksuz nizom prilagođenih usluga i proizvoda. Ali to je i pojam koji se odnosi na ono čemu težimo unutar svoja četiri zida, gdje sve više brinemo o osobnoj ugodi i emotivnoj njezi, pojam koji snažno utječe i na beauty industriju. Mintel, tvrtka koja se bavi naprednim istraživanjima globalnog tržišta, otkriva da sve više ljudi teži stvaranju nove rutine u kojoj posebno mjesto zauzimaju proizvodi za njegu kože proizvedeni u skladu s idejom održivosti i zdravlja. Pritom nije riječ samo o sapunima, gelovima i sprejevima za dezinfekciju, nego o proizvodima za kućne tretmane ljepote, linijama proizvoda za njegu kose i održavanje boje, serumima te proizvodima za njegu kože namijenjenim za umanjenje posljedica utjecaja plave svje-

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term we encounter more and more often is pandemic pampering. It is a term that refers to a trend in tourism; in travel where travellers seek a safe escape to places where they will experience personal luxury through a range of customized services and products. But it is also a term that refers as well to what we strive for within our own four walls where we increasingly care about personal comfort and emotional care. This is the term that strongly impacts the beauty industry as well. Mintel, a company engaged in advanced global market research, points out that an increasing number of people are striving to create a new routine in which skin care products produced in accordance with the idea of sustainability and health take a special place. Here, too, we are not just talking about soaps, gels and disinfectant sprays, but also about at-home beauty treatment products, hair care and colour product lines, serums and skin care products for protection from the effects of blue screen light. The popularity of these product groups is not new; many beauty brands have developed strategies and marketed these product lines even before the pandemic, but it is important to point out that the biggest changes in this segment of the beauty market occurred in just a few months in the year 2020. The Spate research platform recorded an increase in sales of

A NEW DIRECTION IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY REFLECTS A N E W R E A L I T Y. W E A R I N G P R O T E C T I V E M A S K S , K E E P I N G D I STA N C E A N D W O R K I N G F R O M H O M E A R E T H E T R I G G E R S FO R C H A N G E S I N C O N S U M E R H A B I TS . W E D I S C U S S W H AT T R E N D S A R E H E R E TO STAY A N D T H E S I T U AT I O N O N T H E B E A U T Y M A R K E T I N C R O AT I A A N D T H E W O R L D

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tlosti ekrana. Popularnost tih skupina proizvoda nije nova, brojni su beauty brendovi i prije pandemije razvijali strategije te plasirali takve linije proizvoda, ali važno je istaknuti da su se najveće promjene u tom segment beauty tržišta dogodile u samo nekoliko mjeseci 2020. godine. Tako istraživačka platforma Spate u godinu dana na američkom tržištu bilježi porast prodaje parnih kupelji za lice od čak 70%, a ukupan porast prodaje uređaja za održavanje zdravlja i ljepote kože premašuje 200%. Potražnja za ljubičastim linijama šampona i regeneratora porasla je za 40%, a za maskama za njegu čak 80%. Posebnu pozornost zaslužuju i serumi. Serumi na bazi hijaluronske kiseline i retinola bilježe porast prodaje od 20 do 40 posto, a prodaja seruma s niacinamidom čak 193%. Uzlet potvrđuju i istraživanja vodeće svjetske tvrtke za istraživanja tržišnih kretanja, Euromonitora, koji toj kategoriji proizvoda predviđa porast prodaje i u 2021., i to u iznosu od 149 milijardi američkih dolara, što je znatan porast i u odnosu na uspješnu 2019. te ostvarenih 140 milijardi američkih dolara prometa. Primjer koji je nemoguće zaobići jest popularnost seruma za njegu kože lica s vitaminom C, koji je na američkom tržištu tijekom tri tjedna svibnja 2020. prodan u količini koja se inače proda u šest mjeseci.

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Nove navike donijele su i pojam skin immunity koji se odnosi na nove vrijednosti. Da je u tom smjeru važno djelovati, potvrđuju i rezultati poslovanja brendova tvrtke L'Oréal - Vichy, La Roche-Posay i Skinceuticals - jedina divizija brenda koja je u prvoj polovici 2020. ostvarila pozitivan rast. Odlične rezultat bilježe i brojni manji proizvođači, brendovi iza kojih stoje i poznata liječnička imena jer oni znaju da kupci cijene marketinšku komunikaciju temeljenu na istraživačkim činjenicama, rezultatima i literaturi. Irina Barbalova, globalna voditeljica Beauty and Personal Care odjela tvrtke Euromonitor, ističe: "Asocijacije na zdravu kozmetiku dolaze od zdravih suplemenata i hrane.” To opravdava sve veću popularnost sastojaka kao što su kurkuma, vitamin C, probiotici i đumbir jer ih kupci prepoznaju kao poželjne. Odličan je primjer brend Inbloom, čija je osnivačica glumica Kate Hudson, a u partnerstvu s tvrtkom Syllable proizvodi prirodne, holističke biljne praškove vrlo transparentno ističući sastojke. U vrlo kratko vrijeme postali su uspješni jer se vode načelom koje zagovara sve više globalnih kupaca - ljepota uvijek ima inspiraciju u zdravlju. Pandemija je razlog za brojne promjene, ali i za brzi shift, jer ključ poslovne uspješnosti očito je u spremnosti na promjenu koja ovaj put dolazi od samog tržišta. Naime, kako se čini, takve će navike ostati i nakon što se trenutačna situacija stabilizira.

U cijeloj ovoj priči moramo se zapitati što se u vrijeme

facial steam baths of as much as 70% in the US market within a year, while the overall increase in sales of devices for maintaining the health and beauty of the skin exceeds 200%. The demand for purple lines of shampoos and conditioners for blonde hair increased by 40%, and for hair care masks by as much as 80%.

Serums also deserve special attention. Serums based on hyaluronic acid and retinol recorded an increase in sales of 20 to 40 percent, while sales of serums with niacinamide by as much as 193%. This rise is confirmed by the research of the world's leading market research company, Euromonitor, which predicts an increase in sales of these products’ category in 2021, equal to 149 billion US dollars, which is a significant increase compared to a successful year 2019 and 140 billion US dollars of turnover. An example which is impossible not to mention is the popularity of facial skin care serum with vitamin C, which was sold on the American market in three weeks in May 2020 in the amount which is normally sold in six months.

New habits have set the concept of skin immunity as a concept of new values, and the results of L'Oréal brands confirm that it is important to act in this direction.

SNJEŽANA ZVONAREVIĆ CLUSTER DIRECTOR FOR SELECTIVE COSMETICS, ORBICO Selektivna kozmetika posljednjih nekoliko godina bilježi rast, osobito kategorija prirodne kozmetike zbog promjene načina života i povećane brige o zdravlju. Potrošači već nekoliko godina pri odabiru prehrambenih namirnica paze na njihovo podrijetlo i kvalitetu, a primjećujemo to i u odabiru proizvoda za njegu kože.

Posebno smo zabilježili porast prodaje prirodne kozmetike Origins iz grupacije Estée Lauder. U selektivnoj kozmetici postoje dvije kategorije brendova - selektivni brendovi koji u asortimanu imaju samo make up (MAC) te brendovi koji uz selektivni make up imaju i skincare segment (Estée Lauder, Clinique, Clarins, Shiseido, Sensai). Selektivni brendovi iz oba segmenta bilježe u 2020. rast prodaje skincarea, a neznatni pad make upa. U 2019. udjel make upa i skincarea iznosio je 50:50, dok je u 2020. omjer 40:60 u korist skincarea. U anti-aging njezi najprodavaniji proizvodi posljednjih godina su serum i krema, dok je u 2020. krema za područje oko očiju postala hit proizvod. U make up segmentu sve vrste pudera bilježe rast i čine do 40% ukupne prodaje make upa. U selektivnoj kozmetici puderi su uvijek bili poveznica između make upa i skincarea.

Selective cosmetics have been growing in recent years, especially the category of natural cosmetics, due to lifestyle changes and increased caring about health. Consumers have been carefully choosing foods for several years now, paying attention to their source and quality. In recent years, we have also noticed the same thing in the selection of products in skin care. In particular, we noted an increase in natural cosmetics Origins by Estee Lauder Group. There are two categories of brands in selective cosmetics, selective brands that have only make-up (MAC) in the range of products and brands that, in addition to selective make-up, also have a skin care segment (Estee Lauder, Clinique, Clarins, Shiseido, Sensai). Selective brands from both segments recorded growth in skincare in 2020, and a slight decline in make-up products. In 2019, the share between make-up and skin care was 50:50, whereas in 2020 the ratio is 40:60 in favour of skincare. In anti-aging care, must have products in recent years were serums and creams, while in 2020 eye cream has become a hero product. In the make-up segment, all types of powders recorded growth and accounted for about 40% of total make-up sales. In selective cosmetic face powders have always been a link between make up and skincare.

PORAST SKINCAREA

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INCREASE IN SKINCARE BY 15 PERCENT

MATEA ŠKABERNA H E A D O F M A R K E T I N G D E P A R T M E N T, D O U G L A S P A R F U M E R I J E

U posljednjim mjesecima kod nas se bilježi porast skincarea za 15% s posebnim naglaskom na razdoblju lockdowna, na što je zasigurno utjecao i potres koji je zadesio Zagreb. Ljudima je bilo više do ugode i zdravlja nego do šminkanja i mirisa. U Douglasu su najprodavaniji proizvodi maskare, puderi i rumenila. Hrvatice vole naglasiti oči, pogotovo sada kada je zbog obaveznih maski to prvo što vidite na osobi, a ističu se marke Benefit, Eisenberg, Dr. Irena Eris, Too Faced, Zoeva i Jeffree Star.

Vezano uz globalnu popularnost skincarea, prilagodili smo se potrebama kupaca i uveli novitete poput "tie me up“ premium maski, sredstava i maramica za dezinfekciju, higijenskih uložaka, higijenske vate te ostalih proizvoda za svakodnevnu upotrebu.

Potaknuti okolnostima prouzročenim pandemijom i unapređenjem poslovanja, reagirali smo brzo i prenamijenili prostore koji su prije bili za potrebe Akademije (edukacije i treninge beauty savjetnika) u call centar koji je i našim kupcima koji nisu ljubitelji online prodaje omogućio da na brz i jednostavan način ostvare kupnju. Kupci su se putem call centra mogli posavjetovati s beauty savjetnicima koji su, umjesto u dućanima, sada radili u call centru i za to završili adekvatnu online edukaciju. Mnogima su upravo njihova stručnost, znanje i preporuka bili presudni u odluci za kupnju. Većina kupaca i dalje voli fizički kontakt i razgovor, što nije bilo moguće kada su se poslovnice zatvorile.

Osposobili smo pick up stanicu, gdje su kupci u istom danu mogli preuzeti paket koji bi naručili online. Dodatno smo u skladu s propisima limitirali broj ljudi u poslovnicama, uveli face chartove i plastificirane kartice gdje kupci mogu isprobati nijanse, proizvode, a da ih ne nanose izravno na kožu.

Prostor se redovito dezinficira, testeri mirisa koji se koriste brišu se dezinfekcijskim sredstvima, prekinuli smo usluge šminkanja, svim kupcima nude se besplatne maske ako su zaboravili svoju i ostale mjere sukladno situaciji.

In recent months, we have recorded an increase in skincare by 15% with special emphasis on the lockdown period, which was certainly influenced by the earthquake which hit Zagreb. People were more interested in comfort and health than in make-up and fragrances. In Douglas, the best-selling products are mascaras, face powders and blushes.

Croatian women like to put emphasis on their eyes, especially now when the eyes are the first thing you see because of the obligation to wear a protective mask. Brands Benefit, Eisenberg, Dr Irena Eris, Too Faced, Zoeva and Jefree star stand out. Due to the global popularity of skincare, we have adapted to customer needs and introduced innovations such as “tie me up” premium masks, disinfectants and disinfecting wipes, sanitary pads, hygienic cotton pads and other products for everyday use.

Stimulated by the circumstances of the pandemic and with the intention to improve the business, we responded quickly and started using the premises, which were until then used for the Academy (education and training of beauty consultants), as a call centre which allowed our customers who are not big fans of online shopping to make a purchase in a quick and easy way. At the call centre, customers could consult our beauty consultants, who instead of working in stores, now work in the call centre for which they have undergone adequate online training. For many customers, it was their expertise, knowledge and recommendation that was crucial in the purchase decision. Most customers still love that physical contact and conversation which was not possible in the period when the stores were closed.

We introduced a pick-up station where customers could pick up a package they would order online the same day. In compliance with the regulations, we have limited the number of customers inside the store at one time, introduced face charts and plastic sample cards where customers can try out products or shades, without applying them directly to the skin. The space is regularly disinfected, the used fragrance testers are wiped with disinfectants, makeup appointments and beauty services have been cancelled, all customers are offered a free protective mask if they have forgotten theirs and undertook other measures according to the situation.

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PREDNOST DRUŠTVENIH MREŽA THE ADVANTAGES OF SOCIAL NETWORKS

BORUT MIHALIĆ O W N E R , N I C H E PA R F U M E R I J E TO P Tijekom pandemije porastao je interes za proizvodima namijenjenim njezi lica, tijela i kose, kao i mirisa za dom u obliku mirisnih svijeća, difuzora i mirisnih sprejeva. Bježeći od loših vijesti, klijenti žele kreirati svoju malu mirisnu oazu, privatni spa. Zanimljivo je i da su niche brendovi u vrlo kratko razdoblju kreirali proizvode koji su njihov odgovor na pandemiju, i to u obliku dezinficijensa za ruke (Profumum Roma, Juliette has a gun, Zenology, Aesop, Pierre Guillaume), maski za lice (Dr. Barbara Sturm) te dodatnih sapuna za ruke (kruti i tekući) i dezodoransa (Nicolai). U našem poslovanju, otvaranjem još jednog prodajnog mjesta u samom centru Zagreba, otvorila se mogućnost da postojeću ponudu niche mirisa obogatimo beauty seg­mentom u obliku preparativne kozmetike pa trenutačno u ponudi imamo desetak brendova iz cijelog svijeta.

Kupce na našem tržištu možemo ugrubo podijeliti u dvije skupine - one koji su iznimno osviješteni te one koji su tradicionalniji i sporije prihvaćaju nove ideje. Za prepoznatljivost i promjene na tržištu u konačnici je važna snaga brenda, tj. proizvoda. Trendovi svakako upućuju na poželjnost korištenja prirodne kozmetike, organskih kozmetičkih proizvoda proizvedenih isključivo od prvoklasnih, prirodnih i aktivnih biljnih sastojaka, preparata koji se temelji na postulatima molekularne kozmetike, poput prebiotika i probiotika, proizvoda kao što su profesionalne kozmetičke linije usmjerene i na zdravlje mikrobioma kože. Naši klijenti također sve više paze na osobni utjecaj na okoliš, sve se više okreću proiz­vodima u ekološkoj ambalaži te brendovima koji stavljaju naglasak na održivo poslovanje.

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U doba pandemije, kada je gotovo cijeli svijet bio u lockdownu, većina osnivača kozmetičkih brendova pokušala je putem raznih novih medija (Instagrama, Facebooka…) biti u što bližem kontaktu sa svojim kupcima. Osnivači brendova odgovarali su na razna pitanja korisnika, a time su stekli i nove sljedbenike svojih kozmetičkih proizvoda, što je rezultiralo i učvršćivanjem brenda na raznim svjetskim tržištima, pa tako i na hrvatskom. Treba istaknuti da se sve više naših klijenata okreće online kupnji putem našeg web shopa.

Istaknuo bih i prednost naših profila na društvenim mrežama na kojima informiramo klijente o novitetima i komuniciramo unaprijed definirane teme, ovisno o razdoblju godine u kojem se nalazimo.

During the pandemic, there was an increased interest in face, body and hair care products, as well as home fragrances such as scented candles, diffusers and scented sprays. Fleeing the bad news, clients want to create their own little fragrant oasis, a private spa. It is interesting that niche brands in a very short period of time created products in response to the pandemic in the form of hand sanitizers (Profumum Roma, Juliette has a gun, Zenology, Aesop, Pierre Guillaume), face masks (Dr. Barbara Sturm) as well as additional hand soaps (solid and liquid) and deodorants (Nicolai). By opening another shop in the centre of Zagreb, we have had the opportunity to enrich the existing offer of niche fragrances with a beauty segment introducing preparative cosmetics so we currently offer a dozen brands from around the world.

We can roughly group our market into two groups, those who are extremely aware and others who are more traditional and slowly accept new ideas.

Ultimately, the strength of the brand, i.e. the product, is important for the recognizability and changes in the market. Trends certainly indicate the desirability of using natural cosmetics, organic cosmetics produced exclusively from firstclass, natural and active herbal ingredients, cosmetics based on molecular cosmetics postulates, products such as prebiotics and probiotics, products such as professional cosmetic lines focused on health of the skin microbiome. Our clients are also increasingly concerned about personal impact on the environment: more and more they are turning to products in environmentally friendly packaging and brands that put emphasis on sustainable business.

At the time of the pandemic, when almost the whole world was in the “lockdown”, most of the founders of various cosmetic brands tried to be in close contact with their customers through various new media (Instagram, Facebook, etc.). Looking much more accessible, these founders answered various questions from their users, and thus gained some new followers of their cosmetic brands, which resulted in the strengthening of the brand in various world markets, including ours.

During the pandemic, more and more of our customers are turning to online shopping through our web shop. I would also like to point out the advantages of our profiles on social networks where we inform our clients about news and communicate pre-defined topics depending on the period of the year we are in.

NAČELO KOJE ZAGOVARA SVE VIŠE GLOBALNIH KUPACA GLASI DA LJEPOTA IMA INSPIRACIJU U ZDRAVLJU, ŠTO INDUSTRIJU SVE VIŠE OKREĆE U SMJERU WELLBEINGA THE PRINCIPLE ADVOCATED BY A GROWING NUMBER OF GLOBAL CUSTOMERS IS THAT BEAUTY IS ALWAYS INSPIRED BY HEALTH, WHICH IS INCREASINGLY TURNING THE INDUSTRY IN THE DIRECTION OF WELLBEING

pandemije događa s donedavno top beauty proizvodom - ružem? Jer nošenje zaštitnih maski i rad od kuće nisu poticajno okruženje za njegovu kupnju i korištenje. Sve se više govori i o današnjem kontekstu u industriji prepoznatljivog pojma Lipstick Index.

Taj je pojam početkom 2000. kreirao Leonard Lauder, predsjednik tvrtke Estée Lauder, a koristio se kao svojevrstan ekonomski indikator kojim se u ukupnoj prodaji kozmetike upravo ruž isticao kao proizvod koji žene kupuju bez obzira na financijski zahtjevna vremena, kao tračak uvijek dostupnog osobnog luksuza. Wellbeing proizvodi očito su istisnuli ruž s trona najpoželjnijeg beauty proizvoda jer, prema ispitivanjima tržišta Bazaarvoicea, tehnološke tvrtke koja robnim markama i trgovcima omogućuje prikupljanje i prikazivanje autentičnog korisničkog sadržaja na web stranicama e-trgovine, taj je primat prevagnuo na stranu njege jer je čak 65% ispitanica ruž zamijenilo balzamom za njegu usana. Potvrđuje to i Fabrizio Freda, izvršni direktor tvrtke Estée Lauder Cos, ističući da taj indeks i dalje postoji, ali dopunjen je novom kategorijom - Moisturiser Index.

I prema njihovim se predviđanjima povratak ruža tek očekuje. Dotad brojke ostaju na strani tržišta koje pokazuje da se očekuje i nova slava proizvoda za uljepšavanja očiju i obrva te rast interesa i prodaje palete proizvoda koji su definicija kako pandemic tako i post pandemic pamperinga, potrebe življenja osobnog wellbeinga.

Vichy, La Roche Posay and Skinceuticals are the only divisions of the brand that achieved positive growth in the first half of 2020.

Numerous smaller manufacturers, brands with well-known names from the field of medicine, also record excellent results, because they know that customers value marketing communication based on research facts, results and literature. Irina Barbalova, Head of Beauty and Personal Care at Euromonitor, points out: “Healthy cosmetics associations come from healthy supplements and foods”, which justifies the growing popularity of ingredients such as turmeric, vitamin C, probiotics, ginger, etc., because customers recognize them as desirable. A great example is the Inbloom brand, founded by actress Kate Hudson, which, in partnership with Syllable, produces natural, nutritional, holistic herbal powders, highlighting the ingredients very transparently. This has made them successful in a very short time, as they are guided by the principle advocated by a growing number of global customers -beauty is always inspired by health. The pandemic is the reason for many changes, but also for a quick shift, because the key to business success is obviously in the readiness for change, which comes from the market itself this time, because as it seems, these habits will continue after stabilization.

And in all this, it is impossible not to wonder what is happening, in a time of pandemic, with a product which was until recently top beauty product – the lipstick? Because wearing protective masks and working from home are not a stimulating environment for buying and using it. And there is more and more talk about today's context of the Lipstick Index, a recognizable term in the industry.

This term was coined during the early 2000s recession by Leonard Lauder, president of Estée Lauder, and it was used as a kind of economic indicator by which lipstick was the one product that stood out in the overall sales of cosmetics as a product that women buy, regardless of financially challenging times, as a glimmer of always affordable personal luxury. Wellbeing products have obviously pushed lipstick off the throne of the most desirable beauty product because according to market research by Bazaarvoice, a technology company that enables brands and retailers to collect and display authentic user content on e-commerce websites.

Care has become more important since over 65% of the respondents said that they replaced the lipstick with a lip balm. This is confirmed by Fabrizio Freda, CEO of Estée Lauder Cos, pointing out that the index still exists, but that it has been supplemented by a new category, the Moisturiser Index. And according to their predictions, the return of the lipstick is yet expected. Until then, the numbers remain on the side of the market which indicates that a new glory of eye and eyebrow beauty products is expected, as well as the increase in interest for and sales of a range of products that are the definition of both pandemic and post pandemic pampering; the need to live personal wellbeing.

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“ČOVJEK SVAKODNEVNO MORA PROJEKTIRATI, MISLITI, KREIRATI NOVE NARATIVE BEZ OBZIRA NA STRUKU KOJOM SE BAVI”

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rvatska svoju prepoznatljivost mora graditi na luksuzu, ali za uglednoga hrvatskog arhitekta Idisa Turata on nije formalan i materijalan. Riječ je o pristupu svakodnevici, odnosu prema poslu te, dakako, hrabrosti i stavu, stvaranju inteligentnih sadržaja i promišljenih narativa, a toga u Hrvatskoj, nažalost, nedostaje. I to ne samo u arhitekturi, nego i u svim segmentima društva, premda – složit će se i Turato – postoje iznimni i inteligentni pojedinci koji promišljaju drukčije i žele stvoriti lijepu priču.

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“Svaka zemlja koja želi biti prepoznata u svijetu mora imati jasan narativ. Pogledajte, primjerice, Veliku Britaniju koja filmovima o Jamesu Bondu desetljećima neprestano prikazuje ono što ta zemlja jest. Agent 007 – od Seana Conneryja do Daniela Craiga – uvijek je dio identiteta Velike Britanije. Onaj tko to ne vidi, ima problem”, govori Turato dok sjedimo u centru Zagreba, u blizini Arhitektonskog fakulteta, kamo svaki tjedan dolazi iz Rijeke održati predavanje studentima. Voli, kaže, raditi s mladim ljudima jer su izuzetno kreativni, no pitanje je koliko se njih vidi unutar kaosa koji smo producirali i konzumirali. “Ljudi se vežu uz neko mjesto samo ako ono ima kvalitetnu priču i identitet. A identitet je, moramo to shvatiti – konstrukcija, on nije nešto što imate, neprestano se mijenja, nadograđuje,

ON JE JEDAN OD NAŠIH N A J V E Ć I H A R H I T E K ATA , A RADOVI KOJIMA SE P R E D STA V L J A G O V O R E O K R E AT I V N O ST I I BESKOMPROMISNOJ ŽELJI ZA RAZVOJEM I STVARANJEM I Z V A N O K V I R A . I D I S T U R ATO DUBOKO RAZUMIJE IZAZOV I L J E P OT U N E STA L N O ST I TE OVO VRIJEME “BEZ T R E N D O V A ” S M AT R A SAVRŠENIM POLIGONOM Z A K R E AT I V N O ST I N E VJ E R O J A T N E D O S E G E U SVIM ŽIVOTNIM SFERAMA RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: DANIJEL A PET ROV FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : MAJA B OSNIĆ, SANDRO LENDLER, B OSNIĆ + DOROTIĆ, I G OR CRNKOVIĆ, GEOARHEO

INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

IDIS TURATO

“ONE HAS TO DESIGN, THINK AND CREATE NEW NARRATIVES EVERY DAY, REGARDLESS OF THE PROFESSION” H E I S O N E O F O U R G R E AT E ST A R C H I T E C TS A N D H I S W O R KS T E L L A STO RY O F C R E AT I V I T Y A N D A N UNCOMPROMISING DESIRE FOR DEVELOPMENT AND C R E A T I N G O U T S I D E T H E B O X . I D I S T U R A T O P R O F O U N D LY U N D E R STA N D S T H E C H A L L E N G E A N D B E A U T Y O F IMPERMANENCE AND CONSIDERS THIS “TRENDLESS” TIME A S T H E P E R F E C T T E ST I N G G R O U N D FO R C R E AT I V I T Y A N D INCREDIBLE ACHIEVEMENTS IN ALL SPHERES OF LIFE

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roatia must build its recognizability on luxury, but for Idis Turat, eminent Croatian architect, luxury is not something formal nor material. It is about the approach to everyday life, the attitude towards work and, of course, audacity and taking a stand, creating intelligent content and thoughtful narratives, and that is something unfortunately lacking in Croatia. And not just in architecture but in all segments of society, although, as Turato agrees, there are exceptional and intelligent individuals who think differently and wish to create a beautiful narrative.

“Every country that wants to be recognized in the world must have a clear narrative. Take, for example, the UK, which has been, through James Bond films, for decades constantly showing what that country is all about.

Agent 007 - from Sean Connery to Daniel Craig - is always part of the UK identity. Anyone who cannot see it has a problem”, says Turato as we are sitting over a cup of coffee in the centre of Zagreb, near the Faculty of Architecture, where he comes every week from Rijeka to give a lecture to students. He likes to work with young people because they are extremely creative, but it is questionable how many of them can be noticed in the chaos we produced and are consuming. “People get attached to a place only if it has a quality story and identity. And identity is, and we have to understand that – a construction; it is not something you have, it is constantly changing, upgrading, adapting. You have to invest a lot of resources, energy, innovation and knowledge to keep it alive”, Turato says.

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Hotel Navis near Opatija, located in a rocky bay, with each room oriented towards the sea; Roxanich Hotel and Winery in Motovun; Nest and Cave House, a cave house in the Opatija hinterland which he constructed to help the owners solve the problem of fear of living in a house; The Museum of Apoxyomenos and Gumno House are only some of the examples of architectural genius bearing his signature, and many of them have significantly influenced the shaping of the tourist identity of Croatia. He agrees that such and similar projects can contribute to the recognizability of Croatia in the world and, which is very important, prolong the tourist season, but claims that the problem is that we have a very small number of brave and intelligent people who know how to and who want to tell an authentic narrative. | Nest and Cave House, Drvena Kuća, Muzej Apoksiomena u Malom Lošinju te Bedrock House prepoznatljiva su djela Idisa Turata | Nest and Cave House, Wooden House, The Museum of Apoxyomenos in Mali Lošinj and Bedrock House are some of the most recognizable works of Idis Turato

“There are a lot more of those superficial, impatient people who will rent out their grandfather’s apartment on Airbnb and wait for the money to land in their account so that they do not have to do anything for months.

That idea of rental business, according to which one works only three months a year, is the disease of our society. One has to design, think and create new narratives every day, regardless of the profession. Let’s look, for instance, at hotels: in one day a hundred mistakes can happen, but also just as many wonderful things. Breakfast served to the guest, parking in the garage, wellness experience and the like - if you manage to wrap all that into an authentic narrative, then you have succeeded and people will return to you. The key thing is to change the way of thinking; not collective, but individual. You need to start with yourself. I do it every day and it fulfills me”, says Turato and admits that he rejects many projects

| Gumno House

because they are not challenging enough. It is important for him that the project he takes over enables progress for both him and the client he is “solving the problem to” just as it was the case with Cave House in the Opatija hinterland.

“That is crucial. I meet my clients first. I want to uncover their frustrations, ecstasies, ambitions, some hidden intentions. If they just want to boast and show off, then I am not interested in their project at all. I am interested in the problem, whatever it is: technical, emotional, the problem of ego, love, passion… These are the main ingredients; open and authentic design themes”, says Turato adding that he is a man of projects.

prilagođava. Morate uložiti jako puno sredstava, energije, inovativnosti i znanja da biste ga održali živim”, kaže Turato.

Hotel Navis pokraj Opatije, smješten u stjenovitoj uvali, gdje je svaka soba orijentirana prema moru, hotel i vinarija Roxanich u Motovunu, Nest and Cave House, kuća-špilja u opatijskom zaleđu koju je konstruirao kako bi vlasnicima pomogao riješiti problem stra ha od života u kući, Mu zej Apoksiomena i Gumno House samo su neki primjeri arhitektonske genijalnosti s njegovim potpisom, a mnogi od njih znatno su utjecali i na oblikovanje turističkog identiteta Hrvatske. Iako se slaže da upravo takvi i slični projekti mogu pridonijeti prepoznatljivosti Lijepe Naše u svijetu te, što je jako važno, produljiti turističku sezonu, problem je, smatra Turato, što imamo vrlo malo hrabrih i inteligentnih ljudi koji znaju i žele ispričati autentičnu priču.

“Puno je više onih površnih, nestrpljivih, koji će iznajmljivati djedov apartman na Airbnbu i čekati da im pristigne novac kako mjesecima ne bi trebali raditi ništa. Ta ideja rentijerstva prema kojoj se radi samo tri mjeseca u godini jest rak-rana našeg društva. Čovjek svakodnevno treba projektirati, misliti i kreirati nove narative bez obzira na struku kojom se bavi. Pogledajmo, primjerice, hotele: u

“For several generations, my family has been involved in architecture, and the famous painter Oton Gliha was a very good friend of my father. I hung out with him while I was studying and it was he who taught me that you cannot be a painter or an architect if you do not live it. Architecture is not a job to me, it is everything to me.

Even now when I am talking to you, that is also architecture, designing some relationship. The house that I design is a medium you can watch like a play, a movie, or a book; when you move from one room to another, you feel like you are reading a book and going through chapters, as if you are going in and out of a movie, drama, comedy or reality show”, Turato explains, noting that he realized early on in his career that he must have some kinds of five-year and ten-year time periods carefully pre-planned. “I learned that a long time ago and took it over as a working method from David Bowie.”

Today, after ten years of independent work (he used to work in Randić – Turato Architects tandem), he is at a kind of a turning point. Although he does not reveal much about the new plans, he says that he will certainly do architecture, but no longer as he had done it so far. “It is time to open the door to some new people, new ideas and ways to act. For sure, one part will be focused on DeltaLab - Centre for Urban Transition, Architecture and Urbanism, a newly established program at the University of Rijeka. I created a platform that connected the university and some kind of creation in architectural space. As part of the Rijeka 2020 - European Capital of Culture program, we have prepared a large exhibition in the premises of ExportDrvo in the Delta area in Rijeka titled “Fiume Fantastika”, which is very architectural and spatially experiential and shows the last 150 years of Rijeka’s urban history, during which the city experienced a drastic growth and became the traffic and industrial centre. We are going to publish the book entitled “Fiume Fantastika” and launch a postgraduate study based on it. In the upcoming period, I will conduct research and education and in parallel continue to act and do architecture. It will be like a kind of agency, and my goal is to solve problems that are not exclusively related to building houses by using my own intelligence and the experience I have with young people. I have been developing this idea for the last three years, and it is also related to the theme of togetherness and the Venice Biennale project”, Turato says. Namely,

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jednom danu može se dogoditi sto pogrešaka, ali i jednako toliko predivnih stvari. Doručak koji poslužujete gostu, parking u garaži, iskustvo wellnessa... – ako sve to uspijete pretvoriti u autentičnu priču, onda ste uspjeli i ljudi će vam se vraćati.

Ključno je promijeniti način razmišljanja, ne kolektivnog nego individualnog. Treba početi od sebe i svog primjera. Ja to radim svakodnevno i to me ispunjava”, kaže Turato i priznaje da puno projekata odbija jer mu nisu dovoljno izazovni. Važno mu je da projekt koji preuzme omogući napredak njemu i klijentu kojem “rješava problem”, baš kao što je bio slučaj s Nest and Cave Houseom u opatijskom zaleđu.

“To je ključno. Najprije upoznam svoje klijente. Želim otkriti njihove frustracije, ekstaze, ambicije, poneke skrivene namjere. Ako se samo žele dokazati i pokazati, uopće me ne zanima njihov projekt.

Zanima me problem, kakav god on bio: tehnički, emocionalni, problem ega, ljubavi, strasti… To su glavni sastojci, otvorene i autentične teme za projektiranje”, kaže Turato napominjući kako je on čovjek projekata.

“Nekoliko generacija moje obitelji bavilo se arhitekturom, a poznati slikar Oton Gliha bio je jako dobar prijatelj mog oca. Družio sam se s njim dok sam studirao i upravo me on naučio da ne možete biti slikar ili arhitekt ako to ne živite. Meni arhitektura nije posao, ona mi je sve. Čak i kada razgovaram s vama, to je također arhitektura, projektiranje nekog odnosa. Kuća koju projektiram medij je koji možete gledati poput predstave, filma ili knjige; kada prelazite iz jedne u drugu sobu, imate osjećaj kao da čitate knjigu i prelazite poglavlja, kao da ulazite i izlazite u neki film, dramu, komediju ili reality show”, pojašnjava Turato i ističe kako je rano shvatio da u karijeri mora imati neke vrste unaprijed isplaniranih petoljetki i desetljetki koje je potrebno pažljivo projektirati. “To sam još davno naučio i preuzeo kao metodu rada od Davida Bowieja.”

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Danas, nakon deset godina samostalnog djelovanja (prije je radio u tandemu Randić – Turato), nalazi se na svojevrsnoj prekretnici. Iako o novim planovima ne otkriva puno, kaže da će se sigurno baviti arhitekturom, ali ne više onako kako je to dosad činio. “Vrijeme je da otvorim vrata za neke nove ljude, nove ideje i načine djelovanja. Sigurno će jedan dio biti usmjeren na DeltaLab – Centar za urbanu tranziciju, arhitekturu i urbanizam, novoosnovani program pri Sveučilištu u Rijeci. Napravio sam platformu koja je spojila sveučilište i neku vrstu djelovanja u prostoru. U sklopu programa Rijeka 2020 – Europska prijestolnica kulture pripremili smo veliku izložbu “Fiume Fantastika” u prostoru

“MORATE VJEROVATI U PROJEKT, ALI I U SVAKOM TRENUTKU ZNATI DA MOŽETE STATI, KRENUTI U NEKOM DRUGOM SMJERU, MIJENJATI SE... MORATE BITI POTPUNO PRILAGOĐENI NA STALNU NESTABILNOST” “YOU HAVE TO BELIEVE IN THE PROJECT, BUT YOU ALSO NEED TO KNOW THAT YOU CAN STOP AT ANY MOMENT, MOVE IN A DIFFERENT DIRECTION, CHANGE, ETC. YOU HAVE TO BE FULLY ADAPTED TO CONSTANT INSTABILITY”

Exportdrva na Delti u Rijeci, koja je vrlo arhitektonička i prostorno iskustvena te prati posljednjih 150 godina urbane povijesti Rijeke, tijekom kojih je grad doživio radikalan rast i posta globalno prometno i industrijsko središte. Izdat ćemo knjigu “Fiume Fantastika” i pokrenuti poslijediplomski studij koji se temeljiti na tome. U predstojećem razdoblju usporedno ću izvoditi istraživanja i edukaciju te djelovati i prakticirati arhitekturu. Bit će to poput svojevrsne agencije, a cilj mi je vlastitom inteligencijom i iskustvom s mlađim ljudima rješavati probleme koji nisu isključivo vezani uz gradnju kuća. Tu ideju razvijam tijekom posljednje tri godine, a povezana je i s temom zajedništva i projektom Venecijanskog bijenala”, kaže Turato. Naime, on i njegov tim na natječaju Ministarstva kulture izabrani su kao povjerenici Hrvatskog paviljona Venecijanskog bijenala arhitekture – najvažnije svjetske arhitektonske izložbe, koja je zbog pandemije prvi put u svojoj povijesti odgođena na sljedeću godinu. Na pitanje je li kontradiktorno govoriti o zajedništvu u kontekstu pandemije spremno odgovara: “Ljudi će uvijek htjeti i morati živjeti zajedno.

Osuđeni smo jedni na druge, samo je pitanje kako, zašto i gdje. Možemo biti zajedno, osjećati jedni druge a da i nismo u istoj sobi, da nas dijele kilometri i brojne fizičke granice. Nedavno sam održao jedno online predavanje za studente. U jednom trenutku shvatio sam da me sluša i gleda više 850 ljudi. Kao da se nalazimo u golemoj dvorani.

Doživio sam adrenalinski napadaj jednak onome kada uživo govorim pred mnogo ljudi. Bio je to vrlo tjelesan osjećaj i kada sam došao kući nakon toga, trebala su mi dva sata da se smirim i zaspim.

Biti u digitalnom prostoru vrlo je tjelesno, samo ga trebate razumjeti, znati ga osjećati, znati ulaziti u njega te biti i djelovati u njemu. Ako ga shvaćate kao aparat ili uređaj, onda griješite”, kaže Turato naglašavajući da ćemo se svi morati naviknuti na novu, neklasičnu vrstu zajedništva, koje više nije u sobi, na ulici ili trgu.

“S obzirom na uvjete koje morate zadovoljiti da biste se zaštitili od koronavirusa: ventilacija, klimatizacija i slično, sve tehnologije koje smo razvili posljednjih 50-ak godina morat će doživjeti transformaciju tako da će arhitektura biti prva koja će reagirati na krizu izazvanu pandemijom. Svaka kriza radikalno mijenja životni prostor. Ljudima, pogotovo laicima, nije poznato da je početkom 20. stoljeća tuberkuloza donijela cjelokupnu suvremenu arhitekturu Europe. Nizozemska, Finska, Francuska… cijeli je niz predivnih arhitektonskih ostvarenja koja su bila direktan odgovor na pandemiju prouzročenu tom bolešću. Arhitektura je uvi-

| Hotel i vinarija Roxanich u Motovunu velebni je projekt koji na jedinstven način prikazuje viziju vlasnika te grandiozno pretakanje vizije u djelo Idisa Turata | Wine and Heritage Hotel Roxanich in Motovun is an impressive project which uniquely represents the owner’s vision and the magnificent work by architect Idis Turato

he and his team were selected at a public call announced by the Ministry of Culture as commissioners of the Croatian pavilion at the Venice Biennale of Architecture – the world’s most important architectural exhibition, which was, for the first time in its history, postponed to the next year due to the pandemic. When asked whether it is contradictory to talk about togetherness in the context of the pandemic, he readily replies: “People will always want to and need to live together. We are destined to live with each other, it is just a matter of how, why and where. We can be together; feel each other without even being in the same room, separated by many kilometres and numerous physical boundaries. I recently gave an online lecture for students. At one point, I realized that more than 850 people were listening and watching me. As if we are in a huge hall. I experienced an adrenaline rush equal to the one I feel when I speak live in front of a lot of

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jek bila neka vrsta stroja koji je odgovarao na sanitarne, zdravstvene i fizičke probleme. Sjetite se samo velikih bolesti u srednjem vijeku, gradova pogođenih kugom. Zbog potrebe za bio-političkom kontrolom, uspostavom vlasti i poretka, jasnim implementiranjem državnog aparata prema ljudima razvijali su se gradovi i jasna arhitektura. Ako pratite Rimsko Carstvo, srednji vijek, renesansne gradove ili se sjetite Pariza i New Yorka, svagdje uočavamo kondicioniranje stanja uvjetovano arhitekturom. Ja to ne vidim kao problem, nego kao potpuno normalnu pojavu, danas preslikanu u nove tehnologije i digitalno, novi način razmišljanja”, kaže Turato te otkriva kako i COVID-19 doživljava samo kao mali dio niza nestabilnosti i nepredvidivosti koje ga stalno prate. Ne sjeća se, ističe, da je u posljednjih 55 godina njegova života i 30 godina bavljenja arhitekturom ikada bilo stabilno. “Naviknuo sam se na nepredvidivo. Morate vjerovati u projekt, ali i u svakom trenutku znati da možete stati, krenuti u nekom drugom smjeru, mijenjati se... Morate biti potpuno prilagođeni na stalnu nestabilnost”, kaže Turato koji je, kako priznaje, i vlastitu tvrtku koncipirao tako da vrlo lako može apsorbirati vanjske utjecaje.

“U svome radu uvijek promišljam o drugima, konzultiram se... Nikad ne radim sam. Dobro znam što želim, ali jako volim raditi u timu, još iz srednje škole kada sam imao bend. Sviranje u bendu vrlo je slično mojem pristupu arhitekturi. Na fakultetu radim sa studentima završnih godina, izlažemo ideje i kritiziramo ih, baš poput članova benda: netko ima ideju, netko napiše tekst, netko osmisli glavnu glazbenu temu i nastane nešto očaravajuće, što nitko nije mogao samostalno zamisliti”, objašnjava arhitekt koji ne voli govoriti o trendovima jer oni nisu trajni.

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“Trend je to da moraš neprestano stvarati priče i prilagođavati se vremenu. Trend je da trenda nema, da je sve otvoreno i zato se mnogi ljudi boje, jer je moguće i dobro i loše. Onaj koji misli da je sve samo dobro i da je jedini mogući put onaj prema naprijed, taj itekako griješi, svijet je stalno održavanje ravnoteže”, tvrdi i napominje kako je trend održivosti o kojem se toliko govori u posljednje vrijeme također upitna mantra koju treba kritički sagledati.

“Ako danas želite obiteljsku kuću koja će biti potpuno samoodrživa: proizvoditi struju, imati vodu, biti izrađena od svih prirodnih materijala iz zemlje, vode, mora ili šume… postoji jedan problem, a to je da će ona biti potpuno nelegalna. Morate imati strujni i vodovodni priključak, kao i koristiti materijale koji imaju atest (potvrdu o podrijetlu i kakvo-

people. It was one bodily feeling and when I got home after that, it took me two hours to calm down and fall asleep. Being in the digital space is very much physical, you just need to understand it, know how to feel it, know how to enter it, be in it and act in it. If you perceive it as a machine or a device, then you are wrong”, says Turato, emphasizing that we will all have to get used to a new, nontypical kind of togetherness, which is no longer in a room, street or square.

“Given the conditions you have to meet to protect yourself from coronavirus: ventilation, air conditioning and the like, all the technologies we have developed over the last 50 years will have to undergo a transformation so that architecture will be the first to respond to the crisis caused by the pandemic. Every crisis radically changes the living space. People, especially laypeople, are not familiar with the fact that tuberculosis brought the entire modern architecture of Europe at the beginning of the 20th century.

In the Netherlands, Finland, France, etc., there is a whole series of beautiful architectural achievements that were a direct response to the pandemic caused by that disease. Architecture has always been a kind of machinery that responded to sanitary, health and physical

“SVOJE KLIJENTE NAJPRIJE UPOZNAM. ŽELIM OTKRITI NJIHOVE FRUSTRACIJE, EKSTAZE, AMBICIJE, PONEKE SKRIVENE NAMJERE. AKO SE SAMO ŽELE DOKAZATI ILI POKAZATI, UOPĆE ME NE ZANIMA NJIHOV PROJEKT” ‘I MEET MY CLIENTS FIRST. I WANT TO UNCOVER THEIR FRUSTRATIONS, ECSTASIES, AMBITIONS, SOME HIDDEN INTENTIONS. IF THEY JUST WANT TO BOAST AND SHOW OFF, THEN I AM NOT INTERESTED IN THEIR PROJECT AT ALL.’

ći, op. a.) tako da je pitanje razumiju li ljudi do koje su granice neke stvari sputane, kontrolirane i određene. I održivost će zahtijevati potpuno resetiranje. No mislim da će ljudi morati prestati čekati da se situacije riješe globalno i početi razmišljati kako unutar svog sustava djelovanja stvoriti održivu arhitekturu”, kaže Turato, kojeg u posljednje vrijeme fasciniraju reper Travis Scott i crnačka rap scena zbog nevjerojatne inteligencije, ne samo u glazbenom nego i u kulturološkom smislu. Njihove teme, priče, kapital ostavljaju dubok trag na modu, arhitekturu, lifestyle..., a to i sam želi postići arhitekturom. I radi to impresivno.

problems. Just think of the great diseases of the Middle Ages, the cities affected by the plague. Due to the need for bio-political control, the establishment of government and order, and the clear implementation of the state apparatus, many cities and clear architecture developed. If you take a look at the Roman Empire, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance cities, or just remember Paris and New York, you can notice conditioning of the situation by architecture. I do not see it as a problem, but as a completely normal phenomenon, replicated into new technologies and the digital today, into a new way of thinking”, says Turato, revealing that he perceives COVID-19 as only a small part of the series of instabilities and unpredictabilities which constantly accompany him. He cannot remember a stable period in the last 55 years of his life and 30 years of working in architecture.

“I have become accustomed to the unpredictable. You have to believe in the project, but you also need to know that you can stop at any moment, move in a different direction, change, etc. You have to be fully adapted to constant instability”, says Turato, who, as he admits, also conceived his own company so that he can absorb external influences very easily.

“In my work I always think about others, I consult people... I never work alone. I know very well what I want, but I really like working in a team, ever since high school when I had a band. Playing in a band is very similar to my approach to architecture. At the faculty, I work with final year students; we present ideas and criticize them, just like band members: someone has an idea, someone writes the lyrics, someone comes up with a major musical theme and something enchanting is created, something that no one could have imagined on their own”, he explains adding that he does not like to talk about trends because they are not permanent. “The trend is that you have to constantly create narratives and adapt to the times you live in.

The trend is such that there is no trend, anything is possible, and that is why many people are afraid, because both good and bad are possible. He who thinks that everything is only good and that the only possible way is the way forward is very wrong, it is about constant maintaining of balance”, Turato claims and notes that the sustainability trend which has been talked about so much lately is also a questionable mantra that needs to be considered critically.

“If you want to have a family house which will be completely selfsustaining; produce electricity, have its own water reserves, be completely made of natural materials which come from ground, water, sea or forest, etc. then there is one problem, and that is that it will be completely illegal. You need to have a power and plumbing connection, as well as use materials that have a certificate (certificate of origin and quality, author’s comment) so the question is whether people understand to what extent some things are restrained, controlled and determined. Sustainability will also need a complete reset. But I think people will have to stop waiting for situations to be resolved globally, and rather start thinking about how to create sustainable architecture within the system in which they operate”, says Turato, who has recently been fascinated by rapper Travis Scott and the black rap scene for the incredible intelligence, not just in music, but also in a cultural sense. Their themes, stories and capital leave a deep mark on fashion, architecture, lifestyle, etc., and he himself wants to leave a mark with his architecture. And he does it impressively.

EX PER IENCE

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THE TRUE ESSENCE OF LUXURY

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POVRATAK U BUDUĆNOST Z A D A Ć A J E F U T U R O L O G A P R E D V I Đ AT I TRENDOVE I POMOĆI NAM RAZUMJETI S U T R A Š N J I C U. D R . M O R G A I N E G AY E , S VJ E T S K I P R I Z N A T A F U T U R O L O G I N J A , ZA ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY NAJAVLJUJE KLJUČNE TRENDOVE KROZ PRIZMU V A N J S K I H I U N U T A R N J I H U TJ E C A J A K O J I Ć E P O K R E TAT I B U D U Ć E P OT R O Š A Č E N A PI SA LA _ WORDS : MARTINA RAFAELI FOTO G R A FI JE_PHOTOS : DR MORGAINE GAY E P RESS

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BACK TO THE FUTURE THE JOB OF A FUTUROLOGIST IS TO A N T I C I PAT E T R E N D S A N D H E L P U S U N D E R STA N D TO M O R R O W A N D P U T I T I N C O N T E X T. I N A N I N T E R V I E W F O R A D R I A L U X U R Y S O C I E T Y, D R M O R G A I N E G A Y E , A W O R L D - R E N O W N E D F U T U R O L O G I S T, ANNOUNCES KEY TRENDS THROUGH THE PRISM OF EXTERNAL AND EMOTIONAL INFLUENCES WHICH THE CONSUMERS OF T H E F U T U R E W I L L B E D R I V E N B Y.

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rends are a very important element in business planning of the world's leading food companies, food and beverage producers, but also governments, numerous institutions and non-food, technology and media companies. We are now at a time when ideas and thoughts about what awaits us in the future are more important than ever. This very look into the future is what makes Dr Morgaine Gaye one of the world's top futurologists since her predictions are part of the strategies of global companies. Her specialty is food and food industry and she is the author of the first book of reports on food trends entitled Bellwether: Food Trends. In her practice, she studies food through various influences - social, cultural, economic and geopolitical - on the basis of which he shapes trends that affect the market. She collaborates on new product developments with companies such as Mondelēz, Mars, Unilever and Nestlé, among others. She gives her vision of future predictions for the next ten years and it is interesting that, in addition to the usual clients from the food industry, she also collaborates with numerous technology companies such as Panasonic, Siemens, Samsung, De’Longhi, Braun, BMW, etc.

Amazon’s online store of the future includes her predictions on how we will celebrate and share moments in the year 2050. Her research is valued in the academic world. She has also participated in the work of the European Parliament and is currently preparing a book on trends in food and why they are so important, entitled ‘A Taste of Things to Come’. Dr Gaye presents herself as a person who feels a great passion for her job because food strongly affects all of us every day.

With the changes taking place globally in the service industries and, inevitably, in the gastronomy and hospitality segment, the possible direction of the industry's recovery largely depends precisely on forecasting trends. And that includes much more than emotions and physiological needs for food because it is, as Dr. Gaye describes, “a complex concept that connects social characteristics, behaviours, geopolitical influence, beliefs, history, trends, fashion, art, marketing, sensory perception, biology, etc.”. When it comes to food, we make personal, cultural, social, political and proactive decisions every day - with every purchase, cultiva-

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rendovi su iznimno važan element planiranja poslovanja vodećih svjetskih prehrambenih tvrtki, proizvođača hrane i pića, ali i neprehrambenih, tehnoloških i medijskih kompanija, vlada te brojnih drugih institucija. Danas su ideje i zamisli o onome što nas očekuje važnije nego ikada prije, a upravo je pogled u budućnost ono što dr. Morgaine Gaye svrstava u vrh svjetskih futurologa jer njezina su predviđanja dio strategija globalnih svjetskih tvrtki. Gaye je stručnjakinja za hranu i prehrambenu industriju te autorica prvog priručnika o prehrambenim trendovima “Bellwether: Food Trends”. Proučavajući različite utjecaje – društvene, kulturološke, gospodarske i geopolitičke – predviđa kako će se razvijati tržište hrane u sljedećih deset godina. Među ostalima, surađuje s tvrtkama Mondelēz, Mars, Unilever i Nestlé, a zanimljivo je da, uz klasične klijente iz prehrambene industrije, radi i s brojnim tehnološkim kompanijama kao što su Panasonic, Siemens, Samsung, De'Longhi, Braun i BMW. Na njezina predviđanja o tome kako ćemo slaviti 2050. godinu oslanja se Amazonova internetska trgovina budućnosti, njezina istraživanja cijenjena su u akademskom svijetu, sudjelovala je u radu Europskog parlamenta, a trenutačno priprema knjigu o važnosti prehrambenih trendova “A Taste of Things to Come”. Dr. Gaye predstavlja se kao osoba koja osjeća veliku strast prema svojemu poslu jer hrana snažno utječe na sve nas, i to svakodnevno. U usluž-

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BUDUĆNOST JE U OKRETANJU LOKALNOM. KAO ŠTO JE TO BILO PRIJE TRI STOTINE GODINA KADA NISMO ZNALI ŠTO SE DOGAĐA U SVIJETU PA SMO SE BRINULI SAMO O SVOME SELU 78

LOCAL, LOCAL, LOCAL, THAT IS THE FUTURE. LIKE THREE HUNDRED YEARS AGO WHEN WE DID NOT KNOW WHAT WAS HAPPENING IN THE WORLD, WHEN WE ONLY CARED ABOUT OUR OWN VILLAGE

tion or consumption. In these times, which are challenging for most businesses, Dr Gaye answers key questions about the food and gastronomy market, but also the general trends that will mark the coming period.

How do you comment on the year 2020? Has it brought us anything good?

Over the last eight years, I have been talking about what is coming in 2020, in a sense of disruption. Two years ago, I was showing slides with people using face masks and hazmat suits, talking about being phobic about the air they breathe in, and people would just laugh about it back then. How could one have even imagined that this would have become true, that we would all be wearing face masks today. At the time, I did not fully understand what was going to happen, I did not know about the coronavirus, but I knew that 2020 would change humanity forever. This year and the next one will be a time of extreme changes, challenges, chaos… Things will stabilize in the year 2022, and in 2023 we will have a new plan. But the process is very demanding. When you are going through massive global change, what we are witnessing is the fragmentation of the economy, humanity, our belief system and the way we do things. Everything is changing and when that happens we have very unhappy people and a lot of distress. But this is also a time when lots of things die, but also many new things are being born. This is a time of great creativity and new ideas coming out.

Every day, world known chefs talk about the ideas of new menus, new horizons, reinventing, etc. What is your opinion on changes in food and restaurant services?

These are challenging times for so many businesses thinking what to do. And what they need to do is innovate, readapt, etc. Whether they like it or not, they will adapt. Part of the adapting which I expect to happen is that there will no longer be white tablecloths and formal dining. Everything will be simple, seasonal, with very small choice or even no option to choose.

nim djelatnostima, pa tako i u gastronomiji te hotelijerstvu, događaju se promjene na globalnoj razini, a mogući smjer oporavka prehrambene industrije uvelike ovisi upravo o predviđanju trendova. No to uključuje mnogo više od emocija i fizioloških potreba za hranom jer ona je, kaže dr. Gaye, “kompleksan pojam koji povezuje društvene karakteristike, ponašanja, geopolitički utjecaj, uvjerenja, povijest, trendove, pomodnost, umjetnost, marketing, senzornu percepciju te biologiju”. Svakoga dana donosimo osobne, kulturološke, društvene, političke i proaktivne odluke – svakom kupnjom, uzgojem ili konzumacijom hrane. U ovim, za većinu tvrtki zahtjevnim vremenima dr. Gaye odgovara na ključna pitanja o tržištu hrane i gastronomiji, ali i općim trendovima koji će obilježiti iduće razdoblje.

Kako komentirate 2020. godinu, je li nam donijela išta dobro?

Posljednjih osam godina govorila sam o onome što će se dogoditi 2020., o osjećaju ugroženosti. Prije dvije godine predviđala sam da će ljudi početi koristiti zaštitne maske i odijela te da ćemo se brinuti zbog zraka koji udišemo, no svi su se tome samo smijali. Kako bi itko i mogao zamisliti da će se to ostvariti, da ćemo svi nositi maske? Tada nisam u potpunosti razumjela što će se dogoditi, nisam mogla predvidjeti da će se pojaviti COVID-19, ali znala sam da će 2020. zauvijek promijeniti čovječanstvo. U ovoj i sljedećoj godini dogodit će se ekstremne promjene, izazovi, kaos…

Situacija će se stabilizirati 2022., a 2023. ćemo imati novi plan. No taj je proces vrlo zahtjevan. U vremenu masovnih globalnih promjena svjedočimo raspadanju ekonomije, humanosti, sustava vjerovanja i ustaljenih načina rada. Sve se mijenja. Ljudi postaju vrlo nesretni i izloženi su velikoj količini stresa. No iako puno toga umire, rađa se i nešto novo. Ovo je vrijeme velike kreativnosti i novih ideja.

Slavni chefovi svakodnevno govore o idejama za jelovnike, novim horizontima, novitetima... Kakve promjene očekujete kada je riječ o usluzi u restoranima?

Ovo je vrijeme izazovno za mnoge poslove. Restorani će se nastaviti inovirati i prilagođavati kao što to i inače čine. Željeli to ili ne, prilagodit će se.

Pretpostavljam da više neće biti bijelih stolnjaka i formalnog načina posluživanja te da možemo očekivati jednostavnu, sezonsku hranu i vrlo mali izbor ili čak nemogućnost odabira. Posluživat će se kratko, brzo i bez otpada jer neće biti dovoljno novca. Bit će ga samo za jednostavne forme. Restorani će biti nišni biznis, a jelovnici neće nuditi velik izbor, ponuda će možda stati na jednu stranicu ili će na meniju biti samo dva jela. Osim toga, moguće je da će posjetitelji donositi vlastite namirnice koje će chefovi koristiti za pripremu jela jer će ljudi više hrane samostalno uzgajati, ali i dijeliti.

KOJI TRENDOVI DOLAZE I K A KO Ć E O N I O B L I KO V AT I NAŠU BUDUĆNOST? Prije su ljudi trendove doživljavali kao malo zabave, nisu ih shvaćali ozbiljno. Nisu bili svjesni da zapravo nemaju izbora. Trendovi će vas "uvući". Sada počinju shvaćati da je sve to stvarnost.

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Prvi je nadolazeći trend ekološki futurizam. Budućnost je u prirodi – temama i motivima koje ćemo doživljavati svuda oko nas – u hrani, modi, dizajnu... Shvatit ćemo da smo svi dio jednog ekosustava. Željet ćemo prirodu uključiti i u svoje domove pa će kuhinje biti poput vrtova te ćemo radije i češće jesti na otvorenom. Dio tog trenda bit će selidbe izvan gradova jer će ljudi mijenjati način ž­ ivota.

Drugi trend koji dolazi jest preživljavanje. Nikada se dosad nismo trebali suočiti s pitanjem što nam je potrebno da bismo preživjeli.

No odjednom nam je sve oduzeto i shvatili smo da trebamo obitelj, prijatelje, dodir… Što napraviti ako naš dobavljač vode nije dostupan ili kada idemo u trgovinu, a tamo nema hrane ili toaletnog papira? Mnoge ćemo proizvode moći nabavljati bez ljudskog kontakta jer ljudi razvijaju fobije i počinju se bojati dodira. Svjedočit ćemo gubitku povezanosti jer COVID-19 ne nestaje, sada je dio naše stvarnosti. Pojavit će se brojne inovacije vezane uz vodu i opremu za preživljavanje, zaštitne maske, odjeću, rukavice i slično.

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Treći je trend multifunkcionalnost – kupovat ćemo rjeđe, ali birat ćemo kvalitetnije proizvode koji imaju više namjena. Zato je jedan od najvećih biznisa u svijetu hrane i njezine proizvodnje – otpad.

Pripremajući kavu, razmišljat ćemo kako možemo iskoristiti njezine ostatke ili pak koji nusproizvod možemo dobiti od pripreme slastica jer taj nusproizvod postaje novi proizvod. U fokusu će biti i gljive – od kojih ćemo izrađivati čak i namještaj! Shvatit ćemo da možemo iskoristiti sve ono što već imamo. Bit ćemo pametniji kada je riječ o inovacijama i smanjenju količine otpada. Nastojat ćemo se rješavati nepotrebnih stvari jer ćemo plaćati drugima da uzmu taj višak. I stvarno ćemo promišljati što nam treba, što ćemo kupiti.

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Četvrti je trend zaigranost. Rado ćemo se zabavljati i priželjkivati pozitivne stvari. Htjet ćemo osjećati i dijeliti radost. Naglasak će biti na ljudima, komforu, osjećaju da smo prihvaćeni. Zato ćemo birati meku i udobnu odjeću te uživati u hrani kao što su mekane japanske palačinke. Bit ćemo nostalgični jer kada situacija postane teška, kao što je to u recesiji, želimo se vratiti u vrijeme kada nam je bilo odlično. Zato ćemo češće odlaziti u šumu, na tiha mjesta, puno ćemo razmišljati o transformaciji, što znači biti čovjek te o meditativnom i mističnom životu.

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Restaurants will be open and serving for only a short time. The service will be quick. They will make simple meals with no waste. Restaurants will become much more niche businesses, and the meals will be prepared really well. And there will be no more menus with numerous pages but a simple menu, maybe on one page, or only two items on the menu to choose or with no choice at all. Also, it is possible that visitors to the restaurants will bring their own ingredients which the chef will be able to combine into the dish. It is because people will grow more crops on their own.

Food has always been an important part of the growth of world tourism. What will happen to gastro tourism in the future?

So far, we have had expansion, we have become a global culture and, as I predicted a few years ago, we will become local and start thinking about patriotism. Local, local, local, that is the future. Like three hundred years ago when we did not know what was happening in the world, when we only cared about our own village.

Your thoughts on water are also very interesting…

We can already see all kinds of water, gold infused water, water bottles decorated with crystals, ozone infused water, oxygen infused water, brewed water- fermented, but still water. The trend of designer waters is strong now, but very soon water depositories will open instead of having shops sell us water in plastic bottles.

LUKSUZ ĆE ZNAČITI KVALITETAN ŽIVOT, SLOBODU, TRENUTAK U KOJEM ŽIVIMO NAJBOLJE ŠTO MOŽEMO, POVEZANOST S PRIRODOM, LJUDSKI KONTAKT - SVE ONO ŠTO IMA DUBLJE ZNAČENJE I GLOBALNU VAŽNOST 80

WE WILL THINK ABOUT THE NOTION OF LUXURY AS THE QUALITY OF LIFE, FREEDOM, LIVING OUR BEST LIVES, INTEGRATED WITH NATURE, WITH HUMAN CONNECTION, WITH DEEP MEANING AND IMPORTANT GLOBAL PURPOSE

How will this situation reflect on luxury industry?

We are redefining the notion of luxury. Luxury used to be defined as possessing, and we will soon perceive it as shameful, as distasteful, old and out of step. We will think about the notion of luxury as the quality of life, freedom, living our best lives, integrated with nature, with human connection, with deep meaning and important global purpose. Luxury will be about what one did, how free they are, how simple their life is and the fact that they achieved that.

What things from the old normal will be transferred to the new normal?

It is hard to say. Since we are going in the direction of new, we can no longer identify with our old way of life, with our old self. It has only been eight months of the new normal and, while watching a TV show where people sit close together, a lot of us cannot believe it and wonder if that is okay. Because today we are constantly worried about whether we are too close or if we are wearing a mask. People will not go back to the old ways.

What can we expect from the end of 2020 and the beginning of 2021?

It is not going to be easy. I am very positive about the future, but we have to get through this first. There will be people who will suffer, people who will not suffer and people who can look beyond the kind of life they are currently living; they will see that this is just a moment in time. But in a short time, global change will happen. Winter, Christmas specifically, is the right period to start re-evaluating new traditions. We will begin to create new traditions, to be less greedy, less materialistic; we will think about what we can make, about values coming from the heart. January, February and March will be challenging, but one of the things we can gain will be a new shift in power because people will become the power; opening their eyes will be like revelation. People will wake up and that will be the change.

Hrana je oduvijek bila važan dio rasta svjetskog turizma. Kakva je budućnost gastro turizma?

Dosad se događala ekspanzija i postali smo globalna kultura. Kako sam predvidjela prije nekoliko godina, lokalna kultura ponovno će dobiti na važnosti, a sve je istaknutiji i patriotski način razmišljanja.

Budućnost je u okretanju lokalnom. Kao što je to bilo prije tri stotine godina kada nismo znali što se događa u svijetu pa smo se brinuli samo o svome selu.

Vrlo su zanimljiva i vaša razmišljanja o vodi…

W H AT A R E T H E F U T U R E TRENDS? HOW WILL THEY SHAPE OUR FUTURE? Trends used to be perceived by people as a little bit of fun. It was like a choice whether to like it or not. People mostly did not take them seriously. What people do not realize is the fact that now they do not really have a choice. Trends will “pull you in”. And now people are starting to realize that it is a real thing.

Već sada imamo različite vrste vode – onu koja sadrži zlato, obogaćenu ozonom ili kisikom, fermentiranu ili pak boce vode dekorirane kristalima i slično, a sve i dalje imaju okus samo po vodi. Naglašen je trend dizajnerskih voda i vrlo će se brzo otvoriti ulične trgovine za vodu koje će zamijeniti klasične male dućane.

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Kako će se ova situacija odraziti na industriju luksuza?

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Mi redefiniramo taj pojam. Prije je luksuz podrazumijevao posjedovanje, no to ćemo uskoro doživljavati sramotnim, kao nedostatak dobrog ukusa i nešto što ne odgovara vremenu u kojem živimo. Luksuz će značiti kvalitetan život, slobodu, trenutak u kojem živimo najbolje što možemo, povezanost s prirodom, ljudski kontakt – sve ono što ima duboko značenje i globalnu važnost. Luksuz će biti ono što činim, koliko sam slobodan, koliko je moj život jednostavan.

Hoće li se nešto od "starog normalnog" preoblikovati u "novo normalno"?

Teško. Razvijamo se u novom smjeru i ne možemo se više identificirati s našim starim načinom života te nama kakvi smo bili prije. Prošlo je samo osam mjeseci od pojave “novog normalnog”. Primjerice, mnogi se od nas, gledajući TV program gdje ljudi sjede zajedno, pitaju je li to u redu jer danas se neprestano brinemo držimo li dovoljan fizički razmak, nosimo li masku... Ljudi se neće vraćati na staro. Što možemo očekivati od kraja 2020. i početka 2021. godine?

Neće biti lako. Vrlo sam pozitivna kada je riječ o budućnosti, ali najprije trebamo preživjeti ovo što se događa sada. Realnost je takva da će mnogi ljudi patiti. Oni koji shvaćaju da je ovo samo trenutak, a ne nešto nepromjenjivo, to će lakše podnijeti. Ali tijekom nekog kraćeg razdoblja doći će do globalne promjene.

Zima, posebice Božić, vrijeme je početka određivanja novih tradicija. Bit ćemo manje pohlepni, manje materijalistički nastrojeni; razmišljat ćemo o tome što možemo sami izraditi te o nematerijalnim vrijednostima. Siječanj, veljača i ožujak bit će izazovni, ali ljudi će postati snažniji, probudit će se i to će biti promjena.

The first upcoming trend is eco futurism. The future is very much about nature, nature themes, motifs from nature and we are going to start seeing it everywhere; in food, fashion, design, etc. It is all about nature. We are starting to realize that we are one ecosystem. We will want nature inside our homes, kitchens will be more like gardens, we will ask to eat outside more, to be connected to nature. Part of that trend will be moving out of cities and people changing their lives.

The second trend will be survival. We have never before had to be confronted with the question of what it is that we need to survive.

Suddenly, everything was taken away from us and we realize we need family, friends, we need touch, etc. What happens when water supplier is disrupted, when we go to the supermarket and there is no food or toilet paper there? There will be many products served to us without contact because people are becoming phobic, in fear of touch. We will have an epidemic of disconnection. Because Covid-19 is not going anywhere, it has become part of our lives now. We will witness numerous innovations related to water, all kinds of survival equipment, protective masks, clothing, gloves, etc.

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The third trend is multifunctionality. We are going to buy less, but what we buy will be of better quality, with more than one function.

That is why one of the largest businesses in the world of food and its production is- food waste. So, if we make coffee, we can think about what else we can make with coffee grains or if we make sweets we can think about another by-product we can get. Because that byproduct becomes a new product. We can make fabric from orange peel or other food. We can even make furniture from mushrooms! It is all about what we can make from the things we already have. We will be very clever with innovations, have less waste and we will try to get rid of some of our belongings because everyone has got too much stuff. In the future we will not be able to get rid of them so we will be paying people to take those things away. And we will really think about what we need and what we are going to buy.

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The fourth trend is playfulness. It is all about wanting to play and wishing for good things. We want to feel joy and part of that joy is sharing. It is about people, comfort, just feeling snuggled so we are going to look for puffy and fluffy clothes and food like fluffy Japanese souffle pancakes. Part of that is nostalgia because when things get difficult, and this is the time of recession, we need to go back to a time when everything was great. That is why we will spend more time in the woods, in quiet places where we can think more about transformation, what it means to be human and about meditative and mystical life.

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SATOVI I NAKIT

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TRADICIJE

IZAZOVI S KOJIMA SE NOSI URARSKA INDUSTRIJA DUBOKO SU UZDRMALI TA J B A ST I O N K R E AT I V N O ST I , D I Z A J N A I T E H N O L O G I J E . OT K R I V A M O K A K V A J E B U D U Ć N O S T N A J P R E S T I Ž N I J I H S VJ E T S K I H I Z L O Ž B I S A T O V A I

N A K I T A T E K O L I K O J E U S PJ E Š N A D I G I T A L N A T R A N S F O R M A C I J A J E D N E O D NAJTRADICIONALNIJIH BRANŠI U SVIJETU LUKSUZA N A PI SA LA _ W O R DS: D UBR A VK A TOMEKOVIĆ ARALICA

FOTOGRAFIJE_PHOTOS : PRESS P HOTOS

WATCHES AND JEWELLERY | Britanski glumac Benedict Cumberbatch u videu “In A Breath” uspoređuje osjećaj za vrijeme tijekom meditacije i ronjenja s novim satovima Polaris Mariner manufakture Jaeger LeCoultre (lijevo); manufaktura MB&F u M.A.D. Galleryju predstavlja virtualnu izložbu kinetičkih instalacija “Forward Motion” američkog umjetnika Pedra Sancheza de Movellána | British actor Benedict Cumberbatch in the video ‘In a Breath’ compares the sense of time during meditation and diving with the new Polaris Mariner watches manufactured at Jaeger LeCoultre (left); MB&F Manufacture in its M.A.D. Gallery presents virtual exhibition Forward Motion, a collection of kinetic artworks by American artist Pedro Sanchez de Movellan

A NEW ERA OF

TRADITION T H E C H A L L E N G E S W H I C H T H E W A T C H M A K I N G I N D U S T R Y I S F A C I N G H A V E D E E P LY S H A K E N T H A T B A S T I O N O F C R E A T I V I T Y, D E S I G N A N D T E C H N O L O G Y. W E D I S C O V E R T H E F U T U R E W I T H T H E W O R L D ’ S M O S T P R E S T I G I O U S E X H I B I T I O N S A N D H O W S U C C E S S F U L LY T H E D I G I T A L TRANSFORMS ONE OF THE MOST TRADITIONAL INDUSTRIES IN THE WORLD OF LUXURY

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odina kao nijedna dosad. Tako protagonisti sektora urarstva i draguljarstva složno opisuju 2020., turbulentnu i prepunu izazova u svakom pogledu. Kada su potkraj prošle godine globalni igrači za procjene svjetskih trendova objavili svoje prognoze do 15 posto rasta industrije procijenjene na 586 milijardi dolara, nitko nije mogao ni pretpostaviti da će već u ožujku 2020. prodaja luksuzne robe pasti za 25 posto. Prema najboljem scenariju, bit će to rezultat pada prodaje u odnosu na prošlu godinu, a onaj najcrnji predviđa čak 45 posto.

Koliko su u tome nastradali urari i draguljari, još će se dugo zbrajati, no predviđa se da će se industrija luksuza oporaviti i dosegnuti rezultate iz 2019. tek za dvije godine.

Sve što su cijelo desetljeće manufakture satova i nakita ulagale u dizajn, poboljšanje tehničkih performansi i ekskluzivne promocije pandemija i ekonomska kriza anulirale su u samo nekoliko mjeseci.

Globalna nesigurnost nije zaobišla ni poštovatelje vrhunskih satova i nakita koji su jednostavno promije­nili popis prioriteta u trošenju novca. Urari i draguljari – pripadnici tradicionalno sporijeg, ali temeljitog sektora – morali su djelovati brzo i radikalno. Najveće svjetske izložbe satova i nakita u Ženevi i Baselu, na kojima su najprestižniji brendovi medijima i trgovcima desetljećima predstavljali svoje novitete, ove godine nisu održane. Umjesto tih velikih okupljanja krajem kolovoza u Ženevi je nekolicina brendova organizirala Geneva Days i na gotovo konspirativna predstavljanja novih modela satova, u apartmane vodećih hotela, pozvala malu skupinu novinara.

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Dok je Europa iščekivala drugi val pandemije, na drugom kraju svijeta, u Šangaju je početkom rujna pod najstrožim mjerama sigurnosti, održana četverodnevna manifestacija koja je okupila 3800 entuzijasta. U suradnji s digitalnom platformom Watches and Wonders održane su radionice, panel-diskusije i predstavljanja noviteta. No iz Europe je stiglo jako malo ljudi. Da takav oblik okupljanja i promoviranja nedostaje cijeloj branši, potvrđuju nam otac i sin Peter i Jure Malalan, čije se obiteljske draguljarnice Malalan nalaze u Zagrebu i Ljubljani, o čemu kažu: “Novitete smo mogli vidjeti posredstvom online platforme, svi su nam predstavljeni elektronički, a samo je nekoliko naših partnera došlo do nas. Iako smo se relativno brzo naviknuli na online suradnju, jako nam nedostaju susreti uživo s ljudima iz naše industrije, ona zajednička kava i dobar osjećaj pripadnosti branši. Nadamo se da ćemo to moći ponovno doživjeti iduće godine.”

VIRTUALNA STVARNOST PRUŽA KUPCU DETALJAN POGLED U SRCE SATA, NO NE MOŽE ZAMIJENITI LJUBAV NA PRVI DODIR VIRTUAL REALITY PROVIDES A DETAILED LOOK INTO THE HEART OF THE WATCH TO THE CUSTOMER, BUT STILL CAN NOT REPLACE THE LOVE AT FIRST TOUCH

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year like no other so far. That is how the protagonists of the watchmaking and jewellery sector unanimously describe 2020; turbulent and full of challenges in every respect. When late last year, global players released their forecasts of up to 15 percent industry growth, estimated at $ 586 billion, no one could have guessed that as early as March 2020, luxury goods sales would fall by 25 percent. According to the best-case scenario, this will be the result of a drop in sales compared to last year’s, and the worst-case scenario predicts as much as 45 percent drop. The loss watchmakers and jewellers have suffered will still be added up for a long time, but it is predicted that the luxury industry will recover no sooner than in two years’ time and reach the results from 2019.

Everything that watch and jewellery manufacturers have been investing in design, improvement of technical performance and exclusive promotions for a decade was annulled in just a few months by the pandemic and the economic crisis. Global insecurity has also affected high-end watch and jewellery lovers, which have simply changed the list of priorities in spending money. On the other hand, watchmakers and jewellers - members of a traditionally slower but thorough sector - had to act quickly and radically. The world’s largest exhibitions of watches and jewellery in Geneva and Basel, where the most prestigious brands presented their novelties to the media and retailers for decades, were not held this year. Instead of these large gatherings at the end of August in Geneva, several brands organized Geneva Watch Days and invited a small group of journalists to the almost conspiratorial presentations of new watch models, in the suites of partner hotels.

| Čuveni Chopardov reli, 1000 Miglia u talijanskom gradu Brescia, održan je u listopadu umjesto u svibnju, pod strogim epidemiološkim mjerama | Chopard’s 1000 Miglia rally in Italian city of Brescia, organised in October instead of May, was held in compliance with the prevailing public health regulations

Unatoč tome, posao nije smio stati. Malalani su ponešto promijenili portfelj brendova u svojim izlozima.

Tako satovi brenda Bulgari više nisu dostupni u njihovim prodavaonicama, ali su zato u Zagrebu i Ljubljani otvorili kutak za satove Cartier. Susrete s kupcima nisu prekinuli, štoviše, oni su postali još ekskluzivniji jer su se u pojedinačnoj prezentaciji više mogli posvetiti kupcu.

Kako se u svakom zlu nađe i nešto dobro, tako je i industrija satova i nakita svoju kreativnost više nego ikad prije usmjerila na nove, maštovitije oblike promoviranja svojih postignuća. Mnogi su se okrenuli prirodi i zaštiti njezinih ljepota ostvarujući suradnju s najboljim jedriličarima, roniocima, alpinistima, surferima, arhitektima i umjetnicima.

U cijeloj toj operaciji preispitivanja – što je zapravo pravi luksuz za konzumente koji traže svoj identitet u novim pravilima života – ekološka i socijalna osviještenost postale su jednako važne kao i digitalna platforma za prodaju satova i nakita.

“Ova je kriza poput apokalipse koja je ispod površine otkrila ono skriveno, što mi u industriji satova nismo mogli ili željeli vidjeti. Nezavisni urari moraju se držati svoje misije: biti neobični, potpaljivati maštu te se isticati u gomili”, smatra Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO i umjetnički direktor Ateliersa Louis Moinet, u kojem se od 1806. izrađuju urarska umjetnička djela. Kada je otkazan sajam u Baselu, shvatili su da svoju priču moraju ispričati na drugi način.

“Izložbe su mjesta na kojima predstavljate svoje satove, no digitalni svijet omogućuje vam da njihovu priču približite kupcima. Tako smo i mi prvi put u povijesti producirali tri videa u holivudskom stilu. U rekordnom smo roku svojoj web stranici dodali digitalni muzej i svoju ‘Crnu knjigu’, koja na sto stranica prati povijest Ateliersa Louis Moinet. No digitalna je tehnologija samo instrument. U središtu su naše pozornosti ljudi. Želimo razgovarati s kupcima i zato smo za njih otvorili radionicu u Saint-Blaiseu, u koju se lako mogu uključiti putem našeg weba.

Nudimo im i mogućnost da virtualno sudjeluju na predstavljanju prvoga kronografa, da dohvate Mjesec i posjete opservatorij u Neuchatelu. Na našu i njihovu radost, oslobađamo se rutine i stereotipova.”

Premda su i prije pandemije mnogi čelnici urarskih i draguljarskih manufaktura u medijskim istupima promovirali svoja djela, mnogi su sada postali protagonisti filmova ili su preuzeli ulogu novinara i putem različitih online platformi intervjuiraju prominentne sugovornike. Tako Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO IWC-a iz Schaffhausena, o arhitekturi, dizajnu i izradi satova razgovara s arhitektom Hanijem Rashidom koji je u New Yorku. U drugom pak videu

| Glumica Marion Cotillard i Caroline Scheufele, kreativna direktorica Choparda, zalažu se za etički čisto zlato (gore); nova “žaba” MB&F-a HM3 Frog X ponovno pomiče granice trodimenzionalnih satova – napravljeno je po deset primjeraka s odgovarajućim rotorom, brtvom i SuperLuminovom u tirkiznoj, ljubičastoj i plavoj boji (lijevo) | Oscar winning actress Marion Cotillard and Caroline Scheufele, Artistic Director of Chopard collaborate in promoting ethical jewellery (above); The new HM3 Frog X is pushing the limits of three-dimensional horology, crafted in three limited editions of 10 pieces each with matching rotor, gasket and Super-LumiNova in turquoise, purple and blue

On the other hand, while Europe was waiting for the second wave of the pandemic, a four-day event was held on the other side of the world, in Shanghai, in early September in strict compliance with the security measures, bringing together 3,800 enthusiasts. Workshops, panel discussions and presentations of novelties were held in cooperation with the digital platform ‘Watches and Wonders’. But very few people arrived from Europe. Peter and Jure Malalan, father and son, whose family-owned jewellery stores Malalan are located in Zagreb and Ljubljana, say that such form of gathering and promotion is what the entire industry lacks.

“We could see the novelties through the online platform. They were all presented to us online, and only a few of our partners came to us in person. Although we got used to the online collaboration relatively quickly, we really miss meeting with people from our industry in person over a cup of coffee and having that good feeling of belonging to the industry. We hope to be able to experience it again next year”, they add.

Despite all this, the business has to go on. The Malalans have somewhat changed the portfolio of brands in their shop windows. Thus, Bulgari watches are no longer available in their stores, but that is why they opened a Cartier watch corner in Zagreb and Ljubljana. They did not stop meeting with the customers, on the

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contrary, they became even more exclusive because they now they can dedicate more time to the customer in an individual presentation.

As there is always a silver lining, so has the watch and jewellery industry focused its creativity more than ever on new, more imaginative forms of promoting its achievements. Many have turned to nature and the protection of its beauties, collaborating with the best sailors, divers, climbers, surfers, architects and artists.

In this whole phase of re-evaluation of what luxury actually is to consumers looking for their identity in the new normal kind of living, environmental and social awareness have become just as important as the digital platform for selling watches and jewellery. | U novom butiku u Zürichu IWC kupcima osigurava interaktivni pogled u svoj svijet (gore); Chris Grainger-Herr, glavni direktor kompanije, u IWC-ovu filmu predstavlja ediciju Top Gun SFTI, pilotski kronograf | In a new flagship boutique in Zurich, IWC provides an interactive journey into its world (above); Chris Grainger - Herr, CEO of IWC in a movie about Top Gun SAFTI range of Pilot’s chronograph

Grainger-Herr i Christian Knoop, kreativni direktor IWC-a, razgovaraju s profesionalnim pilotima iz vojnih baza u Švicarskoj i San Diegu o svojim dječjim fascinacijama avijacijom. Vrlo uvjerljivo zvuče kada objašnjavaju kako napraviti savršen pilotski sat, zašto se, unatoč tehnološki naprednoj GPS opremi, piloti u kokpitu oslanjaju na ručni sat te otkrivaju posebnosti novog kronografa Top Gun iz IWC-ove manufakture. Za promociju sata, nema sumnje, sugestivniji su od bilo kojega glumca, a u novim ulogama vidljivo uživaju.

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Ipak, renomirani brendovi ne odriču se ni pomoći svjetskih filmskih i sportskih zvijezda. Tako kreativna direktorica Choparda Caroline Scheufele s Marion Cotillard predstavlja Ice Cube Capsule, kolekciju nakita koju je sudizajnirala ta slavna glumica, a zajedno pak pozornost usmjeravaju na upotrebu certificiranog etičkog zlata i dijamanata od certificiranih dobavljača. Umjesto profesionalnog ronioca koji bi ukazao na sve adute novih modela satova Polaris Mariner Memovox i Polaris Mariner Date, Jaeger‑LeCoultre izabrao je glumca Benedicta Cumberbatcha. U kratkom filmu “In A Breath” on uspoređuje meditaciju i ronjenje te utjecaj koji obje aktivnosti imaju na ljudski osjećaj za vrijeme. U drugoj priči Jaeger-LeCoultre promovira dijalog suvremene umjetnosti i urarstva. Izložbu “The Sound Maker” – zvučnu skulpturu, instalaciju švicarskog

“This crisis is like an apocalypse which has revealed what is hidden beneath the surface, what we in the watch industry could not or did not want to see.

Independent watchmakers must stick to their mission: to be unusual, to ignite the imagination and to stand out from the crowd”, says Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and artistic director of Ateliers Louis Moinet, which has been creating watchmaking masterpieces since 1806. When the Basel fair was cancelled, they realized they had to tell their story in a different way.

“Exhibitions are places where you present your watches, but the digital world allows you to bring the story closer to customers. So, for the first time in Louis Moinet’s history, we also produced three Hollywood-style videos. “We’ve redone our website in record time, adding the Digital Museum and our Black Book whose 100 pages retrace the history of Louis Moinet. But digital technology is only an instrument. People remain at the centre of our concern. We want to talk to customers and that is why we’ve opened our workshops in Saint - Blaise for them, which they can easily attend online via our website. We offer them the tours presenting the first chronograph in history, allowing visitors to reach for the Moon and visit the Neuchatel Observatory. To our and their joy, we are setting ourselves free of routine and stereotypes.”

Although many chairmen of watch and jewellery manufactures promoted their masterpieces in media appearances even before the pandemic, many have now become the main protagonists of films or have taken on the role of journalists and interviewed prominent people through various online platforms. So, for instance, there is a video in which Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, talks about architecture, design and watchmaking with architect Hani Rashid, who is located in New York. In another video, Grainger-Herr and Christian Knoop, the creative director of the IWC, along with professional pilots from military bases in Switzerland and San Diego, discuss their childhood fascinations with aviation. They sound very convincing when they talk about how to make the perfect pilot watch, and why pilots, despite technologically advanced GPS equipment in the cockpit, rely on a wristwatch and they also uncover the peculiarities about the new IWC Pilot Top Gun chronograph. Without a doubt, this is perfect for the promotion of the watch since they are more suggestive than any actors and they evidently enjoy the new roles.

However, renowned brands do not renounce the help of world film and sports stars. So, creative director of Chopard, Caroline Scheufele, along with Marion

suvremenog umjetnika Zimouna – nakon premijere u Kini izlagat će širom svijeta. Kolekcija od sedam kinetičkih instalacija američkog umjetnika Pedra Sancheza de Movellana na Instagramu je privukla pozornost osebujnih kreativaca iz urarske manufakture MB&F, koja često promovira originalne izričaje. Umjesto u nekom gradskom prostoru, sedam jedinstvenih, vibrantnih skulptura završilo je u virtualnomu M.A.D. Galleryju pa je izložba “Forward Motion” dostupna cijelom svijetu. Doživljaj, dakako, nije jednak kao kada je gledate uživo, kao ni kada čujete otkucaj sata ili pak dotaknete kreaciju od zlata s draguljima.

Hoće li to biti moguće na idućem Watches & Wonders okupljanju urara i draguljara u organizaciji grupacije Richemont, predviđene za travanj 2021. u Ženevi? Istodobno, od 8. do 12. travnja 2021.

MCH grupa, dosadašnji organizator Baselworlda, najstarijeg i najvećeg urarskog sajma na svijetu, najavljuje u Baselu održavanje nove manifestacije nazvane HourUniverse. Taj show žele pretvoriti u globalnu digitalnu platformu, aktivnu cijele godine, a u pet dana njegova fizičkog održavanja privući svjetsku urarsko-draguljarsku zajednicu. Nakon što su se iz Basela povukli Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel i Tudor – koji u Ženevi u travnju planiraju organizirati svoj show u suradnji s Watches & Wondersom – bit će zanimljivo pratiti budućnost ovih izložbi luksuza i brendova koji na njima promoviraju novitete. Tko će uspjeti?

Bezvre­menski, klasični, visokokvalitetni uraci koji će se diskretno, ali uvjerljivo nametnuti kupcima. Idealno u kombinaciji online podgrijavanja želje za kupnjom i ljubavi na prvi pogled pri fizičkom dodiru uživo.

Cotillard presents Ice Cube Capsule, a collection of jewellery co-designed by this famous actress, and together they focus on the use of ethical gold and diamonds from certified suppliers. Instead of a professional diver to point out all the key advantages of the new Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date watch models, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose actor Benedict Cumberbatch. In the short film “In A Breath”, he compares meditation and diving and the impact that both activities have on the human sense of time. As another example, Jaeger-LeCoultre enlarges the dialogue that exists between contemporary art and horology. The exhibition “The Sound Maker” - a ‘sound sculpture’; an installation by the Swiss contemporary artist Zimoun, will be exhibited around the world following its debut in China. The collection of seven kinetic installations by American artist Pedro Sanchez de Movellán attracted the attention of the creatives from the MB&F manufacture on Instagram. They often promote original artworks. Instead of in some urban space, seven unique, vibrant sculptures ended up in a virtual M.A.D. Gallery, so the “Forward Motion” exhibition is available to people worldwide. The experience, of course, is not the same as when you watch it live, nor when you hear the clock ticking or touch a golden artwork with jewels.

Will it be possible to experience it at the next Watches & Wonders gathering of the watch and jewellery industry organized by the Richemont Group, scheduled for April 2021 in Geneva? At the same time, from April 8 to 12, 2021, the MCH Group, the current organizers of Baselworld, the oldest and largest watch fair in the world, announces a new event called HourUniverse in Basel. They want to turn this show into a global digital platform, which will be active all year round, and at the physical five-day show they plan to attract the world’s watchmaking, jewellery and gems community. After Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel and Tudor withdrew from Basel – with a plan to organize their show in Geneva in April in collaboration with Watches & Wonders - it will be interesting to see the future of these luxury exhibitions and brands which promote novelties at these exhibitions. Who will succeed? Timeless, classic, high-quality artworks which will discreetly but convincingly engage customers. Ideally, in a combination of creating the desire to buy online and love at first touch in person.

| Transparentni tourbillon Cartier Pasha od ružičastog zlata s mehaničkim navijanjem | Pasha de Cartier Watch made of pink gold, mechanical movement with manual winding, tourbillon skeleton

| Limitirana edicija Hermesovih satova Arcau oslikana minijaturama posveta je očuvanju kanadske divljine | Hermes Arceau watches: limited edition with miniature painted aventurine dial dedicated to the Canadian Wild

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| Luksuzna drvena kutija za Cartierov sat Santos Dumont s kožnatom futrolom i gumbima za manžete | Cartier Limited and numbered edition: Santos Dumont wooden box with watch travel pouch and Santos de Cartier cufflinks collection

| Posvećenost očuvanju mora brenda Ulysse Nardin: sat Diver Net dizajniran je od ekološki prihvatljivih materijala i promovira ideju održivosti | Ulysse Nadin commitment: a concept watch Diver net which promotes sutainiblity has been designed as environmentally friendly as possible

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

MAXIMILIAN RIEDEL

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S T R A S T U Č A Š I NJEGOVANJE TRADICIJE S JASNOM VIZIJOM B U D U Ć N O ST I U S R Ž I J E B R E N D A R I E D E L . P R E D STA V N I K 11. GENERACIJE VLASNIKA GOVORI O IZAZOVIMA STVARANJA BESKOMPROMISNIH PROIZVODA KOJI P O STA V L J A J U T R E N D O V E I P R I D O N O S E J E D I N ST V E N O M ISKUSTVU ISPIJANJA VINA R A Z G OVA RALA_INTERV IEWED BY: MARTINA RAFAELI FOTO G R A FIJ E_PHOTOGRAPHS : P RESS

INTERVJU • INTERVIEW

A GLASS OF PASSION N U R T U R I N G T H E T R A D I T I O N W I T H A C L E A R V I S I O N O F T H E F U T U R E I S AT T H E C O R E O F T H E R I E D E L B R A N D. M A X I M I L I A N R I E D E L , T H E 1 1 T H G E N E R AT I O N C E O A N D P R E S I D E N T O F R I E D E L , A G L A S S W A R E M A N U FA C T U R E R , TA L KS A B O U T T H E C H A L L E N G E S O F C R E AT I N G U N C O M P R O M I S I N G P R O D U C TS T H AT S E T T R E N D S A N D CONTRIBUTE TO A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE OF WINE DRINKING

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dok se većina nas brine o onome što je u čaši, jedan je čovjek još 1958. odredio novi smjer uživanja u vinu. On je Claus Josef Riedel, osoba koja je predstavljanjem različitih čaša dizajniranih ovisno o karakteru vina pokazala kako oblik čaše utječe na ukupan doživljaj vina.

Danas je tvrtka Riedel najpoznatiji proizvođač vinskih čaša u svijetu. Ime je to tradicije dulje od 260 godina, a njihove su čaše, ali i drugi stakleni proizvodi, definicija savršenog dizajna, predmeti s pričom, za koje kažu da su najbolji odabir – kako za sommeliere i restorane, tako i za sve uživatelje u vinu. Ovu priču danas vrlo aktivno i progresivno nastavlja unuk Clausa Josefa Riedela, jedanaesti nasljednik ove loze uspješnika, koji razvija njegovu viziju i čini Riedelove inovacije atraktivnima osobama koje cijene kulturu vina. Europska tradicija proizvodnje vrhunskog stakla uz Maximiliana Riedela dobila je novu dimenziju, privlačnu klasičarima, ali i generaciji milenijalaca. On na vrlo atraktivan način nastavlja razvijati brend koji u portfelju ima specijalizirane čaše za sve najpoznatije vinske sorte, kao što su riesling, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir…, ali i za jednu hrvatsku sortu, malvaziju istarsku, za koju je Riedel kreirao čašu 2013. godine. Predstavio ju je, na tada jubilarnoj 20. Vinistri, tadašnji prvi čovjek tvrtke, Georg Riedel, Maximilianov otac. Iako se to tada činilo gotovo nemogućim, projekt je ostvaren zahvaljujući tvrtki Miva d.o.o., uvozniku Riedela, te nekolicini istarskih vinara koji su ga podržali. O toj su čaši, vinu, ali i Hrvatskoj brojni pratitelji rada i djela Maximiliana Riedela nedavno mogli više doznati u zanimljivom instagramskom formatu, tjednim razgovorima uživo s ponajvećim imenima iz svijeta vina sa sugovornicima kao što su Olivier Krug, vlasnik šampanjske kuće Krug, Vincent Chaperon, cellar master Dom Perignona, vinari iz obitelji Gaja i Frescobaldi, Veronique Drouhin… Bila je to prilika u kojoj se uz Maximiliana Riedela, ponajboljeg hrvatskog vinara Franka Kozlovića i Tomislava Tuđena, izvršnog direktora Mive i koordinatora projekta čaše za malvaziju, uživalo u priči ne samo o nastanku čaše nego i o razvoju ideje kako je od lokalnog proizvoda ta čaša našla svoje mjesto u cijelom svijetu. Jer Riedel je više od priče o čašama, to je priča o viziji, inovaciji i uspjehu.

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hile most of us now care more about what is in the glass, back in 1958, one man set a new direction when it comes to enjoying wine. His name was Claus Josef Riedel, a person who, by presenting different wine glasses, which are designed depending on the character of the wine, pointed out that the shape of the glass is what affects the taste of the wine. Today, Riedel is the most famous wine glass manufacturer in the world. It is a name with the tradition more than 260 years long. Their glasses, but also their glass products are the definition of the perfect design; glasses with a story; products said to be the best choice - for sommeliers, restaurants and all wine lovers. And the one who very actively continues this story is the grandson of Claus Josef Riedel, Maximilian Riedel, the 11th heir to this line of successful people; a person who continues to develop a vision and make Riedel innovations attractive to people who appreciate wine culture.

With him, the European tradition in the production of top-quality glass has gained a new dimension which is attractive to people who love classics, but also to the generation of Millennials. In a very attractive way, he continues the development of the brand which has, in its portfolio, specialized glasses for all the most famous wine varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, etc., but also one Croatian variety, Istrian Malvasia, for which Riedel created a glass in 2013. The glass was presented by the first man of the company back then, Georg Riedel, Maximilian’s father at the 20th Vinistra, international wine exhibition.

Although it seemed hardly possible at the time, the project was realized thanks to the company Miva d.o.o., the importer of Riedel products, and several Istrian winemakers who supported it. Numerous followers of Maximilian Riedel’s work could recently hear about this glass, wine and Croatia through an interesting Instagram format, weekly live conversations with the most important people from the wine world. The interlocutors were Olivier Krug- the owner of the champagne house Krug, Vincent

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Riedel je i dalje obiteljska tvrtka. Kako je njezina prošlost zastupljena u brendu?

Govoreći o identitetu, tvrtka je duboko ukorijenjena u najbolje od europske tradicije poduzetništva. Riedel Glass jedna je od najstarijih obiteljskih tvrtki u svijetu. Od samih početaka 1756. u Bohemiji, u Češkim šumama, do danas usmjereni smo na jedno – proizvodnju stakla visoke kvalitete.

Moj djed, Claus J. Riedel, kao predstavnik devete generacije, bio je odličan dizajner i inovativan istraživač. Otkrio je da na okus vina utječe oblik čaše iz koje ga pijete. Danas je Riedel tvorac prvog staklenog posuđa specifičnog za sorte grožđa u svijetu, inovacije koja je zauvijek nabolje promijenila smjer razvoja vinske industrije. Doživljavamo se kao podrška industriji vina, ali i kao ambasadori visokokvalitetnih proizvoda napravljenih u srcu Europe. Što vas razlikuje od konkurencije?

Najvažniji je način na koji stvaramo forme. Naše čaše ne dizajnira dizajner. Njihov je oblik rezultat naših radionica. Kada govorimo o čašama za vino, valja istaknuti da proces nastanka uključuje vinare, sommeliere i moj tim. Svi sudionici kušaju vino iz različitih oblika čaša za trajanja radionice. Možemo početi i sa do četrnaest čaša različitih svojstava. U svakom kušanju za svaku čašu ispitujemo njezinu funkcionalnost, bouquet, okus, doživljaj na ustima i konačni doživljaj, a svaki je korak opisan i ocijenjen u selektivnom postupku. Iza svakog vina određeni se broj čaša uklanja, sve dok ne ostane samo jedna. Ne znam ni za jednu drugu tvrtku koja ima naš know-how kada govori o presudnoj vezi između oblika čaše, okusa i arome. I ne znam nijednog konkurenta koji ulaže tolik napor u usavršavanje alata za uživanje u vinu. Riedel proizvodi i čaše za alkoholna pića, za vodu i za barove. I svaki oblik stvaramo na jednak način, u radionicama.

Na kojim je tržištima Riedel prisutan i kako je to biti aktivan sudionik svjetske scene?

Izvozimo u više od stotinu zemalja svijeta.

Naša je stopa izvoza oko 97% i za nas je ključno biti aktivan sudionik na globalnoj vinskoj sceni s kojom usko surađujemo.

Govoreći o brojkama, kolika je vaša godišnja proizvodnja?

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Chaperon- cellar master of Dom Pérignon, winemakers from the Gaja and Frescobaldi families, Véronique Drouhin, etc. There was an opportunity to enjoy the story of how the Riedel glass for Malvasia Istriana came about told by Maximilian Riedel, Franko Kozlović- one the best Croatian winemakers, and Tomislav Tuđen, executive director of Miva Wine Gallery and coordinator of the Malvasia wine glass project. They also talked about the development of the idea of how the glass, from being a local product, found its place in the world.

Because Riedel’s story is more than the story of a glass; it is a story of vision, innovation and success.

Riedel is still a family-owned company. How is its history set in the brand?

Speaking of identity, the company is deeply rooted in the best European tradition of entrepreneurship.

Riedel Glass is one of the oldest family-owned businesses worldwide. From the very beginning in the Bohemian forests in 1756 until today, we are focused on one thing only- high-quality glass production. My grandfather, Claus J. Riedel, the 9th generation representative, was a great designer and innovative researcher. He discovered that the taste of wine is affected by the shape of the glass which it is consumed from. Today, Riedel is the creator of the world’s first grape-specific glassware to enhance the flavour of wine, an innovation that has forever changed the direction of the wine industry. We see ourselves as supporters of the wine industry, but also as ambassadors for high-quality goods produced in the heart of Europe.

What sets you apart from the competition?

The most important thing is the way we create the shapes. Our glasses are not Proizvodimo oko 60 milijuna komada, od designed by a designer. The kojih je 200.000 ručno izrađeno. shapes of our glasses are the Koje su specifičnosti ovoga pandemijresult of our ‘glass tasting’ skog vremena kada je riječ o prodaji vaših workshops. When we talk proizvoda? of wine glasses it is worth | Maximilian s ocem Georgom koji je zaslužan za čašu noting that the process of Ova su vremena teška za sve nas. Pad uzroinspiriranu hrvatskom malvazijom | Maximilian with creation involves winemakovan pandemijom s kojim smo se morahis father Georg, who designed a glass inspired by kers, sommeliers, my team li suočiti, srećom, mogli smo nadoknaditi Croatian wine Malvasia Istriana and I. All participants taste povećanjem prodaje u našim online trgothe wine out of differentlyvinama, kao i povećanjem maloprodaje. shaped glasses during the Govoreći o čaši za malvaziju istrianu, zanimljivo je kako ste od lokalnog workshop. We might start with up to 14 glasses of proizvoda kreirali čašu koja je dostupna u cijelom svijetu. Možemo li different properties, including prototypes. In the njome proslaviti našu malvaziju? course of different flights for each glass, their functionality in terms of 4 sensations in wine- bouquet, Savršeno oblikovana čaša zasigurno pomaže pri uživanju u vinu, što će flavour, in-mouth sensation and finish- is reviewed posljedično podržati i popularnost ove sorte.

and evaluated in a selection process. After each wine, a number of glasses is eliminated by a show of hands until finally one glass prevails. I have not heard of any other company that has our know-how when it comes to the crucial interaction of glass shape, taste and aroma. And I do not know any competitor who invests this kind of effort into finetuning the perfect tool for wine enjoyment. Riedel also produces spirits glasses, bar glasses or water glasses. And each glass shape is created the same way – in ‘glass tasting’ workshops.

Which markets is Riedel present in and what is it like to be an active part of the world scene?

We export to more than a hundred countries in the world. Our export rate is around 97% and it is crucial for us to be an active participant in the global wine scene we work closely with.

Which markets is Riedel present on and what is it like to be an active participant of the global wine scene?

“NAŠE ČAŠE NE DIZAJNIRA DIZAJNER. NJIHOV JE OBLIK REZULTAT NAŠIH RADIONICA”

We export to over 100 countries around the globe. Our export rate is about 97%. It is crucial for us to be an active part of the global wine scene which we work very closely with.

Speaking of numbers, how big is your annual production?

We produce about 60 million pieces, 200,000 of which are handmade.

OUR GLASSES ARE NOT DESIGNED BY A DESIGNER. THE SHAPES OF OUR GLASSES ARE THE RESULT OF OUR ‘GLASS TASTING’ WORKSHOPS

What are the specific challenges of these pandemic times that you have encountered?

Koja je vaša vizija budućnosti? Je li vrijeme za inovacije, nove proizvode?

Talking about Malvasia Istriana glass, it is interesting that you created a glass for a local product and the glass is available world-wide. Can we make our Malvasia famous through your wine glass?

Riedel je obiteljska tvrtka pa je moj prvi i najvažniji cilj ne biti zadnji Riedel u dugoj lozi uspješnih predaka. Govoreći o proizvodima, nikada nismo u potpunosti zadovoljni postignutim, uvijek se preispitujemo i izazivamo. Stalno smo u potrazi za inovacijama kako bismo poboljšali percepciju, aromu i uživanje u vinu ili bilo kojem drugom piću.

Zato ostaje još puno toga što treba napraviti, čak i za generacije koje dolaze.

Zašto je oblik čaše toliko važan?

Tijekom godina Riedel je prikupio zanimljiva znanstvena objašnjenja zašto oblik čaše utječe na bouquet i okus alkoholnih pića. Prvo je otkriće nastalo u vrijeme uživanja u vinu. Isto vino imalo je potpuno različite karakteristike posluženo u različitim čašama. Razlike su bile tolike da su iskusni znalci vjerovali da kušaju različita vina. Sorta grožđa ključni je čimbenik u određivanju odnosa između voća, kiselosti, tanina i alkohola. Kao sljedeći korak Riedel je uspio stvoriti oblike u kojima se činilo da se vino, proizvedeno od određenih sorti grožđa, poboljšava. Počeli smo prepoznavati složenu ulogu koju veličina i oblik igraju u prenošenju poruke vrhunskog vina.

These times are difficult for all of us. Fortunately, we were able to make up for the loss we had to face by an increase in our online shop sales, as well as an increase in retail sales.

The perfectly shaped glass certainly helps to increase the wine enjoyment.

And consequently, it will contribute to the popularity of this grape variety.

What is your vision for the future? Is it time for inventions, new products?

Riedel is a family-owned business so my first and most important goal is not to be the last Riedel in this long line of successful ancestors. Speaking of products, we are never content with what we have achieved, we are always questioning and challenging ourselves. We are constantly looking for innovations and improvements to enhance the perception, the aroma and consequently the enjoyment of wine or any other beverage. So, there is still a lot left to do, even for next generations to come.

Why does shape matter that much?

Over the years, Riedel has acquired some interesting scientific explanations as to why the shape of a glass influences the bouquet and taste of alcoholic beverages. The first discovery was made while enjoying wine. The same wine displayed completely different characteristics when served in a variety of glasses. The differences were so great that experienced connoisseurs were made to believe that they were tasting different wines. The grape variety is the key factor in determining the relationship between fruit, acidity, tannin and alcohol. As the next step, Riedel was able to create glass shapes in which the wine, vinified from specific grape varieties, seemed to improve. We started to recognize the complex role that size and shape play in conveying the message of a fine wine.

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DVIJE VIZIJE

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SVAKI PREMIUM PROIZVOĐAČ AUTOMOBILA (RE)DEFINIRAO JE POJAM LUKSUZA NA SVOJ N A Č I N. D I G I TA L I Z A C I J A J E MERCEDESU OMOGUĆILA STVARANJE NOVIH VRIJEDNOSTI, A TRADICIONALISTI POPUT ASTON MARTINA POKAZUJU DA S E L U K S U Z M O Ž E U S PJ E Š N O S E R V I R AT I I K A O R E T R O S D O D AT KO M M O D E R N O G NA PI S AO _ W OR D S: KR IST IJ A N T IĆA K FOTO G R A F I J E _ P H OTO S: M E R CE D E S, A STO N M A RTIN

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normna razina komfora, bogati paketi opreme, iznimne performanse, napredna tehnologija, visoka razina kvalitete... Percepcija luksuza u svijetu automobila tijekom povijesti gotovo se i nije promijenila. Evoluirala je kvaliteta materijala i način njihove obrade, trendovi su se mijenjali (drvo, koža, plastika, aluminij, karbon... u unutrašnjosti), tehnologija je napredovala, ali luksuz je u osnovi ostao prepoznatljiv.

Pojedini su brendovi gradili svoj imidž i naposljetku uz naziv marke zaslužili i toliko željeni dodatak - premium. Marke poput Rolls-Roycea, Bentleyja, Mercedesa ili BMW-a godinama su podizale letvicu, nudile ono što smo donedavno smatrali nemogućim. Pamtimo epohe drastičnog povećanja kvalitete, a uz evidentan porast performansi i sigurnosti, svjedočili smo i osjetnom smanjenju potrošnje goriva. Sve su to donedavno bili temeljni parametri za definiranje luksuza koji su se dalje nadograđivali differentia specifica, tj. vrsnom razlikom.

Primjerice, britanska tradicionalna marka Bentley poznata je po tome što svoj luksuz, među ostalim, temelji na posvećenosti najsitnijim detaljima. Tako raskošno dotjeran primjerak modela Mulsanne, oznake 6.75 Edition, ima ambleme utkane u naslone sjedala, minijaturni poklopac motora na usmjerivačima

ASTON MARTIN DB5 GOLDFINGER & MERCEDES S-CLASS

BUDUĆNOSTI

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TWO VISIONS OF THE FUTURE E V E RY P R E M I U M C A R M A N U FA C T U R E R H A S ( R E ) D E F I N E D T H E C O N C E P T O F L U X U R Y I N T H E I R O W N W A Y. D I G I T A L I Z A T I O N H A S A L L O W E D M E R C E D E S T O C R E A T E N E W V A L U E S, A N D T R A D I T I O N A L I STS L I K E A STO N M A R T I N S H O W T H AT L U X U RY C A N B E S U C C E S S F U L LY S E R V E D A S R E T R O W I T H T H E A D D I T I O N O F M O D E R N

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zraka te prozirnu shematsku konturu V8 motora na instrumentima.

Gdje još možete pronaći takvu posvećenost detaljima i bezuvjetnu količinu kvalitete? I koja marka uopće više troši 400 radnih sati na sklapanje jednog automobila, kada znamo da ih se većina (kvalitetnijih) sastavi tijekom jedne radne smjene (osam sati).

SLAVNA PROŠLOST NA MODERAN NAČIN

Slično su razmišljali i u Aston Martinu, britanskom brendu koji je ponajprije proslavio tajni agent 007. “Goldfinger”, “Operacija Grom”, “Skyfall” i “Spectre” samo su neki od naslova filmova u kojima je James Bond, vozeći se usput u nekom od modela Aston Martina, spašavao svijet od zlikovaca.

Osim posvećenosti detaljima, u Aston Martinu odlučili su se okrenuti slavnoj prošlosti, iskoristiti Bondovo naslijeđe i publici servirati slavne klasičare s dodatkom modernih tehničkih rješenja. Ideja nije nepoznata, njome se koristi sve više proizvođača, a u svijetu automobila takve su replike poznate pod nazivom continuation car.

Konkretan primjer – Aston Martin DB5 - dolazi iz vremena kada je svijet bio konzervativno organiziran, tajni agenti nedodirljivi, a Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo još neokrnjeno carstvo. Proizveden je u gotovo 900 primjeraka (od 1963. do 1965.) te je u svijetu klasika jedinstven, neprocjenjiv i neponovljiv. Bilo koji DB5 na aukciji postiže vrtoglave iznose. U Aston Martinu više nisu željeli stajati postrani pa su odlučili svijet luksuza obogatiti sa 25 novih DB5, i to u originalnom ruhu iz filmova o Bondu, po cijeni od otprilike tri milijuna eura. Što je ono Q rekao Bondu? “Malo smo ga doradili. Vjetrobransko staklo otporno je na metke, bočni prozori također. I, naravno, registarska tablica rotiranjem se začas promijeni. Tu je i generator dima, raspršivač ulja, neprobojni stražnji zid, strojnica sprijeda, lijevo i desno.” Strojnica? Da, ali na “unaprijeđenom” modelu riječ je samo o svjetlosnim signalima. No zvuk pucnjave odgovara onom pravih Browninga. Stražnji je zid uistinu neprobojan, prskalica (samo za vodu) je pet tisuća puta testirana na trajnost. Podvozje?

Originalno, baš kao i Avonove gume i ZF-ov mjenjač. Iako je automobil nov, sve odgovara povijesnim detaljima. Što o svemu tome kaže Paul Spiers, šef Aston Martin Worksa?

“Svatko može sjesti u automobil u večernjem odijelu i osjećati se poput Jamesa Bonda. Uz 4500 sati, koliko ih se utroši na izradu svakog vozila, gotovo 500 sati odnosi se na lakiranje u boju Silver Birch, a nju nanosi uvijek isti lakirer. Kada bi to radilo više ljudi, postojao bi rizik od postizanja različitih nijansi jer svatko ima svoje tehnike”, opisuje Spiers.

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U britanskom Newport Pagnellu klasika se susreće s modernim aluminijska karoserija s čeličnom šasijom pa Spiers s razlogom obećava najbolji DB5 svih vremena. Čak su i konzervativci staroga kova zapanjeni sjajnom izradom spajanja metala, kože, plastike… Ma svega. A tek prelijepi drveni volan - otvoren, topao, s puno gripa...

NOVE TEHNOLOGIJE KAO NOSITELJI LUKSUZA | Osim posvećenosti detaljima, u Aston Martinu odlučili su se okrenuti slavnoj prošlosti, iskoristiti Bondovo naslijeđe | In addition to attention to detail, Aston Martin decided to turn to the glorious past and make good use of Bond's legacy

Luksuz koji nudi nova Mercedesova S-klasa sušta je suprotnost onome s kojim se susrećemo u retro replici Aston Martina.

Mercedesov admiralski brod oduvijek je bio mnogo više od luksuzne limuzine. Generacijama je S-klasa bila nositelj novih tehnologija koje su ponajprije služile za povećanje sigurnosti i komfora,

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normous level of comfort, rich equipment packages, exceptional performance, advanced technology, high level of quality- the perception of luxury in the world of cars has hardly changed throughout history. What has evolved is the quality of materials and the way they are processed. Trends have changed (wood, leather, plastic, aluminium, carbon, etc., in the interior), technology has advanced, but luxury has remained recognizable in its essence.

Some brands have built their image and eventually earned the much-desired addition to their brand name - premium. Brands like Rolls-Royce, Bentley, Mercedes or BMW have been raising the bar for years, offering what we until recently considered- the impossible.

We remember the times of drastic increase in quality, and in addition to the evident increase in performance and safety, we also witnessed a significant reduction in fuel consumption. Until recently, all of these were basic parameters for defining luxury, which were further upgraded by differentia specifica, i.e. the distinguishing feature.

For example, the British traditional brand Bentley is known for basing its luxury, among other things, on its commitment to the smallest details.

Such a lavishly trimmed model of Mulsanne 6.75 Edition has emblems woven into the backs of the seats, a miniature bonnet on the air deflectors and transparent schematic cutaway drawings of the V8 engine on clock and gauges in the front dash. Where else can you find such a commitment to detail and an unconditional quality? And what brand spends more than 400 working hours on assembling one car, when we know that most cars (of higher quality) are assembled during one working shift (eight hours).

U SVIJETU AUTOMOBILA TAKVE SU REPLIKE POZNATE POD NAZIVOM CONTINUATION CAR IN THE WORLD OF CARS SUCH REPLICAS ARE KNOWN AS CONTINUATION CARS

A GLORIOUS PAST IN A MODERN WAY

They thought similarly in Aston Martin, the British brand that was made famous by the secret agent 007. “Goldfinger”, “Operation Thunderball”, “Skyfall” and “Spectre” are just some of the titles of films in which James Bond, driving In an Aston Martin, saved the world from villains.

In addition to their attention to detail, Aston Martin decided to turn to its glorious past, take advantage of Bond’s legacy and serve the audience the famous classics with the addition of modern technical solutions. The idea is not new; moreover, more and more manufacturers use it. In the world of cars such replicas are known as continuation cars. For example, the Aston Martin DB5 comes from a time when the world was conservatively organized, secret agents were untouchable, and the United Kingdom was still an intact empire. It was produced in almost 900 saloon examples (between 1963 and 1965) and, in the world of classics, it is unique, invaluable and unrepeatable. Any DB5 achieves staggering value at auction. At Aston Martin, they no longer wanted to stand aside, so they decided to enrich the world of luxury with 25 new DB5s, equal to the original one from the Bond movies, at a price of approximately three million euros.

What was it that Q said to Bond? “We’ve installed some interesting modifications. The windscreen - bulletproof. As are the side and

the rear windows. Revolving number plates, naturally. Smoke screen. Oil slick. Rear bulletproof screen. And left and right front wing machine guns.” Machine guns? Yes! But on the new model these are just light signals that pop out from the front, with the sound effects that correspond the sound of a real Browning machine gun.

The rear screen is really bullet resistant and the rear simulated oil slick sprinkler (which ejects only water) has been tested for durability five thousand times. And the chassis? Original, just like the Avon tyres and ZF five-speed manual gearbox. Although the car is brand new, everything matches the historical details.

What does Paul Spiers, the head of Aston Martin Works, say about all this? “Anyone can sit in a car in an evening suit and feel like James Bond. Out of 4,500 working hours spent on making each vehicle, almost 500 hours is spent on painting it in Silver Birch

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GENERACIJAMA JE S-KLASA BILA NOSITELJ NOVIH TEHNOLOGIJA KOJE SU PONAJPRIJE SLUŽILE ZA POVEĆANJE SIGURNOSTI I KOMFORA, ČIME SE IZBORILA ZA SVOJEVRSNU EKSKLUZIVU FOR GENERATIONS, THE S-CLASS HAS BEEN THE PIONEER IN NEW TECHNOLOGIES WHICH WERE PRIMARILY USED TO INCREASE SAFETY AND COMFORT, AND THIS IS WHERE IT BECAME A SYNONYM FOR EXCLUSIVENESS

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| U aktualnoj S-klasi novost u kabini jest head‑up displej koji projicira sliku deset metara ispred auta kako bi vozač cijelo vrijeme imao pogled fokusiran na cestu | In the current S-Class, a new feature is the headup display which projects an image ten meters in front of the car so that the driver has the eye focused on the road at all times

čime se izborila za svojevrsnu ekskluzivu. ABS, ESP, zračni jastuci, predvidivi tempomat... Popis premijera u S-klasi toliko je dug da ne bi stao u cijeli časopis.

S-klasa je inženjerima oduvijek bila velik izazov, pogotovo u ova moderna vremena kada je luksuz poprimio potpuno novu konturu - onu digitalnu! Najednom se količina luksuza počela mjeriti brojem različitih mirisa (osvježivača) u kabini, bogatstvom i originalnošću tonova ambijentalnih LED svjetala, izmjenama prikaza instrumenata, mogućnostima inteligentnih LED svjetala koja automatski reagiraju na ostale sudionike u prometu, procjenom opasnosti od sudara i pravodobnom (automatskom) reakcijom, razinom autonomne vožnje ili pak opsegom online funkcija i vještinama umjetne inteligencije. Primjerice, u aktualnoj S-klasi novost u kabini jest head-up displej koji projicira sliku deset metara ispred auta kako bi vozač cijelo vrijeme imao pogled fokusiran na cestu.

Augmented Reality (AR, proširena stvarnost) pri aktiviranoj navigaciji dopušta iscrtavanje strelica za skretanje na samoj cesti, što olakšava snalaženje uz povećanje sigurnosti. Jedna od najvećih novosti je i da se MBUX-om (Mercedes-Benz User Experience) može individualno upravljati sa sva četiri sjedala u automobilu.

Najupadljiviji element, uz tablet smješten otraga koji se može (iz) vaditi iz automobila, velik je središnji monitor od 12,8 inča i rezolucije 1888 x 1728 piksela (201 dpi). Sve ikone na njemu zakreću se prema vozaču ili suvozaču, ovisno o tome čija se ruka približava ekranu. Naravno, sustavom se može upravljati i glasovnim komandama, i to tako da ih izgovarate bez zastajkivanja. Sustav je u međuvremenu toliko evoluirao da raspoznaje i asocijacije pa kažete li, primjerice, glasovnu naredbu “voda”, ispisat će sve restorane koji se nalaze u blizini jezera ili rijeke.

Ako S-klasu dijeli nekoliko vozača, svatko od njih može izraditi vlastiti profil i pohraniti pripadajuće podatke/postavke. Sustav ih štiti, i to tako da se vozačev profil aktivira tek kada prepozna njegovo lice, glas ili otisak prsta, što čini putem kamere smještene u instrumentima. Čak i bez vozačevih postavki, sustav prepoznaje visinu njegova pogleda i prema njemu podešava prikaz proširene stvarnosti na head-up displeju.

Komfor S-klase je sveobuhvatan i opsežan jer Mercedes želi putnicima pružiti najveću udobnost, a pritom nudi intuitivno upravljanje sustavima, što čini kombinacijom akcije, govora i gesti. Primjer?

Počne li vozač voziti unatrag i okrene glavu, automatski se spušta stražnje sjenilo. Ako pak ne okrene glavu unatrag, sustav polazi od pretpostavke da se orijentira putem kamere (360 stupnjeva) i monitora. Kompleksnost tih sustava nevjerojatno je složena - samo head-up jedinica ima 30-ak milijuna linija softverskih kodova koji u konačnici sustavu omogućuju više od 1000 funkcija. ŠTO DONOSI BUDUĆNOST?

Prije svega nikad viđenu raznolikost! Kupac će moći birati pogone (struja, hibridni, vodik), nadograditi online funkcije, ažurirati napredne sigurnosne sustave, povećati razinu komfora te, prema nekim vizijama, čak manjim dijelom mijenjati dizajn vozila. Različite personalizacije, kako količinom tako i opsegom, utjecat će na razinu luksuza kojom zrači pojedini automobil. I, naravno, baš kao i dosad, svaki će proizvođač svoj specijalitet spremati prema - vlastitom receptu.

colour, and it is always applied by the same painter. If more people did it, there would be a risk of achieving different shades because everyone has their own techniques”, Spiers explains.

In the British Newport Pagnell, where Aston Martin Works is located, the classic meets the modern - an aluminium body with a steel chassis, so Spiers promises the best DB5 of all time for a reason.

Even the old school conservatives are amazed by the great workmanship of joining metal, leather, plastic, etc., actually by everything. And the beautiful three spoke steering wheel with laminated wooden rim is- warm and with a good grip.

moved from the car, is a large central monitor of 12.8 inches and a resolution of 1888 x 1728 pixels (201 dpi). All icons on it rotate towards the driver or front passenger, depending on whose hand is approaching the screen. Of course, the system can also be controlled by voice commands, by saying them without pausing. In the meantime, the system has evolved so much that it recognizes associations, so if you say, for example, the voice command “water”, it will list all the restaurants located near the lake or river.

If the S-Class is shared by several drivers, each of them can create their own profile and store the corresponding data / settings. The system protects them, so that the driver’s profile is activated only when it recognizes the driver’s face, voice or fingerprint, which it does through a camera located in the instrument panel. Even without the driver’s settings, the system recognizes the driver’s eye position and adjusts the augmented reality display on the head-up display accordingly.

The comfort of the S-Class is comprehensive and extensive because Mercedes wants to provide passengers with maximum comfort, while offering intuitive control of the systems with a combination of action, speech and gestures. For example, if the driver starts to drive backwards and turns their head, the rear sunshade automatically lowers. If, on the other hand, the driver does not turn their head backwards, the system assumes that they are oriented by a camera (360 degrees) and a monitor. These systems are incredibly complex - the head-up unit alone has about 30 million lines of software code that ultimately allows the system more than 1000 functions.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD?

NEW TECHNOLOGIES AS LUXURY

The luxury offered by the new Mercedes S-Class is the exact opposite of what we encounter in the retro replica of the Aston Martin.

Mercedes’ flagship has always been much more than a luxury sedan.

For generations, the S-Class has been the pioneer in new technologies which were primarily used to increase safety and comfort, and this is where it became a synonym for exclusiveness. ABS, ESP, airbags, predictable cruise control, etc. - the list of novelties in the S-Class is so long that it would not fit in the entire magazine.

The S-Class has always been a great challenge for engineers, especially in these modern times when luxury has taken on a whole new direction – the digital one! Suddenly, luxury began to be measured by the number of different scents (air fresheners) in the car’s cabin, the varieties and originality of the tones of ambient LED lights, changes in instrument panel, capabilities of intelligent LED lights that automatically react to the ongoing traffic, collision risk assessment and timely (automatic) response, level of autonomous driving, etc. Or by the range of online functions and artificial intelligence skills. For example, in the current S-Class, a novelty is the head-up display which projects an image ten meters in front of the car so that the driver has the eye focused on the road at all times.

When navigation is activated, Augmented Reality (AR) allows the drawing of turn arrows on the road itself, which facilitates navigation while increasing safety. One of the biggest news is that the MBUX (short for Mercedes-Benz User Experience) can be controlled individually from all four seats in the car. The most striking element, along with the tablet located in the back that can be (re)

First of all, a diversity never seen before! The customer will be able to choose the drives (electricity, hybrid, hydrogen), upgrade online functions, update advanced safety systems, increase the level of comfort and even slightly change the design of the vehicle. Different personalizations, both in quantity and scope, will affect the level of luxury specific to each car. And, of course, just like before, each manufacturer will prepare their specialty according to their own recipe.

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| Tekst donosi Kristijan Tićak, urednik magazina Auto motor i sport | Author of this story is Kristijan Tićak, Editor in Chief of the Auto motor sport magazine

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PROJEKT:

JEDINSTVEN EXPERIENCE

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P R E D J E D N O M O D N A Š I H N A J I STA K N U T I J I H ARHITEKTICA MLAĐE GENERACIJE, MAJOM BRUČIĆ, REALIZACIJA JE JEDINSTVENOG P R O J E K TA P E T R A M R E S O R T & R E S I D E N C E S U SAVUDRIJI. VLASNIŠTVO NEKRETNINE U EKSKLUZIVNOM RESORTU U SVIJETU FUNKCIONIRA I KAO INVESTICIJA, A S ARHITEKTICOM SMO RAZGOVARALI O GRADNJI IZA KOJE STOJI JEDNA O D N A J V E Ć I H S R B I J A N S K I H R E A L - E STAT E T V R T K I RAZGOV ARALA_INTERV IEWED BY: IZAB ELA VRTAR FOTOGRAFIJ E_PHOTOS : PRESS

PROJECT:

UNIQUE EXPERIENCE ONE OF OUR MOST PROMINENT ARCHITECTS O F T H E YO U N G E R G E N E R AT I O N , M A J A B R U Č I Ć, IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE R E A L I Z AT I O N O F A U N I Q U E PROJECT NAMED PETRAM RESORT & RESIDENCES IN SAVUDRIJA. OWNING A PROPERTY IN AN EXCLUSIVE RESORT IN THE WORLD IS A L S O A N I N V E S T M E N T. W E TA L K E D TO T H E A R C H I T E C T ABOUT THE CONSTRUCTION FUNDED BY ONE OF THE LARGEST SERBIAN REALE STAT E C O M PA N I E S .

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ada se jedna vrata zatvore, druga se otvore – rečenica je koja bi pobliže mogla opisati stanje koje naša regija, ali i cijeli svijet doživljavaju u 2020. godina. Jer novo normalno nekima je otvorilo mogućnost vrhunskih projekata i iskustava te osnažilo potrebu za jedinstvenim i luksuznim nekretninama. Za arhitekticu Maju Bručić, osnivačicu i direktoricu studija Lotus Group, ta nova vrata otvaraju “zlatni ključevi” jer je njezin novi veliki projekt u Savudriji, Petram Resort & Residences, drugačiji od svega dosad viđenog u regiji – oaza je to hedonizma, luksuza i onoga pravog joie de vivre. Nakon mnogih zapaženih projekata odrađenih kod nas i u svijetu, ovaj dolazi kao kruna njezinog dosadašnjeg rada. Riječ je o konceptu življenja koji je u svijetu već neko vrijeme poželjan među klijentima visoke platežne moći – ekskluzivnom resortu u kojem su apartmani i kuće u privatnom vlasništvu, dok su usluga i sadržaj unutar kompleksa poput onih u hotelu s pet zvjezdica. Od vrhunskih restorana i butika, preko wellness i relax sadržaja osmišljenih u suradnji s najsnažnijim svjetskim bren-

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hen one door closes, another one opens - it is a sentence that could describe in more detail the situation that our region, but also the whole world, are experiencing in 2020. Because the new normal has opened the possibility of working on top projects and new experiences for some and emphasized the need for special, unique and luxurious real estate. For architect Maja Bručić, the founder and director of Lotus Group, this new door opens with a ‘golden key’ because her new big project in Savudrija, Petram Resort & Residences, is different from anything seen in the region so far - it is an oasis of hedonism, luxury and that real joie de vivre. After many notable projects done in our country and in the world, this one comes as the crown of her work so far. It is a concept of living that has been desired in the world for some time among high-paying clients - an exclusive resort where apartments and houses are privately owned, while the service and

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dovima, ovakvi resorti nude ekskluzivnost u hedonističkom, luksuznom okruženju na vrhunskoj lokaciji. U resortu se sve nekretnine prodaju pa svaki vlasnik stana, apartmana ili vile može odlučiti hoće li cijelo vrijeme uživati u svojoj rezidenciji ili će na nju gledati kao na investiciju i koristiti je samo dio godine, a drugi dio godine dati je menadžmentu hotela na upravljanje.

Iza investitora Vojislava Galića i njegove tvrtke Aleksandar Grupa projekti su poput stambenih i poslovnih kompleksa Kapija Vračara u Beogradu, Taurunum u Zemunu, Aleksandar Bulevar Centar u Novom Sadu te K District i The One u Beogradu, a u ovu jedinstvenu priču u Hrvatskoj planiraju uložiti 83 milijuna eura. Petram Resort & Residences, čije je dovršenje planirano u ljeto 2022., sadržavat će 252 nekretninske jedinice, svaka će imati pogled na more, te tri dizajna opremanja i interijera - luxury, eclectic i mediteranski.

“Vojislav Gajić na čelu tvrtke Aleksandar Group i ja imali smo istu viziju u kojem smjeru želimo ići pa smo moj tim i ja dobili golemu podršku na svim područjima - formiranje koncepta, svih sadržaja, dizajna... Nismo se razilazili ni u čemu i to je veliki blagoslov koji iznimno cijenim i na njemu sam jako zahvalna. Tada se lakše radi, rezultati su daleko bolji i sve ide brzo. Stoga je projektiranje Petram Resorta bilo predivna sinergija investitora, mene i mojeg tima”, govori Maja Bručić.

Vaš novi projekt, Petram Resort & Residence, jedinstven je po svojoj namjeni. Koliko je ta ekskluzivnost utjecala na vaš rad i kako vas je usmjerila u projektiranju?

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Cilj je bio ostvariti koncept koji je poznat među nekim high-end brendovima kao što su, primjerice, Four Seasons Hotel and Residences, Six Senses, Aman…. Lokacija projekta je Savudrija, najzapadnija točka Republike Hrvatske, a prednost joj je blizina zapadne Europe, blizina golfskih terena te svih gastronomskih lokaliteta koje Istra kao regija pruža. Nastojali smo kreirati posebnost u toj ekskluzivnosti pa se na krovu aparthotela nalazi najduži infinity bazen na krovu bilo koje zgrade u Europi i drugi najduži na svijetu - odmah iza infinity bazena na vrhu hotela Marina Bay u Singapuru. Infinity bazena na krovu hotela Marina Bay u Singapuru dug je 150 metara, a naš - na krovnoj terasi Petram Resort & Residences - bit će dug 105 metara.

Na tom “dečku”, osim ekskluzivnog bazena dugog 105 metara koji “sjedi” na dva odvojena dijela, tako da jednim dijelom lebdi i konzolno “izlazi” van kako bi se pojačao infinity osjećaj, nalaze se high-end wellness i gym s pogledom na more te ekskluzivni restoran koji ima pogled na more u radijusu od 270 stupnjeva.

Takve rezidencije uključuju jedinstveno iskustvo unutar resorta.

Kako je on zamišljen?

Uključivat će gastronomiju, wellness and retreat, fashion i lifestyle.

Razgovaramo s nekoliko brendova, kao što su Zuma, Cipriani i Massimo Bottura, a za upravljanje wellnessom zainteresirani su poznati svjetski brendovi u tom segmentu. Lokali će biti prodani ili dani u najam i ekskluzivnim brendovima odjeće. U planu su i pop-up restorani u ljetnom razdoblju te gostovanja poznatih chefova iz cijelog svijeta. Resort će imati jedan high-end brend restorana, jedan koji će predstavljati lokalnu gastronomiju, što uključuje Istru i Italiju pod vodstvom poznatog chefa iz Italije, te restoran s naglaskom na vegansku i kreativnu zdravu kuhinju.

facilities within the complex are like those in a 5-star hotel. From top restaurants and boutiques, to wellness and relax facilities designed in collaboration with the world’s most powerful brands, such resorts offer exclusivity in a hedonistic, luxurious environment in a top location. In the resort, all real estate is for sale, so that each owner of an apartment, suite or villa has the option to decide whether to enjoy their residence the whole time or to perceive it as an investment and use it only one part of the year, and sublet it to the hotel management the other part of the year.

The investor Vojislav Gajić and his company Aleksandar Group have previously done projects such as residential and business complexes Kapija Vračara in Belgrade, Taurunum in Zemun, Aleksandar Bulevar Centar in Novi Sad, and K District and The One in Belgrade, and they plan to invest € 83 million in this unique project in Croatia. The Petram Resort & Residences, which is scheduled to be completed in the summer of 2022, will feature 252 property units, each with sea views and three furnishing and interior designs: luxury, eclectic and Mediterranean.

“Mr. Vojislav Gajić, Head of Aleksandar Group, and I had the same vision in which direction we should go, and my team and I received huge support in all areas - from the formation of the concept, all content, design, etc., we had no differences of opinion and it is a great blessing that I greatly appreciate and which I am very grateful for. It is easier to work that way; the results are far better and everything goes faster. So, the design of the Petram resort was a wonderful synergy of the investors, me and my team”, says Maja Bručić.

Your new project, Petram Resort & Residence is unique in its purpose. To what extent has this exclusivity influenced your work and how has it guided you in designing?

The goal was to implement a concept that is known among some high-end brands, such as Four Seasons Hotel and Residences, Six Senses, Aman, etc. The location of the project is Savudrija, the westernmost point of the Republic of Croatia, and its advantage is the proximity of Western Europe, the proximity of golf courses and all gastronomic sites that Istria as a region provides.

We tried to create uniqueness in all that exclusivity. So, on the roof of the aparthotel is the longest infinity pool located on the roof of any building in Europe or the second longest in the world – right after the infinity pool at the top of the Marina Bay Hotel in Singapore. The length of the infinity pool on the roof of the Marina bay hotel in Singapore is 150 m, and the length of ours - on the roof terrace of our Petram Resort & Residences - will be 105 m. On that deck, besides the exclusive infinity pool, which is located on top of two separate parts so that one part of it is floating and projecting from the wall to enhance the infinity feeling, there is a highend wellness and gym with sea view and an exclusive restaurant that has a sea view in a radius of 270 degrees.

Such residences include a unique experience within the resort.

What will it include?

It will include gastronomy, wellness and retreat, fashion and lifestyle.

We are negotiating with several brands such as Zuma, Cipriani and Massimo Bottura, and there is also interest in wellness management by world-renowned brands in this segment. The premises will be

C I L J N A M J E B I T I G R E E N A N D S U STA I N A B L E - POVEZIVANJE S PRIRODOM, ŠTEDNJA ENERGIJE I, NAPOSLJETKU, STVARANJE ARHITEKTURE KOJA ŽIVI U SKLADU S P R I R O D O M . I M A L I Š T O L J E P Š E O D T O G A? OUR GOAL IS TO BE GREEN AND SUSTAINABLE. CONNECTING WITH NATURE, SAVING ENERGY AND ULTIMATELY CREATING AN ARCHITECTURE THAT IS IN HARMONY WITH NATURE. IS THERE ANYTHING MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN THAT?

sold or rented out also to exclusive clothing brands. There are also plans for pop-up restaurants in the summer and guest appearances by famous chefs from all over the world. The resort will have one high-end brand of restaurants, one that will represent local gastronomy, which includes Istrian and Italian cuisine, under the guidance of a famous chef from Italy and a restaurant with an emphasis on vegan and creative healthy cuisine.

From the perspective of buyers from the region, such real estate is a novelty. Do investors expect interest of the buyers from the region or are foreign buyers the target?

Iz perspektive kupaca iz regije takve su nekretnine novost. Očekuju li investitori zanimanje iz regije ili su u fokusu strani kupci?

Već sada bilježimo interes iz cijelog svijeta, ima kupaca iz regije, ali isto tako iz zapadne Europe i Amerike. Dosta je kupaca iz Švicarske koji su zainteresirani za lokale, čak i za kupnju restorana koje bi onda dali na upravljanje određenom brendu. Situacija povezana s COVID-19 pridonijela je boljem razvoju i prodaji projekta jer se mnogi boje ići u klasične hotele. Ovo je dobar hibrid u kojem su usluge i sadržaji kao u najboljem hotelu/resortu s pet zvjezdica, a kupci imaju svoju nekretninu, privatnost i izoliranost ovisno o potrebi i želji.

Kako ste zamislili identitet resorta i koliki je bio utjecaj investitora na krajnji projekt?

Što povezuje sjeverozapadnu Istru i rajski užitak življenja? Je li to njezin poznati kamen (lat. petra, tal. pietra), korišten i za gradnju bajkovite Venecije? Je li to svjetionik arhitekta Pietra Nobila, prvi na Jadranu, koji je ribare i trgovce koji su dolazili brodovima upozoravao na prekrasnu regiju koja se nalazi pred njima? Jedan je drugi Pietro - Petar, Sveti Petar, u kršćanskoj vjeri bio ribar, a najčešće ga vidimo na velikim zlatnim vratima kako u ruci drži ključeve kraljevstva nebeskog.

Sve je povezano i upravo sve to našem rezidencijalno-turističkom projektu daje pravo da ponese ime Petram. Ova bajkovita lokacija donosi prekrasnu tradiciju, a ujedno i rajski, hedonistički sadržaj – uz vrhunske materijale, dizajn, vizure i usluge. Svojim će klijentima i vlasnicima omogućiti da okrenu ključ u zlatnim vratima i prepuste se potpunom užitku za sva osjetila, i to uz prepoznatljiv, zlaćani zalazak sunca u zapadnoj Istri.

Koje lokacije u Hrvatskoj smatrate vrhunskim za razvoj luksuznog turizma?

We already have inquiries from all over the world. There are customers from the region, but also from Western Europe and America.

There are a lot of customers from Switzerland who are interested in business premises, and even in the purchase of restaurants, which they would then sublet to a certain brand. This situation with COVID-19 has contributed to better development and sales of the project, many are afraid to go to classic hotels, and this is a good hybrid in which services and facilities are like in the best 5 * hotel / resort, and yet buyers have their own property, privacy and isolation according to their own needs and desires.

How did you envision the identity of the resort and to what extent did the investors influence the final project?

What connects northwestern Istria and the heavenly pleasure of living? Is it its famous stone (petra in Latin, pietra in Italian), also used to build the fairytale Venice? Is it the Savudrija fishing heritage, which has always offered top delicacies of this region on the tables? Is it the lighthouse by the architect Pietro Nobilo, the first on the Adriatic to warn fishermen and merchants coming by boat of the beautiful region in front of them? Another Pietro - Peter, Saint Peter, was a fisherman in the Christian faith, and he is most often portrayed standing by the great golden gates holding the keys to the heavenly kingdom in his hand.

All this is connected and it is what gives our residential and tourist project the right to bear the name Petram. This fairytale location brings a wonderful tradition, and at the same time heavenly, hedonistic content - with top quality materials, design, views and services. It will enable its clients and owners to turn the key in the golden door and indulge in complete pleasure for all the senses - with a recognizable, golden sunset of western Istria. Petram is a new synonym for the heavenly pleasure of living because there are new

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Definitivno bih kao najstabilniju destinaciju za razvoj luksuznog turizma, koja može i funkcionira tijekom cijele godine, izdvojila Istru.

Tu su, naravno, i Dubrovnik te Hvar. Veliki potencijal ima i Split zbog aerodroma, ali treba riješiti povezanost otoka (Hvar, Brač, Korčula, Vis). Nedostaju nam aerodromi na otocima jer turizam ne može biti luksuzan ako ljudi moraju putovati trajektom.

Veliku pozornost medija nedavno je izazvao vaš projekt Valens Residences koji se naziva i “sto posto hrvatska vila”. Može li lokalna industrija biti konkurentna u premium segmentu gradnje i dizajna?

Može, naravno, pitanje je samo zahtjeva li investitor ili kupac da ta vila bude opremljena poznatim svjetskim brendovima opreme i namještaja. Ako ne postoji takav zahtjev, onda itekako možemo biti konkurentni. Riječ je o ljudskom faktoru, a to je da sve bude kvalitetno izgrađeno i proizvedeno u čemu smo uspjeli u vili Valens Residences.

Održiva gradnja sve je veća tema u arhitekturi i gradnju. Kako se ona očitava u vašim projektima?

Posljednjih pet godina na našim projektima isključivo koristimo obnovljive izvore energije za grijanje, hlađenje i toplu vodu, materijale koji su u skladu s tim - toplinske pumpe, fasadne sustave koji su energetski jako učinkoviti i slično. Cilj nam je biti green and sustainable - povezivanje s prirodom, štednja energije i, naposljetku, stvaranje arhitekture koja živi u skladu s prirodom. Ima li što ljepše od toga?

Pripadnica ste mlađe generacije arhitekata i u posljednje vrijeme preuzeli ste mnoge velike i jedinstvene projekte. U čemu se ističete i koja je vaša prednost na iznimno konkurentnom tržištu regije, u kojoj su velike investicije mnogo rjeđe nego izvan granica? Što je vaš signature design?

Smatram da je jedna od ključnih stvari razumijevanje klijenta, njegovih potreba, razumijevanje projekta i projektnih ciljeva, razumijevanje tržišta i financijskog aspekta (da se ne pretjeruje tamo gdje ne treba pretjerivati). Tu su i velika kreativnost u izričaju, postizanje wow efekta, pomicanje konstruktivnih granica na više i bolje, uvijek povezivanje s prirodom i lokalitetom te brzina realizacije.

N A STO J A L I S M O K R E I R AT I P O S E B N O ST U

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TO J E KS K L U Z I V N O ST I . TA KO S E N A K R O V U A PA R T H OT E L A N A L A Z I N A J D U Ž I I N F I N I T Y BAZEN NA KROVU BILO KOJE ZGRADE U EUROPI ILI DRUGI NAJDUŽI NA SVIJETU ODMAH NAKON INIFINITY BAZENA NA VRHU H OT E L A M A R I N A B AY U S I N G A P U R U WE TRIED TO CREATE UNIQUENESS IN ALL THAT EXCLUSIVITY. SO, ON THE ROOF OF THE APARTHOTEL IS THE LONGEST INFINITY POOL LOCATED ON THE ROOF OF ANY BUILDING IN EUROPE OR THE SECOND LONGEST IN THE WORLD – RIGHT AFTER THE INFINITY POOL AT THE TOP OF THE MARINA BAY HOTEL IN SINGAPORE

materials, fresh design ahead of the trends, sustainable construction, fragrant Mediterranean horticulture and open views combined with an innovative concept of property maintenance and management.

The investor’s impact was positive and great; every week we coordinated with the whole team, had support in every way and, as I mentioned earlier, we agreed on everything, had the same goals and ideas and saw eye to eye about the investment which ultimately lead to a great result. On such large projects, creativity gains more importance and comes to the fore even more.

Which locations in Croatia do you consider the top locations for the development of luxury tourism?

I would definitely single out Istria as the top location for the development of luxury tourism since it is the most stable destination, popular throughout the year. Of course, there are also Dubrovnik and Hvar. Split also has great potential due to the airport, but there should be a better connection with the islands (Hvar, Brač, Korula, Vis). The airports on the islands are what is missing because tourism cannot be luxurious if people have to travel by ferry.

Your Valens Residences project, which is also called ‘one hundred percent Croatian villa’, recently attracted a lot of media attention.

Can the local industry be competitive in the premium segment of construction and design?

Yes, of course it can. The only question is whether the investor or the buyer requires that the villa is equipped with world-famous brands of equipment and furniture. If there is no such requirement, then we can definitely be competitive. It is about the human factor.

Everything needs to be well built and produced with quality, which we succeeded in at Villa Valens Residences.

Sustainable construction is a hot topic in architecture and construction. How is it reflected in your projects?

For the last five years, we have been using renewable energy sources exclusively for heating, cooling and hot water in our projects; materials that are in line with that - heat pumps, facade systems which are very energy efficient, etc. Our goal is to be green and sustainable.

Connecting with nature, saving energy and ultimately creating an architecture that is in harmony with nature. Is there anything more beautiful than that?

You are a member of the younger generation of architects and have recently taken on many large and unique projects. How do you stand out and what is your advantage in a highly competitive market in a region where large investments are much rarer than abroad? What is your signature design?

I find understanding the client, his needs, understanding the project and project goals, understanding the market and the financial aspect (not to exceed where you shouldn’t) as key things. There is also great creativity in expression, creating a wow effect, moving constructive boundaries to higher and better, always connecting with the nature and the site, and the speed of carrying out the project.

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PROMO

UMJETNIČKI NAKIT IZ SRCA BEČA K U Ć A L U KS U Z N O G N A K I TA F R E Y W I L L E D O P O S L J E D N J E G D E TA L J A POSVEĆENA JE BESPRIJEKORNOM IZGLEDU I IZRADI SVAKOGA KOMADA . NJEZINA POVIJEST OTKRIVA SVEVREMENSKU VIZIJU BRENDA KOJI DONOSI KREACIJE INSPIRIRANE TRADICIJOM, PRIRODOM I OMILJENIM UMJETNIČKIM DJELIMA

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središtu Beča od davne 1951. godine s najvećom pažnjom i posebnom ljubavlju izrađuje se jedinstven FREYWILLE luksuzan nakit od pečenog emajla ukrašen 24-karatnim zlatnim prahom.

Originalan, drukčiji i poseban, kao vrhunski spoj umjetnosti i modernog nakita, diljem svijeta oduševljava ljubitelje umjetnosti i profinjene estetike raskošnim te živopisnim motivima, od kojih su posebno upečatljivi oni inspirirani remek-djelima majstora slikarstva kao što su Monet, Klimt, Hundertwasser, Van Gogh, Gauguin i Mucha.

FREYWILLE postavlja potpuno nove standarde na tržištu nakita in-

zistirajući na apsolutnoj umjetničkoj autentičnosti. Razvojni proces kolekcije traje i do dvije godine, a stvaranju finalnog dizajna prethode brojne skice s mnogo kolorističnih detalja te opsežan istraživački rad.

Ovaj je iznimni pristup izradi nakita osobna zasluga generalnog direktora i vlasnika tvrtke dr. Friedricha Willea te kreativne direktorice Simone Grünberger-Wille, bračnog para snažno posvećenog umjetnosti i inspiriranog radošću življenja. Sinergijom talenata i ljubavlju prema

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umjetnosti, dizajnu i kulturi razvili su obiteljski posao koji je sada globalno poznat kao luksuzni brend FREYWILLE. Friedrich Wille se kao financijski i pravni savjetnik 70-ih godina pridružuje tvrtki koju je 1951. godine osnovala Michaela Frey te otkriva njezin puni potencijal. Ovaj uspješni bečki i svjetski poduzetnik snažnu povezanost s umjetnošću, koju je osjećao od svoje najranije mladosti, pretvara u životnu strast koja ga ohrabruje da snažno utječe i razvija poslovanje brenda FREYWILLE. Pomoću svoga afiniteta prema umjetnosti, kulturi, putovanju i hedonizmu uspostavlja globalno uspješnu i svjetski poznatu kompaniju kakva je danas. Naime, 80-ih godina prošlog stoljeća, nakon smrti Michaele Frey, odlučuje se otkupiti kompaniju i postaje njezin jedini vlasnik te stvara novi FREYWILLE umjetnički duh angažirajući mladi tim akademski obrazovanih umjetnika pod kreativnim vodstvom talentirane Simone Grünberger koja je poslije postala njegova žena.

Godine 1999. za FREYWILLE logotip odabrana je Sfinga jer taj simbol najbolje odražava fizički, ali i kulturalni aspekt korporativnog identiteta tvrtke. Ona utjelovljuje jedan od najstarijih snova čovječanstva: letje-

T H E M A N U FA C T U R E R O F L U X U RY J E W E L L E RY F R E Y W I L L E I S D E D I C AT E D TO T H E L A ST D E TA I L TO T H E F L A W L E S S LOOK AND WORKMANSHIP OF EACH PIECE. ITS HISTORY REVEALS A TIMELESS VISION OF A BRAND WHICH M A K E S C R E AT I O N S I N S P I R E D BY T R A D I T I O N, N AT U R E A N D FA V O U R I T E WORKS OF ART

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ART JEWELLERY FROM THE HEART OF VIENNA

ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY

JEDINSTVEN PROCES STVARANJA

ti poput orla, imati snagu i eleganciju snažnog lava, a sa spiritualnim i intelektualnim kapacitetom ljudskog bića.

Za FREYWILLE Sfinga predstavlja snagu i kreativnost.

FREYWILLE desetljećima diljem svijeta predstavlja sinonim za originalan umjetnički nakit i ekskluzivne modne dodatke. Ove vrhunske raskošne kreacije izrađuju se jedinstvenim i iznimno složenim procesom pečenja emajla koji podrazumijeva više od 80 pojedinačnih koraka, od kojih je većina ručni rad. Posebno je kompleksan postupak ornamentiranja u kojem se svaki najsitniji detalj i motiv raskošnog dizajna dugotrajno osmišljava te vrlo precizno oslikava.

FREYWILLE je razvio tehnologiju koja se nastavlja na tradiciju rukom oslikanog emajla kakav se radio u 18. stoljeću – minijature na zapečenom emajlu. To je bila ekstremno skupa tehnika, od koje se potkraj 18. stoljeća odustalo jer nije bilo moguće prodavati tako skupe radove.

Svaka boja nanosila se rukom i morala se posebno zapeći na točno određenoj temperaturi jer ako se prepeče, emajl pukne i može ga se baciti. Pečenje emajla vrhunsko je zanatstvo i uvijek mora biti postignuta stopostotna preciznost. U FREYWILLE ateljeu također se sve oslikava rukom. Autentičan FREYWILLE stil kreirao je 80-ih godina prošlog stoljeća entuzijastičan tim umjetnika, zlatara i stručnjaka za fino emajliranje pod vodstvom Simone Grünberger-Wille, kreativne direktorice. Uz ključnu ulogu koju je imala u tom procesu, ona do danas ostaje jedna od središnjih osoba u svakodnevnom poslovanju tvrtke FREYWILLE. Do danas je kreirano čak oko 20.000 različitih dizajna nakita, ali uvijek se izrađuju samo male količine od najviše nekoliko stotina primjeraka.

Danas FREYWILLE prodajnu mrežu čini čak više od

A UNIQUE CREATION PROCESS

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FREYWILLE has been synonymous with original art jewellery and exclusive fashion accessories for decades worldwide. These topnotch luxurious creations are made with a unique and extremely complex enamel firing process which involves more than 80 individual steps, most of which are done manually. The ornamentation process is especially complex because even the smallest detail and motif of lavish design is planned for a long time and painted very meticulously.

FREYWILLE has developed a technology that continues the tradition of hand-painted enamel as it was made in the 18th century; miniatures on fired enamel. It was an extremely expensive technique, which was abandoned in the late 18th century because it was not possible to sell such expensive works. Each paint was applied by hand and had to be fired separately at a specific temperature because if it is overly done, the enamel cracks and can be discarded.

Firing enamel is a top craft and one hundred percent precision must always be achieved. In the FREYWILLE studio, everything is also painted by hand. The authentic FREYWILLE style was created in the 1980s by an enthusiastic team of artists, goldsmiths and fine enamelling experts led by Simona Grünberger-Wille, creative director. In addition to the key role she played in the process, she remains one of the central figures in FREYWILLE’s day-to-day business operations to this day. As many as 20,000 different jewellery designs have been created so far, but only small quantities of a maximum of a few hundred copies are made.

100 luksuznih butika koji se nalaze na najatraktivnijim lokacijama svjetskih metropola u čak 35 država na četiri kontinenta, a od rujna 2012. među njima je i Zagreb.

U samom srcu Lenucijeve potkove, u Preradovićevoj 2, okružen muzejima i kulturnim znamenitostima, smjestio se impresivan FREYWILLE butik. Klasičnih, čistih formi i luksuznog dizajna, svijetle i izražajne atmosfere uz promišljeni razmještaj i postavku najljepših zbirki nakita podsjeća na umjetničku galeriju, ali i na snažnu kulturnu i povijesnu povezanost Zagreba i Beča.

Dolazak na hrvatsko tržište bila je dugogodišnja želja vlasnika kompanije dr. Friedricha Willea jer predivan i povijesno bogat Zagreb, koji je Beč u malom, osjeća kao svoj drugi dom.

FREYWILLE 2014. prvi put otvara vrata i virtualnog online butika koji elegantnim dizajnom vjerno prenosi atmosferu interijera ekskluzivnih butika diljem svijeta.

Najljepše umjetničke minijature od emajla tu se mogu razgledati brzom i lakom online pretragom, kao i doznati detaljne informacije o njihovoj izradi i dizajnu te ekskluzivne priče o nadahnućima za kolekcije.

FREYWILLE online u Hrvatskoj možete posjetiti klikom na shop.freywille.com/hr.

| FREYWILLE umjetnici u svom su kreativnom radu uvijek dosljedni visokim kriterijima tvrtke, a oni uključuju temeljito znanje iz područja povijesti umjetnosti i detaljan istraživački rad | In their creative work, FREYWILLE artists are always consistent with the high criteria of the company which include thorough knowledge in the field of art history and detailed research work

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n the centre of Vienna, since 1951, with the greatest care and special love, unique FREYWILLE luxury jewellery has been made from fired enamel fused with 24k Gold powder. Original, different and special, as a superb blend of art and modern jewellery, it delights lovers of art and refined aesthetics all over the world with luxurious and colourful motifs, of which those inspired by masterpieces of masters such as Monet, Klimt, Hundertwasser, Van Gogh, Gauguin and Mucha are especially striking.

| Jedinstvene FREYWILLE kreacije posvećene su i inspirirane svjetskim velikanima slikarstva kao što su Vincent va Gogh, Claude Monet, Gustav Klimt, Alfons Mucha i Friedensreich Hundertwasser | The unique FREYWILLE creations are dedicated to and inspired by world art masters such as Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet, Gustav Klimt, Alfons Mucha and Friedensreich Hundertwasser

FREYWILLE sets completely new standards in the jewellery market by insisting on absolute artistic authenticity. The development process of the collection lasts up to two years, and the creation of the final design is preceded by numerous sketches with many colour details and extensive research work. This exceptional approach to jewellery making is to the credit of the CEO and owner of the company, Dr Friedrich Wille and creative director Simona Grünberger-Wille, a couple strongly dedicated to art and inspired by the joy of living. With a synergy of talent and a love of art, design and culture, they have developed a family business that is now globally known as the luxury brand FREYWILLE. As a financial and legal advisor in the 1970s, Friedrich Wille joined the company founded by Michaela Frey in 1951 and discovered its full potential. This successful Viennese and world-class entrepreneur turns his strong connection to art, which he felt from his earliest youth, into life passion that encourages him to strongly influence and develop FREYWILLE’s business. Through his affinity for art, culture, travel and hedonism, he established a globally successful and world-renowned company as it is today. Namely, in the 1980s, after the death of Michaela Frey, he decided to buy out the company and become its sole owner and create a new FREYWILLE artistic spirit by hiring a young team of educated artists under the creative leadership of the talented Simona Grünberger, who later became his wife.

In 1999, the Sphinx was chosen for the FREYWILLE logo because it best reflects the physical and cultural aspect of the company’s corporate identity as a symbol. It embodies one of humanity’s oldest dreams: to fly like an eagle, to have the strength and elegance of a powerful lion, and with the spiritual and intellectual capacity of a human being. For FREYWILLE the Sphinx represents strength and creativity.

Today, the FREYWILLE sales network consists of as many as 100 luxury boutiques. They are located in the most attractive locations of the world’s metropolises in as many as 35 countries on four continents, and since September 2012, Zagreb is one of them. In the very heart of Zagreb, at 2 Preradovićeva Street, surrounded by museums and cultural sights, there is an impressive FREYWILLE boutique. With luxurious design, bright and expressive atmosphere and thoughtful arrangement and display of the most beautiful jewellery collections it reminds of an art gallery, but also of the strong cultural and historical connection between Zagreb and Vienna.

Arriving to the Croatian market was a long-standing wish of the company’s owner, Dr Friedrich Will, because the beautiful and historically rich Zagreb, which is like a smaller version of Vienna, feels like a second home to him.

FREYWILLE opened a virtual online boutique for the first time in 2014.

With its elegant design, it faithfully conveys the interior atmosphere of exclusive boutiques around the world. The most beautiful enamel art miniatures can be viewed there with a quick and easy online search, as well as the detailed information about their production, design, and exclusive stories of inspiration for collections. You can visit FREYWILLE online at shop.freywille. com/hr.

RAZVOJNI PROCES KOLEKCIJE TRAJE I DO DVIJE GODINE, A STVARANJU FINALNOG DIZAJNA PRETHODE BROJNE SKICE S MNOGO KOLORISTIČNIH DETALJA TE OPSEŽAN ISTRAŽIVAČKI RAD THE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS OF THE COLLECTION LASTS UP TO TWO YEARS, AND THE CREATION OF THE FINAL DESIGN IS PRECEDED BY NUMEROUS SKETCHES WITH MANY COLORISTIC DETAILS AND EXTENSIVE RESEARCH WORK

FREYWILLE, Preradovićeva 2, Zagreb & online boutique at shop.freywille.com/hr

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“STVARNO UMJETNIČKO DJELO MOGU DOŽIVJETI SAMO U REALNOSTI” NASLOVNICU OVOG BROJA MAGAZINA ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY KRASI SLIKA “ N A VJ E Š T E N J E ” P R O S L A V L J E N O G H R V ATS KO G U M J E T N I K A L O V R E ARTUKOVIĆA , S KOJIM SMO RAZGOVARALI O INSPIRACIJI, RADU I LJEPOTI KAO S A STA V N O M D I J E L U P R I V L A Č N O ST I NJEGOVIH DJELA R A Z G OV AR A LA _ I N TER VI EW ED BY: D UBR A V K A TOMEKOVIĆ ARALICA

| Ulje na platnu “Na prozoru” | Oil on Canvas “At the window”

FOTO G R A FI JE_ PH OTO G R A PH S: IVAN POSAVEC

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tkako od sredine osamdesetih godina svoja djela izlaže na samostalnim i grupnim izložbama, njegove slike – ulja na platnu, šperploči i MDF ploči – te crteže ugljenom na papiru, osim u Hrvatskoj, vidjela je i likovna publika u Aleksandriji, Ankari, Beču, Berlinu, Budimpešti, Krakovu, Lisabonu, Münchenu, Moskvi, Parizu, Pragu, Sarajevu, Skoplju… Svoju posljednju skupinu djela, sastavljenu od 43 slike, Lovro Artuković, rođeni Zagrepčanin koji od 2003. živi u Berlinu, nazvao je “Usporavanje”. U zagrebačku Modernu galeriju, nacionalni muzej moderne umjetnosti, privukao je mnogo posjetitelja, a od početka prosinca isti će ciklus biti izložen u Umjetničkoj galeriji Dubrovnik.

Kada dosegnu životnu zrelost, mnogi umjetnici postaju produktivniji i mahnito slikaju. Koji je bio vaš okidač zbog kojeg ste izabrali ritam usporavanja?

Mislim da je Louise Bourgeois rekla kako se mogla ozbiljno posvetiti umjetnosti tek kada se riješila muževa, djece i ljubavnika. Tako

mi je nekako ostalo u sjećanju, nadam se da nisam pogrešno prenio njezine misli. U jednom trenutku, potpuno biološki, više nemate potrebu raditi nešto što vam je nekada oduzimalo puno vremena i koncentracije ili vam to prestane imati smisla. Ako se to dobiveno vrijeme, bez distrakcija i s jednakom strašću kojom se prije živjelo, iskoristi za rad, mogu se dogoditi čuda. Nisam želio “štancati” djela nego sam, unatoč ovom vremenu površnosti i brze potrošnosti, odlučio pokušati napraviti nešto kvalitetno prema vlastitim standardima. Nešto što će i od mene i od promatrača zahtijevati da usporimo, zastanemo i stvarno se posvetimo slici.

U kakvoj su vezi kod vas produktivnost i radna disciplina?

Relativno sam neproduktivan, slike stvaram sporo i dugo. Nisam ni posebno discipliniran, jednostavno imam potrebu stvarati, ali to ne radim prema nekom rasporedu. Osim toga, smatram da radim i kada ne radim jer tada punim baterije nečim što će se jednom možda odraziti na slike. Dakle, gotovo bih mogao reći da radim i kada spavam.

Koji vam je detalj najzahtjevnije naslikati i zašto?

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| Ulje na platnu “Jesenjski izlet”, ulje na MFD ploči “Lene u potopu”i crtež ugljenom na papiru “Brandenburška palma” (prema snimci Gunter Lepkowski) | oil on canvas “Autumn excursion”, oil on MDF board “Lene in a deluge”, charcoal on paper “Brandenburg palm” (photographed by Gunter Lepkowski)

Svi su mi detalji na slici jednako važni, uglavnom ih obrađujem jednakom pažnjom, stoga su mi svi jednako zahtjevni. Kada se umorim stvarajući sliku, znam zamuljati ili ostaviti nešto poludovršeno, ali ako ona ostane kod mene, vratim joj se te novom energijom i novim iskustvom nastavim raditi na njoj.

Kakvu atmosferu želite postići ugljenom, a kakvu uljem na platnu?

Budući da ne moram miješati boje, ugljen mi omogućava da se potpuno posvetim motivu. Korištenje boja je zahtjevnije jer one su žive i moram voditi računa o njihovoj snažnoj prisutnosti. Neću reći da je tada motiv u drugom planu, na mojim slikama to svakako nije slučaj, ne radim apstraktno, ali u posljednje se vrijeme trudim bojama ostaviti više prostora da slobodno dišu.

Frustrira li vas što neke slike stvarate i dulje od dvije godine?

Ne. Mislim da je za mnoge moje slike bilo presudno upravo to što sam im se vratio nakon duljeg razdoblja. Čini mi se kako neke slike jednostavno ne žele da ih stvaram, da to ne zaslužujem sve dok ne savladam neke nove razine, tada mogu nastaviti.

Kako izgleda taj čarobni osjećaj zadovoljstva i olakšanja kada završite sliku?

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asfaltu, a ne Berlin. To sam oduvijek želio slikati, a poklopilo se s mojim boravkom u Berlinu.

Koja vam mjesta u Berlinu najupečatljivije ocrtavaju duh grada i zašto?

U Berlinu ljudi uglavnom žive u svom Kiezu (četvrt) pa ne mogu govoriti o gradu u cjelini. Golem je i strukturiran je tako da svaka četvrt ima uglavnom sve potrebne sadržaje. Najčešće se krećem u krugu od kilometar i pol oko svog ateljea i rijetko odlazim u druge kvartove. Moj je atelje već dvanaest godina smješten na granici Kreuzberga i Neuköllna, u blizini Hermannplatza, koji nije baš na dobrom glasu. Ondje je okupljen velik broj naroda, rasa, skupina, hipstera, čudaka svih vrsta, ostarjelih hipija, dilera, narkomana, beskućnika, besposličara, radnika i umirovljenika, turista i mnogo mladih ljudi željnih zabave. Ponekad je iritantno i naporno, bučno i agresivno, ali neobično je kad se nađete negdje gdje je mirno.

Posljednjih godina osjećaju se posljedice izbjegličke krize te su prisutni problemi manjka stambenog prostora i kriminala, ali živo je i još se osjeća dašak slobodarskog duha koji je prije bio prisutan u cijelom gradu. Ipak, ne tvrdim da želim ondje provesti ostatak života.

Na koje vas ljude i događaje asocira šuma? Zašto vam je privlačna?

Ideja o završavanju slike pomalo je mistificirana. Njemački umjetnik Gerhard Richter u jednom je dokumentarcu o sebi rekao da je slika gotova onda kada je lijepa. To mi se jako svidjelo, pogotovo s obzirom na to da se na umjetničkoj sceni riječ “ljepota” gotovo više i ne smije koristiti. Otad se i ja vodim tom idejom: slika mora biti lijepa. Osim toga, kada napusti atelje, ona počinje svoj autonomni život i u tom je trenutku za mene definitivno završena. Mogao bih reći da tada nastupa osjećaj olakšanja. Ali puno je slika kojima se divimo po muzejima slaveći njihove autore i ne znajući da su stoljećima drugi ljudi nešto mijenjali ili dodavali, ne mislim pritom samo na restauratore, tako da nikada ne znate kada je ona stvarno gotova.

Na narodnooslobodilačku borbu i partizane, Ivicu i Maricu, Crvenkapicu. Na bijeg od kuće. Na gledanje, osluškivanje, mirisanje.

Na samoću. Šuma je prostor bez dubine i preglednosti. Ona za nas – iako smo je gotovo svagdje pripitomili – ima duboko mitsko značenje. Lijepa je, ali i opasno neizvjesna. Odrastao sam na rubu šume, na Pantovčaku, i tamo su nastali moji prvi crtački pokušaji.

Devedesetih sam godina neko vrijeme dosta intenzivno slikao šumske prizore upravo zbog odsutnosti dubine i zagušenosti, jer sam tako osjećao to vrijeme. Sada se ponovno pojavila na mojim slikama jer sam želio neku banalnu situaciju izleta urbanih ljudi u prirodu prikazati u višeznačnom kontekstu.

Zašto vas Berlin noću osobito inspirira?

Koga puštate u svoj atelje dok radite?

Zato što sam danju uglavnom u ateljeu. Šalim se. Inspirirali su me noć i svjetla grada koja se odražavaju razlijevajući se na mokrom

Dok slikam, uglavnom ne puštam nikoga, no ako radim s modelima, naravno da su i oni sa mnom. Navečer je svatko dobrodošao ako ne

'I CAN ONLY EXPERIENCE A REAL WORK OF ART IN REAL LIFE' THE COVER OF THIS ISSUE OF THE ADRIA LUXURY SOCIETY M A G A Z I N E I S F E A T U R E D B Y T H E P A I N T I N G 'A N N U N C I A T I O N '

BY T H E P R O M I N E N T C R O AT I A N A R T I ST L O V R O A R T U KO V I Ć . W E TA L K E D TO H I M A B O U T I N S P I R AT I O N , W O R K A N D B E A U T Y A S A N I N T E G R A L PA R T O F T H E A P P E A L O F H I S W O R KS

F

rom the mid-1980s, since he has been exhibiting his works in solo and group exhibitions, his paintings - oil on canvas, plywood and MDF board, and charcoal drawings on paper - have been seen by art audiences in Alexandria, Ankara, Vienna, Berlin, Budapest, Krakow, Lisbon, Munich, Moscow, Paris, Prague, Sarajevo and Skopje, as well as Croatia. Lovro Artuković, a native of Zagreb who has been living in Berlin since 2003, entitled his last collection of 43 works ‘Deceleration’. The exhibition has attracted many visitors to Modern Gallery in Zagreb - the National Museum of Modern Art, and as of the beginning of December the same works will be exhibited at the Art Gallery in Dubrovnik.

When they reach life maturity, many artists start painting very quickly and become more productive: what was the trigger that made you choose the rhythm of deceleration?

I think that Louise Bourgeois said she could only truly dedicate herself to art when she got rid of husbands, children, lovers, etc. I hope I did not misquote it. At some point, purely biologically, it does no longer make sense or there is no longer a need to do things which used to take up a lot of time and concentration. If this extra time is used for work, without distractions and with the same passion that you used to live, then miracles can happen. However, I decided not to use the time I got for hyper-production but on the contrary, to spite this time of superficiality and fast consumption, I am trying to make something of quality by my own standards.

Something which will require both me and the observer to slow down, to pause, and really dedicate their time to the painting.

What is the connection between productivity and work discipline when it comes to you?

I am quite unproductive. I work on paintings slowly and for a long time. I am not particularly disciplined; I just have the need to work, but I do not put that in any time frame. Besides, I believe that I work even when I am not working, but then I “recharge my batteries” with something that might one day be reflected in the paintings. So, we could say that I work even when I sleep.

Which detail is the most demanding for you to paint and why?

All the details in the picture are equally important to me. I paint them with the same attention, more or less, and therefore they are all equally demanding. When I get tired of working on a painting, I sometimes paint over it or leave something half-finished, but if the painting stays with me, I go back to it again and then with new energy and new experience I continue to work on it.

What kind of atmosphere do you wish to achieve with charcoal, and what kind with oil on canvas?

Charcoal gives me the ability to fully concentrate on the motif since I do not have to mix paints. Working with paints is more demanding, because paints are actually alive. I have to take care of their strong presence. I would not say that then the motif is less important- it is certainly not the case in my paintings. I do not do abstract works, but lately I have been trying to give paints more space to breathe freely.

Does it frustrate you when you work on some paintings for more than two years?

Not at all. I think it was crucial for many of my paintings that I returned to them after a long period of time. It seems to me that some paintings just do not want me to work on them anymore, that I do not deserve it until I master some new levels and then be able to continue.

What does that magical feeling of satisfaction and relief feel like when the painting is finished?

The completion of a painting is a bit mystified. German artist Gerhard Richter said in a documentary about himself that the painting is finished when it is beautiful. I really liked that, especially at a time when the word “beauty” is almost no longer allowed on the art scene. Since then, it has been a criterion for me as well: the painting must be beautiful. Besides, by leaving the studio the painting begins its autonomous life and at that point for me it is definitely finished. Let’s say that some sense of relief ensues then. But there are a lot of paintings that we admire in museums praising their authors and not knowing that for centuries some others have

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‘NJEMAČKI UMJETNIK GERHARD RICHTER U JEDNOM DOKUMENTARCU O SEBI REKAO JE DA JE SLIKA GOTOVA ONDA KADA JE LIJEPA. TO MI SE JAKO SVIDJELO, POGOTOVO S OBZIROM NA TO DA SE NA UMJETNIČKOJ SCENI RIJEČ „LJEPOTA” GOTOVO VIŠE I NE SMIJE KORISTITI’ GERMAN ARTIST GERHARD RICHTER SAID IN A DOCUMENTARY ABOUT HIMSELF THAT THE PAINTING IS FINISHED WHEN IT IS BEAUTIFUL. I REALLY LIKED THAT, ESPECIALLY AT A TIME WHEN THE WORD “BEAUTY” IS ALMOST NO LONGER ALLOWED ON THE ART SCENE

slikam, ali ako se najavi netko tko želi vidjeti što radim ili netko od prijatelja poželi sa mnom nešto podijeliti, rado ću ih primiti.

Kako procjenjujete vrijednost slike i određujete cijenu senzibilnosti?

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Cijene svojih slika određujem sam. Procjenjujem koliko meni određena slika vrijedi i koliko mislim da će vrijediti u mome opusu. Nisu presudni ni njezina veličina ni vrijeme utrošeno u rad, iako je sve to važno. Jednostavno osjetim njezinu vrijednost te za nju želim adekvatnu “odštetu”. Moje su cijene možda malo visoke za hrvatski standard i sigurno su preniske za njemačko tržište, no pokušavam se snaći u tom svojem podvojenom položaju hrvatskog slikara u Berlinu.

Premda i dalje dosta svojih djela prodajem u Hrvatskoj, troškove života nadoknađujem po sve višim berlinskim cijenama. Nemam galeriju koja bi se brinula o mome tržišnom plasmanu pa ne mogu reći je li moja procjena vrijednosti tržišno opravdana, ali cijena senzibilnosti otprilike jest.

Treba li umjetnik imati sklonost marketingu, biti poduzetnik, kako bi mogao živjeti od svojih djela?

Marketing i poduzetnik nisu izrazi kojima bih se poslužio, iako možda mislimo na isto. Smatram da umjetnik mora imati karizmu, sposobnost da snagom svog uvjerenja u vlastitu djelatnost može privući i uvući druge ljude da na njegova djela gledaju jednako kao on ili da barem shvate kako su ona važna. Mislim da se to ne može naučiti na studiju ili treningu. Nema pravila, svaki karizmatičan umjetnik to postiže na svoj način. Iako za života nije prodao nijednu sliku, Van Gogh je svojim gorućim uvjerenjem uspio svog brata navesti da ga uzdržava do smrti. Naravno, mnogi su umjetnici uspješni poduzetnici, ali oni uglavnom nisu moji idoli.

Kako doživljavate mogućnost virtualnog razgledanja izložbi tijekom pandemije prouzročene bolešću COVID-19. Koje ste takve izložbe posjetili?

Osjećam veliku odbojnost prema tome. Nisam posjetio nijednu takvu izložbu jer smatram da je virtualno prikazivanje zaseban medij i on me ne zanima. Zanima me stvarno umjetničko djelo, a njega mogu doživjeti samo u realnosti. Vjerojatno sam staromodan, ali i nogomet bez publike izgleda pomalo besmisleno.

Kako na međunarodnoj sceni moderne umjetnosti ekonomska kriza utječe na trgovanje slikama?

Ne znam.

Nedostaje li vam pedagoški rad sa studentima i učenicima? Kako biste opisali svoju filozofiju podučavanja mladih umjetnika?

Nisam se smatrao pedagogom dok sam sredinom osamdesetih godina predavao u Školi primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna te poslije kao docent na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu. Previše sam sebično fokusiran na svoj rad. Mislim da jedino vlastitim primjerom mogu dati nekakav poticaj mladima jer umjetnost se ne uči, svatko se razvija i uči sam, to ili imate ili nemate u sebi. Naučena umjetnost je kanon, a ja se nikada nisam želio uklopiti. Ipak, i kod mene se mogu vidjeti različiti utjecaji – od mojih profesora do ljudi s kojima sam se družio – uzora koji su me inspirirali. To je neizbježno. Ali ne stojite u mjestu, razvijate se, pratite život. Što je za vas najveći luksuz?

Živjeti ovako kako živim, a da svakog prvog dana u mjesecu imam čime platiti račune.

added something to them. And I do not mean just the art restorers, so you never know when it is really finished.

Because I am mostly in the studio during the day. I am just kidding.

Berlin was not my inspiration, but the night and the city lights at night dispersing on the wet asphalt. This is what I have always wanted to paint and it coincided that I only succeeded to do it now in Berlin.

worth in my entire work. Neither the size nor the time spent on the work is decisive, although that is also important. I just feel that this is exactly that painting and then I want adequate compensation for it. My prices may be a little high for Croatia and definitely too low for Germany, but I try to find balance as a Croatian painter in Berlin.

Simply put, although I still sell a lot in Croatia, I pay my living expenses at ever higher Berlin prices. I do not have a gallery to take care of my market placement, so I cannot say if my price estimate is market-justified, but when it comes to sensibility I think it is.

Which places in Berlin most impressively portray the spirit of the city for you and why?

Should an artist have inclination towards marketing and be also an entrepreneur in order to make a living from his works?

In Berlin, people mostly live in their “Kiez” (neighbourhood), so they cannot talk about the city in general. Spatially, the city is very large, and it is structured in a way that each neighbourhood has mostly everything you need. My radius of movement is a kilometre and a half around my studio and I rarely go to another neighbourhood. My studio has been on the border of Kreuzberg and Neukölln for twelve years, near the notorious Hermannplatz. There is a concentrated mixture of everything; different nations, races, hipsters, freaks of all kinds, elderly hippies, drug dealers, junkies, homeless, unemployed, workers, pensioners, tourists and a lot of young people eager to have fun. Sometimes it is irritating and tiring, noisy and aggressive, but on the other hand, when you end up somewhere “quiet”, you feel like you have fallen into some hole. In recent years, everything from the refugee crisis, lack of housing to crime has been reflected here the most. But it is vital and still has a touch of that “libertarian” thing that used to outline the spirit of the city.

But I am not saying I want to spend the rest of my life here.

Marketer, entrepreneur, these are not the terms I would use. While we may be talking about the same thing, I think an artist must have charisma, the ability to use the power of his belief in his own work to attract and entice other people to look at it the same way he does. Or at least to accept how important his work is. I do not think it can be learned during studies or any kind of training. There are no rules, every charismatic artist achieves this in his own specific way. Even Van Gogh, although he did not sell a single painting during his lifetime, managed to persuade his brother, with his burning conviction, to support him until his death. Of course, there are also a lot of successful entrepreneur artists, but they are mostly not my idols.

Why does Berlin at night give you special inspiration?

What people and events do you associate with the forest; why does it attract you?

The National Liberation War and the Partisans. Hansel and Gretel and Little Red Riding Hood. Running away from home. Watching, listening, smelling. Being alone with oneself. The forest is a space without depth and clarity, for us – even though we have more or less domesticated it almost everywhere - it has a deep mythical meaning. Of something beautiful, but also dangerously uncertain.

I grew up near the forest, on Pantovčak in Zagreb, and my first drawing attempts were in the forest. In the 1990s, I painted forest scenes quite intensely for some time precisely because of that lack of depth and its density, because that is how I felt at the time. Now it has reappeared in my paintings because I liked the idea of putting some banal situation of urban people’s trips into nature into a multifaceted context.

Who do you let into your studio while you work?

While painting mostly no one, while working with models, them, of course, and in the evening, everyone is welcome. If I am not painting. Of course, if someone says that they want to see what I am doing or one of my friends wants to share something with me – I will be happy to welcome them.

How to estimate the value of an artist’s painting and determine the price of sensibility?

I determine the prices of my paintings by some feeling of how much a certain painting is worth to me and how much I think it will be

What do you think of the possibility of seeing virtual exhibitions during the pandemic period? Which of them have you visited that way?

I feel big aversion towards that and I have not visited any for the simple reason - I feel that virtual display is a medium unto itself, and I have no interest for it at all. I am interested in a real work of art and I can only experience it in real life. I am probably old-fashioned, but even football without an audience at the time of the pandemic seems a bit pointless.

How does the recession affect the trade of paintings on the international modern art scene?

I have no idea.

Do you miss working with students and pupils and how would you describe your philosophy of teaching young artists?

I did not really see myself as a pedagogue while teaching in the mid-1980s at the School of Applied Arts and Design and later as an assistant professor at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb. I am too selfishly focused on my work. I think that only by my own example can I give some encouragement to young people because art is not learned, everyone develops and learns on their own, and this is something you other have or do not have in you. Learned art is a canon, and I have always tried to get away from fitting into something. However, not to be completely overbearing, different influences can also be noticed in my works, from my professors to the people I hung out with, role models who inspired me. That is inevitable. But you do not stand still, you evolve, you live life.

What is the biggest luxury for you?

Living the way I do, and having the money to pay the bills at the end of the month.

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BUSINESS • PEOPLE • EXPERIENCE

navještenje BROJ 2

A NNUNCIATION BY LOVRO A RTUKOVIĆ

• ISSUE NO.2

CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES IN 2021 • BUSINESS STRATEGIES • PREMIUM EXPERIENCE

| Zlatne nijanse “Navještenja”, ulja na platnu, i Lovro Artuković u Modernoj galeriji u Zagrebu na otvorenju svoje izložbe | Oil on canvas ‘Annunciation’ and Lovro Artuković in Zagreb Modern Gallery at the opening of his exhibition

‘MISLIM DA UMJETNIK MORA IMATI KARIZMU, SPOSOBNOST DA SNAGOM SVOG UVJERENJA U VLASTITU DJELATNOST PRIVUČE I UVUČE DRUGE LJUDE DA NA NJEGOVA DJELA GLEDAJU JEDNAKO KAO ON. ILI BAREM DA SHVATE KAKO JE NJEGOVO DJELO VAŽNO’ I THINK AN ARTIST MUST HAVE CHARISMA, THE ABILITY TO USE THE POWER OF HIS BELIEF IN HIS OWN WORK TO ATTRACT AND ENTICE OTHER PEOPLE TO LOOK AT IT THE SAME WAY HE DOES. OR AT LEAST TO ACCEPT HOW IMPORTANT HIS WORK IS

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Vaše snove kujemo u vječnost.

Nakit s potpisom Malalan ima svoj šarm koji mnogi povezuju s bogatom obiteljskom tradicijom. Generacije, koje su desetljećima ugrađivale snove u komade nakita, usavršile su se u bezvremenskom isprepletanju starih vještina, suptilnosti trenutka sadašnjosti i domišljatosti zakritom velom šarene budućnosti. Naši majstori zlatari kuju vaše snove u vječnost sa skulpturama kojima započinje tradicija obiteljskog nakita ili obogaćivanjem kutije nakita koja godinama prelazi s naraštaja na naraštaj.

Augusta Cesarca 6–8, Zagreb

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