zhuó Magazine-MFA Thesis Deliverable

A magazine all is about sustainable fashion.

Why We Say Sustainable Fashion?

Sustainable Fashion And Chinese Youths

VOLUME. 01

•着

Buy Less, Wear Longer

Start Changing From Now On

There is a need for more Chinese girls to believe that sustainable clothing deserves to be purchased.

VOLUME. 01 WHY WE KEEP SUSTAINABILITY

SEPTEMBER 2024

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

September 2024

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WHY WE SAY SUSTAINABLE FASHION? What’s wrong with the fashion industry?

Sustainable fashion and fast fashion

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FASHION AND CHINESE YOUTHS Status of sustainable fashion in China

The consumption decisions of China’s Gen Z?

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BUY LESS, WEAR LONGER

It’s really necessary to buy so many clothes?

How to be more sustainably responsible?

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START CHANGING FROM NOW ON Tips for sorting out old clothes

WHY WE SAY

SUSTAINABLE FASHION? In a world dominated by fast fashion, sustainable fashion is more than a trend—it's a movement. It's about mindful production, fair labor, and lasting quality, not just eco-friendly fabrics. This chapter uncovers why sustainable fashion matters, from ethical sourcing to reducing waste, and explores how the industry can evolve for the better.

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—Elizabeth Cline Author of "Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion"

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Fast fashion is not free. Someone, somewhere is paying for it.

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Over the past 20 years, dropping garment prices have led to a surge in clothing consumption, with people now owning five times more clothes than previous generations. While it seemed bene ficial, this trend is driven by reduced production costs, resulting in harmful impacts on our health, the environment, and the lives of garment workers.

Fast Fashion, The Monster In Our Closets The term ‘fast fashion’ has become more prominent in conversations surrounding fashion, sustainability, and environmental consciousness. The term refers to ‘cheaply produced and priced garments that copy the latest catwalk styles and get pumped quickly through stores in order to maximise on current trends’.

The fast fashion model is so-called because it involves the rapid design, production, distribution, and marketing of clothing, which means that retailers are able to pull large quantities of greater product variety and allow consumers to get more fashion and product differentiation at a low price.

The term was first used at the beginning of the 1990s, when when Zara landed in New York. “Fast fashion” was coined by The New York Times to describe Zara’s mission to take only 15 days for a garment to go from the design stage to being sold in stores.

The biggest players in the fast fashion world include Zara, UNIQLO, Forever 21 and H&M.

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One of the fast fashion industry in West Java, Indonesia

Energy The production of making plastic fibres into textiles is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of petroleum and releases volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride. Additionally, cotton, which is in a large amount of fast fashion products, is also not environmentally friendly to manufacture. Pesticides deemed necessary for the growth of cotton presents health risks to farmers.

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Microplastics Furthermore, brands use synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon and acrylic which take hundreds of years to biodegrade. A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation microplastics — tiny pieces of non-biodegradable plastic — in the ocean come from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester.

The production of leather requires large amounts of feed, land, water and fossil fuels to raise livestock, while the tanning process is among the most toxic in all of the fashion supply chain because the chemicals used to tan leather- including mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives and various oils and dyes is not biodegradable and contaminates water sources.

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The Dark Side of Fast Fashion Water The environmental impact of fast fashion comprises the depletion of non-renewable sources, emission of greenhouse gases and the use of massive amounts of water and energy. The fashion industry is the second largest consumer industry of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2 000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. Business Insider also cautions that textile dyeing is the world’s second-largest polluter of water, since the water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams or rivers.

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The Social Impacts of Fast Fashion Fast fashion does not only have a huge environmental impact. In fact, the industry also poses societal problems, especially in developing economies. According to non-profit Remake, 80% of apparel is made by young women between the ages of 18 and 24. A 2018 US Department of Labor report found evidence of forced and child labour in the fashion industry in Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, Philippines, Turkey, Vietnam and others.

Rapid production means that sales and profits supersede human welfare.

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In 2013, an eight-floor factory building that housed several garment factories collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh, killing 1,134 workers and injuring more than 2,500. In her project An Analysis of the Fast Fashion Industry, Annie Radner Linden suggests that ‘the garment industry has always been a low-capital and labour intensive industry’.

According to The True Cost, one in six people work in some part of the global fashion industry, making it the most labour-dependent industry. These developing nations also rarely follow environmental regulations; China, for example, is a major producer of fast fashion but is notorious for land degradation and air and water pollution.

In her book No Logo, Naomi Klein argues that developing nations are viable for garment industries due to ‘cheap labour, vast tax breaks, and lenient laws and regulations’.

Written by Rashmila Maiti

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Sustainable fashion also promotes the responsible distribution and consumption of fashion items.

Sustainable fashion and fast fashion

Sustainable fashion has moved beyond being a trend—it's now essential for the industry. According to a 2022 Statista survey, 35% of U.S. consumers are willing to pay more for eco-friendly, sustainably produced clothing. This shows that customers are playing an active role in reducing fashion's environmental impact. As a result, brands must evolve to meet these expectations. For professionals entering the industry, it's crucial to expand their knowledge of sustainability in fashion to help guide brands through this important shift in how business is conducted.

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Photo by sustainable brand Avenir

Fast Fashion vs. Sustainable Fashion Fast fashion is a method of producing inexpensive clothing at a rapid pace to respond

to the latest fashion trends. With shopping evolving into a form of entertainment in the age of fast fashion, customers are contributing to what sustainability experts refer to as a throwaway culture. This means customers simply discard products once they are deemed useless rather than recycling or donating them.

As a result, these disposable items add a huge burden to the environment.

Sustainable fashion also promotes the responsible distribution and consumption of fashion items. This means ensuring that the supply chain is ethical and that workers are paid fair wages and work under safe and humane conditions. Green fashion also emphasises reducing overconsumption and creating durable, long-lasting clothing items.

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One of the primary focuses of eco fashion is on the materials used in production. Sustainable fashion emphasizes using natural and organic materials, such as wool, linen, and cotton, grown and harvested without harmful pesticides and chemicals. These materials are biodegradable and do not contribute to the buildup of waste in landfills.

Another essential aspect of sustainable fashion is the production process. Organic fashion emphasizes responsible production, which includes minimizing waste, reducing energy consumption, and using renewable energy sources. This includes choosing manufacturing processes that are less harmful to the environment, such as using natural dyes instead of toxic chemicals.

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What Is Sustainable Fashion?

Sustainable fashion refers to the concept of creating fashion items in a way that reduces the environmental impact and promotes social responsibility throughout the entire production process. It aims to create fashion items that are environmentally friendly, socially responsible, and economically viable.

To resolve the throwaway culture and fast fashion crisis, the concept of sustainability in fashion is brought to the spotlight. Sustainable fashion involves apparel, footwear, and accessories that are produced, distributed, and utilized as sustainably as possible while taking into account socio-economic and environmental concerns.

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Photo by sustainable brand Avenir

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SUSTAINABLE

FASHION AND

YOUTH

CHINESE

In contrast to fast fashion, sustainable fashion emphasizes low-emissions clothing products that are built to last. As China seeks to radically reduce its greenhouse gas emissions, sustainable fashion has the potential to transform the country’s fashion and apparel industry—but requires long-term investments to drive cultural change among consumers.

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CHAPTER. 02 S U S TA I N A B L E FA S I O N A N D C H I N E S E YO U T H

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—Ma Jun, Chinese Environmentalist

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Environmental protection is not someone else's job, it's our responsibility. And in fashion, the choices we make ripple globally.

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“Clothes aren’t going to change the world.

The women who wear them will.”

—Anne Klein 22

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Status of sustainable fashion in China

A Niche But Emerging Trend In China China is an enormous market for fashion and apparel. According to government figures, enterprises above a designated scale (report annual revenue of over RMB 20 million from main business) produced 23.54 billion garments in 2021, an 8.4 percent increase over the previous year, and reached RMB 997.46 billion (US$138.87 billion) in sales, a 14.2 percent increase. The market research firm Askci Research projected China’s overall garment market to grow to RMB 1.45 trillion (US$201.87 billion) in 2022.

There is a pressing need for greater sustainability in China’s fashion and apparel industry. Currently, the vast majority of apparel in China’s fashion and apparel industry.

Currently, the vast majority of apparel in China is not recycled after use, whether through the secondhand market or re-use of materials. A han one percent of them are reused or recycled.

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The Chinese government is taking steps to reduce waste and pollution in the country, while promoting green business practices across industries. Most notably, the Chinese government pledged to hit peak carbon emissions before 2030 and become carbon neutral before 2060. Given this pledge, greater sustainability in the fashion and apparel industry may soon become the norm rather than an exception.

While the sustainable fashion industry makes up only a small portion of the fashion and apparel industry overall, numerous indicators suggest there is growing market potential. According to a survey conducted by the market research firm Daxue Consulting, 77 percent of surveyed Chinese consumers are willing to pay a premium of 5-20 percent for sustainable fashion products, indicating growing awareness of the importance of sustainability.

Indeed, China’s most prominent sustainable fashion brands, such as Icicle, Klee Klee, Krop, and Ziran, largely cater to a higher-end mar-

Although sustainable fashion is currently a high-end market in China, there is potential for it to go mainstream, as Chinese consumers display some underlying behaviors that support sustainable fashion.

While not all sustainable fashion products are made from recycled materials, such an attitude reflects a product perception barrier that sustainable fashion brands in China must overcome.

According to a survey by PwC, 74 percent of Chinese consumers tend to choose brands with traceable sources and a transparent origin, compared to 56 percent globally.

Interest in transparency among Chinese consumers stems in part from experience with fake and sometimes hazardous products, which were once commonplace in the Chinese market.

However, young Chinese consumers appear to be more interested in sustainable fashion than previous generations. A report by the firm Research And Markets finds that sustainable fashion is still a new concept for Chinese consumers, but that awareness is rapidly growing among young, urban consumers.

Young People Leading Growth In China, the idea that someone would pay a premium for clothes made from recycled materials is not mainstream. During Chi-

CHAPTER. 02 S U S TA I N A B L E FA S I O N A N D C H I N E S E YO U T H

na’s economic boom over the last several decades, consumers stressed the value of newness, rather than recycled or vintage.

Many people also hold a stigma that secondhand clothing is unhygienic.

SEPTEMBER 2024

ket. Other companies, like Bastine, focus on sustainable textile production. Some foreign brands specializing in sustainable fashion have entered the Chinese market, such as Everlane and Allbirds, to mixed success.

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The younger generation understands the impact of their choic they want fashion that respects the environment.

industry. Currently, the vast majority of apparel in China’s fashion and apparel industry.

Currently, the vast majority of apparel in China is not recycled after use, whether through the secondhand market or re-use of materials. A han one percent of them are reused or recycled.

The Chinese government is taking steps to reduce waste and pollution in the country, while promoting green business practices across industries. Most notably, the Chinese government pledged to hit peak carbon emissions before 2030 and become carbon neutral before 2060. Given this pledge, greater sustainability in the fashion and apparel industry may soon become the norm rather than an exception.

While the sustainable fashion industry makes up only a small portion of the fashion and apparel industry overall, numerous indicators suggest there is growing market potential.

According to a survey conducted by the market research firm Daxue Consulting, 77% of surveyed Chinese consumers are willing to pay a premium of 5-20 percent for sustainable fashion products, indicating growing awareness of the importance of sustainability.

Indeed, China’s most prominent sustainable fashion brands, such as Icicle, Klee Klee, Krop, and Ziran, largely cater to a higher-end 26

market. Other companies, like Bastine, focus on sustainable textile production. Some foreign brands specializing in sustainable fashion have entered the Chinese market, such as Everlane and Allbirds, to mixed success.

Although sustainable fashion is currently a high-end market in China, there is potential for it to go mainstream, as Chinese consumers display some underlying behaviors that support sustainable fashion.

According to a survey by PwC, 74 percent of Chinese consumers tend to choose brands with traceable sources and a transparent origin, compared to 56 percent globally. Interest in transparency among Chinese consumers stems in part from experience with fake and sometimes hazardous products, which were once commonplace in the Chinese market.

SEPTEMBER 2024

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CHAPTER. 02 SUSTAINABLE FASION AND CHINESE YOUTH

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What drives the consumption decisions of China’s Gen Z?

Marketers often find Gen Z confusing because their consumption behavior is contradictory—they're impulsive yet careful, self-centered yet peer-driven, and love both in-person shopping and online convenience. How can we define a generation with such varied habits?

SEPTEMBER 2024 CHAPTER. 02 Sustainable fashion and Chinese youth

Gen Z, Immune To Traditional Advertising, Arefer Advice From KOLs Many Gen Z consumers describe being “immune” to traditional advertising, having been “trained” to ignore it from a young age. This can make it difficult to catch their attention, as anything viewed as an advertisement might be seen as clinical and untrustworthy.

Instead, Gen Z consumers prefer advice from KOLs and other user-generated content to make consumption decisions, as they find it to be more credible.

These creators build rapport with fans by sharing their lives with them and frequently interacting through online platforms. Understandably, the younger generation finds it easier to trust a sincere and relatable public figure than a faceless brand promoting their own product. This likely represents a major shift in how marketing will need to be carried out in the future, not only in China but globally. A McKinsey survey reported that 44% of Gen Z respondents globally regard online influencers as a top-three decision-making factor when shopping, much higher than that of Millennials or Generation X. We can only expect this proportion to increase as the KOLs and livestreaming continue to grow in popularity.

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Brands need both a physical and online presence to accommodate Gen Z’s omni-shopping habit.

Generation Z have been shaped by the rise of the digital age as they grew up. For the first time, a whole generation’s childhoods were developed around digital products, one of the greatest influencing factors

While survey data shows that 89% of Chinese Gen Z prefer online shopping (with 57% shopping online four to ten times each month), China’s Gen Z are experts at omni-shopping, that is, visiting stores to see physical products and then ordering them online or vice versa. Survey results report that 62% of China’s Gen Z will use both physical and online store experiences in the process of purchasing clothes. Compared to other countries surveyed, this is a much greater proportion.

Gen Z consumers want an experience when they shop, so brands should accommodate this by having multiple immersive sales channels. Even for brands with a strong physical presence, targeting Gen Z means it is still important to have functioning, accessible e-commerce to supplement, and vice versa.

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Gen Z consumers want products that resonate with their identities and interests.

When targeting these consumers, especially in China, a narrower scope may prove to be beneficial; it may no longer be realistic to appeal to the masses.

on Gen Z’s consumption habits. They are natives to the internet and spend time in the digital world, living, studying, working, and consuming in the online society.

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Gen Z Want Personalized Products That Cater To Their Specific Interests Stemming from how ingrained internet culture is in their lives, Gen Z often group themselves into different circles or subcultures based on their interests and aesthetics. For brands wanting to appeal to the younger generations, it may be worth considering how specific, selected subcultures can be targeted. In fact, for many brands, having a large share of one of these consumer groups can often be preferred over being a generalist in an industry, especially when we are interested in the attention of Gen Z consumers. Expansion within these groups is straight-forward and, when spread throughout these groups and driven by online social mechanisms, can see almost viral word-ofmouth growth.

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BUY LESS,

LONGER

WEAR

"Buy Less, Wear Longer" promotes mindful fashion consumption, encouraging consumers to prioritize quality over quantity. This concept emphasizes investing in durable, timeless pieces that last, reducing the environmental impact of overconsumption and fast fashion. It’s about choosing well-made, sustainable clothing that can be worn for years, not just a season.

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C CH HA AP PT TE ER R .. 0 03 3 BUY LESS, WEAR LONGER

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—Vivienne Westwood , Fashion Designer

CHAPTER. 03 BUY LESS, WEAR LONGER

Buy less, choose well, make it last.

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It’s really necessary to buy such many clothes?

Shanghai urban residents spend more than 2000 yuan on clothes each year. Assuming that women’s clothing consumption is three times that of men’s, we estimate that a Shanghai girl’s annual expenses are around 50 yuan, which equal to the expense of 20 pieces of clothing.

No matter it’s luxury goods or fast fashion, the destination for most of our unwanted clothes is the garbage dump. Garment fabrics are complex and have many accessories, making it difficult to recycle them as raw materials for recycled chemical fibers.

Eventually, most clothes will be burned or landfilled, causing secondary air, land and water pollution.

The fashion industry is a major source of industrial pollution in the world only second to the energy industry.

No matter how many clothes are in our closet, we always tend to wear the newest one. It is said that the trend of daily new arrivals brought by fast fashion leads consumers to get tired of a piece of cloth after just 7 weeks. Then, it will remain unused in the closet for several years until it is completely discarded.

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Plant-based and semi-synthetic fibers with low environmental impact include: linen, hemp, organic cotton, ramie, natural rubber, Tencel, sustainable viscose.

Don’t be afraid to ask about the brand you’re purchasing from. They should have answers to any questions you may have and hopefully they can help you make an informed decision.

It is human nature to abandon the old and chase the new. Even if get paid for recycling, it’s difficult for people to have the motivation to jump up from the sofa and tidy up their wardrobe. The clothes will be left idle in the closet for several years, andevenfually, they will be packed and thrown away when the owner is busy with moving home.

The idea is to extend the life cycle of a gment and reduce your waste. This might mean investing in more timeless pieces made from higher quality materials to last more than one season, or if you tire of styles quickly, try switching up your outfits by borrowing or swapping clothes with friends . Alternatively, you can buy second-hand from fashion websites or local thrift stores.

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Synthetic and animal fibers that have a serious impact on the environment should be avoided: polyester, nylon, bamboo, leather, vegan leather, cashmere, cotton, wool and down. Fast fashion brands that claim their clothing is made from organic cotton may be using synthetic dyes. If they use natural dyes, they will state this on the product page or website. Don’t forget packaging — does the brand use minimal packaging? Do they use recyclable or biodegradable materials?

Maximize What's Already Made!

One of the best use of old clothes is to keep using them. However, currently less than 1% of clothing in China is being recycled.

SEPTEMBER 2024

Know What You Are Buying Next time you do need to buy new clothing, pay attention to the materials and dyes shown on the label. Here are some things to remember:

Article by Dejavu Remake; OrgHive Community

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START CHANGING FROM

ON

NOW

Everyone wants a wardrobe that’s neat and orderly, making it easy to see exactly what you’ve got and put outfits together with ease. Getting it organised will undoubtedly involve a clear out of clothes that no longer fit or you no longer love.

We all have items we know should go but when it comes to emotional attachment (and pretty clothes!) decluttering is easier said than done.

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—Vivienne Westwood , Fashion Designer

CHAPTER. 03 BUY LESS, WEAR LONGER

Buy less, choose well, make it last.

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10 Tips for sorting out old clothes

If having a wardrobe declutter is one of those jobs you’ve been putting off, here’s how to tackle the task. We’ve compiled our top tips for getting the tidy wardrobe of your dreams.

01.

Schedule a time to declutter.

Decluttering your wardrobe can feel overwhelming, but scheduling time in your diary can help. A typical wardrobe takes about four hours to clear, but if you're short on time, break it into smaller sessions and tackle it in segments.

02.

Making things visible.

How often have you dug through your wardrobe, struggling to find something? Too often, right? Having too much makes daily dressing harder. Start by pulling everything out and sorting it into three piles: keep, sell, and donate. Only keep what you truly need or love. Get rid of anything hard to wear or maintain, and cut down on multiples—if you have six white T-shirts, toss any that are worn out or discolored.

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Put it all back in an organised way.

Organizing your wardrobe by category and color makes it easier to see what you have. Fashion editor Jo Atkinson suggests arranging from left to right: evening dresses, jackets, tops, blouses, trousers, skirts, and outerwear. Use non-slip hangers to keep clothes in place. Keep shoes visible and accessible by recycling shoeboxes or using a shoe rack like IKEA’s TJUSIG, so they don’t pile up.

04.

Work in categories.

Marie Kondo's KonMari method advises decluttering by category rather than randomly. This approach helps you see everything you own, making it easier to let go of excess. Apply this to your wardrobe by sorting coats first, then dresses, and so on. It's easier to part with items when you realize how many you have.

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Consider what really counts as sentimental.

We often keep clothes for sentimental reasons, but don’t let that become an excuse for clutter. Instead, think about giving these items a new life with someone else. Holding onto clothes that no longer fit can also bring negativity, so consider letting them go for a fresh start.

06.

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Mark your clothes.

Just like seasonal clothes, special occasion outfits can be stored separately. Ballgowns and other rarely worn items take up valuable space. Pack them with care using acid-free tissue paper to keep them in good condition, label the box clearly, and store it on a high shelf or above the wardrobe.

09.

Create a holiday box.

Rotate your wardrobe.

Since your summer and winter wardrobes aren’t worn at the same time, it makes sense to separate them. Store off-season clothes safely, much like your holiday items. Use vacuum storage bags, like SpaceSaver, to compress thicker items, saving space and protecting them from damp and moths.

10.

Protect your clothes.

A clutter-free wardrobe lets you better protect and cherish your clothes. After decluttering, clean the inside of your wardrobe with natural products and add moth protection, like cedar rings. Use skinny hangers to save space and avoid wire ones that can misshape clothes. To keep things organized, try a 'one in, one out' policy or regularly prune your wardrobe so everything you own truly deserves its place.

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“A signature style can turn into a style rut if we don’t update it,” says Annmarie O’Connor. She suggests doing quarterly wardrobe appraisals. Her trick? Start with hangers all facing the same way. Each time you wear something, turn the hanger the opposite direction. After a few weeks, you’ll see what’s been worn and what’s untouched, helping you decide what to keep or let go.

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Since we rarely wear summer items like strappy dresses and sandals, it’s best to store them separately. Create a holiday box for bikinis, sun hats, and summer clothes, making sure everything is washed first. Pack them in a sealed container, label it, and store it on a high shelf or in the attic. This saves wardrobe space and adds excitement when you bring the box down for your next trip!

Appraise your wardrobe.

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09.2024

VOLUME. 01

WHY WE KEEP SUSTAINABILITY Publisher Yiwei Li Editor Yiwei Li Images Credit Mina Magazine Unsplash Adobe Stock Behance

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empowers young Chinese consumers to make mindful fashion choices while embracing modern aesthetics.

Style With Purpose.