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, Friday, December 15, 2006
Restaurant review
Patrias brings taste of Spain to downtown Port Chester A
By Jananne Abel
lthough Patrias Restaurant opened in September 2005, I only discovered it by chance as what I would call a find about three months ago. It appeared in our list of Port Chester and Rye Brook restaurants under the Peruvian category, but little did I know that it actually features largely Spanish cuisine, something I knew little about. Nor did I know that this dining establishment is a step above many of the other more casual eateries serving South and Central American cuisine that dot Port Chester’s North and South Main streets. Always open to new taste sensations and food preparations, I find Patrias a welcome addition to the ever-growing and changing Port Chester restaurant picture. Yes, it does offer some Peruvian dishes to give it wider appeal, said chef and co-owner Mariano Aznar, but 80% of the items on the menu are Spanish. Since there are many other Peruvian restaurants in Port Chester and no others preparing Spanish food, Patrias indeed stands out from the crowd. Nonetheless, the name Patrias, which means “countries” in Spanish, reflects that the restaurant offers the cuisine of more than one country.
The bustling candlelit urban atmosphere makes you think you could be in New York City. However, although the décor exudes an upscale feel, prices are pretty reasonable and, as far as dress, almost anything goes. Chef Aznar, a Barcelona native who began his culinary journey as an apprentice at the Barcelona Princess Sophia Hotel and then attended the Culinary Arts School in Girona, came to the United States in 1990. He started as executive chef at Paradise Barcelona in Manhattan, five years later signed as sous chef at Solera Restaurant in Manhattan and then went on his own with a partner at Alcala
Patrias Restaurant is located at 35 ½ North Main St.
near the United Nations building, all the while preparing Spanish cuisine. It was his sister-in-law, Peruvian born Ivon Rodriguez, who had the desire to open her own business and found the location at 35 ½ North Main St. which had previously housed a Peruvian restaurant. When she decided to open Chef and co-owner Mariano Aznar chops fish a restaurant without any previous in the kitchen at Patrias Restaurant in Port Chester. experience, Aznar opted to give up his New York City commitment ish saffron rice with fresh seafood; features white and red selections Fideua de Mariscos ($21), tradi- from Peru and Spain and a few reds and join her in Port Chester. “It’s something I never tional saffron noodles with fresh from Argentina, some of which planned,” said the 40-year-old seafood; Paella de Arroz Negro are available by the glass. The Mamaroneck resident at his eatery ($21), black rice paella with sea- emphasis is on the reds to which this week. “I used to come here food in squid ink broth; and Paella two pages are devoted as opposed to have ceviche,” he said of Port de Carne ($20), saffron rice with to one for the whites. Prices range Chester. He and his wife didn’t go chunks of chicken, beef, pork loin from $25 to $75. On the weekends Rodrito any restaurant in particular guez’s sister Maggie acts as for what he called a largely hostess and waitress. “She’s Peruvian dish but instead tried very good with the customers,” them all. Aznar said. She’s pleasant and “Americans love ceviche,” knowledgeable and makes you he said, “so I have ceviche and feel at home. serve other plates from Peru to reach other people.” Menus: The specialties at Patrias are tapas and paellas, Aznar said Spanish, Peruvian without thinking twice. “Tapa” and specials means “cover” in Spanish, and While the takeout menu is tapas have developed into their pretty clear, I find the in-house own cuisine in the United States version a bit confusing, with where people order several the same dishes repeated in small Spanish dishes and make more than one spot. Besides them a meal. They’re akin to the tapas, there are a soup of appetizers. Patrias features the day and a few salads under seven cold tapas and another 10 hot ones on the menu in Table for six at the back of the the Spanish appetizer category. addition to another four of- restaurant where a large black Besides paella, four other Spanfered as weekly specials. So spoon and fork hang from a pretty ish main dishes figure on the menu, including a grilled New there are plenty to choose from. oak cabinet. York steak served with roasted The most popular: Gambas al Ajillo (sizzling shrimp in garlic, and chorizo. I can highly recom- peppers, French fries and chimiolive oil and parsley at $10) and mend the first two but haven’t yet churri sauce ($22) and Canelones Barcelonesa ($16), cannelloni Croquettas de Pollo (six chicken tried the others. To complement your meal, you pasta stuffed with chicken, pork croquettes made with the chef’s special recipe at $7). Of course can’t go wrong with the flavorful and veal in a creamy béchamel I’ve ordered the sizzling shrimp house-made sangria, available by sauce. On one visit, my party of two and can vouch for their taste and the glass ($7), half pitcher ($15) quality. Portions are large, so a or pitcher ($30). Besides soaking ordered the Pulpo ala Gallega couple can certainly share two or citrus fruit in red wine, there are ($12), thin slices of boiled octopus three tapas and call it a day or go a few tricks of the trade that give seasoned with pimenton (Spanthe sangria its extraordinary flavor: ish paprika made from sweet dry straight to dessert. As for the paella, Aznar pre- Triple Sec, brandy and a splash pepper smoked and ground) and olive oil over warm sliced potapares four different types: Paella de of Sprite. Besides sangria, the wine list Mariscos ($21), traditional SpanPlease turn to page 9R