Vancouver Magazine, May 2018 by NextHome

Can the Crew Behind Savio Volpe Save an Iconic Vancouver Restaurant? SPRING FASHION: ALL DENIM EVERYTHING & MUST HAVE STATEMENT BAGS BODY BUILDERS, U NITE // UBC’S SECR ET U NDERGROU ND TU N NEL NET WOR K // A BBA AT THE SY MPHON Y // & MOR E

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of the city’s best restaurants on one epic list. Let’s eat.

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VA N M AG .C O M

M AY 2 0 1 8 // VO LU M E 5 0 // N U M B E R 4

Go for Gold? Turn to page 28 to find out how newcomer St. Lawrence fared with our Restaurant Awards judges.

COVER PHOTO: CHRISTIN GILBERT; ST. L AWRENCE: LUIS VALDIZON.

City

Play

21 Reasons to Love Vancouver We’re forever finding thrills on the coaster.

89 Personal Space At home with former fashion designer Nicole Bridger.

92 Hot Take Divine denim to upgrade your style.

22 In Brief A queer film series goes mainstream, restaurants by the numbers and the best culture event to check out this month.

24 Modern Family Bodybuilders strut their (buff ) stuff.

FE ATURES

Restaurant Awards It’s here! Our annual celebration of the best restaurants in the city.

96 About Last Night Fred Lee’s social snaps.

98 City Informer Are there actually secret tunnels underneath UBC?

We go behind the scenes to see just how a new Italian joint comes together.

Red Sauce Diaries

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General Manager | Publisher Dee Dhaliwal Editorial Director Anicka Quin Executive Editor Stacey McLachlan Food Editor Neal McLennan Associate Art Director Natalie Gagnon Associate Editor Julia Dilworth Assistant Art Director Jenny Reed Online Editor Kaitlyn Funk Videographer Mark Philps Contributing Editors Frances Bula, Amanda Ross Editorial Interns Alyssa Hirose, Jessica Palacio, Allie Turner Art Intern Amanda Siegmann Editorial Email mail@vanmag.com Account Managers Judy Johnson, Theresa Tran Sales Coordinator Karina Platon Online Coordinator Theresa Tran Production Manager Lee Tidsbury Advertising Designer Swin Nung Chai Senior Marketing Strategist Kaitlyn Lush Sales Email karina.platon@vanmag.com Vancouver Office 3rd Floor, 2025 Willingdon Avenue Burnaby, B.C. V5C 0J3 604-877-7732 National Media Sales Representation, Mediative Senior Account Manager, National Sales Ian Lederer, 416-626-4258 ian.lederer@mediative.com U.S. Sales Representation, Media-Corps 1-866-744-9890, info@media-corps.com Yellow Pages Digital and Media Solutions Ltd. Vice-President & Chief Publishing Officer Caroline Andrews

East India Carpets D I S T I N C T I V E D E S I G N S S I N C E 19 4 8

VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published 10 times a year by 9778748 Canada Inc. Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material. Privacy Policy: On occasion, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened organizations whose product or service might interest you. If you prefer that we not share your name and address (postal and/or email), you can easily remove your name from our mailing lists by reaching us at any of the listed contact points. You can review our complete Privacy Policy at Vanmag .com. Indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index by Micromedia Ltd. and also in the Canadian Periodical Index. International standard serial no. ISSN 0380-9552. Canadian publications mail product sales agreement #40068973. Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing G.P. (LGM Graphics), 737 Moray St., Winnipeg, MB R3J 3S9. All reproduction requests must be made to: COPIBEC (paper reproductions) 800-717-2022, or CEDROM-SNi (electronic reproductions) 800-563-5665. Distributed by Coast to Coast Ltd.

1606 West 2nd at Fir Armoury District Vancouver Mon-Sat 10-5:30 604 736 5681 eastindiacarpets.com PHOTOGRAPHY: BARRY CALHOUN PHOTOGRAPHY ACCESSORIES: PROVIDE HOME

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ED NOTE

Everyone wants to know where to eat. So here we have it.

ON A GREAT bluebird day at Whistler this winter, I confirmed a long-held theory that people are more likely to be chatty on the chairlift when the weather is fine—and even more so when they find out I’m a local and can give them a little insight into Vancouver. Inevitably, on each ride up, the conversation turns to where they should eat in the city before they fly out. (Other memorable conversations have included, but are not limited to: why they remade Footloose, how my friend’s pale Irish skin was due to a run of albinism in that culture, and how I was definitely a terrible skier—the latter said to me by a five-year-old who had never actually seen me ski but really knew a good trash talk.) But the where-to-eat conversation always gives me pause, because how can I possibly give proper justice to our incredible restaurant scene in the few minutes we have on the Excalibur chair? It’s a momentous task our 14 Restaurant Awards judges have spent the last year tackling, investing hundreds of hours of dining in the city, only to invest hundreds more debating over Slack channels to determine who will make the long list in each of our 39 categories. Then, long list in hand and categories assigned, they’re back to it again, revisiting, rethinking and finally submitting their votes to our chartered accountants, Crowe MacKay. And then we await the final tallies—save for Restaurant of the Year, Best New Restaurant and Chef of the Year. To win those, you need to have won a Gold in another category—Best French, Best West Coast, Best Pizza, et cetera—so the judges get back together again for more heated discussions (that, thankfully, lack the trash-talking of a certain five-year-old I’ve met). And, at last, the crowns are bestowed to all the final winners—and you can turn to page 28 to discover who those winners are for this, the 29th Annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards. What you see in these pages is the result of the work of those judges and of our food editor, Neal McLennan, who translates their votes and comments into our mosttalked-about issue of the year. From the moment the short list is published online to the day the winners are announced at our awards ceremony (this year taking place on April 16) and in the pages of this magazine, it’s a topic of debate as personal as your favourite place to dine out. Did your own winners make the list? Head to our Facebook page to join the conversation. Meanwhile, for the record, on that recent fine day in Whistler I did shout “Bao Bei!” to one Texan just as we parted ways at the top of the lift. Happily, our judges this year agreed with my suggestion—it takes home Gold in the Best Chinatown category.

Coming Up Next Issue On the Eve of Legalization It’s almost here: the day even Grandma can pick up a spliff to ease her aching joints. Writer Chris Cannon assesses what the world will look like come legalization day in Vancouver.

Weekend Getaways There are but 14 weekends to maximize your summer fun, but we’ve got you covered. From a remote heli-biking adventure with Tyek Adventure Co. (see below) to wine tours, yoga retreats, music festivals and more, each of these getaways makes every moment count this summer.

On the Web Behind the Scenes Remember our exploding Champagne bottles from our Best Sparkling Wine challenge? Associate Art Director Natalie Gagnon kept the film rolling as we photographed. Head to vanmag.com to see how we made the magic happen.

Follow me on Instagram!

Anicka Quin EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

ANICK A . QUIN @VANMAG . COM

@ ANIQUA

PORTRAIT: EVA AN KHERA J; ST YLING BY LUISA RINO, MAKEUP BY MEL ANIE NEUFELD; CLOTHING COURTESY HOLT RENFREW, HOLTRENFREW.COM.

Winning Food

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VA N M AG .C O M/C I T Y

City

RE ASONS TO LOVE VANCOUVER

Reason #192 MARK FAVIELL

Because West Coast coasters do it best.

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE anyone would dare call Vancouver “No Fun City” when one of its biggest claims to fame is a roller coaster. Built in 1958, a time terrifyingly devoid of basic safety and technological standards, the plainly named Wooden Roller Coaster featured 2,840 feet of track made from Douglas fir boards—and it still stands on the Playland fairgrounds to this day, secure in its status as Canada’s oldest roller coaster, and as vertigo-inducing now as it was in its early years. (The association of American Coaster Enthusiasts had even specially designated it a landmark.) It may only go 72 kilometres an hour and top out at heights of 75 feet, but its rickety drops and hairpin turns are enough to attract half a million guests annually: proof that the thrills here in YVR are ageless. Playland opens May 5; pne.ca/playland

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City

IN BRIEF

THE E XPER T

Big Love, Big Screen

David Ng and Jen Sungshine created the Love Intersections short-film series to tell the stories of under-represented minorities in the local queer community. BY

Michael White

Scene and Heard Love Intersections founders Sungshine (left) and Ng in a still from one of their films.

Love Intersections, a collection of short films available online and screened at festivals around the world, grew out of something you experienced in 2014 as part of your work with Out in Schools: how some of the city’s evangelical Chinese community protested the Vancouver School Board’s efforts to update its antihomophobia policy, and how that protest was reported by the media.

Sungshine: I was sitting in school-board meetings, and my community was behind me with our rainbow placards, and sitting across from me were people who look like me, who could be my parents and grandparents. And the way the media was reporting on this controversy was racist, in that it painted the Chinese community as one, that they’re all superhomophobic. David and I were thinking afterward, What could we learn from this experience? And we realized the common denominator between us and the Chinese parents who were protesting was actually love. If there were a way to communicate

across all of the intersections of identity, it’s through love. Ng: The parents who were supporting the queer kids, they love their kids and wanted their kids to be safe. The parents of the opposition also love their kids and wanted them to be safe, but they perceived the issue [of transgender access to school washrooms] as a threat to their safety. So we wanted to capture that moment in the philosophy of Love Intersections. We found that the most honest way to do that was to share our stories. Q: Beyond the web, your films have been screened at festivals around the world as well as in B.C. schools. Ng: Probably the most well-received film we’ve made, Regalia: Pride in Two Spirits, is of my friend Duane, who’s two-spirit and has the Pride flag on his [First Nations] regalia. It’s a simple story of him coming out and talking about the importance of holding on to his culture. That film cost us $500. It’s been used for

Once it becomes not groundbreaking, that would be a good thing.” the Gender Studies program at UBC and as part of HIV prevention by Vancouver Coastal Health. It adds nuance to different types of curricula. Q: Last year, you won a Telus Storyhive grant to produce a six-episode series that’s being shown on Optik TV starting this spring. Does it feel like mainstream culture is catching up with your vision? Ng: The fact that it’s groundbreaking to show a film about Duane or me or Jen— once it becomes not groundbreaking, once it becomes normal, that would be a good thing. Q: You look forward to becoming obsolete? Sungshine: I can’t wait!

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 8

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T he Chef is Out

S P O TLIGHT

In the city of Vancouver there are…

Most cooks and chefs in B.C. leave the industry between the ages of 35 and 44.

4/10 restaurants in B.C. had a staff ing vacancy in 2016, and 73% said they were struggling to fill the spots.

food trucks

1,826

full-service restaurants

THE BRE AK DOWN

How’s Everything Tasting So Far?

Food servers take about 23,000 steps per day, according to a Jenny Craig work fitness study.

While the labour shortage keeps Help Wanted signs in restaurant windows across the city, we hash out the numbers for the people behind our plates.

Data from payment company Square puts Vancouverites at the top of the Canadian tipping scale, with an average gratuity of 16.47%.

$16.55 /hour

$25.63 /hour

1,443

takeout spots

Workers in B.C. restaurants and bars served $13 billion worth of food and drink last year. By comparison, the annual GDP of B.C.’s lumber industry is $12 billion.

In the years between 2015 and 2025,

32,398

jobs will have opened up in Lower Mainland restaurants.

B.C. cooks earn an average hourly wage of $16.55, while chefs (those with a supervisory role in the kitchen) earn an average of $25.63.

THE TICK E T

YERVANA: JAKOB AGER

Arrival from Sweden Plays the Music of ABBA When ABBA split in 1982, their passing didn’t arouse a great deal of public mourning. Much like the Bee Gees, the Swedish quartet had come to be viewed as a remnant of the previous decade, not suited to the brave new world of new wave and MTV. But then, gradually, ABBA became stronger in absentia than anyone could have imagined. Gestures of tribute such as the film Muriel’s Wedding and the play Mamma Mia! served to remind the masses that theirs was one of the most extraordinary catalogues in pop. (In 2010, the band sold more than 375 million units.) Perhaps the greatest testament to ABBA’s enduring popularity is that, in the absence of a reunion (the four members have turned down countless lucrative offers), tribute acts have become a major attraction. Of the lot, however, only doppelgänger Arrival from Sweden is officially sanctioned by the genuine article—and they also wear a reproduction wardrobe designed by the band’s same tailor from 40-odd years ago. “Dancing Queen,” “S.O.S.” and the rest of ABBA’s hits will be treated to original orchestral grandeur when Arrival from Sweden performs them alongside the VSO and conductor William Rowson. —Michael White

The Deets Date: May 2 Venue: Orpheum Theatre Price: $50–$75 vancouversymphony.ca

Out There A new app takes Vancouver visitors exploring. IF YOU WERE guiding visiting friends around Vancouver, would a horse-drawn carriage ride in Stanley Park be tops on your to-do list? Probably not—but as Jim McGovern discovered when he was reading up on Vancouver tourist destinations, it ranks pretty high. And that got him thinking, What if there were an app that could connect local insight with visiting outdoorsy types? “When I went to Italy I tried to hire someone to show us around, so I went to Trip Advisor,” says McGovern, who spent 34 years in the finance industry. “I realized that everything I was reading was just what other tourists were saying about what other tourists told them. There was no real platform for what the locals were doing.” He launched Yervana in February to offer just that. The app lets local experts post “adventures” that they have created for “explorers”: a snowshoe to Cypress Mountain’s hidden cabins, for example, will run you $50; a five-hour bike tour with coffee, snack and a beer at the end will cost $100. Yervana handles the bookings and insurance, and takes 25 percent of the fee. Locals decide when they’re available to take guests around, and, like most sharing economy-type models, users review the experiences online afterward so future explorers get a sense of what’s great and what’s less so. “We launched in the Sea to Sky corridor because it’s probably one of the greatest playgrounds in North America,” he says. “Yervana is a community of locals and that ‘real’ moment you get here.” —Anicka Quin

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City

2 “I got into bodybuilding because I was too short for basketball. It’s not so much the competing for me; it’s the training process and the education. There are a lot of myths about training and nutrition…80 percent of the stuff that’s out there is just slowing people down.”—Lou Noel, WNBF/ IPE/IDFA Pro category, online coach

M O D E R N FA M I LY

Pump It Up

While bodybuilders can look intimidating, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more upbeat, proteinshaker-half-full community. At the shows, everyone is thrown into close quarters for a weekend of spraytanning and onstage flexing, but for the rest of the season, training can be a rather solitary pursuit. So we tracked down a few of the city’s competitors and brought them together—where else?—at the gym.

Jenn Farrell Pooya Nabei

AS TOLD TO PHOTO BY

Group portrait taken at Gold’s Gym, Burnaby, March 16, 2018

1 “I used to come to the gym all the time for exercise classes and then just eat whatever I wanted, so my body wasn’t changing the way I wanted it to. I went from being a cardio bunny to a weightlifting junkie! Bodybuilding is not just about lifting; it’s about food and recovery and sleep; it’s really living a balanced lifestyle.” —Byron Basbas, LW Bodybuilding category, executive pastry chef

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 8

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Watch a behind-the-scenes video at vanmag.com

4 “The hardest parts are cold mornings, when the last thing in the world you want to do is do cardio. I can’t tell you how many mornings I’ve literally woken up while I’m on the treadmill.” —Marilyn Ciccone, Ciccone Physique/Figure Open category, actor

3 3 “The diet is challenging. I used to go out to eat a lot, and I was not a good cook! I felt bad for my partner, who also had to go through what I was going through. I had to learn to cook well at home, learn to read labels…when you’re paying a coach and have a deadline, you can’t really slack off.”—Carol Ip, Masters/ Grandmasters Bikini category, yoga and Pilates instructor

5 “I always saw the girls in fitness magazines—I thought they looked amazing, but I never imagined it was something I could do. I’m a super-shy person, so I really had to push myself to go out on stage. I asked myself, ‘What can I learn from this experience? What can I teach my kids?’ But in the moment, as soon as I started to walk out there, my knees were shaking!”—Tanya Momeni, Bikini category, co-owner of the Hide Lounge

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 8

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SPONSORED REPORT

HAVE A SPRING FLING IN WHISTLER Late spring is the season for multisport days, awesome events, and unique dining and accommodation specials at BC’s favourite resort town.

etween mid-April and May, it’s an exciting time of year in Whistler, when everything springs back to life: flowers bloom, black bears wake from hibernation, and Whistler Village buzzes with activity. EXTEND YOUR STAY FOR LESS WITH OFF-PEAK PRICING Visitors can expect superb value during Whistler’s spring season, thanks to off-peak pricing. With midweek rooms from $99, incredible dining specials, and early-season pricing at golf courses, it’s a great time for extended stays to take in all of Whistler’s warmer weather offerings. MULTISPORT DAYS: PICK YOUR PLEASURE Late Spring is an exceptional time in Whistler, where warmer temperatures and longer days coexist with snowy mountaintops, making it possible to hit the slopes in a teeshirt in the morning and to choose your own adventure for the rest of the day: will it be golf, hiking, paddling, ziplining, or biking on the Valley Trail? Or maybe a relaxing afternoon on a sunny patio followed by a rejuvenating spa treatment? Pick your pleasure from the abundant options.

BICI GUSTI GOURMET RIDE Bici Gusti Gourmet Ride returns to Whistler for May Long Weekend. It’s a veritable feast for the senses for an intimate group of cyclists, who embark on an excursion through the picturesque Whistler and Callaghan Valleys. In the evening, riders are treated to an exquisite gourmet dinner made from locally sourced ingredients and carefully paired with handselected wines.

For more information on what Whistler has to offer in late spring, visit whistler.com/spring-thing.

Photos fromTourism Whistler/Mike Crane

GO FEST: WHISTLER’S GREAT OUTDOOR FESTIVAL Whistler’s Great Outdoors Festival (GO Fest) is back for Victoria Day Long Weekend, from May 18th to 21st, with its usual unbeatable combination of open-air concerts, sports events and clinics, film showings, and more.

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Winning Dishes St. Lawrence brings home Québécois comfort food— and a pair of Gold medal wins.

28 VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 8

R E S TAU R A N T AWA R D S

Need High Res

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Here it is: our annual survey of all the can’t-miss spots in town. Our judging panel spent the year feasting their way through this city—from rooms with starched white tablecloths to joints with waxed-paper wrappers—to bring you the definitive list of the best places to eat right now. PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Luis Valdizon & Christin Gilbert

2018-03-28 5:16 PM

St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com “My family never went to restaurants when I was growing up,” recalls JC Poirier as he leans forward over a rare empty table at this year’s Restaurant of the Year. He points back at the kitchen, already in full cacophony five hours before opening, and says, “But we’re making the type of food here that I loved eating at home when I was a kid.” The chef speaks with the heavy accent of his Québécois upbringing, and it’s always a bit of a jolt to realize that someone who is so much a part of this city’s culinary fabric—in addition to St. Lawrence, he is also an owner of Ask for Luigi, Pourhouse, Pizzeria Farina and, recently, Di Beppe—arrived in this town only 14 years ago without speaking a lick of English. He worked alongside Rob Feenie and fellow Quebecer Marc-Andre Choquette at the legendary Lumière, where, building on the lessons he learned under Normand Laprise at Montreal’s Toqué!, he began the task of figuring out how to translate his youthful love of cooking into a tangible talent. If Poirier were interested in building a creation myth, he would wax about his long-held dream to one day open a restaurant that was an ode to the food of his childhood, but, really, if he has any trait that rivals his cooking skills, it’s his matter-of-fact pragmatism. He learned the hard way—with the closure a decade ago of his first venture, South Granville’s much-loved but under-patronized Chow—that the number-one job of the chef/owner is to cook not for yourself but for the customer. So, a few years back when he got into authentic pizza, he figured out how to channel that passion into a commercial format, and that morphed into the lo-fi (and low-risk) Pizzeria Farina. Its huge success moved him to mould his passion for Italian food into Ask for Luigi (and lest anyone think he’s more a concept guy, he worked the cramped line at AFL for the first two years). But it was clear from its opening last summer that St. Lawrence was something on a whole other plane. Sure, the space had to be right (it’s close to AFL, the rents are reasonable, it can accommodate enough diners to be feasible), but once he zeroed in on an idea that moved him—the confluence of classical French

and Québécois cuisine—it was off to the races: “It was the easiest menu I’ve ever written,” he confides about the first time he put pen to paper to imagine what St. Lawrence would become. The result is the intersection of a chef at the top of his powers with an owner who knows exactly how far his customers are willing to go with him. In this case, it’s the former Big Lou’s spot on a tough section of Powell, transformed by Craig Stanghetta into a cozy space that seems simultaneously luxe and understated. “I want it to look like it’s always been there” was Poirier’s directive, and as you walk through the door you recede into a space that eschews our city’s relentless focus on the outdoors and envelops you in some old-world charm. But that charm offensive is just beginning. “I can’t recall the last time I’ve seen a menu with such flow,” marvelled one Restaurant Awards judge, and (with only a hint of hyperbole) the dishes do play off each other like a symphony: the classics (a master class of a steak tartare, a beautiful mound of puff pastry hiding wild mushrooms in Mornay sauce, a classic meat pie first elevated with venison and then grounded with a playful Habs flag planted in the middle) give way to the fantastic (a savoury Paris–Brest that subs sweet cream out for foie gras mousse, a standard quenelle but made with fish and paired with mussels), which give way to a wine list that’s classical in its Gallicness but playful within those confines—natural Vouvrays, magnums of Bourgueil scattered among the Chablis and Bordeaux. And the allegro rice pudding is simply the best this town has ever seen. “This is the sort of restaurant Vancouverites used to have to travel for,” was the comment of one judge. Little of it seems to faze Poirier. He still appears to sweat the business side: a comment that the restaurant is constantly full is met with an immediate and reflexive recitation of times when there are spare seats (ed. note: Tuesdays at 9:30). He’s still happiest when he’s on the line, focused on the daily terrine, oblivious of the overnight success of St. Lawrence, 15 years in the making.

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LUIS VALDIZON

Chef JC Poirier

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IMAGE CREDIT

Balancing Act Chef Alex Chen in his element: employing precision and creativity in equal measure.

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Alex Chen

CHRISTIN GILBERT

Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar, 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca In the words of George Bernard Shaw, “Success does not consist in never making mistakes but in never making the same one a second time.” Truer words were never spoken about our Chef of the Year, who ran the Gold Medal Plates gauntlet twice before finally emerging victorious at this year’s Canadian Culinary Championships. Alex Chen’s Grand Finale dish was nothing short of a gastronomic tour de force. GMP judges praised his parfait of wild B.C. shellfish for “putting the entire Pacific Ocean in a tin”—a masterful oeuvre of balance, finesse and flawless precision. He left a prestigious executive chef position at the Beverly Hills Hotel to pursue his competitive aspirations, lured back to Canada in 2011 when all-knowing chef Bruno Marti spotted his talent. “It was the hardest thing for me to walk away from such a high-profile job. But I’ve always been fascinated by the emotional roller coaster and the art of competing,” says Chen. Yet competition alone does not a top-tier chef make. Our judges lauded “the absolutely Herculean effort” Chen has put forward since opening Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar in 2014 “to move a very traditional hotel kitchen forward into fresh, exciting cooking that remains grounded in unyielding rigour, classical French technique and respect for history.” He “effortlessly brings Asian sensibility, lightness and nuance to his menu in a subtle yet clear-eyed way that doesn’t feel foreign or intrusive.” He still finds great joy in working different stations on the line—according to Chen, “there’s nothing like the playful excitement of Friday- and Saturday-night service.” Above all else, though, Chen takes pride in building and nurturing long-standing relationships with both his suppliers and fellow chefs, many of whom have been with him since his Bocuse d’Or days. “Our [Boulevard] team has one of the best collaborative kitchen energies that I’ve ever experienced during my 20 years in the industry. We’re cooking from a place of respect and peace with ourselves and our cuisine, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything,” says Chen.

Best Producer Stoney Paradise Kelowna, facebook.com/StoneyParadise All ingredients are important. Every chef will tell you so. But just between us, some are more important than others. Let’s take Lycopersicon esculentum, the tomato. When it’s good, it’s divine, and when it’s not, every cretin on Yelp will be able to name its inadequacies (and then shout them from the rooftops). That’s why Angus An, Andrea Carlson, Adam Pegg, Lucais Syme, David Gunawan and a host of other chefs trust Milan Djordjevich (a.k.a. the Tomato Man) to carefully pluck his perfect specimens, load them in his truck and twice weekly make the four-and-a-half-hour trek from his Stoney Paradise Farm near Kelowna (stopping only occasionally to fly-fish the Coquihalla River) to supply them with imperfect perfection. And while he’s at it, he’ll probably bring some superlative beans or perfect Coronation grapes. For a thoughtful cadre of Lower Mainland chefs, his Stoney Paradise is the farm in farm-to-table.

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LUIS VALDIZON

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IMAGE CREDIT

It’s bursting at the seams with diners eager to try chef JC Poirier’s take on the Québécois food of his youth.

French Canadiana With its homestyle Québécois cooking, JC Poirier’s St. Lawrence won judges’ (and Vancouverites’) hearts this year.

St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com 2 Botanist 1038 Canada Pl., botanistrestaurant.com 3 Mak N Ming 1629 Yew St., maknming.com honourable mentions j Yuwa, Fayuca Imagine if, in the story of the tortoise and the hare, the bunny just kept running and running until he won the race by a country mile. That would be the 2017 juggernaut that was this year’s Gold winner, St. Lawrence. It was easily the most hyped restaurant opening of the year (historically more of a curse than a blessing in this category), but it was months, if not years, in planning before it opened its doors: menu testing, numerous pop-ups, staff training—repeat. The result is that it had nary a noticeable road bump this year and a reservation book that’s bursting at the seams with diners eager to try chef JC Poirier’s take on the Québécois food of his youth. That being said, Silver winner Botanist is no tortoise. The beautiful room anchoring the Fairmont Pacific Rim managed to pull off the insurmountable task of changing the direction of a purpose-built hotel dining room, with the help of chef Hector Laguna and designer Craig Stanghetta—transforming the former Oru into a room that channels a luxe locavorism. And Bronze goes to the dream team of chef Makoto Ono, pastry chef Amanda Cheng and sommelier Roger Maniwa of Mak N Ming, who opened a tasting-menu-only restaurant in the middle of the most casual street in town and have brought people in to their jewel-box room by preparing some of the most dynamic, adventurous fare in Vancouver.

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Best New Design Botanist

1038 Canada Pl., botanistrestaurant.com

The material palette is rich in texture and executed beautifully.”

The design group Ste. Marie captures yet another Gold— they’ve won Best New Design for five out of the last eight years—for Botanist and its garden-meets-gold design. The transformation of the underutilized former Oru space into a bustling and beautiful art deco restaurant illustrates that principal Craig Stanghetta appears to have the Midas touch. “The material palette is rich in texture and executed beautifully,” says judge Denise Ashmore of Project 22 Design. Close second went to Scott Cohen for his design of Fayuca, a take on Northern Mexican design that won the hearts of the judges for its attention to detail. “The depth of consideration in the project was remarkable,” says judge and architect Marianne Amodio, “from the understanding of the history of the place to the investigation of traditional construction methodologies.”

EMA PETER

2 Fayuca 1009 Hamilton St., fayuca.ca HONOURABLE MENTIONS j La Glace, La Taqueria (Hornby), St. Lawrence

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2018-03-29 12:50 PM

Premier Crew They’re the hosts, servers, sommeliers and bartenders that can make a dining experience truly magic.

All Stars Jen Mansell, Julie Sopuck, Eryn Dorman and Michael Ziff chat at Burdock and Co.

Jen Mansell

Julie Sopuck

Eryn Dorman

Michael Ziff

“The best part of my job is the guests. When things are spontaneous and joyful and people are really engaging with each other along the bar, there’ll be a chain reaction where someone will spy something or overhear something that someone else is doing. There’s a camaraderie that happens that brings people together.”

“I was actually a regular at the bar first before I started working here. It was sort of my neighbourhood haunt. I came in, got to know the staff, and drank natural wine for the first time in my life. I had that engagement that I now love to facilitate. I just completely fell in love…I’ve been [working] here for four years and now I’m the GM, which is kind of my dream job.”

“My first day at the restaurant, I was stuck with a party of 16 and they all wanted separate cheques and then decided, ‘I’m going to take care of this person’s and I want to pay a third of that bottle,’ and it became a mathematical nightmare. So I spent the next hour just arranging bills only to go back and find out ‘Oh no, I want this instead.’ That was my trial by fire. Afterward, one of our GMs came up to me and said, ‘You killed it tonight. You handled it beautifully— welcome to the Mackenzie Room.’”

“I was identified as someone who really liked the industry early on, and I was mentored for about five years by the same person who took me to different restaurants with him and inspired me to learn more and understand the foundations of hospitality. I still do certain things that he taught me to do [like] the way I open the wine. You know what it is? It’s my presence at the table with guests.”

Burdock and Co., general manager, burdockandco.com

The Mackenzie Room, sommelier, themackenzieroom.com

St. Lawrence, host, stlawrencerestaurant.com

LUIS VALDIZON

L’Ufficio, bartender and server, laquercia.ca/lufficio

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Imagine an It’s a Wonderful Life scenario in which Anthony von Mandl was never born. The Okanagan, far from the swank destination it’s become, looks like a slightly updated version of its pre-1980 self—lots of A&Ws, a few steakhouses and duelling Super 8s lining Kelowna’s Harvey Avenue, housing road-tripping families who like to take back a crate of peaches to Red Deer in the back of the Grand Caravan. The wineries, such as they are, would be of two camps: the behemoths, cranking out jug wine from whatever grapes they were able to get to max ripeness, or a handful of very niche spots, seldom tasted, visited even less, hoping desperately that someone from Wine Spectator might stumble upon them and make them a star. B.C. consumers, having never been exposed to local wine, would be content with a selection at the BCLDB that mirrors that on the shelves of the Safeway in Bellingham—at double the price. And our wine lists would likewise be doctrinaire affairs, indistinguishable from those of the Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Indianapolis. Talk about a nightmare. But, thankfully, none of this happened. Instead, in 1981, a 31-yearold Tony Mandl, possessing altogether too much moxie and not nearly enough cash, decided to buy one of the five wineries in the Okanagan when interest rates were pushing 20 percent and the local wine happily doubled as gum remover. And then with Mission Hill, he set about the absurd task of making wine that would stand on par with the greats he had tasted in his travels to Europe. And when—against all odds—the first few accolades came pouring in (like the 1994 chardonnay winning Gold at London’s International Wine and Spirits Competition), he didn’t do the sane thing and take the profits and run, but instead plowed the money (and then some) back into hiring up-and-coming Seattle architect Tom Kundig to create not just the most impressive winery in B.C. or in Canada, but one that eclipsed anything in Washington or Oregon as well. And then he set up a restaurant that eschewed casualness in favour of creating great food to pair with wines in a setting so spectacular that it still ranks among the world’s best. Perhaps the craziest aspect of all is that with his ultra-premium CheckMate Artisanal Winery setting its sights on being at the perfect climatological locus of future wine greatness, and the likewise ultrapremium temple of pinot and riesling that is Martin’s Lane just opening its new winery doors, we may simply be at the halfway point in this innovator’s career.

JAMES O’MARA

Mission Hill, missionhillwinery.com

2018-03-27 2:21 PM

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Bartender of the Year Satoshi Yonemori

CHRISTIN GILBERT

Grapes and Soda, 1541 W 6th Ave., grapesandsoda.ca When is a good drink more than just the drink itself? For Bartender of the Year Satoshi Yonemori, the answer to this question lies in dovetailing the inordinate amount of care and precision that goes into crafting a top-shelf cocktail with unwavering consistency and exceptional customer service. a boutique winery pouring only Originally a cook in several the best of each harvest noteworthy Vancouver restaurant 3033–232nd Street, Langley, BC kitchens, Yonemori honed his 604 539 9463 | 1 866 233 9463 mixology craft behind the wood Tasting Room & Wine Shop: 11am–5pm daily at the Diamond, Wildebeest, backyardvineyards.ca and at Eau de Vie in Sydney, Australia, before settling into his position as opening bar manager for Grapes and Soda. His culinary background affords him a unique BackyardVineyardMAYTS_gvs.indd 1 2018-03-20 perspective when it comes to building the overall flavour narrative of his thoughtfully curated drink list. Lauded by both his peers and this year’s judges for his finesse and technical prowess, he creates classically rooted libations that eschew flash and fads in favour of elevating balance and Look for our wines at your taste above all else. favourite wine shop or Yonemori successfully nurrestaurant. tures a symbiotic relationship Buy from our OnLine store between bar and kitchen. He’s closdusoleil.ca highly skilled in articulating subtle nuances of flavour, seamlessly integrating unconventional ingredients from Grapes and OLD WORLD ELEGANCE...NEW WORLD EDGE! Soda’s locally focused food menu into his cocktails to give them a unique identity of place. Refined elegance and meticulous attenVisit our tasting room: 2568 Upper Bench Rd tion to detail are Yonemori’s hallKeremeos, BC marks, right down to his handOpens 7 days a week carved ice cubes, and an evening 250-499-2831 spent at his bar is invariably a @Closdusoleil singular drinking experience. Signature 2013

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Congratulations to the nominees and winners of this year’s awards Crowe MacKay LLP is proud to be the official accountants of the 2018 Vancouver Magazine Restaurant awards.

Sommelier of the Year

Our Hospitality Team provides innovative strategies and sound business advice to help our clients succeed. Smart decisions. Lasting value.

Jill Spoor

CHRISTIN GILBERT

Wine Director, Fairmont Hotels, fairmont.com If you’ve ever had a taste of Tavel at the Empress, tried a glass of 2010 Bordeaux at the Hotel Vancouver, or thrown back a quick splash of Siduri pinot from Oregon at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport before a flight, then you’ve tasted Jill Spoor’s influence. If you’ve gone to Botanist for a special occasion and splurged on a bottle of Raphaël et Vincent Bérêche Brut Réserve or any other of her selection of impossibleto-source grower Champagnes, then you’ve tasted her passion. In this city that fetishizes the small-scale, hand-selling sommelier, Spoor is an anomaly—a wine professional who’s able to combine a wine nerd’s love of all things esoteric (don’t get her started on her former stomping grounds in Northern Italy) with a position as wine director for the region’s Fairmonts that allows her immeasurable influence over how vast swaths of locals and visitors interact with wine in the city.

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Craig Elliott, CPA, CGA, MBA, Certified Chef craig.elliott@crowemackay.ca crowemackay.ca 1100 - 1177 West Hastings St. Vancouver, BC (604) 687-4511

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#200, 5455-152nd St. Surrey, BC (604) 591-6181

2018-03-22 10:32 AM

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Best Upscale

Best French 1 Le Crocodile 909 Burrard St., lecrocodilerestaurant.com 2 St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com 3 Au Comptoir 2278 W 4th Ave., aucomptoir.ca honourable mentions j L’Abattoir, Bacchus This category encompasses two very different approaches to French cuisine. Emerging on top is the classical perfection of Michel Jacob’s Le Crocodile, with proper service, starched napkins and expert takes on classics like lobster thermidor. But coming up fast is the—gasp—elevation of Québécois cooking at St. Lawrence, a cuisine undeniably French in inspiration, but equal part habitant in execution. Rounding out the group is the note-perfect brasserie that is Au Comptoir, with its zinc bar and authentic Gallic vibe that imparts a little Pigalle savoire faire into crunchy Kitsilano.

Holy shakeup, Batman. Chef David Hawksworth’s eponymous restaurant has owned this category since its opening. But this year it’s the second act of Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar, Alex Chen’s temple to all things seafood in the Sutton Place Hotel, that the judges felt had found its groove four years after opening. “The combo of [executive chef] Alex Chen and [chef de cuisine] Roger Ma may be the best in town,” noted one judge. Grabbing Silver was the uncompromising take on Italian that is Yaletown’s Cioppino’s, where there’s “a focus put on every angle that’s without equal” in the city. And taking Bronze is Scott Jaeger’s Burnaby stalwart the Pear Tree, which year in year out our judges rave about in terms of offering consistency and service while delivering some of the region’s best dishes, far from the limelight of downtown Vancouver.

CHRISTIN GILBERT

The combo of Alex Chen and Roger Ma may be the best in town.”

1 Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca 2 Cioppino’s 1133 Hamilton St., cioppinosyaletown.com 3 The Pear Tree 4120 Hastings St., Burnaby, peartreerestaurant.net honourable mentions j CinCin, Hawksworth

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introducing

JALAPEÑO M ARGARITA cazadores reposado tequila, triple sec, lime, jalapeño, cilantro, smoked chili salt.

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Protein Power A 32-ounce bonein rib-eye steak, courtesy of the legendary Hy’s.

Best Steakhouse

Once a diva, always a diva. Hy’s schools Vancouver in old-school style with its Gold-worthy steaks, legendary cheese toast and always-impeccable front of house. Sit at the bar and have a dirty martini while you wait for your table—and tableside service. Coming in a close Silver, Gotham reminds us all that a perfect steak, simply served with salt, pepper and untold amounts of butter, can be a work of art. And Bronze winner the Roof impressed judges with its modern and fun takes on steakhouse classics.

Chef Pino is now back in the very comfortable Gold Medal position thanks to some subtle tweaks to the menu. Best Italian 1 Cioppino’s 1133 Hamilton St., cioppinosyaletown.com 2 Savio Volpe 615 Kingsway, saviovolpe.com 3 Cinara 350 W Pender St., cinara.ca HONOURABLE MENTIONS j CinCin, Ask for Luigi Everyone needs a vacation, and evidently that’s what last year was for Cioppino’s, because Chef Pino is now back in the very comfortable Gold Medal position thanks to some subtle tweaks to the menu and the fact that he’s the rare head chef who’s in the kitchen almost every night. Hot on their heels is last year’s Best New Restaurant—Savio Volpe—whose more casual approach to relaxed-but-focused Italian has kept its reservation books packed since day one. Rounding out the medallists is Lucais Syme’s Cinara, a downtown spot beloved by those in the industry that’s at risk of losing its reputation as a hidden gem.

CHRISTIN GILBERT

1 Hy’s 637 Hornby St., hyssteakhouse.com 2 Gotham 615 Seymour St., gothamsteakhouse.com 3 The Roof 1032 Alberni St., glowbalgroup.com/the-roof HONOURABLE MENTIONS j Black and Blue, Joe Fortes

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1 Thomas Haas 2539 W Broadway, thomashaas.com 2 Chez Christophe 4717 Hastings St., Burnaby, christophe-chocolat.com 3 Temper 2409 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, temperpastry.com honourable mentions j Thierry, Beaucoup We change the name of this category every year— it’s been Bakery, it’s been Last Course—but under any name, Thomas Haas just keeps winning it. Evidently his skill with cakes and chocolate and tarts is the real deal, because this marks his eighth win. But the footfalls of Christophe Bonzon and his Burnaby Chez Christophe are close behind—the former CinCin pastry chef wowed the judges with his rotating menu of delicate creations. And a surprise third is Dundarave’s Temper, helmed by Stephen Hodge, who, not surprisingly, spent a while working under Thomas Haas before opening his own spot a few years ago.

We change the name of this category every year— it’s been Bakery, it’s been Last Course—but Thomas Haas just keeps winning it. Best Brunch 1 Burdock and Co. 2702 Main St., burdockandco.com 2 Belgard Kitchen 55 Dunlevy Ave., belgardkitchen.com 3 Merchant’s Workshop 1590 Commercial Dr., merchantsworkshop.ca honourable mentions j Café Medina, Au Comptoir We’re willing to stand in the rain for it, so of course it deserves its own category. Burdock and Co. leads the fray thanks to its small but eclectic group of dishes. Crispy fried chicken with dill pickle mayo and a poached egg is something our judges swooned over. Yes, there’s avocado toast at Silver surprise Belgard Kitchen, but there’s also the infamous Belgard bacon, a skillet sizzler of maple-bourbon pork belly with maple caramel. We dare you not to drool. And Merchant’s Workshop more than earned its Bronze for chef/owner Doug Stephen’s clean yet comforting fare (hot chicken FTW).

CHRISTIN GILBERT

Best Patisserie

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Volcanic Hills Estate Winery Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting: Bottle, Barrel, Tank & Bistro Bites

Bowled Over The thoughtful use of ingredients typifies Masayoshi’s approach to Japanese cooking.

PASSION & CRAFTSMANSHIP

Best Japanese

1 Masayoshi 4376 Fraser St., masayoshi.ca 2 Kishimoto 2054 Commercial Dr., kishimotorestaurant.com 3 Tetsu Sushi Bar 775 Denman St. honourable mentions j Sushi Bar Maumi, Dosanko

S M , - .   L  C --

Chef Masayoshi Baba’s culinary focus is as sharp as his knives, and he wins Gold this year for his elegantly adventurous exploration of omakase dining at his eponymous Fraser Street restaurant. Masayoshi’s thoughtful expressions of seasonality combine grand theatrics with the most delicate detailing over the course of an exquisite gastronomic journey. Silver winner Kishimoto elevates the neighbourhood dining experience with chef Akira Kishimoto’s impeccably executed dishes that are elaborately plated with a sense of artful whimsy. Judges awarded pocket-sized Tetsu Sushi Bar with Bronze, recognizing the care, skill and attention that goes into crafting pitch-perfect sashimi and nigiri.

Best Pan-Asian 1 Longtail Kitchen 126-810 Quayside Dr., New Westminster, longtailkitchen.com 2 Torafuku 958 Main St., torafuku.ca 3 Kissa Tanto 263 E Pender St., kissatanto.com honourable mentions j Laksa King, Fat Mao Noodles Accented by a sense of delicious playfulness, Southeast Asian street food is vibrant, bold and lively. Longtail Kitchen tops the podium with a menu by Angus An and Justin Cheung that’s plucked straight from hawker stalls in warmer climes, featuring dishes like Malaysian laksa, Filipino Bicol Express and Singaporean cereal butter prawns. Chic and modern Torafuku wins Silver for its sharply executed lineup of sharing plates neatly paired with inventive cocktails. And Kissa Tanto’s elegant Japanese-Italian dishes set against a sultry supper-club backdrop garner the Bronze.

 B R. W K O D | W C | P  B

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Best Thai

1 Maenam 1938 W 4th Ave., maenam.ca 2 Sen Pad Thai 7-1666 Johnston St., senpadthai.com 3 Jitlada 1459 W Broadway, jitlada.ca honourable mentions j Sawasdee Thai, Kin Kao AuthenticWinesMAY18QP_gvs.indd 1

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It’s fitting that earlier this year chef Angus An welcomed his mentor, the legendary David Thompson, to cook with him for a few nights at Gold winner Maenam, because the West 4th stalwart has quietly and easily become one of the finest Thai restaurants in the world. Not surprisingly, some of An’s competition came from himself, with his newly opened lo-fi, pad Thai-centric Granville Island spot, Sen Pad Thai, taking Silver. Sneaking in for third place is the criminally undervisited Jitlada, the Broadway and Granville room with an elegant and affordable take on Thai staples.

Best Vietnamese

Three Golds in three years means Mr. Red Café is doing something right, and that something is the Northern Vietnamese fare produced by owners Rose Nguyen and her chef husband Hong Duong. Dishes like the young rice cakes with ground pork and prawn have made Tuesday night lineups irritatingly common at both locations. Meanwhile, Chau Veggie Express repeats last year’s snag of Silver thanks to its vibrant and healthy vegetarian menu. And newcomer Bánh Mi Très Bon shows that Richmond has more than just great Chinese food, with its organic pho, house-made bread and Bronze-worthy macarons (yes, macarons). 4790 Wild Rose Street, Oliver BC

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CARLO RICCI

1 Mr. Red Café 2680 W Broadway, 2131 E Hastings St. 2 Chau Veggie Express 5052 Victoria Dr., chowatchau.ca 3 Bánh Mi Très Bon 1840-4720 McClelland Rd., Richmond, banhmitresbon.ca honourable mentions j Hái Phong, Bun Cha Ca Hoang Yen

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Best Ramen

1 Marutama Ra-men 780 Bidwell St., marutama.ca 2 Hokkaido Ramen Santouka 1690 Robson St., santouka.co.jp/en 3 Ramen Danbo 1833 W 4th Ave., ramendanbo.com honourable mentions j The Ramenman,

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Winner, winner, chicken dinner. This category has always been hotly contested and cause for long debate among our judges. Marutama topped this year’s list for its silky, deeply aromatic chicken-based and seaweedlaced broth. Well, that and the mega karaage chicken (squeeze the lemon slice over it; you won’t be sorry). No surprise that the lightly salted porkbased broth at the always-popular Hokkaido Ramen Santouka grabbed Silver (although those weird and wonderful green cream sodas might have lent a helping hand). Muchunder-sung Ramen Danbo rounds out the podium thanks to its full-bodied and creamy tonkotsu.

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CHRISTIN GILBERT

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Best Indian

1 My Shanti 15869 Croydon Dr., Surrey, vijs.ca/my-shanti 2 Rangoli 1480 W 11th Ave., vijs.ca/vijs-rangoli 3 Sachdeva Sweets 118-7500 120 St., Surrey, sachdevasweets.com honourable mentions

1123 Mainland St. Vancouver 604-633-1280 bistrosakana@hotmail.com bistrosakana.com

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All that glitters is Gold for My Shanti as it takes top honours in this category for the second straight year. Vikram Vij’s eclectic menu reads like a culinary road map of his travels through India, showcasing specialties from lesser-known regions of the country with uncompromising flavour. Larger digs and a cocktail bar to lubricate late-night snacking contributed to Rangoli’s Silver award; judges praised Meeru Dhalwala’s value-driven slate of lush and hearty home-style dishes. Sachdeva Sweets wins Bronze for its hyper-authentic take on traditional Punjabi fare, ranging from tandoori and curries to chaat and a staggering array of desserts.

ARIANA GILLRIE

j Swad, Apna Chaat House

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Best West Coast

1 Dynasty Seafood 108-777 W Broadway, dynasty-restaurant.ca 2 Golden Paramount 8071 Park Rd. , Richmond, restaurantwebx.com/GoldenParamount 3 Hoitong Seafood 8191 Westminster Hwy., Richmond, restaurantwebx.com/Hoitong HONOURABLE MENTIONS j Jade Seafood, Yue Delicacy Vancouver and Richmond are packed with restaurants that practise the high art of Hong Kong-style Cantonese cuisine at stratospheric levels, but what sets Gold winner Dynasty Seafood apart is chef Sam Leung’s willingness to explore new ideas and flavours. The famous typhoon shelter crab with sticky rice is liberally dusted with garlicky toasted bread crumbs to provide lively crunch, spare ribs are braised with apple cider vinegar for rounded tart sweetness, Canadian lobster and crab tomalley is carefully extracted to serve as the creamy base for braised tofu. Silver winner Golden Paramount excels at dim sum in a classical style and will soon be moving to new, much fancier digs. And Bronze winner Hoitong Seafood is a tiny hidden gem that channels old-money Hong Kong with private-club-style dining.

1 Burdock and Co. 2702 Main St., burdockandco.com 2 Forage 1300 Robson St., foragevancouver.com 3 Mak N Ming 1629 Yew St., maknming.com HONOURABLE MENTIONS j Bows and Arrows, Royal Dinette So what the heck is West Coast? Well, our judges know it when they see it. It’s that unique blend of locavorism, skill and a willingness to break the rules—three things that perfectly sum up Andrea Carlson’s approach to cooking at Gold winner Burdock and Co. Or it’s Chris Whittaker’s embrace of bison, game and other distinctly Western ingredients to wow the diners at runner-up Forage. And it’s definitely the nexus of seasonality and ingenuity that marks the tasting menu at third-place finisher Mak N Ming. See, it’s simple.

LUIS VALDIZON

Best Chinese

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Best Bar 1 Molli Café 1225 Burrard St., mollicafe.com 2 El Santo 680 Columbia St., New Westminster, elsanto.ca 3 Fayuca 1009 Hamilton St., fayuca.ca honourable mentions j Cacao, Los Cuervos Looking at this list, it’s amazing to think that even a few years ago it was common to hear the whine: “We have no good Mexican in No Fun City.” Quality has never been a problem with Gold Medal winner Molli Café—the Saturday-only lamb consommé is legendary, and they create little low-key taco miracles daily—but their location on a tough-to-access section of Burrard has plagued them since day one (and they’ve noted they’ll likely be closing shop soon). The location of our Silver medallist, El Santo, is New West, and while that might have been a hindrance in years past, these days the Royal City’s food scene is hopping (thanks mostly to El Santo’s great mix of cocktails and casual Mexican made with top-quality ingredients). And our third-place finisher—the newcomer Fayuca—is the most ambitious of them all, with an intense focus on Mexico’s heretofore locally unknown cuisine from the north Pacific coast.

In resurrecting this category, judges sipped their way through a broad spectrum of stand-alone spots offering choice libations. Gold winner Grapes and Soda has carved out a unique niche for itself as Vancouver’s first exclusively natural wine bar. Soulful and laid-back, it offers wine director Kieran Fanning’s thoughtfully curated list of artisanal organic, biodynamic bottles alongside bar manager Satoshi Yonemori’s impeccably nuanced cocktails. Upstairs at Campagnolo snags Silver for its speakeasy feel and a focus on classic cocktails crafted by the dynamic duo of Peter Van de Reep and Rob Scope. Bronze goes to the Narrow Lounge, which is (well, was) quite possibly the city’s best-kept bar secret; you’d enter through a graffiti-covered stairwell when the red light beckoned and be enveloped in its ultra-cool underground charm.

CHRISTIN GILBERT

Best Latin

1 Grapes and Soda 1541 W 6th Ave., grapesandsoda.ca 2 Upstairs at Campagnolo 1020 Main St., campagnolorestaurant.ca 3 The Narrow Lounge 1898 Main St., narrowlounge.com honourable mentions j Uva, The Shameful Tiki

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Chef Alex Chen serves up a mean linguine alle vongole and has a dab hand with ling cod.

Best Seafood

1 Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar 845 Burrard St., boulevardvancouver.ca 2 Blue Water Cafe 1095 Hamilton St., bluewatercafe.net 3 Ancora 1600 Howe St., ancoradining.com honourable mentions j Landmark Hotpot, Oddfish After skirting around Bronze for a few years, Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar has upset the status quo maintained by Blue Water Cafe since 2008 and earned its first Gold. Chef Alex Chen, in addition to being the first B.C. chef to claim the national title at the Golden Medal Plates this year, serves up a mean linguine alle vongole and has a dab hand with ling cod. Blue Water Cafe earned a more-than-respectable Silver for chef Frank Pabst’s consistently beautiful seafood, while the Peruvian-influenced shellfish platters at Ancora no doubt help maintain its podium standing.

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Best Dim Sum 1 Golden Paramount 8071 Park Rd., Richmond, restaurantwebx.com/GoldenParamount 2 Dynasty Seafood 108-777 W Broadway, dynasty-restaurant.ca 3 Kirin 7900 Westminster Hwy., Richmond, kirinrestaurants.com honourable mentions j Yue Delicacy, Red Star Seafood (Granville)

Judges lauded Golden Paramount’s understated, meticulous dim sum presentation, awarding it Gold for chef/owner May Chau’s flawless execution of Cantonese classics. Chau takes a reductive approach, distilling each of her delicately crafted dishes to elegantly spotlight top-quality ingredients, such as steamed dumplings with crab and pork, and shatteringly crisp daikon spring rolls. Upscale Dynasty Seafood earns Silver for dim sum head chef Garley Leung’s refined exploration of inventive flavour combinations like flaky baked barbecue pork pies with lemon, and luscious crab, shrimp and tomato dumplings. Kirin in Richmond is singled out for Bronze, ever consistent in championing seasonal local products.

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2423 Marine Drive, West Vancouver 604.922.1155 | feastdining.ca

We’re honoured to be a part of this year’s best restaurants finalists list Feast is part of the neighbourhood and we believe in fresh, locally sourced ingredients. We are excited to see the return of our neighbourhood nights with a live DJ this summer.

2018-03-29 4:05 PM

R E S TAU R A N T AWA R D S

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Best Chain

1 Cactus Club Cafe Various locations, cactusclubcafe.com 2 Joey Various locations, joeyrestaurants.com 3 Tacofino Various locations, tacofino.com honourable mentions j Nuba, The Flying Pig We live in a golden age of chains, in which even small operations are looking at expanding into multiple outlets—and if they need to look for guidance, they can do no better than this year’s Gold winner. There can be no doubt that Cactus Club Cafe’s mix of quality and consistency has it residing at the top of the profitability food chain in any number of Canadian cities (Edmonton, Calgary, Toronto), but it’s the home base with its mix of jaw-dropping locations (Coal Harbour, English Bay) and innovative cooking (Ash Street test kitchen) that delivers the top spot. Ironically, much the same could be said about Silver medallist Joey, which would win this category if it were up against anyone other than Cactus. Rounding out the group is the more local Tacofino, which added a Michelin-starred chef (Stefan Hartmann), and still packs ’em in from downtown to Yaletown to Hastings-Sunrise with a blend of casual Mexican fare that helped reinvigorate Latin cuisine in this city.

Tel: 604-945-9700 | Toll Free: 1-800-575-4393 info@ponderosa-mushrooms.com ponderosa-mushrooms.com

Best Pizzeria 1 Via Tevere 1190 Victoria Dr., viateverepizzeria.com 2 Nicli Antica 62 E Cordova St., niclipizzeria.com 3 Pizzeria Farina 915 Main St., pizzeriafarina.com honourable mentions j Corduroy Pie Co., Bufala The heady days of a new pizza spot opening every month are long behind us, and we’ve settled into the enviable position of being a city where you’re never more than a short walk from great pie. But the way our judges see it, no one is luckier than the residents of Commercial Drive, because they can stroll to Gold winner Via Tevere for the perfect combination of chew, char and cheese. Close behind are the Gastowners, who can feast on the “we don’t cut our” pizzas at Nicli Antica, and then those willing to cram themselves into JC Poirier’s tiny take on greatness—Pizzeria Farina.

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1898 West 1st Avenue Vancouver 604-731-5370 info@cacaovancouver.com cacaovancouver.com

FELICITACIONES TO ALL RESTAURANT AWARDS FINALISTS!

Best Victoria

1 Agrius 732 Yates St., agriusrestaurant.com 2 Fishhook 2656 Quadra St., fishhookvic.com 3 Part and Parcel 2656 Quadra St., partandparcel.ca honourable mentions j Chorizo and Co., Pizzeria Prima Strada It’s a repeat win for Cliff Leir’s stellar Agrius, which brings a mélange of elements—great bakery, killer cocktails and laser focus of locavorism—and serves them up in the capital city’s swankiest room. Taking Silver is Kunal Ghose’s two-location Fishhook, where the chef continues his mastery of all things seafood at an approachable price point. And ultraquaint Quadra Street gem Part and Parcel takes Bronze with its low-key but serious food vibe.

Best Whistler

Thanks for dining with us! We’re thrilled to be a ﬁnalist in the Best Gastown category. Dinner – Brunch 60 West Cordova St. Vancouver | 604-559-8999 info@tuccraftkitchen.com | tuccraftkitchen.com

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Another upset category this year. It’s happened only once before that Araxi didn’t win Gold (in 2009, when Bearfoot Bistro took the honours). This time, it’s thanks to chef Isabel Chung of Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s the Grill Room. Chung wowed the judges with her brilliant forest-, farm-, field- and fish-to-fork menu that includes the likes of cedar-cured ivory salmon with apple cream. Araxi and its new chef Quang Dang is still getting a lot of love with Silver, while Alta Bistro, the perennial hipster of the group, shows it can still medal with the best of them.

NEIL RIMMER

1 The Grill Room 4599 Chateau Blvd., fairmont.com/whistler/dining/grillroom 2 Araxi 110-4222 Village Sq., araxi.com 3 Alta Bistro 104-4319 Main St., altabistro.com honourable mentions j Bearfoot Bistro, Bar Oso

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Best Okanagan 1 Waterfront Wines 104-1180 Sunset Dr., Kelowna, waterfrontrestaurant.ca 2 Raudz 1560 Water St., Kelowna, raudz.com 3 Old Vines 3303 Boucherie Rd., Kelowna, quailsgate.com/dine/ honourable mentions

There are three certainties in this world: death, taxes and that Mark Filatow’s Waterfront Wines will win this category (this year marks nine wins in a row). And while new restaurants continue to pop up, none can match Filatow’s blend of artistry and inventiveness all wrapped in a cloak of informality. Taking Silver is the resurgence of a classic—Rod Butter’s Raudz, one of the Valley’s pioneers and proof that its best days are still ahead. And rounding out the podium: the always classy Old Vines at Quails’ Gate winery.

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PINSTRIPE PRODUCTIONS

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Terroir Kitchen

Cinara Merchant’s Workshop

The Mackenzie Room Gudrun

Nook

Bao Bei

What Exactly Is a Neighbourhood Restaurant? When this category was dreamed up five years ago, the idea was never that it would recognize the “best” restaurant in a given jurisdiction. Instead, it would celebrate the local haunts that are so vital to a neighbourhood and yet so rarely recognized in major awards categories. There were rules drawn up to reinforce this: no chains, no brand-new spots, and if it’s impossible to simply walk in—sorry, Kissa Tanto—it’s out of luck. The goal is to get places that offer great food, but, more importantly, also offer an insight into the locals who live in that neighbourhood.

NORTH SHORE

YALE TOWN

1 Terroir Kitchen 2232 Marine Dr., West Vancouver 2 Swad 1734 Marine Dr., West Vancouver 3 Feast 2423 Marine Dr., West Vancouver 4 Maru Korean Bistro 125 2nd St. E, North Vancouver 5 Zen Japanese 101-2232 Marine Dr., West Vancouver

1 Provence Marinaside 1177 Marinaside Cres. 2 Bistro Sakana 1123 Mainland St. 3 Homer Street Cafe and Bar 898 Homer St. 4 House Special 1269 Hamilton St. 5 WildTale 1079 Mainland St.

WEST END

1 Nook 781 Denman St. 2 Kingyo 871 Denman St. 3 Marutama 780 Bidwell St. 4 Amici Miei 1114 Denman St. 5 Damso 867 Denman St.

DOWNTOWN

1 Cinara 350 W Pender St. 2 Royal Dinette 905 Dunsmuir St. 3 Tableau Bar Bistro 1181 Melville St. 4 Café Medina 780 Richards St. 5 Heritage Asian Eatery 1108 W Pender St.

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COME IN AND HAVE A GOOD TIME WITH US. BECOME A GOOD FRIEND.

Jitlada

THAI RESTAURANT

1459 WEST BROADWAY VANCOUVER B.C. V6H 1H6

604.738.9888

WE HOPE TO SEE YOU SOON!

Thanks Vancouver, for making us one of the best Thai spots in town!

2140-8391 Alexandra Road, Richmond 604-285-8569 | @cocoruchicken

1459 West Broadway, Vancouver 604-738-9888 | jitlada.ca

2140-8391 Alexandra Road, Richmond 604-285-8569 | facebook.com/cocoru01

The best tools for the best kitchens. Knifewear congratulates the winners of the Vancouver Magazine 2018 Restaurant Awards.

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GOLD

1 The Mackenzie Room 415 Powell St. 2 La Mezcaleria 68 E Cordova St. 3 Belgard Kitchen 55 Dunlevy Ave. 4 Wildebeest 120 W Hastings St. 5 Tuc 60 W Cordova St. CHINATOWN

1 Bao Bei 163 Keefer St. 2 Pizzeria Farina 915 Main St. 3 Upstairs at Campagnolo 1020 Main St. 4 Fat Mao Noodles 217 E Georgia St. 5 Jade Dynasty 137 E Pender St. Thanks for dining with us! We’re thrilled to be a finalist in the Best Japanese and Best East Side category.

E AST VAN

1 Merchant’s Workshop 1590 Commercial Dr. 2 Kishimoto 2054 Commercial Dr. 3 Bistro Wagon Rouge 1869 Powell St. 4 Bows and Arrows 4194 Fraser St. 5 Burdock and Co. 2702 Main St. WEST SIDE

1 L’Ufficio 3687 W 4th Ave. 2 Grapes and Soda 1541 W 6th Ave. 3 Bufala 5395 West Blvd. 4 Au Comptoir 2278 W 4th Ave. 5 Oddfish 1889 W 1st Ave. RICHMOND

2054 Commercial Drive, Vancouver | 604-255-5550 open Wed - Sun, 5pm to 9:45pm | no reservations kishimotorestaurant.com

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1 Gudrun 3500 Moncton St. 2 Nine Dishes 9231 Beckwith Rd. 3 Cocoru 2140-391 Alexandra Rd. 4 Britannia Brewing 250-12240 Second Ave. 5 Lido 4231 Hazelbridge Way

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They toil all year, eating at more spots than the average diner visits in a lifetime: here’s the all-star panel of gourmands that make up our esteemed judging panel.

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Christina Burridge is the executive director of the BC Seafood Alliance. Sid Cross continues his lifelong passion for and pursuit of high-quality food and wine, and spends his time volunteering to help others. Joie Alvaro Kent is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in Best Places Vancouver, Vancouver magazine, Montecristo and Nuvo. Gail Johnson is an award-winning print, web and broadcast journalist and a regular contributor to CBC Radio, the Georgia Straight, the Globe and Mail, Yahoo Canada and other outlets. Anya Levykh is a food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. She also edits—and voraciously collects—cookbooks. Lee Man is a regular contributor to Vancouver magazine and is a founding judge for the Chinese Restaurant Awards. Brendon Mathews is a freelance food writer with expertise in Chinese cuisine and a judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards. Heather Odendaal is a Whistlerbased wine sales and marketing professional who has been an active part of the local hospitality industry for over 14 years. Mijune Pak is the founder of Follow Me Foodie.com, a Food Network Canada personality and resident judge on Top Chef Canada. Tim Pawsey eats, drinks, writes and shoots at Hiredbelly.com; for Where, Quench, Taste and others; and on Instagram and Twitter @hiredbelly. Treve Ring is a wine writer, judge, traveller and geek; when not tasting at the Trevehouse, she can be found on a plane or in a vineyard. Jennifer Schell is the author of cookbook series The Butcher, The Baker, The Wine and Cheese Maker, a former editor of Food and Wine Trails magazine, co-founder of Garagiste North Wine Festivals and co-proprietor of Schell Wines. Mia Stainsby is the Postmedia Network restaurant critic for the Vancouver Sun and Vancouver Province. Iris Yim is an experienced editor who has worked in both Hong Kong and Vancouver. She writes travel and gourmet articles for different Chinese magazines and blogs in Vancouver, including EliteGen, AutoNerve, West Canada Weekly and BCbay.com on a regular basis. BEST NEW DESIGN JUDGES

Marianne Amodio is a registered, LEED-accredited architect and is principal of Marianne Amodio Architecture Studio. She holds a masters degree of architecture (honours) from the University of Manitoba. Denise Ashmore, founder of Project 22 Design, worked on a wide range of retail and hospitality projects in Toronto and Australia. She settled in Vancouver over 14 years ago to focus closely on residential and hospitality design. Martin Tessler is an award-winning architectural photographer whose work has been published in Western Living, Azure and the New York Times.

Congratulations to all of this year’s winners! 620 MALKIN AVENUE • 604.688.2508 EXT 232 INFO@TRIMPACMEATS.COM • TRIMPACMEATS.COM

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H O W T O O P E N A R E S TAU R A N T

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THE BIZ

Red Sauce Diaries Dive In The Iconic Nick’s Spaghetti House is about to undergo a big transition—and little Vito is the first off icial guest.

Nick’s Spaghetti House was one of the city’s last iconic restaurants. Can the team from Savio Volpe honour its past while creating their own future? BY

Neal McLennan Andrew Querner

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

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The Team

Paul Grunberg

Mark Perrier

Craig Stanghetta

It’s 5:30 on a snowy Wednesday night in late February, and Paul Grunberg is looking out at the growing flakes and worrying. “This isn’t good for tonight,” he mutters as he pulls out his phone and checks how many covers —170—are scheduled at his restaurant, Savio Volpe, where he’s sitting with his business partners, chef Mark Perrier and designer Craig Stanghetta. “Not good,” he says, looking out at the snow. “We should be at 220.” Grunberg’s just a few weeks removed from selling out of L’Abattoir, the popular Gastown spot he founded, and his newly grown-out beard, coupled with his dialled-in focus, recall a Serpico-era Al Pacino: equal parts energy and cool reserve. If his partners have any of Grunberg’s concern about the snow, they’re not showing it. Perrier has the perspective of someone who’s already walked away from this industry once: several years ago, he was an up-andcoming chef with stints at Le Gavroche in London and West under David Hawksworth when the combination of kitchen politics and the grind of the industry got to him—so, with an eye to his young family, he packed it in. He spent the three years prior to Savio happily toiling as a butcher at Two Rivers Meats. And Stanghetta, a designer who, with his company Ste. Marie Design, spent the previous decade before Savio turning other restaurateurs’ dreams into reality, still maintains an air of I-can’t-believe-I-get-to-do-thisas-my-job excitement when he sits in the corner booth of a place that he actually owns. Nothing helps promote camaraderie in the restaurant business like success, and Savio’s enviable balance sheet only reinforced the feeling these three had that they were on to something special when they first saw a decrepit tire store at Fraser and Kingsway.1 Instead of seeing environmental issues, they imagined an Italian spot built around a wood-fired oven: the sort of place they’d envisioned when they’d get together every Saturday to talk about what would make the perfect restaurant. But the team is not here to talk about Savio.

1 Funnily enough, Stanghetta and Grunberg first saw the building separately: Grunberg on his own and Stanghetta with Bao Bei’s Tannis Ling, who ultimately decided to pass on the space.

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SPONSORED REPORT

PATIOS, PICNICS AND PARTIES PREVAIL IN LOWER LONSDALE THE SHIPYARDS DISTRICT If you haven’t been recently, consider visiting North Vancouver’s fastest growing urban neighbourhood where a new al fresco culture has emerged and the action is non-stop.

uring the sleepy winter months, Lower Lonsdale The Shipyards District has been busy transforming itself into an urban waterfront and vibrant social gathering space with new attractions and entertainment, just in time for summer. Subsequently, this ‘hood’s evolution has inspired a new culture of restauranteurs offering up more funin-the-sun seats to please fans of al fresco dining and drinking. Lower Lonsdale The Shipyards District just may become your favorite new hangout, so hop on the 12-minute Seabus from Vancouver, and whether you prefer a patio or a picture-perfect picnic perch such as the pier, the park, or the new Megabench, take inspiration from our list to get you started. RESTAURANT ROW This unique one-block stretch at the foot of Lonsdale Avenue boasts an eclectic collection of five side-by-side independent restaurants that now all feature expanded patios. From Gusto di Quattro, to Burgoo Bistro, Anatoli Souvlaki, The District Brasserie and Raglan’s Bistro their well-crafted

food and drinks won’t disappoint and, if you visit all five, you’ll feel like you’ve travelled the world. SEASIDE HOT SPOTS If water’s edge dining is for you, then pull up a chair at Pier 7 where the breathtaking views are the perfect complement to an upscale seafood meal. At Tap & Barrel’s epic waterfront patio, West Coast casual fare is served up alongside barreled wines and beer on tap. If innovative local craft beers and tasty Bowen Island Pizza excites you, you’ll want to hit up Green Leaf Brewing’s patio. A MARKET WITH A VIEW Prefer picnics to patios? Try the gourmet food vendors at Lonsdale Quay Market. Build your own meal with freshly baked bread from Cobs Breads, charcuterie from Bowen Island Pizza, a salad from the Waterfront Salad Garden, seasonal fruit from Lonsdale Green Grocer and handmade sweets from Olde World Confections. Find your perfect al fresco spot and enjoy the action.

ETHICAL EATS Lower Lonsdale, referred to by some locals as the Shipyards District, is exploding with ethically-minded restaurants. From its 2nd floor locale, Café by Tao features organic plant-based raw vegan cuisine, Windsor Meats on Lonsdale Avenue is guided by a commitment to corporate social responsibility and high-quality ingredients and, one block north, Ocean Wise West Coast seafood dominates the menu at Fishworks. DINING IN THE GARDEN Some restaurants are transforming their outdoor patios by swapping flowers pots for raised gardens beds full of the yummy produce that will end up on your plate. With the help of North Vancouver’s LifeSpace Gardens, Lift Breakfast Bakery and Bean Around the World are leading the way.

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Feature H O W T O O P E N A R E S TAU R A N T

The OG Red Sauce Joint The murals from the original Nick’s will stay, says Stanghetta.

The Project

Savio’s success—the trio repaid their debt from the restaurant in an unheard-of 15 months—enabled the team to start casting about for other projects. They toyed with the idea of another version of Savio, an offshoot that would be different but would share some of the brand’s DNA. But their careful planning was interrupted by a phone call from a realtor acquaintance who specializes in the restaurant industry. A building at the north end of Commercial Drive had just been sold and the new owners, familiar with the Savio juggernaut, wanted them as the new anchor tenant. The kicker? The building—631 Commercial—housed Nick’s Spaghetti House, one of the few remaining icons of Vancouver’s early dining scene. The team’s immediate question: what was happening to Nick Felicella, the 86-year-old proprietor who opened the eponymous spot in 1955? They had zero interest in seeing an icon shoved aside as part of Vancouver’s gentripalooza. But a series of conversations with the octogenarian put their minds at ease. Nick wasn’t being pushed out: he was, after 62 years of service and with no

descendants willing to carry on the restaurant, ready to move on to retirement. Phew. Stanghetta lives in the neighbourhood and had been taking his daughter to Nick’s for old-school spaghetti and meatballs for years. He couldn’t fathom that the location was available. “There were so few properties with real character in this town,” he recalls. “And this one falls right in our laps. I couldn’t believe it.” Perrier also lives near the Drive and was likewise smitten. “I honestly thought we had a chance to bring back some of the vibrancy to this section of Commercial.” But on things operational these two cede to the experience of Grunberg, who says he thought about the opportunity for all of two seconds. “My test is simple: would I feel sick if we didn’t get this?” he says. “I thought about it, and I realized I’d feel sick if we didn’t get this.” Stanghetta nods in agreement. “In all seriousness,” he says, “one of the drivers for doing this is that if we didn’t do it and someone else comes and fucks it up, then this

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IMAGE CREDIT

H O W T O O P E N A R E S TAU R A N T

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New Generation Peter Ciuffa, who runs the salumi counter at Savio Volpe, strikes a serving pose in front of a vinyl reproduction of what the new restaurant may look like.

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piece of history would be gone for good.” So within 48 hours they had signed a letter of intent. And handed over a $30,000 deposit.

The Plan

Taking over Nick’s meant an immediate adjustment to the plans for a Savio offshoot. In the early stages, it’s Stanghetta’s job to figure out the story that will guide the team through the creative process. With Savio, it started with an image of a family of foxes and morphed from there. But Nick’s was no regional Italian spot but rather that unique hybrid that is the “red sauce” joint—a little dash of Naples, a pinch of Calabria and a huge heaping of North America as interpreted by the Italians—like Nick—who immigrated here starting at the turn of the last century. Stanghetta begins by gathering little pieces of inspiration that would help him envision the place: Ray Liotta sneaking in through the back door of the Copacabana in Goodfellas, a vintage ad for Hunt’s tomato paste, a matchbook from a long-ago Boston restaurant and,

inexplicably, a shot of a blue vintage rotary phone. And the cover of a record by crooner Lou Monte called Pepino, the Italian Mouse.2 He also went so far as to hire historian John Atkin to create a dossier not just on Nick’s but on the entire Italian-Canadian experience in Vancouver from 1900 onward so he could both honour and tap into that authenticity as they moved forward. But unlike Savio, which was a blank canvas, Nick’s came prepackaged with a storied past. Like the handpainted murals of random scenes of “Italy” that adorn the dining room’s wall. On one of the early walk-throughs, someone asked Stanghetta what would become of them: “Are you kidding? We’re keeping ’em,” he answered.

2 Monte, born Luigi Scaglione, had success with a series of Italian-American–themed novelty songs in the 1950s and early ’60s. In addition to “Pepino,” he recorded the Christmas carol “Dominick the Donkey,” which has, oddly, become a Vancouver Christmas tradition started by former news anchor Steve Darling on Global BC.

NICK’S E X TERIOR: K LIAW; NICK’S INTERIOR: MIKE A; PHONE: @FRANCESOGALLIFF

History Talks Stanghetta is taking design inspiration from the original red-sauce style of Nick’s Spaghetti House, as well as vintage pics like this Hunt’s ad, a rotary phone and Pepino the Italian Mouse. Spaghetti and meatballs (opposite) are a must on the menu.

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The Hurdles

When deciding whether to move on Nick’s, one of the issues the gang worried about was Nick’s compact footprint and its mere 77 seats. But they had an angle—next door to Nick’s is an operating convenience store, so the guys began to envision a companion spot to the restaurant that would be perfect as a wine bar. They negotiated with the landlord to take that space as well. Experience had taught the team that one of the keys to success is minimizing delays on the front end. The city is rife with stories of restaurateurs whose undoing was delays occasioned by development or liquor permits.3 “That’s why we made sure that we bought both the liquor and the business licence from Nick,” notes Grunberg. But the ink was just drying on the lease when word came back from the city: the convenience store space, that recently had housed an active, legally operating business, was not in fact zoned commercial. It was residential. The long-time operating corner store was, it turns out, only zoned for living in. Even crazier, the city’s master plan for this section of Commercial explicitly calls for more commercial frontage—which should have been a benefit, but because planning and licensing are different departments…it was a major problem. Grunberg recalls discussing whether they should just walk away and cut their losses, but the idea was very quickly discarded. “We weren’t walking away,” says Stanghetta. Instead they mobilized to get a building permit application in stat that called for a different use of the space, and in so doing they got a bit of a break: the city would agree to grandfathering the existing use—a convenience store—for the spot. So the idea of a wine bar would have to be shelved, but they could move forward with an Italian groceria concept: a store filled with the best stuff, perhaps branded by them, that might one day—with the city’s blessing—morph into a specialevent space. Ideal? Not really. But damn the torpedoes.

The Tasting

The unfinished Nick’s space still has a yellowed lunch menu taped on the wood laminate wall, a testament to just what a kooky hybrid the spot had become by

There are legends of spots that got derailed by such delays. Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe never really overcame an initial eightmonth delay relating to an exhaust upgrade. It closed in 2011.

the end. There’s a list of “Daily Specials,” but they’re the same every day: baked lasagne with ground beef, ricotta and mozzarella cheese for $18.50, et cetera. It’s this sort of dish that Perrier wants to honour—to a degree. This won’t be a place of note-perfect Ligurian regional dishes but rather a place that digs deep into the red-sauce mystique. And while the menu is Perrier’s domain, his partners have plenty of opinions. “Oh, we’re 100 percent keeping the cheesecake,” says Grunberg in reference to Nick’s staple dessert. And Perrier is on board with keeping up Nick’s tradition of Sunday night prime rib. “We’ll definitely lose money on that, but I don’t care. It’s staying.” But for the rest, it’s Perrier’s job to craft a menu that channels red-sauce themes without becoming kitsch. So every week, the team gets together midday at Savio and Perrier tests out potential menu items. “When we were doing Savio, I had to do all this in my home kitchen,” he recalls. At this stage no one appears to be concerned with the ultimate cost of things. Stanghetta notes that one of the hallmarks of late-incarnation Nick’s was that prices had crept up quite a bit—like that $18.50 for a lunchtime lasagne—so they have a lot of room to create cool things without raising prices. “I don’t cost things,” says Perrier. “I just focus

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All In Grunberg and Stanghetta confab at Savio Volpe for one of their weekly menu tastings.

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H O W T O O P E N A R E S TAU R A N T

on great ingredients.” And Grunberg gruffs: “If we wanted to just focus on making money, we’d be opening a pizzeria.” The first dish out is some Italian bread, still warm from Savio’s oven. Perrier announces that the goal is to create a denser, spongy texture to soak up red sauce, and everyone seems pleased with the result. The only question is whether they’ll make it in-house (more expensive) or outsource to be made to their specs (cheaper). And there’s no talk of adopting the new tradition of charging for bread: “We’re definitely going to give it away,” says Perrier. Next up is perhaps the most important dish for a spot opening in the old Nick’s: spaghetti and meatballs. Perrier hurries out with a platter of noodles crowned with three baseball-sized orbs of ground beef, pork and ricotta. The ricotta is Perrier’s fix to an earlier attempt that was deemed too dense by the brain trust, and the fix gets a big thumbs-up from the assembled. On closer inspection, the noodles are thicker than normal. “It’s actually spaghettoni—a little bigger,” says Perrier. “The funny thing is that spaghetti isn’t actually meant to be served with meat sauce. These noodles have a little more heft to go with the meatballs.” Another round of thumbs up. The afternoon plays out with dish after dish—a side of rapini and raisins, a classic chopped salad, a vegetarian portobello parmigiana—with comments bandied back and forth. It ends with a huge slab of the aforementioned New York–style cheesecake, made with cream cheese and ricotta and with a crust of graham crackers mixed with crushed biscotti. This version has strawberries, but Perrier plans on following the seasons with the toppings. This is his second attempt, and everyone is loving it. The only comment comes from Grunberg: “I’d like it to be taller,” he says about the already-towering slab of richness. Perrier looks down at the plate. “At a certain point, physics is involved, Paul.” And while there is some constructive critique, for the most part the mood is excited, summed up by Grunberg clapping his hands together at the end of the tasting and declaring, “I can’t wait to start serving this food.”

The Name

It’s early March and Phoebe Glasfurd is ready to move forward. She’s dying to move forward. The designer is one half of the Glasfurd and Walker branding powerhouse, which many describe as the yin to Stanghetta’s Ste. Marie yang because they work so closely together.4 Back in late 2017, there was a vague thought that the restaurant would have been entering into some sort of soft opening by now, but that’s so far from reality as to

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be laughable. Far, as in they don’t even have a name yet. “I really can’t start without a name,” she sighs. Once she has the name, she’ll start crafting her brief, which, like Stanghetta’s design plan, will lean heavily on the concept of storytelling to drive the visuals. “I imagine vignettes of what might happen in this space,” she muses, and from this she’ll work it up into a presentation that will encompass everything from signage to menus to stationery. “But I need a name.” Across town the fellas, for their part, are really sweating the name. They’ve narrowed it down to two but as yet haven’t reached consensus. Up first is Pepino’s Spaghetti House, loosely inspired by the novelty song of the same name. It’s catchy, playful and mirrors the throwback nostalgia of the restaurant’s concept. The other is the rather unconventional Spaghetti Mouse, a reference to Nick Felicella’s second-mostprized possession after his restaurant: a thoroughbred he picked up in 2003 for $21,000 that went on to win $929,850, the most ever by any B.C.-bred horse. It honours Nick and references when the spot was a big hangout for horseracing fans. It’s clear that Stanghetta thinks that Pepino’s will be easier to work with and requires less explanation. Perrier and Grunberg seem to be leaning toward Spaghetti Mouse, but they won’t do it without Nick’s blessing. And no one can get a hold of Nick.

The Outlook

Back at Savio, same corner booth. The opening is now looking like summer, but if there are any nerves around the table, no one’s expressing them. They just seem excited to have this place open. They’re talking about possibly creating a custom line of Italian dry goods for use in the shop; they’ve got some positive news from the city about the potential for special-use permits in the store space. Things are on the rails…for Pepino’s.5 “Honestly,” says Grunberg, “life is too fucking short.” He surveys the room. “I lost my old man not that long ago, and I want to build a place where I would have wanted to go have a meal or just hang out with him.” Great wine, fair prices, spaghetti and ribs. It’s not even open, and the place feels like it’s always been here.

4 Their first project together was 2010’s Bao Bei, where, as luck would have it, they both became fast friends with the opening GM: Paul Grunberg. 5 The team ultimately decided that, given how important it was to Nick to retire his name, Spaghetti Mouse would have also been too close for him—and the 86-year-old is just hard to get a hold of. So it’s Pepino’s, which pays homage to the thoroughbred, tips the hat to the old spot, but is also distinctly their own. And it’s cool.

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TWO SIDES

OF THE SAME DAY STEPHEN QUINN

GLORIA MACARENKO

CBC.CA/BC

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A D E S I G N E R ’ S T H R I F T Y D I G S / P OW E R PU R S E S / D E N I M B L I T Z

VA N M AG .C O M/G O

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PERSONAL SPACE

LESS IS MORE

Craigslist, consignment—the beach? Former eco-fashion designer Nicole Bridger shows us how shopping second-hand and getting resourceful pays off. j BY

Julia Dilworth Janis Nicolay

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Expert Eye “The whole thing about sustainability should be that it’s less expensive,” says Nicole Bridger. (Case in point: this vintage mid-century modern desk she scored for $350).

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Play P E R S O N A L S PAC E

Hand-Picked A 100-year-old chest is the perfect hiding spot for Bridger’s son’s toys—that way, the focus can stay on the exotic textiles, framed artwork from friends and a side-table collection of seashell keepsakes from family trips.

Home Scents The vintage credenza is one of her favourite finds because it reminds Bridger of her grandfather. “It smells like Scotch and cigars,” she laughs (inset, left). Sky’s the Limit “I’ve always been a hat person,” says the former fashion designer, an obsession she’s had since age two. Now cherished sun hats and panamas line the top of her walk-through closet, with only a portion visible here (opposite, inset). Sanctuary Bridger’s meditation corner is like a sneak peek into her next career—she’s left the fashion game to start a new business centred in intuitive coaching and healing belief systems (inset, right). Jam Session Bridger rocks out on her ukulele—“I wanted to do something creative that wasn’t making me money”—with son Rhame on bass (opposite, right).

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For Nicole Bridger and her nine-year-old son, Rhame, this West Point Grey top-floor apartment was an immediate fit—but the same couldn’t be said for her existing furniture. “I wanted something in this neighbourhood—I was actually born only a few blocks from here, by Trimble Park—but the credenza I had before was too small, the desk I had was too big…” and ditto for her old sofa and dining table. Starting from scratch, she chose to buy everything second-hand (save for one Edison bulb chandelier), including a mid-century modern desk for $350, a 10-person Ikea dining table for $150 and a 100-year-old chest coffee table—a steal at $40. Bridger closed down her eco-fashion operation in February (up next, she and her son are moving to Bali, where she’ll channel her brand’s “I am love” message into a book about her personal journey), but her desire to live sustainably is stronger than ever. “I think we need to start shifting from this need to ‘have, have, have,’ to ‘how about having less?’” she says. “Having stuff that’s

going to last, things you would actually pass on.” Most of the home’s colour comes from her beloved dark blue wall (painted specifically to highlight a favourite photograph from L.A. artist Zoe Crosher) and a cherished collection of wild-orange and sunsetred Persian rugs—“I think because it’s a dark floor, you can really go for it,” says Bridger. The two bedrooms are separated by the living room, and Bridger’s walk-through closet (which might be 90 percent hats) functions like a secret pathway that leads into her full ensuite. “This is actually one of my favourite parts, because it’s like my own little corner,” she says. Apartment extras are limited to cherished treasures picked up on the family’s travels (to India, El Salvador, Hornby Island) and musical instruments. “Rhame-o’s really into playing the drums and bass now,” says Bridger, herself a confessed ukulele player. “I was hoping he and I could start a band before he realizes it’s not cool. That window is becoming very small, though.”

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T H E H O T TA K E

Amanda Ross

j Leave it to Mac to

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pull off a completely wearable blue lipstick. Jean Genie is a creamy, rich formula with high colour and a no-shine matte finish, made in the brand’s Toronto lab. $22, maccosmetics.ca

Put some spring in your step with this season’s denim outlook, in all its slouchy, stonewashed glory.

k The just-released Denim coffee table book by Amy Leverton becomes the new street-style bible on the chic aesthetic allure of blue jeans. $44, indigo.ca

k It’s in your back pocket, along with your keys and wallet: Valentino Garavani’s Scout Joylock Maxi denim tote. $2,895, holtrenfrew.com

l Vancouver’s Native Shoes steps out this spring with the Monte Carlo, a sharp take on their low-cut classic street shoe in acid-washed denim. $90, native.com

NOW OPEN

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1035 Alberni St., jimmychoo.com What: Immortalized by Sex and the City, Jimmy Choo sets up its first Vancouver outpost this May with more than 1,500 square feet of Italian marble. Why we’re excited: Alberni Street’s string of bling continues with some of the sexiest shoes this side of the solar system. Find the brand’s entire range for women (from leather goods to fragrances) and a made-to-order service for creating your own dream bespoke accessories.

k It’s an ’80s redux with the Coach x Keith Haring collab highlighting American artist Haring’s iconic popart illustrations in a patchwork-forward denim jacket and skirt. $1,265 and $1,145, ca.coach.com

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T H E AC C E S S O R Y

ARM CANDY

Spring welcomes bright blooms, texture play and retro twists on old favourites. 4

1. Versace Daydreamer bag ($2,225), holtrenfrew.com. 2. Prada Printed Belt bag ($2,070), prada.com. 3. Givenchy Small Antigona Geo Embossed calfskin satchel ($3,565), givenchy.com. 4. Miu Miu leather bucket bag ($2,190), leone.ca. 5. The Row Ascot bag ($1,350), holtrenfrew.com. 6. Yves Saint Laurent Medium Kate Floral Tooling Embossed leather crossbody bag ($3,302), nordstrom.com. 7. Tory Burch Kira AppliquĂŠ shoulder bag ($598), toryburch.com. 8. ChloĂŠ Small Faye Bracelet bag ($1,160), holtrenfrew.com.

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FE AT

e n i W e h T e r e H is d l r o W

UR IN

GREAT FOOD. GREAT WINE LISTS. GREAT PEOPLE. The following awards were presented at the 40th Vancouver International Wine Festival in March. Spirited Industry Professional Barbara Philip MW The annual Spirited Industry Professional Award is presented to an individual who has made a significant contribution to the sales, service or promotion of wine in British Columbia. Barbara Philip was the first Western Canadian to achieve the Master of Wine designation and is the only woman in Canada with this distinction. For close to 10 years she has managed the European Portfolio at BC Liquor Stores, and is a presenter, educator, journalist and wine judge. Presented by

Sommelier of the Year Sean Nelson, sommelier, Vij’s The Sommelier of the Year Award recognizes working sommeliers who consistently demonstrate an outstanding passion for marrying wine with food and a dedication to exceptional service. Sean Nelson was selected through a hands-on competition organized by the BC Chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. Sean grew up in Greater Vancouver and entered the hospitality industry at age 16. After being bitten by the wine bug, he completed his WSET Intermediate and Advanced certification with Distinction and is working towards sitting the Master Sommelier Examination in 2019 Presented by

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Vintners Brunch Food and Wine Pairing Competition Executive Chef Poyan Danesh Ocean Mama Seafood Organic Black Tiger Shrimp, Textures of Caulifl ower, Almond Dust, Bacon Vinaigrette paired with Intersection Estate Winery Reserve Viognier-Marsanne Barrel Ferment 2014 Expert judges were Julian Bond, Josh Clark, Tim Pawsey and Joanne Sasvari. Sponsored by

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