Michigan Uncorked Summer 2023

michigan Uncorked VOL. 5 NO. 2 SUMMER 2023

• MALBEC & SANGIOVESE • VINYL, VINO & VIBES • CHILL HILL • FOUR IMMUTABLE LAWS • MSU HAS HISTORY IN WINE INDUSTRY

CONTENTS

www.michiganuncorked.com

4 MALBEC & SANGIOVESE Michigan is generally known for its cool-climate wines, but two warm-weather grapes are now making the scene at select vineyards in the state: Malbec and Sangiovese.

8 VINYL, VINO & VIBES 4

Cierra Mooney is a native of the Metro Detroit area, also known as Motown for many music lovers. Her love of wine and music have inspired her to create a concept for vinyl and wine dinners.

13 CHILL HILL Chill Hill Winery in Baroda has become one of southwest Michigan’s favorite venues to relax and enjoy live music.

13 Dr. Stanley Howell

16 FOUR IMMUTABLE LAWS Jack Costa provides four immutable laws for pairing food and wine, along with Michigan-made food and wine suggestions.

19 MSU HAS HISTORY IN WINE INDUSTRY For over 70 years, Michigan State University professors and staff have helped shape the Michigan wine industry.

23 BETWEEN THE VINES 19

Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Photo by Chill Hill Winery. Shores of Lake Michigan.

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR “Anyone who tries to make you believe that he knows all about wines is obviously a fake.”

— Leon Adams

S

ummertime, and the livin’ is easy. Especially with a glass of Michigan wine on your favorite Michigan beach.

In this issue of Michigan Uncorked, Jessica Zimmer gets the lion’s share of credit, with three bylines. Her rst article dives deep into some Michigan wineries that are growing warm weather grapes — Malbec and Sangiovese. Her second article

looks at the contributions that Michigan State University (MSU) has made, and continues to make, to the Michigan wine industry, and her third article features Chill Hill Winery in Baroda, Mich., which has become one of southwest Michigan’s favorite venues to relax, enjoy live music, and enjoy wines ranging from Dry Riesling to Catawba.

Jack Costa provide four immutable laws for pairing food and wine. It sounds complicated, but it’s not. With each food and wine pairing, Jack also suggests a suitable Michigan-made wine and food option. Emily Dockery puts the spotlight on Detroit natives Cierra Mooney and Tamela Todd, whose love of music, wine and literature have inspired creative concepts for new Michigan wine pairings . And, as always, our very own in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for select Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked Vol. 5 No.2 Summer 2023

Copyright © 2023 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink P.O. Box 121, Lake Leelanau, MI 49653, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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MALBEC AND SANGIOVESE IN MICHIGAN

by Jessica Zimmer

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by sJessica Zimmer Michigan becomes warmer and more humid, wineries are experimenting with exotic vines grown in South

America and the Mediterranean. Two new favorites are Malbec, a dry, jammy red grape grown primarily in Argentina, and Sangiovese, a versatile red grape that forms the base for most Italian wines. The rst rule of growing a warm weather vine is: “Can it survive a Michigan winter?”

Matt Moersch, CEO and owner of Moersch Hospitality Group, said the unique conditions on the shore of Lake Michigan o er temperature regulation that keeps grapes cool in the summer. The company’s viticulturists then use canopy management to allow more sun onto the grapes, creating ideal conditions for a Sangiovese.

Rudy Shafer, winemaker for Dablon Vineyards & Winery in Baroda (about four miles east of Lake Michigan), said Malbec grapes grow so well that he has to thin the canopy.

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“I try to prune until there’s one bunch per shoot. With that strategy, you can get between 3.1 and 5 tons per acre. Here Malbec grapes result in a red fruit, with a tart cherry, currant taste and a little bit of spiciness,” said Shafer.

Winemakers use di erent strategies to showcase warm weather grapes. Moersch makes his Sangiovese grapes into a straight varietal aged in French Oak for 16 months. The wine has notes of sun dried tomato, cherry, oregano, and tobacco.

Shafer makes a Malbec straight varietal, with aromas of strawberries and a hint of black pepper with avors of red fruit, plum, and spice. He also uses up to 10 percent Malbec grapes in several of Dablon’s red blends, including the estate red blend.

“Malbec adds that little bit of spice that adds the aromas of plums and pepper. It just wouldn’t be the same without it,” said Shafer.

How Lake Michigan in uences berries Warm weather wine grapes grown along lake shores in a cooler climate tend to di er from those grown under hotter, drier conditions.

Wine enthusiasts should expect Michigangrown Malbecs to be a bit less spicy than those from South America, said Kait Lemon, coowner of Lemon Creek Winery in Berrien Springs.

“The berries bounce between having a lush, fruit-forward taste and being on that spicier edge, depending on the growing season.

French Oak barrels draw out the avor,” said Lemon.

She adds Malbec vines are incredibly sensitive. A little more wind at a slightly higher elevation will cool the grapes, giving the wine more depth.

“Generally, Michigan-grown Malbec has aromas of cherry and plum. We have added it to Meritage, our North American Bordeaux-style wine, to provide dimension and depth,” said Lemon.

Jake Nivison, viticulturist for Domaine Berrien Cellars in Berrien Springs, said Malbec grapes grown in gentler winters have lovely, mild spice characteristics.

“These give the wine a dark purple fruit taste that’s full, rounder, and full of natural tannins. You have to be careful pruning.

Malbec tends to make massive clusters. We do a lot of removal of clusters pre-harvest so we can adequately ripen the grapes that remain. We typically use Malbec in our Crown of Cab red blend,” said Nivison.

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Mari Vineyards in Traverse City is currently growing both Malbec and Sangiovese grapes in Nella Serra hoop houses, a proprietary indoor growing environment. Sean O’Keefe, winemaker for Mari Vineyards, said he treats the varieties as premium wines to be added strategically to blends.

Since Mari Vineyards founder Marty Lagina comes from an Italian background, the winery planted more Sangiovese.

“Our Sangiovese has a very intense, grape-y fruit avor. The “fruitiness” is balanced by ne textured grape tannins that are the hallmark of this grape. We build Bel Tramonto, a red blend, around Sangiovese…with other tannic Italian varieties like Refosco and Teroldego, and sometimes a dash of Nebbiolo. Then we blend (in) some Merlot to round it out,” said O’Keefe.

Demand for warm weather wines is rising All the sources interviewed said wine club members and new customers have become more curious about wines from hotter climates.

“People don’t expect these vines in Michigan. Also we don’t make a lot of wines containing Malbec and Sangiovese. That and the quality of our red blends containing these wines make them among our top sellers,” said O’Keefe.

Lemon said she plans to use the Malbec, which is one of the original ve main Bordeaux wine grape varietals, to create a traditional French Bordeaux-style blend.

“Malbec will contrast the harshness of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Right now we’re giving our Malbec vines full sunlight and an assist from a trellis system to make sure the big berries survive the rain,” said Lemon.

Nivison said he sees the future for a Michigan-grown Malbec in getting the wine closer to a European Malbec.

“We want Michigan Malbecs to retain more acidity. The grapes should give the aroma of fresh fruit,” said Nivison.

William Schopf, owner and manager of Dablon Vineyards & Winery, agrees.

“Dablon’s Malbec is very similar to a French style-Malbec. It’s reminiscent of wines made in cool climates, with a nice minerality. We age it in French Oak barrels,” said Schopf.

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Experimenting with both

Jake Nivison, viticulturist for Domaine Berrien Cellars

In extremely hot weather, Malbec berries can become extremely large and heavy. This can cause the wine to develop a tobacco taste and a viscous quality.

Nivison said his goal for Domaine Berrien Cellars is to ripen fruit without raisining it. The idea is to ensure that the wine comes out clean and re ned.

“Ultimately we want to share the taste of fresh plum, not plum sauce, and notes of black pepper, without any bitterness,” said Nivison.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California.

She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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VINYL VINO AND VIBES

By Erin Marie Miller

By Emily Dockery

Wine is something that gets paired with everything under the sun these days. And those pairings are reaching for more accessible standards from the traditional 5 course wine dinners. From Halloween candy to potato chips, from fast food favorites to Girl Scout cookies. Wine is an obvious opportunity for classic ne dining pairings but is now becoming a catalyst for modern and creative pairings appealing to new audiences.

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Cierra Mooney, photo by Leah Judson

changing. Something that stays consistent is how humans use the senses to experience wine and food, typically smell and taste are the key to experiencing these pairings. But what about using wine pairings to create an experience and tap into all of the senses, not just the famous ve…but those we might not even be aware of? Some neuroscientists argue that humans consolidate their senses into clusters. These clusters when broken up can account for anywhere between 22 and 33 additional senses. Let’s take a few moments to consider pairing wine with experiences to potentially tap into those dozens of senses…and then let’s take it a step further…and consider pairing wine with community. Two women of color in Detroit are taking those concepts to heart and creating wine experiences to tap into the human senses and then some. Both of these new and exciting projects are centered around increased accessibility to wine through more comfortable entry points for many wine novices, music and books.

Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes Cierra Mooney is a native of the Metro Detroit area, also known as Motown for many music lovers. The Motown passion for music and sound is enmeshed in her DNA. Mooney has a history of immersing her sense of sound in the record collection inherited from her father. Through this beloved pastime she realized one’s sense of sound can in uence the other senses…markedly taste. Mooney prefers to tap into all of her senses to truly experience the world and add to her knowledge of it. She absorbs life using each of her senses and not just those famous ve we are all so familiar with.

This practice of being fully present inspired her to create a concept for vinyl and wine dinners where she provides an immersive wine experience while prioritizing communities not historically invited into the wine space. Cierra began by curating a wine tasting and food pairing menu based around one of her many vinyl records and initiated an event at The Kitchen by Cooking with Que in Detroit. And thus, Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes was born. Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes invites guests to feel the music through the glass and taste the glass through the music in addition to reveling in community, discussion, and of course expertly prepared cuisine. Mooney works to create this experience by blending the senses together, as a winemaker blends wines inspired by the current vintage. Mooney curates the theme of these dinners and tastings inspired by the current vibe. Like wine, Vinyl, Vino, and Vibe events are all about structure, balance, and nish. They are organized by a theme, a menu, and a schedule. They are serious but fun, and they leave you wanting more.

Interview Why is it important for you to connect wine to the senses through the experience of music and food?

I believe in using universal pleasures like food and music to help better understand the complexity of wine. I found that folks are interested in understanding wine but they're intimidated because it's just so much information. I used to work wine tasting events while living in DC. I would watch how the attendees took to the information…but more notable how they didn’t. In most cases, they’d get a glazed look as they try to grasp and understand what the hell the sommelier was saying. When I started Vinyl Vino and Vibes (VVV) I wanted to start from the basic fundamental level. And I wanted it to be fun! Using food and music as a conduit into wine just made sense to me. With sense came the senses. Applying music and food to help better understand the concept of wine just came naturally. If this particular wine was a song here’s what it would sound like. If we pair it with this particular food this is what it would taste like and so on. I love the moment when I see an attendee’s eyes get slightly big like a neural pathway was just created in their brain. When I see that I know I just planted a dope seed.

How have wine and experiences with wine shaped you personally?

Wine has allowed me to get a sneak peek into other cultures. I was introduced to old-world wines when I spent a few months in Europe. While there I got to hang with the locals and learn about their wines. At the time, I was pretty set on drinking my Barefoot

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Expanding the audiences of wine is helping to secure a new foundation for the wine industry as purchasing patterns and demands are

Moscato and Sutter Home White Zinfandel. But my longtime friend who lived there insisted I open my mind. So I tried some of the wines. Once I got back to the states I picked up a job working at a wine bar. My wine knowledge was still very minimal but luckily they were willing to work with me. Over four years my wine knowledge expanded greatly. I learned why wine was created, how to properly hold a glass, and the di erence between the old world versus the new world.

Which audience(s) are you most passionate about reaching through Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes?

VVV is for everyone but I'm adamant about reaching the African American community. I feel Black people should have more access to experiences such as this as a way to increase their knowledge of wine. We are intentionally working our way out of hundreds of years of mental conditioning and generational trauma, and with that we sometimes struggle with subconsciously feeling like we don’t belong in particular spaces. I still struggle with that at times myself. I would like people to embrace all types of wines and not dismiss it because it’s not sweet enough. I believe by understanding the story and the proper approach to a glass of wine, everyone would have a more complete experience.

What do you see for Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes going forward?

Oh, I see so much! Currently, I am building a social media presence via an online community which anyone can follow along with on Instagram at @vinylvinoandvibes. I want VVV to be something that one can escape to and vibe to outside of our actual events, even if it's just for 30 seconds while scrolling. I would love it to be an outlet where people can nd ways to create their vibe by mentioning restaurants, various wines, and di erent artists. Also, I plan to continue creating and hosting VVV events around the city as much as possible at various venues to spread wine knowledge and the vibe.

How will you be incorporating Michigan wines into Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes?

I’d love to partner with some Michigan-based wine companies. What better way to teach Michiganders about wine than using a Michigan Wine brand to do it? That will help people nd a common ground. The Michigan Wine Collaborative is helping to do just that by facilitating communication between Michigan wineries and myself as I plan the upcoming VVV events. We are working towards sourcing Michigan wine producers as partners and creating an event calendar with a Michigan wine theme to present to our metro Detroit area guests. Once I have the venues, producers, and menus set we will announce our upcoming events for the summer.

What’s your favorite way to pair wine and food?

Food is my love language! I love sticking to the classics. A beautiful cheese and charcuterie board is EVERYTHING to me. Paired with a nice full-bodied, jammy red with chewy tannins, like a Michigan Marquette or an Italian Primitivo or even a light and fruity white wine like the newly released collaboration wine from Chateau Chantal and Drew Ryan Wines, The DREAM! The creamy cheese and salty meats bring out the amazing fruit notes of both styles of wine.

What’s your favorite or one of your favorite vinyl and wine pairing?

One of my favorite pairings is Sade’s Diamond Life with a bottle of Rosé. The album is nostalgic for me. I remember hearing Smooth Operator during summer backyard barbecues when the sun was setting. Rosé pairs perfectly with that feel. Wonderful light, crispy fruit-forward expression on the palate. Notes of ripe strawberries, tart raspberries, with a slight sweet or tart nish.

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Tamela Todd T&T Sip n Read Bookbar As we consider the senses, let's switch gears from stacking the sense of sound and taste to stacking the senses of sight and taste with Tamela Todd who is in the nal stages of constructing a wine bar and bookshop in Detroit. An incredible champion and advocate of mental health, an author, a non pro t leader, Spirit of Detroit award winner, and now the owner of the city’s newest self proclaimed ‘wine-brary’ or wine library, Todd is working to create a cozy and inclusive space to enjoy some of the most classic luxuries of life, books, wine, co ee, and of course fellowship. The ‘wine-brary’ is made possible through the coveted Motor City Match Grant program which provides funding for new and expanding businesses within Detroit’s commercial corridors. Plans for T&T Sip n Read include a wine list exclusively featuring Michigan wines, cozy spots to curl up with a book, community event o erings including wine tastings and author events, book clubs, and more.

Interview How did you come up with the idea for T&T Sip n Read Bookbar?

The idea for Sip n Read came from my love of books, co ee and wine. As a published author I thought we needed a concept using the love of books and wine to encourage fellowship and networking in a comfortable, relaxing atmosphere. This will be Detroit's 1st ‘Wine-brary’. Sip n Read will di erentiate itself by putting a twist on an old classic, using the love of books and wine. Our vision is to be a one-stop shop that creates the perfect blend of books, fellowship, and fun. I have always enjoyed reading and there is nothing better than pairing a book with a glass of wine. With this in mind, I'm creating a unique wine and book monthly or quarterly membership package for our customers.

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Why is the location of the bookbar in Detroit important?

I was born and raised in the city of Detroit, and there is no better place to open, or start my business. I want my community to have access to books within walking distance along with a cozy place to enjoy their favorite adult beverages.

How have your life experiences brought you to being passionate about wine?

When I think of wine I think of an elegant, classy, and relaxing adult beverage. Wine can be consumed at a dinner party, an evening event, dinner at home, or just to relax after a long day of work. Recommending a revered read to your coworkers or a new wine like one of my go-tos, Michcato sweet white by St. Julian, is a great way to make an impression on your colleagues or unfamiliar acquaintances.

What kinds of events or experiences are you most excited to o er at T&T Sip n Read Bookbar?

We will o er community events, adult book clubs, wine clubs, books & brunch, credit & co ee, tea & journal along with indie and celebrity book launches.

How will Michigan wines be incorporated into the space?

We plan to only carry Michigan wine at this time.

What is a book and wine pairing that our readers should experience?

I would recommend your favorite romance novel paired with your favorite sweet wine. One of my favorite romance books is Before We Were Strangers: A Love Story – by Renée Carlino which pairs beautifully with Detroit White by St. Julian Winery.

Cierra Mooney and Tamela Todd are working to pioneer new ways for the community to enjoy and connect with wine in the city of Detroit. Using music and literature as ways to connect the senses to wine will serve to attract new consumers to wine through innovative events, outreach, and fellowship. The goal of making wine more accessible and approachable has been a focus in wine for some time. Black, Women founded projects such as Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes and T&T Sip n Read are two exciting examples of how the industry is closing the gap between the exclusive aura that wine has cultivated in the past and the idea that wine is for everyone.

Michigan is a leader in the wave of wine accessibility and Detroit could be the next frontier of bringing Michigan wine to a whole new audience.

Make sure to follow Vinyl, Vino, and Vibes and T&T Sip n Read on social media for news on events and exciting content on how you can pair your favorite Michigan wines with tunes and books to t your vibe. @vinylvinoandvibes @sipnreadbookbar

Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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Chill Hill

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By Jessica Zimmer hill Hill Winery in Baroda has become one of southwest

Michigan’s favorite venues to relax, enjoy live music, and enjoy

cherry wine, Cranberry Blanc, a sparkling cranberry wine, and Raspberry Blanc, a sparkling raspberry wine.

wines ranging from Dry Riesling to Catawba. The Lake Michigan Shore American Viticultural Area (AVA) winery, which opened in

“We grow over 36 varieties of wine grapes. Going forward, I’m

June 2019, is a grandmother-granddaughter operation headed

open to creating new wines using my Associate of Applied

by co-founders Norma and Ashley Nitz.

Science in wine and viticulture technology from Lake Michigan College. This summer, Chill Hill Winery will be a wonderful venue

“Our wines include Big Chill Red, a red blend with aromas of

to spend time with neighbors and out of town visitors,” said Nitz.

mocha and dried cherries, Sweet Riesling, with aromas of peach and honeysuckle, and Meritage, crafted from Cabernet Franc

Chill Hill’s tasting room is located along First Street in Baroda. The

wine grapes, with a rich oaky body and hints of dark chocolate

winery sets up a stage and tiki hut tables in the one-way alley

and pepper. Guests can spend time in our indoor bar or our

next to the tasting room. In early summer, the Nitzs will open

outdoor seating when we hold alley events. We provide ve

their barn on Hollywood Road to guests. The location is close to

tastings for $14. We also o er tropical cocktails, hard ciders

14 other wineries in a nine-mile stretch on the Lake Michigan

made from Michigan apples, and seasonal slushies,” said Ashley.

Shore Wine Trail.

Chill Hill makes ice wine and fruit wines as well. These include

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Road to Hinchman Road has become ‘Magni cent Mile,’ ” said

Growing runs in the family

Nitz.

The Nitz family has grown crops locally for seven generations.

Chill Hill started out with a guest winemaker. It currently has a “My family comes from northern Germany near the Baltic Sea.

proud partnership with Nancie Oxley, who is also the

They started out farming table grapes and raspberries and

winemaker for St. Julian Winery & Distillery in Paw Paw. Chill

raising pigs. The legend is that in the late 1800s, two Nitz

Hill’s top selling wines are its sweetest ones.

brothers moved to Berrien Springs and started acquiring land “Everyone loves the sparkling raspberry, peach, and cherry

here,” said Nitz.

wines. They also like the Sweet Riesling. Our cherries come Over the years, the Nitz family accumulated a large puzzle of

from Traverse City. We grow the Vidal blanc grapes for the

patches comprising 382 acres. They used these to grow

cranberry and raspberry wines,” said Nitz.

soybeans and raise pigs. They also grew juice grapes, which they sold to Welch’s.

This year, the Nitzs will spotlight Chill Hill’s drier wines.

In 1970, Ashley Nitz’s paternal grandfather, James “Jim” Nitz,

“These include our Chardonnay, which is unoaked with hints

realized that wine grapes would sell for a high price. He and

of white peach and nectarine, and Pinot Gris, with notes of

Dan Nitz, Ashley’s father, removed the juice grape vines and

lime, pear, and apple,” said Nitz.

replanted the land with wine grape vines. Then the two started Arrowhead Vineyards, a commercial growing

Nitz also hopes to make a champagne-style sparkling wine

operation. The Nitzs now sell wine grapes to wineries in

with Riesling grapes from the 2022 harvest.

Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri, Kentucky, Ohio, and Pennsylvania.

How to decorate a barn

“We make wine from about 5 percent of the grapes we grow.

Throughout the winter of 2023, Nitz dreamed of summer. She

We rent tanks from one of the wineries to which we sell. This

spent a considerable amount of time remodeling the

arrangement removed nancial barriers to getting started,”

Hollywood Road barn. Soon she expects to welcome guests.

said Ashley Nitz.

Chill Hill Winery is planning to open a working winery in the vineyards near the barn.

It started with a birthday present At the Baroda tasting room, Chill Hill added a “munchie The playful name for the winery came out of a family trip.

menu.” Dishes include pizzas, a charcuterie board, and “chip

Every year, Dan Nitz takes the family to Florida for vacation.

and dip” combinations like tortilla chips and salsa and pita chips and spinach and artichoke dip. Guests can bring

“When we came back, the Shafer family put a vineyard up for

outside food.

sale. We bought it and my dad came to live on the property.

It’s very calm. There’s a hill with a lone oak tree and a pond

“We hope to get a beer license and o er local and Michigan

near it. That’s why we called the winery ‘Chill Hill,’ ” said Nitz.

beers. We will make our own small batches of beer once the license is approved,” said Nitz.

Over the years, Dan Nitz gave the vineyards new names.

Guests can enjoy a number of special events at the Baroda “For example, a large tract of vineyard from Lemon Creek

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tasting room.

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“We’re always thinking of new ideas to o er guests amazing experiences without traveling far. So far, these have included comedy shows, a wine and facials event, and a cookie decorating class,” said Nitz.

This year, Chill Hill Winery started a wine club. Guests can ask a sta member for details during their next visit.

The most important thing Nitz has learned from opening Chill Hill is good wine comes down to the grower.

“It starts with the soil. If you take care of that and you take pride in the fruit, your crops will turn out right,” said Nitz.

She adds that running a successful winery requires being a people person.

“That’s why I love working behind the bar. I like being able to meet new guests and bond with the sta . When everyone’s in a good mood, you feel you’re among friends,” said Nitz.

Nitz hopes to bring those pleasant feelings to the new location on Hollywood Road.

“To all of our guests, here’s your invitation. Bring your friends and family to come see us this summer,” said Nitz.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California.

She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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FOUR IMMUTABLE LAWS

By Jack Costa

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y rst meeting with Professor Robert Harrington began when I entered his o ce and found him with a bowl of cheese and

a smoke gun. Turns out, this was a characteristic scenario; I soon discovered Robert was a food and wine guru that loved to experiment with a variety of elaborate and creative pairings.

In fact, his professional reputation resided mostly on the topic of food and wine pairing; he had even written a book on the subject. At the time, I was indi erent to the concept of combining wine and food (yes, gasp). In my defense, pairing the college budget staple of Top Ramen with a $100 bottle of Stags Leap might be sacrilegious.

During those college years, however, Robert (or Bob as we called him occasionally) began to slowly transform my perspective, showing me pairing food with wine was as important as drinking wine itself. Not only that - Bob also taught me how easy it really was. Unfortunately, many folks view pairing as tremendously di cult, intimidating even, believing it requires a certain degree of skill and expertise. I wish to dispel this myth and provide my four immutable laws of food and wine pairing (with four Michigan themed food pairings).

Pair wine and food of the same culture.

It may be no surprise that a rich German sausage will make a harmonious combination with a Mosel Riesling. The acidity of the Riesling in contrast with the sausage will provide an energizing nish by cleansing your palate of the grease. Another example Continued on next page

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might be Tempranillo with Spanish paella, pasta and Italian Sangiovese, or even Greek Samos with baklava. This is perhaps the rst and easiest rule to follow when looking to pair particular wines with a food. Generally speaking, foods and wines of the same cultures evolved within the same historical and cultural context and as such, are naturally compatible with one another.

Pairing Suggestion – Bonobo Blanc de Blancs with Better Made Potato Chips Pair like with like Integrating the avors of both wine and food is about maintaining equilibrium. A sweet wine will pair very well with a sweet food. Likewise, an acidic wine will accompany nicely to the acidic ingredients of a dish. The key to successfully pairing “like with like” however, requires the taste of a wine to be equal or more pronounced in ‘weightiness’ than the food. The dish ingredients should never be sweeter or more acidic than what you’re drinking, since such an imbalance can produce a series of bitter, mouthpuckering avors that will re ect poorly on the wine. You could pair an acid driven Sauvignon blanc with a salad drizzled with a light vinegar-based dressing. You could also pair a creamy Chardonnay with buttery popcorn or chocolate cake with Port. In a nutshell, the avor in wine and its ‘weight’ should be equal to, or more intense, than the ‘weight’ and intensity of the dish.

Pairing Suggestion - St. Julian Port with Mackinac Island Fudge Pair Tannic Wines with Protein Rich Food Any wine with su cient tannin concentration will make an ideal marriage with a protein rich steak swelling with oils, juice, and fat. Why? I’m glad you asked. Due to the polarizing properties of both tannins and protein, mixing them will elicit a reaction causing them to bind. This can further be

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illustrated when our mouths become dry after drinking a rm red wine: our protein rich saliva has been sucked up by the tannin. Tannin also plays a secondary role by helping to tenderize the meat. In fact, some recipes call for marinating a steak overnight in several cups of red wine or highly tannic tea to soften the beef.

Pairing Suggestion – French Valley Cabernet Franc with Cornish Pasties Pair Acidic Wines with Sweet, Salty and Savory Food Deep Fried Chicken and Tempranillo probably won’t mesh because tannins and salt occasionally con ict by yielding bitter tastes. However, an acid driven Gruner Veltliner will knit fantastically with the grease and salt. A bacon wrapped date with a crisp, cool climate Syrah is another example. The savory and fatty bacon, with a touch of sweetness from the date, is balanced with the thread of acidity that drives the wine’s refreshing taste.

Pairing Suggestion – Black Star Farms Arcturos Dry Riesling with Detroit Pizza Perhaps all this talk of cornish pasties, steak, and popcorn has you anxious to put down this magazine and start browsing your pantry for some delectable assortment of ingredients for your next meal. The importance of pairing is learning how to achieve synergy of wine and food, making them better together than apart. This always requires experimentation, not just reading. So, what are you waiting for? Pop a cork and get tasting!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jack is a writer, producer and content creator. At the age of 17, the Oregon native began studying winemaking under Stephen Reustle. Jack’s work has been featured in several publications, including Wine Folly and the American Wine Society Journal. Find him on the Wine Heretics podcast and at wineheretics.com

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MSU TRAINS NEXT GEN WINEMAKERS

Spartans have long history in wine industry

By Jessica Zimmer

F

or more than 70 years, Michigan State University

Sabbatini is determining how vines grow and what more can

have helped to shape the Michigan

be done to encourage them to produce quality fruit. One of

wine industry. The the numerous MSU alumni working as

the ways to do this is by examining impacts of abiotic stress,

winemakers and viticulture specialists in AVAs throughout

de ned as how non-living factors like soil quality a ect the

the state is a testament to the continued collaboration.

ways that grape vines grow.

“MSU heads up the most established of viticulture training

Sabbatini’s recent projects include one funded by the U.S.

programs for the state. The Northwest Michigan Horticulture

Department of Agriculture-National Institute of Food and

Research Center in Traverse City and the Southwest

Agriculture (NIFA). NIFA is a federal agency within the USDA.

Michigan Research and Extension Center serve a vital

For the past three years, Sabbatini has conducted the project

purpose to growers, connecting them with the latest

in collaboration with Dr. Ilce Medina, assistant professor of

research and data to improve their vine understanding,

biosystems and agricultural engineering at MSU.

professors and sta

health, and quality. In addition, these centers hold events that connect growers with one another, professors, and wine

The two professors are engaging in research at experimental

enthusiasts,” said Emily Dockery, executive director of the

vineyards owned by Brys Estate Vineyard and Winery in

Michigan Wine Collaborative.

Traverse City. The data are revealing how grape vines distribute the products of photosynthesis to di erent organs

MSU’s role was set primarily by its designation as a land-

and tissues in the plants.

grant university, an institution of higher learning that focuses on practical elds like agriculture and engineering. MSU

EFFECTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE

became and remains the land-grant university for Michigan.

Sabbatini has found that climate change has led to more extreme weather events in Michigan, negatively a ecting

In 1914, the Smith-Lever Act started extension programs in

plants’ productivity.

every county across the country. Today, MSU’s extension agriculture programs for fruits and nuts cover juice and wine

“Erratic weather events trigger abiotic stress responses. In

grapes. The e ort to assist wine grape growers owes a debt

response, the plant modi es how it grows. Its changes

to the late Dr. Stanley Howell, professor emeritus of

negatively impact fruit quality at harvest. This reduces the

horticulture at MSU. Howell established the university’s

quality of the wine,” said Sabbatini.

viticulture and enology program in the 1970s. His passion was determining which varieties grow best in Michigan’s

Sabbatini said his ultimate goal is to solve problems that

climate and honing cultivation practices to help them thrive.

a ect the entire plant. Then he can make suggestions to optimize vine productivity and quality.

The current projects of Dr. Paolo Sabbatini, professor of horticulture at MSU, focus on the function of grapevines.

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Another side project that Sabbatini started several years ago

Thomas Orginski, MSU graduate

focuses on making vines more resistant to freezing winter

MSU began o ering fermented beverage classes in 2011 and

temperatures.

introduced the minor in 2013. The minor program carries on the tradition of Dr. Kris Berglund, professor emeritus of chemical

“We’re also working on how to manipulate vines during the

engineering and food science at MSU. He’s considered the

very short growing season from May through October. We

godfather of Michigan’s distilling industry,” said Shriner.

want to make pruning techniques more e cient and speci c for our climate, considering the labor costs,” said

When Shriner came to teach at MSU, she further developed the

Sabbatini.

minor, which had initially been established by Dr. Berglund and Dr. Dave Miller. Miller, an MSU graduate who earned a M.S. in

Since Michigan’s weather patterns shift due to climate

viticulture under Dr. Howell, studied the in uence of rootstock

change, MSU is testing a wide variety of wine grapes.

on grapevine cold hardiness. Miller is now the owner of White Pine Winery in St. Joseph, Michigan.

“Every variety has di erent clones that respond di erently to climate change and viticultural practices. We’re trying to

“Miller is a former president of the Michigan Wine Collaborative

understand which variety and rootstock combinations thrive

and is aware of what the students need to learn. That’s part of

better in Michigan’s unique soils,” said Sabbatini.

the reason students get such hands-on experience at MSU. They even take home a bottle of wine that they made,” said

Dr. Nicole Shriner, a teaching specialist in MSU’s Department

Shriner.

of Chemical Engineering and Materials Science, mentors students on the winemaking side. Shriner teaches MSU’s

Between 30 and 50 students earn a minor in beverage science

core classes for the minor in beverage science and

and technology every year.

technology. She also directs the fermented beverage analysis lab at MSU.

“The students have to be at least 21 to take classes in this

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program. Between 25 and 35 percent want to go into the alcoholic beverage business. The rest go on to become informed wine enthusiasts. We need a lot more of those to increase the popularity of Michigan wines,” said Shriner.

Shriner is currently talking with Michigan wineries about how to structure internships.

“The time that students could really learn from hands-on experience is late summer and fall, during crush and harvest.

That’s just when they’re headed back to school. We’re looking to set up a co-op type of experience. This would involve training at the winery full-time in fall. The students would not take any other classes,” said Shriner.

Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar Thomas Orginski, a 2017 MSU graduate and the assistant winemaker at Leelanau Cellars in Omena, said he would like to start an internship program between Leelanau Wine

Benton Harbor) because northwest and southwest Michigan

Cellars and MSU that would combine time in the cellar, lab

have di erent growing environments with unique

work, and a harvest.

challenges,” said Nasrollahiazar.

“I think it would be great for MSU students to learn more

About $20,000 from the Michigan Craft Beverage Council

about the hands on work it takes to make wine. That way

and $40,000 from Project GREEEN is targeted speci cally for

they could have a well-rounded understanding of the

MSU Extension’s research on cold hardy varieties. Project

winemaking process. I’d like to see MSU interns start in June

GREEEN is Michigan’s plant agriculture initiative that is a joint

and get to know the cellar well. That would leave them free

e ort between plant-based commodity groups and

to help with the harvest in October, becoming a full-on

businesses and MSU AgBioResearch, MSU Extension, and the

member of the team,” said Orginski.

M ichigan Depar tment of Agriculture and Rural Development.

Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar is the Michigan State University Extension viticulture educator for Northwest Michigan. He

“I joined MSU Extension in July 2020. I’m currently learning

said extension centers reach many growers and winemakers

how to improve outreach programs and strengthen

who did not attend MSU.

partnerships with grape growers who are members of collaboratives like P45,” said Nasrollahiazar.

“The extension centers are a bridge to transfer the knowledge that we gain quickly and easily, through trusted

In his rst two months after MSU changed its travel policies

partnerships and well-known events like the 2023 Northwest

during the COVID-19 pandemic, Nasrollahiazar drove over

Michigan Orchard and Vineyard Show, which we held in

4,000 miles on trips throughout the state. He visited many

mid-January. We need two research centers (The Northwest

growers and winemakers in person.

Michigan Horticulture Research Center in Traverse City and the Southwest Michigan Research and Extension Center in

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“I saw their varieties and how their grapes were doing. I

Extension is currently developing a viticulture curriculum

doubled the attendance for Extension center programs. I invite

for 4-H clubs.

growers and winemakers to email me. It’s hard to visit every winery, especially in fall and winter,” he said.

“MSU Extension sta , the Michigan Wine Collaborative, and wine industry professionals are writing the curriculum

In September 2022, Nasrollahiazar sent out a survey to

together. We hope 4-H clubs can partner with vineyards so

approximately 92 growers and winemakers. One thing he

teens can practice growing and pruning on-site,” said

learned from it was that approximately 41 percent of growers

Sandborn.

and winemakers earned degrees or have work experience in elds other than enology and viticulture.

In 2019, MSU Extension received a $20,000 grant from Project GREEEN for the curriculum.

“For example, we have winemakers who retired from the auto industry. That showed me more than half of professionals in

“We got the money three years ago, but could not start up

wine rely on MSU Extension for information and training,” said

the clubs because of the COVID-19 pandemic. We were

Nasrollahiazar.

granted an extension. In spring 2023, we may start some of the rst chapters. One is likely to be with Pingree Farms in

Brian Hosmer, who completed graduate work in enology and

Detroit,” said Sandborn.

viticulture at MSU in 2006, is the winemaker for Chateau Chantal Winery and Inn in Traverse City. Hosmer is grateful that

Sandborn said the year-round curriculum will cover grape

the Northwest Michigan Horticulture Research Center provides

growing, grape chemistry, canopy management, pest

“us with a place to bring in speakers, from around the country

control, and soil quality.

and around the world, to meet and learn together.”

“Every lesson has a career focus. There are lessons for each “The challenges of in ation, the COVID-19 pandemic, and

season. Youth will spend time in the vineyard throughout

supply chain disruptions reduce the time and opportunities for

the year to see what is happening during all the seasons.

growers to communicate. MSU extensions help bring those

There are activities speci c to the time of year, during the

opportunities back, with events, in-person educational series,

growing season and during dormancy in the vines,” said

and online Zoom meetings,” said Hosmer.

Sandborn.

Dockery said MSU’s administration of the Michigan 4-H

Sandborn added the 4-H clubs will also visit wineries

program for youth will become critical in the next decade. She

throughout their region. This will familiarize students with

said the Michigan Wine Collaborative is working with MSU to

wine industry norms. It will also help them see

develop a steady source of labor for the grape and wine

professionals in action.

industries.

“We’re proud to be part of creating a talent pipeline. We “In addition, MSU’s outreach through 4-H chapters introduces

want young people to see they have chances to

Michigan youths to MSU itself. High school students then see

contribute, in the vineyard, in the cellar, in the marketing

college, particularly viticulture programs at MSU, as an option,”

department, and in the executive o ce,” said Sandborn.

said Dockery.

Dixie Sandborn, the 4-H horticulture specialist at MSU

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learned how to organize hybrid meetings and thereby

— Jessica Zimmer

Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Black Star Farms | NV Sparkling Riesling | Michigan This dynamic dry sparkling wine is gloriously vibrant and nely balanced. Flowing seamlessly through the palate are notes of crisp Granny Smith apples, nectarines, hints of grapefruit, Asian pears, and lemon-lime citrus accents dancing around a spine of ngling acidity. Vivacious from bright start to lingering nish. SRP: $21 | Food pairing: Thai chicken le uce wraps | www.blackstarfarms.com Black Star Farms 2019 Arcturos Cabernet Franc | Michigan The scent of a walk through a eld of black and red berries comes to mind at rst sni . Flavors of red raspberries, blackberries, sweet pipe tobacco, Montmorency cherries, and graphite interlace, supported by approachable tannins.

Smoothly textured and the nish dazzles with a dus ng of bi ersweet chocolate. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Spaghe and meatballs | www.blackstarfarms.com Black Star Farms | 2021 Arcturos Dry Riesling | Michigan Scents of wet stones in a babbling brook clearly speak Riesling. Mul layered and well-structured with a brilliant display of white peaches, nectarines, and McIntosh apples interplaying with a pinch of lemon herbs and a thread of minerality. Lime zest kicks in mid palate through the memorable nish. Approachable now, while promising plenty of years ahead. SRP: $19 | Food pairing: Steamed mussels in a white wine/bu er broth | www.blackstarfarms.com Blustone Vineyards | 2020 “La tude” | Leelanau Peninsula Here is a zesty white blend cra ed of Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Grüner Veltliner. The expressive stone fruit aroma leads to peach pie, passion fruit and star fruit notes interlacing with lively lemon lime accents as it traverses the palate. A pleasing squeeze of orange peeks through on the stylish nish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Pan seared scallops www.blustonevineyard.com Blustone Vineyards 2021 “Blu Secco” | Leelanau Peninsula Scents of aroma c honeysuckle start you o with this crisp sparkling wine cra ed of Glera (primary grape for Prosecco in the Veneto region of Italy) and Pinot Grigio. Tickling the palate are avors of yellow apples, summer nectarines, subtle spice, and Asian pears. Nicely balanced with ideal acidity and the e ervescent nish is perfectly refreshing.

SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Pad Thai | www.blustonevineyard.com St. Julian 2021 Braganini Reserve Mountain Road White Blend | Lake Michigan Shore This energizing blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris delivers a bright citrus and stone fruit aroma that whisks you right into the glass. Enlivening in the mouth with juicy layers of grapefruit, kiwi, stone fruit, Shamrock apples and citrussy accents, and the nish is a pure delight. SRP: $22 Food pairing: Shredded chicken salad www.stjulian.com St. Julian NV Ciao Bolle! | Lake Michigan Shore Here is a refreshing and buoyant bubbly cra ed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Marque e. Fresh red fruit aromas start the party going. This dry sparkling wine unveils fresh strawberries, a splash of blood orange, raspberry coulis, pink grapefruit juice, and a touch of spice frolicking on the palate. Well balanced with a radiant nish. SRP: $16 | Food pairing: Nicoise salad | www.stjulian.com

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Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery 2018 Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula Here’s an engaging Chardonnay with citrus blossom scents wa ing from the glass. Honeycrisp apples, Meyer lemon, roasted almonds, and Comice pears waltz onto the palate in smooth form. Well-integrated barrel spice and a touch of minerality add dimension, and crisp acidity keeps the wine in ne balance through the lingering nale. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Creamy shrimp buca ni pasta | www.bellagowine.com French Valley Vineyard 2017 Merlot | Leelanau Peninsula This beau fully cra ed Merlot opens with aromas of blueberries on the nose. Broadening on the palate are layers of black plum, blueberry pie, fresh tobacco, subtle oak, and brown spices. Well-structured and deeply avored with velvety tannins. Hints of mocha top o the classy package on the extended close. SRP: $48 | Food pairing: Sirloin p roast | www.fvvineyard.com Brys Vineyard & Winery 2021 Estate Reserve O -Dry Riesling | Old Mission Peninsula The expressive aroma of fresh cut peaches and tropical notes is cap va ng. Juicy peaches remain consistent on the spirited palate, joining passion fruit, a thread of minerality, orange blossom, sun-ripened apricots, and bright lemon-lime accents. Exquisitely balanced and vibrant through the persistent nish. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Crab carbonara | www.brysestate.com Brys Vineyard & Winery 2021 Estate Reserve Pinot Gris | Old Mission Peninsula This elegant wine o ers purity of varietal expression. Scents of honeycomb and fresh squeezed citrus lead to layers of nectarines, creamy pears, lemon meringue pie, and a sugges on of ginger supported by crisp acidity.

The texture is sa n smooth as the wine sails to a long-las ng nal sip. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Salmon with lemon dill sauce | www.brysestate.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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St. Julian 2020 Braganini Reserve Syrah | Lake Michigan Shore This deligh ully aroma c wine conveys intense dark berry fruits and spicy notes on the nose. Sumptuous and pleasurable from entry through the palate, which showcases blackberries, black plums, spiciness, fresh tobacco, and oak nuances, with hints of black licorice drops chiming in on the avorsome close. SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Grilled baby back ribs | www.stjulian.com

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Birthstone wine stopper The perfect gift for any Michigan wine. This colorful wine bottle stopper will preserve your wine in style.

Available at https://tinyurl.com/45ve6sak | MSRP: $28

Wine Barrel Watch A timely gift made from French and Austrian oak barrels which are transformed into a wearable work of art for wine lovers. Available at https://tinyurl.com/ mtdhbppf MSRP: $299

Insulated Wine & Cheese Bag Insulated to keep your wine cold and refreshing, this tote will get your drinks (and snacks if you choose) to any function stylishly and at the perfect temperature.

Available at https://tinyurl.com/mwmf72bb MSRP: $59.95

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521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI