Michigan Uncorked Winter 2024

michigan Uncorked

VOL. 6 NO. 4 WINTER 2024

• FIRE AND ICE • THE BOSKY



• THE MAGIC OF PINOT NOIR • FIELD TO VASE • NORTH FARM • BORDEAUX IN MICHIGAN

CONTENTS

www.michiganuncorked.com

4 FIRE AND ICE In 2023, Michigan wineries in the north and southwest experienced a severe winter and early spring with temperature ranges between -5° to 15°.

7 THE BOSKY 4

Like a Phoenix rising from the ashes, a former pioneer vineyard on Leelanau Peninsula has been resurrected by an attorney from Colorado.

8 PINOT NOIR Each Michigan winery crafts a Pinot Noir that represents a different corner of the state. As Pinot Noir is the most planted red grape variety in the state, it can take effort to make this wine stand out.

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13 FIELD TO VASE Two agriculturally based non-profits came together this past September to celebrate harvest and indulge in a locally curated dinner highlighting cut flowers, produce, and wine, all grown in Michigan.

17 NORTH FARM 13

Rich, balanced, expressive…these are all popular terms to describe Michigan wines. These words also suit North Farm located on the Leelanau Peninsula.

21 BORDEAUX IN MICHIGAN What do Bordeaux and Michigan have in common?

Besides latitude, some pretty tasty Bordeaux blends.

21 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Cold-hardy vines in winter fog. Photo credit: Michigan State University

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR “Some say the world will end in re. Some say in ice.” - Robert Frost

T

his growing season began with a warm winter and ended with a warm summer and fall. And while a severe cold snap may

have damaged some vines, the grapes that remained saw stellar growing conditions that will produce one of the best vintages on record. In this issue of MU, Jessica Zimmer examines the vagaries of Mother Nature and how Michigan

winegrowers adapt.

Also, Jessica Zimmer takes a look at Michigan’s Pinot Noirs, which are plentiful, but require patience and careful observation in the vineyard. See what Michigan has to o er from this versatile grape.

Jim Rink writes about a new venture taking place at the location of the former Boskydel Vineyard in Leelanau County. Boskydel was the rst commercial vineyard in northern Michigan, planted in the early 70s. Emily Dockery writes about two agriculturally based non-pro ts that came together this past September to celebrate harvest and indulge in a locally curated dinner highlighting cut owers, produce, and wine, all grown in Michigan. Emily Dockery also features a farm in northern Michigan that grows organic grapes for Bel Lago and French Valley — North Farm.

What do Bordeaux and Northern Michigan have in common? Besides latitude, some very nice Bordeaux-style blends. M Marchak has all the details And, as always, our in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, M Marchak and Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked

Vol. 6 No.4 Fall 2024

Copyright © 2024 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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FIRE AND ICE

A Michigan vineyard in the winter sun. Photo credit: Michigan State University

I

by Jessica Zimmer

by Jessica Zimmer

n 2023, Michigan wineries in the north and southwest experienced a severe winter and early spring with

temperature ranges between -5° to 15°. This will lead to a lower harvest due to severe cold and frost injury to the grapes for vinifera and hybrid varieties. Since wineries will have less fruit to work with in 2024 than they did in 2023, some wineries may make more blends and purchase grapes from less a ected areas.

Southwest Michigan growers experienced damages in early bud break varieties such as Marechal Foch and juice grapes, including Niagara and Concord, said Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar, viticulture extension educator for Michigan State University (MSU) Extension. He added wineries should implement proper vineyard management and timely interventions in 2025 if the winter is harsh or unpredictable.

Despite the lows, last year’s winter was still one of the warmest on record for the Great Lakes. Dr. Paolo Sabbatini, Continued on next page

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warming for the last 30 years. The region has now seen records of high temperatures for consecutive years.

“It’s not like Michigan will turn into Florida tomorrow. Also not every year going forward will be the warmest on record. Yet between six and eight of the top ten warmest winters have occurred in the past 20 years. The winters of 2013 and 2014 were anomalous because they were incredibly cold,” said Matt Zika, warning coordination meteorologist for the National Weather Service (NWS) o ce in Marquette.

The hardest times of the year The most problematic times for wine grape growers are usually winter and early spring. In winter, the concern is caused by the polar vortex events. These involve areas of low pressure with swirling cold air. This chill is unpredictable in size, temperature, and movement. Cold can damage and weaken the vine trunk, leaving it vulnerable to decay diseases.

In early spring, the issue is spring frost. Frost damages vines so they produce less fruit and fruit of lower quality. The NWS helps by getting information about low temperatures out to MSU Extension, which then provides it to growers to help them prepare.

Cultivars like Seyval Blanc and Traminette that are cold-hardy in winter are typically more susceptible to cold damage in the spring. The reverse is also true. Cultivars like Pinot Noir and Riesling fare better in the spring.

“Thus, grape growers can choose very cold-hardy cultivars for areas with harsh winters far away from the lake e ect. They can choose late budbreaking varieties for sites prone to spring frost. There is a di erence of up to 10° between cultivars in winter cold resistance. There are about three weeks of di erence between early and late bud-breaking varieties,” said Sabbatini.

It remains unclear what conditions Michigan will experience this winter.

“It’s obvious from the anomalies that the extremes are more extreme than they used to be. In both the north and southwest, we’re likely to see earlier owering as well as freezes into May. In northern Michigan, the seasonal shift

Photo: National Weather Service Marquette station

means temperatures are typically higher hanging late into the fall,” said Zika.

MSU is helping growers predict weather by collecting a long series of climatological data and plugging it into climate change models. These models work better for the growing season and are less accurate for the winter months, said Sabbatini.

MSU uses data from Michigan, Oregon, and New York to validate and improve the quality of the predictive models. The models predict that between 2024 and 2040, the number of days on which it is extremely hot, de ned as over 89° F, will

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professor in the Department of Horticulture at Michigan State University said this is because Michigan’s climate has been

will increase. The number of growing season degree days, de ned as days with average daily temperatures that allow growth to occur, will also increase. Growing season average temperatures will increase between 2 and 2.5°.

“Precipitation patterns will change but not the amount of total rain. Spring frost events will increase because shorter and more moderate winter temperatures will push for early bud break. (There will be) more spring frost damages in early bud break varieties,” said Sabbatini.

Tactics to address climate change Michigan is taking numerous steps to counter climate change, including receiving federal funding for clean energy initiatives and enacting laws to implement the Michigan Healthy Climate Plan. It is a top ve state for clean energy commitments and the number one state in the Midwest to generate clean energy jobs.

There are in-state events where wine grape growers and other professionals in the agricultural industry can connect with politicians and decision makers about climate change. These include the Michigan Healthy Climate Conference, hosted by the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy, which usually takes place in the spring.

There is also the Michigan Climate Change Summit, hosted by the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor, which typically takes place in the fall.

Growers who attend such events bene t by learning actions that can help them reduce greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019, agriculture and working lands generated 9 percent of Michigan’s total greenhouse gas emissions. One of the primary strategies for wine grape growers to make their operations more climate-smart is supporting regenerative agriculture, which involves regenerating the soil so that it is healthy and fertile. Steps in this work include regenerating topsoil, enhancing soil health, minimizing soil disturbance, and maximizing soil biodiversity, at times by planting di erent types of cover crops.

Another way that growers can prepare for climate change is to nd ways to balance the water and nutrient supply in their vineyards. Both excess and de ciency of water and nutrients can have detrimental e ects on grapes.

MSU Extension frequently provides information and demonstrations to show wine grape growers how to properly irrigate their vines and ensure they get adequate mineral nutrition.

“A proactive approach can help mitigate the negative impacts of water stress and bolster vine resilience in the face of changing climatic conditions,” said Sabbatini.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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THE BOSKY

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by Jim Rink

ike a Phoenix rising from the ashes, a former pioneer vineyard on Leelanau Peninsula has been resurrected by an attorney from

Colorado. Boskydel Vineyard, the rst commercial vineyard in northern Michigan, planted in 1970, was purchased by Alan Fair in the summer of 2020.

“I was hired in November of 2020,” said former vineyard manager Craig Cunningham, who said that the original vineyard was replaced with di erent vinifera vines such as Vidal Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Auxerrois, with an eye toward possibly making sparkling wines and/or ice wines.

Since interviewing Cunningham, other vines have been planted and a building has gone up which is rumored to be a tasting room.

The property is protected against further development by the Leelanau Conservancy, set up while under ownership by Boskydel.

Boskydel was famous for the presence of its curmudgeonly owner, Bernie Rink, who had numerous signs hanging on the winery wall, such as: “We don’t manage by managing, we manage by being here all the time.” Rink was a pioneer in more ways than one; as librarian at Northwestern Michigan College, he established the rst Inuit art sale, which led to a permanent collection there.

It is unclear at this time whether winemaking will take place onsite or at a di erent location. The beautiful view at the top of the hill may be reserved for Fair’s private home. In any event, according to Cunningham, there is talk of naming the vineyard “The Bosky” as an homage to the previous owners.

In my opinion, nothing could be more tting and a little local lore never hurt anyone.

*Painting by Carla Sutton, created for Leland Wine Festival 2009

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MAGICAL MICHIGAN PINOT

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BY JESSICA ZIMMER

ach Michigan winery crafts a Pinot Noir that presents a di erent corner of the state. As Pinot

Noir is the most planted red grape variety in the state, it can take e ort to make this wine stand out.

On the Leelanau Peninsula, Bel Lago grows the majority of its Pinot Noir grapes at their northern Moreno Vineyard. This site has sandy loam soil and a gentle southern slope.

“It’s a high site, which is important for cold air drainage. It’s also a bit warmer during the growing season. We have two other Pinot Noir vineyards at lower, atter sites in similar soils,” said Charles Edson, founder and senior winemaker for Bel Lago Vineyard, Winery & Cidery, north of Cedar.

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Charlie Edson One of the keys to Bel Lago’s distinct avor pro le is the high limestone content in the primary Pinot Noir vineyard.

“Most of our wines have minerality and hints of stoniness. There’s never any problem with texture,” said Edson.

Perfecting Pinot Noir requires patience, leaving it longer in the barrels in some vintages.

“This is a way to concentrate avor and improve texture. You can really see this in our reserve, which is bee er and darker, a highly fruit-driven red,” said Edson.

Concentrating avor, with the help of a good growing season Just a short distance away in Omena, Leelanau Cellars restricts tonnage to avoid a watered-down quality.

Marcel Lenz, vineyard manager for Leelanau Cellars, said he keeps tonnage between 2 ¼ and 2 ½ tons per acre, pruning Pinot Noir like a normal Vinifera.

The team then thins the vines to one cluster per shoot. Then more of the vines’ resources go into the remaining grapes.

“Another way we make the wine stand out is by building on soil biology. We try to build the soil by planting di erent cover crops that grow between the rows of vines. In the spring, we plant red clover, yellow blossom sweet clover, and oats. In the summer, we try to seed buckwheat,” said Lenz.

The goal is to grow plants that x nitrogen and excel at breaking up compacted soil. This helps

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vines access nutrients and grow roots deep into the ground.

David Hill, winemaker for Leelanau Cellars, said 2022 will be the rst year it will produce a Pinot Noir red since 2016.

“We’ve noticed light, delicate notes with the grape, making it a great option for a rosé in 2021 and 2022. Between the e orts in the vineyard and the style of winemaking implemented, we are able to produce both a Pinot Noir 2022 and a new Pinot Noir Rosé Bubbly 2023 this summer,” said Hill.

Cornel Olivier

Hill added the Pinot Noir 2022 features a robust presence of cherries and earthy notes.

“We love the way the tannins have gracefully rounded with this vintage, giving it an approachable texture. You can taste the cherries in the Rosé Bubbly, with hints of strawberry and vanilla as well,” said Hill.

Farther south, on the Old Mission Peninsula, wineries are working to protect grapes against warming conditions.

“Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned varietal with a tight cluster. With climate change, we’re starting to get more rain in the fall. We’re guring out how to deal with high humidity,” said Coenraad Stassen, winemaker for Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery in Traverse City.

Stassen said Pinot Noir is the “ballerina” of red wines, meaning it is more delicate than other reds.

“Having a longer growing season than normal helps. Our Pinot Noir traditionally has a taste of tart cherry with a hint of spiciness. When the weather is cooler, you’ll get more acidity with notes of raspberry and pomegranate,” said Stassen.

He likes to use the technique of opening up the canopy to get optimum sunlight and air ow. This encourages the grapes to warm to full ripeness.

“You want to watch how much you oak the wine because too much tannin will overpower it. We prefer a fruitier style that’s juicy and delicious,” said Stassen.

From stress to bu ers In northwest Michigan, dry farming is key to inducing stress. The irrigation method boosts avor, Continued on next page

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said Cornel Olivier, winemaker and vineyard manager at Bonobo Winery in Traverse City.

“We grow Pinot Noir primarily in mostly clayish soils that stay cooler in the early spring.

Pinot Noir is an earlier ripening cultivar that is very versatile, so we use it for still and sparkling wine. That promotes diversity among our o erings,” said Olivier.

Bonobo’s two currently available Pinot Noirs are the 2021 Pinot Noir, with dark cherry, lavender, and to ee aromas, and the 2021 OV

Jim Lester

Estate Pinot Noir, with notes of dark cherry, mission g, and savory herbs.

“The right techniques, like aging the OV Estate

Pinot Noir in French oak, allow us to bring out the grape’s complexity,” said Olivier.

Over in Pullman, which is in southwestern Michigan, Jim Lester, winemaker and owner of Wyncroft, has been making Pinot Noirs since 1983. ““I was just getting into wine and I harvested some Pinot from a friend's farm. When I was racking the rst Pinot Noir, it smelled like expensive Burgundy,” said Lester.

At that point, Lester contacted Dr. G. Stanley Howell, professor of horticulture at Michigan State University. Howell came down with a group of his students, one of whom was Edson.

“After that, I was encouraged by early Willamette Valley pioneers in Pinot Noir. My rst vineyard was in Buchanan. After I had purchased a second vineyard in 2014 just north of South Haven, that began to be too far to drive,” said Lester.

Now Lester’s vines are three miles from Lake Michigan on moraine hills. These are remnants of wasting glaciers. Lester has a little over an acre of ve di erent Pinot Noir clones that he makes separately and blends later.

“In the warmer years, you’ll see a thicker skin on Pinot Noir. It can be more tannic. It needs additional time in the cellar to mellow,” said Lester.

Wyncroft’s current Pinot Noir, the 2021 LePage Estate Pinot Noir, is a dark garnet ruby with hints of black tea and a somewhat tannic nish.

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“This wine is age-worthy. A well-made Pinot Noir can last ve to seven years, sometimes even a decade,” said Lester.

John Molenhouse is the vineyard manager of Blustone Vineyards farther north, in Lake Leelanau. He said being close to Lake Michigan bene ts his wines.

“The lake acts as a bu er against the coldest temperatures. Most of the vines live through even single digit days. Once in a while we have to regrow the vines from the crown,” said Molenhouse.

Molenhouse prunes at the beginning of April to assess winter kill and attempt to push bud break later.

“The idea is to get past the spring frost, since Michigan can see frost as late as May or even early June.

It's a balancing act between maximizing time for growth and minimizing frost risk,” said Molenhouse.

His next step is to expose the berries to intense sunlight to increase fruit quality and reduce disease.

“As they ripen well into October, you get cherry and raspberry notes. They start out tart, like Montmorency cherry and red raspberries. In our 2021 Pinot Noir, the fruit matured even more. It has hints of dark berries like blackberries,” said Molenhouse.

Before the wines go in the barrel, Blustone's winemaking team knows which barrels to use.

“Some barrels impart vanilla notes. Others make the wine come out fruit-forward or astringent. Each barrel is di erent. We take notes on which barrels would go well with which wines,” said Molenhouse.

Bluestone’s latest Pinot Noir, from 2021, has aromas of blueberry, black pepper, and a hint of tinderbox.

Molenhouse said the combination is interesting and a bit unexpected.

“That’s how it works. Pinot Noir is such a

nicky grape that you always plan your vineyard

management and winemaking process. Yet the wine does what it wants. It’s a rewarding puzzle,” said Molenhouse.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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Field to Vase

by Emily Dockery

T

wo agriculturally based non-pro ts came together this past

September to celebrate harvest and indulge in a locally curated dinner highlighting cut owers, produce, and wine, all grown in Michigan.

Certi ed American Grown’s 2024 Field to Vase Dinner Tour landed back in Michigan for the rst time since 2022.

The 2024 Field to Vase Michigan Dinner was hosted at Creekside Growers in Middleville. This former garden center turned ower farm opened its gates to showcase all things southwest Michigan from the event planning to the owers arrangements, to the expertly prepared meal by Farmhouse Deli of Douglas, and nally paired with Michigan Wine Collaborative member wineries, Modales and Domaine Berrien of Southwest Michigan and bubbles provided by the one and only MAWBY of Leelanau Peninsula.

Camron King, CEO & Ambassador of Certi ed American Grown explains the connection between the organizations and the inclusion of Michigan wine, “Having the opportunity for Certi ed American Grown to collaborate on two events at di erent places in Michigan and partnering with the Michigan Wine Collaborative not only emphasized the importance of farmers supporting and working together, but also further solidi ed that these two products have the opportunity to enhance one another and in turn highlighted di erent wineries from from throughout the state to be able to grow and hopefully elevate the sales potential for sharing and enjoying Michigan. The generosity and support of the participating wineries cannot be thanked widely enough as it truly created a greater special atmosphere in the Field to Vase dinner both this year at Creekside Growers and two years ago at Summer Dreams Farm.”

This is not your ordinary wine dinner. The Field to Vase Dinner provides an entire experience for its guests rooted in local agriculture, food, wine, and more. King describes the intent of the event and its local commitment, “Supporting farmers and promoting agriculture is at the core of what Certi ed American Grown does, speci cally within the cut ower and foliage community domestically. That being said, we do our best to work with local chefs, local designers, local wineries, and

Jake Nivison

other local agricultural products to elevate and enhance the

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experience as well as to highlight the importance of

Family style showed through from the presentation of the

supporting a variety of local producers. It is at our core,

meal to the vibe around the table. For over two hours the

that we feel that communities should support

long table style dinner was abuzz with conversations more

communities and Americans should support Americans,

or less centered around Michigan agriculture, tourism, and

and therefore the opportunity to collaborate and

swooning over the menu and wines.

generously support one another exempli es that.”

This style of event is an epic concept for many reasons.

The occasion kicked o with an in depth VIP tour of the

Agriculture is often an afterthought for many as they eat a

farm. Leading the Creekside Growers tour was owner and

meal. In the hustle and bustle of daily life, where our food

grower, Sue Dykstra. Dykstra provided a history of the

and drink comes from can get lost. Field to Vase provides a

property as well as the journey the team is on to convert

place to be able to sit with the community and focus on

the farm to concentrate fully on orals. Creekside Growers

where each part of the meal comes from, the people

is self proclaimed as a committed part of the “local ower

behind the artistry on the plate and in the glass, and how

movement” in Southwest Michigan and boasts over 3 acres

we can all appreciate each aspect of dining a little more on

of owers, shrubs, and grasses.

a daily basis.

The dinner table was set up in between the sprawling

King tells us, “The Field to Vase Dinner Tour is about

marketplace and the Creekside ower elds. Inside the

bringing people directly on to American ower farms and

marketplace was an array of hors d'oeuvres, infused waters,

to draw deeper connections with where beautiful products

cozy seating areas, and a booth to create your own

are grown and with the farmers and families that are

corsage or

ower crown. As you walked into the

working to bring that beauty to them. In doing so, the goal

marketplace you were greeted with a wine reception that

is to express the importance of supporting American

featured welcome wines from Modales, Domaine Berrien,

grown farmers, and also seek more support for the

and MAWBY. Representatives from the wineries took a mini

advocacy and promotional e orts that are happening

break from the bustle of harvest to educate and excite the

around the country.”

dinner guests about Michigan wine. They gave overviews on everything from wine style,

avor pro le, harvest

updates, food pairings, and more. This introductory experience provided a preview into the wines to be served with the dinner.

Once the guests were seated a family style parade of courses began to ood the table while wines were poured up and down the table. Guests were able to select their own pairings for each dish or request recommendations from the winery representatives seated throughout the crowd. The seating arrangement allowed for guests to engage with wine experts from the wineries, distributors, Beverage Testing Institute, students from Lake Michigan Colleges’ Wine Technology program, and more along with the ower growers, the event planner, a member of the Michigan Department of Agriculture, as well as non pro t Michigan Wine Collaborative.

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the farms tending to grapes, owers, produce, etc. They do

joining local cut owers and local wines was de nitely a

get a great insight on all of the work it takes to bring these

highlight of the event for many. “Like many crops, cut

things from the eld to a table for everyone to enjoy. The

owers and wine grapes are similar in a lot of ways - from

consumer usually only sees the nal product of something

farming in a changing climate to meeting consumer

like the wine they drink or the food they eat, but when they

demands, to educating and increasing the market

can see the work in action and hear about the work it can

opportunities and local support of domestically produced

make all of the di erence in what they purchase next.

products among so many other things as absolutely

That's super important as we continue to be better

critical. Cut owers and foliage just like wine is a luxury

stewards of the land we farm and provide a high quality

product and enhances our everyday lives as well as fosters

product.”

greater beauty during special occasions. Seeking opportunities to collaborate and work together to not

For Michigan wine, collaboration within the industry as well

only address farming practices and issues, but also in

as with neighboring industries is essential. While the local

terms of elevating and enhancing promotion

farm to table movement is successful on many levels, there

partnerships, gives both products a combined and shared

is a disconnect when it comes to highlighting the local

resource pool. Further, promoting and advocating

vine to glass aspect. Ensuring that local wines, namely

collectively, for any kind of American grown product is

Michigan wines, have a place at the table at events like the

absolutely critical to ensure that consumers are constantly

Field to Vase Dinner is a targeted strategy to appeal to a

seeking to support those businesses and families that

captive audience and create an emotional connection with

support their communities.” King explained.

a speci c product.

This sentiment of the importance of collaboration was

“For Modales and Michigan wine in general, there's still a

echoed by the Michigan Wine Collaborative and its

lot of people right in our backyards that have never heard

member wineries who participated. Jamele Favorite,

of us or tried the wines. It's always a great time when you

Marketing Manager at Modales, saw an opportunity with

can change someone's perception of Michigan wine by

Field to Vase to give the dinner guests an insight into how

pouring the wine itself but also by telling the story behind

close we all actually are to the farmers, the land they work

the wines. It was really awesome to see people be amazed

with, and where our sustenance comes from. “I think for

by our wines for the rst time and also see people really

Michigan wine, events like Field to Vase and farm to table

excited to see the growth of Modales from the earlier days

concept events allow a consumer to be part of the

of 2019 when we rst opened. Sharing these moments

philosophy of living o the land. While they may not be in

with other Michigan wineries is always a highlight. Because

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The speci c collaboration incorporated into this event by

of 2019 when we rst opened. Sharing these moments

47,000 people. Marketing not just a product but a career

with other Michigan wineries is always a highlight. Because

option, a tourism outlet, and an agricultural commodity is a

we're all busy trying to change the narrative of Michigan

testament to just how vast an impact over 4,000 acres of

wine in our respective parts of the state, It's a great feeling

Michigan wine grape vineyards and 2.75 million gallons of

when you can do that together in one place!” Favorite

wine made annually in the state can make to boost an

explained. He goes on to say, “Exposure is always a great

industry that contributes over $6 billion of economic

thing. You just never know who's going to attend and

impact. Many of the Michigan wine drinkers understand

“Events like the Field to Vase Dinner Tour are an opportunity for Michigan Wine

to make an impact with local wine supporters.”

who's going to fall in love with your wine. Someone may

the epic nature of the wine in the state…but for those who

frequent a certain wine shop or restaurant at Field to Vase

are unaware, leaning into events like Field to Vase,

and say to you that you should be in said shop or

frequenting local tasting rooms, and requesting more

restaurant. Not only did we just share good Michigan juice

Michigan wines on store shelves and restaurant wine list is

with someone, but it also means that that same juice may

a tangible way for consumers to assist with growing the

be nding its way in a new location and market. It may not

industry and supporting farmers of Michigan wine.

hit the bottom line right away, but having the opportunity

______________________

to put your wine in front of consumers for the rst time or change their minds about Michigan wine is an amazing

Interested in supporting Michigan wine in a bigger way?

thing to see.”

Consider joining the Vintage Michigan Wine Club or donating to the Michigan Wine Collaborative. You can learn

Events like the Field to Vase Dinner Tour are an opportunity

more about both at MichiganWineCollaborative.com

for Michigan wine to make an impact with established local wine supporters and those unfamiliar with the

Featured wineries from the 2024 Field to Vase Dinner sell

potential of the wine industry which is so local to them.

wine online! If you are unable to swing into the tasting

The garnered support goes much further than just

room, visit them online to place an order.

drinking local. It provides support and comradery to farmers, winemakers, tasting room employees, and many

You can learn more about Certi ed American Grown at,

other stakeholders within an industry that supports over

americangrown owers.org.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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NORTH FARM

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by Emily Dockery ich, balanced, expressive…these are all popular

forestry, agriculture, and land development. I’ve had the

terms to describe Michigan wines. These words also suit

chance to see many di erent approaches to sustainable

North Farm located on the Leelanau Peninsula. North Farm

land management—some successful, some not. I’ve always

is a sprawling 180 acre parcel that is home to a wide variety

tried to take the best lessons from those experiences and

of wine grape varieties that include Pinot Gris, Chardonnay,

apply them here at North Farm.”

Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Riesling, and more. Sprawling, vibrant vineyards are in no short supply on the peninsula.

Bringing that curated experience and planting its roots in

However, North Farm stands out from the pack. The land

northern Michigan is a contribution to local agriculture

here is being stewarded with an intense passion for quality,

that is sure to be an example for established farmers and

innovation, and most of all sustainability.

those entering the area looking to continue the growth of sustainable agriculture.

The grapes from North Farm are funneled into wine production at the iconic wineries Bel Lago and French

Inspiration and in uence are two things that are signi cant

Valley. To maintain the integrity and legacy of these

factors in sustainability in a very human way. It’s how we

wineries the doubling down on the philosophy of

drive each other to do better and leave the land better

sustainability from vine to glass is essential. Unironically, Bel

than we found it…carving a path towards continued

Lago, French Valley, and North Farm all fall under the

improvement and appreciation of the land across the state

Harmony Estate designation. A most appropriate name for

of Michigan. Heekin agrees that a sharing of ideas and

the ethos that is infused within each entity.

forming a pool of resources focused on sustainability innovations is a distinct factor in how the team at North

When it comes to the business and lifestyle of

Farm has structured their farming strategy. “ A big in uence

sustainability, there is a pronounced passion and

on how we farm today has been the documentary "The

commitment exuding from the North Farm and Harmony

Biggest Little Farm." It really opened my eyes to how

Estate family. Owner John Heekin re ects “I’ve been

farming can be done in harmony with nature, encouraging

fortunate to spend years working in the land improvement

biodiversity and improving the land without taking more

marketplace, both in the U.S. and globally, focusing on

than we give. That’s a principle we try to follow every day.”

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the glass and all the factors that went into it come together with a complex simplicity. While it’s true that the integral crop on North Farm is grapes, the aspects of caring for the grapes is bene cial in a circular fashion, from the ecosystem on the farm to the microclimate within the vine and on to the glass of the consumer.

“Sustainable farming goes beyond environmental responsibility—it directly enhances the wines. We practice wild farming, where bene cial insects balance the ecosystem, and we encourage birds of prey to control pests naturally. Our Scottish Highlanders regenerate the soil, while chickens eat

y larvae, contributing to a

healthier farm. Additionally, bat and bluebird houses o er natural pest control, and cover crops between vineyard rows support soil health and pollinators.” Heekin explains.

And while North Farm was already committed to sustainability in a physical and symbolic way, they wanted to make their commitment o cial. To do that certi cation was necessary. Certi cations can take the burden o

a

Sustainability is not just a concept of respecting and

consumer when it comes to self education and awareness

nurturing the land, it is also a consideration when it comes

around an industry and its products. Michigan grape

to cellar operations and pro tability… a certain harmony

growers and wineries rely on a variety of programs and

makes it essential that everything

ows into the other

certi cations to provide assurance to consumers when it

properly…to harmoniously sustain the business as well as

comes to their products. A few popular ones in the state

the land. “Sustainability isn’t just about protecting the

include the SIP Certi cation, MAEAP Certi cation, and the

environment—it’s about improving the land for the long

Great Lakes Sustainable Wine Alliance. Conveniently,

term, and we’ve found that when we work with nature, we

Harmony Estate holds all three of those certi cations.

get better results in the vineyard and ultimately in our wines. We’re still learning as we go, but our goal has always

“Being SIP Certi ed means sustainability is an ongoing

been to make sure the land is healthier and more vibrant

commitment. We constantly improve through team

because of what we do here.” Heekin says.

education, fostering a culture of sustainability in and out of the vineyard. By avoiding harmful chemicals like Roundup,

A touchstone of sustainability is a desire and a drive to

we protect our land, building rich soils and balancing

continue to innovate on how to improve and care for the

ecosystems, resulting in wines that re ect their terroir.

land even better than the vintage before. That drive seeps

Sustainable farming is not only responsible but directly

into the way the land at North Farm is cared for but also

impacts the quality and avor of the wine, o ering a more

how the wines at Bel Lago and French Valley are made, how

enjoyable and meaningful experience for consumers now

they are marketed, and how the people behind those wines

and in the future.” says Heekin.

are supported. All of these factors could be considered a sort of terroir. Especially once the story is told and the glass

People are a huge resource when it comes to sustainability.

is poured that commitment to sustainability shines through

Finding like minded and dedicated team members to

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According to Heekin, “Michigan wine consumers should

establishing and maintaining the integrity within a

be mindful of buying sustainably farmed wine because it

farming program. Caring for the people who are caring for

positively impacts both the environment and the quality

the land is something that Heekin and Harmony Estate

of the wine. At Bel Lago, French Valley, and North Farm, all

nds essential for the land and for the businesses that land

under Harmony Estate, our name re ects our approach: a

supports.

commitment to farming in harmony with nature.

Sustainable farming not only fosters creativity and

Carlee Kolarik is the farm manager at North Farm and has

responsibility, but it also allows the land to thrive, just as it

deep roots to the land she is caring for as well as a deep

enhances the character of our wines. Like locally grown

a ection for the Heekin family, the Harmony brands, and

produce, grapes cultivated through sustainable methods

the culture of Michigan agriculture. Heekin notes that

produce wines with richer, more distinct

Kolarik has been an incredible part of the sustainability

re ecting the balance and care we strive for in everything

e ort on the farm and across the estate. "I've always been

we do at Harmony Estate.” That is an ideology that

involved in farming in some capacity. Growing up, I helped

transcends throughout the Harmony Estate and North

my grandfather on his multi-faceted farm in Southwest

Farm team.

avors—

Michigan. While it wasn’t considered 'SIP Certi ed' back then, it taught me the basics of sustainability. Now at

Kolarik explains, “There’s a big di erence between sipping

North Farm, I apply those lessons to promote sustainable

a sustainably farmed riesling and drinking mass-produced

practices we apply here. At the end of the day, it's about

wine. It’s not just about the quality of the fruit—it’s the

leaving the land in better shape than we found it, and

passion, drive, and commitment that goes into every

that's something I work toward every day.”

bottle. At Harmony Estate, we grow all our own grapes and do it sustainably across all our vineyards. Our vineyard

For an endeavor such as long term sustainability on North

manager, Tomas Moreno, is the second generation of his

Farm and within the wider Michigan wine industry, it’s an

family to care for our vines. He picks the grapes at their

all hands on deck moment. That commitment does not

peak of avor, not when it’s convenient. Our grapes are

stop with the Harmony Estate team. Fueling an awareness

high touch, high care, and high quality—and that makes

amongst Michigan wine consumers is fundamental.

all the di erence.”

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contribute to the work is a signi cant step towards

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Emily Tyra of American Spoon Foods emphasized the

From their sprawling acreage of vinifera and hybrid vines

sense of belonging: “The house and landscape are steeped

to their plots of wild owers to the newly renovated,

in Leelanau’s farming history, and you get to experience

luxurious yet rustic farmhouse. This is a destination that

that in real-time. It feels like staying with dear relatives

should be on every wine lover’s and nature enthusiast’s

who welcome you to stay a while. The graciousness makes

list. When we asked the team at North Farm in one

you feel like you belong.”

sentence what makes the location special to them they

“North Farm creates a simple, yet meaningful experience

that helps visitors connect with nature.”

simply came up with, “Each aspect of North Farm feels

Michelle Vidergar White from 5 Loaves 2 Fish described her

special to us—from the peaceful landscape to the

connection: “It has such a magical vibe. When I'm at North

connection with the land.”

Farm, walking in the vines or the woods, feeding the cows, enjoying the sunrise or sunset, I feel like I can truly relax.”

Kolarik shared: “Whether you’re feeding the cows or walking the vines, you can feel a deep connection to the

These re ections show how North Farm creates a simple,

land. Our commitment to sustainability is woven into

yet meaningful experience that helps visitors connect with

every part of the farm, creating harmony from the ground

nature and enjoy the beauty of life as they experience the

to the glass.”

unique quality behind some of Michigan’s most premium wines. Another term that aptly suits North Farm?

We asked some of their recent guests what makes it

Harmonious.

meaningful to them…

_______________

Alisha Glass Childress, setter for the Vegas Thrill of the Pro

The Vineyard Farm House at North Farm is available to

Volleyball Federation, shared, “The whole experience at the

reserve and sleeps up to 14. Amenities o ered include a

farm requires that you slow down, connect with nature...

full chef’s kitchen, sunroom, repits, large front porch, and

shing, feeding cows, watching a sunset from a hill full of

a downstairs ‘Cellar Suite’. To learn more and reserve the

grapevines. It felt like paying homage to a simpler,

farm house visit, www.bellagowine.com/stay.

beautiful life.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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A visit to North Farm is nothing short of breathtaking.

BORDEAUX IN MICHIGAN

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BY M MARCHAK

hat do Bordeaux (France) and Northern Michigan have in common? Both have wine regions located

on the ubiquitous 45th parallel, the line of latitude that is the midpoint between the Equator and the North Pole. This “parallel e ect” has contributed to the production of fabulous wines in Bordeaux for hundreds of years, coupled with sunlight exposure, warm weather, maritime in uences from the Atlantic, natural drainage, and local terroirs that have brought fame to this region. So how has Michigan embraced this position on or near the 45th parallel? By making wine in the Bordeaux style, of course! Here are some Bordeaux blends found in Michigan: Continued on next page

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Mari Vineyards Old Mission Peninsula 2022 Praefectus 60% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% merlot “Old Mission Peninsula rides the climactic edge of where successful vinifera ripening can occur, and our Praefectus is the result of strategic blending methods undertaken to create a full bodied red here. A title of authority in the ancient Roman Empire, Praefectus is a true leader among Michigan red wines, showcasing the best of our Cabernet grapes.”

Wyncroft Wines Fennville 2021 Wyncroft Shou 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.

“The wine is elegant and voluptuous and an earnest contender for a favorite wine in its vintage. Strong, generous fruit and medium length tannins make for a great table wine to pair with favorite dishes such as grilled lamb or steaks. Harvested: 10/6-10/13/21, Alc. 13.5%, Total acidity .55,, pH 3.45.”

2016 Marland Cabernet Sauvignon 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot “Fashioned after the village wines of Bordeaux, this wine is a rich and satisfying blend of three of the ve red grape varietals permitted in a Bordeaux wine. Vini ed to moderate the tannins, this wine pleases the palate without requiring excessive aging. Black currants, plums, and violets are plush and gulp-able.”

Fenn Valley Fennville Meritage “The name (merit+heritage) was coined by a small group of American winemakers to identify premium handcrafted wines blended from the traditional noble Bordeaux grape varietals. From this the Meritage Association was formed in 1988.”

Left Foot Charley Old Mission Peninsula 2016 Cadia 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot “Merlot is widely recognized around the world; however, few get to taste it in its more austere form because it’s typically made for an overly jammy presentation. Here we grow a traditional style reminiscent of Bordeaux. It has a supple black raspberry presentation with structured tannins, moderate alcohol, and a dark chocolate nish.”

Nathaniel Rose Leelanau Peninsula 2012 Nathaniel Rose Left Bank Abigail's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (3%) “Ethereal, complex, seamlessly integrated bouquet, opulent creamy tannins. Perfectly structured and integrated. Styled after the greatest wines to come out of the left bank of the Garonne river in Bordeaux France.”

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2012 Right Bank Abigail's Vineyard Lake Michigan Shore 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot “Vibrant, aromatic, full bodied with a vast array of avors both woodsy and fruity. Styled after some of the greatest wines to come o the right bank of the Garonne river in Bordeaux France. Bright acidity and rm tannins make it wonderful with dinner and cellarable for decades.”

Dablon Vineyards Lake Michigan Shore 2018 Estate Red Blend 60% Cab Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot “Aromas of raspberry & dark fruit with avors of black cherry, oak & peppercorn. Appellation: Lake Michigan Shore. Aged one year in French Oak barrels as component wines and aged another year as a blend – 2 years total in French Oak barrels.Winemaking Methods: Handpicked grapes, 100% stainless steel fermentation, malolactic fermentation, barrel aged for two years, cold stabilized and ltered.”

Black Star Farms Old Mission Peninsula 2019 Leorie Vineyard 67% Merlot 33% Cabernet Franc “The 2019 vintage of this wine is a testament to the expertise of our winemaking team and the quality of the Leorie vineyard site. Despite the challenges of a wet and cool growing season, the mature vines at Leorie Vineyard a orded us extended hang time, allowing the fruit to ripen fully before harvest. This approachable Bordeaux-style blend o ers aromas of anise, red plum, and black cherry, complemented by hints of vanilla. Medium-bodied with a focused palate, this wine delivers a fruit-driven pro le with soft tannins and avors of wild bramble fruit, currants, and undertones of limestone.”

Brengman Brothers Leelanau Peninsula 2021 Right Bank 70% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot “Behind the blackberry and cassis there are hints of Juniper, black pepper and rose petal. The ligree elegance of the tannins, despite their obvious power, gives the wine a silky, youthful charm, which is hard to resist” 2021 Left Bank 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot “Cabernet Sauvignon is King of the gravel. Fruit that appears to be dried and ripe at the same time, then cigar-box spice, powerful yet nely grained tannins and a broad capacious mouth-feel.”

Peninsula Cellars Old Mission Peninsula 2021 Cabernet Franc/Merlot Reserve “Eucalyptus and violet aromas paired perfectly with avors of baking spice and ripe fruit on the palate.”

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Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Good Harbor Vineyards | Blanc de Noirs | Leelanau Peninsula The expressive fruity aroma draws you into the glass. Bright and oh so refreshing with sun-ripened Bing cherries, fresh strawberry pie, raspberries and a kiss of orange join a thread of minerality and striking acidity exci ng the palate. The nish is vivacious and long-las ng. SRP: $32 | Food pairing: Orange-glazed roasted duck | www.goodharbor.com Good Harbor Vineyards | 2022 Pinot Grigio | Leelanau Peninsula Engaging nose of tree fruits draws you right into the glass. Unwinding brightly onto the palate are notes of Granny Smith apple, fresh chopped lemon herbs, and Juan Canary melon complemented by lively balancing acidity. Remains fresh as it traverses to a lemon-scented nish. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Lemon bu er baked cod www.goodharbor.com Good Harbor Vineyards | 2022 Unoaked Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula An expressive aroma at rst swirl, this fruit driven Chardonnay o ers gorgeous texture and precise balance.

Exhilara ng the palate are layers of Honeycrisp apple, tropical white fruit, and lemon zest joining a thread of minerality and crisp acidity. Focused through the lingering nish. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Creamy chicken alfredo www.goodharbor.com Verterra Winery | 2019 Sparkling Brut | Leelanau Peninsula Here is a divine Brut sparkling wine cra ed in the tradi onal method. It springs forth with a fragrant white oral bouquet. Vibrant and spirited on the palate with notes of McIntosh apples, honeysuckle, fresh baked bread, and a squeeze of Meyer lemon. The persistent stream of ny bubbles carries the wine to a forever las ng nale. SRP: $45 Food pairing: Crab and gouda quiche | www.verterrawinery.com Verterra Winery | 2023 Rosé of Merlot | Leelanau Peninsula This energe c dry Rosé will knock your socks o , star ng with a perfumed aroma of fresh berry fruits. Brilliant clarity and purity prevail, as fresh strawberries, juicy blueberries, clemen ne, hints of peach, citrusy elements and racy acidity sail across the palate. Mouthwatering through the shimmering nish. SRP: $29 | Food pairing: Grilled shrimp over jasmine rice | www.verterrawinery.com Aurora Cellars | 2023 Sauvignon Blanc | Leelanau Peninsula The alluring aroma of lime and fresh summer grasses is a pure delight. Equally compelling on the palate are avors of crisp green apple, fresh sliced kiwi, hints of Oro Blanco grapefruit, minerality, and crushed lemon verbena supported by lovely balancing acidity, and the bright nish is long. SRP: $26 | Food pairing: Goat cheese topped with g jam www.auroracellars.com Aurora Cellars | NV Leora Brut | Leelanau Peninsula This vitalizing sparkling wine, cra ed of 100% Pinot Grigio, leads o with a lemon blossom scented aroma. Tickling the palate are notes of aky apple pastry, honeysuckle, creamy pears, Meyer lemon, a ny stream of bubbles, and brisk acidity. It remains bright and lively beyond the zesty close. SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Cream cheese deviled eggs www.auroracellars.com

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Between the Vines

Aurora Cellars | 2018 Cabernet Franc | Leelanau Peninsula Dark berries and fresh cut herbs on the engaging nose stay well de ned on the layered palate. Boysenberries, black plums, anise, graphite, allspice, nicely integrated French oak, and subtle herb accents interlace with supple tannins, and ideal acidity keeps it well balanced through the savory nale. SRP: $55 | Food pairing: Osso Buco www.auroracellars.com Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2020 Moreno Reserve Pinot Noir | Leelanau Peninsula This beau fully nessed Pinot Noir o ers up cherries and spice on the nose. Black and red cherries, raspberries, allspice, earthiness, balancing acidity, and well-managed French oak nuances create elegance on the palate, and the extended spice- nged nish is lip-smacking. SRP: $38 | Food pairing: Roasted salmon pasta www.bellagowine.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI