MU - Summer 2025

michigan Uncorked

VOL. 7 NO. 2 SUMMER 2025

• WINE COCKTAILS • ANNABELLE ACRES • A NEW “FRONTIER” • WINTER GRAPE REPORT • PA 232 - FUNDING FOR GRAPES • A CHEF’S TABLE

CONTENTS

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4 WINE COCKTAILS Wine cocktails are a lasting trend in Michigan bars and restaurants, and Michigan wines have become an important component for the drinks.

8 ANNABELLE ACRES 4

Annabelle Acres Vineyard & Winery, a new small winery in west central Michigan, will open this May to share small-batch cold-hardy varieties, Cabernet Franc, fruit and maple syrup wines.

11 A NEW “FRONTIER” It can be a challenge for Michigan wineries to compete with national brand incentives and established followings among consumers. One strategy to making that happen is Frontier winemaking events.

16 WINTER GRAPE REPORT 8

Despite the season’s snow, ice and cooler temperatures – a switch from last winter, which was the warmest on record in the U.S., according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration – the weather had been okay for grapes so far.

18 PA 232 - FUNDING FOR GRAPES The Michigan wine industry is exploring implementing a PA 232 program to help increase funding and representation for Michigan wine grape growers.

18

21 A CHEF’S TABLE Drive five hours in the middle of a snowstorm to the upper peninsula of Michigan for a pop-up dinner on Valentine’s Day? You betcha, if the culinary talent for dinner is Michelin-starred chef and award-winning author, Lane Regan.

24 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Michigan Spritzer courtesy of Motor City Mixology

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR “Wine flies when you’re having fun.”

— Unknown

I

n this issue of MU, we have a wide variety of articles, which cover everything from a new winery in the state to possible legislation that would bring badly needed funds to Michigan grape growers. We start out the issue with Jessica Zimmer’s collection of wine cocktails that are refreshing and perfect for summer.

Jessica also writes about a new venture taking place at Annabelle Acres Vineyard & Winery, a small winery in west central Michigan, which will open this May to share small-batch cold-hardy varieties, Cabernet Franc, fruit and maple syrup wines. Emily Dockery serves up two articles — the rst deals with Frontier wine trade events, which are important to help Michigan wineries compete with national brands and establish followings among consumers. The second article talks about PA 232, a program which will hopefully help increase funding and representation for Michigan wine grape growers.

Erin Marie Miller has checked in with the ghost of winter past to reveal the impact of cold weather on this year’s growing season. So far, so good. And, as always, our in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Erin Marie Miller and Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked

Vol. 7 No.2 Spring 2025

Copyright © 2025 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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WINE COCKTAILS

by Jessica Zimmer

W

ine cocktails are a lasting

trend in Michigan bars and restaurants, and Michigan wines have become an important component for the drinks. The key to making a successful wine cocktail is nding the right role for a wine and mixing it in appropriate amounts.

This allows the wine to integrate well with the other ingredients. The task can be tricky because wines vary year to year.

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At The Agitated Grape Bar & Bistro in Davison, owner Angela Hudson doesn’t nd understanding the changes in wines to be a serious challenge. She knows Michigan wines extremely well. Her venue o ers only Michigan-made beverages, from wine and wine cocktails to craft beer and whiskey.

“We added wine cocktails to our menu in late 2018. So we’ve been using Michigan wines for years. Our top-selling wine cocktail is espresso,” said Hudson.

This cocktail uses Silk’s Vanilla Wine, a blend of cream, wine and other

avors. Silk’s wines are made in Temperance.

Hudson said one of her tips is to use Michigan sweet wines like dessert wines and fruit wines instead of simple syrups.

Sweeter beverages tend to blend well.

Over in Grand Rapids, House of Wine co-owner Emily Lynch prepares for making wine cocktails by taking stock of the 70+ Michigan wines she and her father Jim Lynch have on tap.

“We have a full bar, with choices like Bel Lago’s Primavera and Good Harbor Vineyards’ Chardonnay. People often try to create the experience they want with wine by the glass or with a cocktail,” said Lynch. In past summers, Lynch has o ered a frosé. The ingredient list includes forti ed or sweet wine, strawberries and lemon juice.

“This choice is really refreshing. You want to use a wine that’s higher in residual sugar to cut the acidity of the strawberries and lemon,” said Lynch.

Motor City Sangria

The end result should be a cocktail with the taste of the wine,

“These wines are not overly sweet and add some depth

but lacking a sharp punch.

to drinks. Typical ingredients include Aperol, a clear, orange-colored Italian bitter apéritif, teas and balsamic

“You’re looking for balance, just as you would in a glass of

vinaigrettes. Hibiscus tea can add extra sweetness,” said

wine. The goal is to make a tasty, approachable wine cocktail,”

Dickey.

said Lynch.

One of the best parts of the job is tasting Michigan wines A wealth of ingredients

to decide if they will work in cocktails.

In Muskego, Brittney Dickey, owner of Nomad Taphouse,

This experience is new every time because Dickey’s

enjoys creating Riesling and Chardonnay-based spritzes.

business is a mobile, private bartending service.

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“My clients provide all the alcohol for their events, so I always work with di erent choices. For wine cocktails, I like to use more sweet red wine. I want the ones with fruit notes. They are easy to brighten and complement other components in a cocktail,” said Dickey.

Dickey also enjoys working with avored wine blends from Modern Craft Wine in Au Gres. Modern Craft’s product list includes choices like Cucumber Melon, a “light and easy” white wine blend and All Night Red, a red wine made with Chancellor and Chambourcin grapes sourced from the growing regions of St. Julian Winery.

“I also often use wines from Tanglewood Winery in Holland and Warner Vineyards in Paw Paw. Choices like their “Case of Peach,” a semi-sweet peach wine, are a great base for cocktails. In the summer, it’s often too hot for red wine,” said Dickey.

In Detroit, Motor City Mixology, another mobile bartending company, has come to specialize in “red” and“white” wine cocktails. Owner Bill Tsatsos likes to use a Syrah or Merlot to create a red wine cocktail he calls “Motor City Sangria.”

“I add a little tart cherry juice, ginger beer and two dashes of plum bitters. The ginger taste and carbonation make the drink sparkle. I typically pour it on the rocks and garnish it with a sage sprig,” said Tsatsos.

For a white wine cocktail, Tsatsos chooses between a Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.

“The Sauv Blanc is my go-to. I mix it with Vernor’s, a Michigan-made ginger ale, pineapple juice and two dashes of peach bitters. I pour it on the rocks. A peach slice and a sprig of fresh rosemary serve as garnish,” said Tsatsos.

Hudson says tasting local summer fruit is a good reminder of the ingredients and wines that would work well

Espresso Mar ni

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together.

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“In the past, one of my summer favorites has been a blueberry lemon drop. We make it with Mackinaw Trail Winery’s blueberry wine. I also make a pineapple martini with a little shot of their cherry wine. That tastes like a pineapple upside down cake,” said Hudson.

Hudson said even the pros “mix, shake and taste” until they get a combination right.

It helps to develop a relationship with a Michigan winery with wines that add a spark to cocktails.

“Pinot Noir works well in a Long Island Iced Tea, for example. When I visit Dablon Vineyards & Winery in Baroda, I taste the newest Pinot Noirs to get a sense of what’s coming,” said Hudson.

Hudson also enjoys a trip to Dizzy Daisy Winery in Bad Axe. Here she looks for sparkling wines that add lift to her cocktails. Dickey said a guest who enjoys a wine cocktail at an event should ask for recipes.

“I always share my recipes. Before an event, I also do taste testings, where I get creative. Wine cocktails should be playful.

They can include everything from ice wines to brandy, like an Old Fashioned. The idea is to try something new and leave the comfort zone,” said Dickey.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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Annabelle Acres

ANNABELLE ACRES

A

BY JESSICA ZIMMER

nnabelle Acres Vineyard & Winery, a new small winery in west central Michigan, opened this May to share small-

batch cold-hardy varieties, Cabernet Franc, fruit and maple syrup wines. Guests at the on-site tasting room in Hart can enjoy wines made from Aromella, Catawba, Concord, Frontenac Blanc and Frontenac Gris, Itasca, Marquette, Crimson and Petite Pearl, Traminette and Verona grapes. Another attraction is the small café with homemade pastries, breads and sandwiches made by co owners Debbie and Dennis Hintz.

The Hintzs named Annabella Acres after the large, white Annabelle hydrangeas planted along the winery’s back patio.

“I love to garden and we have a pond to sit and look out on as you taste our wines. We’d been dabbling in winemaking for about a dozen years before we decided to welcome guests,” said Debbie Hintz.

Hintz’s recommendations include the 50/50 Aromella and Itasca blend, a dry white wine with aromas of citrus, pineapple and honeysuckle; the rich, avorful Cabernet Franc, which has cherry tones and Marquette, a dry red wine with notes of black cherry, plum and spice.

Hart’s place in Michigan Annabelle Acres is one of only a handful of wineries in the Hintzs’ corner of west central Michigan, which is a leading producer of asparagus. The area is also home to apple, cherry and peach orchards. Hart has mild winters, thanks to the lake e ect from nearby Lake Michigan.

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The Hintzs buy some of their grapes from other growers, including Morgan Vineyard in Coopersville.

“This is why the appellations for our wines are either Oceana County or Michigan Wine. We buy the fruit for our raspberry, blueberry and cherry wines from local orchards,” said Hintz.

The Hintzs grow 1 ½ acres of cold-hardy grapes and Cabernet Franc, Catawba and Concord grapes on their farm. The coldhardy and Cab Franc vines are two to four years old, while the Catawba and Concord vines are historic. The Hintzs make their wines by hand.

“First we crush and de-stem the grapes.

Then we use a big bladder press to press the juice. We ferment and age the wines in one of our buildings, which we converted into a production facility,” said Hintz.

The Hintzs are particularly well-versed in making Catawba Rosé and Sweet Concord.

The intricacies of maple syrup wine The Hintzs make a dry, lightly oaked maple syrup and a sweet maple syrup wine from locally sourced syrup.

“There’s a “sugar bush” close to us where we buy a 40 gallon barrel of maple syrup at a time. We’ve been making maple syrup wine for a few years. We start in early October. It takes four to ve months to develop the wines,” said Hintz.

Making maple syrup wine requires racking several times until the wine becomes clear. These wines pair well with spicy, savory, sweet and creamy foods, such as meats, fruits, nuts and cheeses.

Guests can nd many of these choices at the tasting room café, like Debbie’s cheddar jalapeño, cranberry nut and sourdough breads.

“I’m the family baker, so I’ve got plenty of practice. I also o er scones and co ee cake regularly,” said Hintz.

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Other options on the menu include charcuterie boards and chocolates. In addition, the Hintzs o er regular co ee and four-sampler co ee ights with specialty cold brews like lavender and honey.

The Hintzs’ story The Hintzs were inspired to take up winemaking after making it their hobby. They have long been wine enthusiasts and are familiar with wineries around Michigan.

“We contacted many of the places we had been to for advice. Everybody in the industry has been very kind to us and shared their tips,” said Hintz.

The Hintzs moved to Hart in 2007. Debbie Hintz currently serves as the Chief Information O cer at Grand Rapids Community College, while Dennis Hintz is the pastor at Elbridge Community Church in Hart.

“A dear friend from the church assisted us with creating the architectural plans for the tasting room, which we broke ground on in September. It’s amazing that we were able to open right before Mother’s Day,” said Hintz.

For now, the Hintzs’ stock is very small, around 6,000 bottles. All their wines can be purchased at the tasting room.

Debbie’s advice for individuals who want to start a winery is: “Do it when you’re young.”

‘

“The paperwork process is like peeling an onion. Every time you’re done, there’s another layer,” said Hintz. She added winemaker-owners need time for reading.

Everybody in the Industry has been very kind and shared their tips.

“Every minute I’m not planning and reviewing forms, I’m catching up on books and papers about winemaking,” said Hintz.

For more information, visit https://annabelleacreswinery.com/.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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The paperwork process is like peeling an onion.

Every time you’re done, there’s another layer.

A NEW FRONTIER

BY EMILY DOCKERY

It can be a challenge for Michigan wineries to compete

perspectives from the wine buying side of things. These

with national brand’s incentives and established

discussions have the ability to bridge gaps between

followings among consumers. Settling into wine lists at

understanding of Michigan wine styles, terroir, and

restaurants and onto wine shelves at retailers is a huge

sustainability innovations and how wine buyers are

opportunity for local wine producers but it can be

making purchasing decisions as well as forecasting

di cult to solidify those relationships. Finding a

consumer trends. It is essentially an all encompassing

supportive and e ective distributor who will faithfully

program which is condensed into a three to four hour

service local wine brands and create relationships with

time frame.

accounts has long been a struggle within the three tier system in Michigan. Eagle Eye Brands is ipping the script

The informational and engaging panels cover a variety of

on that narrative. Not only is Eagle Eye forming business

topics. The 2025 event began with a brief introduction

relationships with Michigan wineries, but they are also

regarding the “State of the Estate,” followed by a session

providing resources and support to make sure those

which provided an in-depth exploration into Michigan

brands are e ectively represented and have the tools to

Pinot Gris being Michigan’s key varietal. There was a

thrive in the market. One strategy to making that happen

consensus on Pinot Gris being a great cultivar for

is their Frontier Winemaking events.

Michigan but not necessarily a key varietal or brand for the state.

These immersive trade events incorporate a seminar and panel discussion format followed by a traditional trade

Another panel featured a discussion on buying trends for

tasting and networking opportunity for the wine

on and o premise wine buyers. Much of this discussion

producers to engage with wine buyers of retail and

centered around the changing consumer culture of Gen

restaurant establishments. The seminar and panel topics

Z, non-alcoholic options, and stewarding local wines

range from discussions on wine production and wine

properly. The Detroit panel featured Andrey Douthard of

growing from the producer’s side of things to providing

Paramita Sound who brought the subject of accessibility

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Amy Birk

Jason Kynsz

Andrew Backlin

and inclusivity to the oor. Douthard o ers exclusively

viticulture. “The New Green” session was a discussion on

Michigan wine at his wine bar located in Downtown

things from farming sustainably and/or organically,

Detroit and serves a younger and more diverse audience

stewarding the land, Michigan terroir, geological

than many wine bars typically appeal to. The culture of

considerations, and accountability. This panel was

Paramita centers around music and community. For many

heralded by Andrew Backlin of Modales, Doug Olson of

of the guests at Paramita, Michigan wine is their entry

Boathouse Vineyards, Iza Babinska of Folklor Wine &

point. This presents a unique opportunity to them as

Cider, and moderated by Dave Bos of Bos Wine. This

wine consumers in that going forward they will likely

panel was incredibly robust and broad in terms of

compare other wines from more established wine

perspectives, topics, experiences, and opinions. The

regions to Michigan wine vs. the other way around.

wineries on the panel represented three individual and

Establishing Michigan wine as the standard is a unique

distinct AVAs of Michigan including Fennville, Leelanau

strategy to empower both Michigan as a serious wine

Peninsula, and Tip of the Mitt.

producing region and to help new wine drinkers become ambassadors of their local wine region. Douthard also

Following this seminar style event, wine buyers are

highlighted the importance of Michigan wine producers

invited to a casual walk around tasting to learn about

investing actual face-to-face time into their accounts and

brands and wines available through Eagle Eye. This walk

their guests. Making it a priority to spend time with

around tasting event o ers the opportunity for wine

consumers in order to establish a personal connection

buyers to engage and connect with the people behind

and raise awareness about their wineries and the general

the wines. Not only does it o er the opportunity to taste

Michigan wine industry can have a huge return on

and evaluate the wines presented but it is also an outlet

investment in terms of solidifying consumer loyalty and

to generate an emotional connection to Michigan wine.

maintaining placements on wine lists and shelves.

Providing this experiential wine program allows two sides of the industry to connect and collaborate, and

Another panel was focused on sustainability in Michigan

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hopefully in the end sell more Michigan wine.

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Eagle Eye hosted their Frontier Winemaking: Michigan

MU What has the response been from Michigan wine

event in Detroit and Grand Rapids. These two markets are

producers? From the trade?

incredibly attractive regions for local wine to get familiar with and eventually craft consumer connections. Events

JK The response from Michigan wine producers has

like Frontier Winemaking allows Michigan wine to be

been tremendously positive. They’ve appreciated the

understood and appreciated, which has been a barrier for

collaborative spirit of the event, especially since we’ve

achieving retail and restaurant placements.

opened it up to wineries we don’t distribute. It’s a great chance for them to connect directly with the trade and

We wanted to get some perspective from some of the

share their stories in a meaningful way. From the trade—

folks who coordinated and participated in this event. First

retail and restaurant buyers—the feedback has been

we spoke to Jason Knysz, President of Eagle Eye Brands.

equally enthusiastic. Many in the trade like the uniqueness of this event with it being more than just the

Jason Kynsz Questions

traditional walk around tasting and nd value in listening to winemakers interact with each other and the

MU What was the inspiration behind the Frontier

audience on topics that are relevant to our industry. It’s a

Winemaking: Michigan series?

hands-on and interactive experience that builds con dence in Michigan wine and strengthens their

JK The Frontier Winemaking (FWM) Series is a broader

connection to the people behind it.

series that we started about four years ago that generally highlights great winemaking regions around the world

MU What do you see for the future of the series?

that are "o the beaten path". In the past, we have done FWM events featuring places like Croatia and the

JK The 2025 edition was our third annual Frontier

Republic of Georgia. We also have one coming up later

Winemaking Series - Michigan event. It has continued to

this year that focuses on South Africa. However, Michigan

gain momentum each year. We’re incredibly excited

is our marquis event in the series and the only area that

about the future of this event. Our goal is to keep

we feature every year. Featuring an event around

growing the event and continue to attract more people

Michigan every year is driven by our deep-rooted

from the trade that are either already passionate about

commitment to, and overall excitement for, Michigan

Michigan wine or are curious and want to learn more.

wine and a desire to showcase the incredible potential of

Over time, we would also like to expand the number of

our state’s vineyards and incredibly talented winemakers.

participating wineries and winemakers. We look at this as a big tent event and want to grow it to include more

Additionally, my extended family owns about 150 acres of

and more wineries that are making quality Michigan

vineyard and farm land on Old Mission Peninsula. We’ve

wine. In the spirit of keeping the focus on education and

always believed in the quality and uniqueness of what’s

collaboration, we are likely going to build in additional

produced here. We saw an opportunity to create a

time for more Q&A with the winemakers. We had some

platform that not only highlights our own portfolio but

really good discussion and interaction this year between

also brings the Michigan wine community together—

the audience and the panelists, and we would like to

producers, buyers, and even competitors—to elevate

expand on that. We also see potential to bring in more

awareness and appreciation. The name “Frontier” re ects

out-of-state buyers and media to spread the word

Michigan’s pioneering spirit in winemaking, pushing

beyond Michigan. Ultimately, we want to do our small

boundaries in a region that’s still emerging on the

part with this series to be a catalyst for putting Michigan

national stage.

on the map as a world-class winemaking region.

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MU What is the importance of connecting the

MU How do events like this one unify Michigan wine

production side of the wine industry with the hospitality

producers and how does that relate to the rising tide

side of things?

sentiment for the industry?

JK Connecting production and hospitality is essential to

AB Events like this one really helps unify Michigan wine

building a thriving wine culture, especially in a region like

producers because no one can succeed in isolation—

Michigan. In-person events like this bridge that gap by

especially in an emerging wine region like Michigan.

letting winemakers share their passion and expertise

Bringing multiple producers together to showcase the

directly with the people who bring their wines to

diversity of our state’s wines is a huge step in driving the

customers—retailers, restaurateurs, clubs, etc. Including

conversation forward. It’s important for buyers to see

guided tastings with the panels as well as the walk

that Michigan is more than just sweet wines; we have

around tasting portion right after the panels makes it real;

enough variety and quality to ll an entire wine list, from

it turns a story into an experience. That personal

world-class dessert wines to full-bodied reds. As for the

connection fosters trust and excitement, which is critical

“rising tide” sentiment, the more producers who join in

for getting Michigan wines on more shelves and menus.

and start these conversations, the more doors open for

It’s about creating a community where everyone feels

everyone else. By working together as a community—

invested in the success of Michigan wine.

rather than viewing one another purely as competition —we pave the way for broader success and more

From the planning and execution side of things to the

victories across the whole Michigan wine industry.

actual panel participation, we pivoted to Andrew Backlin who moderated panels at Frontier Winemaking Michigan.

MU As Vice President of the MWC, how do you see

He is the winemaker at Modales Wines in Fennville and

events like this developing in the future? Do you see any

also the VP at Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC).

opportunity for MWC to get involved with distributors to appeal to retail and restaurant buyers?

MU What were some major takeaways for Modales from the events in Detroit & Grand Rapids?

AB As Vice President of the MWC, I see future events becoming more focused on educating wine buyers and

AB One of the biggest insights we gained from the

distributors, so they in turn can educate consumers year-

Frontier winemaking events in both Detroit and Grand

round. There’s tremendous opportunity for the MWC to

Rapids is that people in both markets are genuinely

collaborate with distributors. We can work closely with

excited about—and ready to support—premium

them and help them understand about the quality and

Michigan wines. The hesitation we used to see from

variety of Michigan wines, which they can then share

buyers when it came to adding Michigan wines to their

with their retail and restaurant buyers, who in turn will

lists seems to have almost disappeared. Instead, there’s

share it with consumers. This creates a ripple e ect,

been a noticeable shift toward selling not just brands, but

sparking a long-term interest and appreciation for

stories and experiences—and the Michigan wine

Michigan’s wine scene.

community excels at providing exactly that. It also appears there’s a growing recognition that Michigan can produce truly exceptional wines, not just “good for Michigan” but great by any international standard.

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A Frontier winemaking event

The Eagle Eye Brands team and the participating wineries came together through the Frontier Winemaking events in a way that engaged the trade and created emotional connections with wine buyers of Detroit and Grand Rapids. These kinds of collaborations and events could be a tide-turning revolution to incentivize and excite buyers to give new found consideration and respect to Michigan wines. Bridging gaps between wine production and hospitality is essential for emerging wine regions to grow and thrive and to cultivate consumer loyalty and interest. Frontier Winemaking Michigan is a big step in the right direction.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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Winter Grape Report

by Erin Marie Miller

I

t takes more than ripened grapes to produce an excellent bottle

of wine, and winegrowers will often be the rst to admit it.

From terroir and timing to variety and technique, the art and science of cultivating grapes and making wine requires extensive education and meticulous skills that take years to acquire and decades to perfect.

Still, there is one common challenge that even the world’s most advanced grape growers can’t control: the weather. And in Michigan, where winters have been getting warmer for decades, it’s a problem that has taken center stage for researchers in recent years.

“We have 65 years of data from Northwest (Michigan), and it shows the winters getting warmer and warmer within the last 30 years,” said Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar, the viticulture extension educator at Michigan State University’s Grand Traverse County Extension O ce in Traverse City, Michigan.

But while uctuating temperatures might mean more challenges for the state’s winegrowers, including shifting harvest times and less predictable growing conditions, the future isn’t entirely doom and gloom for Michigan’s wine industry – especially on the heels of a cooler winter that, at press time, left MSU’s viticulturalist hopeful about the year’s harvest.

Grape expectations Although it was too early to predict winter’s nal impact on Northwest Michigan’s grapes at press time in March, Nasrollahiazar said that, despite the season’s snow, ice and cooler temperatures – a switch from last winter, which was the warmest on record in the U.S., according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration – the weather had been okay for grapes so far.

After a brief scare over the threat of a polar vortex forming when the East Bay area lost lake e ect in February, Nasrollahiazar seemed hopeful that, like last year, this year’s harvest might produce good fruit.

“As far as we see, we didn't observe any major cold damage up here in the Traverse City area,” Nasrollahiazar said, adding that there was still a possibility of frost in the nal weeks of spring.

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Still, while this winter’s chillier temperatures and elevated

Michigan, collecting precise data about the ways cold

snowfall were a change from last year, Nasrollahiazar

hardiness of grapevines changes during dormant seasons

pointed out that last season’s challenges didn’t spell

and suggesting strategies for enhancing vineyard

disaster for the state’s grapes.

sustainability.

“Last year, 2024, was one of the best vintages (for

“We are creating a model to predict cold hardiness and

Michigan). We accumulated, on average, 400 to 500 more

give some recommendations and updates for growers, to

growing degree days than the average year, which is very

let them know how to mitigate cold damage and, in case

good. And the fruit was amazing,” Nasrollahiazar said,

of cold damage, how they can compensate the damage by

adding that a late-season drought may have also helped

some pruning strategies and so on,” Nasrollahiazar said.

reduce pests and protected the grapes from fungal diseases they’re often susceptible to in damper weather.

Adapting to a changing climate To help winegrowers allay the risks associated with

The impact of unpredictable winters

Michigan’s unpredictable weather, Nasrollahiazar has

For Nasrollahiazar and his team at MSU, understanding

recommended strategies for pruning based on timing,

how temperatures in Michigan a ect grapes is crucial for

severity and canopy density control, as well as drip

helping winegrowers get ahead of the state’s

irrigation, de cit irrigation and water management

ckle

weather.

practices to protect grape production in drought conditions – especially in newly-planted vineyards.

“A warm winter is scary for me because it's not stable at all.

Warm air goes up and interrupts the polar vortex. New

“As long as you have the irrigation system, you’re ne.

polar vortexes always happen, but ve to nine miles above

Otherwise, it will be tough, especially for those vineyards

surface of the earth, if warm (air) goes up and interrupts

that were just planted, because the baby vines are even

the ow of the polar vortex, a jet stream will happen. So,

more susceptible,” Nasrollahiazar said.

the cold (air) will drop to the surface of the earth and can decrease the temperature so dramatically that it’s capable

While Nasrollahiazar pointed out that the state’s changing

of killing the Vitis vinifera grapes and some hybrids,”

winters could create new prospects for the wine industry,

Nasrollahiazar said.

their precariousness still harbors risks.

To understand how to moderate the potential for cold

“Although it’s creating some opportunity because we will

damage in vineyards during frigid or erratic winters,

be able to plant some varieties that we couldn't plant in

Nasrollahiazar spearheaded a cold hardiness project at

the past and we'll have warmer, longer growing seasons,

MSU four years ago. He also conducts weekly

we will have unpredictable winters and frost damage will

eld

observations with colleagues at locations across Northwest

be more (likely),” Nasrollahiazar said.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Erin Marie Miller is a freelance journalist based in Metro Detroit. A lover of all things independent, she has written about small businesses, restaurants, non-profits, the arts and more for publications in Michigan and California since 2014.

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17 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

T

Pa-232 Funding for Grapes

by Emily Dockery

he M ichigan wine industr y is explor ing

However, COVID 19 put the brakes on that as it did many

implementing a PA 232 program to help increase funding

things during the pandemic. The signatures expire after

and representation for Michigan wine grape growers. PA

one year so the entire e ort became virtually null and

232 stands for Public Act 232, or the Agricultural

void.

Commodities Marketing Act. This act bene ts agricultural products by earmarking funds for marketing and research

Now on the other side of the COVID 19 crisis, MWC has

programs for a speci c commodity. In Michigan

once again reignited the e ort. In 2024 the group

blueberries, apples, asparagus and other agricultural

brought the topic back to the table but this time with

commodities currently utilize a PA 232 program to bene t

more information and a clearer timeline and summary of

their industries. Michigan wine growers are seeking to

the process for the industry to consider. By the winter of

explore how a PA 232 might help advance the Michigan

2025 the group had again collected the required number

wine industr y and provide an outlet for more

of signatures and submitted the petition to the Michigan

representation and funding for the industry.

Department of Agriculture and Rural Development. The submission of the petition is far from solidifying an

In 2018 the conversation around a PA 232 for wine grapes

o cial PA 232 resolution for Michigan wine grapes. Once

began gaining momentum. The Michigan Wine

the petition has collected the 25% or 200, whichever is

Collaborative (MWC) started the process of introducing the

less, of producers who would be impacted a workgroup

idea to the industry as a serious consideration to unite

develops and the proposed program goes to a vote of

around. The non pro t organization began raising

the growers followed by public hearings conducted

awareness around the program and started collecting

around the State.

signatures from supporting wine grape growers in 2019, which is the rst step in the process of establishing a PA 232

The PA 232 program collects funds through assessments

in the state of Michigan. By 2020 the organization collected

on wine grape tonnage. An industry board of wine grape

enough signatures to move the initiative forward.

growers would be appointed by the Governor to oversee

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18 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

the funds and how they are spent. A referendum is required

RS Initial e orts to obtain the number of petition

among wine grape growers to determine support for the

signatures to move to the next phase of PA 232 was

program. A majority of 51% of growers representing 51% of

successful. However, several signatures were signed

the wine grape acreage must vote "yes" for the referendum

anonymously. MDARD did not accept these signatures

to pass. The order is then revisited every ve years for

requiring us to revisit the industry. We were able to address

renewal. The

rst step towards a referendum is raising

the industry at two winter meetings, The Northwest

awareness and collecting a required number of signatures

Vineyard and Orchard Show and Southwest Michigan

from wine grape growers throughout the state.

Horticulture Days. We were successful in obtaining more signatures than was necessary to replace the ones rejected

If the referendum passes, a board of wine grape growers

by MDARD.

appointed by the Governor will determine how the funds will be used. For example, the industry might consider

More importantly, we were able to make more industry

using 40% of funds for marketing and promotion of

members aware of PA 232 and our e orts to establish a PA

Michigan wine within Michigan and in the Midwest states.

232 program for wine grape growers. Even though initial

The remaining 60% would be used to support research

e orts via the internet and online solicitation of petition

priorities determined by the industry and education

signatures were successful, there were still wine grape

programs determined most valuable and suitable by the

growers unaware of PA 232 and the importance of PA 232

industry. Each dollar raised can leverage state and federal

for our industry. This leads us to believe that given the ve

funds, adding to the impact of funds collected. While funds

major wine grape growing areas in Michigan, there are

can be allocated to research and Michigan State University

more wine grape growers that need to be contacted and

(MSU) is the primary arm for research in the state, no funds

made aware of the program and its bene ts for wine grape

will be ear-marked for MSU. All potential research partners

growers and the overall wine industries in Michigan. When

including MSU must write proposals addressing priorities

we are able to be in front of industry members, we receive

set by the industry and then be granted funds by the

favorable responses.

Governor-appointed board of wine grape growers.

MU How do you think a potential PA 232 program could The most recent PA 232 campaign backed by the Michigan

bene t the MI wine and grape industries?

Wine Collaborative was spearheaded by leading representatives from the organization’s board of directors

RS PA 232 has tremendous potential to elevate the

and engaged members. Dr. Robert Schutzki of Daddy Long

Michigan Wine and Grape Industry. PA 232 was enacted in

Legs Vineyards was one of the main leaders at the helm of

1965 by the Michigan legislature to provide agricultural

the revival. Schutzki traversed the state in 2024 and 2025 to

commodities within the state an opportunity to identify

attend industry events and conferences in order to present

and direct research, marketing and education programs. It

the PA 232 proposal, answer questions, and collect

is a program for agricultural commodities by agricultural

signatures. This task was executed meticulously and with

producers. It gives the producers an opportunity to

e ciency. We sat down brie y with Schutzki to get some

contribute and direct research, marketing and education

insight into his experience spearheading the initiative.

programs for their bene t. Producers contribute funds via a referendum, identify critical priorities, and solicit grant proposals to address these priorities and award the grants.

Robert Schutzki Questions

Priorities are established with input from the entire MU What was your experience like gathering the remaining

industry. MDARD facilitates the program, guides a

signatures to push the PA 232 forward to the next phase?

Commodity Commission/Committee and distributes

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19 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

funding based on the decisions of the Committee.

of interest as best practices in wine grape growing contribute to better wine.

PA 232 will charge the Michigan Wine and Grape Industry with identifying critically needed research, marketing and

Having representation on the Commission/Committee

education. In addition, grower supported funding will

from each of the ve wine grape regions is also important.

allow the Commission/Committee to leverage these funds

Many wine grape growers are also wineries and we need

for more broad and industry wide programs. Instead of

to have buy-in from wineries who use their own grapes.

waiting for agencies to address our critical needs, we can direct the agencies to address our needs.

Several

The current PA 232 proposal accounts for only wine grapes

Michigan Commodities have instituted PA 232, Apples,

to be assessed, not juice grapes. This guarantees funds will

Asparagus, Blueberries, Carrot, Cherry, Corn, Dairy, Onion,

be solely dedicated to the Michigan wine industry. Wine

Soybean, Tree Fruit, and Wheat. Each have established a

grapes would be assessed based on the price per ton of

Commission/Committee, identi ed a referendum for

grapes. The current recommendation is sales equal to or

assessments that was voted on by the entire commodity

exceeding $1500 per ton would provide $10 per ton to

members, and have operated the granting program for

the program, $751-$1499 would provide $5 per ton to the

the bene t of their commodity.

program, and less than $750 per ton would generate $2.50 per ton.

MU What might be some challenges moving forward with exploring or implementing a PA 232 program for wine

These gures project potential annual funding to total

grapes?

around $75,000; when matched, $150,000 - $200,000 per year. The MWC, Michigan Grape Society, and Parallel 45

RS Moving Forward – making sure, we get in front of all

Vines & Wines are asking growers to consider such a plan

the wine grape growers in the state to solicit their input

to ensure the future growth and success of the Michigan

into the program. Conduct in person Town Halls in the 5

wine industry by establishing a sustainable funding source

major wine regions in the state to get input. PA 232 is an

to meet industry needs. While a successful future for the

agricultural commodity program. Wine grapes are the

industry and this initiative looks bright, the greatest

commodity. Making sure the program addresses wine

challenges will be in addressing key vineyard issues and

grape growers but also includes winery input is essential.

ensuring sustainable recruitment of talent for vineyards

Production practices including cultural inputs, nutrition,

and Michigan wine businesses to thrive. Research,

pest control (insects and diseases), weed suppression,

education, marketing and promotion are also considered

labor, mechanization, and pro tability are potential topics

key cornerstones for future success of the industry.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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20 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

A CHEF’S TABLE

D

BY M MARCHAK & MARCELLA KRUPSKI

rive 5 hours in the middle of a snowstorm to the upper peninsula of Michigan for a pop-up dinner on Valentine’s Day? You

betcha, if the pairing of culinary talent for dinner is Michelin- starred chef and award-winning author, Lane Regan, and sous chef, Carrie Masters!

Coinciding with the thrilling dog sled race known as the UP 200 where mushers compete to qualify for the

Iditarod, the weekend presented a rich and well-paired Northern Michigan experience.

Chef Lane Regan left Chicago for Michigan’s upper peninsula to forage for the bountiful, wild-grown food this remote area has to o er. In the middle of the Upper Peninsula, Chef Lane operates Milkweed Inn, a small, o -the-grid bed-n-breakfast for guests willing to travel to the Hiawatha National Forest for a food enthralled weekend. Foraged foods comprise a large part of those weekend menus. But on this Valentine’s Day, a special 12-course dinner awaited those souls willing to venture out to Harvey, Michigan. The venue for this culinary adventure? A home in a snow covered setting with no discernible human neighbors. You are forewarned to travel in a four-wheel drive vehicle. Sliding up to the entrance, we are greeted with winter libations in a warm and cozy house abuzz with conviviality.

While the 12 courses would require a novella to describe fully, an ode to the menu and the pairing of wines is this short story.

How to start an elegant party in the snow? Caviar, my dear, to kick this party up to the next level. A semolina tart arrived. beautifully lled with chartreuse herb mousse, and topped with buttery osetra caviar. These eggs pop with Champagne, the optimal pairing for this luscious course. The Arquémie No. 7 Blanc de Blancs Champagne from grower/producer Fresne-Ducret is from premier cru vine. With at least 5 years aging on the lees, this blanc de blanc is lush with creaminess and acidity to balance the richness of the caviar. Champagne pairs with most anything, and this thoughtfully-vinted o ering overdelivers with caviar.

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21 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

Next up is a kabocha squash cooked sous vide then seared with apple molasses, followed by the addition of some mushroom garum, wild pine syrup, creamy soft winnimere cheese topped with shaved hazelnuts and crispy prosciutto in a broth puddle of fermented squash and juniper with bay leaf oil. This savory dish with a slight sweetness was paired with an o -dry 2022 Feinherb Riesling from renowned Mosel producer Selbach-Oster. The feinherb style is elusive but the low residual sugar glistens with the natural sweetness of the kabocha squash.

L-R Lane Regan and Carrie Masters

Let’s fry it up!

A fried chickpea panisse with sa ron aioli,

tomato pepper chutney, shaved fennel and celery arrives which is high-end comfort food you didn't know you were craving. This dish is paired with a 2021 Strub Silvaner Trocken from a small estate in the Rheinhessen, Germany, where the Strub family has been making wine since1710. This dry white has a light body balanced by lemon-lime acidity which matches nicely with that savory fried chickpea base. The wine’s herbal aromatics accentuate the sa ron and fennel.

Mushroom tea as the next course? Why, of course! Oh my, this is what is consumed, or consumee’d, in heaven! Sounds simple, but the complex, layered umami avors need no complement other than butter and onions. Known as the chef’s magnum opus, the only w[h]ine you will pair with this is “When can I have more?”

Once you let go of the teacup, the dinner heats up with a Northern Italian style pasta. Homemade spaghetti is wrapped with Parmigiano Reggiano, grated black tru es, rosemary and parsley oil, with lots of fresh-squeezed lemon and grated zest. This course is paired with the 2020 Weingut Friedrich Becker Estate Pinot Noir from the Pfalz region in Germany. The wine reveals lively cherry and pomegranate fruit notes, spices and a foraged mushroom earthiness to enhance the avors of the tru es.

The menu took a sea change to grilled octopus with lemon, potato, and Calabrian chile butter, accompanied by a little brunoise salad. The smoky, rich avors of the octopus called for a pairing of high acidity, citrus avors, and inty minerality.

The 2023

Domaine Daulny Le Clos de Chaudenay Sancerre answered the call to match the brine and citrus of the dish, while complementing the salad. Sourced from forty-year old vines from a single vineyard in the Loire, this Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and sees no malo, for an unexpected dimension.

Had enough? Oh no, not when a plate of smoked Cornish hens seated on parmesan broth polenta appears with a side of simple chicories tossed in Meyer lemon vinaigrette. The smoky meat is paired with Erich Sattler’s 2020 Saint Laurent from Austria which has juicy acidity and a touch more weight than a typical old world Pinot Noir. Saint Laurent, a lesser-known but related grape to Pinot Noir, is one that any Burgundy enthusiast should explore. It enhances the succulent texture of the hen with its vibrant, fruity and layered characteristics.

Just as you think you cannot eat anymore, there’s always room for wagyu! A thankfully small Wagyu beef tenderloin is served with celery root thinly sliced roulade, with a dollop of tart wild blueberry molasses and pike garum. Some moments call for a classic, and here the 2021 Ridge Lytton Springs did just the trick. This old vine, Zinfandel-dominant blend is classically full-bodied and

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22 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

structured for the tender and buttery tenderloin. Both the Wagyu and the wine have a long nish as a pair.

Take dessert home? Good idea but when you see the black cocoa “chaco taco” lled with Kalamata olive ice cream topped with quince and kumquat jam, the doggy bag notion is immediately dispelled. With such diverse avors here, a digestif seemed in order. Chateau D’Orignac’s Pineau Des Charentes is a sweet pairing, made from a two-thirds blend of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and one-third Cognac. It is a small production that takes 10 years to produce due to extensive aging in oak. The amber gold liquid is aromatic with avors of ripe apricots, honey and baking spice, a pleasant accompaniment.

Travelling back, we encountered another winter storm on the ride south to Michigan’s lower peninsula. Memories of this special food and wine event, our cherished valentine, created a memorable soundtrack for the ride home.

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Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2023 Signature Rosé | Old Mission Peninsula Wow, mouthwatering orals on the nose at rst swirl of this stylish dry rosé. A blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 5% Pinot Noir, it energizes the palate as blueberry preserves, raspberry and Sweetheart cherry fruit accented by subtle spice meld in harmony. Brilliantly balanced and exhilara ng through the persistent nal swallow.

SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Sesame shrimp salad | www.brysestate.com Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2023 Pinot Blanc Reserve | Old Mission Peninsula The expressive aroma of spring me apple blossoms is awakening. Deligh ng the palate are harmonious layers of Comice pears, Golden Delicious apples, subtle shades of sliced pineapple, and a touch of lemon herbs. Fresh, bright, and silky in texture with a nish that enraptures like a sublime dream. SRP: $26 | Food pairing: Pan seared striped bass www.brysestate.com Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2021 Pinot Noir | Old Mission Peninsula I am o asked if Michigan o ers noteworthy red wines, and yes, here is one ne example. This sa n smooth, fully avored Pinot Noir opens with an irresis ble aroma. Bing cherries, a twist of mul colored peppercorns, black raspberry coulis, allspice and hints of earth tantalize the palate. Well-managed French oak aging adds further dimension through the memorable nish. SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Creamy mushroom bow e pasta www.brysestate.com Rove Winery | 2023 Fíona Rúnda | Leelanau Peninsula This generously fruited white blend of 50% Riesling, 20% Pinot Blanc, 15% Pinot Gris and 15% Gewürztraminer displays invi ng aromas of white owers and citrus. The palate is vivid and juicy with apricot jam, fresh squeezed lemons, and tropical fruits framed by nice balancing acidity, and the extended nish is oh so refreshing. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Sautéed scallops | www.rovewinery.com Rove Winery | 2021 Cabernet Franc/Merlot | Leelanau Peninsula The dark fruit and earthy nose of this sinewy blend of 55% Cab Franc and 45% Merlot drives you into the glass.

Blossoming on the palate are lush layers of mulberries, blackberries, blueberries, and well-integrated French oak framed by approachable tannins. Silken and nely balanced with a kick of spice on the long nale. SRP: $40 | Food pairing: Roasted lamb sirloin | www.rovewinery.com Blustone Vineyards | 2023 La tude Ar san White Wine | Leelanau Peninsula This savvy blend of Pinot Blanc, Sauv Blanc and Grüner Veltliner leads o with a nose of sun-ripened fruits. Lean, clean, and pure with layers of green apples, bananas, and just cut pineapple slices coa ng the palate. Accents of almond paste and lemon drops add delight, lingering on the sa sfying nish. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Goat cheese stu ed gs | www.blustonevineyards.com Blustone Vineyards | 2022 Winemaker’s Red | Leelanau Peninsula Burs ng with mixed berries on the nose is this nicely balanced red blend. The succulent blackberries, tayberries, and olallieberries meld in harmony. Accents of cinnamon and nutmeg, warm caramel sauce, and well-placed oak spice con nue to wake up the senses. Deep, well-structured, and ne-tuned through the long nish. SRP: $45 | Food pairing: Penne pu anesca | www.blustonevineyards.com

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Between the Vines

Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2023 Moreno Vineyard Auxerrois | Leelanau Peninsula The clean, wildly expressive stone fruit aroma rocks! Well de ned and vivacious with delicious layers of yellow apple, juicy pomelo, and subtle gooseberry elements intertwining with minerality and nges of lemon verbena.

Pure as it gets and well balanced as it dances to a vibrant and upli ing close. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Shrimp and sweet corn empanadas | www.bellagowine.com Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2018 Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula Here is a glistening and lively Chardonnay with well-managed oak si ng perfectly in the background. Striking and well-built with avors of Honeycrisp apple, pear, and a touch of fresh cut herbs wrapped around a thread of minerality. Elegant from start to lingering nish, and it promises con nued enjoyment ahead. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Pan seared sword sh | www.bellagowine.com Bel Lago Vineyards & Winery | 2023 Semi-Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Another brilliant vintage of Bel Lago’s Semi-Dry Riesling that s mulates the senses. Tree fruits and wet stone on the nose remain consistent on the palate. Crunchy Granny Smith apples, minerally notes, hints of earth, and crunchy pears traversing the palate will leave you wan ng more. A pop of lime zest from rst sip through long nish enhances this well-cra ed wine. SRP: 18 | Food pairing: Crab beignets | www.bellagowine.com Two K Farms | 2022 Pinot Gris | Leelanau Peninsula Invi ng aromas of juicy white fruits and a whisper of orality on the nose expand on the palate. Flavors of citrussplashed pears, ripe summer nectarines, and crisp red apples are supported by gentle balancing acidity. Bright and fresh through the pleasing honeysuckle-kissed nish, lovely for a warm, sunny a ernoon. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Rico a cheese strudel | www.twokfarms.com Two K Farms | 2022 Golden Russet Ice Cider | Leelanau Peninsula Liquid Golden Russet apples and tropical fruit in a glass from rst swirl. It is sprightly and con dent with a smooth texture, displaying Golden Russets, pie spices, ripe bananas, honey-laced pineapple slices and a nge of citrus accen ng the sweet fruit. A deligh ully sweet and juicy elixir with a dreamy nish. SRP: $25 | Food pairing: Bananas foster | www.twokfarms.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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Perfect for a summer wine and cheese retreat. Made of solid wicker to make the basket sturdy to safeguard your picnic use for years to come. Size 15.7”x11.8"x7.1" Available at https:// tinyurl.com/bddx2y3f | MSRP: $$56.99

Yeti Wine Chiller The take-anywhere wine cellar. Double-wall vacuum insulation locks in the perfect temp. Silicone landing pad keeps your wine bottle safe without a sound. Fits most wine, bubbly, and bomber bottles. Available at: https:// tinyurl.com/5n86smy9 | MSRP: $70

Dragon ies by Lolita Set your inner sunshine free with this summertime inspired wine glass. Arrives in a beautiful gift box with a unique cocktail recipe painted under the base of the glass. Made from blown glass. 15-ounce capacity. Hand wash only.

Nine inches tall. Available at: https://tinyurl.com/mt8y2vzt MSRP: $29.99

26 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

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◀︎◀︎◀︎

Picnic Basket

521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI