MU - Spring 2025

michigan Uncorked

VOL. 7 NO. 1 SPRING 2025

• SPRING FLING • HARVEST RECAP • GILCHRIST FARM • VERITAS ESTATE • SEND IN THE CLONES (PREQUEL)

CONTENTS

www.michiganuncorked.com

4 SPRING FLING Spring has finally sprung – and with it, the promise of picnics, barbecues and outdoor gatherings with friends and family.

Check out our wine recommendations from local sommeliers.

8 HARVEST RECAP 4

The 2024 Michigan vintage is set to be a historic one. Michigan winegrowers and producers are united in revelry at harvest numbers usually seen in warmer climates.

13 GILCHRIST FARM Gilchrist Farm, a Lake Leelanau winery, plans to release a blend of 60% Teroldego and 40% Lagrein wines in spring 2026. This will be its first offering of wine from northern Italian grapes since owners Marc and Elizabeth Huntoon established the winery in 2018.

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16 VERITAS ESTATE Nestled on a five-acre parcel near Lake Michigan in South Haven is the esteemed Vintage Inn. This indulgent bed and breakfast inside a 1904 farmhouse comes complete with lush gardens, farm to table dining, and now its very own winery: Veritas Estate.

19 SEND IN THE CLONES (PREQUEL)

19

Imagine discovering a vine that consistently produces 100-pointrated wines. You'd probably want to cultivate more of this exceptional vine, right? But how did clones originate and what is the secret behind the success of this mysterious technique?

23 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Grape blooms courtesy of Markus Koellman.

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www.michiganuncorked.com

FROM THE EDITOR “I started my spring cleaning today…and by cleaning I mean drinking wine and spraying everything with Citrus Fresh.”

— athomewithjen.com

I

n this issue of MU, we have a fragrant potpourri of articles, which cover the gamut of new Italian wines in northern Michigan to the history and bene ts of cloning (it’s not as hard as you think). We start out the issue with Erin Marie Miller’s roundup of spring wine recommendations by local Michigan sommeliers.

Jessica Zimmer writes about a new venture taking place at Gilchrist Farm, a Lake Leelanau winery which is planning a release next year of some new northern Italian wines: Teroldego and Lagrein. Emily Dockery serves double duty, providing a detailed harvest recap for 2024, which should be one for the record books. She also introduces us to a new winery nestled on a quaint ve-acre parcel near Lake Michigan in South Haven: Veritas Estate, which includes an inn built in 1904.

Jack Costa reintroduces us to the concept of cloning, with some background and a helpful illustration. And, as always, our inhouse sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Erin Marie Miller and Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked

Vol. 7 No.1 Spring 2025

Copyright © 2025 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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MESSAGE

SPRING FLING

By Erin Marie Miller

S

pring has nally sprung – and with it, the promise of picnics, barbecues and outdoor gatherings with friends and

by Jessica Zimmer family has arrived in full bloom. For wine lovers seeking the perfect bottle of vino to bring along to get-togethers or

pair with their favorite seasonal dishes as the warmer months approach, it’s no secret that Michigan’s wines have been gaining traction in recent years. Wineries throughout the state have taken home well-deserved awards and their artful, rustic vineyards have captured the attention of a new generation of curious wine consumers – both locally and nationally.

“It's so wonderful to see, and so inspiring to see, a younger generation of buyer that isn't all about Bordeaux, Burgundy, Brunello, the big wines from Napa. They are so enthusiastic, and so excited, when they have the opportunity to taste something that's truly, truly good, but also from a unique place with a story behind the label,” says Amanda Danielson, an advanced sommelier and the owner of Trattoria Stella in Traverse City, Michigan.

Still, when it comes to selecting the best Michigan-made wines to pair with seasonal meals this spring, wine experts like Danielson say there’s more to consider than mere geography.

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Selecting the cream of the crop “I have, for 25 years, been raising – literally waving – the ag for the quality potential of Michigan. To me, that's what I really lean into. And so, when I talk about Michigan wine, it's critical that anything that I do that’s associated with Michigan wine is about the potential for the world-class kind of quality that we have,” says Danielson, who also founded Intentional Agriculture, a nonpro t that manages a eld lab and small vineyard on the Old Mission Peninsula.

Despite the state’s potential for producing upper-echelon wines, Danielson points out that not all of Michigan’s wineries are there yet.

Amanda Danielson

“While I would argue that, out of 200 wineries (in Michigan), only about 10% are really producing that level of wine, I think that there are more than just those few that have that interest. Now, I think that we're growing up considerably,” Danielson says, noting that a new generation of vintners has started to transform

the state’s reputation – once centered around products like cherry wine and frosé – into a more quality-focused region, producing serious wines that can hold their own on the national stage.

Among the grapes grown in Michigan, Pinot Gris stands out for Danielson when it comes to seasonal wines for spring, largely due to the grape’s versatility, consistency and pigmentation in the skins that “can be made into white wine, pink wine, sparkling of both colors and even red.”

“For too many years, Pinot Grigio became a brand, and it was sort of synonymous with an inexpensive, innocuous, whitewhatever, moderate, everything wine. And it really diminished what I think was the actual potential of that grape variety,” Danielson says.

Among Danielson’s favorite picks for the season are Left Foot Charley’s Skin Fermented Pinot Gris, 2 Lads’ sparkling Pinot Gris and 2 Lads’ Rosé Pinot Gris – particularly the 2021 and 2021 vintages.

“You have a couple of di erent examples of di erent ways of expressing Pinot Gris that add to its versatility with various spring foods,” Danielson says, adding that the wines pair well with seasonal favorites like mushrooms, fresh asparagus, ramps, ddlehead ferns or even eld-fresh local strawberries with balsamic vinegar and cracked black pepper for a savory dessert. For lovers of reds, Danielson suggests pairing Shady Lane Cellars’ Blaufränkisch (go for the reserve or 2020, but consumers can also hold out for the 2021) with strawberries and a rustic bone-in pork chop or pork loin to enhance the dish’s avor.

“Imagine having stretchy lace – that's when a Blaufränkisch is well made. That's how those Blaufränkisch tannins come o to me, texturally. And with that, there is this sort of bramble fruit and preserves, and the acidity – it is such a beautiful red wine to incorporate with some of those spring fruits,” Danielson says, adding that Left Foot Charley’s Blaufränkisch is another great option to pair with seasonal fruits – particularly the Traverse City-based winery’s 2022 single vessel series, which included three versions of the same wine, each produced separately in a clay amphora, a barrique and a French oak puncheon, highlighting its versatility of expression.

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Beyond the more traditional seasonal food and wine pairings that often come to mind throughout the year, though, Danielson also challenges wine drinkers to think outside the box.

“To say, you know, rosé, white, red – I think there is so much versatility, and that's the beauty of cool climate viticulture. You can have reds that might have applicability towards something that may be more, historically, a white wine dish,” Danielson says.

Highlighting the avors of the season Tristen Walczewski

When it comes to choosing the best Michigan wines for spring, that versatility – and the unique opportunities it o ers for pairing food and wine in more creative ways – is key.

“Whites seem to be one of (Michigan’s) strongest, in terms of viticulture, and I also think there are some emerging places in southwest Michigan that are doing some really spectacular reds,” says Tristan Walczewski, chief operating o cer at Essence Restaurant Group in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and an advanced sommelier working toward Master Sommelier certi cation. For lovers of white wines seeking a great bottle to pair with seasonal vegetables like freshly picked onions or farm-fresh asparagus this spring, Walczewski recommends Mari Vineyards’ Grishaw Vineyard Grüner Veltliner.

“It's one of my favorite Michigan wines. What I love about Grüner is that it kind of has this very spring, slight root vegetable, white pepper element,” Walczewski says.

And for springtime salad lovers, Walczewski suggests pairing a Shou Blanc from Wyncroft in Pullman, Michigan – a blend of the winery’s LePage Estate grown Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – with an arugula salad and fresh goat cheese.

“I have always found that wine to be very aromatically expressive, very citrus-driven with a character that really complements a fresh salad,” Walczewski says, adding that Shady Lane Cellars’ Pomeranz Riesling is another tablefriendly choice for white wine lovers to pair with springtime snacks.

Moving into reds, Walczewski recommends a 2021 Avonlea Vineyard Pinot Noir from Wyncroft or a Lemberger from Hawthorne Vineyards on the Old Mission Peninsula in Northern Michigan (preferably aged at least four years to highlight the grape’s versatility) – both excellent options for pairing with poultry and steak.

“I think Pinot Noir has great versatility with a lot of dishes. I really enjoy it with duck. I think a whole roasted chicken would be great, heading in the poultry direction. I also have been favoring Pinot Noir with bistro-cut steak, like a hanger steak or a at iron,” Walczewski says.

Striking a balance

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For Felipe Diaz, the bar manager and co-founder of the wine program at Zingerman’s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan, selecting the right seasonal food and wine pairings for spring is all about balance.

“For Michigan whites, I'm a big fan of Laurentide Winery. (Zingerman’s Roadhouse has) a long-standing arrangement with them, and they've been delivering to us in person for over 15 years. They make a really beautiful Pinot Gris. It has a wonderful fruitiness on the front end without being sweet,” Diaz says, adding that the dry, fruity wine – particularly the 2023 vintage – pairs well with a fresh arugula salad topped with feta and pear.

Felipe Diaz

“I think the trio just work well, with the fruit notes from the wine and the pear. And you get that wonderful salt component (from the feta) that brings out and enhances the vivaciousness of the wine with the arugula,” Diaz says.

Despite the attention fresh fruits and vegetables often get during the spring months, Diaz says the season’s best pairings can also include meat and seafood. He recommends coupling Mawby Wine’s Blanc sparkling brut with wood- red oysters or a chargrilled ribeye steak. Pulled pork and barbecued ribs are another springtime favorite, according to Diaz, who suggests pairing them with a dry red like a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Dablon Vineyards and Winery in Baroda, Michigan.

Still, Diaz stresses that the ner details of pairing wine with food aren’t necessarily as important as pleasing guests or fellow partygoers at a springtime gathering.

“When people are trying to gure out what to pair, the food and the wine going together is great, but sometimes it's better to pair the vibe,” Diaz says, explaining that bringing a complex, high-end bottle of wine to a low-key gathering can risk alienating guests who may have responded well to a more approachable style.

Instead, Diaz recommends selecting a table-friendly wine everyone will enjoy, rather than focusing too much on the technicalities of a perfect pairing.

“Pairing (wine) with food is always nice,” Diaz says. “But drink what you like – and have fun with it.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Erin Marie Miller is a freelance journalist based in Metro Detroit. A lover of all things independent, she has written about small businesses, restaurants, non-profits, the arts and more for publications in Michigan and California since 2014.

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Blustone Vineyards

HARVEST 2024 RECAP

T

BY EMILY DOCKERY

he 2024 Michigan vintage is set to be an historic one. Michigan winegrowers and producers are united in revelry at harvest numbers usually seen in warmer climates. These numbers refer

to essential chemistry which helps growers determine the most ideal time to harvest and include sugar levels, known as Brix, pH levels, and acidity levels.

Take a peek behind the curtain as we travel the state to explore the historic 2024 harvest and the impact it could have on the Michigan wine industry.

Initially in Southwest Michigan there was great concern following a severe cold weather event that occurred in January of 2024 which involved a signi cant freeze as temperatures dipped well below 0° F. However, even with the predicted crop loss Southwest Michigan rallied to produce some epic results. We spoke with Amy Birk of Domaine Berrien to provide some perspective on how the growing season unfolded and how harvest went for the Lake Michigan Shore AVA. Amy Birk of Domaine Berrien (LAKE MICHIGAN SHORE AVA) MU How did winter damage a ect choices made throughout the growing season in SW MI? AB The 2024 damage came as a 1-2 punch in the southwest; the freeze event in January caused damage in most varieties, around 50% of primary bud damage. In response to this damage we chose to use our insurance canes which we had pinned to the vineyard oor and were insulated by snow during the freeze event and were not impacted, this had us running a VSP trellising system rather than our typical Scott Henry. An early warm up in April caused early varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Lemberger to experience an early bud break which was damaged by a frost event later in the month causing a signi cant reduction in crop.

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At Domaine Berrien our systems remained mostly the same for the year, with a few exceptions. We used a two arm VSP (vertical shoot position) training system this year rather than the four arm Scott-Henry system we typically run, during thinning where available we thinned down to two bunches a shoot rather than one to balance the vine which are used to ripening four arms rather than two. Our spray system and hand work remained much the same but we were able to run a smaller crew than previous years.

MU What are some stand out varieties from the 2024 harvest?

AB I found the late varieties to be fantastic this year. I am very excited to see how our Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Marsanne all develop in the cellar.

MU What were some notable aspects from this past harvest?

AB This year was a fantastic year for growing grapes once we were outside of winter and spring. The summer was hot, and the fall was long, warm and dry making it perfect for developing sugars and acids with minimal mildew pressure. The wines this year were very cellar friendly with only needing occasional acid adjustments depending on variety.

MU What should consumers look forward to from the 2024 vintage?

AB The 2024 vintage is going to be small but mighty! The vines had a great long summer and fall to develop rich depth of avor.

Amy Birk

I found the tannin development on the reds this year to be fantastic and I can’t wait to see how they grow in barrel. The white wines are lush and aromatic with nice acidity making it a great year to lay down some whites for aging.

Traveling north we spoke with Tom Knighton of Blustone Vineyards on Leelanau Peninsula.

Bluestone manages two vineyard sites on the peninsula including their 40-acre estate vineyard where their tasting room is located and another site on Lake Leelanau, Bella Fortuna Vineyard.

Tom Knighton Blustone Vineyards (LEELANAU PENINSULA AVA) MU How did Blustone fare during harvest 2024?

TK We had an amazing harvest in 2024. With the consistently warm summer that lasted into October, we had fruit at a level featuring quality that we've never experienced before, comparable to wineries in Central California and Oregon. So we're very excited about the wines that will be made from the 2024 vintage.

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MU What are some varietals you’re most excited for with the 2024 vintage?

TK There are certain wines that we know bene t from the longer growing season. Reds, of course, are the most obvious. We are really excited about our 2024 Pinot Noir and Merlot Reserve. We make an excellent Pinot Noir if I do say so myself. And typically we're very happy when we have fruit at 21° Brix. We harvested our Pinot Noir at 24° Brix this year. You could see the deep color come through as it was pressed. It's very exciting. Our Chardonnay will also bene t from the longer growing season. Finally, we make a bubbly called Blu Secco. It's made from the Glera grape which is the authentic grape typically grown in Italy for Prosecco. We're one of a handful of vineyards in the US that grow the Glera grape. It's typically very hard to grow and reach the pinnacle of ripeness this year so that's going to be a wine to say "cheers" about.

MU What were some stand out moments from this past harvest?

TK Three things come to mind: 1) We have a fantastic crew that comes up from Mexico to help with the caretaking of our vines.

They arrive in April and stay with us until the harvest is done. The challenge with this year's crop was that the fruit all ripened at the same time and our crew worked long hours to get it o the vine but they made it happen.

2) I need to give a shout out to John Molenhouse, our vineyard manager, who led our team throughout the entire growing season. He's an outstanding viticulturist who knows just how to encourage our vines to be at their best. Without his knowledge and skill, this vintage would not have reached its potential.

3) We had a wonderful time with our wine club. We invited whomever wanted to come to help with the harvest. It was fun to see them experience harvest up close and personal. Some of them even took home some Riesling fruit and made Riesling jelly which they shared with our team. From Leelanau we hopped over to their neighboring peninsula and AVA, Old Mission Peninsula, to check in with veteran grape grower Tom Petzold of Ten Hands Vineyard to get his perspective on how this most recent harvest compared to previous harvests.

Tom Petzold of Ten Hands Vineyard (Old Mission Peninsula) TP On Old Mission Peninsula 2024 was very similar to previous standout warm years: 2005, 2007, 2010. We saw similar ripeness and timing, which in many locations was advanced by a week or more. At Ten Hands Vineyard, the schedule of budbreak and bloom was accelerated by 7-10 days, but then fell into the normal schedule by veraison (when grapes start changing color). Harvest date was in line with the past 12 years. We had lower fruit set levels in the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch, sometimes less than 50% less harvest quantity.

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di cult due to the wet (on and o rains) in May and June. The quality seems to be above average, perhaps a real standout.

Only time will tell us in the end.

Plus, Michigan’s latest rising red grape star, Blaufränkisch, did very well in 2024. It looks to be one of the more intense vintages for Blaufränkisch in many years.

Merlot and Cabernet Franc had optimal ripeness as well.

Derrick Vogel & Izabela Babinska

However, the relatively high acid to high sugar ratio was a surprise. This could result in much better, and longer lasting, white wines. Traveling just east of Old Mission Peninsula we explored the 2024 harvest in the state’s newest AVA, Tip of the Mitt. We spoke with Izabela Babinska and Derrick Vogel of Folklor Wine & Cider in Charlevoix.

Izabela Babinska and Derrick Vogel of Folklor Wine & Cider (TIP OF THE MITT) MU What were some major aspects that made the 2024 harvest stand out for Folklor?

FOLKLOR 2024 was our rst vintage producing all of our wines and ciders on-site, here at our Charlevoix cellar.

In 2024 we also decided to run all native yeast fermentations on all of our wines and ciders. The more time we spend with the fruit, pursue an organic and regenerative way of farming, and taste the wines we've produced using native yeast fermentation, the more we've fallen in love with the avor pro les that are truly an expression of this place. Our inaugural vintage producing wine in our own cellar seemed like the perfect one to take this jump and another step toward our goal of producing 100% estate, organically-farmed wines and ciders.

MU Were there any harvest surprises?

FOLKLOR 2024 will be a standout vintage for northern Michigan. The hot, dry summer and fall contributed to excellent fruit quality this year. We saw beautiful, ripe fruit at our vineyard and the vineyards we work with. We are expecting the wines, both white and red, from the 2024 vintage to show balance and ageability. Across the board, it seems like yields were pretty light in northern Michigan. For us, our oldest estate vines are in their fourth year, so we're still expecting relatively light yields from these young vines.

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Downy mildew was extraordinarily

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Amy Birk

MU What are some exciting projects Folklor has in store to showcase the 2024 vintage?

FOLKLOR In 2024, we are launching our Folklor & Friends estate wine allocations. As we continue to work towards our goal of producing wines and ciders made with 100% sustainably farmed estate fruit, we are beginning to produce the rst small vintages of the wines that will become our agship Folklor wines in the future. We are also o ering private farm tours and tastings which is a great opportunity to walk the vineyards and taste wines with our grape growers and winemakers here at Folklor. You can sign up for wine club or book your tour at folklorwinecider.com. From there we head back south to check in with Bob Utter of Flying Otter in Southeast Michigan.

Bob Utter of Flying Otter Winery (SE MI) MU What were some wins and some challenges from the 2024 harvest?

BU The 2024 growing season in southeast Michigan was somewhat unusual but produced the best fruit we have harvested in the 17 years we have been harvesting from our estate vineyard. The season started o with a couple of late spring frost events, but our mitigation e orts were successful and we did not su er any bud damage. Overall the summer was very hot and sunny. Late summer we saw what has become our typical late season drought. We have never su ered winter damage to any of our cold hardy varieties. Our growing season was warmer and longer than many of the regions these varieties were developed for. So typically, we had excellent sugar accumulation. With all the heat and sun, we had great grape chemistry – good sugar accumulation and relatively low acid levels and for some reason I can’t explain, our bird predation was exceptionally low this season. Altogether this resulted in the best fruit we have ever harvested, and we are looking forward to exceptional wines.

MU Are there any varieties you are especially excited about?

BU We are very happy with our selection of red varieties, Marquette, Frontenac, and Petite Pearl. The Petite Pearl is not very vigorous and has taken an extended time to mature in our estate vineyard. This year, due in large part to the excellent growing season mentioned above, we had our best Petite Pearl harvest ever. While these varieties make good wine, we have found that they need to be barrel aged to make exceptional wine. While many wineries barrel age 6-12 months, we nd that extended aging (24-36 months) really creates the best wine.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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Gilchrist Farm

by Jessica Zimmer

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ilchrist Farm, a Lake Leelanau winery, plans to release a blend

of 60 percent Teroldego and 40 percent Lagrein wines in spring 2026.

This will be its rst o ering of wine from northern Italian grapes since owners Marc and Elizabeth Huntoon established the winery in 2018.

“Both wines tend to be very fruit-forward, dark in color, and high in tannins. They have notes of plum and blackberry, backed by an earthy minerality. The color ranges from ruby to black. We expect the rst release to be easy to drink, whether it is young or aged,” said Marc Huntoon.

The new blend is shaping out to be food-friendly. Good pairing options include wild game, Beef Bourguignon, veal shank, pizza, and spaghetti. The wine will also complement dishes with raisins or currants, foods that have a “Thanksgiving dressing” and match the wine’s intensity.

“Elizabeth and I are fans of Syrahs and Petite Sirahs, which are also dark and bold. Word on the street is they’re hard to grow in northwest Michigan. So we did our research on Italian wines and tasted samples.

We decided on Teroldego and Lagrein because they grow well in a cool climate,” said Huntoon.

Both varieties are traditionally grown in Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtiro, an autonomous region in north Italy. The blend will be a collaboration Marc Huntoon

with Drew Perry, who is also the head winemaker for Simpson Family Estates.

“We’re currently letting the wine ferment in stainless steel tanks. In the next few weeks, we will transfer it to new concrete wine tanks,” said Huntoon.

How the estate lends itself to cultivation The Huntoons’ 85-acre vineyard sits on a high plateau with a northsouth facing slope. This property has a distant view of north Lake Leelanau and a tiny peek of north Lake Michigan.

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“The vineyard is well above the surrounding areas and has

customers in most states through direct shipments.

sandy loam soil. Way back, it used to be a cherry orchard.

When we bought it, the trees had been pulled out and the

Further, Gilchrist Farm will distribute the blend to be sold at

land had been sitting fallow for at least 10 years,” said

Oryana Community Cooperative’s three locations in

Huntoon.

Traverse City, Burritt’s Fresh Markets in Traverse City, Hansen Foods of Suttons Bay, and a few other Michigan grocery

The Huntoons planned ahead for this project by planting

stores.

the vines in 2021 and 2022.

“We plan to showcase this as a new type of wine in “Our farm has a microclimate. It tends to be warmer than

Michigan. We will price it attractively to draw a younger

other properties farther down South French Road. Being

audience. The idea is to interest customers who are cost-

high up is great because the cold air doesn’t pool. The lack

conscious and want to try something new,” said Huntoon.

of chilly air pockets means the grapes ripen easily,” said Huntoon.

The Huntoons will feature the blend in November 2026 in Toast The Season, Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail’s annual fall

The Brix for the two varieties in the 2024 harvest was

event that features new releases with a food pairing.

between 22 and 23 percent.

Gilchrist Farm has an advantage in introducing the blend “This is an achievement that represents our hard work and

because of its prior successes with other wines, including

good growing conditions. In 2023, there was a drought

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and

from May to July. That stressed our plants,” said Huntoon.

white and red blends. Other future wines from the Farm will be made from Albarino grapes, which are traditionally

The Huntoons use the Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP)

used in Spain, and Blaufränkisch and Grüner Veltliner

system, to train the vine shoots rather than the traditional

grapes, which are traditionally used in Austria. The winery’s

Italian pergola system. In the VSP system, grapes grow on

rosé is made primarily from Chardonnay, with a touch of

four to six levels of wire, approximately three feet o the

Cabernet Franc to add color and depth.

ground. In the pergola system, grapes hang down from a lattice of wooden beams.

The advantage of the VSP system is that it exposes the fruit at the bottom to sunlight, helping it ripen more fully. The downside is more labor.

“We have to hedge the vines a couple of times in the summer. They produce a lot of foliage. We also have to thin the canopy over the year. Yet using VSP gets good results.

On the vine, the grapes taste delicious,” said Huntoon.

Sharing new wines, near and far The northern Italian blend will be available at Gilchrist Farm tasting room and its restaurant, both of which are in Suttons Bay. The Huntoons will also sell the wine online to

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Laurel Huntoon

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One selling point for the Huntoons is the fact that they

each wine as a single varietal. They may also do some

practice regenerative agriculture. Gilchrist Farm takes

barrel fermentation of the two varieties.

multiple steps to ensure cultivation is sustainable and minimizes crop loss. These include use of a non-lethal

“In 2026, we’re planning on a big advertising campaign

laser system to deter birds from eating the fruit and on-

to let people know about this new wine. We will have a

site cultivation of fruits and vegetables for the Farm’s

release party, tastings of the wine at Oryana’s three

restaurant.

locations, and posts about the wine on social media,” said Huntoon.

“Our youngest daughter, Laurel Huntoon, has become the winery’s soil scientist. She obtains material for our

By the time the blend is released, the Huntoons may be

composts from a wide variety of local sources. These

entering their wines in competitions.

include crushed grape must from other wineries, beer mash from local breweries, and wood chips from local

“We’ll see if we enter the rst iteration of the northern

loggers. All of these increase biodiversity and enhance

Italian blend. Right now, the goal is to introduce wine

soil quality,” said Huntoon.

lovers to these two wines and let them know what they’re about. Over time, we expect our customers will

As the Huntoons gain experience in producing the

come to love these full-bodied reds as much as we do,”

northern Italian wines, they will consider o ering each

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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by Emily Dockery estled on a quaint

ve-acre parcel near Lake

roots and commit to the Michigan wine industry. In 2022

Michigan in South Haven is the esteemed Vintage Inn. This

the couple began sourcing properties to follow their vision

indulgent bed and breakfast inside a 1904 farmhouse

and in 2023 acquired the property where Vintage Inn and

comes complete with lush gardens, farm to table dining,

Veritas Estate now sits.

and now its very own winery: Veritas Estate.

With their strong passion for Michigan, extraordinary Not only taking the plunge to start a winery, innkeepers

culinary experience, skilled winemaking talent, and a clear

Sherry and Tim decided to also plant a vineyard to bring

vision, the couple has quickly built up their brand and

about a pure Michigan wine experience.

identity on the west side of the state. Finding their home in the heart of Michigan wine country, they dedicated

We recently sat down to discuss the inspiration behind

themselves to creating relationships with local wine

Veritas Estate and the vision for the future of the winery

growers as they established their own vineyards. These

with winemaker and innkeeper Sherry Seston.

relationships ensure they acquire high quality grapes as

Seston’s background is in academia. She received her Ph.D.

well as have access to mentorship as they learn the ropes

in Environmental Microbiology from Michigan State

of Michigan grape growing and winemaking, which has

University in 2001. She left Michigan to pursue her career,

many contrasting challenges from a state like California.

but Michigan never left her. Returning occasionally for vacations, holidays, and of course tours of Michigan wine

All of the wines made at the estate come from Southwest

country, the draw to return grew stronger. Seston

Michigan fruit and are made in the traditional European

eventually left academia to pursue winemaking. She

methods which complement popular cooler climate

studied with the Wine, Spirit, and Education Trust and

varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and

earned her Level 4 Diploma in Wines in 2022. She took her

Blaufränkisch, among others. Seston is interested in not

knowledge of microbiology and wine to California and her

only crafting high quality Michigan wines but also telling a

home state of Wisconsin to cultivate her winemaking skills.

story with each vintage and celebrating the unique

After increasing her enology experience, she convinced her

ecosystem of the Lake Michigan Shore AVA. She combines

husband that Michigan was where they should put down

that goal with o ering engaging experiences at the Estate.

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Continued on next page

amazing place that allows us to produce and forage so many di erent things! My husband was a professional Chef for 35 years, so we combine our talents to create a really unique experience for our visitors.

MU Where is Veritas Estate sourcing grapes from? How do you decide which varieties to use for your wines?

SS We currently purchase grapes from growers in Berrien County. The vineyard on the property is almost two years old. We have planted Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, and Grüner Veltliner. We hope to produce around 100 cases of wine from our own vines in another two or three years, but we will always have to purchase some grapes as we don’t have room to expand the vineyard. I really enjoy working with other growers! It helps me stay connected to other people in the industry and it is the aspect of winemaking that I am the least experienced in, so I learn a lot from collaborating.

We are committed to producing elegant dry wines from primarily European grape varieties. The exact varietals and Take a moment to get to know Sherry at Veritas Estate,

styles we produce each year are dependent on the

glean her passion for Michigan wines, and plan your trip to

conditions of each particular vintage. That is an advantage

the Vintage Inn for an unforgettable Michigan wine

of purchasing grapes - we can adapt and nd the best fruit

experience.

in Michigan - which may not always be the same varietals or locations year over year. The disadvantage is that we

MU What was the inspiration behind Vintage Inn launching

don’t have as much control over the vineyard.

Veritas Estate?

MU What is the style of Veritas Estate? Are there any SS The reason that we started a business in Michigan is

particular varietals the winery is specializing in?

because of the amazing wines that can be made here in Southwest Michigan. In 2023 we bought the property in

SS Our style is elegant, dry wines. We only produce one or

South Haven with the goal of starting a boutique winery

two o -dry wines each year, usually from traditional

and inn. Ultimately we want the winery to be the main

German varieties such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer. We

attraction, with the Vintage Inn providing an immersive

also love sparkling wine!

experience in ne wine, food, and lodging. Veritas Estate describes the entire property where we grow produce, raise

The Inn is such a great place for romance and celebrating

chickens, and have a small vineyard of 360 vines. We want

special occasions that we have to have sparkling wine on

visitors to see how we use everything from the property,

hand. In our rst year in business we sent out base wine

even foraged products like mushrooms, herbs, and seeds, in

made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and had

our products. The Lake Michigan Shore ecosystem is an

sparkling wine produced for us by the Charmant Method.

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This year we are doing Methode Champagnoise by hand

in Southwest Michigan. The vibe of Veritas Estate and

from a base wine made from a blend of Cabernet Franc

Vintage Inn is one of exploration of wine and of food.

and Riesling. We will only produce 25 cases, but I am really

Contributing in tandem to the local agricultural industry,

excited about this wine.

the tourism industry, and the culinary industry, Vintage Inn and Veritas Estate is poised to be a powerhouse

I love working with unusual grape varietals or using a

establishment in South Haven. Planning a trip to

familiar grape varietal in a new way. For instance, I really

experience the property, the wines, and the farm to table

like to use Cabernet Franc to make “white” wines - both

dining early and often is a no brainer.

sparkling and still. My White Cabernet Franc was my most popular wine in 2023, and I have made more from the

Whether you are seeking a cozy, snowy getaway over the

2024 vintage! The other red varietals I am excited about

winter, a blooming, sunshine lled spring break, the lush

are Blaufränkisch and Tannat. I just love the avor pro le

and beachy Lake Michigan summer vibes, or a colorful and

and light tannins of Blaufränkisch. This year I experimented

fragrant fall excursion, seasonal visits to the property hold

with methods to concentrate the tannins and boost the

di erent but exhilarating experiences to behold. And of

structure and body of the wine. Both the light bodied and

course, throughout the year new wines are slated to be

fuller bodied versions will be aged in a mix of new and old

released.

oak barrels. It is an amazing grape! Tannat is another grape that not too many people have heard of. In contrast to

Veritas Estate is open from Thursday to Sunday from

Blaufränkisch, it makes very dark and structured wine.

11am-5pm. Guests are encouraged to check Google for any updates on inclement weather and holiday hours.

MU What are some things Veritas Estate is looking forward

Seston highly recommends reservations as visits to the

to in 2025?

Estate grow in demand with the local population and with tourists. Wine tastings are by reservation only and are led

SS We have some exciting wines coming out, including

by either Seston or her husband. The couple takes pride in

the return of our White Cabernet Franc, our new

discussing in detail the history of the grape varietals and

Generations sparkling wine, and an o -dry Vignoles that

the science behind how each wine was made as well as

has avors and acidity that are out of this world. We are in

the local wine culture. A guided wine tasting of 5 wines

the process of creating a new patio for wine tasting that should be open in May or June 2025. Our long term goal is to remodel the cellar of the Inn so that we can give cellar tours and explanations of the wine making process.

Clearly Veritas Estate will prove to be an iconic addition to the Michigan wine industry and the culture of local wine

takes about 45-60 minutes. You can make reservations online at https://mivintageinn.com/wine.

For more information about the winery and the Inn please visit them online at mivintageinn.com where you can see our rooms, book your stay, and explore the current wine o erings.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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SEND IN THE CLONES (PREQUEL)

P

JACK COSTA

icture this. Rome has been invaded by enormous yellow haired six-foot-tall Germanic men. Chaos is spreading

to every corner of European life. The political and economic stability of Rome has disintegrated, plunging Europe into what is famously known as the Dark Ages. From Ireland to Italy, you face the grim reality of invasions by barbarians and con icts among local tribes or nearby cities. Art and culture stagnate, and survival becomes the primary focus for everyone, from farmers to nobles, who are at the mercy of the weather, disease, and the caprices of higher nobility. Life was arduous and death inevitable. Sounds delightful, doesn’t it?

Despite the grim circumstances, the monks of the Medieval period might be credited with single-handedly saving the cultural soul of Europe from obscurity with churches and monasteries emerging as beacons of stability in an era known for anything but calm. The monks accumulated vast tracts of land through endowments, becoming larger landowners than some nobles, thus establishing themselves as the economic bedrock of early medieval society.

While much of Europe languished, the monks endeavored to keep the ame of many traditions alive and innovate existing ones. Among these included developing distillation (the rst ‘Scotch’ is attributed to a monk) and the discovery of brewing beer with hops and developing Parmesan cheese.

Given the spiritual signi cance and the perceived magical and medicinal properties of wine, it is no surprise the monk's contributions also extended into winemaking and viticulture (thank Friar Tuck for your favorite Oregon Pinot Noir). Over the next few hundred years, the monks became the world's most adept winemakers and viticulturists, Continued on next page

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with monasteries becoming winemaking hubs that reportedly produced hundreds of thousands of gallons (records show some produced 11,000 gallons annually) for both general consumption and communal purposes.

They developed sophisticated systems of recordkeeping and fertilization protocols for vineyard health (they’re credited for using marl to decrease soil acidity), improved clarity in wine (since turbidity in water could be your demise), and let's not overlook the legend of the monk Dom Perignon, who added some extra sparkle to wine. They enhanced pruning methods and devised a detailed farming calendar for vineyards. The centralized workforce of the abbeys allowed them to produce and store vast quantities of wine for extended periods, rivaling even today's standards, with some becoming the sole suppliers of royal courts from France to Hungary.

Among their countless contributions to winemaking, the monks also began (whether they realized it completely) one of the most intriguing and perhaps secretive topics in winemaking today: cloning grapevines.

If you've taken a high school biology class or seen Star Wars, you’ll know that clones are exact genetic replicas of another entity, or as Merriam-Webster de nes, “genetically identical cells or organisms.” In winemaking, the process of cloning a grapevine, though seemingly modern, is rooted in the soil of antiquity with wine grapes olives, dates, and gs having been cloned since the days of Gilgamesh.

Why Clone A Grapevine?

Imagine discovering a vine that consistently produces 100-point-rated wines. You'd probably want to cultivate more of this exceptional vine, right? While this scenario may seem idealized, who wouldn't desire an abundance of top-rated wines? To clone the vine, you’d retrieve a cutting from the mother vine and plant that cutting. Voila.

You’ve cloned a vine.

By cultivating vines from cuttings rather than seeds, you preserve and produce a plant identical to the mother vine. Planting by seed, however, will yield a new version of the grape or a completely new variety altogether. New clonal variations — or new varieties — can also arise through natural mutations in the vineyard over time. Pinot Grigio, for example, is technically a mutation of Pinot Noir. While the clusters of Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio are strikingly similar in shape and appearance, the pale skins of Pinot Grigio are the de ning di erence making it suitable for producing only rose and white wines.

Clonal vs Massal Selection Despite no understanding of genetics, the monks of the Medieval era were quite aware of the variances among

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individual vines. As diligent record keepers and expert vignerons, they noted these di erences, pinpointing which vines and plots yielded the most superior fruit—an early incarnation of clonal selection, albeit less precise than contemporary methods.

Instead of propagating a new vineyard from a single parent vine, however, they gathered cuttings from several top-performing vines to establish a new vineyard. This process, known as Massal Selection, in theory, would produce superior-quality fruit from the mother vineyard, thereby enhancing the overall quality of the wine from that particular plot. This meticulous evaluation of vine and site selection would eventually lay the groundwork for the modern premier and grand cru classi cations of Burgundy.

Blending Varieties vs. Clones Because single-varietal wines can often lack something, Winemakers will blend di erent grape varieties to balance avors and enhance complexity (Bordeaux blends are a prime example of this technique). However, by blending several varieties, you lose the most coveted and quintessential avors of a particular grape. Blending clones from the same variety can preserve the nest attributes of that grape, thereby maintaining the desired varietal characteristics in the nal wine while also enhancing complexity.

Types of Clones Fruit and Structure Clones The industry often categorizes clones into two distinct categories: fruit and structure clones. Fruit clones are notable for their pronounced fruity avors, contrasting with structure clones, which may lack these dominant fruity notes but enhance the wine's texture and tannins. Blending these clones harmonizes the wine, compensating for what each clone lacks individually.

Think of Vincent Van Gogh. Whether you're familiar with his work or not, it's hard not to be captivated by the layered dimensions of his paintings. In "Starry Night," Van Gogh doesn’t just use an array of harmonious colors, but speci c brush strokes that amplify the texture perceived on the canvas. These elements—color and texture —work independently yet synergistically, much like how fruit and structure clones introduce new facets to wine.

Additional Types of Clones Given the myriad of variations of any single grape type, it’s evident that each vine harbors unique traits and distinctive characteristics that surpass simply enhancing fruity aroma or texture. In addition to yielding superior wine, some clones might ripen earlier, yield smaller berries (ideal for amplifying the avor in red wines), or even exhibit resistance to particular diseases). Some clones (like the Dijon Chardonnay Clones) provide a wine with increased ability or intensi ed aromatics.

Research and Development of New Clones On the UC Davis Plant Foundation Service, you can browse hundreds of clonal selections of any grape, with detailed notes on the attributes of each clone. Some universities, like Minnesota State, have breeding programs that develop and trademark clones, acquiring royalties from nurseries that sell them. Surprising, right? Other public and private enterprises research and propagate new vine materials. One such organization, the Association de la Sauvegarde de la Diversité des Cépages de Bourgogne, is a collaborative network of some of Continued on next page

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the most prestigious grand crus in Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Unsurprisingly, they are very protective of their work and reluctant to share knowledge outside their immediate circle; there have even been reports that thieves have stolen cuttings from some of these coveted wineries.

Downsides to Cloning On the face of it, you might think using superior clones would be a universally accepted improvement to wine.

There are however some caveats and critics to clonal selection. One such critique is that modern wine loses its distinctiveness when everyone uses identical clones. The Dijon clones of Pinot Noir, originating from just ve distinct vines, are the most widely used in Burgundy. Many (possibly a majority of winemakers worldwide) plant these for their quality and consistent yields.

Another notable example is Concannon Vineyard in Napa, which is recognized for producing the rst Cabernet Sauvignon in California. Established in the late 1800s, James Concannon cultivated his vineyard with vines sourced directly from the esteemed Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux. After Prohibition, UC Davis acquired three cuttings from Concannon's Margaux vines which eventually became known as clones 7, 8, and 11.

Due to their disease resistance and ability to produce high-quality fruit, these quickly became the most popular and extensively planted Cabernet Sauvignon clones in California. It is estimated that roughly 80% of California's Cabernet Sauvignon is derived from these three clones, which certainly points to a lack of variety.

Final Thoughts Recognizing the inherent value of incorporating multiple clones in the blending process is straightforward.

Exploring and cloning new variants of a speci c grape through cuttings can signi cantly elevate the quality and ensure consistency in your varietal wines. Astute winemakers should meticulously select clones that best complement their winemaking style, aiming to make a wine that accentuates the nest attributes of each clone while also creating an extraordinary wine that wows the consumer. As we continue to progress and develop new clones for winemaking, the relative quality is sure to improve. Whether winemakers opt for clonal or massal selection, premium wines can be made that consistently highlight the best qualities of a single grape variety.

Just like Van Gogh and his painting, winemakers can approach making wine in a similar manner: artfully knitting together the best qualities of each clone to create more enchanting and harmoniously balanced wine.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Often asked if he’s even old enough to drink, Jack is a writer, educator, and professional wine judge. The Oregon native studied winemaking under mentor Stephen Reustle and occasionally contributes to the award winning blog Wine Folly.

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Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Rove Winery | 2023 Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Sun-ripened stone fruit and in ness on the nose of this dry style Riesling leads to a lively burst of white peaches, nectarines, minerally notes, hints of Granny Smith apple and wet stone elements. Silky smooth with nice balancing acidity as it traverses to a bright, lime zest accented nale. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Crab pu s | www.rovewinery.com Rove Winery | 2023 Select Harvest Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Scents of tropical fruit tempt you into the glass. Tropical fruit notes stay focused on the palate, as ripe guava and fresh pineapple interlace with honeycomb, and lemon sorbet. Rich with a touch of sweetness while well balanced and lively, it nishes with a kiss of lemon drops. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Spiced potato samosas | www.rovewinery.com Rove Winery | 2023 Sauvignon Blanc | Leelanau Peninsula The citrus blossom aroma is fragrant and engaging. Juicy kiwi, crisp green apples, and pomelo fruit join a gentle touch of herbs and fresh Meyer lemon enlivening the palate. Brisk acidity keeps the wine’s balance on point, and the nish shows o vibrancy and purity. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Fig and goat cheese cros ni | www.rovewinery.com Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2021 Reserve Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula The invi ng aroma c presents plum tarts at rst swirl. Lean and minerally on entry, it broadens on the palate with layers of huckleberries, fresh cranberry sauce, and red plums accented by a pinch of crushed herbs. Light on its feet and dynamic through the savory nish. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Beef strogano | www.brysestate.com Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2021 Cab/Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula This sensuous blend of Cab Franc and Merlot kicks o with a commanding aroma of cassis and earthiness. S mula ng the palate are layers of spiced blackberry compote, fresh leather, black currants, graphite, and well-managed underlying oak. Round and lush with rm tannins and lovely balancing acidity, and the nish is everlas ng. SRP: $29 | | Food pairing: Grilled ribeye steaks | www.brysestate.com Brys Estate & Vineyard | 2022 Sauvignon Blanc | American The expressive aroma is mouthwatering, driving you into the glass. There you will enjoy tantalizing notes of tropical guava and melon, lemon- lime ice, tones of Melogold grapefruit, and lemongrass melding in harmony. Beau fully balanced with zesty acidity, it remains bright and sunny through the persistent nish. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Grilled shrimp skewers | www.brysestate.com Brengman Brothers | 2022 Cedar Lake Vineyard 2022 Merlot | Leelanau Peninsula Wildly aroma c at rst swirl, this Merlot displays mesmerizing layers of blueberry jam, earthy tones, dark plums, hints of fresh tobacco, oak nuances, and crème de cassis coa ng the palate. Plush while nely balanced with supple tannins and a sa n-like texture. Elegant through the long-las ng nish. SRP: $95 | Food pairing: Duck con t www.brengmanbrothers.com

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Brengman Brothers | 2022 Concrete Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula Whi s of honeysuckle and tree fruits rise from the glass with this well-balanced Chardonnay. Succulent yellow apples, almond paste, lemon curd, and creamy Comice pears highlighted by Meyer lemon speak clearly of the cul var. Fresh with a faint dash of herbs on the upli ing nish. SRP: $32 | Food pairing: Spanakopita www.brengmanbrothers.com Aurora Cellars | 2021 Blaufränkisch | Leelanau Peninsula Dark forest berries on the nose open the door do an expressive mouthful of huckleberry pie, chewy black licorice drops, allspice, black currants, and nicely integrated oak nuances. Well balanced and succulent as it ows smoothly across the palate and nishes long with a kick of savory black pepper spice. SRP: $48 | Food pairing: Classic beef stew | www.auroracellars.com Two K Farms 2021 | Bellenoir Red | Leelanau Peninsula This palate pleasing dry red wine, cra ed of 67% Gamay Noir and 33% Pinot Noir, opens with a oral aroma and fruit forward entry. Fully avored while graceful as layers of wild berries, black raspberries, Montmorency cherries, and blueberries meld with a lovely accent of delicate herbs. The sa sfying nish remains fresh, juicy, and elegant.

SRP: $27 | Food pairing: Herb/cream cheese stu ed mushrooms | www.twokfarms.com Two K Farms | 2022 Bubbly Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula This well-cra ed bubbly struts forth con dently with an aroma of delicate white blossoms. Snappy layers of nectarine, poached pear, fresh squeezed grapefruit, honeysuckle, sweet peach, and Meyer lemon wrap around a nice core of acidity. Lively and lip-smacking delicious as it dances on the palate to an energe c nish. SRP: $25 Food pairing: Prosciu o peach bites | www.twokfarms.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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Kelli White's very personal approach to exploring this fascinating and delicious subject will resonate with wine students for years to come - destined to be a modern classic.

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Wine Con dent

521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI