The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali
Volume 07 Jan/Feb/March 2011
IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â‚Ź3.50
Volume Seven Jan/Feb/March 2011 The Bud Agustina Ardie, Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa Riri Suwito sales & marketing Bagus Rama Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Novan Satria
The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali
Volume 07 Jan/Feb/March 2011
Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Saka Wahana Cipta IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â‚Ź3.50
Licence 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99
Cover photo by Tracey Tomtene
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Out of the box Enter The Tempest Front up Notables interview Ashley Bickerton spotlight Tracey Tomtene in focus Feature Bijou bunks The LisT Guidezine bliss
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Waka di Ume.
those were the days Victor Mason goes gaga on Blue Meanies JIWA JUICE Giver or taker? destinations Five Elements Fiction Transit Fields archives Jazz Cafe Open mike More front than Harrod's
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Bygone Balawan.
Andrew Hall discovers the secrets of Bali. And gets demolished by a tornado.
I’ve just got my nose out of a recently published book called Secrets of Bali. An interesting read and an epic piece of writing because, for example, it manages to deal with the creation of the cosmos (Big Bang onwards), human evolution in general and where the Balinese came from in particular, in four very short chapters. Succinct or what? It also contains a handy recipe for Balinese smoked duck and other tasty tidbits. But my favourite passage is this: “(Building) Construction work is carried out by men, except for labouring and plastering walls, which are carried out by women, carrying huge weights on their heads and damaging their spines.” And numpty me was thinking that carting a metric tonne of batu kali a day around a building site on yer bonce was merely an excellent way of maintaining good posture! It also begs a question that would make any right-thinking OH&S officer curl up in the foetal position and bang her or his fists on the floor: Are these poor souls required to carry rocks on their heads while labouring and plastering? If so, it’s an outrage! Anyway, have a go at it. Lots of interesting stuff in there that reminds one of the musings of Covorrubias, Eiseman et al. But the author of Secrets has left out some secrets that I find quite fascinating – especially as they pertain to our little patch of paradise, Ubud. For instance, betcha didn’t know we had tornados in The Bud. Oh yes. . . . so there I was, just putting the finishing touches on a piece for this illustrious publication and having some brunch at the best brekky joint for miles around – Sugars Villas in Kutuh Kaja. Job done I was joined by the Aussie owner, John; Farmer John as he’s known in these parts, and a runaway couple from parts foreign. We were sitting and commenting on some nice weather for a change – the dry season being a myth created by tour companies and travel agents (another secret not in Secrets). Lovely it was. Of course it started to chuck it down shortly thereafter. Lightning (traveling sideways!), thunder – all the snap crackle and pop that you’d rather give a miss during a peaceful brunch.
Enter the tornado. First it picked up John off his chair and dumped him a couple of metres way. Then it picked up the roof of the dining area and dumped it on top of us. EEK! Far from finished, the blighter picked up two large trees from across the road, dumping one on the wreckage of our former roof and one on my car. The four of us had the good fortune to be sitting (or in John’s case, laying) in exactly the right place and were saved a good squashing by dint of the fact that roofs are v-shaped and that a robustly constructed counter took the brunt of the impact. We crawled out from under what used to be eaves and moved to the bar next to the pool – somewhat bewildered about what had just happened (and definitely in need of a drink). Oh no, no, the bugger came back again and blew up the bar as we dived for shelter into a bathroom. Thereafter we demolished a bottle of vodka in no time flat. True story. It made all the newspapers here with my car as the star of the show – rather sadly depicted on front pages with a great lump of wood laying on top of it. You can even go to YouTube to see visions of the tornado captured by someone who was up the road a bit and had the presence of mind to get out his hand phone. Anyway, several days later we were sitting by the pool at Sugars reminiscing about our experience and surveying the destruction. John displayed his prodigiously bruised posterior – which I felt somewhat unnecessary. Some folk who live nearby dropped in to see what had happened, so we told them. Do you know the first question from one of them – whose name begins with a letter between “L” and “N”? “Everyone alright?” No. “Dogs make it through okay?” No. “. . . how much had you had to drink?” For f***s sake! John and I just looked at each other, more gobsmacked by the question than by the inclement weather that nearly killed us. You’ll be pleased to know that reconstruction is well under way and the reopening of “Twisters Restaurant” and the “Gone With The Wind Bar” will take place in the near future.
aryswarung contemporary balinese asian cuisine
f i d e l ’s s e c r e t of longevity
to fight against capitalism wheatgrass mojito
cuban cigar
coffee luwak
martini bar | wine cellar | degustation menu | cigar lounge
shopping dining..., shopping dining..., shopping...
treasures toko antique
collection from bali & other islands ubud main st.
t62.361.975053
gallery of gold jewelry aryswarung@dekco.com
w w w. d e k c o . c o m
The Age of Aquarius Peace will guide the planets, and love will guide the stars...so goes the song, and so it promises to be throughout the 2011 Bali Spirit Festival. In this their fourth annual celebration of yoga, dance and music, Megan Pappenheim and the Bali Spirit team gather together international teachers with world class musicians, and mix these with a perfect measure of healing, massage and a dash of ‘marketplace’ for all things New Age and spiritual. Year on year this festival expands like our consciousness, as yoga masters of all styles bend with the flow, world musicians drum and dance into the nights of Ubud and as a group, we all gain a greater insight into Bali’s unique religious, cultural and artistic ways. To book an unforgettable experience to this global truth-searching event, log on to www. balispiritfestival to expand your knowledge on how to get here, where to stay and what to do when you land. March 23rd – March 27th. www.balispiritfestival .com
Book Of Secrets Secrets of Bali by Jonathan Copeland with Ni Wayan Murni hits the bookstores this month with a definitive look at the whys and wherefores of the people and places of Bali. "Eloquent, enthusiastic and jargon-free," is how Dr Angela Hobart from the University of London describes it, and that about hits the nail on the head. From Balinese Gods to Balinese gamelan, difficult subjects are simply explained. Secrets of Bali (published by Orchid Press, Bangkok) generously offers a feast of rare and passionate insights from a man who has fallen in love with Bali and a woman who, in the words of another academic reviewer, Dr Rob Goodfellow, "in so many ways, is Bali." www.orchidbooks.com
Memories Of The Sacred Veteran lensman Rio Helmi's latest book (Memories of The Sacred, Afterhours Group, Jakarta) is part of an ongoing series of photographs on which he has been working for the last 30 years. His dedication and keen eye for the spiritual space shines through, as ever, in the quality of the work. "This collection, in a very selective manner," he says, "is a kind of retrospective of my experience of Bali, which dates back to the '70s. There was a certain spirit that infused Bali in those days, but much of this spirit is fading fast, despite great efforts at maintaining the external forms. Although the shift might not be visible for many, for anyone who has spent a few years on the island immersed in the culture, it is painfully obvious." Available from Rio Helmi Gallery, Ary's Bookshop, Ganesha Bookshop, Amandari and Alila Ubud.
Alila ad
Old Favourites Warung Pulau Kelapa – or Palm Island Eatery – joins other fashionable diners on Jl. Raya Sanggingan. The building, an antique limasan, oozes old world charm, as does the interior dotted with old photos, an old wind-up gramophone and a fabulous authentic Indonesian menu. Expect old favourites at old prices. Sit at a wooden trestle table, admire the high wooden ceiling, the carved windows and wooden interior as you sup on soto ayam kampung and many other delicacies from the archipelago. Open from 11.30 to 21.00. Tel. 0818251088
Map ref. B.3
Transcendental Cooking If life is truly coming to an end in 2012 then it must be time to get into the kitchen and learn how to prepare mouthwatering, soul pleasing, sensorial sensations of top caliber. There is only one place on the perfection list and that is The Workshop at Mozaic – Bali’s best kitchen and one of Asia’s top five restaurants. The Workshop is about learning techniques and methods, both of which will take you far into the realms of cuisine as a whole, not just toe dipping into the world of a couple of easy recipes, hard to duplicate back home due to the lack of traditional ingredients. The Bentley of cooking courses, Mozaic’s interactive Miele five-star kitchen will elevate you into another realm way before the Mayan calendar will. Classes are held Wednesdays and host a maximum of 10 people, so bookings are essential. A unique creative (and canbe-humorous team-building) event, The Workshop welcomes private groups. Tel. 975768
www.mozaic-bali.com
Map ref. B.3
Nouveau Crossings Bridges, set on the ravine of the Oos River, is home to the newest and trendiest restaurant, wine bar and coffee shop in Ubud. Reminiscent of the name, it is a place that spans cultures, countries and stories. Set on three levels, above rushing sacred waters, the ambience is convivial and welcoming and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and for all those special moments in between. Located at the bottom of the hills of Ubud and Tjampuhan, Bridges is an ideal midway point on your trek either into or away from the town centre. Cocktails, wine and coffee are lovingly accompanied by food. Is there anything better than bridge building? Tel. 970095
Map ref. G.2
Bag Me A Bag Bags, handbags, purses or pochettes, they all come in different shapes and sizes and in Ubud they come from Nanan. Stylish, quality leather is cut, shaped and sewn into a myriad of contours, colours and creations. Nanan, meaning ‘lucky’ in Indonesian, brings together excellent craftsmanship to the ever necessary accessory – the handbag. Located on Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Nanan dresses its windows with colourful leather fashion statements that revamp and restyle any outfit. While the greater part of their range is for the girls, there are a couple of good-looking man-bags and computer carriers available. Tel. 08155708835
Warung Pulau Kelapa.
Map ref. K.9/P.9
Oops....the contact number for Villa Wanita View was mis-printed in last issue's Advertisers Directory. It should read +62 8123883559. Apologies to the crew at Wanita View!
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Beautiful hillside land, filled with absolutely magnificent views settled on the Ayung River. This marvelous piece of land is adjacent to the Payangan Hideaway Resort. This freehold land is a rare opportunity, and will be perfect for resort development or private villa estate. The land can be subdivided and offers a fabulous view over the rice terraces and volcanoes. Electricity & water supplied and access road available. Please visit us for the best properties in Ubud area Jl. Raya Ubud No. 8x,Ubud, Bali Tel/Fax: (0361) 974 153 Email: ubudbali@exotiqrealestate.com
Ashley Bickerton surfed to artworld fame in the ’80s on a ‘trajectory towards oblivion’. Today he lives in Bali…and is once again among the world’s most prestigious collections.
Ashley, you’re on the front cover of C-Arts Magazine and Asia Art Pacific Magazine for the month of November, one could say you are as hot as a pistol these days. They do overlap; it seems to come in bursts. Back in New York I had a run of covers and big articles all simultaneously. I don’t know why. It seems to come in little spurts, like sales, all lined up in their own rhythm. Shows line up in their rhythm and press lines up in its rhythm. How do feel about it? What’s to complain about it? Covers are nice, and then different articles along the way. Sometimes you’re happy to be in a magazine, it’s a little bit unexpected. I’ve had lesser magazines and covers and I’ve had bigger magazines and covers and then features without a cover, which is better.
Museums, let’s talk about that. I had a very good run this year of group shows, sort of every major hip museum show. One was a pop life show at Tate Modern in London, currated by Jack Banilofski and Allison Gingeras. What do you think has caused so much interest in your work at this time? I had to have a comeback sometime, clearly. Weird, there’s been a couple of stops and starts. I was part of a group that basically took over the art world in the late ’80s. Steinbeck, Jeff Koons… we became like major art stars before I was 30. Now I’m 51. Then the art market crashed and at some point a whole bunch of new artists came on the scene in the ’90s. I decided to move to Brazil, it didn’t work out, and then I moved to Bali because I had been coming here for years to surf for the summer, recharging my
batteries and doing drawings and such. So I knew the place well. A bit far, Bali, but I was quite happy to get the hell away from New York, as far as possible at that point. So I moved here. It’s kind of like I disappeared, but didn’t. Moved here in ’93 and in ’96 I did the first show of work that I did here in Bali, which was called by Roberta Smith of The New York Times “one of the greatest comebacks in recent memory”. The Whitney Museum ended up buying the triple self-portrait, which is one of my more difficult pieces. So my career was back on track. In ’99 I started showing in White Cube Gallery, London, which is one of the more moving and shaking galleries. You had a 10-year hiatus, in a manner of speaking? I got an enormous amount of press in the ’80s, but somehow my trajectory was
Extradition with Palette Framed.
interview
towards oblivion at the same time. I had a full page in the Village Voice in New York, which is what everybody wanted in those days, but the real comeback came when I finally shifted galleries. I joined up with another organization in New York City, the Lehman Maupin Gallery. It was in the Armory in New York and they gave me the whole booth where my work was singled out. The Armory is huge, so I ran with it. How do you see yourself now in the art world compared to the ’80s? Has it changed? It’s changed dramatically since I left New York. I had to relearn the entire game. When I left I was part of an ancient system of stables where artists were beholden to a single gallery. It was like being under the security of a Soviet system, and you were always secure and could rely on getting your money, but you could never really get ahead. It didn’t provide a great deal of momentum to produce and to fight. These days artists are far less reliant on one particular gallery, they are much more beholden to themselves and they move more freely to the various galleries. There’s the art fair factor, the internet factor, things are immediate. My work is hung up at The Armory in New York and I’m on the internet the next day. Let’s back up a bit, and talk about your participation in the major shows. I was in the Dakis Joannou show of his collection, he’s one of the three biggest premiere collectors in the world. Then there’s Charles Saatchi and Francois Pinault. Saatchi is famous for buying and selling and he sold mine years ago. I’m still very much involved in the collections of François Pinault. He owns everything,
Gucci, Christie’s auction house, and he’s one of the two richest men in France. His son just married Selma Hayek. Do the sales trends affect you as an artist? When there’s a boom, you run with it. You throw an idea out there and the dealers are more likely to say yes. It can be a large-scale bronze sculpture, let’s say, and they are willing to go with it, but that dries up instantly when the market crashes. People hold on to their wallets, it changes the tender of things. What about purchasing art as a safety net? Nobody spends money on art as a safety net; you can’t collect if you are collecting as an investment, although you might think you can. No great collection has ever been bought that way, and no great profits were ever made that way. It’s a matter of passion. Only one in 10 artists that are bought by the major collectors is going to be a super star, and that’s if you’re clued in. It’s like waves of music: you get punk music, new wave, etcetera, but how many become historic in the long term? That’s what holds its value in the blue chip market. What do you think of Indonesian art? I love Indonesian art. I was just in Yogyakarta attending a lecture by Tony Godfrey, the art writer and thinker, who was associated with Sotheby’s in London. He moved to Singapore to concentrate on Southeast Asian Art. He wrote two books of the most noted works on conceptual art, which pretty much defined the topic from the writer’s perspective. Also I went to the opening of a large-scale non-profit art space, and then another that’s being built. So Jogja is about to have quite an art scene.
Do you think your work would be different if you were still in a studio in New York, as opposed to Bali? Yeah of course, I can put that in a nutshell. When I came here I was doing these very, very strange paintings, nothing like my work before. People thought it was because I had moved to this strange new island, like the Island of Doctor Moreau or something. The fact is I had planned an entire show and I just came here to work on it. In order to do the kind of work I do, I need isolation. I wanted desperately not to be in any way confused with the idea of Gauguin escapism. So I built myself a studio purposely with white walls and concrete floor that could be anywhere, and I made every effort not to conform whatsoever to the dialog here. Before that I hadn’t come to terms with contemporary Indonesian art. I wasn’t even aware that there was any. It was only in 2004 that I realized I had shifted – change had come against my will, seeping through the cracks. Suddenly the pallet had shifted. So Bali did get to you in the long run? I was completely influenced by the Batuan school, by the likes of Made Budi and classic art works with all the little figures in them and the sliver of sky at the top. I had somehow been deeply influenced, everything shifted. In my struggle to avoid it, I did a magnificent job and turned into it. I had avoided what I really detested, which was that sort of hackery. Once that had been realized, and that precedent had been set up, then other things came. The elephant had been sitting in the room the whole time. So finally I said I was ready to deal with these ghosts that haunted me, but only on my terms, which are strictly post modern. Ashley, thanks for your time.
Extradition with Computer Framed.
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Tracey Tomtene's photography speaks to the global peripatetic soul.
Tracey, what does photography mean to you? I had always expressed myself through acrylic painting but knew I was no Friday Kahlo. So I played it safe and studied Business whilst filling my electives with Fine Arts in university. In the last semester of my degree, I took a darkroom photography course and realized how expressive one could be with a camera, therein discovering my new paintbrush. After six years working in the corporate world, taking night courses in digital photography and embarking on short travelling photo expeditions when I could, I quit my 'real job' as a Communications Manager in February, 2008, and set off for SE Asia. This marked the beginning of my career as a full time photographer and essentially a new lifeblood. I often think of the people I would not have conversed with and the places I may not have traversed if I didn't have this fire inside. Being a photographer has connected me to amazing people and places, transformed me into a curious wanderer and allowed me to see the world with eyes
wide open. Richard Avedon said it best: “And if a day goes by without my doing something related to photography, it's as though I've neglected something essential to my existence, as though I had forgotten to wake up. I know that the accident of my being a photographer has made my life possible.� Where are you based, and how is Bali viewed in your corner of the world? Vancouver, British Columbia is my base city at the moment, but I'm looking for a change. Shanghai and New York are high on my list! I think Bali is a bit of a mystery for many of us in the west...an exotic place in a far off land that one only dreams of travelling to. The gregarious people, fascinating culture and exquisite landscape can be depicted in pictures somewhat but I've always said that one really must go to Bali to experience the magic that lingers there. What are some of the misconceptions about the countries to which you travel to shoot? I think the most common misconception before leaving for SE Asia was that I
wouldn't be safe as a female travelling alone. But on the contrary, I felt safer there than I do in most North American cities. When did you first pick up a camera? I always had a camera growing up but it was more about preserving memories of friends and family. My parents took pictures and video of virtually every important moment in my life. There are storage closets brimming with 8mm film, Beta tapes and polaroids. So they may have influenced my need to document a little! Having a pretty sentimental side, it gives me comfort knowing these fleeting moments in life can be captured and revisited over and over again, instead of slipping into the subliminal abyss of my memory. Have you always shot in digital, or did you start out in film? The darkroom course I took in university was strictly film. I had to make a pinhole camera from scratch as my first official photographic device. This helped me to thoroughly comprehend exposure, shutter speed and depth of field. I could spend all night in the darkroom engrossed in making
Uluwatu, Bali.
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Top left: Top of Empire, NY. Left: Empire State Building, NY. Right: Top of the Rock, NY.
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the perfect print, messing with dyes and cheese cloths...burning and dodging, pushing and pulling. I shot with film for three years until my camera was stolen in 2005, so I made the switch then. Digital has made my life easier in a lot of ways, but I still long for those experimental, dare I say romantic, nights in the darkroom. What do you shoot with when you are travelling? Camera: Canon 50D Lenses: Canon 50mm f/1.8 II, Canon 1635mm f/2.8 LII, Tokina 12-24 f/4.0, Canon 24-70mm f2.8 L, Canon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS Flash: Canon Speedlite 430EX Tripod: Manfrotto 190 b Audio: M-AUDIO Microtrack II I shoot wide much of the time, especially for street photography as seen in my NY images and use a telephoto for shooting surfing. I rarely take my tripod or flash and usually choose just one or two lenses as I prefer to travel as light as possible. I also have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 when I want to shoot video or don't feel like schlepping a heavy DSLR. My IDEAL camera kit would be a Canon 5DII with a 7D as a back up and a few good prime lenses. Dreamy. What software do you use for colouring
Dreamland, Bali.
and retouch? I use Lightroom to import, catalogue, rate, keyword, caption, post process and export. I bring images into Photoshop here and there but for the most part Lightroom has everything I need as a photographer. As I am starting to shoot more video, I use iMovie to compile photos, video and audio for short multimedia pieces. Your images are 'feel-good' in that your pictures often portray romantic situations and places. Do you ever document suffering? I'm very active in supporting animal rights and environmental issues and always searching for ways to make an impact. One of the reasons why I name Asia as a place I'd like to live is because of the dolphin slaughter happening in Japan and much of the consumer base for shark fin soup thrives in China; two issues that lay dear to my heart. James Nachtwey describes using photography as a tool to "shake people out of their indifference - to protest and by the strength of that protest to make others protest." Images speak louder than words in many cases and I'd like use that power to make a difference somehow. I am also inspired by Nick Brandt, a fine art photographer, who documents the vanishing beauty of the
animals and landscape in East Africa in a way that is awe-inspiring and demands attention. Ideally, I would like to work with environmental organizations such as Sea Shepherd, Wild Asia, Greenpeace and shoot for magazines like Earth Island Journal and National Geographic. What are the qualities you look for in a good photograph? Photographing what you feel instead of just what you see is something I learned from taking a workshop with David Alan Harvey. Photographs are a reflection of the person taking them; a mirror to who we are and what's going on inside. Ultimately, if the image tells a story, evokes an emotion, conjures up a memory or a dream, starts a conversation or just creates some good old ocular bliss, that photograph has succeeded. Do you plan your shots, or is it a question of 'see it, shoot it'? Life...as it happens. I prefer spontaneity. It's a thrill to discover for yourself what Bresson meant by the decisive moment. "Your eye must see a composition or an expression that life itself offers you, and you must know with intuition when to click the camera. That is the moment the photographer is creative. Oop! The Moment! Once you miss it, it is...
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Kuta Beach, Bali.
Luang Prabang, Laos.
North Shore, Hawaii.
Rockaway Beach, NY.
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Top left: Bangkok, Thailand. Left: Hanoi, Vietnam. Right: Kuta Beach, Bali.
...gone forever. " – Henri Cartier-Bresson, 1957. Photography as 'art' is a difficult commercial medium. There are probably more profitable careers to follow... How much of your time in photography is spent not using a camera? Quite a lot unfortunately. Much of my time is spent in front of my laptop editing, key wording, captioning, organizing and backing up hard drives, marketing myself, learning about new technologies, what other photogs are shooting and what's happening in the industry. I also freelance as a business writer. I do love every aspect
of my career, but like most photographers, I would always rather be out shooting. If there is a single message in your work, what is it? I believe there is art in every living moment...spontaneous moments balanced by a quiet affinity and the profundity to be found in even the most fleeting, everyday occurrence. The most banal occurrence has the potential for iconicity. Where do you next plan to travel? I am very interested in the religion and culture of surfers and their connection to the ocean, so am hoping to visit Hawaii
again and possibly Chile, early in the new year. More photographic expeditions will be planned through South America, India, Asia, Africa, Europe and definitely back to Bali someday too. In the words of Susan Sontag, “I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list.” And lastly, how can we view more of your work? My website is www.traceytomtene.com. From there, you can link to my blog and photo gallery.
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Whether it's a trekking base from which to begin early morning walks or a bijou bolthole where you can knock
back Kaffir Mango Mojitos, Katie Truman's guide to simple, cozy, boutique places to stay in Ubud is a how-to guide to the cutest digs this side of the magic volcano.
Waka di Ume.
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Waka di Ume.
Waka di Ume Once you leave downtown and head up Jalan Suweta, you’ll encounter the sweeping rice fields and distant volcano views for which Ubud is famed. It’s also a strong selling point for Waka di Ume, also located here. In fact, the 18 varied accommodation scattered down a gentle hillside all offer scenic rice field views from their private porches. Stone steps lead further down towards the forested river bank, where hidden amongst the coconut trees are a luxurious, three-storey spa, Zen-infused yoga room, wedding chapel and dramatic-drop, twotier pool. All the well-appointed accommodation is light and airy, emphasising natural materials. Interiors are very contemporary Balinese, with use of distressed blond woods and stylish soft furnishings. Among the pool villas, la piece de la resistance is the massive, three-bedroom villa with private infinity-edge pool on raised deck, a new addition last year. As well as yoga classes and spa treatments, other distractions include private cooking lessons in an open-air rustic kitchen, rice paddy trekking and romantic dining a deux in the bale pavilion – both positioned beside rice fields and duck ponds. If you want the same boutique Waka style (there’s six Bali Waka properties), but closer to town, Waka Namya is located in artists hub, Penestanan. Thus, this charming 15-room property offers a more culture and arts emphasis. www.wakadiumeubud.com www.wakanamya.com Cinta Inn An antithesis of Ubud's traditional-style properties, Cinta Inn introduced a stylish new generation of boutique hotels, opening August, 2010. Slap bang in the middle of Monkey Forest Road, just behind Cinta Grill, Cinta Inn is urban chic personified and an unexpected oasis, with seven balconied rooms framing a natural stone pool. Rejecting the usual trad ambience, rooms are slick contemporary, with coffee brown wood furniture and ultra-modern bathrooms with tropical rain shower and bathtub. With the savvy traveller in mind, functional comforts include 32-inch flat panel TV (with 350-plus channels!) DVD player and iPod dock, plus WiFi access. King Coil mattresses, fluffy pillows and high thread count cotton bedding ensure an outrageously good night's sleep. Thoughtful touches include personal reading spotlights above the bed and well-lit bathroom mirrors. Rooms may resemble something from the big metropolis, but Balinese roots aren’t all forgotten, referenced with black and white photographs of old Bali and carved wood antique pieces decorating the open-air lobby. Cinta Inn is just a roll out of bed from complimentary breakfasts served at Cinta Grill; a la carte options include raspberry and ricotta pancakes. Conceived and designed by the owners of Cinta Grill and Bali Good Food, guests can enjoy a 15 per cent discount off here and other BGF dining venues. A bijou bolt-hole, you may just want to quietly knock back Kaffir Mango Mojitos beside the pool. www.cintainn.com
Tepi Sawah, Ubud.
Waka di Ume.
Villa Bebek Tepi Sawah Arts aficionados and culture vultures will adore this sanctuary-like boutique hotel, situated just off Peliatan’s main road. The acclaimed Nyoman Sumerta Fine Arts Gallery, from which the villa accommodation organically grew, is the impressive gateway, a sprawling gallery showcasing art and sculpture from mainly local Balinese painters. Seventeen villa-guestrooms are traditional-style Balinese (while providing all modern comforts, including flat screen satellite TV and DVD player), with their own wooden door gates and small garden. Each villa
Cinta Inn.
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is themed and named after Ubud’s various villages. Striking art works from the gallery tastefully adorn the walls; these and unique pieces crafted by Ubud’s arts community – including furniture, antiques and objets – can be purchased by guests. Additionally, the hotel supports local artists and hosts hands-on cultural activities, like temple offerings and painting and wood-carving classes. Several villas look out over verdant rice fields – Tepi Sawah translates as ‘side of the rice field’. And if you dine at the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant (enjoy lunchtime crispy duck and traditional dance performances), you can dine in bales right amongst the rice fields. With weathered, moss engulfed stone, atmospheric gardens and temple-like bathing area, the expansive grounds look ancient, but surprisingly, were constructed as recently as 2005. Always popular, especially with the French contingent, accommodation will expand to 25 rooms in 2011. www.tepisawahvillas.com Honeymoon Guesthouse Honeymoon Guesthouse is a nostalgic throw back to Ubud’s guesthouses of the early '90s; which figures, as this
Honeymoon Guesthouse.
delightful property is one of Ubud's originals. Janet De Neefe, founder of the Casa Luna empire, spent her honeymoon here two decades ago with her Balinese husband. From a handful of original rooms in the late 1980s, they have expanded this to a 19-room guesthouse. In a lovely twist, today Janet and family reside here...obviously too good to leave. Located on the quieter confines of Jalan Bisma, Honeymoon Guesthouse emphasises traditional Balinese charm and faithfully preserves local culture and hospitality. Zen-style grounds feature stone statues, bales and pebble paths, while traditional-style rooms are beautifully simplistic, with carved wood wall screens and marble floors. Don't expect any modern-day paraphernalia like TVs (although WiFi is available); even the elegant saltwater pool resembles ancient royal baths. Staff are like part of the family and guests faithfully return year after year. Breakfast is a highlight: a custom-order affair served on each spacious balcony at a chosen time, with yummy choices like coconut and banana crepes, oven-roasted muesli and fresh pastries and breads direct from the next door Honeymoon Bakery. The latter also supplies famed Casa Luna Restaurant (you can order food from their menu here). A similar second Honeymoon Guesthouse opened
Tepi Sawah.
Komaneka at Monkey Forest.
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opposite in 2007; home to Casa Luna Cooking School, the 14 rooms adhere to the same charming style – more are planned later this year. www.casalunabali.com Komaneka at Monkey Forest Unlike young upstart Cinta Inn, neighbour Komaneka opened in 1998 on Monkey Forest Road. Originally grown from an art gallery (owner is Koman is the son of the Neka Art Museum owner, hence the name), much development has occurred along this now choc-a-bloc central artery. But as one of the older accommodation properties, Komaneka grounds are surprisingly spacious, offering a sprawling boutique hotel in the heart of downtown. Some guestrooms, like one-bedroom pool villas, still offer rice field views. With a layout designed to resemble a Balinese village, a stone pathway cuts through manicured gardens revealing 20 guestrooms, a double-storey spa building – curiously Japanese influenced – and infinity-edge pool beside a river. The varied accommodation all offer contemporary interpretations of traditional Balinese style, subtly emphasizing natural materials and art and incorporating outdoor showers in private gardens. Striking art works from Komaneka Gallery (located at the hotel entrance) tastefully adorn the white walls. But creature comforts are provided, from flat screen TVs and DVD players to kimonos and thoughtful touches include a welcome basket of spa goodies. With its central location, seamless blend of old and new, plus distinctly personalized service, Komaneka welcomes back many repeat guests. At present, there are three Ubud Komaneka properties: a fourth and more contemporary-style hotel, will open later this year, also on Monkey Forest Road. www.komaneka.com Sunny Blow (Villa Jepun) Across the road from Neka Art Museum, through narrow wooden gates, and you magically enter pretty gardens and old Balinese charm. This is Sunny Blow: eight, traditionalstyle cottages strung alongside a stone walkway, shaded with tropical blooms and fragrant trees. The quirky name derives from the owner’s company, a Japanese businesswoman (sunny, blow, why not?) who established this charming accommodation in 2000. The small reception area and adjoining bar are littered with her stash of vintage and antique objets. The standard or larger, deluxe (stand alone) cottages all
ooze Balinese rustic, featuring natural materials like bamboo, alang-alang and woven fibres. Beds are four poster wood frames with mosquito nets and most rooms feature openair bathrooms. Tasteful artifacts and decor are personally selected. Following the native style, there's no TV, phone, nor aircon; the only modern concession is WiFi access. Instead, laze around on the large wood porch and savour the lush green foliage and quiet. In striking contrast, Ubud's hip new Japanese restaurant, Minami, is conveniently just a pebble throw away in the grounds. The brainchild of Miho, the owner’s daughter, Minami is contemporary stylish, with chic lounge-bar section and open-air dining veranda, facing the gardens. Taking the cliché out of standard Japanese restaurants, Minami prides itself on delicious, home-style cooking with fresh ingredients and organic vegetables. Simple tastes, presentation and attention to detail are key ingredients: throw in on-site lovely staff and no wonder Minami has gained rapid popularity. www.sunny-blow.com www.minami-bali.com Villa Sabandari A five-minute drive from central Ubud, up a private road in Peliatan et voila! you’re in amongst endless rice fields and rural communities. For those craving this idyllic landscape of Ubud’s past, but not wishing to forgo any downtown action, Villa Sabandari is ideal… well, more than ideal. Named after his Indonesian wife, Sabandar, the Belgium owner has poured his heart, soul and copious attention to detail in this luxurious six-bedroom hideaway, opened January, 2010. Resembling a modern Balinese compound, the two, double storey villas and two ground floor rooms, spacious open-air pavilion living room area and slick spa all frame a striking infinity-edge pool, overlooking surrounding rice fields and coconut palms. The beautifully appointed rooms are contemporary Balinese with a slew of thoughtfully provided amenities (although, bar one room, no TVs), open-air tropical rain showers and use of top-notch Indonesian natural materials, like Suar woods and sandstone. All have spacious porches and temptingly comfy daybeds, perfect to enjoy the generous complimentary breakfasts and afternoon teas. Hands-on owner Dirk also provides guests with free mountain bikes, WiFi access, 15-minute welcome massage at the spa and for those that can tear themselves away, a personalized shuttle bus service into town. Note that in this peaceful rural setting, families with children are not encouraged. www.sabandari.com
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January, February, March 2011
The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.
Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie. 39
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Victor Mason blows his mind on Blue Meanies, and nothing is ever the same again.
The monster came lumbering up the beach. Grabbing my bins off the bar, I beheld a red tin box mounted on four outsize wheels clearly heading in my direction. The face at the controls looked familiar. My friend Fritz, chef of the Bali Beach. “What the hell is that if I may ask?” I’d never seen anything like it. “You mean to tell me you’ve never seen a dune-buggy before?” said Fritz, downing his first beer in one. “Just arrived. I drove it down from Surabaya yesterday. Want to come for a drive?”. “No thanks,” I said, and I meant it. Sitting on the other side of the bar, which was rectangular in shape, were two newly arrived guests – an English couple. Their young son emerged from the ocean and hastened to inspect the scarlet monster. “Gosh, could I have a go?” he exclaimed excitedly. “Hop in,” invited the ever-obliging Fritz, and took the ecstatic lad for a spin. Chatting to the couple opposite, I learned that the father of the young joy-rider was a zoologist on a sabbatical from one of England’s modern universities. I hadn’t enquired as to what he did, which would have been the height of impertinence. Pointedly he’d expressed an interest in my glasses, and I took delight in showing him a sunbird that was foraging in a coco poking through the bar canopy. It’s funny how you invariably spot the best birds with a glass in your hand. When Fritz returned with the elated
lad in tow a short while later, the English couple were kind enough to shout a round of beers. Then they drifted off. Fritz too had to go and check that his kitchen was still functioning. Before leaving he downed a final beer, then he asked me a question I shall never forget. I hear him now distinctly, though I won’t attempt to render phonetically the clipped Germanic accent. Have becomes haf, the sounds more like zee, and well is vell as vell can be. You know the sort of thing. “Victor, have you tried the mushrooms?” I’d no idea what he was
talking about. “You know – the magic mushrooms.” “No, I can’t say that I have.” “Well, you should try them.” “Oh yes?” “Yes. See here!” Whereupon he pulled out of his pocket a cellophane bag which contained an indefinable mass of something that resembled nothing
familiar, and certainly didn’t appear to be edible. “What are you doing this afternoon?” Fritz continued. I couldn’t think of anything in particular, but that was probably because I’d had five or six beers. “I tell you what,” said Fritz. “Take these mushrooms now!” It sounded like an order. He handed the bag over. “You can take them in the soufflé, or the omelette, or the soup.” This last sounded like zoop; and I could feel the spray from it. “Or you can take them on the toast. But, let me tell you, the best way to take them is to eat them raw!” He had attained a crescendo, and his raw was much like the roar of a tiger. “And eat them with the beer drinking,” were Fritz’s final words as he clambered into the scarlet monster and sped off down the beach. Well, I thought, why not? After all Fritz is Bali’s top chef – aside from sous-chef Gunther the only one in fact – he must know what he’s talking about. Let’s give it a go. I pulled up a rattan chaise-longue in the shade of a tjamplung tree, ordered a fresh beer, put my feet up, and opened the bag. Not altogether prepossessing the contents I must say. A mess of longstemmed toadstools with mushy black gills and caps tinged bluish. They had a slightly sinister aspect. I took a handful and popped them in my mouth. Really rather disgusting : Fritz had certainly got one thing right – the only way to swallow ...continued on page 40.
Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...
A ADVENTURE Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife). Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-birdpark.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. Bali Bird Walks Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk
around the Campuhan hills. Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33 Ubud. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali. ANTIQUES Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best
The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region. ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates. ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS
shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums. Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.
3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations. Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and
readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists. Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Map Ref: X.10 Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm.
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these things was to wash them down with beer. At intervals during the next twenty minutes or so I dipped my hand in the bag, and swilled pilsner the while. A final one for the road. The bag was empty. Nothing happened. I stretched out and surveyed the scene before me. The long sandy beach afforded an unobstructed view of the multistoreyed edifice looming half a mile away. There were no intervening constructions of any kind, save Le Mayeur’s widow Polok’s place and a couple of lumbungs at Sindhu Beach, but these were tucked away discreetly behind beachside vegetation. Not a sign of anyone. Not a breath of breeze. Everything seemed strangely silent and restful – but perfectly normal. Then I noticed two figures clad in red coming from the hotel. All red, from tip to toe. That did look rather odd. There came a thrum, high-pitched, persistent – a queer vibration in the air. I looked again. The figures vanished, and behind the empty space where they had been, the whole horizon seemed to slide away. And now I could see the green blockhouse walls greatly inclined, so that inevitably they must crumble. Like the scene from the tale of the Brothers Grimm, when the wretched fisherman implores the magic flounder to let his wife become the good Lord, the sea at once turned pitchy and turbulent, the sky blacker still and rent by lightning mainly green and yellow. The transformation was terrifyingly swift and overpowering. With senses reeling, I closed my eyes against the impending maelstrom, and surrendered myself to delirium. It is impossible to describe what happened next or to gauge the span of my sundered consciousness. If I was conscious of anything at all that
awesome afternoon, it was a dreadful apprehension of some elemental stroke or cataclysm – maybe not mortal, but a critical consummation. Apocalyptic perhaps. Fearful of opening my eyes, for the havoc so palpably wreaked about me, I may not have actually seen, rather imagined, the chariots of fire, drawn by winged steeds, that descended from the Heavens, expressly to spirit me away. There were three abreast, that in the centre hovering and slightly inclined, and clearly inviting
me to mount, then ascend in it to some unknown destination or dimension, God alone knew where. Whither I was transported, and what befell me in the course of my journey, I cannot say. Certes resolution was in store. At a terminative stage or juncture, I was made aware of an immediate immanence more dreadful than anything that had gone before. Lowering over me were two monstrous figures, male and female, the former bilious green with livid blotches, the latter invested with violet and blue. Both
were phosphorescent – radiantly so – with fiery eyes and sparkling hair. I knew then that these were fiends ordained to torment me. The green giant leered and smirked horribly, and I recoiled from his demonic fangs, dripping and yellow. And a torrent of sparks continued to rain down, enveloping me, so that I too appeared to be on fire. Yet some mental process lurking in the recesses of what remained of my shattered brain informed me that – one – I had consumed a mess of mushrooms – two – the probability of my having overdosed on psilocybin was high, therefore – three – I was undoubtedly tripping, and – four – the face of the oscillating green hulk was familiar to me. It took a while to register, and then it all came back to me in a flash. Highly recommended for a top managerial post by the friendly agent of a regional airline, this scion of one of Bali’s most prominent families had been appointed by me to attend an interview that very afternoon. And here he was, accompanied by his charming wife, whose father just happened to be the chairman of the board of patrons of the leading political party in Indonesia. And there was I, prostrate, hallucinating wildly, and totally off my rocker. Certainly in no fit state to conduct an interview, let alone hold a meaningful discourse, with any human being, or hominid, or tree. By a supreme effort I was able to convey to my spectral visitors that, for reasons unspecified, I was unable to attend to them at that precise moment. Furthermore, I somehow managed to recall my earlier suggestion that they bring with them their bathers. My voice, which was ventriloquial, seeming to ...continued on page 42.
Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls. Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng, Ubud Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 . Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist.
Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road.
Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays. Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136.
www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting. Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.com Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one
of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community. Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark
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emanate from some source a million miles away, must have indicated the request that they go and jump in the ocean. Whatever the implication, they complied with good grace, and I had the satisfaction of seeing their respective aurae, blue and green, trailing a phosphorescent wake in a sea that had now turned sepia. But straightway a first wave of nausea swept over me and I staggered across an undulating swath of silvery sand to the ladies loo beside the restaurant. Luckily, no ladies were present – nor anyone else for that matter, save a witch with gleaming golden eyes who appeared to have taken over the bar, and a grotesque satyr brandishing a trident in the borders, who was a ridiculous caricature of Lanus the gardener. Enthroned in solitary splendour for an interminable interval, feeling anything but splendid, while the tiled floor reeled and spun and the walls pulsed around me, I made a solemn vow to renounce psychedelia for the duration. When I returned to my littoral bower, the wind had got up a bit and the sun was still shining brightly, though the sea and sky remained equally inky. The demons familiar had dispersed. I fell into my couch, feeling mildly relieved, and closed my eyes. But my travail was far from over. It may have been an hour or two later that I became once more aware of a peculiar – yet familiar – presence towering over me. Through the gloaming I strained to discern the mobile features of the zoologist, whose acquaintance I had made at a time of relative sobriety. He seemed more anxious even than I.
“There’s a huge spider in the barbeque pit,” he intoned. “My son’s just seen it, and he’s very frightened. Could you please remove it?” This was rather rich I felt, insofar as I could feel anything, coming from a man who was a self-proclaimed specialist in all forms of animal life. I still had difficulty standing up on the rippling sand. The setting sun cast menacing shadows in which all manner of beast might lurk. Everywhere I looked, I could see giant spiders, crouching, watchful, ready to pounce. And every bush and tree
was peopled with strange inhabitants, eyes staring, misshapen limbs beckoning, like those you see in fairy-tale books, illustrated by Arthur Rackham. The barbecue pit was a walled circular enclosure situated a few yards away from the beach-front bar. I don’t think we’d had occasion to use it for a while. Its aspect was less than inviting, and there was an air of dereliction about it. Devil-may-care I sauntered – nay stumbled – in. One spider more or less was of little consequence. Father and son hovered outside, fretting and pointing.
I soon saw the thing. Of all the multitude of spiders populating my twilight zone at that instant, this one looked real enough. It was huge and black and malignant. Too huge actually. On closer examination, even I could see that it was nothing but a dried and twisted leaf of the tjamplung tree. I picked it up and held it out towards the boy, who shrieked and ran. The zoologist made some uncomplimentary remark, but I was beyond caring. I’d had enough – more than – and without further ado tottered off, and went to bed. I wondered afterwards whether the zoologist, being aware of my condition, was simply sending me up. However, I don’t think that was the case. Perhaps he was more of a desk than a field man, and spiders weren’t his forte. At lunchtime the following day, I was about ready for a recuperative pils. Some semblance of normality had returned, though I knew that nothing would ever be quite the same again. The scarlet monster came chugging up. “Well, how did you find the mushrooms?” Fritz enquired. I told him. “What!” he roared. “You ate all of them!? You crazy Englishman!” Oh yes, there was a happy ending. The interviewee of the moment did take up the post I’d offered him. He - bless him – thought my behaviour only mildly eccentric. His missus became our housekeeper and personnel manager. By then they had ceased to fizz and sparkle, resuming their normal complexion and appearance. Or so it seemed to me – then.
BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men. Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh Ubud. Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.com Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas. TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses.
Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building.
every sale to support the work of FNPF.
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Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit. W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977978. pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of
Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is mod-Australian inspired – that is, fresh produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an open-plan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day. Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832 Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets
and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite secret hangouts. Lterary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month. Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975354. Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one. Flava Lounge Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-972953. www.flavaloungebali.com Young, hip and urban (or as urban as one can be in Ubud) yet with a holistic feel. Comfy seating, shisha pipes and free WiFi that mixes well with the juices, the cocktails and café style menu.
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Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng, Ubud. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at Han Snel Gallery a distinctly convivial atmosphere...it's easy to imagine the late artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ sayan Sophistication is the name of the game here (unsurprisingly given the Four Seasons brand). Perched atop the breathtaking Sayan Ridge, the vibe is mystically romantic. World-class views and flavours. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm. Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com
Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance. The manager is
Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud, Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot. com When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks. Terazzo Jl. Suweta, Ubud Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere. BOOK SHOPS
a chap called Rakesh, a man possessed of devilishy suave sub continental aplomb. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).
Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here. Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud & Bintang Supermarket, Campuhan and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here.
Boutiques Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion just opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in. Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18 Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion. This petite boutique will outfit the under 9s in ultra-chic elegant (boutique for boys and girls) thankfully age appropriate day wear Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles. All dresses, sarongs, shirts and scarves at Divya – which is part of Nomad Restaurant on Ubud Main Street – are individually hand made using the ‘batik tulis’ process, which means patterns are hand-drawn and
CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. painted. Prices range from $70 to $180. Each piece is entirely original – no mass produced cottons here.
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BOTANIC GARDENS
Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com
Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours. com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display. Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7463389. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.
CAVIAR & CHAMPAGNE
with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil. COOKING CLASSES Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food.
Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic. COCKFIGHTING Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted
Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor
lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Each session includes a lavish Balinese feast with complete class notes. Guests of the Honeymoon Guesthouses receive a 10% discount on all cooking classes. Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen
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DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance.
where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www. kupubarongubud. com Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow. Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17
In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your
Balinese culinary education. The Secret Garden Cooking School Penestanan Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com One and two-day hands-on intensive courses will allow you to learn, understand and appreciate Balinese cooking at its best.
Clinics Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the
beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. CRAFTS Indigo Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories. Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.6
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Whilst one half of Macan Tidur (otherwise known as Sleeping Tiger) is for exquisite antiques, the other half supports local craftsmen to continue their creative traditions whilst also supporting innovations. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. On the hill that leads to cocktails or culture – just steps away from Naughty Nuri’s and the Neka Museum. Sayan Square Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 081236 806100. A one-stop shop where you can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule. Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.
D DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.
E ECO Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armaresort.com
This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung...and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one
of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape. The Linda Garland Estate Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974017. Linda@indosat.net.id Linda Garland’s worldrenowned river-estate is an amazing tribute to the potential of bamboo in all its forms. Mick Jagger loved this place so much he got married here...well sort of. The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org. A powerful community jointventure school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee. Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.
F FESTIVALS Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music
held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event. Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival.com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.
G GLASS Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder
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Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm. GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).
H HEALTH Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Taking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha – there are two native healers more or less in residence – and to Living Foods with Sakti, their fine dining vegan restaurant. With eight healing rooms, a
beauty sanctuary, five suites for residential healing, two pools – for Watsu and Healing water dancing – a laboratory, meeting rooms and a myriad of curative treatments Fivelements is going 'deeper', way deeper, than others on Bali have gone before. Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.com Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high
HELICOPTERS Air Bali Dewa Ruci Building No. 2 Simpang Siur, By Pass Ngurah Rai, Kuta. Tel: (24 Hour hotline) +62 813 3876 9756 or +62 812 3836 321. www.airbali.com Sky tours, volcano flights, aerial photography…or maybe you just need to get up to Ubud in a hurry. Air Bali’s helicopter service covers the bases. Landing pad at The Viceroy Bali.
Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA.
Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975017. Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973381. HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com
HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com
quality standard for energetic treatments. Open Monday – Saturday from 10:30 – 7:30 pm
www.baliswasti.com
Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366. www.alamidahbali.com Padi Prada Suite – Resto – Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972 & 970979. www.balihotels.com/ubud/ padiprada.php Sania`s House Jl. Karna 7, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975535. Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079.
Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41011. www.alilahotels.com One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches on one side of the Ayung River valley. Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-894 6388. www.alilahotels.com/soori Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed
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Are you a giver or a taker, asks Nicky Kassapian? Commitment – the act of binding yourself (intellectually or emotionally) to a course of action; "his long commitment to public service"; "they felt no loyalty to a losing team" Syn; allegiance, loyalty, dedication. Here's some other C's to consider: Contract – make one with yourself. Commit – to yourself. So it’s the start of another year and what kind of contracts have you made with yourself? To stop a habit perhaps? To drop a pattern? To do something healthy – fitness, meditation, walking? To start giving more? To take / expect / demand less? To be a better person? To take up a new creative pursuit? Whatever it is you will need to be motivated and direct your will power to achieve your intentions. Deciding to commit to something for someone else is a double-edged sword. If you are totally transparent with them and yourself, as well as clear about your motivation, then you probably stand a chance of succeeding and will be supported to do so too. This means communicating what you need to yourself and to the other person clearly and fully. However, pitfall No. 1: If you are actually doing it so that someone will give you something...approval, respect, or so they will stay with you, love you more, give you what you want and so forth, then you have just shot yourself in the foot and entered into the blame game. What? How? Well if this other person doesn’t know what your expectation is regarding their response to your actions and for some reason or another they fall short, then hey, ho you can forgo your commitment and it’s their fault. That nice little package is
called self sabotage and the identity you are playing is Victim. Pitfall No. 2: Deciding that you want to become fitter, and then never making it off the sofa to the gym, beach, cycle track and so forth, is a totally misaligned effort. Make a commitment to yourself that is something YOU really want to do for your own feel good factor. Make sure it’s an achievable goal. Look at all the doubts you have around it
and then break down each doubt piece by piece until its gone and then go on to the next one. There are lots of techniques to help you to do this and lots of practitioners on the island and around the world who can assist you. First acknowledge your self-limiting beliefs and then look for evidence to prove it…make sure the proof is not caused by the belief itself. Beliefs come before your experience so whatever you are experiencing is coming from the beliefs you hold. Get with the programme of self empowerment and clean up your own belief files and start achieving what is actually important to you.
Pitfall No. 3: Promising yourself you will do something and then not doing it. Every time we do not honour an agreement – in reality a contract – we have made with ourselves we are creating a major energy drain. A leaky bucket now has more leaks and not only this but our self esteem will drop as well. The negative self-talk will increase and then trying to get up off the sofa to do what you said you would do will be even more of a challenge. This is a classic example of giving to your self and then taking something away. The fundamental thing you have taken away is self respect. So please this year do yourself justice, commit to something for yourself and do everyone else a favour: make whatever it is make you a happier, kinder and more open being. This is how you become a giver rather than a taker. Giving with expectations is actually being a taker not a giver. Giving freely just is. Remember we are all humans and our society looks suspiciously at someone who gives without expecting anything in return. Now that is a pretty sad state for a society to be in, really. The art of giving can change your whole outlook on life and make the lives of others change too. If you commit to anything this year, deciding to be a giver without strings attached would be a really good one to go for. And this is not just about giving financial gifts to charities. It’s also about giving people you meet your undivided attention. Put the phone away, put it on silent and BE with your friend. Then there is smiling as you walk or drive down the street, BE where you are and BE what you would like to see. Life is great so NOW is the only time you have to enjoy it and in doing so to be the best that you can be.
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OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.
beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea and paddy fields, while still maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas. Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour in-villa dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alila’s signature bath amenities. Amandari Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat.
Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armaresort.com ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape. Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com
Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities. Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com
Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Guests can also order delicious meals from the extensive menu of the Casa Luna Restaurant, part of the same organisation under Ubud’s own Janet De Neefe.
Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com
Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com
Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com.
Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.
Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com. The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna
Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Cinta Inn will be opening this
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month behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn. The pool is cool too. Rates +/- USD125 include selections from Cinta Grill's awesome breakfast menu. COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a worldclass spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other. This eco-friendly healing centre, crafted from sustainable bamboo, is located on the banks of the Ayung river and offers a unique visitation into the Balinese world of traditional
healing, set on the edge of a verdant, tropical forest. Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ sayan/ One of the most famous of Bali’s hotels as almost every year Condé Nast or some other venerable travel magazine nominates it for its fabulosity or service. Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com Furama’s first resort property, Furama Villas & Spa Ubud is set amidst an expanse of serene rice fields, framed by the majestic Mount Batur.
Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley. Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com
Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel.
Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked. Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence. Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and
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verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants). Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com
Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya, Ubud, Bali. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back!
Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property.
Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com
Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com
Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com
Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com
Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan PO Box 141, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com
Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak, Ubud. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com Rumah Rio Jl. Suweta No.24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978773. www.rumahrio.com Private villas for rent in the heart of Ubud.
SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan Ubud. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973610 www.thesamayabali.com A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chic-est valley, Sayan. A restaurant at the top of the property commands fabulous views over the entire gorge while each of the villas – built in to the hillside - has its own swimming pool. Expect first class service from a well-trained staff, modern minimalist interiors, world class cuisine and an
exceptional spa. And then of course there is the glory of your surrounds, perfect for bird walking, cultural exploration or just relaxing. Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it. Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.com Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool. Each room is designed with style and comfort in mind: the furniture is hand-picked and Colonial to suit the mood of this relaxed mid-range property. Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud,
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NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets. Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinesestyle accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists. The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’. The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com
A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime. The Linda Garland Estate Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974028. www.lindagarland.com The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: K1 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants)
The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An relative newcomer to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area. Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com
Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views
of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style. Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat
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following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing. Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan, Ubud Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com
Set in rice paddy just north of Ubud, it ranks as one of the areas nicest places to stay. Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.
Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Mawang Kelod, Lodtunduh, Ubud. Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl
J JEWELRY
Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. The view from the balcony terraces and bathrooms is totally memorable. Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group.
Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 971430. Map ref: K.10 www.galaxyanjewels.com The Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons. The collection includes bracelets, necklaces, anklets and accessories. This very intricate weaving process was employed in the past to make gold woven jewelry for maraharajas and nobles of the Orient, but through Galaxyan
it is now available for you too! Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976084. www.gemalabalisilver.com JFF Jewelry Jl. Suweta No. 6, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972078. www.jf-f.com Map Ref: I.8 Jean Francois Fichot, jeweller extraordinaire who exhibits world-wide, has long attracted the A list to his style of design and art. He blends, moulds and crafts everyday things found in nature into intricate pieces of art. JFF’s gold earrings, rings and necklaces create not only conversations but jealousies too. Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.com Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes. Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978513. www.yanvan.com Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)! Using rubber and silver as his ‘signature take’ on adorning the opposite sex, Yan Van’s unique pieces
are masculine yet thankfully not overly biker-ish.
K KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’. KIDS See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.
L LIVE JAZZ Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a
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deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975354. Head to the base of Monkey Forest hill and Coffee & Silver for live music on Saturday's Sunday's and Tuesday. The action starts at 7pm. Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya, Ubud Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Their inviting, intimate venue is perfect for birthdays, anniversaries, wedding parties and other special events. Great bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music from 7.30 to 10.30pm every night (except Sundays and Mondays). Free pick up service from hotels in the Ubud area. Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired
Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm). The little sister of Jazz Café, the music is a treat, with great playlists to soothe the soul and live gigs on Mondays with Bali’s own Blues Brothers and Thursday nights Acoustic Jam Session - from 8 to 11pm. Open all day, every day. Free Wifi 9am to 6pm.
M
MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.
N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.
O ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.
P PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the
family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace. PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PROPERTY Exotiq Real Estate Sanur, Bali Office Jalan Danau Tamblingan 77, Sanur, Bali 80227, Indonesia Tel: 0361-287642 www.exotiqrealestate.com Exotiq Real Estate is South East Asia's largest brokerage and consultancy focusing on property located in highly attractive and desirable holiday destinations. Exotiq Real Estate offers prime property listings in nine different destinations from a network of 12 offices.Exotiq Real Estate Bali is the largest real estate specialist with offices in Lovina, Jimbaran, Sanur and Seminyak. Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern
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end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. www.ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? The Ubud Property team is multinational and experienced, with the key staff holding degrees in law. The company works in association with the region’s leading Notary Office for optimal legal protection, and enjoys a reputation good enough to hold an exceptional portfolio of villas and land in and around Ubud.
lime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or
PHOTOGRAPHY Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com
R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-ginger-
the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budgetminded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna and lamb cutlets are done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes for a good meeting place or for reconnoitering when the kids are trekking and Mom is off shopping. Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975 489.
www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating. Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975656 www.tepisawahvillas.com Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am 10pm. Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. Executive Chef Renaud Le Rasle’s menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable. Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com
Bunute Restaurant & Bar Jl.Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972177. www.bunute.com Recently opened Bunute serves Balinese delights with international twists. Wine and live music make this a new venue to try. Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks, frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables. Belgium beer now available for those midday heated moments. One of Ubud's favourite hangouts and a must for excellent comfort food. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook. Situated on the main road just down
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from the Ubud market, it is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and has a reputation that extends beyond most café restaurants of its kind. Wednesday nights are Brazilian Jazz nights with music by Murni and Riwin as well as tapas and cocktails. It also offers the Luna Lounge with newspapers, CNN, movies and free Wifi, as well as its famed Honeymoon Bakery, established in 1991, using time-honoured methods and the finest ingredients to satisfy travellers from all corners of the globe. Sunday Brunches are a must. CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H.15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley. Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. The inviting ambience of a spacious garden entices you in; the food and drinks convince you to return again. Start at the bar for a cocktail, then choose the thatched dining room, the outdoor modern garden back-dropped
by an impressive Balinese gate, or chill on the cushions in the private pavilion. The menu has tantalising surprises in store, combining grill classics with an imaginative menu of salads, pastas, Asian curries, stir-fries and downhome desserts. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978631. www.coffeecopper.com A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Tel: 0361-975354. www.coffeesilver.com A favourite among the Euro-crew, this restaurant and bar is set on a multitiered terrace dotted with antiques and interior design accents. Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night. GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature
‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. Executive and award-winning chef Chris Miller, has handcrafted a menu based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glass-accented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate bookings for GLOW are essential!
Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng, Ubud. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom Famous Dutch Painter Han Snel's gallery located just minutes from the palace. During his time as a renowned artist, Han built Siti Bungalows and one of the first restaurant and bars in Ubud, recently re-opened and now serving excellent international cuisine by an eccentric, well-experienced 5-star hotel Chef, Erick Kurniawan.
Expect a large selection of cold drinks, wireless internet and very friendly staff. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 10pm. Crazy Drink Promotions such as DDD – David's Double Dice – get a discount and daily specials are low as Rp20,000 per meal...all to be enjoyed in the true Balinese spirit of tranquil gardens in a peaceful sanctuary. Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal. Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. On a clear day, you can see mighty Gunung Agung, in the east, and on a full-moon, there is a spectacular view from the terrace. The restaurant runs a free shuttle service between Indus, Casa Luna and the Honeymoon Guesthouses. With its mouth–watering
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menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Salsa nights on Mondays. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M.12 Cool jazz at arguably Ubud's hottest nightspot. The first live jazz venue of the island, with a lively and popular restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and a variety of salads, excellent kebabs, healthy fare and fresh juices. Live music nightly except Mondays. Juice Ja Café Jl. Dewi Sita Ubud. Tel: 0361-971056. Fresh, pure and healthy. The perfect place to get your shot of wheatgrass and watch the street go by beneath you. Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you
just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm. Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www.armaresort.com This pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes
for you. Rated Bali’s “Best Indonesian restaurant”, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Known foremost for offering Bali’s most interesting and delicious selection of Indonesian food, Batan Waru also caters to other tastes. Rice, pasta and bread lovers will find lots to eat for lunch and dinner. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel 0361-973134. A secret success story, Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere with a good view.
are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, (and now directly across the street from the Waterbom Park in Kuta) any time of the week, Kafe Batan Waru has something
Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Chef Amanda Gale and her team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime.
Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-975742, 976659 www. kokokan.com Elegant dining in the oldworld atmosphere of Kokokan Club's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil Kokokan Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens. Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential. Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake (in face it bakes 15 types of bread daily). It also boasts a fabulous upstairs eatery which is very well regarded. Open daily from 8am–10pm. Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Related to the excellent Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Rd, at Laka Leke sit amongst lily
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ponds in pavilions and listen to the sound of frogs, and the food is as good as at Cafe Wayan. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan - Padang, Tegal Ubud (Bali Spirit Yoga Barn’s Garden). Tel: 0361-970992. www.balispirit.com Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also! Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday, 8-11pm. Free Wi-fi 9am-6pm. Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire
and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. The large, double-ceilinged, three-sided
dining room opens onto a garden courtyard, with only eight well-spaced tables inside and a couple more in the garden. Pure classic white and garden green predominate. The food is exquisite Japanese fare, beautifully prepared with delicious variety. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the
ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential. Murni’s Warung Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years. Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Genial owner Brian is usualy on hand in a corner seat somewhere, ready to welcome you into a world of enjoyment that may start over a quiet beer and extend late into the night. Seating here is a freefor-all...just sit down and take your chances. Naughty Nuri’s (named after Brian’s charming wife Nuri) is also something of a legend with Japanese and Chinese tourists, not to
mention hordes from Jakarta who trek here on a regular basis, making sure this is one of the busiest and most popular restaurants in Bali, let alone Ubud. In fact sometimes it’s impossible to get a seat. So go early and enjoy the food, ambience and ribaldry of what has become a legendary roadside establishment. Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities, there to sample the local, Asian fusion and Western food from an eclectic menu that boasts a few special treats – Nomad-style Martabak, Fresh Prawn Lakso and a selection of Balinese tapas. Open from 9am every day, Nomad Restaurant uses no MSG or other food additives, and the staff is delightful. Nuri’s Nacho Mamas Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977547. Just as it sounds...a part of Tijuana in Ubud with the added value of Nuri’s ribs if Nuri’s is crowded! Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com A four-course fine dining experience like no other.
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Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine in one of Bali's most original and beautiful locations. Boasting rights and getting to tick off one of those 100-things-to-do boxes is definitely part of the evening. Bookings are a must. Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer. Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery! Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan,Ubud. Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.com Map ref: U.8 Pundi-Pundi Grill & Asian restaurant sits right in the heart of Ubud serving the likes of Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus.
Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings. Ryoshi Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating. Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Neil Harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha. This vegan eatery, set in an ecological master–build bamboo pavilion, awakens
your taste buds with healthful organic ingredients. If you thought vegan food was less than appetising, it's time you tasted again. Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/siamsally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have
finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Popular among tourists and locals alike, Siam Sally delivers fresh, homestyle Thai food in a spectacular setting. You can start your journey on the comfy sofas downstairs with an innovative cocktail menu and some shared food. Co-owner/chef Karen Waddell starts you off with Roasted green chili “salsa” with rice cracker, Siam Palace Lom dip, or the hawker stall favorite, Hoy Tod, a crisp mussel fritter served with a housemade fiery Sriracha chili sauce. Curries are cooked up with houseground spice pastes and fresh coconut milk, and the market style noodle dishes are fabulous, ditto the wok-seared creations and Fried Chicken and Som Tam papaya salad, a recipe inspired by a favourite food stall in Bangkok’s Jatujak market. Non Thai food and Vegan also available. Open seven days a week. Early dining birds (seated by 7pm) get a 20 percent discount when booking Table Five (food only). Terazzo Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. And it’s true, Terazo delivers ultra-fresh pan-Asian and international cuisine in stylish surroundings. Located in Ubud
on quiet Suweta Street, just a stone’s throw from the centre of town, Terazo restaurant and bar is designed in a colonial modern style by international design firm Hananto Lloyd. It features banquette dining, a stylish lounge and mahogany bar downstairs. Casual glam awaits you in the dining room upstairs. Open daily from 10am to midnight, Terazo offers exquisite food and wine from across the globe. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering. The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse setting, to be followed by a chill–out session with cocktails upstairs in the Party Lounge. Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama, Ubud. Tel: 8686705 Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others. Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor! West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978363.
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In Ubud’s flourishing west end (Mozaic, Nuri’s, Minami et al) is the West End Café. The cool and colourful décor is a welcoming respite to guests in need of food, refreshment and a place to relax.
S SPAS Ayung Spa at Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan,. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com In pure Balinese style, the resort’s Ayung Spa offers three luxurious pavilions dedicated to relaxation and well-being. Each pavilion comprises two large spaces; one with two massage beds and a Balinese sofa, the other with a dressing area and bathroom with a bath that is surrounded by water and looks out onto the river. Ayung Spa at Maya Ubud has won countless international accolades and Best Spa at The Yak Awards 2008... goes without saying – it is fabulous! Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236. The Day Spa Specialists. Eve – Body Treatment Centre offers professional service at affordable prices. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206
www.fivelements.org Welcome to Ubud's newest and most thorough healing centre. Riverside treatments rooms transport you into another world. Two healing pools – Watsu and Water Dancing – realign your vibration, and Bali's top healing hands cleanse, support and reawaken your very soul. Bookings essential. KUSH Jl Hanoman. Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone! Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even
tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime...
Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men. Skin Organic Jl. Gootama 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975615. www.skinorganic.info Petite and organic spa on Gootama, Ubud’s up–and– coming 'chic street'. Organic nailpolish, fresh blended oils, facials using oxygen products, jamu drinks, scrubs, aloe
vera extracts, top quality... waxing Rp.150,000...Skin gives signature cards for local expats. Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Affordable treatments in the gardens of The Secret Garden. Birds sing, flowers scent the air and the masssages just flow... Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com Look out over Mumbul river and treat yourself to a number of beauty and semi-medical treatments, colonics, fasting programmes and retreats. CranioSacral Therapy, Reiki and Deep Tissue Body Work rejuvenates the mind and revitalizes the body. A number of one, three day raw health programmes up to a two week total revitalization retreat completes the detoxifying package whilst the Salon De'elegance keeps the face and body glowing like royalty. Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan. Telp: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive
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products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.
T TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Many with storytelling themes such as the Western tapestries, but woven instead of knotted or sewn. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.
U
adventure guides under our Adventure listing.
UDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.
WEDDINGS
V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world.
W WALKING Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by
Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com Featured in international television travel programmes, getting married atop an elephant - with your entourage hanging out in a traditional Javanese pavilion surrounded by 30ft commemorative
wedding flags - is one of those events that will make a lifetime dream come true, you will even have the photos and videos to prove it! (In reality wedding vows take place on the ground). Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms
and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment. Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972448. www.uma.como.bz Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go. Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in
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which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka. com WILDLIFE Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com
comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. Elephants can be seen bathing in the park lake, in between riding, painting or other activities. Hand-feed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park’s historical and graphic displays. It’s all about the elephants, however – get up close and personal with these incredible
Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com Part of the respected Bali Adventure Tours company, the Elephant Safari Park at Taro is a world class retreat for pachyderms and their admirers. This is an extremely well put together attraction guaranteed to be a hit with all the family. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco-landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Facilities include a full Reception and Information Centre, a
www.armamuseum.com
YOGA
Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com
Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow.com
Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Painting Class Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman. Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com
animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. You can also stay in one of 25 luxury lodges set within the grounds, or simply visit for the day.
Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com
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WORKSHOPS
YAYASAN/CHARITIES
Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi
Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org
Cultural Workshop Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975742.
Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42, Ubud. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org
The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com Map Ref: O.10 Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali. Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine specially prepared by Chef Amanada Gale. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz
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Performance Schedules
SUNDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance
Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7
MONDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)
Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo
7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00
I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –
TUESDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance
Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7
WEDNESDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana
Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30
I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7
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Performance Schedules
THURSDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30
I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10
FRIDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women Gamelan
Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30
I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7
SATURDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00
I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10
EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.
advertiser’s directory
HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361-971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10
MEDIA Mango Vision Tel: 0361-8446341 www.mangovision.tv P.35
RESTAURANT Ary's Warung Tel: 0361-975053 www.decko.com P.9 Bud Map I.7
Sayan Aesthetic Institute Tel: 0361-972648 www.aestheticbali .com P.36 Bud Map D.3
Periplus www.periplus.co.id P.36 Bud Map B.4
Bar Luna Tel: 0361-971832 www.casalunabali.com P.5 Bud Map L.9
Skin Organic Tel: 0361-975615 www.skinorganic.info P.7 Bud Map L.8 HOTEL Alila Ubud Tel: 0361-975963 www.alilahotels.com P.11 Bud Map A.2 Alila Manggis Tel: 0363-41011 www.alilahotels.com P.11 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361-978888 www.como.bz P.3 Bud Map A.2 Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P.2 Bud Map E.6 Uma Ubud Tel: 0361-972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz P.1 Bud Map A.2 Warwik Ibah Hotel Tel: 0361-974466 www.warwickibah.com P.7 Bud Map H.4
Victor Mason su_birdwalk@yahoo.com P.35 MISC. yPod Bali - iTunes APP Tel: 0361-8446341 www.theyakmag.com P.69 FNPF Tel: 0361-977978 www.fnpf.org P.7 Bud Map K.4 PROPERTY Desa Kerasan Tel: 0361-9000566 www.desakerasan.com P.3
Jazz Café Tel: 0361-976594 www.jazzcafebali.com P.36 Bud Map L.12 Laughing Buddha Bar Tel: 0361-970928 info@laughingbuddhabar.net P.36 Bud Map P.7
Exotiq Ubud Tel: 0361-974153 ubudbali@exotiqrealestate.com P.13 Bud Map K.12 Ubud Property Tel: 0361-970888 www.ubudproperty.com P.2 Bud Map K.14 RECREATION Bali Adventure Tours Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com IBC Bud Map C.3
Mozaic Tel: 0361-975768 www.mozaic-bali.com P.1 Bud Map B.3 SHOP Biasa Fashion Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com BC Bud Map A.3 Macan Tidur Tel: 0361-977121 www.macantidur.com / www. susijohnston.com P.5 Bud Map K.7 Threads of Life Tel: 0361-972187 tac@threadsoflife.com P.13 Bud Map H.7
distribution list
NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud
Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Esthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant
Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant JFF Jewelry Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Nacho Mamas Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally Skin Organic Sobek Adventure Rafting Tama Gallery Taman Hati Tegal Sari
Terazo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery
THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.
to Como Shambhala, Alila, Komaneka & Ubud Hanging Gardens
THE CHEDI CLUB
FNPF
Information
Post office
Spa/Salon
Money changer
Sports field
Misc.
NDUN G
ROGA
JL. JE
Pura Gunung Sari I
JL. GUNUNG SAR
NATURA RESORT
MAYA UBUD
UKM A (T JL. S
Tebesaya
JL. C OK G
Coffee & Silver Tanah Merah
Pura Dalem Agung Temple
Padang Tegal Dirty Duck
Peliatan RONG G
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Entrance fee: Adults Rp. 15,000 Children Rp. 7,500
JL. SE
Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper
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Laka Leke
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Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus
Nyuh Kuning
Bamboo Foundation
Siam Sally
Cafe Arma
JL.
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Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak
APENGOSEKA RAY N
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Agung Rai Gallery
Pengosekan
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Andong
AI ( JL. P ELIA TAN )
KEY F
Bali Spirit Tegun The Kafe
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U
THE VICEROY BALI Cascades
DE R
Bumbu Bali II sisi + nanan KOMANEKA Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Cinta UBUD INN Verona
SAY A)
Milano Bodyworks Lamak
(MON
RA W ANA
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ANDONG
Taman Klod
JL. RAYA
To Elephant Safari Park
JL. TIR TA TA WAR
WE
JL. SAN DAT
TA
JL. SRI W EDARI
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Shop
EBE
AD RO
Alamkara UBUD VILLAGE HOTEL Cafe Wayan Greenhouse Wah Tama Gallery
ENTRANCE
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Bar/Nightclub
Police station
MBAW AN
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Pura Prajapati Cemetary
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Place of interest
Deer pen
JL. JE
RES
O
Dance theatre
JL. SUGRIW A
Y FO
Restaurant/Bar
Seniwati Gallery Super of Art by Women Market Kupu Kupu Foundation Gallery Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Property Highway Exotiq Sagu Galaxyan JL. COK PUTRA S. Atelier Pura Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe SITA Sukma Sk in Or Tutmak ganic Bali Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman sisi + Cat Juice Bar nanan MA N
MONKE
ENTRANCE
One way street
Rendezvous 18: Gusti Lempad’s 00 Galaxyan Atelier
Adi’s Art Studio & Gallery Infinity Market Gallery Place Cafe Des Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Tidur
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Bridge
NO
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HOTEL/VILLA
JL.
KOMANEKA BISMA
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Temple
Museum
Bar LuGnOOTAMA a
Ubud Klod
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6:0
Monkey forest
Automatic teller
TEGALALANG 10km TARO 16km KINTAMANI 22km
Rio JF-F Helmi Terazo Bumbu Bali I Ibu Oka
HA
WAKA NAMYA
Casa Luna Ary’s Warung
Art gallery
1.5km
JL.
N NA TA
Blanco Renaissance Museum
1km
Batan AlamkaWaru ra
ES EN .P
J
Bridges Bali
JL
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Art Zoo
Ubud Kaja UBUD SARI WARWICK IBAH Puri Lukisan Han Snel JL. RAY Murni’s AU Warung BUD
.5km
AJE
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0
Lotus
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Mas
JL. SU
Rudana Museum
Sayan
Tanah Gajah
JL. K
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KAYU MANIS to Fivelements to The Samaya Horizon Glassworks
T RO AD)
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ORES
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JL. W ANA
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Payangan Tegalalang Kusia Gallery West End Cafe THE VICEROY BALI UMA UBUD Cascades INDUS Warung Pulau Kelapa Mozaic PITA MAHA Bali Adventure Rafting Periplus Paul Ropp Gaya Gallery The Shop UBUD FOUR SEASONS Sayan Aesthetic BEBEK TEPI SAWAH RESTAURANT & VILLAS VILLA KIRANA
JL. B
A
KUPU KUPU BARONG AMANDARI Minami Biasa Naughty Nuri’s
Agung Rai Museum of Art ARMA RESORT Flava Lounge
Hanna Art Space Gajah Gallery
Dangin Lebak
Y
DENPASAR 26km via MAS
UBUD VILLAGE RESORT JL. NYUH KUNING
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To Tony Raka Gallery
To Genta Gallery
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Rudana Rudana Museum
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destinations
Text: Katie Truman Photos: Djuna Ivereigh/djunapix.com Wave goodbye to bad habits (coffee, alcohol, smokes, junk food, et al), bad lifestyles and definitely bad karma and say hello to healing, learning to love and respecting life. Â Â Bali has just two Healing Hotels of the World and Fivelements is one of them: a unique ecohealing destination strung along the banks of the Agung River in peaceful Baturning village. Â
High five.
destinations
Elemental.
Post five.
destinations
One of five.
Organically conceived by Chicco and Lahra Tratriele and carried by a passionately committed multi-national team, this healing centre comes deeply rooted in Bali’s philosophies and traditions, with ancient rituals, healing practices and sacred arts. Inspired by the Balinese way of life, Fivelements encourages guests to nurture harmony with spirit, the environment and one another; hardly difficult, given this naturally beautiful spot is infused with positive energy. Designed with eco-conscious principles, Balinese Vastu and sacred geometry, spiritual issues have guided the design process from first consultations with local priests until the opening ceremony in July, 2010. Sacred spaces include Kundas, where blessing ceremonies and prayer rituals are performed, while healing therapies are administered by Balinese healers using ancient wisdoms passed down through direct lineage. The authentic healing concept and respect for traditions and nature permeates throughout. Everything from locally sourced, natural materials crafted into traditional-style buildings and sustainability concept, to freshly prepared, organic ingredients used in age-old holistic treatments in the dedicated Beauty Sanctuary. A vital element of the natural healing process is food. As if announcing the start of a grand, gastronomic journey, Sakti Dining Room is a bamboo architectural masterpiece, complete with alang-alang roof shaped like a banana leaf. Based on Living Foods cuisine, over half the menu is living food, raw dishes, with the remainder, lightly cooked vegetarian preparations; more than ninety per cent of ingredients are organic, sourced from local farming communities. The mere mention of ‘vegan’ and ‘living foods’ would normally induce me to flee to the hills, but here, dishes and juices are wildly innovative and appetizing (try live seed and goji berry granola with fruit and almond milk for breakfast, or zucchini manicotti for lunch). These also contribute to greater energy, cleansing detox, positive outlook and mental clarity – and that’s just for starters. Traditional healers and rituals are arguably Fivelements crowning glory. Guest consultations support and identify physical, mental and emotional areas that require attention and processing, leading to customised healing programmes carried out at the sanctuary-like, ‘Healing Village’ – private healing rooms with open-air bathhouses perched on the riverbank. Here, healers invariably engage the help of a higher divine source, following the Balinese principal of Sekala-Niskala (both
conscious and psychic worlds). Holistic rituals include Massage Therapies like Chi Nei Tsang and Invigorating Bodywork. However, for an out of this world experience, literally, don’t miss the Healing Energy sessions. In Chakra Balancing, the body’s seven energy centres are activated and balanced, while in Prana Healing, aura imbalances are scanned and cleared before Prana is guided into the body for self-healing. I chose (or it chose me) the powerful Panca Mahabhuta, with a promise of my body’s five elements (earth, water, fire, air and ether) balanced and any unhealthy energy, originating from emotional and mental burdens or physical ailments, cleaned out. I half-expected surprisingly young Wayan to take one look at my aura and lament, “Uh-oh, she’s a complete mess – beyond help!” However, this gifted healer got down to his work, and in an extraordinary surreal hour, trance-like and chanting, clasped his hands on my head and body as I lay there motionless. Recovering afterwards and sipping herbal tea, Wayan informed me, via translator, that my bad energies had indeed disappeared. “But am I balanced now?” I nervously enquired. Wayan hesitated, shot me a half-smile and confirmed, “Yes, you’re balanced now.” Phew. Everyone should try this, but if that all sounds too heavy, try Aquatic Bodywork, like Watsu and Healing Dance, in a heated water therapy pool. Floating effortlessly like a baby, enjoy soothing, water-assisted massage and yoga-like stretches from gentle Californian guru, Michael. Or partake in Sacred Arts like Tantra Yoga, in one of several bamboo Mandalas. Devotees make a day of it, but for maximum benefits, stay a few nights in one of five, stand-alone pavilions [10 more will follow in 2011] where luxurious comforts blend with nature. Fashioned in the form of sacred spirals, each riverside suite is constructed with high grass-roofed ceilings and recycled timbers, embellished with antique objets. There’s a sensuous open-air garden bathroom, enclosed by high walls, and opposite a waterfall, a massive bathtub hewn from a stone boulder stands in a bamboo bathhouse. Bathing al fresco at night time, chromotherapy lighting playfully bounces off one of seven Chakra hues: who needs TV when you have all this? After days shaking off inner turmoil and finding inner-peace, unconscious healing even extends to the bathtub – rounding-off an exceptional Fivelements experience. www.fivelements.org
A work in progress, by Diana Darling.
Chapter 8: September 1906 The Dutch forces invaded Bali with gunships, cannons, cavalry, and foot soldiers across her softest flank, across a coral-reefed lagoon, across a sandy beach, across a coconut grove, across rice fields and groves of bamboo, through shady villages, down village lanes, past mud-walled compounds with thatch-roof kitchens and tiered pagodas, past carved temples and wooden granaries, past the high red-brick walls of noble courtyards, past empty squares with only an enormous, dark banyan tree (behind the curtain of aerial roots would be a shrine in the groin of the tree, wrapped in black and white checkered cloth) until, turning a corner into the broad dusty avenue in front of the palace at around eleven in the morning, they saw, walking toward them, the softest of enemies: a procession of Balinese royalty with all their retinue, perhaps six hundred people — men, women, boys, girls, babies — all of them dressed in plain white cloth, with heavy gold jewelry around their necks and on their bare brown arms. * On the morning of the 4th of September 1906, the Governor General had signed and dispatched instructions for the conquest of south Bali. It would be the biggest military expedition ever
mounted by the Netherlands East Indies. A decree appointed Major General M.B. Rost van Sonningan commander of the expedition with two adjutants, one from the army and one from the navy. Under the command of the army adjutant would be senior officers, three battalions of infantry (the Eleventh, the Eighteenth, and the Twentieth); a detachment of cavalry; an artillery corps equipped with cannons and howitzers; three sections of combat engineers; an administrative staff; a medical service with emergency field hospital; a topographical and map-making service; an emergency postal service; an onsite judicial bureau and military court; a general transport service; a canteen service; and reserves. Army personnel comprised 92 Dutch officers and soldiers, 1,332 mercenary soldiers from Europe and Ambon, and 980 regular native soldiers. Non-military personnel comprised two civil servants, 221 personal servants, 495 coolies, and 23 overseers, these last two categories being comprised of prisoners. There would also be 200 saddle horses and 43 draft horses. The naval component would comprise all Dutch warships deployed in the Netherlands East Indies, as well as transport
FICTION
and cargo ships and patrol boats, manned by over a thousand sailors. There would also be a detachment of marines. The ships’ guns were capable of striking the inland town of Denpasar from the sea. On the same day, September 4th, Gusti Agung Saru summoned his cousins, ministers, punggawas, and the rajas of the neighboring kingdoms to discuss their response to the coming invasion. The king’s spy network (nurtured in part by Zwart, for both professional and private reasons) had informed him that a military expedition of unprecedented force was being assembled in Batavia; that it would strike from Sanur; and that the attack was imminent, a matter of days. The men determined that their military defense would be mounted around eastern Denpasar, with trenches and fortifications, manned by an infantry of as many men as could be conscripted. They would be armed with bamboo lances. The kingdom’s firearms (some 150 rifles) would be distributed among local leaders to equip sniper squads. Then Gusti Agung Saru led the assembled company to the courtyard of the royal family temple. Among the darkly towering shrines was a small square building of brick on a high base of carved stone. The king’s high priest climbed the steps, opened the small wooden doors, and invited the princes to enter. In the center of the little room was a table, and on the table was a rectangular box covered with white cloth. The high priest placed several small offerings on the table with a stick of incense, and murmured briefly. Then he pulled back the cloth and opened the box. Inside, resting in form-fitted blue velvet, was an elaborately engraved gun, a blunderbuss of European manufacture dating from the eighteenth century. It was Ki Amrit, a weapon too sacred for ordinary use, an heirloom relic that had been captured in war and enshrined in the royal temple for longer than living memory. For generations the thunder gun had lain in the family temple accumulating sacred power, undisturbed except on certain holy days to be given offerings and sprinkled with holy water. The princes, being of the warrior caste, were moved by the sight of this weapon and its alien beauty: its smooth body of walnut; the ornate engraving on its brass fittings; the blunt flare of its muzzle. Who would be chosen to wield it? Would it be the prince of Puri Dangin, whose palace was closest to the sea and first in line in defense of the kingdom? Would it be the prince of Puri Dauh in the west? Would it be the king himself? Kartu left the house of the Punggawa of Sanur with the other klians in the late afternoon. As soon as they were outside the village they stepped into a banana grove and, in groups of two and three, they lifted their sarongs to piss, muttering to each other about the meeting with the Punggawa.
“Volunteer to fight the Dutch? I’d rather volunteer to cross the bay underwater with rocks on my head.” “If I asked my men to volunteer to fight the Dutch, they’d laugh me out of the village.” “My village would pull up stakes and move to Java.” “Let’s just move to Holland.” “Same thing.” Later that evening, Kartu asked Pan Kartu to walk with him to the beach. They crossed the rice fields between the village and the sea in the light of a plump gibbous moon. Fireflies danced in the milky air, and from the temples and shrines they passed came the scent of incense and the burning of fragrant wood. As they entered the shifting glimmer and gloom of the coconut grove, they heard the rattle of wooden bells as they startled cows tethered there. A faun-like calf sprang up in front of them and then bounced away. Beyond the grove was the beach and the dark sparkling sea. In the distance, the surf broke in a long white undulating line over the reef, and beyond that, a pair of Dutch patrol ships moved slowly northward. Kartu and his father gravitated toward their beached outrigger, so long out of water that its boards were shrinking. They passed a caressing hand over the bow and then sat down in the sand and looked out at the beautiful night sea. To their left, in the northeast, the lordly mountain Gunung Agung rose in a radiant white cone. As they grew quiet, they heard the murmuring of other people along the beach who had come out to imbibe the moonlight and gaze at the sea they were forbidden to enter. “The Punggawa wants us to call for volunteers to fight the Dutch,” said Kartu finally. “Of course he does,” said Pan Kartu. “He’s the king’s man.” Kartu opened the woven bamboo purse on his father’s hip and took out a small wad of tobacco. He tucked the tobacco behind his lower lip and, oblivious to the way it distorted his speech, went on, “I don’t know what to say to the men. The Dutch have guns, cannons, horses. They’ve got thousands of men, they say, all of them with rifles. We can’t possibly beat them. If we fight them, they’ll kill us.” “Yes,” said Pan Kartu. “You’re right.” “Bapa, what’s our duty to the king, really?” “He’s given us land. He’s looking after Sudri. The palace has always been good to our family.” “It doesn’t cost them much,” said Kartu. “That’s not the point,” said Pan Kartu. The older man made himself a betel quid and as he mashed it in his betelnut crusher, he thought of Sudri. “Tell me exactly what the Punggawa said.” “He said that each of the klians is to raise a militia, fifty percent of the men in the banjar, the best fighters. Make
bamboo lances. The other fifty percent will do coolie work building fortifications.” “You could do this: recruit the men; make the lances and drill the militia; send the others to build fortifications. Then, when the Dutch invade, surrender.” “Surrender?” “Yes. Don’t fight.” “Won’t they shoot us?” “Perhaps not, if all the klians agree not to fight. Let’s talk to the Punggawa.” The palace Puri Denpasar, seat of the kingdom of Tarik Tamu, covered nearly seven acres. It was a huge handmade place with high walls of rubbed brick — like a small town, composed of twenty-three walled courtyards of various dimensions, each with its own name and function, each with a variety of pavilions and flowering trees. Entry to the palace was through two great gates on the southwest corner, one on the south, one on the west, both leading to a very broad courtyard called the ancak saji. Several weeks later, when Dutch soldiers roamed through the ruins of the palace, some of them noticed that the brick walls and the terra cotta roof tiles varied in color from harsh bright salmon to a soft dusty pink, depending, they concluded, how recently the structure had been built or renovated. As the Dutch warships steamed toward Bali, Gusti Agung Saru found himself often seized by the sweetness of life. The bright dry September sun drove the roots of plants deep into the earth in search of water to feed a profusion of flowers. Bougainvillea poured over the palace walls in a blanket of crimson. Frangipani trees, standing in the bare swept earth of the palace courtyards, were crowned with waxy white flowers and filled the air with their perfume. Every hour of the day was scented with the fragrance of a different flowering tree, and every hour filled the king with a different flavor of fear. He had to prepare his children for death, and didn’t know how. So he took to strolling through the palace with his grandson in his arms, murmuring to the child about the carved stone monsters that supported the pavilion posts, the flying deities painted on wooden panels, the caged songbirds suspended from the eaves of pavilions, the carp in the ornamental ponds. He whispered to Ratu Manik about the tall dark pagodas in the royal house temple and the deities they housed: ancestral kings and great powers of the mountains and the lakes that nourished the land. Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu followed them, their shoulders brushing, tiny puffs of dust rising from their bare feet. On September 10th 1906, the Dutch fleet began entering the waters off Sanur. It would take three days for all the ships to arrive and take up their positions, dropping their heavy anchors into the coral reef.
Disembarkation began on September 14th at 05.30 hours when the night sky was beginning to fade. On shore, Kartu and hundreds of villagers from Sanur lurked behind trees and watched as wave after wave of boats carrying soldiers, horses, and cargo landed on the beach. Kartu was chilled with a looming, throbbing feeling of menace. The boats emerged from the ships like dark pellets and crept toward the shore, bobbing on the sea and trailing the low humming of engines. The air over the sea turned pink and slowly morning blossomed over the bay. At 06.30 hours General Van Sonningan, a tall, hawk-faced man with a full grey moustache, strode along the beach. He breathed in the damp air, looked around, and issued his first orders on land: “Cut down the coconut grove, clear it, and set up camp.” Military engineers drilled wells in the rice fields, startling the rice goddess, and began building a service road. Scouts fanned out around the countryside gathering intelligence. All day long boats came ashore carrying troops and crates as the gunships fired shells into the villages around Denpasar, blowing up house yards, farmers, fishermen, peddlers, dancers, and livestock, ripping up gardens, setting roofs, fields and trees on fire. Zwart, bivouacked with the troops near the beach, reported this progress — via the newly installed telephone communications system that had been set up with a way station on a neighboring island — every evening to Willem, who remained aboard the flagship Hertog Hendrik with Emma. As the cannon fire came closer to the puri, Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu spent the nights alone together, and Ratu Manik slept with Sudri and the twins’ now elderly nurse. Sudri had asked permission to visit her family, but the king forbade it as being too dangerous. “You’re safer with us here. At least for now.” It was said among the palace servants that the king no longer slept at all, but now spent the nights, as well as the days, wandering through the palace courtyards, sometimes accompanied by the High Priest and the Chief Minister, but often alone, speaking with the spirit of his wife. As he walked through his gardens and toured his pavilions and storehouses, it seemed to Gusti Agung Saru that death lay everywhere, lurking on the edges of knives, slumbering in the muzzle of guns, packed in boxes of ammunition. “I know that we all must die some day. But must we all die before the next full moon?” “Who would you be if you surrendered?” said his wife, or his heart. Zwart, too, had uneasy nights. When the Sanur punggawa sent a message to the camp requesting a secret meeting one night, they had shared betelnut and talked of cockfights for nearly half an hour before the Punggawa came to the point. “The villagers of Sanur will provide assistance to the Dutch
FICTION
troops if our safety can be guaranteed.” “I can’t guarantee your safety if this is a trick,” said Zwart. “A surprise attack on the Dutch camp is planned for tomorrow morning before dawn,” said the Punggawa. “Give me your word, and I’ll call it off. If I’m lying, your troops will be ready to massacre us. We have no other weapons than bamboo spears and four rifles.” Zwart rubbed his face. “All right. War is stupid, isn’t it?” On the evening of September 19th, Gusti Agung Saru called his family together with the palace priests, ministers, and all the household servants. “Tomorrow we will be attacked,” said the king. “The Dutch would like us to surrender. If we do, we’ll be taken as slaves or banished to another island. We’ll be forced to cut the roofs off our shrines and eat with our left hands. They’ll rape our women, and in three generations we’ll all have red hair.” Sudri, who understood that she was already a slave, wondered what she would look like with red hair. “If we surrender to the Dutch,” the king continued, “we’ll be like shit on the road. So we will leave nothing for them. We will meet the enemy in battle, bravely and gladly. Anyone who chooses not to follow us tomorrow is free to leave the palace now.” The sound of sobbing came from here and there among the assembled company, but no one left and soon the night became so quiet that all they could hear was the steady breeze coming from the sea. White-clad priests and their wives moved among the crowd distributing prayer flowers and the particular holy water called tirta pegentas that purifies the souls of the dead. From time to time, someone would intone a verse of holy poetry. The night’s vigil was a long, amorphous, improvised ritual that with the approach of dawn became ever more focused and unadorned. In the morning, the king ordered the palace to be set on fire, starting with the pagodas in the house temple, then the granaries, the private residences, the treasury, the kitchens, and the grand meeting pavilions. The brick walls and grand gates of carved stone stood impervious, as did the guest house, a large two-storey building of hand-rubbed brick inspired by a postcard from Java. As the smoke began to rise, the royal family and their followers gathered in the broad forecourt in the southwest corner of the palace. Priestesses distributed white cloth. One of them tore white cloth into strips to be tied around their heads, as for the most sacred rituals. Ratu Ayu tied a strip around the small head of Ratu Manik and gave one to Sudri, who tied it around her own head, her skin feeling strangely cold in the warm morning sunlight. The king distributed kris daggers to the men, women, and priests. The palace musicians hefted their gongs, tapped lightly on the rims of their drums. The royal sedan
chair was brought forward and laid on the ground by the great western gate. The king sat upon it and at a nod of his head, it was hoisted onto the shoulders of four bearers. Suddenly Ratu Ayu thrust Ratu Manik into Sudri’s arms and rushed forward to kiss the feet of her father. Gusti Agung Saru looked down at his daughter and bent over to brush her cheek with his hand. Then he straightened and, staring into the blank gate of heaven, he raised his hand. Cymbals crashed into a violent chattering, the High Priest handed the Prime Minister the venerable blunderbuss Ki Amrit, and the royal house of Tarik Tamu set out in procession to meet the invader, moving slowly in a furious din of cymbals, drums, and gongs. Zwart, on a heavy grey horse, rode next to Van Sonningan who was mounted on a racy chestnut, at the head of the long column of cavalry, artillery, and infantry. The men squinted and the horses squirmed as smoke from the palace billowed across the road. “It looks like the ships have made some good strikes,” said Van Sonningan. But the sound of the drumming made Zwart’s stomach churn. “They’re planning something crazy, sir,” said Zwart. “I don’t think there should be any problem once they see the size of our force,” said Van Sonningan. “No one is to fire unless I personally give the command. The officers are under strict orders to achieve a peaceful surrender.” As the column rounded the northwest corner of the palace they saw a cloud of dust at the far end of the palace, led by Gusti Agung Saru carried aloft. Inside the cloud of dust were hundreds of people dressed in white. Suddenly one of the younger men forming the royal guard raced forward holding his lance high, heading straight for Van Sonningan. “Fire over his head!” The guard kept coming, faster, then hurled his lance and struck a Dutch captain in the throat. The officer jerked backwards, splashing his horse with blood, and fell to the ground. Now the royal procession broke into a run, rushing toward the cavalry. “Fire on them!” screamed a lieutenant. Gusti Agung Saru was struck first in his shoulder and then his chest. One of his bearers was shot in stomach and fell, and the sedan chair toppled. The High Priest took out his kris and slit Gusti Agung Saru’s throat, releasing him into the white rush of death. At this, the procession surged forward into the gunfire. Ratu Ayu stood over her father’s body and then, staring at the horrified look on Van Sonningan’s face, plunged her kris into her stomach and yanked the dagger back and forth until she toppled over her father’s corpse. Ratu Mas ran forward holding his kris high and was shot full
in the face less than a yard from Van Sonningan’s horse. The Prime Minister aimed the blunderbuss at Van Sonningan and pulled the trigger. The old gun exploded with a roar, ripping off the Prime Minister’s arm and tearing his torso open; he died as he fell. The procession now turned into a shapeless riot as the Balinese nobles rushed toward the invader, baring their chests and screaming to be shot. Dutch cannon fire blasted into the crowd, sending limbs and shredded pieces of cloth into the air. The dead and bloodied fell everywhere, and the dust and noise grew thicker and more fiendish. Women hurled their jewelry at the soldiers, then stabbed their bellies and toppled dying over the bodies of their husbands. Mounds of corpses piled up, twitching and slippery. By the side of the road, a baby shrieked at the torn breast of her mother. A priestess slit the child’s throat and staggered on through the crowd, muttering prayers and killing the wounded. Everywhere life seeped into the ground. People fell softly into each other, relaxing into limpness and then a humming brightness and then the dark. To Zwart, the ghastly scene was endless. But slowly the noise subsided and soon there was only the sound of groaning and choking, and of hoof beats as the cavalry slowly moved forward. The musicians were scattered, crumpled, dead. A cymbal toppled and spun a moment with an awful buzzing sound and then was silent. Among the soldiers there were groaning curses and the sound of retching; Zwart heard one young soldier reciting the Hail Mary through chattering teeth. Near mid-day, a growing blanked-out thing settled on the road, whiting it out, as the souls of the dead begin to lift and move about, floating into the trees — the sick sweetness and chill of death that leaves a thudding sound in the people who observe it. Death spread like a low icy cloud and slid along the edges of people’s lips and fingertips, coating the walls and trees, and clinging to the slowly settling dust. From behind the courtyard walls of the houses lining the street came the intermittent sound of people crying out in disbelief and from time to time keening prayers, which to the soldiers’ ears sounded harsh and insane. By afternoon, the fires in the palace had been put out and surreptitious looting began. General Van Sonningan asked Zwart to get the people of the neighborhood to come out of their houses and help dispose of the dead. Some cowering, some stony-faced, they brought out woven mats, poles of bamboo, and lengths of white cloth and began to wrap the corpses for burning, as soldiers stood over them to keep them from stealing the royal jewelry and turn over it to the soldiers. (Among them was a stone carver. The bugged eyes and protruding tongues of the dead would later appear in his carvings on the village’s temple of the netherworld, igniting a fashion that quickly spread
through the island wherever demons were depicted.) Around four o’clock, the sky darkened and a freak rain fell on Denpasar, soaking the mats of the dead and washing the faces of those who tended them. Zwart stood by the corpse of Gusti Agung Saru. It was wrapped in a bamboo mat and lay on a bamboo litter on the ground, surrounded by half a dozen squatting men. Zwart marveled that a few hours earlier the corpse had been a king. “All this military might to defeat an enemy who commits suicide,” he thought. “Who has won, really?” That night, the bodies of the dead were carried to the graveyard a quarter of a mile away and burned. The next morning, Kartu, defying shouts from a group of soldiers, put his boat into the sea. Sudri and Ratu Manik were found immobile and staring into space, but alive, at the bottom of a heap of corpses. Zwart revived them somewhat with his flask of gin and brought them to the flagship, where he presented them, conscious but still speechless, to Willem and Emma. “They’re obviously part of the royal household, although I don’t know exactly who they are,” said Zwart. “I don’t know if they’re lucky or not to have survived that hell.” Both children were wrapped in blankets and shivering despite the warm night air. “We had to take off their clothes. They were soaked in blood and God knows what else,” said Zwart. Emma crouched down at looked into the faces of the children. Their pupils were dilated and their cheeks pale and clammy. Ratu Manik’s mouth was slightly open, showing his baby milk teeth; Sudri’s mouth was shut tight as if suppressing a scream. “What on earth happened?” murmured Emma, still looking at the children. Behind her, Willem shook his head at Zwart and said, “Apparently it was rather bad, darling. I’ll tell you about it later. We can look after the children until I figure what to do with them.” “The first thing they need is a bath,” she said, caressing Sudri’s blood-stiffened hair. Startled, Sudri flinched and that was when Emma saw something sparkling at her throat. She opened the blanket very slightly and then stared. There on a golden chain around Sudri’s neck was Emma’s grandmother’s diamond ring, the furtive gift she had sent to the king of Tarik Tamu. Emma’s cheeks flamed and she quickly closed the blanket. [to be continued]
Familiar faces from over the years...Jazz Cafe has been a rock solid standard on the Ubud night scene.
Fourteen
Strong
Ubud's Jazz Cafe turns fourteen. Thanks for the ride.
Oh, to be fourteen! What a fabulous age, and one that Jazz Café has just reached with high hopes and lots of glory. Opening in 1996 as the dreamchild of Agung Wiryawan and his wife Nina, Jazz Café has been the heart and soul of live music in Ubud, and to this day a pioneer on the Bali Jazz scene. Balawan, Rio Siddick and the Joe Rosenburg Quartet are household names with those that bask in strains of jazz – they are also artists recognized by the likes of music powerhouse Sony. With comments from visitors to Bali such as “refreshing”; “three visits in
one trip”; “the best music I have ever experienced in 25 trips to Bali”, it is no wonder that Jazz Café – with its semi-open air Bali style pavilions, photos of alltime music greats, appetizing menu and a cocktail list that certainly has as defined a place in our hearts as the sound of Summertime – is well placed to continue growing, blooming and impressing us with sounds of jazz well into its 20s and beyond. Ladies and gentlemen of musical magnificence, we salute you. www.jazzcafebali.com
open mike
Diana Darling on the ins and outings of the Ubud Writers, Readers & Extroverts Festival.
As everyone knows who has ever tried it, reading is a solitary activity. So is writing. So there is something paradoxical about the notion of a writers and readers festival. Moreover, in order to enjoy such a thing, you have to be an extrovert. Because reading and writing take place in an individual’s head, it is the task of literary festivals to get the writer’s voice out there – live! – in a public space. So they offer readings and panel discussions by writers, and costly meals in which readers (that is, ticket-buyers) dine while writers watch them eat and are interviewed by a moderator (that is, a high-level extrovert). Poets get special help with noisy new formats such as performance poetry and poetry slams (competitive performance poetry). Festival organisers like performance poetry and poetry slams because of their audience appeal to low forms of life like young people, natives, and ticket-buyers, who discover not only that poetry can be sexy, but also that you don’t even have to read it! And you might win a big bottle of beer! Poets like these new formats, too, if they are extroverts. In fact, if you are a writer of any sort and would like to be invited to literary festivals, you’d better be an extrovert. You should be able to chat at length with anyone at all, and in English, no matter where you are or where you’re from. You should be good-looking – or at least funny-looking – and you should have
the temperament of an angel: impervious to jet lag, having your name misspelled, your books lost, being re-scheduled without notice, or abandoned at the airport. You should be able to eat anything and to hold your liquor, no matter how low-grade it is. You should always be ready to get up and dance with the festival organisers. Above all, you must be funny. If you have all these qualities but don’t write very well, it doesn’t matter. If you are a reader/ticket-buyer, you’d better an extrovert, too, or you’ll never break through the golden circle around the star writers created by the press corps, festival organisers, other ticket-buyers, and the charisma of the stars themselves. If you have come to the festival all the way from another country because one of your favourite writers is being featured, and you’ve bought tickets to all her panel discussions and In Conversations and even dug into your pocket for the literary lunch where she will be interviewed by someone else only a few metres from your table, it won’t do to be shy about going up to her afterwards and telling her how much you loved her book. If you are a reader you might not be an extrovert, and you might feel like an idiot saying something so sincere and unremarkable. Reader says: “I loved your book.” Writer says: “Thank you very much.” Reader thinks: “Oh god, why can’t I express myself better? I hate myself.” Writer thinks: “That was so nice of her
to say that.” If you are a ticket-buying reader and not an extrovert, there are lots of opportunities to feel miserable at a literary festival. Besides missing every chance to have the books you buy signed by their writers – after panel discussions, at book launches, at literary lunches and dinners, at the “private” parties for writers to which “friends” (donors) are allowed entry – there are those special moments that arise at intimate festivals like the Citibank Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, where you might be standing in line to buy a bowl of noodles and suddenly you see one of the Writers standing on the sidewalk in the rain, jabbing a cell phone and saying to it, “Shit!” If you are an extrovert, of course, you’ll go up, introduce yourself, and offer to help. (“Do you need a ride back to your hotel? A towel?”) But if you’re not an extrovert, you’ll just sink back into your habitual self-loathing, hoping that the noodle vendor will be able to make change. You know she won’t be able to. She’ll ask you for the exact sum, and then you’ll be late for the next panel session because you have to go across the street and buy something you don’t need just to get small denominations, and then you’ll feel that the day is ruined now and you’d better go back to your room and maybe just write in your journal.