The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali
Volume 10 - Oct/Nov/Dec 2011
IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â‚Ź3.50
the soul of Bali in the heart of Ubud
The Restaurant facade of Komaneka at Bisma
“This is a fantastic hotel. The suite I had was spacious and comfortable with complimentary fruit and cookies. It had a large balcony overlooking the rice fields far below. The balcony had sun loungers all set up should I just have wished to laze around. The hotel is brimming with art and it is worth just having a wander around just to see what you can discover . One thing that you can’t fail to miss is the swimming pool. A very long infinity pool which has all the guests reaching for their cameras. Certainly worth an early morning dip. Overlooking the iconic pool is a very nice restaurant spread over two floors. Breakfast there was excellent . It is an a la carte service with a plenty to choose from and all delicious”. - SY. Manchester - UK
KOMANEKA
Monkey Forest | Tanggayuda | Bisma | Rasa Sayang Your home address in Ubud +62 361 976090 sales@komaneka.com www.komaneka.com
aryswarung contemporary balinese asian cuisine
coconut king prawns suna cekuh balinese spice
martini bar | wine cellar | degustation menu | cigar lounge
shopping dining..., shopping dining..., shopping...
treasures toko antique
collection from bali & other islands ubud main st.
t62.361.975053
gallery of gold jewelry aryswarung@dekco.com
w w w. d e k c o . c o m
Volume Ten Oct/Nov/Dec 2011
The Bud Agustina Ardie, Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa / sales & marketing Riri Suwito Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri Super Stu The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali
Volume 10 - October/November/December 2011
Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Saka Wahana Cipta
IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 €3.50
Licence 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99
Cover photo: Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.
Advertising enquiries Tel/Fax: (+62 361) 8446341, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.thebudmag.com Email: info@thebudmag.com Canggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Saka Wahana Cipta
yPod Bali V.2.0 – The Yak and Bud Magazines' iPhone App featuring the best places to go in Ubud and beyond – is available from the App. Store.
!"#$%ation
restaurant
Seasonal Cuisine...
Immerse yourself in a culinary journey at Plantation Restaurant. Executive Chef, Eelke Plasmeijer (previously of Michelin-starred Vermeer and SHY, Jakar ta) and his culinary team passionately prepare a modern seasonal tasting and a la car te menu. Enjoy the best local ingredients prepared using classic French culinary techniques, and served with a refreshing modern twist. Star t your journey with a fine selection of our signature seasonal cocktails, infused vodkas, araks and syrups – all made in-house from the best produce the season has to offer. Plantation Restaurant, an open Balinese-style restaurant, with a central bar, towering coconut pillars and traditional alang-alang roof, creates an exotic ambience for diners as they feast on stunning views of our natural surroundings.
For reservations, contact: Alila Ubud - Plantation Restaurant T: 0361 975 963 E: ubud@alilahotels.com
destination wherever.
The Cellardoor, Komplek Dewa Ruci 3 Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai, Kuta Bali, Indonesia T +62(361) 767-422 F +62(361) 768 418 sales@hattenwines.com www.hattenwines.com
A restful retreat, mistify and excite... Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia Phone : 62-361-970388 Fax : 62-361-970377 Email : sales@tepisawahvillas.com www.tepisawahvillas.com
10 12 16 24 37 38 74 78 82 88 90 92 98
Out of the box Meanings far and near Front up New and noted Art Writing on the wall culture Royal energy the list Guidezine goodness Those were the days Sulpher and crumpet traditions Mekar Bhuana brushstrokes Sekala, niskala
24
Taksu Rising.
feature God made them blind exhibits Tanna Tho food Esprit de cuisine Fiction Transit Fields Runaways Socks
74
Mekar Bhuana.
Why are we here? What does Bali mean to us? What's changing and what's staying the same? In the midst of metrosexuality and motorised mayhem; building booms; there, backstrap looms – a gentle warp and weft that takes us to a quiet place; welcome respite from life apace. We're in this together. We are witnessing an evolution that might be somewhat scary for some. Monetarily magnificent for others. All in between are riding their own waves - of passion, of resurrection, of cathartic reincarnation. Or simply surfing. Kids on bikes give us the yikes. What are the policy platforms that might alleviate our perennial paranoia, our perplexing parking problems. We have to talk . . . to each other.
Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers. In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986. Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service. “We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.
Community cannot be lost. Separation is suicide. In this issue we meet some of the people who are doing their level best to come to grips with what grips us. We meet John Fawcett - a man who is bringing sight to the unsighted. We sit down with Tjok Gde Kerthyasa who is attempting to address the dengue blight, and who brings a sensitive semblance to balancing long-standing ritual with modernity. A young couple, Vaughan and Evie, who are conserving the arcane music of Bali and trying to bring it to a world that, all too often, shuns the past in favour of more populist themes. Susanna Perini takes us on a journey into the artworld, ably supported by Wayan Sika. We visit Bridges - the new dining darlings of Ubud for a fab feed. Enjoy . . .
Threads of Life Ibu Dayu Ngurah Puniari is a linchpin in preserving Bali’s cultural traditions. Her speciality is textile weaving, and her focus is on researching its significance in the context of Balinese Hindu ceremonial rites. Born in Sinduwati village, Sidemen, Karangasam, Ibu Dayu has spent the past 18 years passing on her knowledge to students at the Siddah Mahang High School in Sidemen. Her teaching includes all aspects of the “back-strap” loom indigenous to the Karangasam regency – weaving process. Her research and expertise also extends to the growing and preservation of natural dye plants in the region. In 2003 Ibu Dayu published a book – in Bahasa Indonesia - about the nature and meaning of sacred Balinese textiles.
And through the efforts of volunteers working with The Indonesian Heritage Society her book has been translated into English so greater numbers of us might understand the significance of her timeless art. The Threads of Life Foundation launched the Indonesian/English version of the book on October 6 at its Ubud gallery to coincide with the Ubud Readers and Writers Festival. Proceeds from sales of Kain Bebali (Sacred Cloth) will go to Ibu Dayu’s continued research efforts; to the Indonesian Heritage Society; and to the efforts of the Threads of Life fair trade business in preserving weaving communities on Bali and throughout Indonesia. Map ref. H.7
Culture Vultures Rejoice! There’s a new experience awaiting you in the village of Kedewatan, not far from Ubud centre. Every Thursday and Sunday at 7pm, village life is revealed to visitors when the Banjar puts on a show of epic proportions: Non-lethal cock fights; a bamboo orchestra; and a whole young coconut drink to welcome you. The mystical Barong dance will be performed: the mythical animal is a metaphor for the affirmation and protection of humankind, and the nemesis of the widow-witch, Rangda, who is out to get us all. The dance is the classical tale of good versus evil. Spooky . . . The dances send dancers into a trance-like state as the ebb and flow of dark and light clash . . . we won’t tell you who wins.
Maya Resort Stretch For the exercise-conscious there’s a new space in Ubud to stretch out those tendons and ligaments and tighten up those tummies. Maya Resort and Spa recently opened a new fitness centre featuring state-of-the art equipment. The 187 square metre upper level provides a tranquil area to practice yoga – with stunning views over the resort gardens and adjacent rice terraces. Open every day from 6am to 9pm, the fitness centre offers the services of a personal trainer. And as part of the resort’s wellness programme a one-hour complimentary “yoga for beginners” course for guests takes place in the new yoga pavilion. The new facilities complement Maya Resort and Spa’s other holistic wellness programmes. www.mayaubud.com
Maf ref. L.18
Bar Luna Spirit Thursday evenings at Bar Luna are a treat for musical aficionados and culture vultures alike. Starting at 7pm you can get the sustenance in while listening to chilled-out tunes played live on stage in the open, airy space – a precursor to the main event . . . Around 8pm a special guest – sometimes a writer, a musician, actor, singer, poet or playwright – will take the stage for a reading, rendition, or reminiscence of what she or he has been doing in recent times. These sessions are hosted by an MC who will throw the proceedings open to a lively Q& A session. Recently the multi-various Tatiana Scali recited her poetry (in Spanish and English), sang beautifully, and presented a short film she’d made. Tatiana is described as a “free-spirited” French woman. She was certainly entertaining – albeit that one wag’s main question was: “How about lunch next Sunday.” So put Thursday night in the “to do” page of your personal organiser . . . you never know who’ll turn up. But you’re probably going to have a great time. And you might learn something. www.casalunabali.com
Map ref. L.8
art
Matteo Basilé : THISORIENTED.
Susanna Perini from Biasa talks to The Bud about a new book - Art beyond the year 2000 (Seni Setelah Tahun 2000) - that explores the structures and meanings of contemporary art.
art
Arya Pandjalu : Musyawarah Para Burung or Discussion Among Birds.
art
Susanna, how did this book project come about? The book is one of several projects derived from my special encounters on Bali with Professor Achille Bonito Oliva (a.k.a. ABO) - a powerful academic figure, internationally famous as the creator of the Transavanguardia concept, defining an important contemporary art movement and its artists. ABO accepted my invitation to spend a summer in Indonesia to curate Matteo Basile’s exhibition in Biasa Art Space. During his free time here, he let me introduce my Indonesian discoveries, meaning we marathon - hopped between artist’s studios and art meetings across Java and Bali. He said players in the Indonesian art market failed to properly use what he calls “the system of art” - which is responsible in the west for validating through artistic, aesthetic and economic values - the “contemporary art phenomena”. In his own words: “The artist, the museum director, the curator, the gallerist, the dealer, the collector, the critic, the auction house, and finally the public . . . each of them play an important and equivalent role. Only through all of their equally valid existences contemporary art can sustain itself.” How will it help Indonesian artists and art students to better
understand the context of their work? South-East Asian contemporary artists, especially Indonesians, strive to express a “glocal” identity by having to digest an enormous amount of globalized western parameters while maintaining strong roots in local cultural awareness. Young artists and art curators often miss adequate tools - such as a good grasp of English and/ or Indonesian translations to understand what is the sociocultural genesis of western visual thoughts often appropriated as strong contemporary references. How does it differ from conventional art books? Art beyond the year 2000 (Seni Setelah Tahun 2000) is an essay by ABO which is currently used as an art history text book in Italian universities and constantly updated. He reveals issues related to the global system of art, examining the geographies of art and listing contemporary art movements. It starts in the 1960s and analyzes the passage from neoavant-garde to the trans-avantgarde, and to the multi-medial art of our time. It is a comprehensive critique of artists and movements of the first decade of our new millennium. The Indonesian issue includes an analysis of artists active in Asia and South-East Asia.
Astari Rasjid, Guilt Trip Series : BIRONGBERRY #1.
art
Ugo Untoro : Poem of Blood #3.
culture
Spirits in the sky.
TAKSU Life essences and mystical presences, holistic medicines and metropolitan madnesses – Andrew Hall throws meanings and metaphors around with Tjokorda Gde Kerthyasa at a vibrant historic cremation. photos by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.
culture
Keeping the spirit alive.
On August 8 Anak Agung Niang Rai was cremated in a ceremony that featured an elaborate and very tall tower, and the largest (and anatomically detailed) bull I have ever seen. Three people broke legs attempting to move the ritual paraphernalia from Ubud palace to the cremation ground. So what do the younger generation of Ubud royals think about such ostentatious ceremonial rites? I sat down with Tjokorda Gde Kerthyasa (a practitioner of homeopathic medicine) to investigate such matters and to discover how a young prince juggles long-standing ritualistic practise and life in a place that is gravitating ever closer to the western post-modernist metaphor. “The way that Ubud exists and is run at the moment supports a symbiotic relationship (between the palace and the people),” Tjok De says. “The cultural guidelines are adhered to . . . and people from all classes respect that.” He says that the class/caste system is rarely questioned because, “the way Ubud or Bali exists the way it does ... for better or worse, is defined by its cultural heritage.” Accepted and revered by the vast majority. But, according to Tjok De, what might be called into question with respect to the most recent royal cremation is the scale of the funereal symbology. Was the scale so large because it was designed to be a demonstration of power, as well as respect for a venerable member of the royal family? “When you put it like that I guess I did have feelings along those lines on the day,” Tjok De says. “We have a great word - taksu - the energy of something. The intangible feeling or soul. “Something can be 20 feet high or six feet high and the six-foot-high thing can have more taksu. “When something is made with genuine love and care . . . the taksu is infused into it. “And when something is made out of more materialistic . . . spectacular . . . motivations it can lose taksu.” And could this way of looking at things be extrapolated to what is happening to the wider Ubud, whereby traffic congestion and infrastructural inadequacy appear to have become the norm? “We are seeing, on many different levels, a lack of proportion, whether it’s because of outside influences or whether it’s because of us (the people of Ubud),” Tjok De says. “A 40-seater tour bus going along Ubud main road (for
example) – the road just isn’t designed for them. And another easy one is water pressure . . . I’ve lived in Denpasar and sometimes there’s zero water pressure because there are so many people using it . . . (and back in Ubud) people are building these large, gaudy buildings and houses . . .” “. . . we’re seeing a lack of proportion on a material scale, on a social scale . . . widening gaps.” So what’s your Bali - your real Bali and your ideal Bali? “My Bali is a lot of time driving on roads that are overcrowded. My Bali’s also being part of ceremonies and continuing the very valuable heritage we have here so that it remains in proportion,” Tjok De says. But he raises an interesting point: the fact that in a relatively newly democratised Indonesia ceremonial events are increasingly being used as rallying points for various people’s political aspirations. “It’s a big thing . . . and a powerful vehicle both for retaining our cultural heritage, but also a fantastic opportunity for getting people together and getting out a political message (for those who wish to be elected),” Tjok De says. He sees, however, that his own particular role in the socio-cultural milieu is to be a spokesman for retaining a proportional view in the balancing act between the old and the new - the scrabble towards modernity and the retention, and conservation of, long-standing cultural practise. But Tjok De is not so easy to pigeonhole because he embodies (as a result of being brought up in Australia) and embraces two different cultural identities. “My challenge is that I was born like this for a reason . . . and one of the things that comes out of the western philosophy is ethics, and I think that’s something we could do more with in Bali and Indonesia,” he says. But, I ask, within the socio-religious structures here there is a certain morality, so how do you think this works in the context of ethical structures you’ve spoken about? “The religious teachings are quite esoteric - they’re very profound actually - but I think the profundity goes over the heads of many practitioners,” he answers. “There’s also a collective consciousness that I think is changing . . . for the better I hope. “A lot of the Hindu teachings are quite metaphorical they’re legends presented in a mystical, magical way . . . and it’s hard for even the best of us to put these teachings into everyday practice. Continued from Page 32.
culture
Royal rigour.
culture
Crowd control.
culture
Continued from Page 27.
“So I think that putting things in very plain language (is important) - like saying that it’s not good to throw your rubbish into a river, for example - is something that needs to start happening here.” He says that regardless of where blame lies, if any, for the negative things that are happening to Bali, at the end of the day all issues that need attention and dealing with are in the hands of the Balinese. So what cathartic moments have you had since you moved to Bali from Australia? “(Thinking about my medical practice) I get to treat people from Bali and other parts of Indonesia, I treat tourists . . . everyone from pig farmers to billionaires,” he says. “It’s amazing that I prescribe pretty much the same things for pig farmers and billionaires . . . “I get a lot of positive energy from doing that work.” Tjok De’s passion for homeopathic medicine has led him to do a research masters degree into an holistic approach to dealing with dengue fever; a disease that incapacitates thousands of people - and kills hundreds - on Bali and throughout the archipelago. “In Bali it’s the disease of our time - it’s most prevalent mosquito-born disease in the world,” he says. “. . . and the fact that every year in Bali it gets worse and worse is a sign coming from an holistic background - that something in nature is out of balance. It goes from the personal health of an individual to communities.” Tjok De is researching homeopathic remedies for the disease and when he succeeds in his endeavor he’ll go on to undertake a PhD on the issue - which not only costs lives here and in other places, but puts enormous economic and logistical stress on the health system and community structures. “We love to beat up on the old mozzie . .
. humans have never liked mozzies. Everyone loves to blame the vector,” he says. “But the latest findings (out of Brazil) say no: it’s not the number of mosquitoes per square kilometer, it’s the number of people per square kilometer that determines the virility and prevalence of dengue. “It’s quite simple - we are overly densely populated.” Hence the predominance of the disease around Denpasar, and increasingly the areas bounded by Kuta and Canggu. “Vacant buildings and dead rice paddies - because people no longer wish to farm... they want the cash - are perfect places for mosquitoes to breed,” he says. “But live rice paddies are not because there is an ecological balance. “So while it’s all about humans, we are also giving over a lot of space for mosquitoes.” It might be interesting to reflect that there is perhaps an equivalence between the increasing incidence of dengue and, for instance, death by traffic accident - they both have to do with the deployment (or lack thereof) of local resources and life-style choices; increasing population stresses; and a lack of harmony in private and community existence. “Rice fields are part of the soul of Bali and if we lose them there will be a big price to pay,” Tjok De says. “But we are moving more and more towards high-density living and that’s why my research is more focused on how to treat dengue than how to prevent it. “I think we’ve already made our choices.” And speaking of choices: do you know what Tjok De did when legs were broken at the cremation ceremony? First he helped carry one of the fallen to an ambulance, then he shook his head and went for a beer . . .
Out of one world . . . into the next.
culture
Fervour . . . enduring.
theLIST
Oct/Nov/December 2011
The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.
Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie.
the list
Betwixt brimstone fumaroles and floral borders VM gets in a spot of botanizing. I won’t forget Soetario in a hurry. It was a good 40 years ago when I was introduced to him, in a pool parlour, high in the hills of East Java. Of patrician aspect, long face well-weathered, close-set kindly eyes, with unbridged beak and resolute lips surmounted by bristly moustache , what you noticed most about him was his distinctly military bearing. It wasn’t until we started playing pool that I became aware of his peculiar gait, as he stamped heavily round the table with a jerky, disconnected motion. Sensing my curiosity, he smiled and then, to my amazement, hoicked up his right trouser to reveal a wooden leg. This was not one of your modern, newfangled prosthetic limbs, you understand, but a plain simple wooden leg. A peg-legged old moustache is what he was, and I grew to love him for it. Despite this apparent disability, Soetario was possessed of an unerring eye, and he beat me hands down handsomely. And afterwards, as we chatted over a couple of beers, I learnt that his leg had been shot off by the Dutch – in 1963 I think it was – during the final campaign in Irian Jaya. He’d been pensioned off then to run a flower-garden in Tretes, and it was here that our paths first crossed that memorable evening, those many years ago. Before taking his leave, he invited me to call on him the following day, which I said I would do most gladly.
Do you know Tretes? Better I should ask – did you know Tretes then, in the sixties and seventies, before people became more mobile, and the resort more fashionable? It was a heavenly place. To get there was in itself an adventure. Journeying from Denpasar by bus to Gilimanuk, early in the day, was a thrill, especially through the undulating downs of western Tabanan and that final stretch athwart the wilds of Djembrana. No less invigorating was the ferry ride across the strait to Ketapang, followed by leisurely short haul in a betjak to the railway station. As one who was brought up on trains drawn by steam-locomotives, I have long preferred this mode of travel to any other, and I
declare that the run on the old Banyuwangi to Surabaya Blowpipe Express was simply nonpareil. Perhaps it still is. The track swiftly ascends behind the Ijen and Iyang ranges, passing through plantations of teak and patches of forest, where monkeys cavort in the canopy directly overhead, punctuated by stops at hamlets with such quaint and unlikely names as Glenmore - enduring testimony
to the former sway of Scots planters and engineers. The trick was to open the rear door of the last carriage and sit on the deck, with your feet dangling over the edge – a most exhilarating experience, especially when careering over flimsy trestle-bridges, devoid of parapet or bed, and gazing through the gaps between the sleepers into the dreamy depths below. I don’t suppose you can do that any more. You probably weren’t supposed to do it then, but no-one seemed to mind very much, and the conductor seldom ventured beyond the confines of the dining-car. When the train finally chugged to a halt at Bangil, there would be a fleet of oplet awaiting. This consisted of ancient American jalopies, heavily modified with their interiors ripped out to be replaced by wooden benches and floors, effectively the precursor of your modern estate-car or shooting-brake. Straining uphill in second, these potent beasts took barely half an hour to climb the forbidding side of the Gunung Welirang (Sulphur Mountain) and attain the terminus, Tretes marketplace, situated at an elevation of a bit under 3,000 feet; however it was necessary to engage bottom gear in order to negotiate the final succession of stupendous hairpin bends beyond the sulphur processing plant at Pandaan. Of course there was little enough traffic on the roads in those days; and there was no chance of one’s progress being stymied by a cavalcade of plodding tourist buses. Once arrived in Tretes, there was no need of wheels anyway. In this compact hill resort, all ground was traversed on foot or on horseback. There was an Continued on Page 40.
the list
Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...
A ADVENTURE Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife). Their white water rafting has been relocated further upstream, to enjoy a longer and more exclusive stretch of water with the facilities and access being better bar none not only in Indonesia and Asia, possibly the best white water rafting concern in the world!
www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills.
Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.
Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali.
The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as
ANTIQUES Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. Bali Bird Walks Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975009.
Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.
of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates. ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS 3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations. Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists.
the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region. ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number
Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Map Ref: X.10 Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com
the list
Continued from Page 38.
intrinsic calm about the place. Outside the old Dirgahayu, a gaggle of Tenggerese syces was always in evidence, willing to hire out their charges for the equivalent of a few shillings for the entire morning or afternoon. These were magnificent, sturdy creatures, richly caparisoned with immaculately kept trappings – such a contrast to the emaciated and overworked nags one was accustomed to in Bali – and it was a joy to ride them. Beyond the marketplace, the town itself seemed to consist in the main of ante-bellum villas, standing in spacious, luxuriantly vegetated gardens, plus an assortment of crumbling resort hotels – to each appointed extensive grounds and splendid swimming-pools, equipped with slides and chutes and springboards, and fed by perennial crystal springs gushing from the mountainside in every direction. It was a well-preserved, if decoratively decadent, microcosm; a throw-back to a more gracious and civilized age, recalling the hill stations of Burma and North India. A colonial legacy by no means disagreeable; tranquil and sedate, sequestered in its mountain fastness. To be there was to be elated. It was heavenly. I revelled in it and it seemed to me then, though you might deem it a selfish notion, that I had the whole place to myself. To all appearances, there was simply nobody there. Did I say nobody? Well, aside from the bustle of the morning market, the streets of Tretes remained strangely deserted for the better part of the day. Only with the onset of eventide, particularly at weekends, was there any noticeable incidence of human presence and activity – then would appear the inevitable throng of hawkers announcing
their wares, and small groups of individuals clustering about the steaming carts, or out for an evening stroll. To a casual visitor and observer like myself, what was most remarkable was the extraordinary number of pretty girls that perambulated, mostly holding hands and chattering animatedly, and comprising easily the major portion of the twilight parade. They held their shapely heads high, and were not at all shy. And, without exercising the enquiring mind unduly, it didn’t take long to ascertain the reason why. ***
Now where was I? Ah Soetario! Having established a formal mise-enscène, we are now about to take up his invitation. It was a glorious morning, as were practically all mornings in this blessed resort, nestling in a fold of the eastern slope of Sulphur Mountain, well protected from the ravages of the north-west monsoon. I strode past the market-place which was still in full swing; masses of locally cultivated vegetables and fruit, piled up in great pyramids; most outstanding of all the selection of bananas, ranging from diminutive pisang
susu (milk bananas) to massive pisang gajah (jumbo bananas) which were anything up to three feet long. Never have I seen the like elsewhere. It didn’t take me long to find Wisma Asmara, for such was the name inscribed on a painted plaque, suspended above the porch of Soetario’s beautiful bungalow, situated at the head of crescent gravel drive and fronting sumptuous floral borders of lupins and dahlias and fiery red salvia. Wisma Asmara – Lovers’ Lodge I guess would be a fair translation – and a most apt appellation, as I would very soon discover. Soetario was seated without, under a trellis trained with brilliant crimson Cardinal Vine. He was clad in sarong and vest, peg-leg resting on a stool, and clearly enjoying the cool breeze and warm sun. Following an exchange of courtesies, he asked if I would care to try a cup of his home-grown coffee, then shouted instructions through the open door. Presently a tray with brimming cups emerged, borne by the most exquisite little girl I’d ever seen. Barring the prototypical pert snub nose, her face recalled that of Giotto’s Weeping Madonna: her eyes were unimaginably huge and black, unaccentuated by the least trace of makeup. As far as I could see – and my powers of observation were in no way diminished by the previous night’s excesses – she had on a diaphanous négligé and plain white panties, and nothing else. She couldn’t have been more than sixteen or seventeen: it was difficult to judge. Noting my riveted gaze, Soetario guffawed and clapped me on the shoulder. “Meet one of my daughters,” said he. “Her name is Soelastri, and she makes the best coffee. Have a sip, then let me introduce you to her sisters.” I followed him into the house, and Continued on Page 42.
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Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.
Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls.
Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm.
Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng. Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 . Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist.
Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1. Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan.
Infinity Gallery Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 www.liquid-art-gallery.com Infinity Gallery displays "Liquid Art", which is ultra high-speed photography of fluids in motion. The timefreezing method allows you to see hidden wonders of the natural world. Think of it as a visual spa, in a modern and elegant gallery setting. Open daily from 9am to 10pm. Free entry. Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer.
It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road. Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays. Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti
Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting. Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.com Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community. Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B.
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I don’t remember exactly, because it was all rather overwhelming, but I was introduced to several of Soelastri’s sisters, divine apparitions one and all, and all well employed in sweeping and laundering, and chopping stuff up in the kitchen. It was a delightful household, radiating a wholesome harmony, and I complimented my host on it. “If you really like it, why don’t you come and stay?” he asked. And I thought to myself, well … why not? But – and a very big and bothersome but – I was bound that very day to be on my way to Surabaya, in order to buy some bits and pieces for my kasba in Bali. You couldn’t get anything then in Denpasar. I explained my mission and thanked Soetario for his hospitality. Another time perhaps … Under the watchful eye of Soelastri and her giggling sisters, I polished off my coffee and was about to depart, when Soetario button-holed me. Seeing that I was on my way to Surabaya, he asked if I would do him a favour. He required some kind of paint to redecorate the house: two large tins would suffice. Would I be so kind …? It wasn’t at all my intention to return to Tretes just then: I’d planned to do all my shopping; overnight in the old Imperial; and catch the afternoon flight back to Tuban. But I felt like doing Soetario a favour, and a day or two added to my itinerary was neither here nor there. Besides, I fairly admit, the prospect of seeing again Soelastri and her sisters was not an altogether displeasing one. Promising I would return in a day or two with the goods, and bidding fond farewells to the inmates of the establishment, I took my leave. It was nearing midday, and I had yet to check out of the Hotel Pemandian where I’d been ensconced the past couple
of days. At least (looking back 40 odd years after the event) I imagine it was there; or it might have been the old MacLaine Watson chummery, situated just up the road from the Pemandian, which was later taken over by Malcolm MacDonald. It matters not. My memory is still refreshingly clear concerning the Wisma Asmara. When I returned there a day or two later, bearing pots of paint, the first thing I noticed was the army staff car parked in the driveway; its driver wearing
military fatigues lounged on the runningboard, smoking a kretek cigarette. Hello, I thought, we must have here some highranking officer popping in for a quick one. Just then Soetario appeared, looking for all the world as though the roof had caved in.
“Thank God you’re here,” said he. “My wife’s been suddenly taken ill, and I must leave immediately to visit her at the hospital in Jember. My girls will make you some coffee. Please excuse me while I go and change.“ He stamped off into a back-room. I don’t think he even noticed the paint. Presently he reappeared, and I got the shock of my life. He was wearing military dress uniform, with three rows of campaign ribbons, assorted insignia including wings, plus four pips indicating the rank of full colonel. His stern and dignified demeanour, not to say impressive appearance, was in no way diminished by the wooden stump peeping from under his trouser-leg. He halted in front of me, taking both my hands in his. “I may be away for a few days,” he said. “I want you to stay here and look after the place until I return.” He might have added – “and that’s an order!” And I would have saluted him and barked – “Yes Sir!” But the order was implicit, and I was in no mind to disobey. The girls gathered round, as Soetario clambered into the car without a backward glance, then sped off in a cloud of dust, and we all stood there waving, until long after he was lost to view. *** Life is a succession of watersheds, some of more moment that others, conferring degrees of reliance and responsibility. As the former manager of the import division of a major trading company in Hong Kong, employing innumerable personnel – clerks, secretaries, salesmen, compradores, shroffs, amanuenses – and answerable only to a managing director or taipan, you might reckon me a suitable candidate to run more or less any commercial enterprise. But here was a challenge altogether alien in nature that was as unprecedented as it was beyond any empirical prop. Well, I thought, as I surveyed my montane retreat, bright Continued on Page 44.
BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century,
Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men.
TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters
W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3. Tel: 0361-977978. pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.
B BARS
Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh. Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.com Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas.
– is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses. Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building. Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit.
Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is modAustralian inspired – that is, fresh local organic produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an openplan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – their Virgin Wheatgrass Mojito has to be the best pick-me-up of all time - it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day. Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832
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borders, and the precious blooms that adorned them, you’d better make the most of it, lad. If ever it could be said that you were a bit of a flower-fancier, now is your chance to do a spot of serious botanizing. And now, though febrile statistics and financial considerations may be deemed anathema, my new found responsibilities render it essential that some account be compiled. Besides, the figures are not only relative to my situation but an eye-opening and titillating contemporary commentary on it. There were generally eight inmates of the Wisma Asmara, including two maids, though the actual division of labour was sometimes hard to define. I remember them well – lovely lovelies – even if some of the names no longer register. Soelastri, with the madonnaish mien, we have already met. Fresh, fragrant, pure white Madonnalily. Then there were the ‘three Es’ – Elly, Eva, and Erna. I christened them my ‘Heart’s-ease’ – divinely variegated wild pansies; a trio of blooms beyond compare. And Ratna, my bunga ratna, the name given by the Balinese to the immortal purple amaranth that adorns the daily dish of offerings. It is also the Malay generic name for jewel. Perhaps if I thought long and hard enough about the missing names, they would come back to me. I remember only that they all had intensely subjective floral notes. What was remarkable about Ratna, apart from her soft, plump, impeccable beauty, was her unique literate faculty. She was the only member of that
celestial household who could read or write. I can see her returning from the local high school in her pristine white starched uniform every day at midafternoon, blue ribbons on her braided tresses, bright red plastic schoolbag in her hand. Had any transaction occurred during her absence, it would be immediately noted in the exercise book she kept with her other books in which were presumably recorded history essays and the sort of sums you would expect to see on the classroom blackboard. Truly a gem our Ratna. So what were the figures to be accounted? I can recall them distinctly, for they are of more than mere passing interest, as well as a potent reflection on the inflated fiscal sphere in which we now find ourselves. First and foremost on the daily tariff was the standard levy of
2,000 rupiah for what was known in the trade as a ‘short time’. The amount was doubled should it be agreed to entertain the guest overnight. In those days, there were 400 rupiah to the Yankee dollar, it is well worth remembering. Nowadays it is 10,000, give or take a thousand odd, as it has been for the past dozen years or so. And, although I once studied economics and accountancy, here is something
I’ve never been able to twig. Why was the movement of the Thai baht always derided during the so-called krismon of ’98, relative to other currencies? When I first visited the ‘City of Angels’ over fifty years ago, there were 20 baht to the dollar. Now there are 30. Whose money remains in better shape: whose the most dismally debased? It makes absolutely no sense at all. But money is not the object of this exercise. It is not by any means the be-all and end-all. I do not view this as a commercial enterprise. Nobody had any money to speak of in those days, though my pockets were fairly full, and I was concerned that not only I should have the benefit of it. And though comparisons may be considered odious most of the time – you would not liken me unto a whoremonger – I will nevertheless admit quite happily to being designated an occasional flower-fancier (which is as good a synonym as any), with an assortment of blooms about me that, besides being most fragrant, were simply breathcatching. It would have been about the middle of the week when Soetario took off, so there wasn’t a great deal happening. Most of the action was confined to weekends, when people came from Surabaya in the main to enjoy their holiday villas, or expressly to have a dirty one. The denizens of Wisma Asmara were nothing if not acquiescent, and we very soon developed a daily round that was anything but routine, yet seemed to suit everyone admirably. Around mid-morning each day, after the girls had breakfasted and tidied up, I’d announce: “Right, whose turn is it to stay, and who’d care to accompany me to the Dirgahayu?” Or it may have been the Pemandian with its Olympic-sized Continued on Page 46.
Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite secret hangouts. Literary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Set on a ravine of the Oos River this new trendy threetiered cafe cum wine bar cum restaurant is set to rock its riverside terraces. Their Divine Wine Cellar stocks Old and New World wines and hosts Divine Hour from 5-7pm every day with a glasses of wine starting from 50++. There is a cute bites menu as well as a full on a la carte. A private dining room and bottle shop complete this all-in-one venue of Ubudosity! Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer.
Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975354. Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one. Flava Lounge Jl. Pengosekan. Tel. 0361-972953. www.flavaloungebali.com Young, hip and urban (or as urban as one can be in Ubud) yet with a holistic feel. Comfy seating, shisha pipes and free WiFi that mixes well with the juices, the cocktails and café style menu. Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at Han Snel Gallery a distinctly convivial atmosphere...it's easy to imagine the late artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ sayan Sophistication is the name of the game here (unsurprisingly given the
Four Seasons brand). Perched atop the breathtaking Sayan Ridge, the vibe is mystically romantic. World-class views and flavours. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic recently refurbished to combine air con comfort and outdoor pavilion seating, that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm. Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum.
Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants). Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan. Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot. com When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks. Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere. Warung Kopi @Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com Views of rice paddy fields and landscaped gardens over a cup of coffee, a delicious brownie and a good book. There is nothing better. One of Ubud's best cafe hangouts. WiFi is supplied - if you must, but we suggest getting off your Faceboook and enjoying
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pool, or that other rococo palace, set in an ornamental garden, replete with fantastic crumbling follies and grottoes and a spectrum of sparkling pools, designed for the enjoyment of swimmers and non-swimmers of all ages, from tots to tottering adults and (so it seemed to me) specifically for the delectation of a host of enchanting sirenes, intent on enticing the unpaired wayfarer who should chance on their domain. The name of this pleasure-ground was Tretes Raya. I remember it well. And it was to this resort that we repaired for the most part. Having decided most amicably who should remain behind to form a skeleton crew, usually consisting of one demi-mondaine and her maid – clearly it would be to their advantage should there occur any custom and corresponding perks – we would sally forth in the sunlight, all six or so of us, to our chosen venue. Inevitably the divine Ratna alone would be absent, for she was bound to pursue her studies at SMP Pandaan situated down the hill. Arriving at our destination, a modest entrance fee would be demanded by hotel reception, which also included the hire of bathing costumes for everyone. That these were relics from another age, drab, one-piece, ill-fitting and frayed around the edges, merely added to the general hilarity of the occasion. To see the girls disporting thus, in their sodden, not altogether clinging bathers, was, I do now declare unproudly, the greatest joy of all. And as I watched their frolicking, it occurred to me that I’d not been accompanied by a happier, more animated bunch in my life; yet I was bound to reflect on the hardships some of them may have had to endure in earlier times. There remained the suspicion of unwanted pregnancies, faithless boyfriends and unforgiving kinfolk, not to say the bitter fruit of
human bondage. Might not that yearning wide-eyed look derive from stark privation? However, I cannot say such dire reflections distracted me unduly at the time. I resigned myself to the wanton ways and wiles of Sybaris, and revelled with my merry train of nymphs in their new found freedom. Wrenching my gaze away one day at Tretes Raya from this bevy of bathing belles, I happened to glance over the low retaining wall into jalan raya Tretes, the main road that led down the hill, where there was presented to me a sight that I found both arresting and disturbing. Indeed the contrast in spectacle was quite shocking. An endless procession of little ragged men unfolded before me, each bearing poles on their shoulders from which were suspended panniers of brimstone crystals. They bounced along at a frenetic pace, on bandy legs hell-bent, eyes staring, calves bulging, grunting. From the squalid alleys of Hogarth and Doré came these grotesque misshapen men. They were the netherworldly Selenites of H.G. Wells. On further enquiry I discovered that these automata were known as the penambang welirang, the men who mined the sulphur mountain; and not altogether wisely, I resolved to investigate their progress. It would make a change from poolside perving. So, on Sunday, the busiest day of the week, I left my charges at home under the unjaundiced eye of imperishable Ratna, and ascended the 4,000 odd remaining feet to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. Not a hard climb compared to some I’ve done, especially when unencumbered. It is when you arrive at the top that the nightmare begins. Hellish is an apt description. Projecting through the parched lunar landscape, a series of craggy fumaroles spit out the molten sulphur which coagulates on hitting the atmosphere, and is then greedily seized upon by the
waiting chain-gang. The stench and toxic vapours are overpowering, but the band of tattered men grinds on regardless. A sudden change in the direction of the breeze will find you enveloped in a cloud of suffocating fumes in which it is easy to succumb – mortally. It was desperate. Deadly. Amongst the sulphur men, I was later informed, are some who do actually perform two trips up-anddown each day, between summit and processing plant in the valley – an overall distance of 20km – bearing an average hundredweight (50 to 60 kilos). Never mind the pittance they receive for their exertions: the life expectancy of such men is no more than 40 years! Monday, back to normal, thank the Lord! And school hols have commenced, so at last my everlasting Ratna may join us at our preferred watering-place. No holiday though for the sulphur men. They would fetch and carry till they dropped. I surveyed my nubile minions in the pool, and pondered …. I was reminded of Hymie and his questing after what he called his ‘fucking paradise’. He was a character, you may recall, in one of those Olympia Press publications that were not to be discovered in the school library. Henry Miller’s Tropic of Cancer, I believe it was. From Dante’s Inferno to Hymie’s ultimate fucking paradise. I’d experienced both in the space of a few fleeting hours. Talk about polarity and Yin and Yang. Here was I, on top of the world, embraced beyond measure by the unmitigated duality of it. Ratna, my dear, I must say I think I prefer you in your school uniform. Would you ask the waiter to bring me another large Bintang please? Not that it really matters, but have you heard when Soetario might return? No idea… in another week or two perhaps.
CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. the breezes and the view or one of the many workshops or courses on offer. BOOK SHOPS Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here. Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here.
thankfulness) is a forwardthinking clothing brand dedicated to freedom. With the focus on ‘you’, the people at Anjaly produce high quality, eco-friendly threads that are for more than just yoga. Simplicity and harmony guide their designs and organic cotton is their medium. Anjaly is paving the way for us, as individuals, to take stock of
opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in. Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18 Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique
Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles. All dresses, sarongs, shirts and scarves at Divya – which is part of Nomad Restaurant on Ubud Main Street – are individually hand made using the ‘batik tulis’ process, which means patterns are hand-drawn and painted. Prices range from $70 to $180. Each piece is entirely original – no mass produced cottons here. BOTANIC GARDENS
Boutiques
what we wear and how we feel wearing it and have come up with an option to make us all feel freer.
Anjaly Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-971599 www.anjalybali.com Map Ref. M.9 Born out of gratitude, inspired by yoga and a tribute to being green, Anjaly (Sanskrit for
Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion
for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the everpopular and ever-expanding Dandelion.
Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours. com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.
Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115
Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja. Tel: 0361-7463389.
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DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.
C
| Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.
CAVIAR & CHAMPAGNE
COOKING CLASSES
Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.
Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located
COCKFIGHTING Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun
amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and
fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Each session includes a lavish Balinese feast with complete class notes. Guests of the Honeymoon Guesthouses receive a 10% discount on all cooking classes. Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478.
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www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow. Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education. The Secret Garden Cooking School Penestanan Kaja. Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com One and two-day hands-on intensive courses will allow you to learn, understand and appreciate Balinese cooking at its best. Clinics Prima Medika Hospital
(Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the
high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent addition is a women's medical spa offering ozone treatments, basic pre-med check ups and a variety of feminine hygiene treatments.
Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.6 Whilst one half of Macan Tidur (otherwise known as Sleeping Tiger) is for exquisite antiques, the other half supports local craftsmen to continue their creative traditions whilst also supporting innovations. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. On the hill that leads to cocktails or culture – just steps away from Naughty Nuri’s and the Neka Museum.
world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the
CRAFTS Indigo Jl. Monkey Fores. Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories.
Sayan Square Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 081236 806100. A one-stop shop where you can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule. Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B. Tel: 0361-970992.
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OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.
D DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.
E ECO Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armaresort.com This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as
he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung... and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape.
centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee.
The Linda Garland Estate Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974017. Linda Garland’s worldrenowned river-estate is an amazing tribute to the potential of bamboo in all its forms. Mick Jagger loved this place so much he got married here...well sort of.
FESTIVALS
The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org. A powerful community jointventure school and event
Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.
F Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event.
Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival. com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.
G GLASS Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan. Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised
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centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.
Threads of Life works with, the gallery also features a variety of fine crafts made by traditional artisans, including fine traditional basketry, pottery along with homewares such as pillows and tablerunners, and wearable art. HEALTH
Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha – there are two native healers more or less in residence – and to Living Foods with Sakti, their fine dining vegan restaurant. With eight healing rooms, a beauty sanctuary, five suites for residential healing, two pools – for Watsu and Healing
Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA. Treatments exclusively for women are also now part of the programme.
GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).
HOMESTAYS
H
Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com
Handicrafts Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Art Center Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-972187 www.threadsoflife.com While Threads of Life Gallery mostly displays and sells natural dyed traditional textiles made by the 1200 weavers on the 11 islands that
Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.com Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high quality standard for energetic treatments. Open Monday – Saturday from 10:30 – 7:30 pm
Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Taking healing and healthy living to a new level,
water dancing – a laboratory, meeting rooms and a myriad of curative treatments Fivelements is going 'deeper', way deeper, than others on Bali have gone before.
Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366.
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NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.
www.alamidahbali.com Padi Prada Suite – Resto – Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972 & 970979. www.balihotels.com/ubud/ padiprada.php Sania`s House Jl. Karna 7. Tel: 0361-975535. Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079. www.baliswasti.com Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-975017. Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-973381. HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com
Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41011. www.alilahotels.com One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. All rooms face the ocean with clear views across the straits to Nusa Penida. Alila Manggis is famed for its cooking school specialising in Eastern Balinese cuisine. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches along the ridge of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool villas and four valley villas offer superb one-up-manship for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer and a fabulous pavilion restaurant complete this one
of a kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues in Ubud. Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-894 6388. www.alilahotels.com/soori Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea and paddy fields, while still maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas. Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso coffee and tea making
facilities, 24-hour in-villa dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alila’s signature bath amenities. Amandari Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat. Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armaresort.com ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical
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gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape. Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com
‘excellents’ from Tripadvisor. Sophisticated seclusion on a magical ravine, their five private villas offer sumptuous and distinctive décor and expansive living areas. Panoramic views look out over Nature and are enhanced with horizonedge pools. The bedrooms
time to come down from the clouds, a little bit of you will always stay behind. Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com.
Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361978885/901888. www. bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities.
Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.
Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa. com Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com Bidadari Private Villas & Retreat Jl. Raya Kelabang Moding Tel: 0361-9000402 www. bidadarivillasubudbali. com Map Ref. G.8 In under one year, Bidadari Private Villas and Retreat, set in the outlying lushness of Ubud, has already garnered no less than 11
The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Guests can also order delicious meals from the extensive menu of the Casa Luna Restaurant, part of the same organisation under Ubud’s own Janet De Neefe.
and bathrooms are fit for angels no less, as is the spa and meditation area. Fully staffed and cuisined, you will probably find that when it is
Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com.
Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Cinta Inn has opened behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn. The pool is cool too. Rates +/USD125 include selections
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from Cinta Grill's awesome breakfast menu. COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other. This eco-friendly healing centre, crafted from sustainable bamboo, is located on the banks of the Ayung river and offers a unique visitation into the Balinese world of traditional healing, set on the edge of a verdant, tropical forest. Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/
sayan/ One of the most famous of Bali’s hotels as almost every year Condé Nast or some other venerable travel magazine nominates it for its fabulosity or service.
Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com
Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com Furama’s first resort property, Furama Villas & Spa Ubud is set amidst an expanse of serene rice fields, framed by the majestic Mount Batur.
Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com
Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com
Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com
Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan.
Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley. Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road.
The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com
Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel. Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest. Gianyar. Tel: 0361976090. www.komaneka. com Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is
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Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence.
metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an awardwinning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants).
Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com
Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com
Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa.
Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com
usually fully booked.
Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780
Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back! Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975236.
www.pertiwiresort.com
www.rijasa.com
Puri Tupai Private Garden Villa Jl. Raya Anak Agung Gede Rai, Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-981655 www.puri-tupai.com Chef, housekeeper, 24 hour security guards, 2 watchdogs, 6 squirrels, 83 koi and two turtles. Puri Tupai is heaven on earth with its two traditional joglos, four bedrooms, 25 metre pool, grass tennis court, sculpture garden and the mod cons of satellite TV and Internet connection. So fabulous you won't want leave the property! Excellent for families, excellent for friends.
Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com
Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan PO Box 141. Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com
Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it.
Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property. Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan. Tel: 0361-980333.
SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan. Tel: 0361-973610 www.thesamayabali.com A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chicest valley, Sayan.
Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.com Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool. Each room is designed with style and comfort in mind: the furniture is hand-picked and
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Colonial to suit the mood of this relaxed mid-range property. Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinesestyle accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists. The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’.
The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime.
Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An relative newcomer to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area.
The Linda Garland Estate Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974028. www.lindagarland.com
www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com
The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: D3 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants) The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi.
Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567.
Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as has merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style. Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024.
www.ulunubud.com Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing. Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Mawang Kelod, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com
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A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. The view from the balcony terraces and bathrooms is totally memorable. Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume. com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Set in rice paddy just north of Ubud, it ranks as one of the areas nicest places to stay.
been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons. The collection includes bracelets, necklaces, anklets and accessories. This very intricate weaving process was employed in the past to make gold woven jewelry for
JFF Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan No. 7. Tel: 0361-974652. www.jf-f.com Map Ref: I.8 Jean Francois Fichot, jeweller extraordinaire who exhibits world-wide, has long attracted the A list to his style of design and art. He blends, moulds and crafts everyday things
Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978513. www.yanvan.com Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)! Using rubber and silver as his ‘signature take’ on adorning the opposite sex, Yan Van’s unique pieces are masculine yet thankfully not overly biker-ish.
Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan. Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya. com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.
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www.decko.com Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes.
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JEWELRY
maraharajas and nobles of the Orient, but through Galaxyan it is now available for you too!
Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3. Tel: 0361- 971430. Map ref: K.10 www.galaxyanjewels.com The Galaxyan collection has
Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-976084. www.gemalabalisilver.com
found in nature into intricate pieces of art. JFF’s gold earrings, rings and necklaces create not only conversations but jealousies too. Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697.
KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’. KIDS See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari
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Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.
L LIVE JAZZ Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails. Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Their inviting, intimate venue is perfect for birthdays, anniversaries, wedding parties and other special events. Great bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music from 7.30 to 10.30pm every night (except Sundays and
Mondays). Free pick up service from hotels in the Ubud area. Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm). The little sister of Jazz Café, the music is a treat, with great playlists to soothe the soul and live gigs on Mondays with Bali’s own Blues Brothers and Thursday nights Acoustic Jam Session - from 8 to 11pm. Open all day, every day. Free Wifi 9am to 6pm.
M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.
N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way
that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.
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ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.
P PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father
palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace. PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PROPERTY Desa Kerasan Tel. 0361-9000566 www.desakerasan.com The opportunity of a lifetime should you wish to buy in Ubud is the upcoming Desa Kerasan. A six home community minutes away from the town centre has been created to offer elegant living with a focus on being green. Priced at under $300k. Exotiq Real Estate Sanur, Bali Office Jalan Danau Tamblingan 77, Sanur, Bali 80227, Indonesia Tel: 0361-287642 www.exotiqrealestate.com Exotiq Real Estate is South
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East Asia's largest brokerage and consultancy focusing on property located in highly attractive and desirable holiday destinations. Exotiq Real Estate offers prime property listings in nine different destinations from a network of 12 offices.Exotiq Real Estate Bali is the largest real estate specialist with offices in Lovina, Jimbaran, Sanur and Seminyak. Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. www. ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? The Ubud Property team is multinational and experienced, with the key staff holding degrees in law. The company works in association with the region’s leading Notary Office for optimal legal protection, and enjoys a reputation good enough to hold an exceptional portfolio of villas and land in and around Ubud.
PHOTOGRAPHY Infinity Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 www.liquid-art-gallery.com Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com
lime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen
they will be happy to add a shot of vodka if needed! Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-975489. www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating. Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975656 www.tepisawahvillas.com Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm.
Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com
R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-ginger-
and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna is done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes an excellent virgin wheat grass mojito - though we are sure
Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. The menu is innovative and superbly
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delicious. Bookings preferable. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Nicolas Lazzaroni heads up a team of 11 in his kitchen. Lunch menu has delicate salads, pasta dishes and light midday morsels. Dinner is a rather grander affair; Seared Scallops; Tiger Prawn Tempura; Red Pepper Crusted Chicken; Roast Pumpkin Rotolo and the best Filet Mignon this side of a number of bridges! Excellent wine list, wine cellar, a private dining roomand a lovely river view from the open-air terraces. Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Bunute Restaurant & Bar Jl.Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-972177. www.bunute.com Recently opened Bunute serves Balinese delights with international twists. Wine and live music make this a new venue to try. Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks - and we mean excellent tenderloin with a choice of 6 luscious sauces - frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables.
Both Leefe and Hoefgaarden (famous brands of Belgium beer) are now available for those mid-day heated moments. Lunch is salads, snacks and excellent Indonesian specialities. One of Ubud's favourite hangouts and a must if you want comfort food. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook. Situated on the main road just down from the Ubud market, it is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and has a reputation that extends beyond most café restaurants of its kind. Wednesday nights are Brazilian Jazz nights with music by Murni and Riwin as well as tapas and cocktails. It also offers the Luna Lounge with newspapers, CNN, movies and free Wifi, as well as its famed Honeymoon Bakery, established in 1991, using time-honoured methods
and the finest ingredients to satisfy travellers from all corners of the globe. Sunday Brunches are a must. CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H.15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley. Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. The inviting ambience of a spacious garden entices you in; the food and drinks convince you to return again. Start at the bar for a cocktail, then choose the thatched dining room, the outdoor modern garden back-dropped by an impressive Balinese gate, or chill on the cushions in the private pavilion. The menu has tantalising surprises in store, combining grill classics with an imaginative menu of salads, pastas, Asian curries, stir-fries and downhome desserts. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-978631. www.coffeecopper.com
A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. d'Bali Bistro Bintang, Jl. Sanggingan. Tel. 0361-975527 Indo-Asian cuisine with crispy duck and ribs at the fore. This sports cafe cum bistro also offers WiFi, and a big screen TV. If you are into fried ice cream look no further! Cherry Blossom Bintang, Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975527 This first floor restaurant offers classic dim sum, hangover perfect noodles, live sea food and lipsmacking crispy pork, organic and vegetarian dishes are also available. Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan. Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night. GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. The hand-crafted menu is
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based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glassaccented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate bookings for GLOW are essential! Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng. Tel: 0361 8410505 www. hansnelrestaurantcom Famous Dutch Painter Han Snel's gallery located just minutes from the palace. During his time as a renowned artist, Han built Siti Bungalows and one of the first restaurant and bars in Ubud, recently re-opened and now serving excellent international cuisine by an eccentric, well-experienced 5-star hotel Chef, Erick Kurniawan. Expect a large selection of cold drinks, wireless internet and very friendly staff. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 10pm. Crazy Drink Promotions such as DDD – David's Double Dice – get a discount and daily specials are low as Rp20,000 per meal...all to be enjoyed in the true Balinese spirit of tranquil gardens in a peaceful
sanctuary. Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72. Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal.
Indochine Jl. Penenstanan, Sayan. Tel. 0361-972616 www.themansion.com Map Ref. K1 Indochine offers and elegant and intimate atmosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel and Spa. Serving Vietnamese and French cuisine with amodern twist on
light and spicy flavours from Vietnam, Indochine proves once again that is os possible to have world class fine dining in the heart of a rural paradise. The wine list is well chosen and matched exquisitely to the cuisine.
With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Salsa nights on Mondays.
Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the centre
Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M.12 Cool jazz at arguably Ubud's hottest nightspot. The first live jazz venue of the island, with a lively and popular restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and a variety of salads, healthy fare, excellent kebabs and fresh juices. Choose from airconditioned bliss inside or traditional pavilion seating in the garden. Live music nightly except Mondays.
of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. On a clear day, you can see mighty Gunung Agung, in the east, and on a full-moon, there is a spectacular view from the terrace. The restaurant runs a free shuttle service between Indus, Casa Luna and the Honeymoon Guesthouses.
Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B, Padang Tegal. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm. Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www.armaresort.com
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This pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, (and now directly across the street from the Waterbom Park in Kuta) any time of the week, Kafe Batan Waru has something for you. Rated Bali’s “Best Indonesian restaurant”, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Known foremost for offering Bali’s most interesting and delicious selection of Indonesian food, Batan Waru also caters to other tastes. Rice, pasta and bread lovers will find lots to eat for lunch and dinner. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan. Tel 0361-973134.
A secret success story, Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere with a good view. Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 The Uma cuisine team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime. Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan.Telp: 0361-975742, 976659 www. kokokan.com Elegant dining in the oldworld atmosphere of Kokokan Club's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil Kokokan Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens.
Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential. Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake (in face it bakes 15 types of bread daily). It also boasts a fabulous upstairs eatery which is very well regarded. Open daily from 8am–10pm. Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Related to the excellent Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Rd, at Laka Leke sit amongst lily ponds in pavilions and listen to the sound of frogs, and the food is as good as at Cafe Wayan. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan - Padang, Tegal Ubud (Bali Spirit Yoga Barn’s
Garden). Tel: 0361-970992. www.balispirit.com Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also! Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday, 8-11pm. Free Wi-fi 9am-6pm.
Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. The large,
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double-ceilinged, three-sided dining room opens onto a garden courtyard, with only eight well-spaced tables inside and a couple more in the garden. Pure classic white and garden green predominate. The food is exquisite Japanese fare, beautifully prepared with delicious variety. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of everchanging culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential. Murni’s Warung Campuhan.
Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years. Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a
superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Genial owner Brian is usualy on hand in a corner seat somewhere, ready to welcome you into a world of enjoyment that may start over a quiet beer and extend late into the night. Seating here is a free-for-all...just sit down and take your chances. Naughty Nuri’s (named after Brian’s charming wife Nuri) is also something of a legend
with Japanese and Chinese tourists, not to mention hordes from Jakarta who trek here on a regular basis, making sure this is one of the busiest and most popular restaurants in Bali, let alone Ubud. In fact sometimes it’s impossible to get a seat. So go early and enjoy the food, ambience and ribaldry of what has become a legendary roadside establishment. Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Opened back
in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities, there to sample the local, Asian fusion and Western food from an eclectic menu that boasts a few special treats – Nomadstyle Martabak, Fresh Prawn Lakso and a selection of Balinese tapas. Open from 9am every day, Nomad Restaurant uses no MSG or other food additives, and the
staff is delightful. Nuri’s Nacho Mamas Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977547. Just as it sounds...a part of Tijuana in Ubud with the added value of Nuri’s ribs if Nuri’s is crowded! Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com A four-course fine dining experience like no other. Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine in one of Bali's most original and beautiful locations. Boasting rights and getting to tick off one of those 100-things-to-do boxes is definitely part of the evening. Bookings are a must. Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer.
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Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery!
Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.com Map ref: U.8 Pundi-Pundi Grill & Asian restaurant sits right in the heart of Ubud serving the likes of Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus. Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings. Ryoshi Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating. Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Neil Harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha. This vegan eatery, set in an ecological master–build bamboo pavilion, awakens your taste buds with healthful organic ingredients. If you thought vegan food was less than appetising, it's time you tasted again.
Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/ siam-sally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Popular among tourists and locals alike, Siam Sally delivers fresh, homestyle Thai food in a spectacular setting. You can start your journey on the comfy sofas downstairs with an innovative cocktail menu and some shared food. Coowner/chef Karen Waddell starts you off with Roasted green chili “salsa” with rice cracker, Siam Palace Lom dip, or the hawker stall favorite, Hoy Tod, a crisp mussel fritter served with a housemade fiery Sriracha chili sauce. Curries are cooked up with house-ground spice pastes and fresh coconut milk, and the market style noodle dishes are fabulous, ditto the wok-seared creations and Fried Chicken and Som Tam papaya salad, a recipe inspired by a favourite food stall in Bangkok’s Jatujak market. Non Thai food and Vegan also available. Open seven days a week. Early dining birds (seated by 7pm) get a 20 percent discount when booking Table Five (food only).
Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. And it’s true, Terazo delivers ultra-fresh pan-Asian and international cuisine in stylish surroundings. Located in Ubud on quiet Suweta Street, just a stone’s throw from the centre of town, Terazo restaurant and bar is designed in a colonial modern style by international design firm Hananto Lloyd. It features banquette dining, a stylish lounge and mahogany bar downstairs. Casual glam awaits you in the dining room upstairs. Open daily from 10am to midnight, Terazo offers exquisite food and wine from across the globe. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering. The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse setting, to be followed by a chill–out session with cocktails upstairs in the Party Lounge. Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama. Tel: 8686705
Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others. Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan. Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor! West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978363. In Ubud’s flourishing west end (Mozaic, Nuri’s, Minami et al) is the West End Café. The cool and colourful décor is a welcoming respite to guests in need of food, refreshment and a place to relax.
S SPAS Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236. The Day Spa Specialists. Eve – Body Treatment Centre offers professional service at affordable prices. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Welcome to Ubud's newest and most thorough healing centre. Riverside treatments rooms transport you into another world. Two healing pools – Watsu and Water
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Dancing – realign your vibration, and Bali's top healing hands cleanse, support and reawaken your very soul. Bookings essential. KUSH Jl Hanoman. Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone! Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended
products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime... Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933.
include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese
Tel: 0361 975 615 www.ubudskinorganic.com Petite, authentic skin spa on Goutama, Ubud's upand-coming 'chic street'. Natural nail polish, fresh blended oils, facials using oxygen products, jamu drinks, all-natural scrubs, aloe vera extracts. Expert waxing, only certified therapists, sterilized equipment, and pure ingredients ... genuine quality, traditionally inspired. Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Affordable treatments in the gardens of The Secret Garden. Birds sing, flowers scent the air and the masssages just flow... Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com Look out over Mumbul river and treat yourself to a number of beauty and semi-medical treatments, colonics, fasting programmes and retreats. Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan. Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com
www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments
massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men. Skin Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24.
Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan. Telp: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive
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products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.
T TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Many with story-telling themes such as the Western tapestries, but woven instead of knotted or sewn. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.
U UDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.
V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world.
W WALKING Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing.
WEDDINGS Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com Featured in international television travel programmes, getting married atop an elephant - with your entourage hanging out in a traditional Javanese pavilion surrounded by 30ft commemorative wedding flags - is one of those events that will make a lifetime dream come true, you will even have the photos and videos to prove it! (In reality wedding vows take place on the ground). Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment.
Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. www.uma.como.bz Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go. Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka. com
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WILDLIFE Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com Part of the respected Bali Adventure Tours company, the Elephant Safari Park at Taro is a world class retreat for pachyderms and their admirers. This is an extremely well put together attraction guaranteed to be a hit with all the family. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco-landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Facilities include a full Reception and Information Centre, a comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. Elephants can be seen bathing in the park lake,
in between riding, painting or other activities. Handfeed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park’s historical and graphic displays. It’s all about the elephants, however – get up close and personal with these incredible animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. You can also stay in one of 25 luxury lodges set within the grounds, or simply visit for the day.
www.studioperak.com Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com
Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org
WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi Cultural Workshop Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742. www.armamuseum.com Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman. Tel: 0361-7801879.
Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan. Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow.com The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com Map Ref: O.10
Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali. Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz
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Performance Schedules
SUNDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance
Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7
MONDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)
Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo
7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00
I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –
TUESDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance
Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7
WEDNESDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana
Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30
I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7
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Performance Schedules
THURSDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30
I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10
FRIDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women's Gamelan
Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30
I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7
SATURDAYS
VENUE
PM
MAP REF.
Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00
I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10
EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.
advertisers' directory
HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361 - 971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10 Sayan Aesthetic Institute Tel: 0361- 972648 www. aestheticbali.com P. 73 Bud Map D.3 HOTEL Alila Ubud Tel: 0361- 975963 www.alilahotels.com P. 5 Bud Map A.2
P. 7
Bud Map A.3
Desa Kerasan Tel: 0361- 9000566 www.desakerasan.com P. 7 Bud Map K.12 Komaneka Tel: 0361- 976090 www.komaneka.com P. 2 Bud Map L.4/P.7 Maya Ubud Tel: 0361- 977888 www.mayaubud.com P. 11 Bud Map L.18
Arma Resort Tel: 0361- 976659 www.armaresort.com P. 11 Bud Map W.10 Bali Wood Resort Tel: 0361- 972640 www.baliwoodresort.com P. 73 Bud Map D.3
Puri Tupai Tel: 0361- 981655 www.puri-tupai.com P. 9 Bud Map Z.9
Bebek Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 6 Bud Map E.6
Ubud Hanging Gardens Tel: 0361- 982700 www.ubudhanginggardens. com P. 1 Bud Map A.2
Bidadari Private Villas Tel: 0361- 9000401 www.bidadarivillasubudbali. com P. 13 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361- 978888 www.como.bz
The Mansion Tel: 0361- 972616 www.themansionbali.com P. 73 Bud Map A.2
Uma Ubud Tel: 0361- 972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz P. 9 Bud Map A.3 GALLERY Bali Wood Gallery Tel: 0361- 972640
www.baliwoodresort.com P. 73 Bud Map D.3 MISC Ubud Writes Festival Tel: 0361- 7808932 www.ubudwritesfestival. com IBC FNPF www.northernmgic. com/fnpf P. 36 RESTAURANT Ary’s Warung Tel: 0361- 975053 www.decko.com P. 3 Bud Map I.7 Bebek Tepi Sawah Rest Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 6 Bud Map E.6 Bridges Bali Tel: 0361- 970095 www.bridgesbali.com P. 15 Bud Map H.2 Cherry Blossom Tel: 0361- 975527 P. 73 Ibu Rai Restaurant Tel: 0361- 973472 www.iburai.com P. 10 Bud Map K.8
Indochine Tel: 0361- 972616 www.themansionbali.com P. 73 Bud Map D.3 Jazz Cafe Tel: 0361- 976594 www.jazzcafebali.com P. 15 Bud Map L.12 Laughing Buddha Bar Tel: 0361- 970928 info@laughingbuddhabar. net P. 15 Bud Map P.6 Mozaic Tel: 0361- 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com P. 13 Bud Map B.3 SHOP Biasa Fashion Tel: 0361- 8878002 www.biasabali.com BC Bud Map A.3 Hatten Wines Tel: 0361- 767422 www.hattenwines.com P. 6 Periplus www.periplus.co.id P. 36 Bud Map C.3 Threads Of Life Tel: 0361- 972187 www.threadsoflife.com P. 36 Bud Map H.7
distribution list
NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud
Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Esthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant
Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant JFF Jewelry Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Nacho Mamas Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally Skin Organic Sobek Adventure Rafting Tama Gallery Taman Hati Tegal Sari
Terazo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery
THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.
to Como Shambhala, Alila & Komaneka
THE CHEDI CLUB 1km
Money changer
Sports field
Misc.
TEGALALANG 10km TARO 16km KINTAMANI 22km
NG
TA WE
To Elephant Safari Park
UNG
JL. JE
ROG AND
JL. TIR TA TA WAR
JL. SU
6:0
KEY F
Bali Spirit Tegun The Kafe
UKM A (T
Padang Tegal Dirty Duck
I JL. GUNUNG SAR
MAYA UBUD
Peliatan RONG G
A
Entrance fee: Adults Rp. 15,000 Children Rp. 7,500
JL. SE
Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper
E
Laka Leke
S
Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus
Nyuh Kuning
Bamboo Foundation
Siam Sally
Cafe arma
JL.
W
W
Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak
APENGOSEKA RAY N
V
Agung Rai Gallery
Pengosekan
N
X
Pura Gunung Sari
NATURA RESORT
JL. C OK G D
Tebesaya
S
U
Andong
I (JL . PEL IATA N)
Bumbu Bali II sisi + nanan KOMANEKA Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Cinta UBUD INN Verona
(MON
RA W ANA
Coffee & Silver Tanah Merah
Pura Dalem Agung Temple
JL. W ANA
Q
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THE VICEROY BALI Cascades
E RA
Milano Bodyworks Lamak
SAY A)
AD RO
Alamkara UBUD VILLAGE HOTEL Cafe Wayan Greenhouse Wah Tama Gallery
ENTRANCE
R
Spa/Salon
EBE
T
Pura Prajapati Cemetary
P
Post office
JL.
RES
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Information
JL. S
Y FO
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MONKE
ENTRANCE
Shop
Bar LuGnOOTAMA a
KOMANEKA BISMA
M N
Bar/Nightclub
Police station
Boll Bat ero Res Alaman Waru to kara
FNPF
L
AJE
Lotus
JL. K
Ubud Klod
K
Place of interest
Deer pen
Taman Klod To Desa White Kerasan Box Rendezvous 018: Gusti Lempad’s 00 Seniwati Gallery Super of Art by Women Adi’s Art Market Galaxyan Atelier Kupu Kupu Studio & Foundation Gallery Gallery Infinity Market Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Gallery Property Highway Place Exotiq Sagu Cafe Des Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Galaxyan Tidur JL. COK PUTRA S. Atelier Pura Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe SITA Sukma Sk in Organic Tutmak Bali Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Anjaly Cat Juice Bar Bali Casa Luna Ary’s Warung
ORES
WAKA NAMYA
Dance theatre
1.5km
Rio JF-F Helmi Terazo Bumbu Bali I Ibu Oka
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Blanco Renaissance Museum
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Ubud Kaja UBUD SARI Threads of Life Han Puri Lukisan Snel JL. RAY Murni’s AU Warung BUD
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Rudana Museum Mas Tony Raka Gallery
Temple
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Tanah Gajah
Monkey forest
Automatic teller
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Payangan Tegalalang Kusia Gallery West End Cafe UMA UBUD THE VICEROY BALI Cascades Neka Museum INDUS Mozaic Warung Pulau Kelapa Bali Adventure Rafting PITA MAHA P Gaya Gallery Paul Roepriplus p The Shop UBUD FOUR SEASONS THE MANSION BEBEK TEPI SAWAH Sayan Aesthetic RESTAURANT & VILLAS VILLA KIRANA
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KUPU KUPU BARONG AMANDARI Minami Biasa Naughty Nuri’s
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Agung Rai Museum of Art ARMA RESORT Flava Lounge
Hanna Art Space Gajah Gallery
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traditions
Gamelan orchestra Mekar Bhuana channels Bali's rich musical past. By Drew Corridore.
Some things change, some things stay the same. Some things – once bursting with life – fade away into arcane obscurity; a distant cultural memory in a society stumbling into a future uncertain.
traditions
A blast from the past.
Traditional Balinese court gamelan music might have fallen into the latter category were it not for the efforts of a young couple who are determined to retrieve, reinvigorate and conserve Bali’s traditional musical and dance cultures. New Zealander, Vaughan Hatch, and his Balinese wife, Putu Evie, founded Mekar Bhuana as a lifeboat for these traditions that have all but sunk under the stormy seas of relentless refashioning. “Mekar Bhuana means to blossom around the world,” says Evie. “One of our aims is to take this music all around the world . . . to make it blossom again . . . so people will know it - not just Balinese people but people everywhere.” The group is the brainchild of Vaughan who developed an interest in Indonesian musical culture while studying Asian archaeology at university. He saw a flyer on a noticeboard asking people to join a gamelan group that the university was forming, having brought a gamelan set over from Java. “The first time I sat down at the gong I was just in love with the sonority of it,” he says. “From the very beginning I was enthusiastic about trying to understand what was going on (in the music) . . . all the layers and so forth . . . and it fitted in with my earlier training in classical piano, and then the bass and then experimental music.” Vaughan says the university in Otago possessed some recordings of Balinese court gamelan music and also some books by musicologists who had written about it, notably Colin McPhee. “So I read his books and his stories about the lifestyle, the musicians – the whole thing seemed like a dream . . . it really inspired
me,” Vaughan says. “So I can honestly say Colin McPhee’s books and his recordings - and also the recordings of Wayan Lottering who was a composer in Kuta in the 1920s - made me want to come here.” In the latter 1990s Vaughan applied for, and got, a scholarship to study Balinese gamelan – which included a monthly stipend of Rp.175,000 and a yearly clothing allowance of Rp.25,000. But he struggled with the underresourced college in Denpasar and, in consultation with his teachers, decided to study privately. “So I ended up spending all my savings,” Vaughan says. “I learned for two hours in the morning, two hours in the evening and practiced for two hours at night . . . so I was sitting down for six hours a day and not drinking enough water – I began to get kidney stones.” The ailment sent him back to New Zealand after six months. But Vaughan had such a hankering for the lifestyle he’d developed on Bali he pulled out all the stops in putting together the resources to get back. One of his professors handed him an opportunity by way of asking him to put together a group of Balinese musicians to perform in New Zealand. “I sort of managed this group of unusual music players and puppeteers touring around New Zealand . . . and from there I got the idea to form Mekar Bhuana,” Vaughan says. Back on Bali he bought an old gamelan set and began to put together a group to play it. He also befriended two of the island’s senior ethnomusicologists – leading experts on Balinese musical styles - Bob Brown and Andy Toth (sadly, both now deceased). Evie took over as the group’s
director and manager in 2004, and she is also the lead dancer. “My aunty had a dance school in our village so I grew up being a dancer – I started dancing when I was three and performing when I was four,” Evie says. “I kept on studying and eventually became part of the second generation of Tjondong dancers. “Tjondong is a very dynamic dance – it’s the story about a courtier who is very close with a prince – it’s really pretty and the music is also really good.” In recent years the couple has written many grant applications and funding requests to maintain and grow the group – to which they refer as a “conservatory of music and dance”. They perform with 100-year-old instruments and in traditional costumes that reflect the period particular to the music being played. “We want Balinese musicians and dancers to be able to make a living from performing these classical music pieces and dances because this is one of the best ways to ensure that they are preserved,” Vaughan says. On any given day there will be up to 28 musicians and 10 dancers in a Mekar Bhuana performance. And last year they performed a piece of music – recorded in the late 1920s that Vaughan has reconstructed – at the Asian Games. “Gamelan changed my life,” Vaughan says. “Not the modern gamelan but the archaic styles which I’ve been researching for so many years now . . . the people I’ve met and who have taught me so much . . . and meeting Evie . . . “It’s a great way to live.” balimusicanddance.com mekarbhuana.com
brushstrokes
Neal Adams sets out to discover the man whose brushes with an ethereal dimension have led him to create a “visual diary” of extraordinary artworks.
Entering Sika Gallery I get the impression this is not just another art space offering works on a purely commercial level - there seems to be a non-tangible quality, a deeper feeling, making me want to find the man behind the paintings that confront me. Looking around I notice that I am alone, but I’ve a feeling that I have not truly been alone since I entered the space. I look around and cough loudly even whistle a bit . . . nothing. I call out “hello” as I am walking around. Turning a corner I almost bump into Wayan Sika, who is standing there wearing a big smile. Feeling a little guilty about disturbing the peace I introduce myself. He gives me a warm handshake. I ask him about the work behind me at the back of the gallery. He looks at me with pause, as if listening to unheard voices, then opens up. "This is my painting,” he says. “I was very sick, and have been in a coma three times. I was visited by a spirit (who told me I needed to) follow a more spiritual path with my life . . . which I agreed to do, but did not. “One day I was standing out the front of my gallery on the steps and a strong energy - like a wind - hit me from behind, pushing me down to the road and breaking my leg." The message came again in a dream: to follow a more spiritual path - this time he was told to make a large offering to the Hindu gods. Pak Sika’s faith was a bit wobbly, but strong enough. His financial situation, however, was somewhat precarious . . . . . . more sickness; and again and again, the message was reinforced in dreams and visitations, until in 2009 Pak Sika collapsed once more after an evening of putting brush to canvas. He was rushed to hospital and spent the next nine days in a coma. Tests were done but nothing could
Wayan Sika received mantras from the spirit world, which he incorporates in his work.
brushstrokes
be found to explain the illness. Many friends went to visit him in hospital after he regained consciousness. He went home but could not eat or sleep. He ended up traipsing around his gallery, losing, he says, his sense of reality and making a decision that it was time to die. He called his family members close to say goodbye. Then, according to Pak Sika, another vision came and a spirit asked him why he had decided to give up on life. He “spoke” to the entity, which told him he had been naughty for not following the advice given him years before. The entity revealed to the sickly painter that words were all well and good but that real commitment comes from the heart. Pak Sika says he was also shown what would become of his soul if he did decide to pull the pin at that time . . . he saw himself crucified on a lonely cliff face. "I cancelled my decision to die,” he says. “Okay, I promise to do what you ask, I said, ”but I need help with the practicalities.” The entity which, to Pak Sika, had taken on a life-sized, translucent appearance, told him the money would come . . . . . . so he started preparing the offerings needed, and indeed, money did come from all around – from friends as far away as America and Europe. Ceremony done, he has given away all his possessions and is now working on a visual “diary” through his beautiful golden paintings, which must be seen - a documentation of a life less ordinary. Don’t bother asking to buy one though. Balinese live with what they call sekala dan niskala roughly translated as the seen world and the unseen world. It seems that Pak Sika has been chosen to keep a foot firmly placed in both. After this inspiring and incredible meeting with Wayan Sika, I am left with a greater respect for the hidden messages artists often put in their work - which, strange to say, we do not see but must feel. Neal Adams is a painter and avid student of art history who has immersed himself in theory and technique and worked in the art world since he was in his mid-teens. Now in his early 40s, Neal lives and paints in Ubud. His work can be viewed at Orgone Gallery in Sanggingan.
What do you see?
feature
Seeing is believing.
. . . John Fawcett and his dedicated team have made them see again, for more than 20 years – but there's so much more to do, writes Andrew Hall.
When you consider the Indonesian military apparatus, one of the last things, perhaps, that would occur to you is that the top brass are committed to playing an integral role in saving and restoring sight to tens of thousands of Indonesian people. It’s true, friends, the army, air force and navy provide critical logistical support to the foundation – set up by Australian, John Fawcett – that screens huge numbers of visually challenged people throughout the archipelago and provides corrective measures (from supplying glasses to performing cataract surgery) free of charge. John says: “There’s a vicious cycle between poverty and blindness . . . 90 per cent of (blind) people in developing countries are unable to work and need two people to care for them. “The result of this is three people who are not productive and this amounts to a staggering $168 billion of lost income in the world in one year.” Those are some of the statistics that underpin the actions of The John
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Incomnig revelations. Incoming revelations.
Fawcett Foundation and its action arm, Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia based in Sanur, Bali. Under their aegis some 32,000 cataract operations have been performed since the foundation built and equipped a mobile clinic and hit the road in 1991. John’s story has been told before but is worth revisiting because it is both interesting and inspiring: Born in Perth, Western Australia, John did a lot of his growing up in that state’s north-west because his police-inspector-father was posted there. His friends, in the main, were Aboriginal people – who, incidentally, suffer a disproportionate rate of blindness compared to the non-Aboriginal community. John spent his high school years (90 per cent of the time playing sport, he says) in Perth (same school as me as it happens) and went on to become a teacher. In 1969 John took a nasty spill – cracking two vertebrae of his spine. He lived in considerable pain and began, with his family, to come to Bali on holidays during the 1970s – where he met and befriended the then governor, Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra. “We absolutely loved it,” he says. In 1981 doctors decided to perform a series of epidural (spinal block) treatments to ease John’s chronic lumbar distress . . . “They only did one and it was wrongly located, and the full injection went into the blood supply and straight through my central nervous system and shut the whole bloody thing down . . . wiped out the hypothalamus for a protracted length of time – about two years or more,” he says. John explains the hypothalamus as “the conductor of (the brain’s) orchestra”. “I lost my memory . . . “. . . fortunately I got through it, although I wasn’t expected to do so.” During a stay in hospital that
lasted two years and 10 months Ida Bagus Mantra sent a picture of Tanah Lot “taken from a particular angle” to John’s family and instructed them that it was to be placed on the right-hand-side of his bed. He said it would make John better. “When that was all over and they let me out, I said I know where I’m going – I’m going to Bali,” John says. He remains ambiguous, however, about the healing powers of Ida Bagus’s gift. He did indeed move, and built the house in Sanur where he lives today – and from where the foundation is run. “(At that time – mid 1980s) I realized I was a has-been as far as my career in education was concerned . . . so the best thing I could do was to see what else could be done – to break a bit of new ground,” John says. “I had a philosophy that life is divided into a series of corridors. “Sometimes corridors close ... and at the end of a closed corridor you’ll find yourself standing before a door. “You can stand there studying the door, you can look back down the corridor and live in the past ... but a guru I met on a trip to India told me, ‘you have to have the guts to open the door and go through it’. “On the other side of the door you’ll find a far more interesting corridor ... far more interesting than anything you’ve ever done before.” John began to scour Bali for a project that might assist people as much as he had been assisted during his own protracted recovery process. He noticed an extraordinary number of children lived with cleft lips and palates . . . “ . . . and we were just staggered by the amount of (cataract) blindness there was.” John had good contacts in the Australian medical community and started to corral them. He also did several trips to India to see how the
Indians dealt with similar health issues. The idea of mobile clinics was born and John had established a team of health consultants who were willing to put their expertise to work on the range of challenges that confronted the Balinese population. But where was the money to come from? Again John saw doors and started knocking on them. Behind some of the doors were people who were focused on why someone could not do something: Bali’s roads were bad; the Indonesian government wouldn’t let doctors in; you can’t do microsurgery in a bus . . . But by that time (late 1980s) John’s team had completed a successful cleft lip programme. He persisted. And by 1991 a large Rotary group in Western Australia – working in concert with Rotary groups on Bali – raised enough money to buy the first mobile clinic which was fitted out in WA and flown to Bali by the Australian air force. Rotarians supported the project for around five years. The cataract programme was off and running; local staff were trained by John’s team of experts, including Balinese ophthalmologist Wayan Gede Dharyata – who was purloined from his work on another island. The clinic began to screen hundreds of poor people a day. And to perform cataract surgery on all who needed it. Apparently you could do microsurgery in a bus. The roads weren’t that bad. And the Indonesian government was keen to provide political support for the project. But money was still an issue. “You can’t run this thing on less than a million and a half dollars a year,” John says. The John Fawcett Foundation was created in Australia where donations were tax deductible. Private donations were sought in other
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Anguish.
countries that provided similar tax benefits. Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia is the Indonesian action arm of the Foundation which John hopes will become autonomous in the foreseeable future – run entirely by Indonesians. John’s persistence had paid off and thousands of economically poor Balinese benefitted from having their sight restored. As the project grew and more buses were added to the fleet, the Indonesian army became involved in providing logistic support in outlying areas – tents and chairs and food, amongst other things, which encouraged people to come to be screened. Then Chief Air Marshall Imam Sufaat of the Indonesian air force visited the project and offered his assistance to fly the clinic buses to Java and other islands to the east of Bali. More recently the navy has offered valuable help. But despite the foundation's efforts John warns that Indonesia by 2020 will suffer similar levels of cataract blindness to those found in some sub-Saharan African countries . . . if similar government-financed initiatives are not undertaken. Such is the extent of the problem in a population of some 250 million. The project has also met challenges from professional ophthalmologist groups in-country in recent years, who have called into question the free treatment of desperately poor people. But such threats and entreaties to higher powers have come to nothing . . . the community benefits speak for themselves. “There’s a lot of people who have had a new start in life,” John says. “There is nothing else medically that you can do for somebody that takes 20 minutes . . . that changes their life forever . . . that’s quick and painless . . . nothing. Not a single other medical procedure. “With our small-incision-with-implant technique we can restore sight to people that is equivalent to a normally sighted person’s vision at 15-years-old.” www.balieye.org
exhibits
Three groups of artists get together to investigate the nature of identity. Bali has always been well known for its artists and artworks – but have they become an anachronism in the wider Indonesian art space? Art curator I Wayan Seriyoga Parta says: “Balinese art was initially a blend of both a touch of modernism as well as colonialism and has since become the Balinese cultural identity. “During its evolution it seemed to have always stayed in its own direction . . . you can see how its distinctive identity is always kept close. “This kind of commitment, though, creates a dilemma. First, it distinguishes Balinese art from any others - being the only one with clear and traceable development. On the other hand, it puts Balinese art exclusively in one specific area which results in being excluded from Indonesian flow of arts.” To try to interrogate the issues facing the Balinese art space Ubud’s Tanah Tho Gallery is hosting an exhibition from October 8 to November 7, which focuses on the works of three groups of artists tackling the conundrum of identity in their own, unique ways. The groups: Galang Kangin (Eastern Light), Hitam Putih (Black and White), and 10 Fine Art have brainstormed their way to what might be a more contemporary confluence rather than a cultural conformity. “Creating an original identity has always been the focus of development for most international contemporary artists,
especially the non-western,” Wyn. Parta says. “Artists somehow seek to create an identity that represents the post westerncolonialism era (and) this includes the feminist identity many female artists have been striving for . . . to mark their existence in the world of art.” Rodin’s statue of The Thinker has been adopted as an internationally recognized icon by the 10 Fine Art group as a way of presenting those who view their art with the identity struggle they face as artists in a post-modernist world. “Through various attributes visualising themes in Thinker pose, they show the irony and instability of an identity in the constellation of global culture nowadays,” Wyn. Parta says. “For them, identity is not something to be solidly defined. “For example, I Wayan Paramartha exposes The Thinker smeared in silhouette - paint drops as well as white texture - while he poses half in Balinese dance costume with accessories . . . yet wearing jeans and shoes.” Hitam Putih uses a different expressive methodology the - not holding onto one theme or concept, they chose to reveal each member’s search for identity by showcasing individual themes. Their pieces present a number of tendencies - the search for identity and the sense of belonging in Balinese culture. “This interrogation is represented in Alit Suaja’s piece titled Target #2 -
picturing a blue-skined child in Balinese traditional outfit with red kamen cloth and udeng songket (Balinese head accessories), yet wearing sporty shoes, targeting something with a toy pistol,” Wyn. Parta says. While these two groups represent identity in paintings, Galang Kangin chose to explore identity issues in three dimensional installations. They are centripetal as well as centrifugal reflections. Centripetal - headed towards the center - is this group’s evaluation of the stigma represented by a predominance of abstract paintings. In their centrifugal projecton, they look towards the social and cultural realitiy on the outside that covers creativity in works of art. “Galang Kangin reflects critically on their self-identity and the group stigma on their creativity in works of art that prioritises formality derived from modernism,” Wyn. Parta says. “As individuals, this exhibition’s artists attempted to resolve identity issues through individual art works where artistic motivation is based on egocentrism. “When they agreed to emabark on this project . . . the personal identity then shifted to representations of each group’s identity. In the context of this exhibition, each group fights for their own identity through their artworks.” tanahtho.com
food
Jump in.
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b u i l d i n g Sandy Elliott samples the elegant simplicity of Ubud's Bridges Restaraunt ...
For centuries artists and musicians have drawn their inspiration from the energy and natural beauty of Campuhan, where two rivers - the East and West Wos – meet. An excellent way to experience and absorb this much-talked-about energy and beauty is to wine and dine at Bridges Restaurant. Bridges is located on the side of a small gorge overlooking the water. Multi levels - with a wooden deck overhanging the river - boast unobstructed views of the Campuhan bridge and the lush, evergreen landscape. Architecturally elegant, an all-white décor, carved sandstone relief sculptures, large tiled terrazzo floors and dark timber features work in harmony with the pale coloured furniture and crisp white napery. The seven storeys include the Divine Wine Cellar and bar; a reception area; a coffee and tea parlor; a bistro terrace; the casual fine dining restaurant; a cocktail lounge; and the Sukawati private function room - in honor of the Ubud royal family who remain part-owners with French-Canadian entrepreneur Claude Chouinard. It’s an easy walk to Bridges from the centre of Ubud. An attractive range of menu options is offered at lunch. Meals are superbly presented and of the finest quality. At any time the bar is a relaxing place to be and has a
delightful array of finger foods and international wines. Cocktails on the deck at dusk allows you to experience the emerging night, exuding a relaxed, informal yet dignified ambience, in a light and airy setting where guests can enjoy a romantic meal. Like the musicians and artists who have been inspired by Ubud and its surrounds, so too has chef, Nicolas Lazzaroni, in stamping his own personality on a menu that features subtle combinations of flavours, and presents of the very best of local and imported ingredients . . . . . . French-inspired cuisine embellished with an original contemporary touch. The first dish enjoyed by our group was slipper lobster pan-fried in a citrus butter, placed on a bed of sweet lemon cured apple fennel and served with white wine infused cream leek. Yum! Bridges’ staff - dressed in traditional sarongs with white shirts or blouses – are all smiles and calmly efficient. Their knowledge of the food and wine lists is commendable. Often Stéphane, the restaurant’s charismatic and personable French manager, accompanies the waiters to the table wishing you “bon appetite”. Guests can feel welcomed and comfortable whether dressed casually, or in fancy threads fit for a fine dining experience. Bridges’ menu is diverse and offers choices to suit every diner’s definition
of what is delectable. It displays an impressive wine list - for the nonconnoisseur each meal description comes with suggestions for wine pairing. Elegant simplicity is the key to this cutting edge restaurant. My preference for the perfect evening would begin with a cocktail: a classic mojito - a zesty and refreshing fusion of rum and mint, muddled and carefully balanced with sugar and wine. I would indulge myself with an appetizer of goat cheese brulée: a roasted beetroot, filled with thymeinfused goat cheese cream and served with prosciutto and roasted garlic. The flavour is divine. For main course the crispy skinned Atlantic seared salmon, accompanied by prosciutto macadamia-crusted onion confit, creamy mustard sauce; vegetable julienne parcels; and served with a side of potato purée is fantastic. I would select a crisp sauvignon blanc or perhaps a merlot, or ask for a pairing. It’s impossible to choose one of the decadent desserts so a “degustation” - a tasting selection - is a good idea. To bring closure to my evening of extravagance I would request a cheese platter of the finest French cheeses imported from the best cheese makers in France - with a delicate, sweettasting dessert wine.
FICTION
A work in progress, by Diana Darling.
Transit Fields: a novel in progress Chapter 10: Part 2 1926 Denpasar and beyond The sun was high by the time Edmund and Allison finally set out to find Kaspar Schell, and for the first time since they’d arrived in Bali they were able to see something of the countryside beyond their car. They drove through many small villages and Allison began to notice a pattern in the landscape. There would be broad stretches of rice fields, then in the distance a dark cluster of trees, crowned by brooding banyan trees and spangled by the pinwheel tops of coconut palms. As they drew near, Allison could begin to make out the other trees enclosing the hamlet. There would be bamboo groves with fresh shoots curling above them like a flock of slender feathery umbrella handles in conversation. There would be clumps of banana trees with juicy trunks and huge leaves in all stages of maturity — furled young leaves poking upward; broad finely ribbed green paddles; tattered papery brown banners. As they entered the cool shade of a village, the road would become a corridor of courtyard walls of fine mud-brick. Rows of tall coconut palms lined the village road like the columns of an arcade, filtering a cathedral light over the hamlet. Poking up above the walls were thatched roofs, flowering trees, and dark pagodas. As they passed through, Allison saw people with smooth skins the color of shade disappearing through tall gateways in the walls. “Look, honey, aren’t they lovely?” said Allison. “Oh, what’s in all those baskets?” “Fighting cocks, ma’am,” said the driver. “Very expensive.” At the heart of the village, a great banyan tree yawned over everything, as chilly and dark as a cave. “Aren’t they wonderful, Ed? Those big trees? Every village seems to have them.” “Those are b’ringen trees, ma’am,” the driver said. “Very sacred.” Between the villages, the car rumbled along at 35mph heading east through an orderly ocean of rice terraces, ascending on the left side of the road to the violet haze of the mountains and descending on the right to the blue sparkle of the Indian Ocean. The breeze was cool and bright, and it seemed to Allison that the countryside was humming with well-being. Edmund smiled and patted her hand. “We must still be on the itinerary,” he said. “This is the usual route to Karangasem,” said the driver.
In the early afternoon they came upon a grassy coconut grove by a deep curve in the road. A few doe-eyed cows were tethered in the shade; beyond was a wall of forest. “What a pretty spot,” said Allison. “Let’s stop here and have lunch, don’t you think?.” The driver seemed oddly not to hear. Edmund said, “Driver, there. Stop the car.” The car slowed but did not stop. Allison was suddenly reminded of being becalmed in friend’s sailboat, drifting on the tide toward a shoal of black rocks. Edmund pounded the back of the front seat. “I said stop the damned car, if you please.” “Where, sir?” “Here, for crying out loud. Oh God.” The driver pulled over to the opposite side of the road, and turned to them in the back seat. “Sir, maybe we can find another place?” “No, we can’t.” Allison said, “Driver, is there something wrong with stopping here?” “Ma’am, it’s a graveyard.” Edmund said, “Is it private property?” “I’m sorry?” “Private property: does it belong to somebody?” The driver blinked. “It belongs to that village up ahead.” “Then it’s public property,” said Edmund. “Let’s get out the picnic basket, please.” With arthritic slowness, the driver set the hand brake, turned off the ignition, and got out of the car. Edmund looked at Allison and jerked his head. They too got out of the car. The driver opened the trunk, and handed the picnic basket to Allison. It was hot and smelly. With a passive face, the driver crossed the road and unrolled some woven mats for them on the grass. Then he returned to the car and made a show of looking at the view in the opposite direction. “I don’t know, Ed. Maybe we shouldn’t be here after all.” “Believe me, Ally, the man is obviously mistaken about this being a graveyard. It’s a cow patch, and that’s that. Now, what have we got for lunch?” The guest house had packed them half-a-dozen bread rolls stuffed with cheese and potted meat. There were also boiled eggs, five bananas and some other fruit whose names they did not know, and a thermos of tea thickened with sweet condensed milk. “You can have the fruit, Ally. You don’t want that sandwich, do you?” They ate without conversation. Allison thought of offering
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the driver some of their fruit. In her imagination, he waggled his palms at them and said, “No, no, I had lunch this morning. Please, go ahead.” In her imagination, she saw him looking at their fruit and recoiling, seeing it covered with graveyard electricity. Allison looked at the banana skin in her hand. It was soft and velvety and plain. She tossed it into the grass, and as it landed, she thought she heard a musical chord spring from the ground. “What’s so funny?” Edmund was lying back on one elbow, sucking his teeth. “Nothing. I was just thinking that we’re finally in Bali.” “Right. Well, we’d better get going. It’s after two.” They stood and stretched. Allison said, “Let’s walk a little. I mean, now that we’re finally here.” They gravitated along a small track that wound toward the forest. They followed it through the grove, past cows that stared at them and then moved off to the end of their tethers, setting off a clattering of their wooden bells. Above them, the fronds of the coconut palms rattled an octave higher and softer. In a moment, they stepped quietly into a darker world. Inside the forest, the earth was close and damp, and the light was green and broken. Huge leathery leaves spread fan-like over their heads and flapped in their faces. The path grew dark and slippery. Allison heard Edmund slapping at mosquitoes and muttering about malaria. Before long they came to a small clearing. On the ground lay a prettily arrayed confusion of flowers, rice, and containers made of leaves, with tiny leaf-cups filled with bits of food — and on top of the offerings were two burning sticks of incense. Beyond, half hidden in the tangle of vegetation, stood a walled enclosure of crumbling brick, with a large stone gateway that was covered, almost crawling, with carvings. “Good God,” said Edmund. “It must be a temple of some sort,” Allison whispered. They stared at the gate. Unearthly stone beasts thrust out their tongues and snarled through curly lips. Other beasts were locked together in topsy-turvy embraces, grinning, emitting flames from their tongues, ears, anuses, and all surrounded by a swirling pattern of carved vegetation. “Come on, Ally, let’s get out of here. There’s no need to gawk at this filth.” But Allison stood there with her lips parted. She saw the dark carvings of the temple gate swarm and jumble with the living world of the forest. An immense tree glowered over the temple; parasite vines hung down from its hair-like aerial roots and mingled with grasses sprouting from the temple walls.
Butterflies and crawling insects flickered over the stone flowers and soft mosses. Suddenly a monkey leapt from nowhere onto the top of the wall and hissed at them, his jaws locked open in a gargling growl. Edmund yelped, backed into the heap of offerings, and stung his ankle on a stick of burning incense. “So the monkey guardian is awake,” said a voice with a nervous laugh. They turned and saw their driver. “Perhaps we should go,” he said. “Is this a temple?” Allison asked, and immediately felt stupid. “Oh yes.” Allison looked at the pile of offerings. Half-formed questions swarmed in her head, but Edmund was busy with his burnt sock and needed her attention. They made their way back to the hot car. Their journey now took them into the foothills. The rice fields became more steeply terraced, and more shapely. In the villages, the houses stood above them on high slopes, each with a long narrow flight of steps to a proud gate at the top. Some stairways were made of river stones, some of deeply trodden earth, as curvy as vertebrae. At last they came to a stop at the southern extremity of the village Desa Pondok, in cool high country. “Driver, do you know where we are?” said Edmund. “Yes, sir. The house is right here, sir.” The car had pulled up in front of a crumbling mud wall. “Good God.” Edmund looked grim. “You’d better check first, driver. Here, take my card.” Edmund removed a card from a silver case in his jacket and wrote “Mr. & Mrs.” in front of his name, and then, “with a message for Kaspar Schell from Bertrand Peal”. “Good thinking, honey.” Edmund and Allison sat in the back seat fanning themselves. Suddenly a small brown face appeared at the window a few inches away from Edmund’s face. He jumped, startled, and the face disappeared. A moment later all four side windows of the car were filled with children’s faces, all of them solemn, many with runny noses. The children stared deeply at Edmund and Allison; a few whispered among themselves. More and more children crowded around to look into the box of foreigners. Edmund looked at his watch and tried to find a place to direct his gaze that wasn’t full of children. Allison returned the children’s gaze, looking at their fine, honey-colored skin and stiff, dirty hair, a dull black; at their shapely lips and big bright eyes and exquisitely formed brows. “What the hell is taking that driver so long?” said Edmund. This brought a titter from the children. A small boy growled
something that sounded like “...diver song”, and now a wave of giggles passed through the crowd. Allison, amused, looked at the little boy and said, “Hello.” “Hello,” he said back. Squeals from the children. Somebody else tried it, without daring to look directly at Allison. Allison said hello in return. Shrieks of delight. Now it became a game, and now a contest, as everybody chimed in, hello hello, trying to get their turn greeting and being greeted by the foreigners. Allison glanced at Edmund and saw that he had a sickly smile pasted on his face. She said, “I guess they don’t see a lot of tourists.” “I told you we should have stayed with the itinerary. These people aren’t even trained yet.” Suddenly the chorus stopped and the children scattered as the driver returned and chased them away. “This is the house,” he said, opening the car door for Edmund. “Please come this way.” “Is Mr. Schell at home?” “He is at home.” They followed the driver up a few steps and through a raised gate into a swept-earth courtyard. There were a few mud brick hovels with thatched roofs. Twenty or more people of all ages cowered close to the buildings and peered out from dark doorways. The men were in loincloths and the women wore nothing more than mud-colored sarongs around their hips. There were many naked children. A very old woman with withered breasts stood in the middle of the courtyard and stared at them, her open mouth blood red with betel juice. The driver nodded amiably to all, bowing slightly to the old woman, and continued across the courtyard, past a swampy pigpen and into the gloom of a grove of coconut and banana trees. Soon they came to another mud wall, higher and newer than the first one, with a pretty gateway whose doors stood open. Now they passed into a garden full of color and light. Soaring tropical vegetation hid all but the thatched roof of a large building on their left. The view straight ahead faced east over a broad valley of terraced rice fields. In the far distance to the northeast rose the purple cone of an immense and solitary mountain. “Greetings!” a voice sang out. They turned to see a plump, fair-haired young man in white flannels coming towards them. “Mr. and Mrs. Peal, how do you do. I’m Kaspar Schell. What a pleasant surprise. I didn’t know Bertie had a brother.” “I’m his cousin. Pleased to meet you, Schell. This is my wife, Allison. Bert said to be sure to look you up. Quite a trek — but
not too bad once you get here.” He put his hands on his hips and looked approvingly at the clipped grass at his feet. “Please come in,” said Kaspar. “You must be tired and hungry and all sorts of things.” “We’ve brought you a package from Bert,” said Allison, giving it to him directly. She had been carrying it in her arms like a bouquet of flowers, and as she gave it to him, she had the sensation of bestowing a trophy at a horse show. Kaspar said, “How very kind of you to go to all this trouble to deliver it. Now do come in and let me take care of you.” As soon the package was out of her hands, Allison felt lighter. She smiled at Kaspar and then looked happily around her. Kaspar led them to a large open pavilion with polished floors and a roof as high as a barn. They sat around a marble table and Allison was so taken with the view before them that she found it hard to pay attention to her husband and her host. On the slope below the house grew a tall grass that rippled glistening down the hill and across to the far side of the gorge. Great trees with foliage as dark as spinach grew along the gorge; and across the entire vista, terraced paddy fields fit the contours of the land as perfectly as corsetry. As the afternoon light shifted, the mountain grew darker and seemed to draw nearer. “That’s Gunung Agung,” said Kaspar, “the island’s highest mountain. Lovely, isn’t it?” “Not a volcano, I hope,” said Edmund. “Theoretically, they’re all volcanoes out here — but Gunung Agung is extinct. It’s utterly benign.” “I’d love to visit the top,” said Allison. “Good God, Ally.” “As far as I know, it’s not done,” said Kaspar. “Too sacred. The Balinese believe it’s the heaven of their ancestors.” Allison looked at Kaspar. He looked almost like a character from a children’s musical play, she thought, with his pink cheeks and bright brown eyes. She said, “Have you lived here long, Mr. Schell?” “No, not long; about three years. One is here at the sufferance of the Dutch, of course, so I try to make myself useful to them.” “Doing what? You working out here, Schell?” said Edmund. “A friend and I are helping the government build up a collection for their ethnographic museum. It’s hardly what you’d call work — really just a matter of traveling around the island and chatting with the local people.” “You’ve got plenty of them in your front yard,” said Edmund. “You oughta buy them some clothes.” Allison said, “Are you a museum curator by profession, or
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a — what’s it called — an ethnologist?” “No, I’m a dilettante by profession,” and here he smiled with a pink radiance, “but I am passionately interested in everything about the Balinese.” “Bert says you’re quite the expert,” said Edmund frowning. He stifled a belch, and Allison recognized the scent of their sandwiches. At that moment, two young servants appeared with trays of afternoon tea. “Just a little something before dinner,” Kaspar said. “But perhaps you’d like to freshen up first. You must stay, you know. There’s plenty of room, and I won’t have anyone of Bertie’s staying at a government rest house. Besides, I’m having some friends over this evening; we’ll make it a party.” “We couldn’t possibly stay,” said Allison, wrapt, looking out over the valley. “Nonsense,” said Kaspar. “Come with me.” They followed Kaspar along a gravel path to a pretty little bungalow with a deep porch. “Watch your head,” he said as he led them through a low carved doorway. Inside was a roofed Chinese bed with draped mosquito netting. There was a marble wash stand with an old gilded mirror. Next to that was a low table piled with clean towels. In the corner stood a handsome wardrobe closet. Its doors were open; half a dozen robes hung there. “You see? We’re always prepared for guests. Won’t you stay?” “It’s damned good of you to offer,” said Edmund, “but I’m afraid the people at the rest house are expecting us back tonight.” “That’s no excuse at all,” said Kaspar. “We’ll send your driver back with a note and he can fetch your things. It’s really no trouble. Look, here’s the little bathroom out back. Why don’t you have a rest and think about it.” And then he left them. “Oh, Ed, isn’t it charming? Couldn’t we stay? “ “I don’t know, Ally. It’s not on the map.” “But Kaspar works with the government. It shouldn’t be a problem. And it really is so lovely here.” Then, aware of herself making an effort, she looked at her husband through dark eyelashes and said, “It could be like another honeymoon.” Edmund put his hands on his hips and stared at the thatched roof. “I bet that’s full of snakes.” That evening, as Kaspar had promised, there was a dinner party. The big pavilion was lit with dozens of tiny oil lamps, and the table was laid formally for eight. The other guests were Europeans: a tall man named Walter (“my distant neighbor and close colleague at the museum”, Kaspar said),
and Walter’s house guests: two elderly German ladies and two sleek young Macedonian men. From out in the garden came the honking of bullfrogs, and at the edge of the pavilion, musicians played a queer and shimmering music on a pair of bronze-keyed xylophones. Allison glowed in the lamplight and said, “Do people dine like this every night in Bali?” “Heavens, no,” said Kaspar. “I do hope you don’t find the food too odd. That’s duck, that’s a piglet, as you can see, and this is lawar, a Balinese specialty found only off the itinerary. It might be a bit spicy.” “Native cooking, is it?” said Edmund. He dabbed at something with his fork. “You run an impressive household, Mr. Schell,” Allison said. “Well, we’re a big family. And I must confess, this is all they know how to cook.” Walter, hunched and shy behind a very long nose, said to Kaspar, “Tell me, has your gamelan been converted to kebyar yet?” “They got it back from the gong-smith just a few days ago. The ngulapin was yesterday, and they’re going to bring it around tonight. It was going to be a surprise for you.” Allison looked at them, curious. Kaspar asked her, “Have you had a chance to hear gamelan yet?” Allison said they hadn’t. “Then you’re in for a treat. In London, I was at the opera or the theatre or the ballet every night. I’ve seen the best that Europe has to offer; but nothing touches what you can see here performed by ordinary farmers — because here people don’t perform for fame or money: they perform solely for the gods. Here art is sacred — anonymous. Now if that isn’t heaven, what is?” “You invited some gods tonight, Schell?” said Edmund, pouring himself another glass of wine. “We’re calling this a rehearsal. You see, the village gamelan group has had the keys of its gamelan re-forged to play a new kind of music. They’ve got in a teacher from Buleleng and we’re going to hear how they’re doing. We’ve even got a little baris dancer.” “Gambling, booling, bare-ass dancers — doesn’t sound like sacred art to me,” Edmund with a loud laugh. Allison’s eyes went bright with pain. Kaspar winked at her, then turned to Walter and continued their incomprehensible conversation. Walter’s guests turned back to each other, murmuring in their own languages. After dinner a crew of servants carried in the big gilt instruments of the gamelan orchestra with their heavy bronze
keys. Then the musicians filed in smoking cigarettes — about sixteen men and boys — and sat by their instruments while chairs were set up in a broad semi-circle facing the orchestra. The guests took their places and waited. Edmund fixed a cigarette in his holder, clamped it in his teeth, and felt in his pocket for matches. A serving-boy appeared in front of him with a lighter, just as the deep sound of a gong shivered through the entire company. It was a tone so low and pure that Allison felt a ripple of electricity through her bones. Now two more musicians came in and sat down in front of two large double-headed drums, picked them up and faced each other. The younger of the two seemed to be the conductor. He raised a drumstick and surveyed the orchestra. The other musicians picked up their little wooden mallets, held them poised over their instruments, and watched the conductor as if he were a cobra. Suddenly the pavilion shook with thundering gold as the orchestra burst alive and filled the air with music — a ringing, galloping, spangling, chattering, glistening music that came from everywhere at once and shattered Allison’s senses, made her feel giddy, almost airborne; that wrapped and carried her swirling in an ocean of dazzling sound for nearly twenty minutes, and then gently set her down in her chair at its conclusion. The musicians had put down their mallets, but the sound lingered on in little pellets of tone that clashed into each other as they floated off into the night. Allison clasped her hand to her chest and said, “Whew!” The German ladies looked at her and broke into friendly laughter. Edmund scowled and said, “Sounds like they haven’t had time to get their new orchestra tuned up. Where’s that boy with the lighter?” Kaspar and Walter were still staring into space, disheveled with joy. There was a short pause and the music started again; and now all eight spectators leaned forward in their chairs at the appearance of a small dancer in a brocade cape and glittering triangular headdress. The boy stood still and meek, his feet together and hands by his sides, while the music built up a gate of ornamental sound around him. Then suddenly the drums popped and the dancer sprang into an electrocuted stance. The music churned around him and the drums chattered and snapped, while very slowly the dancer crouched lower, arched his arms higher, and sent bolts of power surging out his fingertips. Slowly he stirred the air with hands kept taut as wires, then burst into a hammering, machinelike gait, then froze, switched, stomped, coiled and crouched, threatening and pouncing, as if in combat with some immense
invisible enemy. Allison watched enraptured. Kaspar and Walter conferred as they watched, nodding with critical enthusiasm. The German ladies bobbed their heads to an imaginary beat, and the Macedonians held hands, smiling happily. Edmund nudged Allison and held his fingertips over his forehead. When the dance was over, Edmund and Allison excused themselves and retired. A few minutes later, as Allison undressed, Edmund sat on the bed examining his ankle. “Look, Ally. It’s gotten infected walking through that yard. I bet there isn’t a doctor within a hundred miles of here.” “You’re not enjoying Bali, are you, darling?” “No, as a matter of fact, I’m not. If you ask me, it’s primitive. All those statues of goblins everywhere, natives running around half-naked — and that awful music. The whole place gives me the creeps.” “I wouldn’t call Kaspar and his friends primitive.” “He’s a flaming fairy, Ally. They’re all as queer as catfish in boots. Believe me, I can tell.” “Oh, Ed, what does that matter?” “By God, it makes you wonder about old Bert, doesn’t it. I wonder what he sent in that package — probably a dress.” “Let’s have a look at your ankle, honey.” “Look, can you see the wound? Here it is. Tropical sepsis. I’d better take some quinine or something.” The next day, Kaspar brought in a Dutch doctor who treated Edmund like an imbecile but painted his ankle brightly with mercurochrome. Edmund told the doctor, “I’ll have to stay off my feet for a few days.” The doctor left him a tiny bottle of laudanum. It was during Edmund’s convalescence that Allison had begun to discover Bali. That had been two weeks ago. Now as they approached the Houtmans’ house and their crowded front garden, Allison shook off her thoughts of Edmund and said to Kaspar, “Is this reception going to be daunting?” “Only the speeches. Everything’s a bit stiff until the Resident leaves, then it’s just a typical colonial dinner party with plates on your knees and lots of talk about servants. I don’t suppose you speak Dutch, do you? Here we are. Now don’t worry. If we get separated, just stay close to Emma.” [to be continued]
Andrew Hall attempts to come to grips with why he's here. During times of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act. - George Orwell People in search of a sea change seem to be crossing my path more and more these days. And with them come the questions: “Why did you move here? How did you move here? What’s it like to actually live here?” In reverse order: love it to bits; on a plane; errrrm . . . Maybe it’s time to figure it out. On a small continent a bit south of here I was probably doing everything that might be considered right and proper – albeit that I absolutely refused to wear a suit and tie. Fashion prang paraphernalia I always thought . . . a form of camouflage used to conceal the real skills and intent of the wearer. Look at George Bush Jr. Anyway, having circumvented dress code issues by wangling my way into media organisations that would accept a vaguely bohemian chappie who could write a bit, I worked my way up the ladder – often surprising interviewees who thought my mirrored Indian waistcoat meant that they were in for a pleasant chat and a toke or two on a splif. Media organisations often appoint senior managers who’ve had no work experience in the media (witness the degradation in journalistic values and quality) and the noddy who ran my company decreed that I get out of my jeans and boots and get into slacks and slip-ons. Tosser. So I resigned and went teaching at a university. That was challenging and fun for a number of years – until the administration (who, in the main, had no experience as educators) decided it was a great idea to load up our tutorial groups to the point of resembling the mosh
pit at a grunge concert; and piled on rules and restrictions - my jeans were under threat once again. But another 18 months and I would have a job for life in the academy . . . I suspected it could be a fate worse than death. Looking around my workplace and the society it was part of, I often thought I was stuck in a never-ending rerun of The Stepford Wives – where robotic and
sanguinely sinister responses are the norm. I got sick . . . really sick. Politicians and the public preoccupied themselves with persecuting people who were precocious enough to seek shelter on our shores from war, disease and degradation inflicted upon them in their birth countries. Our response was (and still is) to imprison them pending processing like so many sheep. I recovered from my illness quickly enough but realised there was something
deeper that I couldn’t shake – somewhere in the vicinity of what some of you might call a soul. There was a lonely emptiness even when sitting with a group of friends around a cheery pub fire drinking good red wine. It was time to leave all that was so drearily familiar, so easy (if you played the game by “their” interminable rules). I got rid of my job and most of my possessions and came to Bali – a place that had cheered me numerous times in the past. A place where the local people still have spiritual substance; communal cohesion; an ability to accept those not their own. A place that in and of itself has something difficult to define, yet strangely tangible. Of course there are the predictable and ubiquitous unkindnesses that local people and expats alike like to inflict upon one another. But there are friendships to be made in a community that truly represents a multicultural melting pot. Importantly, we seem to have time enough to grow those friendships. We seem to have time which is not of the essence. You can’t buy your life back no matter how much money you have. We are able to learn from people who have grown up in cultures different than our own. Things that are both useful and funny, like the most poignant insult ever invented – taught to me by a Finnish friend: katsu sukia! in Finnish; it translates as “look at your socks!” There are challenges to be faced here, material and otherwise. But the greatest challenges anyone can face are those presented to one’s self by one’s self. And Bali is a mirror – sometimes uncomfortable but never boring. I left my country about 15 years ago. I am happy. I am looking at my socks... Illustration by Captain Freddie.