The Bud #12

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali

Volume 12 - april/may/june 2012

ayu laksmi NOODLES mask sanur trans mission runaways como IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â‚Ź3.50

!"#$%ation

restaurant

Seasonal Cuisine...

Immerse yourself in a culinary journey at Plantation Restaurant.

Executive Chef, Eelke Plasmeijer (previously of Michelin-starred Vermeer and SHY, Jakar ta) and his culinary team passionately prepare a modern seasonal tasting and a la car te menu. Enjoy the best local ingredients prepared using classic French culinary techniques, and served with a refreshing modern twist.

Star t your journey with a fine selection of our signature seasonal cocktails, infused vodkas, araks and syrups – all made in-house from the best produce the season has to offer.

Plantation Restaurant, an open Balinese-style restaurant, with a central bar, towering coconut pillars and traditional alang-alang roof, creates an exotic ambience for diners as they feast on stunning views of our natural surroundings.

For reservations, contact: Alila Ubud - Plantation Restaurant T: 0361 975 963 E: ubud@alilahotels.com

Volume Twelve APR/MAY/JUNE 2012

The Bud Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa / sales & marketing Ananda Sarina Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri Teuku Melody Super Stu Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher P.T. Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising enquiries Tel/Fax: (+62 361) 8446341, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.thebudmag.com The Bud Magazine Bali.

Email: info@thebudmag.com Canggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Luxury In Print yPod Bali V.2.0 – The Yak and Bud Magazines' iPhone App featuring the best places to go in Ubud and beyond – is available from the App. Store.

06 08 14 22 26 32 38 43 49 74 80 82 84 88

Out of the box Local Global Front up New and noted DEEP TRIVIA Fire Works BRUSHSTROKES Maskman FEATURE Sanur, Sanur INTERVIEW Ayu Laksmi feature Transmission the list Guidezine goodness turis condition Ow Om Oh

32

Ayu.

FOOD Como Shambhala FOOD Oodles of Noodles CAUSES Bali Spirit Feature Wave Power runaways On High

26

Sanur.

We recently saw the hearts and minds of the world in Ubud with the 2012 Bali Spirit Festival. Physical and, maybe, metaphysical cultures coalesced to provide soulful journeys.

Music soothed the savage breast.

A vortex of peace, and dare we say it, love, descended as if decreed by the island itself. Coming hot-ish on the heels of our quiet day, Nyepi, the festival was yet another reason that so many of us abide by the Law of Attraction in choosing this place as our home – whether we are transient or transfixed. Or does it choose us?

We at The Bud have contemplated, meditated if you like, to broaden our perspectives – to take our magazine and fly into spaces and places heretofore not yet visited. Just kidding friends – we’ve always had our eyes on the bigger picture . . . that’s what makes this thing so much fun.

We are part of the world. You are too. With all of its chaos and calamity there is also calmness and quietude to be found. . . . so don’t be surprised to visit Sanur in this issue where we meet three lovely people who live there; who tell us why

the beachside hamlet is actually a very cool place to be. Not to mention the fabulous photo spread put together by our resident ninja.

Don’t be surprised when we take a journey to Oakland, California, with Harmony who recounts her journey as an “occupier” in that city, and as a gentle birth worker helping underprivileged women on Bali.

The harmonious pairing of Australian Amanda and American Eve gives rise to happy and healthful helpings at Como Shambhala in Payangan – where food is a foundation for a better life.

Come sing and dance with us as we investigate the drive and dedication of Ayu Laksmi . . . or simply sing and dance because it’s a good thing to do . . . However the dancing might stop when Diana Darling slams us into the present with Turis Condition. Ouch!

Take a peek at some excellent places to recreate.

Our eyes are open, our antennae are up, we are looking at a global aesthetic that can be insightful, inspiring, astringent and absurd all at the same time.

What’s the story? Morning glory . . .

A restful retreat, mistify and excite...

Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia Phone : 62-361-970388 Fax : 62-361-970377 Email : sales@tepisawahvillas.com www.tepisawahvillas.com

Moon Shine Spa Alila at Alila Ubud puts a whole new spin on natural spa treatments, now offering Moonlight Remedies in a wonderful outdoor setting, drawing on the energy of the moon in its new and full phases and the rhythms of nature. Moonlight Remedies are only available during the new and full moon every 1st and 15th day of the lunar month. Spa-loving guests can choose to be pampered within the sanctuary of Spa Alila’s indoor spa suites, or outside amid the lush green surroundings of the resort's Sculpture Garden on the banks of the magical Ayung River. The remedy evokes complete mind and body relaxation as you are surrounded by nature's lushness, breathing in the fresh air and lured by the sound of bird calls.

Moonlight Remedies are exclusively available during the full moon period, starting at 7pm for the duration of 90 or 120 minutes.

Tel. 975 963 www.alilahotels.com Map ref. A.2 Sunny San Guests at Villa San are spoiled for choice when it comes to ways to relax – reflecting the owners’ artistic and spiritual leanings.

The spacious grounds offer freedom and flexibility for both families and groups of friends, with hammocks and sun loungers arranged around the 25 x five-metre pool, and a pool pavilion seating up to 15 people. Inside, as well as the living and dining spaces, there are two well-equipped entertainment rooms – one is part of the two-bedroom master suite; the other adjacent to the informal dining room, a gym and a children’s playroom. The villa showcases some exquisite art and handicrafts from China, Ghana and Indonesia.Villa San comprises six large bedrooms – three doubles and three twins. French doors from all the bedroom pavilions look out over tranquil gardens, only steps away from the long sloping lawn and inviting swimming pool. www.villasanbali.com

Spirit of Maya Maya Ubud Resort & Spa presents A Spiritual Journey, a five-day/four-night program that will enable you to experience and understand the spirituality of the Balinese.

The program includes yoga and meditation, walks to nearby temples and a visit to a Balinese healer or obtaining a priestly blessing. Experienced staff explain the making of temple offerings, traditional village customs and the Balinese philosophy of life.

Tel. 977 888 www.mayaubud.com Map ref. L.18

museum & resort

museum

resort

ARMA distills the finest of Balinese art and culture, allowing you to discover the uniqueness of Balinese traditional culture to indulge yourself in the luxurious accommodations and pamper your sense with the flavours and aromas of a wide selection of delicious cuisines.

Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud, P.O Box 9696 Bali 80571, Indonesia Phone : (62-361) 976659, Fax : (62-361) 975332 Website : www.armabali.com E-Mail : info@armabali.com, sales@armabali.com

Design Bridge Bridges, already famous for its romantic atmosphere recently launched a worldwide design competition that invites designers and visionaries to create a space that can only be described as ‘the most romantic bar in the world’.

One of the criteria is that, while the bar is most romantic in design, it will not deter a person who enters alone and leave her or him feeling ‘singled out’. If you’ve got the skills step into the arena and get drawing for the beginning of a new and beautiful relationship – one of harmony and design.

Tel. 289 752 www.bridgesbali.com Map ref. H.2

New Directions THE Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan has introduced a new concept incorporating authentic spiritual traditions including chakra balancing, Balinese Ayurvedic practices, yoga and meditation.

The jungle setting provides a serene, nurturing environment ideal for treatments that offer a deep inner focus. Guests have the opportunity to learn Balinese philosophy and discover a truly Eastern healing experience, providing a practical, modern approach to living.

Developed by Helen Norman, the Senior Director of Spas for both Four Seasons Resorts Bali, new signature treatments at the Spa are selected according to each individual’s needs. The seven Chakra Blessing treatments are designed to restore the energy centres that run along the spinal column. Balinese Ayurvedic healing aims to re-establish balance and wholeness.

At the same time, local rituals such as Batu Kali Riverstone Ritual reflect the age-old cleansing and beautifying traditions of the Balinese people. Many treatments feature luxurious Ila spa products, along with locally grown medicinal herbs, spices, fruits, plants and flowers.

Tel. 977 577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map ref. D.3

Contemporary Naka NAKA has a vision to empower a multicultural group of artists to enthuse and engage the local and global community, manifesting a more expansive and inclusive perception of the reality that we live in exchanging ideas in a dialogue of contemporary practice in varied artistic fields utilising traditional and modern expressions and media.

Tel.738 829 www.nakacontemporaryart.com Map ref. A.4

Uma Meets Mussels Moules et frites will be served at the Uma Ubud Pool Bar every Friday night from 7pm onwards. Enjoy a steaming pot of freshly cooked mussels with a bowl of crispy pommes frites. Pair your choice of mussels with a bottle Bali’s own Storm Beer or a glass from their wide range of house wines.

Tel. 972 448 www.como.bz Map ref. A.4

Mozaic And More Chris Salans, chef/owner of Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique on Bali, has launched his first book titled Mozaic: French Cuisine, Balinese Flavours. The 144-page literary work combines the story of Chef Salans’ journey in Indonesia, his discovery of the island’s ingredients and the birth of his award-winning restaurant.

Complemented with Mozaic-style recipes, the book introduces Balinese ingredients, describes and analyses them before providing recipes.

Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique, has been recognised as the best restaurant in Indonesia and Bali by international publications, and is the first restaurant in South-East Asia to be recognised by the prestigious Tradition et Qualité association as a member of ‘Les Grande Tables Du Monde’ (The Grand Tables of the World).

Tel. 975 768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref. B.3 Merry Go Round Newly opened, The Round Bar is the Ubud’s first bar serving exotic premium cocktails coming from special recipes in environmentally friendly premises. It is located on Jl. Penestanan Kelod and is clearly visible because of its unusual shape and the bright graffiti painting on its exterior.

The Round Bar serves the best premium cocktails, pairing them with sexy tapas selections. The bar opens at 7am for breakfast. At night there are live acoustic and DJ performances.

Already a hot meeting spot, the RoundBar has started to attract patrons from all over Bali, who appreciate the whimsical efforts in preserving the environment, as well as the premium cocktails and light finger food.

Tel. 08123966774 Map ref. H.2 Most Excellent The Pandawas Villas was presented with the ‘Award for Excellence’

by Trip Advisor in its first year of operation and is quickly becoming the leading boutique resort in Ubud.

It focuses on delivering an extraordinary personal guest experience with the privacy and flexibility one would expect from an international venue of repute. Beyond its stunning location, modern design and full amenities, what makes Pandawas Villas unique amongst the myriad private luxury rental villas in the area is a combination of subdued comforts, serene spaces and distinctive details that not only make you feel indulgent beyond your imagination, but also makes you feel very much at home. Yay. Tel. 971877

www.pandawas-villas.com

deep trivia

Diana Darling investigates, informs and illuminates the second element in our series on the stories behind Balinese cultural practices. This issue...flame on.

deep trivia

Brahma In Bali’s well-ordered cosmos, fire is associated with the number nine, the colour red, the god Brahma, and the cardinal direction South. This cluster of energies also has its own particular mystical weapon (danda) and holy syllable (bang, although that’s not how it’s pronounced). In Bali’s messy kitchens, Brahma is felt to reside in the fireplace or stove and is paid homage – along with other spirits and deities around the house – with daily rice offerings set out after cooking but before eating.

Brahmana vs Pandé The power of fire is naturally frightening; it is the stuff of the sun itself. To have domesticated fire was one of the first feats of human civilisation. In modern Bali, those who use fire as a tool are still accorded great respect. Balinese metalsmiths belong to a clan group called Pandé.

Before the colonial Dutch revamped the Balinese caste system in the early 20th century, the Pandé enjoyed a status so exalted that they refused the holy water of Brahmana priests, accepting only that of their own high priests, or empu.

Writing in the 1930s, Miguel Covarrubias said in Island of Bali: "The distinguished pandés are even respected by the proud Brahmanas, who consider themselves the highest form of humanity, and who are required to address a pandé in the high language when the smith has his tools in his hands.

Besides making useful things like jewellery and iron tools, the Pandé also have the prerogative of making kris daggers, which requires not only being born into the Pandé clan but also some spiritual initiation in order imbue a kris with its subtle powers. If you visit Pura Besakih during its temple festivities, you may see members of Pandé clan at their clan temple. The men will be wearing red headcloths."

Cremation Fire is considered a force of cleansing. In Balinese cremation rituals (ngaben) the corpse is reduced to ashes which are then dissolved in the sea. This helps to free the soul and let it get on with the process of spiritual refinement in the afterlife.

Sometimes a corpse is burned before the full ngaben rituals can be held. This pre-ngaben burning is called mekingsan ring geni, ‘entrusting [someone] to the care of fire.

Today in Bali, firewood is no longer commonly used for cremation fires. Even with a jerry-rigging of kerosene hosed over the fire, it is slow and expensive compared to the blast of a big gas-fired blow torch, although tourists

have been known to complain, finding firewood more ‘authentic’. Another feature of modern Balinese cremations is the presence of a fire truck, if one is available. The next new trend, but not yet at all common, may be incineration.

Krematorium Santha Yana, Bali’s first Hindu crematorium, was opened in 2008 in Denpasar by a group of Balinese priests. Their services are ritually complete and very inexpensive.

Disastrous fires Bali’s most horrific fire was surely that of October 12, 2002, after the infamous Kuta nightclub bombing, with over two hundred people killed and many more maimed.

Fire dance Like the kecak dance which often precedes it in tourist performances, the ‘fire dance’ (sanghyang jaran) comes from the very old folk-trance rituals called sanghyang, which used to be performed in times of epidemics or other communal ills. A chorus of singers chant the old songs while a solo trance performer rides a hobby horse barefoot, skipping and dancing through a thick blanket of glowing coals. One Balinese authority on the internet says that “in Sanghyang Jaran dance, the dancers are possessed by [an] ancestral deity, a Gandarwa (celestial soldier) on horseback.” Jaran means ‘horse’.

Firemen The fire-fighting service is called Pemadam Kebakaran (PMK) in Bahasa Indonesia, and it is under the jurisdiction of the regencies (kebupaten). The emergency number for fires is 113.

Tourists who are firemen often like to check out firefighting services in the countries they visit. An entry on Trip Advisor noted in a conversation about where to find fire stations in Bali: [Yes,] there is a fire station, most of the equipment is donated ODA. Actually, the best to visit and probably most friendly would be the fire station in the Nusa Dua resort area.

I believe it's just across from the Bali Collection shopping mall.

Forget about calling the fire brigade in an emergency.

You are on your own. I have heard they negotiate a payment before trying to put out the fire. By then it's all over. Best to have insurance.

Nice spa fire in Kuta last week. Escaping guests running around naked added to the excitement.

Right: Channeling folk trance.

deep trivia

Fire starter.

feature

Fireworks and children For some reason, Balinese children are allowed to set off fireworks weeks in advance of New Year’s Eve and Nyepi, holidays thought to require this pretty but dangerous entertainment. Children are sometimes also the vendors of fireworks.

Flames emitted by witches It is said that witches emit fire from their orifices, or perhaps their chakras. A Rangda mask depicts flames flaring from the crown of her head and long tongue of fire.

Freak fires In March 2004, there was a fire in a marketplace in Jembrana regency, which caused some Rp15 billion worth of damage and was thought to have started in a refrigerator.

Incense Besides electrical malfunctions, another common source of fires is incense left unattended. Incense (dupa) is indispensible to Balinese Hindu ritual, its fragrant smoke creating a ladder of communication to the gods. Some say the origins of its use comes from China through Buddhism.

Dupa is also the sacred weapon of the god Mahaswara (or Mahasora), lord of the Southeast region of the universe.

Jago Merah In what is perhaps a sort of back-slapping respect for this terrifying force, Indonesians have a nickname for fire – Si Jago Merah (“Red Champion”), a term beloved of Indonesian journalists, who are apparently required to use it in any article describing a fire.

Retail fire ritual In the new age of spiritual tourism in Bali, one enterprising resort has developed an event in which visitors may participate in an ancient Vedic ritual called Agnihotra. Agni is the Indian Hindu deity of fire, and Agnihotra is a rite of purification in which offerings of ghee and rice grains are tossed into to a brightly blazing fire accompanied by mantra. The ritual is officiated by Balinese priests. Although the word ‘Agni’ does not appear in Balinese dictionaries, the resort’s owners say that Agnihotra was common in Bali until about 300 hundred years ago, when there was a bad fire in Klungkung and the practice was dropped. Proceeds from the tickets are donated to a foundation for the preservation of Balinese culture.

Agnihotra is practiced in other parts of the world and is reported to be effective in reducing stress and improving agriculture.

Sports fire Those who have never done so may want to try fireball bungy jumping.

Volcanoes The Indonesian archipelago is famously part of the ‘ring of fire’ that encircles the Pacific Ocean and is said to include three-quarters of the Earth’s volcanoes. The volcano is a window into the fiery centre of our planet, whose core is said to be hotter than the surface of the sun from which it originated. The symbolic logic of Brahma being the lord of creation is thus apparent in physical science.

Widow burning The colonial Dutch were naturally revolted by the Balinese custom of (mesatiya) in which widows and favoured servants threw themselves into the cremation fires of their kings. The last case of widow sacrifice in Bali is usually said to have occurred in 1902 at the court of Tabanan.

The Dutch employed their outrage as political pressure on the remaining independent rajas in the course of their full conquest of the island. But there was another instance of widow sacrifice in 1906, on the night of 19-20 September.

This was the eve of the suicidal Puputan Badung, when the courts of Badung walked in procession into Dutch cannon fire. That night in a tiny ceremony in the palace, the king cremated his deceased brother who had long laid there in state. His wife Ida Ayu Ketut Oka died in his cremation fire.

The Balinese official who recounts this story refers to this final gesture as satia geni, or ‘faith by fire’. This spirit of valour is reflected in the story of Rama’s wife Sita in the Ramayana. Sita, accused of having been unfaithful when she was captured by the demon Rawana, proves her fidelity by throwing herself into a fire. … ‘her mind sparked with anticipation’ because she ‘asked to die out of loyalty … All attachment vanished as, fearless ... she dived into the fire.’ Of course ‘she was not hurt – only the hearts of those who saw her caught fire and turned to ashes’. The pyre itself ‘changed into a golden lotus’.

BRUSHSTROKES

Neal Adams gOES behind the scenes with bali's topeng master.

On Kuningan day 2012 I am invited by my good friend Gede Danan Jaya Siadja to the temple, Pura Taman Pule, in Mas village, Ubud, to see the dance performance, Wayang Wong, that tells part of the Ramayana story.

Kuningan is a celebration in Bali marking the return of ancestors to their ethereal space after visiting living relatives for 10 days starting with the holiday of Galungan. It takes place every 210 days – the length of a Balinese year, which is based on the growing cycle of Balinese rice.

I turn up in my best pakaian adat (traditional clothing) and make my way through a bustling crowd of people, all dressed in white, gathering in the centre of the temple compound.

I notice something unusual – in this temple there are abundant umbrellas bound together making colourful statements. I ask Gede about this and he tells me the temple is known as the temple of a thousand umbrellas.

Gamelan music starts playing, silencing the crowd.

Dancers emerge from one of the anterior spaces all dressed in stunning costumes and wearing antique masks.

These masks are special – they possess taksu (which means they are infused with spiritual energy).

There is a trance-like feeling emanating from the dance that draws one in.

I am invited into the inner sanctum of the temple where another dance is being performed, this time by young girls all dressed in gold and white and adorned with headdresses made of many flowers.

I understand all that is going on is not just for the benefit of the tourists who are present.

This performance is a part of the identity of Bali, providing the Balinese with a strong cultural bond and feeling of community.

Gede explains to me with pride that his grandfather, Ketut Rodja, had performed in the Wayang Wong dance in the 1930s and also carved some of the masks still in

use today.

The German artist, Walter Spies (who lived for many years in Tjampuhan, Ubud), along with Keteut Rodja made changes to the costume during that time, from one that was less dramatic to the more operatic style seen nowadays.

Another dance Kupu Kupu Carum was also created

by Spies and Rodja, which is documented the book written by Walter Spies called Living Legend of Bali.

Ketut Rodja was a master carver and started the first art gallery on Bali. He was also influential in the Bali Art Deco movement. He exhibited his work in Belgium in the 1950s alongside artists such as one of Indonesia’s most famous, Affandi.

His gallery was a favorite place of the President Sukarno to visit while he was spending time in Bali – being on the way from the south to the presidential palace in Tempaksiring.

The village of Mas is known throughout the world (of collectors and craftspeople) for its quality woodcarving thanks to the pioneering work of Ketut Rodja and his brothers.

At Siadja Gallery, Gede Siadja is following in the footsteps of his grandfather by maintaining the traditions that have contributed to the ongoing cultural impact Bali has on the wider world.

With his inherited carving skills (and willingness to act as a guardian of the sacred) Gede Siadja plays an important part as a cultural conservator . . . ensuring that the Wayang Wong performance will remain relevant for generations to come.

Neal Adams is a painter and avid student of art history who has immersed himself in theory and technique, and worked in the art world since he was in his mid-teens. Now in his early 40s, Neal lives and paints in Ubud. His work can be viewed at Orgone Gallery in Sanggingan.

Heritage incarnate.

BRUSHSTROKES

Gede Siadja.

feature

Sanur is an island within an island.

Andrew Hall yaks with some Sanurians to find out what the Denpasar suburb means to them . . .

Salvaging Sanur: fishing boats, beached and reefed.

feature

Roots, man.

As we speak, three hulks lay floundering on the reef that protects the inner waters off the beach in the haven broadly called Sanur. They provide a visual cue to memories of times past when things were not so tranquil.

Way back when the Dutch were running things in Indonesia (or the Dutch East Indies as it was then known) and there were large trading fleets running between the archipelago and European (and other) ports, the reefs that surround Bali claimed numerous merchantman vessels. And from time immemorial the Balinese people, in the form of the raja ruling class, claimed the right to salvage these ships and their cargoes . . . even passengers and crew.

In accordance with their principle of reef rights, tawan karang – honouring the sea deity Batara Baruna – the rajas and their people accepted as a gift from the gods whatever ship came to grief.

This activity had always been a sore point between the Dutch colonialists and Balinese regents, with the Dutch claiming sole salvage rights to all vessels that sailed (and crashed) under their empirical flag, including those actually owned by other nations. The rajas refused to give way.

On July 19, 1841, the Dutch frigate, Overijssel, ran aground off Kuta due to a basic navigational blunder by the ship’s master . . . who thought he was sailing off Java. The Balinese accepted this godly gift and set about exercising their reef rights (despite the fact that the ship possessed its own ordinance and armed personnel).

The Dutch authorities, somewhat embarrassed at such a lapse in basic seamanship (and a forlorn lack of dedication to cargo protection), decided to use the incident as an excuse to exert a delusional moral high ground and to try to force the Balinese into an accord with their wannabe imperial masters. . . . no ship-plundering okay guys . . . or else . . .

Up yours, was the response.

But by the latter 19th century – because of superior firepower – the Dutch had, to all intents and purposes, taken control of the northern regency of Bululeng, its deep-water port, and its capital, Singaraja.

But they wanted more – colonialists always do. In fact they wanted all of it, all of Bali.

On September 20 (some sources say the 14th), 1906, an overwhelming Dutch force landed on the beach in Sanur and marched towards the Badung regency’s capital, Denpasar. Reports indicate that the advance on the capital resembled more a regimental parade than tactical military operation – little or no opposition was

encountered.

Upon arrival in Denpasar the invading force – who by this time must have been starting to think they had ended up in some highly surreal situation – found the town eerily quiet. . . . until the beating of drums and gongs was heard coming from within the walls of the palace. The royal court emerged to face its foes on the Denpasar-Sanur road; all were dressed in white and wearing their finest finery. Seeing that they couldn’t win the fight, the raja ordered an aide to dispatch him with a holy kris (ceremonial dagger). Others followed suit. And then the Dutch began to help out.

Thus, the Puputan Badung came to pass. Puputan means "conclusion" or "bringing an end to". The reality was that this event meant an end to the Badung nobility, the royal court, and myriad retainers of the royal family.

About a thousand people are reported to have died in the one-sided conflict.

And then the plundering of the slain began – which rather put the whole shipwreck thing in perspective.

Things are more peaceful now . . .

Ida Ayu (Tuttie) Kompiang grew up in Sanur during the 1950s and ‘60s, which, at the time, was a small hamlet in a jungle that fringed the foreshore.

"Although my school was in Denpasar I liked to hang around with the kids from the village . . . playing by the sea, it was beautiful," Dayu Tuttie says.

"We used to get fish from the fishermen – the fish from Sanur was the best, the sweetest tasting you can imagine. And we got octopus, which was also delicious.

"We would feed the guests at our hotel with this bounty from the sea which was on our doorstep."

Dayu Tuttie’s family built the first hotel (the Segara Beach Hotel) for tourists in Sanur.

Those were the days when visitors to Bali came by cruise ship and were, in the main, Americans. They would disembark at Padang Bai and fan out across the island – many choosing to visit Sanur where Dayu Tuttie’s father, Ida Bagus Kompiang (now Ide Pedanda Gde Ngurah Karang) had created something special for them . . . "the Bali Night".

"My father came up with the idea that our guests would be seated around prahu (outrigger fishing boats – which served as tables) on cushions on the beach.

We would lay coconut fronds on the boats and present people with a Balinese-style feast (but not too spicy)," Dayu Tuttie says.

"Because there wasn’t enough electricity in those

feature

days we lit the whole scene up with coconut shell oil lamps and there would be performances . . . and I would dance."

Dayu Tuttie started traditional dance at the age of three.

Ide Pedanda Karang was the head of the Bali branch of the quasi-government tourism authority and worked closely with his friend Harmenkobwono IX, the sultan of Yogyakarta and, then, vice-president of Indonesia, to promote tourism in the fledgling republic.

Charlie Chaplin was one of his guests.

Dayu Tuttie’s father was a close friend of Indonesia’s first president, Sukarno, who cajoled the Japanese government to build the Bali Beach Hotel in Sanur (and several others on Java) as compensation for the Japanese occupation of Bali in the wake of World War II. "We used to call him Bung (which means friend or brother)," Dayu Tuttie says. ". . . and when the troubles came in 1965 he told us we must evacuate to Jakarta . . . which we did. I returned to Sanur in 1968.

"But before that was really the best time for me in Sanur – I used to ride around on my bicycle; there was no traffic; there was no bypass . . . I used to go from one part of Sanur to another by prahu – it was a great time.”

Things are different these days with the beach side of the bypass being highly developed, Dayu Tuttie says.

But, in contrast to places further south, the land in Sanur is mostly owned by Balinese – many of whom are Kompiang family members, who were largely responsible for convincing the Sanur community about the advantages of renovating and beautifying the foreshore in the 2000s (with the assistance of the World Bank).

"I am still very happy here," Dayu Tuttie says.

***

John Fawcett – founder and chairman of the John Fawcett Foundation that provides free cataract operations and cleft palate surgery to impoverished Indonesians – has lived in Sanur for more than 28 years.

"It’s my theory that if you want to find the best place to live, try to look at where people lived 500, or in the case of Sanur, up to 1,000 years ago," he says.

"They had cooling breezes for nine months of the year from the south-west; they had excellent water that was easily accessed from a sandy aquifer; they had abundant fish stocks; they had everything they needed for a good life."

There is currently an archeological investigation

adjacent to the Bali Beach Hotel to determine what the Sanur ancients were up to.

"To me Sanur is the most perfect place on Bali to live . . . but we don’t advertise that – we want to keep it a secret," John says.

John’s home also serves as the headquarters of his foundation. It is a simple, open design that takes advantage of the breezes and precludes the necessity for air conditioning.

"Kuta and Legian, for instance, have a role to play in satisfying the tourist shopaholics but Sanur is a beautiful place to have a quiet residence – it avoids all the congestion of places further south . . . and it is within striking distance of fabulous mountain scenery and beautiful villages," he says.

"The local people are very pleasant – much as they were 30 years ago."

For John the continuing sense of community sets Sanur apart from other places on the island – the Balinese community and those from places foreign who have lived amongst them for many years.

"It’s been a lovely time . . . and I’m frightened to think about how quickly the time has gone. But that’s one of the shocks of being 80 years old."

***

Mayke Boestami Anderson – vice-president of the Bali International Women’s Association – is a relative newcomer to Sanur (three years) after moving from Ubud where she and husband, Colin, lived for many years.

"Ubud is a nice environment, especially if you are retired and have a lot of money, but Sanur is more like a county – a family county where people live together happily and help each other," she says.

"Whatever you need you can get in Sanur without having to drive a long way.

"You can sit on the beach and say hi to people you’ve never met . . . and they’ll actually say hi back and start a conversation."

"Friendly" is the main word that comes to Mayke when she thinks about Sanur. She says it’s a great place to socialise and a conveniently central place to conduct business.

"Here I get the sense that I’m in a free world . . . whereas I think Ubud has become so commercial," she says.

"Sanur in the present day feels a lot like Ubud used to in the 1980s and early ‘90s."

Gold.

interview

It’s not everyday we meet a woman like Ayu Laksmi, singer, actress, dancer, songwriter and producer . . . welcome to Ayu’s world.

Ayo Ayu.

interview

Where were you born?

I’m 45 now, Balinese origin, from North Bali, Singaraja, married six years to a Belgian man.

Did you ever imagine that we would be sitting together back then, and now twenty odd years after, that I would be interviewing you about your trailblazing career?

I cannot imagine it because, you know, I believe that most of the time life is unpredictable, so we will never know who’s the person we will be going to meet next. There’s a saying, if you’ve met someone, after 20 years that is a true friend . . . so you are truly my friend.

Listening to your CD I was surprised about the direction your music has taken, quite a departure?

Totally changing, actually I started after the bomb in 2002, I had a different vision which totally changed me. I don’t know why and it’s hard to explain, something moving inside myself, a different energy, a different inspiration, different dream, different expectation, surrounded by different people and need everything totally changing. Before the bombings I was into so many things musically, from rock, to folk, Latin, and jazz.

Okay, let's go from there?

I was surrounded by a family that lived art – actually my mother was a dentist, so schooling was serious, I had to get a degree from university.

My second obligation was to be involved in any kind of art – singing as a child and winning contests, I naturally followed in that direction artistically.

You had a dear friend, Bobby, who sang with you in the group Tropical Transit, was he an influence on your style?

Bobby, very close, he was one of my mentors; sadly he passed away three years ago. When I was 20-years-old I moved to rock music, also moving to Jakarta to the music industry where I was signed to a major label in 1991. That went on for two years, so many temptations – all good mind you – but on the other hand I had promised my mother I would finish school. So after my first album, Astana Yama Hilang, which means “Missing Palace” was Indonesian rock. Later I decided Jakarta was not the right place for me, better I live in my homeland and create something from here and so I joined Tropical Transit in 1995.

Ayu and Nyoman Sura.

interview

Songbird.

Correct me if I’m wrong, at that time there weren’t many groups around – one of the generals’ sons was in a rock band and overdosed, so the general banned rock music for a while?

Yeah, we were just about the only ones. Riwin is still doing Tropical Transit and we’re really good friends. In 2002 I built my own band, Svara Semesta, so in 2008 I finished with Tropical Transit.

You became an actress as well and with great reviews, how did that happen?

Ah, yeah (laughs), that was the movie Under The Tree – coincidence. I didn’t have any acting experience but I was nominated as one of the best main actresses in Indonesia as well as in Tokyo.

You’re so humble . . .

We don’t know what we have inside: the movie director, one of the best in Indonesia, Garin Nugroho, we met, and he said, "Okay, I want you involved in my film".

I presume this led to modeling?

Not really, I wasn’t focused on that. Photographers just loved taking pictures of me, whatever the reasons, but songwriting was where my time went.

That was my next question; do you write all of your own material?

I composed nine of the 12 tracks on my latest album.

I write about life and our celebration from the heart, voices of the universe. So if it’s up to my capability, I’m Ulto Dita, I’ve never studied music. It always amazes me that I’ve created this, I believe there’s a higher power that gives me inspiration.

In my works as well, I believe if you feel it, they will feel it.

In my music I use five languages: ancient Javanese (Kawi), Sanskrit, Balinese, Indonesian and English.

How many albums to date?

Just one after the first album, which has been 18 years, I finally released my second album, Nyanyian Dharma.

Why so long?

Because my producers then, how to put it . . .? We weren’t on the same page (laughs), so I had to collect the energy in order to produce myself.

Do you play an instrument?

A little bit of piano and guitar, enough to write a song.

So you’re a songwriter, not a musician, so to speak?

Have you received attention from your album in other places than Bali?

Yes, a songwriter. But the amazing thing, I was rescued by the children; they loved my music, and so the parents, thanks to God. I also have fans in Japan.

Have you traveled abroad with your band?

Yes, India, America, and maybe this year to Europe, but needing a sponsor . . . difficult.

So you need that one special song to catapult you?

Yes of course, at the moment I’m able to promote on the internet – Facebook, iTunes etcetera. It helps a lot.

I’m self-produced, no big company to promote, but my friends help me a lot, like the show I just did recently ago for Japan. It was commemorating the tsunami. The name of the program, Satuhan Cinta Untuk Dunia (United Love for the World), was performed in Bentara, Buduya Bali, Kefewel. There were 100 international artists involved: a universal message of love. Performing art is about the five elements; most of the time we Balinese are just praying for mother earth, it’s not often we make a connection to the air, water, fire, so, day by day we have to realise and educate the children to realise that the five elements are inside the body, cosmos and micro-cosmos.

Coming up is the I’m An Angel event; will you be participating in that?

How do you know that! Yes, on June 16, I’ll be working with Coh Sawitri Witter, show director at Ku De Ta. We don’t know for sure who will be doing what yet.

Have you been involved with charities before this?

Many, often when I do festivals I’m always approached to do different presentations to help children as well.

What have you been branching out towards?

I have an angel who cares about me, I have nothing but love and creativity, no money, no big space where I can rehearse my band or bring artists together to bring something together. So mother (we call her Bunda) Ana Anandi – a Balinese woman who loves my activity – provides a small place, my office where I conduct affairs for the children; it’s called Bunda Semestra in Sanur.

Your philosophy?

Small steps as well as big steps begin from home.

feature

Beanbag loads and tear-gassed roads . . . it's been quite a journey for Harmony Rose, who's living a quieter life on Bali.

Images by Charles Barr.

It’s the middle of the night and I have one thing on my mind: “Nafas Ibu, nafas” (breathe mother, breathe). If any Bahasa sticks during my stay here, let it be “nafas”.

Breath is my gateway to the unknown, my communion with Balinese women giving birth, and their newly breathing babies. I am volunteering as a doula (from Ancient Greek, meaning “a woman who serves”) at Yayasan Bumi Sehat, the center of gentle birth on Bali, and my homeaway-from-home.

I need to breathe, too.

Inhale Ubud, and exhale the cold Oakland, California, winter I was in not long ago.

Although my time on Bali is, perhaps, to be short, I’m reveling in being here. I’d be lying, though, if I said I stopped thinking about the 99% still striving in Oakland.

In September 2011, the Occupy Movement was born. You’ve probably heard of it. A movement organised by many, demanding of a few, and lead by no one. Now a global phenomenon, Occupy is the code word that encapsulates thousands of grievances and incubates an awakening to change.

Prior to coming to Bali, I was occupying.

It wasn’t the lure of utopian tent camps, or the adrenaline rush of protesting, or the 24-hour free kitchen that called me to the movement.

Even the consensus-based general assemblies (true democracy) I can’t claim to be my motivation-these were bonuses that fueled a smoldering fire.

I’ve seen the injustice of banks; I know about unemployment and

Change.

feature

un-healthcare; I understand the fear of old age; I empathise with debt asphyxiation. But still, it’s not my knowing that carried me to the streets — it was my family.

All three of my mother’s sisters’ properties were foreclosed on, without an option to refinance; my college-educated father scours wanted ads — a threeyear project —still unemployed, and losing hope. My folks should be budgeting for their retirement, instead they’re budgeting food stamps – a first for both of them; and my brother looks at his student loan like some look down the barrel of a gun.

I could flirt with the notion that my family made mistakes . . . but they didn’t, really, no more than anyone else caught up in the chaos created by corrupt banking practices, the verisimilitude of viral investment brokers . . . and catastrophic policy decisions of American conservatives.

My family is ordinary, brilliant, and they inspired me to Occupy. I wanted to defend them, shout for them, breathe for them. We’ve all had enough, and now seems an appropriate time to say so in public. We want to shift the status quo, conceive a new world, and witness a rebirth.

So I joined Oakland on October 25, 2011. I marched for change.

All went well with the march, until that evening.

By one o’clock in the morning I was running from a SWAT barricade and its "non lethal" arms cache — beanbag guns, rubber bullets, flash grenades and smoke bombs.

I felt like I was in a war zone — I was marching for peace and justice, after all—so I dodged munitions but returned to the barricade after each salvo to hold the peace.

I was lucky not to be injured.

Others were not.

One peacemaker, Iraq veteran Scott Olsen, was deliberately shot in the face with a beanbag load by an officer. Scott stayed in the hospital with a fractured skull and brain hemorrhage for more than a month.

Non-lethal force . . .

During the following weeks Oakland was all the rage in the movement—celebrities showed up to our assemblies; we were on all the major news channels; other Occupy sites wanted to know Oakland’s next plan of action; and a common word around camp was "momentum".

Proud and spirited, Oakland kept up the

42

momentum.

And so I rallied until I couldn’t — another revelation.

I waited.

I was apprehensive about leaving my city during such a tumultuous time —abandoning camp. "G" for guilty scored into my backpack. Yet between the daytime dreams and the sleepless nights, I was called . . . to Bali.

I now know why.

In all the passion I hold for social justice, Bali and its birth-work reminded me to breathe.

And to breathe slowly.

Instead of marching down the streets of good ol’ Oak-town in protest I now walk slowly in procession through Nyuh Kuning on my way to temple. The joker in me wants to chant: "Whose temple? Our temple."

But I know that’s silly so I keep quiet, listening to the gamelan and my breath.

I fantasise about being a women’s health advocate and gentle-birth-worker, and when I compare it to my dreams of revolution it’s hard to find the contrast. Both require love, stamina, intelligence, expertise, little sleep, and breath . . . so much breath.

Breath is the core.

Breath to shout in the streets.

Breath heard coming from a new babe’s lips.

Breath to say what is needed for positive change.

Breath to focus on during contractions.

Breath to hold while running from tear gas.

Breath to cry between while witnessing a mother’s first look at her child.

Since being at Bumi, I’ve learned to let go of fighting for change. I would rather invest my energy in being gentle. Shouting and making demands serves its purpose but so does holding the silence so a mother can hear herself, and her baby’s first breath, before my own.

I also fantasise about corrupt politicians and SWAT police witnessing gentle birth —imagining their faces upon seeing the love and softness in the room. I envision the breath leaving them, replaced by a speechless wonder.

I think about what will come of the people born gently . . . who knows where their breath will take them?

I like to imagine they’ll find their way to places that create a just and gentle world.

It's a gas, gas, gas.

Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers.

In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986.

Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service.

“We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.

theLIST

Apr/May/June 2012

The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.

Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Victor Mason was last seen on a pub crawl in north London. His column 'Those Were The Days' does not appear in this issue.

Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie.

the list

Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...

Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.

A

The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region.

ADVENTURE Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur.

Tel: 0361-721480.

Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com.

Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife).

ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak).

An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates.

Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan.

Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil.

Bali Bird Walks Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills.

Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33.

Tel: 0361-287059.

ANTIQUES

Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.

Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10.

Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X. Tel: 0361-973113.

www.balisobek.com Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali.

ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS 3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan.

Tel: 0813 3874 5650.

The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations.

the list

Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery.

Jl. Bisma 102.

Tel: 0361-977104.

Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists.

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays.

Map Ref: X.10 Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original

studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan.

Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures.

Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1.

Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection.

Part of the Museum Rudana art empire.

Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-978216.

With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls.

Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng.

Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 .

Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the

bungalow complex opened by the artist.

Infinity Gallery Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 www.liquid-art-gallery.com Infinity Gallery displays "Liquid Art", which is ultra high-speed photography of fluids in motion. The timefreezing method allows you to see hidden wonders of the natural world. Think of it as a visual spa, in a modern and elegant gallery setting. Open daily from 9am to 10pm. Free entry.

Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer.

It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art.

Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery.

Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road.

Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the

greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays.

Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays.

Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds.

Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm.

Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting.

the list

BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees.

Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.com Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors.

Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod.

Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community.

Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists.

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can

buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery.

Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”.

Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men.

Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh.

Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.com Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with

the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas.

TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86.

Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses.

Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building.

Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit.

W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3.

Tel: 0361-977978. pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to

raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.

B BARS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is modAustralian inspired – that is, fresh local organic produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an openplan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – their Virgin Wheatgrass Mojito has to be the best pick-me-up of all time - it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day.

Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832 Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine.

Definitely one of our favourite

secret hangouts. Literary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month.

Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Set on a ravine of the Oos River this new trendy threetiered cafe cum wine bar cum restaurant is set to rock its riverside terraces. Their Divine Wine Cellar stocks Old and New World wines and hosts Divine Hour from 5-7pm every day with a glasses of wine starting from 50++.

There is a cute bites menu as well as a full on a la carte. A private dining room and bottle shop complete this all-in-one venue of Ubudosity!

Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one.

Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng.

Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at Han Snel

all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left.

Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ Map Ref. If you don’t actually stay in this award-winning hotel you must pop into Jati

Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight.

One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer.

Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975354.

Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in

Gallery a distinctly convivial atmosphere...it's easy to imagine the late artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling

Lounge for tropical cocktails and light snacks. Its curved architectural teak mastery enhances the view of the Ayung River gorge and

the tropical forest on the opposing valley. Excellent High Tea or light snack house specialties accompanied by fruit juices or cocktails in the late afternoon-light make for a very special moment.

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya.

Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic recently refurbished to combine air con comfort and outdoor pavilion seating, that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm.

Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance.

the list

CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210-day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum.

Tel: 0361-977547.

Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille.

Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).

Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan. Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot. com When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks.

Terazzo Jl. Suweta.

Tel: 0361-978941.

A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere.

Warung Kopi @Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com Views of rice paddy fields and landscaped gardens over a cup of coffee, a delicious brownie and a good book.

There is nothing better. One of Ubud's best cafe hangouts.

WiFi is supplied - if you must, but we suggest getting off your Faceboook and enjoying the breezes and the view or one of the many workshops or courses on offer.

BOOK SHOPS Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here.

Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond.

Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here.

Boutiques Anjaly Jl. Dewi Sita.

Tel: 0361-971599 www.anjalybali.com Map Ref. M.9 Born out of gratitude, inspired by yoga and a tribute to being green, Anjaly (Sanskrit for thankfulness) is a forwardthinking clothing brand dedicated to freedom.

turiscondition If you take a frank look around you at the state of the world today – with its vicious little wars, the everthickening grime on the planet, the incomprehensibility of the world’s finances, the smirk on the faces of the powerful – you might be plunged into despair.

Then if you look at your own life and notice your ever-thickening waist, the grime on your soul, the list of goals you are ever less likely to accomplish, your self-defeating appetites, the despair may double. And if you have been recently laid off or divorced or bereaved, you may feel that life has spit you out and then spit on you for good measure.

If all this is true of you, and you happen to be sensitive as well, you might be especially susceptible to the allure of a cute tropical island with an organically-grown religion and spa facilities.

Shimmer Bali is famous for its religion. The polite term is ‘culture’ but the reality is that it’s Bali’s religion that accounts for its arts and architecture and social structure and poetry and even its parades. The more austere (or skimpy) your own religious background, the more you will be amazed and delighted by the explosion of music and fragrance and spectacle of Bali’s own sort of Hinduism, its combination of gaiety and violence, its fearlessness in the face of death, and the way all members of society – old people, toddlers, even teenagers – participate in its gorgeously conspicuous rituals. Surrounded by all this, you may begin to feel the shimmer of the invisible world and want to get to know it better.

OW OM OH by Diana Darling.

Luckily for you, Bali is also terrifically welcoming. The Balinese people are proud of their culture and happy to show it to you, demonstrate how it works, and even sell you bits of it. You will find, especially if you stay in Ubud, that your Balinese hosts are eager to help you find your way into their superior existence. If you like, they will teach you how to dance, dress, paint, carve, and play music as they do, even pray as they do. This has been so ever since tourists started coming to Bali about a hundred years ago. But recently there is the catchphrase ‘spiritual tourism’ on everyone’s lips – ‘everyone’ meaning especially government officials and vendors of tourism.

Obviously Spiritual tourism seems like the obvious next thing after cultural tourism, marine tourism, adventure tourism, and eco-agro tourism. And with its temples, dance performances, heavy ritual schedule, and hospitable guides, Bali is already eminently fitted out for spiritual tourism. It even has a venerable soubriquet on hand, “island of the gods”. All this makes it a natural place to develop spiritual tourism products imported from other cultures.

The world-wide interest in healing arts and especially in yoga has a strong foothold in Bali, with its epicentre at the Yoga Barn in Ubud. The BaliSpirit website displays a virtual university of courses for healing body, mind and spirit. The annual BaliSpirit Festival, now in its fifth year, presents programmes of yoga, world music, art installations, and workshops in healing practices such as Watsu Water Dance and Tama-Do Sound Therapy.

What is new is the purposefulness with which religious experience is being promoted by Balinese, as a part of a tourism package.

Part of this is a new sophistication among Balinese promoters of tourism in regard to marketing. Several seminars on spiritual tourism have been held and more are scheduled. There is discussion of spiritual tourism in the Balinese press.

The website of the government of the Province of Bali has a page devoted to spiritual tourism, listing gurus and centres one might visit. At least one locally developed venue is marketed explicitly as ‘spiritual tourism’. It offers yoga, meditation, temple visits, instruction from Balinese spiritual leaders and a chance to help with the work in the rice fields – and it dangles the possibility that guests might even go into trance.

Even so …

If you really want to experience Balinese religion, however, you might have to die and be re-born as a Balinese.

Only then would you be able to put aside your aching soul and devote yourself to the demands of the world around you. Whenever someone in your family or neighbourhood held a wedding or a baby ceremony or a toothfiling or a body washing, whenever your community was getting ready for a temple festival or a cremation or a procession to the sea, you’d have to skip your yoga class and your meditation, put on your temple clothes and go help out for as long as everyone expected you to.

This would be hard to sell.

the list

DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance.

Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in.

Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18 Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion.

Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik

shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles.

BOTANIC GARDENS Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur.

Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.

Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja.

Tel: 0361-7463389. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural

forest on a vast six hectare property.

C

cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.

CAVIAR & CHAMPAGNE

COOKING CLASSES

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.

Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan.

Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields.

The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day.

COCKFIGHTING Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A

the list

Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1.

Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food.

Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food.

Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture.

Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine.

The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties.

Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s

most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow.

Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education.

the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry

Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan.

Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on

Indigo Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories.

Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.6 Exquisite antiques and local creative traditions. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors.

Clinics Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm.

CRAFTS

Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors.

and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent addition is a women's medical spa offering ozone treatments, basic pre-med check ups and a variety of feminine hygiene treatments.

Sayan Square Jl. Penestanan, Sayan.

Tel: 081236 806100.

A one-stop shop where you can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule.

the list

OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later.

No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.

Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B. Tel: 0361-970992.

Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.

D

DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty.

A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.

E ECO Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armaresort.com This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort,

join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung...and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape.

The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal.

Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org.

A powerful community jointventure school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee.

Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8.

Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of

jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.

F FESTIVALS Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event.

Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival.com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the

arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.

G GLASS Horizon Glassworks Jl. Monkey Forest Coffee Silver Shopping Arcade Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: R.5/F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing.

“There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an

the list

alchemy in this process.� Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge on Jl. Raya Kengetan and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

HEALTH Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Taking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha.

Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan.

Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of

GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).

Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-973366. www.alamidahbali.com Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-974079. www.baliswasti.com Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-975017.

H

Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod.

Tel: 0361-973381.

Handicrafts Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Art Center Jl. Kajeng 24.

Tel: 0361-972187 www.threadsoflife.com While Threads of Life Gallery mostly displays and sells natural dyed traditional textiles made by the 1200 weavers on the 11 islands that Threads of Life works with, the gallery also features a variety of fine crafts made by traditional artisans, including fine traditional basketry, pottery along with homewares such as pillows and tablerunners, and wearable art.

Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com

HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com

Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.com Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high quality standard for energetic treatments.

procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA. Treatments exclusively for women are also now part of the programme.

HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village.

Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa.

Tel: 0363-41011. www.alilahotels.com One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. All rooms face the ocean with clear views across the straits to Nusa

the list

NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.

Penida. Alila Manggis is famed for its cooking school specialising in Eastern Balinese cuisine.

Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan.

Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches along the ridge of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool villas and four valley villas offer superb one-up-manship for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer and a fabulous pavilion restaurant complete this one of a kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues in Ubud.

Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan.

Tel: 0361-894 6388. www.alilahotels.com/soori Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea

and paddy fields, while still maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas.

Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour in-villa dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alila’s signature bath amenities.

Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armaresort.com ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape.

Amandari Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat.

Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168.

Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com

Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com

Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities.

Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com Bidadari Private Villas & Retreat Jl. Raya Kelabang Moding Tel: 0361-9000402 www.bidadarivillasubudbali. com Map Ref. G.8 In under one year, Bidadari Private Villas and Retreat, set in the outlying lushness of Ubud, has already garnered no less than 11 ‘excellents’ from Tripadvisor.

Sophisticated seclusion on a magical ravine, their five private villas offer sumptuous and distinctive décor and expansive living areas.

Panoramic views look out over Nature and are enhanced with horizon-edge pools. The bedrooms and bathrooms are fit for angels no less, as is the spa and meditation area. Fully staffed and cuisined, you will probably find that when it is

the list

yes, an award winning spa it is Everybody’s Everything. A Royal villa, Riverview villas and a Riverfront villa balance the 18 suites, which make up the main body of the hotel.

Luscious gardens, artfully designed public spaces all overlook the rushing waters of the famous Ayung River.

time to come down from the clouds, a little bit of you will always stay behind.

Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh.

Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com.

Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma.

Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com.

The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a five-minute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery.

Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road.

Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road.

Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.

Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Cinta Inn has opened behind

Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com

central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill.

Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn.

COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan.

Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz Map Ref. A.3 An Estate like no other.

This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s

best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como.

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other.

Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge.

Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ sayan/ Map Ref: D.3 Over the past decade the Conde Nast Travel award has consistently been given to this stylish riverside resort. No wonder. With its 42 villas, 18 suites, two restaurants and

Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan.

Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics.

Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley.

Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road.

Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest Road.

Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi.

Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan.

Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa

the list

is something to write home about.

Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma.

Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and coconut groves.

Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property.

Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel.

Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is

usually fully booked.

Komaneka at Rasa Sayang Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975491 www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Another oasis in the heart of Ubud, this resort is dedicated to giving a luxurious and contemporary lifestyle. Thirty spacious, deluxe rooms and two roof-top garden villas allow travelers to savour the tranquility and breathtaking beauty of Ubud. A fine dining

restaurant, infinity edge swimming pool and lobby lounge bar puts Rasa Sayang at the top of many-a-list.

Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years.

Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy

in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud.

Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence.

Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com Kumara Sakti Hotel and Spa Jl. Suweta Tel: 0361 972685

www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 This yoga boutique retreat offers outstanding Yoga instruction and excellent calming Ayurvedic treatments. Luscious gardens surround ten rooms, two swimming pools and yoga pavilion. Together they overlook padi fields and a river gorge. Stunningly peaceful, there is little doubt as to why this resort has had so many complimentary Tripadvisor

recommendations.

Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys.

It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants).

Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan.

Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com

the list

Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan.

Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back!

Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com Puri Tupai Private Garden Villa Jl. Raya Anak Agung Gede Rai, Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh.

Tel: 0361-981655 www.puri-tupai.com Chef, housekeeper, 24 hour security guards, 2 watchdogs, 6 squirrels, 83 koi and two turtles. Puri Tupai is heaven on earth with its two traditional joglos, four bedrooms, 25 metre pool, grass tennis court, sculpture garden and the mod cons of satellite TV and Internet connection. So fabulous you won't want leave the property! Excellent for families, excellent for friends.

Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan

Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak.

Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property.

Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan.

Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal.

Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan.

Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan.

Tel: 0361-973610 www.thesamayabali.com A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chicest valley, Sayan.

Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta.

Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com

Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it.

Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-977950.

Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.com Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool.

Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng.

Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinesestyle accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists.

The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’.

The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro.

Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime.

The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan.

Tel: 0361-972616.

Map Ref: D3 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and

the list

romantic. (See Restaurants) The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi.

Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An popular addition to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area.

Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan.

Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com

Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com.

Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as has merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style.

Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35.

Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments.

Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity.

One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing.

Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan.

Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Lodtunduh.

Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com

Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl

Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-976084. www.gemalabalisilver.com

Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan.

Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay.

Kapal Laut Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-972470 www.kapal-laut.com Map Ref: I.6 With 'simplicity, style and design' as their mantra Kapal Laut has opened their eighth shop in Bali. Elegant and affordable, Kapal Laut designs jewelry and accessories in silver and stainless steel and mixes it up with horn, rubber, pearls, shells amd beads.

Definitely a place to shop for gifts!

Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta.

Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group.

Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan.

Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience.

Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.

J JEWELRY Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3.

Tel: 0361- 971430.

Map ref: K.10 www.galaxyanjewels.com The Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons.

Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.com Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes.

Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-978513. www.yanvan.com Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)!

K

the list

KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’.

KIDS

Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya.

Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Their inviting, intimate venue is perfect

tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm). The little sister of Jazz Café, the music is a treat, with great playlists to soothe the soul and live gigs on Mondays with Bali’s own Blues Brothers and Thursday nights Acoustic Jam Session - from 8 to 11pm.

Open all day, every day. Free Wifi 9am to 6pm.

ODALAN

P

L Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails.

O A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.

See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro.

ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes.

Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.

LIVE JAZZ

To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.

for birthdays, anniversaries, wedding parties and other special events. Great bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music from 7.30 to 10.30pm every night (except Sundays and Mondays).

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-970928.

Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West

M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.

N

NGABEN

PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways.

Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms.

In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung

the list

is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there.

It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork.

Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family.

Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace.

PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances.

PRIVATE DINING Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2

PROPERTY

PHOTOGRAPHY

Desa Kerasan Tel. 0361-9000566 www.desakerasan.com The opportunity of a lifetime should you wish to buy in Ubud is the upcoming Desa Kerasan. A six home community minutes away from the town centre has been created to offer elegant living with a focus on being green. Priced at under $300k.

Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5.

Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com

Ubud Property

Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue).

Tel: 0361-970888. www.ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area.

The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? Even Branson has recently bought his plot in Paradise.

Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com

R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-gingerlime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands

comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded.

Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna is done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes an excellent virgin wheat grass mojito - though we are sure they will be happy to add a shot of vodka if needed!

Ayung Terrace Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Sayan Tel. 0361-977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map Ref. Whether it’s a light luncheon of fantastic sandwiches, Asian noodles, satays and salads or a gourmand dinner, of say a myriad of Asian-inspired dishes or even steaks and lobsters perfectly cooked on a lava-rock grill, then the view, whilst stunning and romantic, in fact of picture postcard excellence, will not impede the amazing flavours that come from the Four Seasons cuisines. Like with all things of the Four Seasons caliber each dish is a morsel of pure magic from the Island of the gods.

the list

Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal.

Tel: 0361-975489. www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating.

Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-975656 www.tepisawahvillas.com Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm.

Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan.

Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. The menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable.

Betelnut Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref. I.6 Pleasant, airy conservatory filled with palm trees and tressle tables. We love the noodles, satays and salads.

Keep your eye open for docofilm nights and live music performances on their indoor stage. Open for lunch, dinner and of course cocktails. Right ooposite the Puri Lukisan Museum, on the main street.

Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Nicolas Lazzaroni heads up a team of 11 in his kitchen.

Lunch menu has delicate salads, pasta dishes and light midday morsels. Dinner is a rather grander affair; Seared Scallops; Tiger Prawn Tempura; Red Pepper Crusted Chicken; Roast Pumpkin Rotolo and the best Filet Mignon this side of a number of bridges! Excellent wine list, wine cellar, a private dining roomand a lovely river view from the open-air terraces.

Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1.

Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks

- and we mean excellent tenderloin with a choice of 6 luscious sauces - frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables.

Both Leefe and Hoefgaarden (famous brands of Belgium beer) are now available for those mid-day heated moments. Lunch is salads, snacks and excellent Indonesian specialities.

Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati.

Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook.

CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi.

Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H.15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley.

Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub.

Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-978631. www.coffeecopper.com A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. d'Bali Bistro Sayan Square Food Court.

Baliwood Resort.

Tel. 0361-975527 Indo-Asian cuisine with crispy duck and ribs at the fore. This sports cafe cum bistro also offers WiFi, and a big screen TV. If you are into fried ice cream look no further!

Cherry Blossom Sayan Square Food Court.

Baliwood Resort.

Tel. 0361-975527 Classic dim sum, hangoverperfect noodles, live sea food and lip- smacking crispy pork, organic and vegetarian dishes Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan.

Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night.

the list

GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan.

Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious.

The hand-crafted menu is based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food.

It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glassaccented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients.

Located on a private estate, bookings are essential!

Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72.

Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal.

Indochine Jl. Penestanan, Sayan.

Tel. 0361-972616 www.themansion.com Map Ref. K1 Indochine offers and elegant and intimate atmosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel and Spa. Serving

Vietnamese and French cuisine with amodern twist on light and spicy flavours from Vietnam, Indochine proves once again that is os possible to have world class fine dining in the heart of a rural paradise.

The wine list is well chosen and matched exquisitely to the cuisine.

Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills.

With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years.

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya.

Tel: 0361-976594.

Map Ref: M.12 Cool jazz at arguably Ubud's hottest nightspot. The first live jazz venue of the island, with a lively and popular restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and a variety of salads, healthy fare, excellent kebabs and fresh juices. Choose from airconditioned bliss inside or traditional pavilion seating in the garden. Live music nightly except Mondays.

Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B.

Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm.

Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www.armaresort.com This pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm.

Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita.

Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru.

Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting.

Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan.

Tel 0361-973134.

Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere.

Kebun Jl. Hanoman no. 44A, Padang Tegal.

Telp: 0361-973361. www.kebunbistro.com Map Ref. N.9 France's most well-known region, Provence, comes to Bali at Kebun. This bijoux eatery complete with patio, comes with light meals, freshly baked savouries and of course wine!!

Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 The Uma cuisine team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king.

Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus.

Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime.

Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan.Telp: 0361-975742, 976659 www. kokokan.com Elegant dining in the old-

the list

world atmosphere of Kokokan Club's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil Kokokan Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens.

www.balispirit.com Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also!

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-970928.

Map Ref: P.7

Map Ref: K.17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki

Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888.

An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only.

Bookings essential.

Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975249.

Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake

with food tastes that are subtle and delicate.

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.

Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment.

A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class.

Reservations essential.

Murni’s Warung Campuhan.

Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years.

Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-977565.

Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait.

A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria.

The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday,

Little K Jl. Pengosekan Tel: 0361-970992.

Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888.

counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian.

Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-970013.

Map Ref: B.4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant

Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-977547.

Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini.

Some claim the latter are

the list

among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic).

Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities.

Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine.

Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963.

Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer.

Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-978520.

Eat in, take away or delivery!

Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.com Map ref: U.8 Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus.

Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud.

Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings.

Ryoshi Jl. Raya Ubud.

Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/ siam-sally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud.

Terazzo Jl. Suweta.

Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com

The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-978189.

Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse.

Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama.

Tel: 8686705 Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others.

Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan.

Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor!

West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-978363.

RetreatS

Tel: 0361-972192.

Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating.

Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Neil Harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha.

Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”.

Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-975554.

Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering.

Kumara Yoga & Spa Retreats Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 Escape the world and join ONEWORLD retreats at Kumara Sakti. Daily meditation, soft yoga and fabulous spa treatments make this one of the best five days of your life! Non-hotel guests also welcome.

S

the list

SPAS Spa Bali Botanica Day Spa Jl Raya Sanggingan Tel. 0361 976739 Map Ref. A.4 www.balibotanica.com What could be more luxurious than a whole day spent at the spa? Bali Botanica offers a two and a half Chakra Dhara massage. This chakra enhancing treatment is followed by a healthy dejeuner and the fabulous, youthenhancing Herbal Botanic Facial. Next the Herbal Body Scrub exfoliates and polishes the skin followed by the Therapeutic Bath and of course our last stop on this day trip is a Creme Bath for the hair. Head to toe your body’s best day out!

and Indian techniques to one of the world’s most popular relaxation practices. Hot river stones “smoothed by centuries of rushing waters of the Ayung River” which this spa overlooks, are used in this most popular of treatments.

Up next is ‘Champi’, an Indian head, neck and shoulder massage, including earlobes, that almost sends one to Nirwana. The massages are like anything done with a Four Seasons touch, professional, exquisite and quite extraordinary. For a unique ‘privacy

through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone!

Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963.

Map Ref: A.2 Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total

Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod.

Tel: 0361-979356.

Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236.

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Bookings essential.

SPA Four Seasons Resort Bali Sayan Ridge Tel. 0361 977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map Ref. D.3 Simply named “SPA”, this riverside corporal and spiritual haven applies ancient Balinese, Javanese, Ayurvedic

meets luxury’ memory book into one of the three elegant spa villas.

KUSH Jl Hanoman.

Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti,

concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara.

When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime...

Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma.

Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men.

Skin Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24.

Tel: 0361 975 615 www.ubudskinorganic.com Petite, authentic skin spa on Goutama, Ubud's up-andcoming 'chic street'.

Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35.

Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com

the list

.Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan.

Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com Ubud's most amazing day spa - without a doubt!

Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan.

Telp: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering.

Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.

Indonesian archipelago.

Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.

U UDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high

probably the oldest religious text in the world.

W WALKING Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops.

Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the

T TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com.

Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago.

Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24.

Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the

Balinese.

V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is

roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one.

Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook.

If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing.

WEDDINGS Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro.

Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan.

Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment.

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-972448. www.uma.como.bz Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication.

Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends.

Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go.

the list

Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love!

Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka. com WILDLIFE Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan.

Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar.

Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar.

Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro.

Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com

WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi Cultural Workshop Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-975742. www.armamuseum.com Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud.

Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud.

Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman.

Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud.

Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com

Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571.

Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42.

Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan.

Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow.com Kumara Retreat Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 “This retreat was everything I hoped for…”, “lovely Bali hide-away for contemplation, yoga…” and the positive comments continue. Kumara has been hosting some of the most successful yoga retreats in Ubud for a few years now and reaping some of the most complimentary write-ups on TripAdvisor. So rather than us tell you about it, we suggest looking up this five-star rated retreat on the big TA and reading about it for yourself.

The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com

Map Ref: O.10 Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud.

Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali.

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud.

Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz

the list

Performance Schedules

SUNDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7

MONDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo

7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00

I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –

TUESDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7

WEDNESDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana

Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30

I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7

the list

Performance Schedules

THURSDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30

I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10

FRIDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women's Gamelan

Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30

I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7

SATURDAYS

VENUE

PM

MAP REF.

Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00

I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10

EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

advertisers' directory

HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361 - 971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10 Botanica Tel: 0361 - 976739 www.balibotanica.com The List Bud Map H.5 HOTEL Alila Ubud Tel: 0361- 975963 www.alilahotels.com P. 1 Bud Map A.2 Arma Resort Tel: 0361- 976659 www.armabali.com P. 8 Bud Map W.10 Bebek Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 6 Bud Map E.6 Bidadari Private Villas Tel: 0361- 9000401 www.bidadarivillasubudbali.com P. 42 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361- 978888 www.como.bz P. 13 Bud Map A.3 Four Seasons Tel: 0361- 977577 ext 8222 www.fourseasons.com P. 7 Bud Map D.3 Maya Ubud

Tel: 0361- 977888 www.mayaubud.com P. 9 Bud Map L.18 Ubud Hanging Gardens Tel: 0361- 982700 www.ubudhanginggardens.com BC Bud Map A.2 Uma Ubud Tel: 0361-972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz P. 11 13Bud Map A.3 MEDIA The Bud Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.thebudmag.com P. 21 Ypod Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.ypodbali.com P. 87 RESTAURANT Ayung Terrace Restaurant Tel: 977 577 ex: 8222 P. 4 Bebek Tepi Sawah Rest Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 6 Bud Map E.6 Bridges Bali Tel: 0361- 970095 www.bridgesbali.com P. 3 Bud Map Ibu Rai Restaurant Tel: 0361- 973472

www.iburai.com P. 42 Bud Map K.8 Kebun Tel: 0361- 973361 P. 13 Bud Map O.9 Mozaic Tel: 0361- 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com P. 11 Bud Map B.3

SHOP Hatten Wines Tel: 0361- 767422 www.hattenwines.com P. 3 Periplus www.periplus.co.id P. 13 Bud Map C.3 Threads Of Life Tel: 0361- 972187 www.threadsoflife.com P. 7 Bud Map H.7 MISC Butterflies of Bali Victor Mason su_birdwalk@yahoo.com P. 5 Canggu Classic Tennis Tel: 844 6385 www.cangguclub.com P. 73 IAA Tel: 0361 - 736969 www.kudeta.net IBC

distribution list

NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali.

NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon.

VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud Adi’s Gallery Ubud

Amandari Resort Ubud Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Betelnut Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Esthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur

Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Kebun Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally Skin Organic Sobek Adventure Rafting

Tama Gallery Taman Hati Tegal Sari Terazo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery

THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.

to Como Shambhala, Alila & Komaneka

A B C D E F

KUPU KUPU Naka Gallery Payangan BARONG Tegalalang Kusia Gallery AMANDARI West End Cafe Minami UMA UBUD THE VICEROY BALI Biasa Cascades Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum INDUS Mozaic Warung Pulau Kelapa PITA MAHA Gaya Gallery Paul Rop p The Shop UBUD FOUR SEASONS THE MANSION BEBEK TEPI SAWAH Sayan Aesthetic RESTAURANT & VILLAS VILLA KIRANA KAYU MANIS to Fivelements to The Samaya Horizon Glassworks

KEY

THE CHEDI CLUB Sayan

Tanah Gajah

Rudana Museum Mas Tony Raka Gallery

0

.5km

1km

Art gallery

Monkey forest

Temple

Automatic teller

Museum

HOTEL/VILLA

Bridge

One way street

Restaurant/Bar

Dance theatre

Place of interest

Bar/Nightclub

Deer pen

Police station

Shop

Information

Post office

Spa/Salon

Money changer

Sports field

Misc.

1.5km

G

JL. RAYA ANDONG

UNG

ROG AND

JL. JE

SAY A)

JL. JE

I (JL . PEL IATA N)

MBAW AN

NO

HA

JL. W ANA

E RA

JL. C OK G D

JL. S

RA W ANA

UKM A (T

(MON

EBE

KEY F

JL.

ORES

AD RO

T RO AD)

MA N

JL. SUGRIW A

JL.

Bar LuGnOOTAMA a

JL. B

Boll Bat ero Res Alaman Waru to kara

JL. TIR TA TA WAR

JL. SAN DAT

WE

TA

JL. SRI W EDARI

NG

JL. SU

ISM A

N NA TA

JL. K

ES EN .P

AJE

JL

Lotus

Ubud Kaja TEGALALANG 10km To Bidadari Villas UBUD SARI Localista WARWICK IBAH TARO 16km Rio Threads of Life KINTAMANI 22km THE VICEROY BALI Bali Botanica Helmi Han H Cascades Snel Terazo Bridges Bali Art Puri Lukisan To Elephant JL. Zoo Bumbu Bali I Safari Park RAY Murni’s Ibu Oka AU Blanco Warung Taman Klod To Desa White BUD I The Round Renaissance Betelnut Kerasan Box Rendezvous Bar 6:0 Museum Casa Luna 018: Gusti Lempad’s Ary’s Warung NATURA Andong 0 Seniwati Gallery 0 Periplus J Super RESORT of Art by Women Market Galaxyan Atelier WAKA NAMYA Kupu Kupu Ubud Klod Foundation Gallery Infinity Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Gallery Market K Property Highway Pura Gunung Sari Place Exotiq Sagu Cafe Des FNPF MAYA Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Galaxyan UBUD Adi’s Art Studio & Tidur JL. COK PUTRA S. I Atelier SAR UNG Gallery GUN JL. Pura L Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe KOMANEKA SITA Sukma BISMA Skin Organic Tutmak Bali M Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Anjaly Cat Juice Bar MONKE Bali Y FO ENTRANCE N RES Milano T Alamkara Bodyworks UBUD VILLAGE Lamak Kebun HOTEL O ENTRANCE Bali Spirit Cafe Wayan Bumbu Bali II Tegun Pura Prajapati sisi + nanan Greenhouse The Kafe Cemetary KOMANEKA AT KOMANEKA P RASA SAYANG Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Tama Gallery Tebesaya Cinta UBUD INN Q Verona Padang Tegal Pura Horizon Dalem Glassworks R Agung Coffee & Dirty Duck Temple Peliatan Silver RONG G JL. SE

Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper

U

E

W

W X

Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak Laka Leke

S

Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus

Nyuh Kuning

Bamboo Foundation

Siam Sally

Cafe ARMA

JL.

V

Agung Rai Gallery

Pengosekan

N

APENGOSEKA RAY N

T

A

S

ARMA RESORT

Hanna Art Space

Kokokan

NGOSEKAN

JL. RAYA PE

Gajah Gallery

Dangin Lebak

Agung Rai Museum of Art

Y

DENPASAR 26km via MAS

UBUD VILLAGE RESORT JL. NYUH KUNING

Z

To Genta Gallery

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

To Tony Raka Gallery

To Puri Tupai

9

10

Rudana Rudana Museum

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

food

bine ve com e d n a a ing. amand tter liv e b r o joy f

ion and

nutrit

oys of the od" the b o F s to u o ri hall only ood Glo rge dining is night. ains of "F la tr s e e th th to To le in m th rkhouse fi wl of gruel for the s, o parish wo b mpanion o o n c is is there is ing of h h rg t u a e g find that th in t d le, stan Twist, a b r e m v : u li B O rd r. e o Littl us w s ter, M ose famo s the mas e th h c rs a e tt ro u p ap r and od coppe more." empty fo ant some w I , ongst the ir s e s a le rupts am "P e n o ic tale . . . ti a stern ickens’ ep D s e rl a Great con h in C omo ation at C e masters workhous ’t find any constern r will you find any no You won f its food, ayangan, e more o state in P m E o s la t a n h a b w Sham lways you will a gruel, but od. glorious fo

Amanda, Eve.

77

food

Food for life.

For most of us food is an essential fuel that we need to get us through our days.

At Como Shambhala it is a high art where nutritional and Ayurvedic science blends seamlessly with creative cuisine to provide guests with healthful helpings that do more than just power up their physiologies.

"It hadn’t been until I arrived here that I really fell in love with food," says Eve Persak, who has been Como’s resident dietician for the past five months.

"You learn all about it and I understand what it does in the body, and I’m always fascinated with that, but the experience of eating, the pleasure of eating, is what I discovered here and that’s largely courtesy of what Amanda creates on the menu."

Amanda Gale, based at Como Shambhala, is the Executive Chef for the Como group of resorts, which consists of six properties worldwide.

For seven years prior to arriving on Bali, Eve spent half her time in the intensive care wing at a children’s hospital in Los Angeles where she worked with medical staff in treating "the sickest of the sick".

"What I loved about that was that it gave me the scientific background to understand medication, every aspect of the human body, and how nutrition plays an integral role in disease management, in healing," she says.

"I understand so much about food, I can tell you what it does in your body, how it’s healthy, and how to organise it, but if you put me in the

kitchen I’m a lost puppy."

"So to come somewhere where the food is just pristine . . . the ingredients are phenomenal and the way they’re put together . . . it’s like magic.

"I don’t know how it’s put together but it’s like a party in your mouth . . . our guests love it."

Eve says many guests arrive at Como encumbered by restrictive diets and health issues that determine what they can and can’t eat but that, once there, they are able to rediscover the joy of eating.

"This is a wellness retreat so people come here for specific reasons," Amanda says.

"It might be weight loss, stress management . . . or just a general feeling of being run down (and needing a rejuvenation package) so our guests will consult Eve about that and she will take what we offer on our menu and work out what is best going to suit them."

Eve has seen people with cardiac complications, people undergoing chemotherapy, and others with various medical issues . . .

"It’s quite fabulous to be able to see the difference in how they feel, how they look . . . even people who’ve recently had gastro-intestinal surgery, who suffer great discomfort, come up to me and say, ‘I’ve just had a three-course meal and dessert and for the first time I feel light; I don’t feel heavy’."

The food philosophy at COMO is inspired by the living foods tradition, cooking methods are minimised to help maintain the nutritional

food

integrity of the original ingredients. This allows guests to benefit from the ‘life force’ of specific foods, which in their raw state are rich with enzymes, essential vitamins and minerals.

There are two restaurants on the estate – Kudus House, which caters Indonesianstyle fare; and "glow"which offers Westerninspired cuisine that incorporates a substantial raw menu.

"We emphasise the integrity of our produce by not doing too much to the ingredients of any dish, since they are of the highest quality. We take great care in sourcing produce that meet our standards."

Most of the Como kitchens’ ingredients are sourced locally.

"In Australia we have a strong tradition of cooking light and healthy food, and I grew up with that," Amanda says.

"At the end of the day, though, it’s important to put something on a plate that tastes good, that is balanced . . . it needs different levels of textures and flavours . . . and during the past twelve years of working on these types of cuisines, I’ve been able to translate and implement that.

"It’s imperative that what we offer our guests is as pure as it can possibly be so we can maximise the nutritional value – the living enzymes."

Eve says the ingredients in things like the juices and soups on the "detox"and cleansing menus are an example of how much careful thought has been put into what different sorts of people actually need in their diets.

"We see people with allergies to nuts (which can be fatal), for instance, and those who are gluten-intolerant, and we can still provide them with a four-page menu, whereas in other places they might only have one or two options,"she says.

"In addition to that side of things, working with raw food in the 'glow'menu is incredible and our guests are amazed that they can eat things like tacos and pizzas . . . we have all these dishes that you wouldn’t ordinarily associate with raw food.”

Amanda’s interest in raw food was inspired by Jill Pettijohn. Jill, at that time, was the private chef to one of the guests at Como’s Parrot Cay property.

On Jill’s website there is a quote from Vietnamese Buddhist monk, teacher, author, poet and peace activist, Tich Nhat Hanh: "In this food I see the presence of the entire universe supporting my existence." www.como.bz

Guilt free.

food

Ubud's heart beats to a different rhythm at betelnut.

In the heart of Ubud Odeck and Tara have created a place where you can sit under a tree, have a drink or three, take a break from Google and eat oodles of noodles.

While the tin boxes with their cramped cargoes crunch in the chaotic tarmac canyon, you can sit quiet with your companion . . . under vaulted roof, in a gentle breeze, you have time for ease – perhaps a satay of roasted eggplant with halomi cheese (tomato rosemary salsa . . . sorry).

Betelnut.

The menu is chock with food from the wok.

Spinach, herbs, tofu & soba noodles, with soya lemon ponzu ways . . . salad days.

Achenese seafood laksa, snapper, tofu, chili jam & aromatics . . . sounds dramatic.

And for afters crispy wontons with date, lychee and cardamom cream . . . it’s a . . . good.

Rubbish poetry aside, Betelnut in the centre of Ubud is a different kind of space. The main dining area is an outside affair in the open air where palms and plants abound, where you are removed, by water features and foliage from the traffic sound.

The menu is focused on the noodle experience – the long and short of Asian eating.

Inside is a bespoke entertainment space.

Australian folk-rock legend, Paul Kelly, played there during the 2011 Readers and Writers Festival.

The acoustics were very good (even while dining outside) and the view of the stage well thought out.

From the mezzanine level it was even better.

Odeck has added some nice touches to the design of Betelnut with the sawn-log motif playing a major part in the rustic-modernity of the aesthetic.

Betelnut is aiming at attracting a somewhat alternative audience for performances . . . something a bit different to the run-of-the-mill reggae and covers covered by the bands that frequent other Ubudian spaces.

A full bar awaits if you just want to drop in for a drink.

causes

The journey of HIV awareness among Balinese youth is arduous but vital.

The first steps have been taken, writes Skye Laphroaig.

Indonesia has one of the highest rates of HIV/AIDS-infection in the world, and Bali has one of the most alarming infection growth rates in the country, tripling over the past five years.

A vibrant and energetic celebration of yoga, dance, and live music, has taken it upon itself to awaken positive change, supporting an abundance of outreach programs. On February 20 a record-breaking crowd of well over 10,000 gathered for a gala concert on the Ubud soccer field featuring some of Indonesia’s best-known live acts, including Bali’s award winning rock group, KIS. It was the most successful open-air charity event in Ubud’s history.

The BaliSpirit Festival has raised and donated a total of US$56,000 to different charities. The founders believe education through interactive communication will help to slow the spread, reverse the stigma, and end discrimination surrounding the disease. Ayo! Kita Bicara (Let’s Talk About) HIV/AIDS, was created with a purpose to engage the local community—specifically the Balinese youth—in conversations and education about HIV & AIDS at the grassroots level through interactive “EduSpirit” workshops in local high schools.

Festival co-founder, I Madé Gunarta, has a deep grounding in the Balinese culture and his background and spiritual values makes him an ideal leader for this type of work.

The outreach programme has so far successfully reached 1,200 kids in 26 schools.

“I wanted to involve my local Ubud community through a fundraising event, combining Indonesian and international performers with a focus on supporting educational initiatives within local villages,” Madé says.

The concert opened with local band, Mr. Botax, a compelling fusion of rock, traditional Balinese percussion and kecak vocals. Supporting them were the indie rock band, Nymphea, fronted by Ubud native, Sari, and they attracted many of their massive following. During the performance, Sari touched on the importance of HIV and AIDS awareness, announcing to the large Indonesian crowd: “Mengjauhi virus, bukan orang terkena.”

(Distance yourself from the disease, not from people who suffer from it).

Madé is an Ubud native who comes from a long line of traditional craftsmen and sarcophagus makers. He is a talented, organic designer and woodworker, with a strong understanding

of Western needs, incorporating traditional building techniques with local spiritual aspects of building, including Balinese feng shui. He began helping buyers export Indonesian handicrafts in the early 1990s while running his family's painting shop, known as Tegun Galeri. After the bombing crisis, he and his wife Meghan, created BaliSpirit.com to raise the energy of Ubud with an holistic approach to business based on the Balinese belief system, maintaining a harmonious relationship between God, people and nature.

In addition to being a craftsman, Madé is actively involved in creating outreach programs for local youth in Bali, and is instrumental in many village projects. As a result he is well respected in his village Banjar and within local government circles. His latest project, features an expansion of the Yoga Barn, which he bought in 1996 to create a space dedicated entirely to yoga, movement and healing.

“I grew up in an era without electricity, a time when your grandparents were the entertainment, not video games,” he says.

“Within the Balinese culture it’s important to connect spiritually with your marriage partner, but with exposure to the internet some people are tempted to experiment. Unfortunately, they don’t have Western world awareness of safe sex practices, and in that respect Bali was not ready for HIV.” According to the latest data collected by the Gianyar Commission on AIDS, the number of people infected with HIV or AIDS has more than doubled in Gianyar alone, from 181 cases to 405 cases in one year (2010-2011).

“We are not encouraging kids to have sex, but offering another way to protect themselves in case they want to try,” Madé says.

“Kids are more computer savvy and teenagers access explicit material via their phone or download them from a computer and share with friends.”

The festival outreach team has achieved all the benchmarks it set during the first year, carrying out EduSpirit workshops in the three high-risk regencies of Badung, Buleleng, and Gianyar; offering reality-show-style videos about people affected by AIDS to emphasise the difference between rumours and truth. www.balispirit.com.

feature

Never bored.

Balinese orphans are at a better life and becoming hot surfers battle for a cleaner

being given a chance along the way are and fighters in the environment . . .

By Skye Laphroaig.

The importance of a caring adult in the life of a child cannot be overstated, yet one in five children here lacks the presence of a family member in their life.

During a surf holiday in 2007, Rodney Westerlaken discovered that surfing put a smile on the face of Balinese orphans so he created the Soul Surf Project Bali – offering disadvantaged children a chance to connect with the ocean’s natural healing energy.

The project embraces the concept of positive youth development, helping kids from eight different orphanages to grow into socially competent people – providing guidance, stability and love as they gain self-esteem from their experiences in the water.

Attending classes in environmental education is rewarded with the teaching of surfing skills from professional teachers and volunteers.

“Disadvantaged children are often disconnected from a sufficient number of adults who can guide them through difficult passages and help them make the right choices,” Rodney says.

“We believe that every child and young person must have a basic education, enabling him or her to develop skills, and connect with local communities, expanding their capacity to trust others.”

While volunteering at an orphanage on the island, Rodney noticed local children were unaware of what his ‘big white board’ was for – despite living only 15 minutes from the ocean. So he made a deal with a local surf school to give all the kids free surf lessons, followed by refreshments.

feature

At the end of the lesson he observed only 25 per cent of the drinking cups ended up in the trash, and the other 75 per cent were missing, prompting Rodney set up an awareness program, especially for this new generation, highlighting damaging effects of litter on the environment.

Rodney assures me the orphans are hooked on surfing, and get absolutely ‘stoked’ every time.

“I remember in one Christian orphanage, Jesus actually disappeared from the photo frames and was replaced by pictures of surfers from old surf magazines,” he says.

Mentors at Soul Surf Project Bali help children learn life skills through the fun of sports. These kids may never gain the tools for higher education but the program makes a difference to their lives.

Walking alongside a child, being consistent, and showingup is really important, and the confidence they gain through success in surfing crosses over into school performance and takes root.

The programme eventually provides older kids with an internship in the lucrative surf industry, either at a wooden surfboard factory, or the design department of a clothing manufacturer.

Orphans who are older than 17 can start educational work experience at the project, and will be hired to teach younger students alongside tourists, who pay a donation to experience the sport. Each child receives a certificate which is recognised worldwide, proving they are accomplished in the areas of coaching, life saving and first aid. After two years of working with the project, they receive a business start-up microcredit and can apply the skills they have acquired to their advantage.

ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT When surfers discovered Bali in the late ‘60s they spawned an industry, which still drives the island’s tourist economy. But life is not a beach for everyone, it’s estimated that as many as 10,000 children are living in orphanages across Bali and about 90 per cent of these have at least one parent still alive.

Poverty is growing on the island and parents sometimes resort to desperate measures. The biggest change in family structure came after the Bali bombings of 2002 when families who relied on tourism dollars were forced to send their kids to orphanages because of income shortfalls.

During this time, 29 per cent of Balinese workers became unemployed; children were increasingly dropping out of school and orphanages filled with ‘economic orphans’.

It’s a bleak picture for these kids from Bali and surrounding islands, but not hopeless. Within the population, some

individuals do escape the mayhem and go on to lead stable, productive lives. Dominique Duu Bella was sent to Bali from the eastern island of Sumba when he was just 13-years-old. His father died when he was a young boy, leaving his mother to care for him and six siblings.

“In Sumba, life was a constant struggle, sometimes we found it hard just to find food,” Dominique recalls.

Dominique now works with Soul Surf Project as a coach and plans to attend university when he finishes high school next year.

Rodney hopes this young Indonesian can share his knowledge of what’s causing serious harm to the environment and preserve the island for generations of surfers to come.

“As an eight-year-old, I started an initiative to teach other kids about the environment and organized street clean-ups. I began saving birds fallen from their nests and fed them during wintertime,” Rodney says.

“It must have been around that time that I learned how to love others and respect every species on earth. Kids are the new generation – when I can leave my footprint on the earth by teaching them my knowledge, I’m receiving the biggest gift of my life.”

Students at the project, also perform cleanups, where they are warned not to go into bushes and only pick up trash from the beach. When they find a syringe they must not touch it, and staff will make sure the syringe is taken away and disposed of safely.

Project manager, Gede Heri Sutawan, is an experienced local surfer and has built up team of instructors dedicated to help the youngsters take their first waves every weekend.

The waves at Double Six beach are a good start for tourists and their families wishing to surf in a relaxed, happy environment. The beach break has some pretty nasty pollution, but the waves are good and these kids rip! Not only are they fearless surfers, they have a fun attitude in the water. I was impressed to see many of the students bringing trash from the ocean to the shore while they were surfing.

The orphans are truly wonderful – little people who want to escape poverty and enjoy life. You can help by donating money via the website, booking surf lessons or buying surf products at the Eco Surf shop on Jalan Nakula, Legian. The newly opened nonprofit shop sells leashes from recycled plastic, wax combs from sustainably grown bamboo, eco-friendly wax (without petroleum), shoes and flip-flops made from recycled materials and many more products. All profit from sales at the shop will be used for soul surf project Bali’s program. www.soulsurfprojectbali.com

andrew hall gets high in K.L.

This story begins as I sit on the 23rd floor of a condominium complex in Mont Kiara, Kuala Lumur.

It’s nice up here.

I can see the Twin Towers. I can see traffic progressing in an orderly fashion towards the CBD – the roads are very good; the road users for the most part polite and tolerant (except for the Porsche driver who, on purpose, started “drifting” his expensive piece of yellow kit in front of my taxi from the airport at around 150kmh in the rain . . . which I thought a bit stupid).

I can see the 43-storey apartment block just across the way, with its people watering their plants and hanging out washing on their balconies.

I suffer somewhat from a fear of heights and have an odd feeling in my feet – as if they’ve already gone over the edge; warning the rest of me that I will soon follow.

My mate, Dick, owns this plush penthouse that is currently home to four burly blokes; three Brits and me. Dick is into Vipassana meditation, yoga, and travelling. Errol is a life coach who met Dick at a Vipassana retreat. And our fourth housemate we’ll just call Coach because he is a well-known soccer (some call it football but not I my friends) coach in South East Asia.

We all have at least one thing in common: a long-standing association with Bali. And I’m the only one who really wants to return there for any length of time.

Coach, who hails from northern England puts it this way (and I’ve not yet tried to capture an accent in writing but I’ll give it a go here; read “oo” as in book, and project your voice through your nose): The bit at the end of that sentence is not an unhappy face, it’s a bracket closure followed by a colon . . .

“Baalay, it’s no’ oop t’ mooch is it? I got knocked off for a lo’ a moonay in Baalay.”

It’s not that Coach isn’t a good bloke – he certainly is – but he trends to the negative in his outlook on things, except when it comes to putting a soccer team together which he’s pretty good at.

Law of attraction.

I’m not talking about the tactics we deploy to get ourselves laid here. No, it’s the way we project our energies, our thoughts, and what happens to us on a day-to-day basis. Our karma, if you like.

An excerpt from Drew Heriot’s film The Secret puts it this way: “Whatever it is you are feeling is a perfect reflection of

what is in the process of becoming.”

So beware!

Think more than twice about that financial “investment” on the Island of the Gods because the Law of Attraction is a multidirectional conduit.

Dick and I ran an export business on Bali and Java for a decade or so in the 2000s until certain Americans decided to crash their economy. He speaks machine-gun Bahasa and quite a bit of Balinese. He had a nice house in Nusa Dua but moved to KL so his son could get a high school education that didn’t require the lopping of a limb (that would also prepare him for the next educational level/s). The public transport system in KL is tickety-boo – not requiring endless parental driving hours to get your kid to school and back in safety. After living on Bali for 15-plus years he says it just got a bit “old”. A bit tiresome.

Albeit that KL is a large metropolis everything seems to work. And you won’t find better food on the planet – for which, also, you don’t have to sacrifice a perfectly useful anatomical appendage. You can get a pint of draught Guinness! A decent bottle of wine isn’t subject to extortionate pricing policies.

For me, however, there’s something about living in the sky that isn’t quite right. I always have a fantastic time in KL – except for the miserable time I had on the snooker table . . . played like a complete egg. We did a lot of laughing, the four of us. And that’s a good thing.

Law of Attraction.

But I like my feet on the ground – and when I walk into my garden here that overlooks a small river valley and rice fields, and watch the squirrels chasing each other through the trees, and the other fauna doing its thing, I get a sense of peace that I don’t think I could find anywhere else.

On the day I was leaving KL, another of our mates turned up – Curt, who was the first bulé to earn a degree in Indonesian literature from Bali’s Udayana University. Owning a property in the southland of the island, he reckons Klungkung would be the next move for him if he was to move – far enough away from rampant development (for a while, anyway) to capture the essence that all of us remember so vividly.

As for Errol: I just learnt that he’s doing a lengthy retreat here, so the power of Bali to attract even the most reticent of people still may hold sway.

Hi Errol!