The Bud #14 by The Bud & KUBAN Magazine

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali

Volume 14 - OCT/NOV/DEC 2012

uwrf wianta pot heads speak easy the dark side poetry slam

IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â&#x201A;Ź3.50

Volume Fourteen OCT/NOV/DEC 2012

The Bud Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa Indri Raranta Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri Teuku Melody Super Stu Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher P.T. Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Cover: The darker side of Ubud's spirtuality.

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Out of the box We're In This Together Front up It's New. It's Noted legacies Waving Or Drowning FEATURE The Dark Side profile Made Wianta INTERVIEW Butet Manurung - Dignity INTERVIEW Luka Lesson - Slammin' the list Guidezine goodness deep trivia Cloth

ART - GO GAYA Doing Pot Food Hanging Out runaways Farewell Buddy

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See ya mate.

Spinning it.

Hello to one and all. We here at The Bud sincerely hope we are all around to talk again after December 21st – the date that some seem to think we are, as is said in some circles, "for it". Don’t worry, we’re sure everything will work out okay . . . In the meantime we’ve got things to do, people to see, and stories to tell. Within you will find stories about two empowered and empowering younger people – Indonesia’s Butet Manurung and Australia’s Luka Lesson – who are involved, in their own special ways, in coming to grips with the problems faced by the marginalised, disenfranchised, indigenous peoples of their respective countries. The plight of indigenous people throughout the world is often conveniently swept under a carpet of elitist bureaucratic chimera, political game-playing and bland complacency on behalf of those who consider the whole issue to be firmly placed in the "too hard" basket. Not so with Luka and Butet who are notable guests at Ubud’s Writers and Readers Festival. It’s not often you get one of Indonesia’s premier artists to participate in acts of bondage but that’s exactly what happened when our ninja photographer visited Madé Wianta. And our intrepid Rob Wolf gets the word on art from Madé’s unique perspective.

Speaking of the Wolfman . . . get his take on the darker side of spiritual tourism. In a prodigious piece of prose he gets down and dirty with myths and legends, and hyperbolical hurdy-gurdies, that can often be mistaken for all that is truth and light. Be enlightened. We do a bit of pot with a couple of clay-meisters who are making beautiful things at Ubud’s Gaya Ceramics workshop. Young, fresh, enthusiastic, and from out of town, Gyan and Jia Wen walk us through the making of a kiln, lend meaning to the making of ceramics, and give us the good oil on an Ubud looked at with fresh eyes. Bushaka! Diana Darling gives us a lesson on the Balinese language and the efforts that are being made to preserve it – the arcane meets the present, and looks towards a bright future for the cornerstone of any cultural moiety. On a sad note we farewell an old friend who left the building way too soon. Brian Aldinger of Naughty Nuri’s fame reminds us to live our lives to the fullest every day because, as he would have put it: "Buddy! there’s nothing down there . . ." Moving away from the minor-third to the major-lift, we visit Ubud Hanging Gardens’ Beduur restaurant for some banter and food with the renowned Chef Lek . . . lekker. It’s all happening . . . enjoy, and peace be with you.

PAUL ROPP Paul Ropp creates the most intense and immense array of colourful designs to hit the streets of Asia and the rest of the world. Forever moving forward, Ropp continues to amaze customers by expanding the boundaries of imagination while staying true to his timeless designs. Ropp is a stalwart of the fashion scene in Bali, where his trademark bright colors and use of light materials are immediately identifiable. He spends most of his time in the factory, personally overlooking the production of his creations. But when he’s enjoying some down-time from the business he can be found (or not) sailing around the Indonesian islands. The ocean gives him the inspiration for his blues; the rice fields enthuses his greens; the sand arouses his browns; the sunset provokes his reds. The creation of fashionable art in the form of men’s and women’s clothing, bags, shoes, belts, scarfs, jewellery, hair accessories, hats and various home accessories – such as wall-hangings, bed covers, rugs, cushions, chairs and couches – provides a dazzling range to titillate the most discerning shopper. All accessories are produced by hand, using every piece of shredded fabric swept off the floor of the Paul Ropp factory. Nothing is wasted. Paul Ropp has created a concept of what he calls recycled art. Paul Ropp – a native New-Yorker – recently joined the Islamic Fashion Festival, ever-expanding he recently opened a new store in Phuket, Thailand, called PAUL ROPP RECYCLED which focuses on fashion and home accessories. He is sold in over 33 different countries and is constantly expanding into new territories. www.paulropp.com Bud Map.D.13

DESA KERASAN Desa Kerasan – the “common sense green” community development near Junjungan village, Ubud – has been recognised in the recently published ninth anniversary issue of Indonesia Design magazine. In a 12-page spread Indonesia Design profiled both the development itself, and its designer/founder, old friend of The Bud David Collins. Set in sumptuous grounds by a babbling brook, Desa Kerasan – which is nearing completion – provides a simple but elegant living environment with an aesthetic that promotes peace and tranquility. Set away from the road that leads to Ubud town, there is no traffic noise to disturb the muse of the place. “I’m very happy that my vision has made it into a purely design-oriented publication,” David says. “It’s a vindication of what I have dreamed for this project over the years.” www.desakerasan.com Bud Map.K.12

kapal laut Kapal-Laut has opened a new outlet on Monkey Forest Road in Ubud – one of the nicest and most convenient shopping locations in Bali. Together with their existing shop on Jalan Raya Ubud, this new outlet offers excellent quality and customer service. Being a large and stylish space, the new shop provides the best possible range for customers from Kapal Laut's stunning range of jewellery pieces. The company is further expanding its network of stores with the opening of another outlet in Beachwalk Bali, bringing the total number of shops in Bali to eight. www.kapal-laut.com

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Queen’s OF IndiA Want the true taste of Indian cuisine? Forget the Raj and focus on the expanse of exotic dishes that titivate the taste buds; that challenge the chakras. Queen’s of India has opened in Ubud – authentic Indian cuisine on Jalan Suweta No.1, will bring spice into your life; will placate the most discerning palates with a range of prata and papadum; pickles and chutneys. Have an excellent dhal, darl, in Ubud’s new venue for Sub-Continental sublime dining. Also in Seminyak, Kuta & Nusa Dua. Telp: +62 812 492 492 or @queensbali on your fave social network, Twitter.

tHREADS oF life Each year, Threads of Life stages performances introducing the cultures of islands beyond Bali to participants who are attending the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. This year, T.O.L is delighted to have Batak musicians from North Sumatra perform the vibrant traditional music called Gondang, which combines instruments and influences into music that’s lively, beautiful, and uniquely Batak. An accompanying narrative with traditional leader, Restuala Pakpahan, will explore the creation myths of the Batak people . . . be ready for gods, dragons and a goddess descending from the sky on a spun thread. Be there on Thursday, October 4th at 5.30pm in front of the Threads of Life Gallery on Jalan Kajeng, Ubud. www.threadsoflife.com

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museum & resort

museum

resort

ARMA distills the finest of Balinese art and culture, allowing you to discover the uniqueness of Balinese traditional culture to indulge yourself in the luxurious accommodations and pamper your sense with the flavours and aromas of a wide selection of delicious cuisines.

Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud, P.O Box 9696 Bali 80571, Indonesia Phone : (62-361) 976659, Fax : (62-361) 975332 Website : www.armabali.com E-Mail : info@armabali.com, sales@armabali.com

BAT EarthCam What you probably won’t see if you dial up EarthCam.com and go to Bali Adventure Tours’ Elephant Safari Park in Taro village, is footage of a naked man standing in front of an elephant who says: “How on earth do you breathe through THAT?” What you will see is real-time footage of BAT’s beautiful landscaping, the meanderings of people and pachyderms – the lush environment that has been created as a home for elephants that have, in the main, been rescued from dire circumstances in other parts of Indonesia. The Elephant Safari Park is a perfect place for family outings, for people who wish to take a ride through the Taro's forests, for anyone who wants a day out in sumptuous surrounds and the intrigue that comes with getting up close and personal with the world’s largest land animal. With a range of places for rest and repast, and a luxurious lodge for those who wish to linger longer, the Elephant Safari Park is one of Bali’s premier attractions. www.baliadventuretours.com

Indotopia Resto Newly opened in Jalan Sukma No. 23, Tebesaya, Ubud, is the ultimate Vietnamese dining experience. Indotopia! Go there for all your South-East Asian food fantasies. Fresh, fabulous, fantastic. This new kid on the block is open seven days a week from 10 ‘til 10 . . . check it. Telp: +62 8569 393 5839.

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Alila Ubud Slow food is the antithesis of fast food. The Slow Food movement is focused on local, organic, as opposed to non-local, processed food. It’s all about local sourcing – it’s all about supporting local producers. It’s all about freshness and healthy eating. At the cutting edge (literally) of the slow food movement is the Alila Hotel, Ubud. With its “Bringing Home the Bacon” days – an event mainly aimed at Bali’s chefs, but open to those who wish to know how to turn the best cuts of pork into a range of delicious foodstuffs – the Alila Ubud is leading the way in thinking local for a global audience. Executive Chef Eelke and Sous Chef Ray give a lively comprehensive workshop on charcuterie. The duo, who are committed to Slow Food principles, have a regular arrangement to buy chemical-free animals from a village near Ubud. At this workshop, they share their experience with Balinese and expat chefs and foodies. Book your place at the next “Bringing Home the Bacon” event (happening in October) by going to: slowfoodubud@gmail.com. In the meantime check out the fab fare at Alila Ubud’s Plantation Restaurant where Chef Eelke Plasmeijer and his culinary team present a new seasonal degustation menu highlighting the local producers who share Eelke’s passion for food, quality ingredients and sustainable operations. www.alilahotels.com

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Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers. In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986. Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service. “We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.

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Dianna Darling wades into the conversation surrounding the preservatoin of Bali's precious indigenous languages.

Part of Bali’s inscrutability, and much of its charm, comes from its difficult language, Basa Bali. Few foreigners can understand it, and not all Balinese can speak it perfectly. Most Balinese will tell you that they can barely speak it at all. That’s being coy: Balinese is the mother tongue of most Balinese people. It’s the language of daily life, which famously includes a big component of religious practice, local law, and artistic production, all of which is conducted in Balinese. More or less. There is a lot of concern about how Balinese can survive among a few million speakers under the dominance of the national language, Bahasa Indonesia. Many young Balinese children living in towns now speak Indonesian to each other. Is the Balinese language in trouble? Balinese is a rich language with its own script and complex literary forms. It is also extraordinarily expressive. It can coo like a dove or grind like a garbage truck. Its range, and central difficulty, comes from its preoccupation with differences in rank, arising from Bali’s Hindu caste system. There are parallel vocabularies to distinguish the rank of the speakers and their relation to each other and to the people of whom they are speaking. A mistake in observing any of these distinctions by using the wrong word may be felt as an insult. Imagine, for example, that you are an elderly lady, and a stranger comes up and cheerfully shouts, “Hi there, you old bag!” The same effect may result if a Balinese chooses the wrong word for, say, “water”. Caste has been a sensitive issue in Bali since the time of colonial rule, when the Dutch hardened caste divisions and gave privileges to the upper castes. In the Bali of modern, egalitarian Indonesia, some of the pressure on the Balinese language stems from a growing feeling that caste distinctions are obsolete. But there is much else steering Balinese-speakers to Bahasa Indonesia. The press and the education system use Indonesian. Balinese who wish to participate in national discourse write in Indonesian. The human urge for progress creates a dilemma for Balinese who want to be part of modern life and still preserve their traditions, which are held to be vitally precious. Besides, the tourism industry creates an economic incentive for Balinese to learn English and other foreign languages. It is natural that many are concerned that the Balinese language may be under threat. Among them is BASAbali, a non-profit organisation, which estimates that Balinese is now spoken by only one million of nearly four million Balinese (http://basabali.org). The initiative arose when BASAbali’s founder, Alissa Stern, found that there were no modern materials for studying Balinese. She decided to “bring together linguists, videographers, anthropologists, language software specialists, language teachers and others who could share their knowledge of Balinese and experience with language learning programs to create something that could help people learn Balinese, understand its richness, and carry forward its traditions” (http://baliadvertiser.biz/articles/feature/2011/ red_flag.html). On the other hand, I Nyoman Darma Putra, a prominent Balinese intellectual, writer, and professor of Indonesian literature

at Udayana University, is optimistic about the future of Basa Bali. In an article “The Survival of the Balinese Language” (published in the Friesian journal It Beaken in 2008), he writes: “Although nowadays the use of Indonesian has expanded at various levels of society, in Bali this does not necessarily mean that the use of Balinese has declined or that the language has been abandoned. The reality is that over the last two decades both use and promotion of use of the Balinese language have increased spectacularly, a fact that suggests the dynamic experience of Bali being a bilingual society.” Darma Putra points out that instruction in local languages is part of the curriculum of public education, although it is given only a few hours a week. Balinese-language literary productions are sponsored by the Bali Post and a number of publishing houses. There are conferences and literary contests concerned with the conservation of Balinese language. But the most interesting development is “kidung interaktif” in which people call up radio stations and sing Balinese poetry over the phone. This arises from the tradition of mabebasan, or literary recitation. Until recently, this was normally conducted by a small group of elderly men, for their own pleasure at someone’s home or as part of a religious ceremony. One person would sing a line of poetry, and another would interpret the line in Balinese in a highly stylized manner. After a while they might swap roles. This very exacting practice—at which you’d never see a tourist—requires a number of skills besides being able to sing: one must be able to read Balinese script, understand Old Javanese, and know the numerous metres of the literary genres (kekawin, kidung, and geguritan). In the case of kekawin, one must also know Old Javanese (Kawi); kidung is written in Middle Javanese or Balinese, and geguritan is usually written in Balinese. In kidung interaktif, anyone may ring up the radio (or television) station and sing a bit of Balinese poetry. The host at the station performs the interpretation. Otherwise, the same literary exigencies apply. But there is another important difference: the callers are also women and young people, and they are from all sorts of backgrounds: “farmers, money lenders, civil servants, school teachers, housewives, pensioners, retired police, petty traders, small scale entrepreneurs, shop owners, hotel owners and their employees, unemployed people and many others...” Moreover, they often sing their own compositions. Kidung interaktif is wildly popular—so much so that, not long after it was introduced by the state radio station RRI Denpasar in 1991, there were so many callers that different towns in Bali were assigned specific days on which people could phone in. Broadcast time went from half an hour a week to up to four hours a day Monday through Saturday. Presently there are fifteen different kidung interaktif programs on a dozen radio stations. And the practice has spread to Bali’s three television stations. All this suggests that Balinese is thriving in what is becoming a multilingual society.

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Message in a bottle.

Ubud is to folks of a spiritual disposition what catnip is to felines. While much of this exploration is valuable, some aspects can be problematic or even dangerous. Robert Wolf locks and loads his dream-catcher and takes a walk on the spiritual wild side.

For reasons that remain opaque to me, I seem to find myself sucked towards spiritual centres as surely as a jet engine sucks in passing wildfowl. Last year I spent three months in Boulder, Colorado. Since then, I’ve racked up several months in India and now, of course, Bali. Admittedly, I’m dedicated to my asana practice, and there can be few places in the world with a higher concentration of yoga teachers per square foot than Ubud. While I love my practice, however, and derive tremendous benefit from it, I find myself increasingly questioning some of the catchphrases that emerge from the yoga community and other related scenes. Let me give you some examples. How about, "We are all one"? While this is undoubtedly true on a fundamental level, very few of us actually live our lives in a way that makes no differentiation between ourselves and others. If we did, we’d feel the pain and degradation of the women who beg on Ubud’s streets as surely as if it were our own. This being the case, we probably wouldn’t shake our heads at them and order another slice of raw chocolate cake. Think, too, about such gems as: "Our perception of others is merely a reflection of ourselves." There may be times when we project our emotions onto others, but this isn’t universally true. If it were, every psychologist responsible for the assessment of the criminally insane would themselves be criminally insane. That could get awkward. More unsettlingly, in my view, is the extent to which this kind of approach drives the suppression of critical thinking. If I’m uncomfortable with, say, the proliferation of GM foods, is it simply because I need to attain a higher

state of consciousness that rids me of discomfort, or could it be because GM foods are a technology with the potential to cause tremendous harm? Any kind of rational assessment can be thrown back on the assessor in the same manner, closing down the space in which genuine distinctions can be made. This leads to an alarming passivity, in which the remedy for any painful or challenging situation is "acceptance". Perhaps the most glaring example of the way in which faux-spiritual lingo has become a readily accepted part of mainstream culture is the phenomenal success of The Secret. Preaching the belief that our thoughts determine our reality, it postulates a kind of cosmic consumerism in which whatever we desire can be ours at the drop of a hat. As Stuart Davis points out, however, The Secret muddles the Self (note the capital ‘S’) with the ego. Then it paints the perfectly natural desires of the ego with a big dollop of shiny spiritual gloss. Now, I’m with Davis when he says: "I LOVE money. I LOVE sex. I want a new house. I'll take a shiny red bike. I want to be rich, powerful, and successful . . . I think the ego is good, I think its games are legitimate and should be engaged." I’m also with him when he says: "Authentic spirituality is not a vending machine that spits out cars, lovers, and shiny red bikes . . . Actual awakening increases intimacy with all suffering (and bliss), everywhere, without exception. It does not remove struggle, but increases our devotion to and stewardship of all Reality." The Secret mashes the ego and the Self together, and encourages us to identify wholly with the former. Not only is this a formula for narcissistic self-gratification under the

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umbrella of spirituality, it's also patently ridiculous. My thoughts create reality, then thinking that someone is a murderer or a rapist makes them so. Our perceptions are undoubtedly powerful and important, but claiming that they are the only true barometer of reality is an invitation to egotism, dissociation, and delusion. This kind of attitude is plainly visible in some Ubudian circles. A spiritual clique might seem like a contradiction in terms (what’s spirituality if not all-inclusive?), but groups which one must follow particular "rules" to be a part of undoubtedly exist. This kind of identity-level spirituality perturbs me precisely because it subverts a natural human need (belonging) and justifies elitism in the name of a higher calling. A particular bugbear of mine is the use of the term "Goddess" to describe women (lest you think I’m being sexist, I’d feel exactly the same about the term "God" being applied to men). I’m more than happy to acknowledge the divine spark that animates all of life. Claiming to actually be a deity, however, is another matter. Ken Wilber, renowned as the founder of Integral Theory, makes a key distinction between pre-rational and post-rational states of being, and places much New Age philosophy (including The Secret) firmly into the former category. Pre-rationality is the world of children: free, spontaneous, expressive, focussed on the present, with little care for the past or the future. Post-rationality is the world of the mystic: encompassing yet transcending thought, aware of depths which cannot possibly be fathomed by the mundane mind. Much as Picasso mastered his craft before he reinvented it, the would-be-mystic must master the everyday affairs of life before going beyond them. The wide-eyed innocence of children can certainly be beautiful. Equating it with genuine spiritual accomplishment, however, is akin to displaying little Jimmy’s drawings of mummy and daddy in an art gallery and revering them for their bold, unselfconscious strokes. Wilber refers to this misconception (the confusion of pre-rational and post-rational) as the pre/trans fallacy. Many of us are understandably concerned by an industrial paradigm that lionises economic growth and tramples upon human values in pursuit of profit. If we’re in the grip of the pre/trans fallacy, however, we may be unable to distinguish between genuine engagement with the challenges of a changing world and hanging out in Ubud for a bit. The latter is a perfectly acceptable activity. In and of itself, however, it doesn’t constitute spirituality. Robert Augustus Masters, a psychotherapist based in

Canada, utilises the term spiritual bypassing, first coined by psychologist John Welwood in 1984. In Masters’ words, spiritual bypassing is: "the use of spiritual practices and beliefs to avoid dealing with our painful feelings, unresolved wounds, and developmental needs. It is much more common than we might think and, in fact, is so pervasive as to go largely unnoticed, except in its more obvious extremes." If you’re feeling a sense of chagrin upon reading those words, take comfort. Masters also writes that, "every one of us who has entered into the spiritual has engaged in spiritual bypassing, at least to some degree." I’m certainly no exception to this law. I’m the first to admit that I’ve partaken of plenty of spiritual bypassing over the years, particularly when I was vegetarian/vegan/ raw vegan. I clung superciliously to the belief that I was making spiritual progress by cutting meat out of my diet, despite evidence to the contrary. The fact that I was living at home with my parents, out of work and having just impregnated a woman I hardly knew, should perhaps have been a clue that all was not well. This is not to critique vegetarianism or veganism per se. It’s to point out that I personally was using them as a crutch to prevent me from addressing painful aspects of my existence. As long as I refrained from eating animals, I convinced myself that I was being "spiritual", even if I was causing all kinds of havoc as soon as I vacated the dinner table. "Most of the time," Masters writes, "when we’re immersed in spiritual bypassing, we like the light but not the heat." We love the trappings that we associate with spirituality more than we love the actual work of coming to awakening. Carl Jung averred that, "there is no coming to consciousness without pain". When we’re engaged in spiritual bypassing we want the consciousness – or at least the appearance of consciousness – without the pain. I spoke to three local yoga teachers who I esteem highly – Daniel Aaron, Denise Payne, and Emily Kuser – about their experiences of spiritual bypassing. All three have been in Ubud much longer than I have, and I was curious to hear their perspectives on the phenomenon. Do they, for example, see Ubud as a place where spiritual bypassing is particularly prevalent? Denise, who has travelled extensively and run yoga centres in Portland, Oregon, told me: "I feel like I’ve seen it more in Ubud than anywhere else in the world. It’s amusing to me."

Heads up.

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Confluence.

Daniel and Emily concur that Ubud is a hotbed of spiritual bypassing, with Emily noting the dangers of the ‘wounded healers’ – people who haven’t integrated their pain purporting to heal others. Nonetheless, all three are quick to echo the sentiment that we’d do well to resist passing judgement on those we see as engaging in spiritual bypassing. Firstly, we’ve all done it. In fact, we almost certainly still do. Excising all trace of it from one’s habits is a major task, perhaps a lifelong one. Daniel speaks of a time when he used to treasure his mala beads and treat them as a kind of "spiritual blankie". Emily describes her early life as a fairly chaotic time, which left her somewhat vulnerable to spiritual bypassing when she discovered yoga. Secondly, it may be a necessary phase. "I have no disparaging words for gym yoga or Bikram yoga," says Denise. “Every step is valuable." She goes on to posit, however, that spiritual bypassing mechanisms, like all coping mechanisms, are doomed to fall apart sooner or later. "At some point," she says, "those systems will fail you. Maybe they’ll break down, and you’ll replace them with some other way of spiritual bypassing. Then that way will fail you." I ask Daniel what he sees as the telltale differences between spiritual bypassing and genuine attainment, and he’s quick to pinpoint experience as a key factor. "It’s a lot easier to talk about spirituality than to delve into what that really means," he says, somewhat hopefully. I present my theory that, because yoga asanas work with the physical body, they tend to highlight the places in which we’re bypassing our emotions, thereby heading our tendencies towards spiritual bypassing off at the pass. Daniel, however, is having none of it. "It’s still entirely possible to delude ourselves while practising asana," he says. "At its core, asana is just a way of developing strength and power. What that strength and power is used for depends entirely on the practitioner." Images of Darth Vader and the Dark Side of the Force dance before me. "Some people," Daniel continues, "believe that the whole point of an asana practice is just to stay healthy enough, and live long enough, to have a chance of reaching enlightenment." There goes my smug face. The potential for development, in Daniel’s eyes, comes

in how we relate to our asana practice. "It’s like a laboratory," he says. "We get to ask ourselves: how do I relate to myself in the process of succeeding or not succeeding? Do we give up when it’s hard? Do we push through? Ultimately, there’s nothing that isn’t spiritual." This echoes Emily’s observation that, generally speaking, "there are two types of people who come to Ubud. People who are in some kind of pain, and people who seem strangely blank – almost two-dimensional." Oddly enough, she adds, this latter type can be the most fascinating when the mask falls away and they suddenly open up. What, I ask Denise, does she see as the underlying cause of spiritual bypassing? Culturally, it seems to be largely a phenomenon of the Western world, which perhaps explains the appeal of another manifestation of it; pitching up in Ubud and pretending to be Balinese. "We all have a tape playing in our heads that runs ‘I’m not good enough,’ she tells me. Where do we pick up that message? "From the wider culture, which is constantly telling us ‘you’re not good enough’. It’s coming to Bali, too. They’re starting to want posh mobile phones and other status symbols. The Balinese language is dying out and being replaced by Bahasa Indonesia." What does she see as the antidote? "My number one goal as a teacher is to become unnecessary; to support my students in believing ‘you are good enough’." Is she good enough, I wonder. "Yeah, I’m good enough. I wasn’t always, but I am now." In my eyes, spiritual bypassing is simply another flavour of avoidance in a world that provides us with ample opportunities to distract ourselves. If we can notice it in ourselves and others, perhaps we can, as Daniel puts it, "with compassion, with caring, call bullshit when we see bullshit." That might mean becoming more and more willing to sit in the transformative fire that creates spiritual heat, rather than reaching for an illusory light. Nonetheless, the potential rewards are great. In the words of Robert Augustus Masters: "If we can outgrow spiritual bypassing, we might enter a deeper life – a life of full-blooded integrity, depth, love, and sanity; a life of authenticity on every level; a life in which the personal, interpersonal, and transpersonal are all honoured and lived to the fullest." Now that sounds like a journey worth taking.

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Prolific and passionate, Made Wianta has been a major force in Indonesian art for more than three decades. His oeuvre spans every genre imaginable, from painting and drawing to poetry and performance art. Robert Wolf spends an afternoon exploring what makes him tick, delving into his roots, and playing with an exceptionally cute kitten.

Wianta's brain, scanned by Japanese neurologists looking to understand his processes.

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Ties that bind.

My first contact with the Wianta Foundation surprised me somewhat. Imagine calling Damien Hirst or Tracey Emin for an interview and being asked to pick the date and time at which you’d like to meet them. That, however, was precisely my experience when I spoke to Burat Wangi Wianta. Made Wianta’s daughter – she also plays an important role in administrating the foundation, representing Made Wianta at functions, and translating for him when foreigners pitch up to ask him about his work. The unprepossessing exterior of the building where the artist lives and works gives way to a gallery and an adjacent studio. Burat walks me through the former, pointing out intriguing pieces and opening up an archive of her father’s work for my perusal. One that particularly catches my eye features a real Balinese kris (ritual dagger). As Burat explains, it’s highly unusual for a kris to be displayed so openly, especially (as this one is) without its scabbard and embedded in canvas. Made Wianta, however, is comfortable breaking taboos in service of art. In repose, he is a man of solemn countenance. When speaking about his work, however, he becomes highly animated. As I discuss the significance of some of his catalogue with him (through Burat) and survey two enormous plates of cakes, I wonder whether Damien Hirst ever introduces journalists to his family or offers them chocolate brownies and croissants. During the course of the interview I meet his wife,

Intan, and both his daughters (Burat and Sanji Wani). Intan jokes affectionately that Made is her third child. Sanji, his younger daughter, recently rescued a tiny ginger kitten and named him Puma. This little mite makes intermittent appearances during the afternoon, wrestling fiercely with my bag and, if it’s within range, my hand. The sense of family and community that pervades our meeting is not incidental. Made Wianta was born in a rural village named Apuan, in Baturiti, Tabanan (there are numerous Apuans in Bali), the youngest of 10 children. Although he personally has ranged far and wide from his childhood home, the memories and values of his roots seem to be etched deeply into his being. Without the support of his family, who clubbed together to fund his studies, he would never have had the opportunity to pursue the work he’s currently doing. This awareness appears to permeate everything he does, from supporting his family and village financially, to the activities of the Made Wianta Foundation, to welcoming me into his home and studio. It also seems to shape his understanding of his role as an artist. At one point, intrigued by the repeated use of nails in his work, I ask him whether he sees himself as a martyr. He answers vigorously in the negative, espousing a more humanist philosophy. He explains that he sees it simply as his human responsibility to engage compassionately with world events. A perfect example of this is his response to the

PROFILE

Kuta bombings of 2002, entitled Dreamland. As a relatively jaded Englishman, it’s hard for me to imagine what it was to be Balinese when the island experienced its first terrorist atrocity. Dreamland gives me some idea, though. The exhibition included, in the words of French art critic Jean Couteau: "2002kg of rice spread in an oval shape so as to symbolise the Balinese world and the Balinese rose of the winds. On the eight directions of the compass of the rice mound are distributed symbols of human remains and Balinese offerings." This juxtaposition speaks to the mingling of traditional Balinese culture with the new influences that arrived on the island with tourism. "Eighty per cent of Balinese used to work the rice fields," Made Wianta says, "and we need to question our involvement in the tourism industry." He’s quick to clarify, however, that he’s not intending to blame locals for the conditions which bred the attacks. Ironically, he points out, the very people who invite tourism into their lives also feel obliged to strive ceaselessly to balance the island’s energies, a time-consuming and expensive process that all but ensures they won’t turn a lasting profit from the influx of visitors. Following the attacks, for example, the site of the bombing was declared 'leteh'. The term isn’t easily translated into English, but I gather it means something like 'tainted'. In the wake of the explosion, special ceremonies known as 'mecaru' took place to appease the Gods of the Underworld. Animals were sacrificed and the area underwent a cleansing process. This attempt to sanctify the affected area is reflected

in another part of Dreamland. Made Wianta visited slaughterhouses to procure the blood of cows (a sacred animal to Hindus in Bali, as in India), and applied it to images of the slain and wounded. Ultimately, he hopes that the work can act as a historical artefact, documenting the moment terrorism ripped through the Balinese psyche and acting as a resource for future generations. While much of his work is informed by social unrest, the actual practice of art appears to be deeply nourishing, even spiritual, for him. The sensations he experiences while creating, he says, are akin to those a monk might enjoy while immersed in counting his mala beads. There’s tangible evidence of this: a group of Japanese scientists noticed that hospital patients who viewed Made Wianta’s work on the way to the operating theatre were appreciably calmer than those who didn’t. In 2008, he travelled to Japan for a brain scan intended to decipher the mysteries behind this phenomenon. Burat shows me footage of Made, sporting what looks like a very fetching blue swimming cap with white polka dots, drawing and drumming. The results of the scan revealed that his brainwaves while engaged in creative activities did in fact show similar patterns to those of a monk in meditation. Made Wianta’s father was both a farmer and a priest. Working the fields during the week, he adopted the latter mantle during evenings and weekends, and when ceremonies required his services. Although the young Made’s desire to study art took him away from the village of his birth, he retains a sense of his vocation as both a link with the land and an avenue to spiritual

Signing off.

PROFILE

Wianta's poetry knows no bounds.

satisfaction. For him, making art is a daily practice; a discipline. It is an essential tool in developing a sense of internal peace, and transmitting that peace to the external world. Exactly how far those ripples can spread was attested to by a 1999 project entitled Art and Peace. The economic crisis of 1997 led to considerable hardship and sparked brutal violence, especially against Chinese-Indonesians. Art and Peace brought 2,000 children together to display a banner twokilometres-long on Sanur beach. The banner was emblazoned with quotes relating to peace, the word 'peace' in many different languages, and other messages. This was no mere sloganeering stunt, however. The practical necessities of the piece required people to come together to make it happen, donating financially or giving of their time. The children, for example, needed to be fed while they learned the choreography of the piece. They also required protection, a need that gave the police a positive role to play in an era in which they were often on the frontlines of battle. On a more contemporary note, Made Wianta’s work took pride of place recently in Washington D.C. The show, entitled "60 Years of Partnership: Exhibition of Indonesian Contemporary Art by Heri Dono and Made Wianta," was sponsored by the World Bank. Although Made himself chose not to make the trip, Burat braved the jetlag to put in an appearance. He has other things on his mind. A new project, bringing together painting, performance art, installations, and even a book launch, is consuming

much of his time. The year 2017 will be the 350th anniversary of the little-known Treaty of Breda. Little-known, but highly significant. At the time of the treaty, the island of Run, part of the Indonesian archipelago, was the largest producer of nutmeg in the world. The spice trade was exceptionally lucrative business, and the British and Dutch were in dispute over the rights to Run’s harvests. The stalemate was eventually resolved when the British waived their claim over Run in exchange for dominion over the then-fledgling city of New Amsterdam. New Amsterdam, of course, was soon renamed New York and the rest, as they say, is history. Made Wianta’s aim in bringing the Treaty of Breda to the world’s attention is to highlight the role Indonesia played in an event that made such a significant contribution to shaping the world we live in. Humble though it is, this country is powerful: a statement that could apply equally well to Made Wianta. www.madewianta.com

interview

Ignorance is not bliss. Knowledge is an intervention . . . education a bridge between blithe acceptance and empowerment. Butet Manurung’s mission is to take the love of learning under the canopies of Indonesia’s forests and jungles so that young indigenous people are better able to make choices . . . and lead lives that march to the rhythm of their own aspirational journeys. By Andrew Hall. People are motivated by many things – Butet Manurung’s inspiration came in the form of Indiana Jones and an ants’ nest. Her dad didn’t like his little girl getting her hands dirty in the big smoke of Jakarta . . . but Butet dreamed of jungles and imagined herself as an ant – disappearing down a hole, to emerge in places that existed only in her dreams. "I was very over-protected by my father when I was young, and when I saw the Indiana Jones movie I told him that I wanted to be like Indiana one day, but a real one . . ." Butet says. "His reply was that we would talk about it in six or seven years’ time." When that time elapsed, anthropology became her calling, mingled with a desire to reach out to this country’s marginalised young people – which she does with prodigious portions of love and, importantly, she says, humour. "Through my work with Indigenous people I have

learned that you can laugh even when things are bordering on the disastrous," Butet says. "One time, when I was basically dying from malaria in the jungle, I was still trying to teach the kids – because it made me feel better – and one of them said, 'Ibu Guru, if your time is not so long would you give your bag to me . . . and I want you to write it down that you have given me your bag so I can prove it to people'." Butet didn’t die, obviously, and still chuckles heartily when recounting the story. Her first excursion into the jungle took place when she was 18 – climbing a mountain on Java. Since that time Butet says she needs to disappear into nature at least once a month. "It’s like going home for me," she says. Upon completion of her undergraduate degree in anthropology and Indonesian literature Butet joined the WARSI Foundation (The Indonesian Conservation Community) whose mission is to revive communitybased conservation of local people – primarily in southern

Dreams of ants and Indie . . .

interview

Streams of understanding.

Ibu guru.

Sumatra – and to influence the spatial management of conservation. The foundation’s motto is: "Conservation for Community Prosperity – not to discard prosperity for conservation". WARSI achieves its goals through sponsoring education programmes involving NGOs, professionals and academics throughout Indonesia. "The main issue facing these local communities lies in how people view development . . . how outsiders think the communities are supposed to live versus what these people really want in their lives," Butet says. “There is a lot of encroachment from the outside on Indigenous communities – a lot of commercialisation of the forests; and a lot of people from outside who want to try to change the ways Indigenous people live. “There is pressure on the jungle people to become 'normal', and this is a situation I’m trying to help . . . to turn around. "I think the only way that Indigenous people can defend themselves against this encroachment is by way of education so they are in a position to engage in a dialogue." Butet went on to complete a Master's Degree in applied anthropology and participatory development at the Australian National University, and her work in the jungle evolved into co-founding SOKOLA – a non-profit with a purely educational focus. "What I believe is that it’s not my business to say what maginalised communities need . . . I want them to pursue what they want," Butet says. "It doesn’t matter to me if they want to stay in the jungle or move to the outside, so I facilitate programmes that enable them to have more options, and provide opportunities about how to pursue their own dreams. "It’s mainly about defending their rights." An important starting point for the programmes is strengthening the understanding of traditional culture, and for this SOKOLA involves traditional leaders who pass their knowledge on to younger generations – knowledge of traditional medicine; sacred rites; and fostering a better understanding of the historical/traditional matrices that bind social groupings. "At the same time we also provide knowledge from the outside world including humans rights issues; Indonesian language; computer skills; and film making," Butet says. "But what I’ve found after the years I’ve been doing this is that virtually none of my students want to live outside of the jungle. They use the knowledge that they have accessed from the outside to benefit their own communities."

The word "community" occurs frequently when Butet is talking about her work. Indeed, SOKOLA’s sub-title is the Alternative Education Community. So what does the term mean to her? "Community is a group of people who share the same dreams, or the same construction of what they want to contribute to the world," she says. Since 2003 SOKOLA has initiated programmes in eight different provinces throughout Indonesia which have benefited more than 10,000 children in isolated indigenous communities. "I accuse the formal schooling system in Indonesia of attempting to generalise everyone in the country," Butet says. "And this generalisation is often very oriented towards people who live in cities, and promotes city life as the best way of life. It promotes the attitude that to be a happy person you have to be rich, or you have to be clever, etcetera. "It is very rare that the formal school curriculum highlights the rich diversity of cultures in this country. So, Indigenous people who are exposed to this system come away feeling ashamed about being Indigenous. "If they don’t have access to more localised forms of education they will think that what they actually have is not something they can be proud of." Butet’s work as an educator and activist has been recognised on many levels including UNESCO’s “Man and Biosphere Award” in 2001, TIME Magazine’s “Hero of Asia” in 2004, “Asia Young Leader” in 2007, “Ashoka Fellow” in 2006, and “Young Global Leader” in 2009. But, she says: "I personally have learnt an awful lot from my students. They make me reflect on my own life so far, and how I orient my life as a teacher. "They have taught me the value of simplicity and of humour." She has written a book about her experiences – which showcased at this year’s Ubud Readers and Writers Festival – called The Jungle School (first published in Indonesian as Sokola Rimba in 2007). "The theme of the book is, of course, the value of education, but not formalised education," Butet says. "For unique people you have to create uniquely flexible ways of communicating and to tailor the educational experience to the circumstances in which people live. "Many people say the book is very funny – it’s full of funny stories, and I wrote it to be very easy to understand." Butet Manurung is the embodiment of her work – she’s compassionate, committed, and, yes . . . she’s funny too.

interview

He's passionate about social justice, he's a teacher, he's hip-hop . . . poetry, he says, is a vehicle that can bring about positive change in the lives of those who are lost. Here begineth the Lesson.

So Luka, you’re an Aussie and the current Australian poetry slam champion, how did you get into slamming? I got into slam through Hip-hop – after writing raps for about six years I discovered ‘Def Jam’ poetry videos on Youtube and started writing performance poetry. I definitely haven’t regretted getting into it from there, that’s for damn sure! For the uninitiated, what does a poetry slam involve? Five judges are chosen from the crowd who score each poet out of 10 – the top score is dropped in case you happen to be the poet’s mother, the bottom score is dropped in case you just gave them a 2/10 because of a bad haircut – and a score out of 30 is found by adding together the three middle scores. There is a time limit of usually two or three minutes, no props, costumes or backing music/instruments allowed. And it is all about crowd participation, so get loud, get supportive and enjoy the vibe. You’re the co-director of the Centre for Poetics and Justice in Melbourne – what’s that all about? The Centre for Poetics and Justice is a collective of like-minded poets and educators who are passionate about the positive development of today’s world through poetry. We conduct workshops and produce events. Most of our work is centred around assisting disadvantaged young people find their voices and expressing themselves, it is the gift of freedom. A bit about your background – as a youngster what did you want to be when you grew up? I quote: “A marine biologist and a millionaire”. True story, I love the ocean so much and it always makes me feel at home and centred. I would read books memorising the names of different fish, I even studied

up on how to scuba dive before I was old enough to get my license. I recently got my license in Paros – an island in Greece – it made me realise how much I love the ocean and that sometimes when you’re a kid you really do know what is best for yourself. Have you grown up yet? Yes, enough to figure out a regression back to childhood from here is probably my best option. But life is good now that I have "grown up". Have you attended writers’ festivals before? Yes I’ve attended the Bookworm in Beijing, The Auckland, the Melbourne and the Sydney writers’ festivals this year so far. I absolutely love the atmosphere and connections between simultaneously diverse and like-minded people who frequent a writers’ festival. Audience members and other writers are usually so passionate about it all, it usually feels like you’ve already met everyone before. You teach Indigenous Studies at Monash University – what’s your take on the state of play for Australia’s Indigenous people? The state of play is cultural genocide. The definitions and conversations used in public policy and politics is reflective of the lack of understanding of those in power and is still shockingly disrespectful. The amount of times things have been promised and not delivered, colonisation has been framed as having "helped" Aboriginal people or Aboriginal people have been treated as a "problem needing to be fixed" is astounding. My informed opinion is that Australia has the worst record in mistreatment of indigenous people world-wide, in relation to these issues I am ashamed to call myself an Australian. But I love this country and dedicate my time towards changing things in whatever small way I can.

Write on.

interview

How can hip-hop and poetry act as an awarenessraising agent for marginalised youth? Performance poetry I believe works in two ways. Firstly it can help young people learn how to express themselves, to transform within them what they are feeling and articulate this to the world. It is the freedom to speak, to react to their surroundings and be heard. The second way is through the opportunity others have to hear these words, to be encouraged, find solidarity or shared experience with the performer and feel moved, changed or transformed by witnessing their work. Poetry, when it is written and performed with the right intentions, changes the people who witness and perform it. It is our opportunity to learn from our neighbours directly rather than be told by the media who our neighbours may be, and why we should like or dislike them. Slam, above everything else, is about community. Who are your favourite writers? My favourite writers are Nikos Kazantsakis, Khalil Gibran, Hinemoana Baker, Ken Arkind, Amir Sulaiman, Anne Sexton, Sarah Kay, Omar Musa and David Nyuol Vincent. Have you ever slammed your way out of a tricky situation? My life has been a tricky situation over the past four years, finally things have gotten better, slam has been a big part of this. I slam myself out of a negative past into a better future every time I take a stage. Poetry is my mentor, student, healer and friend. You perform around the world . . . do you have any favourite memories of places/performances? The Nuyorican Café in New York City especially on a Friday night – a slam hosted by Mahogany L. Browne; Denver’s Slam Nuba is absolutely incredible; Melbourne’s Slamalamadingdong is full of the excitement and freshness of a new scene and Brisbane’s "Words or Whatever" is a monthly event I helped start when I first got into slam – it is still going and spills out onto the street with great vibes every time. Would you be so kind as to give us a quick slam on a subject of your choice . . . Please resist me colonise me, compromise me and conflict me please don't risk me if you see me at the airport please come and frisk me

Please resist me colonise me, compromise me and conflict me please don't risk me please call me stupid because your resistance brings my evolution Please resist me call me a wog It’s brought us so close together I could call me a squad Please resist me lock me in solitary confinement I'll close my eyes and admire the quality of the silence I'll write rhymes in my mind honestly and define them solidly redefine and memorise them until like a diamond when I come out I’ll be better than when I arrived in Please resist me, Keep me under the thumb Keep me down trodden Keep me under the gun Keep me working harder under thunder and sun Son - haven't you heard? I'm becoming a gun Please resist me because resistance brings evolution and you've resisted me consistently I thank you for your contribution I'm a happy man your stupidity has made me strong I've developed wings a thick skin and this here opposable thumb It holds my pen which loads my explodable tongue So without loading a gun I'm killing high quotas of unemotional . . . punks Sorry you also taught me to speak French I learnt it when you kept keeping me at arms-length And then I learnt Italian just to expand my head And Greek to learn from where my ancestors had fled And then I learnt some Yanyuwa to show the people of this land respect You see it's been your example that has led me to leave you for dead So don't trust me I'm risky Insurmountable unaccountable I'm an undeniable unreliable maniacal liability I fire soliloquies and my liturgies literally leave a literary litany You see when I was little They told me I was Illegitimate, illiterate and limited Little did they know that in a minute I'd be killing it I'm vivid like in cinemas so my synonym is vividness I stick it like I'm cinnamon and kill it like a militant I live it like a citizen - you live a life like imprisonment Besides Indigenous, immigrant might be the most legitimate of citizens So it’s better to live a life like us. Isn't it?

theLIST

Oct/Nov/Dec 2012

The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.

Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie.

deep trivia: cloth Cloth conceals, proclaims, and adorns. Diana Darling unfurls some of the mysticism of cloth in Bali and weaves some lore about its banality.

Benang means thread. The coarse, locally spun and rather dirty-looking white thread called benang bali is an important ingredient in ritual, symbolic of Shiva. Thread is the seed of cloth, the simple material from which strength, colour, pattern, and meaning are created. Breasts, once a matter of utility in Bali, became political in the 1920s when progressive Balinese began to object to the prurient attention bare-breasted women drew from foreigners. The colonial Dutch seem to have been of two minds: they urged women to cover their breasts but allowed images of bare-breasted women to appear in promotional literature. Cloth is wastra in high Balinese, kain in middle Balinese and Indonesian. Until well into the 20th century, women wove cloth, a skill taught by the goddess Ratih, wife of the deity of love. The weaving of cloth and the weaving of spells are related by more than metaphor: many handwoven textiles are said to have magical properties of protection. Clothes in Bali are traditionally comprised of unsewn pieces of cloth wrapped around the hips, chest, waist, and head. Traditional dress is worn not only at religious ceremonies but also at official functions and in the tourism industry, by tour guides, waitresses, and hotel staff. Tourists themselves are encouraged to wear traditional Balinese garb on ritual occasions such as weddings or temple festivals, especially in Ubud. Sometimes expat hostesses require their guests to wear Balinese dress to events that have a ceremonial component, like the inauguration of a new swimming pool. Curtain in theatrical performances such as the danceopera form Arja, the makeshift curtain is two pieces of cloth that are pulled shut at the beginning of the play. (Someone once remarked that “only in Bali does the

performance begin with the closing of the curtain.”) From behind the curtain comes a keening sort of singing and then the protruding of an elegant forefinger. As the song progresses, the orchestra’s drums and cymbals kick in and there is some tugging and shaking of the curtain, adding tension and suspense. Then slowly the curtains part slightly to reveal something gold. Then an ear, then a fabulously made-up eye, a face of sizzling energy, and then the curtains are thrown open and the dancer appears.

Endek (sounds like ‘nduck’) is a weft ikat cloth indigenous to Bali, once the prerogative of the nobility and now proudly worn by as an emblem of Balinese ethnicity. Festive cloths: the Balinese believe that things are merrier dressed in gilded cloth, and this applies especially to temple shrines. The bases of shrines are dressed in hip cloths. Ider-ider run under the eaves; pajeng (parasols) stand guard at shrines in deity-specific colours: red, black, yellow, and white for Brahma, Wisnu, Mahadéwa, and Iswara. Umbul-umbul, the tall banners slipped over bamboo poles, may be in solid colours or painted with images. Hotel décor has borrowed heavily from all of these. Funeral gifts: When someone dies, people go to the house of the deceased bringing gifts of plain white cloth (kain kasa). The family will need lots of it at various stages of the funeral rites, from wrapping the corpse to the final release of the soul. Yellow cloth, too, is important, especially in the later stages of death-and-deification rituals.

Geringsing: unique to Bali and one of the world’s few double ikat textiles. Double ikat, in which both the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed to form the pattern, is extremely difficult and rare. The technique is known only in parts of India, Japan, and in the village of Tenganan Pegeringsingan in east Bali. Geringsing is considered a

Continued on page 40.

the list

Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...

www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Agung Rai himself takes mystic buffs on an afternoons wander around the sacred spaces and waterways of Ubud. A very unique tour

adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali. ANTIQUES

ADVENTURE Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife).

Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts. The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region.

Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. Bali Bird Walks Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills. Mysticism Tour Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228.

shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.

knowledgeably accompanied by his wish to educate us in the ways of Bali's mystic soul. Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first

Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best

ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates. ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS 3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family

sacred cloth, used in rituals such as tooth-filing and death rites. Rumours that its deep red dye was from human blood are said to have been disseminated by people from Tenganan to discourage others from trying to copy the cloth. Head: The head is dressed partly because it is the seat of reason and intuition, but also to prevent any hair falling on temple ground (fallen hair is considered a waste product of the body and therefore unclean). Men wear a head cloth (destar / udeng) as part of regular traditional dress. For important ceremonies, women wear a thin strip of white cloth (bebed) tied around the head. In the regency of Badung, women wear an elaborately tied tengkuluk head cloth, often of songkèt, with a chignon off to the side; in early photographs, one sees Badung women with plainer head cloths tied in the same manner. Ikat is the technique of creating a pattern in woven cloth by tie-dyeing the threads of the warp or the weft before weaving.

Kajang: a white cloth with an anthropomorphic drawing and magical syllables, for wrapping symbols of the soul of the deceased in the process of returning the entire being to the universe. Family members pin Chinese kepèng coins to the drawing with sewing needles. The cloth itself is the object of an important ritual called ngajum kajang, in which the cloth is honoured and prepared to receive the soul. Kebaya fashion changes at a gentle pace. Over the past three decades it had gone from short body / floral pattern to solid colours, embroidery, to the present-day long body / see-through with embroidery, with every variation in between. What doesn’t change is the skin-tight fit—not the thing to wear for playing volleyball.

Kereb: White cloth covers dangerously holy objects such as the masks of Rangda and the Barong when they are at rest. When Rangda dances, she flicks her kereb about like a weapon: it is said that to be touched by it can cause harm. Polèng: the black-and-white chequered cloth seen wrapping the hips of ‘traditional security guards’ (pecalang)

and other ambiguously magical things. The symbolism of black-and-white is the Balinese principle of dualism (rwa bhineda)—the cosmic play of opposites, with the intermediary grey found in woven polèng representing the balanced middle way. (Printed polèng is black and white only.) Post-funerary rituals are resplendent in yellow and white. According to the seminal Textiles in Bali by Brigitta Hauser-Schäublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, and Urs Ramseyer, (Periplus, 1991), these colours, symbolic of the west and the east, “often indicate the presence of the supreme god Siwa in his bi-sexual aspect”. Sex in your skirt: Both men and women wear a full-length hip cloth (wastra / kamben), although wrapped differently in a manner making their gender explicit: a woman’s cloth is closed; a man’s has a long flair (lancingan / kancut) in front. Men wear a saput, or secondary hip cloth, over this.

Songkèt is a rich, highly prestigious woven cloth with supplementary weft threads of gold or silver. Underwear: in early times, women’s undergarments were a simple knee-length hip cloth called tapih. Waist sash (sabuk): This is the absolute minimum of ceremonial clothing required of anyone entering a temple. The idea is to make the wearer conscious of being on holy ground and of the two-fold character of being human, tying off the lower appetites from one’s higher nature. The fashion in women’s waist sashes changes over the years. In the 1980s it was a substantial songkèt band. Today it’s a wide gauzy cloth draped over the hips.

Wangsul / gedogan: a narrow hand-woven cloth with uncut warp, used in certain rites in which the cloth is ritually cut, releasing spiritual energy. This practice has become very rare—no doubt because few people these days can be bothered to weave cloth on the little cagcag back-strap looms; but the use of cloth in ritual or to wrap daggers or to adorn one’s head will not fade in Bali.

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of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations. Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists. Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Map Ref: X.10 Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm. Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1. Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s

gallery walls. Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng. Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 . Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist. Infinity Gallery Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 www.liquid-art-gallery.com Infinity Gallery displays "Liquid Art", which is ultra high-speed photography of fluids in motion. The timefreezing method allows you to see hidden wonders of the natural world. Think of it as a visual spa, in a modern and elegant gallery setting. Open daily from 9am to 10pm. Free entry. Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and

installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road. Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays. Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that

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BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting. Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.com Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community.

Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan. www.symonstudios.com

A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men. Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh. Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.com Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas. TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s

is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses. Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building. Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit. W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3. Tel: 0361-977978. pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.

B BARS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is modAustralian inspired – that is, fresh local organic produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is

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also a great bar with an openplan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – their Virgin Wheatgrass Mojito has to be the best pick-me-up of all time - it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day. Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832 Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite secret hangouts. Literary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Set on a ravine of the Oos River this new trendy threetiered cafe cum wine bar cum restaurant is set to rock its riverside terraces. Their Divine Wine Cellar stocks Old and New World wines and hosts Divine Hour from 5-7pm every day with a glasses of wine starting from 50++. There is a cute bites menu as well as a full on a la carte. A private dining room and bottle shop complete this all-in-one venue of Ubudosity!

Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight.

One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975354.

Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one. Il Giardino Italian Restaurant

at Gallery Han Snel Jl. Kajeng. No.3 Tel: 0361 974271 http://ilgiardinobali.com ilgiardino.resto@gmail.com A gentle stroll down a quiet cobbled lane in Ubud leads to Il Giardino, tucked into

the ornamental gardens of the historic Han Snel Gallery. This evocative restaurant blends the flavors of an Italian trattoria with the magic of an enchanted Balinese Garden and the sensual artworks of the famous Dutch painter. Soft sexy jazz mingled with Italian crooners sets the mood for this alluring restaurant clustered around ponds brimming with lotus flowers, pots filled with fresh herbs and gurgling water fountains. Balmy nights are ripe for romance as a gentle breeze carries the delicate perfume of tropical flowers, while the moon light peeps through the frangipani trees and candle wax drips over Chianti bottles. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ Map Ref. If you don’t actually stay in this award-winning hotel you must pop into Jati Lounge for tropical cocktails and light snacks. Its curved architectural teak mastery enhances the view of the Ayung River gorge and the tropical forest on the opposing valley. Excellent High Tea or light snack house specialties accompanied by fruit juices or cocktails in the late afternoon-light make for a very special moment. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya.

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CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210-day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic recently refurbished to combine air con comfort and outdoor pavilion seating, that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm. Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and

Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).

Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan. Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot.com

When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks. Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere. Warung Kopi @Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com Views of rice paddy fields and landscaped gardens over a cup of coffee, a delicious brownie and a good book. There is nothing better. One of Ubud's best cafe hangouts. WiFi is supplied - if you must, but we suggest getting off your Faceboook and enjoying the breezes and the view or one of the many workshops or courses on offer.

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BOOK SHOPS Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here. Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here. Boutiques Anjaly Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-971599 www.anjalybali.com Map Ref. M.9 Born out of gratitude, inspired by yoga and a tribute to being green, Anjaly (Sanskrit for thankfulness) is a forwardthinking clothing brand dedicated to freedom. Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with

their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in. Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18 Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion.

between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.

C CAVIAR & CHAMPAGNE

Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles.

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.

BOTANIC GARDENS

COCKFIGHTING

Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.

Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.

Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja. Tel: 0361-7463389. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of

COOKING CLASSES Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan.

Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768

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DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance. info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow. Maya Ubud

Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education. Clinics Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the

world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent addition is a women's medical spa offering ozone treatments, basic pre-med check ups and a variety of feminine hygiene treatments. CRAFTS Indigo

Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories. Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.6 Exquisite antiques and local creative traditions. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors.

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Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.

DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.

online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event. Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival.com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.

ECO

GLASS

Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armaresort.com This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung...and along the way learn how the Balinese

Horizon Glassworks Jl. Monkey Forest Coffee Silver Shopping Arcade Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: R.5/F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted

really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape. The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875

3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine

FESTIVALS Bali Spirit Festival www.

www.greenschool.org. A powerful community jointventure school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee. Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812

balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go

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OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.

it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge on Jl. Raya Kengetan and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

While Threads of Life Gallery mostly displays and sells natural dyed traditional textiles made by the 1200 weavers on the 11 islands that Threads of Life works with, the gallery also features a variety of fine crafts made by traditional artisans, including fine traditional basketry, pottery along with homewares such as pillows and tablerunners, and wearable art.

GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).

HEALTH

H Handicrafts Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Art Center Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-972187 www.threadsoflife.com

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Taking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha. Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.com Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high

quality standard for energetic treatments. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA. Treatments exclusively for women are also now part of the programme. HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com

Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366. www.alamidahbali.com Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079. www.baliswasti.com Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-975017. Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-973381. HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41011. www.alilahotels.com One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East

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Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. All rooms face the ocean with clear views across the straits to Nusa Penida. Alila Manggis is famed for its cooking school specialising in Eastern Balinese cuisine. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches along the ridge of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool villas and four valley villas offer superb one-up-manship for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer and a fabulous pavilion restaurant complete this one of a kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues in Ubud. Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-894 6388. www.alilahotels.com/soori Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea and paddy fields, while still maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious

flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas. Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso

Amandari Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat. Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com

with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape. Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities. Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com

coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour in-villa dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature bath amenities.

ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed

Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com Bidadari Private Villas & Retreat Jl. Raya Kelabang Moding

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NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.

Tel: 0361-9000402 www.bidadarivillasubudbali. com Map Ref. G.8 In under one year, Bidadari Private Villas and Retreat, set in the outlying lushness of Ubud, has already garnered no less than 11 ‘excellents’ from Tripadvisor. Sophisticated seclusion on a magical ravine, their five private villas offer sumptuous and distinctive décor and expansive living areas. Panoramic views look out over Nature and are enhanced with horizon-edge pools. The bedrooms and bathrooms are fit for angels no less, as is the spa and meditation area. Fully staffed and cuisined, you will probably find that when it is time to come down from the clouds, a little bit of you will always stay behind. Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com. Casa Luna Honeymoon

Guesthouse Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com. The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest. Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395.

www.baligoodfood.com Cinta Inn has opened behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn.

www.fivelements.org With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other.

COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz Map Ref. A.3 An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como.

Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ sayan/ Map Ref: D.3 Over the past decade the Conde Nast Travel award has consistently been given to this stylish riverside resort. No wonder. With its 42 villas, 18 suites, two restaurants and yes, an award winning spa it is Everybody’s Everything. A Royal villa, Riverview villas and a Riverfront villa balance the 18 suites, which make up the main body of the hotel. Luscious gardens, artfully designed public spaces all overlook the rushing waters of the famous Ayung River.

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206

Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064.

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www.furamavillasandspa.com Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley. Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com

contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice ﬁelds and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns

this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked. Komaneka at Rasa Sayang Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975491 www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Another oasis in the heart of Ubud, this resort is dedicated

Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and

and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel. Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road,

to giving a luxurious and contemporary lifestyle. Thirty spacious, deluxe rooms and two roof-top garden villas allow travelers to savour the tranquility and breathtaking beauty of Ubud. A fine dining restaurant, infinity edge swimming pool and lobby lounge bar puts Rasa Sayang at the top of many-a-list.

Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-978123.

www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence. Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com Kumara Sakti Hotel and Spa Jl. Suweta Tel: 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 This yoga boutique retreat offers outstanding Yoga instruction and excellent calming Ayurvedic treatments. Luscious gardens surround ten rooms, two swimming pools and yoga pavilion. Together they overlook padi fields and a river gorge. Stunningly peaceful, there is little doubt as to why this resort has had so many complimentary Tripadvisor recommendations. Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and

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verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa.

Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back!

joglos, four bedrooms, 25 metre pool, grass tennis court, sculpture garden and the mod cons of satellite TV and Internet connection. So fabulous you won't want leave the property! Excellent for families, excellent for friends.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants).

Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com

Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com

Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com

Puri Tupai Private Garden Villa Jl. Raya Anak Agung Gede Rai, Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-981655 www.puri-tupai.com Chef, housekeeper, 24 hour security guards, 2 watchdogs, 6 squirrels, 83 koi and two turtles. Puri Tupai is heaven on earth with its two traditional

Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com Oka Kartini Bungalows

Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com

Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan. Tel: 0361-973610 www.thesamayabali.com A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chicest valley, Sayan.

Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and riverâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;view property. Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan.

Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it. Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.com Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool.

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Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinesestyle accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists. The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’. The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro.

Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge.com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime.

Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com

The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: D3 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants)

Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as has merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style.

The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi. Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An popular addition to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area.

Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com

Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448.

www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing. Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and

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tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan. Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.

J JEWELRY Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3. Tel: 0361- 971430. Map ref: K.10 www.galaxyanjewels.com The Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons.

the capable hands of Fichot's niece, Chloe... having lived and breathed her uncle's style and talent she is ideally positioned to continue the hand crafted treasures of exquisite taste, style and beauty. Each unique piece is a conversation unto itself. Kapal Laut Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972470 www.kapal-laut.com Map Ref: I.6 With 'simplicity, style and design' as their mantra Kapal Laut has opened their eighth shop in Bali. Elegant and affordable, Kapal Laut designs jewelry and accessories in silver and stainless steel and mixes it up with horn, rubber, pearls, shells amd beads. Definitely a place to shop for gifts!

Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-976084. www.gemalabalisilver.com

Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.com Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes.

JFF Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan 7 Tel: 0361-974652 www.jf-f.com Map Ref.U.9 The JF-F legacy continues in

Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978513. www.yanvan.com Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me,

women too)!

K KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’. KIDS See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.

L LIVE JAZZ Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a

deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails. Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm).

M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.

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N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.

chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also

PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PRIVATE DINING Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 PROPERTY Desa Kerasan

ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.

PHOTOGRAPHY Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com

R RESTAURANTS

P PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a

www.ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? Even Branson has recently bought his plot in Paradise.

Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace.

Tel. 0361-9000566 www.desakerasan.com The opportunity of a lifetime should you wish to buy in Ubud is the upcoming Desa Kerasan. A six home community minutes away from the town centre has been created to offer elegant living with a focus on being green. Priced at under $300k. Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888.

Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-gingerlime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen

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and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna is done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes an excellent virgin wheat grass mojito - though we are sure they will be happy to add a shot of vodka if needed! Ayung Terrace Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Sayan Tel. 0361-977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map Ref. C.2 Whether it’s a light luncheon of fantastic sandwiches, Asian noodles, satays and salads or a gourmand dinner, of say a myriad of Asian-inspired dishes or even steaks and lobsters perfectly cooked on a lava-rock grill, then the view, whilst stunning and romantic, in fact of picture postcard excellence, will not impede the amazing flavours that come from the Four Seasons cuisines. Like with all things of the Four Seasons caliber each dish is a morsel of pure magic from the Island of the gods. Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner)

Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-975489. www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating.

or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm. Beduur Restaurant

Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. The menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable. Betelnut Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref. I.6 Pleasant, airy conservatory filled with palm trees and tressle tables. We love the noodles, satays and salads. Keep your eye open for docofilm nights and live music performances on their indoor stage. Open for lunch, dinner and of course cocktails. Right ooposite the Puri Lukisan Museum, on the main street.

Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975656 www.tepisawahvillas.com Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian

Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at

Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Nicolas Lazzaroni heads up a team of 11 in his kitchen. Lunch menu has delicate salads, pasta dishes and light midday morsels. Dinner is a rather grander affair; Seared Scallops; Tiger Prawn Tempura; Red Pepper Crusted Chicken; Roast Pumpkin Rotolo and the best Filet Mignon this side of a number of bridges! Excellent wine list, wine cellar, a private dining roomand a lovely river view from the open-air terraces.

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Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks - and we mean excellent tenderloin with a choice of 6 luscious sauces - frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables. Both Leefe and Hoefgaarden (famous brands of Belgium beer) are now available for those mid-day heated moments. Lunch is salads, snacks and excellent Indonesian specialities. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook.

CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H.15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley. Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-978631. www.coffeecopper.com A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan. Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night.

GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz

It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. The hand-crafted menu is based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glassaccented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate, bookings are essential! Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72. Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal. Indochine Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel. 0361-972616 www.themansion.com Map Ref. K1 Indochine offers and elegant and intimate atmosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel and Spa.

Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, expats and international travellers alike. Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm.

Indus Restaurant

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Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 This pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973134. Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere. Kebun Jl. Hanoman no. 44A, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-973361.

www.kebunbistro.com Map Ref. N.9 France's most well-known region, Provence, comes to Bali at Kebun. This design bijoux eatery complete with patio, comes with light meals, freshly baked savouries and of course wine! Ubud's most divine space for a tete a tete. Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 The Uma cuisine team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime. ARMA Thai Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www. armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Elegant dining in the oldworld atmosphere of Arma Thai's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax

in the tranquil ARMA Thai Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens. Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential.

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday.

Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait.

Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate.

Little K Jl. Pengosekan Tel: 0361-970992. www.balispirit.com Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also!

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment.

Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake

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A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential.

Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities. Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine. Plantation Dining

finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer. Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery! Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.com Map ref: U.8 Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi

Murni’s Warung Campuhan. Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years. Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic).

Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10

Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the

Bakar Lotus. Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings.

Ryoshi Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on

two levels and tatami seating. Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Neil Harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha. Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/ siam-sally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering. The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern

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luxury glasshouse. Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama. Tel: 8686705 Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others. Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan. Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor!

Gangga Spa at ARMA ARMA Resort Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Open rice field views, fresh breezes and the sound of the river flowing by. Gannga Spa is located in the north corner of ARMA's vast estate. The Back massage is a favourite as is the Gangga signature as is the Balinese Boreh. One of Ubud's top spots to relax far from the madding everything! Spa Bali Botanica Day Spa

youth-enhancing Herbal Botanic Facial. Next the Herbal Body Scrub exfoliates and polishes the skin followed by the Therapeutic Bath and of course our last stop on this day trip is a Creme Bath for the hair. Head to toe your body’s best day out! Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978363. RetreatS Kumara Yoga & Spa Retreats Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 Escape the world and join ONEWORLD retreats at Kumara Sakti. Daily meditation, soft yoga and fabulous spa treatments make this one of the best five days of your life! Non-hotel guests also welcome.

S SPAS

Jl Raya Sanggingan Tel. 0361 976739 Map Ref. A.4 www.balibotanica.com What could be more luxurious than a whole day spent at the spa? Bali Botanica offers a two and a half Chakra Dhara massage. This chakra enhancing treatment is followed by a healthy dejeuner and the fabulous,

Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Bookings essential. Four Seasons Resort Bali Sayan Ridge Tel. 0361 977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map Ref. D.3 Simply named “SPA”, this riverside corporal and spiritual haven applies ancient

Balinese, Javanese, Ayurvedic and Indian techniques to one of the world’s most popular relaxation practices. Hot river stones “smoothed by centuries of rushing waters of the Ayung River” which this spa overlooks, are used in this most popular of treatments. Up next is ‘Champi’, an Indian head, neck and shoulder massage, including earlobes, that almost sends one to Nirwana. The massages are like anything done with a Four Seasons touch, professional, exquisite and quite extraordinary. For a unique ‘privacy meets luxury’ memory book into one of the three elegant spa villas. KUSH Jl Hanoman. Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone! Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2

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Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime... Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men.

Skin Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24. Tel: 0361 975 615 www.ubudskinorganic.com Petite, authentic skin spa on Goutama, Ubud's up-andcoming 'chic street'. Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan. Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com Ubud's most amazing day spa - without a doubt! Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan. Telp: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.

Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.

U UDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.

V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world. Vet international Tel: 754881 www.vet-international.com Pooches n pussies are breathing a sigh of relief knowing that the V.I. team are on hand 24/7 for all and any health issues. These include dentistry, vaccinations, paw-pedicure, health checks,

T TEXTILES Macan Tidur

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ultrasounds, digital X-ray, isolation wards and an inhouse laboratory. They also do major and minor operations - shh, I did not say neutering did I? Ouch! Fluent English speaking staff, ambulance plus its internationally owned and managed...

W WALKING

www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate

Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way

among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka. com

ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment.

you decide to go.

WILDLIFE

Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned

Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark.com

Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing. WEDDINGS Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888.

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. www.uma.como.bz

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Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi Cultural Workshops Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742. www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Authentic cultural workshops that will expand your knowledge and love of Bali and all the unique facets of its intricate culture and religion. A definite must if you are on a cultural tour. Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman.

Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com

Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES

hide-away for contemplation, yoga…” and the positive comments continue. Kumara has been hosting some of the most successful yoga retreats in Ubud for a few years now and reaping some of the most complimentary write-ups on TripAdvisor. So rather than us tell you about it, we suggest looking up this five-star rated retreat on the big TA and reading about it for yourself.

Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00

The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com Map Ref: O.10 Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali.

a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz

Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org The Sacred Childhoods Foundation Supporting some of the most vulnerable & impoverished children in Indonesia. donations@ sacredchildhoods.org www.sacredchildhoods.org YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan. Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow.com Kumara Retreat Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 “This retreat was everything I hoped for…”, “lovely Bali

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan

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Performance Schedules

SUNDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7

MONDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo

7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00

I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –

TUESDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7

WEDNESDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana

Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30

I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7

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Performance Schedules

THURSDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30

I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10

FRIDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women's Gamelan

Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30

I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7

SATURDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00

I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10

EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

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HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361 - 971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10 Vet International Tel: 0361 - 754881 www.vet-international.com P. 61 HOTELS Alila Ubud Tel: 0361- 975963 www.alilahotels.com P. 1 Bud Map A.2 Arma Resort Tel: 0361- 976659 www.armabali.com P. 11 Bud Map W.10 Four Seasons Tel: 0361- 977577 ext 8222 www.fourseasons.com P. 5/7 Bud Map D.3 Maya Ubud Tel: 0361- 977888 www.mayaubud.com P. 3 Bud Map L.18 MEDIA The Yak Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.theyakmag.com P. 69 The Bud Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.thebudmag.com IBC RESTAURANT / BAR

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NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud

Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Betelnut Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur

Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Kebun Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally Taman Hati

Tegal Sari Terazzo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud Wina Gallery

THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.

to Como Shambhala, Alila & Komaneka

KUPU KUPU Naka Gallery Payangan BARONG Kusia Gallery AMANDARI Minami UMA UBUD Biasa Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum INDUS Mozaic

A B C D

Paul R

Gaya Gallery The Shop FOUR SEASONS Ayung Terrace

E F

KAYU MANIS to Fivelements to The Samaya Horizon Glassworks

Sayan

KEY

THE VICEROY BALI Cascades

Art gallery

Monkey forest

Temple

Automatic teller

Museum

HOTEL/VILLA

Bridge

One way street

Restaurant/Bar

BEBEK TEPI SAWAH RESTAURANT & VILLAS

Dance theatre

Place of interest

Bar/Nightclub

Deer pen

Police station

Shop

THE CHEDI CLUB

Information

Post office

Spa/Salon

Money changer

Sports field

Misc.

PITA MAHA

opp

UBUD

THE MANSION Sayan Aesthetic

VILLA KIRANA

Tegalalang

Tanah Gajah

Rudana Museum Mas Tony Raka Gallery

.5km

1km

1.5km

JL. RAYA ANDONG

UNG

SAY A)

JL. JE

I (JL . PEL IATA N)

MBAW AN

JL. W ANA

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JL. C OK G D

JL. S

RA W ANA

UKM A (T

(MON

EBE

KEY F

JL.

ORES

AD RO

T RO AD)

MA N

JL. SUGRIW A

JL.

Bar LuGnOOTAMA a

Bat Alaman Waru kara

JL. JE

ROG AND

JL. TIR TA TA WAR

JL. SAN DAT

JL. SRI W EDARI

JL. SU

JL. B

ISM A

N NA TA

JL. K

ES EN .P

AJE

Kapal laut Lotus

Ubud Kaja TEGALALANG 10km To Bidadari Villas UBUD SARI WARWICK IBAH TARO 16km Localista Threads of Life KINTAMANI 22km THE VICEROY BALI Bali Botanica Han Rio Helmi Cafe H Cascades Snel Terazo Seniman Bridges Bali Art Puri Lukisan To Elephant JL. Zoo Bumbu Bali I Safari Park RAY Murni’s Ibu Oka AU Blanco Warung Taman Klod To Desa White BUD I The Round Renaissance Betelnut Kerasan Box Rendezvous Bar 6:0 Museum Casa Luna 018: Gusti Lempad’s Ary’s Warung NATURA Andong 0 Seniwati Gallery 0 Periplus J Super RESORT of Art by Women Market Galaxyan Atelier WAKA NAMYA Kupu Kupu Ubud Klod Foundation Gallery Infinity Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Gallery Market K Property Highway Pura Gunung Sari Place Exotiq Sagu Cafe Des FNPF MAYA Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Galaxyan UBUD Adi’s Art Studio & Tidur JL. COK PUTRA S. I Atelier SAR UNG Gallery GUN JL. Pura L Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe KOMANEKA SITA Sukma BISMA Skin Organic Tutmak Bali M Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Anjaly Cat Juice Bar MONKE Bali Y FO ENTRANCE N RES Milano T Alamkara Bodyworks UBUD VILLAGE Lamak Kebun HOTEL O ENTRANCE Bali Spirit Cafe Wayan Bumbu Bali II Tegun Pura Prajapati sisi + nanan Greenhouse The Kafe Cemetary KOMANEKA AT KOMANEKA P RASA SAYANG Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Tama Gallery Tebesaya Cinta UBUD INN Q Verona Padang Tegal Piment Rouge Pura Horizon Dalem Glassworks R Agung Coffee & Silver Dirty Duck Temple Peliatan Crop/Indigo RONG G JL. SE

Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper

Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak Laka Leke

Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus

Nyuh Kuning

Siam Sally Cafe Agung Rai ARMA Museum of Art

JL.

Agung Rai Gallery

Pengosekan

APENGOSEKA RAY N

ARMA RESORT

JFF

Hanna Art Space

NGOSEKAN

JL. RAYA PE

Dangin Lebak

DENPASAR 26km via MAS

UBUD VILLAGE RESORT JL. NYUH KUNING

To Genta Gallery

To Tony Raka Gallery

To Puri Tupai

Rudana Rudana Museum

ART

[potheads] By Drew Corridore

She’s from Malaysia, he’s from Australia, and together they’re getting their hands dirty in order to create things of beauty. Drew Corridore catches up with Loo Jia Wen and Gyan Wall to find out about the art of making fine ceramics.

Jia Wen.

art

Gyan.

In a laneway near Sayan, Ubud, lies a workshop festooned with electric wheels, a kiln that is reminiscent of Star Wars’ Jabba the Hut, and a plethora of objet d’art in various stages of completion. Working away, kneading the clay, is a young man called Gyan from Bendigo, Australia, who came to Bali to further his understandings about the alchemic mysteries of making ceramics. Kuala Lumpur-born Jia Wen sits in the background spinning up a simple but elegantly shaped pot. Together, and with help from a team of others, they recently built the wood-fired kiln which had to be fed every five minutes or so over a three-day period in order that the interior might become properly cured. They worked eighthour shifts around the clock to bring the fire-breather into existence. “This kind of kiln comes from the ancient Japanese ceramic culture . . . the wood firing process produces a certain aesthetic,” Gyan says. “It’s a natural glazing technique – as opposed to applying a glaze and melting it in a gas or electric kiln. In the wood kiln you can put pots in that are unglazed and have the fire . . . the wood ash deposits on the piece and melts to form a glaze . . . and the atmosphere forms different sorts of results. “Basically it’s a lot more uncontrollable but it produces an aesthetic that is much more natural and organic. It began in Japan as part of the Zen philosophy of appreciating natural beauty. “I see it as a co-creation in the sense that you don’t have full control . . . you’re using the natural elements to create something that has a rustic, earthy feel.” Gyan’s interest and background has always been with ceramic art and sculpture. Jia Wen, on the other hand, comes from a rather different place – being a graphic designer and copywriter. She took up potting as a hobby and sold her wares at various art markets in her hometown. “While I’m here I’m enjoying the opportunity to spend more time with the clay and always learning new things about how to work with it,” Jia Wen says. “I love the clay because the end result is 3-D and it’s also functional. I can make things that I want to use . . . things I like to have . . . “But it’s also about touch – using my fingers to make something whereas, doing the work I do, which is mainly on the computer, can feel a bit sterile. I really enjoy the

contact . . . the tactile experience working with clay gives me. “. . . and there’s always the surprise that comes when a piece is fired and finished . . . it’s always unexpected and beautiful – you have to learn to accept whatever comes out.” Most of the raw materials are sourced in Indonesia – either dug out of the ground as clay or blended in powder form with water, and mixed in a machine resembling a giant bread-dough mixer. Specialist raw materials for porcelain are sourced by Gaya Ceramics from all over the world. Gyan is well travelled in the Asian and South-East Asian regions, Jia Wen is from a big city, and both being relative newcomers to the Ubud ‘hood, it’s always interesting to get some fresh eyes on the attractions of our place. “It’s really nice – the days go by really easily,” Jia Wen says. “. . . and it’s a luxury having all the resources here so I can learn more about what I love doing.” Gyan says: “I’m enjoying it a lot – Ubud is an international hub for arts and music and most of the things I’m into. It’s nice to be in this (Balinese) culture where there is such a devotion to the arts . . . they’re some of the best craftspeople in the world. “There’s such a diverse focus on creating beauty in a very natural way.” Jia Wen and Gyan are both yoga practitioners and into Kiertan devotional music evenings which – and this is a new one for me – are staged regularly in Ubud. The intermingling of cultures and cultural pursuits that occurs here is, once again, affirmed . . . and what makes this part of what can often be a chaotic world so special. “I like the slower pace here. I like walking in the paddy fields – no one walks in KL – and I’m learning to ride a motorbike . . .” Jia Wen says. All we can say to that is: Jia Wen, take care and keep the rubber on the road. www.gayaceramic.com

food

Ubud Hanging Gardens may not be quite as legendary as the Babylonian vintage, but they do have the key advantages of still existing and serving a mean guava sorbet...Robert Wolf soaks up the atmosphere.

If you happen to be planning an outing to Ubud Hanging Gardens, I’d like to recommend one very important first step: when planning your route, completely ignore Google Maps. I diligently researched the location and set off merrily, my dining companion and resident wine expert Alex in tow, in pursuit of dinner. Although we enjoy a very pleasant drive past some of the glorious scenery that lies north of the centre of Ubud, it soon becomes apparent that we aren’t getting any closer to our intended destination. A quick phone call leads to a much-needed course correction, and we set off in entirely the opposite direction to the one in which Google Maps pointed us. Fortunately, Ubud Hanging Gardens proves well worth the effort it takes to find. The setting, perched on mountainous terrain above dense jungle, is nothing short of jaw-dropping. We see it first from across the valley; a mysterious, softly-lit presence that promises mystery and refinement. As we follow the distinctly battered road, it swoops first downwards then back upwards, depositing us finally at the gate. Of all the features I’d be tempted to include if I were designing a top-class hotel, I must admit that a cable car wouldn’t be high on the list. At least, it wouldn’t have been prior to my visit to Ubud Hanging Gardens. Now I’m convinced that a cable car is an essential facet of any luxury dining experience. Naturally, Alex and I find it necessary to sample the slow descent rather than take the stairs. We’re there for dinner, so we actually miss out on experiencing the full vista. In daylight, the view across the valley must be spectacular. Villas, restaurants, and an infinity-edge pool give way to dense jungle and, across the valley, a traditional Balinese temple. Chef Lek later informs us that the

occasional lucky couple wins the opportunity to have a meal served in the environs of the temple. As the night draws on, it is bathed in a delicate light that gives it an otherworldly, almost mystical air. Extremely affable about our delayed arrival, Chef Lek welcomes us warmly and offers us drinks and nibbles. The hotel smokes its own salmon for the delicately-flavoured crostini. The lawar is less pungent than most I’ve tried on Bali, while still retaining a zing. Born and trained in Thailand, Chef Lek worked in Bangkok and the Maldives prior to arriving on Bali. When the previous executive chef left to start a family, Lek got the call and has been running the show for the past six months. He’s spent a fair portion of that time exploring the cuisine of the island and absorbing the new flavours. His face lights up as he tells us how the basic ingredients in Balinese cooking are very similar to those used in Thai cuisine, but that they’re used in very different ways. Humble and friendly, I get the sense that he’s excited about all the new influences he’s integrating into his work. We chat for a while with Chef Lek about his cooking philosophy. He likes to be innovative in his approach, and discusses the perfect length of time to hang meat with us. That said, he’s keen to ensure that the basic flavours of the food shine through, and that the different elements of a dish work well together. Although he baulks a bit at my suggestion that he perceives the creation of each dish as a work of art – the metaphor seems to sum up his attitude quite effectively. One of our starters, in fact, is presented on a tray in the shape of an artist’s palette. Three cornets of Tasmanian salmon tartar, served with mango, madras curry, mustard

Rosemary's baby.

food

Furnley scallops.

oil, Vietnam coriander, poppy seeds, Indonesian lemon cream, salmon caviar, and prawn lemongrass, accompanied by a tom yam bisque soup. The flavours combine superbly, creating a rich, fruity concoction. It’s so good that Alex struggles to resist the temptation to bite off the bottom of the cornets and suck the tartar out from underneath. The soup makes a great spicy counterpoint, cutting through the richness of the tartar beautifully. Now, I must admit that I’ve never fully understood the appeal of scallops. Nonetheless, I’m intrigued by the trio that makes up my starter, each one prepared uniquely. The sharpness of the grilled scallop with lemongrass and fennel salad tickles my tastebuds nicely, as does the panseared scallop with creamy mushroom sauce. I’m a little less enamoured of the half-cooked ceviche with cucumber carpaccio, but my (clearly more cultured) compadre laps it up. For main course, I opt for one of the chef’s inspirations. These change daily, adding variety to the main menu which shifts on a seasonal basis. The lamb loin Pojarski is cooked in natural jus and served with whiskey barrel smoked, braised red cabbage, Kintamani apple and mint sauce, and pearl vegetables. Alex plumps for roasted Balinese suckling pig, marinated in babi guling spices with young carrot, lady apple, red radish, pork sausage, Asian mushrooms, pig trotter’s dumpling, and natural jus with mirin. The lamb is sweet and tender, the vegetables constantly surprising. Alex and I play a game of guessing what they are, and it would be fair to say that we probably don’t figure them all out. Some are crunchy, some are sweet; it’s enjoyable to be introduced to Balinese ingredients that I might otherwise not have been aware of. The suckling pig is one of the highlights of the meal, falling apart under the slightest pressure of a fork and ~ clichéd though it may be to say so ~ melting in the mouth. The wines that the waiter suggests to accompany our meal, the Shearwater pinot grigio with the starters and the Teddy Hall shiraz cabernet with the mains, work well. Alex has recently spent time in some high-end establishments in Shanghai, and notes that the quality of the selections and the knowledge of the waiter in Ubud Hanging Gardens definitely surpass those of the staff in China. The list is small, but put together with care to ensure that the wine partners the dishes being served effectively. Though tempted by the cheese selection (it’s not often that I get good-quality French cheese in Bali), Alex

and I both decide to conclude our dinners with dessert. He orders a trio of desserts (berries salad with basil jelly, crème fraiche lime sorbet, and churros, warm Valrhona chocolate fondant with vanilla bean ice cream, and lemon Verbena crème brulée with pineapple vanilla chutney). I keep it simple with a scoop each of raspberry ginger sorbet and guava sorbet. Alex seems particularly satisfied with the crème brulée. I’m virtually orgasmic over the guava sorbet. It’s incredibly aromatic and fresh, so much so that I feel as though I might almost be eating fresh guava straight off the tree. Before we depart, I sip a peppermint tea and Alex nurses a Glenlivet. The sounds of the jungle reach us through the open sides of the restaurant, and a gentle breeze cools us. The waiting staff, who have been immaculately attentive throughout, withdraw to allow us a few minutes of digestion and companionship. Finally, we drag ourselves away from the serenity of Ubud Hanging Gardens and back towards the hustle and bustle of the town. . . the imprint of that magical valley lingering long after we leave it for more workaday surroundings.

Signature sweet.

Andrew Hall looks back on the life of an old friend. “Hey buddy, time for a beer!” . . . was a call that lured droves of visitors to Ubud into an experience they would never forget. Some would glance at their watches (a beer at 10.30 in the morning?) or consult the Lonely Planet, and either walk on – rather faster than they had been perambulating previously – or cautiously cross the road from the Neka art museum in Sanggingan to be greeted by a portly New Yorker with a bushy beard, who would whistle up a round. Sitting on his bench with one arm hooked over the back, and the other gripping a pot of ale – first table on the left – Brian Aldinger would conduct the introductions . . . there were invariably at least a couple of regulars sitting with him . . . and thus would begin the newcomers’ induction to Ubud’s iconic pub and grub joint, Naughty Nuri’s. Many of the new arrivals could still be found where they had landed – the day’s sightseeing agenda having been abandoned in favour of drinking, eating, talking, laughing, sometimes singing – at closing time; having outlasted several shifts of expat revellers who frequented “our table”. Amongst the thousands who attended Aldinger’s Altar were superstar chef (and renowned lover of libation) Anthony Bourdain, and Hollywood action star, Dolf Lundgren – who introduced us to a subtly vicious little number that, to this day, is named in his honour. Visitors would often be entertained and regaled by local legend, bird man, author, and raconteur, Victor Mason, whose bawdy verse sometimes shocked, but more often left people in stitches . . . at all times enthusiastically punctuated by Brian’s . . . “Bang, Bang, Bang.” Brian was the hub of an unwieldy wheel of characters (who have settled here over the years) from whom visitors would receive, mostly unsolicited, advice on matters as diverse as the dos and don’ts of being on Bali, politics, personal growth, and much, much more. Brian was a kindly, generous, and gentle man. He came to Bali from Africa – where he spent a number of years working in America’s Peace Corps – met his wife-to-be, Nuri, and together (in 1995) they set up a little roadside warung; ostensibly aimed at serving backpackers. Little did they know at the time that this ramshackle

building would become the stuff of legend – storied in numerous publications including The New York Times. Brian was often heard to say: “In the early days we’d be lucky to sell a nasi goreng or two and a couple of cans of Sprite a day . . .” But with their business acumen and Brian’s magnetic personality (and gift of the gab derived from the fact that his family roots lay in Ireland) this little way station with its roadside barbeque (an original concept that has now become ubiquitous in Ubud) became a gravitational institution for the local expat community. We gathered on Thursday nights for a freshly caught tuna that had been sliced and diced into sashimi and steaks . . . for conviviality, and to chug down Brian’s notorious New York martinis – a bucket of gin or vodka with olives or a twist. Many of us had our experiential horizons expanded after two or three of those . . . The modest project that began as something for a pair of newlyweds to do together on Bali grew into a brand that has gone on to become a franchise. Throughout the inexorable growth of the business – to a point where people would (and still do) queue on the sidewalk waiting for a place to sit – Brian remained, Brian; humourous and humble (despite the fact that he is arguably the most photographed publican in history). He is prominent in literally thousands of people’s holiday snaps. As much as he is prominent in the hearts of those of us who loved him. Brian Kenneth Aldinger left us on August 27th . . . way too soon. Our heartfelt condolences go out to Nuri, and daughters Maggie Dewi, Tanti, Arum, and Witri, his family in New York, and to the hundreds here and throughout the world who called him friend. Goodbye old mate, rest in peace, and rest assured that you will never be far from our thoughts. Postscript: In a sad adjunct to Brian’s departure, his lovely mother, Catherine, whom many of us had the pleasure of meeting during Bali trips to visit her son, passed away only a matter of hours after Brian’s funeral. We trust that you both are out there together somewhere sharing a huge joke at our expense . . .

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