The Bud #13 by The Bud & KUBAN Magazine

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali

Volume 13 - JULY/AUG/SEPT 2012

walter spies tandjung sari puppets kites deep trivia run aways

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ARMA distills the finest of Balinese art and culture, allowing you to discover the uniqueness of Balinese traditional culture to indulge yourself in the luxurious accommodations and pamper your sense with the flavours and aromas of a wide selection of delicious cuisines.

Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud, P.O Box 9696 Bali 80571, Indonesia Phone : (62-361) 976659, Fax : (62-361) 975332 Website : www.armabali.com E-Mail : info@armabali.com, sales@armabali.com

Volume Thirteen JULY/AUG/SEPT 2012

The Bud Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa Indri Raranta sales & marketing Ellys Eryani Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri Teuku Melody Super Stu Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher P.T. Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 On the cover: Walter Spies, 1919, by Hugo Erfurth. Courtesy of Leo and Walter Spies Archive, Berlin.

Advertising enquiries Tel/Fax: (+62 361) 8446341, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.thebudmag.com The Bud Magazine Bali. Email: info@thebudmag.com Canggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Luxury In Print yPod Bali V.2.3 – The Yak and Bud Magazines' iPhone App featuring the best places to go in Ubud and beyond – is available from the App. Store.

coming soon to a venue near you in September.

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Out of the box Love and light Front up New and noted legacies Jean-Franรงois Fichot profile Torro's world FEATURE Galungan Cometh FEATURE Puppet Play feature Walter Spies the list Guidezine goodness deep trivia Wood Food Tepi Sawah Food Gridlock-Free Dining

Coffee Break.

Respite Bean Counter retrospective The Tanjung Sari causes Eco Tourism Culture Kites passions David's Desa runaways Dog Day Afternoon

Galungan & Kuningan.

Greetings and salutations friends. We hope this issue finds you hale, hearty, and loving life. Approaching the lives we live with love and peace in our hearts is the only way to offset the various madnesses that are abroad in our world. We view with grief and pain the misery being inflicted upon innocents in Syria by a man (and his militias) who is obviously delusional, and jealously, callously, clinging to power. Another conflict that is being buried under a mountain of mumbojumbo politics on the world stage. We all know the saying: Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely. It is the same with jealousy, as our Runaways correspondent discovered to his cost. But we can be inspired by the story of Walter Spies — whose love for Bali and its peoples retains a power and majesty, 70 years after he was lost to the corporeal and aesthetic worlds. His story is within. We can be inspired by the dedication and love that Hadi Sunyoto and friends have for preserving the past, in the hope that it can inspire future generations to appreciate the magical art of mask-making and puppetry. Hadi’s Setia Darma museum is a must-see destination for anyone interested in the archaic arts of communication. On this journey we also look at the love and sheer joy that

Balinese people derive from the ancient art of kite flying . . . and Wolf Roberts takes us on a trip into the heart of the festivals of Galungan and Kuningan. The notion and substance of eco-tourism is put under the microscope by our wonderful new contributor, Stephanie Mee, who also tantalizes us with the titillating offerings from the kitchen at Tepi Sawah Village. Welcome Stephanie . . . and welcome Wolf to our little family. Old friend David Collins tells us about transitions and boundaries that must be crossed to achieve peace and harmony in the places we live. Darling Diana gets a woody, and moves us with her investigations into the elemental nature of being . . . and shares with us the experience of writing a new book about the history of one of the island’s iconic hotels, the Tandjung Sari. Delightful, informative, interesting . . . a labour of love. In Front Up you can check out some of the hip places to visit to satisfy hearty appetites; and further in we drift away on the aromatic wings of freshly roasted coffee at Seniman — Ubud’s newest and grooviest coffee studio. So dip a toe in our magical pond and let the ripples reach out and touch all who truly believe that the world can, indeed, be a beautiful place to live in.

Localista A relatively recent phenomenon in Ubud, the Localista Café initially opened in late 2011 as an adjunct to the Rio Helmi Photo Gallery on Jl. Suweta. The gallery is owned by Indonesian photographer, and nearly-40-year Bali resident, Rio Helmi. Localista pays a lot of attention not only to quality but also to ensuring that as much local produce as possible is used. The cupcakes are fast becoming legendary with this sidewalk café delivering as far as Seminyak & Sanur. Free Wi-Fi (naturally) and daily newspapers (International Herald Tribune, The Jakarta Post, Kompas) for those who still like to read their news in print make Localista the perfect hangout for hikers back from the rice fields, and shoppers who want to get out of the main street hustle. Now it seems like the gallery has become an adjunct to the café. www.localistacafe.com Map ref. G.8

Kenanga Boutique Hotel A brand new boutique hotel is open for business only five minutes drive from the heart of Ubud, in the village of Lungsiakan. Kenanga Boutique Hotel offers an outstanding level of hospitality, luxuriant rice field panoramas, full-body pampering, and a sensuous swimming experience. All 15 rooms and bungalows are designed with an elegant mixture of contemporary styling and vernacular architecture. Kenanga’s Terracotta restaurant offers authentic Indonesian and western cuisine with the freshest ingredients from their farm in Bedugul, and rice from the Lungsiakan rice fields. The restaurant is open every day from seven a.m. to 11 p.m. Kenanga Spa offers guests traditional massage, and treatments with all-natural home made ingredients to invigorate and emancipate tired bodies and happy souls, alike. www.kenangaubud.com

Dijon Café Ubud Dijon Café Ubud has already attracted many old Dijon customers keen to try the new location just up the hill from famous Naughty Nuri’s in Sanggingan. Not as crowded as downtown locations, and close to the road home for those venturing up from ‘the city’, the café serves many of the original Dijon favorites such as quesadillas, grilled sandwiches and the well-known Dave’s Big Veggie Salad, it is also open for dinner with a new menu of evening choices. Appetizers include Pan Seared Scallops with Red Onion Confit and Rucolla Salad, and Chicken Stuffed with Green Olives with Salad, while main dishes feature favourites like Braised Lamb Shanks with Garlic and Spinach Mash or Duck Confit with Baby Potatoes and Mixed Vegetables. And, of course, there are the delicious Dijon desserts. www.dijon-bali.com

Café des Artiste Legend has it that the warring Tatars placed slabs of raw meat under the saddles of their horses so when they had a break from a goodly day of melée and butchery the raw meat would be nicely minced and could be consumed easily and quickly . . . a nice protein hit for the rampaging of the next day. Thankfully things are a little more tranquil at Ubud’s Café des Artistes with its understated elegance, openness and ambient comfort. We were there for the meat – the Steak Tartare, which, these days, is prepared under considerably more hygienic circumstances, and must be pre-ordered the day before. The Belgian version of the dish at this amiable eatery comes in the form of a chilled, minced tenderloin patty upon which is placed a free-range raw egg on the half-shell . . . to be thoroughly mixed, and eaten with a range of condiments and sauces. Café des Artistes lays on a range of dressings to provide underlying flavour to the textural element, which is the steak’s domain. An elegant side platter provides the rest: French mustards; mayonnaise; paprika; and finely diced onion salads, garlic, and pickle. It is the ultimate mix and match meal with sweet and savory sensations competing for your attention and catering for your individual tastes. The portions of this meal that has such a rich history (and not just in timeline terms) are generous indeed – easily shared by two or more as a prelude to some of the other meaty classics served by Café des Artistes. www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map ref. K.5 Chedi Club General Manager of The Chedi Club, Tanah Gajah, Simon Spiller, is pleased to announce the appointment of Khairudin ‘Dean’ Nor as the property’s new Executive Chef. Dean brings a wealth of experience to The Chedi Club, having come from the renowned Saint Pierre restaurant in Singapore, where he was Sous Chef. In 2007, Saint Pierre was awarded Best Restaurant of the Year by the World Gourmet Summit; and 2008 brought inclusion in the Relais & Châteaux group, an exclusive collection of fine hotels and famed gourmet restaurants spread through more than 60 countries. Dean is a native Singaporean, and coming from an island renowned for its cultural affinity with good food, he is keen to bring a lot of new ideas to the Chedi Club – and incorporate fine dining and Asian-influenced elements to the property’s Western and Balinese Food & Beverage concept. The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah, Ubud, is a member of Leading Hotels of the World. www.GHMhotels.com Map ref. F.7

Design Crop Pamela Cochrane is designcrop’s gem. Her cool and ultracontemporary jewellery is not only stylish, but contains eco-twists galore. Her exclusive designs have been showcased in well-known collections on international runways – a ‘less-is-more’ design style influenced by her early years in Japan and Italy. Pamela’s designs are a personal reflection on the rhythms and cycles of nature – earth-friendly conscious, limited edition designcrop eco-range pieces are hand crafted using natural dyes and reused, recycled bits and bobs. In designcrop’s commitment to eco-friendliness and fair trade there is no trade-off between elegance, exclusivity, and excellent taste. designcrop@yahoo.com Map ref. R.6

Piment Rouge Piment Rouge Lighting & Interiors (established since 1995 in Bali) is privileged to be part of this inspirational world of the Ubud artistic community. It opened its Ubud store on the Monkey Forest road in 2009 and since then tourists, expatriates and locals have come to see all that we offer – seeking treasures like unique lamps, bed linen, and decorative items. Piment Rouge Ubud also supplies interiors to the beautiful villas in the surrounding area with ever changing new designs, as well as providing renowned personalised design consulting service. The store is located just up the hill from the Monkey Forest Tel: 0361 977 983 www. pimentrougelighting.com Map ref. R.6

Arma Spa Your stay at ARMA Resort would not be complete if you don’t try our Spa services – for that feeling of relaxed serenity. Gangga Spa is a special place located in an intimate corner of the property near the ARMA Temple and ARMA Museum, and conveniently close to our coffee shop, Warung Kopi. The treatment spaces are open to rice field views – with fresh airflow, and sounds of running water on the riverbank. All the atmospherics you need to deep cleanse your mind, body and spirit. Open to non-hotel guests. www.armabali.com Map ref. W.9

legacies

chloe rappy reflects on the life and times of her uncle jean-franÇois. . .

Jean-François Fichot (1948–2011) was a French designer whose gifts blossomed in Asia. He began wandering eastwards in the late 1960s – as soon as he’d graduated from the École des Beaux Arts in Lyon – tracing the old trade routes of the Silk Road. He traveled close to the ground, exploring bazaars and back streets, soaking up the smoke of cooking fires and incense, inhaling the prayers of the lands he visited. Collecting the pocket-sized treasures he found — be they precious or merely mysterious. Jean-François was particularly sensitive to the ancient civilisations of the lands he traveled through – as if he could hear the old songs of Persia and Bactria in the landscape. Sometimes he settled for a while. He stayed for several years in Goa, and then moved on to South-east Asia, to Malaysia and Thailand, and then in 1976 to the vast, rich mystery of Indonesia, where he discovered the island of Bali. In 1978 he decided to make Bali his home. There he found a piece of land on the outskirts of Ubud and proceeded to build a house and a studio. On the slopes of his land (accessible only by crossing a foot bridge over a steep river gorge) he created a fabulous garden. Jean-François, the inveterate collector of treasure, was also a collector of plants. Over time his garden became a grand botanical park. In this deep tropical tranquility, JeanFrançois gathered around him a small group of Balinese craftsmen and began designing and producing one-ofa-kind jewelry pieces for which he would soon become internationally renowned. He also made playfully luxurious objets d’art. As if to balance the impact of his success, Jean-François became a student of Buddhism, while his Balinese Hindu household enfolded him in the island’s own sumptuous ritual rhythms. He was a big handsome man who seemed to have hundreds of friends wherever he went in the world. Jean-François Fichot’s design philosophy must be

divined from his works: he did not pontificate about his art. At most, if you pressed him about it, he would say, “it’s about love”. But there is a signature design coherence — an ingenious combining of elements; often organic or antique materials he collected on his travels — with 22k gold, sterling silver, and gemstones. His jewelry is always elegantly balanced, even as it conducts a primal, totemic power. He was intrigued by the concept among tribal peoples of jewelry as a talisman, at once representing and protecting the soul. Jean-François Fichot’s ability to transform his extravagant sense of beauty into wearable art had reached a point of exquisite ripeness when he died in a car crash in Cuba in 2011. His design tradition lives on in the hands of his studio craftsmen and in the vision of Chloe Rappy, his niece, whom he designated his creative heir just six months before his untimely death. The beauty lives on in a galaxy of works in gold. Chloe is now head of JFF, having learned about the business during the four years she served as its marketing director. “The JFF brand continues to stay the course in the spirit of Jean-François, creating beautiful new works, holding international exhibitions, and opening new sales venues. Jean-François has entrusted me with his legacy, which I respect and honor. I will continue to share it with connoisseurs and collectors around the world,” Chloe says. “We create one-of-kind jewelry and objets d’art of exceptional opulence and originality. The works are distinguished by richness of materials, often used in startling combinations; an exuberant use of color; impeccable craftsmanship; and a totemic, rather magical quality.” The company remains based in Ubud. The JFF flagship gallery and showroom at Jalan Raya Pengosekan No.7 in Ubud was inaugurated in 2010.

Right: Jean-François, life, times & designs.

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profile

. . . has won the poster competition for the UWRF for the past two years. He gets Buddy with us. . .

Torro...may we call you that? Sure. Torro is my name in the virtual world. Otherwise Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m known as Ruang Imagi. My real name is Subiyantoro. Tell us a bit about where you are from, how old you are and how your grew up... I come from a village on the outskirts of Yogyakarta, Indonesia. A village where I can slow down time without fear of traffic jams. I am 27-yearsold. I come from a farming family. When did you first start to draw and illustrate? The first time I drew I was five years old. My brother also shares a love of drawing, and he helped me. At first we both dreamed of becoming architects. My brother actually became an architect, while I continued to pursue design and illustration. We still exchange ideas about drawing. How would you describe your style, at the moment? I tend not to specify a particular style in my work, because I think it can be limiting. For now I'm interested in exploring Indonesian culture, not only in illustration, but in film and video too. How did you hear about the UWRF poster competition? I saw it on the internet, on a site about graphic design in Indonesia. You have a very modern take on some fairly traditional themes...does that reflect your outlook to life? My environment, the place where I live, inspires my work. I guess I exist somewhere between the old and the new, the traditional and the modern. Are you working as a commercial illustrator? Yes, my main job is as a freelance graphic designer and illustrator. I work for a lot of local and international clients, mostly in the publishing industry. Is all your work for sale, or are their some pieces you really wouldn't part with? Yes, all the work that I display on www.ruangimagi.deviantart.com is commercial. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s some personal work there too that is ready to be collected if you want it! What are you currently working on? I'm working on a book cover, but my long-term dream is to build an arts institute for children who want to learn fine art. It would be free. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for your time Torro, and best of luck! You're welcome. Good luck always to The Bud magazine. Cheers.

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On an island where ceremonies are a way of life, the cycle marking the death of the legendary tyrant Mayadenawa is one of the most fascinating, vibrant, and inspiring. Wolf Roberts takes a crash course in the history, meaning, and possible future of Galungan and Kuningan. images: tjokorda gus kerthyasa captures this stuggle between light & dark.

It’s fair to say that the Balinese calendar can be a little confusing for the uninitiated. First of all, there are two, rather than one. The first, the Saka, is roughly equivalent to the Gregorian calendar most of us know so well, although it’s based on lunar rather than solar cycles. This explains why Nyepi, for example, falls on a slightly different day each year. The other, the Pawukon, bears little relationship to any way I’ve ever conceived of measuring the date. A 210-day cycle, with weeks of differing lengths each bearing a urip, or ritual value, it remains a near-total mystery to me. The Balinese believe that aspects of the characters of their children are determined by the day on which they are born; one friend of mine informed me solemnly that her daughter was considered ‘dangerous’ by dint of her birthdate. Judging by the fact that the three-year-old in question has a tendency to throw knives around when she doesn’t get her own way, her mother might have a point. I digress. The dates of Galungan and Kuningan are determined by the Pawukon calendar, which is why it

falls on such radically different days each (Gregorian) year. They always fall 10 days apart — Galungan on a Wednesday and Kuningan on the Saturday of the following week. The entire cycle spans 17 days, incorporating several days spent in preparation for the main festivities. The forthcoming celebrations in August and September will be the second time the gods have graced us with their presence in 2012 — they also dropped by in February. “Gods?” you may ask. Why yes. The purpose underlying all the merrymaking and ceremony is to mark the victory of good over evil, life over death, fertility over barrenness. Legend has it that a great king named Mayadenawa became excessively powerful and neglectful of his people and of the land. Although disease and misery was rife, no one dared to counter his decrees on account of his magical powers. Fortunately Mpu Kulputih, a priest who felt great compassion for the plight of the Balinese, amassed a divine army from India to battle Mayadenawa. After considerable struggle, the tyrant fell and prosperity returned to Bali.

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Once every 210 days, Galungan marks that victory and the descent of the Gods to Earth, bringing numerous blessings. It’s a way of expressing gratitude for creation, for the bounty of nature, for life. The Gods stay amongst us mortals until Kuningan, when they ascend once more to heavenly realms and the cycle begins again. It’s one thing to understand the myth, but it’s quite another to convey the excitement and joy of Galungan from the perspective of the Balinese. I spoke to Santu, a 37-year Galungan and Kuningan veteran, about his experiences over the years and how they’ve changed. He painted a vivid picture of a child as excited by the imminent arrival of Galungan as a British or American kid on Christmas Eve, unable to sleep for as much as a week beforehand, and leaping out of bed at three or four a.m. on Galungan morning to jog from village to village with his buddies — for no other reason than a need to channel the adrenaline surging through his body. Seldom-seen friends and relatives would visit for the festival, often bringing gifts of new clothes. In those days, the bread and suckling pig prepared in the lead-up to Galungan were rare delicacies, and the chance to feast on them was prized. Nowadays, of course, they’re fairly commonplace. It’s quite hard for me, a pampered middle-class kid who has never been faced with a genuine shortage of food, to imagine the anticipation of that Balinese boy who has waited weeks for a taste of his favourite fare. Santu seems to have mixed feelings about the changes time has wrought on Galungan, appreciating the relative abundance of foods that were once scarce, yet coming over a little melancholy when describing the difference between the magical aura that surrounded Galungan and Kuningan while he was growing up and their current state. In some ways, he suggests, they’ve lost a little of their lustre. Kuningan, for example, is traditionally a

day of travel. He speaks of being given 50 rupiah(!) and setting off on an adventure around the island by foot and bemo, visiting relatives, playing on the beach, and soaking up the spirit of the day. The sheer ease of travel nowadays means that such journeys are inevitably a little more mundane than they used to be. Nonetheless, Santu is philosophical. He seeks to strike a balance between upholding the traditions of Balinese life and embracing the benefits of modernity. Movingly, he speaks of spending time in Canada. The indifferent reception he encountered at first soon melted into smiles and warmth when he changed into his traditional costume — an experience that left him humbled at the manner in which this little island and its people have touched the lives of others, even those who live an ocean away. It’s a perfect reminder of what’s so special about the Balinese way of life, and what deserves to be preserved. Taken as a whole, the cycle that makes up Galungan and Kuningan is a beautiful gesture of love and gratitude towards the Earth itself and the many riches with which our planet provides us. In a world that sometimes seems over-saturated with technology, and in which many of us never know precisely where our food has come from, protecting that heritage is an important task. Can the Balinese maintain the sacredness of their traditional festivals while also allowing Galungan and Kuningan to incorporate the dizzying array of fresh influences Bali is now subject to? Santu isn’t sure. He feels some concern, he tells me, but he’s also confident that Balinese culture is robust and flexible enough to meet the challenges of a new era. It appears that the battle between the forces of good and evil is still being waged, and perhaps we won’t know for certain which side is victorious until we wake up on Galungan morning.

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A glimpse of Japan.

The Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets is a jewel of history, art and performance that's not to be missed, writes Stephanie Mee.

In Colin McPheeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic work, A House in Bali, he recounts a scene from Bali in the 1930s, where crowds of young and old gather around a simple backlit screen to watch a master dalang (puppet master) perform his art. Throughout the evening, the crowd watches the puppets in rapt concentration, occasionally bursting into cheers and peals of laughter as the dalang unravels stories of ancient kings, princes, princesses, gods, and demons. Today, this scene is a rarity. With the proliferation of iPhones, Androids, and social media, this once thriving form of entertainment is now taking a backseat to Youtube, Facebook, and Angry Birds. Fortunately, there are a few crusaders of culture who refuse to let this piece of Indonesian heritage die out. The Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets was created in 1998 by Hadi Sunyoto, a businessman and avid collector, who wanted to create a space to preserve, promote, and study the ancient arts of the puppet and mask theatre in Indonesia and other countries.

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Contemplating Java.

Strung out.

With the help of curator and trustee, Prayitno, Hadi has managed to amass one of the largest and most varied collections of South-east Asian puppets and masks in the world. The collection features over 1,300 masks and more than 5,000 puppets from Indonesia, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, and regions as far away as Japan, Sri Lanka, Italy and Mali. This unique museum sprawls across 10,000 square metres of lush gardens amidst tranquil rice fields and tropical jungle in a small Balinese village just outside of Ubud. The massive collection of masks and puppets is housed in five antique wooden joglos sourced from Central and East Java. Visitors are welcome to stroll the grounds and peruse the collections for free, and the knowledgeable and cheerful museum director, Andang Sasongko, is always on site to impart the history and story behind each item in the collection. Andang starts the tour in the wayang golek house, which features wooden puppets that are controlled by rods. “At the time these puppets were created there was no television, so puppets were used to talk to the people,” he says. “With wayang, every class of people came together

to watch the shows. This is why every main religion in Indonesia spread through wayang.” The variety of religions and cultures is reflected in the faces and styles of the puppets. The first wayang golek period shows vivid characters from the Hindu Ramayana and Mahabarata stories. During the second period, when the Panji legends were popular, many of the puppets sport Islamic-style skullcaps and Middle Eastern influenced clothing. The third period shows a smattering of Western and Chinese facial features and clothing styles, including Dutch colonial uniforms and Chinese robes. Popular dalang often used their puppets to raise awareness about social, political, and religious issues. “Take for example this colonial figure,” says Andang, pointing to a puppet with Western features decked out in colonial finery. “He built the first main road in Java. Some believed he was bad because he used slave labour, but others say he was good because now we have infrastructure. The story of whether he was good or bad really depended on what side the puppet master was on.” Politics played a huge role in the decline of puppet and mask theatre in Indonesia. During the 1960s the Suharto regime attempted to eradicate communism

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Colonial attention.

in Indonesia and banned Chinese cultural expression throughout the country. Puppet masters and mask dancers were included in the scourge. With a touch of sadness in his voice, Andang tells the story of the famed Chinese-Javanese puppeteer, writer, and playwright, Gan Thwan Sing: “He mixed ancient Chinese and Javanese performance styles. But in 1965, when the revolution against communism was going on, all of his work was burned. Now we only have the prototypes. “It’s a pity because now we will never know how the stories were meant to be told.” Another sad example of a lost art is the wayang beber. Setia Darma features a number of these illustrated cloths that display vibrant scenes of village life, fantastic battles, and political intrigue. “People would sit and watch while a storyteller slowly unrolled the cloth and told the story. Unfortunately, the last time that this was performed was in 1947,” Andang says. Setia Darma also features thousands of wayang kulit, the popular shadow puppets that Indonesia is famous for. The delicate lace-like designs, finely detailed features, and base materials vary depending on the region the puppets are from. “This one is my favorite,” says Andang, pointing to the very rare wayang suket figures, which come from Purbalingga in Central Java, and are made of intricately woven grass strung together piece by piece. “We hosted a workshop to make these puppets, but nobody could even finish one. Now there is only one artist left in Indonesia who can do this.” The museum also houses a massive collection of masks from around the world, including wooden funeral masks from central Borneo; rare topeng (theatre masks) from Madura that are no longer made; colorful carnival masks from Venice; and ceremonial masks from Africa. Perhaps the most impressive of Setia Darma’s masks is the Seni Reog mask from Ponorogo, East Java. This massive piece stands over two metres tall and weighs in

at 40kg. It is made of a wooden tigers head covered in real tiger skin, and topped by towering tiers of peacock feathers. The mask is held in place by a dancer using a simple wooden mouthpiece. “The story behind this mask is that there was once a Javanese king who married a Chinese princess. He was so in love with her that he did whatever the princess wanted,“ Andang says. “This mask was made by an artist to send the king a message that he was a powerful king, like the tiger, yet he was controlled by the princess, the peacock. Afterwards, the king ordered that all artists were to be killed, so the artists fled to the forest where they continued their art.” Each mask and puppet in the collection tells a story, and it is these stories that teach future generations about the unique culture and history of the regions that the masks and puppets come from. Preserving this heritage was Hadi’s main reason for opening the Setia Darma museum. Besides simply conserving and displaying the masks, puppets, scrolls, and barong, the museum also provides a space for the research and development of these art forms. Setia Darma often hosts performances – sometimes using the masks and puppets in the collection – and holds educational workshops, and exhibitions. In an age where teenagers watch the latest episodes of Indonesian Idol on their Blackberries, and even toddlers have iPads, it is refreshing to see that there are passionate people like Hadi, Prayitno, and Andang who strive to keep the unique tradition of wayang and topeng theatre alive for future generations. The Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets is located in Banjar Tengkulak Tengah, and is free to visit every day between 8:00AM and 4:00PM. Donations are welcome. www.setiadarma.org

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By Andrew Hall

I have little contact with Europeans here, as they are only interested in politics and money, whereas I am more interested in woods and the beautiful eyes of the Javanese. - Walter Spies about the island of Java.

This year marks the 70th since the drowning death of, arguably, Ubud’s most famous foreign-born resident, Walter Spies. But his almost legendary contributions to art and culture on Bali (amongst many other things) tower above what was a relatively short life – he was 46 when Japanese forces sunk the ship that deported him from his island home in 1942. As a German national in the Dutch East Indies, he was taken as a prisoner of World War II. That was an ending: the Balinese people might even accord Spies’ demise with the term puputan – which three royal houses on Bali endured at the hands of the Dutch earlier in the 20th century – so highly was this Russian-born renaissance man revered on Bali. Controversy still surrounds various aspects of Walter Spies’ life – from questions about his German-ness as opposed to assertions that his actual national identity was Russian (in which case he perhaps should/would not have been taken into custody and deported), to the consequences he suffered because he was openly gay. Mikhail Tsyganov and Sergey Belenky write in 103 Meridian East: “Reference books and encyclopedias usually define Spies as a ‘German painter’ or, at best, there might be a fleeting note stating that he was ‘born to the family of a German diplomat’ on the 15th of September 1895 in Moscow, as indicated on the website walterspies.com . . .

Spies: An artist at living. Courtesy of John Stowell/Hans Rhodius.

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The house, the art, the man. Top left and above left: Courtesy of Afterhours Books. Centre left: Courtesy of John Stowell/ Hans Rhodius. Right: Image courtesy of Collection Manuscript devision, Library of Congress Washington.

“(Our) research . . . has revealed that Spies’ father wasn’t a ‘German diplomat’ but the honorary consul of Germany in Moscow and a citizen of the Russian Empire.” The research identified Spies grandfather, a German, as having moved to a “flourishing” Russia during the first half of the 19th century – along with numerous compatriots. He moved to Moscow in 1845/6 and later became a Russian citizen. “Walter grew up and studied in Moscow, revealing a flair for botany, zoology, music, dancing and painting, which was not surprising since he came from a family whose salons were frequented by prominent people such as composers Alexander Scriabin and Sergei Rachmaninoff, as well as writer Maxim Gorky,” say Tsyganov and Belenky. In 1910 Spies went to Dresden, Germany, to study and, reading between the lines of research papers, it would be reasonable to infer that he gained dual citizenship. And this led, in 1914 – at the outbreak of WW I – to the first occasion in his life that a blurring of personal national identity found Spies being marched away from Moscow to internment in the town of Sterlitamak . . . 50km from the Ural Mountains. This event proved to have a significant effect on the direction Walter Spies’ life was to take. “Our protagonist was very keen to learn about the lifestyles of the locals and their music. His letters to his family reflect the charm of this simple and sincere way of life, as well as the tunes and songs,” say Tsyganov and Belenky. “Spies described his walks, his nature sketches and his efforts to learn the Tatar and Kirghiz languages and Arabic literature. He made his first attempts at painting, and notated Bashkir and Tatar folk tunes.” Well-known Japanese researcher of the works of Walter Spies, Miyuki Soejima, writes: “No one knew who wrote the songs that (had been) sung for so many generations. And Spies began to believe that, in most folk art truth is hidden in anonymous works.” War and conflict (the Russian Revolution began in 1917) have a canny knack of changing lives, and as Walter Spies drift dreamed his way on the tide of these eruptions (he escaped the revolution and returned to Germany) his wanderlust began to burgeon . . . and he discovered, and became enamored of,

the Die Brücke (The Bridge) group of painters. Die Brücke had a major impact on the evolution of modern art in the 20th century and was an important element in the creation of expressionism. The artists depicted emotionally agitated streetscapes and sexually charged events taking place against rural backdrops. Passionately charged situations were evoked with dramatic colouration and a conscious thumbing of noses at “naturalist” painting. The style presumably appealed to Spies’ adventurous and inquisitive nature, his experimental bent. Spies’ first painting exhibition was held in 1919 in Dresden, where he also worked as a dance teacher. He held two more exhibitions in Holland in 1923 and became an art director for silent movie master Friedrich Wilhelm Murnau. But his hankering for things Eastern which had been ignited by his encounters with the peoples he met during his internment in the Urals was pulling him away from Europe. In 1923 he signed on as crew on a freighter bound for the Dutch East Indies, arriving in Bandung, West Java – a young city then known as the Javanese Paris. “After my difficult and dangerous sea trip as a sailor on a cargo ship, I reached Java and ran away from the vessel,” Spies wrote in a letter to his family. He found work as a pianist accompanying silent movies in a Bandung cinema . . . and set about studying and painting the local cultures and landscapes. In another letter he wrote: “These people, the Sundanese and Javanese, are so incredibly beautiful, so slightly built, brown and aristocratic, that all who are not these kinds should be ashamed of themselves.” By 1925 he had gravitated to Yogyakarta – the cultural epicenter of Java – where he continued to work as a pianist. His cultural curiosity attracted the attention of Sultan Harmengkubuwono VIII, and Walter Spies became the first European to live in the royal palace (Kraton) where he was installed as the European orchestra conductor. In that year he visited Bali for the first time. He fell in love. Spies’ explained his vision of Bali in a letter to his brother Leo: “For a Balinese – and this comes from his primitive and unspoilt nature, his closeness to nature – life is the glorious,

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holy fact; religion is alive and it exists to teach how life is to be loved and lived, and art is alive and exists to praise the holiness of life and religion.” In 1926 he moved to Bali – to its cultural capital, Ubud – permanently, as Tjokorda Putra Sukawati says: “Walter Spies was invited to Bali by my uncle, my father’s older brother, who met him in the Kraton . . . “Of course, at first, he lived at my uncle’s palace but, after a year, he wanted to see other parts of the island as well . . . Spies was eager to learn more about other places in Bali (and) decided to move temporarily to Iseh village in Karangasem. “(He) lived there for about a year . . . then returned to Ubud to stay permanently. Our family presented him with a piece of land where he built his house.” The humble abode was located near the confluence of two rivers in Tjampuhan (you can stay there to this day; it’s part of the Tjampuhan Hotel) where Spies became a renowned host to the likes of Charlie Chaplin; anthropologist, Margaret Mead; actress, Barbara Hutton; and Mexican painter, caricaturist, ethnologist and art historian, Miguel Covarrubias, who writes: “It was my good fortune to have made friends . . . with Walter Spies, Bali’s most famous resident . . . “In his charming devil-may-care way, Spies is familiar with every phase of Balinese life and has been the constant source of disinterested information to every archaeologist, anthropologist, musician, or artist who has come to Bali. “An authentic friend to the Balinese and loved by them, I feel he has contributed more to the prestige of the white man than the colonial despots who fail to impress the discriminating Balinese by the policy used to bluff natives into submission.” Much of Spies’ energy was devoted to helping with the works and studies of others, like Austrian author Viki Baum who credits him with providing the factual and historical detail that enabled her writing of the historical novel Love and Death in Bali (rereleased as A Tale From Bali). But he accumulated a prodigious portfolio of works in painting; scientific observations published in a number of journals; he was a pioneer in the recording of Balinese music; and curator of a museum devoted to Balinese arts and culture. One of his legacies, the Kecak dance, is still a popular

attraction for visitors to Ubud. But jealous whispers abounded aimed directly at Spies’ sexuality. Gary L. Atkins in Imagining Gay Paradise writes: “He became a character in at least three fictional works, usually depicted as a dilettante and a seducer of both the wealthy and of Balinese boys. His guilt in molesting underage Asian “boys” was often simply assumed . . . “Another (characterisation) may have come closer to the truth by observing that the paradise Walter had helped create had not been about Bali at all but about himself as a homosexual male living in the 1930s, when the empires were descending into chaos.” “The myth that he purveyed,” writes Nigel Barley in Island of Demons “was the myth of himself, as a man who had found that contentment we all seek, who always sat in golden sunshine, who lived a life without the oppression of wage slavery or anxiety, a Parsifalian Peter Pan for whom every day brought joy and the pleasure of beauty, what he, himself, might have called a Lebenskünstler, an artist at living.” Atkins responds: “Walter probably would have considered himself more a gesamtkunstwerk, a holistic work of art and life of the type that had been sought by the Brüke artists who had influenced him in Dresden . . .” In any case, Walter Spies was arrested by the Dutch authorities in December 1938 in a crackdown on homosexuals and imprisoned in Bali’s Kerobokan gaol and later in Surabaya. His friends supplied him with painting materials and he continued to produce great works throughout his incarceration. Following the intervention of Margaret Mead and others on his behalf – arguing that the allegations against him regarding the age of his lover/s were simply not sustainable – Spies was released in September 1939. Tjokorda Putra Sukawati says: “Walter Spies became one of the few Western guests who could adjust the most to a different world using puri (the palace) as a bridge to Balinese society . . . I think the fact that Spies grew up in Russia and then moved to Germany prepared him to comprehend multinationalism.”

A dilettante and a holistic work of art. Image Courtesy of John Stowell/Hans Rhodius.

Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers. In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986. Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service. “We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.

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July/August/September 2012

The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.

Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Victor Mason was last seen on a pub crawl in north London. His column 'Those Were The Days' does not appear in this issue.

Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie. 41

deep trivia: Wood In the latest in a series looking at the significance of the Five Elements in Balinese life, Diana Darling investigates the place of wood in this island's rich culture.

Balinese perceptions of trees are sometimes surprising.

scented wood and fragrant flowers. So just as wood is the meat of trees, trees are the flesh of gods.

Common and frightening Not that long ago, Bali’s wilderness was forest—and while wood was thought of as a handy free material for building and fuel, trees were feared as being inhabited by restless spirits. Forests were frightening not only for their invisible population, but also because their darkness concealed tigers, snakes, and sometimes bandits. Moreover, it is easy to get lost in a forest; and to many Balinese, being lost (paling—losing your sense of direction) is almost synonymous with insanity. The lord of the forest, Banaspati Raja, is better known as the Barong, the sacred effigy that is the nemesis of danger.

As political badges The banyan tree (Ficus benjamina L., Moraceae), known as beringin in Indonesian and bingin in Balinese, is the most awe-inspiring of trees: its huge, cooling mass offers shelter to humans, animals, and spirits alike. In Bali, leaves from the banyan tree are an essential ingredient of funerary offerings. Powerful magical associations make the beringin an object of fearful veneration. So it is hardly surprising that Golkar—the political vehicle of President Suharto who ruled Indonesia from 1967 to 1998—found the beringin tree an irresistible emblem. After Suharto stepped aside, there was intense rivalry between Golkar and Megawati Sukarnoputri’s party PDI-P, whose emblem is a black bull. The contest was especially heated in Bali, where Megawati (whose grandmother was Balinese) had a big following. The euphoric trashing of each other’s party regalia was a disturbing trend during the subsequent elections. None was more shocking than the rumoured felling of banyan trees and the counter-threat to slaughter bulls.

Dirty and dangerous Nor are you safe from trees in villages and towns. Trees may provide shade, flowers, and fruit, but they also tend to fall over in storms, sometimes crashing down on people, houses, and temples. Old people in the mountains condemn the glorious lychee trees that used to line the roads as “dirty” (kotor) because of all the messy leaves and over-ripe fruit they drop and which must be swept up. As mountain The tree is also associated with the cosmic mountain, lyrically evident in wayang kulit, the mystical shadowpuppet theatre, where the ultimate godhead (among other forces) is represented by the leaf-shaped kakayonan (tree of life) puppet, which is also called gunungan (mountain). Some point out that kayon means kayun (will, intent, thought)—a good place to start in describing the universe. As deities There’s a story told in the lontar Kutara (Kanda Dewa) Purana Bangsul (according to Mitos-Mitos Tanaman Upakara, by I Nyoman Miarta Putra, Manikgeni, Denpasar, 2006) in which Shiva orders the gods to take the form of different trees, whose wood can be used for building shrines. They become various trees remarkable for their

Certain objects of wood are particularly significant in Balinese culture. Statues Among the most sacred objects of wood in Bali are pratima, the little statues (often in the form of a fierce winged lion) which are stored in temple shrines as visiting places for the gods when they are invoked to descend. These are carved of precious wood, such as sandalwood. Shrines and chariots When pratima are transported to, say, a spring or another temple, they are carried in procession on beautifully carved palanquins (usually painted or gilded) called jempana. These might be carved of cempaka (Michelia champaca, L., Magnoliaceae). The golden wood tewel is often used for shrines.

Masks The masks of the guardian effigies, the Barong and Rangda, are also intensely sacred. Their wood must come from a tree that grows in a graveyard, usually the kepuh or the pulé. These tall, slow-growing trees are thought to be especially tenget—that is, charged with a quality conducive to magic. Only a small amount of wood is harvested for the mask. Thus, although their timber would be excellent for construction, no one would dare fell these trees for building or use their wood for construction, lest the inhabitants of the building die suddenly or go mad. Among some Balinese intellectuals, the modern spin on such making such fine hardwood trees tenget is to protect the environment. Masks used for the performance of Topèng (sacred masked theatre) are made from light pale wood such as waru (Hibiscus tiliaceus, Malvaceae). Sacred teeth It is thought that teeth in wood sculpture should be made from trees with thorns. The fabulous naga banda, the huge funerary dragon found in cremations of high-ranking nobles, has sharp teeth that are carved from the white, thorny medori wood. Another such wood is panggal buaya, which means crocodile molars. Kul-kul The kul-kul drum—which announces the arrival of a god or the departure of a soul and sometimes signals an emergency—is made from a hollow log and hung in a tall pavilion. The wood of choice is the camplung tree (Calophyllum inophyllum L.), which grows well on the coast and shades of Sanur beach. Building elements Although wood is becoming scarce as a material in the grand bones of construction, decoratively carved wood is an essential element of traditional Balinese architecture, particularly in the posts and eaves of temple pavilions. Carved doors and windows, both new and recycled, are

markers of “Bali style” in expat building fashions. Tongkat (tungkak) This is a wooden walking stick, carved with the head of a naga, which is part of the regalia of a high priest (pedanda). Indeed, danda means tongkat. The word implies support. The great Ida Pedanda Made Sideman (1858–1984) is quoted as saying that the tongkat of a pedanda is not the naga but scripture. In the pre-Christian Batak culture of Sumatra, the priestly seer (datu) carried a staff (tungkak), the first of which is said to have been formed by the entwined bodies of married male-female twins; and an auxiliary wife taken for the sake of bearing children was called a tungkot.

How to behave around trees Tree etiquette Given that trees are manifestations of gods, you should not cut down a tree without first giving offerings, neither pluck a flower or pick a fruit without asking permission from the tree. Tumpek Wariga: Also known as Tumpek Pengatag, Tumpek Uduh, and Tumpek Bubuh, this is the anniversary of cultivated fruit-bearing trees, which occurs every 210 days on Saniscara Kliwon in the week of Wariga (and next on 4 August 2012). Trees are bound with a sash and given offerings; and the deity Hyang Sangkara, lord of growing things, is bid to help the tree bear plentiful fruit for the holy day Galungan, twenty-five days hence. Tumpek Wariga can also be construed as the day to worship Hyang Sangkara, with the honouring of trees as a point of ritual focus. An article on Tumpek Wariga by I Made Sujaya (Bali Post, 10 June 2007) contemplates not only the mythic aspects of this holy day but also the environmental damage of deforestation on Bali’s water resources. He suggests that “the rituals be made more whole and contextual” and that “the whole behaviour and tradition be refreshed”—for example, he goes on to say, by planting trees.

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Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...

Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.

A ADVENTURE

The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region.

Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife). Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. Bali Bird Walks Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills.

Mysticism Tour Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali.

ANTIQUES Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.

ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates. ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS 3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands

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together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations. Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists. Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Map Ref: X.10 Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com

Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm. Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1. Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls. Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng. Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 .

Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist. Infinity Gallery Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 www.liquid-art-gallery.com Infinity Gallery displays "Liquid Art", which is ultra high-speed photography of fluids in motion. The timefreezing method allows you to see hidden wonders of the natural world. Think of it as a visual spa, in a modern and elegant gallery setting. Open daily from 9am to 10pm. Free entry. Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on

the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road. Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays. Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm.

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BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting. Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.com Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community. Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and

international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish

Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men. Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh. Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.com Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas. TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses.

Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building. Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit. W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3. Tel: 0361-977978. pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.

B BARS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is modAustralian inspired – that is, fresh local organic produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an open-

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plan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – their Virgin Wheatgrass Mojito has to be the best pick-me-up of all time - it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day. Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832 Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite secret hangouts. Literary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Set on a ravine of the Oos River this new trendy threetiered cafe cum wine bar cum restaurant is set to rock its riverside terraces. Their Divine Wine Cellar stocks Old and New World wines and hosts Divine Hour from 5-7pm every day with a glasses of wine starting from 50++. There is a cute bites menu as well as a full on a la carte. A private dining room and bottle shop complete this all-in-one venue of Ubudosity! Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X.

Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet

quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975354.

Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one.

Gallery a distinctly convivial atmosphere...it's easy to imagine the late artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/ Map Ref. If you don’t actually stay in this award-winning hotel you must pop into Jati Lounge for tropical cocktails and light snacks. Its curved architectural teak mastery enhances the view of the Ayung River gorge and the tropical forest on the opposing valley. Excellent High Tea or light snack house specialties accompanied by fruit juices or cocktails in the late afternoon-light make for a very special moment.

Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at Han Snel

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic recently refurbished to combine air con comfort and outdoor pavilion seating, that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm.

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CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210-day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all

in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants). Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan. Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot.com

When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks.

Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere. Warung Kopi @Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com Views of rice paddy fields and landscaped gardens over a cup of coffee, a delicious brownie and a good book. There is nothing better. One of Ubud's best cafe hangouts. WiFi is supplied - if you must, but we suggest getting off your Faceboook and enjoying the breezes and the view or one of the many workshops or courses on offer. BOOK SHOPS Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You

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can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here. Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here. Boutiques Anjaly Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-971599 www.anjalybali.com Map Ref. M.9 Born out of gratitude, inspired by yoga and a tribute to being green, Anjaly (Sanskrit for thankfulness) is a forwardthinking clothing brand dedicated to freedom. Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in. Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18

Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion.

C CAVIAR & CHAMPAGNE

Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles.

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.

BOTANIC GARDENS

COCKFIGHTING

Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.

Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.

Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja. Tel: 0361-7463389. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.

COOKING CLASSES Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow

spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 info@mozaic-bali.com www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du

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DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance. Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow. Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will

teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education. Clinics Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on

the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent addition is a women's medical spa offering ozone treatments, basic pre-med check ups and a variety of feminine hygiene treatments. CRAFTS Indigo Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing,

jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories. Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L.6 Exquisite antiques and local creative traditions. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring

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traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.

D DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.

landscape. The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org. A powerful community jointventure school and event

Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.

Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival.com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.

E ECO Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armaresort.com This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung...and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding

held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event.

G GLASS

centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee. Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8.

FESTIVALS Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music

Horizon Glassworks Jl. Monkey Forest Coffee Silver Shopping Arcade Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: R.5/F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck

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OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.

Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge on Jl. Raya Kengetan and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm. GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).

both traditional Balinese healing Usadha.

Handicrafts

Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.com Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high quality standard for energetic treatments.

Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Art Center Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-972187 www.threadsoflife.com While Threads of Life Gallery mostly displays and sells natural dyed traditional textiles made by the 1200 weavers on the 11 islands that Threads of Life works with, the gallery also features a variety of fine crafts made by traditional artisans, including fine traditional basketry, pottery along with homewares such as pillows and tablerunners, and wearable art. HEALTH Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Taking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to

Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA. Treatments exclusively for women are also now part of the programme.

HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366. www.alamidahbali.com Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079. www.baliswasti.com Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-975017. Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-973381.

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HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41011. www.alilahotels.com One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. All rooms face the ocean with clear views across the straits to Nusa Penida. Alila Manggis is famed for its cooking school specialising in Eastern Balinese cuisine. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches along the ridge of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool villas and four valley villas offer superb one-up-manship for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer and a fabulous pavilion restaurant complete this one of a kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues in Ubud. Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating,

Kerambitan, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-894 6388. www.alilahotels.com/soori Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea and paddy fields, while still

Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas. Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour in-villa

Amandari Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat. Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape. Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com

maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas

dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature bath amenities.

Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com

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NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.

This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities. Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com Bidadari Private Villas & Retreat Jl. Raya Kelabang Moding Tel: 0361-9000402 www.bidadarivillasubudbali. com Map Ref. G.8 In under one year, Bidadari Private Villas and Retreat, set in the outlying lushness of Ubud, has already garnered no less than 11 ‘excellents’ from Tripadvisor. Sophisticated seclusion on a magical ravine, their five private villas offer sumptuous and distinctive décor and

expansive living areas. Panoramic views look out over Nature and are enhanced with horizon-edge pools. The bedrooms and bathrooms are fit for angels no less, as is the spa and meditation area. Fully staffed and cuisined, you will probably find that when it is time to come down from the clouds, a little bit of you will always stay behind. Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com. Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com. The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with

travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest. Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Cinta Inn has opened behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn.

COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz Map Ref. A.3 An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como. Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other. Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/

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sayan/ Map Ref: D.3 Over the past decade the Conde Nast Travel award has consistently been given to this stylish riverside resort. No wonder. With its 42 villas, 18 suites, two restaurants and yes, an award winning spa it is Everybody’s Everything. A Royal villa, Riverview villas and a Riverfront villa balance the 18 suites, which make up the main body of the hotel. Luscious gardens, artfully designed public spaces all overlook the rushing waters of the famous Ayung River.

Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com

well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel. Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for

Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley. Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi.

Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice ﬁelds and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are

travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked. Komaneka at Rasa Sayang Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975491 www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7

Another oasis in the heart of Ubud, this resort is dedicated to giving a luxurious and contemporary lifestyle. Thirty spacious, deluxe rooms and two roof-top garden villas allow travelers to savour the tranquility and breathtaking beauty of Ubud. A fine dining restaurant, infinity edge swimming pool and lobby lounge bar puts Rasa Sayang at the top of many-a-list. Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence. Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com Kumara Sakti Hotel and Spa Jl. Suweta Tel: 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 This yoga boutique retreat offers outstanding Yoga instruction and excellent calming Ayurvedic treatments. Luscious gardens

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surround ten rooms, two swimming pools and yoga pavilion. Together they overlook padi fields and a river gorge. Stunningly peaceful, there is little doubt as to why this resort has had so many complimentary Tripadvisor recommendations. Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk

that skirts this vast property and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants).

Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com

Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com

Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com

Puri Tupai Private Garden Villa Jl. Raya Anak Agung Gede Rai, Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-981655 www.puri-tupai.com Chef, housekeeper, 24 hour security guards, 2 watchdogs, 6 squirrels, 83 koi and two turtles. Puri Tupai is heaven on

Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and riverâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;view property.

Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com

Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan. Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com

Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back!

earth with its two traditional joglos, four bedrooms, 25 metre pool, grass tennis court, sculpture garden and the mod cons of satellite TV and Internet connection. So fabulous you won't want leave the property! Excellent for families, excellent for friends.

Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com

Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com

The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan. Tel: 0361-973610 www.thesamayabali.com A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chicest valley, Sayan. Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com

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Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it. Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.com Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool. Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinesestyle accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by

Ubud's famous artists. The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’. The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime. The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: D3 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large

four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants) The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi. Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An popular addition to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area. Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com

Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as has merged with

it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style. Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing. Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Lodtunduh.

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Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan. Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.

J JEWELRY Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3. Tel: 0361- 971430.

Map ref: K.10 www.galaxyanjewels.com The Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons. Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-976084. www.gemalabalisilver.com JFF Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan 7 Tel: 0361-974652 www.jf-f.com Map Ref.U.9 The JF-F legacy continues in the capable hands of Fichot's niece, Chloe... having lived and breathed her uncle's style and talent she is ideally positioned to continue the hand crafted treasures of exquisite taste, style and beauty. Each unique piece is a conversation unto itself. Kapal Laut Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972470 www.kapal-laut.com Map Ref: I.6 With 'simplicity, style and design' as their mantra Kapal Laut has opened their eighth shop in Bali. Elegant and affordable, Kapal Laut designs jewelry and accessories in silver and stainless steel and mixes it up with horn, rubber, pearls, shells amd beads. Definitely a place to shop for gifts!

Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.com Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes. Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978513. www.yanvan.com Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)!

K KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’.

Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.

L LIVE JAZZ Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails. Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away.

KIDS See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7

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A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm).

M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.

offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.

P PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and

are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal,

N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.

O ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive

restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances

with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace.

PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PRIVATE DINING Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 PROPERTY Desa Kerasan Tel. 0361-9000566 www.desakerasan.com The opportunity of a lifetime should you wish to buy in Ubud is the upcoming Desa Kerasan. A six home community minutes away from the town centre has been created to offer elegant living with a focus on being green. Priced at under $300k. Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. www.ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? Even Branson has recently bought his plot in Paradise.

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PHOTOGRAPHY Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com

cheese salad. The grilled tuna is done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes an excellent virgin wheat grass mojito - though we are sure they will be happy to add a shot of vodka if needed!

Map Ref. C.2 Whether it’s a light luncheon of fantastic sandwiches, Asian noodles, satays and salads or a gourmand dinner, of say a myriad of Asian-inspired dishes or even steaks and lobsters perfectly cooked on a

R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-gingerlime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s

the Four Seasons caliber each dish is a morsel of pure magic from the Island of the gods. Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-975489. www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating. Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975656 www.tepisawahvillas.com Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm.

Ayung Terrace Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Sayan Tel. 0361-977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan

lava-rock grill, then the view, whilst stunning and romantic, in fact of picture postcard excellence, will not impede the amazing flavours that come from the Four Seasons cuisines. Like with all things of

Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients

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in the serene setting of pure tranquility. The menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable. Betelnut Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref. I.6 Pleasant, airy conservatory filled with palm trees and tressle tables. We love the noodles, satays and salads. Keep your eye open for docofilm nights and live music performances on their indoor stage. Open for lunch, dinner and of course cocktails. Right ooposite the Puri Lukisan Museum, on the main street. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 www.bridgesbali.com Map Ref: H2 Nicolas Lazzaroni heads up a team of 11 in his kitchen. Lunch menu has delicate salads, pasta dishes and light midday morsels. Dinner is a rather grander affair; Seared Scallops; Tiger Prawn Tempura; Red Pepper Crusted Chicken; Roast Pumpkin Rotolo and the best Filet Mignon this side of a number of bridges! Excellent wine list, wine cellar, a private dining roomand a lovely river view from the open-air terraces. Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com

Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks - and we mean excellent tenderloin with a choice of 6 luscious sauces - frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables. Both Leefe and Hoefgaarden (famous brands of Belgium beer) are now available for those mid-day heated moments. Lunch is salads, snacks and excellent Indonesian specialities. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook. CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H.15

CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley. Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-978631. www.coffeecopper.com A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan. Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night. GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious.

The hand-crafted menu is based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glassaccented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate, bookings are essential! Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72. Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal. Indochine Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel. 0361-972616 www.themansion.com Map Ref. K1 Indochine offers and elegant and intimate atmosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel and Spa. Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the

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centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, expats and international travellers alike. Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm. Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 This pavilion-style open

air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973134. Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere. Kebun Jl. Hanoman no. 44A, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-973361. www.kebunbistro.com Map Ref. N.9 France's most well-known region, Provence, comes to Bali at Kebun. This design bijoux eatery complete with

patio, comes with light meals, freshly baked savouries and of course wine! Ubud's most divine space for a tete a tete. Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 The Uma cuisine team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime. ARMA Thai Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 www. armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Elegant dining in the oldworld atmosphere of Arma Thai's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil ARMA Thai Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens.

Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential. Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan Tel: 0361-970992. www.balispirit.com Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also! Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7

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A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday. Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian.

ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential. Murni’s Warung Campuhan. Tel: 0361- 975233.

best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities.

Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery! Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.com Map ref: U.8 Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus.

Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the

Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer.

www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years. Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills,

Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine. Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan

Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings. Ryoshi Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating. Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal.

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Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Neil Harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha. Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/ siam-sally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering. The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse. Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama. Tel: 8686705

Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others. Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan. Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor! West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978363. RetreatS Kumara Yoga & Spa Retreats Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti.com Map Ref. G.8 Escape the world and join ONEWORLD retreats at Kumara Sakti. Daily meditation, soft yoga and fabulous spa treatments make this one of the best five days of your life! Non-hotel guests also welcome.

breezes and the sound of the river flowing by. Gannga Spa is located in the north corner of ARMA's vast estate. The Back massage is a favourite as is the Gangga signature as is the Balinese Boreh. One of Ubud's top spots to relax far from the madding everything! Spa Bali Botanica Day Spa Jl Raya Sanggingan Tel. 0361 976739 Map Ref. A.4 www.balibotanica.com What could be more luxurious than a whole day spent at the spa? Bali Botanica offers a two and a half Chakra Dhara massage. This chakra enhancing treatment is followed by a healthy dejeuner and the fabulous, youth-enhancing Herbal Botanic Facial. Next the Herbal Body Scrub exfoliates and polishes the skin followed by the Therapeutic Bath and of course our last stop on this day trip is a Creme Bath for the hair. Head to toe your body’s best day out! Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236.

SPAS Gangga Spa at ARMA ARMA Resort Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Open rice field views, fresh

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org Bookings essential.

SPA Four Seasons Resort Bali Sayan Ridge Tel. 0361 977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Map Ref. D.3 Simply named “SPA”, this riverside corporal and spiritual haven applies ancient Balinese, Javanese, Ayurvedic and Indian techniques to one of the world’s most popular relaxation practices. Hot river stones “smoothed by centuries of rushing waters of the Ayung River” which this spa overlooks, are used in this most popular of treatments. Up next is ‘Champi’, an Indian head, neck and shoulder massage, including earlobes, that almost sends one to Nirwana. The massages are like anything done with a Four Seasons touch, professional, exquisite and quite extraordinary. For a unique ‘privacy meets luxury’ memory book into one of the three elegant spa villas. KUSH Jl Hanoman. Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and

the list

alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone! Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime... Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the

riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men. Skin Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24. Tel: 0361 975 615 www.ubudskinorganic.com Petite, authentic skin spa on Goutama, Ubud's up-andcoming 'chic street'.

Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com Ubud's most amazing day spa - without a doubt! Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan. Telp: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.

textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.

U UDENG

Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan.

T TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed

Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.

V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is

the list

probably the oldest religious text in the world.

W WALKING Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing.

tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment. Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go. Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the

Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established

Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi

WEDDINGS Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com

WILDLIFE

Tel: 0361-972448. www.uma.como.bz Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a

Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka. com

Cultural Workshops Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742. www.armabali.com Map Ref. W.9/X.10 Authentic cultural workshops that will expand your knowledge and love of Bali and all the unique facets of its intricate culture and religion. A definite must if you are on a cultural tour.

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Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman. Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com

Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org The Sacred Childhoods Foundation Supporting some of the most vulnerable & impoverished children in Indonesia. donations@sacredchildhoods. org www.sacredchildhoods.org

YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan. Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow. com Kumara Retreat Jl. Suweta Tel. 0361 972685 www.kumarasakti. com Map Ref. G.8 “This retreat was everything I hoped for…”, “lovely Bali hide-away for contemplation, yoga…” and the positive comments continue. Kumara has been hosting some of the most successful yoga retreats in Ubud for a few years now and reaping some of the most complimentary write-ups on TripAdvisor. So rather than us tell you about it, we suggest looking up this five-star rated retreat on the big TA and reading about it for yourself. The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com Map Ref: O.10 Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali.

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour

yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz

the list

Performance Schedules

SUNDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7

MONDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo

7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00

I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –

TUESDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7

WEDNESDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana

Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30

I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7

the list

Performance Schedules

THURSDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30

I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10

FRIDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women's Gamelan

Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30

I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7

SATURDAYS

VENUE

MAP REF.

Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00

I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10

EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

advertisers' directory

HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361 - 971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10 Botanica Tel: 0361 - 976739 www.balibotanica.com The List Bud Map H.5 HOTEL Alila Ubud Tel: 0361- 975963 www.alilahotels.com P. 1 Bud Map A.2 Arma Resort Tel: 0361- 976659 www.armabali.com P. 3 Bud Map W.10 Bebek Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 10 Bud Map E.6 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361- 978888 www.como.bz P. 2 Bud Map A.3 Desa Kerasan Tel: 0361- 9000566 www.desakerasan.com P. 2 Bud Map K.12 Four Seasons Tel: 0361- 977577 ext 8222 www.fourseasons.com P. 15/17 Bud Map D.3 Maya Ubud Tel: 0361- 977888 www.mayaubud.com P. 3 Bud Map L.18 The Samaya Ubud Tel: 0361- 973606 www.thesamayabali.com P. 38 Bud Map F. 1

Uma Ubud Tel: 0361-972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz P. 9 Bud Map A.3 MEDIA The Yak Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.theyakmag.com P. 87 RESTAURANT/BAR Bebek Tepi Sawah Rest Tel: 0361- 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P. 10 Bud Map E.6 Bridges Bali Tel: 0361- 970095 www.bridgesbali.com P. 11 Bud Map H.2 Cafe Des Artistes Tel: 0361- 972706 P. 17 Bud Map K.5 Casaluna Tel: 0361- 977409 www.casalunabali.com P. 13 Bud Map I.6 Ibu Rai Restaurant Tel: 0361- 973472 www.iburai.com P. 38 Bud Map K.8 Kebun Tel: 0361- 973361 P. 15 Bud Map 0.9 Mozaic Tel: 0361- 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com P. 9 Bud Map B.3 SHOP Crop/Indigo Tel: 0361- 978304 E:designcrop@yahoo.com

P. 15 Bud Map R.5 Hatten Wines Tel: 0361- 767422 www.hattenwines.com P. 11 Jff Tel: 0361- 974652 www.jf-f.com P. 5 Bud Map X.9 Paul Ropp Tel: 0361- 974655 www.paulropp.com BC Bud Map D.13 Periplus www.periplus.co.id P. 17 Bud Map C.3 Threads Of Life Tel: 0361- 972187 www.threadsoflife.com P. 13 Bud Map H.7 MISC The Bud Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.thebudmag.com IBC The Yak Awards Tel: 0361 - 8446341 www.theyakmag.com P. 6-7

distribution list

NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud

Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Betelnut Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks

Macan Tidur Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Kebun Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally

Taman Hati Tegal Sari Terazzo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery

THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.

to Como Shambhala, Alila & Komaneka

KUPU KUPU Naka Gallery Payangan BARONG Kusia Gallery AMANDARI Minami UMA UBUD Biasa Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum INDUS Mozaic

A B C D

Paul R

Gaya Gallery The Shop FOUR SEASONS Ayung Terrace

E F

KAYU MANIS to Fivelements to The Samaya Horizon Glassworks

Sayan

KEY

THE VICEROY BALI Cascades

Art gallery

Monkey forest

Temple

Automatic teller

Museum

HOTEL/VILLA

Bridge

One way street

Restaurant/Bar

BEBEK TEPI SAWAH RESTAURANT & VILLAS

Dance theatre

Place of interest

Bar/Nightclub

Deer pen

Police station

Shop

THE CHEDI CLUB

Information

Post office

Spa/Salon

Money changer

Sports field

Misc.

PITA MAHA

opp

UBUD

THE MANSION Sayan Aesthetic

VILLA KIRANA

Tegalalang

Tanah Gajah

Rudana Museum Mas Tony Raka Gallery

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1.5km

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Lotus

Ubud Kaja TEGALALANG 10km To Bidadari Villas UBUD SARI WARWICK IBAH TARO 16km Localista Threads of Life KINTAMANI 22km THE VICEROY BALI Bali Botanica Han Rio Helmi Cafe H Cascades Snel Terazo Seniman Bridges Bali Art Puri Lukisan To Elephant JL. Zoo Bumbu Bali I Safari Park RAY Murni’s Ibu Oka AU Blanco Warung Taman Klod To Desa White BUD I The Round Renaissance Betelnut Kerasan Box Rendezvous Bar 6:0 Museum Casa Luna 018: Gusti Lempad’s Ary’s Warung NATURA Andong 0 Seniwati Gallery 0 Periplus J Super RESORT of Art by Women Market Galaxyan Atelier WAKA NAMYA Kupu Kupu Ubud Klod Foundation Gallery Infinity Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Gallery Market K Property Highway Pura Gunung Sari Place Exotiq Sagu Cafe Des FNPF MAYA Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Galaxyan UBUD Adi’s Art Studio & Tidur JL. COK PUTRA S. I Atelier SAR UNG Gallery GUN JL. Pura L Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe KOMANEKA SITA Sukma BISMA Skin Organic Tutmak Bali M Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Anjaly Cat Juice Bar MONKE Bali Y FO ENTRANCE N RES Milano T Alamkara Bodyworks UBUD VILLAGE Lamak Kebun HOTEL O ENTRANCE Bali Spirit Cafe Wayan Bumbu Bali II Tegun Pura Prajapati sisi + nanan Greenhouse The Kafe Cemetary KOMANEKA AT KOMANEKA P RASA SAYANG Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Tama Gallery Tebesaya Cinta UBUD INN Q Verona Padang Tegal Piment Rouge Pura Horizon Dalem Glassworks R Agung Coffee & Silver Dirty Duck Temple Peliatan Crop/Indigo RONG G JL. SE

Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper

Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak Laka Leke

Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus

Nyuh Kuning

Siam Sally Cafe Agung Rai ARMA Museum of Art

JL.

Agung Rai Gallery

Pengosekan

APENGOSEKA RAY N

ARMA RESORT

JFF

Hanna Art Space

NGOSEKAN

JL. RAYA PE

Dangin Lebak

DENPASAR 26km via MAS

UBUD VILLAGE RESORT JL. NYUH KUNING

To Genta Gallery

To Tony Raka Gallery

To Puri Tupai

Rudana Rudana Museum

FOOD

Stephanie Mee goes crispy at one of ubud's cultural hotspots. From the minute you step into the spacious open-air pavilion of Tepi Sawah Restaurant, you know you are truly in Bali. From the intricately carved stone statues of Gods wreathed in tropical flowers, to the melodious harmonies of the gamelan, to the slow, sinuous movements of the joged dancers, this is Balinese culture, art, and food at its finest. My dining partner and I are greeted at the door by the amiable and effervescent Madé Karda, the manager of the vast Tepi Sawah restaurant and adjacent villas. With signature Balinese hospitality, he flashes us a huge smile, and escorts us to our seats. Along the way we wind past tables lit with twinkling candles, lush tropical greenery, and breezy balés decked out in soft cushions. The name Tepi Sawah translates literally as ‘side of the rice fields’, and the views from the restaurant live up to the moniker. Those who were smart arrived early to secure a spot in one of the intimate balés that hover on the edge of the picturesque rice paddies. Those who were not able to grab a spot outside are rewarded with front-row seats to the nightly dance performance. Tonight, the performance is the joged dance with a full gamelan orchestra. The soft melodies of the instruments urge on the female dancer — decked out in shimmering gold sashes wrapped tightly around her willowy form, and an extravagant headdress with gold-leaf flowers and jasmine blossoms. As the music plays, the dancer hypnotises the audience with her slow, calculated steps, undulating hand movements, and the seductive twists of her magenta and gold fan. During breaks in the performance, the dancers weave through the dining room, inviting guests to join them in the dance. When they make their way over to our table, my dining companion hides behind his wine glass, hoping they might pass him over, but to no avail. “Would you like to dance?” the elegant performer asks with typical Balinese grace and sly smiles. To everyone’s disappointment, my companion politely declines, eliciting giggles and mock pouts. Embarrassment thwarted, it is time to order. Madé suggests the specialty of the house, the Tepi Sawah Crispy Duck, and within minutes we are served two steaming bowls of vegetable

soup, with thick slices of garlic bread on the side as a starter. Soon after, the main course arrives: a heaped plate of rice, steamed Balinese long beans in a mild sauce, plump chicken satay, golden shrimp crackers, and the much anticipated rich, brown, crispy duck. The duck is seasoned delicately with paper thin, crispy aromatic skin, tender white and dark meat, and crunchy bones. To compliment the duck, we are offered a fiery red chili sauce and Balinese sambal matah, which is made with sliced raw shallots and chilies tossed in vinegar and oil. The sambal adds a layer of piquant heat to the rich duck meat. As we dine, we sneak peeks at the meals that pass us by on the steady arms of the servers. Dishes include hearty portions of glazed beef ribs, sizzling platters of chicken in gravy sauce with French fries, and classic Indonesian fare such as nasi goreng, grilled king prawns, and ayam asap goreng, or smoked chicken with water spinach and sambal. Just when we think we could not possibly fit in another mouthful, the dessert arrives. In front of us are placed plates loaded with sizable slabs of fresh papaya, honeydew melon, and watermelon, topped with a scoop of rich chocolate ice cream — a refreshing end to a flavourful meal. Stuffed to the gills, we sit back for an after-dinner cigarette and take in the peaceful ambiance of the dining room; the sound of the frogs croaking in the rice fields surrounding the pavilion, and the easy way that the staff work their way around the dining room, attentive, but not overbearing. As the post-feast coma sets in, I am slightly jealous of the guests who had the foresight to book into one of the 12 thatched-roof villas set in the tranquil courtyard overlooking the rice fields and the expansive swimming pool. The complex also features the Nyoman Sumertha Gallery, where guests can walk off their dinner while taking in artworks by some of Ubud’s best local and foreign painters. Fully sated, my dining companion and I reluctantly drag ourselves out of Tepi Sawah, leaving behind the tinkling music of the gamelan, the beguiling dancers and their flirtatious dance moves, the serene setting of the rice fields, and the competing scents of fragrant blossoms and Balinese spices. 73

food

GRIDLOCKFREE DINING Hannah Rodian takes a culinary cruise over the mountains to Bali's uncongested north . . .

Top: Japanese breakfast, Damai. Middle: Baramundi, Matahari. Bottom: Nasi campur, Puri Ganesha.

With the quality of both fresh and heavily processed food declining worldwide, intrepid ‘foodies’ coming to Bali are becoming increasingly conscious of what they eat every day, especially when they have more time to choose when they are on holiday. They should not only limit their options to dining at famous restaurants on the island, but leave the traffic behind and venture over the central mountains to spend a night or two in one of the luxurious and very peaceful resorts on the north coast. Imagine being able to get in the car and, without having to face any kind of traffic jam, simply take a serene drive to enjoy a different dining experience at one of the three best dining destinations on the north coast. Offering spacious parking facilities and menus comparable to the best of the best in the south, these resort restaurants not only serve some of the best food on the island but are also happy to prepare special dishes for hyper-sensitive diners with either serious food allergies or for the steadily increasing number of guests with food preferences. The trend to serve lighter, healthier food is reflected in all their menus. Each of these very different resorts were created by foreigners with connections to the food industry, so the focus is on quality, with most of the ingredients used locally grown and sustainably sourced. The resorts also have to be more selfreliant because there are no quality food suppliers in the north. DAMAI, Lovina: Tucked away in the hills behind the black sand beach resort of Lovina, Damai ‘s 14 villas — ranging from cosy and comfortable to palatial with private pools — command panoramic views of the North Bali coast. Much of their fresh, seasonal produce is picked from their own herb and vegetable garden. All the dishes are beautifully presented and menus are regularly re-created by consultant Chef Penny Williams who runs her own restaurant, serving authentic Balinese food in East Bali. One of Damai’s special breakfast options is the individually served Japanese-style smoked mahi-mahi with miso soup. For those who prefer a vegetarian breakfast, fish can be substituted for freshly grilled tempeh. The menu has many vegetarian options too, including roast Balinese vegetables with sweet potato purée, cinnamon leaves and a beurre blanc sauce. It’s worth taking a scenic drive over to the other side of the island to try Chef Penny’s unique dish of steamed, grilled jackfruit with a Balinese long pepper crust, roasted beetroot and red wine shallots, garnished with fresh herbs and flowers from the garden. www.damai.com & www.baliasli.com.au

MATAHARI BEACH RESORT & SPA, Pemuteran: An hour from Lovina towards the western tip of Bali, Matahari Beach Resort in the peaceful fishing village of Pemuteran is a five — star property with 32 rooms set in stunning gardens. Parwathi Spa has a comprehensive range of treatments and is a world-class facilitiy. The resort has two restaurants with menus created by Chef Komang Sujana. Local fisherman, Jonat, stocks the kitchens with fresh fish and Wayan Sarma drives down from the mountains with the herbs and vegetables not available in Matahari’s own gardens, so that both the degustation and Balinese menus offer guests a different selection of dishes every day. The resort produces it’s own bread, ice cream, and top quality sausages using the best German recipes. The menu has a number of vegetarian dishes and the kitchen is happy to make special dishes for guests with allergy problems. Dewi Ramona, the resort’s fine dining restaurant serves traditional Balinese and subtle combinations of East and West fusion cuisine. The breezy, casual Leon Beach Bistro serves Western and Balinese favourites and the Catch of the Day all day. www.matahari-beach-resort.com PURI GANESHA, Pemuteran: At the other end of Pemuteran Beach, Diana von Cranach and her Balinese husband, Gusti, created a tiny, very personal resort serving very fresh food highlighting vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Used to looking after guests with food allergies and requiring special diets, Diana’s unique ‘rawfully good’ living food has purely South East Asian flavours and takes the use of local produce to a whole new level. Together with Chris Miller, the former executive chef at COMO Shambhala, Ubud, she was responsible for pioneering the ‘living’ food movement in Bali back in 2006 Puri Ganesha chefs Gde and Koki prepare only local chicken and freshly caught fish, no red meat, no French fries (Coca Cola) or any other deep fried dish and Gusti drives up to Bedugul to source unusual herbs and edible flowers. The resort has no set meal times (a blessing for honeymooners) and guests dine in their villas, served by their personal staff or in the little beachfront restaurant. As well as a comprehensive ‘living’ food menu, Diana offers guests an amazing choice of fresh salads, vegetable and Indonesian dishes during the day, and creates a different menu according to the seasonal produce every evening or alternatively, she’ll cook whatever guests feel like Rumour has it that Penny Williams and Diana are working on some very special cookery tours together. www.puriganesha.com

respite

CafĂŠ d'aujourd'hui.

seniman coffee studio gives a humble bean the respect it deserves. Following the boom in ‘high-street coffee chains’, recent years have seen a rise in Third Wave coffee, where specialist shops focus on the quality of bean, roast and brewing. The first original Balinese specialist coffee boutique, Seniman Coffee Studio, is ready to unveil its revolutionary coffee experience. It’s not by chance that the name Seniman means ‘artist’ in Indonesian. Founders David Sullivan and Rodney Glick have spent years in creative research and development, devising and refining their vision — to integrate world-class coffee techniques with their contemporary art and design sensibility. “The current growth in specialist coffee is finally delivering quality drinks to coffee lovers the world over. Coffee culture is progressive and people now demand an improvement in their overall experience, not just the quality of the cup,” David says. Seniman uses organic, premium grade, responsibly sourced Arabica beans harvested from the exotic islands of Indonesia — Sumatra, Sulawesi, Bali, Java, Flores and Papua — with plans to rotate to allow other regions to showcase their harvests. The team freshly roasts green beans to bring out the best in flavour and celebrate their single-origins status to provide a range of choices from darker, to medium, to less familiar lighter roasts favoured by Japanese and Taiwanese coffee lovers. “It’s ironic, typically the closer you are to growing regions, the harder it is to find a decent cup of local coffee. However, go to Tokyo, Melbourne or New York and you’ll find all these incredible coffees on sale,” David says. “Our mission is to champion the Indonesian region and bring these rock star beans, roasts and drinks for everyone to enjoy.” Unlike other cafés with their automated espresso machines, each cup of Seniman coffee is expertly crafted by hand — using either the syphon, pour-over or handpulled espresso methods all fine-tuned to deliver perfectly extracted coffee without any bitterness. These methods require baristas to do more than just push a few buttons, and the Seniman team have all received

world-class training from Taiwan's finest coffee grand masters. Given the partners’ mixed backgrounds in art, design, architecture and advertising, the studio was never going to be another formica homage to gentrified American-style coffee chains. The guys have stuck to their founding vision of fusing the best in contemporary global design with the raw materials and artistic craftsmanship of Asia. The studio, designed by Rodney, is a blend of Western style and Asian minimalism, but far from being stark, the studio is laden with humour and intriguing ephemera from around the globe. "As a fairly longstanding resident of the island — and its arts scene — I had a clear idea of how the studio should look and, more specifically, how it shouldn’t . . . a cookie-cutter western style coffee franchise is not us,” Rodney says. “I think we've married some cool design principles with local materials and craftsmanship . . . with a bit of random to keep it evolving." On the street level is an eye-catching retail boutique showcasing the Seniman brand’s range of original design coffee equipment; furniture; merchandise; and, of course, coffee. Harking back to the era of grocery stores, and using an old style set of scales, staff weigh loose beans or offer one of their colourfully designed packaged bags of coffee. They also recycle the freshly used coffee grinds and sell a health enhancing, highly aromatic coffee body scrub. Like the coffee they serve, the founders believe that sometimes the best things take a little time to mature, and with maturity comes responsibility and awareness of those around you. They work closely with the local community to ensure suppliers and staff understand their stakeholder status in the business. Additionally, up-cycling design initiatives, waste recycling and a spin-off composting business, KomposBali, mean that Seniman is making a stand for sustainability. Business hours – Open 9am - 8pm, 7 days a week Jl. Sriwedari, Tel. 972085. Email. senimankopi@gmail.com Map ref. I.9

retrospective

The Tandjung Sari, Bali’s archetypal boutique hotel, celebrates its 50th anniversary this month with the launch of Tandjung Sari: a Magical Door to Bali. By Diana Darling Once upon a time, when Sanur beach still belonged to invisible beings who made it look deserted and feel populated, when the people of Sanur were poor and the lagoon was still full of fish—that is, sometime in 1960—a young couple sailed along the coast in a tiny jukung outrigger. The husband was lean and dark with delicate features and very bright eyes. His wife had the creamy skin of an Englishwoman, and her blue eyes had the abstracted look of an artist, as if she were seeing things that were still coming into being. Thus Wija and Judith Wawo-Runtu. They had arrived in Bali the previous day from Jakarta. With them were the boatman, of course, and their host, Jimmy Pandy; a short plump man with the incongruous features of one with a complicated ancestry—some Chinese perhaps, some Dutch perhaps, and something “native” that he obscured with a plummy English accent and manners once described by the Australian artist Donald Friend as “very distinguished”. “There!” cried Judith suddenly, pointing to a small promontory on the beach. “That’s the temple Tandjung Sari,” said Jimmy Pandy. “I’m sure it’s not for sale.” “Of course not, don’t be silly,” said Judith. “But

the site is perfect for a little beach house. Perhaps the land next to it is for sale.” Wija said nothing. He knew that everything under the sun was for sale, if one only knew how to talk to people. He and Judith came regularly to Bali to buy antiques and crafts for their shop in Jakarta, where they had an interior decorating business catering to the expatriate community there—many of them diplomats posted to the capital of the new Republic of Indonesia. Wija and Judith—young, beautiful, charming, and talented—knew everyone. They lived with Wija’s parents in a big house in Menteng, the diplomatic quarter. They were too young, beautiful, charming, and talented to do otherwise than to live from their superb taste, and it was fortunate that they managed to do so, because they had five small children to support. “The children will love coming here,” said Judith several months later as she watered a freshly planted row of hibiscus in front of their newly built bamboo hut. The children did. And so did Wija and Judith’s friends. And friends of friends. One day either Judith or Wija said to the other, “You know, we really should build some guest bungalows.”No one remembers exactly

Ni Ketut Reneng (19161993), renowned Legong dancer and founding teacher of the Yayasan Tandjung Sari dance classes. Photograph courtesy of Tandjung Sari.

retrospective

Religious procession on Sanur beach with Hotel Bali Beach in the distance (late 1960s). Photograph by Hans Hoefer

retrospective

how it started, but by 1962 their little home in Bali, which they called Tandjung Sari after the temple, had become a little hotel. It was a much sought-after weekend escape for the smart set in Jakarta, who loved the primitive beauty of Sanur beach and adored bathing from cold water tubs by little kerosene lamps. Everyone raved about how artistically decorated the place was—the garden was filled with old Balinese stone statues and the rooms with antiques. “And Judith and Wija look after you like you’re their own house guests,” everyone said. “Wija knows all about Bali. He took us to the most terrifying trance ceremony and of course he knows where to get all the best deals for real Balinese art, not the souvenirs. Let me try to get you a booking at the Tandjung Sari for next week. I’ll write to them personally, they’re very close friends.” Then in February of 1963 the volcano Gunung Agung erupted and Wija met Tatie. The following year, they married and Wija took into his expansive heart Tatie’s four children by her first marriage, making him the pater familias of nine children. Judith soon also remarried, but she remained close to her children, and the huge family lived in remarkable harmony, often travelling by car on slow, exploratory trips between Java and Bali. In 1967 Wija and Tatie had a child of their own—Wita, whose name is a contraction of that of her parents. Over the next decades, the Tandjung Sari grew until it had some 28 bungalows, all built in an ingenious blend of Balinese architecture and colonial Dutch comfort. Very early on, at Wija’s request, Tatie took charge of the kitchen. She taught their gifted cook Mientje to prepare classic dishes from Java, Sumatra, and Manado, North Sulawesi (where Wija’s father came from). Soon the Tandjung Sari restaurant—in a big, airy wantilan pavilion on the beach—was filled with guests. They came from the Bali Beach Hotel (the huge InterContinental up the beach) and from expatriate

enclaves around the island. Tatie’s perfectionism complemented Wija’s laid-back style to create a place that felt like the centre of the world. People flocked to the Tandjung Sari—to dine, to spend a weekend or a honeymoon, or to schmooze at the little beachside bar. Here Donald Friend, who built a house in the nearby neighbourhood Batujimbar (another project of Wija’s), held court over glasses of gin and lime, like a grandiloquent toad. Here young expat lawyers and entrepreneurs from Jakarta hatched their plans; here young expat designers and writers honed their dreams; and if Mick Jagger or the Queen of Denmark stopped by the bar, the conversation continued uninterrupted. The Tandjung Sari was such a jewel—and Tatie and Wija so easily made the running of the hotel look like just a matter of having dinner parties—that a number of people who had never thought of being a hotelier wanted to try their hand at running it, too. Wija always said, “Sure, why not?” Some were successful, others less so; but none of them were allowed to disturb the underlying character of the hotel, which remained a haven of calm as the world outside the Tandjung Sari roared into modern times. Wija’s big heart quit in 2001. In 2004, Wita’s husband, Aviadi Purnomo, accepted the family’s request to become the Tandjung Sari’s general manager. Together, with guidance from Tatie and always in consultation with the family, they have rejuvenated the hotel. On the 6th of July, Wija’s birthday, they will celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Tandjung Sari with a grand private party at the hotel’s newly renovated restaurant, and the launch of the book Tandjung Sari: A Magical Door to Bali, which tells this story in more detail.

Tourist on a motorcycle passing a temple gate as a procession enters the temple, late 1960s. Photograph by Hans Hoefer.

retrospective

The Bud talked to Diana Darling about writing Tandjung Sari: A Magical Door to Bali, published by Editions Didier Millet, to be launched on 6 July 2012, Wija Wawo-Runtu’s birthday.

Diana, how did you come to write this book? It was commissioned. The owners of the Tandjung Sari decided to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the hotel with a book and they approached Editions Didier Millet, who asked me if I’d like to do it. I said I’d love to. I’d known the Tandjung Sari since 1980 and I knew a lot of the people involved. What’s it like for a fiction writer to do a commissioned book? The challenge is to write authentically, to make it your own take on the story. You want the text to be able to stand on its own, but still fulfil the client’s brief. What was the brief? From the family, it was to tell the story of the hotel—its history and the people behind it. Didier Millet asked me to give it context by writing about Sanur in the 1960s and ‘70s and then in present times. In the chapter called “A Hand-made Hotel” we talk about Balinese building traditions in the context of the hotel’s. There’s also a section there on Jenggala Keramik, which Wija helped the late Brent Hesselyn get started and which is now run by Wija’s daughter Ade and her daughters. And the introduction also talks about Batujimbar Estates (which Wija started), the Bali Hyatt (which he inspired), and Nusa Dua (in which he had great hopes and perhaps some influence). The Tandjung Sari story is really about the evolution of tourism in Bali. It’s an amazing story. How did you research it? Tatie Wawo-Runtu has a sharp memory and tons of friends. We put together a list of people to interview, in person or by email. I worked closely with her and General Manager Aviadi Purnomo, Wita’s husband. Wita was a great help, too— but always very demure, always keeping to the

background and then lending some gentle guidance. Avi was terrifically supportive in the logistics. And they were all wonderfully generous in their hospitality to me during the process. Who are some of the people you interviewed? The Wawo-Runtu family, of course, as well as family friends, staff members, former managers, repeat guests, and the younger of the two main (now elderly) Balinese builders. Among luminaries, I interviewed Joop Ave, Adrian Zecha, Kevin Weldon, and Stanley Allison—who are also family friends. And the images? A lot had been lost to Bali’s tropical climate, but we combed Tatie’s albums, and friends sent great vintage photographs. We used some of the hotel collateral from the early days. Hans Hoefer, Rio Helmi, Emmo Italiaander, Werner Hahn, and Made Wijaya contributed photographs. There are archival images from Holland and Didier Millet’s collection. The contemporary photography was done by Melisa Teo of Singapore. We’ve also included some great drawings that guests did in the guest books. Japanese guests are particularly creative: it was with real regret that we decided not to print one drawing of a man and his wife in the giant bathtub. What’s the significance of this book? Is it for the general reader or just people who have stayed at the Tandjung Sari? It’s for anyone interested in Bali, or in the phenomenology of tourism. Or in the history of Bali style. It’s got rare images, and it’s a nice read.

Opposite page, top: Tatie and Wija Wawo-Runtu, circa 1975. Photograph courtesy of Tandjung Sari. Opposite page, bottom: Judith and Wija Wawo-Runtu, with their children: left to right: Iskandar, Yaya, Fiona, Ade, and Timi, circa 1960. Photograph courtesy of Tandjung Sari.

causes

It ain't easy being green â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there quite a few criteria that must be adheared to. So beware the claims of hospitality chains, writes Stephanie Mee.

Idyllic. . . but for how long?

At the edge of the protected Cardamom Mountain range in Cambodia lies a small lodge surrounded by jungle and flanked by the banks of the Tatai River. The six small cabins at the Rainbow Lodge do not have hot water or air conditioning, there are no toiletries on offer, and guests are offered only a few choices for dinner, which they must decide upon in advance. In addition, water and electricity are in short supply. So why then is the Rainbow Lodge consistently booked out? The answer is simple: eco-tourism. Now, more than ever, there is a huge push to go green. Thus, many businesses have adopted the moniker ‘eco-friendly‘, ‘green’, or ‘organic’ to entice tourists. From hotels to restaurants to laundry facilities, everyone seems to be jumping on the environmentally-friendly bandwagon these days. There are, however, many businesses that claim to be eco-friendly, but are simply using the term as a marketing ploy. This practice is called “greenwashing”, and it is particularly problematic because it sets out to deliberately deceive consumers, and undermines legitimate ecotourism businesses. Greenwashing is exactly what Rainbow Lodge owner, Janet Newman — a former criminal barrister from Birmingham, England — wanted to avoid. Janet went to Cambodia as a volunteer for an environmental preservation group working in the Botum Sakor National Park. Her work with the group inspired her to create a place where tourists could appreciate the unique nature of the area, yet still give back to the local community. “Before we began building, I researched how to build accommodation that would have the least impact on the environment,” she says.

“I borrowed books from the Royal University of Phnom Penh and spoke to other business owners who were doing similar projects.” Janet also considered how her venture could best benefit the local community. The Rainbow Lodge opened its doors in January of 2008 and now features electricity powered by solar panels, a filtered rainwater system, meals made from fresh local produce sourced from the onsite garden and the local market, and staff made up of local villagers. The building materials were sourced locally and erected with help from locals in the nearby Tatai village and neighboring provinces. The explosion of eco-friendly businesses can be seen across Southeast Asia, and Bali is no exception. Hundreds of hotels, tour companies, spas, and restaurants claim to be environmentally friendly and socially responsible. However, as of yet, there are no national certification standards for eco-tourism in Indonesia. This makes it difficult to ascertain whether a business is truly adhering to internationally recognised standards for ecotourism. The International Ecotourism Society defines eco-tourism as, “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people”. In general, there are two main types of eco-tourism — community based eco-tourism (CBET) and private sector eco-tourism. “In 1997 CBET was defined as tourism that takes environmental, social and cultural sustainability into account,” Janet says. “It is managed and owned by the community, for the community, with the purpose of enabling visitors to increase their awareness and learn about the

causes

community and local ways of life. “Private sector eco-tourism therefore (in my view) should try to emulate this definition, but of course is not owned by the community and profits are not actually given back to the community.” An important component of CBET is that local communities must be aware of how to set up sustainable business practices that address their particular needs. I Madé Suarnatha, the Executive Director of the Wisnu Foundation — an environmental NGO in Bali — says: “Bali is a small island with limited resources that must be used wisely and with equity.” Madé believes that to create sustainable tourism in Bali, there must be community participation and an integration of culture, economy, and the environment. “Every place has its own unique culture, so ecotourism efforts must be sensitive to the area,” he says. “For example, in Bali, the subak system of organising water usage already exists. This is a very communitybased concept, and very in tune with nature. With ecotourism it is important that villages realise their potential, and what they already have so they can manage it and create a good relationship between their home and the guests that visit it.” Many tourism ventures in Bali are planned and managed by large corporations and wealthy entrepreneurs from outside Bali. The Balinese people often have little say in this development, instead, becoming tourist attractions rather than the owners and implementers of tourism projects in their own villages. This issue was the driving force behind the formation of the Jaringan Ekowisata Desa (JED), or Village Tourism Network. The JED was designed and is managed by four Balinese villages. Their aim is to raise funds for conservation and promote cross-cultural understanding. The villages have complete control over their eco-tourism projects, and receive administrative support from the Wisnu Foundation. The villagers in the JED network invite tourists to stay in their homes so that people can see the way that Balinese people live on a day-to-day basis. Tourists can explore the natural areas around the villages with local guides, eat Balinese meals prepared by the villagers with local produce, and take part in ceremonies and daily

tasks. All profits from the trips go towards community development and conservation projects. “By implementing eco-tourism, the villages develop a way of life in which they can share their identity and their natural surroundings with others. This is also an opportunity for two-way learning, instead of having the tourist and the object, this is a situation where both groups are active subjects,” Madé says. The Wisnu Foundation recently released a free publication – Bali Desa Wisata Ekologis, or Bali Ecological Tourism Village. The book was created to be a guide and inspiration for other villages that want to create ecological tourism ventures in their areas. The information in the book functions as a set of standards for responsible eco-tourism in Bali. “The concept of tourism should not just be about survival,” Madé says. “It is about structure, balance, and harmony. It is not about selling what you have, but rather sharing what you have with others. Then, what you have is still there when you need it. It is also about doing small things to slowly influence bigger things.” As Madé points out, ecotourism strategies differ depending on the culture and situation of the people in an area. In Cambodia, one of the main issues affecting eco-tourism efforts is a lack of education about environmental responsibility. To combat this, the Rainbow Lodge organises clean-up days at local sites, gives demonstrations in schools about cleaning up rubbish, and provides and manages rubbish bins in Tatai town and local sightseeing spots. In Bali, one of the main issues is trying to spread the message that local people do not have to sell their land or exploit nature for economic gain. Madé is optimistic that more villages will see the value in creating sustainable ecotourism models. He believes that by sharing information and communicating with local villages and the global community, the people of Bali can conserve their culture and natural resources so that they will still be there for future generations. He sums up this idea with a short story: “A wise man once said to me, if I have a penny and I give it to you, then you gain but I have nothing, however, if I give you knowledge you gain and I lose nothing.”

culture

Visitors to Bali tend to get used to the extraordinary becoming commonplace. When Wolf Roberts set out to explore the history and meaning of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kite-flying tradition, he opened the door to a whole new world of magic, mystery, and giggling children.

come fly me.

I first saw them as the relentless concrete that lines much of the route between Kuta and Ubud began to recede, revealing the odd glimpse of the impossibly green rice field vistas Bali is so famous for. Sleep-deprived and stuffed into a hot, airless minibus, I squinted out of the window at . . . wait, what is that? For a moment, I asked myself seriously whether I was gazing at an airborne human piloting a jet-pack. It’s possible that I’ve watched too many science-fiction movies. The truth, when I discovered it, seemed almost as fantastic. There in the clear Balinese sky, at least 100 metres up, soared an enormous kite. Unprepared for such a thing, I could only marvel at it for a few seconds before the bus swept on and I was left to puzzle what this majestic creation was doing swooping over a Balinese village. It didn’t take long, of course, for me to discover that these kites are an integral part of the island’s culture, especially — as you might expect — during the dry season. As anyone who’s ever trudged around a soggy English park with a waterlogged kite can attest, attempting to coax one into the air in the pouring rain can be a dispiriting experience. The kites of Bali even have their own god — Rare Angon, one of the incarnations of Shiva. This particular member of the Hindu pantheon, however, is exclusive to the island. You won’t find mention of him in Vedic scriptures and it’ll be a cold day in Rajasthan before he turns up in an Indian temple. This seems rather fitting for a god who embodies such quintessential Balinese values. What does Rare Angon symbolise? Nothing more or less than the sheer joy of a child lost in a moment of bliss. Yep, Rare is the Balinese word for a boy or a child, while Angon is used to describe the intoxicating joy that comes from involvement in a beautiful activity. In other words, Rare Angon is the deity for you if you love immersing yourself in wonderful experiences for the sheer pleasure of it. Welcome to Bali. At first, I found this rather a difficult concept to comprehend. You have a god whose sole purpose is to connect you with a sense of wonderment and joy? How strange. Our God tends to be a bit sterner than that. I even went so far as to ask a Balinese friend to divine some deeper, grittier meaning in the islanders’ fascination with kites to satisfy my questing Western mind. He just shrugged his shoulders. Another friend recounted his experiences of kite-poaching as a child. When the string of another flier’s kite broke, he told me, he and his friends would run miles through the rice fields — braving the remonstrations of screaming farmers, who were indignant at the damage to their crops — with the sole aim of being where the kite was when it finally decided to land on the ground. If successful, they would plunder it gleefully and use the booty to augment their own kites. He also admitted

to pilfering bamboo struts from his parents’ bed for the same purpose, incurring their wrath. Rare Angon must have been delighted. Like so many other aspects of Balinese life, kites have their own festival: a four-day celebration that takes place near Sanur each July. It is a celebration of the joyful spirit that infuses anyone who takes the reins of one. It’s also an opportunity for representatives of different villages to come together and, essentially, play a big game of my-kite’sbetter-than-yours. Like big groups of freewheeling kids, each village presents their creation with great fanfare to be judged, admired, and flown. Millions of rupiah and tremendous efforts are staked on the construction of enormous kites as wide as a two-lane road — limited only by the size of the island’s highways. Tails can be as long as a hundred metres, and the pride of the banjar hinges on presenting a beautiful, stylish, and skyworthy kite to the watching throngs. The activity becomes an important source of bonding and unity as large swathes of the population come together to devote themselves to kite production, from kids to the elderly. Over the course of four days, about 1,500 kites soar, loop, and swirl over the skies of Padang Galak, transporting onlookers and animating the spirit of Rare Angon. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a couple of ‘factories’ where the kites are made, meet the people who work there, and see their handiwork in various stages of completion. I say ‘factories’ because they bear little resemblance to any factory I’ve seen in Europe. The first consisted mainly of two smiling young men tinkering with their creations in a manner more reminiscent of keen hobbyists than assembly line workers. Butterflies, ships, fish, and all manner of other designs adorned the walls of the simple warehouse. The second sported a smattering of chickens meandering their way around the grass, a small pond (in which bobbed, bizarrely, two rather flat-looking footballs), a small truck loaded with piles of kites ready to be transported all the way to the USA, and a gaggle of young women cheerily stencilling fiery patterns on what would become the heads of dragons. I discovered that children of kite-makers begin to learn the tricks of the trade when they are small, and that some of their creations can soar to heights of 200 metres. I held a bamboo frame in my hands and marvelled at the lightness and intricacy of its construction. I noted approvingly that the larger factory was run as a co-operative enterprise (the smaller one, with only two workers, didn’t seem to require much in the way of hierarchical structure). I left with an enduring sense of the pride and generosity of the people who gave themselves to this craft and upheld their traditions, whose job descriptions, if they had them, might read "joy creator".

passions

david's

desa transcending boundaries, david collins provides some handy hints about building on bali.

"I’m in the final stages of developing a small, special community of homes near Ubud called Desa Kerasan — it’s an example of all I’ve learned and tried to master in the many years I’ve devoted myself to the design and building of fine homes. Its whole is greater than the sum of its parts — an idyllic community in an idyllic setting that snuggles into a river valley in the village of Junjungan. Though mostly spec-built a couple of the houses at Desa Kerasan were developed for individual buyers. Throughout the process of building one in particular for full-time Ubud residents I was able to share (they would describe it as preaching) my thoughts on what makes for successful design. Two nuggets of information stood out with them. One, with humor, was my comment that of all the places on the job that demands flawless craftsmanship the most important is the area directly in front of the commode — an area of consistent and close observation. The other had to do with my efforts to win over buyers before they even walk into one of my homes. When I discuss it with them they tell me they knew they were going to love it before the front door was opened. I planned it that way. I encourage prospective home builders to consider not only the home design, but the bigger picture, and understand why it matters In my career I’ve always been a craft-based, or artisan, builder specialising in my own spec-built homes, and the design and build of fine homes for others. And for as long I can remember I have been in pursuit of that something special, some form of built-in magic, that I could instill into my projects. I’ve had the opportunity to tour many new and freshly remodeled homes — from simple cottages to grand mcmansions — with most boasting the latest this and that of material and technology. Sometimes I leave impressed but often I depart bemused by someone’s keen skill at creating a soulless “home”. Thinking about it over time I realised I could do better by identifying what makes a place nice and comfortable to be in. I know when I connect with a space, I describe that space as soulful, and when I am charmed by a space it encourages me to remain there. My focus, then, is not on features, they are a given, but rather on the far less tangible — soul satisfying charm. How can one build charm into a house? You can build something onto a house, as in building unique details, and that can create very rewarding surface charm. That’s good, and I do that, but my real aim is to build in a charming interaction between house and occupant. Through observation and networking with others I have steadily been able to define and identify good concepts and skillful planning. Pleasing home design is not rocket science and by now we humans have a few thousand years of trial and error

to guide us in the task. Thoughtful spatial planning and careful articulation goes a long way in creating the charm I seek. A pleasing design is always a good starting place. And to that I like to add an additional layer to complement and celebrate the home itself. In this sense I try to add value beyond the front door and even beyond homesite. I realised I could articulate the journey — the arrival, and the introduction to one of my homes. What could be nicer for a happy (prospective) homeowner than to take a pleasant drive round a corner to a glimpse of paradise ahead, drift onto a welcome landing, and walk into the wide open arms of home? So I spelled it out for myself in the simple lay terms I understand — pick a great neighborhood, find a killer homesite, position the building for dramatic effect (from a distance and close-up), frame the access (by car or by foot) for more drama, and end it all with an exceptional view or focal point delivered upon crossing the threshold. When I began to work in Bali this area of design became more important and a little easier to manipulate. Locations are uniquely different, distant panoramas of or from a homesite are common. And, of course, one has a nearly free hand in terms of scope and style. What I’m saying is choose your area/village very carefully. I lean towards pleasing aesthetics but there are many other issues at play here. Give us, and I mean “us” — the people driving by — something pretty to view. Design an attractive house. Give yourself something pretty to look at when you pull into the driveway. I can’t understand why people treat the parking area like a utility or storage area — it is the last thing and first thing you see when leaving or arriving so make it count. And give yourself something cool to look at when you walk in the door — a stunning view or stunning build. I chose Junjungan in which to develop Desa Kerasan because of its classic Bali style — rice fields, traditional architecture, and impressive temples. The journey to the village from Ubud is, at times, spectacular. I chose the land because it was hidden, beautiful, and offered impressive views. I carved out and built the access road to make a statement and I designed the community plan to best compliment the site, not maximise the number of homes I could build. I designed the houses to be welcoming retreats. The place feels right and a lot of that will never change. When we journey home from far or near we cross numerous thresholds and I try to manipulate the more immediate crossings to heighten anticipation and reward. It works well because it creates an authentic, rewarding, and lasting experience. That’s what good design is all about."

www.desakerasan.com

andrew hall finds love and loses a friend . . . and ponders the meaning of both. In one of our heart-to-hearts a woman I love and I discussed the notion of jealousy and what it really means to be jealous. I’m no George Clooney — more like a balding Jean Claude van Damme — so I can understand why she might be concerned about the plethora of women who fall at my feet on a daily basis . . . Handy on a rainy day in Ubud when you want to keep your flip-flops dry. Those of you who know me will be sticking your fingers down your throats at this point. Those of you who don’t will merely think me a tosser. You’re all on the money. Although I could (and probably will) write reams about this precious personage; this wonderful being who has captivated me so completely, this yarn is actually about another who, until recently, could legitimately lay claim to a piece of my heart — my dog, Charlie. He died two days ago (at the time of writing) in the most horrible way. He died with honour. He died looking into my eyes. He died without whinging about dying. He died despite the love Francesca (who probably loved him more than me — less complicated) and I surrounded him with. Charlie died because some ignorant . . . person . . . dipped a dead rat in poison and tossed it over a tall wall into the garden of a house I was minding for some absent friends (along with their three dogs). The other dogs, being older, probably smelled a rat but Charlie wasn’t yet four-monthsold and, as with all little takkas, curiosity and enthusiasm blew caution into the weeds. My beautiful golden lab convulsed his way into the next life on a stainless steel table at a veterinary clinic, only 100 metres or so from the house. When it was over and the tears had temporarily subsided Francesca asked me what kind of meaning should we try to draw from the whole sorry mess. “Jealousy,” I answered. She looked askance. To me it was very clear — I have lived here for a goodly while and have witnessed the manifestations of this dreadful emotion on numerous occasions. It’s almost a national sport.

No, it’s not written about very much in the context of this “paradise isle” (a term that makes me want to throw up). But it stalks the villages and towns with a stealthy viciousness that blackens hearts and robs the world of beauty. Of love. Charlie was pure joy. He invented his own game whereby he would hide his ball underneath his body and pretend that the ball was actually hiding from him. He would feign genuine surprise when he got up and “found” it – then he would chuck several laps of the garden . . . and bite me on the toe. He made me laugh. But, apparently, there’s way too much beauty in this world; too much joy; there’s certainly too much innocence — and far too many who, because they are weak and stupid, will work to destroy and exploit. I have never approached my relationships (with people or pets) in a possessive fashion. I feel blessed that we have the opportunity to spend time together — to learn our lessons; to share whatever it is we have to share. I don’t do jealousy. So I’m a bit stumped when someone sees something so obviously delightful and important, and actually, consciously, willfully decides to kill it (whether literally or metaphorically). To be honest it could have been any of the four dogs . . . in some ways Charlie took one for the team. I think it says somewhere in the Bible, “. . . for I am a jealous God . . .” Then, indeed, you are a weak and stupid God as well. What the no-nuts murderer of my dog doesn’t get is that he has taken nothing from me . . . nothing. I still hold the love for Charlie — in fact it is stronger than it ever was. He still makes me laugh. And if Francesca — who is on her own journey in the world — discovers another with whom she wishes to be, it would be disingenuous of me to wish her anything other than great happiness and fulfillment. But to you, you gutless murdering bastard, I hope we meet one day. And it is my fervent wish that you really and truly believe in karma.

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