Setting boundarie S
How to draw t H
Welcome to
‘‘
Prepare to drift off into a dream world of opal jewellery
In this issue, we celebrate and draw inspiration from glittering seas, the glowing harvest sun, the magic of the natural world, the rainbow of hope and Pride – and the myriad of other things that opal (natural or synthetic) represents for us as individuals across the world.
i confess, it’s one of my absolute favourite stones, and i suspect many of you – and your clients –feel the same way! it’s a fantastic choice for the studio cabinet, putting on a head-turning show of light and colour, and hitting a range of price points thanks to the availability of both natural and synthetic stones.
Perhaps you’re already fully clued up on this captivating stone, but if not, turn to page 14 where Pat daly from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) shares insights into opal’s formation and array of natural colours. then, prepare to drift off into a dream world of opal jewellery as you turn the pages of the showcase that follows. Featuring natural and
synthetic stones set in gold and titanium, it’s sure to inspire you for new stock and curations.
Elsewhere in this issue we’ve got advice aplenty, from top tips for attending industry events (pages 34 and 44); to a focus on setting and maintaining life/work boundaries (page 46); and your step-by-step guide to the stacked lobe, courtesy of Nicole Mitchell of sacred Gold (page 41).
so, all that remains for me to say is enjoy the magazine, stay well, keep fighting the good fight with those lobes (not long now!), and to all of you Piercer trade show and UKAPP Conference attendees, i hope you had/have a fantastic, fulfilling time. You never know, we might see you there...
With all best wishes,
Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief
_
o pa L e N c ha N t me N t
Get to know the opals in your cabinet – and decide which pieces to stock next – with this extra special jewellery showcase, featuring an intro by Gem-A
06 News a N d views
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
12 dates for your diary
Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months
26 _ f i ve years stro N g
C elebrating a milestone anniversary, Norvoch reflects on the road travelled so far, looks ahead to an exciting future and provides you all with some birthday treats!
28 Lear N i N g through experie N c es
Back on home turf after a whirlwind trip to the APP Conference in Las Vegas as Legacy Scholars, Gemma Suter and Matt Clarke tell us how it all went – and why others should apply
34 _ s tarti N g out right
If you’re an industry event noob, the UK Association of Professional Piercers’ (UKAPP) Becky Crossan has some top tips to help you have a successful first experience
36 _ e L u sive ephemera pt 1
In the first of a two-parter, Body Piercing Archive Founder Paul King looks back at the magazines that have shaped and reflected our piercing communities
41 t i me for tech N i que
One of Sacred Gold’s most experienced professionals, Nicole Mitchell shares her skills in stacked lobe piercings and curation
44 _ a s k the p i erci N g p i skie Our resident Agony Faery is here to provide some supernatural insight to answer your burning questions
46 _ d r awi N g the L i N e S etting boundaries is one of the biggest steps you can take towards easing burnout, as returning contributor Nikki Lloyd-Proctor of Bold and Gold Piercing Art explains
50 _ e N d - N ote i N s po Meet Isobelle Tallett-Smith of The Piercing Pixie in Tutshill, Chepstow, who started her successful piercing business at the age of 20!
Launched in mid-August was piercer Damiano Di Nunno’s first-ever solo venture: Midas Piercing Boutique, located in Blue House Yard in Wood Green, London.
Having begun his career in Camden Town, Damiano spent the first couple of years striving to work to a higher level of quality and service – a determination that only increased after attending the UKAPP conference in 2021. For the past three years he has worked at Astrid and Miyu, which allowed him to work to APP guidelines and refine his knowledge and skills for ear piercings in particular.
Now, he’s going it alone! Offering ear and nose piercings as well as permanent welded jewellery, at Midas Piercing Boutique he will be using only APPverified jewellery, with
piercings performed in aseptic technique.
“I’m having so many mixed feelings and emotions all at once, but overall I’m very excited to make it happen!” says Damiano. “I believe I reached a point in my career where this seems to be the only step forward to express myself, and my way to deliver this service to the community. I will do my very best with each and every one of my clients.” @midaspiercingboutique
website, Tish Lyon has sought to elevate the wholesale experience by introducing enhanced navigation, exclusive offers and exciting product launches. Drawing on its passion for the latest trends in piercing jewellery, the brand aims to offer its wholesale members cuttingedge jewellery, including the Wild West and Coven collections.
With site navigation designed for effortless browsing through various product categories and a seamless shopping experience, the new platform will enable members to easily explore Tish Lyon’s extensive collection of luxury piercing jewellery, featuring an array of stunning designs that embody elegance, creativity and quality.
Tish Lyon, a UK-based luxury piercing jewellery brand , is thrilled to announce the launch of its brand-new website, offering an exclusive wholesale experience. For the first time in its history, Tish Lyon will have its own dedicated online platform, revolutionising the way that studios can access its exquisite range of products.
With its newly launched
“This significant milestone represents a new chapter in our Tish Lyon journey, allowing us to provide an enhanced and streamlined experience, not just for our loyal customer base, but also new piercers worldwide,” says Natasha Lyons (pictured), the creator behind the brand.
To embark on the luxury journey into wholesale piercing jewellery with Tish Lyon, and enjoy a host of benefits along the way, visit the new website at tishlyon.com
Shannon Nicola has recently unveiled her new studio, Amethyst Adornments, located on the first floor of a beautiful historic building in Chester’s iconic Bridge s t reet w e st Row.
Having begun her career on the Isle of w i ght, s h annon moved to her current location around four years ago, working out of Minerva Lodge Tattoo Club where she built her business into Cheshire’s only high-end private piercing studio, as well as Cheshire’s only APP and UKAPP studio/piercer –before being given an opportunity she couldn’t refuse!
Bringing a sleek, modern interior look and feel to traditional surroundings, her new studio uses the best names and brands in the industry, including BVLA, Anatometal, Industrial s t rength and NeoMetal. A destination location, the building also houses a barber and tattoo studio, bringing three complementary businesses together.
“It feels bizarre to say, but I’m nearing 10 years in this industry, and I couldn’t imagine doing anything else. After working on the outskirts of Chester for four years, the time just felt right to finally open my own doors for Amethyst Adornments. I’m super excited to see where this new venture leads!” says s h annon.
One for all you forever-learners who love a podcast – have you checked out ‘Tea with Dea’ yet?
Hosted by piercer Deanna Golding, it’s packed with UK-specific archive discussions and interviews with members of the piercing community. The most recent episode, for example, focuses on piercing pioneer w a rren Deane, who worked in Brighton in the early 90s.
“I started this podcast after speaking with another piercer about the UK piercing archive; there isn’t much out there that is documented when it comes to the UK scene, and finding information from as recent as the 2000s is challenging. But researching has been so much fun so far!” Deanna enthuses.
“In between research, I do interviews with piercers, jewellery manufacturers, front counter, jewellery specialists and other peers who are important to the industry. These interviews aren’t serious, they’re laid back, and we talk about the history of how the person got into the industry, what made them interested in the piercing/body modification world and more. If you fall under one of those categories you are welcome to reach out to get involved, even if it’s a mini interview – can totally do that!”
The podcast is available to listen to on audio platforms Spotify and Apple Podcast, as well as on YouTube in video format, and be sure to follow @_teawithdea on Instagram for information on the latest interviews, episodes and piercing archive material finds.
The (very unscientific) baromeTer of piercing populariTy!
What’s hot and what’s not as of the end of July? The social media community has spoken...
o ral piercings in general J us T don’ T see M To be T his suMMer’s Fashion.
labreT sn u g nipple FlaT Tragus
QuiT e a FeW T ypes have been F laT lining T his M onT h.
There’s no pre T ending iT isn’ T The school holidays righT no W, eh!
A big thank you to everyone who took part this time! Keep an eye on our Instagram stories and posts for more polls to get involved with for the next issue of @thesharpend_magazine
The uk a ssociation of p rofessional p iercers ( ukapp ) is very excited to let you know that, at time of writing, 85% of its conference tickets have already sold! The Manchesterbased event, this year held 24 to 26 s eptember, has expanded for 2023 to accommodate 40% more attendees than previous years and it looks like it could very well be another sell-out.
s nap your ticket up now before it’s too late at ukapp.org.uk/shop
as well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. so, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.
There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!
send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The sharp end Magazine).
Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...
uK app Conferen C e 2023
24-26 s eptember
Radisson Blu Edwardian, Manchester ukapp.org.uk
s outh s eminars
17 f ebruary 2024
Novotel, Reading @southseminars
t he Wee sCottish p ier C ing eXpo (sponsored by Buddha Jewelry Organics with support from Stiletto UK) 3-5 m arch 2024
5 p ier C er t rade
s ho W 3.5 o ctober 2024
(dates announced soon!)
Dublin @piercertradeshowuk
eX tra date added!
The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh @theweescottishpiercingexpo
p ier C er t rade s ho W 3.0 16-17 m arch 2024
Manchester Central (at the Tattoo Tea Party) @piercertradeshowuk
i nternationa L inspiration
Bm Xnet
7-10 September
Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org
apa r itorno a LL e
o rigini Vo L 6
22-23 October
Pescara, Italy
@ritornoalleorigini.apa
app a nnua L
Conferen C e and eXpo
23-28 June 2024
Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org
Re ding someone else’s copy?
g et your own FREE subscription at the-sharp-end.co.uk
Pat Daly, senior tutor at Gem- a , welcomes us to the ma G i cal world of opal with fascinatin G insi G h ts into the G e mstone’s formation and its dazzlin G array of colours
It was known to and valued by the Greeks and Romans of classical times, but it did not become widely available until the extensive deposits in Australia were found in the late 19th century.
Opal can produce a brilliant display of rainbow colours in an infinite number of combinations and patterns. It consists of amorphous silica incorporating some water. In its crystalline form, silica (silicon oxide) is known to the gem trade as quartz and its many varieties. There is no regular arrangement of atoms in opal, but silica can be present as spheres, about 150 to 300 nanometres wide (a nanometre is one millionth of a millimetre). Where these spheres occur as regular three-dimensional arrays, they can split white light into its spectral colours. The iridescent colours depend on the size of the spheres. Those at the smaller end of the range produce
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, or Gem-A, is the world’s longestestablished provider of gemmology education.
It offers a range of courses, from one-day workshops and short courses to its prestigious and globally recognised Gemmology and Diamond Diplomas.
Visit gem-a.com to find out more. Im A g es: GEM-A
violet and blue, while larger ones are responsible for green to yellow, and orange to red. The best opals contain arrays which, between them, display all the colours of the rainbow.
Iridescent opal is called precious opal. Some people use the term ‘noble opal’ for iridescent stones that are not of top quality. In black opals, iridescence, or play of colour, is seen in opaque stones with a black body colour. Translucent to opaque grey and white opals, and transparent white stones, may display lovely effects, but it is generally agreed that black opals are the best. Black and white opals may be fashioned into the regular shapes that are favoured in the general gem trade, and that you see in jewellery.
Brightly iridescent opal may occupy what were once fractures in rocks. The best-known of these is a banded brown, ironrich sandstone. The seams of opal may be too thin to detach from this rock, some of which is usually retained in the polished stones. o f ten, it is not possible to cut regularly shaped stones with convex upper surfaces, so irregular, freeform shapes are produced. These boulder opals may be extremely pretty, and they lend themselves to unconventional, individually designed pieces of jewellery.
Precious opal may fill cavities that form when fossils and crystal groups are dissolved from rocks. It may be found in
the shapes of seashells and even replacing the skeletons of marine reptiles from the age of dinosaurs.
Australia is the main producer of precious opal, followed by Ethiopia, Brazil and other, less prolific sources. Some noniridescent opal varieties are also attractive and desirable. Fire opal, most of which is from Mexico, is bright orange to red, and may be transparent enough to cut into faceted stones. Relatively inexpensive translucent red to pink, yellow, green and blue stones, which make pretty cabochons and beads, are found in South America, especially Peru.
Man-made materials substituting for precious opal have been marketed since the 1970s. Some of them have compositions that are close to that of opal, whilst others contain a high proportion of artificial resin. These materials have regular structures of spheres, and produce iridescence in a similar way to opal. They are properly termed ‘imitation opal’, although you may be more used to seeing them referred to as ‘synthetic’ or ‘faux opal’ – a popular and often more affordable choice for body jewellery today.
And on that note, let’s open the treasure chest of opal jewellery – both natural and synthetic – that’s waiting to grace your cabinets...
“Opals are a testament to the Earth’s artistry and capture the essence of nature’s vibrant hues! The unique arrangement of an opal’s silica spheres causes light to diffract, creating mesmerising flashes of colour and shimmer.
I love how opals can tie together or complement nearly any gemstone combination!”
Krista Pedersen, BVLA Gem Department Manager bvla.com
“I love the way that opals make me feel. They’re really quite unique gemstones unlike any other with their iridescent rainbow colours that are enhanced and reflected by light. The fact that they’re an ancient symbol of hope, purity and truth makes them extra special.
ler oi offers synthetic opal in all of our titanium jewellery, and a choice of synthetic or genuine opal in any of our precious metal designs. The pieces pictured are both from the ler oi ‘ h aute c øuture Bijøux c ollection ©™’.”
Julie Truell, COO LeRoi Inc www.leroi.com
“White opals are a stunning way to add a subtle pop of colour and dimension to a piercing or curation. They have a soft, ethereal quality to them that I love. My favourite way to see them paired in a curation is with yellow gold and cubic zirconia. ”
E mily Fisher, Marketing @NeoMetal neometaljewelry.eu
As Norvoch celebrates its fifth anniversary, the brand reflects on the road travelled so far and looks ahead to an exciting future
The founder of the Norvoch jewellery brand can date his love of high-end precious jewellery as far back as his early childhood, marvelling at the infinite beauty in the world. As an adult, he duly began working in the jewellery industry, and after more than 20 years spent honing his skills and knowledge, he decided it was time to breathe new life and imagination into his work.
Setting out to place more focus on body jewellery – one of many fast-growing fashion trends of the 21st century – he invested countless hours, days, weeks and years in exploring this niche. With contemporary style at the core of his business, built on the foundations of his experience, knowledge and expertise within the sector, he launched Norvoch in 2018 with a catalogue of high-quality jewellery designed especially for a generation in love with the distinctive style of gold adornment.
Since then, Norvoch has become a specialist in the production of unique and highquality gold body jewellery, with a team that prides itself on the quality of materials used, the original designs, and in embracing individual style.
“Here at Norvoch, we believe that beauty, grace and fashion have all been combined to develop an individual style, and we are always ready and open to new developing trends and ideas that give every individual the opportunity to stand out through their style,” the brand explains.
As a company that works hard on building strong working relationships, confidence and trust, this year the brand also made
Piercer perspectives
“Everything Norvoch launches has beautiful designs; the collections are always amazing; and they’re always improving as a brand. I can’t think of anything more to ask for because whatever I think of, they already make. Their customer service, jewellery and quality are amazing!”
Ramon Tribe, Puerto Rico @tupiercerfavorito
“I have been ordering from Norvoch for a few years now, and I continue to be more and more excited about their jewellery with every order I receive. The polish is always immaculate, the cup and divot seams are always flawless, and the turnaround times are unheard of. From staple jewellery options to fun and fancy, they continue to outdo themselves time and time again.”
Ian Bell, Texas, US @ianmbell
“I met Norvoch during the APP Conference and was instantly drawn to the immense craftsmanship of their products. The jewellery has a silky smooth polish that is immediately eye catching. Upon handling the jewellery, all working mechanisms are top-tier quality; clicker hinges open and clasps shut securely; all of their threadless pins are gold, durable, and take secure tight bends. They’re always creating new designs, and have endless combinations to pick from. I can’t recommend Norvoch enough.”
Tanner, Colorado, US @piercingsbytanner
its debut at the APP Conference in Las Vegas, enabling the team to meet its customers – and future customers – in person.
“Up until then, we had only communicated with our customers virtually, so at APP we finally got the chance to put faces to names. It was an amazing experience and we were so happy to be part of it – we returned home with lots of motivation and inspiration to make our brand even better.
“We met clients from all over the world, who also invited us to participate in other piercing expos in their countries, so we hope to join our international clients soon, as well as returning for next year’s APP Conference!”
Now, as well as evolving plans to develop the brand into the future, Norvoch is focused on marking a huge milestone in its success story: its five-year anniversary.
“When we started our company five years ago, we knew it would take a lot of hard work and dedication to grow, but with our determination and vision we have grown exponentially since 2018!” the brand enthuses.
“We are very grateful to everyone who has helped our company grow and allowed us to do what we love every day, and so to celebrate our anniversary we are going to have lots of surprises for our customers, such as giveaways and discounts.”
Be sure to keep an eye on Norvoch’s social media for more details on these special offers!
M ATT Cl A r k E of The Tattooed Gent and Onyx Body Piercing in the West Midlands and G E MMA Su T E r of Rogue Piercing in Nottingham were two of the lucky candidates chosen for this year’s Legacy Scholarship to attend the APP Conference. l o uise Hoffman catches up with them to find out how it all went – and why others should apply
How did you first hear about the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) scholarship programme? And what were your initial feelings about it?
GEMMA: During my first year at Rogue, studio owner Aiden had talked to me about his experience as a scholar and introduced me to some other volunteers (Andre, Loreia, Jamie, Alicia, Aiko) who all told me how volunteering for the APP had changed their lives. Aiden really encouraged me to apply but I never thought that I would make the scholarship. I’ve struggled with imposter syndrome since the day I picked
up a needle and it did not get easier when I was applying. I’d accepted that I wouldn’t be accepted!
MATT: I first heard about the scholarship several years ago, and had wanted to apply ever since. On New Year’s Day this year, I noticed a post on Facebook asking for applications for the 2023 APP Conference... with a deadline of 15 January! If it weren’t for my partner and close friends who encouraged me to apply, I don’t think I would have. Confidence is a daily struggle for me too, but I’m proud I didn’t give up on this.
What was the main reason you decided to take the plunge and apply?
MATT : i have spent a lot of time supporting those around me and i decided i wanted to try and do something for myself and my own career.
GEMMA: i really, really wanted to give something back to the industry. p i ercing has changed who i am as a person and i ’ ve learnt and grown so much because of the space piercing has given me. i just wanted to try and put my hat in the ring.
Who can apply? And what is involved in the application?
GEMMA: t h ere are lots of different scholarships. i applied for the Legacy
Scholarship, which is for people who have been piercing for at least six months prior to the conference date and who are over 21 years old.
t h e application consisted of filling out lots of information about myself, providing two references from industry peers (thank you a n dre and Loreia!) and creating a 5- to 10-minute video explaining who i am, why i need financial assistance to attend and why i deserve the scholarship. t h at was the hardest question to answer. i did a very awkward p o wer p o int presentation video but hey, they liked it!
MATT: My application was the same. i have to give massive thanks to h a nnah at Onyx Body p i ercing for my reference and to g e orgia
“Just doing the application was an achievement and taught me a lot”
(@piercingsbyg) for the incredible p o wer p o int presentation. t h ey were both so sweet and heart warming. My video was just me in front of the camera and this was probably the most difficult part. t h e anxiety and imposter syndrome were huge walls for me to overcome; just doing the application was an achievement and taught me a lot.
How long did you have to wait for the verdict? And how did you feel when you heard you’d been chosen?
MATT: a bout a month after submitting my application i had two video interviews, one with Caitlin, the app a dministrator, and one with Cale Belford who is now the app Vice p resident. i t was only a few days after when my phone rang. i was settling down for my dinner when Caitlin called me. it was definitely a moment of all the emotions!
GEMMA: Yeah, everything just moved so fast! i sent off my video application at the beginning of January 2023, and found out on 9 February that i ’d made the first cut from the videos. i had two follow-up interviews, one with Caitlin and one with r yan Ouellette. t hen, on 23 February, ryan
called me to let me know i had the scholarship. t he wave of emotions was, and still is, indescribable – anxiety, fear, excitement, overwhelm and unadulterated joy!
What was the energy like leading up to the event, and travelling there?
GEMMA: i tried to keep my cool for as long as possible by compartmentalising the trip. i was full of anxiety travelling, as i ’d not been on a plane since 2018 and had never travelled by myself. But as soon as i got on the plane, everything was fine.
MATT: i found it exciting and definitely overwhelming at times. Flying out from the U was surprisingly easy and straightforward, and Caitlin was extremely helpful, reassuring and supportive throughout.
What was your role at the event, as part of the scholarship?
GEMMA: a little bit of a lot of things. i helped set up the event by moving and unpacking a lot of boxes, i sold merch, greeted people, checked in piercers for the classrooms, worked on the Expo door, ran back and forth a million times to different rooms, fed and watered the people around me, set up and shut down the parties, and (sadly) helped to pack up the entire conference.
MATT: i think another important role for us was checking in on everyone, especially the other scholars. Our group of scholars have been bonding since February and it felt like a solid group of friends before we’d even met. We would check in with and support one another every day. Even down to the basics like, have you had enough water/food etc. Las Vegas is a wild place and it was very important to have such a great support network.
How did it feel to be there?
MATT: to finally be there after six months since first applying was a surreal moment. n ot just the conference but Las Vegas
“This whole experience will change your life... do iT, apply!”
itself. n othing will get you prepared for it, it’s truly mesmerising. i ’ll never forget g emma’s face when she first stepped out on the Las Vegas strip! <laughs>
GEMMA: i ’ve never said ‘wow’ and ‘wild’ so much in my life. But that’s how everything felt: immensely overwhelming but absolutely incredible.
What were the main things you learned from the experience, and how do you think they’ll help you going forward in your careers?
GEMMA: i learnt how to be vulnerable and how to accept vulnerability from others. i learnt a whole lot about the importance of what we do, not just for our clients but for ourselves. i t’s for sure made me feel like a more rounded piercer and person.
MATT: i t taught me to be myself, and likewise to accept being vulnerable as a person and as a piercer. i t was something i wasn’t expecting from the experience. Being part of the volunteer group, and being accepted and welcomed into the group with open arms and warmth, was really special for me.
What were the standout moments for you?
MATT: t he sheer size of the conference! t his year it had a record number of attendees, with 1,400 from 40-plus different countries! i got to hang out with piercers from all over the world. i t was fascinating to hear their perspectives of the piercing industry in their countries.
GEMMA: i got to nerd out with a whole bunch of people i really look up to, at the p unk r ock Museum with Fat Mike! i met Fat Mike! a nd Jef Saunders was there! With Steve Joyner! i t blew my fucking mind.
Why should others apply for this?
MATT: t his whole experience will change your life. t he people you’ll meet, the connections
you’ll make along the way, the experience of travelling, going to Las Vegas... the list goes on. Do it, apply, you may just surprise yourself!
i f anyone would like to know more about applying for the scholarship, the experience, or is already planning to attend next year and would like any information, my inbox is always open for discussion @mattclarkepiercing. i ’ll also be at the U kapp Conference this year, so feel free to ask me any questions.
Lastly, planning a return journey?
MATT: a bsolutely! i ’m hoping to be back on the volunteer team again next year.
GEMMA: Even if i have to sell a kidney, i want to be there more than anything in the world!
As the Administrator for the APP i do a myriad of tasks, mostly conference-related. Managing the Legacy Scholarship programme sponsored by the a pp is one of my favourite parts of the job. i describe the scholar experience as transformative.
Originally started in 2002 as the a l D. Scholarship (in honour of a l D. Sowers), it was renamed in 2021 to the Legacy Scholarship by the a s sociation’s Board of Directors in order to recognise the legacy of all of those that have contributed to the development of the a pp ’ s educational offerings.
i ’ ve been part of the selection of the scholars since 2003.
a t this time, r y an Ouellette, Cale Belford and i serve on this sub-committee. a p plications usually become available in October the year prior to the a pp Conference and are open until the end of January, with decisions usually made by the start of March. ( a l l dates subject to change relative to the dates of the conference.)
1. Must be 21 or older by the time the a pp Conference happens.
2. Must have never attended the a pp Conference; have only attended one conference; or it must have been five years or more since attending the conference.
3. Must be working as a piercer in a studio and have at least six months’ piercing experience by the time conference starts.
4. Only a single applicant from each studio/per year.
What the committee looks at: Financial need – this scholarship is for piercers who cannot attend without this assistance.
p a rticipation in the industry outside of their own studio.
Demonstrated interest in bettering their piercing skills/circumstances.
Excitement/enthusiasm for the opportunity.
Spirit of volunteering/ giving back.
Demonstrated work ethic.
h u mility/openness to learn.
a p plicants fill out an online application form, submit an introductory video, and if they make the initial cut of applicants they go on to have interviews with at least two of the committee members. We have a long history of scholars coming from all over the world. a p plicants from outside the US are encouraged to apply. (While English does not have to be your first language, you should be able to read, speak and understand English as our conference and classes are run in English with no translation.)
Head to safepiercing.org and follow the APP on Facebook and Instagram @safepiercing to find out more!
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If
you’re attending your first ever industry event this year,
you might be feeling
a little unsure about the etiquette, so Public Outreach/ Vice President of the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) Becky c r o S S a n has some top tips!
Whether you’re a piercing conference veteran or a first-time attendee, a piercer gathering can be as daunting as it is exciting! These tips should help you to have an enjoyable and safe event, so you can learn as much as possible.
Plan your day
Look at the schedule ahead of time and decide which classes you would like to see the most. This helps reduce overwhelm and indecision on the day.
Pace yourself
You don’t need to be in a class every minute of the day! Sometimes a groundbreaking moment will come from conversations outside the classroom. And remember that you can take a break in your room if you feel overwhelmed.
Set a shopping budget
It’s easy to go wild when you see all of the beautiful jewellery up-close. Make a list of things that you’re looking for to keep yourself on track.
Allow yourself variety
Piercing technique classes are super important, but sometimes you have to take a break from the nitty gritty detail to enjoy a styling class, some piercing history, or some self-care advice.
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.
The organisation has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards, and health and safety criteria such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens.
The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.
For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk
Self care
Drink water, eat lunch, and make sure you don’t get too drunk of an evening. Nobody wants to miss classes due to a hangover.
There is no cool kids club
Everyone was a new attendee once upon a time, so don’t be afraid to speak to people. Try not to feel intimidated by people who have big personalities online, because they’re at the event for all the same reasons as you.
Join in
Evening events are a great way of getting to know people and forging friendships, but if you’re not a social creature, don’t feel bad for taking the night off to recharge your batteries.
Behave yourself
Make sure to treat others with respect, and don’t touch anybody without their consent.
Ask
If you have any concerns, questions or are feeling overwhelmed, reach out to the event organisers or a volunteer for help.
And finally, remember that we’re all in attendance because we love piercing, so we’re all on the same team!
In the first of a two-part article, Body Piercing Archive Founder PAUL KING looks back at the magazines that have shaped and reflected our piercing communities
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By request, in this article and the next we’re going to review some of the magazine titles I would consider the most important for Western piercing practices.
While dozens of publications have occasionally had an amazing and substantive article, interview or even letter to the editor, very few titles dedicated ongoing space to piercing.
Here is a shortlist of the most important ones, in order of first publication date, and presented with the caveat that it is not a complete list, and it biases English language publications (sorry, I don’t speak other languages and I live in the US, which makes finding and obtaining rare publications from other parts of the world more difficult).
The legalisation of pornography in Denmark in 1969 cleared the way for all manner of previously forbidden materials to be printed. In 1972 , soon after the law changed, a miniseries of seven magazines was published called Erotica Grotesque What this publication lacked in typed content, it far made up for in full colour images of lovely pierced models with delicate golden chains connecting to and swinging from nipples and genital piercings. The magazine set the bar for creative aesthetics, which few have surpassed!
This 1976 , half-size, solitary publication is truly a gem. An entire article could be devoted to this partially autobiographical and partially fanciful story by master piercer Doug Malloy. Doug Malloy, the pseudonym of Richard Simonton, was the gentleman who encouraged, financially supported and mentored the start of both Jim Ward’s and Alan Oversby’s piercing businesses. Most of the images in this publication are of Mr. Sebastian and no images are of Doug! The story was rebranded as ‘Confessions of a Piercing Freak’ and
appeared as a long article in several publications such as Fetish Times (1976). Long out of print and highly sought after, your best chance of getting your hands on a copy of The Art of Pierced Penises would be through Sacred Debris (they did a reprint a few years ago). Visit blurb.com/ b/9420547-adventures-ofa-piercing-freak
PFIQ was born out of necessity. On 17 November 1975, Jim Ward launched Gauntlet Enterprises. It didn’t take too long for the word to spread through the small networks of piercing enthusiasts that the first Western shop dedicated
solely to body piercing had opened. Jim Ward was flooded with letters asking, basically, two questions: “How do I meet others?” and “How do I perform a [fill in the blank] piercing?”
The 70s were long before computers and copy-andpaste key functions; Jim had to hand-type each letter and eventually had to hire an office worker to keep up on the letter writing. Growing tired of this interruption to his other tasks, such as making jewellery and piercing, Jim decided it would be more effective to start a magazine.
The premiere issue was released in October 1977 By the time Gauntlet went out of business in 1998, there were 50 issues (plus two editions of issue one, another two editions of issue two, and an unpublished issue 51). I’m biased of course, but I would argue this is the most important historical publication
on piercing to date. The book contained how -to articles called ‘Pierce with a Pro’, as well as interviews with noteworthy piercing pioneers such as Mr. Sebastian, the Incredible Til of Cardiff, Fakir Musafar, Elayne Angel, Annie Sprinkle and dozens of others. In fact, I used to require apprentices to read every issue as part of their apprenticeship. While the issues are increasingly difficult to find, Jim Ward has provided an incredible and captivating research tool: his 2011 book, Running the Gauntlet , which is still in print. Visit runningthegauntlet -book.com
Body Play gets to jump the queue, perhaps, because the first issue, meant to be a standalone edition of 1,000, was printed in 1982. However, the serial magazine didn’t actually start until 1992. Altogether, from 1992 to 2000, Fakir Musafar’s Insight Books published 19 issues (plus the original standalone 1982 issue and a bound four-issue volume). The magazine is astonishing! While 1992 might seem like a long time ago, this was 50 years into Fakir’s journey of self-exploration and body play with others. The magazine culminated and disseminated his ideas on body play and modern primitives, including
practices of piercing, tattooing, branding, corseting, foot binding, wearing high heels and gender play. (‘Gender play’ was Fakir’s term for what could be translated today as exploring the non-binary and gender performance.) The magazines were filled with Fakir’s exquisite photography, recording the historical as well as what were then the current images and stories of important figures in the piercing world: Blake Perlingieri, Cléo Dubois, Ethel Granger, Esther Saldana, Vaughn, Kristian White, Phatima, Midori, and so many other amazing and accomplished personalities.
While somewhat problematic by today’s standards, it would be ahistorical to not mention this publication. Slave
Piercings: Chastisement and Feminization of Slaves was first published around 1986 by Spartacus Publishing, one of the largest publishers of kink. This was a magazine entirely dedicated to the topics of transwomen, cross-dressing and ‘forced’ feminisation. As the title emphasised, nipple and genital (usually penis) piercings were the fulcrum of this hyper-niche publication. Issue two even included a master-slave piercing release form!
While some images were photographs, most of the issues were filled with beautiful and unique illustrations of pierced fems.
‘Intimschmuck’ translates from German as ‘intimate jewellery’ or jewellery for genital piercings. First published in 1986, this half-sized magazine is filled with incredibly ostentatious jewellery. Of particular interest are the cast gold and silver piercing weights featuring pierced torsos or intricate geometric designs. The jewellery was really over-the-top rococo stuff that provided hours of amusement. From the late 90s, publications with variations of the
title appear. These are still worth a look if you can find them.
The name sums it up. Body Art , under the editorial direction of Henry Ferguson, was first published in 1987. Unlike other piercing magazines, many wellinformed and articulate outside authors were invited to contribute, creating a rich repository of diverse and unusually high-quality information, still rare even to this day. Body painting, tattooing, African scarification and hairstyles, tattooing and of course body piercing were all covered. Additionally, there were great interviews with folks such as Mr. Sebastian, Hans of Denmark, Jack Yount, Alex Binnie and many others. The magazine ran until 1996, with a total of 23 issues. Fortunately, this magazine had a large circulation and you should have no problem finding most issues at reasonable prices, particularly in the UK, where this title was printed.
Check out the next issue of The Sharp End for the second half of this fascinating piercing publication timeline!
@bodypiercingarchive bodypiercingarchive.org
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SUPER FAST CARBON NEUTRAL SHIPPING... ... AND WE PLANT TREES FOR EVERY ORDER! That’s The Point - UK / EuropeIf your clients are clamouring for that stacked lobe look, here’s some all-important tech advice from a master of the art: Nicole Mitchell, one of the Sacred Gold studios’ most experienced professionals
o ne of my favourite piercing ‘trends’ is most definitely the mighty stacked lobe piercing! I’ve been doing these types of piercings for about eight years now, which shows when this craze began. t his is a standard ear lobe piercing, but placed a little alternatively – higher up on the lobe tissue either between two piercings or directly above one. they can be done in singles, doubles and even triples!
n ot everyone will have the sufficient anatomy – usually due to the spacing factor – so it’s vital to have an anatomy consultation beforehand.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to take you through the process...
1. Here you can see I have marked out where the cartilage of this individual’s ear comes down to. This is important so as not to skim or pierce it, as it is quite an uneven surface and can complicate healing. The small dot is where the single stacked lobe piercing will go. If the person is wearing jewellery that is in the way, or if you are marking between existing piercings, you may need to remove the jewellery for accurate marks and to have more space to brace the tissue when piercing.
It’s vital to have a nice flat space on the lobe for the piercing, and if you are doing
two or more make sure they are not marked too close together, as migration can be a culprit here. If doing multiple piercings to create a triangular shape, you will have to make a decision with your client as to whether it’s best to mark them completely evenly, or to mark them for the particular jewellery if using different shaped or sized ends. You will want to choose jewellery on a smaller scale (around 2mm to 4mm) for these piercings, whether doing a single or multiple.
2. I pierce stacked lobes freehand, using my fingers to brace the tissue. Always be extra careful to give yourself enough leverage and space at the back so as not to stick yourself if you are also using
a freehand technique. It is possible to use small Pennington clamps as well. But do be aware of tissue distortion when bracing the ear.
3. I personally do these piercings front to back, on the mark made, to ensure maximum accuracy. It is possible to do them back to front with great success, however! I usually do the uppermost piercing first, if doing a set of two or more, to ensure that I’ve taken the smaller, trickier space first. I use a disposable taper consisting of a needle blank and 26g transfer snip to transfer the jewellery into the piercing.
4. The finished result! A stacked lobe with a 2mm Hammered Disc from BVLA.
A Gemological Institute of America Applied Jewelry Professional (GIA AJP) and UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) member, Nicole Mitchell has been piercing for more than 10 years – eight of those years being at Love Hate Social Club, before moving on to Sacred Gold studios. Sacred Gold now has three studios in London, located in Kings Cross, Soho and Covent Garden, the latter of which Nicole is now primarily based at. She has also guested at Nine Moons in New York.
How do you deal with overwhelm at industry events? – Wallflower Industry events can be super overwhelming and daunting, full of social interactions, education and, in my experience, loooots of booze!
Our resident Agony Faery is here to provide some supernatural insight to answer your burning questions...
From years of attendance, I would say the trick is to not try and do EVERYTHING. There are so many classes to choose from and so many opportunities for socialising that it can feel like you need to cram it all in, but you will get overwhelmed and burnt out.
It’s absolutely ok to not do every single class – in fact, it’s usually physically impossible (unless your name is Hermione Granger and you have a cute lil necklace that turns back time). A lot of the most popular classes – at UKAPP, for instance – run every time, and there are webinars made available throughout the year, so you could maybe reach out to speakers and see if they are likely to run the class again.
definitely needed. At events I personally feel like I HAVE to talk to everyone and I’m being rude if I don’t, but I also know I physically do not have the energy for it. So I make a conscious effort to monitor my social battery.
the head with the new knowledge.
If you find your social battery flashing at you, don’t be afraid to say: “Hey! Would absolutely love it if we could continue this conversation a little later, I’m feeling a bit tired!” Everyone is super friendly and understanding so no one will judge you for wanting to take some time out. I would say the majority of us are neurospicy, so we all pretty much live in a constant state of overwhelm. Being neurodiverse myself, I really struggle with too many sounds in the classrooms and social settings, so I always make sure to take my loop headphones with me as an added measure.
Meditations after class, focusing on the breath, tapping/ shaking to wake the body up after hours of sitting down – these practices will all help to energise you. And if in doubt, dance it out! Go back to your room, put on your fave song and dance like a lunatic – this will help shift any stagnant energy after hours of interacting and absorbing not only knowledge but all the energies around you.
Finally, grounding. If you can’t get your feet on some earth you could try washing your hands and feet with cold water. Pay attention to the water running over your skin and how it feels whilst taking some deep breaths – again, really bringing the awareness back into the body after being in your head.
The socialising events are so fun and a great way to meet new people, but it’s also super important to take time out for yourself. You only have a certain amount of energy, so make sure you take the time to refill your cup. Social events run most days, so it won’t matter if you miss one.
Never feel bad for taking yourself off for a snack, coffee, water or some quiet time. It’s
Industry events are mentally taxing and a constant exchange of energy. When we are stuck in the headspace, that’s what can cause overwhelm, so I would definitely recommend some practices to bring you back to your body as much as possible. Things like making sure you step outside between classes to get some fresh air. Take some big, deep breaths and feel the cool air on your skin, it will help bring the awareness back to the body instead of being all swirled up in
Listen to your body and your needs, and take care of them! If your body is tired, don’t go out that evening. No one will judge you and no one will think any less of you! You need to do what’s best for you.
All my love, the Piercing Piskie
Have a question of your own? s end it via tH e Piercing Piskie’s dedicated Page at tH e-s H ar P -end-co.uk
Setting boundaries is one of the biggest steps you can take towards easing burnout, and here Nikki L L oyd-Proctor of Bold and Gold Piercing Art in Edinburgh shares her experience of doing just that
Have you ever said yes to something, and then when the time comes to do that thing, you’ve wished you had said no? This might be a sign that you need to work on your boundaries.
I have some experience on implementing boundaries in my life and am here to share a few of my tools that might help those of you reading who want to strengthen your boundaries too.
In short, becoming selfemployed in 2008 and hyperfocusing on being the best piercer I could be meant I didn’t really leave much time in my life for anything else.
The saying that echoed around me was ‘it’s not a job, it’s a lifestyle’. I bought into hustle culture, and a mindset that I had to be ‘on’ all the time, which negatively affected my wellbeing and for years I had no life/work boundaries.
There is so much to cover when it comes to boundaries, but I’m focusing specifically on work/home balance and some important scenarios to consider in the studio.
Let’s start with boundaries for home...
How often are you on your phone or computer checking DMs and emails, editing photos and creating content etc? Are you doing these
things at home, in between the ad breaks of your favourite TV series, or sneaking a peek at the inbox while the kettle boils?
Personally I set up some simple boundaries, firstly by thinking about what isn’t urgent: the DMs, the emails and social media in general. I realised that I had enabled the expectations of clients and potentials with my immediate responses, by being available 24/7.
Not doing any work-related admin outside of work hours was the first boundary, but I felt a huge resistance to this. I got the fear that if I stopped interacting or immediately responding, my business would become out of control, that I’d lose clients, and complaints about neglect or bad customer service would roll in.
To settle my discomfort, I learned to utilise the ‘auto response’ feature for both email and social media. I knew clients would get a heads up that nothing was going to be dealt with immediately and would have a plethora of information automatically sent to them, without me having to actually do anything.
Another great tool for releasing some of that fear and staying in control to a degree is a booking system. Moving away from DMs, phone calls and emails had freed up so much of my time to be with clients while I was in the studio, I figured that getting a system where we do even less admin would be a much more efficient and sustainable way to work.
The booking system we use is Setmore and what I love most is that there is an option to take a non-refundable booking fee upfront – this is also a great boundary when it comes to knowing the value of your services.
Another simple but helpful boundary that the Golden Girls and I have, here at Bold and Gold,
relates to messaging and calling about work, outside of work.
As the business owner, I’m aware there may be sensitive topics that the team individually need or want to discuss only with me. I have a boundary that includes no work text/WhatsApp messages, and instead I ask that they email me or approach me at work to ask when a good time would be for us to talk in person.
If something is actually urgent, there is absolute permission to call without warning, and this has only ever happened as the result of a flood and a mental health SOS.
We have a ‘piercing work’ group chat where we can drop reminders for ourselves or requests for one another; it’s ‘need-to-know’ updates only and is a great help to us all. We also have a ‘Golden Goddess’ chat, which is one for more fun, social stuff and photo shares etc.
Setting these boundaries means that when our phones go, it’s usually a fun friend chat and we don’t start to dread messages from each other.
If you don’t communicate your boundaries... you are enabling your own suffering!
A lot of things within the studio are going to be learn-as-you-go type stuff. It’s helpful to take note when something arises if you feel anger, frustration or resentment towards a client or a co-worker. You might ask yourself: have I discussed my personal preferences about a situation like this before? Is there a protocol I would like in place if something like this happens again?
This one will be different for us all. Think about the dynamics in the studio you are in. Who do you work with? Do you have front-of-house staff whom you have communicated with about your boundaries? Do you have a non-negotiable ‘do not disturb’ boundary for break times? Does this include ignoring the phone and not looking at emails while you eat? What about when an ‘emergency’ situation presents itself – do you feel like a pretzel after fitting everyone else’s needs in before your own?
The biggest upsets, in my experience, come with lack of communication. I mean, make your feelings as clear cut as a flawless diamond. If you don’t communicate your preferences and boundaries with your team or your clients, you are enabling your own suffering! Remember, no one can deny your feelings about a situation.
Many of us would reluctantly say ‘yes’, because with a ‘no’ we might fear conflict and want to avoid guilt. Know that boundaries can be gentle – they don’t have to be as harsh as ‘yes’ or ‘no’ – and if expressed clearly you might gain new respect and walk away feeling great about having stuck up for your inner worth.
There are numerous examples I could bring up here, but I’m going to share a select few scenarios and boundary examples. Bold and Gold Piercing Art is a private, by-appointment-only space, so you may need to rework some statements for walk-in spaces.
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Scenario 1
- “I will see this client today but I want us to sit down and discuss my boundaries about situations like this occurring in future, where you will ask me first before agreeing to something on my behalf.”
Scenario 2
The door goes. You know your next client isn’t due for another 15 minutes and you are enjoying a wee rest break. The person ‘just wants to ask a question’ (and we all know this usually leads to a 10-minute interrogation!).
Boundary examples
- Ignore the door.
- “I have some other priorities to take care of and can’t fit you in at the moment. (Note: Remember that YOU are a priority). If you would like to come back, you can make an appointment via …”
It’s five minutes until your shift ends, you’re with your last client, and your front-of-house comes to tell you that someone just phoned about a lost a bead. Front-of-house has told them you’ll be able to squeeze them in as an ‘emergency’. They’re on their way and will arrive in five minutes. (Note: You don’t have plans after work but you are not happy to work later than scheduled.)
Boundary examples
- “I’m afraid I’m not going to be able to do that today. I will be finishing after this client.” (Note: You do not need to expand or go into detail of your whys at this time.)
- “We are an appointment-only studio – I’m afraid you will have to make an appointment using the booking system, which you can visit via…”
Scenario 3
A client shows up for a jewellery purchase/fitting appointment and pulls out a piece they bought from an out-of-town studio that recommended you. Your terms of service state you won’t work with any outsourced jewellery.
Boundary examples
- “I’m afraid our terms, which were accepted by you upon booking, state we don’t work with any jewellery sourced from outside our studio.”
- “I can’t fit this for you, but I can help explain how you can do this yourself, or suggest other studios nearby who may have a different policy.”
- “We only work with our own jewellery, which I can help you to choose from if that is something you’re interested in.”
So, that’s my take and tools for boundaries. If anyone wants a nosey at our ‘auto response’, give us a wee ‘hello’ email to boldandgoldpiercingart@gmail.com. I’d also love to hear what boundaries you have in place so we can all learn from each other.
I’ve been a piercer since August 2019, after completing my A-Levels in business and art. At that time, I was at a crossroads as to what I should do next – either an art degree or start my own business. But after a lot of research into art degrees, I felt this wasn’t what I was looking for. I already had an interest in piercing and thought I should explore this industry more.
I wasn’t sure whether I would enjoy it, but from day one I was hooked.
One of the things I am most proud of is starting my own body piercing business from the ground up at the age of 20. With the help of my inspirational mother, I built a studio in her hair and beauty salon and I’ve never looked back.
Growing up, there was so much pressure to have an idea of what you wanted to do in life. I never knew what I wanted to do, and I didn’t enjoy schooI. I was bullied in primary and secondary school, leading to me changing schools in year nine, which
doing something that I enjoy and love, which is amazing and I’m very proud of my achievements. I’ve learnt so much about myself; I am compassionate, empathetic and very patient.
Because of that I found a confidence and belief in myself, and I have a much more positive outlook on life. I’m more aware that things do come in time, with patience and hard work. I approach life much more freely and try not to be too hard on myself. This is never more important than when you are running your own business, as it’s really easy to over think the negative things.
was very challenging. Piercing has given me my reason and my happy place. I feel I’ve become successful in my own right
The main thing I would like other piercers to take from this is to stay positive. Happiness won’t be constant – there will always be hard days, but there will be many more brilliant, rewarding days. So, continue to learn, research and above all, enjoy yourself!
@thepiercing_pixie
For IsOB elle Talle TT-sm IT h of The Piercing Pixie in Tutshill, Chepstow, piercing has been the key to unlocking self-belief and inner strength
