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WELCOME TO
The sun’s out, the daffs are out, and that can only mean one thing: it’s time to welcome you to the Apr/May issue of The Sharp End!
As I enjoy the blue skies and new growth, I’m reflecting on my time at the recent Wee Scottish Piercing Expo in Edinburgh. Every class delivered there was personal, but some really bared the speaker’s soul: heartfelt, honest, warts and all. In such a safe space as the Expo, facilitated by event organiser Nikki Lloyd-Proctor, they felt able to share themselves with us all so openly.
Not only is it both reassuring and inspirational to hear these stories (a refreshing change to life viewed through the social media lens), they also remind us to be more forgiving, of ourselves and others, and to be more humble. We’re human beings. We make mistakes. We have vulnerabilities. We’re not perfect. I think it’s so important to acknowledge that at all times as we travel along our life – and career – paths.
This isn’t to say we can’t hope to be recognised and respected for our achievements, however; when we’ve
bettered ourselves, overcome adversity, done good work, contributed to our communities, and for our hard-earned years of experience. Likewise, we should respect others in turn for their accomplishments and life journeys – as the rapturous applause and supportive conversations that followed those Wee Expo classes demonstrated!
That’s actually a perfect segue into this issue of The Sharp End, which is a bit of a star-studded special edition. We’re treating you to not one, but two exclusive interviews with truly foundational members of the piercing industry: Patrick McCarthy and Drew Ward. Turn to pages 14 and 32 respectively to hear their stories, and to learn about their invaluable contributions to our community.
All best wishes,
Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief
Editor-in-chief Louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart To find out how to advertise in The Sharp End , please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Find us at the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us @thesharpend_magazine The Sharp End Magazine Cover image Drew Ward/Body Piercing Archive
OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS
How an unceremonious eviction from corporate America birthed a piercing industry pioneer
06 NEWS AND VIEWS
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
12 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place across the world in the coming months
20 BEAUTY IN SIMPLICITY
A celebration of those understated jewellery designs that make their own impact through use of texture, shape, colour and shine
28 CRITICAL THINKING
With so much information now available to the industry, critical analysis has never been so important, says UKAPP President Becky Crossan
31 MAKING DREAMS COME TRUE
Norvoch explains how it works with customers to bring their jewellery visions to life – from individual pieces to entire collections!
32 A CERTAIN FOCUS
Devin Ruiz-Altamura spends some time with Drew Ward, photographer and central figure in the Gauntlet story (contains images of genital piercings)
41 TIME FOR TECHNIQUE
Through this focus on counterbalancing, Lola Slider tackles the growing issue of ornamental attachments being used inappropriately in fresh body piercings
46 BEYOND COMPLIANCE
Pablo Perelmuter tells the story behind the APP Body Jewelry Verification Program and how it’s reshaping the future of the industry
50 END-NOTE INSPO
Flávio Lélis, currently of REB3L Studios in Aberdeen, shares the wealth of life experience that piercing – and in particular, guesting – has brought him
PINECONE STUDIO OPENS ITS DOORS
March saw the big reveal of a brand-new piercing and tattoo business in Leith, Edinburgh.
Pinecone Studio is the result of months of hard work by co-owners Hazel (aka Botanical Piercer) and Lauren (aka Preston Ink) in refining the space, decorating and creating a top-notch online booking platform.
“We’ve also created a bright and cosy reception area, which was important to us as we both value one-to-one interactions with our clients, and we are so happy to have a space to do that in,” says Hazel.
Another key aim for the duo was to change a narrative that has become so ingrained in body art: “We wanted to switch up how the industry views piercers and tattoo artists working together, by creating an equal and cohesive space where both crafts are respected and valued equally.
“We are mega excited for our future here and can’t wait to welcome clients from all over the world!” Hazel enthuses.
@pineconestudio.leith
SOUTHAMPTON PIERCER IS DOUBLE AWARDS FINALIST
Emma Bremner, body piercer and co-owner of Alien8 Tattoo and Piercing Studio in Southampton, is celebrating success as a UK top 10 finalist in the SOS Beauty Awards 2025, in the Body Artist of the Year and Community Champion categories.
“I’m extremely proud of this achievement and recognition of the hard work and dedication I have contributed to the body piercing industry over the last six years,” Emma says. “Striving to improve standards within the industry is a priority for me, and I am passionate about providing a space
that is fully inclusive.”
Earlier this year, the studio held a charity event that drew huge support from the local community, with more than 60 piercings and 48 tattoos carried out, plus a raffle and cake sale. A whopping £3,500 was raised in all, which was split between two charities: £2,500 for the Teenage Cancer Trust and £1,000 for Sophie’s Legacy.
“None of this could be possible without the continued support of my husband Shaun, who co-owns the studio with me, and all our amazing clients,” Emma adds.
@alien8customtattoos
STRUT YOUR STUFF
“I’m passionate about finding a perfect match when it comes to ear curation. The right piece doesn’t just fill space – it elevates the anatomy. That’s the difference between placing jewellery and designing a wearable work of art.”
Marta Dudzik @marta.piercings
Got your angles bang on? Completed a winning curation? Celebrating your first septum? Finally used that piece you’d been salivating over? Send a photo (at full, original size), name and Instagram handle to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk and you could feature in an upcoming edition of the magazine!
APP
VP FEATURES AT LUXE PIERCING EVENT
Cale Belford, APP Vice President and owner of Oleander Piercing, has recently featured as a guest piercer at renowned wellness destination, The Aqua Spa Float Center & Wellness Boutique (AQS), in Oswego, NY, US. The two-day Luxe Piercing Event took place on 18 and 19 March in honour of International Women’s History Month.
Clients enjoyed private consultations with Cale (pictured with Tammy Wilkinson, AQS co-owner) and created custom piercing curations with LeRoi Fine Jewellery. “My visit was wonderful. Serene
describes the whole experience; Cale was so excited to work with me developing my idea into reality. Everyone at Aqua Spa is genuinely interested in helping you and making sure you are satisfied with your whole experience. Thinking I might get another piercing when this one heals (which is going very well!),” said one client, Lori C. Part of a wider series of guest piercing events at AQS, the first featured Ruben Triguero from France, and four more are scheduled for the year.
@aquaspafloatcenter
@leroifinejewellery @miss_cale
PIERCER PETS
In memoriam of a faithful companion to Olly Todd of Factotum Body Modification, Norwich
Name: Bronson (aka Monster)
Best pals for: 1 2 years
Fave treat: Everyone else’s food
Best quality: He was a true gentle giant
Happiest place: Asleep on me!
If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
HEY!
NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
This sterile fenestrated drape is the brainchild of Damiano Di Nunno of Midas Piercing Boutique, who saw a need… and fulfilled it!
“At the 2024 UKAPP Conference, I attended Brian Skellie’s class on aseptic piercings and realised that
REGISTRATION
OPENS FOR 10TH UKAPP CONFERENCE
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, and to mark this impressive milestone, its 2025 conference promises to be a knock-out edition!
Taking place from 28 to 30 September at the Albert Hall in Nottingham, attendees can expect a jam-packed vendor floor, a raffle and an inspirational
simply layering gauze wasn’t enough. So, this product was born from the need for safer practices,” he explains.
Made from high-quality TNT (non-woven fabric) material, it’s pre-sterilised and pre-cut (15x15cm). It also features a hypoallergenic adhesive sticker. “I love how it creates a true barrier against crosscontamination – and the sticker keeps it securely in place!” Damiano adds.
“Bringing it to the UK has been an honour, and I’m thrilled by the positive response from the piercing community.”
fresha.com/store/midaspiercing-boutique-store-b12fvl6k
HEADS UP
For those based in Wales (or just interested!), the full set of six guidance documents to support the Special Procedures Licensing Scheme in Wales is now available to access in English and Welsh at gov.wales/health-socialcare-strategy
OVER TO YOU
class lineup featuring returning favourites and brand-new speakers from across the world.
The first big reveal is APP President Becky Dill, co-owner of Lemonade Piercing in California, US, who’ll be teaching three classes: Piercing the Nipple: Introduction and Technique, Genital Piercing: Consultation and Communication, and Piercing the Vulva: VCH Edition. Register now at ukapp.org.uk/ conference and start getting excited as more announcements follow on the UKAPP’s socials – there’ll also be a special sneak preview in the next issue of The Sharp End!
@safepiercing_uk
As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So if, for example, your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.
There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!
Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).
FOR YOUR DIARY
UK
SOUTH SEMINARS
21 June University of Winchester @southseminars
UKAPP CONFERENCE 2025 28-30 September
Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk
GLOBAL
FR.A.P.P.E 2025 16-18 May
Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_
CONFERÊNCIA ANUAL APPBR 23-25 May
São Paulo, Brazil @appbr.oficial
APP ANNUAL CONFERENCE AND EXPO 22-27 June
Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org
III CONGRESO DE CEP 10-13 July Valencia, Spain @ceperforadores
BELGIAN PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS SEMINAR 20-21 July The Egg, Brussels @belgian.p.p.s
CONGRESO INTERNACIONAL DE PERFORADORES PROFESIONALES PCP 24-26 July
Medellin, Colombia @pcpcol
BMXNET 14-17 August
Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org
GEP CONGRESS
31 August-4 September
São Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing
PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS POLAND CONFERENCE 12-14 September
Gdańsk, Poland @professionalpiercerspoland
ANTWERP SUSCON 19-21 September
Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be
APA RITORNO ALLE ORIGINI 5-7 October
Pescara, Italy @ritornoalleorigini.apa
If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk 1
JPPA 2025 ASIAN PIERCERS MEETUP 14-16 October
Tokyo, Japan @safepiercingjapan
APP BENELUX CONFERENCE 20-22 October
Veldhoven, The Netherlands @appbenelux
AUPP ANNUAL PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS CONFERENCE 20-22 October
Sydney, Australia
24 October
Auckland, New Zealand @safepiercing_aupp
CONGRESO INTERNACIONAL DE PERFORADORES PROFESIONALES LBP 3-6 November
Guanajuato, Mexico @lbpasociacion
OVER TO YOU
“I pierced in that shop for about three years, until the owner realised how much money I was making and wanted to get a cut of my piercing fee, which at that point was $20 or more depending on the piercing – and I was doing an average of 25 to 30 piercings a day. So, I moved four buildings down and started Piercology, which ended up being – and still is – one of the busiest studios in the United States. On an average day, we’d do between 90 and 100 piercings back then!”
THE EARLY DAYS
By his own admission, Patrick’s first studio space somewhat resembled a dungeon. “It was in a basement, below the t-shirt shop. It didn’t even have brick walls – it had old cement walls. It had one little counter, two piercing rooms and a sterilising room. I’m thinking back to it and yeah, it literally looked like an old dungeon!” he laughs.
“The crazy thing is, I actually started Piercology on less than $5,000. I bought a used autoclave, and of course back then we didn’t have all the gold jewellery that exists today.”
But the business continued to grow. First it expanded onto a third floor in the same rented premises, then Patrick bought a building in the commercial district where he could have piercing upstairs and a café below. “The café was called The Waiting Room,” he recalls. “It had computers so people could get on the internet, and it lasted, I
don’t know, seven or eight years.
“We’d give piercing clients little pagers that had about a half-mile radius so they could roam around the area or sit in The Waiting Room, and the pager would beep when it was time for them to come get pierced.
“We had four piercers at that time, plus three or four counter staff. Due to the volume of clients, our piercers just pierced – they didn’t have time to help choose jewellery. So, our counter staff were jewellery experts, and they’d sterilise everything and put it on clipboards, so when piercers came out of their room, they’d just pick up another clipboard and get started.
“Doing 25 to 30 piercings a day like that – you really became a good piercer! And you learned to go fast. I love hearing about people now who schedule 45 minutes for a
piercing – I’m like, oh my god, I don’t think I could stretch it out to take more than 10 minutes!” he laughs.
GOING PRESIDENTIAL
One of the other key things that happened in this time, and contributed to the growth of Piercology, was the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) – and Patrick’s involvement in it. First founded in 1994 with an appointed board, it was in 1999 that Patrick became the first elected president of the international non-profit organisation we all know today. But it had by no means been an ambition for him. “I didn’t actually want to be president, I just wanted to sit on the board and be part of it!” he admits.
“Now, when you run for a position, you’re just on the board, and then the board chooses who goes into what position. Back then it didn’t
come up with a needle that was sharper than all the others, so we honed down the needles and tested them using tolerance machines until we could physically prove they were sharper than anything else,” Pat adds.
Stiletto officially began trading in February 2020. It weathered the Covid storm that was imminently to arrive and has since gained distributors in more than 12 countries including the UK, Brazil, Peru, Australia, Poland and Sweden, recently holding its first-ever distributor meeting in Sri Lanka. The company has also now acquired a sprawling facility in Ohio, enabling it to begin production locally as well as at its factory in China.
“I’ll make a prediction: disposable is the way the industry is going to go,” says Pat, “and in our next round of products we’ve been able to solve some perennial problems with going disposable, such as how to handle contaminated jewellery, for example when a client has had to take their jewellery out for an MRI.
“We’re also introducing biodegradable plastic to our product lines – verified by an independent lab in Switzerland to biodegrade in 180 days –and really pushing ahead with new technologies in sterilisation,” he adds.
“The only constant in life is change, and I think the industry is going to change a super lot in the next three to four years.”
EMBRACING CHANGE
And so it is that this career, which was essentially born out of circumstance, has taken Pat from small business owner to industry ambassador, educator and product designer, and continues to enrich his life with all kinds of mind-blowing experiences like scuba diving in the Great Barrier Reef and suspending in Scotland.
“I’ve never been one to choose the limelight – that’s just not me – but it still amazes me that, to this day, I’ll have people at conventions across the world come up and ask, ‘Are you Pat McCarthy?’ It’s like, wow, how did they even know? Maybe it’s because I’m one of the few people who’s over 60 at a lot of these events!” he laughs.
Having sold Piercology to focus on Stiletto, Pat does still pierce on rare occasions, “but my fingers and eyes don’t work
as well as they did – a lot of us who started back in those days aren’t getting any younger!” he admits.
Reflecting on the journey travelled, those eyes start to tear up a little. “I just can’t express how much this industry has made my life fulfilling. I think a lot of piercers would agree with me that it’s the little unexpected things, when you really help to change someone’s life, that allow you to be a better person.
“I could have, and probably still would have, been part of corporate America, making a great living but not really helping people – nor myself. I am who I am, and everyone is who they are. Live the life you wanna live,” he urges. “This industry allows you to be who you want to be and do anything you want to do. And I truly feel that.”
Beautyin
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SATPURA, 14CT YELLOW GOLD
UPTOWN PUNK, 14CT WHITE GOLD
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SWOON,
1. FOLDED HEART, 14CT GOLD, PERFECT FOR NUMEROUS PIERCINGS
2. SOSEH, 14CT GOLD WITH MIRROR-POLISHED FINISH ADORNED WITH A BEADED DESIGN
3. GOLDEN KNOT, 14CT GOLD WITH INTRICATE DETAIL AND TEXTURE
4. ANIK, 14CT GOLD WITH A MULTI-DIRECTIONAL TEXTURE 5. POLYGON SEAMLESS RING, GEOMETRIC TEXTURED 14CT GOLD 6. LAUREN SEAMLESS RING, 14CT GOLD, SUITABLE FOR STACKING OR WEARING ALONE ALL PIECES ALSO AVAILABLE IN 18CT GOLD
1. FIXED PRONG RINGS IN 14CT YELLOW GOLD WITH LAB-CREATED ‘ENHANCED COLOUR’ PINK DIAMONDS
2. GEOMETRIC COLLECTION ©™ SQUARE, CIRCLE, TRIANGLE, 18CT YELLOW, PALLADIUM WHITE AND ROSE GOLD 3. 6 GAUGE STRAIGHT BARBELLS, HIGH-POLISH TITANIUM AND ‘OIL SLICK’ ANODISED 4. 8 GAUGE ‘RAINBOW’ ANODISED CAPTIVE RING AND HIGH-POLISH STRAIGHT BARBELL
OM MEN T
C
CRITICAL THINKING
With so much information now available to the industry, critical analysis has never been so important, as UKAPP President BECKY CROSSAN explains
In this day and age, there is more information available to piercers than ever before, in the form of conferences, classes, printed material and online forums. However, with this wealth of information, it’s crucial that we think critically about what we encounter.
Have you ever felt frustrated when you’ve seen somebody post a response in a forum and you know categorically that this is an opinion that has snowballed to be repeated in comment section after comment section as gospel truth? So many myths get repeated as facts, and in perpetuating that we’re doing a disservice to ourselves and our clients.
Make no mistake though, most of us will have perpetuated something like this at some stage of our careers; not with malice, but simply due to not thinking critically about what we’ve read. Although conferences and events will have an element of quality control for the classes taught, it’s important to recognise which aspects of the presentation are fact and which parts are the instructor’s personal opinion. Whilst it would be incorrect to disagree with aspects of a class that contain scientific fact, it’s perfectly ok to have a difference of opinion to the speaker.
That’s not to say that you should be vocal in your disagreement. Indeed, if you do want to disagree, we would always recommend phrasing your disagreement as a question at the end of the class. So, for example, instead of framing the thought as ‘I disagree with what you said about X,’ try ‘What led to your
ABOUT THE UKAPP
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.
The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards and health and safety criteria, such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens. The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.
For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk
thoughts about X? Have you considered Y?’ And be ready for the response that your ideas have, in fact, already been considered!
Many of us, though, sit quietly in classes without asking questions and tend to read information in forums without necessarily engaging in the discussion. So, it’s important to remember that we should filter the information we engage with for facts and opinions, and think critically about what we agree or disagree with. At the same time, it’s always important to remain open to changing information, to seek out new ideas, and to shift your opinion as things change.
One of the challenges of our industry is that there often haven’t been scientific studies that are solely focused on piercing. This is a big part of why so many aspects of the early days of our industry involved trial and error and experimentation. We often have to find the closest studies we can to the work that we do, and sometimes what we consider to be best practice changes over time. This means that we have often had a journey of altering our opinions and ideas many times throughout our careers.
So, next time you’re sitting in a class or reading an internet forum, consider the following: is this fact or opinion? Do I agree or disagree? Am I able to explain that agreement/disagreement to myself? Am I open to changing my opinion if the information I have changes? Thinking more critically will benefit the industry as a whole by allowing us to learn, grow and continue to offer the best for our clients.
STANDOUT FROMTHE CROWD!
The new RSPH Level 2 Award in Infection Prevention and Control for Special Procedures Practitioners is not just for those in Wales!
HOODIES ONLINE NOW
VISIT ONLINE: SHOPGN.CO SOCIAL: @GLORIOUSNIGHTMARE
NORVOCH explains how it works with customers to bring their jewellery visions to life – from individual pieces to entire collections!
Piercings are all about expressing individuality – both for ourselves as piercers and for our clients – and the main way we all achieve this is through our choice of jewellery. So, how does it feel to know that you can fully embrace your creativity and personality by creating your very own jewellery designs?
As a brand that places huge emphasis on individual style, as well as strong working relationships, creating custom and customisable jewellery comes naturally to Norvoch. The skilled team is able to bring customers’ visions to life by working closely with them on one-off pieces or full collections.
One such collection is ‘Barbie’s Rodeo’, which was envisioned and brought to life in collaboration with Pro Team member Barbie Thiemann from The Piercing Haus in Australia.
MAKING DREAMS COME TRUE
Drawing on western themes, the collection features a ‘Cowgirl Boot’, ‘Cowgirl Hat’, ‘Cactus’, ‘Sheriff’s Badge’ and ‘Buckaroo Skull’, available as ends and charms. Meanwhile, ‘Southern Belle’ features an elaborate scrollwork setting, resembling a mirror frame, and comes in a choice of stones.
“I wanted to capture my love of western themes,” said Barbie in an eagerly anticipated unboxing reel on Instagram (@thepiercinghaus). “These designs literally came from me drawing in my sketchbook – Norvoch and I went from designing one piece to a whole collection!”
Each step of the custom jewellery creation process is carried
out in-house at Norvoch’s production facility in Los Angeles, US. The expert team carefully sketches out the jewellery designs, based on each customer’s vision. Then, once the design is approved by the customer, manufacturing begins!
“At Norvoch, we love working with our customers to make their dreams come true, so if you have an idea, send us an email at info@norvoch.com and we can get started on bringing your vision to life,” the brand enthuses.
“We invite and encourage you to be different!”
@norvoch norvoch.com
beginning – so when Jim adopted me, he was my father, boss and boy.
Jim trained me in body piercing, which I loved to do, and was certainly just as exacting with me as with anyone else he trained.
I didn’t know that Jim had trained you in piercing. Did you work as a piercer at any of the Gauntlet locations?
I did most of my piercings in the San Francisco Gauntlet location. Jim’s desk, mine and another for an administrative assistant were also in the shop. I split my time between covering the front counter and doing piercings, with office tasks
assigned to me by Jim. Once we rented separate office space, and travelled to other Gauntlet locations, I did fewer piercings and worked more closely with Jim to help run the business.
When did your interest in photography begin? And for all of the film photography enthusiasts out there, what is your preferred or favourite camera?
At around age 12, my godfather gave me a camera and taught me the basics. I believe it was an old Leica, late 1940s vintage. Early on I took only black-and-white photos, mostly due to film and processing costs – my family was quite poor.
In 1968, I received a scholarship to study in Krakow, Poland. Whilst there, I lost my Kodak Instamatic camera and ended up buying an East German Praktica SLR, and took hundreds of photos of life behind the Iron Curtain.
I received a Cable Car Award for Photo Art having presented a black-and-white image of a bodybuilder’s torso, holding handcuffs.
I was the official photographer for the Mr. Drummer Contest in 1988,
TIME FOR TECHNIQUE:
COUNTERB LANCING
International speaker and former UKAPP President LOLA SLIDER confronts a growing issue within the industry: inappropriate usage of ornamental attachments in fresh body piercings
PROPERLY COUNTERBALANCING ATTACHMENTS IS A CRUCIAL PART OF THE PIERCING PROCESS
Right now, two things are happening at once: more elaborate, creative jewellery designs are hitting jewellery cabinets up and down the UK every year, and meanwhile, more piercers are coming into the industry without developing a fundamental understanding of jewellery size theory.
That’s not to suggest that all of the sizing errors occurring in the modern piercing market are the responsibility of less-experienced piercers; this is a problem that permeates age and experience barriers. It has to be said that the skill of properly sizing and counterbalancing a piercing has taken a backseat to sales in recent years, with many members of our community learning to sell better but not smarter. If just one generation of mentors stops passing on this crucial information, then a decade from now it could be lost.
A benchmark of a good piercing is, in my opinion, something that’s likely to heal. Not a controversial opinion, I hope! That means you can look at it honestly and say to yourself: “This person has a reasonable chance of living with this piece. It’ll be fairly static, it’s unlikely to snag on things and the average person should be able to clean this quite well.” If we’re failing to meet that standard then we’re no better than piercers using externally threaded jewellery, just with a much higher price tag, because ultimately it leaves clients walking out of the door with something unfit for purpose.
Let’s get technical… In the beginning there was the humble 3mm ball, often paired up with its good friend the 1.2x8mm labret backing. What do these two friends have in common? They weigh a similar amount. So, a helix piercing (for example) wearing this size of
jewellery will be reasonably well counterbalanced, neither drooping forwards nor backwards. And, once downsized to a 1.2x6mm or 1.2x5mm labret backing, the piercing will be effectively immobilised, lightly sandwiching the tissue. Happy days ensue!
Now add into the mix a solid gold attachment that weighs 13 times more than the backing, and that helix piercing will be looking down at the ground so fast you’ll think it’s dropped a fiver.
This might sound like an exaggeration, but with my tiny set of scales (because of course I bought a tiny set of scales) I did take the time to measure a broad selection of items to get a feel for just how great these disparities have become, and, indeed, at the higher end, some pieces were up to 13 times heavier. This is due partly to elaborate design and partly to the fact that gold is significantly heavier than titanium.
The reverse is also true: taking a 1.5mm or even a 2mm attachment and placing it on a 1.2mm labret with a 4mm backing will leave the piercing so little surface anchoring that embedding at the front of a fresh piercing isn’t just possible, it’s probable.
As someone who now works with a lot of threadless jewellery, another factor to consider is that just because threadless attachments are universal in their closure style doesn’t mean that a 1x6mm labret with a 3mm back is going to work for all attachment designs.
Certain larger pieces (like the item weighing in at 13 times the weight of a 1.2x8 labret) would absolutely be inappropriate. A piece of this size should be placed on a 1.6mm-thick labret for greater stability at the weld point, to help prevent breakages. It should also have a 5mm back plate for better weight distribution, not a 4mm or 3mm one. Suppliers make
these variations for good reason and if we’re investing thousands of pounds in gold attachments, we should be prepared to carry a fully inclusive range of sizes to place them on.
Did you know, for example, that a threadless pin is about 0.5mm thick? So, when it’s inserted into a 1.2mm labret, the wall surrounding that pin is 0.35mm thick. However, when you insert a threadless pin into a 1.6mm labret, the wall surrounding that pin is 0.55mm thick. Proportionately, this is a significant jump.
The thicker the wall surrounding the pin is, the greater support there is at the weld point where the pin meets the attachment. That means the attachment is less likely to become bent and the weld point is less likely to become weakened or snap as a result of ordinary wear and tear. So, keeping these things at the forefront of your mind not only
helps your client, but it helps prevent you from processing avoidable breakages.
This does, of course, mean that sometimes a client may need to stretch a piercing to wear a certain piece, or have a different backing for that piece. Traditionally, this wouldn’t be too unusual, but in recent years it’s become more common for clients to think ‘my post is threadless, therefore every threadless piece will work on it perfectly’ – and that’s kind of on us, because we’re the ones telling them that.
Reality check
The reality is that our job is complex and pairing up a client with the perfect jewellery setup, whether it’s healed or fresh, isn’t just about the party in the front, it’s also about the business in the back.
As piercers, it’s important we don’t gloss over the cracks in our practice
BEYOND COMPLIANCE
Have you spotted the new APP Body Jewelry Verification Program shield logos appearing on manufacturers’ adverts and websites? PABLO PERELMUTER tells us the story behind the Program, and how it’s reshaping the future of body jewellery
The Body Jewelry Verification Program (BJVP) was created out of necessity. While reviewing jewellery compliance as part of the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) membership committee’s acceptance process, I saw firsthand the challenges in maintaining reliable records.
While some companies were already implementing exceptional quality control (QC) measures, it became evident that for decades a significant portion of the industry lacked formalised QC processes. This lack of oversight meant that jewellery materials and production methods varied significantly, leading to potential safety risks.
To address this, we developed a voluntary system where companies could submit documentation verifying the compliance of their materials. The BJVP not only validates these documents, but also tracks materials used in manufacturing and requires regular updates when suppliers or processes change. This ensures that both piercers and consumers remain informed, creating a more transparent and accountable industry.
In our world of body piercing, quality assurance has long been an afterthought,
often relying on trust rather than concrete verification. The BJVP was developed to change that, setting a new standard for quality control and traceability in our industry.
This article explores how evolving quality assurance measures can improve safety, consumer confidence and the future of body jewellery by ensuring standardised testing, transparent labelling and greater accountability across the industry.
PHASE 1: the foundation of our verification system Phase 1 of the Verification Program validates mostly mill certifications, ensuring that the materials used in body jewellery meet ASTM F2999 and F2923 standards. This is a crucial step, as these materials exist within the realm of implantable devices. Just as medical implants require rigorous documentation of material composition and traceability, body jewellery – worn in direct contact with the body for long periods of time – deserves the same level of verification. Without following our Phase 1 requirement, we could not guarantee that a manufacturer’s raw materials are suitable for long-term wear.
The manufacturing processes differ between companies. For companies using third-party manufacturing, we also require the main manufacturer to be ISO 9001 certified. This ensures that the manufacturer follows a structured quality management system, reducing the risk of inconsistencies in production and material sourcing. By requiring ISO 9001 compliance, we can better track changes in suppliers or manufacturing methods, ensuring that all materials continue to meet industry safety standards.
PHASE 2: a new QC gold standard!
Phase 2 introduces the use of in-house HD-XRF testing and third-party lab verification, ensuring that each batch of jewellery meets safety standards before reaching consumers. Just as every sterilisation cycle in a studio
should be validated, every jewellery batch should be tested for compliance.
This step prevents non-compliant materials and manufacturers’ unintentional contamination from slipping through the cracks and provides traceability, so manufacturers are accountable for their products. By implementing batch testing, we have the tools that can reduce inconsistencies and improve the overall reliability of jewellery sold in the industry.
THE LABELLING ISSUE: MORE TRANSPARENCY, MORE SAFETY
When purchasing a bottled drink, for example, we are provided with a wealth of information directly on the label. This includes a comprehensive list of ingredients, a clear expiration date and details about the manufacturer. This transparency empowers us as consumers to make informed decisions about what we
IMAGE: BVLA
put into our bodies, even if it means acknowledging and accepting certain risks associated with the product.
In stark contrast, body jewellery, which is in direct contact with bodily fluids and is often intended to be worn for extended periods, sometimes even years, is frequently sold with a concerning lack of essential information. It’s not uncommon for body jewellery to be presented in a simple, small, sealed bag with only a vague description of the item. This lack of transparency regarding the materials used, compliance with safety standards and manufacturing details is a significant issue that I believe needs to be addressed.
Both consumers and professional piercers have a fundamental right to know more about the products they are using and offering. Consumers deserve to be informed about the materials that will be
inserted into their bodies, ensuring they are not allergic or sensitive to any components. Jewellery that meets safety standards and is manufactured ethically and responsibly should be a priority to maintain the professionalism of the industry and consumer trust.
By establishing labelling requirements, we empower both professionals and consumers to make informed choices, ensuring safer and more accountable practices in the industry.
To learn more about our efforts and how you can ensure you’re using verified safe jewellery, please visit our website. We are actively collaborating with manufacturers worldwide to establish robust quality assurance as a standard practice within the piercing industry.
safejewelry.org
IMAGE: LEROI
I’ve been a piercer for nine years now. My career started when I had to step in and take control of a family tattoo and piercing studio in my hometown of Belo Horizonte, Brazil.
At the time I had no experience in the industry, but I managed to rebuild the shop financially and hire some new tattoo artists, alongside the piercer, Gui Cyhad. It was Gui who made me realise how much I love this industry! He was building his own studio at the time, with his wife Lexie (Ao Cubo), but offered to mentor me at my studio (Minas Tattoo) as well as being committed to his own. Of course, I said yes! My apprenticeship only made me hungry for more knowledge, so I went to the first edition of the GEP Congress in São Paulo in 2016. It blew my mind! The amazing classes meant I could learn more about piercing and our roots. I was so excited that I came back to my city motivated, having decided that piercing was the life for me.
One of the things I’m most proud of is being able to travel the world whilst doing what I love most. I get to have amazing experiences that I’ll remember for the rest of my life! Not to mention learning a lot along the way.
I feel very grateful to have visited many countries, attended many international conferences, and worked in high-standard studios
GO FORTH AND PROSPER!
for me in the UK and EU. I have met like-minded and passionate people who helped me a lot in my journey, and I will forever be thankful for them. I always learn something new with every guest spot, from new perspectives to new techniques. It’s a very rewarding experience!
I’m happy that I pursued my dream. I’m having the time of my life, learning from the most talented colleagues, developing my piercing skills, and visiting places that I’ve always dreamed about.
The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this is to believe in your dreams, no matter where you come from! Have determination and focus, and trust in the process.
Sometimes, it can be difficult – you may come up against some big obstacles – but keep moving forward with love and kindness, always treating people the way you would like to be treated. Don’t have an ego or try to be better than anyone else. Instead, make the effort to be the best version of yourself!
that I’ve always looked up to as big inspirations since I started my career.
Thanks to my travels, I am also lucky to have made a lot of connections that have opened doors
Support our community, share knowledge where you can, attend conferences, and let’s all try to grow together as professionals and human beings.
@flaviolelispiercer
Currently working at REB3L Studios in Aberdeen, FLÁVIO LÉLIS shares the wealth of life experience that piercing – and in particular, guesting – has brought him
