The Sharp End - Oct/Nov 2024

THE

MAGAZINE

Best practice Using sterile gloves

FOR

PIERCING

PROFESSIONALS > Oct/NOv 2024

talent show Piercer side hUstles

autumn curations celebrating the season

The Art of Adornment

TISHWHOLESALE.COM

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So, here we are, hurtling towards the end of the year already!

Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief

Editor-in-chief louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart to find out how to advertise in The Sharp End, please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk The Sharp End Magazine @thesharpend_magazine Find us the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us Cover image by Kayleigh Butcher Photography Printed by Page Bros, Norwich

the editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement they express or advice they give in this publication. the opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the editor or publishers. All content including the presentation thereof in this magazine is the property of the editor and protected by international copyright laws. You may not copy, reproduce, distribute, transmit, modify, create derivative works, or in any other way exploit any part of copyrighted material without prior written permission from the editor. ©2024 Louise Hoffman

Editor’s lEttEr

All best wishes,

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it’s been a busy one, with the calendar of industry events ever expanding – and many of you managing to make a cameo at several of them, all across the world! the 2025 line-up is already looking strong (page 14), so why not get those trips planned for next year. i had a fantastic time at the UKAPP Conference in september. it was truly heartwarming to meet so many readers in person and hear your fabulous feedback. i also managed to attend the fascinating live Q&A with BVlA founder Nick Martin, and a restorative sound bath hosted by Jess sellars (with reiki support from Nikki lloyd-Proctor!).

Jess is working wonders through her yoga and wellness retreats, circles and workshops – as well as this year’s article series in The Sharp End, which concludes this time with a look at how you can take yoga principles ‘off the mat’ and into everyday life as a piercer (page 46). the liminal seasons of autumn and spring are perfect for focusing on

wellbeing. Here in the northern hemisphere, the leaves are falling, the nights are drawing in and we can retreat inside to rest and recuperate (pumpkin lattes optional!). Plus, the natural world around us has transformed into a riot of red, amber and gold – which we’re fully embracing in our jewellery showcase for this issue (page 20).

With another shortlisting in the British society of Magazine Editors Awards this year (winner to be revealed at the end of November!) and a now-global audience, The Sharp End is going from strength to strength – thanks to the support of our superstar advertisers and every single one of you reading the magazine right now. thank you – so much.

We’ll be back in 2025 with the Feb/ Mar issue… and big plans!

IMAGE: JAMiE BoltoN @A.sHort.iNtErlUdE

Welcome to

IMAGE: EYETRONIC-stock.adobe.com IMAGE: 4FRAME GROUP-stock.adobe.com

Inside this issue

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From fire-eating an burlesque performin content and brand marketing, four pier reveal their alter-eg

Side hustlers From fire-eating and burlesque performing to content and brand marketing, four piercers reveal their alter-egos!

06 _ News and views All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community 14 _ Dates for your diary Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months

20 _ AUTUMN MAGIC Warm yourself up with these seasonal jewellery curations, celebrating the rich colours and classic symbols of autumn

42 _ Made to measure Get up close to some of the tools and jewellery that were handmade and used

by Fakir Musafar, in this archive feature by Nash Bryant 46 _ Taking yoga off the mat Concluding this year’s wellbeing series, Jess Sellars explains how yoga teachings can be applied to everyday life as a piercer 50 _ End-note inspo Aldo Ferrazza of Brazen Body Piercings in Llandudno, Wales, shows us what can be achieved if we push our boundaries

CONTENTS

17 _ LEGAL UPDATE APP Medical Director Pablo Perelmuter alerts us to upcoming new EU product safety regulations affecting body piercing jewellery

37 _ Time for technique Olly Todd provides a step-by-step guide to using sterile gloves – a key component in maintaining a safe environment for both client and piercer

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-eating and e performing to nd brand g, four piercers eir alter-egos!

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28 _ All change!

Following the end of another term for the UKAPP board, Becky Crossan reveals who is at the helm for the next three years

All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community

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News

ImaGES: LUCaS SIGNORETTI @LUCaSSIGNORETTI

GEP 2024: in rEviEw

This year, the GEP International Congress for Professional Piercers reached new heights!

Taking place on Boracéia beach, São Paulo, it was attended by 190 piercers from across the world.

Cléo Dubois visited Brazil for the first time and gifted attendees with a lecture about her extraordinary life journey with Fakir Musafar, as well as leading the ‘Flesh and spirit Ritual’ along with Cody Vaughn, Fakir Intensives Instructor, during which many participants reported feeling the presence of Fakir.

Paying further homage to Fakir, the Cine Legado (Legacy Cinema) showed a 20-minute excerpt from the documentary A Body To Live In, which tells the story of Fakir Musafar’s life. The film’s director, Angelo Madsen, gave this part of the film exclusively to be shown at GeP. Other highlights included a new goldsmithing workshop, a body suspension performance by Dani Tier, and the event’s largest expo yet. Plus, practical classes taking place in a safe procedure room (authorised by the local Health surveillance Agency) were broadcast simultaneously on the

conference room’s LeD screen. speakers Cody Vaughn, Luis Garcia, Jesus Cabanas (Sala) and Cristiano Aielli masterfully demonstrated their piercing techniques live, whilst Vivi Madero, Kenneth Crespo and Colin O led dynamic classes and Paul King told the story of ethel and william Granger.

“The seventh edition of GeP made history because it was marked by the energy of love, respect and learning, felt and shared by everyone,” say the organisers. Bring on GEP 2025! @gepsafepiercing

HLPiercings unveiLs new studio Karen Parke of HLPiercings in Scarborough has recently celebrated a successful relocation to the bustling Falsgrave area of the town, enabling her to rebrand, alter colour schemes and benefit from a private entrance to the studio, which is based within a barber’s.

The move also marks the start of Karen’s third year as a piercer, beginning her piercing journey working for Bryony at Tough Love Tattoo Studio in Scarborough, before making the big decision to go self-employed.

“I love it here at Baz’s Salon. I have my own entrance with a lovely outside area and I’m stocking APP-verified jewellery, including Anatometal, Apex, Junipurr and Canasteel,” she says.

“My clients have all loved coming to the new place too. It’s more colourful, more me, and it has plenty of space – even though it’s a small studio.

“Moving forward, I’d love people to say they felt reassured, had a laugh, bought fabulous jewellery and left as a friend. Come and see me for a proper Yorkshire welcome!” @hlpiercings

Piercer Pets What an absolute lad this doggo is! Sidekick to Matt Clarke of The Tattooed Gent, Birmingham Name: Age: Fave treat: Best quality: Trademark dick move:

Oscar Mcdonald 12 Beef Best support dog Zero understanding of personal space

If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

new neomeTal conTacT for uK and europe

with more than 20 years of experience in sales and account management across various industries, Damien is charged with strengthening NeoMetal’s presence in the region and supporting the brand’s growing customer base.

“I am so excited to join the NeoMetal team,” says Damien.

heads up!

Next year, we’ll be showcasing your best work.

Got your angles bang on? Completed a winning curation?

Celebrating your first septum? Finally used that piece you’d been salivating over? send your photo (at full, original size), name and Instagram handle to editor@thesharp-end.co.uk and you could feature in an upcoming edition of the magazine!

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News

Body jewellery manufacturer NeoMetal has proudly announced the appointment of Damien Slade as Account Manager for the UK and Europe.

“The company’s rich heritage and significant contributions to the body piercing industry are inspiring.”

As the dedicated point of contact for UK and european clients, Damien will ensure a seamless experience for both new and existing NeoMetal customers, handling day-to-day queries and account management.

He will also support the existing distributors for the Anatometal brand, which includes Anatometal UK and Aseptic in the eU. He can be reached via email: damien.slade@neometal.com

The (very unscientific) baromeTer of piercing populariTy! What’s hot and what’s not as of the end of September?

The social media community has spoken...

ORAL pIERcINgS OF ANY KIND WERE ON A DOWNER IN SEpTEMBER.

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A cOUpLE OF YOU WERE qUITE SURpRISED ThAT EYEBROWS WERE SUDDENLY SO pOpULAR.

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WOOhOO! WE hAvE A NEW WINNER!

A big thank you to everyone who took part this time! Keep an eye on our Instagram stories and posts for more polls to get involved with for the next issue of @thesharpend_magazine

Piercer Pets Lucy from 1880 Tattoo & Piercing in Wolverhampton brings us this amiable amphibian!

Name: Age: Fave treat: Best quality: Trademark dick move:

Jelly 3 Crickets Always looks super cute will croak at you until you turn the TV down

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If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

Movers and shakers

Over tO yOu

Gemma is hOmeward bOund

Piercer Gemma Suter is on the move back to her hometown of Sheffield, joining the team at The Owl & the Pussycat after almost three years at Rogue Piercing in Nottingham.

“I joined Rogue Piercing in January 2022 and it has been a whirlwind.

I’m grateful for the many people I have met through my time there, and who have supported me on my journey,” says Gemma.

“As much as Nottingham city centre really reminds me of my hometown, I’m ready to head back to Yorkshire to continue practising

my craft and making the North sparkle! I’m also super excited to be offering all intimate and large-gauge piercings in Sheffield and to work with the incredible jewellery collection that Lisa and Chloe have curated there.”

You can catch Gemma at The Owl & the Pussycat in Sheffield city centre as of November. @gempiercing_

As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.

There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!

Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_ magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).

Preview: The wee ScoTTiSh Piercing exPo

IMAgES: POPPY MOON @rAMBlINFEvEr_

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NEWS

The Wee Scottish Piercing Expo is back for its second edition, with returning guests and a host of new features for 2025!

As that springtime energy begins to rise in the northern hemisphere, piercers from all corners of the globe will once again be arriving in the beautiful city of Edinburgh in Scotland for The Wee Scottish Piercing Expo, which returns to the Old Dr Bells Baths venue for its second year.

Taking place 2 to 3 March 2025, the event is sponsored by Buddha Jewelry with support from Stiletto Piercing Supplies UK and Anatometal – and boasts an enviable line-up of speakers and vendors, including Olly Todd, Danila Tarcinale, Hawn Handmade… and The Sharp End! Jess Sellars will also be back, offering daily guided movement to stop those bums getting numb.

More names will be revealed in due course, including some new independent vendors; new speakers with class themes ranging from manifesting goals, to displays and creativity, to piercing techniques; and some international guests who’ll be hosting an interactive discussion on the meaning of community and connection.

The very popular ‘Piercers piercing piercers’ area will be back for anyone who wants to pierce or be pierced, and the venue’s mezzanine area will once

again be utilised, this time as a quiet space enabling up to 10 folks at a time to ‘get away from it all’ without missing out on any of the speakers’ content.

Further self-care will be provided by a brand-new ‘Healing nook’, where there will be yoga, 1:2:1 mentoring advice and free holistic treatments each day.

Free snacks will also be available throughout the expo to keep those energy levels up, as well as hot food and entertainment on the Sunday evening!

Tickets are £150 for the two days.

The price includes all of the above, as well as discount codes for a couple of local hotels. Capacity is limited, so secure your ticket now by emailing theweescottishpiercingexpo@gmail.com @theweescottishpiercingexpo

Stop press!

Don’t miss the Body Play Day, which will once again take place the day after the Expo. Registration for this will open soon, so keep an eye on Instagram @blissofpain for updates! Any queries can be sent to contact@altbodyart.com.

(Expo attendees will receive a special discount on tickets!).

Ace-high Official magazine merch for needle-wielding wizards

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COMING SOON

for your diary Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...

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‘Live, Laugh, Large gauge’ webinar 25 november Online @cognition.training

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uKapp conference 2025 28-30 september 2025 Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk

internationaL inspiration

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the wee scottish piercing expo 2025 2-3 march 2025 The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh @theweescottishpiercingexpo

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appe vii meeting 1-3 April 2025 Spain @appe.piercing fr.a.p.p.e 2025 16-18 May 2025 Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_ app annuaL conference and expo 22-27 June 2025 Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org bmxnet 14-17 August 2025 Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org gep congress 31 August-4 September 2025 Sao Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing app beneLux conference 20-22 October 2025 Veldhoven, The Netherlands @appbenelux

Let’s fiLL this map up! If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

SAFEJEWELRY. ORG -SAFEPI ERCI NG. ORG

BODYJ EWEL RY VERI FI CATI ONPROGRAM

E l e v a t i n gS t a n d a r d s , A d v a n c i n gT r a c e a b i l i t y a n dA c c o u n t a b i l i t yi nB o d yJ e we l r yMa n u f a c t u r i n g .

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Ch nging regulationS With this special pocket guide, APP Medical Director Pablo PERElMUtER, of Lemonade Piercing in California, alerts us to upcoming new eU product safety regulations affecting body piercing jewellery 17

Replacing the older General Product Safety Directive, this new regulation addresses the challenges posed by modern retail, especially online sales and new technologies.

For the body piercing jewellery industry, GPSR introduces stricter material standards, more thorough labelling and stronger enforcement measures.

This regulation is anticipated to be adopted within the UK too.

(Side note: Australia is also attempting to copy-paste it.)

Please note that this is a simplified overview; check your

local regulations to ensure full compliance with the latest legal requirements.

So, what’s new?

1. Stricter material limits The GPSR reduces the permissible levels of hazardous substances such as nickel, lead and cadmium in body jewellery. This aims to protect consumers from allergic reactions and long-term health risks associated with these materials. (For accurate thresholds, please refer to EN 1811:2023.)

2. Mandatory risk assessments Jewellery manufacturers are now required to conduct and document risk assessments for each product.

This helps identify potential hazards and establish measures to mitigate them.

3. Enhanced traceability Full traceability is mandatory under the new regulation.

Manufacturers must be able to track the entire supply chain – from material sourcing to the final consumer.

4. Detailed labelling Jewellery must now have clear labels specifying the material composition, batch numbers and declarations of compliance with the GPSR. 5. Stronger enforcement Penalties for non-compliance are much tougher, with regulatory authorities empowered to issue fines, enforce product recalls and impose sales bans on non-compliant items.

LeGAL UPDATe

Effective from 13 December 2024, the General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR) is a major update designed to strengthen consumer product safety across the EU.

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“These regulaTions apply To all Companies, large and small, To mainTain a fair markeT and proTeCT Consumers”

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LEGAL UPDAtE

What this means for body piercers Sourcing: Ensure your suppliers comply with the new GPSR rules.

Ask for documentation such as test reports that confirm material safety and verify traceability.

Labelling: Make sure all jewellery used or sold in your studio is correctly labelled with the required material information and compliance details.

Traceability: Keep detailed records of all jewellery purchases, including batch numbers and supplier information, to enable traceability in case of issues.

What this means for jewellery manufacturers Material sourcing: Re-evaluate your material sources to ensure compliance with the stricter limits on nickel, lead and cadmium.

Risk assessment: Implement formal risk assessments for each jewellery product, identifying safety risks and detailing how they are addressed.

Testing: Use accredited labs for material testing, keeping detailed records to demonstrate compliance.

Traceability: Develop robust systems to track materials and components throughout the production process, ensuring full traceability from raw materials to finished products.

Labelling: Update labels to include material composition, batch numbers and compliance declarations.

Documentation: Maintain comprehensive technical files, including risk assessments, test reports and material specifications.

Consequences of non-compliance Financial penalties: Fines for non-compliance can range from thousands to millions of euros depending on the violation.

Product recalls: Regulatory authorities can mandate product recalls, requiring businesses to remove non-compliant items from the market.

Sales bans: Products deemed unsafe can be banned from sale within the EU. the new regulations under the GPSR not only ensure that body piercing jewellery is safer for consumers but also distribute responsibility across the entire supply chain – from manufacturers to piercers. Every party involved – whether sourcing materials, producing jewellery or selling it to consumers – must ensure compliance with these stricter controls. this presents particular challenges for small manufacturers, who may face resource constraints in adapting to the new material limits, traceability requirements and testing protocols. However, these regulations apply to all companies, large and small, to maintain a fair market and protect consumers.

We remain vigilant as the industry adapts to these changes and will continue monitoring how smaller businesses are affected to ensure that all companies can meet the requirements while staying competitive. @safepiercing

ARE YOU DOING THE RIGHT BLOOD-BORNE VIRUS TRAINING? OUR ONLINE COURSE IS UKAPP & APP membership compliant

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A u t When tasked With creating a spellbinding seasonal curation celebrating the rich colours and classic symbols of autumn, these six jeWellery brands did not disappoint…

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From the LeRoi ‘Hommage Collection©™’, these designs are all cast in-house in 14ct yellow, rose and palladium white gold. Handset with Austrian machine-cut stones in dark red, caramel, amber and fancy champagne

LeRoi

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1. Kerry Jane, 14ct yellow gold, chatham lab-created champagne sapphire baguettes, 2mm orange sapphire princess 2. pablo, 14ct yellow gold, citrine and golden rutilated Quartz Kites 3. starling, 14ct rose gold, zawadi sapphire rose-cut marQuise, madeira citrine marQuise, chatham lab-created champagne sapphire rose-cut round 4. trillion Faraway, 14ct white gold, madeira citrine rounds, smoKy Quartz trillion 5. the watcher, 14ct yellow gold, mexican Fire opal round, garnet baguettes 6. zephyr, 14ct yellow gold, orange sapphire princess, chatham lab-created champagne sapphire princess 7. doJa sKull, 14ct white gold, garnet

BVLA bvla.com

Jewellery showcase

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1. Rise + shine, smoky quaRtz and black spinel ombRe 2. mixt, smoky quaRtz and black spinel 3. Wild soul, cz 4. JaRdin, cz 5. bee chic, citRine 6. Vision, Rutilated quaRtz 7. cRaVe, moss agate and cz. all aVailable in 14ct yelloW, Rose oR White gold

Buddha

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1. Artemis, kite-cut citrine with AlternAting gold And diAmond edge threAdless end, 8mm x 5mm, 14ct yellow gold 2. BAt chAin, 35mm chAin, Bezel-set round gemstones, dAngling Bezel-set peAr gemstones And BAt chArm, 14ct yellow gold with red gArnet 3. Blood drip chArm, Bezel-set round And peAr gemstones, 14ct yellow gold with red gArnet 4. weB chAin, delicAte chAins with Bezel-set gemstones (top chAin, 35mm), 14ct yellow gold with red gArnet 5. evil eye chArm, gemstone pupil, rAy texture And cAscAding chAins, 14ct yellow gold with red gArnet 6. illuminAti, single-coloured fAceted gemstone set on A triAngle plAtform threAdless end, 2.5mm, orAnge sApphire, 14ct yellow gold 7. ovAl rose-cut citrine clAw-set solitAire threAdless end, 3mm x 6mm, 14ct yellow gold

Modern Mood modernmoodbodyjewelry.com

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1. 14ct Rose Gold AvA set with A BlAck spinel centRe stone Accented By pink And yellow sApphiRes 2. 14ct Rose Gold MARquise eye set with An AndAlusite 3. 14ct Rose Gold RAised cRoss 4. 14ct white Gold Recessed cRoss 5. 14ct yellow Gold BAsket set with A MontAnA AGAte 6. 14ct yellow Gold Boo (left fAcinG) 7. 14ct yellow Gold Boo (RiGht fAcinG)

LocaL Natives localnativesjewelry.com

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Pictured: 14ct Rhodolite tRillion chain (tlchain25Rd) 14ct Gold citRine Bezel Pin attachment (tlPin104ci) 14ct Gold Pavé EtErnity hinGe RinG (tlmR1Ga) 14ct thReadless Gold PRonG set Gem Pin attachment (tlPin103) 14ct delia Gold thReadless attachment (tlPin267) 14ct Gold citRine Pavé FRont FacinG hinGe RinG (tldaith10ci) 14ct Gold leaF Pin attachment (tlPin127) 14ct Gold GaRnet Bezel Pin attachment (tlPin104Ga) 14ct Gold hanGinG chain chaRm (tlchain4)

T i s h Ly o n tishwholesale.com

14ct Gold hanGinG tRiPle chain chaRm (tlchain10)

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Comment

The UKAPP’s 2024 conference signalled the end of another term for the organisation’s board. Here, Becky Crossan reveals who is at the helm for the next three years…

Big changes are taking place in the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP)! After a very successful 2024 conference in a new venue and new city, we are very excited to welcome three new board members.

Rhian Mansfield will be taking on the role of Membership Liaison, Beth Meakings is taking on Public Outreach and Brigita Margyte is joining as our brand-new Vice President. Emma Regan will remain as Secretary and Denise Thompson as Medical Liaison. This means that I will be taking on the role of the organisation’s President.

Having served their three-year board terms, both David Angeles and Rhianna Jones decided not to stand for an additional term. On behalf of the entire UKAPP board, I want to extend my sincere thanks to both of them for the hard work they have done over the past three years.

Being on the board for the UKAPP is entirely voluntary and unpaid, and a lot of work that goes on behind the scenes isn’t always recognised, outside of planning the yearly conference. Both David and Rhianna have excelled in their roles and it was truly a privilege to work alongside them.

We also want to take this opportunity to say a big thank you to all the folks who made the 2024 conference the success it was!

About the UKAPP The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.

The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation.

This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards and health and safety criteria, such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens.

The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.

For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk

It really does take a village, and we are so thankful to our speakers, vendors and incredible volunteer team for all their hard work throughout the event.

Additionally, we want to thank the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) for their continued support. The UKAPP is an APP sister organisation and the help they offer us enables us to bring some of the most esteemed international speakers to the UK. In terms of plans going forward, the organisation has a lot of projects to pick up and run with right away.

We will be continuing to liaise with Public Health regarding the Welsh Licensing regulations. We are also in the process of launching our Outreach Committee (for which we are always looking for more volunteers – please get in touch!) and continuing work on the brand-new UKAPP website, which was unveiled earlier this year.

If you would like to volunteer for the UKAPP, either on the Outreach Committee or in any other capacity, please email Brigita at vicepresident@ safepiercing.co.uk with a list of any skills or interests that you have.

Please note that you don’t have to be a member of the organisation in order to volunteer.

In further exciting news, 2025 will be the UKAPP’s 10th birthday! We are already starting to plan for next year’s conference and hope to be able to make it something really special.

So, watch this space!

The Sharp End ads Oct 23.pdf

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31 Sharp thinking

Kitty Hillier

Images: KayleIgh Butcher PhotograPhy

Brazen Body Piercings, Wales, and Amethyst Adornments, Chester Piercer by day, circus gal by night! I spend my days adorning people’s bodies with beautiful jewellery, but at night my alter-ego comes out to play!

Performing under the name ‘Kitty Von Crypt’, I’ve been involved with the circus arts for almost a decade. I started my journey by learning to eat and breathe fire, though these days I have several unusual skills under my belt, including eating lightbulb glass, hammering nails up my nose... and even being strapped into an electric chair on occasion!

I’ve performed all over the country at tattoo conventions, fetish clubs and festivals. My favourite show experience to date has to be when I was given piercing wings live on stage, which were then set on fire, creating incredible flaming wings!

When I started my piercing apprenticeship, my circus life took somewhat of a back seat to allow me to focus all my energy on learning. I still performed when I could, but it went from doing shows most weekends to one every month, or sometimes less. These days I still definitely don’t perform as often as I used to, but I get out as and when I can. It’s a really useful skill to have – autumn/wintertime means lots of Halloween and Christmas bookings, and since the studio can be quiet during these months, performing helps me top up my income.

I’ve been shortlisted as a finalist in two categories for this year’s UK Glamour and Fetish Awards, and will be heading down to London in November for the awards ceremony! @piercedbykitty @kittyvoncrypt

The not-so-secret life of a burlesque performer! My name is Lou Safire, and as well as being a body piercer and tattoo artist, I’ve been travelling the world as a burlesque performer for the past 16 years.

Growing up, I was always fascinated by the eccentric and the theatrical. I found early inspiration in vintage glamour, but I also fell in love with the world of circus arts such as fire-eating, side show and aerial work – all of which eventually became key elements in my performances. Burlesque allowed me to combine all these passions into something entirely my own.

Throughout my career, I’ve had the privilege of performing at some of the most incredible venues and festivals around the world. I’ve toured and headlined across Europe, the USA and beyond, bringing

@twistedmonkeytattoo @lou_safire

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my blend of burlesque and circus arts to the stage.

Balancing these careers can be a challenge, but the two worlds complement each other. Both burlesque and body modification are about self-expression and empowerment. Burlesque allows me to be free, exploring my creativity without limits, while body piercing and tattooing provide me with structure and focus. Together, they create a sense of balance in my life. I love the freedom of travelling the world and performing, but I also cherish the days spent in the studio, working one-on-one with clients and helping them express themselves through body art.

I’ve made it my mission, not only at my studio but also as a performer, to advocate for inclusivity and diversity. As a non-binary person, I believe in the importance of creating space for everyone, no matter their gender, body type or background. Burlesque and body modification are about freedom, and I want to ensure that everyone feels empowered to express themselves. I’ve been fortunate enough to use both these platforms to speak out on issues of body positivity and LGBTQ+ rights, and I hope to continue inspiring others to embrace their authentic selves, both on and off the stage.

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Image: Claude HoCHseTTer

Lou Safire

Twisted Monkey Studio, Ipswich

Chloe ViCtoria Evergreen Studio, Coventry When people ask what I do for work, I ask if they want the short answer, “I’m a body piercer”, or the long answer, “I’m a body piercer, aerial hoop instructor and I run a content creation business”.

I fell in love with aerial hoop in the summer of 2018 when a friend took me along to a class.

At first, I was awful at it, but it’s incredible how quickly your strength builds, especially once I started attending three hoop classes a week!

During the Covid lockdown, my studio asked me if I’d like to become an instructor, which felt amazing as it confirmed that I was actually quite good at this! I qualified as an instructor in September 2021 and started teaching instantly. Teaching hoop is something I really enjoy. I love watching my students accomplish things they never thought they could, and I also love giving my students a place to decompress through exercise and art.

When I explain to people what it is I do, I always have to say, “You know, like the circus”, as a lot of people have no idea what it is, but it’s basically dancing and performing tricks on a big spinny metal hoop in the air.

I also recently launched C. V. Socials, a business aimed at helping other small businesses with their online presence, offering workshops, content creation and assessments on their existing socials. Social media is something I’ve always just had a knack for and in these early months of business I’ve already run three workshops for one client and created content for two others!

We know the piercing business can be a little unpredictable, so having more than one string to my bow not only makes me feel financially more secure but means I can always keep busy when piercing is slower. As they say, idle hands are the devil’s workshop. Not just a piercer, right? @chloevictoriapiercer @cvsocials

Shannon Buxey Amethyst Adornments, Chester

ShArp thInkIng

@amethystadornmentsuk @twisted.peak

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My side hustle has grown out of a passion project. I have more than 10 years in the body piercing and tattoo industry, so with that I feel as though I’ve really learnt the value of having a personalised, dynamic look to make customers recognise my business and brand, and to stand out from the others.

During this decade, I opened the doors to my own private, piercing-dedicated studio in Chester – Amethyst Adornments. I’d been operating under that name for a few years, renting space within tattoo studios, but this was really the push I needed to establish my own identity within the piercing field, especially in Chester, and from here my passion for designing my own logos and branding really took off. I’ve since helped several peers and friends in cultivating their own look.

So, here I am today! I created twisted. peak with the aim of helping other small businesses find and flourish in their unique style. Specialising in, but not limited to, the tattoo and body piercing industry, I also have experience of the wedding scene from my time in hospitality a few years back, so I now help with wedding branding and styling too.

At twisted.peak, I’m able to offer a variety of different options, whether it’s a full business start-up package or upgrading what’s already there – sometimes giving something a new lease of life is all a business needs to be seen and heard. I’ve also been able to offer running contracts for businesses to roll out new designs and products as they go, which has been a great way for them to keep up with the latest trends. And I’m fortunate to be able to do it all from the comfort of Amethyst Adornments, where it all began.

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sterile gloves As a Royal Society for Public Health-qualified education provider, who better to demonstrate best practice for using sterile gloves than Olly TOdd of Cognition Training

So, here’s a step-by-step overview to help you master the technique…

Heads up! You can also watch video guides to donning and removing sterile gloves by scanning the QR code.

TECH ADVICE

Correctly using sterile gloves ensures that you, your clients, and the sterile field remain uncontaminated, helping to prevent the spread of infections.

They are also now a key requirement for UKAPP membership.

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Sterile gloves are a crucial component in preventing crosscontamination and maintaining good blood-borne virus protocols in your studio.

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1. Hand hygiene Before touching the sterile gloves, it’s important to ensure that your hands are clean and dry.

Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds, covering all surfaces, and then dry your hands fully.

For effective handwashing techniques and information, visit nhs.uk/live-well/ best-way-to-wash-your-hands

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TECH ADVICE

2. Glove size and packaging Choosing the right sterile gloves is imperative.

Using the correct glove size is essential for both comfort and safety, and perhaps even more important are the other details you’ll find on the packaging.

There are three main things you need to check before being able to use your gloves: the expiry date, the size and the ratings on the package.

With all gloves, sterile or otherwise, you should be using those rated appropriately and that carry the CE or newer UKCA mark, meaning they meet the UK’s personal protective equipment (PPE) regulations.

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Don’t forget!

You can keep your UK-specific blood-borne virus training (including glove knowledge) up to date at www.cognition.training

TECH ADVICE

5. The second glove To avoid contaminating the first glove, slide the fingers of your gloved hand under the cuff of the second glove to pick it up. Carefully pull the second glove onto your other hand, adjusting as necessary.

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3 & 4. Donning your first glove Start by placing your glove package on a clean, dry surface. Then peel open the outer package by pulling apart the flaps, being sure to not touch the contents. Open the inner package, exposing the sterile gloves, without touching them directly.

This is done by pinching the inner package at the indicated points and unfolding it with the cuff end closest to you. An important thing to remember is NOT to touch the internal surface of the package as you open it, other than the edge marked with red lines in image 3.

With your non-dominant hand, grab the cuff of the glove for your dominant hand using only the folded edge of the cuff to avoid touching the outside surface. Slide your hand into the glove, ensuring your fingers fit properly into the glove fingers. Pull the glove all the way on, ensuring it completely covers the wrist.

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During use You must avoid touching anything that isn’t sterile. By keeping a sterile field – namely, the inside of the glove package – you can work from this and avoid contamination.

If, however, contact with a non-sterile surface or item occurs, immediately replace the gloves by repeating these steps.

Meet the expeRt

6. Removing your gloves Pinch the outside of one of the gloves at the wrist, being careful not to touch your skin. Peel off the glove, turning it inside out as you remove it. Hold the removed glove in the remaining gloved hand. You should then remove the other glove by sliding the fingers of your ungloved hand under the cuff of the remaining glove and peeling it off, ensuring both gloves are turned inside out and disposed of properly in your bio-hazard waste bin.

Based at Factotum in Norwich, Olly todd has been piercing since around 2008.

A regular speaker at the UKAPP Conference and Piercer Trade Show, as well as teaching at BMXnet in Germany and a host of private studio events, his educational work has rapidly

Sterile gloves are just one element of maintaining a safe and sterile environment. Be mindful of all the components that contribute to overall hygiene, such as hand hygiene, cleanliness of work surfaces and proper disposal practices.

Following these steps will help ensure that your sterile gloves are used effectively, maintaining the integrity of a sterile piercing and minimising the risk of contamination to keep you and your clients safe. @ollytoddpiercing @cognition.training

expanded since 2019. Having launched Cognition Training in 2021, he now delivers online and in-person seminars to body art professionals across the world, as well as the Level 2 Award in Infection Prevention and Control and UK-specific blood-borne pathogen training for piercers.

The Sharp End ads Oct 23.pdf

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Nash BryaNt of the Body Piercing Archive introduces us to a fascinating collection of tools and jewellery crafted by the hands of Fakir Musafar

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along the winding road of piercing history, there have been figures and groups of people that have changed our industry irrevocably. Fakir Musafar is certainly one of those people, and in this dispatch from the Body Piercing Archive we would like to highlight some of the handmade tools and jewellery that Fakir used throughout their life.

Piercing has always been an art and practice necessitating creativity and invention. Without a charted path through modern materials, piercing enthusiasts and practitioners in the mid-to-late 20th century would experiment with

those materials and develop new ways to think about how to employ them.

We wanted to gather a wide range of examples, so in these pictures you will see many familiar shapes and a few that require explanation. With what is more easily recognisable as body jewellery, you’ll see fixed bead rings, large captive rings, septum spikes and large threaded gems. There are also machined pieces of metal that look like simple tubes (because they are) and these were worn in large gauge piercings.

Many of the items that are part of our Fakir collection have an aura

All iMAges courTesy oF The Body Piercing Archive

Made tO Measure

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of mundanity because to modern viewers these shapes and objects are very familiar. I think it is good to be reminded here that these things were not readily available and were certainly not being manufactured in the 50s when Fakir began exploring body modification. The best example of this is the nail.

Simply notched, sanded, and ever-so-slightly bent, what was once a simple piece of metal for construction becomes a very effective piece of septum jewellery.

Many of the tapers shown here were carved

by Fakir out of dowels that could be procured from a hardware store. At this time in the West, people were still in the grips of conservatism after World War II, so imagine trying to find tapers to stretch your

1. A SelecTIoN oF jeWellery ANd ToolS ThAT deMoNSTrATe The Scope oF FAkIr’S crAFTSMANShIp 2. SepTuM SpIkeS 3. A NAIl, AdApTed INTo A pIece oF SepTuM jeWellery 4. A rANGe oF TAperS 5. cheST plAy clAMp

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The range of materials used is wide, with steel, aluminium, wood, nail polish, plastic and electrical tape making appearances.

Speaking of stretching nipple piercings, Fakir also made these clamp-style devices (above) for chest play and considered them to be a great way to encourage tissue growth.

In the collection, it is hard to ignore the intrigue around these clamps. I think it’s because they are more obviously made by hand, and the sexual connotations are always something people love to see and talk about. The particular one shown here is carved wood, medical gauze, adhesive and hardware. These simple and readily available materials are transformed

by Fakir’s hand into an object that blurs and blends the boundaries of sexual exploration and body modification.

We also wanted to show some tools from the 90s, so here you’ll see a short taper made of wood and painted red as well as two different needle pushers.

For me, these needle pushers showcase the

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septum, nipples etc. Quite the task! With a strong drive and desire for self-exploration, Fakir made it work with what was readily available and you can truly see how well used and loved these objects were.

Fakir reports that their own nipple stretching occurred from 1958 to 1975. The items used consisted of graduated tapers, stackable retainers and rings of various gauges and materials.

Fakir’s technology drew from ethnographic references, such as a Balinese stretching/ wrapping method called ‘subang’, as well as shared information from peers such as William Granger and, later, Viking Navarro.

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particularity of piercing for Fakir. I wonder when Fakir would have used one over the other and vice-versa.

Included with these is a large model of a needle – a way to more clearly demonstrate and teach about bevel theory. These objects are all considered part of our Fakir Intensives Collection and would have been used as teaching tools during those courses.

With all of these pieces I see such a dedication to the craft of piercing. From both Fakir’s personal exploration of body modification and then the transition to teaching and sharing that passion with others, Fakir’s hand is present in all of these objects.

From the sandedsmooth surfaces of the tapers, to the tightly wrapped gauze of the clamps, Fakir was able to translate a need and desire for changing the shape of

one’s own body into an object that would enable and materialise that want, need, desire.

We take great pride in being the stewards of these objects and we hope you have enjoyed learning a little bit more about them and Fakir.

6. round needle pusher And CIrCulAr needle pusher 7. red-pAInTed TAper 8. lArge model oF A needle. CIrCA 1990s.

FAkIr InTensIves ColleCTIon

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As we reach the end of this year’s wellbeing series, Jess Sellars explains how yoga teachings can be applied to everyday life as a piercer In fact, physical movement is only one of eight ‘limbs’ (or facets) of yoga: YAMA - Social ethics NIYAMA - Personal practices ASANA - Postures PRANAYAMA - Mindful breathing PRATYAHARA - Tuning inward DHARANA - Concentration DHYANA - De-concentration/meditation SAMADHI - Pure bliss I, for one, still go through phases where I don’t have the time or space to commit to a regular asana practice. So how can we infuse yoga into other aspects of our lives?

As mentioned last time, yoga is a space for presence, to connect with the self. To practise yoga off the mat means bringing the same presence and dedication to ourselves and every part of life.

Wellbeing

I hadn’t had a regular physical practice (asana) for a while, I couldn’t (and still can’t) balance on my head, my hamstrings were as stiff as a board, and I pretty much had a hunchback from a decade of piercing.

Throughout my training, my asana obviously got better with regular practise, but I also started to realise all the ways I was practising yoga without even stepping onto the mat.

Like we spoke about in the previous article, yoga isn’t just the physical practice – it’s a way of life. There is so much philosophy behind it, and ancient texts actually focus very little on the physical practice. When Patanjali (who wrote the Yoga Sutras) speaks about ‘asana’ he is not referring to a headstand or warrior pose, he is talking about the position you choose to sit in when meditating. Asana, meaning ‘seat’.

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remember when I first started yoga teacher training, I felt so inadequate.

Here’s a brief insight into each one and how we could apply it in our lives, specifically in our careers as piercers.

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Wellbeing

The Yamas AHIMSA (non-harming, non-violence) Any thoughts, words or actions that cause harm to others or ourselves violate Ahimsa. Use your words kindly to your peers, your clients and yourself. As an industry, I feel like we do really well at putting ourselves down.

It reminds me of my favourite quote (commonly attributed to Bruce Lee online): “Don’t speak negatively about yourself, even as a joke. Your body doesn’t know the difference. Words are energy and cast spells, that’s why it’s called spelling. Change the way you speak about yourself and you can change your life. What you’re not changing, you’re choosing.”

SATYA (truthfulness) This is more than not telling lies. It extends to not misleading others or yourself.

Maybe you need to sit down, look at your finances and be honest with yourself about where you might be wasting money/time in your business?

Where do you need to improve?

Be honest with clients about their anatomy and jewellery choices; not simply selling a piece to make the sale, but

IMAGE: SHUTTER2U-stock.adobe.com

In yoga, the limbs are set out kind of like a ladder, with the goal being to reach Samadhi.

So, a good place to start would be the first two limbs. The Yamas and the Niyamas are essentially ‘moral codes’, or correct ways of living.

asking yourself whether that jewellery will truly work in that piercing. Are you using the best stuff for your clients?

ASTEYA (non-stealing) This also refers to things like taking from the planet (how can you make your business more eco-friendly?), not wasting your own or other people’s time, and not supporting policies or companies that exploit others. In my case, I try to buy second-hand clothes and use products from eco-friendly companies as much as possible, both at work and at home.

BRAHMACHARYA (right use of energy) Not wasting energy on unhealthy behaviours, such as spending too much time on social media, comparing yourself to others in the industry, engaging in gossip etc.

APARIGRAHA (non-greed, non-hoarding) This can relate to both physical and conceptual things. Maybe there is something you want to achieve, and you feel like you won’t have ‘made it’ if you don’t? It’s about releasing the attachment to this; knowing that you are more than your accomplishments and that is not the only measure of success.

The Niyamas SAUCHA (cleanliness) This refers to both the body and the mind; keeping the body clean but also removing anything that is harmful or unnecessary. That can mean getting rid of excess possessions, eating a healthy diet and limiting social media etc. ‘Energetic hygiene’ is a thing I speak a lot about in my self-care classes; we are what we eat, not just in terms of food and drink but also what we absorb from our surroundings.

SANTOSHA (contentment) This isn’t something we ‘do’ but something we try to cultivate for ourselves, appreciating what we have and being happy with where we are instead of where we think we should be. This could be a gratitude practice, or reminding yourself of how much you do have instead of worrying about what gold/brands/clients you don’t have.

Simple ways to take yoga off the mat

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Surrender Life is sometimes out of your control, it’s ok to let go.

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Move your body Asana is about exploring your physical body so you can find comfort in stillness. Move your body however feels good, so you can create space to be still.

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Take time out Life can be busy – we have so many tasks and clients, as well as lives outside of work. But time for stillness is so important.

It doesn’t have to be a formal meditation, just a few moments in the day – maybe at the end of your lunch break – to simply ‘be’.

No distractions, no phone, no to-do lists; just time for you.

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Learn Be open to new knowledge and ways of thinking. Not just through formal learning at conferences, but in day-to-day life and interactions with clients. There are gurus and lessons everywhere if we are open to learning.

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Breathe Most of us are breathing wrong – we breathe into the chest and not the belly.

Take a deep breath into the belly. Then another. And another. Try to come back to your breath between every client.

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Be here now Whatever you are doing, practise being fully present in the experience. When you’re washing your hands, feel the sensations – how does the soap smell? What does it feel like on your skin? What can you hear? What thoughts are swirling around in your head?

Just begin to notice. If you don’t know where to start, start here. In the now.

TAPAS (discipline) This includes things like exercising, eating healthily, not wasting time – anything that requires discipline. Maybe it’s the discipline of doing your paperwork and filing your tax return on time!

SVADHYAYA (study of the self and the texts) Understand yourself better by slowing down, journalling, watching how you react in situations, paying attention and noticing when you might need a break. This is also about studying philosophy – or, in our case, constantly learning and educating ourselves in piercing!

ISVARA PRANIDHANA (surrender to the higher power) Some see this as surrendering to God, the universe, or whatever you believe in. But it also means surrendering control, letting go of what’s outside of our control, accepting things as they are and not trying to force them. This could mean accepting that sometimes business is slow, and sometimes things go wrong that are out of our control!

There is so much more to unpack about the philosophy of yoga, but these are simple ways to incorporate it into daily life. A lot of you might be practising yoga without even realising it! @jessicat_piercing @_lunarising

Wellbeing

Be kind Practise kindness towards others and yourself. No putting yourself down!

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I’ve been piercing professionally since 2018, but my fascination for body modification began in the early 90s when my aunt introduced me to the punk rock scene and pierced my lobes with a sewing needle, making me feel like the coolest kid in the room!

Encouraged by my partner, I entered the piercing industry in my late 30s, when I felt my career needed a change that was more in line with my passions and interests.

Initially, I enrolled in a piercing academy assuming it was the formal route, but I soon realised it wasn’t. Determined to improve, I bought and studied The Piercing Bible and Gray’s Anatomy, whilst the internet brought me to the Piercing Nerd blog and the Piercing Wizard Podcast. These things enlightened me on safe piercing practices and the diversity of techniques and anatomies, as well as leading me to discover the APP, with the goal of meeting their high standards.

After lots of anatomy lessons, workshops, zoom classes with Ryan Ouellette and Elayne Angel, online courses through the APP website, shadowing of experienced piercers and extensive practise with family and friends, I finally started working in different London studios. Two significant ones for me have been Blackline in Brixton and Metal Morphosis in Carnaby.

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For family reasons, I recently had to relocate to Wales. At first, it felt like a huge step back, but thanks to Zoe Beaumont who welcomed me, I found a home at Brazen Body

Piercings in Llandudno, where I’m working as a Senior Piercer and Studio Manager.

My greatest achievement so far was becoming a UKAPP member in 2022. However, my greatest pride comes from stepping out of my comfort zone, leaving the financial security of traditional employment to follow my passion for piercing. This made me understand that with determination and self-confidence, I can achieve any goal I set my mind to. It also helped me overcome my introversion and boosted my personal growth.

Thanks to this industry, I have formed enduring friendships with people I now consider family.

One such person is Davide Bassi, to whom I owe a lot on a personal level. I’ve also found fulfilment in mentoring and advising other piercers, helping them improve and achieve their goals.

My advice to fellow piercers is to believe in yourself, set personal goals, and continuously push beyond your comfort zone. The piercing community is vast, supportive and always evolving, offering endless opportunities for learning and growth. Remember, once you’re a piercer, you’re never alone! @aldus.piercer

Sometimes, the place you’re meant to be in life is just there, waiting for you, as Aldo FerrAzzA of Brazen Body Piercings in Llandudno, Wales, has discovered

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Gold Knuckles / Pinky Ring: Dream Weaver / Necklace: Kerry Jane - Izzie Pop - BVLA Ambassador - LA, California

/ Lobes: Queen Elizabeth / 2nd Lobes: Kaneda with Be My Druidess & Morana / Conch: Medusa / 2 Finger Ring: Jill’s