The Sharp End - Feb/Mar 2025

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STUDIO FOCUS SOLO PIERCER LIFE

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28/01/2025 13:08

Is it too late to say happy new year?

Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief

Editor-in-chief Louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart To find out how to advertise in The Sharp End, please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk The Sharp End Magazine @thesharpend_magazine Find us the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us Cover image Pieces by BVLA, People’s Jewelry, Tish Lyon, Buddha, LeRoi, Ember Body Jewelry; turn to page 18 Printed by Page Bros, Norwich

The editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement they express or advice they give in this publication. The opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the editor or publishers. All content including the presentation thereof in this magazine is the property of the editor and protected by international copyright laws. You may not copy, reproduce, distribute, transmit, modify, create derivative works, or in any other way exploit any part of copyrighted material without prior written permission from the editor. ©2025 Louise Hoffman

EDITOR’S LETTER

All best wishes,

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Maybe, but since this is the first issue of 2025, I’m going to do it anyway and wish you all the most joyful and prosperous of years ahead.

One thing I’ve been impressed by, working on this edition, is just how many industry events have already got their 2025 dates locked in!

This is a real step change, even compared to the beginning of 2023 when I first started compiling a calendar for The Sharp End. The huge number of events now taking place across the world demonstrates what a strong community spirit and commitment to forever-learning the industry has.

It’s lovely to see how they all take such an individual approach to format, branding, speaker selection and class topics, keeping things interesting and relevant for attendees at all stages of their careers.

There’s also an increasing emphasis on providing self-care sessions and chillout areas, as well as a broader choice of evening socials. At last year’s UKAPP

Conference, for example, there were alcohol-free evening talks, whilst at this year’s Wee Scottish Piercing Expo attendees can enjoy massages, holistic treatments and yoga. Such important additions to the more ‘traditional’ line-up!

The calendar for 2025 (as it stands so far) can be found on page 16. Which events will you be attending? Keep an eye on social media to find out where The Sharp End will be making a guest appearance… along with other exciting announcements!

I’ll shut up now so you can get stuck into this issue and spend your day in the most perfect way: in the company of peers, consuming positive content… and decked out in diamonds! Turn to page 18 for the latter.

IMAGE: JAMIE BOLTON @A.SHORT.INTERLUDE

WELCOME TO

From fire-eating and burlesque performin content and brand marketing, four pier reveal their alter-ego

30_ INSIDE THIS ISSUE

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ICE, ICE, BABY Have we got a sub-zero jewellery showcase in store for you! Get ready for some seriously dazzling diamonds and clear crystals

06 _ NEWS AND VIEWS All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community 16 _ DATES FOR YOUR DIARY Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place across the world in the coming months

46 _ CONVERSATIONS THROUGH TIME Hidden in the pages of a 19th-century medical publication are fascinating insights into the history of body piercing, as well as surprising similarities with the present day, as Nash Bryant reveals 50 _ END-NOTE INSPO For Vicky Nicolson-Birks of Auryn Adornments in Aberdeen, following a path into piercing has been a journey of self-discovery and -celebration

CONTENTS

28 _ IT’S OH SO QUIET When slow season strikes, it’s easy to be consumed by fear over the future of your business, but why not use it to your advantage instead?

UKAPP President Becky Crossan has some top tips

41 _ TIME FOR TECHNIQUE Piercer, educator and new APP board member Jesus ‘Sala’ Cabanas examines the history and technique behind the forward-facing nostril or ‘mantis’ piercing

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eating and e performing to nd brand g, four piercers ir alter-egos!

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30 _ ME, MYSELF AND I The chances are, you either are a solo piercer, you’re thinking of becoming one, or you’ll end up being one at some point.

So, what are the pros and cons?

Five lone wolves tell it how it is

All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community

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NEWS

GET-PIERCED GOES EXCLUSIVE

Remember the epic refit at Carlisle-based studio Get-Pierced, covered in the very first edition of this magazine? Well, guess what… it’s now officially a BVLA Exclusive Retailer! Owner Jabba and piercer Chanelle tell the story…

“During discussions in the studio about what we would achieve in 2024, we realised we missed being appointment-only, meaning clients could be served without interruptions and browse our jewellery without feeling rushed.

“An idea that kept coming up was VIP appointment slots, where a client could have our time for

an hour to plan, curate, chat and pierce. We decided we wanted to go with BVLA as our flagship brand for this, as we feel they have the best selection of jewellery available, with every piece being fully customisable.

It made sense to back the one brand we both love working with, and this would make the ordering process more streamlined.

“While speaking with Kaycee on the BVLA stand at UKAPP, we floated the idea of us becoming an Exclusive studio. She introduced us to Nick Martin, owner of BVLA, and after a quick chat about everything BVLA (and motorcycles and coffee!) we talked about what would be expected of us as an Exclusive studio and what BVLA in turn could offer as a supplier.

“After being back home for a few weeks, with time for both parties to mull everything over and make sure we all felt it would be mutually beneficial and the correct fit, we had a video call with Nick to ask some questions and answer any he had for us… and the deal was done!

“We couldn’t wait to get started.

We added exterior signs advertising BVLA and decals inside the studio, and received the Exclusive Blue Displays, which are incredible and really do make the jewellery pop.

“We’re delighted to be the only Exclusive studio in Cumbria. Since launching, we’ve had amazing feedback from clients as well as the BVLA team. Nick even took time out of his schedule to visit us in person in January, which was really validating.

When asked for his feedback for this article, he said: ‘I LOVED the studio, for the record!’” @get_pierced

ONWARDS AND UPWARDS FOR ISHA Dorchester-based Isha Body Jewellery, the first and (to date) only UKAPP and APP member studio in Dorset, is celebrating expansion, having outgrown its old studio space.

Now located in a prime spot in the town centre’s Tudor Arcade, the new premises offer multiple benefits for this growing business.

“Our new studio is much more spacious to accommodate our expanding team and clientele, and to enable us to take more walk-ins later on down the line. We now have an additional procedure room with disabled access and are located closer to the high street and nearby parking facilities. We’ve got loads of beautiful new

jewellery on its way (did somebody say “BVLA”?), as well as near-future plans to launch our Forever Welded Jewellery service,” says Emma Rance, who first entered the body piercing industry in 1998 and established Isha Body Jewellery in 2015.

Issuing a big thanks to everyone who has supported the team in its journey, Emma (pictured with team member Steph) adds: “At Isha, we pride ourselves on offering a safe, inclusive and welcoming experience to everyone who walks through our doors, and this new space will enable us to continue doing exactly that.” @ishabodyjewellery

FRAME IMAGES: FRAMES MOCKUPS-STOCK.ADOBE.COM

STRUT YOUR STUFF “Even though they’re just simple piercings and jewellery, I’m super proud of this client’s setup that I’ve curated!”

Lucy

@1880piercing

Got your angles bang on? Completed a winning curation? Celebrating your first septum? Finally used that piece you’d been salivating over? Send a photo (at full, original size), name and Instagram handle to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk and you could feature in an upcoming edition of the magazine!

PANTONE COLOUR OF THE YEAR 2025:

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NEWS

MOCHA MOUSSE

The Pantone Color Institute has brought us all some much-needed comfort for 2025, with a Colour of the Year that warms the senses with frothy coffee and tantalises the taste buds like a velvety chocolate dessert: Mocha Mousse.

The Institute’s Vice President Laurie Pressman describes the colour as a “mellow brown hue whose inherent richness and sensorial and comforting warmth extends further into our desire for comfort, and the indulgence of simple pleasures that we can gift and share with others”.

Give your clients this year’s must-have Mocha Mousse look from the get-go or plan ahead for autumn, when this hue will come into its own as the leaves begin to fall. Champagne and chocolate diamond and cubic zirconia, smoky quartz, Zawadi sapphire, and champagne sapphire and moissanite are all perfect choices.

Pictured: the Pear Flower with Zawadi sapphire and champagne diamond, Sarai Oval with Zawadi sapphire and champagne sapphire, and Cab Prong with rose-cut smoky quartz, all by BVLA. pantone.com/color-of-the-year/2025

PIERCER PETS What a duo! These fine specimens are the canine companions of Jazz from Jazzy’s Beauty Therapy & Body Piercing Lounge Names: Ages: Fave treat: Best quality: Trademark dick moves:

Pip and Mason 9 and 4 Fish skins Always provide a laugh Mason parkours the lounge walls; Pip’s just an angel!

If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

PEOPLE’S JEWELRY

HANDMADE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

W: WWW.PEOPLES-JEWELRY.COM

PEOPLES_JEWELRY

PIERCER PETS Middlesbrough-based piercer Kim Hutchinson (aka Skin Seamstress) raises the bar with a regal Rainbow Land Crab!

Name: Age: Fave treat: Best quality: Trademark dick move:

Benedict Cumbersnaps 3 and a half Prawns (anything but kale!)

His little sunroof eyes Always livid, despite having his own private swimming pool and constant snacks

RENOWNED PIERCER LAUNCHES JEWELLERY BRAND

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NEWS

If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

Piercer and conference speaker Loreia has revealed her new jewellery brand, Goldmaedchen, which offers a variety of collections crafted entirely in Germany.

“As the owner of Unknown Pleasures Piercing since 2012, specialising in high-end gold curations, I’ve spent several years contemplating the idea of starting Goldmaedchen to avoid long waiting times and costly international shipping. After facing significant health challenges in

2024, I decided to bring this project to life,” she explains.

“You can select individual items or the full set, each bringing a unique vibe to complement ongoing curations for your clients.

Every piece, featuring 14ct gold chains and tassels, is meticulously produced from wire to finished product, with all items ready to ship within a few weeks. I truly hope you’ll enjoy these pieces as much as I do!” @goldmaedchenjewelry

OVER TO YOU As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.

There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!

Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).

PREVIEW: PIERCER TRADE SHOW

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NEWS

Liverpool is about to host one of the most exciting events in the piercing industry: the Piercer Trade Show!

The team tells us more…

“Taking place at Scale Studios from 27-28 April, this year’s show is set to be a game-changer for piercers across the globe. Known for three years of groundbreaking events, the show is returning with a lineup that promises innovation, education and community.

“One of the highlights this year is the international expertise being brought to the UK, with two incredible educators from the United States joining the roster: Lynn Loheide and Stephanie Abel.

“Lynn Loheide, a trailblazer in the piercing community, is celebrated for their forward-thinking techniques and dedication to inclusivity. Their classes will focus on cutting-edge practices and how to cultivate safe, welcoming environments. Lynn’s approach is sure to inspire attendees looking to take their craft to the next level while prioritising client comfort and trust.

“Joining Lynn from the US is Stephanie Abel, front-of-house manager at Good Life, Akron, Ohio.

A certified gemmologist and true force in the industry, with an unparalleled understanding of gemstones, Stephanie will lead workshops that explore the art of jewellery selection, gemstone quality, and how to elevate piercings with the perfect adornments.

“Her sessions will not only enhance technical skills but also teach attendees how to choose pieces that combine beauty, quality and durability. Stephanie’s unique expertise bridges the worlds of front-of-house and fine jewellery, making her class an unmissable opportunity.

“The Piercer Trade Show is also very proud to have Liverpool legends Mick Stocko and Elly Tso teaching this year!

“In addition, there’ll be some vendors that are never-before -seen at the Piercer Trade Show.

Beckett’s Bazaar will be in attendance, showing off their incredible titanium collection, as well as Liverpool-based The Original Pillow with a Hole and some new piercer-owned gold jewellery suppliers.

“A Piercer Trade Show staple, the Piercing Station will also be running, enabling attendees to be pierced by an incredible selection of piercers! There’ll also be an opportunity to have professional headshots taken by event photographer Josh Hawkins, who will not only have a booth set up, but will be photographing the entire event.

“At time of writing, tickets are still available through the Piercer Trade Show Instagram.

“We can’t wait to share all of this with you in April!” @piercertradeshowuk

THE BEAUTY OF PAIN Antwerp Suscon Fri- Sunday, 19 - 21 September

TICKETS AND INFO: WWW.ANTWERP-SUSCON.BE

Sergeyselsstraat 42, 2140 Antwerpen

@EMBERBODYJEWELRY WWW.EMBERJEWELRYWHOLESALE.COM

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PIERCER TRADE SHOW 27-28 April Scale Studio, Liverpool @piercertradeshowuk UKAPP CONFERENCE 2025 28-30 September Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk

GLOBAL APPE VII MEETING 1-3 April Zaragoza, Spain @appe.piercing 1

BELGIAN PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS SEMINAR 20-21 July The Egg, Brussels @belgian.p.p.s BMXNET 14-17 August Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org GEP CONGRESS 31 August-4 September Sao Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS POLAND CONFERENCE 12-14 September Gdańsk, Poland @professionalpiercerspoland

APP BENELUX CONFERENCE 20-22 October Veldhoven, The Netherlands @appbenelux AUPP ANNUAL PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS CONFERENCE 20-22 October Sydney, Australia 24 October Auckland, New Zealand @safepiercing_au JPPA 2025 ASIAN PIERCERS MEETUP October (date TBC) Tokyo, Japan @safepiercingjapan

OVER TO YOU If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

EVENTS

APP ANNUAL CONFERENCE AND EXPO 22-27 June Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org

APA RITORNO ALLE ORIGINI 5-7 October Pescara, Italy @ritornoalleorigini.apa

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FR.A.P.P.E 2025 16-18 May Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_

ANTWERP SUSCON 19-21 September Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be

IMAGE: OLEKSII-STOCK.ADOBE.COM

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BABY GET YOUR CLIENTS FULLY ICED-OUT WITH A SELECTION OF JEWELLERY THAT’S ABSOLUTELY DRIPPING IN DIAMONDS AND CLEAR CRYSTALS

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Imagine a marketing campaign so powerful that it would continue to have an effect decades later. That’s exactly what diamond company De Beers achieved in the late 1940s, when it launched the tagline ‘A diamond is forever’ in a bid to boost sales after the Great Depression.

Playing on emotional responses to the idea of romance and everlasting commitment to one’s partner in life, these iconic words have permeated every generation since they were first coined by copywriter Frances Gerety at US-based advertising agency, NW Ayer.

In fact, the tagline is credited with being the primary reason why diamonds are considered a near-essential component in modern engagement rings, even today!

But there’s more to the appeal of diamonds than corporate ploys. In jewellery, their desirability lies in their mesmerising sparkle, their clarity, their rarity, their uniqueness and their strength (but do treat them with care, as they can still break!).

Indeed, they’ve been prized for 2,000 years

as a symbol of mystical and protective power, divinity and status.

Of course, there’s no denying the price tag that comes with diamond jewellery; but the beauty of this look is that it can be achieved across a wide range of price points. Clients can go all-out with large or multiple top-grade stones; opt for smaller or single stones; look at lab-created diamonds; choose alternative natural stones, such as moissanite; or get that signature sparkle with cubic zirconias or clear crystals.

We’ve got you covered on all fronts with this dazzling display…

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JEWELLERY SHOWCASE

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1. DEFY GRAVITY, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 2. HALF SUPERNOVA, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 3. MINI GENESIS, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 4. MORANA, 14CT ROSE GOLD 5. MOUNTAIN LIGHT, 14CT ROSE GOLD 6. NAYRU, 14CT WHITE GOLD 7. OCEANE 4, 14CT WHITE GOLD 8. SKYLAR, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 9. SPIKEY GENESIS, 14CT WHITE GOLD 10. TRIX 3, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 11. ZERAPHINE, 14CT YELLOW GOLD 12. NAYRU, 14CT YELLOW GOLD ALL FEATURING WHITE DIAMOND VS

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1. FIVE GEM TITANIUM FLOWER 2. SANDBLASTED CZ FOUR PRONG END 3. TITANIUM INVERTED SIX PRONG END 4. TITANIUM AMREN CLUSTER 5. TITANIUM TWILIGHT CLUSTER 6. INVERTED SIX PRONG BEZEL DANGLE ALL MADE WITH PHASE 1 IMPLANT-GRADE TITANIUM, FEATURING WHITE CUBIC ZIRCONIAS

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TOP ROW (L-R): THREADLESS MOON/BEZEL, FOUR-PRONG ROUND, DOUBLE MILLGRAIN MARQUISE, ZASU-5 STONE MARQUISE, DOUBLE MILLGRAIN BEZEL ALL IN 18CT YELLOW GOLD SET WITH VS1 CLARITY EF COLOUR LAB-CREATED DIAMONDS BOTTOM ROW (L-R): HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION ©™ ‘SEVIL’ (HSMR-E) HINGED RING AND ‘ATARA’ (5H-T) THREADLESS END, 14CT ROSE GOLD WITH LAB-CREATED DIAMONDS, VS CLARITY/EF COLOUR HOMMAGE COLLECTION ©™ SINGLE MARQUISE SETTINGS 4X2 AND 3X1.5MM, 14 AND 18CT YELLOW GOLD WITH LAB-CREATED DIAMONDS, VS CLARITY/EF COLOUR DOUBLE MILLGRAIN PEAR SHAPE 18CT YELLOW GOLD WITH LAB-CREATED 2.5MM DIAMOND, VS CLARITY/EF COLOUR HYBRID ©™ NAVEL CURVE, HIGH POLISH F-136 TITANIUM POST/PRINCESS BOTTOM SETTING/FOUR-PRONG ROUND TOP SETTING, CLEAR/WHITE AUSTRIAN CRYSTALS

LEROI www.leroi.com

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1. 14CT GOLD THREADLESS ALL-SEEING EYE JEWELLED CHAINS ATTACHMENT (TLPIN160) 2. 14CT GOLD THREADLESS ALL-SEEING EYE AND TEAR PIN ATTACHMENT (TLPIN186) 3. 14CT GOLD THREADLESS SWORD AND HANGING GEM PIN ATTACHMENT (TLPIN175) 4. 14CT GOLD THREADLESS GEM SWORD PIN ATTACHMENT (TLPIN174) 5. 14CT GOLD PAVÉ DIAMOND DAITH SEPTUM RING (TLDADAITH1) 6. 14CT GOLD FRONT FACING DIAMOND HINGE RING (TLDAR3) 7. ELVINA 14CT GOLD DIAMOND PAVE HOOP EARRING (TLDAR1)

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1. GSTQ THREADLESS END, 14CT GOLD WITH NATURAL DIAMONDS AND WHITE TOPAZ 2. TEMPESTE CLICKER, 14CT GOLD WITH NATURAL DIAMONDS 3. HIGH STANDARDS CLICKER, 14CT GOLD WITH NATURAL DIAMONDS 4. REBEL HEART, 14CT GOLD WITH NATURAL DIAMONDS 5. ASCEND, 14CT GOLD WITH NATURAL DIAMONDS 6. LYRIC CHAIN, 14CT GOLD WITH CUBIC ZIRCONIA

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1. 14CT YELLOW GOLD ‘JANE CLICKER’ 16G 5/16, 10 BERRY SAPPHIRES 2MM, 13 WHITE DIAMONDS 1.25MM 2. 14CT YELLOW GOLD ‘BIGGEST BASKET’, 5MM ROSE-CUT MOISSANITES, 14G THREADED ENDS 3. 14CT PALLADIUM WHITE GOLD CUSTOM PENDANT, 1CT ASSCHER-CUT DIAMOND, 1.5MM WHITE DIAMONDS X3 ACCENTS

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E M B E R B O DY J E W E L RY emberjewelrywholesale.com

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IT’S OH SO QUIET

IMAGE: JOHN BALK

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COMMENT

It can be easy to panic when tumbleweeds start blowing through the studio, but UKAPP President BECKY CROSSAN encourages us to see slow season as an opportunity in disguise

Slow season. It comes around every year and yet, even for folks who have been in the industry for a while, it can still take you by surprise!

Add a cost-of-living crisis into the mix (or ‘cozzie livs’, as it’s colloquially known!), and we’re bound to worry about the future of our businesses.

This guide is here to remind you that the slow season will come to an end, and you can use it to your advantage by doing all of those tasks that are usually pushed to the bottom of the to-do list when you’re busy with clients.

Slow season is a great time to take a breath, revisit your goals and plan for the future. You might, for instance, have some changes in mind for the way your studio runs or the jewellery you stock. Don’t worry if some of these changes aren’t affordable right now; use the time to plan how you can achieve them financially when things are busier and you have more money in the bank. A clear step-by-step plan will also highlight any smaller steps (possibly even free or very inexpensive) that you can take right away.

Some improvements you might want to make, such as to your booking system or inventory tracking, can be quite time-consuming or cause glitches that need to be ironed out.

So, doing this at your quietest time of year can be ideal to minimise

ABOUT THE UKAPP The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.

The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation.

This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards and health and safety criteria, such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens.

The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.

For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk

upheaval. Likewise, tidying and reworking jewellery displays is so much easier when there are fewer people around!

You can also use the slower times to update your knowledge and skills. This could be your bloodborne pathogen or first-aid training, or other forms of piercing-specific education. There’s a wealth of great resources available online in the form of webinars, courses and Patreon accounts.

Why not use the slow season to refresh your portfolio, social media or website? Your online presence is often a client’s first introduction to you as a piercer, so making sure that you’re showing your best work is really important. Plus, photography is key to promoting your jewellery more effectively. Even during quieter times, clients are keeping an eye on what you put online – and could be inspired to come in for that special piece as soon as they’re able to.

We hope that these suggestions make the quieter times in the studio feel less daunting and more like an opportunity to sit down, take stock and work towards improvements in preparation for the busy times.

Remember, slow season won’t last forever, so take the quieter days as a gift to prepare yourself for when things pick up again.

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Being a solo piercer within a wider tattoo, beauty or retail business is a common setup for many in the industry, and there are multiple ways in which it can work in practice. But what are the pros and cons?

Five lone wolves give their perspectives…

BRADLEY JAMES Sith Tattoo Studio, Norwich

My name is Bradley. I am a solo body piercer of eight years, currently working out of Sith Tattoo Studio in the centre of Norwich, alongside six tattooists.

IMAGES: JADE KELLY @JADEFKELLY

I began my apprenticeship in Cambridge, then moved into the Norwich area at the beginning of 2020, looking to establish myself and hone my skills. I found myself drawn to ‘Sith’ – any studio with a Star Warsrelated name had to be made up of big nerds like me!

My space consists of a private piercing room, which I personalised to my own tastes (very dark and full of horror artwork!), and a shared area for sterilising, equipped with sink, ultrasonic and autoclave.

I work on a self-employed basis, having complete control over my own diary, socials, inventory and hours.

The biggest benefit for me, piercing solo, is the ability to tailor my services to what aligns best for me and my clients. For example, I can shop around to source safe and high-quality jewellery, bringing my customers the best possible experience. I can also be completely selfindulgent and order in all my favourite pieces for curations!

This does mean, however, that the responsibility falls directly on my shoulders for every aspect of the job.

Juggling orders and bookings,

maintaining high standards of practice and keeping a strong social media presence can become particularly overwhelming through busier periods. Conversely, in quieter periods it can be difficult to keep motivated when there are no other piercers to bounce off.

My best piece of advice to anyone in a similar position would be to check in with yourself often and maintain self-care, as you’ll never be able

to give 100% if you aren’t feeling 100%. Try to keep proactive but enjoy the downtime – you’ll be grateful for it when you’re rushed off your feet for weeks on end.

I feel truly blessed to be part of the industry and owe so much gratitude to my clients, old and new, who allow me to continue being the best version of myself. @pierced.by.bradley @sithtattoostudio

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BOO Pin Cushion Piercing, Bristol

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Hello, my name is Boo. I love cats, surfing, dancing… and my job! I’ve been a professional body piercer for 18 years, starting my own business back in 2007.

I’ve mainly operated as a solo piercer, but I’ve also had the privilege of taking on a few apprentices who have stayed with me over the years, before flying the nest to become awesome piercers in their own right.

My business is located in the thriving city of Bristol. It’s attached to Purple Rose Tattoo, which was established by Kat 15 years ago and has since doubled in size. It now has a team of 11, including myself and my front-of-house queen, Nolly.

We operate as a completely independent business – a ‘studio within a studio’. We have our own reception area full of art and jewellery, and a processing/ sterilisation room. I’ve been allowed to design the space I work in and run it how I want, which is something I could only have dreamt about when I first started all those years ago.

I’ve always aimed to create a clinical yet warm, friendly and calming aesthetic, which feels welcoming but also showcases how incredibly sterile we are in the way we operate.

Being self-employed has its highs and lows. You certainly need to be a driven person to go it alone, but it does make you appreciate everything a whole lot more.

If I could offer some advice to fellow solo piercers, it would be to step back and take stock of what you’ve achieved. Know your worth and how bad ass you are!

If you are considering becoming one, it can be super scary, but life’s worth taking risks. If you have that drive and passion... go for it! Oh, and when you think it’s financially viable, get a front-of-house. Honestly, you’ll be thankful! @pincushionpiercingbristol @purplerosebristol

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HAYLEY CAIRNS Needle In A Haystack Piercings, Hornchurch

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I’m Hayley from Needle In A Haystack Piercings. I’m based at Cherry’s Custom Tattoos in Hornchurch, working alongside a team of fabulous tattoo artists.

I’ve been piercing for six years and I’ve always been the solo piercer wherever I’ve worked.

Previously, I was based at a beauty salon, but then I spotted this amazing opportunity to work out of a tattoo studio with everything supplied for me, including APP-approved jewellery!

I went for a chat with the owner, Bec, and immediately felt at home.

I’m self-employed and the shop gets a cut of each piercing I perform.

Having everything supplied for me makes it much easier to track my outgoings and see what I’m earning.

It means I don’t make anything from jewellery sales, but I do get to work with jewellery I only dreamt of previously! Plus, I handle the jewellery orders, so I’m not restricted at all. I also manage my own diary and social media.

The benefit of being a solo piercer is that you make all the money! Being serious though, your space is your own and you can have it arranged for the way you work. You also get to build a better relationship with returning clients.

If you want to be a solo piercer you need to be confident in your abilities, but also confident in turning away any work you’re not comfortable with.

Dealing with problematic clients can be quite scary with no backup, but luckily, where I am now, I have the full support of the shop owner and my co-workers.

Being a solo piercer, you have no one to gain experience or new techniques from. However, the piercing network is vast and the majority of piercers will happily help.

I would love to eventually be able to attend the UKAPP Conference to broaden my knowledge and network.

My top tip for being a solo piercer is to find your people! Working with individuals who respect and understand what you do is key; people who are just as willing to help you as you are to help them. @needleinahaystack.hay @cherryscustomtattoos

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NICO SALT Stay Sharp Studio, Manchester

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I’m Nico, owner of Stay Sharp Studio in Manchester. I run my business solo within an existing tattooing space in Hale.

Whilst I once dreamt of owning my own bricks-and-mortar studio, my current setup suits me perfectly.

Renting space within a tattoo studio is a common and practical approach in our industry.

One of the biggest perks of working alone is full creative control. From curating jewellery collections to designing the workspace, every decision here is mine. The flexibility of setting my own schedule also allows me to prioritise personal goals and mental health. Building direct client relationships is another highlight.

However, solo work isn’t without challenges. Pre-existing tattoo studios may offer conveniences such as sink access, private rooms and display areas, but they’re not purpose-built for piercers. Sharing sterilisation spaces or adapting to unsuitable layouts can be tricky, and expensive. At my current premises, I opted to use disposable tools, eliminating the need for a dedicated sterilisation area.

Managing every aspect of the business – from bookings and queries to deposits, online sales and social media – can be overwhelming. To avoid burnout, which I really suffer

with, I had to learn to dedicate time for admin. I also rely on my web shop as my ‘digital storefront’; without a physical one, building an online presence has been crucial.

Solo work can feel isolating, so staying connected to the industry is vital. Networking and peer support help combat imposter syndrome and keep me motivated. Meanwhile, setting clear boundaries ensures a better work-life balance and prevents constant pressure.

For those who value independence and creativity, solo work can be incredibly fulfilling! @staysharppiercing @moonchildtattoohale

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MEG HOARE True Will Tattoos, Beare Green

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My name is Meg and I’m currently True Will Tattoos’ only body piercer! I have been piercing for three-and-a-half years and work with four tattoo artists.

The studio is based in Beare Green, Surrey; it’s a female and queer-run business and has been for 17 years.

I approached True Will in the winter of 2022 after a two-month hiatus from piercing for my mental health. I was then introduced a month later! My space at the studio is reflective of what I’d like to see when entering a piercing room. I have images of my work on the walls, along with my certificates and licences for clients to read.

I am self-employed, run my social media and diary, and do every jewellery order for the studio independently.

It took me a while to get used to this, but I was thrown into it from the very beginning.

The greatest benefit I have as a solo piercer is that I get to make all the decisions related to piercing at the studio. I decide what jewellery comes in, I am in charge of how many people I see, and it works very well.

However, this position isn’t for those who struggle making decisions for themselves. You have to take everything into consideration – it’s you and your livelihood at stake!

The only downside is that it can be lonely. Having another piercer to talk

to, share ideas with and check anatomy/placement when I’m unsure would help me out. But it’s only made me more assertive. I have reached out to several piercers in the last year and made some beautiful connections. I’m very pleased with my progress as an independent solo piercer. @megsbodypiercing @truewilltattoos

OVER TO YOU

Taking a deeper dive into this theme, we’d love to hear from professional piercers who’ve successfully integrated their services into another industry and can share some of the practical steps they took. Email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or DM @thesharpend_magazine

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THE M NTIS To kick off the year, we welcome international speaker and expert piercer JESUS ‘SALA’ CABANAS, who focuses on the increasingly popular forward-facing nostril piercing

IMAGE: @AGAPIERCING

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Is this piercing a new trend or something that has been around for longer than we think?

My first encounter with the forward-facing nostril piercing, also known today as the mantis piercing, took place around 2005 at the Barcelona Tattoo Convention. I noticed two small dots on the tip of someone’s nose. They intrigued me, and I began to wonder about the origin of this unique placement.

A few years later, I came across a photo of the same person, taken by Phil Barbosa, in the 2002 book ModCon: The Secret World of Extreme Body Modification by Shannon Larratt. To my surprise, the first known person to perform this piercing was Sandrine B Skellie, a Franco-American artist with around 30 years of experience in body art, whose work ranges from simple modifications to advanced procedures, often utilising innovative techniques.

Fast forward to last year, when I was preparing for my class at the APP Conference in Las Vegas, and I discovered that indigenous tribes, including the Korowai of Papua, had performed similar piercings.

However, the piercing as we know it today resurfaced in 2012 when Massimo Cortese submitted a photo of the placement to the BME blog and named it the ‘mantis’ piercing (calling to mind the antennae or eyes of the mantis insect). Yet, to clarify, this piercing

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was first performed in 1998 by Sandrine in New York, and it was only later, in 2012, that the name ‘mantis’ became associated with it.

Performing the mantis piercing

Over the years, I have developed a clear method for performing this piercing. When it comes to the anatomy of the nose, I like to break it down into several elements: the dorsum, sidewall, tip, ala, soft triangle and columella.

From my experience, the best placement for the mantis piercing is in the soft triangle. This area heals relatively quickly – within two to three months – and swelling is minimal. Sometimes, even using a 6mm labret can feel too long during healing.

For jewellery, I prefer using labrets with an 18g (1mm) thickness and a 3mm disc. The length of the jewellery typically ranges from 5.6mm to 6.3mm. I recommend cabochons, discs or any flat design for comfort and aesthetics.

My approach to performing the mantis piercing is versatile, as I believe adaptability is key in piercing.

Depending on the anatomy of the client, I sometimes use the same technique on both nostrils.

I generally use an ‘outside-in’ method, employing a receiving tube shaped like a submarine telescope (commonly called a ‘crackpipe’) or a curette (pimple squeezer).

Occasionally, I have used cotton swabs, but I tend to prefer the curette.

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Here’s a step-by-step guide to take you through the process…

1. Marking: I start by marking the outside of the nose with a very fine dot using gentian violet or a sterile marker.

I align the dots, taking into consideration the anatomy of the nose’s apex. I make a small reference mark on the bottom of the tip to help with alignment during the piercing.

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2. Positioning: I check the marks while the client is sitting upright and again lying down. This gives me a better view of the depth and placement. From behind their head, I can assess the symmetry more accurately.

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3. Prepping the area: Once satisfied with the placement, I cover the face with a sterile drape, leaving only the tip of the nose exposed.

4. Piercing: I insert the curette inside the nostril to gently support the back of the tissue without distorting it. To ensure precision, I modify my needle by lowering the eye of the bevel. This technique eliminates any misjudgement of the angle and results in a clean cut due to the thinness of the tissue.

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5. Second piercing: After the first piercing, I leave a needle or taper in place as a visual reference for the second piercing. This ensures that both piercings are aligned perfectly.

6. Jewellery insertion: Once the piercings are done, I insert the jewellery, ensuring minimal discomfort and optimal healing. Thanks to the precise placement in the soft triangle, healing time is fast and smooth. Clients usually experience little to no swelling, and most heal fully within two to three months. The use of flat, comfortable jewellery further promotes a pleasant healing process.

Today, this piercing has gained popularity, not just because of its unique aesthetic but also due to the relatively easy healing process when performed with care. As with any piercing, the key to success lies in understanding the anatomy, choosing the right jewellery and employing the most suitable techniques.

Whether you call it ‘forward-facing’ or ‘mantis’, this piercing continues to captivate clients and piercers alike. @salabodymod

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MEET THE EXPERT Jesus Cabanas, aka Sala, is a professional piercer with more than two decades of experience.

Currently working at Pinpoint Piercing in Oslo, Norway, he’s been a proud member of the APP since 2015 and recently joined the board. He is also co-founder and Vice President of the APPE (Asociación de Perforadores Profesionales Españoles).

As a worldwide ambassador for the APP, he has contributed significantly to the professional piercing community, focusing on education, innovation and safety standards, and serving as an international speaker and educator at more than 20 conferences since 2007.

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CON ERSATIONS

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The Body Piercing Archive’s NASH BRYANT finds surprising similarities between the 19th and 21st centuries whilst turning the pages of a fascinating Victorian medical publication If you were lucky enough to see last year’s exhibit on Ethel and William Granger during the APP Conference in Las Vegas, you might have seen a book in the exhibit from the late 1800s, titled The Family Doctor. It was included in the exhibition as a relevant precursor to give cultural context for the ways

piercing was talked about and perceived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by the Grangers and their contemporaries.

In this latest dispatch from the archive, we’d like to take a closer look at some of the content you might have found if you were, like the Grangers, interested in piercing and

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1. THE FAMILY DOCTOR, NO 464, SATURDAY, JANUARY 20, 1894 2. THE FULL ARTICLE ON ‘EARS AND EARRINGS’ BY ‘AN ADEPT’, WHICH IS QUOTED IN THIS ARTICLE

past Body Piercing Archive exhibits, because they are quite interesting little mechanical marvels.

The action of piercing they perform is similar to that of a chamfered needle you might pick up today, combined with a plunger and handle to drive the needle through the tissue. Adept thinks this method is “exceedingly painful” based on the “agonising shriek that always follows the closing of the handles”.

In an issue that follows, someone identifying as ‘Pierced Ears’ protests and says that “if the needle piercer is used with the small tube on it, and the best gold wire inserted when the tube is withdrawn, the pain is but little and the ears soon heal”. Discourse over technique and materials? This should sound very familiar to any modern-day enthusiast of the craft.

Remarkably, Pierced Ears then goes on to be specific about the kind of gold: “The reason why some pierced ears are so long healing is that so many of what are called gold wires have so much alloy, which corrodes in the ear and causes much inflammation.”

Again, another modern-day problem that is still being

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE BODY PIERCING ARCHIVE

I am immediately thinking about all the times I’ve been piercing someone, and their friend has made comments about the technique being employed.

Again, I am struck by how time moves forward but some things stay the same.

Adept follows this with: “From my point of view it does not numb the part, and causes a lot of inflammation,” here expressing a clear distaste for this method or at least the part about pinching.

They then go on to explain a “pincer system” that “has the advantage of removing the entire piece”.

Hopefully you’ve been able to see some of these proto-piercing guns at

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searching through the publication for inspiration.

Whilst it wasn’t possible to browse through the large tome during the exhibit, we can now give you a peek inside, and hope that you’ll come to see why this particular serial is so interesting.

When I first read the entries related to piercing, I was struck by a sense of inertia, and felt a bit lost in time. Somehow the conversations held between correspondents and enthusiasts in 1888 felt almost identical to forum posts or responses you might read on an ‘Ask a Professional Piercer’ Facebook page almost 140 years later.

This realisation is somehow comforting and disconcerting all at once.

Here’s a lively conversation between two folks who are describing some methods for piercing. The first, with the nom de plume ‘An Adept’, is writing to explain one such method, and says: “There are many ways of performing the operation. The old method of the needle and the cork is very well; with this plan a deal of pinching of the lobe has to be done to satisfy the friend who has had hers done this way.”

worked on, evidenced by the APP’s own Body Jewelry Verification Program.

Pierced Ears then agrees with Adept that “it would be much better if the wires were made tapering. They could then be inserted into the ear without the use of a piercer”. Isn’t it nice to see people sharing different perspectives on piercing and, even through disagreement, finding common ground? In 1888!

If they can do it, then I know we can too.

MORE VOICES FROM THE PAGES OF THE FAMILY DOCTOR...

Finally, I’d like to leave you with a selection of quotations (see right) that I hope you find humorous, insightful, or at least a little interesting.

The context of them varies but all provide a window into the way piercing was talked about in late Victorian England – as well as a mirror for our own selves doing what is now an industry’s amount of work. @bodypiercingarchive bodypiercingarchive.com

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3. THE FAMILY DOCTOR, NO 466, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 1894

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“My method of piercing has been this. I have a thick pure gold ear-wire three eights of an inch in diameter. This I clasp on the ear and press it slightly, so that it leaves a mark in the exact centre to guide me. I then put a little glycerine on the needle and, supporting the ear on a broad piece of cork, pierce at the exact spot… I bathe the ears two or three times a day with warm water, and at night put a little touch of cotton wool moistened with glycerine at front and back.”

“No little girl worthy of that proud and charming title ever refuses to have her ear pierced. But at the same time, the weakness which she shares with boys and other lower animals may sometimes cause the flesh to shudder, though the spirit be brave.”

“I have gone the length of having my ears pierced for earrings by a jeweller; but after keeping the rings in my ears for a night, my fear of the ridicule a man who wears earrings generally gets overcame my resolution, and I removed the rigs from my ears and allowed the holes to heal up. It is considered effeminate for a man to wear earrings; but why it is more effeminate for a man to wear rings in his ears than on his fingers I cannot see.”

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“I am glad to see from the letters in your valuable paper that there is a desire for greater accuracy in the piercing of ears. To me there is nothing more ugly than an earring inserted into a hole which is far from being properly centred.”

“In a single instant the ear is pierced, the needle withdrawn, and a ring of gold wire remains behind, which, in due course, may be painlessly exchanged for a diamond, a black beetle, a rose, a reptile, or a cauliflower, as the sweet laws of fashion may dictate.”

“It is useless to pierce the ears oneself, for the hole is sure to be in the wrong place.”

ALL QUOTES ARE FROM THE FAMILY DOCTOR, ISSUES NO. 84 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 9,1886; NO. 86 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 23, 1886; AND NO. 95 SATURDAY, DECEMBER 25, 1886.

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I’ve been a piercer for almost two years.

My first foot into the industry was as a studio manager; prior to that, I’d been working as a pub manager. Coming from a hospitality background, I am not afraid of hard graft. I was running my own pub by the time I was 23!

I also thrive when I’m around people, providing great customer service and bouncing off their energy. So, as soon as I was introduced to the world of professional body piercing, all these skills I already had, and the parts of my old job that I loved, slotted perfectly into my new path.

This move has also allowed me to embrace my creative, alternative, weird and queer side. My favourite part of being a piercer is when we are all together – all the outcasts and weirdos just hanging out and sharing our passion for our craft.

I’ve been fortunate enough to learn from some very talented piercers and I am forever grateful to those who have shared their love of this industry with me and supported me in my career thus far.

One of the things I’m most proud of is facilitating a positive, informed and enjoyable piercing experience for my clients. I love working one-on-one with them, getting to understand them as people – their lives, their needs and how I can, through piercing, positively affect them in some way.

As adults we all have such busy lives, and I love how a piercing

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appointment takes 45 minutes out of my clients’ day, where they can take a seat, relax and prioritise themselves.

Before I came into piercing, I started going down the route of

becoming a therapist/counsellor, because I really enjoy helping people.

However, I’d previously tried to go to university on three occasions and dropped out every time because my brain just doesn’t compute with an academic environment. Being on my feet, working with my hands and physically achieving something is where I thrive.

Piercing has made me feel like I’m not a failure for never getting my degree. It has taught me that we can’t all thrive in the same environments, and we all need different things to succeed.

Because of that, I am now the happiest (touch wood) and most confident I have ever been. I feel fulfilled, both in my job as a piercer and in myself as a human.

In the short time I’ve been piercing, I have managed to create an amazing client base that is forever growing. It is an amazing feeling to have so many people trust you with their bodies, and I hope, as I continue through my career, that the magnitude of what I am trusted with isn’t ever lost on me.

The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this is: look after your clients and your clients will look after you. Be kind, be understanding and give yourself grace – something I’m still learning to do myself. @pinksheeppiercing

Discovering piercing is also a discovery of self, as VICKY NICOLSON-BIRKS of Auryn Adornments in Aberdeen articulates perfectly

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