THE MAGAZINE FOR PIERCING PROFESSIONALS > JUN / JUL 2025
Sterile Saline Spray Cleans piercings, supports recovery
Contactless Precision Nozzle For total hygiene
SteriPierce cleans piercings and supports healing by removing debris and bacteria
Pressurised Flow For dislodging debris build up
Hello and welcome to this Jun/Jul issue of The Sharp End! I’ve just arrived back home from the APP Conference and Expo in Las Vegas, US, and I’m sitting down to pen this welcome note just as the magazine is about to head off to the printers.
I’m glad I’ve been able to mention the event right away, as it really was a wonder to behold. No different in basic premise to the UK conferences and shows of course, but the sheer scale was spectacular – more classes, more speakers, more exhibitors, more attendees, more to see and do. A big shout out goes to the APP board, administrator Caitlin McDiarmid, the volunteers and anyone else who had a hand in its creation and delivery. Thank you for welcoming me so warmly.
Indeed, one of the things that struck me the most was just how genuinely and actively the team cared for attendees – being sure to check in if someone was looking a little lost or overwhelmed, and going out of their way to answer any queries or calls for help.
This was a particularly poignant edition of the conference, as 2025 marks the 50th anniversary of Gauntlet – that iconic brand that birthed the modern piercing industry. Founder Jim Ward and his husband and business partner Drew were in attendance, and I was honoured to have the opportunity to meet them, as indeed did so many other attendees. I might also have grabbed a few moments with Jim to prepare something for a future edition of the magazine, so watch this space!
To everyone who attended, I hope you’ve returned to your studios full of ideas and inspiration, and for those who didn’t, maybe it’s on your bucket list for a future year?
In the meantime, here’s a fresh batch of forever-learning – delivered right to your door. Enjoy!
With all best wishes,
Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief
Editor-in-chief Louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart To find out how to advertise in The Sharp End , please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Find us at the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us @thesharpend_magazine The Sharp End Magazine Cover image Adam Holmes; piece by Anatometal, turn to page 18
From fire-eating burlesque performing content and brand marketing, four reveal their alter-egos!
fire-eating and performing to brand four piercers alter-egos!
SEPTUM SUMMER
From gemstone-laced clickers to textured niobium seam rings and titanium BCRs – send your clients out in style with these septum stunners
06 NEWS AND VIEWS
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
16 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place across the world in the coming months
28 EVENT OF THE DECADE September’s UKAPP Conference promises to be a piercer party to remember, as the organisation celebrates its 10th birthday. President Becky Crossan tells us more
30 THE PERFECT GUEST
US-based professional piercer Carlos Duenas gives us the benefit of his experience in the art of guesting
36 MEETING THE ANCESTORS
Lengthy historical research has now revealed fascinating new findings about a UK piercer from the past
42 BME: REANIMATED
As pioneering body mod ezine BME makes its triumphant return, we speak to Nefarious Larratt, daughter of its founder, who has stepped forward to take ownership of the website
46 CATERING FOR KIDS
As the school summer holidays arrive, Olly Todd explains why offering children’s lobe piercing can be so important to a studio
50 END-NOTE INSPO
Far from seeing unexpected changes as setbacks, Amy Willis of Curated Piercing in Surrey has worked hard to embrace each one as an opportunity
On 10 May, Dawn McCormack and her fiancé Marcello Aquilini officially opened Anatomy Arts, their own private, fully disposable studio in Bicester.
“We have worked towards this for many years,” says Dawn, “and after emigrating from Ireland we’ve finally made our dreams into our everyday reality.”
The studio’s vibe is fresh and clinical, with a colour scheme of champagne, sage green and gold tones running throughout. All of the jewellery is UKAPP and APP compliant, with permanent jewellery also available. Both offering the same range of piercing services, including large gauge, genital work and cheek piercings, the couple say it’s a bonus to be able to provide a
choice of male or female piercer to clients who may have a preference.
“We work by appointment only, which has been wonderful so far, knowing exactly what we’re doing each day – and now 75% of our clientele are returning customers,” Dawn enthuses, also admitting to “thoroughly enjoying having nobody walking in asking for tattoo quotes!”.
On the opening day, Dawn and Marcello kept the doors open to all so that even those who didn’t want to be pierced on the day could pop in for a look around – and they were fully booked from 10am until 6pm!
“After all of the late nights spent painting and scrambling to put furniture together; attempting to put a decal on our window (and failing) before then hiring a contractor to do it for us like we should have done at the start; and the days it took to set up our website, booking system and inventory, it’s so fulfilling to see the final product come to life – and to watch our clients’ reactions as they walk in.
“If you’re in or around Oxfordshire, do stop by – we’d love to show you our business baby Anatomy Arts!”
@anatomyartspiercing
Kitty Hillier has opened the doors to her very own piercing space, based inside Castle Ink Tattoo Studio in Conwy, Wales.
Joining her partner, Nick, who owns the studio, and four other tattoo artists, she’s excited to begin working alongside the Castle Ink team.
“I absolutely love being in Conwy, it’s such a gorgeous little town,” she says. “The shop is based inside the castle walls and I love seeing the history every day.
“I live and breathe everything about body piercing and the most important thing to me is providing high-quality, safe piercings and an inclusive experience for all my clients.”
@piercedbykitty
“I did my first ever large gauge piercing and I’m so proud of how it came out!”
Amanda
Nicholls @piercing_by_amanda
Got your angles bang on? Completed a winning curation? Celebrating your first septum? Finally used that piece you’d been salivating over? Send a photo (at full, original size), name and Instagram handle to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk and you could feature in an upcoming edition of the magazine!
Piercer and suspension facilitator
Aiko Hosten has published a new book, reflecting his biggest passions of body art and suspension.
Blending photography and text, Beauty in Pain is a visual and emotional archive of the ‘rituals’, the transformations and the community behind hooks.
“I felt a growing need to share not just the aesthetics of what we do, but also the heart,”
Aiko explains. “Through poetry, reflection and images, Beauty in Pain invites its readers to look past the hooks and into the spirit of the act.”
The book is also about challenging perceptions. “Too often our wider culture sees
suspension as self-harm or shock value,” he continues. “I wanted to create something that reveals its true nature: a ‘ritual’ of control, surrender, empowerment and connection. For many of us, it’s healing; it’s home.”
Functioning as a tribute to the trust and quiet moments shared with those who allowed him to witness and document powerful moments in time, Aiko says the project wouldn’t exist without the people whose suspensions he facilitated. “Nor without the global suspension community,” he adds, “who continue to inspire, innovate and hold space for each other.
“If this book does one thing, I hope it helps people see the humanity and the beauty in what we do.”
Visit burningmoonbodyart.be to find out more.
Paddy Kielty of BodyAlter in Worksop remembers “the beast of the office, Big Chonky”.
Name: Hera (Le Chonk, Big Chonky)
Best pals for: 11 years
Fave treat: Chicken wings by the dozen Best quality: Her peaceful, authoritative presence Happiest place: Wherever there was a child to look after and an entry to guard
If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
WINNER ANNOUNCED IN THE SOS BEAUTY AWARDS
Ben England, Director and resident piercer at The Piercing District Ltd in Taunton, Somerset, has scooped Body Piercer of the Year at the 2025 SOS Beauty Awards.
Announced at a glittering awards evening held in May at the Hilton Deansgate Hotel in Manchester, more than 300 beauty industry professionals were in attendance.
“While I do not need awards to love what I do, since I hope that the passion I have for my craft shows regardless, it’s amazing to have this recognition,” says Ben.
“The timing could not have been better either, as we have just revamped our studio – and the award now takes pride of place for all to see!”
@thepiercingdistrict
Here’s the adorable sidekick of Beckie Crouzieres from Gold Point Piercing in Orpington
Name: Peppa
Age: 14
Fave treat: Bacon swirls
Best quality: Her cheeky face
Trademark dick move: Demanding a treat every time she steps a paw in the garden
If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp -end.co.uk
Andre Fernandes and his partner (and wife) Tatiana Rodrigues have opened a second location for their renowned Millennium Piercing & Co in Brazil, designed to offer a unique experience that reflects the couple’s dedication to quality and innovation in the body piercing industry.
The new studio is located in the upscale Anália Franco neighbourhood, in the eastern region of São Paulo. Combining organic design elements with a luxurious aesthetic, it features a fully accessible room, ensuring comfort, inclusion and privacy.
As for jewellery, clients will be treated to such brands as BVLA, Buddha Jewelry, Sacred Symbols and Kiwi Jewelry. In addition, through a special partnership with Arwen, the studio offers an exclusive line of gold jewellery set with natural Brazilian gemstones. Throughout the space, visitors can also admire pieces from Andre Fernandes’s personal archive. A tribute to his career and the global piercing community, the collection includes autographed books by Fakir Musafar, custom jewellery made by Blake Nomad, a starshaped pin from Danny Yerna, action figures from Matias Tafel, and many other meaningful items.
@millenniumpiercing
Tickets for the next Wee Scottish Piercing Expo are now available! Taking place from 2 to 3 March 2026 at The Old Dr Bells Baths in Edinburgh, you can find out more and keep up with the latest news @theweescottishpiercingexpo
As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So if, for example, your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.
There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!
Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).
Always a focal point of the industry calendar, this year’s edition of the APP Conference and Expo in Las Vegas (22-27 June) was a particularly special one, marking the 50th anniversary of the modern body piercing movement: the launch, in November 1975, of iconic body piercing studio Gauntlet.
The theme was brought to life through the use of Gauntlet’s instantly recognisable purple brand colour, celebratory signage, merch and an immersive ‘Legacy of Gauntlet’ Body Piercing Archive exhibit, twice the size of those at previous events, for which in-depth tours were also held by those closest to the Gauntlet story.
Founder of Gauntlet, Jim Ward, was not only there to welcome attendees at the
gate as a life-size image –he was actually there in person, along with his husband Drew (current Gauntlet Enterprises owner and former Gauntlet piercer), to host many of those exhibition tours – all, unsurprisingly, full to capacity.
In addition, Drew held a fascinating class sharing his own perspective on the Gauntlet years and life with Jim – with plenty of hilarious anecdotes. A talented photographer, he also showed examples of images he’d captured along the way (some of which you will have seen in the previous issue of The Sharp End).
Elsewhere, a wealth of education was to be absorbed across multiple sessions each day, courtesy of such expert speakers as April Thomas and Crystal Sims, who spoke on gemstones, Kenneth Crespo and Lani Soleil who gave advice on piercing kids, Alexandra Trimble who discussed front-of-house, and the UK’s very own Lola Slider who broached the subject of transitioning to better jewellery.
Meanwhile, the expo floor was buzzing with energy and inspiration, as crowds flocked to view exhibitors’ wares and make those all-essential conference purchases. Stand-out booths included Jewelry This Way, Norvoch, People’s Jewelry, Modern Mood, Buddha Jewelry, Tawapa, Industrial Strength and Neometal (the list goes on) – and especially the private showrooms of Leroi and BVLA – the latter
boasting its very own disco, with Kerry on the decks!
With evening socials including a range of alcohol-free themed mixers and a grand closing party, the conference also bade a fond farewell to outgoing board members Becky Dill, Cale Belford, Cassi Lopez and Alana Paris, whilst welcoming incoming board member Sala and announcing Brian Skellie as the association’s new President, with Pablo Perelmuter becoming Vice President.
The dates for next year’s APP Annual Conference and Expo are already confirmed, so pop 7-12 June 2026 in your diary and keep an eye on socials for further announcements!
@safepiercing
The new RSPH Level 2 Award in Infection Prevention and Control for Special Procedures Practitioners is not just for those in Wales!
FOR YOUR DIARY
UKAPP CONFERENCE 2025 28-30 September
Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk
THE WEE SCOTTISH PIERCING EXPO 2026
2-3 March 2026
The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh @theweescottishpiercingexpo
CONGRESO INTERNACIONAL DE PERFORADORES PROFESIONALES PCP
24-26 July
1
Medellin, Colombia @pcpcol
BMXNET
14-17 August Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org
GEP CONGRESS 31 August-4 September
São Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing
PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS POLAND CONFERENCE 12-14 September
Gdańsk, Poland @professionalpiercerspoland
ANTWERP SUSCON 19-21 September
Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be
APA RITORNO ALLE ORIGINI 5-7 October
Pescara, Italy @ritornoalleorigini.apa
JPPA 2025 ASIAN PIERCERS MEETUP 14-16 October
Tokyo, Japan @safepiercingjapan
APP BENELUX CONFERENCE 20-22 October
Veldhoven, The Netherlands @appbenelux
AUPP ANNUAL PROFESSIONAL PIERCERS CONFERENCE 20-22 October
Sydney, Australia 24 October
Auckland, New Zealand @safepiercing_aupp
CONGRESO INTERNACIONAL DE PERFORADORES PROFESIONALES LBP 3-6 November
Guanajuato, Mexico @lbpasociacion
OVER TO YOU
If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
buddhajewelrywholesale.co.uk
This year’s UKAPP Conference promises to be a piercer party to remember, as the organisation celebrates its 10th birthday.
President BECKY CROSSAN tells us more
This year marks the 10th anniversary of the UKAPP! We’ll be celebrating at our annual conference from 28 to 30 September at the Albert Hall in Nottingham, where there’ll be a packed class programme, an extensive range of amazing vendors on our expo floor, and plenty of opportunities to meet and network with your industry peers!
As with every year, the event will have a series of ‘core’ subjects exploring things like bevel theory, hygiene practices and jewellery quality. There will also be specific techniquefocused classes, including daith, bridge, industrial and septum.
This year we are particularly excited to have Becky Dill instructing for us! She will be teaching two technique classes – VCH piercings and nipple piercings – and a class on bedside manner and consultation considerations for genital piercings. Becky’s genital piercing classes have proved incredibly popular at the APP Conference in recent years, and we can’t wait to welcome her to the UK.
We also have some highly acclaimed returning international speakers, including Ryan Ouellette, Brian Skellie and Pablo Perelmuter among many others, and lots of returning home-grown speakers such as Lola Slider, Helen Houghton and Olly Todd. Ryan and Lola will also be
ABOUT THE UKAPP
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.
The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards and health and safety criteria, such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens. The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.
For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk
bringing the Piercing Wizard Podcast Live to the event for the second year running.
In addition to this, there will be a range of classes suitable for counter staff and other non-piercing studio professionals, including sessions on curation, spreadsheets, self-care and Statim maintenance.
A milestone like the organisation’s 10th anniversary reminds us of the importance of celebrating our history. With this in mind, we’ll be having an incredible range of piercing history and anthropology classes. We are very excited to have Paul King returning as an instructor, as well as UK tattoo historian Dr Matt Lodder. In addition, we’ll have Mac McCarthy telling his story through an interview with UK piercer and instructor, Jo Webster; and Gemma Suter and I will be facilitating a UK women’s piercing panel, which will look at women in the UK piercing industry from the past and then hear from a panel of modern-day peers.
In response to requests from the wider piercing community, this year we will be bringing in an outside expert for a very important subject. Safeline will be in attendance and will be presenting a class on ‘Preventing and Responding to Sexual Harassment in the Workplace’. Safeline is a specialist sexual abuse charity and all of the money that the organisation has paid for the class goes back into the
day-to-day running of the charity, allowing them to offer more education, as well as support to young people in schools. On top of this, as an organisation accessing the training, the UKAPP will become part of Safeline’s Stakeholder Group, which provides ongoing support and advice.
The UKAPP prides itself in bringing a range of the world’s best vendors to the UK, and this year is no different! Returning favourites include Junipurr Jewelry, LeRoi Fine Jewelry, People’s Jewelry, Industrial Strength UK, Buddha Jewelry, Anatometal UK and many more. There will also be some brand-new vendors coming to the conference for the first time, including Tawapa, Pi.e.r.c.e.d, BooksOpen and Norvoch. We can’t wait to welcome these companies to our event for the first time.
In previous years, we have had the UKAPP-funded LGBTQIA+ Scholarship, the People’s Jewelryfunded Nicole Holmes Scholarship, and the LeRoi Fine Jewelry-funded Rising Stars Scholarship. These scholarships will be going ahead again for our 2025 event and recipients have already been announced. However, this year also sees the organisation introduce a brand-new scholarship! Junipurr Jewelry has very kindly funded a POC Scholarship for this year and the recipient has been confirmed. Big thanks to Junipurr, People’s
“THE UKAPP PRIDES ITSELF IN BRINGING A RANGE OF THE WORLD’S BEST VENDORS TO THE UK, AND THIS YEAR IS NO DIFFERENT!”
Jewelry and LeRoi for their support of these very important learning opportunities. Scholarships make the event accessible for piercers who otherwise wouldn’t be able to attend and we’re so excited to be able to grow this offering.
The event has grown considerably from its humble beginnings in the basement of a Birmingham bar and this is by no means everything that the 2025 event will bring. It’s been such an incredible journey and we can’t wait to see what the next 10 years have in store. Will we see you there? At the time of writing, tickets are still available!
@safepiercing_uk
Tickets for the 2025 UKAPP Conference are available at ukapp.org.uk
Please note that this event is for piercers, apprentices and other industry professionals only.
For the past year and a half, I’ve been guest piercing full-time. I’m so excited to share some of what I’ve learned along the way, in the hope that this information helps you either to build more traction in your guest spots or to break into guesting for the first time. Most of my experience is from working in the US, but I think a lot of it can be applied no matter where you are.
A few months ago, we asked the community to submit their questions about guesting via social media, so let’s dive into some of the most important topics first!
1. How to properly approach studios Everyone’s experience will be a little different, but if you’re newer to guesting, I’d recommend starting with studios where you already know someone. Trust is such a big factor when it comes to a studio owner letting someone in to work with their clients. If you already have a connection there, it makes it much easier to build that trust, both personally and professionally.
If you’re reaching out to a new studio, be as professional as possible right from the start. Send a clear, well-written email with a brief resume, examples of your work
and some references. Explain why you’re interested in working with them – whether it’s the other piercers, the shop’s vibe or the history of the studio, for instance. Being upfront and clear from the start goes a long way.
2. Top five things to watch out for while guest piercing
• Clarify everything upfront: Make sure you and the studio are on the same page about expectations, your responsibilities and compensation. It saves a lot of headaches later on.
• Under-pack: Studios often have merch to give away, or you might buy some souvenirs, so it’s always good to pack light.
Be sure to thoroughly look into the rules and requirements for working abroad if you want to explore the idea of guesting in another country.
Even working at a studio within your own country may still involve applying for certain permits or qualifications, so do your research first. “The cost of any visas or permits is definitely something to keep in mind when discussing pay and contract details with the studio – maybe even include it in your guest proposal,” Carlos advises.
• Know wh ere to find essentials: Find out where the nearest laundrette or coffee shop is near your accommodation. Trust me, it’ll make your life so much easier!
• Pre pare for travel disruption: I always try to arrive a day early to account for any delays. Whether it’s a cancelled flight or train, it’s nice to have a buffer.
• H ave an emergency fund: Life happens, and things don’t always go according to plan. So, it’s always a good idea to have some extra money set aside just in case.
3. What’s the ideal length for a guest spot?
The ideal guest spot length can vary depending on your situation. If you’re working at a studio and want to test the water without taking too much time off from your regular duties, a one-week guest spot can work great. But if you’re guesting full-time, there are benefits to both short and longer stays. Personally, I like to do three-to-four-week guest spots. It gives me time to really connect with the studio and its clients. I can build trust with the team, and it gives clients a chance to come back for follow-ups. On the other hand, one-to-two-week spots are great for keeping your schedule full, especially if you’re visiting places you’ve been before and have friends there.
4. How do you approach accommodation?
Accommodation situations can vary, but these are the three most common scenarios:
• You pay for accommodation: If this is the case, make sure you’re calculating whether the pay you’re getting will cover your lodgings. It’s often cheaper to stay with friends if you can, but you also have to consider how much time and money you’ll spend commuting to the studio each day.
• Th e studio provides accommodation: Some shops will offer you a guest room, a spare apartment, or let you crash on the owner’s couch. It might be a bit less private, but it’s a great way to save money.
• Reimbursement: Some studios will reimburse you for accommodation costs. Always clarify how much they’ll reimburse, when you’ll get paid, and if there are any limits. It’s a good idea to know this upfront, especially if you’ll need to cover the costs before being reimbursed.
Again, communication is key here. Make sure all these details are worked out before you arrive.
5. Personal insights and best practice
From my own experience, the most important things
you can bring to a guest spot are honesty, openness, trustworthiness, friendliness and professionalism. Think of it like being a guest in someone’s home – you’re being allowed to work in a studio that someone has worked hard to build, and their clients are like family to them. It’s a huge honour.
Be open about what you can and can’t do. If there are piercings you don’t perform or ones you need help with, let the studio know. This isn’t an apprenticeship, so it’s not the place to practise new
Carlos Duenas is a professional piercer of 10-plus years, based in Salt Lake City, Utah, US.
He started his apprenticeship in Buffalo, New York, at CowPok Piercing Gallery, before making his way back west to Salt Lake City where he spent several years working at Iris Piercing Studio. For the past year and a half, Carlos has been guest piercing full-time.
techniques. It’s a chance to establish your boundaries and make sure you and the studio are on the same page.
Being trustworthy and friendly with clients is essential. How you interact with them can leave a lasting impression. If they come back for follow-ups or check-ups, they’ll talk to the studio about how you performed, and positive feedback can help open doors for future guesting opportunities.
Finally, professionalism doesn’t mean being serious all the time. It’s about handling things in a professional way when you need to. Whether it’s dealing with a difficult client or handling a tricky situation, being able to keep your cool while still having fun with clients and coworkers will get you far.
Guesting is a fantastic way to expand your network, grow your skills and connect with other professionals. But it’s important to approach it with the right mindset – respectful, open and professional. By building strong relationships and always staying true to yourself, you’ll not only succeed as a guest piercer but also leave a lasting impression that keeps you coming back.
I hope these tips help you on your journey, whether you’re just starting out or looking to level up your guest spots!
@bboygage
Researching piercing history, at its best, is like a treasure hunt. You start with one single piece of information and then have to follow the clues (often hidden in a range of places) to finally reach your goal.
Years ago, Paul King stumbled upon the name of a piercer, P Booth, who had written an article about piercing for UK-
based adult magazine Search (Vol 3 No 10, 1973). P Booth began the article by talking about piercings in the past, before moving on to the present day (then, 1973) where he discussed not only ear piercings but other ear placements, nostril piercings and nipples.
Any experienced professional piercer would quickly realise that there was too much detail and credibility within the writing for it to be simply fantasy, especially from his descriptions of a ‘French type of ear piercer’, which we know to have been commonly used at the time.
Following this, Paul found a letter turned into an article in a later issue of Search magazine (Vol 5 No 1, 1975) where ‘PMSB’, presumably P Booth, was replying to a reader’s letter about the previous article in a double-page spread entitled, ‘Piercings: Do they turn you on?’. Here, he talked in more detail about nipple and genital piercings and about his work as a travelling piercer, performing piercings in clients’ homes. The letter was signed as ‘PMSB, Glow.’. This ‘Glow’ proved important later, as it is an uncommon, but not
BECKY CROSSAN reveals fascinating new findings about a UK piercer from the past, following research she’s been working on with Paul King for the Body Piercing Archive
unheard of, shortening of the English county of Gloucestershire.
Through looking for more information on P Booth, Paul found another UK piercer called Martin Spencer, who also contributed quite a lot of correspondence to UK fetish magazines around the time and advertised his services as a piercer. One of the most noteworthy articles was from Men Only (Vol 40 No 7, 1975).
In this article, columnist ‘Ann Summers’ talked about her meeting with Martin Spencer, during which Martin discussed his work as a professional piercer of 30 years: “According to Mr. Spencer, the order of preference, anatomically speaking, for piercings, is: nipples, inner vaginal labia, outer vaginal labia, inner and outer vaginal labia, multiple ear piercings, nostrils, between the fingers, navels, cheeks, tongues and lower lips, although the last three are extremely rare.”
This fabulous insight tied in with a lot of what we already know about the past popularity of piercings that can be hidden beneath clothes.
The article ended with information on how ladies who wished to be pierced could contact Martin Spencer at ‘Hartpury, Chedworth, Nr Cheltenham, Glos.’ – a vital piece of the puzzle in uncovering this hidden figure.
Given their likely similar geographic locations and the fact that both P Booth and Martin Spencer were writing to similar adult magazines in the 1970s, it seemed highly likely they might have been aware of each other’s work. Therefore, finding one might be the key to finding the other. Little did we know in the early days of this research just how linked they would prove to be!
Homing in
Searching through Gloucestershire telephone directories from the late 1970s and early 1980s, I found Martin Spencer listed as being at Hartpury Cottage, Chedworth, Fossebridge, Gloucestershire between 1977 and 1984. However, further research seemed to be leading to a dead end.
I decided to channel that frustration into revisiting P Booth to redirect my focus. Having had my only success
1-3. THE DISCOVERY THAT BEGAN IT ALL: P BOOTH’S ARTICLE IN SEARCH VOL 3 NO 10, P40-43
4. PFIQ , NO 18, 1983, WHICH MARTIN SPENCER WROTE IN TO
5. MEN ONLY VOL 40 NO 7, 1975, P79, WHERE COLUMNIST ANN SUMMERS WRITES ABOUT A MEETING WITH MARTIN SPENCER
for Martin Spencer in Gloucestershire phone books, I began hunting through them for P Booth.
To my excitement, a ‘Peter M. S. Booth’ showed up for multiple years… and his address was none other than Hartpury Cottage, Chedworth, Fossebridge, Gloucestershire!
It wasn’t until I followed the thread of Peter M S Booth further and found a census entry from 1921 listing a ‘Peter Martin Spencer Booth’ at two months old, and a Wills and Probate notification for a Peter Martin Spencer Booth, that the mystery was uncovered – P Booth and Martin Spencer were indeed the same man and the same UK piercer of 30 years’ experience in 1975!
Our historical body piercer, Peter Martin Spencer Booth, was born in 1921 in Warwickshire. His father, Henry Martin Booth, was a motor engineer’s clerk and his mother, Lilia Mary Cravers Booth, was a housewife. In 1942, he married Margaret H Walker and they went on to have four sons: Christopher, Julian, Patrick and Alistair.
If his statement about 30 years of piercing experience in 1975 is correct, he would have started piercing in 1945 – meaning that he was professionally piercing 30 years before Alan Oversby, aka Mr Sebastian!
Based on the records we can find, Peter lived in Hartpury Cottage from at least 1946 until his death on 10 August 1989, aged 68. This death date might explain why he didn’t seem to engage with many of the rising British piercing magazines of the late 80s/early 90s; however, he did write on at least one occasion to an earlier PFIQ magazine (No 18) and was a PFIQ subscriber and member of Gauntlet ‘Pin Pals’.
Jim Ward said in that issue: “Editor’s note: Martin Spencer is well known in English piercing circles as a reputable piercer who works primarily on women.” Jim was asked about Martin Spencer, but unfortunately he had no further recollection. To date, nothing more has been found about Martin Spencer in the Gauntlet archive.
We often find that piercing pioneers from the past were corresponding with each other, despite being in different locations around the world, and Paul also stumbled upon a mention of ‘P Booth’ in the Fakir Musafar archive.
On 25 June 1964, Roland Loomis (ie Fakir before he was using the name ‘Fakir Musafar’) received a letter from JG Sheppard who talked
about corresponding with William and Ethel Granger and “with a Peter Booth, who may also be known to you”. Whilst there is no surviving correspondence to let us know whether Roland Loomis and Peter Booth were acquainted, the fact that Booth’s name was mentioned in this letter shows the field of influence he had amongst piercing pioneers and enthusiasts of the time.
So, what type of piercings was he offering? Ear piercings, certainly; and in both his 1973 Search article and his 1975 Men Only article under the name Martin Spencer, he talked about the device that he used for ear piercings: “I myself use a French type of ear piercer. The French always having specialised in ear piercing they have it to a fine art; this consists of a pair of substantial tweezers with a needle and metal sheath on one arm and a corresponding hole in the other, the point of the needle is put on the spot to be pierced and with a firm grip the tweezers are pinched
together and the job’s done, leaving the metal sheath in the ear, as in the method described before. This type of ear piercer is ideal for any type of piercing. It is easy to sterilise as the whole thing can be boiled and there is no part hidden.” Search (Vol 3 No 10, 1973)
The French forceps are mentioned again in Men Only: “Martin Spencer mentioned that in his experience it was rare indeed for any of his clients to have any kind of problem after piercing, due mainly, he believed, to the fact that his French piercing forceps could be sterilised properly. It is his opinion that problems of infection can occur from piercings undertaken with other kinds of piercers [piercing devices].”
Men Only (Vol 40 No 7, 1975)
The French forceps were particularly of interest to us. Whilst it could perhaps be a coincidence, a very similar type of piercing tool is described in English Mechanic (Vol XLIX Jul 26 p460 No 68191, 1889).
A correspondent named ‘Constance’ wrote to the publication about her
experiences of having her nipples pierced in Paris. She described the piercing implement as follows:
“Madame B. has invented an instrument for the purpose of ensuring that the perforation is made in the proper direction through the nipple, and without any chance of failure. It is something like a sugar tongs in form, but instead of the spoons at the ends of the legs there is a pair of small tubes about 1in. long, and in a straight line with each other, so that when the nipple is grasped between the inner ends of the tubes by means of a screw in the handle, a piercer can be passed through the whole without any chance of deviating from its proper course.
“She then removed the tongs, leaving the piercer still sticking through the nipple, the point of a ring being then put into a hollow in the base of the piercer, the ring was passed through the nipple and closed.”
Whilst there are some differences between Constance’s description and Martin Spencer’s, it’s important to remember that Constance’s account was from the perspective of the
person being pierced who had no prior knowledge of piercing, whereas Spencer’s description was from a piercer’s perspective.
Indeed, a letter to PFIQ (No 4, 1978) provided us with a description of the piercing device that Martin Spencer used from the perspective of a British piercing enthusiast. It said: “He uses a ‘French’ instrument, like tweezers with a permanent needle on one arm which is fitted with a sleeve. When pierced, the needle slides out, leaving the sleeve in the piercing so that the ring is put through in a clear tube. Then the sleeve is slipped out leaving the ring.”
The fact that this description draws parallels with both Constance’s account and Martin Spencer’s articles goes some way to further emphasise the similarity.
Although it’s impossible to make a definitive statement, it’s likely that Peter Martin Spencer Booth’s French forceps may have been inspired by the same design that was used in
Paris in 1889 – a variation of the older style of forceps that had evolved through the decades.
As research continues, we are sure more mysteries will be unravelled, but it’s possible that the knowledge of this style of piercing implement was being passed down for at least 80 years! Although the history of the French forceps had been forgotten, similar forceps are still used today. When introduced to the market, they were mistakenly thought to be a new innovation. From the 1990s, these were manufactured in steel, and more recently as disposables in plastic.
The piercer at work
There is evidence that Martin Spencer was performing ear piercings in multiple placements, besides the lobes. In the 1973 Search article, he said: “For effect some people like to wear a small stud in the flap of the ear halfway up near the head. Another way is to pierce the shell of the ear inside just above the lobe and wear a
large gold ring through it.” Search (Vol 3 No 10, 1973). It’s fair to assume that the piercings he was describing here were the tragus and the conch.
He also talked about nostril and septum piercings, however it’s clear that his focus is on nipple and genital piercings. Indeed, in Forum, a UK men’s magazine, he advertised himself multiple times in 1978 as focusing on ‘erotic’ piercings. The adverts stated: “Piercings: don’t take unnecessary risks, have all your erotic piercings executed by a RECOMMENDED specialist. 30 years’ experience. Erotic jewellery supplied. Martin Spencer 3761.” Forum (Vol 11 No 2 & Vol 11 No 5, 1978).
We also have evidence that he was working exclusively on female clients. The Men Only 1975 article states that, “if any gentlemen want their foreskins – or their penis heads, he assures me – pierced, he’ll put you in touch with a friend of his in North Wales who’ll oblige.” The name and information of this piercer in North Wales is currently unknown, but the search continues!
The Men Only (1975) article also gave us insight into his piercing prices at the
time. It said that for a labia or nipple piercing, the price was “whatever you want to pay for gold rings or studs you wear afterwards plus £5 piercing fee and his travel expenses and local accommodation if he needs to stay overnight”. This would be approximately a £38 ($30) piercing fee today.
A letter from ‘K & M.J.’ in PFIQ (No 4, 1978) gave some detail on the piercings that Martin Spencer had done in that year. The correspondents said: “Martin reported on his ‘this year’ total of about 100 nipples, 10 labia, 5 navels, noses, eyebrows, and of course, lots of ears and multis.” This is interesting for us because it tells us that the most popular piercings (outside of ear placements, which seem to be treated as an aside in this letter) were
nipple and genital piercings. It also tells us that based on these numbers, piercing was most likely not his full-time job.
It’s strange that although he wrote once to PFIQ himself in 1983 and was mentioned in the letter above in 1978, after his death in 1989 there was no mention in the magazine of his passing. Whilst it’s not possible to give a definitive answer as to why that might be, it’s likely that nobody who wrote regularly to the magazine was initially aware of his death. Perhaps this was in part due to his use of his full name, Peter Martin Spencer Booth, in some circles and the shortened version, Martin Spencer, in others.
As always, uncovering piercing ancestors from the past is a process and we hope that with time we will learn more about this British piercing pioneer and his life. In the meantime, these discoveries tell us a great deal about the piercing landscape in the UK at that time.
So often quoted as a key or even sole inspiration for piercers’ careers, pioneering 90s body mod ezine BME is back, thanks to the daughter of its founder, NEFARIOUS LARRATT , her dedicated team, and the power of community
FOR THOSE WHO DON’T ALREADY KNOW ABOUT BME, CAN YOU BRIEFLY DESCRIBE HOW IT STARTED, WHAT IT ONCE WAS, AND WHY IT TOOK A HIATUS?
BME started in 1994 as an idea of my dad Shannon Larratt’s: an online community where people could openly discuss body modification which grew into a community that spanned the entire globe.
My mother, Rachel, joined BME as a member, but was quickly recognised for her talent. She joined my dad in working on BME, taking it to the next level through community organising of scheduled events with more structure, business accounting, outreach and offloading a tonne of work from Shannon so that he could focus on his vision for BME. It’s no coincidence that BME exploded after they combined their efforts. He was a creative genius and she had the organisational and management skills to turn BME into a huge success.
The company went into hiatus shortly after their divorce. With conflicting sides and opinions, BME was very unstable, almost as
if BME itself was divorcing, and as new social media sites were coming up, they took over in terms of popularity. BME then began fading away. Everyone has their speculations, but it’s so far in the past now that it does no good to dive back into that. We are very excited to be back and building a new BME.
IT WAS PRETTY REVOLUTIONARY IN THOSE EARLIER DAYS OF THE INTERNET, RIGHT?
Absolutely! I am a little biased because I think my parents were the two coolest people to exist, but it is undeniable that they changed the world as we know it. BME influenced the world through its creation of one of the original forms of social media, centred around body modification.
Within the first few months of being founded in 1994 it rose to be one of the top 25 most viewed
sites on the internet. It was focused on education and safety, where people could show off their mods and exactly how they were performed. In 2000 IAM was launched, which was the messaging/blog side of the website, forging friendships, relationships and connections that outlasted even the site. BME deserves a place in the history books for pushing mods into the mainstream and creating a digital archive on body modifications.
WHAT ARE YOUR MEMORIES OF BME AND WHAT IT MEANT TO YOUR DAD AND MUM?
As a small child, I was not on BME of course, although I did know vaguely what it was. My upbringing was less about the website and more about the community. I was at so many of the parties. BME was a very friendly environment, so people who were on the site were always coming round my parents’ house as well. I’ve been surrounded by the modded world since birth, and I think the idea my parents wanted to foster is a world where everyone sees modification with the curiosity and acceptance that I grew up feeling.
WHAT HAVE YOUR INTERACTIONS WITH BME MEMBERS AND FANS TAUGHT YOU ABOUT ITS ROLE IN THE GLOBAL COMMUNITY?
It’s funny, everyone I have talked to has told me almost the exact same story. They heard about it from a friend, searched it up, gasped, and the more they looked the more they felt something unlocking inside themselves. What I take from this is that BME told people it was ok to feel this way. It gave them the opportunity to accept themselves; potentially thoughts they’d been repressing. In the global community, at least back then, I believe it served as a safe place for people to not feel judged for any of the thoughts they may have had. I find it inspiring, and with every story I have more confidence in our rebuilding of BME.
WHAT WERE THE CATALYSTS THAT LED YOU TO BRING IT BACK TO ITS FULL GLORY?
When my mom died in 2022, I felt like I had to. She had tried a few times throughout the past decade, but was hit with literal hurricanes stopping her. Maybe it was also because so many people from the BME community reached out to me and said how my mother shaped their lives through BME. I feel like it’s my responsibility to try and build a new BME and community where people can be themselves again without the need to be censored.
WITH SO MANY CHANGES IN THE BODY MOD LANDSCAPE SINCE BME’S GOALS WERE ORIGINALLY DEFINED, HOW DO YOU THINK BME IS GOING TO LOOK AND FUNCTION NOW COMPARED TO THE EARLY 2000S?
My father didn’t believe in censorship or conforming to others. Our ideology is that people should be able to have autonomy over their body in the pursuit of becoming their ideal self. We do have to obey the law to avoid being shut down, but BME will still be an open advocate for education and safety in all aspects of body modification. Should there be an unjust law to change, I do hope BME can be at the forefront of making that change. BME was and always will be a hub for personal expression and a community of shared interests.
“MY FATHER DIDN’T BELIEVE IN CENSORSHIP OR CONFORMING TO OTHERS. OUR IDEOLOGY IS THAT PEOPLE SHOULD BE ABLE TO HAVE AUTONOMY OVER THEIR BODY IN THE PURSUIT OF BECOMING THEIR IDEAL SELF”
TELL US WHAT BME IS GOING TO LOOK LIKE FOR THIS NEW CHAPTER IN ITS STORY. WHAT CAN OLD HEADS LOOK FORWARD TO AND WHAT CAN NEWCOMERS EXPECT?
Something I know ‘old heads’ will be excited about is the unveiling of our recovered archives. We are still figuring out the structure of the galleries but once they are formed, people will be able to see some of the old photos that they admired and were inspired or shocked by. BME was great in the past, and we want to emulate everything it stood for. We want to highlight the culture of body modification with quality information and content, from pictures to text, videos and more.
Like always, BME is built by its users. Old heads’ memories help us preserve our history and share it with newcomers who missed out. And everyone is part of creating the culture and community that’s been so dearly missed.
I try not to dwell on ideas like that because he’s not here and I really can’t know. Right now, I’m supported by Jon who lived and worked on BME alongside my father for years, and Erik who is a longtime BME member with a background in filmmaking and a business savvy we desperately need right now. We’re adding new contributors to help with every aspect of the site and business as well.
Most of all, I think my father would be proud of me for taking up the mantle, knowing that I have excellent guidance from Jon and Erik, but also of how much the community is coming up to support us. The body modification community has been long reminiscing about BME and the old days, and while I will never fill my dad’s role, I can keep his work going.
As the school holidays begin, OLLY TODD presents his top five reasons for offering children’s lobe piercings
With the summer season upon us, let’s look at five reasons why I believe that offering piercings for children is a must for you and your business.
First though, let’s address the potential issues you will need to consider before offering this service to your clients…
• Firstly, are you insured to offer children’s piercings, and does your current policy have an age limitation on the piercings you wish to offer to children? A quick check of your documents or call to your insurance provider will solve this.
• Are there any restrictions set by your local authority? Again, an email or call to them will usually give you the answer.
• Is this right for your business? Now, I argue that it is a benefit for 90% of businesses out there, but there are going to be some for which it just isn’t the right fit unfortunately.
• It may not be up to you – it could be that the business doesn’t belong to you, and the owner isn’t open to it. If this is the case, show them this article and, who knows, it could help change their mind!
Right, enough of the boring stuff, let’s look at the five brilliant reasons you should offer, or at least consider offering, children’s piercing services in your studio.
• Safety: Top of the list has to be safety – if this isn’t a service you are offering then who is in your area? Are you leaving your clients at the mercy of a gun-wielding high-street retailer or even a kit bought online?
We all want to provide the safest services to our clients so why should this differ for younger clients? By being able to offer this service as a professional studio, adhering to the latest safety guidance and procedures, you are promoting a safer and better way to do things in your local area.
• Reputation: In turn, your reputation will grow when you offer these quality piercing services to younger clientele and you will quickly become the place to go for that better and safer experience. This opens up an endless network of other parents looking for somewhere to take their child for their first piercings.
Don’t underestimate the value of school and local networking groups on social media – they’re are a brilliant way to share information and get recommendations from clients regarding these services!
• Brand building: Offering piercings to a younger clientele can elevate you and your business as a brand and help to strengthen the reach and influence your business has in the local community. If it’s your business that’s known for providing a safe and positive experience for younger clients, this will get noticed.
• Longevity: Money talks and is a huge pull (especially for owners, if it’s not your business) when looking into offering piercing services for children. Not only are you attracting clients at a younger age, meaning they have a greater lifetime
Based at Factotum in Norwich, Olly Todd has been piercing since around 2008.
A regular speaker at the UKAPP Conference and Piercer Trade Show, as well as teaching at BMXnet in Germany and a host of private studio events, his educational work has
value to your business, but with some stock planning you can upsell from those classic titanium pieces to a pair of opal or gem attachments, increasing the overall spend of your clients.
• Fulfilment: The benefits go beyond the practical ones as well – it’s super awesome to be a part of this experience for a child. This is the first time they are making the decision to get their ears pierced, and you are helping them to grow and mature by offering them a safe and positive space in which to achieve their goals.
Hopefully this has given you some things to think about if you don’t already offer piercing services to younger clients. Please do reach out if you’d like to know more about the benefits and joy of offering these services in your business or how to go about adding them.
@ollytoddpiercing
rapidly expanded since 2019. Having launched Cognition Training in 2021, he now delivers online and in-person seminars to body art professionals across the world, as well as the Level 2 Award in Infection, Prevention and Control and UK-specific blood-borne pathogen training for piercers.
I’ve been a piercer for seven years this June – I can’t quite believe it! I started piercing at a local tattoo studio due to nothing more than luck and timing. I had just been made redundant from my corporate event management role at the end of my maternity leave. I had a 10-month-old baby and my partner had moved out two months prior to the redundancy –needless to say it felt like the worst time of my life, personally, financially and professionally, all while having to adapt to being a mother.
My friend, a tattooist, mentioned their studio needed a receptionist one day a week – perfect with my new baby. As time went on, an interest in becoming the resident piercer grew into my passion and helped me get through the rough time I was having. I was there for five years in the end; I still see the girls, and we have the most amazing friendships.
After having my second child, I then came back from maternity to my own business within another venue, where I’ve been for the past two years.
One of the things I’m most proud of is the ability to embrace change over the years. I’ve had a few big changes, but each one has brought such positive growth for me as a piercer and for my business. Most recently, the venue I’ve been working at made the decision
But I have focused on the good and stayed optimistic. Because of this I’ve just opened my very own private studio, three years earlier than I had expected! I explored a lot of options in anticipation of the demolition, then one day, a property I had dreamed about for years became available. It’s big enough for me to have a private piercing room and a separate reception area – something I’ve wanted for so long.
Before you walk in, it has a front garden blooming with flowers to satisfy my love of gardening. Inside, it’s small enough that I don’t have to share the space to help financially (something that a lot of us are concerned about) and it was a blank canvas with nothing more than some stunning exposed brickwork. Now, it has dark wood flooring and a soft, warm atmosphere for my customers and I to enjoy. I can’t wait to have display cases full of beautiful jewellery ready to browse.
to demolish my studio, with no plans to accommodate me in the new set up. It’s rubbish, unexpected and out of my control. Initially, I felt terrified to be totally honest.
The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this is: change can be feared for so many reasons – the unknown is uncertain – but try not to see it as a block. Try to embrace it and see it as an opportunity the universe knows you’re ready for, even if it doesn’t feel like it. When you do, it can be truly magical.
@curatedpiercing
Far
from seeing unexpected changes as setbacks, AMY WILLIS of Curated Piercing in Horley, Surrey, has worked hard to embrace each one as an opportunity – and is now opening a private studio
