THE REAL DEAL
Denia has been itself for 2,000 years – and still doesn’t need to shout about it, being recognised by UNESCO for its history and cuisine
AS you pass the fleshpots of Benidorm and head north, you’ll feel the Spanish coastline exhale.
The dense clusters of high-rises of the Costa Blanca south, Murcia and Andalucia begin to thin, giving way to more inviting beaches. The air itself feels lighter, sleepier, and altogether more comfortable.
Then finally, as you approach the striking
By Dilip Kuner
Montgo mountain you arrive in Denia. Forget Javea to the south, Denia is THE Valencian coastal town that doesn’t need to shout to be heard; it simply isand has been for a very long time, for two millenia, in fact.
Romans laid the foundations here, before the Moors left an indelible mark, especially on the town’s silent sentinel: a sun-bleached, time-worn fortress.
The Castillo de Denia isn’t aiming for glossy tourist brochures. You won’t find a bustling gift shop in the castle, or flashy signs. Instead, you'll discover ancient stones, wild fig trees, and a quiet, dusty path from the heart of the town winding
up through fragrant pine and rosemary. Reach the top of the walls, and Denia truly unfolds beneath you, a jumble of terracotta rooftops framed by the turquoise sea on one side and the Montgo on the other.
Within the castle walls, the Museo Arqueologico offers a surprisingly intimate Continues overleaf
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slow, lunch is later, and the evening paseo – a ritual stroll before dinner – is taken seriously. You don’t need to do much to enjoy the town. Just walk. Stop for a beer. Browse the municipal market (Mercado Central) if you’re in town in the morning – the cheese and tomato stalls alone are worth the visit. From the marina, you can board a ferry to Mallorca, Ibiza or Formentera – the white boats of Balearia chug out daily during the warmer
But you don’t have to go far to get on the There are local boat trips to Cova Tallada, a partially submerged sea cave carved by hand centuries ago. It’s moody and beautiful, especially if you catch the light just right. The water here is sparklingly clear, and snorkelling is a no-brainer. But it’s also worth just sitting on a rock and taking it all in: the way the light bounces, the smell of salt and seaweed, and the lapping water
By P OO LVILLAS
IMPRESSIVE: Not the highest peak in Spain, but the Montgo dominates the area, while (left) the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora in Denia
Creative cuisine
And when it is time to eat, you are in the right place. Denia’s been recognised as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy since 2015, which usually signals inflated prices and overwrought menus. But here, it still feels local, even when it’s fancy.
If you want the high-end stuff, go to Quique Dacosta – a three-Michelin-star restaurant that’s about as close as you’ll get to experimental food without it turning into theatre. For something more grounded, head to Casa Federico, El Pegoli or El Farallo, where the seafood is local, the rice dishes are slowcooked, and the prawns – Denia’s own, fat and crimson – are served with nothing more than coarse salt and olive oil.
Tapas bars line Calle Loreto, many of them in old townhouses with shuttered windows and cool courtyards. Some are slicker than others, but even the most basic bar will serve up excellent calamari and a glass of cold. Denia has a few museums, none of them big, all of them personal. The Toy Museum is un-
expectedly moving – not because of the toys themselves (though the wooden trains and tin cars are charming), but because it speaks to a time when Denia was a working town, with factories and trade and hands-on craft.
Indeed, the town was famous throughout Spain for its hand-made toys.
The Museo Etnologico, tucked into a 19th-century house, gives similar vibes – a glimpse of what life was like when people made a living drying raisins, not renting out holiday flats.
Denia’s calendar is dotted with fiestas, many of them seemingly designed to set things on fire.
tivities have taken their place.
From August 13 to 16, the town hosts its famous Moros y Cristianos festival – more pageantry than historical reflection, with mock battles, processions and a lot of cannon fire. It’s loud, crowded and very, very Spanish. Denia also works well as a base. From here, it’s an easy drive to Javea, a slightly glossier coastal town with equally stunning beaches and decidedly more English menus. Or head inland to L’Albarda Gardens, a manicured take on Mediterranean horticulture, all symmetry and shade and trickling water.
If you want the best highend cuisine, go to Quique Dacosta
The fallas - where giant effigies are burned, as they do in nearby Valencia city - has already happened - but there is plenty to come.
Sant Joan, on the night of June 23/24, was traditionally a night of beach bonfires and mild chaos – locals jumping flames for luck and swimming after midnight.
The beach bonfires are no more - they were banned in 2022 - but a range of different ac-
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Altea, with its whitewashed houses and hilltop church, is about an hour away, and makes for a good day trip if you’re after something a bit more arty. It’s hard to say exactly why Denia works so well. It’s not showy. It doesn’t push itself on you. Maybe that’s the point. You can climb a mountain, swim in a cave, eat prawns so fresh they were twitching that morning – and still be back at your digs in time for a quiet beer.
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FEELING MOORISH
By Dilip Kuner
DENIA is gearing up for one of its biggest events of the yearthe annual Moros y Cristianos festival. It promises to be an epic spectacle filled with dramatic battles, dazzling costumes, and a whole lot of fire.
Every year, thousands of visitors gather between August 13 to 16 to witness the re-enactment of one of the most famous historical conflicts in Spain: the Reconquista
This is where the Christians (representing Catholic Spain) battle the Moors (representing Muslim Spain).
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The Parade of Troops kicks things off, with locals dressed head-to-toe in intricate costumes - think sparkling turbans, shining armour, and regal medieval gowns. It’s one massive street party where the crowds line up to watch the Moorish and Christian factions clash in all their fiery glory.
Explosive reenactments are the highlight. Local actors turn the streets into a battlefield, complete with fireworks and explosions, as the Christians (usually) triumph over the Moors in a full-on historical showdown. The Capitans, leaders of the Christian and Moorish factions, take centre stage as the show’s biggest stars. They are tasked with leading the charge and ensuring that every parade and battle stays true to its historical roots.
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TOP MARKS
Lady Elizabeth School once again ranked among the top schools in Spain
LADY Elizabeth School has yet again been included in Spain’s most prestigious school rankings, reaffirming its commitment to educational excellence. This year, they have achieved the following recognitions:
Best International Schools 2025 in Spain by El Mundo Newspaper
Top 100 Schools in Spain 2025 by Forbes Magazine
50 Most Outstanding Schools 2025 by El Español Newspaper
Best Schools in Alicante 2025 by Micole.net
Special List of Schools 2025/26 by ABC Newspaper
These achievements reflect the dedication of their students, families, and educators, whose collective efforts continue to position the school as a leader in academic distinction.
They are also a reflection of their commitment to quality education, pedagogical innovation, and the integral development of our students.
At Lady Elizabeth School, they remain committed to offering a quality education and promoting the academic, personal, and emotional growth of their students.
If you want to learn more about the school and their curricular and extracurricular offering, please contact them online or by phone and schedule a school tour www.les.edu.es
Get creative
When it comes to gastronomy, Denia is the place to be according to UNESCO
GET ready to experience a city where the finest flavours are as celebrated as its sundrenched shores.
Welcome to Denia, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy since 2015, and a Spanish pioneer in the world of culinary culture.
Out of the nine Spanish cities which are presently members of the UNESCO Creative Cities network, Denia and Burgos are the only two to have been awarded the title of City of Gastronomy.
By Zoe Dahse
Mediterranean diet and Slow Food concepts, the city´s gastronomic scene focuses on healthy food based on local resources and products.
The chefs of the port town pride themselves on making the best of Denia’s own fishing fleet catch - guaranteeing that the freshest fish will make it onto the town’s dining tables.
Local boats make around €15 million in sales annually and more than 500 culinary enterprises generate 2,500 direct jobs.
The famous Red Denia Prawn is caught at a depth of 1000m, where the water is cold and pure, the prawns live in total darkness before they are
restaurants in Denia include Chef Quique Dacosta’s (pictured) restaurant, which has been awarded 3 Michelin stars, and where guests can enjoy a menu that offers twists on Mediterranean cuisine for €315.
of the Red Prawn of Denia, see the participation of chefs worldwide competing to create innovative dishes with crimson shrimp.
Some of the best
If that is a bit too rich for you, cheaper options exist elsewhere: in El Baret de Miguel Ruiz the crimson shrimp croquettes are a must-try. Go to Casa Benjamin for seafood paella, and to Tasca Eulalia for arroz a la banda, a typical Denian dish.
For culinary lovers, cooking classes are on offer at Denia Gastronomic Center, with a focus on Valencian cuisine, and also at La Seu Gastronomica.
Knowledge
The Mercat Municipal is excellent for trying out local products, with food stalls open from Monday to Saturday 8am to 2pm.
Dried crimson shrimp is also one of Denia´s specialties.
Drawing inspiration from the
Denia’s status as a Creative City of Gastronomy also means it participates in the exchange of knowledge with other cities.
Annual culinary competitions, such as the International Creative Cuisine Competition
Through the Open Africa programme, Denia has created a partnership with Tangier, in Morocco, as its twin city. Within the Creative Cities Network, there are now 56 designated Cities of Gastronomy in 34 countries worldwide.
CATCH: Denia’s own fleet provides the freshest fish
LOYALTY REWARDED
Mark Petrie brings more than 50 years experience to his clients and a helping hand to Britons
MARK Petrie moved to Spain when he was just 11 years old and opened his first business here in 1977. Today he counts on hundreds of loyal clients from all over Spain and has rightfully been recognised in the UK with an MBE for his services to expats.
So, it's no surprise to discover that Mark was also Denia's Honorary British Consul - a safe pair of hands to turn to in a time of crisis, but has since retired from the post.
His company, Mark Petrie Insurance Brokers, brings more than 50 years of experience offering clients the best available policies tailored to their individual needs.
With offices in Javea and Denia, his experienced team offers a wide range of insurance services from car, home, health and boat insurance, to legal assistance policies.
Because the brokerage is not affiliated to any company, it can offer the most appropriate policies on the market to suit individual needs at the most
competitive prices.
His team of five works with all the leading agents such as Liberty, Allianz, Plus Ultra, Reale, Zurich, DKV, Salus and many more to offer a personalised service from day one.
“Each policy is tailored to what the customer needs and wants, and we are very expat orientated,” explained Mark.
While we have many clients here, we have others from as far away as Galicia, Madrid, Sevilla and Málaga.
By reducing response times and with an insurance programme run by professionals, our clients get the most out of any policy that they take out.
WHEN TIME TEAM CAME
HANNEL 4’S Time Team packed their trowels and digging gear to swap soggy British fields for the sundrenched Spanish coast in January 2000.
To celebrate the new millennium, Sir Tony Robinson - he of Baldric fame - and his fearless archaeological squad set their sights on Denia, with its rich, complex history.
They unearthed some fascinating secrets, particularly about its powerful Islamic past at the turn of the previ-
Channel 4 archaeologists dug into the town’s 2,000 year old history to discover Denia’s buried past
ous millennium.
Tony, the ever-enthusiastic presenter, along with heavyweights like the late Mick Aston (the one with the colourful jumpers), ‘geophys wizard’ John Gater, landscape archaeologist Stewart Ainsworth and strategist Caren-
By Dilip Kuner
za Lewis, had teamed up with local expert Josep Gisbert to investigate Denia’s past.
But the town, with its mix of Islamic, Roman, and medieval influences, presented a new challenge.
This was a chance to dive into a site that was, a thousand years ago, a thriving Islamic outpost in medieval Europe.
The town’s history stretches back over two millennia.
From ancient ports to mighty fortresses, every archaeological layer promised a clue.
They were particularly hoping to find Islamic pottery and burial sites, eager to understand this sophisticated period of Spanish history. dive
For the Time Team, their mission was crystal clear: expose the hidden stories beneath Denia’s bustling streets, especially its crucial Islamic period. The team’s main focus was the Islamic era, when it flourished as a port and cultural centre.
LOCATION: The dig happened at the foot of Denia Castle
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Teaming up with local Spanish experts, the crew, including resident digger Phil Harding with his trusty trowel, began their search near Denia Castle.
This imposing fortress, though later Christianised, had strong Moorish origins, acting as the heart of the Taifa of Denia, a powerful independent Muslim state.
The dig swiftly uncovered a wealth of glazed Moorish pottery shards –indicating a sophisticated culture –along with metal tools, coins, and the remnants of stone walls and intricate water channels near the castle.
These finds vividly showed how the Moors were masters of adapting the land, creating incredibly productive agricultural terraces – many of which are still visible today. These ingenious systems were a testament to advanced Islamic engineering, allowing them to farm
the rugged hills around Denia with incredible efficiency. But it wasn’t just about the digs. Tony Robinson himself got hands-on, joining efforts to recreate authentic Islamic medieval cuisine. With the help of a local Moroccan chef, he cooked up ancient recipes to taste history first hand, giving viewers a real flavour of what life was like in Denia a thousand years ago. While the primary focus was on Denia’s Islamic power, the team also encountered tantalising
glimpses of its even older past. Beneath the Moorish layers, they also found fragments of Roman pottery, roof tiles, and even evidence of Roman walls. And the real showstopper, a stunning, beautifully preserved Roman mosaic. This incredible find, believed to be from a wealthy Roman villa and possibly depicting mythological sea creatures or gods, hinted at the wealth and sophistication of earlier Roman inhabitants.
Continues overleaf
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INSEPARABLE: Tony Robinson with Mick Aston and above on a Denia beach, and a skeleton uncovered by the team
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DIGGING UP DENIA’S PAST
It served as a powerful reminder that Denia had been a significant settlement across multiple epochs. What made Denia so special, as Tony Robinson pointed out, was its identity as a cultural melting pot.
The blend of those earlier Roman finds alongside the extensive Moorish irrigation systems and structures was striking.
It painted a vivid picture of a town that had always been a fantastic mix of different cultures, each adding something unique to Denia’s vibrant identity before its Christianisation in 1242.
And it could be argued this continues to this day, with the more recent influx of Northern European expats
LEARN SPANISH IN DENIA
THE TLCDÉNIA SCHOOL IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO LEARN SPANISH FAST
TLCdénia, located in the picturesque town of Denia, celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2024. It is recognized as one of Spain’s top language schools, accredited by the ‘Instituto Cervantes’ and a member of FEDELE. It also serves as an examination center for DELE and SIELE, attracting thousands of students over the years.
The school offers intensive courses designed for quick learning. In just four weeks, students can complete the basic level (A1), and in 12 weeks, they can begin the intermediate level (B1). New courses start every Monday, providing flexibility for students to join anytime.
A typical day at TLCdénia begins at 9:15am with coffee and conversation among classmates. Classes run from 9:30am to 12:45pm, with breaks for relaxation. The school organizes cultural and gastronomic activities, allowing students to practice Spanish in a relaxed, real-world setting. TLCdénia also offers courses for children starting at age 5 and a special summer program for teenagers, making it a perfect destination for families. Their intensive courses are visaapproved, beneficial for students like those from the UK who require a visa.
HOW TO LEARN SPANISH
WHILE YOU ARE IN SPAIN
Engage with locals by speaking Spanish at restaurants or with neighbours. Immerse yourself in the culture by attending local events and exploring markets. Watching Spanish TV and listening to the radio will further enhance your skills. These practices help learners achieve fluency naturally.
For more information, contact TLCdénia directly. tel: +34 671 51 68 56 www.tlcdenia.com email: info@tlcdenia.es
Time Team’s Denia adventure might have been a short visit (famously, as Tony used to say, ‘We have just three days to find out’), but its impact has been huge.
The episode put Denia’s incredible history, especially its rich Islamic period, on the world map. It sparked more archaeological research and drew in tourists keen to explore sites like the majestic Castillo de Denia and the stunning Cova Tallada caves.
Pride
For the locals, the dig was a massive source of pride.
It not only showcased their town’s layered heritage but also hammered home the importance of preserving their history. Denia’s ancient roots, from its Roman beginnings through its powerful Islamic era and beyond, still shape the charming town you see today.
Denia might be famous for its beaches and Med charm, but Time Team proved it’s much more than a holiday spot.
THE SITE: Viewed from the castle walls, the Time Team at work with Spanish colleagues
ON DISPLAY: Artefacts in Denia’s museum are well worth an examination
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