Olive Press Andalucia Issue 482

Our top tips for which local chefs are going to win a new Michelin star

We lead the charge to find the best ham and hotels, and the hottest new sites and restaurants in Ronda

COPS BEAT ME UP!

A WELL known expat lawyer has been hospitalised after police and bouncers attacked him on a night out in Portugal.

The solicitor, based between Marbella and Alicante, needed treatment after the beating in Lagos.

The boss of the well-established legal firm was attacked after being violently ejected from a bar and went to file a complaint to local police.

The British Law Society member,

By Jon Clarke

who grew up on the Costa del Sol, told the Olive Press he was ‘completely shocked’ to be beaten up for ‘absolutely no reason’.

The father-of-two had been having a ‘quiet g&t’ with an Irishman, who was also on holiday.

“One minute I was at the bar chatting with this guy, Matt, and the next I was picked up and ejected from the place,” he revealed, insisting on anonymity for legal reasons.

“It was very aggressive and without warning and I ended up on the floor.”

But it was then that things took an ever darker turn.

Getting up he could see a group of four policemen standing outside the bar, Bon Vivant, and said he wanted to make an ‘official statement’.

Leading Costa del Sol lawyer demands action as Algarve police leave him hospitalised in ‘brutal’ midnight attack

behaviour from the bar staff.

“But they just said ‘go away, go home’ and then suddenly this one cop pushed me over violently, before taking me down a side street.

“I was then knocked on the head and fell over. It was really brutal and shocking and I thought I was not going to get out of it.”

Somehow though he managed to get away and he carefully circled back to the square a short while later to get photos of the police - who are part of the PFP security force - for evidence. He then headed back to his hotel he was staying at with his two adult daughters.

He continued:

“I’m sure it was the police or bouncers who did it and I have no doubt they were in collusion.”

Somehow with the help of a ‘Good Samaritan’ he got to a local health centre, where he was treated for cuts, bruises and a possible broken arm.

Headlock

“I decided to take a longer route home, via the central square, Jardin de la Constitucion, and it was there when I was suddenly attacked again.”

He continued: “These two people literally bounded up and jumped on me from behind.

“They put me in a headlock and started strangling me. They wanted me to pass out.”

When he came to, he was ‘very dazed and disorientated’ and assumed he’d been mugged.

So worried was he of further ramifications he sent a series of over two dozen messages with photos of his bruised face to the Olive Press ‘for security’.

He also sent a series of dramatic voice notes, in which he insisted he was ‘really frightened’, insisting it needed to be ‘reported’ by the media.

The lawyer, who worked for leading UK firm Irwin Mitchell for years, has now filed an official complaint on the Algarve.

at least three other violent incidents at Bon Vivant over recent months.

At least two punters were attacked with ‘pepper spray’ by bouncers, while a woman, Ines Paredes, claims she was recently ‘kicked out by the neck’. “He almost hit me,” she added in the post on Google.

There are even more serious allegations of a drunk woman being ‘undressed’ on the dancefloor by ‘a member of staff’.

“But I still had my wallet, watch and

“I said: ‘I’m a lawyer and it was not acceptable phone with me so it was clearly for other reasons.”

After going to an official judicial doctor, he filed the denuncia at the Policia Judiciary (PJ) headquarters in nearby Portimao.

It is now being handled by the Lagos Public Prosecutors office, we have established.

Alarmingly the Olive Press has found

BATTERING: The lawyer was firstly attacked at Bon Vivant in central Lagos

And when the incident was reported to the manager it was dismissed as ‘a joke’.

All the incidents, including this, were rebuffed by the club’s ‘bar manager’ Marco Monteiro on Google.

However, a local expat restaurant owner, told the Olive Press he had heard of ‘a few unprovoked incidents’ similar to this.

Protect

“But it is not anyone I know so it would be best to go to the police and see what they say.”

It is unsure what will happen next but the lawyer is clear about one thing.

“The job of the police is to protect the public,” he said, now back home in Marbella.

“It is really important for the courts to properly deal with incidents like this and particularly Bon Vivant, having read all the other negative reports.

“I fear if they don’t, there could be much worse cases over the next few months.”

When the Olive Press visited the club, a barman insisted he couldn’t ‘recall any incidents like that’. Manager Marco didn’t get back by phone or WhatsApp messages.

A police source confirmed to the Olive Press the ‘case is being dealt with by the Lagos prosecutors’.

FUN NIGHT: But the banter ended abruptly soon after pic was taken

ACCUSED: Squadron of PFP officers outside the club

Chinese laundry

ORIENTAL bazaars selling everyday household items on the Costa del Sol were actually laundering millions and acting as ‘shadow banks’ for Albanian drug traffickers, a new investigation found.

Belted black

A KARATE coach accused of sexually abusing his students has been refused bail after a Malaga court judged that the risk of him reoffending was too high.

Not bargains

POLICE have pleaded with people in Puerto Banus and other Marbella hotspots to stop buying fake goods from ‘looky looky men’, blaming the practice for ‘fraud, exploitation, and loss of jobs’.

Head hunted

THE leader of Los Lobos, Ecuador’s most notorious drug trafficking gang, has been arrested on the Costa del Sol. He’s accused of ordering over 400 murders from jail between 2011 and 2019.

A POLICE file into the death of an expat in Andalucia has revealed strong evidence of a violent robbery – yet the case has been provisionally closed by a judge.

Brett Dryden, 35, (pictured) was found dead inside his Mojacar home on July 22 last year with his phone, wallet and an estimated €8,000 missing –and blood stains all over the house.

Yet his mother Sandra told the Olive Press this week, she was shocked the investigation was curtailed in September –despite numerous leads being unexplored.

“The whole thing is an absolute s*** show,” she said, adding that the Guardia Civil report was ‘a joke’.

She revealed her family are now hiring a private investigator to find out what really happened.

What is known is that the father-of-one had left his cannabis club, The Dawg House, at 1.35 pm on the day of his death, telling an employee he would ‘be right back’. He never returned. His phone

‘Sh*t show’

Mother furious with police as they close case on son’s killing despite numerous signs of foul play and a link to Albanian drug dealers

EXCLUSIVE

By Walter Finch

records show he received a call around 2 pm, telling a friend that ‘people he was waiting for’ had arrived at his house.

Around the same time, nearby CCTV footage showed a man in a cap and mask loitering outside Brett’s door, acting as an apparent lookout for at least 15 minutes.

One minute later, two masked figures were seen running from the house, one carrying a large bag and the other a smaller one resembling Brett’s cross-body pouch.

The police report, seen by the Olive Press, also reveals Brett

A VIGILANT resident has snapped a pic-

ture of a bird poo scammer who has been targeting expats in Duquesa. The man has reportedly been throwing messy liquid, which resembles bird poo, onto locals’ backs before kindly offering to clean it off – as the victims are distracted he allegedly steals their wallets, phones, or bank cards.

As he tried the trick on some vigilant expats, they captured a shot of him walking away and shared it as a warning to others in the area.

had arranged to meet an Albanian cannabis supplier known as ‘Irdi’ at his home.

Witnesses described Irdi as always being accompanied by another man, ‘Hakim’ or ‘Hakir’ both of whom were familiar in the local drug scene.

Despite detailed descriptions, there is no indication in the police file handed to Brett’s family that either man was questioned or even located by investigators.

What is clear is that Brett’s friend Ashley Povey found his body a couple of hours later in the living room, with his dog sitting nearby.

His belongings were gone, and the front door was open. Ini-

POO ALERT

Witnesses described the man as wearing a bucket hat and sunglasses, often seen wandering around the sea front. Locals are urging others to stay cautious and advising visitors to not accept help from strangers, even if they appear friendly or offer bottled water to clean up a mess – this could be part of a distraction tactic that allows for easier pickpocketing.

tial reports from officers claimed there had been ‘no struggle’ and that Brett had died from a pulmonary embolism.

This was despite a forensic report revealing multiple head injuries and internal bleeding, which led to the cause of death being re-

vised to homicide.

One of the most shocking aspects of the case involves Brett’s stolen iPhone.

Despite the phone being missing from his home, a one-second internet call was made to his mother’s number hours after his death.

Investigators traced the phone’s signal to Vera, a nearby town, and later located the device near a campground.

Strangely, another phone, registered to a woman with no criminal record, was traced to both Brett’s home and the campground.

Although investigators found that multiple people, including one with a criminal history, lived at the property, no interviews were conducted with any of them.

Despite these red flags, the Guardia Civil closed the case in September, citing a lack of identifiable suspects.

A judge issued a provisional archive order, meaning the case could only be reopened if new evidence emerges. Brett’s family insists the evidence points to a violent robbery gone wrong, but they feel the investigation was never taken seriously.

“I just want to know what happened to my boy,” Sandra continued, expressing her disbelief that authorities had no interest in solving the case.

“I feel like they never intended to solve Brett’s murder.” The family’s attempts to appeal the decision have been met with silence. Their lawyer reported that the police phone number connected to the case is no longer working, and they have been waiting for a response for over five weeks.

OVER 30,000 people - mainly British expats and tourists - lined Benidorm's streets for the annual ‘Fancy Dress Party’.

The event organised by hospitality associations in the Rincon de Loix ‘English Zone’ of the city and backed by the local council, has been going strong for over 30 years.

The event attracts thousands of visitors each year. Benidorm mayor, Toni Perez, said the festival started in 1994 and was created by local businessman Manuel Nieto.

“Since then it has only grown to become, possibly, the largest costume party in Europe,” he commented. “It began in a very informal way, as a party among friends, and currently brings together more than 30,000 people to have a good time and to be happy,” Perez added.

RIP Angelina

ANGELINA Torres, the oldest person in Spain, has died in Barcelona aged 112. The supercentenarian became Spain’s oldest lady 14 months ago following the deaths of fellow Catalan Maria Branyas, who was the world’s oldest living person until her death aged 117 last August, and Piede Loriente from Araga on, who died aged 113 last September.

Born on March 18, 1913 in the village of Bellvis, Lleida, Angelina lived in Barcelona from an early age. Her family home was near the

By Ben Pawlowski

Sagrada Familia - Antoni Gaudi’s gothic basilica that still remains unfinished, although a completion date has finally been penned in for Angelina had six siblings and began working as an apprentice

Coffee and a dash of Bailey’s kept her alive

dressmaker at a local shop aged 15, where she earned six pesetas for every 12 ties she made.

After the Spanish Civil War, she married her boyfriend, Josep Marti. They had one daughter, Merce, who is now 81 years old.

Angelina was a grandmother to two and great-grandmother to three children.

“I would like to be remembered as someone who has done everything she could for others, young and old, always with my arms wide open,” Angelina said in an interview last September. Her secret to longevity?

Lots of caffeine - sometimes sweetened with a dash of Bailey’s.

Catalan president Salvador Illa was among those to pay tribute to Angelina on social media.

“I had the privilege of meeting Angelina Torres last year. A wise woman, full of faith and kindness, very hardworking and with great strength,” he posted on X

“I will always remember a phrase she said to me that marked me deeply: we must help each other, with open hands, never clenched. I promised her, so I will do just that.”

The title of Spain’s oldest living person now falls on Carme Noguera Falguera, a 111-yearold woman from Olot, Girona.

MULLINS IT OVER

EVENTUALLY AND, QUITE RIGHTLY, CARLOS MAZON FELL ON HIS SWORD, AS HE CANOODLED WHILE HIS CITY FLOODED KILLING 229 PEOPLE, WRITES CHARLIE MULLINS

OUR papers all over the world are full of political stories that mostly all follow the same format. Politician A does or says something stupid, dishonest, or just plain reprehensible.

Politician B and his entire party pile in screaming for A to fall on his - or her - sword, and they never do. Certainly not in Spain!

But every now and then, just like surfing, out of nowhere a monster wave comes along, sweeping all before it.

This is the case of Valencian President Carlos Mazon, who resigned last week over his failures during the flooding tragedy of October last year. It is not as if Mazon didn’t put up a fight, clinging on to power for an entire year be fore he eventually fell on his sword, engulfed in an ever growing ball of rage.

Something of a modern-day Nero, the emperor who ‘fiddled while Rome burned’, Carlos was caught

MOVE OVER MADONNA

THE world has a new Goddess of Pop - and she is Spanish. Rosalia has redefined music with her genre-bending fourth album, Lux. Blending flamenco, rumba, opera, and 14 languages, it’s been hailed as her best work yet, with critics calling it ‘exquisite’and ‘spectacular.’

FLIRTING WITH LIVES

flirting while Valencia flooded.

A little background: it was on October 29, 2024, that El Presidente was the man in charge of declaring an official ‘catastrophe’.

This would have meant putting out early urgent messages and mobilising hundreds of emergency workers to save a community from an oncoming violent DANA flood.

Instead, married Carlos, a fatherof-two, went on a long boozy lunch with blonde TV journalist Mirabel Vilaplana (both pic tured), and when lunch was done they contin ued on their no-doubt Rioja-fuelled conver sations, before head ing for an hour ‘to a nearby car park’.

Meanwhile the giant flood claimed 229 lives, the worst in recent history.

You’d think this over sight would be the end of Carlos’ career in

politics. But he damn near managed to hang on to his job, despite more than a dozen protest marches of up to 50,000 Valencians baying for his blood.

The polls were just as damning with 75% of voters wanting him gone.

So when he finally stepped down last month, my first instinct was a story of virtue, a politician who did the right thing and surrendered his high office as a sign of remorse and responsibility for something that happened on

Sadly that’s not what happened here.

What I do think though is that if Carlos was seen having working lunch with a middle-aged male civil servant the story might have died a natural death.

So, the moral of the story, if indeed this immoral little tale has one is, don’t go on a bender with a pretty blond who isn’t your wife during a major natural disaster… you never know you might just weather the storm.

Featuring collaborations with Björk, Estrella Morente, and the London Symphony Orchestra, Lux smashed records on its release, earning 42.1 million streams on Spotify on day one, the most for any female Spanish-language artist. Its lead single, Berghain, topped charts in Spain and beyond. Rosalia mania has swept Spain, with even Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez praising her.

The Catalan’s religious imagery has sparked adoration among fans and clergy alike, some calling her a modern saint. Despite some criticism, Lux has solidified Rosalia as a cultural icon. As Die Zeit put it: “Pop has a new goddess.”

KING IN CHINA

PRESIDENT Xi Jinping welcomed King Felipe during his four-day state visit to China - his first since ascending to the Spanish throne in 2014.

The monarch and Queen Leitizia’s trip started in Chengdu, the capital of south-western Sichuan province.

During their meeting in Beijing, Xi and Felipe witnessed the signing of several cooperation agreements aimed at strengthening bilateral ties. China is Spain’s largest trading partner outside the EU, with bilateral trade reaching $48.6 billion in recent years. King Felipe said: “A relationship of trust has been forged.”

Sail on by

THE world’s largest aircraft carrier has been snapped powering through the Strait of Gibraltar as it heads to join President Trump’s fleet terrorising the Caribbean.

The USS Gerald R. Ford sped past the Rock having spent a few days in the Mediterranean.

The carrier, which can hold over 75 aircraft on its 4.5-acre flight deck, is heading to the Caribbean where it will spearhead the ongoing military campaign against alleged drug smugglers from Venezuela.

At least 67 people have been killed in US air strikes on small boats off the Venezuelan coast since early September. But the families of many of the victims killed have criticised the US, claiming their relatives are mostly fishermen, not drug traffickers.

Gibraltar confidential

THE long-awaited McGrail Report shining a light into policing and corruption in Gibraltar has finally been delivered.

The hefty 700-page document, which examines the controversial forced retirement of police commissioner Ian McGrail in 2020, should be released this month.

It is believed to heavily criticise key power brokers on the Rock, including Chief Minister Fabian Picardo, who is now under mounting pressure to publish it immediately.

The government initially told Parliament it would table the report ‘in the coming weeks’, later saying it would be released ‘well ahead of Christmas’.

Advance copies will be provided to the Royal Gibraltar Police, the Gibraltar Police Authority and 33 individuals named in the proceedings.

The opposition GSD has demanded that the report be published in full ‘without delay’ and warned the government not to ‘seek to bury [it] over Christmas’.

Picardo has insisted the report will be published in full, subject only to redactions on security grounds.

BORDER CHAOS

BRITS travelling through Malaga Airport claim to have missed their flights after having to wait for two hours in passport queues.

Numerous passengers reported being stuck for hours as the new border control system came in.

They claimed queues for UK flights stretched back into the public areas of Terminal 3.

Some reported being stuck in line for so long they missed their flights and were forced to stay overnight and fly the following day.

One traveller said the passport queue was ‘way back to the cafe area’, adding she had ‘never seen it like this before’.

Others claimed they stood in line for ‘more than two hours’, with one family missing their 12.20pm flight after joining the queue around 10am.

Another traveller from Estepona said the ‘set up is just mad-

Brits miss flights and are forced to stay longer as Malaga Airport border control malfunctions

By Walter Finch

ness’ and that they were forced to stay an extra night. One passenger shared a photo (right) of crowds waiting to enter the UK lane, at 10.20am on Saturday morning. He added: “Oh the joy of Brexit.” The frustration comes as Malaga Airport continues rolling out new border-control technology linked to the EU’s upcoming Entry Exit System. It requires non-EU nationals to register fingerprints and a facial image on arrival or departure. It appears scanners installed

last year have only now been activated, slowing down the flow of travellers as staff adjust to the system.

A separate Olive Press report earlier this month, exposed a total lack of understanding by police.

The chaos has also exposed the gap between peak-time and off-peak travel at the airport. Some passengers reported being ‘through in 10 minutes’, and others found it ‘completely empty’ later in the afternoon with ‘six staff on and not one passenger’. The unpredictable waits have

BRING IN THE BRIGADERS

SPAIN will give up to 170 descendants of the International Brigades citizenship. It comes as the government recognises the volunteers who fought fascism and Franco during the civil war.

Around 35,000 foreigners enlisted to fight against Franco’s nationalist forces between 1936 and 1939 - up to 15,000 of whom died

in battle or in prisoner camps.

“It will be an honour to call them compatriots,” said Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez.

The descendants will be eligible to apply for citizenship if they hold similar views to their ancestors and ‘continue to defend democracy in Spain’.

This week marks the 50th anniversary of Franco’s death, which

brought an end to his 36-year iron fist rule and laid the foundations of a successful transition to democracy.

Jim Jump, of London’s International Brigade Memorial Trust, said: “The decision underlines the determination to erase the toxic legacy of the Franco dictatorship. “For many families citizenship fulfils the spirit of the historic pledge made by the Spanish Republic to offer a home for the Brigaders.”

fuelled anger among travellers, with some calling for the UK to ‘reciprocate the treatment’. It comes as Malaga saw its highest ever passenger figures with an average of 83,116 passengers per day and a total of 2.57m travellers.

A NEW map sketches out a dream rail network that would link almost every corner of Malaga province by train.

The remarkable plan shows lines running from Nerja to Estepona, and up through inland towns long cut off from rail.

The design imagines a sweeping overhaul of the province’s rail links at a scale never attempted by regional or national planners – but one which residents argue is richly deserved.

The map shows the C-1 commuter line

extended to Estepona and the same line into central Malaga with a new terminal near La Malagueta.

Inland, a proposed C-3 would reconnect Coin, Alhaurin el Grande and Alhaurin de la Torre – towns that once had rail service but lost it more than half a century ago.

Another new line, the C-4, would

restore trains between Malaga and Velez Malaga before continuing on to Nerja, while a regional service would push on to Almeria.

Getting antsy MAPPING THE FUTURE

Residents slam notorious 'ant roundabout'once a popular spot for prostituteswhere crashes now happen almost daily

A NOTORIOUS roundabout which was once a popular soliciting spot for prostitutes is now better known for its accidents.

The notorious ‘ant roundabout’ between Estepona and Sabinillas is seeing almost daily crashes – and residents are outraged by the response from authorities.

According to locals there have been six accidents in the last week alone with two occurring on Saturday night.

The residents insist the A-7 roundabout at Arroyo

Marbella, with more than 150,000 people, is the largest city in Spain without a train station, and relies almost entirely on road traffic to move residents, workers and tourists along heavily congested roads.

BLACKSPOT: Many accidents at Estepona roundabout

By Rachel Gore

Vaquero, near Mercadona, lacks light, has insufficient signs, damaged crash barriers, and messy markings.

They say that repairs are rarely done properly after previous crashes.

Residents in the area say that crashes are happening ‘all the time’ and that the road authorities merely place ‘cones in the road’ after an accident.

Since last August, the list of incidents has not

HOTEL bosses have renewed calls for a third lane on the A7 on the Costa del Sol.

They warn Malaga’s chronic traffic is threatening the region’s ability to cope with record visitor numbers. Hotel association, Aehcos, insists a third lane is urgently needed in stretches around Puerto Banus and San Pedro, as well as into Malaga from Velez Malaga.

Local mayors backed the call warning that long bottlenecks are now routine at peak times.

They also criticised the long wait for the northern access road to Malaga Airport, a project announced in 2018 but still not started after it was annulled and redesigned. They insist only 63% of EU funds allocated had been spent, well behind Portugal (100%) and Italy at 70%.

stopped growing with vehicles being burnt out, others littering the local fields and one driver colliding with the roundabout after attempting to dodge an animal.

The insufficient lighting and badly surfaced road poses a risk to drivers but also to pedestrians.

“There is a total lack of safe pedestrian crossings nearby which already makes it a dangerous situation,” said one expat resident.

Children

“And especially as children and young people frequently cross the road to get to school.”

Without urgent measures to change speed limits, improve signage, and implement proper crash barriers, the residents believe deaths will soon occur.

The Olive Press previously exposed the roundabout for being an illegal soliciting spot for prostitutes. It came after local residents criticised Estepona Town Hall for failing to tackle the blight to their community.

Tunnel vision

A SOLUTION to the challenge of building a Costa del Sol train has emerged - digging a tunnel under the A7 motorway.

Previously dismissed as too expensive by Transport Minister Oscar Puente, now he has confirmed it's ‘possible’ and it is his ministry's preferred option.

Urban planning in the region never allocated space for a rail line, so a tunnel offers the most viable solution.

€2.8 billion

The project would use a ‘cut and cover’ method, similar to the Malaga metro.

The train could link Marbella to the existing Fuengirola tunnel, with construction taking up to two years and costs between €40 to 60 million per coastal stretch.

Experts predict it could take four years to complete, with total costs ranging from €2.5 to €2.8 billion.

IT offers beautiful vistas of the Mediterranean and is a favoured spot for thrill-seeking motorcyclists - but a small stretch of road at one end of the Costa del Sol is one of Spain’s most dangerous.

The stretch of tarmac - around KM-302, on the N-340 - has seen four people killed in accidents in four years.

The road, straddling the border between Nerja and Almunecar, has been named as Spain’s most dangerous by the European Motorists Association (AEA).

The group, which has identified the 270

most dangerous driving spots in Spain, studied official data from the transport ministry between 2019 and 2023. Only two roads are more dangerous: the KM-243 of the N-4a in Ciudad Real, with a danger index some 598 times higher than the national average.

The most dangerous road in terms of accidents and casualties is KM-0 of the A-77a in Alicante.

Over the four-year period studied, the road bore witness to 104 separate accidents, resulting in 150 casualties.

In 2024, 1,154 people lost their lives on Spanish roads - a 1% increase from 2023.

Some 4,634 people were injured and hospitalised, according to data from the DGT.

Inma Cisneros

Voted

top expat paper in

Spain

A campaigning, community newspaper, the Olive Press represents the huge expatriate community in Spain with an estimated readership, including the websites, of more than two million people a month.

OPINION

An affront to justice

THE case of Brett Dryden’s death in Mojacar is a shocking example of how an investigation can be derailed by incompetence and indifference.

Dryden, a 35-year-old British expat, was found dead with €8,000 missing, along with his phone and wallet, and clear signs of violence in his home.

Despite the evidence of foul play - bloodstains, multiple injuries, a suspicious lookout, and a stolen iPhone - Spanish authorities quietly closed the case in September.

What makes this case particularly troubling is not just the disturbing circumstances of Dryden’s death, but the failure of the authorities to follow up on critical leads.

Surveillance footage captured a masked figure outside Dryden’s home shortly before two individuals fled with his belongings.

Dryden had also arranged a meeting with an Albanian drug supplier, ‘Irdi’, yet neither Irdi nor his associate, ‘Hakim’, were ever questioned.

Worse still, the investigation ignored key details about the stolen iPhone’s whereabouts, which pointed to suspicious locations, and the fact that one device linked to the crime was registered to a woman with known connections to criminals.

To close a case with such glaring holes is an affront to justice.

Brett’s family deserve answers, not apathy.

Sandra Dryden, his mother, has rightly expressed frustration with the dismissal.

That she needs to reach out to journalists and dig deep into her pockets to pay for investigators is a disgrace.

It is a damning indictment of a justice system that can, at best, be described as neglectful and, at worst, complicit in the cover-up of a violent crime.

PUBLISHER / EDITOR

Jon Clarke, jon@theolivepress.es

Dilip Kuner dilip@theolivepress.es Walter Finch walter@theolivepress.es

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FINGERS ON THE

The Albanians? The Mocro Maffia? The Chinese? A Who’s Who of criminal gangs and mafias operating in Spain today

By Walter Finch

AREPORT from Spain’s Prosecutor’s Office has laid bare some of the many mafia groups operating in the country today. There are some terrifying outfits among the rogue’s gallery, who have chosen to base themselves in a country that has become a global epicentre for transnational organised crime.

Some of the world’s most dangerous mafias have targeted Valencia and particularly Andalucia, turning Malaga and the Costa del Sol into a hub for sophisticated criminals.

The revelations come from the recently released Annual Report of the Fiscal General del Estado (FGE), which details how the gangs are evolving, where they operate, and how the violence is intensifying. Some thing of a Who’s Who of Spain’s crim inal landscape, it makes for alarming reading.

Mocro Maffia: The New Face of Terror

Originally from the Netherlands but of Moroccan origin, the Mocro Maffia has extended its bloody turf wars into southern Spain, establishing a terrifying repu-

Station for extreme violence and total ruthlessness. They have strengthened their grip on Marbella, effectively running parallel empires across the Netherlands, Belgium, and Spain. Their strategic importance to global crime lies in their control over the logistics between the major European drug entry ports - Antwerp and Rotterdam - and Algeciras and Valencia, closer to home. They don't just move cocaine; they manage the supply chain and the brutal enforcement that comes with it. Their turf wars, initially confined to Amsterdam, have spilled over dramatically, including the 2023 assassination of a Dutch-Moroccan man in

PAIN’s culinary spotlight is about to be thrown on Malaga’s Sohrlin Theatre as it hosts the 2026 Michelin Guide presentation for the first time. November 25 promises a night of glamour, tension and celebration, where careers can rise or fall with a listing, or even better a star or two in the world’s most influential restaurant guide.

This is more than a ceremony – it is a statement of ambition from a country whose gastronomy continues to dominate the global fine-dining stage in the World’s Best 50 awards and many others.

At the heart of the gala, an 18-dish tasting menu crafted by nine of Malaga’s Michelin-starred chefs will demonstrate the city’s culinary muscle.

Two-star chefs Benito Gomez of Bardal in Ronda and Marcos Granda of Skina in Marbella will lead the charge alongside Dani Carnero of Kaleja and Jose Carlos Garcia, who both have one star.

Together, they aim to capture Malaga’s essence, blending fiery traditional techniques with contemporary flair.

Carefully selected local wines will complement every dish, underscoring the region’s talent beyond the kitchen.

The eyes of the culinary world are fixed on which kitchens will rise to the Michelin challenge.

And quite a few local spots are expected to go up the rankings.

Could Bardal in Ronda get a third star? Or Skina in Marbella? We think unlikely on both levels, with Gomez’ inland joint, while authentic and improving each year, lacking a certain je ne se quoi, while chef Granda has

Chiclana, Cadiz – a protected witness who had testified against one of the bosses in the Netherlands.

This killing, executed on Spanish soil, demonstrates their willingness to break all boundaries to silence opponents.

The arrest of a Dutch mafia boss in Marbella last year for laundering at least €6 million for drug cartels underscores their financial might and their solid roots in the local luxury economy. Their activities are so notorious that they have spawned a Dutch drama series that ran from 2018 to 2024.

The Albanian Mafia: The Green Gold Rush Albanian gangs have rapidly carved out a place as one of Spain’s most powerful narco organisations, focusing heavily on ‘green gol’ - marijuana cultivation.

The big reveal

Olive Press offers its top tips as Spain’s gastronauts wait to see who joins the Michelin-rated creme de la creme, write Jon Clarke and Dilip Kuner

been focussing on too many other restaurants over recent years.

We give both chefs a 50% chance of landing a world famous third star!

Malaga city’s excellent Kaleja, admired for its devotion to Andalucian heritage, is widely tipped for a second star and we think this is highly likely. He has built up a solid reputation over a decade and now runs three places in the city.

Long time Olive Press favourite, Diego Gallegos at Sollo, celebrated for his pioneering use of caviar from Granada’s Rio Frio, is another local contender. Our view: Good choice, Two other places to watch are Julio Zambrana’s Promesa by Malaga’s bustling port and Juan Diego at Sarmiento in Casares, a place the Olive Press loves and has reviewed a number of times.

In Cadiz, the two-star joints LU Cocina y Alma and Alevante could get further recognition and a coveted third star. Lets not forget that Alevante chef Angel León has already got three stars at his nearby joint of Aponiente in el Puerto de Santa Maria.

He’s got pedigree and we give this likelihood 7/10.

Madrid’s dining scene balances seasoned excellence and daring newcomers. Quique Dacosta’s Deessa, which has two stars, sets the benchmark for innovation, and is one of the most beautiful restaurants the Olive Press has ever reviewed. Our tip: 8/10. Meanwhile CEBO, run by Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo, and La Tasqueria under Javi Estevez, both with one star, are hoping for upgrades. The latter is the most likely to get it. Up in Barcelona chefs like Jordi Tarre of Prodigi and Riccardo Radice of Fishology are crafting inventive tasting menus that flirt with second-star potential, while Oliver Pena at Teatro Kitchen & Bar and German Espinosa with Diego Mondragon at MAE Barcelona embody the city’s avant-garde spirit.

In the Basque Country and smaller regional

UP FOR THE PRIZE: Quique Dacosta and (right)

RISING STARS: From left, Juan Diego Hernandez, Kaleja restaurant and chef Dani, Javier Sanz and Juan quillo at CEBO and Mari Carmen Velez of La Sirena

TERRIFYING GANG: But a huge hit TV show

November 19thDecember 2nd 2025

They operate through tight-knit, highly disciplined clans and dominate indoor marijuana cultivation around Granada, edging out traditional local clans with superior logistics and financing.

They also run sophisticated container smuggling operations through Valencia’s port.

They also work alongside Chinese gangs in cocaine and laundering operations, demonstrating remarkable versatility.

A major bust on the Costa del Sol last year saw 30 people arrested – including an Albanian kingpin – in an operation that intercepted 3.2 tonnes of cocaine smuggled from Ecuador.

Another Albanian boss Juxhin Drazhi (pictured left), one of Europe’s most wanted kingpins, was arrested while trying to flee his luxury villa in Almunecar, in July.

Their ascent is attributed to their aggressive pursuit of supply chain

hubs, fresh talent is emerging, fusing local tradition with inventive techniques to attract Michelin’s attention.

A new generation of one-star hopefuls is pushing boundaries and redefining regional cuisine. Alex Vidal’s Origen in Carcaixent (Valencia) transforms Mediterranean staples with precision and creativity. We keep hearing good things about this place and are desperate to visit.

Mari Carmen Velez’s La Sirena in Petrer, Alicante, has already drawn Michelin recognition as a recommended venue, signalling a promising path toward its first star.

You can read Olive Press reviews of Kaleja, Bardal, Deessa, Aponiente, Sollo, Sarmiento and many more of Spain’s celebrated restaurants online at www.theolivepress.es

control, high-level corruption, and their near-paramilitary approach to protecting their assets.

Serbian Traffickers:

The Balkan Cartel’s European Hub Serbian groups are key components of the highly organised Balkan Cartel, considered by many global law enforcement agencies to be the most sophisticated cocaine trafficking machine operating today. They use Spain as their European base, working closely with Spanish gangsters. They specialise in importing high-quality cocaine from South America and financing these operations through extensive marijuana cultivation networks across Catalunya and Andalucia.

The

Costa del Sol: Spain’s Money Washing Machine

Prosecutors singled out Malaga and Marbella, in particular, as the definitive main focus for international mafias, a phenomenon often dubbed ‘Narco-Marbella’.

Here, drug trafficking is seamlessly intertwined with complex financial operations.

The city’s luxury real estate sector, its dense web of foreign consultants, lawyers, and estate agents, and the ease of setting up shell companies make it a perfect place to clean cash.

Mafias don’t just buy luxury villas to live in; they use them, often buying and selling properties multiple times in short succession, to wash millions in narco profits.

The report revealed that employees of a private scanning firm at Malaga Port came under investigation for helping smugglers slip containers through undetected.

The sheer scale of the undeclared wealth flowing through the region has created an atmosphere of impunity.

The most alarming finding in the report is that violence is escalating dramatically.

The traditional unwritten rules of organised crime are being ignored, and public displays of force are becoming commonplace. In Huelva and Cadiz, the highly militarised drug launches, known as ‘narcolanchas’, are now routinely escorted by hooded men wielding Kalashnikovs and military-grade weaponry.

Shootings against police have already been recorded, while in Jerez, automatic weapons are turning up in almost every major bust. Prosecutors say some gangs even flaunt assault rifles on social media, turning drug shipment unloadings into paramilitary spectacles designed to intimidate rivals and law enforcement alike.

Their mastery of communication tech is legendary; with one Serbian boss jailed in 2024 after prosecutors revealed he had coordinated massive shipments using the encrypted SKY-ECC network, proving their top-tier logistical capability.

Another Serbian drug trafficker on the run since 2016 was arrested in Lloret de Mar, near Barcelona, this year after a fake Slovakian passport exposed his identity during a routine police check. Their power stems from precision, global connections, and compartmentalization.

Chinese Networks: The Financial Leviathans

Chinese groups are not just focused on drug trafficking; they are integral to the money laundering machinery that sustains every other major organization.

They team up with many gangs for smuggling, while also running large counterfeiting schemes and massive financial fraud operations.

One of their primary methods is the widespread use of falso autonomo (fake self-em-

The Absent Threats (and the UK/Irish Link)

While the FGE report is comprehensive, it omits many traditionally feared names.

The Turkish mafia, despite being responsible for a string of shootings on the coast recently do not feature prominently, while the once-mighty Swedish mafia appears to have been largely dismantled, in part due to the ongoing trial in Madrid.

Even the Russian mafia, who historically controlled huge financial networks, get no specific mention in the report, though their financial presence in the real estate market is still heavily felt.

The footprint of British and Irish gangs still emerge as key figures on the mafia coastline though.

According to the report, the UK filed 30 extradition requests to Spain in 2024 – the third-highest of any country after only Peru and Russia - indicating Spain is a preferred bolt-hole for British criminals. Ireland, meanwhile, lodged a staggering 45 requests for Spain’s prosecutors to gather evidence or carry out procedural steps in Irish criminal cases.

LIGHT IN THE DARK

Our Black Friday sale is back: Grab an annual subscription for 50% before the Christmas rush

IT might feel like the summer has only just departed, yet the festive season is just round the corner.

A whole month of chaos and family, scoffing and shopping, visiting and hosting – wouldn’t it be nice to treat yourself to a pre-festive gift to lighten the strain?

Luckily for you, dear reader, the Olive Press is once again firing up its famous Black Friday mega sale for an annual subscription to our digital version.

Now in its third year, this is not another gadget you don’t need, nor a bottle of plonk you’ll quickly forget.

This is a whole year’s worth of clarity; carefully curated and trusted reporting to help you make sense of life in Spain.

Because let’s be honest – the next month is going to be full of noise.

From now til November 28, you can get a full 12-month subscription for 50% off.

Slashed from €50 a year – half price for the stories that matter and journalism you can rely on. For expats, homeowners living abroad and travellers who keep coming back, this is the best place to come for important and reliable information rather than rumour.

No one-man band relying on AI to publish dozens of stories, our team of NCTJ-trained journalists dotted around the country will keep you informed for the price of one coffee a week! Join us and you will get no less than TWELVE special newsletters a week on everything from the most important property stories to the most interesting travel tips.

And then there are Green and Health mailouts and a Saturday special from our Digital editor Walter Finch, plus a daily news update every day.

Want to know what’s happening across Spain, or just in your local area? We’ve got it covered. So why not sign up now, expand your horizons, and plug in to what’s really going on in Spain.

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FURS-T PRIZE

ployed) schemes and fraudulent VAT operations to create legitimate-looking income streams that wash narco profits. They rely on tightly closed, highly disciplined networks that make infiltration incredibly difficult for police.

It allows them to move enormous sums of illegal money out of Spain and into global markets, ensuring that the wealth generated from cocaine and cannabis can be spent legally.

Dutch and Lithuanian Gangs: The Amphetamine Highway While the Mocro Maffia dominates the cocaine trade, other Dutch and Lithuanian groups have moved in on the burgeoning synthetic drug market.

In Granada, these networks are intensely focused on the cannabis trade, replacing traditional family growers and defending their highly valuable, high-yield indoor plantations with firearms and sophisticated security setups. -

Congratulations to our readers who won our competition for tickets to see 70s British rock band the Psychedelic Furs in Malaga this week. An incredible 50 of you applied, with sadly, just three pairs of tickets.

Marcus Miller, of Heat Pump Suppliers, Malagueña Carmen Sanjuan and Malaga car dealer Alejandro Sanchez grabbed them – we hope you all had a wonderful time.

(right) Julio Zambrana

Juan Sahu-

Green steel

STEELMAKING giant ArcelorMittal has taken a significant step toward sustainable production by installing a green hydrogen combustion system at its Olaberria plant in Spain (pictured).

The new system replaces traditional natural-gas-fired reheating furnaces with units that use 100% green hydrogen oxyfuel, reducing the plant’s carbon footprint.

The project, developed in collaboration with Spanish company Sarralle and Nippon Gases, aims to decarbonize the energy-intensive process of heating steel blooms and billets for shaping.

While hydrogen is seen as a promising solution for low-carbon steelmaking, particularly for producing green virgin iron through direct reduced iron (DRI) processes, ArcelorMittal’s move in Olaberria contrasts with the company’s recent decision to turn down €1.3bn in subsidies for a hydrogen DRI conversion at its German plants.

The company cited high energy costs in Germany as a barrier.

Olaberria, which has a capacity of 0.95 million tons per year, primarily produces steel from scrap metal in an electric arc furnace.

The green hydrogen combustion technology marks a key milestone in the steel industry's path to decarbonization.

VULTURE FUND

A FOURTH flock of Spanish Griffon Vultures has taken to the skies over Cyprus as part of an ambitious conservation effort to save the island’s dwindling vulture population. After nine months in a specially designed aviary in Limassol, the final two vultures were released in mid-October, ready to join the existing population. Hailing from Andalucia, where their numbers remain stable, the vultures

Spanish birds used to bolster Cyprus Griffon Vulture population

By Dilip Kuner

were fitted with GPS trackers before being sent to Cyprus.

The Griffon Vulture, Cyprus’s largest bird of prey, has faced catastrophic threats in recent years, including poisoning and electrocution, causing the population to plummet to a mere 8-10 birds on the island by the early 2010s.

Recovering

However, thanks to conservation initiatives like the GYPAS and LIFE with Vultures funds, spearheaded by BirdLife Cyprus, the population is slowly recovering. But experts warn Cyprus still needs around 200 vultures for a sustainable future.

The Griffon Vultures, now soaring freely, will bolster the island’s current population of just 41. Spain, a conservation

powerhouse, has played a key role in these reintroductions. The Spanish Griffon Vultures are just the latest in a string of successful projects.

In the 1990s, after the Red Kite population in England had collapsed due to hunting and habitat loss, Spain played a crucial role by providing healthy, wild Red Kites from its own stable populations in regions like Castilla y Leon. These birds were reintroduced into England, where they have since thrived, with populations continuing to grow. Ironically, the English popula -

tion is now being used to repopulate the Extremaduran Red Kite population after it collapsed.

Private jet tax

SPAIN’S Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez has announced plans to tax private jets as part of his government’s efforts to tackle climate change. Speaking at the COP30 climate conference in Belem, Brazil, Sanchez revealed that Spain is working with other nations, including France, Kenya, and Barbados, to implement taxes on premium-class flights and private jets.

He argued: “It is only fair that those who have more – and pollute more – pay their fair share.”

The move has been welcomed by environmental activists, with Greenpeace calling it ‘an important step’ towards holding the sector accountable. A detailed plan on how the levies will be implemented is expected soon, with it expected that proceeds will be partly allocated to help climate-vulnerable nations.

Sanchez also highlighted the human and economic cost of climate change, which has claimed over 20,000 lives in Spain in the past five years and caused €44 billion in losses across the EU.

Speaking alongside Brazilian President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, Sanchez assured delegates that Spain remains a reliable ally in the fight against climate change, adding: “You can count on Spain.”

FEATHERED SUCCESS: Griffon vultures are starting to recover in Cyprus

All about errania de The onda S R

CAPTURED!

Ronda has struck the imagination of poets, artists, bullfighters and musicians for thousands of years, writes Dilip Kuner

RONDA doesn’t just appear; it confronts you. As the road bends, this captivating city leaps into view, rising like a white pearl surrounded by the rugged Andalucian countryside.

You know you are arriving somewhere special and this is confirmed when you begin to understand its geography: a hilltown named by the Romans as Arunda, meaning literally ‘surrounded by mountains’.

But Ronda, which is indeed encircled by sierras in every direction, is also a geologist’s dream, the city being hewn in two by a deep chasm carved by the Guadalevin River.

This adds to its complex history. Where the threads that make up the multicoloured fabric of Andalucia - Moorish architecture, Roman grandeur, bullfighting, poets and outlaws all happily intertwine.

Ronda is more than a destination; it’s a living chronicle where its stones feel the weight of centuries of stories.

The visceral experience of Ronda begins with the Tajo, the breathtaking gorge that rips through its centre and spreads out into a deep valley below. Spanning this monumental divide is the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge). It’s the physical and spiritual heart of the city and you can’t go near it without feeling the sheer, dizzying height.

Secret

The bridge’s very existence is rooted in a devastating secret. Before this stone marvel stood here, a precarious wooden trestle-bridge was the only link across the 300-foot drop.

In 1740, that wooden structure failed, and 50 innocent Rondeños plunged to their deaths. The 40 years it took to reconstruct it wasn’t just engineering; it was an act of collective will to ensure the community would never be divided again. Today, it stands as a testament to resilience, offering views so spectacular that locals claim, ‘the birds fly at the feet of those who look out’.

Ronda’s layout is a simple historical map: La Ciudad (the Old Town and former Moorish medina) sits on the south side, looking ancient and labyrinthine, while El Mercadillo (the modern commercial district) sits on the north.

Then down below, outside the charming Arabic Almocobar gate, sits the San Francisco neighbourhood alongside the medieval walls that once defended the entire fortress.

Long before the Puente Nuevo, Ronda was already holding the line: The Celtic tribe, the Bastuli, knew the early importance of this rocky outcrop for trade, perhaps even along ancient Atlantic routes. When the Romans arrived, the city quickly grew in stature. They developed a unique ‘twin’ settlement colony: the defensible Arunda and the even

DRAMATIC: Extraordinary view of the Tajo gorge from above, while (top right) the Foreign Legion carries a virgin over the Puente Nuevo at Easter

Ronda’s Best Sports Bar

ATMOSPHERIC: The perfectly preserved Arabic baths and Hemingway working in Ronda and (above) the Cathedral which was once a mosque

A TRIP BACK IN TIME

better fortified town of Acinipo (Old Ronda) some 15 minutes west.

Do take time to visit the tranquil ruins of Acinipo, where you can still find considerable remains of its impressive Roman theatre.

Imagine the life that thrived here: Roman author Pliny mentioned Ronda in his writing shortly before he died during the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, confirming its importance in ‘Baetica,’ Roman Southern Spain. Then came the Western Goths (or Visigoths). They were mainly farmers, and their brief period of wooden structures left little trace - a quiet interlude before the continent was changed forever.

800 years of Al-Andalus

The arrival of Muslim forces from Morocco in 711 AD transformed Ronda and dictated its destiny for eight centuries. It immediately became a powerful Arab city and fortress, and this influence remains palpably preserved today, especially in La Ciudad.

Stepping into the Old Town is like walking into a time capsule. It retains its original Arab street plan: a mesmerizing maze of narrow, winding lanes.

This wasn’t accidental architecture; it was highly practical, reflecting the ancient Arab proverb that ‘the sun is our enemy’.

The tight streets maximised shade and minimized the blistering summer heat, an effect enhanced by the beautiful geometric azulejos (tiles) used in the interiors.

The history here is one of constant friction. The area was central to the rebellion of the Muladis (Christians who converted to Islam) led by Omar Ben Hafsun, a fierce resistance that highlights how near-impossible it was to conquer this rocky perch.

The Arabic legacy didn’t just stay within the walls; it seeped into the

LAYERS OF HISTORY: From the so-called ‘Roman bridge’ to one of Ronda’s many ancient churches

From front page

very landscape. The local villages of the nearby Serrania still bear names like Arriate, Benaojan, Benadalid, and Farajan, all rooted in Arabic. Even the Spanish language spoken by the Rondeños carries the ancient heritage: when someone says ‘¡Ojala!’ (I wish!), they are invoking the name of the deity (Allah). And whether you believe it or not, some etymologists suggest the famous bullfight shout of ‘¡Olé!’ reveals those same ancestral Islamic links.

The Muslim era ended in 1485 when the Catholic Monarchs conquered the city (just seven years before the final push seized Granada) after a long struggle.

The peace was short-lived. The Christian rulers needed the talented Arab craftsmen, but the uneasy truce eventually broke down, leading to the brutal decree of forced conversion or expulsion.

Following a series of bloody uprisings by the Moriscos (converted Muslims), the final expulsion in 1571 ended a remarkable 700-year history, though pockets of resistance held out in the rugged nearby mountains for years.

What to visit: A walk through time

To understand this layered history, you must walk it. Your exploration should begin in El Mercadillo, the newer section of the city, where the monumental structure that demands attention is the Plaza de Toros de Ronda.

This is the oldest bullring in Spain and the undisputed birthplace of modern bullfighting, immortalised by the family of the legendary bullfighter Antonio Ordoñez (pictured top right), the man who defined its modern swagger and enjoyed the company of figures like Ava Gardner.

Its stunning, classical architecture speaks to the wealth of the 18th century, the same era that produced the Puente Nuevo. Nearby, you’ll find the Alameda del Tajo. This beautiful Spanish-style park is perfect for a leisurely stroll and greeting friends, and its unique views over the countryside make it essential viewing.

It has that wonderfully unique origin story: its construction in Napoleonic times was said to have been financed by a ‘swear box’! Anyone caught uttering curse words (palabrotas) had to contribute to the cost of the park.

Then you should cross the Puente Nuevo into the Old Town, and once in La Ciudad, the history becomes intimate. You are walking the Arab street plan, where key monuments whisper tales of conquest and nobility: Mondragon Palace: Once the residence of the Moorish king Abbel Malik, and later adapted by the Catholic nobility. Its beautiful Moorish-style courtyards and intricate tile work offer a visual testament to the fusion of cultures that followed the reconquest.

“ “ Its building in Napoleonic times is said to have been financed by a ‘swear box’!

ed outside the ancient Moorish walls, these baths are some of the best-preserved in all of Spain. They are a tranquil, atmospheric space that offers a quiet moment to reflect on the daily life of the city’s Muslim population a thousand years ago. Don’t forget to take the winding path down below the bridge to appreciate its staggering scale from the bottom of the gorge.

Poets, bandits, and Bohemian flair

Ronda’s dramatic setting has always ensured it is a magnet for artists, writers, and individuals living outside convention.

To walk its winding streets is to commune with romantic ghosts.

The impressive chronicle of literary and artistic authors - including Hemingway and Orson Welles - captivated by the city can be traced from ancient history to the present day.

Casa del Rey Moro (The House of the Moorish King): Despite its name, this palace was built after the Christians took Ronda, but it is famous for one unmissable feature: La Mina. This is a secret staircase of over 200 steps, carved directly down into the gorge during the Arab era. It was used to draw water and, in times of siege, to repel invaders. It is a staggering feat of defensive engineering that makes the walk down worth the effort.

Baños Arabes (Arab Baths): Locat-

Beyond Pliny, the list includes the poet-king of Sevilla, al-Mutamid; the Renaissance man and native of Ronda, Vicente Espinel, who is credited with inventing the modern Spanish guitar by adding a fifth string; and the Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who allegedly died after being pricked by the thorn of a rose, but who also had leukemia.

Perhaps the most poignant figure is Juan Ramon Jimenez, hounded by the Fascists, who famously confided his most secret thoughts only to his beloved mule, ‘Platero’.

The city’s allure extends to the vi-

sual arts: the English painter David Bomberg, described as the ‘poor

Jewish boy from London’, came here to create canvases bathed in Ronda’s intense golden light. He has had many followers. And let’s not forget the famous bandits (bandoleros) who thrived in the surrounding mountains, like the singing outlaw Tragabuches, whose tales still fuel Ronda’s vibrant folklore.

Tasting the Serrania: A final stroll

The city invites you to take a leisurely stroll, allowing you to appreciate in detail the features of the ancient Moorish medina, on the south bank of the Guadalevin River, which still preserves part of its walls, and to cross the Puente Nuevo, and stroll along the Alameda del Tajo, pausing in the nooks and crannies and monumental works that open their doors to visitors.

You can’t leave Ronda without experiencing its food - a robust celebration of the surrounding mountains and with plenty of talented local chefs.

The culinary highlight is undoubtedly bull’s tail (rabo de toro), a rich, slow-cooked beef speciality served in a thick, savoury gravy, while its top chef Benito Gomez now proudly sits on two Michelin stars with his restaurant Bardal. There are so many other great local talents, such as Leo, who recently opened his own sough dough bakery Kachopan (right). Alternatively, you can recharge your batteries by hopping from bar to bar to enjoy the infinite variety of tapas, small, inexpensive snacks perfectly paired with the region’s local wines…

and there are nearly 30 bodegas producing vino in the nearby hills. Ronda’s modern spirit is best captured in its festivals. The people here have a long memory for conflict, especially the French invasion in the early 1800s. Today, Ronda and its nearby villages celebrate their history with joyous, annual costumed re-enactments of the defeat of the French, accompanied by several days of genuine communal partying, featuring plenty of wine, music, and dancing. From the quiet history of the Roman theatre at Acinipo to the vibrant energy of the modern districts, Ronda is a city that has mastered the art of survival and cultural fusion. It is a bold, unforgettable piece of history that continues to live right on the edge of the world.

LANDSCAPE AND LEGENDS: Ronda is classic walking territory, as well as the perfect place to get married

LOCAL HERO: Torero Antonio Ordonez

ARTISANS: Mother dough bakers at recently-opened Kachopan

Photos by Jon Clarke

And

ROMAN RONDA A

BANDIT TERRITORY

THE Serrania was once a major stronghold for bandoleros (bandits) and the tiny towns of Benaojan and Montejaque were famously where many holed up.

But there is much more, such as the Cueva de la Pileta, near Montejaque (left), which has the oldest cave paintings in Spain, while Benaojan is the centre of the ham and sausage industry. There is also a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion down the river to Jimera de Libar, from where you can get the train back. At each end is a great lunch spot, with hotel Molino del Santo, when open in season, the obvious pick.

THE historic Roman town of Setenil de las Bodegas is a real eye opener and amazing for photography. Nestled in the rolling landscape, 20 minutes out of Ronda, it was built around a series of caves, which served to keep the wines of the Romans cool in summer, hence its name. It is best to leave your car outside the town, wander up to the old fortress before heading down to the famous overhanging cave for a fine tapas lunch.

THE STARCK EFFECT

15-minute drive from Ronda takes you to the ancient city of Acinipo, where the Romans built another ancient settlement

The highest hill for miles around, it still has much evidence of their skills with a large part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot more to look at, not to mention the views. The visitor centre is only open for the morning, but one can always climb up to the amphitheatre out of hours.

T cost well over 20 million and will hopefully create something of a ‘Guggenheim Effect’ for Ronda.

That is Philippe Starck’s amazing new organic olive mill.

A towering six-storey 40-metre giant made of concrete and steel it peers out over the beautiful Serrania like a beacon.

Built over four years, La Almazara - shaped in the head of a Picasso-style bull - is the largest and easily the most original in Europe.

Created by legendary designer Starck, it's a fully functioning mill, as well as museum that currently makes extra virgin organic olive

Into the abyss

The Olive Press dives down into the Desfiladero del Tajo which will be one of Andalucia’s key highlights in 2026

IT will be one of the most exciting adventures for tourists in 2026.

When Ronda’s Desfiladero del Tajo is finally completed by early Spring it is expected to become as popular as the famous Caminito del Rey.

While not quite as hair-raising as the death-defying walkway near Antequera, the Ronda attraction will be more scenic and far more interesting for history lovers.

Giving tourists an incredible way to see the depths of the town’s breathtaking Tajo gorge, they will be led on a walkway from one side of the town to the other.

Starting from the historic old town, visitors initially walk down to the bottom of the famous Puente Nuevo, before being led along the side of the gorge and finally, all the way to the amazing Arabic baths.

Stretching 750 metres in length it will allow visitors to see the Guadalevin river and all its sluice gates and anti-flood measures up close and feel the magnitude of the impressive gorge from below.

Visitors can already do half the route by descending from the Mirador de Maria Auxilidora, down 100 steps to the entrance, where you purchase tickets for €5 and get handed an audioguide in various languages.

Apart from oddly having to wear a hair-net and a hard hat, you can currently walk down 250 metres to the foot of the famous bridge, which was finished in 1793.

It is the newest and largest of three bridges that span the 120-metre-deep (390 ft) chasm, cut through by the Guadalevin River.

From above, it is hard to appreciate the magnitude of this imposing 98m structure, but standing at its base gives you an awe-inspiring sense

of its huge size.

Its construction began in 1759 and took 34 years featuring three upper arches and two giant pillars.

It’s an impressive stone construction and for two centuries it was the world’s highest bridge - and incredibly, it’s still open to traffic in both directions.

The bridge features a chamber above the central arch which was once used as a prison and during the Spanish Civil War became a torture chamber.

Some of the unlucky victims ended up being thrown from its windows to the river and rocks below.

For those nervous of vertigo, fear not, as it isn’t suspended over the river, meaning it does not have terrifying high metal bridges like the Caminito del Rey. Visitors are only obliged to wear hard hats due to the danger of falling rocks, though there is also a metal roof to shield walkers. The only real danger is tripping over on the steps as you fiddle with your audio guide. At the end of the trail, there are also two amazing viewpoints from where you can enjoy the view and snap some insta-worthy pictures before heading back up into town.

WALKWAY: A brand new must-visit path has been carved into the side of the Tajo gorge

NEW RONDA IN THE

The Genal Valley’s incredible copper forest is the perfect winter escape, especially to visit its amazing black pigs, writes

Jon Clarke

WE had driven up to the high point of Jose’s 340 hectare farm that straddles some of the wildest countryside in all of Andalucia.

For as far as the eye could see was greenery - a wondrous mix of pines, chestnuts and oaks - and a few white dots that were the distant villages of Farajan and Juzcar.

We had come to visit his black Iberian pigs who were predictably, nowhere to be seen.

And then out came a horn with a deep guttural sound that reverberated miles around the valley. At first nothing, then slowly a distant rustle turned into a heavy rumble and suddenly out of the undergrowth trooped perhaps three dozen black Iberian pigs.

Delighted to see him they came over to say hello and then jumped into a big muddy pond right beside us.

“They love it to de-stress and cool down,” he tells me, adding they were easily the ‘happiest, most contented’ pigs in the world. And who was I to argue.

It turns out Jose’s business LanGenal only has around 160 of these wonderful free range pigs… and in order to be able to produce the best quality ‘Jamon Iberico de Bellota’ he cannot have many more.

“There are only enough acorns and chestnuts to go around and the rules are strict,” he explains. “Luckily we also have other delicacies for them such as wild olives that are out in abundance this year. They are spoiled for choice” It certainly seemed so and the end result back at base was easily some of the nicest jamon I’ve eaten this year.

And no wonder, with Jose sending his pigs all the way to Guijuelo, near Salamanca, for a ‘humane’ slaughter and in order to dry them for an incredible three to years, before they are sent back to him to sell.

It’s a horribly long wait to get a return on his investment and he needs to buy up to 200 piglets each year to fatten up.

Now in his family for nearly a century, Jose is the third generation to work as a pig farmer and tells me he needs to now do tours of the estate with wine and tapas at the end in order to keep things going.

Jose sends his pigs all the way to Salamanca to be dried over five years

WPREACHING THE BLUES

HILE it’s about as stunning as any of the pretty villages around Ronda, there is one big difference with Juzcar… it’s largely blue. This is thanks to the Smurf movie that in 2011 decided to use the tiny village as the mythical base of the tiny creatures. It has been used a handful of times since and voted to stay blue some years back. But apart from the many attractions for kids, based around the movie, it is also the perfect place for a walk and to see Griffon vultures and crag martins.

“I had 12 Dutchmen from Torremolinos this morning,” he adds. “They absolutely loved it and couldn’t believe that there is somewhere so wild just an hour inland from the coast.”

As autumn sets in and temperatures drop, the Genal Valley, between the Costa del Sol and Ronda, becomes a vibrant patchwork of reds, oranges and yellows.

Nowhere is this more true than the ‘Copper Forest’ as golden leaves fall to the ground and blanket forest floors.

You begin to see it when you are three quarters of the way up the incredible mountain road (A397) from Marbella.

It comes as one of the best mountain views in Spain, two rows of stunning peaks meandering off into the distance over 50km away. Below you is the Genal Valley and while you could turn off early at Puerto El Madrono, you’ll miss the drama of seeing the huge sea of chestnut woods appearing as a backdrop.

Better to push on and take the turn off just before the Mirador de la Rueda and head down towards the formerly Moorish villages of Igualeja and Pujerra.

As you round the corner to Pujerra, an explosion of saffron, ochre and terracotta literally leaps out of the evergreen mass.

This is part of the so-called Bosque de Cobre which begins just a short walk out of the village and stretches as far as many of the nearby towns, including Cartajima and Parauta.

Stroll out from any of these villages - 12 in totaland you will soon find yourself in corridors of amber trees rippled through with sunlight on sunny days.

FALL

DRIVE: The winding roads snake through the copper-coloured trees

The forest twists like layers of gold ribbon around the small hill, so you’re sure to work up a sweat as you wander, enchanted by the leaves dropping slowly to the ground from mid November to early December.

Best place to stay

Looking for the best place to stay, make sure you book at Los Castanos in Cartajima, run by the award-winning hoteliers Frank and Antje.

This German pair arrived here a few years back with a few decades of political experience under their

belts back at home and in Brussels and with two kids in tow. They are the masters of looking after their guests with a superb breakfast and a ‘surprise dinner’ in advance and there is a great selection of local wines.

“The hotel as a whole should feel like home as soon as you walk in,” explains Frank, who trained as a lawyer in the UK before going into politics in Brussels. “Not fancy, but special and we offer our guests a 3-course surprise dinner every evening with influences from Israel, Greece, Italy, Morocco and especially Andalucia.”

INDUSTRY: Jose summons his pigs (top) while (above) his father and grandfather

Spanish Immersion

Take a journey beyond the classroom with Hotel Los Castanos

THEY are the most incredible language courses in classic Andalucian scenery.

Created alongside Ronda’s celebrated Entrelenguas school, the week-long immersion courses in Cartajima guarantee you’ll be picking up the lingo in no time.

Even better, you enjoy all the amenities of the Los Castanos hotel, while improving your Spanish by at least one level, far away from the hustle and bustle of the costas.

A charming village where absolutely no-one speaks English, you will have to use what you have learned right away.

“We aim to bring you closer to rural Andalucia in all its facets,” explains Antje, a German politician, from Dresden, who has also worked in tourism for many years.

“After the language lessons we offer you different activities on each learning day. We will go out with you to experience the local way of life away from the main tourist attractions.

“You can learn about the village, the breeding and care of the famous Iberian pigs and learn about Spain’s export number one - olive oil.

“We will hike in the nearby chestnut and cork forests and visit typical Spanish bars for a bite to eat. You will learn more about how to prepare tapas and get to know the best wines of the region at a tasting.

“All activities will fit in with and complement your language lessons. We will always have someone there to help you if you have any doubts.

“The courses will take place in our hotel and breakfast and dinner will be served here as well. During the breaks you can relax on our roof terrace or have a typical siesta.”

The groups are normally just for six to eight people and the hotel can offer flexible dates for small groups. Visit: https://loscastanos. com/en/article/46.spanish-language-andlife.html

HIDEAWAY IN THE HEART

CALLE IGLESIA, 42, 29452 CARTAJIMA, MALAGA RESERVATIONS@LOSCASTANOS.COM • +34 621 288 373

So much more at Moyla

AT last Arriate has a proper shop selling the best quality foods and wines from around the Serrania. Run by local lad, Abel Lara (pictured) and his wife Maria Jose, it has the best quality hams, amazing cheeses and just about every other delicacy you can think of.

Called Moyla, you will find it in the industrial estate, with an adjoining cafe serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday. A great selection of wines by the glass and cold beers on tap are served up with a range of dishes. Make sure to try the amazing ta from nearby LanGenal in Farajan. And buy a leg if you can afford it for Christmas.

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While billed as the ‘village of love’, it’s the amazing new

that should be your number one reason to visit

In search of

Cupid

IT bills itself as the ‘village of love’ and encourages people to take a visit to cement their relationship or, who knows, perhaps get smitten. Either way, it is hard not to fall in love with Arriate, a charming white village that has no less than half a dozen songs in honour of its patron saint St.Valentine.

By Jon Clarke

links to the fated Greek god of lovemaking, Eros, who later became known as Cupid in Roman times.

“

These include a circular bench designed for lovers as well as a giant Cupid’s arrow that doubles as the perfect viewing spot.

er Anet, who is a photographer by trade, who studied Geography at University. “It’s this natural way of life we want to promote to anyone thinking of visiting the area.” It is certainly a journey back through a land that time forgot, and you must look out for the extraordinary converted mill, which is easily one of the most interesting architectural gems of the Serrania.

Enveloped in seductive mountains and with some of the warmest locals in Spain, if Cupid’s arrow is to strike anywhere this should be the place to bring a loved one for a long and (hopefully) dirty weekend.

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It was why Ernest Hemingway fell so in love with the Serrania de Ronda (he famously shouted from the rooftops about it being an aphrodisiac) and Arriate has long been linked to lovemaking.

“ A four kilometre circular walk that leads from the village up into the amazing hidden valley

You can actually take a tour around the village following in the footsteps of Valentina, a lovestruck stork, who has been nesting in a high chimney stack for decades, frequently reappearing with a new mate.

And, best of all, is a new museum almost exactly half way round at the top, that also now doubles as a bar and cafe. Called Arqueta de Peter, it serves a nice mix of snacks and has the most amazing cold beers. Even better, there is a museum on its top floor plus a series of old maps explaining the area. Once back in the village you will, no doubt, be ready for a proper lunch (or supper if you are staying the night)… and you are spoilt for choice.

However, there is another, even more exciting reason to visit Arriate these days; the wonderful walk up its river towards the Sierra de las Nieves National Park.

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Hotel and Restaurant – Booking System Installation

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It was in fact on February 14, 1630, that its enterprising locals coughed up a sizable 352,739 Maravedies (the currency back then) in order to buy their independence from nearby Ronda.

Hidden valley

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Calle Sevilla, 58, 29400, Ronda, Málaga 952 87 24 63 info@clinica-pc.es

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An important day, it meant the village was finally able to take charge of its destiny. And that it certainly did.

Keeping on the romantic tip, Los Caireles is a lovely conversion of the 1940s Cine Ideal, that is somehow still intact out back. It shut in 1988 due to dwindling audiences and firstly became a flamenco venue, before becoming a restaurant, with much of its original memorabilia, advertising and cameras still around. Even more romantic is the restaurant, El Muelle, run by Dutch expat Frank Rottgering, who converted this amazing 100-year-old railway

THE PARTY TOWN

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Distinctly different to Rondawhose municipal boundaries actually surround it making it an island - its locals sound different, look different and even think differently.

For starters they have their own public holiday on St.Valentine’s day and now the town hall has even declared it Andalucia’s official ‘Pueblo de Amor’.

Then there is the mythical local band, the Auroreros, who famously go round in the middle of the night serenading people with them.

But take a poke around and you will find a dozen other

A four kilometre circular walk that leaves from the village up into the amazing hidden valley, the Arroyo de la Ventilla, and then comes back a different way.

The little-known gorge - a mini version of Ronda’s Tajo - is crammed full of flora and fauna, including orchids, eagles and even wild animals including genets and stoats.

Even more interesting are the cave houses carved into the vertical sandstone cliffs and other evidence of man that goes back way before the Romans.

“It’s a breathtaking space and a real adventure for anyone looking for a genuine escape,” explains mayor Francisco Javi-

Arriate is famous for its love of partying and ferias, Semana Santa in particular, which is known throughout Spain for its intensity

Other ferias are the Romeria in Spring, the Dia de la Vieja, a day when all the pensioners are taken out to the countryside, and the now famous Fiesta en el Aire, which takes place in October and sees around 40,000 visitors this year. The latest fiesta to be added to the list was the idea of councillor Carmen Orozco, who introduced amazing Christmas lights and a fun evening of artificial snow on Dec 6.

Arroyo de la Ventilla walk

Arriate

by

building.

He has a wonderful eye for detail and you will certainly get a roaring fire and candles in winter and the most romantic terrace for the sunset in summer.

Other places worth looking out for in town are Bar Kpri, that has a nice terrace and MalagaCana, which sits in the heart of town by the old church.

The best place to stay by far is Alcantarilla (www.alcantarilla.co.uk) a beautiful country estate with extraordinary gardens, just a short walk out of the village.

The three-bedroom cottage comes with a log-burning stove, candles and bath products, plus a pool table when you want a break from the romance.

WEDNESDAY TO SATURDAY | LUNCH AND DINNER SUNDAY | LUNCH ONLY

LOVESTRUCK: Star-crossed lovers kiss on a giant bench, while a tourist takes a pew on the love bench in hope of finding Cupid

CIRCULAR: The Arroyo de la Ventilla hike takes in the amazing bar/museum Arqueta de Peter

Photos

Jon Clarke

tel: +34 657 03 16 87

Calle Las Tiendas, Número 28 Plaza Carmen Abela, 29400 Ronda

JOYOUS: Ruben and a dish at Mi Manuela, Martin at Kutral and Javi at Taberna Almacen

MASTERCHEF

IT might seem counterintuitive but you need to head deeper and deeper into the industrial estate to find one of the true secrets of Ronda. This is Kutral, the spiritual home of Argentinian Martin Abramzon, who trained at three Michelin star Martin Berasategui in the Basque country, before falling in love and making Ronda his home.

An incredibly hip spot, which you’ll definitely need to book, this is where those-in-theknow come for easily the best steak you can eat in town.

The exposed brick, high ceilings, and contemporary lighting create an exciting, yet intimate, dining experience.

Kutral, which fittingly means ‘fire’ or ‘hearth’, is built around a monumental Argentinian-style parilla (grill) where the magic really happens.

Martin offers up the best prime cuts, which are then expertly cooked over an open flame, imbuing them with a distinct, smoky depth.

But it’s a lot more than just steaks and you must expect some good local vegetable dishes, plus naturally the best empanadas around, not to mention splendid wines.

One of the best travelled foodies about, Martin knows the Spanish restaurant scene inside out and, no surprise, having run the kitchen in Ronda’s once-famous Michelin star joint Tragabuches.

He has also cooked for many celebrities, including Gareth Bale, Robert de Niro and Cristiano Ronaldo, both in Marbella and the nearby hills, but don’t expect him to tell you about it.

“It’s not me but Ronda that’s the real star,” he insists.

“There are so many good places to eat now and gastronomically we are offering more and more variety.”

He is certainly right, with the mountain town where I have lived for two decades completely changing in that time.

Since launching the Olive Press newspaper in Ronda in 2006 it has become a real melting pot at the end of the restaurant rainbow.

A cauldron of top quality ingredients and a chopping board

The Ronda dining scene has developed into one of Spain’s finest in the two decades I have lived there, writes Olive Press editor Jon Clarke

of talents, the Serrania de Ronda really has it all.

Having travelled far and wide to interview Spain’s best chefs - and usually trying their food - few places equal the joy of a tapas tour in Ronda in the heart of winter.

And if you want a proper blow up seat down meal you’ve got places like Bardal with two Michelin stars and Pedro Romero, which has been serving up the best Rabo de Toro in Spain for nearly half a century.

Top of the pile by some length is the kitchen of Benito Gomez at Bardal.

A Catalan dynamo, who has long been tipped as Spain’s next Three Michelin star maestro, his kitchen is a true reflection of the very best of the Serrania.

Having trained under Ferran Adria (from Spain’s famous El Bulli), he moved to Ronda via a stint at Adria’s sister restaurant Hacienda Benazuza, in Sanlucar la Mayor, near Sevilla. It was there around 2010 that I had, possibly, my most memorable meal in Spain… a 25-course masterclass, basically one dish for every year Adria had been in charge of El

I’ve eaten at Bardal various times before it got a star and since it won two and, there is no doubt, Benito is approaching that legendary meal… and if it is just a taster you are after, try his diffusion restaurant, Tragata, just around the corner.

Close by are, no less, than four other joints where the chefs have worked at leading Michelin star restaurants.

Javier Pimentel at Taberna Almacen is easily the most approachable, a man who lives and breathes food and is continually changing and upgrading his menu.

He learned from the godfather of Spanish cuisine, Pedro Subijana, at Akelarre in San Sebastian, a true cathedral of three star cuisine.

Next it was off to hone his skills with Malaga’s leading chef, Dani Carnero, of Kaleja, before he found his own furrow to plough in Ronda. This central spot is always busy and, particularly with locals, thanks to its exceptionally keen pricing, and I love his soups and stews, plus the fact he always has four or five specials every day, things like smoky baba ganoush, with

Bulli.

TOP OF THE PILE: Benito Gomez at Bardal with Jon Clarke

MOUNTAIN

fried sweet potato chips, dried carrots and bananas.

His ‘Mollete de Benaojan’ is a lip-smacking mini-bocadillo of blue cheese and local Iberian ham.

Garcia’s three Michelin star restaurant in Marbella, and before that, Tragabuches in Ronda.

lived.

The most exciting new talent in Ronda meanwhile, is Jose Luis Pascual, who is another well travelled chef, who’s done his time in Michelin kitchens.

I love his fried prawn taco with onion guacamole and kimchi mayonnaise and a tuna tempura taco with a twist of lime. Both offer a taste explosion in the mouth.

“

His highly-rated Quinto Tramo, which is the current hip spot for locals, is the very essence of Ronda style. Aside from the bullfighting memorabilia, esparto lamps and black and white photos, the menu is heavy on local dishes and ingredients.

This was where Jose’s parents long ran a hat shop in town (it opened nearly a century ago) and he and his brother have now finally taken over the space.

“ The dishes have hardly changed in decades with classics like bulls cheek (carillada) and oxtail

Another, seasoned culinary traveller is Jose junior at Tropicana, where Jose Sanchez junior and his dad in the kitchen run a popular joint. Jose junior also learnt his trade under famous three Michelin star genius Martin Berasategui in the Basque Region, although he learnt it in the sala.

It is what one might call bijoux in real estate terms but it certainly has ambience with quality food to match.

Everything is beautifully presented on branded grease paper and Jose is a perfectionist having done his time at Dani

It is a charming place to sit and expect to have plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free dishes on the menu, plus a decent number of specials, including a heart-warming bowl of tripe with onions and chorizo.

Nearby you will find charming Mi Manuela, in Plaza Carmen Abela, near to where the celebrated writer Cervantes once

The friendly young local couple who run it have some good ideas, a fabulous eye and offer great value. They are always doing specials by the day and the variety of rice dishes is worth checking out.

Best of all, was the amazing freshest mango and avocado salad with prawns, brought out by chef Ruben himself.

The wine list is good, while sitting in the plaza offers the right atmosphere for the perfect meal.

For tradition, you must obviously head to Pedro Romero, right opposite the bullring and about as classical as you can find.

Almost always busy and full of bullfighting memorabilia, it is named after the matador who founded modern bullfighting and put Ronda on the map.

A family business of three generations, it is currently bossed by brothers Carlos and Tomas, and their two daughters, while their grandfather, 90, still pops in to give some advice.

The dishes have hardly changed in decades and classics like bulls cheek (carillada) and oxtail (rabo de toro) are among the best you will eat in Spain. The bean soup starter turns Continues on next page

STARRY RISE: Jose Luis Pascal at Quinto Tramo and his brother Maitre Paco (left)

Atmospheric and delicious

out to be the most hearty of dishes imaginable with chorizo, ham, bacon, black pudding and even more goodness that you can shake a carrot at.

If it is wine you are looking for, meanwhile, don’t miss Entre Vinos, which has over 100 wines (yes 100!) from Ronda, with more than a dozen wines by the glass.

There are some excellent tapas and it’s a charming place to while away a few hours, particularly on warm days on the terrace outside.

Make sure you try the warm pastrami bocadillo if it’s available as it is literally oozing goodness with avocado, lettuce and mustard.

Nearby is Siempre Igual, which is exactly that

‘Always the same’, it’s a bloody excellent place to enjoy tapas and some excellent wine with friends.

Run by a friendly family team from Cadiz, they always have some experimental new dishes and plenty of tables in the street to soak up the atmosphere.

Looking for the best local produce you should head down to Barrafina, in an incredibly charming spot just inside the old Arabic city wall, down by the historic Almocabar gate.

Run by Spain’s former ham-cutting champion Juan Ramirez Gil, himself the son of the town’s first wine merchant, it focuses heavily on top quality ingredients.

Aside from the best ham in Ronda, the goat’s cheeses from Grazalema are spectacular, while the tuna tartare and beef tataki are superb. Dishes like pulled pork brioche with dates and walnuts and a burrata with pesto and amazing local tomatoes on toast.

Next door in charming Barrio San Francisco square you’ll love Bar la Plaza, which is where Joaquin runs a tight ship running between his bar and the dozen or so perfectly sited tables in the shady square.

BEST IN SPAIN: The Rabo de Toro at Pedro Romero, while (below) Talwinder at Bombay Spice

BIG BOSSES: Tomas and Carlos at Pedro Romero, the most classic of Ronda’s restaurants

From previous page

QUALITY: Boss at

Not just amazing value, this friendly chap from nearby Algodonales, serves up excellent value hot and cold tapas from just €1.70 each.I particularly love his ‘salad of all life’ which doesn’t really do it justice, which is his version of Russian salad. I also loved his delicious callos (or tripe) for just €3, coming with black pudding and chorizo.

You should also try his meat dishes such as rabo de toro, which he slow cooks every day from the minute he opens.

And finally, if you are really looking for something exotic, take a look at Bombay Spice.

Opened by Talwinder, who learnt his trade up on the Costa Blanca, it is a popular choice in the heart of town.

Specialising in Indian food from the subcontinent it will not disappoint.

Marvellous Muelle

If you’ve never eaten in a railway restaurant then you are in for a big surprise. Not only is El Muelle, in Arriate, very much the first class carriage, but this is a train to your taste buds. This all thanks to Dutchman Frank Rottgering, whose legendary joint sees regulars drive all the way from the coast and even Sevilla to eat each week.

Highly rated on Tripadvisor and it’s not hard to see why, it being both charming and atmospheric in equal measures.

Chef Isa is as popular with foreigners and tourists, as the locals, who love her generous servings and ability to change by the month and always offer specials of the day.

But there is simply no substitute for Frank himself, who is easily the most talented restaurateur in the Serrania, enthusiastic, inquisitive and interesting.

Siempre Igual and Juan shows off a dish at Barrafina (also below)

ENGROSSED: In wine and food at Entre Vinos (below 0left and far left) and (below) charming El Muelle

SILENT LUXURY

IT feels like the home of a Roman senator, while its arrival reminded me of a scene from Eyes Wide Shut

But while Stanley Kubrick would no doubt approve of this hidden world of the wealthy, Cortijo del Canto is actually the creation of an Argentinian architect.

Part Andalucian cortijo, part South American estancia, it is easily the most privileged place to stay in Ronda.

Hidden away in a giant private estate, ten minutes out of town, it is no surprise to learn recent guests have included Robert de Niro and Antonio Banderas.

They would have felt entirely cocooned in this fantasy world, now run by Marbella’s most exclusive five-star hotel group, Puente Romano.

Surrounded by lush grounds of centenario oaks and vines and with a grand fountain for arrival, it is the sort of place you slowly sink into and wish

Ronda’s Cortijo del Canto is a true fantasy escape, where privacy is coupled with nature and history, writes Jon Clarke

you never had to leave.

Set around a courtyard of wisteria and African lilies, its six ensuite bedrooms open out into private landscaped gardens full of lavender, rosemary and ancient olives. Its myrtle hedges doff their cap at the Alhambra, while its terracotta colours and matching pots are the true authentic colours of inland Andalucia.

The brainchild of architect Paco Guillen, who moved to Marbella from Buenos Aires in 1981, he had almost a blank slate when he started working on the property two decades ago.

Mixing what he learnt from the University of Buenos Aires, his design philosophy is rooted in the concept of ‘silent luxury’, as he describes it.

A principle mixing minimalism, functionality and the integration into natural surroundings, it means a building cannot just be aesthetically pleasing but must also tailor to its guests.

That it certainly does, including the carefully curated open areas, with state-of-the-art sound systems and TVs, all well hidden behind screens, while the heating system makes it incredibly comfortable in winter. There is naturally an open fire, candles and plenty of good books to read, while the kitchen and dining area is impressive and the fridges are stacked to the brim with drinks and snacks.

But the most exciting discovery is the wine cellar.

Part of an ancient farmhouse, which officially dates back to 1920, it is a huge underground water deposit - known as an aljibe in Arabic times - with a spiral staircase leading down to a giant circular rack of vintage wines, many from France.

Set across 16 hectares, the ‘resort’ also counts on a delightful pool, cinema and its own vineyard.

The Heredad del Canto estate was once a giant 300 hectare estate, which had its own school for the workers’ children, as well as its own train station.

The grounds offer plenty of walks, while you can borrow bikes, or alternatively organise a driver to take you into nearby Ronda for a tour.

A private butler service, chef and masseur can be provided on request. Guests can also be treated to private flamenco shows, olive oil tastings, and yoga classes.

“And you can make as much noise as you want here,”

LUXURY: The villa is set up to five-star standards both inside and outside

explains the manager. “Nobody

plain.”

Costing from €10.000 a night -

the

For more information visit www.hotel.puenteromano.com/stay/villa-el-canto/

Ronda Properties Estate Agent

Inland Andalusia, c/San José, 1 29400, Ronda, Malaga, Spain

Tel: (+34) 952 187 313 Mob: (+34) 608 765 990 Email: info@rondaproperties.com www.rondaproperties.com Established in 2006 we

House, El Gastor, Cadiz

This elegant property offers an exceptional quality of life, surrounded by landscapes of great beauty and serenity. The house has four large bedrooms and two full bathrooms. The bright and cozy living-dining room is the perfect place to enjoy unforgettable moments, complemented by a modern kitchen with American bar that combines functionality and style. The house includes a cozy fireplace and a private pool from where you can admire stunning views, considered among the 50 most beautiful natural landscapes in the world.

Bedrooms: 4

Bathrooms: 2

Build: 145m2 Plot: 0m2

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Located in the heart of the historic center of Ronda, this charming house combines the character of traditional Andalusian architecture with the comfort of a modern residence. Distributed on several floors, the property has 4 large bedrooms, 3 full bathrooms, a bright terrace ideal for enjoying the local climate and a cozy living room with fireplace, perfect for winter nights. One of the most outstanding elements is the beautiful handmade wooden staircase, which brings warmth and personality to the interior, harmoniously connecting the different levels of the house.

Bedrooms: 4 Bathrooms: 3

Build: 746m2 Plot: 14,025m2

Located in a privileged natural environment a few minutes from the center of Ronda, this spectacular farm offers the perfect balance between tranquility, comfort and space, with a total area of 16,476 m² of land. The main house has 5 spacious bedrooms, 2 full bathrooms, a functional kitchen and a cozy living room with fireplace. The exterior is not far behind: it has a private pool, in addition to a covered garage, warehouse, and its own well, which guarantees water supply throughout the year.

Bedrooms: 5 Bathrooms: 2

Build: 99m2 Plot: 16.476m2

1

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RONDA

November 29thDecember 12th 2023

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Culture war

SPAIN is marking 50 years since the death of notorious dictator Francisco Franco, but instead of healing, the country’s still grappling with deep cultural and political divisions over his brutal legacy.

Franco died in his bed on November 20, 1975, aged 82, after a 36-year reign of terror. His regime, which followed the bloody Spanish Civil War, was marked by imprisonment, torture, and exile for anyone who dared to oppose him.

Half a century after Franco’s death, Spain is divided over how to remember the man who shaped the nation with fear, repression and violence

By Dilip Kuner

tatorship, but a surprising number - especially young people - still think it wasn’t all bad.

Experts blame so-

PALS: Franco greeted Hitler in Spain, but refused to join the war

cial media and poor education for the rise of a ‘revisionist’ narrative about Franco.

MASTER LOAN

A recent poll shows most Spaniards condemn the dic-

The dictator seized power with the help of Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy, wiping out Spain’s fledgling democracy. Since his death, Spain’s path to democracy has been anything but smooth. A 1977 amnesty was supposed to help heal the wounds, but critics say it swept the country’s dark past under the rug. Now, 50 years later, the dust is still there - and it's still stirring up a storm.

For Picasso exhibition

THE

“It’s an education problem,” says political scientist Paloma Roman. “Younger generations

A FAMOUS Picasso painting, Estudio con cabeza de yeso, has been loaned from New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) to Malaga’s Picasso Museum for its latest exhibition, Picasso: Memoria y Desea.

The 1925 painting, one of Picasso's most celebrated works, explores the tension between his cubist style and his pursuit of classicism. The artwork features a bearded bust alongside a sculpture’s remains, a book, and other objects.

According to exhibition curator Eugenio Carmona, the painting reflects Picasso’s transformation during this period, where the boundaries between modernity and classicism blurred. Carmona pairs Picasso’s work with that of 111 other 20th-century artists to explore themes of memory, desire, and political tension.

The exhibition, which opened last week, runs until April 12, 2026, at the Museo Picasso Malaga.

don’t know the full story and can easily be sucked into a false narrative.”

The political battle over Franco's memory is heating up, with the left-wing government

under Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez pushing to honour the dictator’s victims. They’ve exhumed his remains and started removing Francoist symbols from public spaces. But the conservative opposition isn’t having it, accusing Sánchez of ‘reopening old wounds’ to distract from his own scandals. Meanwhile, far-right groups are holding memorials for Franco, stirring up even more tension. On the other side, anti-fascist protests are set to follow. It's clear - Spain’s bitter cultural clash over Franco’s legacy is far from over.

NAZI ART

CALIFORNIA is once again fighting in US federal court to return a valuable Camille Pissarro painting, looted by the Nazis, to the Cassirer family.

The painting, Rue Saint-Honoré in the Afternoon. Effect of Rain (above), was seized from Lilly Cassirer in 1939, and after WWII, the family received compensation, though far below its current value.

The artwork ended up in the collection of Spain's Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid, where it remains today.

California's Attorney General, Rob Bonta, has intervened to defend a state law requiring the return of stolen art, a law passed to support families like the Cassirers.

The law, which was contested by the museum, faced legal challenges, but Bonta argues it upholds fairness and moral responsibility.

The case, ongoing for two decades, is being closely watched for its potential to set a new precedent in international looted art disputes.

EURO MISTAKE

Why So Many Expats Are Gambling with Their Health Abroad

IF you live in Spain or elsewhere in Europe and are travelling abroad, there’s a good chance you’ve tucked your EHIC or GHIC card into your wallet and assumed you’re covered should the worst happen.

But according to a new survey by Staysure Expat, nearly 15% of English-speaking expats wrongly believe those cards give them full medical cover when travelling to the UK or across Europe.

What do the EHIC and GHIC Cover?

In reality, the European and Global Health Insurance Cards offer limited protection. They cover access to emergency state-provided healthcare, and nothing more. That means no private medical treatment, no repatriation if you need to be flown home, and no extras such as mountain rescue or private ambulance services.

The True Cost of a Medical Emergency

Even expats who return temporarily to the UK can face problems.

The NHS may not cover some treatments.

Without valid travel insurance, a sudden illness or accident could lead to thousands in medical bills — or leave you stranded overseas without a way home.

The financial impact can be devastating. Repatriation alone can bey very costly.

Last year, Staysure Expat paid out over 90,000 Euros on just one repatriation. Also, don’t forget the costs of lost luggage, cancelled flights, or other travel disruptions.

EHIC and GHIC Are No Substitute for Travel Insurance

“It’s worrying how many people assume their EHIC or GHIC will cover everything,” says Simon McCullock, Chief Growth Officer at Staysure.

He explained: “These cards are useful for accessing emergency state healthcare, but they’re no substitute for travel insurance.

Without full cover, you could face both financial and emotional distress if something goes wrong.

We are seeing a growing trend of older travellers with pre-existing conditions travelling further and more often, leading

to an increase in the frequency of these distressing stories. It’s important to understand the limitations of a GHIC card. Proper travel insurance can also provide protection in case of holiday cancellation, lost baggage and other risks to give allround peace of mind.”

The Hidden Risks for Expats in Spain

The issue goes even further for those living in Spain.

Many expats don’t realise that when taking out insurance, it’s their responsibility to declare circumstances without prompt — for example, medical conditions when buying travel insurance.

In the UK, insurers are required to ask health questions explicitly, but in Spain, that onus shifts to the customer.

Failing to disclose a condition could invali-

date a claim or severely limit your cover.

“When it comes to travel insurance, living in Spain, the onus is on the customer to be upfront about their health,” Simon adds. “At Staysure, we offer full medical screening, ensuring that at the point of need we can provide the cover that’s required — so you’ll have the peace of mind that you need.”

Peace of Mind for Expats

Staysure Expat, part of the award-winning Staysure Group with over 20 years of experience providing specialist insurance for British travellers and expats, offers tailored policies designed to meet the unique needs of those living abroad.

Whether you’re popping back home for a family visit or exploring new destinations in Europe, comprehensive travel insurance could be the smartest investment you make this year.

VENUE:

29thDecember 12th 2023

THE GOOD NEWS IS…

Marbella homes now three times pricier than Spain’s average as city becomes Europe’s ultra-luxury real estate capital

By Dilip Kuner

AVERAGE property prices in Marbella are now more than three times the Spanish national average, confirming its status as Europe’s new ultra-luxury capital.

According to The Marbella Property Market Report 2025 by Panorama Properties, the city has entered a phase of structural maturity, characterised by record values, a chronic shortage of supply, and sustained demand led by international investors.

The report, written by Panorama Properties CEO Christopher Clover (pictured below), reveals that Marbella’s average sale price has reached €711,138, compared to the national figure of €210,361.

This, according to the report, shows how Marbella has transformed itself from a resort destination into one of Europe’s most coveted luxury real estate markets and is now competing with the likes of Saint-Tropez, Gs taad and Dubai.

According to Spain’s Notarial Statistics Portal, Marbella’s real transaction prices hit €4,228 per square metre in the 12 months to September 2025, rising to €4,509/m² during the summer quarter, which was a 12.6% annual increase.

and Miami,” Clover said. “We’ve reached a structural ‘new normal’ that extends far beyond the post-pandemic surge.”

Despite soaring values, the city’s market remains largely immune to interest rate fluctuations. “Less than 10% of homes above €2 million are bought with mortgage financing,” Clover explained. “That speaks volumes about the financial strength of Marbella’s clientele.”

This high purchasing power has created what Panorama calls a ‘solid and sustainable price base’, supporting ste -

ady growth across all residential and commercial sectors.

Clover predicts continued, albeit moderate, appreciation. “Prices will keep rising - but at a more balanced pace - as demand and quality continue to evolve together,” he said.

The so-called ‘Golden Triangle’ of Marbella, Estepona and Benahavis had a total of 8,708 property transactions in 2024, 31% above pre-pandemic levels. The Golden Mile and Nagüeles remain the most expensive enclaves, averaging €5,753/m², followed by Nueva Andalucia and Puerto Banus (€4,225/m²), and Marbella East (€3,857/m²).

At the top of the market, Puente Romano beachfront apartments are fetching €30,000/m², while high-end villas in Nueva Andalucia reach €14,000/ m²**, mirroring the prices of the world’s top-tier resorts.

“Marbella has stepped onto the world stage as never before and is now recognised alongside global hubs like Dubai

The typical buyer in Marbella today is younger, wealthier, and increasingly international.

The average age stands at 52, with more than half between 41 and 60 years old.

Foreign buyers dominate the market, representing 63.1% of all acquisitions in the year to September 2025.

Britons lead the rankings (13.4%), followed by Dutch (9.6%), Swedish (8.8%), Germans and Poles. Interest from North American and Middle Eastern buyers has also surged, buoyed by new direct flights to Malaga.

This new wave of residents is no longer just buying vacation homes. Many are choosing to settle permanently, attracted by the Digital Nomad Visa and Spain’s Non-Lucrative Visa, which enable professionals to live and work remotely. “Today’s buyers are not merely investing in property — they’re investing in lifestyle,” said Clover. “Marbella has matured into a long-term safe haven for capital, family, and wellbeing.”

One of the report’s standout findings is the rise of branded residences - luxury

developments that merge architectural design with five-star hotel services. Marbella leads this European trend, surpassing Lisbon and the French Riviera, with more than a dozen such projects either underway or in development. Flagship ventures include the Four Seasons Resort & Private Residences Marbella, designed by Richard Meier; Design Hills Marbella by Dolce & Gabbana; Karl Lagerfeld Villas in Istan; Versace Villas in Nueva Andalucia; The Summit by Elie Saab in Cascada de Camojan; Marea by Missoni at Finca Cortesin; and future St. Regis and Ritz-Carlton hotels planned from redeveloped sites.

“These world-renowned names align Marbella with international standards of excellence,” said Clover. “A Four Seasons presence alone will attract many high-net-worth individuals who’ve yet to discover the city’s magic.”

Beyond prestige, these developments generate employment, attract global capital, and bolster high-end services such as gastronomy, wellness and health tourism.

Yet, success brings strain. Marbella’s long-term rental market is buckling under pressure, with rents up 89%*since 2019 - from €848 to €1,600 per month - and double-digit annual increases in prime zones.

The shortfall is pushing workers and families to neighbouring towns like Ojen, Coin, Guaro and Manilva, where rents are also rising rapidly.

“Demand vastly outstrips supply,” Clover warned. “The key will be maintaining growth in the luxury sector while ensuring that essential workers can continue to live here. Without that balance, Marbella’s social and economic

ecosystem risks distortion.”

New regulations for tourist ren-

tals introduced in 2024 and 2025 - including registration with Andalucia’s housing registry and approval from homeowners’ associations - are expected to bring more order to the market. Meanwhile, a state proposal to impose 21% VAT on short-term rentals could redirect some properties toward long-term leases, though at potential cost to the tourism sector. On the planning front, Marbella took a major step forward this year with provisional approval of its new General Municipal Planning Ordinance (PGOM), which simplifies administrative procedures and offers long-awaited legal certainty to thousands of homeowners affected by annulled development plans.

Infrastructure is also improtainability, and lifestyle. Marbella’s market has evolved from speculative to selective.”

ving: proposed projects include expanding the highway between Puerto Banus and San Pedro, advancing the coastal train initiative, and enlarging Malaga Airport, which plans to double capacity between 2027 and 2031.

Investments in desalination and water treatment aim to guarantee long-term water security - a key factor for sustainable growth.

Marbella’s economy reflects its maturity.

The city now counts over 85,000 Social Security contributors and enjoys the lowest unemployment rate in its recent history. With just 9% of Malaga province’s population, Marbella generates 17% of all registered businesses, underlining its role as a regional economic powerhouse.

“Today’s buyers are more discerning and patient,” said Clover. “They know what they want - quality, sus -

Ultimately, Panorama’s report concludes, Marbella’s enduring strength lies not just in its luxury properties but in its way of life. “Far beyond real estate,” Clover reflects: “Marbella’s true wealth is found in its culture, health, community, and the richness of experience that defines this remarkable city.”

Panorama Properties, founded in 1970 and regulated by RICS, is Marbella’s longest-established real estate agency.

BUSINESS

Late penalties

TRAIN passengers travelling on high-speed services run by Spain’s state-owned railway operator will now be able to claim compensation if their journey is delayed by just 15 minutes.

From the start of next year, passengers on Renfe services will be eligible for a 50% refund of their ticket price if the train arrives 15 minutes or more late, increasing to a full refund if the delay is over half an hour.

Law

The move comes after an amendment to the Sustainable Mobility Law proposed by the conservative Partido Popular (PP) was backed in parliament by an unlikely coalition of Vox, Podemos, Junts per Catalunya, Esquerra Republicana (ERC) and the Galician nationalist bloc (BNG).

The amendment reverses changes made in July 2024, which meant Renfe only had to dish out a 50% refund if services were more than an hour late.

SPAIN has secured a major victory in a London court, blocking efforts by US vulture funds to seize state assets linked to €1.7 billion in renewable energy compensation claims.

The Commercial Court ruled that arbitration awards issued under the Energy Charter Treaty cannot be

VULTURES DENIED

transferred to third-party investors, denying a tactic used by US funds to pursue large payouts.

The case involved OperaFund Eco-Invest and Schwab Holdings, which

sued Spain after the government reduced renewable energy subsidies over a decade ago. These awards were later purchased by Blasket Renewables, a US-linked

distressed-debt fund that sought to enforce them in the UK.

The court sided with Spain, ruling that the original claimants, not third-party funds, hold the rights to the awards. The decision limits the ability of ‘vulture funds’ to pursue aggressive asset seizures, though an appeal may still be filed.

Not fat enough

SPAIN’S annual Christmas lottery could get even fatter after ticket sellers for El Gordo (the fat one) called on the government to increase the draw’s top prize in line with inflation.

Every December, millions of Spaniards hold their breath and watch on in hope of striking it rich as children from a Madrid school sing out winning five-digit numbers drawn from a lottery machine - each of which are divided into 172 series, which themselves consist of 10 decimos.

The festive tradition began in 1812 as a way of funding Spanish troops fighting Napoleon’s

AIRLINE DEAL

TURKISH Airlines has formally signed a deal to buy around a quarter of rival airline Air Europa - although the carrier will remain under Spanish majority control.

The Turkish aviation company, the world’s largest operator by number of countries served, will invest €300 million in convertible debt, exchanged for a stake between

Ticket sellers for Christmas lottery urge government to up prize in line with inflation

By Ben Pawlowski

army - but Spain’s lottery shops say it is time to change.

They want the price of a decimo ticket - currently €20 each - to rise by €5, with the top prize upped from €400,000 to €500,000.

“The jackpot hasn’t changed in 14 years, while prices have

25 and 27% under the terms of a deal first agreed over the summer.

The investment values Air Europa, Spain’s third largest airline after Iberia and Vueling, at approximately €1.2 billion. Spain’s Hidalgo family will retain a majority stake, although some shares have been transferred to the British-Spanish company IAG - which operates airlines including British Airways and Iberia - to ensure their stake remains at 20%.

Get advice!

HAVE you thought about hiring a financial advisor, but not done so? You are not alone. Many of us put off the decision.

Here are some of our reasons:

We think we’re not wealthy enough

It is true that many financial planners have portfolio minimums. But some firms (where I work being one of them) accept new clients regardless of how much they invest.

At BISSAN Wealth Management, we do so because good financial planning is much more than just investing.

We don’t think we have enough time

We might believe we don’t have sufficient time to deal with a financial planner.

Ironically, a good financial planner will save us time in the long run. An electrician will likely fix our lights in less time and do it more effectively, the same is true for a good financial planner.

We might have to spend time talking to a planner initially as they try to get to know our financial goals and circumstances, but there’s little time commitment necessary once they’re up and running.

We think we can do it ourselves

You probably can do it yourself. But be honest, will you devote the time and energy to analyze and then decide on important financial choices, and later monitor your results and make periodic adjustments?

Are you ready to be both the mechanic and the driver of your investment vehicles, and the person who talks yourself out of buying crypto at midnight?

There are a variety of reasons for hiring an advisor. Some people like to manage their own plan but hire a financial planner to serve as an objective third party to gauge whether they are on track.

Others find they do not enjoy the planning process and have little patience for it -- they happily turn over the responsibility to a qualified advisor.

We don’t think we can afford an advisor

Many of us will make an investment if we expect the future benefits will

climbed about 26%,” complained Borja Muniz, president of ANAPAL,

a group representing Spain’s 4,100 lottery shops.

“Before, you could buy two apartments with it. Now it barely covers one,” he told Reuters. ANAPAL have sent their proposal to the state-run lottery agency and budget ministry, which will have the final say on whether the ‘Fat One’ will become plumper. They also want their commission on El Gordo sales to increase from 4.5% to 6%, in line with other national lottery draws.

Lottery ticket sellers warn that inflation and the rising costof-living have eaten into their profits.

Currently, the top El Gordo prize sits at €400,000.

The second prize is €125,000 and the third is €50,000.

There are also two fourth place prizes of €20,000, followed by eight fifth prizes of €6,000, while 1,794 people will win €100 each.

An estimated 70% of Spaniards aged 18 or over buy a ticket for the lottery every year.

Spend less

SPAIN’S central bank has sounded the alarm over the economy, urging the government to lower public spending and cut debt levels to protect the country from the impact of geopolitical instability such as President Trump’s tariff war.

“It is necessary to adopt concrete measures for expenditure control and/or revenue enhancement,” the Bank of Spain said in a recent financial stability report. It said debt remains ‘high, both from a historical perspective and in the European context’ and must be slashed to protect the Spanish economy from ‘potential sudden shifts in market financing conditions’.

Currently, Spain’s public debt sits at 103% of GDP - although the debt ratio is predicted to fall below 100 percent by 2027. Public debt peaked during the pandemic at a high of 124.2% of GDP as the government borrowed heavily to support healthcare and protect jobs. But the Bank of Spain warns that more challenges are on the horizon.

be greater than the initial expenditure. The same should be true of hiring a financial planner. Studies have shown that those of us who hire a financial planner achieve better financial outcomes and enjoy greater personal well-being than those who don’t. Many of these benefits result not from picking outperforming investments, but from helping clients choose a suitable asset mix, avoid behavioral mistakes, improve tax efficiency, and achieve comprehensive planning goals.

We view financial advisors as ‘salespeople’

Let’s face it, many financial advisors are salespeople. But many are not -- instead, they are interested in our

goals, ambitions and values.

If you are looking to hire an advisor, be willing to ask lots of questions. Has the advisor obtained credentials such as the European Financial Planner certificate in Spain or the Certified Financial Planner® certification in the US? Is their firm authorized and supervised by the CNMV (Comisión Nacional del Mercado de Valores), the financial regulatory authority in Spain? What is the process of working with the advisor? Look for someone who has an established process to help you evaluate your needs, anticipate changes and help you adjust course as needed.

We face too many choices

Some of us avoid hiring a financial planner simply because we feel overwhelmed by having so many choices.

If so, here are a few practical steps we can take:

1. Pick two or three financial planners to interview.

2. Set up a free video-call consultation with each to learn more about their methodology, how they charge, etc.

3. Choose a planner whose services align with your circumstances and with whom you feel comfortable personally.

In conclusion, we can absolutely go it alone financially without the help of a financial advisor. Just like we can cut our own hair. It might work, but the results are usually better when we let a professional handle the sharp objects.

FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

TREADING GRAPES

IF you are at a loss on where to visit in Spain (perhaps the choice is overwhelming!) then nine new certified wine routes running through the heart of Spain are the perfect option for oenophiles.

Running through Castilla y Leon, the new routes offer a unique option for tourists who want to explore the region, take in the culture, and enjoy great food and drink.

‘Castilla y Leon highlights diversity, it’s a community with lots of contrasts and that is what makes it different. Wine is the main factor but we have lots of very different cultural aspects to share’, said Miguel Angel Gayubo, the president of the Asociacion de las Rutas del Vino de Castilla y Leon. Take a look at what each route includes and find out which is best for you.

RIBERO DEL DUERO

Following the Duero river and stretching across four provinces, the Ribero del Duero route is the second most visited in Spain.

Visitors travel through Burgos, Soria, Segovia, and Valladolid drifting through a landscape dominated by vines and ancient fortresses, stopping in Peñafiel to admire the hilltop castle that houses the provincial wine museum. Further along, the monastery of Santa María de Valbuena rises majestically from the riverbank, while the historic town of Roa offers a look into centuries-old cellars.

Wine lovers should check out these certified routes running through the heart of Spain

By Rachel Gore

RUEDA

Also running through Valladolid and Segovia is the Rueda route. The town of Rueda itself is synonymous with verdejo wine, its Romanesque churches standing quietly among the vines. Segovia’s grand Roman aqueduct adds an architectural marvel to the journey, while Avila’s medieval walls introduce a different layer of history to accompany the wine tastings.

It is home to 29 associated wineries that marry alcoholic beverages with hidden heritage and history.

TORO

Toro is an emerging route within Castilla y Leon and was born with the objective of offering memory making experiences.

The route features 17 municipalities between the east of Zamora and the southeast of Valladolid.

Toro’s skyline is dominated by the magnificent Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor, a medieval jewel that sets the tone for the town’s deep-rooted winemaking culture.

This region, known for the bold Tinta de Toro grape, offers an intimate look at family-run wineries and a chance to experience a slower-paced, authentic cor ner of rural Spain.

ARRIBES

On the border of Portugal, situated between Salaman ca and Zamora, is the Arribes route.

With over 150km of river, this trip is ideal for nature lovers who want to explore beautiful scenery while enjoying the wine that is on offer. Travellers enter a world of dramat ic cliffs and winding river gorges. Fermoselle, perched above the vast Arribes del Duero Natural Park, is a labyrinth of stone houses and underground wine cellars. Across the border, the Portuguese town of Miranda do Douro adds its own cultural flavour to a route de

BREATHTAKING: Vineyard on the Bierzo route, while (below) barrels of wine in Toro

FOOD,DRINK & TRAVEL

fined by breathtaking natural scenery and a sense of serenity that only wild landscapes can provide.

ARLANZA

Situated to the south of Burgos and to the east of Palencia this area offers quality tourism that includes heritage, cultural history, nature and marvelous wines. This is a land of valleys, protected moorlands, and ancient mountain ranges, where the medieval village of Covarrubias sits like a postcard crafted from history. Its cobbled streets and half-timbered houses introduce a region where heritage and nature intertwine, and where the

AN EXPERTS VIEW

wines are as expressive as the landscapes that shape them.

BIERZO

Winding through villages and towns, the Bierzo route is filled with archeological and artistic stories.

Ponferrada stands out with its imposing Templar castle, a reminder of the area’s strategic importance on the Camino de Santiago. Nearby, Villafranca del Bierzo serves as a charming rest point for pilgrims and wine lovers alike, while the extraordinary red-rock formations of Las Medulas - once a Roman gold mine - offer a surreal backdrop to the region’s famed Mencía wines.

CIGALES

In a prime spot, close to Valladolid, is the Cigales route, which hosts over 1,200 wineries. Its proximity to the city and airport makes it ideal for a quick escape, but the region’s rose and clarete wines, along with its centuries-old cellars, encourage visitors to linger longer than they expect.

SIERRA DE FRANCIA

Venturing south into Salamanca province, the Sierra de Francia route introduces travellers to some of Spain’s oldest wine-growing terrains. The mountain village of San Martin del Castañar and the beautifully preserved town of

La Alberca offer a journey deep into tradition, where ancient vineyards cling to steep slopes and winemaking practices have been passed down through generations.

ZAMORA

The last of the certified wine routes is Zamora, which extends between 46 Zamora municipalities and 10 Salamanca municipalities, encompassing a rural world where wine was once the foundation of daily life.

The city of Zamora, with its Roman-

On private health insurance

Health insurance expert TERESA MORENO on why it’s the key to your visa in Spain as well as overall peace of mind

MOVING to another country always brings with it a mix of excitement and paperwork that can sometimes be overwhelming. In Spain, one of the most common requirements for those applying for a residence visa is to have private health insurance.

It's not just a simple piece of paper to comply with regulations, but a key tool to ensure your well-being and enjoy a more peaceful life in your new home.

WHY IS PRIVATE INSURANCE MANDATORY?

The Spanish authorities require visa applicants to demonstrate access to healthcare during their stay in the country. This means having private health insurance that meets certain criteria:

● Full coverage in Spain

● No waiting periods or extra payments, meaning immediate care with no additional costs

● Guaranteed emergency care, which not only protects the public healthcare system from additional burdens, but also ensures that, as an expat,

you won't be faced with unexpected medical expenses

THE PEACE OF MIND OF HAVING MEDICAL COVERAGE

Beyond the legal requirement, private insurance provides benefits highly valued by expats:

● Speedy care. While wait times in public healthcare can be long, in private healthcare, appointments are usually obtained almost immediately

● Freedom of choice. You can choose which specialist to see and which medical centre, from a wide network of private hospitals and clinics

● Care in your language. Many insurers offer multilingual assistance, a crucial detail when explaining symptoms or receiving a diagnosis

● International coverage. Ideal if you travel frequently or visit your home country

HOW DO YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT INSURANCE WITHOUT OVERPAYING?

This is where many expats feel lost. The market offers multiple options, and com-

esque churches and riverside castle, acts as a gateway into this vast territory. Travellers who venture further discover tranquil towns like Puebla de Sanabria, where stone houses cluster around a medieval fortress and hospitality is as warm as the region’s sun-soaked wines.

paring coverage can be confusing. Here are some key points to the right insurance for you:

1. Verify that it meets the legal requirements for your visa. Not all insurance policies valid in Spain are accepted for foreigners

2. Avoid ‘co-payments’. It may seem cheaper at first, but in the long run, it makes the actual use of the insurance more expensive

3. Check the medical network available in your city of residence

4. Seek professional advice. A specialized insurance broker can help you compare policies and find the one that truly suits your situation, avoiding unnecessary expenses.

Investing in health is investing in quality of life. Taking out private health insurance in Spain is, at the same time, a legal obligation and a smart choice. It will allow you to comply with immigration requirements and, most importantly, will give you the peace of mind of knowing that your health and that of your family are protected from day one. After all, moving to a new country is a challenge in itself. Having your health covered will allow you to focus on what's truly important: enjoying your experience in Spain, building your new life, and feeling at home, even far from your home country.

SCENIC: The Arribes route (above) and the Ribera del Duero route (below) both follow rivers, while (left) the cathedral at Zamora

November 19thDecember 2nd 2025

CONSTRUCTION

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BUILDING SERVICES

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CONSTRUCTION

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Booze control

LOVE a nightly copa or crack open a bottle of vino to unwind? A major US study says you could be steering yourself towards a stroke that hits earlier – and far harder.

Researchers at Mass General Brigham, a Harvard-affiliated health system, found that people knocking back three or more drinks a day suffered intracerebral haemorrhages 11 years earlier than moderate drinkers. Their brain bleeds were also around 70% larger and far tougher for doctors to control.

The team analysed more than 1,600 patients treated

Heavy drinkers suffer strokes ‘earlier, deeper and more severely’

By Ben Pawlowski

for brain bleeds at Massachusetts General Hospital between 2003 and 2019, studying scans and recorded alcohol habits. Heavy drinkers were typically 64 years old at the time of their stroke – more than a decade younger than lighter

WAKE UP CALL

drinkers – and were twice as likely to suffer deep brain bleeds or ones that spread

into fluid-filled spaces around the brain.

SPANISH experts are warning long-term users of melatonin about possible heart-failure risks.

Melatonin is a neurohormone produced by the pineal gland to regulate sleep, and its synthetic version is widely sold in Spain, where its use is unregulated.

A new American Heart Association study analysed five years of clinical records from more than 130,000 adults with insomnia, comparing 65,414 melatonin users with non-users.

Those taking melatonin for at least a year were 90% more likely to suffer cardiac arrest, 3.5 times more likely to be hospitalised with heart failure, and twice as likely to die from heart-related causes.

Lead author Ekenedilichukwu Nnadi noted the study’s limitations, including lack of peer review, but said the correlations are concerning. Spanish specialists say the findings should serve as a wake-up call.

Doctors also noted higher blood pressure, lower platelet counts and more signs of tiny-vessel damage linked to dementia and memory decline.

“We now know heavy drinking leads to larger, earlier brain bleeds,” warned study co-author Edip Gurol of Harvard Medical School, urging people to

minimise alcohol use.

But there’s a twist for younger boozers. A long-running Norwegian study suggests heavy drinking in late teens and early adulthood may actually boost career prospects.

Social

Sociologist Willy Pedersen tracked over 3,000 young Norwegians for almost two decades and found that those who drank heavily in social settings later achieved higher education and income levels. Alcohol isn’t magic, he stresses – it’s a ‘marker of sociality’ that helps some young adults build networks that pay off later.

STAYING FIT AFTER 60

ISTILL remember a colleague who, after a long career as a medical director, decided to spend his final years before retirement returning to what he loved most: caring for patients.

He told me, with amazement, how much society had changed since the last time he sat beside an examination table.

Back then, he said, anyone over 60 was considered old…and he was often correct: they smoked, led sedentary lives, did little to no exercise, and were often overweight. Today, that reality is very different. People reach 60 feeling young, energetic, eager to take care of themselves and enjoy life.

Many walk regularly, practice yoga, ride bicycles, watch their diet, and even have their own physiotherapist or personal trainer.

This shift in mindset has completely transformed the way we age.

Taking care of oneself is no longer a trend, it’s a way of life. Thanks to that, people are not only living longer, but reaching ‘old age’ in better health

Writing exclusively for the Olive Press, Spain’s national football team doctor Claudio Vazquez (below), reveals how putting on 5kg in weight means adding 20kg of extra pressure to every step

and with a far higher quality of life.

But while these new lifestyle habits are bringing greater longevity, joint degeneration remains a reality. It’s a fact of life.

Although we can delay or lessen its effects, sooner or later we all experience, to some degree, the natural wear and tear of our joints.

Studies are clear: around 80% of chronic pain cases are due to degenerative joint disease. And the inevitable question arises, how can we fight it?

step.

In other words, gaining 5 kg means adding about 20 kg of extra pressure to every stride.

Achieving and maintaining an ideal weight is therefore one of the best investments in joint health. But nowadays, walking or cycling alone is not enough.

We now know that strength training (at least twice a week) is essential to maintain muscle tone and prevent sarcopenia, the progressive loss of muscle mass and strength.

Vitamins D and C, along with minerals and hydrolyzed collagen, can preserve joints

I’m afraid there’s no single or miraculous solution. The key lies in a multidisciplinary approach.

Body weight though is the one definitive silent enemy of our joints.

According to various studies, every extra kilogram adds between three and six times more load to the knee with each

Strong muscles act as a natural ‘shock absorber’ that protect the joints from wear.

Nutritional supplements have also become a strong ally in joint care. Vitamins D and C, along with minerals and hydrolyzed collagen, can help preserve joint structure and function, especially when combined with exercise and a balanced diet.

When joint pain and degeneration persist, regenerative medicine offers safe and effective alternatives. Minimally invasive techniques such as hyaluronic acid or platelet-rich

plasma (PRP) injections are being used with excellent results, helping many active patients avoid surgery. It’s also important to choose the right type of exercise. Weight-bearing joints (the hips, knees, and ankles) suffer more with high-impact activities such as running or long-distance walking. This doesn’t mean giving up exercise, but rather choosing wisely.

I strongly advise gym workouts, cycling, elliptical training, and swimming, which are all safe and effective ways to stay fit without damaging the joints.

As I often tell my patients: it’s not about moving less, it’s about learning to move better. The good news is that when surgery is needed, outcomes are excellent. Knee and hip replacements now achieve success rates above 90%, allowing patients to regain mobility and return to their daily activities. In short, there are no excuses for neglecting your health. By maintaining a healthy weight, building muscle strength, choosing the right exercise, and seeking timely treatments, we can continue to enjoy movement and life to the fullest.

Tax alarm

BRITISH motorists

could face a new ‘payper-mile’ tax in Spain under UK Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ autumn budget plan. The levy, set to start in 2028, would apply even on foreign roads, sparking criticism.

Old seller

A MAN, 77, was caught selling cocaine out of his car by Valencia police who seized €85,000 in cash as well as drugs in small plastic bags.

Big draw

A TEAM of Palestinian footballers which played a charity match in Bilbao’s San Mames Stadium in aid of Medecins sans frontieres, attracted a crowd of 50,000.

Rock ‘n’ relax

Trump junior holes up with new squeeze for rainy weekend in Marbella after business trip to Gibraltar

AFTER a few hours on the Rock it was only natural he would look for somewhere appropriate to graze.

Previously heading out into the wilds of Spain to go hunting, this time Donald Trump Jr, 48, luxuriated at the rather more serene surroundings of Marbella’s five-star Puente Romano hotel.

Egged on

By Walter Finch

The President’s eldest son had his new girlfriend, influencer Bettina Anderson, 38, in tow after all (pictured together).

The pair spent the weekend at the luxury resort, mostly in their suite, only being seen once, eating at the hotel’s beachside Sea

LUIS Rubiales, the disgraced former head of the Spanish Football Federation (RFEF), was pelted with eggs by his own uncle during a book launch in Madrid.

The relative, also named Luis Rubiales, launched three eggs at the stage while shouting: “Don’t worry, nothing’s up!”

Two eggs hit Rubiales, and the assailant was arrested by police. Rubiales, who resigned after a controversial kiss with Jenni Hermoso, was fined €10,800 for sexual assault. He is currently serving a three-year football ban and faces a corruption probe over the Spanish Super Cup’s relocation to Saudi Arabia.

Grill restaurant. Sensibly they didn’t venture out into the nearby resort, or up the hill to the famous mountain town of Ronda.

But what was very apparent was the amount of security in town for their visit.

There were said to be dozens of private security guards, as well as a close team of bodyguards and even uniformed Spanish officers in situ.

He had arrived at Malaga airport on Friday and been taken on a four-car motorcade all the way to Gibraltar, where former UK Foreign Secretary Jeremy Hunt was visiting this weekend. He spent nearly four hours in a meeting at the Rock’s leading law firm Hassans.

Trump Jr is the vice-president of the Trump Organization and has been an enthusiastic promoter of the family’s controversial crypto schemes which have made them hundreds of

A real handful

millions of dollars.

He was filmed heading into the meeting with senior partner James Levy and Chief Minister Fabian Picardo.

Also present were businessman Christian Ryan and Russian Konstantin Sokolov, both of whom are involved with a proposed €2 billion data-centre, which would be the largest private investment for Gibraltar.

Picardo later said the meeting involved ‘investors and people interested in understanding what Gibraltar can do’.

Socialite and model Anderson has become a regular fixture at Trump Jr’s side since rumours were confirmed just last year – while he was still engaged to former Fox TV host Kimberly Guilfoyle.

AN African wild cat illegally kept as a domestic pet has been rescued from an Alicante home.

The five-year-old female serval called Tila became too much of a handful for the family.

Fortunately a rescue centre in Villena, AAP Primadomus, was able to step in and help.

“The reality is that as they grow, servals become very difficult to keep at home, especially with small children or if you have visitors as the animal gets nervous,” explained the family in a statement.

LILO FOOL

COAST guards have rescued a man who was plucked from the sea 37 kilometres off the coast - floating precariously on an inflatable mattress.

The astonishing rescue took place after a freighter spotted the lone figure bobbing like a discarded toy in the deep blue.

The man, instantly dubbed ‘Mad Mattress Man’ by local rescue teams, had apparently paddled out from Estepona’s beaches, equipped only with the kind of cheap plastic lilo you’d find at a beachfront kiosk before being swept away by the current.