All About Santa Catalina

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Vol. 1 Issue 23

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AUTHENTIC: From the dishes of Chilean chef Hector Marcelo to the architecture of El Jonquet

Village in the city

HIVE: A market trader with his wares

The boom in Santa Catalina has created a magical mix of restaurants and more, discover Jon Clarke and Gillian Keller

T LANDMARK: Sant Magi Church

HE clinking of wine glasses, clicking of designer heels and the cacophony of foreign languages… welcome to a typical lunchtime in Santa Catalina.

Palma's trendiest neighbourhood is often described by locals as 'the village in the city', and there is no doubt it has a very distinct look and feel about it.

With the city’s best food market, some of its most exciting restaurants and, bit by bit, some of the coolest shops, it is little surprise that Santa Catalina has become - by

the square metre - one of the most expensive places to buy in Spain.

The area may be small - only seven streets wide, stretching from Feixina park to busy Calle Joan Crepsí - but it has literally exploded over the last few years.

There has been a huge influx of expat buyers, in particular Scandinavian, and Santa Catalina today is vastly different to the area that Palma residents remember just a decade ago.

TERRACE LIFE: Outdoor at Sumaq and in Calle Fabrica

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New SoHo

NEW LOCAL: Mads Makkelson

“There is always good food to taste and wine to drink, and more importantly there are so many interesting “It’s amazing how much it has changed in such a short and friendly people around the streets,” she adds. time,” explains estate agent Miguel Llinas, from First This is one of the main differences between Santa CataMallorca. lina and the rest of Mallorca - the crossing of so many “We have seen houses selling there for up to two mil- cultures and background in one small neighbourhood. lion euros and it is not just the international market that “Everyone co-exists really well, and appreciates the loves Santa Catalina. We are increasingly getting local international feel - it's not segregated and people are Mallorquins also looking to buy,” he explains. open and friendly,” co-owner of BConnected Vintage This is perhaps no surprise, as the subDesign Angela Kholodny, from New urb increasingly becomes THE place to York, explains. eat in Palma and more and more hip is all too apparent when walking The sheer variety This and trendy people move in. through the streets, even on a rainy day, This includes James Bond villain with most people making the effort to of nationalities Mads Mikkelsen, 52, who has already nod hello and even the shopkeepers at snapped up three properties in the here create an least trying to smile. area, the Olive Press can reveal.

This is the clear pride in the neighbouralmost unique The Hollywood heartthrob, who also hood that everyone shares. starred in the hit US series Hannibal, “It is the most amazing melting pot,” buzz ‘has bought one apartment for himself says German businesswoman Madeand two for his wife and daughter’, a leine from restaurant Santina. “And the source reveals. sheer variety of nationalities here creAside from Mads, who is regularly seen shopping in the ates an almost unique buzz.” market and eating out, you have a number of profes- Her story is so typical of the new residents flocking into sional golfers, as well as leading European models in- Santa Catalina, the Berliner having worked in fashion vesting here. and marketing before moving to the island with her “There's SoHo in New York, there's Soho in London, and Dutch boyfriend Vincent, who owns three restaurants now there's Santa Catalina,” local entrepreneur Franc- in Barcelona. esca Lagartera tells the Olive Press.

And then you’ve got Ronny from Greece, Irene from From Page 9

QUIRKY: A dog pees in ‘Pou’ street

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VIBES: Santa Catalina is about its streets and its terraces and the people you meet out and about every day

Peru, Luke from the UK, Ricardo from Italy and Bernabe from Argentina… all running their own restaurants here.

“There are over 100 different places to eat here,” explains Ronan Levy, from Simply Delicious, an Israeli, who grew up on a kibbutz, before moving to Santa Catalina, via Sweden, a few years ago. “And many of them are unique to the island.”

There is no doubt the vibes in the area revolve around the concept of fresh, healthy and authentic ingredients. Locally sourced products are the norm for the neighbourhood… and beyond this, many establishments boast using local pottery, tiles and decor, fabrics, packaging and endless other Mallorcan-made goods.

Second hand shops are beginning to thrive in the area, where reusing and recycling is a priority, including Flamingo's offering vintage American goods, and BConnected Designer Vintage with loads of top designers from across the decades.

Santa Catalina however, has not always been the trendy village it is today.

Its history began with fishermen and flour millers, and later numerous factories covered much of what we find today.

The neighbourhood is named after an old hospital, dedicated to Saint Catalina of Alexandria, appropriately, the patron saint of sailors and merchants.

Santa Catalina - and its seafront neighbour El Jonquet, which is usually included within its orbit were the first areas outside Palma's old town to be built up with houses.

Palma was overcrowded, but there was a ‘no build’ law outside the city walls, until finally a piece of the wall was taken down, and Palma had its first expansion.

In 1865, a series of ship captains and shipbuilders began constructing charming two and three storey houses from the sea up into the middle of Santa Catalina. Soon they were joined by fishermen, rope makers, and flour millers, who built a variety of houses with colourful facades, and tradition wooden shutters.

In 1897, a Palma town planning contest was held with proposals for expanding Palma westwards.

This was won by Bernardo Calvet, whose plan for wide streets and low buildings letting in light and fresh air came into effect, in contrast to the dark and narrow streets in the old city.

Calle Fabrica - the main street in Santa Catalina - still represents this vision today. The wide streets leave room for pedestrians and large restaurant terraces, which are ideal next to the low buildings, letting in the sun all day long.

HISTORIC: The area still counts many original shops such as this 1924 haberdashery and (far left) knife shop

The neighbourhood served as “This is what really makes the area so popular today with northa simple village for traders and workers for many decades. Things ern Europeans,” explains Christine Silke Leja, boss of leading went well until the 1960’s when the booming tourism industry took real estate company B Connected, who is often credited with first a grip on Mallorca, leading to decades of growth with new holiday making the area fashionable.

“The fact that the houses are lower and the streets wider means resorts popping up along the coast, east and west of the city.

Santa Catalina started to fall through the cracks and fell into disrethe homes get more light and sun.”

The year after Calvet’s plan was adopted, a theatre was built and pair. Many of the original tradesmen and workers, moved to work in to this day the Mar i Terra Theatre is a key cultural centre the tourism industry, leaving the central city location behind.

Bit by bit this led to the area becoming dilapidated, with various and drama school. homes becoming squatted or taken over by gypsies, and numerous Shops and businesses popped up along Calle Indrug dealers and users moving in. dustria, furthest from the sea, with factories ocThe charm however, never went away and it was thanks to a few cupying most of the business space until the pioneers, who could see the true potential of the area that helped line of windmills near the sea, to bring it back to what it is today. a number of them still existOne of these was Antonia Martorell, 67, a local ing to this day.

I get all my food from Santa Ponsa, who launched her first real esTake a walk around the tate business in Santa Catalina in the early 1980s. back streets around Calle from the market, A woman with a very international outlook, havIndustria and you will find a series of unique I go early and get ing lived in London, Germany and Stockholm, she could see the potential of the rundown area Andalusian-style cottages, that still boast colourful all my veg, lots of thanks to its close location to the marina and central Palma. facades and traditional fish and meat She started to buy up and renovate old apartgreen shutters. ments in the area, the majority to rent or sell to But the best was to come in yacht captains, many of them British. “I realised 1920, when the famous Santhere was a market for these guys once their boats were out of the ta Catalina market was first built, with a local water come winter time. Where would they live? I started buying branch railway line running through the middle. and restoring properties with a South African boat owner and soon It became the lifeblood of the area and one of we had 14 of them, all of them rented. the key markets for the whole city… and to this day is “It was a great business and these guys loved the area for its vibe still supplying fresh fish, meat and vegetables to the local and location and it went on from there.” area… and many of the local restaurateurs.

“I get almost all my food from the market,” says Chilean chef, Today Antonia has 53 apartments and runs the highly successful Hector Marcelo, from Fulla d’ostra. “It’s fantastic. I go early like Caimari Real Estate from the heart of Santa Catalina. many chefs around 8 to 8.30am and get all my vegetables, lots “Our clients now are from all around the world and we get three or four foreigners coming in to enquire about property every day. of fish and meat and flowers of course.

The place has completely changed and mostly for the better.”

“We are so lucky to have it so close.”

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Church for abandoned orphans

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LANDMARK: Sant Magi church has a 1720 alterpiece

NE of the key buildings in the heart of Santa Catalina is the striking Catholic church on Carrer de Sant Magi.

It has its roots dating back to the 14th century and sailors stuck outside the city walls.

The church has the privilege of two names, The Church of the Immaculate Conception, and Saint Maginus, or ‘San Magín’ locally.

The church is named after Saint Maginus, who was a Catalan hermit in the late third century, orphaned when he was a young boy, and later persecuted for his faith.

The site of today's church was originally an orphanage with a small chapel and legend has it many of the children were abandoned by sailors, who set off to sea for years on end.

Later, a more substantial chapel replaced the orphanage in the 16th century. Construction began on today's church in 1867, and was finished in 1920, the same year the market came to Santa Catalina.

The main altarpiece is a grand piece of baroque art, designed by Italian Giuseppe Dardanon for the Palma Cathedral in the 1720's. It had been part of the city’s main cathedral until celebrated architect Antoni Gaudí came to Palma and re-designed the cathedral, moving the altarpiece to the nearby Santa Catalina church.

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The Godmother of Santa Catalina’s real estate sector Antonia Martorell launched four decades ago

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Buying for boaties

T was 38 years ago that Antonia Martorell launched her business in Santa Catalina.

The boss of estate agent Caimari had an inkling that the area - then known for its gypsies and drug users - was set for bigger and better things.

“The streets were wide allowing more light and sun and the market was giving the area life. I had a feeling it was a good place to launch,” she explains from her central office in the heart of the popular Palma suburb.

The 67-year-old had arrived in the area having lived in Sweden, Germany and the UK and teamed up with a South African boat owner to buy up and renovate properties in the area.

As she has been working here for so many years, she knows almost every single property and she is a fiscal advisor by trade.

“A fair amount of them haven’t got the right paperwork and are not legal, so I always warn buyers to be careful,” she adds. “It pays to be wary and remember, while quite a few agents claim it, you mostly cannot buy to let.”

The urbane businesswoman is now working on a number of projects with her son Samuel, who is a graphic designer and specialist in CAD. It means they can tailor make exactly what each client wants in terms of materials for the walls and floor and in terms of furniture and even colours, if they want.

Safe

They now own 53 properties, the vast majority rented to foreigners, many of them working on boats in the nearby marina.

“We have British, German and Danish clients, a lot of Swedes, particularly from Stockholm, a lot of Italians and even some Spanish,” she says.

“The area is an amazing place to live and you know everyone once you have been to the market twice.

“On top of that it is very safe and even as a woman you can happily walk home at 4am without any fear.”

These days she is getting three or four clients walking into her office every day and she collaborates with three or four other local agents.

March 1st - March 14th 2018

KNOWLEDGE: Antonia with client

Contact sales@accomodationpalma.com or call 971284828 for more information

FOR SALE: Interesting buildings on her books include windmills

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half dozen delights FIRST Mallorca has an excellent range of properties for sale in Santa Catalina.

The well-established agent has six different homes on offer in the hip Palma enclave.

They go from €300,000 to €950,000 and are expected to sell ‘pretty quickly’ according to the local specialist Miguel Llinas.

“We are definitely seeing the number of buyers growing in the area,” he explains.

“A lot of Germans, plenty of Scandinavians and even local Mallorquins are looking these days.

“It’s the perfect place to buy. You are living right next to central Palma and you can visit a different restaurant every day.”

The properties on offer include a 80m square rebuild property, ‘which will make a fantastic one-bedroom space, with a big living room’.

“There has been an explosion in Santa Catalina, similar to the rest of the island,” adds Llinas. “The south west is booming, but so are other parts of the island.”

FABULOUS: Range of clothes at Mozaic

Bohemians and globetrotters IT is all about fashion, furniture and vintage decor.

And Mozaic, is easily one of Santa Catalina’s hippest shops.

Crammed full of stylish clothes, quirky objects and stunning antique furniture, this is one place you certainly don’t want to miss.

Describing itself as a ‘creative lifestyle store for globetrotters and bohemian spirits’ it certainly has a true cornucopia of curios and collectibles.

Created nearly two decades ago by an expat British/Venezuelan family, it is continually adapting and changing with the times.

Nowadays there is an emphasis on fashion, alongside home decor and gift items.

There is also, what they describe as a range of ‘curious eccentricities’.

The range of items for sale come from dozens of countries, including India, Morocco and Indonesia.

The parents and son team visit fairs and exhibitions around the world looking for a range of interesting items.

They run a second shop around the corner Tony Malony and a stunning bed and breakfast in Valldemossa.

Visit www.mozaicshop.com for more information

It is for this reason that the company is set to open two new offices this year, in Santanyi and Pollensa.

“We have sold three properties in the Santanyi area and we haven’t even opened the office yet,” he jokes.

Visit Miguel at his central office on Paseo Mallorca or call on 971425262 for an appointment.

Laying the foundations Jon Clarke meets B Connected boss Christine Leja, one of the true pioneers behind the resurgence of Santa Catalina

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HE is often credited with making Santa Catalina chic.

And there’s no doubt Christine Leja was an early trailblazer into Palma’s hippest barrio, having launched her first business here 15 years ago.

“It was definitely a bit of a gamble. When I first got here it was a pretty run down neighbourhood, but I could see the potential,” the urbane German tells the Olive Press.

Having worked around the world in the design business, including a decade in Ibiza, she knew a fair bit about style.

“The houses were lovely, the roads were wide letting in a lot of light and it felt like a village in the city,” she says. “And on top of that you had the market.”

Her first clients were the yachties, who lived and worked around the corner in the marina and had a fair amount of disposable income.

“They were a cool, healthy young bunch and came from all around the world.”

“Mallorca is a massive global hotspot to Best of all, they were earning fabulous salaries buy at the moment, similar to Ibiza and Miwith almost no expenses, living mostly on the ami, as well as other fashionable places, boats. such as Bali and Tulum in Mexico.”

They were only too happy to put down anchor and invest in real estate in the city they spent tecture and design studio. much of the year.

“There is no doubt we have been “And they were able to get mortgaga part of creating the spirit and es easily with their healthy bank style of the place, which is balances,”adds Christine. now the most cosmopoliPretty soon she had dozens tan and innovative area of clients and, along with of Palma,” she insists. her partner Andree, they She is talking at the started to buy old properstylish architecture ties in the Santa Catalina “The properties in arm of the business in area and do them up to Santa Catalina are well Carrer de Sant Magi. sell. built on sandstone and are It is a cool spot, clean So successful has been mostly of a similar proportion, and minimalist, while their business that they two to three storeys high, with her office on a meznow have four different an eight metre facade and zanine floor is full of businesses in the Santa around 11m to 13m deep. sumptuous furniture Catalina area, all similarly They make for great and edgy prints scattered branded, including a chocolate homes.” about the walls and floor. factory, an interior design shop, “I come out of the old hippie a real estate agency and an archimovement and was a nomad

Hotspot

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ECCENTRIC: Furniture from across the globe

INspiration: This amazing 140 m2 duplex in Santa Catalina comes with a 15m terrace and has been reduced to €780,000

TRAILBLAZER: Leja (top) and her innovative office space in Santa Catalina

for decades,” explains the mother-of-one, from Stuttgart. “I travelled from the age of 19 and lived in New York, Italy, France and Switzerland.

“My first taste of Spain was in Ibiza in the early 1980s. It was the polar opposite of the strict rigid lifestyle in Switzerland and was very beautiful.

“I still love it there but there is something about Mallorca that really appeals. The landscape is stunning, particularly in the north west, which is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and there’s an excellent mix of properties.”

Her love of architecture comes from her family.

Her great grandfather built cathedrals in Germany and her father was an architect involved in the reconstruction of parts of Germany after the war.

“I am addicted to real estate and spend so much time looking at buildings, even when on holiday,” explains the mother-of-one. “I am also not scared of hard work and am usually here from 9am to 8pm at night. It is one of the reasons we have done so well.

“To sum things up our motto is: ‘we love what we do and we do what we love.’”

For more information visit www.bconnectedmallorca.com or call 971570963

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MASSIVE MIX: From fish to flowers

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HE lifeblood of Santa Catalina without a doubt, its market.

Now, nearly 100 years old the M cat de Santa Catalina is the old in Palma.

Founded in 1920, it counts on dozen stalls selling everything from flowers wine and cheese to nuts.

But, without a doubt, its strongest s ing point is the freshness of its produ with hundreds of chefs from around city using its excellent stalls to shop.

“Without the market there is no Sa Catalina. The best people are ins here, every day,” Bernat Contesti, of C testí Fruits explains.

His family has run their fruit and v etable business for 70 years and it been passed down for three generatio “We are well known for our well selec produce, much of which we grow o selves locally, such as the strawber and oranges.”

The market is full of stalls like Barn and in recent years the market has dergone a few makeovers, and ther a clear move towards quality of produ “It's all different now. In fact anot world from before,” says Llorens Pi nell, owner of Es Banyalbuferi. “It tainly feels very much alive.”

Some of the market is part of the orig structure, while new stalls were adde 1978, and a new roof in 2000.

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ntury old

a is,

Merdest

ns of s to

years ago.

“I'm lucky to be here in Santa Catalina, it's our little SoHo with such a mixture of people,” Carina says.

“A lot of our customers come from the

anta side Con-

We still get all the local ladies, who come in every day for their daily shopping as they have done for decades

veghas ons. cted ourrries

ginal ed in

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Santa Catalina’s market has been one of Palma’s main shopping hives for 100 years, writes Gillian Keller (left)

selluce, the

nat's une is uce. ther icorcer-

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LONG-TERMER: Bernat Contesti

Owner of Ramon Fruits, Carina Ramon call herself the 'happiest girl in the world' because she gets to run the family business that her grandparents started 54

yachts, we carry things they can't find anywhere else - but we still get all the local ladies, who come in every day for their daily shopping as they have done for decades.”

Open Monday through Saturday, rain or shine the market is bustling with people, from neighbours to tourists picking up the islands best offerings.

SMILES: The traders are a good-tempered bunch

ONLY THE BEST: From wines to Mallorca’s best English paper

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Breakfast and Lunch – ALL DAY Great selection of wines Bring this advert for a FREE coffee or soft drink

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Melting pot!

Olive Press editor Jon Clarke (above) is blown away by the incredible mix of restaurants in Santa Catalina

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(one coffee or soft drink per advert)

Open 7am - 7pm closed Saturday evening and Sunday Carrer de Monsenyor Palmer, 5 Next to the Plaza Puente

WIZARD: Benabe at Vandal

HILE San Sebastian might have the pastiche these days. most Michelin stars - and probably “But the truth is I’ve cooked all around the world the best tapas - Santa Catalina has so it really is a fusion of everything,” he tells me. the biggest variety of restaurants in a His adventure has taken in Thailand (near Chismall area anywhere in Spain. ang Mai), Japan for two stints and even the celThere are at least 100 restaurants in this trendy ebrated Noma, in Denmark. barrio of just over a dozen streets.

He still owns a Japanese restaurant in Valencia, But what is most remarkable about the dining which he pops back to regularly, when not cookscene in Santa Catalina is the number of foreign ing at Vandal, a vanguard, industrial-style spot, chefs. fitting for the history of Santa Restaurants from Vietnam and Catalina.

Japan, sit cheek by jowl with Unsurprisingly the food at Vaneateries from Peru and Mexico, A touch of Korean dal is adventurous and original, while Greek chefs vie for attenand there is nothing standard and Japanese, tion next to Israelis. about it from the school-report although not And, best of all, none of the resstyle menus to the graffitied taurants I have tried over the last walls. sushi, as well as couple of months have disapI tried loads of things, but was pointed.

Chinese and Laos particularly impressed with the Having written about food and glazed bone marrow with beef dining for the last two decades, tongue, not to mention the eels, much of it as a travel writer for which had a real kick coming the Daily Mail, I have come across some amaz- out gelatinous and peppery. ing restaurants and just as many chefs.

Across the road, an equally adventurous spot is In Spain, I have interviewed and tested the food Kurobota, owned by Englishman Luke Perry. of Madrid’s three-Michelin star wunderkind Da- Hard to pigeonhole, its manager Sergio, from vid Munoz, while at Celler de can Roca I got a Milan, sums it up as ‘a touch of Korean and Jappersonal tour by Joan Roca himself. In Bilbao I anese, although not sushi, as well as Chinese interviewed creative genius Eneko Atxa at Azur- and bits from Laos’. mendi, while I three times grilled ‘chef of the The food however is delicious, particularly the sea’ Angel León in Cadiz. soft shell crab bao and miso-glazed Iberian But few places have entertained me as much pork, not to mention its amazing mix of cockas the chefs in Santa Catalina, easily Mallorca’s best area to eat.

One of the true characters is Benabe at Vandal (www.vandalpalma.com).

The Argentinian of Italian descent (above left) has only been open since July last year, but he is already making big ripples in the Mallorcan food stakes.

I spent an hour with him as he tested an ambitious new recipe for seaweed crisps to go with a seafood number.

He calls his cuisine ‘traveller or adventurer style’, keen to avoid the word ‘fusion’ which has become so ALL SMILES: The team at Naan

Monday to Saturday 13.00-16.00 & 19.30-23.30 tel: 971 91 55 22 Carrer de Caro, 16, 07013 Palma de Mallorca www.naanstreetfood.es TUCK IN: Diners get ready to have a taste sensation at Claro

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International cuisine with Mediterranean flavours. Menu created and designed for food lovers by the chef Hector Marceló.

Tuesday to Saturday 1pm-3.30pm and 7pm-11pm hola@fulladostra.com tel: (+34) 971 251 556 WhatsApp: (+34) 629 759 904 c/ Cotoner 47 – Santa Catalina Palma de Mallorca

w w w. f u l l a d o s t r a . c o m GLOBAL TEAM: At Fulla d’ostra and (inset) their creations

tails, served up by genius Sergio, who has lived in Santa Catalina for over a decade and previously ran his own cocktails bar.

Looking for somewhere classical, but with a creative twist on top? Head to recently-opened Taller de Mar (www.tallerdemar.com) where Ricardo, from Ancona, in Italy, is producing some of the most sumptuous dishes I have ever

eaten.

A friendly, softly-spoken fellow, he has a true artistic talent, learnt working for years around Germany (with Alfons Schuhbeck) and Austria with (three Michelin-starred Eckhard Witzigmann).

You can tell the food is going to be special from the uncluttered interior design and simple settings, and it does not disappoint with some crafty dishes including black beluga lentils and the beautifully presented prawn ‘brickstick’ which comes with zucchini, radishes, peppers, baby tomatoes and strawberries.

The real winner though was the scallop ceviche with cantaloupe melon, with edible flowers and coriander, poured over with an amazing tiger milk soup.

Another fabulous new addition to the local dining scene is Fulla d’ostra (www.fulladostra.com) across the road.

A genuine five-star for style, few places in Mallorca can beat the seductive lighting and beautiful interior design… this is true grand cru Malloquina.

And the food luckily matches, with Chilean chef Hector Marcelo and his team from Venezuela and Senegal, creating a wonderful melting pot of tastes.

It’s a tried and tested formula, Hector having previously won plaudits with co-owners Claudio and Martha Arais in Barcelona.

You must definitely try their excellent Chilean-style ceviche (‘while the Peruvians claim it as their own, it is actually an ancient Inca dish, created before Peru existContinues on Page 20

In beautf i ul Santa Catalina, Palma de Mallorca simplyronen@gmail.com Tel: +34 871 233 705 / +34 600 67 37 22 www.facebook.com/simplyronen WWW.SIMPLYDELICIOUS.ES HEALTHY LIVING: Ronan and eaterie

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From Page 19

March 1st - March 14th 2018

ed,’ insists Hector) as well as the duck breast with fennel.

Best of all though were the scallops, coming out in a very generous group of four, and easily as good as any I have tried in Galicia.

On the subject of creativity, a MUST-VISIT is Naan Street Food (www.naanstreetfood.com), where Argentinian Nicolas ‘Nico’ Malenchini has created one of most popular places to eat in Palma.

Regularly topping the TripAdvisor rankings for the area, it has an excellent mix of international flavours, from Vietnamese to American, and Peruvian to Japanese.

Presentation is unfussy and the vibe is loud and buzzy, so expect the place to be full most days of the week.

Flavours

Top picks include the amazing fish tacos (I ordered them again, they were so good), while the pastel de camerones had a great mix of flavours.

For originality, it’s difficult to beat Simply Delicious (www.simplydelicious.es), which you would be hard pressed to challenge with the Trade Descriptions Act. It is exactly what it says on the tin, simply delicious, although with a bent very much leaning towards healthy food.

The creation of livewire Israeli Ronen Levy, who lived in Sweden for two decades, it is mostly vegetarian, but certainly not all, and I have rarely eaten such good Middle Eastern fare.

“Most of our clients are vegan and women, so I’m catering for them, but I also like to serve up a little meat,” he explains.

This included an amazing dish of organic lamb with hummus, as well as a homemade beef invention, that takes some beating.

It was however, beaten by a babaganoush, no less, which has genuinely changed my view of the dish, rich and creamy and even dreamed of since.

When it comes to Italian restaurants, you are

STYLES: At A Casa Mia and ProSseco

food revolution spoilt for choice in Santa Catalina - and I probably met at least half a dozen Italian chefs plying their trade here.

For the most classical style you can’t go wrong with ProSecCo (www.proseccosantacatalina.

com) which has a fantastic terrace, busy for most of the year and a friendly owner Luca Veronesi, who has a good eye for quality ingredients.

Expect to eat plenty of fresh pasta, fantastic pizzas and the best tiramisu in Palma.

There is also an excellentvalue menu del dia at just 12.50 euros, which has a choice of three starters and five main courses. The wine list is good too.

In total contrast look out for A Casa Mia (www. acasamiamallorca.com), a true family affair, set up in 2013 out of ‘love and passion’ for dining, with a nice mix of Italian and Mallorquin food.

Run by three brothers and with mum Fabrizia in the kitchen, you will rarely find such a friendly, homely place.

With a massive attention to detail, the food is HIP: Santina bought every day at the local market and could be anything from mussels to oysters, but is most likely to include some fabulous filled raviolis and splendid fresh salads.

A Vitello Tonnato of sliced veal with creamy tuna mayonnaise and capers was splendid, while the La Parmigiana (aubergines with tomato sauce and buffalo mozzarella) was delicious.

The wine list is second to none, with some of the true Italian classics, as well as plenty of wines by the glass.

And let’s not forget the Mallorquins, with local character Toni Ripoll running his fabulous Tartaro (www.tartaro.es) with true aplomb.

Now open for four years, having run another restaurant Paladar for 20 years nearby, Toni has created one of the warmest and sumptuous joints in Palma.

Bustling on most lunchtimes, this is very much the place for businessmen to schmooze their clients and families to come out for a special occasion.

And Toni knows them all, the great and the good, sharing a glass of wine with them or a cigarette on the terrace outside.

Try something different C/ San Magin 84. Santa Catalina. 07013 Palma de Mallorca. Tel 871 968 320

From Tuesday to Sunday 13:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00 tel: 971 45 30 04 www.acasamiamallorca.com Carrer de Sant Magí, 61, 07013 Palma, Illes Balears

Lunchtime menu during the week for only 9.90€

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CREATIVES: Ricardo at Taller de Mar and Toni at Tartaro

Foodwise you have a choice of ‘tostas’ which come with such delights as foie, fig and brie and aubergine, but you really have to try the tartares, which are his signature dishes.

There are eight of them and apart from the traditional beef and salmon tartare, there are some original ones, such as chicken and prawn and artichoke.

Up closer to the market look out for Santina ( w w w. s a n t i n a p a l m a . com), which is one of the hippest spots to hang out in Santa Catalina.

This beautiful corner restaurant is the creation of pretty German Madeleine and Dutch restaurateur boyfriend Vincent, who has a trio of restaurants in Barcelona.

Their catchphrase is ‘we love to make food for the city that loves to eat it’ and they have an almost uncanny idea how to create tasty dishes.

There is a splendid mix TOP TEAM: At Duke of healthy dishes (many gluten-free, such as organic quinoa burgers) as well as bagels, wraps and big fruit bowls.

I had a fabulous chicken sandwich with rocket in

ATMOSPHERIC: At Bindis

Oven ready

sourdough bread, which ticked the box perfectly for a light working lunch.

Nearby, for light bites you must also check out Claro, which is another hip spot opposite the market.

It describes itself as a ‘concept food store’ and has a nice range of Italian fast food dishes as well as great breakfasts and light lunches, plus superb fresh juices.

Another excellent lunch and breakfast spot is Moments, which sits in Placa del Pont, a new area getting hipper by the day.

Inside it is attractive with cool photos on the wall, while outside there is a great terrace.

As well as light dishes, it does an excellent coffee and there is a decent selection of wines by the glass too.

Back on an international note, an interesting spot to look out for is Solee, which has an interesting mix of Spanish and Bosnian food, with a touch of Austrian too.

With an excellent terrace it is a great place to while away a sunny lunchtime or evening, particularly as there are some great cocktails.

Bindis is an excellent Indian fusion spot, popular and usually busy most nights.

It was set up by bubbly Bin, who grew up in London and came into catering after a degree in chemistry and a career working as a management consultant much of it in Ibiza.

Seductive in style and lighting, the food is a mix of traditional and creative, and changes regularly by the season. Another true stalwart for the area is Duke, owned by Ronny, from Greece, a pensive chap, who runs a tight ship, providing meals for up to 50 people at a time. Describing his food as ‘world cuisine tapas’, there are dishes from all around the world, and the place is a truly charming spot to eat. I loved his trio of ceviches, not to mention his excellent broccoli

‘NATURAL and unhurried’ is the recipe for success at Thomas' Bake Shop in Santa Catalina.

His boutique bread shop offers specialised sourdough and gluten-free loaves, as well as delicious ciabattas, rolls and pastries every day.

Baker Thomas Grasberger from Austria is typical of the Santa Catalina mix, having worked in some of the best kitchens in America, Africa, Asia and Europe before settling here.

His Viennese style shop is the perfect stop for coffee and croissant, one made properly with layers and layers of butter.

TÁR TA RO

restaurante

by Toni

Monday to Saturday 1pm-4pm and 7:30pm-11:30pm Sunday closed Calle Cotoner, 27, 07013 Santa Catalina, Palma de Mallorca tel: 971 45 74 42

www.tartaro.es

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Keeping up with Charlie T

HERE are few things as pleasurable as making your own chocolate.

But that is what chef Tino Wolter gets to do every day at his magical cocoa shop Cachao Chocolates in the heart of Santa Catalina.

Having worked in Michelin starred restaurants in Germany, he loves mixing up local ingredients with the amazing quality beans he gets from an ecological farm in Bali, Indonesia.

This includes Mallorcan salt, as well as oranges and apricots from around the island.

“I love to invent things and here I have the freedom to create whatever I like,” Tino tells the Olive Press.

He knows exactly where every ingredient has come from, carefully choosing every product, such as coconut blossom nectar and vanilla.

The beans are naturally grown around mango, pepper, vanilla and coconut trees, unlike plantations that provide 90 percent of the world’s cocoa.

“I like to work with local people, someone might bring in something fresh from their farm, and I'll turn it into something special,” Tino explains of his

TINO: Chocolate connoisseur creative process.

The chocolate comes as raw, vegan, organic, gluten-free, dairy and sugar-free.

The shop, which is part of Santa Catalina’s B Connected group, can be found in Carrer Soler.

DELICIOUS: Melt in your mouth

Cocktail kings FOR nightlife Santa Catalina has some excellent spots to let your hair down.

Few places beat the bars around the Hotel Hostal Cuba, where it usually gets busy from around 8pm, while the Es Jonquet area gets living from the middle of the afternoon most weekends.

Anyone looking for the perfect cocktail though should head to Coupe on Calle Fabrica, which has a very cool feel.

Run by Cuban maestro Michael (right), you won’t however just get the best Cuba Libres and Mojitos, the team do a mean Caipirinha, and gin and tonics.

Another cocktail specialist is Sergio (below) at Kurobota, who has invented half a dozen of his own unique cocktails. Best of all, they can be enjoyed with some of the tastiest food in the area.

Around midnight the place to hang out is the Three Lions pub, where there is live music every night of the week and it’s busy until 5am.

The popular pub, run by Bulgarian Ivan and his wife, shows nearly every football game and he has a mean pint of Guinness.

Another great place for a Guinness and to hang out is Molly Malone up the road.

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Ceviche Queen

N

O-ONE could begrudge calling Irene Gutierrez the ‘Ceviche Queen’ of the Balearics.

The Peruvian masterchef, from Cuzco, has created dozens of different ceviches during her 12 years living in Mallorca.

“There are 16 basic types that I do, and each one has variations,” the chef from Sumaq tells the Olive Press.

“I make sure there are at least six on each of my menus at any one time.”

The chef, who also runs PIRUW in Santa Catalina, uses a team of five cooks to help her create them, two fellow Peruvians, a Filipino, a Ukrainian and a Spaniard.

But she admits: “The ones I create when I am hungry are the best. They always come out

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Sumaq chef creates dozens of the celebrated Peruvian speciality each year at her Santa Catalina headquarters

more inspired.”

Either way, she likes to change the recipes slightly every four months or so.

“We always use a lot of local and seasonal produce, and I like to incorporate that into my ceviches,” she continues. “Each one has lime, onion and various herbs, but then they fall into three broad categories of fish, seafood, including squid and scallops, and crustaceans, including prawns and lobster.”

Ceviches fit into three basic categories 1. Fish 2. Seafood 3. Crustaceons

SUMAQ Carrer de Cotoner, 44, 07013 Palma Carretera PalmaAndratx Nº 37, 07181 Portals Nous Tel: 696 52 67 58

IRENE: Has found her food niche

TRIO OF DELIGHTS: Irene presents a red tuna ceviche including ponzu sauce, cucumber and seaweed, an exotic ceviche including salmon, avocado and passion fruit and a ceviche Chifa, incorporating white fish, sweetcorn and sweet potato SERVING: Her famous ceviches

COFFEE, DRINK, FOOD & MORE

CARRER D’ANNIBAL 16B | 07013 SANTA CATALINA | PALMA | INFO & RESERVAS: +34 871.034.993 | HORARIO: LU- VI: 8.00 - 17.00, SA: 9.00- 19.00, DO: 9.00 - 14.00 #CLAROMALLORCA