The Shout NZ September 2020

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST LIQUOR AUDIENCE

SEPTEMBER 2020 | www.theshout.co.nz

CREATE WITH CAMPARI

Sharing bitter creations from New Zealand’s best bartenders and venues.

contents

september

The Shout Editor, Charlotte Cowan

2020

WE’RE BACK - BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER

It’s been a challenging year to say the least and as we go to print, NZ is going through another outbreak of COVID-19. Bars, clubs and pubs are once again closed or restricted and our thoughts go out to all the hospitality operators during this difficult and unknown time.

During lockdown, we at The Shout NZ had a chance to reflect on our offering to you. We focussed on boosting our website and social media content and as a result, we tripled our online readership, grew our social media following and increased our eNewsletters from fortnightly to weekly to meet demand.

With such a positive response from our readers, we decided you need more from us! So going forward, The Shout NZ will be coming to you bi-monthly as a stand-alone magazine. Double the size of our former magazine, we will be featuring even more essential local and international liquor news, insights and features for the on- and off-premise.

We are dedicated to consistently offering insightful content to you, our valued audience.

And with a brand new magazine, comes a brand new Sales Manager.

We are thrilled to welcome Brigitte Kolver onto our growing and expert team. Brigitte has an extensive background in print and digital media, having worked across various leading consumer and trade Brigitte Kolver publications. You can contact her about your advertising needs on bkolver@intermedianz.co.nz.

We hope you enjoy our new magazine – this issue has everything from insights into the state of the liquor nation in New Zealand on pgs 10-13, to Chardonnay tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS on pgs 14-16, to the explosion of the gin category on pgs 22-24.

And I am always keen to hear about any new products, openings, news, insights or features, you can contact me any time on ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz.

Take care, New Zealand. Kia Kaha.

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4 INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHTS 7 ON SHOW

19 THE DARK SIDE: PORTER & STOUT

8 SPOTLIGHT ON A LOCAL

Tash McGill takes a look at the epic rise of gin distilleries in New Zealand

This month’s must-try new releases

Auckland Viaduct bar Saint Alice

10 THE STATE OF THE LIQUOR NATION

Experts share the challenges faced by the industry so far in 2020

John Ozsajca delves deep into these delicious brews

22 THE GREAT GIN BOOM 26 SINGAPORE SLING

The history of this iconic cocktail and how to make it

27 CELEBRITY STAR POWER: WHEN DOES

14 CHARDONNAY UPDATE 2020

IT WORK?

Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS

Exploring the liquor brands and categories that are benefitting the most from celebrity backing

18 FACING COMPETITION IN THE FMCG

30 HOW TO CONNECT DURING COVID-19

LIQUOR CATEGORY

Tips on staying in touch with export markets

Tony Puppyn, Director of Storelink Sales Limited, talks SMAs

PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group (NZ) Ltd PO Box 109 342, Newmarket, Auckland 1149 Managing Director Simon Grover Group Publisher Paul Wootton

Associate Publisher Craig Hawtin-Butcher craig@intermedia.com.au

Publishing Assistant Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz

Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz ph 021 774 080

Art Director Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au

Sales Manager Brigitte Kolver bkolver@intermedianz.co.nz ph 027 294 5113

Production Manager Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au Subscription Enquiries subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

For more amazing liquor news (and even a few giveaways), make sure you follow us on Instagram and Facebook @theshoutnz and sign up to our weekly eNewsletter at www.theshout.co.nz.

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THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 3

news

Three New Zealand distilleries win Gold at the IWSC spirits awards The International Wine & Spirits Competition has announced its spirits results (with the exception of Scotch whisky) with three New Zealand distilleries awarded Gold Medals for their gin entries.

Gins were split into two main categories: London Dry and Contemporary, and a record number was entered this year.

Producers from the UK to Singapore created “top quality examples across an array of increasingly innovative styles”, according to organisers.

Golds were given to Hastings Distillers’ Albertine Gin, Lighthouse Distillers’ Batch Distilled Gin and Scapegrace Distilling’s Classic Gin. New Zealand distilleries were also awarded seven Bronze Medals and three Silvers for a range of entries including gin, limoncello and vodka liqueur.

“We’re really thrilled with the recent medals at the IWSC,” says Scapegrace’s Daniel Mclaughlin.

“All of our spirits are handcrafted with care and attention, so it’s fantastic to be recognised on the world stage out of 600 gins, from 90 different countries.”

Kate Galloway from Hastings Distillers says that as a small, family-run business, it’s an honour to be recognised so highly with a Gold Medal.

“But for us, it’s bigger than the brand,” she says. “It proudly shows the world that gins from New Zealand are strong global competitors.

“All our products are certified organic and most of our ingredients are sourced locally.

We think this award also acknowledges our dedicated organic growers throughout Hawke’s Bay and New Zealand and will help put New Zealand on the world map for spirits as well as wine.”

Other categories judged in the awards included worldwide whisky, mezcal and tequila, and cognacs and armagnacs.

“Despite all that is happening in the world at the moment, experienced industry professionals can still be wowed by incredible spirits,” says Joel Harrison, IWSC panel chair.

On the last day of judging, panel chairs re-tasted the top performers from each category to settle on an overall category champion. The trophy results will be announced this month.

Otago Polytechnic to offer free brewing qualifications The NZQA Brewing Qualification offered through Otago Polytechnic has been approved to be funded through the Targeted Training & Apprenticeships Fund.

The inclusion in the fund means that the qualification will be free for students for the next two-and-half years.

Developed after significant industry consultation in 2017- 2018, the courses were launched by Otago Polytech in 2019 and include Level 4, 5 and 6 Certificates.

Level 4 is for those who are new to the industry or a long-time home brewer, Level 5 is broadly equivalent to the IBD Diploma in Brewing and Level 6 is a significant component of the IBD Master Brewers certificate.

“Developing a long-term skilled workforce is a key area of focus,” says the Brewers Guild of New Zealand.

“At a time when industry members may have a bit more time on their hands, we think it’s a great opportunity to learn some new skills or have your existing skills benchmarked and confirmed through the achievement of qualifications.”

The next Level 4 course begins on 17 February 2021, and the Level 5 and 6 have rolling enrolments and commence at the start of any month.

For more information or to apply, visit www.central.op.ac.nz/study/brewing.

4 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

Good news, bad news for NZ wine competitions There has been good news and bad news for different wine awards in New Zealand as organisations scramble to re-organise events during the COVID-19 pandemic.

NZ Wine of the Year was cancelled for 2020 and will now take place in 2021.

NZ Winegrowers says that due to the impact that COVID-19 had, and is still having, on the New Zealand wine industry, they need to re-prioritise their focus and therefore made the decision not to hold the competition in 2020.

However, the New World Wine Awards, The New Zealand International Wine Show 2020, the 2020 Hawke’s Bay Bayleys Wine Awards and The 2020 Marlborough Wine Show have all confirmed they are going ahead this year.

The New World Wine Awards was judged last month, with more than 1200 wines blind-tasted over 10 days in the country’s biggest wine regions, led by Chief Judge Jim Harré.

With these regional events a first in the awards’ 18-year history, the change to the system was designed to ensure the awards could continue safely and effectively during every COVID-19 Level, with the exception of Level 4, says a New World representative.

Judging for The New Zealand International Wine Show is to be held at QBE North Harbour Stadium from September 21st – 23rd followed by an awards dinner in Auckland on October 31.

In the regions, the 2020 Hawke’s Bay Bayleys Wine Awards will be held on the 15th October 2020 at the Tomoana Showgrounds Hawke’s Bay. “The event staff are working on some changes to the evening to ensure the sole focus is all about celebrating the achievements of the incredible wineries in Hawke’s Bay,” says the event’s Facebook page.

And entries for The 2020 Marlborough Wine Show are now open, with a celebration and trophy announcement on 30th October.

news

Low carbon, low waste spirits distribution technology launches in NZ Spirits distributors Proof & Company has announced the launch of ecoSPIRITS in New Zealand.

A closed-loop distribution system that nearly eliminates packaging waste in the premium spirits supply chain, ecoSPIRITS took four years to develop.

“We are excited to bring the ecoSPIRITS technology to one of the most important hospitality markets in Asia Pacific,” says Paul Gabie, CEO of ecoSPIRITS. “ecoSPIRITS delivers a dramatic reduction in beverage waste generated by bars, restaurants and hotels. This means less glass and carboard waste in landfills.”

With each single use glass bottle eliminated, ecoSPIRITS saves at least 550 grams of carbon emissions. This means each cocktail or spirits pour with ecoSPIRITS saves 30 grams of carbon emissions.

Launched in New Zealand earlier this year, a range of craft spirits are now available in ecoSPIRITS format, including Plantation Rum, Widges Gin, Tried & True Vodka and Arquitecto Tequila.

“The response from the trade to the ecoSPIRITS proposition of reduced cost for quality spirits, alongside such a substantial

Who is Proof & Company?

It all started with a cocktail bar … in Singapore. Proof & Company’s journey started with the opening of 28 HongKong Street in Singapore in 2011, where the founders collaborated with industry stalwarts, including Michael Callahan and Zdenek Kastanek, to help spread cocktail culture in the rising city state. What followed was an epic boom in cocktail and craft spirits culture, with Proof & Company opening in 2012 to bring craft spirits, quality cocktail ingredients and premium barware to the fast-growing bar community.

Fast forward to 2020, and Proof & Company is now one of Asia Pacific’s leading independent spirits companies. From offices in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Shenzhen, Melbourne, Sydney and Auckland, Proof & Company champion independent producers, often family- or founder-owned, and work closely with clients to elevate their bar programs.

waste and carbon footprint reduction, has been remarkable,” says Paul Broadbent, General Manager of Proof & Company, Australia & New Zealand.

For more information, visit www.ecospirits.global/ or contact your Proof & Company representative, or via email at auckland@proofandcompany.com.

sponsored profile

Proof & Company’s awardwinning team of Spirits Evangelists, led by Creative Director Jason Williams, is one of the most well-regarded creative teams in the cocktail and spirits community globally. Five of their client bars ranked in the World’s 100 Best Bars in 2016, 2017 and 2018, including ATLAS, Manhattan Bar and the little cocktail bar where it all started.

JERRY, Proof & Company’s modern beverage learning platform, works with a collection of renown bartender professors, including Steve Schneider, Dean Callan, and Monica Berg, to deliver online professional education to leading bars, restaurants and hotels in Australia and across the region.

Proof & Company New Zealand now distributes a broad portfolio of independent spirit brands, including international offerings from Plantation Rum, Peddler’s Gin, Arquitecto Tequila, most recently, ready-to-serves’ Curatif, and the world’s first environmentally sustainable, low-carbon, low-waste distribution technology, ecoSPIRITS. Passionate about bars, hospitality, and smaller brands. Think Independent, Drink Independent.

To find out what Proof & Company can do for you, contact your local Proof & Company rep, or our local office at auckland@proofandcompany.com THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 5

news

WHAT’S ON

NZ Spirits Awards winners announced in virtual ceremony “For what is a relatively young industry in New Zealand, we are seeing sophisticated spirits being produced here, and they are standing up strongly against some of the most recognised brands in the world,” says Spirits NZ Chief Executive, Robert Brewer.

“Right now we are seeing a renaissance in spirits and a shift to premiumisation – that’s people drinking less but perhaps spending a little more to enjoy a quality beverage.”

The NZ Spirits Awards announced its trophy winners in a live virtual awards ceremony last month, with the planned awards dinner cancelled due to Level 3 restrictions in Auckland.

The most anticipated category – gin – was won by the National Distillery Company’s Hemp Gin; and for the second year running, the whisky trophy went to the Talisker 10.

“The crafting of fine spirits respects long-standing history and tradition, but it’s important for the industry to embrace innovation, new flavours and techniques, and to keep an open mind and challenge the status quo,” says Sue James, Chair of Distilled Spirits Aotearoa.

Great Barrier Island’s Island Gin received this year’s New Zealand Innovation Award for its copper pot-distilled gin presented in a Kina-inspired bottle made of reclaimed glass.

“This award recognises unique or new processes, imagery and packaging design, recipes, flavours or products,” says James.

“This beautiful bottle, packaged on a solar-powered packaging line, is instantly recognisable, and invokes wonderful images of New Zealand island life, beaches and summer.”

After a delay of several months, judging for the awards took place under Alert Level 1 in July, with 54% of entries from New Zealand and 46% from overseas.

Corona named world’s most valuable beer despite pandemic name clash 6 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

NZ Spirits Awards Trophy Winners 2020 New Zealand Innovation Award Winner: Island Gin Highly commended: Lunatic & Lover – Botanical Rum Silver Batch No 1 Begin Distilling – Juno Trailblazer’s Four-Pack Rum – Best New Zealand in category Winner: Helmsman spiced rum Gin – Best New Zealand in category; AND Best overall in category Winner: National Distillery Company Hemp Gin Rum – Best overall in category Winner: Havana Club 7 Year Old Vodka – Best New Zealand in category; AND Best overall in category Winner: 42 Below Passion Liqueur – Best New Zealand in category; AND Best overall in category Winner: Sovrano Caffelisir coffee liqueur Whisky – Best New Zealand in category Winner: Thomson Whisky South Island Peat Single Malt Botanicals and other spirits – Best overall in category Winner: Herradura Ultra Anejo Whisky – Best overall in category Winner: Talisker 10 Year Old Brandy – Best overall in category Winner: Martell XO

Brand Finance has published its 2020 Alcoholic Drinks report which reveals the world’s most valuable liquor brands.

Corona was named the most valuable beer brand for 2020 with a value of US$8.1 billion.

“The leading Mexican brand is imported into a staggering 120 countries and sales remain solid across its key markets,” says Brand Finance in its report.

Brand Finance says that with China being Corona’s largest market, outside of Mexico, the unfortunate combination of the coincidence in name and strict nationwide lockdown across the nation at the beginning of the year over Chinese New Year has caused a decline in sales.

But the makers of Corona have hit back,

September 12 WINTER ALES FESTIVAL The Hunter Lounge, Wellington www.winterales.co.nz October 1-31 COCKTAIL WELLINGTON www.visawoap.com October 3 ‘IT’ BAY OF ISLANDS WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Paihia www.paihianz.co.nz October 9-10 WINETOPIA Wellington www.winetopia.co.nz October 12 HOP’N’VINE CRAFT BEER Wine & Food Festival Invercargill www.hopnvine.co.nz OCTOBER 25 FIRST LIGHT WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Gisborne www.firstlightwineandfood.co.nz OCTOBER 30-31 WINETOPIA Auckland www.winetopia.co.nz OCTOBER 31 GREATER WELLINGTON BREW DAY Wellington www.brewday.co.nz OCTOBER 31 NEW ZEALAND INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOW AWARDS DINNER Auckland www.nziws.co.nz

saying that consumers understand that there is no link between the beer and the virus causing the global pandemic.

In the spirits category, Chinese baijiu brands once again took out the top three. Moutai remains number one, up 29% to a value of US$39.3 billion. Wuliangye came in second (up 30% to US$20.9bn) and Yanghe third (down 15% to US$7.7bn).

And for Champagne & wine, Moët & Chandon has claimed the title of the most valuable brand in Brand Finance’s inaugural ranking, followed by Chinese winery Changyu and Australia’s Chandon.

No New Zealand liquor brands were named in this year’s lists.

product showcase

RABBIT RANCH BRIGHT EYES WHITE PINOT NOIR 2020 Rabbit Ranch has released a new-look at Pinot Noir through a white wine lens. Premium Central Otago Pinot Noir grapes were hand-picked cold and delicately pressed, colour removed and then fermented as white juice. The result is a fresh, crisp white wine perfect for those lazy summer days. Notes of red apple, melon and spice in a dry style. Best served chilled.

RRP $23.99 Contact: (03) 442 6110 www.rabbitranch.co.nz

CURATIF COCKTAILS Curatif, the producer of exceptional ready-to-serve can cocktails, has announced the release of two new products into the New Zealand market. The ultimate Archie Rose Espresso Martini balances nuanced vodka from Australia’s preeminent craft distillery and bespoke coffee sourced, roasted, and ground by the industry-renowned experts at Seven Seeds Coffee. And the Negroni combines Four Pillars Spiced Negroni Gin (recognised twice at the Global Gin Masters) with the Italian bitter aperitif Campari, and the sweet vermouth Martini Rosso. These cocktails are superlative, considered - they are a Curatif.

RRP $39.99 for a four-pack Contact: auckland@proofandcompany.com www.curatif.com/ www.proofandcompany.com

w o h s n o ases.

This

REKORDERLIG STRAWBERRY Refreshing, with full flavour and a crisp finish, this new Rekorderlig Strawberry cider (4% ABV) distributed by DB Breweries is slightly drier than its zesty partner, Strawberry-Lime.

Sure to be a favourite among Rekorderlig drinkers, serve it over ice with mint leaves or add your favourite fruit.

RRP $6.49 per bottle Contact: (0800) 746 432 www.db.co.nz

FOUR PILLARS OLIVE LEAF GIN The most exciting release from Australian distillers Four Pillars since Bloody Shiraz, the Olive Leaf Gin (43.8% ABV) is made using cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil and olive leaf from three varieties of olive. They are combined with seven other classic and uniquely Australian botanicals to produce a gin that is savoury, textural, bright and truly one of a kind. Available through TicketyBoo from this month.

RRP: $89.90 per 700mL Contact: (09) 377 7597 www.tickety-boo.co.nz

new rele y r t t s u m month’s

ROCKBURN EIGHT AND ELEVEN BARRELS PINOT NOIR 2019 Rockburn Wines has launched two top-tier Pinot Noirs from the highlyanticipated 2019 vintage. The Eight Barrels Pinot Noir 2019 is made from grapes grown in the cooler Gibbston sub-region and the Eleven Barrels Pinot Noir 2019 from the Parkburn site in Lowburn.

The Barrels series showcases the pinnacle of Rockburn’s Pinot Noir offering, releasing wines that speak of their sub-region, site and season in years the temperamental Central Otago climate puts on a show. Available at selected wine retailers, restaurants and online now.

RRP $96.00 Contact: (021) 832 021 www.rockburn.co.nz

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 7

on-premise

SPOTLIGHT ON A LOCAL:

Saint Alice

With tough times both behind us and ahead, The Shout NZ is throwing our support behind Kiwi locals.

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et high above Auckland’s Viaduct, Saint Alice is known for its amazing views and open air deck.

Owner Callum O’Brien shares the ups and downs of bar life in New Zealand’s biggest city in 2020.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE SAINT ALICE AND ITS ATMOSPHERE? A large bar and eatery overlooking Auckland’s Viaduct basin with a massive open air deck which basks in the afternoon sunshine. On a sunny day you’ll find the deck packed with people, sipping local craft beers and eating an array of epic wood fired pizza and small plates, whilst enjoying local DJs playing their favourite vinyl.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO ENCOURAGE LOCALS TO RETURN TO YOUR VENUE DURING LEVEL 2 AND BELOW? We did some renovations coming out of lockdown earlier this year to make the space a more relaxed and casual environment. We created more space for people to move around if social distancing was needed, and we relaxed the whole concept to make it a more social space.

We also added two massive wood-fired pizza ovens to cook our pizzas (and a lot of the wood fired small plates we have) and have changed up our beer list to support local craft breweries (with 10 of them now on tap).

During Levels 1 and 2, we run plenty of deals on the local craft beers to help their businesses, and we have also partnered with Eat My Lunch and are donating one kids’ lunch for every wood fired pizza sold.

WHAT ARE THE POSITIVES AND NEGATIVES THAT HAVE COME OUT OF 2020 FOR YOUR BUSINESS? Firstly, the obvious negative is the financial burden of having to close a business for several months of the year. This puts 8 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

massive stress on everyone from us as owners, to the staff, and our suppliers, which is never nice.

In terms of positives, I think it has brought our whole team closer together as a group - going through bad times together always does this. We also had time to reflect on what we wanted the business to be in the future and to tweak parts of the concept to work towards this.

We had the time to get our function space Little Alice (which is out the back of Saint Alice) all finished and fully fitted out and ready for a busy summer of functions.

We never really had the time to do this before but now it is looking amazing and a real quality extension of the Saint Alice space.

WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN HIRING BAR STAFF FOR YOUR VENUES? The key part to getting people on board is having them fit into the wider team as a whole. Personality and attitude is key rather than hospitality experience. I am always of the belief that if someone has the right personality and willingness to learn, that is far more important that years of experience. We want people that the other staff get along with, and that the customers love!

WHAT WILL BE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FOR SAINT ALICE IN THE COMING MONTHS? The unknown. It is hard to know what

the real plan is for future outbreaks of COVID-19. New Zealand has done an incredible job of getting the virus under control, but as a business that can’t work from home, we cannot really afford to be in and out of lockdown over the next 2-3 years like this year. We were just building up business again after the last lockdown so this latest open is a real kick in the guts.

WHY DOES SAINT ALICE STAND OUT FROM OTHER BARS? Our location. Perched on the second level and with a fully opening roof out the front - it can’t be beaten. Even on a wet wintery day, the roof closes and the sides of the deck all drop down to shelter customers from the weather - thus all year round they can hang out with us with the best views in Auckland! ■

sponsored

s

ince its creation in Novara, Italy, in 1860, bartenders have loved using Campari.

To show their support for local bars, Campari New Zealand and EuroVintage have announced the Create Bitter Together initiative.

Create Bitter Together encourages bartenders to design and produce bitter drinks which will be publicised by Campari – in a celebration of not only the art of cocktail-making, but more importantly highlighting the spirit of the on-premise experience.

And what better way than over a classic Negroni or new creation with Campari at its red heart.

HOW TO TAKE PART IN CREATE BITTER TOGETHER If you’re a bar or restaurant interested in creating with Campari, sign up with your EuroVintage rep to receive a kit containing Campari, Cinzano Rosso Vermouth and Bulldog Gin. Come up with a Campari Negroni creation – or a series of drinks – and send to Campari on Instagram or Facebook (@CampariNZ) including the recipe, photo, venue name and social handles.

If you prefer, you can also email your Create Bitter Together drinks to the Campari team.

Campari will then promote your drink and your venue through @CampariNZ social and other paid media.

Get in touch too if you would like to go bigger with Create Bitter Together in your venue.

Top drinks and venues selected by Campari have the opportunity to work with Frankie Walker and Black Pineapple to share their Create Bitter Together creation with consumers, direct to their homes.

As part of Create Bitter Together, Campari is also giving bartenders themselves the chance to win one of eight $500 prize packs by sharing their own Campari creations to Instagram and tagging @CampariNZ and #CreateBitterTogether. Prizes awarded weekly throughout September and October.

For those outside of the hospitality industry, Campari invites you, wherever possible, to pull up a seat at your local cocktail bar or participating restaurant and ask your bartender for a recommendation: “Something red, bitter and unmistakably Campari”. Let’s Create Bitter Together. ■

Contact your EuroVintage rep today to sign up before October 2nd.

To submit your drinks and discuss further support, contact annabel.buckley@campari.com

RECIPE FOR THE CLASSIC NEGRONI INGREDIENTS 30ml Campari 30ml sweet red vermouth (we recommend Cinzano Rosso) 30ml gin (we recommend Bulldog) METHOD Add Campari, vermouth and gin into an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir well and strain over ice/ice cube in rocks glass. Use a twist of orange to express aromatic citrus oils over the drink then discard and garnish with a slice of fresh orange.

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 9

liquor THE STATE OF THE NATION

Charlotte Cowan asks New Zealand liquor experts to share their insights on the challenges the industry has faced in 2020 so far, and what lies ahead.

10 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

industry insights

w

hen New Zealanders stood with their friends and yelled “Happy New Year” on January 1, no one could have predicted 2020 would pan out quite like this.

With New Zealand alternating between Alert Levels 2, 3 and 4 since March (with a small break between the end of May and beginning of August), local bars, pubs, wineries, breweries and distilleries have been sent into turmoil. With no onsite customers permitted during Levels 3 and 4, limited capacity for production and strict hygiene measures in place, the liquor industry has had to find new ways to stay afloat. Many have thrived but most have just barely survived – so what is the state of the liquor nation in New Zealand now?

KEEPING SPIRITS UP For many local distilleries, Level 4 brought with it a steep learning curve.

With the closure of the hospitality sector – therefore limited retail sales, no face-toface market visits and the cancellation of major events such as food shows – digital marketing and online sales became a necessity. Distilleries scrambled to streamline e-commerce systems and websites to capitalise on digital sales and according to Sue James, Chairperson of Distilled Spirits Aotearoa, these sales were initially massive.

“Cash flow was helped by selling directly to the customer at full margin, although New Zealand’s spread-out population was a wake-up call, with some rural deliveries absorbing much of the profit margin,” she says.

But James says the increase in website sales did not completely compensate for the significant loss of income in other areas. For example, the loss of international tourism and airport dutyfree directly impacted – and continues to impact – the significant sales of “souvenir” New Zealand spirits.

However, James says that distilleries immediately identified that they needed to catch the attention of the consumers who were experimenting with a method of sales that most had not used before.

“New products were rushed off the block,” she says. “Premixed spirit RTDs, and innovations such as pre-cocktail packs (mixer, spirit and garnish in one box) took advantage of Sue James, Chairperson of Distilled Spirits Aotearoa the lockdown state

“WE CAN’T JUST COMPLAIN AND PUT OUR HANDS OUT. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT WE WORK THROUGH PROBLEMS AND RELY ON EACH OTHER FOR A LEG UP.” DYLAN FIRTH, BREWERS ASSOCIATION of the nation where each of the items was complicated to source individually.”

At least 12 New Zealand distilleries ventured into making hand sanitisers and utilised innovative packaging, sizes and giveaways. One local distillery reported making more profit in five weeks from hand sanitiser than they had from nine months previous spirit sales.

Over the last six months, James says the New Zealand distilled spirit industry has gained an increased number of aspirants looking for change, or forced into change, who see spirit distilling as an option.

“The increase in the number of New Zealand distilleries is going to grow the offerings to the consumer and challenge financial models,” she says. “Making money with one product in a saturated market is very difficult, and distilleries have high overheads.”

James says successful distilleries will need to diversify their product range, focus on margin and higher value revenue streams.

“Export with the power of ‘Brand NZ’ is a likely important step. The next two to three years will see a rationalisation in the industry – consolidation of small distilleries, collaborations within the wider beverage industry to leverage strengths, and possibly buyout by overseas interests.”

Overall, James says most distilleries report that they feel there is more vigour and energy in the trade and consumers than ever. “We are OK,” she says.

DON’T JUST GRIN AND BEER IT COVID-19 has significantly affected all sectors of the liquor industry but according to Dylan Firth, Executive Director of the Brewers Association of New Zealand, beer consumption was down even before the virus hit New Zealand.

“The January to March quarter saw a reduction in beer consumption of 11% compared to the same period in 2019,” he says.

And during lockdown there was a significant change in demand for the style of beer consumers were seeking out – choosing classic brands over craft.

Rory Glass, Dylan Firth, Brewers Managing Director Association of New Zealand of Lion NZ, Executive Director says they saw a definite move from consumers back to more traditional trusted brands in the beer market. “The sustained growth and success of Steinlager over this period emphasises the strength of trusted brands in times of uncertainty,” he says.

With these impacts in mind, Dylan Firth says it’s imperative for the brewing industry to not just throw their hands up during these uncertain times.

“We can’t just complain and put our hands out. It is important that we work through problems and rely on each other for a leg up,” he says.

According to Firth, the next two to three years is essential to ensuring the brewing and wider hospitality sectors can operate at a level where those invested in businesses and employing New Zealanders can survive.

“Levels of debt held by small businesses in the sector are unlikely to be sustainable long term,” he says. “So brewers and other suppliers will need to continue to support the sector.

“To date we have seen suppliers providing refunds on spoilt stock due to lockdown, advancements on credit, deferred payment on loans and multimillion dollar spend on marketing to get people out and about.”

Firth says the hospitality and tourism sectors are integral complementary industries for the wider brewing community, with beer sales through the hospitality sector representing approximately 63% of sales by value in New Zealand.

“This will no doubt see a hit with consumers being cautious with discretionary spend and the uncertainty of what will happen once the wage subsidy ends,” he says. “Not to mention the complete lack of international visitors to New Zealand, who spent over a quarter of a billion dollars on beer in the 2018/19 year to March.”

Firth says given the current and ongoing uncertainty for hospitality, it is important the government continues to be focused on supporting the sector.

“The perception of business as usual is THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 11

industry insights dangerous and can lead to those with the ability to help, leaving us to our devices and ultimately some businesses going under,” he says.

“This may require further financial support from the government to ensure industry survival due not only to COVID-19 but also the recent minimum wage and alcohol excise increases.

“A proactive government, focused on the hospitality sector and the ongoing support of the brewing sector and other suppliers, will mean hospitality and tourism can once again thrive.”

JOY AND CHALLENGES IN WINE Perhaps the biggest positive to come from the past few months in the liquor industry is the exceptional vintage of 2020. While winemakers had to ensure social distance was upheld during harvest, winemaking was considered an essential service during Level 4 lockdown and Cameron Douglas MS is reporting the 2020 could be the best one since 2014 (see pg 14).

Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers, says the industry is acutely aware that they were in an incredibly privileged position to be allowed to complete harvest. “Throughout the entire lockdown, our number one priority remained – ensuring the safety of our people and our communities,” he says. “The fact that more than 400,000 tonnes of grapes were harvested, and no COVID-19 clusters developed in our industry, testifies to how our industry fully embraced the challenges to work safely during vintage 2020.”

However, following a successful harvest, Gregan says the biggest challenge was the major export markets going into lockdown. “[With] international borders closed, and no gatherings permitted, many wine businesses have moved into virtual execution, creating digital initiatives to connect with the trade and consumers,” he says. “These initiatives included online wine tastings hosted by winemakers, and were virtually attended by New Zealand wine lovers all over the globe.”

In terms of impact on sales, Gregan says they are currently seeing two situations happening in markets.

“There has been strong demand for New Zealand wine in supermarkets and online Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers retail, which has 12 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

benefited our industry. But, on the other hand, many wineries who are focused on cellar doors sales and especially hospitality, have been negatively impacted,” he says.

Looking forward, Gregan says the challenge will be when the borders reopen; how quickly wine businesses can get back into the market, and how long it takes for international tourists to return.

“This year has been full of uncertainties, and how the next year is going to play out is the big unknown,” he says.

“Encouragingly, the reputation of our wine remains strong both here in New Zealand and in our key international markets, and our wines continue to resonate with consumers and the trade.

“While the world has changed, what has not changed is the love that people have for New Zealand wine.”

THE RESILIENCE OF ON-PREMISE The majority of on-premise liquor businesses in New Zealand could have never anticipated an imposed shutdown for a number of weeks, but experts say that bars, Julie White, pubs and clubs Hospitality NZ CEO have successfully responded and adapted to the restrictions placed on them.

“Hospitality operators are traditionally a creative bunch and most understand that you need to react early and adapt quickly or get left behind,” says Julie White, CEO of Hospitality New Zealand.

Many venues have adapted to COVID-19 restrictions by creating e-commerce platforms and offering takeaway menus – which is the only means of trade during Level 2 – or used the time to refurbish, renovate or alter the venue layout to allow for social distancing.

“By positioning TVs in new areas or making their outside space warmer and

“WHILE THE WORLD HAS CHANGED, WHAT HAS NOT CHANGED IS THE LOVE THAT PEOPLE HAVE FOR NEW ZEALAND WINE.” PHILIP GREGAN, NZ WINEGROWERS

cosier, it enabled premises to expand for extra capacity – to abide by social distancing requirements during Level 2 – and create additional areas in winter and the Bridget MacDonald, NZABC rugby season,” says Executive Director White.

Many bars are now using QR codes that allow customers to view the menu, order and pay. Bridget MacDonald, Executive Director of the New Zealand Alcohol Beverages Council, says this is a positive addition to the on-premise.

“Not only does it support swift ordering and service, it also means there are no menus or payment systems to handle, therefore easier to maintain hygiene standards,” she says. “Investing in this type of technology makes it easier for businesses to operate with restrictions.”

Rory Glass, Managing Director of Lion NZ, says that consumers are now more accepting about using technology in their hospitality experiences, especially when it speeds up convenience.

“Mobi2go, MNYou, ServeMe, ECQ services for in-venue ordering will become a way that venues can manage staff costs, whilst continuing to provide experiences,” he says.

While many of these innovative offerings were born out of necessity during lockdown, experts say many of these options will continue as they have performed well post lockdown.

“With businesses and customers alike embracing new ways and this type of innovation, we can expect more innovations to come,” says MacDonald.

Glass says the new initiatives created by the on-premise now contribute to between 3-10% of current revenue.

Going forward, all experts agree that venues must concentrate on providing great experiences, showcasing experiential offerings and push boundaries to encourage consumers to visit their venue and provide them what they can’t get at home.

“This is not about selling a product or experience for less, nor is it about undercutting your competitors,” says MacDonald.

“It’s more about Rory Glass, Managing Director of Lion NZ embracing what

industry insights it is that you do best and understanding your unique proposition, then adding value through delivering quality service, products and experiences.”

Julie White says building good relationships with locals and neighbours - including neighbouring businesses - as it’ll will go a long way in building rapport. “Endorsement by word of mouth is still the greatest source of marketing,” she says.

So while COVID-19 has brought the “most extreme shock” to even the most resilient local businesses, Kiwi on-premise owners are proving how resilient they can be when faced with adversity.

“They have been pulling out all stops to ensure they stay afloat, keep staff employed and deliver a quality experience to their customers,” says MacDonald.

However, she says it’s important not to be complacent.

“There is much uncertainty in our economic environment with a dip anticipated in the next few months – particularly as unemployment increases. It would serve businesses well to spend time developing a plan for how to get through potential challenges,” she says.

“Our hospitality venues are a vital part of our community and culture and an essential part of our economy. By working together and playing our part to support one another, we will come back stronger than ever.”

“IT’S MORE ABOUT EMBRACING WHAT IT IS THAT YOU DO BEST AND UNDERSTANDING YOUR UNIQUE PROPOSITION, THEN ADDING VALUE THROUGH DELIVERING QUALITY SERVICE, PRODUCTS AND EXPERIENCES.” BRIDGET MACDONALD, NZABC

most positive - cultural shift during and post lockdown has been New Zealanders embracing “support local” campaigns.

From initiatives such as “Cheers to Your Local” by Lion, which gave venues resources to help them get back up and operating, to encouraging Kiwis to explore their own back yard and buy New Zealand-made, “support local” campaigns are helping to boost the New Zealand economy. “[There is an] appreciation in staying local, buying local, and buying New Zealand-made,” says White. “We’ve seen an uplift in people interested in where products are made and SUPPORTING LOCAL where they’re from, so we hope that trend One of the biggest hits to the New Zealand continues.” liquor industry has been the loss of Sue James from Distilled Spirits Aotearoa international tourism. says that post-lockdown, there has been an No inbound flights, cruise ships or duty-free elevated interest in cellar doors and tours by have affected everything from retail sales, to New Zealanders. cellar doors, to on-premise.

“In some cases distilleries have reached “The domino effect from the drop in Christmas-level daily trading as New international tourism was felt by the sector,” Zealanders explore their home country,” says Julie White, CEO of Hospitality New she says.

Zealand. “From the likes of bus tours that Philip Gregan from NZ Winegrowers also always stop at the same hospitality locations says he has seen a shift towards buying and or venues that cater to international students, supporting local wineries. such as karaoke bars.”

“As people moved into lockdown, we saw But perhaps the biggest – and certainly a big increase in online sales, and since domestic tourism has opened back up, we have seen Kiwis exploring their own backyards, visiting our vines, and making the most of New Zealand wine tourism offerings,” he says.

Rory Glass says the hyperlocal trend is likely to continue for the foreseeable future. “If there is a retreat from the CBD, suburb town centres will become more vibrant like international cities,” he says.

“Wider choices will be required, or suburban venues would be With no international travel well placed to expand their allowed, Kiwis have been exploring their own backyard offering.” ■

REEFTON DISTILLING CO. Reefton Distilling Co. is one example of a thriving company during and following the COVID-19 lockdown. With a “flood of online orders” in the initial 24 hours of Level 4 back in March, the boutique distillery’s owner, Patsy Bass, says that volume of orders continued throughout April.

“When we saw the large number of online orders coming through after first closing the cellar door, we cried,” she says. “It was like a big warm cyber hug.”

Bass says Reefton Distilling Co. was able to continue production of small batch spirits with their “distillers in our bubble” and they bumped up social media marketing.

“We were able to continue to grow awareness and sales of our awardwinning spirits through our website, with online sales and courier delivery nationally a core sales channel for us,” she says.

The distillery also started producing hand sanitiser to a World Health Organisation (WHO) formulation in food grade stainless tanks.

“With science laboratory experience on our team, we had the right knowledge, environment and equipment to go into production of this much needed product,” she says.

“Although the impact of COVID-19 has been widely felt on the West Coast, as in other areas around the country, we are incredibly pleased to have been able to continue with plans to expand our business during this tough economic climate and prepare for export.”

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 13

y a n n o 20 0 2 d N I r a h C AS MS

OUGL D N O R E M Y CA

B

a

n exceptional vintage of unsurpassed quality.” This is a quote from Michael Brajkovich MW about the 2020 vintage – specifically for the Kumeu River Chardonnay he crafts.

Practically every winemaker in every region of New Zealand would echo Michael’s evaluation of the vintage – it has been stellar.

That said, across the last 10 harvests in New Zealand (2010 to 2019), there has been a steady decline in the plantings of Chardonnay. From 3,865 hectares in 2010 to just 3,167 in 2019, with the most notable drop in the 2015 harvest, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers Annual Report 2019.

Of the many contributing factors for this decline, the likely top three are an increase in plantings of other popular varieties, replanting programmes for Chardonnay and annual disease pressure. But this does not spell bad news for the variety at all, in fact Chardonnay is enjoying a resurgence of popularity.

While there is no standard style for New Zealand when it comes to Chardonnay, most regions are producing very good wine – the variety seems to like our climate and soil profiles. Regional styles are beginning to emerge as well.

For example, the leaner more mineral driven Otago expressions; tense and vibrant as well as mineral styles from North Canterbury; complex, crunchy and often pure expressions from Marlborough and Nelson through to the full weighty and rich rounded styles of

Gisborne and Northland.

Martinborough and Auckland both express the full range of styles – from lean and Chablis-like, through weighty, creamy and fully-bodied.

Great Chardonnay comes from a combination of excellent vintage conditions and specific vineyard management. The 2013, 2014, 2017 and 2019 vintages delivered many excellent wines. But 2018 was challenging for quite a few producers, with some regions doing better than others. Despite the challenges of the 2020 harvest with COVID-19 changing the rules for all activities in the vineyard and wineries, it will likely be one of the best vintages since 2014.

Chardonnay styles are also evolving, with a notable increase in the use of indigenous ferments, a move towards organic and biodynamically managed vineyards, lesser new oak used and a more hands-off approach in the winery.

Hands-off meaning once the grapes have been juiced and moved to a primary fermentation vessel, the Must is left to nature’s fermentation cycle (mostly). What this means for producers who allow this technique to unfold are wines with more complexity, natural flavours and textures.

Winemakers use their skills to shape the aromas and textures of Chardonnay through other techniques. For example, leaving some grape solids in the juice before fermentation, fermenting in stainless steel, concrete eggs or vats, large plastic tubs, new or used oak barrels of varying sizes and toast levels. Chardonnay is a variety that is well-suited to New Zealand.

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Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.

14 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

tasting notes TONY BISH SKEETFIELD HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2018 Exciting, sophisticated, varietal, complex, flinty moments with aromas of citrus peel and white peach, red apple and cashew, roasted nectarine and vanilla toasty wood spices. Complex. On the palate - immediately engages the senses with textures of oak and acidity, wood tannins and fruit flavours, a lovely mealy, almost salty, note. Weighty, creamy yet firmly youthful, lengthy complex finish. A wine for the cellar till 2021 or decant for service. Delicious!

Points 95 RRP $59.99 Distributors: Caros, Long Cloud Wines & Spirits, Wag & Co, Warburton Wines, Workshop Wines Phone: (06) 650 3353 www.tonybishwines.co.nz

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SACRED HILL RIFLEMANS HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 A delicious and enticing bouquet with aromas of cashew and ripe nectarine, peach, vanilla butter and a light smoky wood layer. Equally delicious on the palate - weighty, satin cream mouth feel, then with fine wood tannins adding weight, texture and length. Plenty of acidity, freshness and length along with flavours that mirror the nose. Well made, great balance and length with a clay stone mineral finish. Best drinking from 2022 through 2025.

Points 94 RRP $69.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Ltd Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com

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LAWSON’S DRY HILLS RESERVE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Complex and enticing bouquet, layers of fruit and wood spice, soil and brazil-nut oak, toasty barrel and baked custard. On the palate - creamy, weighty, fruity and loaded with personality. Flavours of fresh and baked stone fruits, grapefruit and apple.

Medium+ acidity, lots of texture, some fine wood tannins and long finish. Lots to like - a great tasting wine. Best drinking from today and through 2024.

Points 94 RRP $30.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (0800) 338766 www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

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BLACK BARN BARREL FERMENTED HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 Full, rich and toasty bouquet with aromas of French oak barrel and clove spices, roasted yellow orchard fruits, ripe grapefruit, cashew nut and silty earthy soil notes.

Complex and bold. On the palate - a mirror of what the nose suggests with roasted peaches and citrus, apple and pear flavours then textures from the wood tannins and

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warming alcohol balanced by the acid-line and core of ripe fruit. Lengthy finish, still in development mode though - so do give the wine some time in your cellar if you can. Best drinking from late early 2021 through 2026.

Points 94 RRP $39.90 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (06) 877 7985 www.blackbarn.com DOMAIN ROAD DEFIANCE CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2018 A fine example of Chardonnay with a near-perfect balance between fruit concentration and oak intensity. Flavours of white and yellow orchard fruits heavily laced with citrus, then baking spices of oak.

Medium+ acidity and weight, a satin texture contrasted with fine wood tannins. Lengthy finish and ready to enjoy as a young wine, but will also benefit from more cellar time.

Ideal drinking from late 2021 through 2025.

Points 93 RRP $32.00 Distributor: Co Pilot Phone: (03) 445 4244 www.domainroad.co.nz

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AKARUA BANNOCKBURN CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2019 In addition to being in its 20th vintage, Akarua showcases what teamwork in the vineyard and winery is all about with a very attractive cool climate bouquet showcasing aromas of lemon and white peach, blossoms and vanilla, fridge-cold butter and a leesy nutty layer. On the palate - youthful, fresh, crisp, citrusy and dry. Peach and oak, stone mineral flavours, a whisper of savoury complexity and a persistent even finish.

Well made with best drinking from today through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $29.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants Phone: (03) 445 0897 www.akarua.com

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SACRED HILL WINE THIEF HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 A complex and enticing bouquet lead by toasty oak and baking scents, then raw sugar and caramel notes. The stone fruits and citrus follows along with a dry stone earthy quality with a gun-flint leesy kick.

Weighty, ripe with plenty of oak flavour and vanilla butter moments. Well made with bold flavours that many Chardonnay fans will enjoy. Best drinking from mid 2021 through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $34.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Ltd Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com

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THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 15

tasting notes SQUAWKING MAGPIE THE GRAVELS HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 Aromas of French oak and yellow-fleshed stone fruits, grapefruit peel and raw sugar, blond tobacco and warm crushed stones. On the palate - dry, full-bodied and tasty with flavours of orchard fruits and oak, medium + acidity and a noticeable bite of wood. Salivating and lightly saline with a fine tannins, an overall chalk-like texture and a lengthy finish. Well made, youthful and still on its journey to full integration and harmony.

Best drinking from 2021 through 2025+.

Points 93 RRP $33.95 Distributor: Squawking Magpie Phone: (06) 878 1800 www.squawkingmagpie.co.nz

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WAIRAU RIVER RESERVE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Smoky, toasty, baked yellow fruit and apricot clafoutis aromas. Vanilla and roasted nut aromas of oak then apple, clove and peach. Full-bodied, youthful, medium+ acidity, woody with fine oak tannins then flavours of grapefruit and stone fruit return. Balanced and well made, youthful and vibrant. Best drinking from 2021 through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $30.00 Distributor: Federal Merchants Phone: (03) 572 9800 www.wairauriverwines.com

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HUNTER’S OFFSHOOT MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2018 Complex and wild, floral and textured, enticing and different. Flavours of white peach and lemon, wild flowers and leesy spices. There’s a flinty wet rock flavour, plenty of acidity then fruit flavours of peach and citrus, a touch of creamy custard and lengthy vibrant finish.

Different and interesting, fun and new.

Drink now and through 2023.

Points 93 RRP $34.90 Distributor: Hunter’s Wines Phone: (03) 572 8489 www.hunters.co.nz

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MATAHIWI ESTATE HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 Aromas and flavours of ripe peach and apricot, warm grapefruit, mild vanilla and other baking spices of oak and a gentle dry stone earthy quality. Almost full-bodied, medium+ acidity, a fine lees and wood tannin texture, lengthy finish, balanced and well made. Best drinking from today and through 2024.

Points 92 RRP $22.99 Distributor: Winery Direct Phone: (06) 370 1000 www.matahiwi.co.nz

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YEALANDS RESERVE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 A captivating bouquet with aromas of peaches and sea air, grapefruit and wood spice, warm toasty nutty oak and custard.

Full-bodied with a mild savoury core, fruit flavours mirror the nose, medium+ acidity and a lengthy even finish. Well made and ready to enjoy from 2021 through 2024+.

Points 92 RRP $18.95 Distributor: Yealands Wines Phone: (03) 575 7618 www.yealands.co.nz

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WILD EARTH WINES CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2019 An enticing bouquet with ripe almost sweet citrus, red apple and white peach aromas. Scents of medium toast wood spices then a white stone mineral layer.

Attractive and fresh with an inviting complexity. On the palate - youthful with a fleshy and salivating attack; flavours of sweet lemon, grapefruit and white fleshed stone fruits return. Fine fruit and wood tannins, a cashew and mild toasty wood layer, quite lengthy, medium+ weight and finishing dry. A lovely wine, just at the beginning of its settling in phase so best drinking from mid to late 2021 and through 2025.

Points 92 RRP $30.00 Distributor: Wild Earth Wines Phone: (027) 552 02 99 www.wildearthwines.co.nz

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Send in your sparkling wine or Champagne now for Cameron Douglas MS to taste and share your tasting notes in our November issue.

Visit www.theshout.co.nz for details.

16 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

wine

NEW ZEALAND

OrganicWine:

AN UPDATE

With Organic Wine Week taking place from 21-27 September, Sarah Booker from Organic Winegrowers NZ reports on the recent growth of this category.

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rganic grape-growing is vital to wine quality, land health, and worker and consumer well-being.

Consumers are now asking the important questions and their decisions to choose organic is feeding the growth of the organic and biodynamic wine industry.

IN NEW ZEALAND… As of January 2020, more than 10% of New Zealand wineries hold organic certification, with organic and biodynamic wine making up approximately 6% (by volume) of the total wine in New Zealand.

If we look at specific regions, Central Otago is leading the way. A detailed survey of growers in the region revealed that 17% (320ha) of vineyard in the region is now fully certified in organic/biodynamic production and an additional 6% (115ha) of the region is in the official three-year organic conversion process, where land must be managed to a certified organic standard for three years before full organic status is granted.

This means that an impressive total of 23% of the Central Otago’s vineyard area is now being farmed under certified organic or biodynamic practices.

In addition, one of the country’s largest and most famous wineries, Villa Maria Estate, has an goal of 100% organic for all its vineyard area by 2030.

We are seeing these sort of targets industry-wide, as organics resonates so strongly for our grapegrowers and winemakers. And it’s not only because it ties so strongly into the New Zealand ethos of caring for our land, for our place and for our people, but also our growers often report an increase in wine quality after becoming organic.

The annual Air New Zealand list of the country’s top fine wines revealed that of the 67 wines selected, 30% were certified organic.

GLOBALLY… How does New Zealand compare to international organic wineries in terms of numbers, production and exports?

According to the Organic Trade Association (OTA), the global market for organic beverages grew to 10.5% in 2017, with almost one billion bottles of organic wine expected to be consumed around the world by 2023, more than doubling from the 441 million bottles recorded in 2013.

In 2018, organic wine accounted for 2.6% of global wine consumption, and this is expected to rise to 3.5% by 2023.

In the world’s top five wine consuming countries – the USA, France, Italy, Germany and China – the organic wine market was worth €3.3 billion (NZD$5.975 billion) in 2018.

In 2016, the top three countries producing organic vineyards by hectares were Spain, with more than 100,000 hectares; Italy, with around 85,000 hectares; and France with around 70,000 hectares.

These three countries represent 73% of all organic vineyard in the world. Soon, China will become the first in terms of area, with a significant part of its vineyard in conversion.

CONSUMERS’ OPINIONS… Consumers’ opinions on all things organic have changed dramatically in recent times and it’s also clearly happening in the wine sector.

Latest research from Wine Intelligence put organic wine as the top alternative style that both the trade and consumers are looking to buy.

According to figures published by IWSR last year, almost 10% of all wine sold in the UK will be made organically by 2022. Major retailers, such as Waitrose, have revealed that sales of organic wines are rising, with the supermarket reporting a 57% year-onyear rise last year.

“There is a strong appetite for all things organic, and consumer awareness is increasing exponentially,” says Clive Dougall, chair of Organic Winegrowers New Zealand. “People want to know what they are consuming, and they want to know the product they are choosing has been made with little to no negative impact on the environment.”

Among the high profile, big brand launches include leading New Zealand wine brand Brancott Estate, which launched a new organic and vegan Living Land wine range in a number of overseas markets and have just released an organic range in New Zealand under the Stoneleigh label.

Harnessing the momentum we are currently seeing for the demand of organic wine and making it the new normal for our country’s growers and consumers, OWNZ is celebrating organic wine during the week of September 21-27, where exceptional examples of organic wine will be highlighted through a series of events and tastings.

For more information, head to www. organicwinenz.com/organicwineweek ■ THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 17

off-premise

FACING COMPETITION IN THE

FMCG

With 2020 bringing a shift in the ways consumers are shopping and grocery retailers are operating, Tony Puppyn, Director of Storelink Sales Limited, shares the benefits of sales and merchandising agencies for New Zealand liquor businesses.

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t’s a cliché, but we are living in unpresented times. The COVID-19 epidemic is wreaking economic havoc in Aotearoa and globally, and the events and hospitality industries are bearing the brunt.

During the local lockdown, consumers were funnelled into the grocery channel, driving huge demand. Beer and wine sales grew nearly 40% in some weeks over last year, as events were cancelled and bars and restaurants were closed.

Importantly, consumer behaviour has changed dramatically, driven by new lockdown habits such as channel switching, pantry filling and baking or cooking at home. Current economic conditions have impacted household incomes and a recent IRI consumer survey indicated that consumers are increasingly budget-conscious and are putting focus on balancing the household budget and eating and drinking out less. Total grocery alcohol growth is now +7.9% (Nielsen scan data MAT Jun20) vs +1.7% in the prior year.

18 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

The traditional liquor channel remains a vibrant and an important channel, offering consumers convenience, specialist service and a full range, including spirits and RTDs. The ongoing challenge is to retain its consumer base and footfall in the face of huge grocery competition and the recent channel switch.

Beer and wine suppliers should be considering how they are adapting to the new environment. Building an adaptable and agile business culture will be critical in this economy as there is a considerable shift in the way consumers are shopping and there is significant change in the way grocery retailers are operating.

Liquor suppliers should consider all the alternative ways of servicing the market, including sales and merchandising agencies (SMAs).

Part of the New Zealand Food and Grocery Council, SMAs provide retail sales and merchandising services to the grocery industry.

According to Point of Purchase Advertising International, 76% of all purchasing decisions are made in-store, so investing in having products well merchandised is invaluable. Some SMAs provide specialist grocery sales teams who build brands in a highly competitive and complex trading environment.

Partnering with an SMA to build a long-term brand partnership will have significant benefits for brands who struggle to gain traction with larger distributors who have a generalist channel approach.

Grocery is a specialist channel that operates very differently to hospitality or traditional liquor.

Developing a successful grocery plan requires a deep understanding of the industry, especially operational changes currently underway and changing consumer purchasing behaviour.

Many brands already see success from regular rostered merchandising, display builds or key selling period ‘surge work’.

Some are already realising the benefits of a collaborative and economical SMA specialist sales team whether it’s providing key account expertise or a field sales team or both.

The SMA sales model doesn’t require the significant investment of setting up your own team, but it’s a model that can deliver huge upside. ■

LIQUOR CATEGORY FYI… Latest statistics show that the value of estimated sales/purchasing of alcoholic beverages in New Zealand reaches more than $5 million each year. Supermarkets account for an estimated 20% of national alcohol sales by value and 31% of national alcohol sales by total beverage volume. *NZ Alcohol and Supply and Demand Structures Research Report 2018

Tony Puppyn, Director, Storelink Sales Limited

“GROCERY IS A SPECIALIST CHANNEL THAT OPERATES VERY DIFFERENTLY TO HOSPITALITY OR TRADITIONAL LIQUOR.”

beer feature

r e t r t o u p sto &

K R A D E H T SIDE:

d

eliciously dark, Porter and Stout have always had a somewhat tentative hold on the hearts of craft beer fans.

They have a reputation as tasting burnt or ashy, as well as being calorically dense ‘meals-in-a-glass’.

While there are certainly Porters and Stouts on the market that are deserving of this reputation, it is by no means a fair categorisation of these complex and storied beers.

It’s somewhat ironic that dark beer has fallen out of favour with so many beer fans, as just a few hundred years ago virtually all beer was dark.

The imperfect wood-fired malting processes of centuries past produced a malt that was toasted brown and often infused with smokey flavours. These bygone malting processes also denatured many of the naturally occurring enzymes in barley and wheat, which are needed to convert starch in to sugar. This meant

that to produce a beer of normal alcoholic strength, more of this less efficient ‘brown malt’ was needed than otherwise would be if using modern pale malt. The result was a wide range of much-loved dark beer styles from around the world, of varying strengths, shades of brown and black, and flavours.

One such style was Porter. A dark English ale that got its name because of its popularity among the London river porters and working class of the 18th century.

Said to have been a sweet, brown ale, with a restrained bitterness and roasted character, Porter was widely exported and eventually went on to become the most popular beer style in the world (by volume). The stronger of these Porters was auspiciously called a Stout Porter.

Soon, the advent of the hydrometer (a device used to measure the sugar – and therefore alcoholic potential – of a liquid), led to the realisation that the brown malt used to make Porter was vastly less efficient than the newly popular coke-fired

In his swan song for The Shout NZ, beer writer John Oszajca delves deep into these dark and delicious brews.

John Oszajca

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 19

pale malt. As such, brewers began using a combination of pale malt and various colouring agents to make a beer that tasted the same but cost much less to produce. The favourite of these colouring agents was malt that was roasted to nearly black (much like coffee beans are). It took just a small percentage of this roasted barley to produce a very dark beer, with varying degrees of roasted flavour.

In the race to perfect these roasting techniques, an English inventor by the name of Daniel Wheeler patented his barley roaster, and ‘Black Patent Malt’ was born. Black patent malt is a malted barley that is roasted in a heated drum, similar to a coffee roaster. Black Patent malt became the favourite roasted malt among British brewers, while in other places (namely Ireland) brewers used ‘Roasted Barley’ (a highly roasted unmalted barley). One such brewer was Arthur Guinness who brewed a very popular Stout Porter. In time ‘Porter’ was dropped from the beer’s moniker altogether and Porter and Stout would diverge into two, different but similar, styles of beer.

Then things took a difficult turn for Porter. During World War One, England imposed new taxes on malted barley.

Ireland, who produced Stouts using unmalted Barley, was exempt from these taxes. This meant that Ireland could produce their Stouts at a much lower cost than England could its Porters. This fact, coupled with the advent of refrigeration and the explosion in popularity of pale Lager that ensued, lead to Porter being driven to near extinction. It wasn’t until the 1980s and ’90s when craft brewers in England and America revived the style and it found new popularity among craft beer fans in New Zealand and around the world.

Stout, on the other hand, has always had a toe hold on various markets around the world. Guinness (and lower ABV Stouts) have always enjoyed a loyal following in Ireland, and elsewhere. However, many would be surprised to learn that Stout 20 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

is also wildly popular in Africa, as well as in the Caribbean; flying in the face of the notion that Stout is a cold weather beer. Much like with Porter, the craft beer movement also revitalised the style, giving way to many offshoots, deviations, and revitalisations of the style.

Here in New Zealand there are few breweries who don’t have at least one Porter or Stout in their line-up and Stouts and Porters take out the top three spots on RateBeer.com’s ‘Best Beers Of New Zealand’.

While most New Zealand Porters tend to be either English or American, New Zealand Stouts are likely to cover a more dramatically diverse range; from the milder Irish Dry Stout to the Bourbon barrel-aged monsters that many brewers offer, and everything in between. Here are some of New Zealand’s most popular Porters and Stouts, across some of the more popular incarnations of the style…

ENGLISH PORTER English Porter tends to be lighter in colour and more restrained than its American counterpart. Generally brown rather than black, and lacking the burnt characteristics of many Stouts, the English Porter is known for notes of caramel, chocolate, and light coffee, with low to moderate levels of hop bitterness.

If you’d like to fill your glass with a Kiwi take on this classic English style than look no further than Emerson’s London Porter.

Fittingly, Porter was this Dunedin-based brewery’s first beer. Their London Porter is dark, dry and mellow with some hoppy characteristics poking through. It pours a deep brown colour with ruby highlights.

This delicious brew is full-bodied but not heavy and the dry finish will leave you with flavours of roasted malt, coffee and a slightly sustained bitterness.

AMERICAN PORTER When America finally got hold of the Porter they did what they always do, they added more. They added more alcohol, more roasty character, and substantially more hops. So much so that the American Porter straddles the line between Porter and Stout. But it is the use of the less espresso-like black patent malt and the overall quafability of the American Porter that keeps it fairly in the Porter camp, rather than the bolder, roastier Stout.

New Zealand’s highest rated American Porter on Untappd.com is Kainui Brew Co.’s Rank & File Porter. Head Brewer Gary Henwood’s goal was to put a “modern American twist on an old classic”. Henwood started with an English Porter and then dialled up the malt and hops to create the perfect harmony between the somewhat aggressive flavours of chocolate and black patent malt, tropical hops, and a smooth but full-mouth feel. Not currently available in bottles, you’ll need to make your way up to the tasting room in Keri Keri this summer to get yourself a pint.

IRISH DRY STOUT When it comes to Irish Dry Stouts, New Zealand brewers have had a tendency to leave that to those well-known Irish brands, such as Guinness. But this is perhaps slowly changing, as more and more local brewers seem to be replacing their big ABV show-pony-stouts, with infinitely more sessionable Irish Dry Stouts.

One such brewing company is Good George, which produces The Ace Of Spades Stout. Only available on-tap, it’s a classic Irish dry Stout with a liberal addition of oats to give a smooth and creamy texture, and a full-on aroma of roast coffee, dark chocolate and hints of vanilla.

beer feature Typically clocking in between 8% 12% ABV (with some examples being even stronger), the Imperial Stout is an incredibly intense beer, loaded with notes of dark chocolate, espresso, toast, caramel, dried fruit, leather, tobacco and all manner of hop varieties and bitterness levels. Stouts are beers that can be enjoyed fresh or cellared for many years.

One of New Zealand’s highest rated beers (Stout or otherwise) is 8 Wired’s iStout. iStout is loaded with intense coffee, chocolate, and dark fruit flavours, that is surprisingly well-balanced against an uncharacteristically large addition of hops. iStout is big, bold, loaded with flavour, and delicious whether drunk fresh or aged for years.

IMPERIAL STOUT Imperial Stout is the grandest of all Stouts.

These English beers were originally exported around the world, and were especially popular among the Russian Imperial Court, hence the commonly

known moniker of Russian Imperial Stout. Though recent years have seen the word ‘Russian’ often dropped from the style’s name as more and more local ingredients and interpretations have become commonplace.

There really is a Porter or Stout for every taste. Whether you’re a fan of the bold Imperial Stout, or would perhaps prefer an infinitely more quaffable Brown Porter, or maybe a good old fashioned Guinness is the beer for you. Whatever the case, this author is certain that somewhere, there is a bold, roasty dark beer just waiting to get you through a cold dreary day. ■

LONDON POrTEr IS OUr OLDEST BEEr. AND ALWAYS WILL BE.

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 21

Spirits writer Tash McGill takes a look at the explosion of gin production in New Zealand and what it takes to be a successful distillery.

Tash McGill is a spirits and hospitality writer who regularly hosts tastings and education classes for those wanting to know more about spirits and their uses - from cocktails to culinary food matches. She has been in the spirits and cocktail industry for more than 10 years, writing, tasting and judging competitions.

THE GREAT

gin boom 22 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

spirits feature

t

he New Zealand gin category has exploded over the last four years, with more and more local brands available than ever before. It’s following a global trend, but in a unique way, as more distillers are working towards capturing a New Zealand style of gin, including flavour profiles that feature native botanicals.

It’s hard to keep track of the rapidly growing number of commercial distilleries – while all must have a CCA (Customs Controlled Area) or LMA (Licensed Manufacturing Area) license, the most current Government list (from 2018) includes all CCA licenses from freight operators, duty-free stores and the like, not to mention the list starts with a disclaimer regarding the potential inaccuracy of the data.

“We have 61 members, and 41 of them say they are producing gin - so that’s 67%, or two-thirds,” says Sue James, chairperson of Distilled Spirits Aotearoa.

“We think there are about 21 other (nonmember) distilleries in New Zealand, so a total of 83. If you extrapolate this, it would make 55 distilleries making gin in New Zealand,” she says.

Imagination gin is one of the newer brands to hit shelves. Launched in 2019 by mates Simon Wilson and Chris Charteris, the brand a story of friendship, ingenuity, curiosity and learning.

What started as a home brewing operation to share beer with mates on the weekend, quickly turned to spirits distilling as Simon and Chris quickly realised the global gin wave was headed to New Zealand.

They ran the small still for two years, doing consistent tastings, before moving from Nelson to Kapiti and taking up residence in the Kapiti Coast distillery, which was once home to Tuatara Brewing, “When we made our first batch and we didn’t even fill the still up,” says Simon.

“We made about 100 bottles and it sold.

So we did the same thing and did about 400 bottles, that lasted about two weeks.

And then it’s kind of just exponentially growing since then.”

Trying to capture something uniquely ‘New Zealand’ is important to almost all New Zealand distillers, whether that’s 1919 Distilling’s Pineapple Bits gin (a seasonal release that sold out in days and has become a regular) or Little Biddy Gin from Reefton, that features multiple New Zealand botanicals in each of their unique recipes.

Some are more common than others and some work better than others, with traditional gin botanicals such as cassia

Imagination’s Simon Wilson and Chris Charteris

bark, cinnamon, cardamom, orris root, angelica, star anise and of course, citrus peel and juniper, the base flavour of all gin.

When it comes to the Imagination gin recipe, it was a matter of trial and error.

It’s not unusual for a gin, particularly one made in a London Dry style, to contain 1315 unique botanicals to enhance and sway the juniper. Chris and Simon pared their crucial recipe down to only eight.

Imagination leans into traditional and classic gin ingredients and quite specifically on how they are treated in the distillation process to develop a very pronounced and recognisable gin flavour.

For example, instead of focusing on citrus peels, they mascerate the entire fruit.

“We found it really quickly that if you told someone ‘I made this, what do you think?’, they say ‘oh, I love that you made it, well done!’, says Simon. “So we started doing double-blind tastings. We found out really early on that it could be the most beautiful tasting gin, but if it was just kind of hot on the nose, you lost them.”

When it comes to the unique recipe and defining their own characteristics, Imagination turned to sugarcane for the base spirit. After plenty of experimentation and adjustments on each batch, the team learned from experts how to produce the clean, consistent base spirit for the gin. They’ve settled into a rhythm of fermentation that lasts approximately three days and provides the mouthfeel and clarity they’re after.

“We kind of got stuck in and then found out afterwards we could have made it slightly easier on ourselves by starting with whey ethanol!” says Simon.

Running a full production distillery means Simon and Chris oversee

“TRYING TO CAPTURE SOMETHING UNIQUELY ‘NEW ZEALAND’ IS IMPORTANT TO ALMOST ALL NEW ZEALAND DISTILLERS”

WHAT NEW ZEALAND GIN TASTES LIKE The New Zealand gin market is full of native botanicals…

• Horopito for peppery, citrus bite • Manuka for woody sweetness • Kawakawa for floral and spice notes, • Kahikatea for slightly sweet, resinous notes • Tarata for lemon and citrus • Toatoa for tannic qualities

THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 23

spirits feature every part of the process, from fermenting the base spirit to the still runs, ensuring the quality of the product. It’s a transparency they are proud of. It also comes with increased costs, from square footage required to run a mash tun and/or fermenter set up, increased time and raw goods costs, which is why for so many New Zealand distilleries, focusing on getting great quality stills for distillation becomes the focus.

With an abundance of base ingredient, all you need is a still and the appropriate skills and licensing to become a distiller of gin and vodka.

WHY REGULATE? There is increasing pressure for greater transparency and integrity from distillation to botting to labelling in the New Zealand spirits world, with the DSA currently facilitating a discussion on proposed regulations on the New Zealand whisky category, but the gin category is equally up for debate.

While there are few international or regional regulations on how gin is made (essentially from any clear base spirit and with juniper as the leading flavour), the actual process could be anything from vapor distillation to infusions, with no category specific labelling requirements outside of the licensing requirements.

One such example is the use of whey ethanol, a by-product of the dairy industry and an extremely clean and cost-effective base to work from when distilling and making any generic white spirit. Fermenting and distilling whey reduces waste products and environmental impact from dairy and in fact, many of New Zealand’s most successful and awarded spirits are in fact made from whey ethanol, but it’s how the ethanol is treated and used in the manufacturing process that could benefit from further regulation.

Usually whey is fermented, treated and then distilled at least once before being sold on to be distilled, infused or mixed further on in the manufacturing process. Most commercial suppliers of whey ethanol here in New Zealand are producing very high quality spirit, but the consumer should be aware that not all labels read equal.

We should be proud to be making great quality spirits from whey and then offering that same transparency to the consumer.

ROOM ON THE SHELF For so many start-up distilleries, the cost of investment far outweighs the first and 24 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

second year revenue which is why the most important part of the distillation process can often be finding space on the shelf with a reliable distributor and marketing partner. One model is to go all in and launch big, as Little Biddy Gin have done with plans and buildings for expansion already signed and on paper. Scapegrace Gin is another example of a strong, marketing-led launch.

Many distillery owners take the bootstrapping model which means continuing to work outside of the distillery to varying degrees. It affords some luxuries and stability when they don’t have to rely on sales to survive.

That stability means the push is on to secure distribution and market share quickly, especially as more and more producers come to market. For many distilleries, without a major distribution partner, securing contracts into liquor retailers or on-premise where consumers can enjoy and get familiar with the product requires a big marketing strategy and plenty of personnel hours.

Without a significant marketing and publicity push, consumers may never find your online store. So running in-store tastings, building relationships with venues and securing shelf space is vital to sustaining the business.

Cardrona Distillery in Wanaka have between four and six sales representatives working across New Zealand at all times, selling their single malt vodka and The Source, another award-winning New Zealand gin.

It’s no surprise then, just two years after launching The Drammys, SuperLiquor has initiated The Junipers, New Zealand’s first gin awards. Already with plenty of entries from New Zealand and international brands, The Junipers are focused on delivering awards that are consumer-friendly and help customers to readily identify and purchase brands of high quality. This continues after some encouraging year on year growth in the number of entrants to the Gin category of the New Zealand Spirits awards in 2020, hosted by the DSA. “As the New Zealand spirits sector grows as a whole, there will naturally be increased innovation and competition within specific categories as well,” says Soren Crabb from 1919 Distilling. “This period of high growth is a chance for New Zealand to focus and maintain our reputation of quality, as well as building a strong relationship between consumers and the category.”

Here’s to New Zealand gin – utterly unique, emerging excellence. ■

THE WORLD’S BEST-SELLING GIN BRANDS RIGHT NOW By 2023, the gin category is expected to reach 88.4m cases globally. In 2019, gin exports reached £672 million (NZD$1.35 billion) with the UK being the world’s biggest exporter. Among the top best-selling gin brands in the world right now are…

Gordon’s Gin Still the world’s biggest gin by a fair way, Gordon’s sold 6.7m cases in 2019. Founded by Alexander Gordon who opened the distillery in 1769, Gordon’s has recently added “innovation variants” to its range, including Gordon’s Pink and Gordon’s Pink G&T in a can.

Tanqueray Gin Diageo’s second-biggest gin brand saw its organic net sales grow by 19% in 2019, while volume cases increased by 12.5% to 4.5m. Variants on classic Tanqueray London Dry Gin include Tanqueray Rangpur, made with Rangpur limes and launched in 2006; Tanqueray Malacca, a spiced gin; and Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla made with oranges from Seville and launched in 2018.

Hendrick’s Gin Owned by William Grant and Sons, this cucumber and roseinfused gin brand reported a solid growth of 7.7% in 2019.

Made in small batches in Scotland, Hendrick’s uses 11 botanicals sourced from the four corners of the world. Innovations on the classic include the 2019 launch - Midsummer Solstice Gin - which includes a secretive selection of floral essences that enhances the existing botanical bouquet.

Beefeater Gin Pernod Ricard’s biggest gin brand and one of its best-selling brands, Beefeater reported a 12% increase in organic sales growth in 2019. In 2018, the brand launched Beefeater Pink, a gin expression infused with strawberries and that was followed by the launch of Beefeater Blood Orange in 2019. *Sourced from IWSR, WSTA and The Drinks Business

- Walt Disney

cocktail recipe

Singapore SLING

rightly coloured and reminiscent of the tiki drinks of the Caribbean with its pineapple garnish, the Singapore Sling was – according to history – created in 1915 at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon.

In early 1900s Singapore, Raffles was the gathering place for rich and well-to-do expats, and the Long Bar was the spot they chilled out. There was also a Billiards Room but rumour has it they kept a real live tiger chained up in there so…

There was also a really ‘fun’ (read: grotesquely outdated) etiquette rule in place that dictated that ladies couldn’t be seen to be drinking alcohol in public. Hence a pretty pink, gin-spiked pineapple juice concoction became very popular, very quickly.

It’s also a rather humid place, so the refreshing nature of the Singapore Sling certainly increased its popularity.

b

BUT WHERE DOES IT COME FROM? Originally based on, and marketed as, a Gin Sling – an American cocktail that was basically gin and water that was sweetened – the recipe that Raffles now touts as the ‘original’ is reportedly based on the memories of former bartenders and a few scribbled notes that were uncovered in the bar on the back of a napkin. This recipe was documented in Savoy Cocktail Book as early as 1930, cementing its classic status.

RECIPE DISCREPANCIES There are a few issues with the current official recipe, and the historical record – isn’t there always? According to Business Week in 1932 the recipe was as follows: “Mix 2 oz. Boodles British Gin, 1 oz. cherry brandy, 1 oz. lemon juice; pour over ice in a tumbler and add a splash of soda”. That version was backed up

by Hotel & Restaurant Employees and Bartenders International Union in 1941, with Boodles apparently becoming the ‘official’ gin in the drink as early as 1938.

Then, to throw in another spanner, cocktail historian David Wondrich believes that the while the ‘official’ Singapore Sling may have originated in the Long Bar, INGREDIENTS the drink was around much • 45ml Gin earlier. In fact, as early as • 15ml Cherry Heering the late 1800s the concept • 10ml Cointreau of the Sling – or at least • 10ml Benedictine the English version of the • 120ml Pineapple juice American drink that had • 15ml Lime juice fruit juice added to make • 10ml Grenadine it more of a punch – was • 1 dash of Angostura bitters already universal in bars METHOD across the colonial outpost 1. Fill a shaker with ice and add all the ingredients. of Singapore. ■

SINGAPORE SLING

Originally published in Bars and Clubs

26 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

2. Shake thoroughly to ensure a nice creamy froth.

3. Pour into the glass and garnish with a pineapple wedge and maraschino cherry.

brand marketing

CELEBRITY STAR POWER:

When does it work?

With celebrity-brand partnerships playing a significant role in 21st century marketing, Charlotte Cowan explores which liquor brands and categories are benefitting the most from celebrity backing.

w

hile celebrities jumping on the liquor bandwagon isn’t a new thing, the proliferation of famous faces in the world of drinks has grown exponentially over the last few years.

Since Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s launch of Miraval Rosé in 2011, there is now a huge amount of wine produced by and/or endorsed by famous faces, including Sarah Jessica Parker, Kylie Minogue, Post Malone, John Legend, Jon Bon Jovi and Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola.

Cameron Diaz is the latest Hollywood A-lister to launch a wine company.

Together with businesswoman Katherine Power, Diaz recently unveiled Avaline – an organic wine brand which includes French Rosé and a Spanish white, both described as “clean”, with no added sugar.

In New Zealand, wine company Invivo & Co began a collaboration with UK chat king Graham Norton in 2011 and in 2014 they produced their first wine together under the Graham Norton’s Own brand a SauviGNon Blanc.

Invivo and Graham Norton have since produced a South Australian Shiraz, New Zealand Rosé, Italian Prosecco and Graham Norton Pink and Irish Dry GiNs

Invivo & Co joined forces with Sex and the City star Sarah Jessica Parker in 2019

and have recently announced they are set to produce their 10 millionth bottle of wine this year.

More recently, in 2019, Invivo & Co joined forces with Sex and the City star Sarah Jessica Parker to create a new Sauvignon Blanc under the Invivo X brand, and this year they added a Rosé to the mix. The Sauvignon Blanc has gone on to win a number of local international awards for both the wine and the label which features an X drawn in acrylic paint

by Parker. “[Celebrity involvement in the brand] has opened doors with buyers and customers all around the world, without our partners it would have been nearly impossible,” says Tim Lightbourne, co-founder of Invivo & Co. According to research from global liquor analysis company, The IWSR, celebrity collaborations and endorsements with genuine celebrity interest or investment can help propel liquor categories forward.

In the US, tequila is a prime example.

Along with the premiumisation of tequila

“A GREAT FIT CAN BOOST A BRAND IMMENSELY, WHILE A BAD ONE CAN DAMAGE IT FOREVER.” CARO JENSEN, SIP NZ. THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 27

Invivo and Graham Norton are set to produce their 10 millionth bottle of wine this year

(by brands such as Patrón), celebrity influence from A-listers including George Clooney, Chris Noth, Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson and Sean ‘P Diddy’ Combs has meant the category has seen rapid growth in the last few years.

Clooney co-founded Casamigos Tequila in 2013 and IWSR data shows that tequila volumes in the US grew 42.2% between 2014 and 2019. Volumes are forecast to grow by another five million nine-litre cases by 2024.

Further research recorded by the IWSR shows that from 2018 to 2019, there was a 31.7% volume surge of tequilas endorsed by influencers.

And leveraging the power of celebrities as ‘influencers’ in ad campaigns has a strong ability to capture consumer attention when other advertising may fail.

According to data from US brand researchers Kantar (formerly Millward Brown), advertising featuring celebrities perform better on key measures analysed than those without a celebrity.

For example, leading up to 2014, US bourbon band Jim Beam had suffered from years of declining sales. It had picked up the reputation of a cheap ‘party fuel’ and, as a result, had grown increasingly irrelevant to millennials.

In February 2014, advertising agency StrawberryFrog announced actress Mila Kunis as the new face of Jim Beam. She was featured in a number of ads and videos for the brand and was the first woman ever to be featured in a marketing and advertising campaign for an iconic American bourbon.

“We partnered with a genuine bourbon drinker worthy of every female and male’s attention,” said StrawberryFrog.

“Not just another gorgeous talking head, the choice of Mila also genuinely represented our movement against 28 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

“THE DEGREE TO WHICH THE CHARACTER MATCHES THE NEEDS OF THE BRAND WILL PROVE TO BE MUCH MORE COMPELLING THAN FAME ALONE.” DEDE FITCH, GLOBAL ANALYST AT KANTAR. the patriarchy associated with drinking “Consumers can tell if someone is being bourbon for equality and modern brand.” paid to promote a product versus really According to research from Kantar, excited about sharing something they’ve following the campaign, which has been had a hand in producing or genuinely love labelled “the greatest result in the Jim drinking,” says Brandy Rand, IWSR Chief Beam brand”, bringing Kunis on board Operating Officer for the Americas. “was an efficient use of the brand’s “In some cases, like Matthew marketing budget, and delivered a greater McConaughey and Wild Turkey or return on investment in both the short term Ryan Reynolds and Aviation, scripted and the long term.” commercials or video shorts actually However, not all celebrities are made reflect the actors’ talent for producing equal. The choice of celebrity in ad entertainment – if they can capture campaigns – and their reputation now and consumer attention through well-curated in the future – can significantly affect sales. content (especially humour) it’s also a win.”

Caro Jensen from Sip NZ told However, the downside to celebrity The Shout NZ: “A great fit can boost a endorsement is the constant threat of brand immensely, while a bad one can celebrity scandal. Caro Jensen says other damage it forever.”

One positive case is Ryan Reynolds who, in 2018, became the owner of American craft brand Aviation Gin. Gin volumes in the US declined 6.5% between 2009 and 2014, but this decline softened to 0.3% from 2014 to 2019.

According to IWSR, Reynolds uses his trademark humour to connect his fans to Aviation through videos and television appearances and data shows that his involvement in the brand has had a significant impact on the brand’s consumption in the US. The brand has been so successful that last month, Diageo Mila Kunis was the first woman purchased it for more to be featured in a campaign for than US$600 million. an iconic American bourbon.

brand marketing

THREE KEY QUESTIONS FOR EFFECTIVE USE OF CELEBRITIES: Who is the celebrity?

It’s important to establish how well known they are among your target audience. Overall, the effect of the fame of the celebrities differs by country: for instance, in the US and UK, well known celebrities can help slightly with branding. However, in China (Shanghai) there is little difference in key measures whether the celebrity is well recognised or not.

Is the celebrity well liked?

While it isn’t essential for a celebrity to be liked, this can have a significant impact on the emotional response to an ad. The effectiveness of likeable celebrities is more similar across countries: enjoyment is higher when the celebrity is liked, in all countries What does the celebrity represent?

It’s important to understand how well the celebrity fits with the brand, or with where you want to take the brand. When the celebrity is perceived to be appropriate, communication can be enhanced. The ‘right fit’ celebrity can enhance key measures. *Excerpt from Kantar’s [Millward Brown] ‘Celebrity-based ad campaigns: What are the pros and cons?’

George Clooney co-founded Casamigos Tequila in 2013

brand deals, previous projects and certain lifestyles of that person in the past might be detrimental to brands now.

“Although the celebrity collaboration might be for a limited time only, it’s important to do your research when choosing a celebrity to help endorse your brand,” she says.

According to research done by Stefan Hock, a marketing professor at the University of Connecticut, from 1988 to 2016 there were 128 incidents involving 230 publicly traded US companies where celebrity endorsers generated negative publicity. Fifty-nine percent of the endorsers were athletes, 24% TV or radio personalities, and 17% musicians; 70% were male and half the incidents occurred from 2010 to 2016, “suggesting that the pace of celebrity scandals has accelerated”.

The boom of social media has had significant influence in that respect as it is a powerful platform for direct celebrity-toconsumer influence.

Invivo & Co’s Tim Lightbourne says their wine company has strong brand awareness through their partners’ following on social media.

“In the case of Graham Norton and Sarah Jessica Parker, they have over 7.5 million combined fans on social media who are excited when we launch a new wine!” he says.

But conversely, whatever a celebrity has said or done in their past is easily found and brought to the public eye.

Bob Williams, CEO of Burns Entertainment, told Harvard Business Review that looking at a celebrity’s social media history is one way companies perform due diligence.

“It’s impossible to completely avoid the risk of scandal; few celebrities are squeaky clean,” he said.

“The best approach is to invest in the selection process and then draw up a contract with a very strong morals clause and the ability to exit quickly if necessary.”

Brands can also use the power of social media to help choose the right celebrity who will fit their marketing campaign.

“Involve your followers,” says Caro Jensen. “Ask them who you should team-up with, check if any celebrities are following you and who your followers are engaging with.”

But ultimately, the prevailing message when it comes to star power behind a liquor brand is that the appeal of the celebrity to the consumer will always come first.

“It’s less about consumers believing the connection between the brand and celebrity and more about the celebrity’s appeal to consumers,” says IWSR’s Brandy Rand.

So how can you find the right celebrity?

Dede Fitch, Global Analyst at Kantar, says finding the right celebrity ally is “as much art as science”.

“The biggest, most familiar names may lend cachet, but they carry a hefty price tag,” she said in a report. “The character of the trendiest new star is often untested and may prove to be a liability.

“A brand owner looking for a safe but successful association might do well to look further back in the celebrity pack for the person who can best represent the brand’s values and aspirations.

“The degree to which the character matches the needs of the brand will prove to be much more compelling than fame alone.”

Invivo & Co’s Tim Lightbourne says it’s important to choose a celebrity partner that is 100% in on the project and fully involved.

“Their level of involvement means that they can offer their input on the brand’s direction,” he says.

“Take your time choosing your partner, make sure they’re in it for the long term and they’re not already aligned with too many other brands.

“And make their participation with your brand authentic and not gimmicky.”

With star power shown to boost sales internationally, positive celebrity involvement in the liquor industry seems likely to remain a significant part of future liquor marketing and advertising. ■ THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020 29

last round

HOW TO CONNECT DURING

COVID-19 3

Caro Jensen, co-founder of Sip NZ and drinkfo.com, shares tips on how New Zealand liquor producers can stay in touch with export markets during the current global pandemic. uring this time of year, winemakers and sales teams are usually on the road to sell the fruit of a year’s hard labour – dining and wining in the warm Northern Hemisphere with the ‘who’s who’ of the international wine trade.

Come summer, these wineries – plus the country’s large number of distilleries and breweries – will start to miss out on trade and media visits and the opportunity to show off their products and our beautiful backyard.

These memorable Kiwi experiences are an important part of creating close business relationships, especially when markets are as far away as ours.

So, what’s plan B? How can liquor business in New Zealand connect with global distributors, buyers and media during these Caro Jensen challenging times?

d

30 THE SHOUT NZ – SEPTEMBER 2020

1

SEND AN EXPERIENCE, NOT JUST SAMPLES Send New Zealand-made products alongside your wine, beer or spirit samples that bring the Kiwi experience to life. A personalised piece of iconic Kiwi clothing, nonperishable food or symbolic souvenir might just get the attention ahead of other sample packages from around the world. Team-up with other iconic Kiwi brands to create creative collaborations.

2

SLIDE INTO THEIR DMS Inboxes are most likely still exploding with Zoom meeting and live tasting invites. Connect to your market via social media, such as Instagram and Facebook, and professional networks such as Linked In, and engage with them. Be ‘social’, have a chat, share an update on you and your business and check in to see if they, their family and friends are ok.

CREATE EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE EVENTS Team up with other wineries, distilleries or breweries in your region and create intimate in-market events (following COVID-19 regulations, of course) showcasing your products as a collective. While big trade shows are off the agenda, trade and media will still be keen to escape their bubble for a catchup with industry professionals.

4

CAPTURE OUR BACKYARD If they can’t come to you, transport them to New Zealand via engaging and personalised digital experiences such as augmented reality, vlogs, timelapses or projections.

5

DO THEIR JOB Provide ready-to-publish unique pitches and high-quality images and video material to foster media relations. Journalists who have visited New Zealand before and already have a relationship with you would greatly appreciate updated regional and vintagespecific content to support their reviews.

6

BE GENEROUS! Check previous accounts and utilise your entertainment and market visit budget for innovative initiatives. Shout key partners a weekend away, get a chef to turn up at their office, record a team haka, finally produce and send those small format bottles.

Innovation and creativity thrive in a time of crisis – your craziest idea to date, might just be the ticket to success! ■

Worldof Wine CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019

IT'S A MATCH

CELLAR SECRETS

Food and wine pairs to love

Backstage at the vineyard PLUS finding your favourite drop

C O M I N G S O O N !

WINE LABEL LANGUAGE EXPLAINED

Reds on the Rise

THE SUMMER ISSUE OF

Liquid Gold

GROWING GRAPES ON FORMER GOLD-MINING CLAIMS HAS HELPED PRODUCE SOME 24-KARAT WINES FROM DOMAIN ROAD VINEYARD

18 WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2019/20

Dry River Craighall Tempranillo 2016, RRP $65

Coopers Creek The Little Rascal SV Gisborne Arneis, RRP $21.99

NEW ZEALAND’S LEADING CONSUMER

Leftfield Gisborne Albariño, RRP $17.99 Waimea Estates Grüner Veltliner 2018, RRP $29.99

WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2019/20 27

WINE MAGAZINE IN COLLABORATION WITH MASTER SOMMELIER

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Wine

CAMERON DOUGLAS

Tour

SIP YOUR WAY FROM ONE END OF THE COUNTRY TO THE OTHER VIA THIS NATIONWIDE GUIDE TO OUR FINEST DROPS

TRUE NORTH Northland remains a small yet important region with a handful of wineries continuing the story of viticulture and wine. Marsden Estate has shown its value to the New Zealand wine industry overall with value and consistently well-made wine.

Ake Ake, Paroa Bay and The Landing produce wines with warmth and generosity, representing the region’s dedication to the production of fine wine from Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Syrah.

The Auckland wine region reaches as far north as Matakana, south to Clevedon and across the water to Waiheke Island – it’s a key centre for fine wine production. The region supports many varieties – from Bordeaux-style red blends and Syrah on Waiheke Island to Pinot Gris from Matakana.

Brick Bay, Cable Bay, Tantalus Estate, Mudbrick, Stonyridge, Man O’ War and Puriri Hills are among many quality producers. World class Chardonnay from Kumeu River and the third most recognised winery brand on the planet Villa Maria (based at Ihumãtao in Mangere) are two cellar door and wine tasting experiences that should not be missed.

The Waikato and Bay of Plenty form a single wine region. Once well known for its aromatic wine production, it is now home to only two estates.

Gisborne’s own wine story began in the 1800s with early settlers producing wine

for their own consumption, and by the 1920s it was well into significant volumes for commercial sales. Gisborne is home to the Millton family – James and Annie are pioneers in biodynamic viticulture practices and unquestionably set a benchmark in this important method. A few of my favourite wines from producers in the region include Tohu, Toi Toi, Odyssey Wines, Huntaway, Spade Oak, Coopers Creek, Matawhero and Millton Vineyards.

Hawke’s Bay is a beautiful place to visit – with warm summers, mild winters and a stunning landscape. It contains a range of different soil types, from free-draining river stone soils to red metals and limestone,

which ensures Hawke’s Bay is able to ripen a wide variety of grape types and make some excellent wines.

Many notable producers are situated here – examples include Elephant Hill, Clearview Estate, Bilancia, Te Mata Estate and Pask with their Syrah stories; great Cabernet-led blends and Chardonnay from Villa Maria, Sacred Hill, Esk Valley, Craggy Range and Te Awa Estates. Be sure to look out for some great wines from Radburnd Cellars too.

North east of Wellington is the Wairarapa, where the important sub-regions of Gladstone, Masterton and Martinborough are located. Every producer in the region seems to have a fascinating story underpinning their Ostler, Waitaki Valley, North Otago

22 WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2019/20

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

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Summerhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Marlborough

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Classically styled Marlborough SB with flavours of passion fruit and white peach, lemongrass, wet stone and white flavours. Juicy and flashy texture with a core of fruit and contrasting acidity.

Balanced and well made, ready to enjoy from today and through Summer 2021.

POINTS: 90 RRP $19 summerhouse.co.nz

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Rapaura Springs Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Marlborough

Enticing and sophisticated bouquet of SB with aromas and flavours of passionfruit and apple, a touch of gunflint and lemon, wet stone, lemongrass and hay. Juicy, fleshy and quite delicious on the palate. Flavours reflect the nose with a core of passionfruit, sweet Cape gooseberry and lemongrass, loads of crisp refreshing acidity and a long finish. Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 94 RRP $19 rapaurasprings.co.nz

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Smith & Sheth CRU Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Wairau, Marlborough

Intense, fruity, quite pungent and varietal with aromas and flavours of fresh pineapple and basil, a sting of grapefruit, lemon and white peach. A touch of fruit spice, lees and hay. Loads of texture from plenty of acidity with a flinty salty layer. Well made, vibrant and ready, in fact delicious!

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 94 RRP $28 smithandsheth.com

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5

Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Marlborough

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Pyramid Valley Sauvignon+ 2019 North Canterbury

Exacting aromas and flavours include fresh citrus and a leesy spice, white peach and grapefruit, a gentle stony and chalky earthy layer and lifted floral moments.

Crisp, refreshing and dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, especially grapefruit peel, sweet lemon and apple.

Pristine acidity and lengthy finish. Well made, balanced and ready to enjoy from today and through 2023.

POINTS: 94 RRP $28 pyramidvalley.co.nz

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Unmistakable aromas of tropical fruits and citrus, sweet grass and wet stone. On the palate – flavours of pineapple and passionfruit, red apple and peach. Additional flavours of lemongrass and galangal, wet stone and minerals. Crisp and dry on the finish. Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 92 RRP $20 wairauriverwines.com

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Greystone Sauvignon Blanc 2018 North Canterbury

Varietal SB greets the nose with a sweet herb and angelica leaf tease. Golden kiwifruit, apple and grapefruit follow close behind.

No mistaking the sweet sweaty lift of barrel ferment and lees as well as natural ferment flintiness.

A youthful reductive note swirls away easily. Very citrusy and crisp on the palate with lees and barrel flavours to follow. Grapefruit, apple and peach to finish. Youthful and delicious, lengthy and exciting.

Drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 94 RRP $29 greystonewines.co.nz

THE SUMMER ISSUE WILL FEATURE: Sparkling Wines New Zealand’s Heroes: Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir Central Otago Aromatic Whites

A Wine Lover’s Guide to Christmas How to Build a Wine Cellar Top 20 Winemakers in New Zealand And much more!

WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2019/20 43

Worldof Wine VOLUME 3 SUMMER 2019/20

CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

CAM’S BEST OF

2019

RAISING A TOAST TO

Summer

P R O M OT E Y O U R W I N E S TO A N A U D I E N C E O F M O R E T H A N 2 0 , 0 0 0 W I N E LO V E R S ADVERTISING DEADLINE: 29 SEPTEMBER

108 WINES

Tasted & rated

SIMON GAULT’S BBQ FAVOURITES

+ the perfect wine matches

SWAP YOUR DROP

Delicious alternatives to tried-and-trues

CONTACT BRIGITTE KOLVER: bkolver@intermedianz.co.nz or +64 (0)27 294 5113

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Same. But Different.

For four decades Giesen has crafted great Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Giesen O%* has inherited all its best qualities.

Made from our premium, full strength Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Giesen O%* is aromatically expressive and generously flavoured ‌ only with the alcohol gently removed.

Enjoy the world’s first alcohol-removed Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. *Contains not more than 0.5% Alcohol/Volume