The Baltic Guide ENG January 2017 by The Baltic Guide

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA

Local flavours – Estonia and the White Guide Road Trip – Narva Winter escape – Relaxing at Pärnu's top spas

Bart C. Pushaw lifts the lid on his new Kumu exhibition Nightlife: PATT – Tallinn’s newest gay club

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ENGLISH EDITION

27.12.2016 - 12.02.2017

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editorial

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Let it snow!

hile we haven’t been blessed with much snow over the past years, as I write this I have my fingers crossed hoping for a white January so we can all get outside and enjoy Estonia in winter. The days are still quite short, so now or no snow, one needs a winter survival plan to beat the short days while we wait for warmer and brighter weather. The holidays were spent eating and drinking indoors, so January should be spent staying active outdoors. Estonians love cross-country skiing. In fact, they train all year long, using roller skates in summer. You don’t have to travel far to get active, as there are many ski trails in a

around the city, and even a skating rink in the middle of the Old Town. January is a quiet month in Tallinn, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. If you arrive near the beginning of the month, you can still catch the Christmas market in Town Hall Square. Feel like staying indoors? Relax at a spa, or enjoy some of the fine cuisine Tallinn has to offer. Enjoy one of the great exhibitions at KUMU, Estonia’s national art museum or visit the newly renovated NUKU Puppet Theatre. Whatever you choose, we’ve got plenty of suggestions. Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

Contents 3 editorial

January Highlights

restaurants 4-5 Local Flavours – Estonia and the White Guide Restaurant News 6 Going Green at V Vegan Restoran Mediterranean Flavours at Alter Ego

01 SIMPLE SESSION Every year Simple Session brings together the world’s best skaters and BMX riders to compete in Tallinn. Skateboarders compete here at the World Cup level. About 30 countries will be represented at Simple Session this year from 4-5 February at Saku Suurhall.

02 DOCPOINT IN TALLINN

03 OTEPÄÄ SAUNA MARATHON If you haven’t heard, Estonians are sauna-obsessed! The sauna marathon works likes this: each team has to visit as many saunas in the area as possible, with extra points for dipping the water for a chilly winter swim. The annual Sauna marathon takes place 4 February.

04 NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE TV TOWER The best nature photos of 2016 can be admired at Tallinn’s TV Tower. The exhibition focuses on landscape photos over different plants and animals. The best 50 photos are on display until April.

05 CONTEMPORARY MUSIC DAYS IN PÄRNU Contemporary music fans can make their way to Pärnu from 7-15 January. The Contemporary Music Days will present the most important historical music trends of the 1900s. The programme includes concerts, exhibitions, and more!

this month 8-9 beauty 11 day trip: Narva 12-13 Interview with Bart C. Pushaw: The American Revealing the Estonian Art Explosion January Events 14-15 Russian Natural Beauty Products & Organic Scents for the Home from Les Petites 16-17 sightseeing top 10 18 museum: Estonian Agricultural Museum in Tartu 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 nightlife

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Bart C. Pushaw Photo: Andrei Chertkov

JANUARY 2017

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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The Helsinki DocPoint documentary film festival will organise DocPoint in Tallinn from 25-29 January. The programme includes contemporary and socially critical documentary films. Films will be screened in different cinemas across Tallinn.

restau January Restaurant News

The new Italian restaurant Da Rocco opened on Lai with a small menu serving classic Italian dishes. Daily lunch specials are also on offer during the week, which include a twocourse meal (appetiser and main) for €12. Right next door you will find Tallinn’s newest wine and shop bar, Wine Not? What’s different at Wine Not? is that you can taste any bottle before buying it. The shop deals with mainly Old World wines. You can also enjoy a small selection of tapas in the bar. The long-established Golden Dragon Chinese restaurant has relocated to Pühavaimu. The menu is still the same and diners can enjoy a €5 lunch special on weekdays, including a soup and a main. A children’s menu is available too. Tallinn’s favourite German restaurant Schnitzel Haus opened a new location in Golden Dragon’s old location on Pikk. Enjoy the same crispyyet-juicy schnitzels and good beer selection in their new cosy underground cellar location. Kalamaja Pagarikoda also opened a new location in Tallinn’s new Arsenal keskus shopping centre in the northern part of the city. Enjoy the smells of freshly baked bread and other delights.

Peter Hansson, CEO of White Guides AB

Casual Italian elegance at Da Rocco.

And last but not least, if you’re in search of a great burger without having to travel too far, the burger at Kvartal, a new restaurant in the Old Town offers just this. Enjoy a simple yet well thought out menu and a great selection of freshly baked cakes, like their red velvet cake. n

Location Wine Not? Lai 6, Tallinn Old Town g1 Da Rocco Lai 6, Tallinn Old Town g1 Kvartal Kuninga 3, Tallinn Old Town h2 Golden Dragon Pühavaimu 7, Tallinn Old Town g2 Schnitzel Haus Pikk 37, Tallinn Old Town g2 Kalamaja Pagarikoda Erika 14, Tallinn

Local Flavours Flavours of Estonia celebrates its 10th Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Lauri Laan

At the beginning of December, the

Try before you buy at Wine Not?

2017 edition of the web-based Flavours of Estonia was launched in Tallinn’s Kultuurikatel. This year’s guide includes 102 restaurants over Estonia, and as Aivar Hanson, director of the guide proudly stated in his presentation: “Estonia’s best restaurant scores higher than Finland’s best”. The comparison comes from this year’s rankings of the best restaurants of Scandinavia and the Baltics in the 2017 edition of the White Guide Nordic. The White Guide Nordic is like the Michelin Guide of the north and Estonia’s restaurants have managed to do quite well. The restaurant Hanson speaks of is NOA Chef ’s Side, which scored higher than Ask in Finland. Of the 60 restaurants listed from the Baltic States, half are in Estonia, though the best in the Baltics is Vincents in Latvia. It goes without saying that you can eat quite well in Estonia.

Ten years ago, The World’s 50 Best

Restaurants list was published for the first time. Finland wasn’t too far behind in compiling a similar list and wanted to include Estonia. Hanson was introduced to the idea and so the 50 Best Restaurants of Estonia began. “The restaurant critics' circle is pretty tight”, continues Hanson. The start of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants brought the top players from different regions together. While there wasn’t much point in making individual guides for each country – Estonia is too small, for example, like other Scandinavian countries. One good restaurant guide that covers the entire area was the solution, and so began the cooperation between Estonia and the White Guide”. “Ten years ago, no one was really talking about local ingredients. The more exotic the flavour, the better. Foie gras, exotic seafood, and other similar ingredients made the mouths of chefs water. Today,

urants

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Aivar Hanson, director of Flavours of Estonia

– Estonia and the White Guide anniversary this year. Included for the second year in a row in the White Guide, we’ve come a long way. it’s local farm produce that gets them excited”, explains Hanson, discussing the most notable changes over the last decade. Estonia has been included in the

for example, like other Scandinavian countries.

White Guide for two years now. In this short a time it’s already possible to see changes, including two worrisome areas for our restaurants, according to Hanson. “#1 Rankings can fluctuate significantly. Two people can have entirely different experiences at the same restaurant, even at the same table at the same time. #2 Individual style is lacking. Among Estonian restaurants, there is an unnecessary overlap of the same kinds of dishes using the same ingredients with the same wine pairings”. As with every year, there are noticeable trends that emerge during the testing period. This year, uber-local is slowly being replaced by local and exotic flavour fusion. The pairing of Nor-

dic and Asian cuisines is very trendy at the moment. This year’s White Guide has expanded to include Latvia and Lithuania. According to Hanson, the restaurant scenes in each country are in different stages of development. Estonia is still in the lead and this can be seen on the Baltic Top 30 list. The Latvians and Lithuanians want to catch up and eventually surpass Estonia, especially in Lithuania, where the scene is worth keeping an eye on. When asked what his favourite restaurants in Estonia were, Hanson answered: “I look at restaurants in a slightly different way. I don’t have any favourites. I certainly have some favourite dishes (especially those that show the development of our gastronomy), as well as tasting menus. n Flavours of Estonia 2017 can be read online at www.flavoursofestonia.com Read more about the White Guide Nordic at www.whiteguidenordic.com

restaurants

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Confidently Mediterranean The Rotermann Quarter is a quickly developing area where you will find the restaurant Alter Ego in its main square.

Enjoy lunch specials at Alter Ego.

mediterranean TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Save room for dessert.

The menu offers everything from

small bites to larger meals, quick lunches and long dinners. Their tapas selection includes chicken liver pate, tuna croquettes, as well as fried potatoes and freshly baked bread. Why not enjoy a glass of Spanish wine to wash it all down? Alter Ego offers one of the city’s biggest selections of Spanish wine. We taste both the lunch and à la carte menus. We chose the pureed sweet potato soup from the lunch menu. The filling, warm orange soup was the perfect accompaniment to a cold winter’s day. The soup was served with freshly baked bread and a dish with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Going Green V Vegan Restoran shows that not all vegetables need to be boring.

vegan TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

One of the most difficult restaurants

to get a table at in Tallinn is V. It goes without saying booking are recommended. It wasn’t so long ago that being a vegan in Estonia meant you couldn’t find much more to eat than lettuce and potatoes at many restaurants and cafés. V goes to show that you

can put together a diverse menu without a trace of dairy or meat. We squeeze around a cosy table at V and start to peruse the menu. The friendly server immediately comes to greet us at the table and tell us about the food. A couple of daily specials are posted on the wall too. We opt to share the appetiser platter to get a taste of a few things. The selection included vegan cheese, grilled tofu, mushroom paté, and cashew cream. The tastes were all different, yet com-

plementary. Our only complaint – we wished there had been more! For mains we tried the beetroot seitan with potato mash and wild mushroom sauce. If you’re looking for something hearty and filling, this will do the trick. Our favourite dish was the spicy tofu on quinoa and sweet potato with tomato and coconut sauce. The heat from the tofu was beautifully paired with the sweet tomato and coconut sauce. V is also a great place to come for a cup of coffee and a fabulous dessert. There is always a selection of cakes and cupcakes to choose from the display. The vegan cakes on offer are always very moist and certainly worth a taste. ■

Location V Vegan Restoran Rataskaevu 12, Tallinn Old Town h1 --------------------Appetisers: €3.90–€8.5 0 Mains: €6.50–€10.30 Dessert: €2.00–€4.60 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

We chose the Spanish tuna from the à la carte menu. The dish had a delicate aroma of caramelised onions and was served with artichoke puree and tarragon sauce. For dessert we returned to thee lunch menu. The chocolate orangee cake was decorated with the Eston-ian national cornflower. The tastee was reminiscent of Christmas. Thee restaurant offers a lunch menu on n

V goes to show that you can put together a diverse menu without a trace of dairy or meat.

weekdays – for 15 you can get a three-course meal. ■

Location Alter Ego, Roseni 8, Tallinn a2. --------------------Appetisers: €8–€12.50 Mains: €17–€26.00 Dessert: €5.00 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

beauty

8 The polish is cured under an LED lamp.

The nail polish revolution TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Want the long lasting effects of a gel polish manicure, but can’t be bothered to go through the hassle of removing it? Striplac is the answer. The Baltic Guide visited Revali Ilusalong in Tallinn’s Old Town to try it for ourselves. The manicure starts off like any other gel manicure, the nails are cleaned and trimmed, cuticles removed and then base coat, colour and top coat applied. What makes Striplac unique is that it last longer than regular nail polish, doesn’t chip (even after a few days and heavy wear, like from dishwashing), and best of all, doesn’t need any solvents to remove it. It lasts up to 10 days and retains its glossy finish right up until the very last day. Just like gel polish, it cures under LED lamps, so there is no drying time. When you’re ready to remove it, simply start pulling it up from the side. The polish quickly starts

The finished result!

to come off and you can peel it off gently. Underneath, there is no damage to your nails. If you’ve ever had any experience with gel nail polish, you either have to go back to the salon to have it removed or remove it at home. Either way, it takes much longer and if not done properly can damage the nail underneath. Striplac resolves all of that. A manicure with Striplac nail polish at Revali Ilusalong costs 22 and last 75 minutes with a nice hand massage at the end. Revali Ilusalong is a full service beauty salon tucked away on Rüütli Street in the Old Town. Service is professional friendly, offering everything from mani pedis to haircutting and styling to massage. ■

Location Revali Ilusalong Rüütli 28/30, Tallinn Old Town j1

What makes Striplac unique is that it last longer than regular nail polish, doesn’t chip, and best of all, doesn’t need any solvents to remove it.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7

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beauty

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Changing spa tides Pärnu’s most popular spas Tervise Paradiis and Tervis Medical Spa get a facelift.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS TERVISE PARADIIS

The biggest changes at Tervise Paradiis were made about a year

ago when the new saunas and huge gym opened. “Both additions were received very positively”, Jaan Ratnik, a member of the board of the company tells us. Many new changes have been made throughout the last year. “Before, the beauty salon was located away from the spa area, which meant that clients often had to go in search of it. But now the beauty salon is in a much better location, right near the entrance to the spa”. “From the restaurant side, the Romantic Bar on the eighth floor has been completely renovated”, he continues. Neptun Grill, a favourite among families with children was fully renovated last autumn and now it has a truly Russian atmosphere. The menu has been updated, but don’t worry, the legendary stuffed pancakes are still on the menu. The waterpark is one of Estonia’s largest and most popular, and as such, it has been renovated in stages. Visitors can enjoy the adrenaline of the torrential mountain rivers or tube slides.

Tervise Paradiis has one of the biggest waterparks in Estonia.

Tervise Paradiis All of the rooms have a sea view.

■ Four-star hotel with 244

rooms. Every room has a sea view. ■ There are four different slides in the waterpark, of which the tallest is 85 m. In addition, there is also an outdoor pool, mountain river, hot tubs, climbing walls, a place to jump and a children’s pool. There are many different saunas in the sauna area. ■ The are different restaurants in the spa hotel. In the basement, there is a six lane bowling alley. Tervise Paradiis, Side 14, Pärnu.

Spa services are still offered, even during the quieter periods of the year, with the additional services also offered at Tervis Medical Spa. “At Tervis we have everything: doctors and specialists so we can also offer treatments to Tervise Paradiis clients”. Everything works quickly and efficiently. “We work together with Synlab and the Pärnu Hospital so that we can offer fast and quality tests. We also have x-ray and MRI capabilities”. You can book tests within a few days and the results come

back quickly. An English report of the findings is provided so that you can take it back to your own doctor at home. New things are also happening at Tervise, where in 2017 a completely new a la carte restaurant will be built and the hotel’s reception will be renovated. “The upcoming renovations will be the biggest so far. The hotel’s reception will also have a lobby bar, which it has lacked so far. There will also be a completely new sauna and waterpark”. Renovations will be done during the summer but shouldn’t

upset hotel guests, according to Ratnik. The last bit of news about Tervise is the new Purje Café that will open on the sixth floor. In addition to the view and great food, there will also be lots of books in different languages to peruse. There is an indoor walkway connecting the two spas, meaning that it’s nice and comfortable to move between the two buildings, even in winter. The walkway is lined with interesting info points about the spa history. The orange arrows show which direction to go. ■

Kids will have hours of fun at the waterpark.

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day trip

11 Narva College, completed in 2012, is a fascinating architectural work.

An underappreciated city The castle is Narva's best-known sight, but beautiful views can also be found elsewhere.

TEXT ARJA KORHONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

”I

s it really Russia on the other side?”, a Finnish tourist asks standing in the Narva castle courtyard looking over the river towards Ivangorod. “How can they control the border when you can just wade across?”, another boy remarks. “Narva is one of the biggest tourist attractions for visitors to Estonia”, confirms the museum’s director Andres Toode. For Estonians, the general consensus seems to be that Narva is ugly and is a city that looks east rather than towards Estonia. The lamented Baroque centre was destroyed in the war. Ninety percent of the city’s population is Russian speaking. “Narva has changed considerably over the last five years”, claims Olga Tšerjomuškina from the Narva travel agency. Changes can be seen in the cityscape. The dilapidated facade of the Town Hall came back to life when the architectural award-

Ivangorod looks over from the other side of the river in Russia.

winning Narva College was built beside it. A promenade and swimming beach, as well as a modern pavilion, have been built in the river valley. Ivan Sergejev, the new city architect, longs for change. The 29 year old wants to see the city’s problems as possibilities and minuses as pluses. For example, one of the city’s ugliest buildings – an apartment building with a water tower on top, could become a nightclub. One of the biggest challenges is the Kreenholm factory, once Europe’s largest and most modern textile manufacturer. The beautiful red brick building has now stood empty for over five years. There are plans to turn it into a museum, a creative economic centre, and apartments. All of these things would fit into the spacious rooms.

Virumaa fell a little bit due to the sanctions against Russia, though there were many Russian number plates seen this summer. St. Petersburg is about 100km away. About one third of tourists are from Russia, another third from Estonia, and the rest from elsewhere. “The Toila spa is popular among visitors, but many do not venture further than that”, expresses Olga Tšerjomuškina.

There are no grounds for fear, Narva is safe and often too quiet, even if it it is Estonia’s third largest city. A year ago a playground was opened along the promenade, as well as terraces, and a concert stage, all welcome additions to the area. “ Th e Vi c to r i a b a s t i o n tunnels are a newly-opened attraction, where you can take a guided tour”. The castle’s bastion tunnels were part of

The castle gets a facelift too The Narva medieval fortress and the Russian Ivangorod stronghold are a stone’s throw away from one another. There is a long history of fighting here, since the times of Viking trading. The castles are now partners, as Narva and Ivangorod have teamed up for funding from the EU. The museum’s director, Andres Toode thinks that funding has now reached the next stage and will be completed in 2019.

Bats & Legends The queue for the border checkpoint passes in front of the Narva travel agency. Travel to Ida-

what protected the stronghold, during the war they were also used as civil defence. Much of Narva’s history and legends are tied to these. “During the last war, a lady from the Kreenholm factory brought a bed, mugs, and other personal belongings there”, explains Tšerjomuškina. The caves are among other things, home to eight different species of bat. If you’re lucky, you may even see one at night.

Children especially love the new lion statue on the promenade.

■

eve

Bart Pu

Events in Estonia recommended by culture.ee

Intsikurmu Winter Festival 2017 The ancient forest park moves from Põlva to Tallinn in the winter. Intsikurmu Winter Festival consists of enjoyable music, a good time, and many great people to fill the winter evening with warmness and bring the friends together, create new ideas for the new year and feed the soul. The amazing charm of being will be born on January 21, 2017 in theatre NO99 in Tallinn. Perfor-

Location Theatre NO99 21 January Sakala 3, Tallinn Estonia, Harju County, Tallinn, Central City, Sakala Str 3

4th Tartu Winter Music Festival The Tartu Winter Music Festival

is a festival of chamber music in Tartu that offers lovely classics and musical display by Tartu’s very own professional musicians in Tartu St. John’s Church every day of the first week of the new year. In addition to seasoned and already well-known professional musicians such as countertenor Ivo Posti and guitarist Kristo Käo, piano duo Jorma Toots and Ebe Müntel, the 2017 Tartu Winter

Music Festival will also include a recital by the new young concertmaster of the Vanemuine Theatre Symphony Orchestra, Linda-Anette Suss. Full programme: https://www.facebook.com/TartuTalvemuusikaFestival/ n

Location Tartu St John’s Church 1-8 January Janni 5, Tartu

Anna-Stina Treumund’s personal exhibition “M’s Wet Dream” On 9 December, the Tartu Art Museum opened Anna-Stina

Treumund’s personal exhibition “M’s Wet Dream”. The exhibition focuses on the female body, its natural functioning and limits that are set on it by the male-centric society. At the exhibition “M’s Wet Dream”, Anna-Stina Treumund takes the freedom to act like men and to criticize the completely phallocentric mentality that surrounds us and the culture that has grown out of it. “Women’s rights are human rights” is a slogan that is hard to argue with. When we get to individual cases, however, the public opinion can still find argu-

The American Revealing t

mers: Go Away Bird; Maarja Nuut feat. Hendrik Kaljujärv; Kali Briis Band; Keymono (LT);Oligarkh (RUS); Triana Park (LV) n

ments why the same things are not allowed to both men and women. “M’s Wet Dream” examines the limits that are set on the social life, the physiological performance and sexuality of women and visualizes how these can be broken. n

Location Tartu Art Museum 9 December 2016 - 19 February 2017 Raekoja plats 18, Tartu Find out more: https://www.facebook.com/ events/558234944371721/ http://www.annastinatreumund. com/

Text Stuart Garlick, Photos Andrei Chertkov

“S

ometimes I wake up in the morning, and I think, ‘I speak Estonian. That’s a really weird thing.’” Bart Pushaw, even as he walks people through his exhibition, ‘Conductors of Colour. Music and Modernity in Estonian Art’, can take a step back and realise the reasons why his position is interesting to people. The 26 year-old American PhD student has spent the better part of his academic career engrossed by study of the art and cultural history of Estonia. Learning the national language while still in the United States, Pushaw gained fluency with an impressive speed. He’s often asked where his enduring attachment to Estonia comes from. “I never ever thought that I’d end up here. I knew basic things about Estonia, but I didn’t know about the culture. There are aspects of the culture that are unfairly covered-up. Toomas Hendrik Ilves had this quote that really hit home for me, ‘Estonia is like a wild strawberry. If you don’t know where to find it, you can pass it by, but when you come across it, it’s the most wonderful experience you could have.’ I really like that imagery because that’s exactly what happened to me. Six or seven years after first getting here, I still have that curiosity, and it’s very fulfilling for me.” Thanks to his easy charm, and skill with the Estonian language, Pushaw’s exhibition tours are gaining an increasing following. He has noticed a change in himself since settling in Estonia. “I think it’s more in the way of adopting certain mannerisms that I don’t even think about any more. It’s like, today, I was so used to talking about the exhibition in Estonian on the tour, that it was strange talking about it in English. I don’t know it would have been different in English, but it’s a matter of content-delivery; I practice in Estonian.” Kumu, through displays such as its permanent exhibition, ‘Conflicts and Adaptations. Estonian Art of the Soviet Era (1940– 1991)’, has long sought to bring new angles and interpretations to all forms of Estonian art, but Pushaw’s interest is based on an earlier period, and comes from wider trends in northern-Euro-

pean art. “I think it’s because I started with Swedish art and Scandinavian culture, and that links in with Finnish and all Scandinavian art, and with Estonia. Being here, you can challenge a lot of ideas you might have about art, about what it’s supposed to do, and generally I think there’s a surprising richness and diversity to culture here. The impulse to create things, I think, has always been stronger here than it has in many other countries.” As the exhibition’s title suggests,

‘Conductors of Colour’ looks into the parallels between the development of painting and drawing as expressions of identity in Estonia,

and the development of all forms of music. Some have suggested that Pushaw’s viewpoint as a nonEstonian has influenced him to choose works by artists that an Estonian would not have done. In addition to the now well-known Estonian artists whose work is on display, Pushaw was keen to show art by often-forgotten Baltic German painters. “It’s a fundamental necessity for me. Without thinking about art in this context, you can’t really think about Estonia. In the time of the Baltic Germans, Estonia and Latvia were essentially intertwined. Thinking in that way enables me to think about the ethnic identities with more fluid-

ents

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ j a n ua r y 2 0 1 7

ushaw:

the Estonian Art Explosion

ity. Looking at it from the outside, it’s crazy there are these artists who were collected and displayed, but still remain anonymous to non-specialists. It’s important to look at these issues, because otherwise we feed into this idea that Estonia is this ancient concept that has always been this singular way, when in fact it hasn’t.” Pushaw feels this bias towards a singular cultural history is often present in Estonian society. “I think you see it in the way some people treat the migrant crisis. You see it in the rise of some political parties and their rhetoric. But I think it’s fervent not only here but also in places like Sweden, where Swedes have historically

had it very nicely! It’s important to emphasise the historical diversity, because I want to chip away at the historical idea of cultural homogeneity that I hear a lot.” One of the reasons, Pushaw reflected, why Baltic-German history is not celebrated a great deal in Estonia and Latvia might be because of the simple fact that almost all of the Baltic Germans who remained by the time of the Second World War left the region by 1940. Baltic Germans had some odd beliefs about their Estonian and Latvian compatriots, as Pushaw explained. “Some Germans thought that, because of Estonians’ and Latvians’ pagan

beliefs, Estonians and Latvians would literally turn into werewolves.” “This is because during the wars between 1558-1721, there was so much constant warfare, and so many dead bodies, that wolves would eat the bodies, and you would have some wolves who developed this attraction to human flesh. Due to the social hierarchy, and this endurance of pagan beliefs, ideas like this were ridiculously, deeply ingrained.” He contrasted the very separate identities of Baltic Germans and ethnic Estonians with the more mixed culture it is possible to see in Finland between ethnic Swedes and Finns. “There you have the Swedish colonial operation, but over the course of the 19th Century, you had the Swedish elite embracing Finnishness, learning the Finnish language, adopting Finnish-sounding names; you’d never have a German labelling themselves as Estonian. You had some Estophiles who would study the language and culture, but not Germans wanting to call themselves Estonian.” Pushaw’s face lights up when he talks about the golden era in the Estonian art world at the turn of the 20th Century. “I’d say generally I work on 1850 to 1950, but in the Baltic context I work mostly on 1890 to 1915, because in those 25 years, there was such an explosion of new ideas, almost out of nothing, a cultural boom. In 1903, you’d have people saying things like ‘can you believe it? I went to the studio of a real Estonian artist, wow!’ and then by 1906 you have exhibitions, and by 1909, 1910, you have artists doing talks in the Estonian language about their work and defining an identity for Estonian art. So in the space of a few years, there was this ridiculously large cultural transformation. There are these booms in many places, and at the time you don’t realise it, but looking at it historically, it’s incredible.” The exhibition runs until August 2017, and comes recommended if you want to get a new, thrilling, perspective on the development of song, dance and all forms of cultural expression, and how they dovetailed in with an increased confidence on display among artists in Estonia. n

Top Skateboarders and BMX Riders in Tallinn Again Text Silja Hurskainen, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Simple Session 2017 brings the world’s best skater and BMXers to Tallinn’s Saku Suurhall from 4-5 February. The competition makes up part of the world cup skateboard championships. While the BMX part doesn’t have this standing, top riders will still be taking part. There will be 140 participants from about 30 different countries taking part in this year’s competition, which makes Simple Session the world’s most international action competition. The course has been designed in the style of track

designer and builder Nate Wessel. The pre-competitions take place on Saturday and both finals on Sunday. The first Simple Session was organised in Tallinn in 2001. The competition has slowly grown into a big event, which is considered to be among one of Estonia’s most important international events. For this first time, Simple Session will be selling family and day tickets. n

Location Simple Session, Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn.

shopping

■ Department

Organic Fashion

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Lav Organic Lifestyle opened its

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

■ A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

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Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

doors in Tallinn’s Forum Centre in November, where you will find organic clothing brands like Lanius, Wunderwerk, and Nae Vegas Shoes. Deborah Lindquist formal wear is also on sale. All clothing is made from environmentally friendly

materials like organic cotton, silky bamboo, and hemp. ■

Location Lav Organic Lifestyle Foorum keskus, Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Debenhams offers clothes for the whole family AND HOME DECOR TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Aleksandra Podozjorova, Deben-

hams’ marketing manager told us that their key clients are housewives who are looking for the latest styles to wear at both the office and festive events. “They usually also decorate the house and choose clothing for the rest of the family too”. Located in the middle of Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre, the two-storey department store sells different brands. For example, the Principles brand offers colourful and warm tones for women who work in an office. Different clothes can also be paired together. The new women’s collection, Coast solves all your festive wear problems and there are plenty of sizes available as well. “We also sell clothing for petites and bring in completely new styles four times per year. For example in January we will be offering up to 70 off last year’s styles”, explains Podozjorova. ■

Location

There are plenty of festive styles to choose from.

Debenhams Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn Inside Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre

Debenhams sells Starbucks coffee with a special permit.

There are many different collections of handbags, like these bags from J by Jasper Conran.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7

shopping

Natura Siberica has an in-store beauty salon.

Feelings & Scents Helge Kodu – Fragrances for the home

Elena Volk tired of headache-

Les Petites shop at Telliskivi.

Every scent has its own number and name. The names make these fun to give as gifts with

TEXT SILJA HURKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

This Russian cosmetics brand

has been relatively unknown in Europe, but recently, the Natura Siberica natural cosmetics brand has slowly started gaining popularity outside of Russia. In October, Natura Siberica opened a stylish shop on the first floor in Tallinn’s Viru Keskus shopping centre. The brand has its own factory in Estonia, where most of the products sold in Estonia are made. Most of Natura Siberica’s products are certified organic. There are products for women, men, and children, including pomades, exfoliators, shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel. As

TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

causing home scents. In 2015, she started developing recipes for different scents with her friend, from which the Helge Kodu line of scents was born. Now there are eight different fresh and light scents for the home. The special series includes scents like narcissus, ginger, sandalwood, jasmine, green orange, and coriander. In spring and summer the scents are lighter than those in autumn and winter which include more aromatic scents. The scents and their timeless design are carefully thought out.

Natural Siberian Beauty the name may suggest, natural Siberian raw materials are used, like pine seeds, sea buckthorn, and other herbs that grow in Siberia. In addition to the shop in Viru Keskus, there is also a beauty salon for hand and foot treatments. Products for the procedure are mixed to suit each client individually. Oil from pine seeds is pressed three times daily in the shop. The oil is found in the majority of Natura Siberica’s products and can be used in beauty procedures too. ■

Location Natura Siberica, Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2.

names like Balance, Creativity, Adventure, and Perfection. Scents love a clean room, suggest Volk. If a room is very dusty or dirty or filled with some other strong scent, then the room scent will not come through as strong. The same goes for the bottle, keep the top clean so no dust gets inside. You can find Helge Kodu scents at Volk’s own shop, Les Petites where there are over 60 designer’s products from Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. ■

Location Find the work of over 60 designers from Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania.

Les Petites, Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn a1.

Siberian pine seeds are an important ingredients of Natura Siberica’s products.

sightseeing

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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

January Top 10 Sights in Tallinn

1 VABAÕHUMUUSEUM ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

SEAPLANE HARBOUR

(Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

TALLINN TV TOWER

(Tallinna Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

TALLINN LEGENDS

Kullassepa 7, Tallinn Old Town h1

Tallinn Legends is a unique tourist experience, a theatrical and interactive museum that recreates historical events and legends of medieval Tallinn. The entire experience takes 40 minutes, where nine fascinating legends are performed by professional actors and mechanical dolls. You are led through nine underground chambers, each a themed set for a different legend like the Alchemist deriving the formula of the Philosopher’s stone, the plague-devastated streets, or the beheading of Johann von Uexkull. The performances bring together storytelling, interactive shows, and special effects and are available in English, Finnish, Estonian, and Russian.

The 314-meter tall Tallinn TV Tower has been a popular sightseeing destination ever since its reopening last spring. From the visitor’s platform you can see the silhouette of Tallinn Old Town, some 10 kilometres to the west. Muuga Harbour is located to the north, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. In Soviet times, the tower was the only place to ‘see through the iron curtain,’ to the contour of unattainable capitalist Finland. Once you have looked horizontally, step on the glass circles in the floor and look vertically, 170 metres down! If you are less adventurous, just take a break in the caférestaurant, or get a glimpse of an interactive exhibition illustrating Estonian achievements.Back at the entrance area you can get a glimpse of Estonian history, and the restoration of independence, in which the TV Tower played an important role.

5 KUMU: ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn

KUMU Art Museum has reopened the Soviet wing of its permanent exhibition space, which focuses on Estonian art produced between 1940 and 1991. KUMU curators are reconceptualising understanding of what artists in Estonia made during the Soviet occupation for the first time since KUMU opened its doors to the public in 2006. This change is a welcome and fresh take on Soviet culture in Estonia, reflected in the new name of the display. Previously titled “Difficult Choices”, the display will now go under the name “Conflicts and Adaptations”, reflecting the multiple and contradictory roles artists played throughout the Soviet period, rather than imposing a single grand narrative. Come and see perennial favourites and outstanding works by Jüri Arrak, Malle Leis, Ilmar Malin and others in a new light!

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7

sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS

TALLINN CITY MUSEUM

(Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town g2

Situated in one of the oldest buildings in Tallinn’s Old Town, the Tallinn City Museum offers a wonderful look into the history of the country’s capital. The museum takes pride in carrying the cultural and historical heritage of Tallinn. It is not only a popular place for interactive communication and leisure time activities, but also a centre for research and memory. It includes an impressive porcelain collection, as well as a fascinating look at Tallinn before industrialisation, among other things. It is a must-see place for any history enthusiast.

KIEK IN DE KÖK AND THE BASTION TUNNELS Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

8 TALLINN ZOO

(Tallinna Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt 145 / Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn

The zoo is one of those places that you can visit many times and still not see everything. It’s fun and interesting for visitors of all ages, especially with baby animals born in the spring. Tallinn Zoo is definitely Estonian, because you can watch many of the animals live via webcam from the zoo’s homepage. But of course, visiting is much more fun. Located in the Veskimetsa park forest, Tallinn Zoo houses one of the most fascinating collections of wildlife in northern Europe. It has over 7,700 specimens from almost 600 species from all over the world. Tallinn Zoo has an impressive collection of wild goats and sheep, as well as a large population of vultures and eagles, along with other birds.

(Okupatsioonide muuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn b1

Every visit to the Occupation Museum brings a new surprise of some description. For someone who did not live through Estonia’s Soviet occupation, it’s easy to imagine what the city of Tallinn might have looked like in Soviet times, but it’s not possible to live through those times. That’s where a place like the Occupation Museum comes in. In a modernist, glass-surrounded building at the bottom of Toompuiestee, the museum projects an understated calm, all the better for drawing attention to its exhibits. The aim of the permanent exhibitions is to show what Estonia was like to live in, under Soviet rule. There are impressive artefacts, including paraphernalia from an old home, old cars, and of course the rogues’ gallery of Soviet political and military busts held downstairs, opposite the toilets, and sure to give you a fright when you realise how close you are to Lenin.

10 KGB MUSEUM

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7

The Estonian Agricultural Museum shows the journey from farm to table Animals wander freely in the museum’s yard and you can pet the horses, ponies, sheep, and goats. They even have special exhibitions from time to time about horses and other animals. There are various activities at the museum, like workshops where you can practice making rye bread, wood and metal work, as well as preparing traditional Estonian food. The Agricultural Museum also celebrates different dates from the Estonian folk calendar, like Shrove Tuesday, Easter, St Martin’s and St. Catherine’s Days.

TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

n an era where milk comes in bottles and meat in packages, it’s important to understand the work that actually goes into feeding your family. The Estonian Agricultural Museum explores Estonian agriculture and rural life, both historically and in the present. The museum is located in the picturesque Ülenurme area, about 5km from Tartu. The museum is comprised of 15 museum buildings and about 60,000 items on display. Take your time to go through the all the fascinating exhibitions. The Agricultural Museum has eight permanent exhibitions, which present agricultural development, agricultural technology, beekeeping, animal husbandry, and more.

Step back in time.

■

Location Estonian Agricultural Museum (Eesti Põllumajandusmuuseum), Pargi 4, Ülenurme, Tartu County.

Learn about the the development of farming equipment.

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

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19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

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■ 30-day: €23

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■ Single-ride ticket from driver: €2 ■ 24-hour: €3 ■ 72-hour: €5 ■ 5-day: €6

2 4

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The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey. More information: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/plan/getting-around/ public-transport.

JÄRVE

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made. The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ Registered residents of Tallinn ■ Tallinn Card holders ■ Unaccompanied children under 6 ■ Children under 3 with one accompanying adult

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24 and 48 hrs on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets: adults: €19/24hr, €23/48hr www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

I DE E ™™ J A J ANNUUA AR RY Y 2 20 01 17 7 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.elron.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station tion to the city: tram ram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ys

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Nordica - Estonia's newest airline, replacing Estonian Air currently serves many routes in Europe and Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways. +372 664 2200 info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee Open 5.00-21.00, Sa 5.00-16.00

Photo: Nordic Aviation Group

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7

nightlife

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

Patt and the Tallinn LGBTQ Scene TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS PATT

hen you think of great LGBTQ nightlife, you perhaps primarily think of London, Paris or Berlin. While there’s little to beat a night out in Soho for the richness of the experience and the huge variety of clubs available, Tallinn is doing its bit to change with the times. With the recent launch of a new gay club in the Port area, the Baltic Guide felt it was time to pay a visit, and also check out some established competitors. The opening night of Patt (Sadama 6, Tallinn a2), the first major new gay club opened in Tallinn

Patt, Estonian for sin, but may sound like something else to English speakers, is tantalising as soon as you walk in.

since the untimely demise of the Old Town’s Angel nightspot in 2010, took place amid a major fanfare, with a huge party attended by most of the Estonian glitterati and a fair few cultural impresarios, pop stars and magazine editors. Of course, having high-profile patrons does not automatically make a club the place to be, but it shows that Patt has generated huge goodwill that it hopes to sustain over the coming months. Situated in the same block as the Sadama Suveterrass rooftop lounge that attracts nighttime millennials every summer, Patt is in a location that feels like a long walk from the Old Town in the present frosty

weather, but in a few months will begin to feel far more accessible to the fairweather clubber. As it is, you’re still talking about a club that is only five minutes’ walk from Fat Margaret’s Tower on the northern tip of the Old Town and a similar stroll from the Rotermann quarter, but it is to be hoped that Patt is the start of a trend, with more bars sprouting up in the area as people move into the new apartment blocks being constructed with haste across the road. The interior is built with both chilling and dancing taken into account; there are banks of long, plush sofas and tables, with the addition of standing-height tables particularly welcome and showing a design touch that many older clubs seem to have disregarded. Bar service is quick and friendly, while there is a sizeable dance floor, meaning that you’re likely to be able to bust some moves to your favourite tune without accidentally elbowing a stranger in the face. I was told by a fellow clubber to take a look at the smoking terrace, as he told me it had a “million-dollar view,” and having looked at the superb view of the Old Town’s illuminated silhouette from the window of the woodpanelled terrace area, it’s easy to confirm that. The only slight drawback is that the terrace is, at least for the moment, enclosed, so only smokers can comfortably spend a length of time out there. However, what a view, and what a club; a great city needs a great LGBTQ culture, and places like Patt can only help. X-Baar (Tatari 1, Tallinn b2) is probably the most famous currently-operating club of its kind in Tallinn. It’s such an open, friendly place to be, whether gay or straight, and with every room of the former townhouse laid out in a different way, there’s every kind of night out available in one place. You’re wel-

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Põrgu

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Patt Sadama 6, Tallinn a2

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Karaoke

The Highlander

Shamrock

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town i3

Cigar Lounges

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

The Oak Lounge

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Nightclubs

Sigari Maja

Butterfly Lounge

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonian

Café Amigo

Karja Kelder

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Baila

Kochi Ait Tavern

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Klubi Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Chicago 1933

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Late Night Dining Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

comed with a ticket giving you a free drink, at a bar area where regulars mingle with newbies. Upstairs is for chilling out to lighter music, with places to recline and reflect with your friends. However, the dancefloor area is where it traditionally all kicks off. You’ll probably have to get in line if you want to have a go on the pole on the edge of the

dancefloor, but far more recommended is just to lose yourself in the moment as long-time pop favourites are played alongside the latest chart smashes, in a mix that works if you need something to make you smile. X-Baar might be more famous, but G-Punkt (Pärnu Mnt 23, Tallinn b2), you sense, doesn’t mind that at all. It’s known as the club that doesn’t close until it absolutely has to, and as a consequence you will find that it’s a reliably cramped, sweaty experience all through the year, but is no worse for that; if you’re not trying to impress anyone with your fancy tastes, and you just want to have a great time, G-Punkt is a nightender you can’t miss. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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