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ENGLISH EDITION/NOVEMBER 2012

Estonian

MANOR HOUSES SEE THE KOSMIKUD LIVE in Tallinn and Tartu, November 16 and 17! Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History


Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Tartu Airport Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise. Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, showcases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero


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All Vogue frames and sunglasses 99â‚Ź

99 eur

Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park in Tallinn´s Old Town

Essilor Crizal Alize anti-reflection coated lenses

2 for one glasses Eye doctor or optometrist appointments available daily

PEREOPTIKA & SÄÄSTUOPTIKA – WW-Passaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10, Tallinn (tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045) VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA – Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn (tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957) STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044) across from Stockmann PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA – Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336) gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard) Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English

www.optiline.ee

Accommodation in comfortable rooms A wide choice of wellness-, beauty and health tratments Unlimited use of water park, gym and saunas to the hotel guests All our best offers you will ďŹ nd: www.kalevspa.ee

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356./5 5"--*//rXXXDPOUNPEBFF 5FM r0QFO.PO'SJ 4BU

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

www.kalevspa.ee kalevspa@kalevspa.ee

Read articles online at

WWW.TELETORN.EE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

Aia 18, Tallinn, Estonia Phone +372 649 3300

The TV Tower is located 10 km from the city centre and 4 km from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.

Reservations Phone: +372 58150020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23 Tuesday 18-23

Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.

www.balticguide.ee


editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

5 Contents ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

A change is afoot

I

’m not going to lie; November in Estonia is a bit dreary. The brightly coloured leaves have more or less finished changing. The days are short, and the grey rainy days have yet to change to white snowy ones. But this is a great month to visit Estonia, and if you’re reading this, it means you’re already here. Great! So here is what you can look forward to: the Christmas season is just around the corner, and Estonians begin celebrating early. By the end of the month, the famous Town Hall Square Christmas Market will be in place, and the streets of the Old Town will be filled with the delicious smells of mulled wine, and traditional Estonian Christmas foods. At the beginning of the month, you can whet your appetite during Tallinn Restaurant Week. The opera

and theatre season is in full swing. And best of all, you can easily book yourself into one of Tallinn’s many day spas for an afternoon of relaxation. The season is changing, and so are we. The Baltic Guide has a new look! We have added more information into our already packed pages. Each month you can expect to find detailed information on upcoming cultural events, shopping, nightlife, travel in Estonia, Estonian history, and much more! But if there is something we missed, we want you to let us know, because after all, this is your guide to Estonia.

5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 november events 10 -11 restaurants 12-13 shopping 14-15 out of tallinn 16 beauty 17-18 museums 19 culture 20 -21 nightlife 22 history

Happy travels!

10-11

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

re restaurants Sushihouse Kompott Kukeke Neh Till ja Kummel

November TOP 10 01 Tallinn Restaurant Week 1-7 -7 November Pg. 10-11 02 PÖFF Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival 12-28 November Pg. 8 03 Kosmikud 16 November, Rock Café Pg. 21 04 TV Tower Music Lounge 13 November Pg. 8 05 Relax at a Day Spa in Tallinn Pg. 18 06 St. Martin’s day Fair 8-11 November Pg. 8 07 Day Trip: Manor houses around Tallinn Pg. 14-15 08 100 Years of Estonian Film 19 October – 29 December Pg. 8 09 Tallinn Town Hall Square opens 24 November Pg. 8 10 Sunday Roast at Neh Pg. 10-11

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

22 history Soviet era trains

The Baltic Guide

NOVEMBER 2012

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Entrance to Laitse Manor. Story on page 14-15.


6 getting

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

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Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

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AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2â‚Ź. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

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PORT A, B terminals 9 8 D terminal

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TICKETS AND ROUTES MERIMETSA Tallinn city transportation tickets can be purchased in advance from kiosks or directly from the driver. One hour, three-day and five-day tickets are available. Tickets must be validated at the beginning of the journey. Persons travelling without a ticket are subject to a 40â‚Ź fine. Persons 65 years of age or older may ride for free.

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Further information on routes and timetables: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

TONDI

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

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ROCCA AL MARE

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Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â‚Ź. www.citytour.ee

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â– Transport â–  BY BUS:

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

â– BY TRAIN:

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Train Station (Balti jaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn

Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee

From the bus station to the city: TO/FROM STOCKHOLM tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG

From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee

St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

â– BY AIR:

Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn

Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng

â– BY SEA: From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

TO/FROM HELSINKI EckerĂś Line - www.eckeroline.ee

â– Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited. Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

â– Airport and Port Transfers Getting to the port:

Free Bus from the Port

Getting to the Airport

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The MĂľigu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź.

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45. The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin

The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http:// soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź or from R-kiosks for 1â‚Ź.


around 7

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

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Welcome!

News: Breakfast served 10–12 with free vodka shot

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Useful Information No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0. ■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

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BELLY DANCING OPEN EVERYDAY 12–24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 7233 Fri, Sat 20-21

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

Parking in Tallinn Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

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M`il_fk\cc KFNE ■ It pays to be careful when choos<JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ ing a taxi, because some companies GJK% K8IKLDEK% ■ From the airport to the city cenhave much higher rates than others. C@@M8C8@8 tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€ Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear AL?B<EK8C@ with the following taxi companies: window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The GvIELDEK% Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink minimum fee must be displayed on the price Takso. These three taxi companies have a list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxiwaiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue. meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

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■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

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Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of journey, and the name of the taxi company.

Grilled Salmon 9.90ûtGrilled Duck Fillet 11€

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■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

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Parking Fees

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Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

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■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Vana-Tallinn 2ûtBeer 2.50€

■ Tallinn Taxis ■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

Kinga

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase. Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64, with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410.

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The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

Viru

The Baltic Guide is now on Facebook!

'Like' us and.... get the latest info on tourism in Estonia be the first to know about upcoming events let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions


events

8

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

St. Martin’s Day Fair Referred to as the song festival of handicraft fairs, this is a great place to pick up souvenirs and Christmas presents. It is one of the largest fairs of its kind, and brings together craftsmen and merchants from across Estonia. Both traditional and modern handicrafts will be on sale. Listen to folk music, played by well-known folk music collectives. Entrance 4. www.folkart.ee/eng/st-martins-day-fair . ■

Father’s Day Concert Enjoy the sounds of the Woodwind Quintet Estica, and beautiful view of the city of Tallinn in the distance and the sea in the foreground. At 170 metres above ground, this promises to be a unique concert experience. The con-

8-11 November Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt. 104B, Tallinn

■ International Christmas Bazaar

The exhibition HERE WE ARE! The first century of Estonian film, follows one hundred years of Estonian film history. This is the first comprehensive exhibit on the topic. It allows the visitor to learn about scriptwriters, art directors, sets, sound, editing, premieres and casting in Estonian film, as well as hear interviews with directors and famous songs from Estonian films. 19 October – 29 December Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle Pirita tee 56, Tallinn www.ajaloomuseum.ee

25 November. 11.00 – 16.00 Radisson BLU Hotel, Rävala pst 3, Tallinn

Legends of the Times

Hotel Viru Grand 40th Anniversary Cabaret Show Tour 1972-2012 Sokos Hotel Viru, Restoran Merineitsi Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

13 November, 20.00, doors at 19.00 TV Tower Music Lounge (21st floor of the Tallinn TV Tower) Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

■ 100 Years of Estonian Film

The International Women’s Club of Tallinn will be organising its 7th annual International Christmas Bazaar. Browse through great gifts, art, handicrafts, and delicious food, donated by about 20 embassies from around the world. All proceeds will go to help children’s charities in Estonia, including the SOS Children’s Village of Estonia.

Come to the legendary Viru Hotel for a three-part classic cabaret that follows the fascinating 40-year history of the hotel. Tickets include a glass of sparkling wine as a welcome drink, a three-course a la carte dinner, inspired by the flavours of the Soviet era, entrance to the Café Amigo night club, a of course the fabulous cabaret! Performances in November take place Thursday to Saturday nights. Be sure to book, tickets are selling out quickly! www.piletilevi.ee

cert is part of Corelli Music’s new concert series “TV Tower Music Lounge.” Tickets 12 at www.piletilevi.ee

PÖFF – 16th Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival This international festival has various competition categories, including EurAsia and North America. The Tridens Herring film competition focuses on feature length films from countries around the Baltic Sea. This year the festival explores Greek films from 2011-2012, including a retrospective of the films of Theo Angelopoulos. ■ 12-28 November Various cinemas in Tallinn www.poff.ee

Town Hall Square Christmas Market

8th International

Get into the holiday spirit at the annual Christmas market. Browse the beautiful handicrafts and pottery of Estonian craftsmen and artists; enjoy traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut. Admire the enormous tree in the centre of the square. Children will get a chance to meet Father Christmas, and visit the animals at the small petting zoo.

This year’s festival will have you dancing from morning to night! During the day, take part in dance workshops with fantastic international teachers, enjoy stunning shows, and at night, practice what you’ve learned dancing to sounds of various artists and DJs. You can learn dances like the Mambo, Salsa Cubana, Kizomba, Semba, Bachata, and more!

24 November – 8 January Tallinn Town Hall Square, H1-2 www.christmasmarket.ee

15-18 November Various locations in Tallinn www.tallinnsalsafestival.org

Salsa Festival


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November special! www.chateau.ee

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Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a complimentary

GLASS OF LIQUEUR!

jjjjjjjjjj TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

HEALTHY FRESH FAST

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

PASTA & PIZZA from

4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

www.troika.ee

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 25

ŠŽ”˜“Šȱ™•ŠœȱŗśǰȱŠ••’——ǰȱœ˜—’ŠȱȊȱŽ•ǯȱƸřŝŘȱŜŘŝȱŜŘŚśȱȊȱ›Žœ˜›Š—ȓ›˜’”ŠǯŽŽ

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!


10

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

■ Tallinn Restaurant Week

■ Award-winning cuisine

Over 30 restaurants in Tallinn will take part in the second annual Tallinn Restaurant Week. You can sample local and international cuisine at some of the city’s top restaurants. A two-course lunch will cost 10€ and a three-course dinner will cost 20€. Tickets must be booked in advance via the Tallinn Restaurant Week Hotline. Visit www.tallinnrestaurantweek.ee for more details.

Last month, young chef Kerstina Õun was awarded a gold medal at the EuroSkill 2012 competition. Altogether, five medals were won by Estonia. You can sample Kerstina’s cooking at Tchaikovsky, a Russian restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town, where she works.

https://www.telegraafhotel.com/ restaurant-tchaikovsky

November 1-7, 2012

Legend: ■ € - Under 10€ ■ €€ - 11-25€ ■ €€€ - 25€ + (cost of 2 course meal per person)

The new Kompott This favourite student hangout has moved to a new location in the Old Town.

estonian TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Once located across the street from Tallinn University on Narva mnt, and known for it’s great collection of Soviet era furniture and knickknacks, Kompott restaurant has moved, orange polka dot sugar tins and all, to a cosy cellar in the Old Town. The décor remains more or less the same, and you almost miss the old location, simply because of the light, but fear not, the back of the restaurant has a window

Enjoy homestyle cooking at Kompott.

so large that you forget you are in The new menu has seen some changes. The Siberian lasagne, a basement.

and the herring with boiled potatoes are still available, reminiscent of Soviet era food. (Perhaps not the lasagne, but the pork dumplings that replace the pasta, certainly). New additions, like the homemade moose sausages, are worth a try. The breakfast menu has also been extended with a selection of porridge. For the most economic option, why not try one of the daily speci-

als, either a soup or main course. They are always representative of good old Estonian home cooking, like the beetroot and carrot patties made with pork, and served with boiled potatoes, béchamel sauce, and a fresh salad. ■

Location Kompott Pikk 30, Tallinn Old Town G2 www.kompott.ee

The little bistro Kukeke knows that you can never go wrong with local.

bistro TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

As if there are not enough restaurants already showcasing local Estonian produce in Tallinn, Kukeke certainly had no choice but join the others, simply because of its location near the market at the central train station. No complaints here though, especially with the lovely earthy flavours of autumn. The two-level restaurant is located in an old railway depot. The interior is simple, keeping with the industrial look of the building. Daily specials and desserts are written in chalk behind the bar. What jumps out from the menu, is the list of juices and nonalcoholic cocktails. And you know

that the dining scene is changing in Tallinn, when you see ‘lactosefree’ written beside the mangostrawberry smoothie. An extensive list of classic cocktails is also available, and the modest wine list features mostly European wines.

Expats mourning the loss of Café Anglais say, that Tallinn has been lacking a good bistro, since its closing a few years back.

Is Kukeke the replacement? You be the judge. Some dishes on the menu have a French influence, but it’s the ingredients that have certainly inspired the chef. Try the meat, chicken liver and boletus terrine with marinated cucumber, beetroot, green salad with honey-mustard dressing to start. As a main course, the rabbit leg braised in white wine, with celeriac, carrot, fennel, rosemary, and pine nuts will not disappoint you either. And if you still have room for dessert, it might be wise to share, as the slices of cake seemed dauntingly large. ■

Location Bar Bistro Kukeke Telliskivi 57, Tallinn B1 (in the Kalamaja district) www.kukeke.ee

Have a light meal at Till ja Kummel.


restaurants

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■ NOP

■ Estonian cheese

If want to get out of the Old Town to see a different neighbourhood, take the No. 1 or 3 Kadriorg tram to NOP, a cosy organic café and food shop just off of Narva mnt. The shop sells local and specialty products (not all of which are organic). Stop in for a light lunch, or a cofee.

If you’ve been to one of Tallinn’s great restaurants and sampled a local chees platter, then chances are you’ve tasted Breti cheese. This small producer has been making artisanal cheeses since 2004, and is the only producer of blue cheese in Estonia. These small rounds of brie, both flavoured or plain, make the perfect Estonian food souvenir. Available at: Kaubamaja, Stockmann, Prisma, Rimi, Comarket, Selver, and Maksimarket grocery stores.

Köleri tn 1, Kadriorg, Tallinn www.nop.ee

Small bites Sushi House at the Rotermann Centre is the latest addition to Tallinn’s sushi restaurants.

Kukeke

Neh

Kompott Sushi House

Till ja Kummel

PALDISKI MNT. Sushi House

Sushi House

japanese TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Sushi House recently opened their third location in the Rotermann Centre. Its sleek interior is the perfect addition to this stylish shopping centre, that is quickly becoming known for its food. The menu has all of the basic sushi staples: miso soup, maki, nigiri, sashimi, and even some of their own special “sushi house” rolls. I decided to try a selection of nigiri sushi, a bowl of miso soup with tofu, and a pot of green tea. The miso soup had just the right amount of seasoning and a gene-

rous serving of tofu and wakame. Of the nigiri sushi, which is fish on top of rice, I tried the salmon, tuna, salmon roe, tilapia, eel, and goma wakame. The eel had been delicately cooked and wrapped around the rice with some seaweed. A larger portion of eel is available as a main course and served on a bed of rice. The salmon, tuna, and tilapia were fresh, and the goma wakame (seaweed salad roll) was flavourful. The service was fast and friendly, and is a great place to come

for a quick lunch, with its convenient Tallinn city centre locations. The Sushi House offers take-away and catering, and you can even organise a sushi making course. ■

Location Rotermann Centre Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, Tallinn A2 Solaris Centre Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Rocca Al Mare (Audi Tornmaja, 1st floor) Mõisa tn 4, Tallinn

HUNGRY? Enjoy a different roast, every Sunday at Neh.

The little café around the corner Local and seasonal dishes are served at Till ja Kummel.

café TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Lunch at this Old Town café is almost like having lunch at a good friend’s house. The cosy, yet light interior is welcoming, and the chef’s dog Elvis greets you at the door. (Don’t worry, he’s very friendly). There are little nuances to the simple design, like the old-fashioned ceramic light switches and power points. The door to the kitchen squeaks as it swings open, like the back door of a country home. The menu is simple, and the food, unpretentious. Try the goat’s cheese, glazed in cloud-

new nordic TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It’s autumn once again in Tallinn, and that means keeping warm, enjoying hearty roasts, and Estonian produce. At Neh, the chefs want to show you what Nordic

Island cuisine is all about; and what better way to do this, than with a Sunday roast. Every Sunday, Neh opens for lunch from 12-16 and serves you a different roast each week. (18 per person, 32 for two, and children 12 and under 12) The meal begins with a light appetiser. On this particular Sunday, we were served smoked Baltic herring. It was

berry jam, with butternut squash and chard, as an appetiser. Follow it up with the homemade game sausages, served with mustard mash and roasted pepper and red onion salad. Or try the burger, served with rosemary and sea salt fries, and dill aioli for dipping. Portions are generous, but not overwhelming. They have a short wine list, as well as local beers. Enjoy a coffee, with a dessert, like the ovenbaked apple-marzipan crumble with cinnamon ice-cream. ■

Location

Location Till ja Kummel (Dill and Chamomile) Nunne 7, Tallinn Old Town G1 www.till-kummel.ee

came in a closed jar, that was filled with smoke, and on the lid, was a salad of fresh herbs, meant to be mixed with the fish upon opening. For the main course, a cast iron pot, filled with roast lamb, beetroot, potatoes, and carrots was brought to the table, and on the side, it was served with red wine jus, and pickles. The lamb was soft, and the roasted vegetables, both colourful and flavourful. Local Estonian ingredients, at their best! Get a group of friends together, come with empty stomachs (portions are generous), and enjoy a relaxing, casual lunch. The menu for the Sunday roast is posted every Thursday, on Neh’s Facebook page.

The chefs at Neh.

Neh Lootsi 4, Tallinn A3 www.neh.com Facebook: Neh Open: Monday – Saturday for dinner, starting at 18. Sundays, set Sunday roast menu from 12-16.


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shopping

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November News Estonians prefer paying by card Recent figures from Baltic accounts of SEB Bank found that Estonians pay by card 47.5 percent of the time, versus 30.4 in Latvia, and 26.8 in Lithuania. It was also found that the more ATMs in a region, the less cash is actually withdrawn. Estonia has 0.7 ATMs per 1000 residents, compared to 0.6 in Latvia, and 0.4 in Lithuania.

Highest Eurozone inflation rate in Estonia In September, Estonia’s annual inflation rate was calculated at 4.1 percent, according to Eurostat. This was the highest in the Eurozone, followed by Slovakia, Slovenia, and Cyprus. The lowest annual inflation rates were found in Greece, Sweden, and Latvia. The annual inflation rate in the Eurozone was 2.6 percent in September.

SWEATER

weather

Autumn is the time of year for relaxing by the fire, enjoying gag good book,, sipping pp g a mulled wine, and of course, wearing a sweater. Estonian an knitwear knitw wearr is both warm, w and unique. Many of the patterns used in the design of gloves, glo oves, scarves, scarve , and a cardigans are based on traditional patterns in n folk clothing. h

Greatest Internet freedom in Estonia

■ These slippers were once worn as shoes by women on the small island of Muhu, as part of traditional folk costume. Eesti Käsitöö Maja. 57.85€.

According to a recent survey by Freedom House, Estonia has the most internet freedom in the world. 47 countries were surveyed in the study: “Freedom on the Net 2012: Shifting Methods of Internet Control," and Estonian took first place. Second place went to the United States, and then third to Germany. Countries with the least amount of internet freedom were, Iran, Cuba, China, and Syria. Estonia did not score perfectly however, losing points for tough copyright laws, and forum administrators liability for anonymous comments.

■ The buttons and trim of this cardigan have been styled with the Kadrina folk pattern, traditionally used in skirt material for folk costumes. EEesti Käsitöö Maja. C Cardigan 54.30€.

Saku wins World’s Best Strong Porter Saku Porter won “world’s best” at the Wolrd Beer Awards in London. Beers from Britain, Ireland, and Denmark, also won in the Stout and Porter category. The beer was praised for its “full and rounded mouthfeel,” as well as “leatheriness,” and a “full and rounded palate, beautifully sweet and complex, yet light and fresh.” Saku Porter has 6.9 percent alcohol by volume.

■ Embr Embroidered br Muhu glov ove compliment any gloves winte wi te coat. winter Eest K Eesti Käsitöö Maja. LLong g gloves 25.50€, Short g gloves 17.90€.

University of Tartu among top 400 in the world The University of Tartu placed 351 out of 400 in Times Higher Education magazine’s university rankings. This places the university in the top 3 percent in the world. Universities were ranked based on 13 criteria, including environment, innovation, international recognition, and scientific research.

■ The pattern on this cardigan is traditionally used in Muhu skirt material for folk costumes. Eesti Käsitöö Maja. Cardigan 53.40€.

Estonian films available on new website Tiptheauthors.com is a new Estonian online film store, where users can download Estonian-made films. The films are available for a small fee. The website is meant to give Estonian filmmakers the chance to have their films available to a wider audience. Each film is available for download for about one euro, and 90 percent of the proceeds go to the filmmaker. By the end of the year, it is expected that 300 films will be available on the website.

■ This handmade sweater is unisex and available in different colours. Hää Eesti Asi. 139.00€.


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shopping

13

■ A modern cardigan, inspired by tradition. Naiiv. Hooden cardigan 150€. ■ Wool socks are great to use in the house as slippers. Available in various patterns. Eesti Käsitöö Maja. Audru folk pattern socks 21.10€.

■ This long vest is a great accent to a simple outfit. Naiiv. Long vest 150€.

■ This colourful scarf is available in various colours. Naiiv. Scarf 32€.

■ These colourful socks can be worn everyday over leggings, or have them peeking over the top of your boot. Eesti Käsitöö Maja. White 30.50€, Pink 32.90€.

Where to buy? Eesti Käsitöö Maja Pikk 22, Tallinn G2. www.folkart.ee, www.crafts.ee

■ This men’s sweater is accented by traditional patterns and decorative clasps at the neck. Hää Eesti Asi. 89.00€.

Naiiv Pikk 33, Tallinn G2. www.naiiv.eu Hää Eesti Asi Viru 23, Tallinn H3. Facebook: Hää Eesti Asi


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outside of Tallinn

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: p i r t y a D MANOR HOUSES AROUND TALLINN The Estonian landscape is spotted with old manor houses, once owned by Baltic German nobility.

Want to learn more? Visit www.mois.ee for a comprehensive listing of manor houses across Estonia. View of Padise Manor from the tower of the monastery. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Many of the 1245 manors recorded in 1910 are in ruin, or disappeared completely; but there are still a few hundred manors that have stood the test of time, either by being converted into schools or nursing homes. Some are privately owned, and have been beautifully renovated. And there are some 200 manor house ruins, where you can still see parts of their structures. Many of the manors that you can see today in Estonia were built between 1760 and World War One, by Baltic German nobility. After Estonian agrarian land reform, the manors were used for schools, or just simply left empty, and the surrounding land divided into small peasant holdings. During the Soviet period, the deterioration of these buildings continued further, as they were only appreciated for their practical value.

Today, appreciation for these beautiful manors has returned. Visiting some of the manor houses in Estonia is a great way to get out of the city, and acquainted with a rich history. We have put together a route for you, to visit some of the manors just outside of Tallinn. While some of the manors can only be enjoyed from afar, as they are private property, some have been converted into hotels and restaurants, where you can see what they look like from inside. Want to learn more? Visit www.mois.ee for a comprehensive listing of manor houses across Estonia, including pictures and a short description. Want to stay in a manor? Visit www.manor. ee for an easily searchable listing of converted manors in Estonia.

■ 1. Padise The most interesting part of this manor property is the monastery, situated beside the mansion. This estate developed after 1305, when the Daugavgriva Cistercian Monastery near Riga moved to Padise. The monastery was given to Thomas Ramm, Burgomaster of Riga in 1622, and was used as a place of residence. The new mansion was built after the living quarters in the monastery caught fire in 1766. Today, the manor house operates as a hotel and restaurant, and you can wander through the ruins of the monastery, and even climb up to the top of the tower, for a great view over the landscape. www.padisemois.ee

TALLINN Vaselemma Manor

■ How to get there: Vasalemma

Sausti Nabala

Padise

Laitse

Kose-Uuemõisa

For the most scenic view, follow Klooga mnt west from Tallinn. Along this coastal road you will have beautiful views of the sea from the cliffside. After passing through Laulasmaa and Kloogaranna, turn left (east) onto the 8 (towards Keila). At Keila, turn right (south-west) onto Haapsalu mnt, and follow the road until Padise. From Padise, head back towards Keila, but stopping at Vaselemma Manor. Laiste manor is located about 5km from Vaselemma, following the Jaani road, heading east. From Laitse, head back to Vaselemma, and onto Haapsalu mnt towards Keila. Turn right (east) onto the E365 and follow the road until the 15. Look for signs to Sausti here, as the road is currently under construction. From Sausti, follow the road towards Kiili. Pass through Kiili, until you reach Nabala. Head to the main E263 highway and take it south. Look for signs to turn to Kose-Uuemõisa/ Kose. To get back to Tallinn, take the E263 north. Follow this link for map: http://goo.gl/maps/WYSSb


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outside of Tallinn

The Laitse Castle Restaurant is open Thursday - Sunday 12.00 - 22.00.

■ 2. Vaselemma This manor is a beautiful example of neo-Gothic architecture in Estonia. The Von Ramm family of Padise established the manor, after the Great Northern War (1700-1721). In 1886, the Baggehufwudts bought it, and the mansion was completed by 1894. After Estonian ag rar i an reform,

the manor house became used as a school, and still serves that function today.

■ 3. Laitse This manor was established in 1637. It belonged to the Ulrichs until 1814, and then to the Uexkülls, from 1883-1909. The mansion was completed in 1892. Today, the manor houses a restaurant and hotel. Stop here for lunch in their cosy pub for a filling meal. www.laitseloss.ee

■ 5. Nabala This manor once belonged to the Cisterian Nunnery of Tallinn in 1510. It was thought to be a stronghold, but the only evidence that remains is the small hill on the property. The current Baltic style mansion main building, was built in the 19th century. Today it is used for private functions,

15

Presidents of the Baltic States met at Sausti Manor in 2008.

but visitors can admire it from the fence. www.nabalamois.com

■ 6. Kose-Uuemõisa This manor house was built in several stages, with parts of it dating back to the Middle Ages. In the 18th century, this manor was one of the largest in Estonia, with a

■ 4. Sausti First mentioned in 1453, little remains of the original buildings. The main building is the only preserved building, which was built between the 19th and 20th centuries. The other buildings on the property have been rebuilt based on original plans. These include the Governor’s House, a distillery, stables, drying chambers and storehouses. Today, the manor is used for private functions, but visitors can admire it from the fence. www.sausti.ee

■ HIRE A CAR

Nabala Manor

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you yo are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental nien companies at the Tallinn Airport: com Budget – www.budget.ee Bud Europcar – www.europcar.ee Euro Hertz – www.hertz.ee Hert National – www.europcar.ee Na Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car dropoff and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www.mnt.ee. Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Han Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee A Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

Kose-Uuemõisa Manor

large greenhouse that once stood behind the mansion, and many other auxiliary buildings surrounding it. The most interesting feature of this property is the neoGothic funeral chapel that stands at the end of the park. Follow the path from the front of the mansion to the river. The main building has been used as a school since 1933. ■


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museum

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To me there is no other choice:

Raoul Wallenberg 1912 – 2012 TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Estonian Museum of Occupations shows the developments in Estonia between 1940-1991.

Tallinn City museum in the wake of change

The Estonian Museum of Occupations has a display of two thrilling exhibitions, about two legends and heroes, the Swedish diplomat Raoul Wallenberg and Nobel Prize laureate writer Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn. Both men suffered under Nazi and communist oppression. The Swedish Government has decided to commemorate, both in Sweden and internationally, Raoul Wallenberg’s centenary in 2012 by honouring his memory with various events and activities. In Estonia, the life, deeds, and

Raoul Wallenberg is also connected with Estonians who fled the Soviet occupation. During the Cold War, the Soviet Union made proposals to Sweden for an exchange of Estonian refugees against Raoul Wallenberg. Thus, Wallenberg might have been released if tens of thousands of Estonians would have been repatriated to Soviet occupied Estonia. Sweden rejected the proposal, which most probably cemented the fate of Wallenberg. The exhibition To me there is no other choice: Raoul Wallenberg 1912 – 2012 is produced by the Swedish Institute, on behalf of

The Tallinn City Museum turns 75 this year. TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN/KALMER ULM , PHOTOS TALLINN CITY MUSEUM

The decision to open the museum was taken by the Tallinn City Council on December 15th, 1937. Ever since, the museum has been manoeuvring through difficult periods, especially during the Soviet times, when history was rewritten to reflect Soviet truth and ideology. Today, the museum takes pride in carrying the cultural and historical heritage of Tallinn. It is not only a popular place for interactive communication and leisure time activities, but also a centre for research and memory. “The museum is often connected to its impressive premises on Vene Street, one of the oldest buildings in Tallinn, dating back

to the 14th century,” says Kalmer Ulm, Development Manager, “but in fact, the museum is spread around town to eight locations.” At the Vene Street location, visitors can discover the exhibition The Town That Will Never Be Completed, with acoustic elements, chronicle films, videos, and displays. Take a look at the hall, illustrating the home of a medieval merchant, or items that once depicted the wealth of well to do citizens. There is also a portrait gallery. Jubilees always imply changes and challenges. Kalmer Ulm mentions the renovation of the impressive 14th century Virgin Tower, part of the city wall. Once completed, much attention will be given eating habits, food and

feasts throughout the centuries. Visitors will also gain insight into the dazzling and thrilling history of the tower and the fortifications. The tower will be connected with Kiek in de Kök, the most well-known and loved fortification tower in Tallinn. In 2013, the museum will focus, among other things, on engravings in stone, with innumerable treasures dating back to the 15th century and made by masters in Tallinn. The artefacts will be on display in one of the bastions that can be reached from the Kiek in de Kök tower. ■

Location Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town G2 www.linnamuuseum.ee

The 14th century Virgin Tower (Neitsitorn) is currently being renovated.

destiny of Raoul Wallenberg can the Swedish Ministry for Foreign be followed through the exhibiti- Affairs, and in collaboration with on To me there is no other choice: the Forum for Living History. The Raoul Wallenberg 1912 – 2012.” exhibition is open until the end Raoul Wallenberg made a uni- of February. que contribution in the second The Estonian composer Erkkihalf of 1944 by saving tens of Sven Tüür devoted an opera to thousands of Jews in Budapest Wallenberg in 2001. from the Holocaust. His actions The exhibition on Aleksandr show that one person’s courage Solzhenitsyn will open in Decemand ability can make a difference. ber. His actions are a model for us, not ■ least at a time when more people needed to stand up against persecution, xenophobia, and anti- Location Semitism. Museum of Occupations Raoul Wallenberg was cap- (Okupatsioonide Muuseum) tured by the Soviet Union and Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town B1 taken to the notorious Ljubljan- www.okupatsioon.ee ka prison in Moscow. No one knows for EU M TARTU TOY MUS nia! sure what hapo - the cosiest place in Est pened next, and the Swedish Government is still demanding an explanation. AMAZING Raoul WalMUSEUM lenberg fought FULL OF TOYS against one of AND MEMORIES the terror dicFUN FOR tatorships of FAMILIES his time, and AND PEOPLE was killed by OF ALL AGES the other. Lutsu str 8, Tartu www.mm.ee, Open Wed-Sun 11-18


museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

A view from above Heights fascinate, and so does the breath-taking view from the Tallinn TV Tower.

TALLINN

Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The 314-meter tall Tallinn TV Tower has been a tourist magnet ever since its reopening last spring. Marketing manager Viktoria Toompere says, “we expected 100,000 visitors this year, but now 170,000 have enjoyed not only the breath-taking view from the visitor’s platform, but also all of the interactive fun.” From the visitor’s platform you can see the silhouette of the Tallinn Old Town, some 10 kilometres to the west. Muuga Harbour is located to the north, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. In Soviet times, the tower was the only place to ‘see through the iron curtain,’ to the contour of unattainable capitalist Finland. The lights of Helsinki was proof that there was a free world, which inspired many! Once you have looked horizontally, step on the glass circles in the floor and look vertically, 170 meters down! If you are less adventurous, just take a break in the café-restaurant, or get a glimpse of an interactive exhibition illustrating Estonian achievements. Back at the entrance area you can get a glimpse of Estonian history, and the restoration of independence, in which the TV Tower played an important role. “Yet another reason behind the success of the TV Tower is, that we are well connected with music,” says Viktoria Toompere. “We arrange concerts twice a month, jazz in cooperation with the Jazzkaar festival and baroque music with the Corelli Music agency. ■

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Smaller Galleries Draakoni Galerii Pikk 18, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm Mo-Fr 11-18, Sa 11-17

Hobusepea Galerii

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Kunstisalong Allee

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.allee.ee Mo-Fr 10-18, Sa 11-15 Tallinna Kunstihoone Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.kunstihoone.ee We-Su 12-18

Vaal Galerii

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Tartu mnt 80d, Tallinn www.vaal.ee. Tu-Fr 12-18, Sa 12-16

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Vabaduse Galerii

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

■ 1980 The tower was opened on July 11, with communist party functionaries attending. The Soviet reality prevailed, during the Olympics the business was up and running, on the next day, the water was cut off and there was no indoor plumbing until the following spring.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm We-Mo 11-18

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

■ 1975 Construction was started, as Moscow was selected to host the 1980 Summer Olympics, with sailing events in Tallinn. The tower was one of the Olympic sites.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

A Brief History

www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Vabaduse väljak 6, Tallinn Old Town, J1 Mo-Fr 10-18

TARTU

Museums Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)

■ 1991 The tower was one of the symbols of Estonia’s restoration of independence, particularly when Soviet troops tried to seize it in August of 1991. People from all over Estonia rallied to defend the tower. A handful of armed people barricaded themselves at the top.

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

■ 2012 The tower was opened to the public in the spring, and is now an interactive experience centre.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

November 12, TV-Tower Jazz, 101 Clowns by Tiit Kikas.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

December 4, Advent Concert

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

EVENTS:

Open: Daily 11-18 Closed Tuesdays

How to get there: Buses 34A, 38 and 49 (Teletorni stop). The City Tour bus also stops here.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Jaani 16, Tartu http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18 http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum) Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

Art Museums & Galleries

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5

Art Museums & Galleries Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18


18

spa/beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

PORT/HABOUR

Tallinn SPAS

1

Train Station RANNAMÄE 11 6 TEE

OLD TOWN 4

PALDISKI MNT. 7

PIRITA/VIIMSI 8 10

1

9

VIRU AHTRI NARVA MNT. SQUARE5 2 Viru hotell

3 ESTONIA Stockmann GONSIORI

You don’t need to travel far for a day of relaxation.

PST.

LIIVALAIA

TARTU MNT. JUHKENTALI

PÄRNU MNT.

■ 5 This spa is the first spa in Estonia to offer ichthyotherapy, or fish therapy. Dozens of tiny fish swim in a bath around you to remove dead skin cells. Afterwards you are left feeling relaxed and your skin is soft.

Aloe Spa, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn ■ 6 Enjoy a small pool, jacuzzi, steam bath, and sauna as well as a wide variety of massages at this luxury spa in Tallinn’s Old Town. Day Spa TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Spa culture in Estonia is by no means a new phenomenon. The first spa dates back to 1824 in Kuresaare, after the benefits of curative sea mud were found. Today, there are hundreds of spas all over Estonia, but there are many spas right here in Tallinn as well. Enjoy a day of pampering, or take your kids along to one of the waterparks. A few hours at the spa can be the perfect balance with a few hours of sightseeing. In recent years, Tallinn has seen a boom in day spas, and it seems that everywhere you look you see

DAY SPAS IN TALLINN ■ 1 Enjoy a wide array of spa treatments as well as different types of saunas and pools, including an outdoor pool open all year.

Aqua Spa (Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel) Sadama 11a, Tallinn ■ 2 This spa is one of the best in the city. You are taken care of as soon as you walk in, given a robe and led to lounge chair to wait for your treatment. Enjoy a sauna or a dip in the jacuzzi too.

Babor Spa, Narva mnt 5, Tallinn ■ 3 City Spa is one of the largest spas in the city. There is a fitness club, pool,

Elemis Spa, (Hotel Telegraaf ), Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town ■ 7 This is another one of the larger spas in Tallinn. The complex has saunas, a salt chamber, pool, and solarium.

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn ■ 8 This unusual building was once a yachting centre, built for the 1980 Olympics. Today however, you can enjoy a wide variety of spa treatments, saunas, a small swimming pool and the beautiful surroundings of Pirita.

Pirita TOP Spa Hotel, Regati pst 1, Tallinn ■ 9 Located in the heart of the Old Town, guests will be pampered combining time-honoured techniques and modern spa technology.

Reval Day Spa, Pikk 7, Tallinn Old Town

The "Sweet Tube" at Kalev Spa Hotel and Waterpark.

Spas and Children Children can have fun at the spa too! There are spas with water parks that both children and adults alike can enjoy. Some spas even offer spa treatments designed for children. When making your booking, be sure to ask what your spa offers for children. ■ 10 This spa is located just a little way out of Tallinn and has different pools, including a children’s pool and

many different kinds of saunas.

Viimsi Spa Hotel, Randvere tee 11, Viimsi ■ 11 Located in the heart of Tallinn, this spa hotel has a great water park for children, and saunas for the adults.

Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark, Aia 18, Tallinn Old Town ■

For something a little different: Thai massage involves stretching and deep massage. No oils are used, and the client wears comfortable, loose fitting clothing and the massage takes place on the floor. To put it simply, it’s like doing yoga, but someone else is moving your arms and legs for you. While some positions seemed easy, others were more difficult. Marika, my massage therapist said that Thai massage is different for everyone. Some people are more flexible than others, and Thai massage is not suited to everyone. This is why she asked me a few standard questions before starting. For example, Thai massage can be beneficial for pregnant women, but the technique must be adapted. Try a one hour or 90 minute treatment. Royal Thai Massage also offers different varieties of Thai massage, including an hour specifically targeting hands or feet, as well as other styles of massage. ■

Relax, while you wait for your treatment at Babor Spa. one. This is by no means a bad thing! A day spa is all about relaxation and wellness. Here you can come for things like chocolate body wraps, hot stone massage or just a simple traditional massage. Most of the day spas in Tallinn offer facials, manicures and pedicures, as well as waxing. Many of the hotels also have day spas within their complexes. Whether in a hotel or in the Old Town, bookings are always recommended.

and childcare facility. Enjoy a wide variety of treatments to relax and unwind.

City Spa, Rävala pst 4, Tallinn ■ 4 Relax with a massage, facial and much more at this Old Town day spa. It has a very cosy and comforting atmosphere, and is geared towards individual treatments rather than groups.

Day Spa, Vana-Posti 4, Tallinn Old Town

Location Aloe Spa is the first spa in Estonia to offer ichthyotherapy.

Thai massage involves stretching and deep massage.

Royal Thai Massage Rävala pst 6, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.royalthaimassage.eu


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

culture

19

: e r t a e Th

OPERA AND THEATRE: Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal) Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, I/J3 www.concert.ee

The Big Feast

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.nukuteater.ee

(Suur õgimine) Inspired by the 1973 film by Marco Ferreri, the play, The Big Feast, brings four friends together for one final feast. “The table has been set and on it, absolute freedom is served. Keeping in mind suitable table manners,

pick your knife and fork. Slice a bite. A juicy, savory, unbearably tasty bite. Albeit the last one.” ■ November 19, Theatre No99, Tallinn Performance with English subtitles. www.no99.ee

"When the last supper is at hand, nobody needs to hide anymore."

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

: c i s u M

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, I/J2 www.draamateater.ee

Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia) Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, J3 www.opera.ee

Paris 1966

House of the Brotherhood of the Blacks Heads (Mustapeade maja) Pikk 26, Tallinn Old Town, G2 www.mustapeademaja.ee

Niguliste Museum Concert Hall

Erkki Otsman will be performing French hits of the 1960s on November 29.

: n e r d l i h c r o F

Cinderella Love knows no boundaries, that is the magic of life! -Marina Kesler Sergey Prokofiev’s ballet comes to the stage in Tallinn. Marina Kesler retells this classic fairy tale through beautiful choreography. It is a ballet for the whole family, and a fairy tale brought to life. ■ November 16, 23, 25 Estonian National Opera, Tallinn www.opera.ee

The 1960s gave birth to new styles of music, in particular, French chansons. During this evening of music, hear the songs of Charles Aznavour, Jacques Brel, Gilbert Bécaud, Juliette Gréco, Serge

Gainsbourg, Yves Montand, Marie Laforet, just to name a few. ■ 19.00 - November 29, Estonian National Opera, Winter Garden, Tallinn www.opera.ee

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.ekm.ee

Nokia Concert Hall (In the Solaris Centre) Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn, J3 www.tallinnconcerthall.com

Russian Theatre (Vene teater) Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, J1 www.veneteater.ee

Saku Suurhall

The Moon is the Sun

Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn www.sakusuurhall.ee

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) Narva mnt 95, Tallinn www.lauluvaljak.ee

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.linnateater.ee

(Kuu on päike) This one-act rock musical is set to the songs of Estonian singer Tanel Padar and his band, The Sun. Padar is known for winning the Eurovision Song Contest in 2011. It is a musical about dreams, but also the self-destruction that comes along with wanting to be someone else. ■

Theatre NO99 Sakala 3, Tallinn, B2 www.no99.ee

Von Krahl Theatre Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town, H1 www.vonkrahl.ee/teater

Outside of Tallinn: November 22, 23, 24, 25. Estonian National Opera Chamber Hall, Tallinn www.opera.ee

: p u g n i Com

Endla Theatre (Endla teater) Keskväljak 1, Pärnu, www.endla.ee

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja) Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja) Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee

New Year’s Eve Ball If you’re planning to be in Tallinn over the holidays, or more specifically for New Year’s Eve, why not enjoy a Venetian carnival? This annual event at the Estonian National Opera is an exciting way to bring in the New Year. Enjoy an evening of colourful costumes, beautiful masks, and glamorous entertainment. The first half of the evening will be the musical production

“Carnival of Venice,” with the Italian tenor Alessandro Luciano, accompanied by soloists, a choir, and the orchestra of the Estonian National Opera. During the second part of the evening, enjoy the “La Jazz” jazz program by Villu Veski and Tiit Kalluste, with special guest, Sofia Rubina. Carnival of Venice 20.00- December 31, Estonian National Opera, Tallinn www.opera.ee

Ugala Theatre (Ugala teater) Vaksali 7, Viljandi, www.ugala.ee

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja) Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee

Vanemuise Theatre (Vanemuise teater) Vanemuise 6, Tartu, ww.vanemuine.ee


nightlife

THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM ANNIVERSARY SEASON

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

76 historical buildings, exhibitions, new village shop, Estonian national food at the inn Martinmas preparations on November 4 Christmas Village on December 14-16 Open daily 10-17. We are closed December 24, 25, 31 and January 1. Buses: 21 and 21 B, leaving from the Balti train station. City Tour blue line leaving from Viru Square. Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 /DGLHV·VKRHVDQGERRWV6L]HV

: o t n e t Lis

Ewert and the Two Dragons

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Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

While Estonia is not the most well known of countries for producing international talent, Ewert and the Two Dragons are continuing to make a name for themselves across Europe and North America.

Tel. +372 641 6440

Big selection o purses, wallets and gloves

Already a success in the Baltics, Finland, and France, their recent performances in Germany and London (where the band sold out one of the city's more select venues, The Borderline) have been well received, and you can expect this talented group of musicians to hit the big time any time soon. Their second album, last year’s, Good Man Down, showed a band hitting all the right notes. Their gentle indie folk mix pointed to a host of influences from Jeff Buckley to the Beatles and provided us with

a band who could be compared to Travis (if Travis were cool) or Mumford and Sons (if Mumford and Sons weren't a bunch of pretentious wankers). At present, the band is on tour in the States and are going down well with a whole new audience. With a new album in the pipeline, it's only a matter of time before they become everyone's (and I mean EVERYONE'S) favourite band. ■

Estonia certainly has a dark side. While all the tree hugging, smiling blond bar staff (if you go to the tourist bars) and endless array of folk-rock groups may suggest a sweet natured, ethereal nation, dig a little deeper and you'll soon discover that something much blacker lies beneath it all. Kosmikud are key proponents of this darkness, as their upcoming Estonian tour will reveal. Formed in 1999, their depressive rock sound sums up the more maudlin side

of Estonia. Slow, riff laden rock feasts, mixed with the odd burst of power should appeal to Rock and Metal fans alike. Meelis Hainsoo's deep growling vocals are reminiscent of a Vasco Rossi who doesn't mind getting dirty once in a while or a grumpier James Hetfield. But it's not all so depressing, as their regular trips into rock cliché, and a penchant for public nudity show. ■

www.ewertandthetwodragons.com

Tunor retail and wholesale Aia 10a, Tallinn, Tel. +372 6 313 337, Open en M-F 9-18 9 18 9-

HANDICRAFT ASSOCIATION OF ESTONIA Stores: Eesti Käsitöö Maja (Estonian Handicraft House), Pikk 22. Tel. +372 6 314 076 Platsiveere Meistrid (Platsiveera Masters), Pikk 15. Tel. +372 6 313 393 Viru Keskus (Viru Shopping Centre), Viru väljak 4/6. Tel. +372 6 101 332

www.folkart.ee

Fairs in Tallinn:

St. Martin’s Fair - Mardilaat, Saku Suurhall 8–11 November

Unique handicrafts for sale. Traditional production mixed with modern style. True artists, natural textiles, wood, metal, and ceramics. Product sales and exhibitions in Handicraft Association of Estonia stores.

www.kosmikud.ee


nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

: t a g n i k n i r d o G

21

, shares Mark Benn ings, t, a -p x e h lis , Eng even Every month n where to spend your . o ig g ts his though dancing, or going to a , g be it drinkin

Drink Baar

Every town needs to have at least one place where the weary traveller can go and feel instantly at home. In Tallinn, that place is the imaginatively named Drink Baar. To call Drink Baar another British style pub would be to do it a great disservice, as its popularity with ex-pats, tourists and locals shows. Drink mixes all the good aspects of British pub culture (homely decor, wholesome menu and sport on TV) with a wealth

of events that has placed it in the centre of English speaking culture in Tallinn. The regular comedy nights are certainly a major pull and the existence of a regular pub quiz has proved a hit with homesick Brits and curious locals alike. On top of this, their rather impressive beer list shows that no corner of the globe has been left unturned while searching for decent ale.

So, if you’re lost for somewhere to go, you could do a lot worse than try Drink Baar for an evening of Belgian Beer, friendly chatter and some of the finest fish n' chips this side of Dover. ■

Location Drink Bar & Grill Vaike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2 www.drinkbaar.com

: t a g n i c n a d o G

777 – The Bank Club 777 – The Bank Club, previously known as the Apollo, has just (re)opened as the biggest club in Estonia, promising to add a little bit more to Tallinn's nightlife than came before. Inside, no expense has been spared. The classy scarlet and black décor, matched with golden ornamentation, reeks of class and sophistication, while the leopard/ zebra skin walls suggest the club’s more playful side. All in all, upon entering, you know that this is a

hedonist's paradise; and with a schedule that sees DJ's and musicians playing that heady mix of hip-hop, RnB and Euro-pop that has made Russian MusicBox such a hit over the last few years, the international party goer is guaranteed to have the night of their life. November's highlight has to be the presence of the headline grabbing Ukrainian trio, Nikita. Famed for their raunchy videos, sexually driven European dance-pop and head-turning live shows, the group,

The next Drink Bar Comedy Night will be on December 13.

e d i u G c i t l a B : s d n e m m o c re

led by Playboy playmate Dasha Astafieva, perform on November 2nd, backed by DJ's Sonic and Deniss Karabljoff. Tickets are 20 and dress code is formal. ■

Location 777 – The Bank Club Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3 www.club777.ee

: e e s o G

Sports

Kosmikud

Clayhills

Arena 3

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

Drink Baar

BonBon

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

Hell Hunt

CatHouse

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Mad Murphy’s

Club Baila

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Nimeta Baar

Club Hollywood

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live Music

■ SEE THEM LIVE: 16 November – Rock Café, Tallinn, Tartu mnt 80D www.rockcafe.ee 17 November – Genialistide Club (Genialistide klubi), Tartu Lai 37 (at the back, across from the Botanical Gardens)www.genklubi.ee Supporting Kosmikund in Tallinn and Tartu are the equally melancholic Finnish metalers, Viikate. Tickets available at: www.piletilevi.ee

Nightclubs

Club Privé

Café Amigo

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Club Studio

Chicago 1933

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

Panoraam

Clazz

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Parlament

Guitar Hunt

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2

Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Partei

Rock Café

Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Plub

Von Krahl

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

Town H1

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

Tallinn Nightlife Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3


22

history

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

z A Brief History of Estonia

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu. 1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet Non-Aggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

Get a glimpse of a DIFFERENT ESTONIA Take a ride on a Soviet era train before they disappear.

Brand new Swiss Stadler commuter trains will be introduced as of June 2014.

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN PHOTO , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Join the thousands of commuter train passengers that travel to and from Tallinn everyday with the trains of the Elektriraudtee (electric railways). They will take you away from touristy Tallinn and give you a glimpse into life outside the city. The arrogant young, rich, and beautiful BMW and Mercedes owners are absent; they would never set foot on a commuter train! In this respect, Estonian society still differs from Western Europe, where everyone uses communal transportation. The old Elektriraudtee Soviet trains are shaky, bumpy, and noisy; sometimes it is too cold, or too warm inside, and the lighting is not the most pleasant. The trains are difficult to board and definitely not made for handicapped people – in the Soviet Union there were none! The atmosphere on board is rather timid; nobody speaks to the stranger next to them. You can expect that at least one person in the carriage will be drunk, someone will be snoring, others will be furiously typing on their laptops, and some, just staring at the passing scenery. They are all part of everyday life in Estonia. There is no high fashion here. You will enjoy the journey if you are laid back and curious about life and people. Perhaps even

someone will start talking with you then. The Elektriraudtee maintains three lines from The Tallinn Central Station, Balti jaam. Two lines to the West of Tallinn, to godforsaken places like the former Soviet naval base Paldiski or rural Riisipere, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. The eastern line ends at Aegviidu, a 100 quiet village, surrounded by wonderful lakes, forests, and hiking trails, used for skiing in winter. This is hard to believe on a grey

The old Elektriraudtee Soviet trains are shaky, bumpy, and noisy.

November day. Paldiski is perhaps the most interesting. Once super secret and sealed off from the majority of the population, it was a mecca for privileged Soviet officers. Some have stayed and the town is still mainly Russian speaking. The two or three main streets are empty. Apart for the harbour activities, not too much is going on, however many apartment blocks have been painted, and there is even a restaurant. It is definitely not a tourist town, and after half an hour, it is safe to say that you will have seen it all. The Pakri Peninsula, just outside of town is scattered with abandoned bunkers and military debris, especially fascinating if you are interested in Soviet history. The peninsula itself is stunning, with tall limestone cliffs, and is home to the rare black guillemots, which look like small penguins. The journey is only 40 kilometres long, but takes about an hour and 20 minutes, because the train makes several stops. Brand new Swiss built Stadler commuter trains (electric and diesel), will be introduced as of June 2013. The last Soviet trains will be phased out in June 2014. For tickets, schedules and information visit: www.elektriraudtee.ee ■

The platform at Balti Jaam is always busy with commuters.


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Must-see sights of Tallinn Tallinn with a view The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town can be seen from viewing platforms at Toompea. The best view of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower. ■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell). ■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

Tallinn Botanical Gardens species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. ■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become

Town Hall Square ■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. ■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building. ■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ 3 Kiriku Platform The platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view

■ 4 Best of both worlds Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town. ■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower. The Toompea Tower (15th century) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!

Kadriorg Park ■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution. ■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here. ■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter. Town Hall Pharmacy

■ 1 Kohtu Platform The Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. ■ 2 Patkul Platform The Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city centre, and to the Tallinn railway station. Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn

of splendid and romantic sunsets. The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other platforms.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

Patarei Prison

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.


M O B E R 2 0 1 21

24

useful information

TALLINN

24

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22 Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia ■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country: + (country code)(phone number) ■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222. ■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

WIFI Networks There are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee. Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service provider.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is available in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre. Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at:

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20


25

Train Station

Map of Old Town is on the next page.

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Ta nt m u rt

A.Alle A4 Aasa C1 Ääsi C5 Adamsoni B1 Ahtri A2 Aia A2 Aida A2 Ao B1 Asunduse B4 Bensiini A4 Eha B1 Endla C1 Estonia pst B2 Faehlmanni B4 Falgi tee B1 Filtri tee C3 Gildi C3 Graniidi A1 Hariduse B2 Harju B2 Hermanni B3 Herne C2 Herne C2 Hobujaama B2 Imanta C3 Inseneri B2 Invaliidi C2 Jahu A2 Jakobi C3 Jakobsoni B3 Jõe A3 Juhkentali C3 Kaarli pst B2 Kadri tee A5 Kai A2 Kalamaja A1 Kalaranna A2 Kalaranna A2 Kalju A1 Kanuti A2 Kappeli C4 Karu A3 Katusepapi C4 Kauba D1 Kauka B2 Kauna C2 Kaupmehe B2 Keldrimäe C3 Kentmanni B2 Kevade B1 Killustiku C5 Kivimurru C4 Kodu C2 Kohtu B1 Koidu B1 Koidula B4 Köleri B4 Kollane B3 Komeedi C1 Kooli A2 Kopli A1 Kotka C1 Kotzebue A1 Kreutzwaldi B3 Kristiina C1 Kuhlbarsi B3 Kunderi B3 Kungla A1 Kuninga B2 Laagna tee B4 Laagna tee B4 Laboratoorimi A2 Lahe A4 Lai A2 Laikmaa B2 Lasnamäe B4 Lasnamäe B4 Lastekodu B3 Laulupeo B3 Lauteri B2 Leigeri A1 Lembitu B2 Lennuki B2 Liivalaia B3 Liivamäe B3 Logi A2 Loode B1 Lootsi A3 Lossi plats B1 Lubja C4 Luha C1 Luise B1 Maakri B3 Mäekalda B4 Mäekalda B5 Magasini C2 Majaka C4 Majaka põik C5 Malmi A1 Mardi C3 Masina C4 Mere pst A2 Müürivahe B2 Nafta A4 Narva mnt A4 Niguliste B2 Niine A1

Nõmme tee C1 Nunne A1 Odra C3 Õilme C2 Olevimägi A2 Oleviste A2 Oru A5 Paadi A3 Pae C5 Pagari A2 Paldiski mnt B1 Pallasti C4 Pärna B3 Pärnu mnt B2 Peterburi tee C4 Piiskopi B1 Pikk jalg B2 Pirita tee A5 Planeedi C1 Põhja puiestee A2 Poska B4 Pronksi B3 Pühavaimu B2 Puhke C2 Rahukohtu B1 Rannamäe tee A1 Rannamäe tee A2 Rataskaevu B2 Raua B3 Rävala pst B2 Ravi C2 Roheline Aas B4 Rohu B1 Roopa B1 Roosikrantsi B2 Rumbi A2 Rüütli B2 Sadama A2 Sakala B2 Salme A1 Saturni C1 Sauna B2 Sikupilli C4 Soo A1 Spordi C1 Süda C2 Sügise B1 Suur-Ameerika C1 Suur-Karja B2 Suur-Kloostri A2 Suur-Laagri A1 Suur-Sõjamäe C5 Suurtüki A2 Tare C2 Tartu mnt B3 Tatari B2 Tehnika B1 Telliskivi A1 Terase B3 Tina B3 Tobiase B3 Tolli A2 Tõllu A1 Tõnismägi C2 Toom-Kooli B1 Toom-Kuninga C1 Toom-Rüütli B1 Toompea B1 Toompuiestee B1 Tööstuse A1 Tormi A4 Tuha C5 Türnpu B4 Turu B3 Tuukri A3 Tuulemäe C5 Tuvi C1 Ülemiste C4 Uue Maailma C1 Uus A2 Vabriku A1 Väike-Ameerika C1 Väike-Karja B2 Vaikne C2 Vaimu A2 Valge B5 Valgevase A1 Vana-kala maja A1 Vana-Lõuna C2 Vana-Viru B2 Vase B3 Veerenni C2 Veetorni C1 Vene B2 Vesivärava B4 Videviku C1 Villardi B1 Vilmsi B3 Virmalise C1 Virmalise C1 Viru B2 Võistluse C3 Volta A1 Weizenbergi A4 Wiedemanni B4 Wismari B1

LIST OF STREETS

NOVEMBER 2012


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ŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300


The Baltic Guide ENG November 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

The Baltic Guide ENG November 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

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