The Baltic Guide ENG March 2012 by The Baltic Guide

ENGLISH EDITION/MARCH 2012

Tallinn Music Week Shoe Shopping in Tallinn Restaurants off the beaten track Interview: Inga Peanurm

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

3 Contents

At long last…winter!

ourism to Estonia continues to increase. At February's TOUREST Travel Trade Fair, a record number of visitors attended, 26 080 to be exact! 468 representatives from 26 countries took part in this year’s fair, coming from as far away as Africa. What does this mean for Estonia? The year of the Cultural Capital of Europe may be over, but last year set the bar high. This year, Estonia must strive to set new standards. The forecast looks good: accommodationbooking figures remain high, and increased low-cost flights will continue to bring European visitors to Tallinn. In this issue we take you outside of Tallinn to the

Estonian ski capital. Enjoy over 80km of cross-country ski trails in Otepää. Or if downhill skiing is more your style, Estonia even has a few slopes. At the end of the day, relax those tired muscles at the spa, then recharge with a great meal. But to get a true sense of the Estonian wilderness, you must go off the beaten path and try a bear watching tour. Winter arrived in Estonia late this year; in fact, we did not see much snow until February. But the snow is here now, and it’s time to get outside and enjoy! The days are getting longer and spring is just around the corner, so before it’s too late, be sure to enjoy the Estonian winter.

3 editorial 5 culture 6-7 TOP10, news 12 -13 restaurants 14-15 nature 18 spa 20 music 21 culture 22-26 information

Kristina Lupp Editor-in Chief

entertainment Tallinn Music Week Estonia Piano Factory

10 shopping Shoe Shopping

Tourest

16-17

person

Disappearing into Tallinn’s medieval winter wonderland During Tallinn’s snowy winter months, one has the rare opportunity to be „time warped“ back to the Middle Ages. When darkness abounds, snow is lightly falling, and one is walking along the no-cars-allowed zone on Pikk St., that magical feeling of „this is what it must have felt like 300 or 400 years ago“ is very strong. No cars are in sight to ruin the fantasy land feeling, no 50 person cruiseship groups to bring one back to 2012. Just the silent sound of snow squeaking under one’s boots. As children, we all saw time travel devices on TV. Who ever thought they could be brought to life in the Old Town of Tallinn? It is moments like these that the Old Town of Tallinn is at its most magical. And this is why

one must pick up the frozen gauntlet and visit Tallinn in winter. Leave summer time Tallinn to the cruise ship groups – you are now part of the cogneseti who know where to experience the real Tallinn of yonder years. One might argue that the author, having lived in Tallinn for 20 years, has been blinded by the winter time ice pellets striking his eyes, or perhaps his brain has been numbed by the wind tunnels found on the above-mentioned Pikk St. or behind St. Nicholas church on Rüütli St., but there is only one way to be sure. Come and find out yourself.

Inga Peanurm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472 MARCH 2012 The Baltic Guide is available free of charge in Sweden and in Tallinn’s D-Terminal; at tourist information points in Tartu, Pärnu, Haapsalu, Saaremaa and Hiiumaa; at the EAS in Stockholm in the Estonian House, Estonian Air Stockholm and Tallinn and Tartu Airports.

Hillar Lauri

CORRECTION ■ The Baltic Guide would like to apologise for the mistake in January’s article about the price of the Tallinn City Tour. One 24 hour pass for the Hop On Hop Off Bus is 16€.

The Baltic Guide Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Model: Kristina Nikitina Photo: Andrei Chertkov

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Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

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culture

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Rannahotell - The Beach Hotel was built in 1937.

ARCHITECTURE AS A REFLECTION OF SOCIETY Beach Town, Mushroom Balcony and Vodka Cabinet is a thrilling exhibition at the Museum of Estonian Architecture devoted to one of the most legendary Estonian architects, Olev Siinmaa (1881-1948). TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: MARTIN SIPLANE

The first period of independence in Estonia was characterised by optimism and new ideals. The country was finding its feet from previous Russian and German rule and underwent a fast development phase. A nation with genuine Estonian character developed; one of its attributes was pride, however humbly, and the other, new-found self-confidence. These characteristics were also reflected in city planning and architecture. Estonian functionalism, which was influenced by contemporary European ideals became known by these ideals. Light was flowing into buildings.

Simplicity prevailed. Cities and towns were given a sophisticated look. Olev Siinmaa was one of the architects and is the father of modern day Pärnu, the summer capital of Estonia and a city with spa traditions dating back almost 200 years. Siinmaa’s most famous building is the Beach Hotel (Ranna hotell) built in 1937 is considered as one of the best examples of not only Estonian functionalism, but some critics even claim that it is one of the best examples of functionalism in the world. During Soviet times the building decayed like everything else, but now The Beach Hotel has been renovated and is still one of the most popular

Ringi 14 - A residential design by Siinmaa.

places for summer activities, not only in Pärnu, but also in Estonia as a whole. Next to the Beach Hotel is another of Siinmaa’s masterpieces, the Beach Pavilion built in

the early 1930s and its most distinguishing feature is its mushroom balcony. Siinmaa also shaped the residential area between downtown Pärnu and the beach. Here you

can find splendid villas from the 1930s that became ideal housing for the elite. At the exhibition you can also learn about Siinmaa’s furniture. The furniture is mainly designed for state institutions, such as the Presidential Palace and the Bank of Estonia. This design sharply contrasts with the light elements typical of his architecture. Elements of national symbols that seem heavy and out-dated reflect the political ideals of that period. The Museum of Estonian Architecture also has exhibitions on permanent display. Visitors can learn about various periods of Estonian architectural history. In the early 1900s, plans were made to develop Tallinn into a city of large scale, as seen by such prominent architects as Eliel Saarinen of Finland. Another interesting display is devoted to wooden architecture in Estonia, such as the Kalamaja borough in Tallinn. You can also learn about the mania-grandiosa plans from Soviet times and the impact of the prevailing socialist ideology on city planning and building ideals during the post-war period until the late 1980s. The Siinmaa exhibition Beach Town, Mushroom Balcony and Vodka Cabinet is open until March 18. ■

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Location Rannahoone - The Beach Pavilion and its mushroom balcony.

Rotermanni Soolaladu (Rotermann's Salt Storage) Ahtri 2, Tallinn Map Code A2

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6 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

March TOP 10 01 Revisit the 90s at Café Amigo Celebrate International Women’s Day at Café Amigo on March 9 with the Swedish disco star Pandora. Listen to the nostalgic hits of the 90s. Tickets available at www.piletilevi.ee 11€ in advance, 15€ at the door.

02 Mary Poppins in Tallinn Enjoy one of the three performances of the popular musical Mary Poppins at Tallinn’s Nokia Concert Hall on March 17 and 18. The musical is organised through the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre. Subtitles are in English and Finnish.

-BJ 0ME 5PXO 5BMMJOO t Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00 t +372 6 650 928 restoran@chateau.ee t www.chateau.ee

Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a complimentary

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Photo: Alan Proosa

03 Stoner Rock and Heavy Metal If you love Stoner Rock or Heavy metal, visit the Rock Cafe on April 8 to enjoy the new and old hits of the Swedish group Mustasch. Tickets through www.ticketpro.com, 22€.

04 More Women’s Day Concerts TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON W IEN AMSTERDAM B ERLI N HAMBURG ISTANBUL

HEALTHY FRESH FAST PASTA & PIZZA

International Women’s Day is celebrated all over Estonia on, before and after March 8. The Danish Band Basix will perform at the Pärnu Concert Hall on March 7, at the Estonia Concert Hall in Tallinn on March 7, at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre on March 9, and at the Jõhvi Concert Hall on March 10. Belgian guitarist Francis Goya will devote his concert on March 8 at the Nokia Concert Hall to women and love.

05 Legends of Acid Jazz The London band Brand New Heavies will perform at the Rock Cafe on April 27. Their musical fusion of jazz and hip-hop will no doubt draw everybody to the dance floor. The concert is part of the annual Jazzkaar-festival. Tickets 26€.

06 Lithuanian Hell and Danish Contemporary Art On display until April 29 at the Kumu Art Museum are the works of the postmodern Lithuanian painter Šarūnas Sauka. Sauka paints infinite hell with a human face, behaviour and mind. He is considered one of the most significant postmodernist painters in Lithuania. 10 young prominent Danish visual media artists will showcase their work through installations including video, sound, sculpture, and painting. The viewer can enjoy witty solutions and an opportunity to rediscover the world of illusions. The SPATIUM Exhibit runs until May 13.

07 Simple Session 2012 Hold on to your hats because European skateboard legend Bastien Salabanzi will be participating in the Simple Session 2012 skateboard competition on March 31 and April 1 at the Saku Suur Hall in Tallinn. Salabanzi is the winner of Simple Session 2005 (as well as many other competitions).

from

4,50 €

08 Sound of Music, Ballet Casanova and much more.

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010

Enjoy the ballet Casanova, Sound of Music and more in March at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre. The Vanemuine is one of the most popular theatres in Estonia. The story of Casanova goes like this: he was a scandalous Venetian, who was not only an adventurer, fraud and a freethinker as he is usually portrayed, but he was also a poet, memoir writer, philosopher, and musician. The ballet opens on March 12.

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

09 Lunch Music

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

Relax and contemplate life to music for 15 minutes at 12.15pm every Tuesday and Friday at the medieval Jaani Church in Tartu.

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!

FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 25 47

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

10 Tartu and Southern-Estonia on Facebook. Join the Facebook page to find out about tourism in Tartu & Southern-Estonia. Hear what the tourism officials are saying. Post comments about your travel experiences, or if you’ve never visited before, ask questions to other members of the group.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

news 7

March News ■ IMMUNOLOGY CENTRE AT TARTU UNI The University of Tartu will build a 7 million Euro immunology and virology centre to increase the school’s medical capabilities. Construction will begin in the summer. The centre will have the facilities to carry out cell therapy and study infectious diseases. The centre will be created based on a new model and will set new standards.

■ NEW OFFER ON RUSSIAN BORDER TREATY Russian diplomats have proposed a to re-open negotiations for an Estonian-Russian border treaty. Estonia is currently the only EU country that borders Russia without a border treaty.

Найди медвежонка и Русский Стандарт на картине и получи угощение Leia pildilt mängukaru ja Russian Standard Vodka pudel ning küsi kostitust Find a teddy bear and bottle of Russian Standard Vodka and get a treat

R SS RU RUSSIAN S IA AN REST RE RESTAURANT STAU ST TAU AURA RANT ANT N

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

■ IMPROVED E-VOTING A draft legislation introduced by the Constitutional Committee of Parliament will improve verification and security for electronic voting. Voters will be able to see if their vote was received and in the event of compromised security, the system will have the capability of suspending or shutting down service.

■ MODEST EXPECTATIONS FOR 2012 TOURISM World economic and political instability has made the Estonian hospitality industry proceed with caution. Accommodation booking figures remain high however. In 2011, tourists to Estonia spent 1.2 billion Euros, an increase of 15% from the previous year.

Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn, Estonia • tel. +372 627 6245 • restoran@troika.ee • www.troika.ee

Mündi 2, Old Town. Main Square Tel. (+372) 631 3016

Molly Malone’s IRISH PUB TALLINN s LIVE MUSIC s TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC SESSIONS s OPEN MIC s LIVE SPORTS ON 7 BIG SCREENS

s HAPPY HOUR 5PM-7PM WEEKDAYS s GREAT VALUE FOOD AND DRINK s FANTASTIC ATMOSPHERE

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

■ ESTONIA - SINGAPORE AVIATION AGREEMENT Estonia and Singapore signed an aviation agreement in February aiming to create a flight connection between the two countries. The terms of the agreement does not specify a specific airline companies.

■ ESTONIAN AVERAGE MONTHLY WAGE GROWS The average monthly wage of Estonians rose 6.3 percent in the 4th quarter of 2011 to 864 Euro. The average hourly wage also rose by 7.4 percent to 5.19 Euro. The wholesale and retail sector saw the largest rise in average salary.

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

s GREAT PARTIES s "THE FRIENDLIEST BAR STAFF IN TALLINN" FIND US ON

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entertainment

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

ESTONIA  Top Quality from Tallinn In 1893 Ernst Grove made his first piano, and then in 1950, the piano factory was set up. It was named Estonia.

Tallinn Music Week offers an opportunity to see new Estonian music all in one weekend.

A Short Course in Estonian Music Discover new and upcoming Estonian bands at Tallinn Music Week. TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO: TALLINN MUSIC WEEK / RASMUS JURKATAM

For the fourth year in a row, promising Estonian bands and musicians will gather in Tallinn for a music festival. "This year there are 183 artists from 13 different countries, which sets a new record for the festival. The majority of the bands are from Estonia, but some acts will also be coming from Finland, Canada and Russia," says festival organiser, Helen Sildna. The festival's goal is not only to showcase a wide range of music from Estonia to the public, but also to bring bands, managers and record companies together. "It is like a three-day intensive short course in music," explains Sildna. The festival will showcase all kinds of music. Venues will feature rock, punk, electro, metal, jazz, ethnic, and classical music. "We chose new, modern music that could appeal to an international audience," says Sildna. The festival will be held in 15 different venues across Tallinn, including Rock Cafe, Von Krahl Theatre,

and Sõprus Cinema. With a festival pass you can enjoy as much live music as you want. Passes are available at Piletilevi. "This year we have organised concerts during the day as well as in downtown galleries and bookstores, all with free entry," says Sildna. The goal is to make live music accessible to everyone, even in the most unlikely places. For the first time, the festival will have a stage presented by the biggest music festival in the Baltics, Positivus. Exciting artists from Latvia and Lithuania, including Lithuanian singer-songwriter Alina Orlova will perform on this stage. The Skype Award is given to the band, who is deemed to have promising international talent. This award was presented last year to the band Ewert and The Two Dragons. "The new stars of Estonia are difficult to predict," thinks Sildna. High expectations are placed on Iiris's debut album, which the singer will perform on March 29 at Tallinn Music Week.

Factory manager, Venno Laul proudly shows off the Estonia grand piano. TEXT: MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Today the factory produces 200 grand pianos. "We feel that quality is most important, not production volume," says factory manager Venno Laul. The factory’s owner Indrek Laul, lived in New York for 20 years. He is a Doctor of Music and pianist. Thanks to Laul, the quality of the pianos has risen over the past decade to a new level. The factory now competes as one of the world's best manufacturers. The pianos are made from different kinds of wood including rosewood, and pyramid mahogany. All the raw materials are now

brought from Germany. Even the low-quality wire used during the Soviet period has been replaced by higher quality steel wire from Germany. Every year, pianos are rated in the Piano Buyer and Laul's Estonia piano is rated among the top piano producers along with New York's Steinway & Son. It has beat both Petrof and Schimmel. Laul told us about the making of the pianos in the factory and how a hand-made piano's sound is mellow and romantic. Forty specialists are employed in the factory and have learned their trade on-site. Everyone has a lot of work to do. ■

■

Tallinn Music Week March 29-31. ■15 different venues in Tallinn. ■183 bands from 13 different countries. A wide range of music, including ethnic, jazz, rock, metal, and indie. Managers, festival organisers and record labels from all over the world will be attending. Bands include: Rubik (FIN), Husky Rescue (FIN/SWE), Alina Orlova (LT), Mona De Bo (LV), Ireland and from Estonia, Iris, HU?, Mimicry, Mari Kalkun, Paabel, and Liis Lemsalu. www.tallinnmusicweek.ee.

Quality is ensured by skilled craftsmanship.

Estonia Piano Factory - It is a family business, run by Indrek Laul. His mother, Reet Laul is a concert pianist, and tests each piano. His father, Venno Laul, a choir director and professor emeritus, is the factory's manager. - Production started in 1950 in the same building as today. - Indrek Laul took ownership in 2001. - There are five different models. - Their grand pianos can be found in the European Council building in Strasbourg, at the European Parliament in Brussels and in music academies, and in churches all over the world. - About 200 grand pianos are made each year, and 94 percent of them are exported.

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

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Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

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Restaurant Open: Monday - Saturday 12-23 Vene St. 4, Tallinn Reservations: +372 5837 7333 E-mail: info@klafira.ee www.klafira.ee

HANDICRAFT ASSOCIATION OF ESTONIA Stores: Eesti KĂ¤sitĂśĂś Maja (Estonian Handicraft House), Pikk 22. Tel. +372 6 314 076 Platsiveere Meistrid (Platsiveera Masters), Pikk 15. Tel. +372 6 313 393 Viru Keskus (Viru Shopping Centre), Viru vĂ¤ljak 4/6. Tel. +372 6 101 332

www.folkart.ee

Fairs in Tallinn: Medieval Festival - Keskaja pĂ¤evad, Tallinn Old Town 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8 July St. Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fair - Mardilaat, Saku Suurhall 8â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11 November Unique handicrafts for sale. Traditional production mixed with modern style. True artists, natural textiles, wood, metal, and ceramics. Product sales and exhibitions in Handicraft Association of Estonia stores.

shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

STEPPING OUT Vivian Vau

Discover the great shoe shopping that Tallinn has to offer.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: STIINA KASE, VIVIAN VAU

When you think of Tallinn, shoe shopping is certainly not one of the first things that comes to mind. Tallinn has many great shoe stores located both in the Old Town and in the various shopping centres around the city. In Tallinn’s Old Town be sure

ABC King, along with its other stores Nero, SHU and Kaubamaja, has one of the largest selections of footwear in Estonia. There are many different sizes on display for many of the shoes, so often it is possible to try your size without having to wait. ABC King has many well-known brands including Miss Sixty, Esprit and

SHU

ABC king

to visit Vivian Vau. The window of this small boutique is filled with colourful leather shoes and bags that will certainly catch your attention. Imported mainly from Italy and Spain, these unique designs are guaranteed to impress.

Tommy Hilfiger. Not enough selection? Visit one of the great shopping centres in Tallinn. Rocca al Mare, while located a little way outside of the city, is easily accessible by bus. A free

Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre

bus runs between the Port of Tallinn to Kristiine Shopping Centre and Rocca al Mare regularly. This mall has 14 different shoes stores, including an outlet for the department store Stockmann. Kristiine Shopping Centre is about a 10-minute bus ride from the Independence Square. Kristiine has 17 different shoe stores,

including Ecco, Högl, and Bata. Viru Centre is located just outside of Tallinn’s Old Town. Nero, ABC King, and SHU can be found here. The department store Kaubamaja is also inside the Viru Centre and has a great selection of shoes, with excellent service as well. ■

Kristiine Shopping Centre

Location Vivian Vau, Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn, Old Town Map Code H1 ABC King, Nero, SHU, Various locations. www.abcking.ee Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn. www.roccaalmare.ee Kristiine, Endla 45, Tallinn www.kristiine.com Viru Keskus (Centre), Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn Map Code B2 www.virukeskus.com

Such a feeling... SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES. Come for an eye exam today. Register on-line www.optiline.ee or in-store. PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

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restaurant

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

oh my! Discover one of the many great cocktail bars in Tallinn. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, SWISSÔTEL TALLINN

It’s Friday night, or maybe it’s Tuesday evening, either way you’re looking for a place to unwind and relax after a long day. The Baltic Guide decided to pay a visit to some of the great cocktail bars that Tallinn has to offer. Here are four of our favourites. The Swissôtel’s Horisont Bar is a great place to unwind after a hard days work. The bar menu offers a great selection of clas-

sic and modern cocktails, and the view is not that bad either. On a clear day, enjoy the view over the city centre and the beach all the way to Pirita. While the clientele are mostly business people, it would be a fun place to take a date. The cocktails are served with a selection of flavoured nuts and pretzels. Try a classic Manhattan (8.90) or a Fresh Cucumber Martini (8.90). If you’re looking for a younger crowd, they can be found at Eliksiir. On the weekends, this

cocktail bar picks up later into the evening. It’s a fun place to host a birthday party or just a large group of friends, as there are two large round tables just as you walk in the door. Try a Tom Collins (5) or a Margarita (5). Butterfly is known for its mojitos (lg. 9, sm. 6), and perhaps its gorgeous staff as well. Ladies, if you are looking for the beautiful men of Tallinn they can be found mixing your cocktails at Butterfly. You can enjoy the modern décor and a relaxed atmosphere, while

tasting selections from a small food menu and trying new and unusual cocktails. Try the applecitrus Waka Waka Martini (5) or for something a bit sweeter, the Maple Martini (5). Weekends fill up quickly, so book a table in advance. Clazz is known as a great live music venue, good restaurant, and its cocktails certainly follow suit. Weekends at Clazz fill up quickly, as do weekdays. Get in early, enjoy a cocktail and a meal, then stay late for a great live act and enjoy

Let one of Tallinn's great bartenders mix a delicious cocktail for you!

good service. Try the Clazzical Man cocktail (5.50), which is a refreshing blend of vodka, green tea and lemon. The White Russian (5.50) is a creamy cocktail to warm you up on a cold winter’s night. ■

Location Swissôtel Horisont Bar (Top floor) Tornimäe 3, Tallinn Map Code B3 Eliksiir. Estonia pst 5, Tallinn Map Code B2 Butterfly Lounge. Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Map Code B2 Clazz. Vana Turg 2/4, Tallinn Old Town H2

restaurant

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Boheem

Updating Tallinn’s Restaurant Scene

F-hoone

Some of the most interesting new restaurants in Tallinn are in an area of the city that has not yet been discovered by tourists. TEXT: JUKKA ARPONEN PHOTOS: JUKKA ARPONEN JA ANDREI CHERTKOV

These restaurants can be found on the other side of tracks in the Kalamaja suburb. Until now, this suburb was known for its cafés, and only the brave explorer in search of Soviet nostalgia dared to seek out them out. This suburb, remembered for some its quirky locales, served up cheap beer, and sprat sandwiches; the latter being what might have kept the tourists away. Moon's unique gourmet style sits on the outskirts of the suburb. This restaurant has been highly acclaimed by critics and continues to remain very popular. Bookings recommended. Moon set

the example and some very interesting restaurants have opened up as a result. We visited four different restaurants, which all had three things in common: trendy, youthful and reasonably priced. F-hoone, Kamahouse, La Bohème, and Tops all have similar principles. They work in reclaimed space not originally designed for a restaurant. Each place uses recycled furniture and other items not found in regular shops. Their mismatched interiors always offer something to look at. With good food and good service, it can be said that Tallinn's restaurant centre is shifting northwards. F-hoone has an international menu, which means flavourful

Kamahouse

Asian spices complement local food. The baked cod was tender and juicy. It was served with a potato cake and vegetables that did not override the delicate flavour of the fish. This old factory warehouse has certainly been transformed into something great. Kamahouse has a little bit of everything. An artist's studio, gallery, shop, law office and restaurant can all be found under one roof. This place is certainly worth a visit. The Kamahouse kitchen offers great meals made with quality ingredients for reasonable prices. Main courses are 5.90 and the duck breast with mushrooms was certainly worth it. The interior is interesting and cosy.

Tops

Cafés/Bars:

Restaurants:

■ Boheem, Kopli 18. Main courses under 5€, beer 2.50€ / 0.5L. On Kopli street, Telliskivi tram stop. ■ Tops, Soo 15. Snacks 2-4€, beer 2.50€ / 0.5L. Lounge, Põhja pst tram stop.

■ F-hoone, Telliskivi 60a. Main courses 5-9€, wines from 10€ / bottle, beer 2.60€ / 0.5L. In an old industrial building, Telliskivi tram stop. ■ Kamahouse, Kopli 25. All main courses 5.90€, wines from 12€ / bottle, beer starting at 2.50€ / 0.5 L. Art and more, Angerja tram stop. ■ Kohvik Moon, Võrgu 3. Main courses from 9-6.50€, wines from 17.50€ / bottle, beer 2.50€ / 0.5L. Near the Kalasadam, Linnahall tram stop.

Boheem Café, like the name suggests is a café, but also a great restaurant. The menu offers soups, wraps, crepes, and salads. Portions certainly satisfy hunger without emptying your wallet. Their Caesar salad is one of the best in the city. And there were no complaints about the crepes and soups either. Tops isn't really a restaurant because it doesn't have a kitchen either. Snacks are displayed on the bar. We tried the goat's

cheese salad: the toasted bread, rocket, balsamic dressing, crisp salad and a soft cheese complemented each other. A larger portion works well even for dinner. You can even choose the music from their large vinyl collection. Tops can be described as a retro gourmet and drink bar. ■

nature

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Otepää offers t u b s, lp A e th e it Not qu ch more! u m d n a g n ii sk , w sno

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: OTEPÄÄ TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER.

Upcoming Events: ■ March 11 - Kekkose Ski Race, named after the late Finnish president Urho Kekkonen

■ March 16-18 - Baltic Biathlon Cup ■ May 13 - SEB Tartu Marathon ■ May 27 - SEB Tartu Bicycle Marathon

Try the downhill slopes at Kuutsemäe or Väike Munamägi, close to Estonia’s winter sport Mecca, Otepää. Then, take a break to enjoy a beer along with some Austrian-inspired tunes. The atmosphere is reminiscent of some of the great after-ski parties in the Alps. And do it all again the next day. Actually, try skiing on a day with limited visibility, then you won’t see that there aren’t any mountains around; there are just a few slopes, the longest run being some 500 meters. The race from the top, down the hill doesn’t take very long, but for Estonians, it’s great fun! They take pride in the fact that Estonia can boast having higher hills than Latvia and Lithuania! The highest point of elevation in Estonia is only 317 meters. The slopes in Otepää are busy with skiers and snowboarders. Everyone is having fun both on and off the slopes! Downhill skiing is not the only reason to visit the area. Otepää is known foremost for it’s excellent cross-country skiing, with some 80 km of tracks, many of which are illuminated at night. And don’t forget about the over 60 km of track used for the Worldloppet Tartu Marathon. In addition to downhill and cross-country skiing, Otepää offers winter activity fanatics skijumping, ice skating, snow tubing and much more. No equipment, no problem: everything is available for rent. ■

How to get there? Otepää is located about 250 km southeast of Tallinn and 60 km south of Tartu. Daily flights operate from Helsinki and Tallinn to Tartu (50km). www.flybe.com/ Taxi from Tartu approx 35€. Frequent bus services to/from Tartu and Tallinn. www.bussireisid.ee Otepää Tourism Information www.otepaa.ee

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

nature

■ Summer in Otepää During the summer season, Otepää is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country. It offers an excellent 18-hole golf course, lovely beaches at Lake Pühajärv, excellent cycling trails, walking trails and much more. Otepää is also an excellent point of departure to discover the south eastern areas of Estonian like the ancient Seto communities and their fascinating folk traditions.

A bear is waiting for the exciting action.

Following in a bear’s footsteps Bear watching is attracting tourists from all over Europe. TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, IMAGES: NATOUREST, SVEN ZACEK

■ Where to stay? Where to eat? Otepää and its surroundings offer over 70 hotels, hostels and cottages. Rooms are found easily midweek, but weekend accommodation fills up quickly. Advance bookings are advised. The upscale Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort located in an old manor house on the shores of romantic Lake Pühajärv (Holy Lake) is a place of natural tranquillity. This hotel offers fine dining, accommodation, and spa facilities. It is popular among conference guests.

Villa Müllerbeck is relatively new, offering luxurious accommodation offeri and an excellent restaurant. The hotel is located loca on the shores of a small lake on the th outskirts of Otepää.

Bear watching in Finland is already a big business. A few dozen companies offer hundreds of small huts for bear watching, and this activity is bringing hundreds of thousands of euros to people in remote areas. The first company in Estonia to offer bear watching is NaTourEst, located in the Alutaguse area in eastern Estonia. It is estimated that about 700 bears live in Estonia, many of which live in eastern Estonia. Nature Guide Triin Ivaldi has been working as a bear tour guide for a couple of years now. "We

don’t just look at bears. We teach visitors about bear habitats, identifying their footprints and droppings, and we even look at a bears' winter habitat," explains Ivaldi. "Then we go to a small hut where we spend the entire night." These huts have everything: chairs under the windows for bear watching, and beds for resting. The best season for bear watching is in May and June, when the probability of seeing a bear is very high. "The bear watching hut is safe, as is walking through the forest. In Estonia bears are hunted, so they are very timid around people," says Ivaldi, reassuringly.

Every year more and more people come to watch bears. Most visitors come from England, but tourists from Germany, Holland, and France are also interested in bear watching. From the hut you can see many other animals such as wild boar, moose, foxes, martens, and even wolves sometimes. The most thrilling experience Ivaldi had was one summer evening when a cycling tour group met a bear on the forest trail. The bear stayed calm and watched the group as they watched him, eventually retreating back into the forest. ■

GMP Club Hotel overlooks Lake Pühajärv. The hotel’s terrace offers Püh a stu stunning view over the rolling hills and is the perfect setting to enjoy a sunset. Amenities include a great sun restaurant, live entertainment, and rest a gy gym. Pii Sport and Recreation CentPiiri re is located 13 km from Otepää and offers self-catering accommoan dation in huts. Its simple lodging da is perfect for groups attending sporting events. sp More restaurants, bars and discos can be found in the downd ttown area. Waiting inside the comfort of the bear-watching hut.

person

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

March News Possible Estonian Embassy in Brazil Foreign minister Urmas Paet said that globalisation, changing foreign policies, and growing interest in Estonian companies is one of the reasons for developing Estonian foreign service. In 2011, an embassy was opened in Kazakhstan and a consulate general in Sydney. This year, an embassy will be opening in India. Brazil is under consideration for an embassy, along with possibilities of embassies in Asia and Balkan countries.

New Embraer 170 Lands in Tallinn In late February, Estonian Air received its first 76-seat Embraer 170 aircraft. Estonian Air will be leasing a total of four planes from Finnair, eventually hoping to acquire twelve. These additional planes will allow for more frequent flights to both existing destinations as well as new routes.

Estonia Becomes IFAD Member Estonia became a member of the International Fund for Agricultural Development. IFAD was started in 1976 as a UN special organisation to reduce poverty in rural developing regions. The Estonian Ministry of Agriculture wishes to share the international responsibility and contribute to the development of sustainable agriculture and food supply.

Estonia Scores High with EUA Estonia received high marks in all four categories of the University Autonomy Tool. This on-line application compares the political independence of higher education in 28 European countries. The four categories are: organisational, staffing, financial, and academic. Estonia came first in the staffing category and second in the financial independence category.

Support for Officers Monument The Reform Party has announced their support to a veteranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organisation planning to build a monument in memory of officers killed by the Soviet regime from 1940 onwards. The monument will be built in Tallinn.

A meal fit for the PRESIDENT

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

person

Inga Peanurm is executive chef to the President of Estonia, no simple task indeed. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO: PRIVATE SAMPLE

Inga Peanurm has been cooking for almost 20 years. Inspired by local and seasonal cooking, she takes traditional Estonian dishes and gives them a new look. This time of the year is particularly busy for Peanurm, as she has been busy with preparations for the Annual Presidential Reception. Since November, Peanurm has been collaborating with other top Estonian chefs and will be preparing over 13,000 canapés for close to 800 guests.

dining. Changes are also specific to those cooks that have wanted to keep up with the times and change themselves along with Estonian cuisine. Fortunately we have a large selection of raw materials and producers that we can be proud hold the Estonian cuisine flag up high. How would you explain Estonian cuisine or Estonian food to those that have never tasted it? Estonian cuisine and Estonian food is everything that we have

Can you explain what the Estonian Chefs Association is? The Estonian Chefs Association was created on July 13, 2000. Its members are active in the Estonian cooking community and are mostly chefs who voluntarily develop and promote Estonian food culture. They also participate in the training of young chefs. Our main activity is organising cooking competitions. Every year we organise the Cook of the Year and the Young Cook of the Year cooking competitions.

What is your favourite food? My favourite foods are seasonal ingredients and the ideas for new dishes they inspire. At the moment I am enjoying parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes. You can get creative with these ingredients and prepare just about anything. What are your favourite restaurants in Estonia? I don't have any true favourites because most of the time I am so wrapped up in food prepara-

tion. And because I am always at work, I don't get a chance to go out much. In my opinion, at the moment some of the best and most interesting places to eat are Tchaikovsky, Bordoo, Mannerheim, Oko Kohvik, Neh, F-hoone, and Egoist. There are many great places to eat in Estonia, and every taste can be catered to. But most importantly, chefs must always cook with love. ■

My favourite foods are seasonal ingredients and the ideas for new dishes they inspire. What is Estonian Food? The many countries that have ruled Estonia, including Denmark, Poland, Germany, Sweden, and Russia, influence Estonian cuisine. Dishes such as black pudding, sauerkraut, headcheese, and potato-based salads are typical. Modern Estonian cuisine creates new dishes using local ingredients. Top Estonian chefs have been reinventing these traditional dishes in new and interesting ways, keeping the flavours the same. Black pudding mousse anyone? Traditional favourites with a new spin.

How did you become interested in cookery? I became interested in cooking thanks to my father who brought out the food lover in me. In 1993, I went to cooking school to learn professional cookery; and in 1996, I got my first job at Nunne Kelder. Gradually, my love of food continued to grow and develop, and then eventually my workplace had to change too. Today I know for sure that I have chosen the right profession and without the world of food, my life would be rather boring. How do you think Estonian cuisine has changed since you first started cooking? I believe that I chose to enter the cooking profession at the right time, as I have had the chance to work between two different eras. For example, the popular Soviet-era cafeteria eating culture has changed now to a la carte

grown, developed and maintained; our traditional foods and those new recipes developed by chefs; and all of the flavours associated with the Estonian people and culture. We try to keep our ancestral recipes alive by modernising them, but the basic flavours remain the same. Every year a Presidential reception is held. Can you explain what it is and who participates? February 24 is the anniversary of the first Independence of Estonia and each year the Estonian president invites those people who have helped their country in some way. For cooks, participation in the February 24 reception is a huge honour. I have been organising my menu since November. Everything was all ready to go by February 16. Seven chefs and two pastry chefs will prepare food for the Presidential reception.

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Relaxing between treatments at Babor Spa.

Winter Skin Three fantastic spas, all within Tallinn’s city centre. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

While not a spa, per say, Maribell Ilusalong has the appearance of a beauty salon from the outside. Maribell offers hair services, including cuts, straightening and extensions; makeup and manicures, facials and massage. The Thalasso facial, including massage, (as part of a package, including makeup, hair wash, cut and blow dry 92) was just what the doctor ordered. After the cleansing of the skin and pore cleaning, the beautician applied a caviar mask, then a piece of cloth and afterwards a foam spray, which had the consistency of whipped cream. While I waited to for the mask to set, the beautician massaged my arms and hands. She explained: “It’s very important that the client is never left alone. During a facial, they have the choice between a hand or foot massage.” A good pedicure is also recommended in the winter. This is the perfect time to give your feet a rest from nail polish and a good clean. Lasting about an hour, the spa pedicure (44) soaks, cleanses and polishes your feet until they are very soft. Maribell is visited just as much by men. A satisfied client had just walked out of his massage (1 hour 32) and said: “I’ve tried many masseuses in Tallinn, but at Maribell, they actually relieve my pain.” Day Spa, is located on a quiet street in Tallinn’s Old Town. From the outside, you would

not be able to tell that it actually has four floors, connected by a large spiral staircase. Day Spa offers everything from hair services to waxing to massage and manicures. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and specialised in various areas. For winter skin care, the Hydradermie Lift (48) is a wonderful facial to really bring life back into tired skin. First, a firming gel is applied and then a micro current removes excess fluids and toxins improving your skin’s appearance. A gentle stimulation then energises the facial muscles. After leaving the spa, your skin is soft and evenly toned. The ultrasound facial (41) has similar effects. It stimulates blood flow and brings oxygen back into the skin. This facial procedure is an excellent way to soften the appearance of scars.

A facial puts life back into tired winter skin.

The energising Khanya Wellness Body Treatment.

It's very important that the client is never left alone.

Maribell offers hair services, as well as traditional spa treatments.

Babor Spa, is where you come to truly relax and indulge. Babor has been servicing the spa industry for over 50 years and their experience certainly shows. As soon as the client steps off the street and into the serene setting of the Babor Spa, they are immediately cared for. Clients are shown to the coat room where you can take off your shoes and slip into cosy slippers, afterwards you are given dressing gown and taken to a lounge chair, where you wait for your beautician. While you are more than welcome to choose your own procedures, the staff at Babor help you choose a procedure that it right for your skin type. Älian, manager at Babor Spa says that, “no two people are alike. It’s not so

much what’s best for your skin in winter, but what’s best for your skin type.” The New Skin treatment (49) is a facial procedure just recently added to the Babor repertoire. First, an enzyme-peeling mask is applied which opens the pores and prepares the face for the procedure. Then, the New Skin Fluid is applied which moisturises the skin, and helps skin retain water. The Daily Protect Fluid is then applied to smooth, soften, and protect the skin. Then finally the Advanced Biogen Mask restores skin’s balance. A facial massage is also included in the procedure, and the beautician will choose an appropriate technique. The Khanya Wellness Body Treatment (65) pairs well with a facial. This energising body treatment, with the use of African maracas promotes good health, and renewal. The combination of sea salt cleansing, marula oil and tea tree oil have you feeling truly revitalised. Use of the sauna and Jacuzzi are included with all procedures. Come in for a quick manicure, or splurge on a relaxing atmosphere in a truly tranquil setting. ■

Location Maribell Ilusalong (Viru) Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn Map Code B2 Maribell Ilusalong (Solaris) Estonia pst. 9, Solaris 5th Floor Tallinn Map Code B2 Day Spa, Vana-Posti 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code I 2 Babor Spa, Narva mnt 5, Tallinn Map Code B2

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music

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Q & A with The Rude Grooves We met with Mike Both of the Tallinn-based blues-rock band The Rude Grooves to talk about their music, their influences, and Tallinn’s growing music scene. TEXT: EERO SOOTS, PHOTOS: THE RUDE GROOVES

You’re described online as a blues/rock trio. What else can you tell us about yourself and your fellow band members? TRG is comprised of me, Mike (from Australia, half Estonian/ half Aussie). I've been playing bass for 24 years now, and work in software development. Our drummer, Aimar, has been playing for five years is Estonian and works in graphics and advertising. Kris (guitar / vocals) is also Estonian and is a certified cook but for the moment works in a skate/snowboard shop; he's been playing guitar for about ten years. You have several covers of famous musicians online as well as original material. How much of your live set is original material and how much if any are cover songs?

Most of our material is covers, some fairly obscure, and we often rework or rearrange things. We've also got a few originals that are performed regularly, with more on the way. Could you briefly describe your music style and list some of your influences? Our style covers, broadly - blues / rock / psychedelic / funk, and is drawn from our shared influences (Hendrix, Cream, Led Zeppelin, Sabbath and many more). Each of us brings differing musical abilities and styles to the TRG table. How would you describe the rock/blues live music scene in Tallinn and Estonia? Is there a certain city or town in Estonia that is best for live blues/rock? The music scene in Tallinn is definitely growing right now. You can hear decent live music in many

clubs/bars/pubs. The same goes for Tartu but on a slightly smaller scale. Turnouts at gigs always depend on the genre of the music being played. For instance, metal, heavy rock and also hip hop seem to be more popular among younger people than blues or jazz. What we have found is that people get into any kind of genre if the performance is engaging and honest. We know that most of the people in the audience probably aren't big blues fans in their spare time, but if we give a good performance and get their feet tapping, they have been converted, so to speak! Still, Estonians are more reserved as an audience than foreigners. We have done a few gigs where a third of the crowd is foreign and they are always the first ones to get into it. Where are the best places in Tallinn to see live blues/rock?

Unfortunately there isn't a dedicated place for this style of music, but venues that regularly feature blues/rock include Von Krahl, Guitar Hunt, Clazz, Scotland Yard and Rockstars. Where is your personal favourite venue to play and/or see live music in Estonia? Our favourites are Von Krahl and Rock Cafe. Von Krahl is a really nice "intimate" venue in the Old Town with good acoustics and management supportive of live bands, while Rock Cafe is a great venue for seeing visiting or local bands. How often do you play live gigs? Depending on the time of year, two to four times a month, with more gigs during summer and in the festival season.

Do you play gigs anywhere else in the Baltics? Not yet, but negotiations are in the works with venues in Latvia and Finland. See The Rude Grooves live at Von Krahl on March 8 with Stóra Magnara, and at Guitar Hunt on March 16. Visit www.therudegrooves. com or Facebook (facebook.com/ therudegrooves). ■

March Best Bets ■ Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn Map Code A2 March 3 - BASS NIGHT: KEEP PUSHIN ', NURTURED BEATZ & QUALITY BEATS LONDON April 14 - SUPERSKANK PRESENTS: BROKEN FINGAZ BDAY BASH! ■ Von Krahl Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1 March 8 - LADIES' NIGHT with The Rude Grooves and Stóra Magnara March 30/31 - TALLINN MUSIC WEEK 2012: Rabarock presents (two floors) ■ Rock Cafe Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn Map Code B3 March 3 - Ultima Thule 25 & Tõnis Mägi March 8 - Women’s Day Concert with Ott Lepland, Uku Suviste March 17 - Singer-Vinger album presentation March 23 - Jägermeister Rock League ■ Cafe Amigo Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn Map Code B2 March 10 - Live Music: Supernova March 22 - Live music: R.A.T.T.

From the left: bassist Mike Both, drummer Aimar Sepp, and guitarist Kristjan Pärkson

■ Rockstars Tatari 6, Tallin Map Code B2 March 10 - Metallica Tribute Band

culture this&that/diverse

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 2

T Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts: Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn, www.sakusuurhall.ee

17.3 23.3

17 19

10.3 17.3 31.3–1.4

30.3 8.4

19 17

21.4

Juri Antonov Circus Performance: Monkeys Simple Session 2012, Skateboarding Competition Michael Bublé

Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal) Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3 8.3

20.3

22.3

30.3

Women’s Day Concert. BASIX Vocal Ensemble (Denmark) Elite Concerts VII. Piano Quartet and Quintet Estonian Music Days. Esbjerg Ensemble J.S. Bach. "Johann’s Passion"

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus) Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2 31.3

and Quintet Koorimoos Estonian Music Days. Esbjerg Ensemble Brass Quintet Estica Tartu Academic Men’s Choir 100

Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 31.3

J.S. Bach. " Johann’s Passion "

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF) www.plmf.ee:

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja)

30.3

Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee

31.3

10.3

14.3 22.3 23.3 31.3

19 19 19 19

Women’s Day Concert. BASIX Vocal Ensemble (Denmark) Words and Music: Russia Performance: Tour de Farce Valeria. Jubilee Concert Aleksandr Morozov and the Forum Ensemble

Hingemuusika, Artimus Ensemble String Trio, Koigi Manor 13.30 Tallinn Music Week Classical Artists Showcase, Estonia Concert Hall, Tallinn

Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00. Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee 19 19

Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

15.3 17.3 5.4

19 21 20

9.3

29.3

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie

Women’s Day Concert. BASIX Vocal Ensemble (Denmark) Brass Quintet Estica

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss)

Rock Cafe 7.3 8.3

Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Insingizi Women’s Day Concert: Ott Lepland, Uku Suviste Surganova and Orchestra (RUS) Singer-Vingeri Album Premier Example (UK)

(Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik)

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn)

Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee

Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Brass Quintet Estica

Jaani Church (Jaani kirik) Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J2 6.4

Good Friday Concert. Stabat Materr

KUMU art museum.

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja) Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1 6.3

7.3

13.3

Ott Leplandi and Uku Suviste Women’s Day Concert Women’s Day Concert. BASIX Vocal Ensemble (Denmark) Elite Concerts VII. Piano Quartet

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Festivals:

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum)

11.–18.3 Youth Music Festival MUUSIKAMOOS vol.9 (More info: www.parnukontsert.ee) 11.3 16 "Lumekuninganna" family musical, Pärnu Concert Hall 12.3 13 "Bach visits Handel", Pärnu Town Hall 16.3 18 "Muusa puudutus", Pärnu Concert Hall 21.30"MeTaL-O-PHoNe"(France), Endla Theatre Café, Pärnu 17.3 11 Workrooms Maarja-Magdaleena Gildi Hall, Pärnu 16.3 Koorimoos, Pärnu Concert Hall 18.3 18 Rhythm & Mooz, Endla Theatre, Pärnu

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

19.–24.3 Estonian Music Days (More info: www.helilooja.ee) 19.3 18 Opening Concert, Estonian Theatre and Music Academy, Tallinn (FREE) 20.3 14 Märt-Matis Lille Talkshow, Kanuti Gildi Hall, Tallinn (FREE) 19.30 Audio-visual Music, Kanuti Gildi Hall, Tallinn 21.3 16 EMTA Student Composer’s Concert, EMTA Opera Studio, Tallinn (FREE) 22.3 19 Esbjerg Ensemble (Denmark), Dirigent Kaisa Roose, Estonia Concert Hall, Tallinn 22 Heinavankri öö (Hay Wagon Night), Niguliste Museum Concert Hall, Tallinn 23.3 19 Bänd&Erso+EMP Awards Ceremony, Estonia Concert Hall, Tallinn 22 Estonian Music Night, F-Hoone, Tallinn 24.3 17 Piano Concert, Mustpeade Maja (House of the Blackheads), Tallinn 29.–31.3 Tallinn Music Week (More info: www.tallinnmusicweek.ee)

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design(Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss)

What is International Women’s Day? • • • •

Originally named International Working Women’s Day and it was. celebrated as a socialist political holiday. Celebrated each year on March 8. It is customary to give women flowers and small gifts. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of Women’s Day.

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4 Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012 Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08. Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

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www traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

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Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/Superstar (M–F) 08.00–11.00 Nordlandia (M–F)

11.00–13.00 Tallink Star/Superstar (M–F) 11.30–13.30 Tallink Star/Superstar (Sa, Su)

09.00–12.00 Nordlandia (Sa) 10.30–12.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

13.00–16.30 Baltic Princess

10.30–13.30 Nordlandia (Su)

14.00–16.00 Tallink Star/Superstar

11.30–14.00 Viking XPRS

16.00–19.15 Nordlandia (Su)

14.00–16.00 Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–19.00 Viking XPRS (Su)

(M–F) 14.30–16.30 Tallink Star/Superstar (Sa, Su)

The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port. It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passed through the port. For more information and timetables http:// soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

08.00–10.30 Viking XPRS

08.30–10.30 Tallink Star/Superstar (Sa, Su)

Getting to the Port

07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

16.30–20.00 Nordlandia (M–F) 17.30–19.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

Free Bus from the Port

17.30–20.45 Nordlandia (Sa)

17.30–19.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

18.00–20.30 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

18.30–22.00 Baltic Princess

21.00–23.00 Tallink Star/Superstar

20.00–22.30 Viking XPRS (Su)

00.30–06.40 Nordlandia (M)

20.15–23.30 Nordlandia (Su)

01.00–06.40 Nordlandia (Tu–F)

21.00–00.15 Nordlandia (M–F)

01.00–07.00 Nordlandia (Sa)

21.30–23.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

Useful Information

21.30–00.00 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0. ■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45. Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport. The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Copterline USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

Tallinn Train Station

Parking in Tallinn

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line

■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULE APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers. Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited.

See also www.tulli.fi Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS FOR PERSONS ARRIVING FROM OUTSIDE OF THE EU. PERSONS OVER THE AGE OF 18 MAY BRING: TOBACCO :

40 cigarettes 100 cigarillos 50 cigars 50 g smoking tobacco or 50 g chewing tobacco

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase. Shopping malls are equipped with automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

ALCOHOL Wine 4 L (and sparkling wine) Beer 16 L 2 L of alcohol under 22% alc/vol or 1 L alcohol above 22% alc/vol.

■ Tallinn Taxis

Up to 10 L of petrol may be brought into Estonia by car.

■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

TAX-FREE

Visitors from outside the EU may be eligible for a tax refund under the Tax Refund Scheme. Purchases exceeding 38,35€ including VAT are eligible for a tax refund with proof of purchase document obtained at the time of purchase to be presented at the airport. Further information can be found in stores bearing the tax-free symbol.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. ■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates that the standard rate. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

LindaLine

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ City Center 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

standing rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured. Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does GFIK&?89FLI not offer a receipt then the passenger KiX`e JkXk`fe is not obliged to pay. If you feel that I8EE8Dv< the price was unreasonable then 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8 DEK% make note of the car registration FC; JHL8I< number, date of journey and the M`il _fk\cc KFNE name of the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIEL DEK%

Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000

K8IKL DEK% AL?B<EK8C@

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies. Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)

www first aid…esmaabi

TALLINN

W H AT W H E R E W H E N

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The workday preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLEN Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to Sweden/England: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666. When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed. In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green meaning that they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

www Tallinn and Estonia

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Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Stina Kase

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. ■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

Arena 3

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Hollywood Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Inferno Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Panoraam Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud). Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town. Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower. Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum). Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms. Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4. Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room. Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56. Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011. Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum). Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

Parlament Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

Protest

Rock Café Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants The following establishments show football as well as other sports. Clayhills, Pikk 13. Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325. Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63. Molly Malone’s, Mündi 2. Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4. The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19. Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum). Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2. Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. Energia ja füüsika imesid tutvustav koht.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem). Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1. Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1. A museum about the world of pup-

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Tallinn Museums

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Privé

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Bonbon

Tallinn Nightlife

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Amigo

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam). Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum). Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum). A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4. Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art. Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1. Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display. Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1. Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1853 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

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HAAPSALU ÂŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 175 IKLA 347 288 KOIDULA MAAKONNAD 84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE HARJUMAA IDALĂ&#x201E;Ă&#x201E;NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ&#x201E;RDLA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ&#x201E;RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PĂ&#x201E;RNU JĂ&#x2022;GEVAMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE PĂ&#x201E;RNUMAA 9 180 356 90 163 47 321VILJANDIMAA 114 208 ROHUKĂ&#x153;LA SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN PĂ&#x2022;LVAMAA 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VALGAMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI VĂ&#x2022;RUMAA 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ&#x2022;RU

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Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â&#x201A;Ź. www.citytour.ee

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Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

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AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2â&#x201A;Ź. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

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