INDA, EDANA Collaborate Quality Fabric: 3D Printed Bra Hemp Fiber Summit
INDA, EDANA Collaborate Quality Fabric: 3D Printed Bra Hemp Fiber Summit
2025 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry
Charles Heilig
Cotton Incorporated’s
William Kimbrell
• Recycling methods, raw materials alternatives, and circular economy
• Biobased / hybrid fibers and naturalsynthetic blends
• Innovations in coatings, additives, andadhesives
• Enzyme technology and the biodegradation processes
• Research Posters Back by popular demand!
• Tabletop Exhibits New for 2025! Limited availability
• Exclusive tour of The Nonwovens Institute
• Pre-conference networking
ON THE COVER:
Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc. recently extended its fiber science know-how to engineer Fortisyn™. Fabrics made using this durable and abrasion-resistant yarn — which is available in a virgin nylon 6,6 or recycled REPREVE® nylon 6 version — are suitable for military uniforms and tactical applications, and also are Berry Amendment compliant. Courtesy of REPREVE®
10 2025 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry
Outgoing NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig delivered the “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 21st annual meeting.
13 NCTO Steps Up To The Plate
Recently the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) seized the moment during a turbulent time for U.S. textiles.
58 A New Gear Oil: Sustainability In Textile Production
Lubricants can be a powerful resource when it comes to energy savings in textile manufacturing operations.
Fiber World
16 William Kimbrell: Strategic Leadership In Cotton
Cotton Incorporated’s new president and CEO intends to reinforce the organization’s role as a trusted partner and industry leader.
21 Hemp: Learn, See, Network
The inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit is designed to foster collaboration across the U.S. hemp fiber industry.
22 Hemp’s American Arrival: An Unexpected Ally
Will uncertainty in global supply chains created by tariffs create opportunities for hemp in the textile industry?
24 Textile Recycling Roundup 2025
Investments point to a trend that is attracting interest that fits well with textiles burgeoning sustainability mindset
28 Executive Forum: Roland Zimmer
Zimmer America Recycling Solutions has found a foothold providing recycling equipment focused on PET.
31 Fortisyn™: Engineered Durability For Abrasion Resistance UNIFI® is growing its stable of branded fibers.
32 SYFA Conference Showcases Innovation, Advocacy In Textiles
The SYFA hosted a lively spring conference following its third annual fundraiser golf tournament.
POSTMASTERsend address changes to: Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068. Send Canadian address changes to: Textile World, c/o The Mail Group, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, Canada. Customer #7007632 Publications Agreement #40612608.
APublication
Nonwovens/Technical Textiles
34 INDA, EDANA Joining Forces In Global Nonwovens
TW recently spoke to INDA’s Tony Fragnito and EDANA’s Murat Dogru about the Global Nonwoven Alliance.
38 IDEA® & FiltXPO™ 2025:Fostered Meetings, Business Development
The recent collocated IDEA and FiltXPO gathered the best and the brightest in the nonwovens and filtration industries in Miami Beach.
40 Wipe To Win: WOW Represents Wipes Ecosystem
INDA’s 18th World of Wipes® International Conference will take place in Columbus, Ohio.
41 JEC World 2025: The Future Of Composites
JEC World’s Festival of Composites offered participants an updated view of the industry’s global direction
44 Techtextil North America & Texprocess Americas 2025
The collocated events delivered a positive vibe despite tariffs and other economic concerns.
Dyeing,Printing & Finishing
46 Better Color For A Better World: e.dye® Solution Dyeing System
e.dye® offers a more sustainable alternative to traditional chemical dyeing while also improving color performance.
50 New Horizons For Monforts Partners In Pakistan
Monforts continues to gain significant repeat orders for its equipment from Pakistan’s major vertically-integrated textile manufacturers.
Knitting/Apparel
52 Outerknown: Minds Forever On The Sea
Outerknown partnered with Bureo to develop its Apex Evolution Trunks, transforming ocean waste into next-level surf apparel.
Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC, Home Textiles Sourcing NYC and Printsource offer the best in fabric, apparel, home textiles and design.
55 Fabrics, Yarns Center Stage In Shanghai
Collocated Spring edition textile expositions — Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo — hosted more than 4,000 exhibitors.
2025QuarterlyIssueII
TextileWorld.com
Founded 1868
Quality Fabric:
3D Printing Meets Sustainable Fashion
Read about how designer Neyla Coronel utilized biobased Balena.Filaflex to create a 3D printed, custom bra that adapts to the body.
NEXT ISSUE: Executive Forum Nonwovens Focus Spinning Technology
EDITOR IN CHIEF James M. Borneman
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Rachael S. Davis
TECHNICAL EDITORS Dr. Lisa Parillo Chapman
Dr. Peter J. Hauser
Dr. Trevor J. Little
Dr. William Oxenham
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi
Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam
Dr. Andre West
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim Kaufmann
INTERNET CONTENT EDITOR Rachael S. Davis
CIRCULATION MANAGER Julie K. Brown-Davis
ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Denise Buchalter
ART & PRODUCTION MANAGER Julie K. Brown-Davis
OWNER/PUBLISHER James M. Borneman
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From
Editor The U.S.Textiles
Charting A Course
TTurbulent times call for increased communication and open dialogue among colleagues and competitors and,luckily enough,Techtextil North America (TTNA) 2025 in Atlanta offered just that.
Sharing the show floor with exhibitors and visitors from a broad array of industry sectors, from various parts of the country — and world — presented a chance to get up-close with the industry and hear what was affecting them, their businesses and their view of the future.
By and large,taking place during sweeping changes in U.S.tariffs,a ferociously fast news cycle,and economic implications that welcomed broad speculation,TTNA was perfectly timed.
Two themes seemed to emerge — one for machinery and technology companies,and one for textile manufacturers.
Nothing was concrete,but machinery companies seemed frustrated that the current business climate had stalled capital equipment investments.Not all,but many had projects technically approved and ready to go,but manufacturershave been hesitant to pull the trigger. Some suppliers said they had been sidelined for more than a year awaiting the final go ahead.
Even so,there was an optimism regarding interest in new technology and upgrading,with some companies quietly sharing good news.
Many of the manufacturers commented that business was very strong.One even said that a lack of packing materials prevented a shipment of goods the company had rushed to produce.
But even with that good news,there was serious confusion about what the future holds. Was this just a front-end loading of orders to get ahead of the chaos that may ensue? Was this the proverbial devil-you-know reaction to locking in orders and inventory to smooth out future supply chain bumps?
This was simply not a typical show,or the typical TTNA atmosphere.It was interesting to see the way international trade questions were
affecting people differently.The USMCAfocused supply chain participants were uneasy,but optimistic that business would continue as trade issues settle down.Many of the European machinery producers were really scratching their heads — wondering about serious cost increases to supply U.S.manufactures if tariffs take hold and are here to stay.
For an industry full of participants who usually — rightly or wrongly — have a strong awareness of how their businesses are performing and a confident view of their the future — all bets were off.
Beyond tariffs,the possibility of a tax bill that would allow for immediate expensing of research and development,full depreciation of capital equipment expenses,and other business friendly components was a positive, but lingering consideration in the mix.
Beyond that,there were exhibitors who were in gear,moving forward,with seemingly no time to be sidetracked by navel gazing.
It was kind of refreshing,but there were people at the show who really felt like this was just another chapter.They have been kicked around,hung out to dry,and counted among the dead before and it really didn’t matter — they are survivors.But trying to figure out the issues while they are in motion is like trying to putt a golf ball in a tornado.“Just tell me the rules when you figure them out,and I’ll chart a course to navigate those waters,”someone said.
So,without any half-baked predictions or tired if-then scenarios,the survivors have a point.Set the rules,and U.S.Textiles will chart a course — but there’s still not much time for putting.
James M. Borneman jborneman@TextileWorld.com
Barnet Europe Breaks Ground On New Headquarters In Germany
Barnet Europe,a Spartanburg,S.C.-based Barnet group company,has begun construction on its new European headquarters in Eschweiler,Germany.
The 21,000-square-meter facility — housing office, production and warehouse space — is expected to open in early 2026.
“This sustainably designed new building will replace our existing sites in Aachen and Raeren (Belgium),significantly increasing the efficiency of our production and logistics processes while laying a strong foundation for expanding our product portfolio,”said Bernd Lenzen,managing director of Barnet Europe.“The new site is designed with growth in mind and will enable us to create additional jobs.In a first phase, we will relocate operations
with around 100 employees,offering them a modern,future-oriented work environment.”
Champion Thread Acquires Carolina Sales Thread
Champion Thread Company (CTC),Gastonia, N.C.,has acquired Carolina Sales Thread Inc.,a regional distributor serving the needle trades.The acquisition aligns with CTC’s strategic growth plan and expands its customer base.
“This is a significant step in our strategic growth plan that will allow us to deliver greater value to all current and future customers,”said CTC President and CEO Matt Poovey.“Former Carolina Sales customers will significantly benefit from our responsive U.S.-based manufacturing,broad product range,and enhanced service capabilities.”
Retiring Carolina Sales Owner David Hall stated:
Textiles Monterey Group Acquires Patrick Yarns, Launches FilSpec USA
Sherbrooke,Quebecbased Textiles Monterey Group has acquired Patrick Yarns from the Coats Group and will integrate the Kings Mountain, N.C.facility into its operations under the new name FilSpec USA.The acquisition expands the company’s North American footprint and supports its commitment to high-quality specialty spun yarns for technical applications across North America and
“Our shared commitment to customer service and the USA textile industry makes this a perfect fit.It will positively impact our customers and help ensure their continued success.”
Renaissance Fiber Secures Investment To Expand Hemp Fiber Refining In North Carolina
Renaissance Fiber (RF), Winston-Salem,N.C.,has received a $75,000 investment from Equilibrium Impact Ventures to support the launch of its hemp fiber refining facility in Mocksville,N.C.The funding will enable RF to scale its clean,proprietary process for “cottonizing” U.S.-grown hemp,making it compatible with existing textile machinery and enhancing fiber performance.The project aims to build a transparent,sustainable farm-to-fabric supply chain while creating new opportunities for U.S.
Europe.FilSpec USA will work in tandem with the company’s Sherbrooke facility,reinforcing its production capabilities.
“We are thrilled to welcome FilSpec USA to our family,”said Gilles Desmarais,president of Textiles Monterey Group. “This strategic growth enhances our ability to serve our customers with innovative solutions and premium yarn products across multiple markets.”
farmers and manufacturers.
“This investment from Equilibrium ImpactVentures is crucial for launching the initial phase of our infrastructure buildout in Mocksville,”said Daniel Yohannes,CEO and cofounder of Renaissance Fiber.“For the first time,we can scale our process to integrate degummed hemp as a versatile fiber into U.S. and global textile production.By building this advanced refining capacity here in North Carolina, we are not just enabling sustainable,domestic fiber production — we are creating vital new opportunities for American farmers and manufacturers to lead the global shift towards eco-friendly textiles.”
Hamilton International Forms Strategic Partnership With Warp Development
Atlanta-based Hamilton International has announced a strategic
Barnet Europe recently broke ground on a new Germany-based headquarters location.
equity investment in Monroe,N.C.-based Warp Development,forming an equal partnership to accelerate growth,and enhance capabilities and customer value.Chad Clay will remain CEO of Warp Development,ensuring leadership continuity as the company expands.
“This partnership is rooted in a shared commitment to innovation,operational excellence and customer success,”said Art Hamilton,president and CEO of Hamilton International.“… investing in Chad and his team is an investment in the future of our industry.”
Warp Development gains access to expanded resources through the partnership.“Partnering with Hamilton gives us the
Culp Finalizes Sale Of Quebec Facility
Culp Inc.,High Point, N.C.,has completed the sale of its mattress fabric manufacturing facility in Quebec marking the final step in a restructuring plan announced one year ago.
The C$8.6 million ($6.2 million) sale includes C$2.0 million received at closing,with the balance to be paid over the next six to 12 months.Net proceeds of between C$3-3.5 million will be used to reduce debt and improve liquidity.
“Our ability to reshape the cost structure of our mattress fabric business and complete the final step of selling our facility in Canada within a year is a testament to [our team’s] focus and dedication,”said Iv Culp,president and CEO. “Exiting the facility also allows us to avoid monthly carrying costs… and further strengthen our balance sheet and liquidity.”
Rieter to Acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon
operational and strategic support we need to expand faster and serve our customers even better,”Clay noted.
The collaboration aims to deliver enhanced responsiveness,broader service offerings,and a more streamlined supply chain for customers.
Rieter has signed an agreement to acquire Barmag from Switzerlandbased OC Oerlikon for 713 million Swiss francs ($872 million),aiming to become a global leader in both natural and manmade fiber processing. Barmag provides filament spinning systems,texturing machines,bulked continuous filament systems,staple fiber spinning and nonwoven solutions through its Oerlikon Barmag,Oerlikon Neumag
Bondcote Acquires Graniteville Specialty Fabrics
Bondcote Performance Textiles (BPT),a subsidiary of XFS Global LLC,has acquired Graniteville Specialty Fabrics (GSF),an innovator in high-performance coated textiles.The move strengthens BPT’s role in the U.S.defense and industrial textile markets while expanding its capabilities and customer partnerships.GSF will continue operating from its Graniteville,S.C.,facility, with its team and product lines integrating into BPT.
and Oerlikon Nonwoven brands.
The acquisition adds filament and nonwoven technologies to Rieter’s short-staple fiber portfolio and is expected to diversify markets,enhance digitalization,and strengthen Rieter’s presence in AsiaPacific.
“We are very proud to welcome Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven to Rieter,”said CEO Thomas Oetterli.“We are convinced that this combination will form a market leader in the textile industry,which will create value for our shareholders,customer and employees.”
Barmag CEO Georg Stausberg added: “We will benefit from each other as textile companies from market understanding, technology expertise and complementary offering.”
The transaction is expected to close in Q4
“This acquisition is more than combining product lines — it strengthens our shared future as a trusted partner to the defense and industrial textile markets,”said Jacob Furbee,CEO of XFS Global and BPT.
“We are proud of our 70-year legacy,and the Graniteville Specialty Fabrics team is excited about our future as part of Bondcote Performance Textiles,”added Doug Johnson,COO,GSF.
2025,pending regulatory approval.
Levi Strauss To Sell Dockers®Brand To Authentic Brands Group
Levi Strauss & Co. (LS&Co.) has entered into a definitive agreement to sell its Dockers® brand to Authentic Brands Group for an initial value of $311 million,with the potential to increase to $391 million through an earnout tied to future performance.The move supports LS&Co.’s focus on its direct-to-consumer strategy and investment in denim and women’s categories.
“The Dockers transaction further aligns our portfolio with our strategic priorities,focusing on our direct-to-consumer (DTC) first approach,growing our international presence and investing in opportunities across women’s and denim lifestyle,”said Michelle
Iv Culp, president and CEO, Culp Inc.
Gass,president and CEO of LS&Co.The deal is expected to close in stages between July 2025 and January 2026.
Authentic plans to grow the brand,with Founder,Chairman and CEO Jamie Salter noting, “Dockers is a natural fit for the Authentic model.”
BELLA+CANVAS, Stakes Manufacturing Collaborate, Support U.S.-Based Supply Chains
Los Angeles-based BELLA+CANVAS and Cleveland-based Stakes Manufacturing have formed a strategic partnership to offer domestic and near-shore supply chain solutions for global brands and major retailers.The collaboration comes as shifting trade policies and tariffs push companies to reconsider offshore production.BELLA+CANVAS offers premium apparel manufacturing,while Stakes delivers on-demand printing and fulfillment. The partnership will prioritize speed,quality,sustainability,cost efficiency and U.S.job creation.
“Our goal is to support the evolving global landscape and help our partners navigate the challenges stemming from tariffs,while also unlocking new opportunities to optimize for a more balanced and resilient supply chain”said Stakes Manu-
facturing Co-Founder Jed Seifert.
“Our partnership with Stakes enables retailquality digital printing at scale,empowering brands to stay competitive and nimble in today’s volatile global market”added Megan Spire,vice president of BELLA+CANVAS.
GenuTrace Offers
Forensic Traceability Solutions
GenuTrace LLC,Brightwaters,N.Y.,has officially launched to provide science-based traceability solutions that verify product origin,protect brands, and ensure supply chain transparency.
Founded by MeiLin Wan,formerly an executive with Applied DNA Sciences,GenuTrace combines stable isotope analysis,chemical tracers,and material fingerprinting using blockchain,with digital product passports and AI-powered mapping to help companies meet global regulations.The company’s core services include origin verification, full supply chain traceability,and strategic communication support.
“At GenuTrace,we ask one powerful question: If you claim it,can you prove it? Paper trails aren’t enough,”Wan said.“We help brands back their claims with science — and build real transparency from farm to finished product.” TW
Outgoing NCTO Chairman Charles Heilig outlined the U.S. textile industry’s major challenges and achievements last year during his “State of the U.S. Textile Industry” address during NCTO’s 21st annual meeting in Washington.
By Charles Heilig
2025 State Of The U.S. Textile Industry
AAs we all know, the last few years have been challenging, both within our businesses and here in Washington. I would like to provide an overview of some of the major issues our industry faced as well as the progress we made, and achievements accomplished last year.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) represents the full spectrum of the U.S. textile industry — a production chain that employs 471,000 workers nationwide and produces $64 billion in output annually. Our industry is a key contributor to our national defense and supplies over 8,000 products a year to the military. It is also a leading hightech innovator supplying cuttingedge solutions and end products in diverse fields such as heart valves and stents to aircraft components and advanced body armor.
Our industry’s resilience and innovation is unparalleled and strong, despite economic and trade headwinds that have impacted our sector and our customers.
The breadth of challenges we face every day is astonishing — economic downturns, predatory trade practices, such as the use of forced labor in supply chains, ill-conceived trade policies, inadequate customs enforcement of trade fraud, post-pandemic inventory
related issues, freight and logistics challenges, and race-to-the-bottom business models that — all combined — are suppressing growth and investment, leading to a persistent and severe downturn in business.
There is no doubt we have experienced a very challenging three-yearcycle and our domestic production has been harmed as a result.
With all that in mind, I am reminded of a comment Kennesaw State University’s top economist Roger Tutterow said at a past NCTO meeting.
I’m paraphrasing here but he noted: “A market disruption like this takes years to rebalance,” and that is what we are all experiencing.
Recognizing that we are in a prolonged market disruption, the challenge we now face is to effectively respond not only with improvements to our business models, but also in the policy arena to ensure we will rebound and continue to expand as an industry.
To confront these challenges, NCTO and industry leaders launched an aggressive lobbying campaign over the past year to raise awareness about the myriad trade policies impacting the industry and the importance of our sector to the economy.
I can’t stress how important and invaluable NCTO is to each of our
members individually and to the industry as a whole. It is our collective voice where we make a meaningful difference for companies and employees.
And our voices are being heard at the highest levels of the administration and on Capitol Hill.
Cabinet secretaries and members of Congress elevated the textile industry’s importance to the economy and national defense base at congressional hearings, conferences, in the press and in countless letters — all due to our diligent and effective work through executive fly-ins, high-level meetings, policy analysis, letters and press engagement throughout the year.
Before highlighting NCTO’s policy wins in 2024, I want to quickly share a “by the numbers” recap of the key data points that highlight our industry’s resilience and staying power.
By The Numbers
Despite the economic downturn and unfair trade practices impacting the industry in 2024, our metrics remained stable or registered only slight declines, with the exception of employment in the cotton and wool sectors. This again underscores the industry’s ability to adapt during challenging times and remain viable even while registering painful losses.
Charles Heilig
•In 2024, the value of U.S. manmade fiber, textile and apparel shipments totaled an estimated $63.9 billion compared with $64.8 billion in 2023.1
Here are additional key industry facts:
•U.S. exports of fibers, textiles and apparel were $28 billion in 2024 compared with $29.7 billion in 2023.2
•The United States remains the second largest individual country exporter of textile products in the world.
•The U.S. textile and apparel industry invested $3 billion in new plants and equipment in 2022, which is the last year data was available for this figure.3
The bottom line is many key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while some weakened due to the economic and trade headwinds I mentioned a few moments ago.
Policy Issues
Now I would like to highlight a few accomplishments the NCTO staff achieved during the year.
NCTO actively promoted policies to expand the U.S. textile industry at home and in key overseas markets, such as the Western Hemisphere — which accounts for 70 percent of U.S. yarn and fabric exports and supports more than 2.6 million workers throughout this hemisphere —
including efforts to preserve yarnforward rules on origin and broaden export opportunities.
Customs Enforcement
In the area of customs enforcement, NCTO and industry leaders met with Department of Homeland Security (DHS) Secretary Alejandro Mayoras in early January 2024 to highlight industry challenges and make recommendations for an aggressive enforcement plan. We stressed the prioritization of robust enforcement of free trade agreement rules of origin, the need to close the de minimis loophole, and fully enforce the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA).
Following our direct engagement and input, Secretary Mayorkas unveiled a textile enforcement plan in early April, which marked a critical step to combat import fraud and circumvention of free trade agreement rules and trade laws. Secretary Mayorkas also participated in a fireside chat with NCTO’s president and CEO Kim Glas at our Annual Meeting last year.
During the year, NCTO remained actively engaged with DHS and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) leadership as the plan was put into action, providing tips to investigators; highlighting increased penalties and onsite verifications, which increased from 38 in FY22 to 136 in FY24; and amplifying the
VALUE OF SHIPMENTS
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories, and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM), value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522. 2021 data used to estimate 2024 NAICS 32522 figure.
expansion of the UFLPA violator’s entities list, which grew from 33 to 144 companies.
In addition, NCTO members attended the opening of a new isotopic testing facility at the port of Savannah in September which will help the agency in its UFLPA enforcement. The agency has purchased new equipment and is in the process of ramping up this important testing capability to detect banned cotton grown in the Xinjiang province.
De Minimis
In perhaps one of the most targeted and coordinated efforts undertaken by NCTO, industry leaders executed a sweeping and effective lobbying campaign on Capitol Hill and with the administration to press for de minimis reform to permanently close the trade loophole for all countries.
I cannot stress enough how important this engagement is to the industry. It involved fly-ins, letters, and meetings with members of Congress and key staff on relevant congressional committees — both on the Hill and in districts. It required detailed policy analysis, phone calls and countless emails to educate and raise awareness about the adverse
CAPITAL INVESTMENT
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315.
impact this ill-conceived provision in U.S. trade law has had on our industry and manufacturing as a whole.
In addition, NCTO spearheaded the formation of the Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole, a broad alliance including families of victims of fentanyl fatalities and nonprofit organizations, domestic law enforcement associations, manufacturers and business associations.
Coalition members participated in roundtables and press conferences with reform champions like Congressman Earl Blumenauer and Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro.
They lobbied lawmakers on the Hill and sent letters to key policymakers — all in a coordinated and unified effort to close this dangerous loophole.
NCTO and the coalition are constantly pressing President Trump and his administration to reinstate his proposed ban on de minimis imports from China and to take additional action to close the harmful de minimis loophole for all countries permanently.
NCTO is also urgently working to pass a new Miscellaneous Tariff bill with immediate and full retroactivity.
And the organization continues to press for the expansion of the Berry Amendment, after securing key provisions in the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) which Congress passed late last year. The NDAA supports the
Berry Amendment, which requires the Department of Defense to purchase 100 percent U.S. made textiles and clothing. The legislation includes two new key provisions important to the domestic textile industry.
Another key priority is advocating for full enforcement of the Make PPE in America Act, which recently led to the award of two government contracts to NCTO member companies.
Additionally, NCTO continues to amplify support for the Section 301 case against China’s intellectual property abuses and pressing for a dramatic increase in tariffs on finished textile and apparel imports from China.
And NCTO is working diligently to protect qualifying trade within our free trade agreements (FTAs).
While we don’t have time to delve into all these important issues, I do want to emphasize that NCTO remains highly engaged on every policy matter that affects the U.S. textile industry with the intent of shaping policies that directly benefit U.S. textile investment, production and employment.
Please also note that industry leadership and involvement is of paramount importance. From contributions to NCTO’s Textile PAC to arranging congressional visits, the industry makes a difference every day in raising awareness about our important contribution to local and state economies and the U.S. economy overall.
Conclusion
Our industry is experiencing historic challenges that have tested our resolve, and we will continue to see headwinds in the year ahead.
But I know the true resilient nature of our industry and I’ve seen how it has sustained a foothold as a major contributor to the U.S. economy through historic downturns. We will again weather the storm and rebound from this current business cycle, possibly even later this year. There are many reasons I am optimistic about the industry’s future.
I know that NCTO and industry
leaders will be at the forefront of advocacy on our behalf and continue to engage with members of Congress and the administration to enact policies that bolster and expand the industry, ranging from targeted tariffs to tax reform and expanded government procurement of Americanmade products. And I know our organization and industry will continue to work in conjunction with our Western Hemisphere trading partners to thwart challenges to our free trade agreement rules, focus on our export markets and sustain and expand our coproduction chain.
In addition, we will continue pressing for stepped-up enforcement and penalties against rampant illegal trade practices and fraud.
In 2025, we look forward to continuing our engagement with Congress and the new administration to secure additional policy achievements and ensure a vibrant future for this industry. TW
References:
1 U.S. Census Bureau, Manufacturers’ Shipments, Inventories, and Orders (M3) Survey, and Annual Survey of Manufacturers (ASM), value of shipments for NAICS 313, 314, 315 & 32522. 2021 data used to estimate 2023 NAICS 32522 figure.
2 U.S. Department of Commerce data for Export Group 0: Textiles and Apparel.
3 U.S. Census Bureau, Annual Capital Expenditures Survey (ACES), NAICS 313, 314 & 315.
Editor’s Notes: Information contained in the speech was current as of NCTO’s annual meeting. Charles Heilig is president of Gastonia, N.C.-based Parkdale Mills. He served as the 2024 NCTO chairman. At the 2025 annual NCTO meeting in Washington, Chuck Hall, global president and CEO of Spartanburg, S.C.based Barnet, succeeded Heilig as NCTO chairman; and Amy Bircher-Bruyn, president and CEO of Brooklyn, Ohio-based MMI Textiles, was elected vice chairman. The North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) is the standard used by Federal statistical agencies in classifying business establishments for the purpose of collecting, analyzing, and publishing statistical data related to the U.S. business economy. NAICS Subsector 313 covers Textile Mills, sub-sector 314 covers Textile Product Mills and subsector 315 covers Apparel.
NCTOPresident and CEOKim Glas with a delegation of Guatemalan leaders.
Trade Associations serve many roles, and recently the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) seized the moment in a turbulent time for U.S. textiles.
TW Special Report
A Trade Association In Action: NCTO Steps Up To The Plate
IIn the United States, trade associations play a noteworthy role in supporting industries, business and professionals through advocacy; providing a networking community; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
This is a tall order for any association, but even more so for those in textiles considering the depth and breadth of the segmented U.S. industry.
Recently, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) effectively seized the moment during a turbulent time, addressing a longterm international trade loophole affecting the industry and responding to fast-moving trade policy changes that carry significant weight on the survival and prosperity of U.S. textiles.
The National Council Of Textile Organizations
Trade associations have been an enduring feature of the U.S. textile industry throughout history, often with geographic or industry-sector focused missions.
Broad associations, that bridge sectors and geography, have been less prevalent and successful, but have a well-storied past that could fill volumes.
Today, NCTO’s identity stands in: “… representing the entire spectrum of the textile sector. From fibers to finished products, from machinery manufacturers to power suppliers, NCTO is the voice of the U.S. textile industry.”
It does so with five separate councils — Fiber; Yarn; Fabric; Finished
Textile and Apparel; and Industry Support, which comprises distributors, converters, dyers, printers and finishers, as well as suppliers of products and services. Each council has a board for representation. This structure, according to the NCTO, is to “ensure a broad representation of the supply chain.”
De Mini — What?
Very few Americans including very few members of the textile industry, had ever heard the phrase “de minimis,” five years ago, let alone had any understanding of its implications on international trade or the health of U.S. textiles.
Today, the Latin phrase and its impact on the textile industry and consumers is well documented. Without getting in the weeds, the dictionary states, de minimis means “of minimal things” or “so small as to be disregarded.” In legal and business contexts, it refers to something insignificant or negligible, often to the point that it’s not worth addressing or taking legal action.
In terms of NCTO’s interest, the de minimis trade exemption was a customs accommodation for small packages, of little value — in this case $800 or less per day, per person — shipped internationally into the United States under Section 321 of the Tariff Act of 1930.
In short, an individual could receive a bottle of Scotch from an aunt living in Scotland at Christmas without clearing customs and paying duty.
Unfortunately, that accommodation became a loophole, then expanded to a loophole-based model for ecommerce giants and mass marketers.
De Minimis Impact
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has a history of concern with de minimis shipments. “Both the volume and combined worth of lowvalue, or de minimis, shipments to the United States have risen significantly over the past ten years,” said then Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro N. Mayorkas in a January 2025 press release. “The exemption of these goods from duties or taxes has undermined American businesses and workers and flooded our ports of entry with foreign-made products, making CBP’s vital work screening these goods for security risks more difficult. The actions announced today to tighten this exemption will strengthen America’s economic and national security.”
The CBP press release also noted: “Over the last 10 years, the number of shipments entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption increased by more than 600 percent from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year (FY) 2015, to over 1 billion a year by FY 2023. During Fiscal Year 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion. This exponential increase has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.”
Building A Coalition
An effective way for trade associations to successfully advocate is to band together with like-minded groups to amplify the message at hand and broaden its impact by raising awareness and motivating legislative change.
In March of 2024, “The Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole” was launched. NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas stated at the time: “De minimis is not just a textile issue — it’s an issue impacting us all — which is why this broad, diverse coalition has been formed to amplify our collective voices in the fight to get immediate, substantial and consequential change,” commending several congressional champions of closing the loophole, including then Congressman Earl Blumenauer [D-Ore.], Congressman Neal Dunn [R-Fla.], Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro [D-Conn.], and then Congressman Dan Bishop [R-N.C].
Glas added: “Closing this loophole will simultaneously assist law enforcement battle the deadly fentanyl and broader illicit drug crisis while also assisting U.S. businesses to operate on a more level playing field with competitors overseas. We urge others in Congress and the Administration to support the effort and immediately close de minimis.”
By broadening the scope of support and illuminating the loophole’s impact, some 29 interested associations and organizations are
now behind the issue and advocating for reform.
Diverse groups including the American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations (AFL-CIO), National Association of Police Organizations, Families Against Fentanyl the Coalition for a Prosperous America, and even the United Steelworkers came together and made their voices heard.
A Significant Result
After much testimony and legislative processes, the most current activity on de minimis, as of TW ’s press time, was House passage of a budget reconciliation package which includes a provision that would permanently end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries by July 2027. The legislation next goes to the Senate, and NCTO and the coalition are pressing to keep the provision in the broader budget and tax bill.
Recently, U.S. Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) and Lindsey Graham (R-S.C.) introduced another strong proposal, the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act.
Glas commended the Senators “… for their leadership and support of this important bipartisan legislation that would codify and permanently end de minimis treatment for China immediately, while phasing out de minimis for all other countries after a four-month transition period. This bill, a companion to legislation in the
House, is the strongest and most comprehensive legislative solution to closing the destructive de minimis loophole once and for all. … The legislation will help level the playing field for the domestic textile industry, which has lost 28 textile plants over the past 22 months. We strongly support this legislation and look forward to working with Senators Whitehouse and Graham to advance it.”
Prior to the introduction of the act, President Donald J. Trump signed an Executive Order eliminating duty-free de minimis treatment for low-value imports from China and Hong Kong. While that order currently stands, it is in limbo and caught up in court cases challenging President Trump’s executive order and authority to impose broad-based tariffs on countries.
It is important to note that this order targets de minimis packages from China and Hong Kong which are packages utilizing the $800 loophole most often.
Trade Earthquake
At the 21st NCTO annual meeting held in Washington, Glas shared with the gathered attendees an account of the quick, effective engagement of the NCTO and key members to address a pending crisis that would cancel the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and, in her words, “lose half the industry overnight.”
Glas said: “There are certain industry leaders who are not in this room right now because they are writing a letter [to a Cabinet official who] asked our industry to write immediately to put on President Trump’s desk this afternoon.
“We had an urgent meeting with [the high-level administration official]
Left (left to right): Kim Glas, NCTO, Leib Oehmig, Glen Raven, Congressman David Rouzer (R-N.C) and Congressman Patrick McHenry (R-N.C.), who has since retired.
Right: Parkdale’s Anderson “Andy” Warlick at the podium during a press conference with Congresswoman Linda Sanchez (D-Calif.) who introduced the de minimis legislation that NCTOsupports.
this morning at 11 a.m. at the start of our annual meeting asking him to do everything possible to help our industry grow. Qualified trade, penalties to our Western Hemisphere are all on the line for our industry where we can literally lose 70 percent of our export market, which would hurt even our domestic manufacturers who have fully verticalized supply chain.
As she characterized the events, Glas said: “This is the velocity with which decision making is happening in Washington now. I urge all of you, if you don’t know your member of congress, make sure they get to know you, they come out to your plant. Congressman Hudson was in that meeting with us, from North Carolina, and it made all the difference.”
Glas also described a key meeting the prior day saying: “Yesterday, we had a meeting … and I’m sorry if I’m fired up, I’ve had 12 cups of coffee … but yesterday we were in the West Wing. And when you go to the West Wing, the aura of that just falls on you. It’s like no other place to have a meeting. You are sitting in the West Wing and the situation room is right down the hall … here we are.
“And people say we’re the little old textile industry. We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.
“I’m going to tell you those CEOs who were in that room carried the weight of all of you in this room, and the people not in this meeting today. It wasn’t about their individual company; it was about the textile team on the field and getting the yards we need to get a goal and to help prevent the worst losses imaginable.”
Situational awareness, being prepared for quick, effective engagement, and successfully making your associations’ case at a critical moment are all hallmarks of a trade association fulfilling its noteworthy role.
As Glas continued addressing industry leaders during the annual meeting, she said, “You’re carrying your team, meaning your workers at your facility, just as much as those CEOs were carrying the textile team, the entirety of it, in these meetings the last couple of days. So, in this period of time, we need to be more collaborative, more thoughtful, we need to let out our stress. We need to show appreciation for where we came from and where we are today.”
Regarding engagement Glas said, “It is the greatest honor for all of us to represent you. We are in this fight with you. But it takes all of us, including our CEO leaders. It’s one thing for me and others here on this stage to talk to congressional offices. It’s a totally different ball of wax because you are representing your facilities and are doing the work. You inspire us, and so I want to say my deep appreciation. And I also want to deeply thank the NCTO team. This has been an incredibly busy five years. This has been an incredibly busy five weeks!”
Results
As of TW’s press time, goods qualifying under the USMCA remain in force. USMCA-compliant imports from Mexico and Canada continue to enter the United States without tariffs, which is critical for the U.S. textile industry. Non-USMCA-compliant textiles from Mexico and Canada face a 25
percent tariff, incentivizing the use of U.S. manufactured components.
Regarding the Administration’s actions, Glas said: “The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $20 billion in two-way trade that spurs enormous textile investment and employment in the United States. Preserving duty free, qualified trade is absolutely critical to the U.S. textile industry and will provide incentives for more companies to onshore even greater production capacity, giving a boost to American textile manufacturers and their workers.”
A Trade Association In Action
Trade associations come in all shapes, sizes and flavors. But, in this moment, and with its long road to solve the de minimis loophole, the NCTO has largely fulfilled a noteworthy role in supporting the U.S. textile industry — its businesses and plants — through effective advocacy; providing a community and network; and presenting a unified, empowered group identity.
It bears repeating what Glas said. “We’re not the little old textile industry, we’re the mighty textile industry and we deserve to be in the West Wing.” TW
Right: NCTO’s Kim Glas during NCTO’s annual meeting in Washington.
Left: NCTOstaff and textile executives on Capitol Hill.
ExecutiveForum
Strategic Leadership In Cotton: William Kimbrell
Cotton Incorporated’s new President and CEO William Kimbrell intends to reinforce the organization’s role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader.
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CCary,N.C.-based Cotton Incorporated is a research and promotion not-for-profit charged with the mission to increase the demand for and profitability of cotton.The company — funded by U.S. growers of upland cotton and importers of cotton textile products —was founded in 1970 in response to the rise of synthetic textile fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share.
Recently,the organization announced the promotion of William Kimbrell to president and CEO. Kimbrell has been at Cotton Incorporated for 22 years holding a variety of positions.He has experience in fiber processing research,as well as roles in the Global Supply Chain Marketing division including technology management,and marketing initiatives with a concentration on Asia. Prior to the promotion, Kimbrell was executive vice president and COO.
Kimbrell graduated from NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles with a degree in Textile Management.He also holds an MBA with a
concentration in Supply Chain Management.
At the time of his appointment,Marvin Beyer,chairman of Cotton Incorporated’s Board of Directors,said:“William’s technical expertise along with his extensive global supply chain marketing background provides a deep understanding of the challenges and opportunities facing the cotton industry today.Under his guidance,Cotton Incorporated is well-positioned to continue driving innovation and promoting the many benefits of cotton,making it the fiber of choice in the global textile industry.”
William Kimbrell certainly brings a sharp perspective to his new role at Cotton Incorporated. Textile World recently sat down with Kimbrell to discuss the future of cotton and his leadership style,as well as topics impacting the global cotton supply chain including sustainability, research and trade.
TW : How do your 22 years at Cotton Incorporated and strong technical back-
ground influence your approach to guiding and leading the organization into its next chapter?
Kimbrell: My 22 years with the company have been incredibly rewarding. I have had the opportunity to work in so many aspects of the organization from fiber and research to marketing initiatives.It has really provided me with an end-to-end understanding of how Cotton Incorporated supports and drives the cotton and textile industry from fiber to finished product.This experience has equipped me to be both strategic and responsive to a market that is constantly evolving.More importantly, it has reinforced my belief in the critical role Cotton Incorporated plays as a trusted source of science, data,and market insight — helping ensure cotton remains the preferred fiber in a competitive market.
TW : What have been your top priorities during your first few months as CEO and is there anything that surprised you about the transition?
Kimbrell: As you are aware,the cotton and textile industry are facing challenging times across the entire supply chain –from farm to retail to consumer.My top priority has been to take a hard look at our program strategy and ensure we’re making the most of our resources — aligning every effort to directly support the industry’s core needs while positioning cotton for long-term growth.
One of my key priorities is to build on the strong foundation we’ve established,while recognizing rapidly changing market dynamics require fresh thinking and new strategies.Cotton Incorporated has consistently delivered meaningful research across both the agricultural and textile sectors.We’ve implemented effective marketing campaigns targeting both the supply chain and consumers.Our Seal of Cotton, has more than 50 years of history and substantial brand equity — demonstrating trust and quality while reinforcing our industry’s dedication to
William Kimbrell
excellence and innovation. Looking ahead,I’m focused on advancing this legacy through a new generation of initiatives that strengthen cotton’s position.
As for the transition itself,I’ve been around for a while,so no real surprises. I feel privileged to be stepping into this role at a time when there are such important opportunities ahead. I’m focused on working alongside our incredible team of experts to tackle these challenges head-on.
TW: What is your strategic vision for Cotton Incorporated over the next five years and how does it capitalize on cotton’s storied past?
Kimbrell: At Cotton Incorporated,we often talk about cotton as the preferred fiber,but my vision is to ensure that cotton is the fiber of choice.The fiber of choice at every stage of the supply chain,from the farm to brands and the consumer. Over the next five years, my strategic focus is to strengthen cotton’s position by elevating cotton as a natural fiber that delivers solutions.Solutions from product innovation to sustainability,performance, and compliance — all while driving economic viability for U.S.producers.
This strategy will be rooted in innovation from advancing farming practices and fiber development to expanding end-use applications.We will work to grow cotton’s presence in emerging markets and new product categories, reinforcing its role as a versatile,high-quality material that meets evolving
demands.While we honor cotton’s rich heritage,we’re focused on securing its future — making sure it remains the fiber of choice for generations to come.
Research & Development
TW : Cotton Incorporated is known for research and development initiatives throughout the cotton supply chain beginning in the field and ending with cotton products.Any new or interesting initiatives underway?
Kimbrell: Yes,we are continuously advancing research and development initiatives to enhance
technologies that do not compromise cotton’s inherent advantages,ensuring that cotton continues to meet the evolving needs of brands and consumers. The most recent technology we released was RESTech Cotton™.Cotton is often the natural choice for bedding because of its soft,breathable qualities.RESTech Cotton builds on those properties adding exceptional smoothness,quicker dry time,and greater abrasion resistance. More information on this finish and our suite of performance cotton technologies is available on our CottonWorks™ website.
highlight the versatility of cotton as a natural resource. Lastly,we are extending the impact of our Blue Jeans Go Green™ program,which promotes the recycling of denim into new products, further contributing to the circular economy and reducing waste in the textile industry.
TW : Are there areas of seed,agriculture,fiber, yarn,or fabric innovation that are most critical for the cotton industry over the next three to five years?
cotton’s performance, sustainability and market opportunities.A key focus is advancing cotton’s role in circularity,exploring innovative solutions like our cotton to sugar initiative,transforming textile cotton waste into glucose, and other end-of-life solutions like composting, and upcycling.These initiatives aim to further solidify cotton’s position as a renewable resource.
We are also committed to developing performance
CottonWorks also hosts a robust collection of digital fabric developments.We release new collections of knit and woven fabrics twice a year and these developments are a tremendous resource to the industry.
Beyond product,we’re exploring new applications for cottonseed oil and biochar,expanding their use in industries such as food,energy,and soil health.These efforts are aligned with our broader sustainability goals and
Kimbrell: Over the next three to five years,key innovations will be important for the cotton industry,particularly in agriculture,fiber, and across the supply chain.
On the agricultural side, advancements will focus on improving soil health, increasing water efficiency, and enhancing carbon sequestration,all of which contribute to producer profitability and the sustainabilityof cotton farming. Additionally,automation and emerging technologies,
Cotton Incorporated recently launched a new CottonWorks.com website.
such as“see and spray” systems,will play a significant role in optimizing cotton production.These technologies will help improve precision in farming,optimize input use efficiency,and further enhance cotton’s sustainability credentials.
Across the entire supply chain,it is essential that cotton meets and exceeds the performance,environmental,and compliance needs of brands and retailers and be positioned as a solution.
TW : Are there any emerging technologies or innovations that you believe have the potential to significantly transform the use of cotton in the textile industry over the next decade?
Kimbrell: The next decade holds great promise for cotton,with innovations in fiber quality and consistency,and performance-enhancing finishes, especially those derived from biobased materials, opening the door to new products.At the same time, low-impact processes are making more efficient use of water,energy and
chemistry which supports environmental goals and efficiencies.Advances in circularity,including upcycling and the exploration of new markets,will further solidify cotton’s role as a key sustainable material in the textile industry.
Cotton Marketing
TW : Cotton Incorporated was founded 55 years ago in response to the rise of synthetic fibers and their impact on cotton’s market share.How has the fiber landscape changed over the years and how do you see Cotton Incorporated’s role in today’s altered fiber marketplace?
Kimbrell: When Cotton Incorporated was founded in 1970,synthetic fibers like polyester were rapidly gaining ground,largely due to their low cost and ease of care.Cotton faced an urgent need to innovate, to promote its natural strengths,and to reclaim its relevance with consumers and manufacturers.Over the decades,the fiber marketplace has continued to evolve.Today,competition in the fiber market is even stronger and innovation cycles are faster and more complex than ever before.
However,the market needs have shifted.While product performance remains a key priority, today’s consumers and brands place increasing importance on compliance issues like sustainability, traceability,and circularity — areas where cotton has a tremendous opportunity to be the solution.Cotton Incorporated’s role remains critical in ensuring that cotton continues to lead as a high-quality,versatile, and compliant fiber. Through science-based research and innovation, our mission to protect and grow demand for cotton remains the same,but our approach has broadened in how we meet that mission.
TW : U.S.cotton has global opportunities.What is Cotton Incorporated’s approach to support demand around the globe?
Kimbrell: We support global demand for U.S. cotton by leveraging our unique expertise in technical research,innovation, marketing and supply chain support.There is simply no other organization or facility like Cotton Incorporated.Our people and their subject matter expertise help ensure U.S. cotton continues to meet the diverse needs of the global market.As the top resource for cotton,we collaborate closely with stakeholders across the value chain,ensuring U.S. cotton remains competitive in the global market.
TW : Cotton has long been “The Fabric of Our Lives.”Will we see any shifts in Cotton Incorporated’s
branding or messaging under your leadership?
Kimbrell: The iconic “The Fabric of Our Lives” campaign continues to be a cornerstone of our consumer brand strategy.The iconic campaign has evolved to meet the needs of today’s consumers,targeting 18-34 year-old,primarily female, Gen Z and Millennials.A recent shift to the“Fabric of Now”campaign takes a more modern marketing approach employing social media,influencers and strategic brand partnerships shifting the focus to targeted consumer engagement around cotton’s key benefits through education and driving behavior change.
TW : Cotton Incorporated has long focused on market research and data collection to support its research and marketing efforts.What opportunity does artificial intelligence present in this data management and analysis?
Kimbrell: With research at our core,we’ve always embraced technology, and artificial intelligence offers tremendous benefits. That said,we will continue to rely on our subject matter experts and key stakeholders to ensure the data and insights are grounded in industry knowledge and practical experience.Combining AI with expert-driven insights allows us to refine our strategies, predict market trends and optimize supply chain management while we ensure our research,and marketing efforts remain at the forefront of the cotton industry.
Cotton Incorporated experiments with a variety of dyeing techniques including digital printing.
Supply Chain
TW : The push for transparency and traceability is increasing in the textile industry.How does Cotton Incorporated support the cotton industry moving towards a more accountable supply chain?
Kimbrell: The push for greater transparency and traceability in the textile industry is accelerating,and Cotton Incorporated is committed to being a trusted resource for manufacturers, brands,and retailers navigating this evolving landscape.We actively support the industry’s shift toward a more accountable supply chain by providing objective guidance on traceability technologies and sourcing strategies.Through our CottonWorks platform, we offer extensive sourcing support,technical insights, and educational resources to help partners make informed decisions that align with their traceability goals.
Trade
TW : What are your thoughts on the implementation of tariffs and how they may impact U.S. cotton producers,as well as the international cotton supply chain?
Kimbrell: The rapidly evolving changes proposed around tariffs create uncertainty around purchasing decisions throughout the supply chain.Given the global nature of the textile supply chain,changes in tariff structures have the potential to increase costs and purchasing decisions at each stage of the supply chain, from fiber to finished good. This uncertainty can dampen demand,indepen-
dent of the direct impact of the eventual policies that are implemented over the longer-term.
The recent changes in tariffs are added onto existing rates.As a result,any existing tariff advantages cotton-dominant products have relative to man-made dominant products are maintained and should continue to support cotton’s share of U.S.imports.
TW : Do you see any other economic challenges for U.S.cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers?
stakeholders,with a global presence of research and marketing experts positioned strategically to address these issues and help sustain the industry’s growth.
Sustainability
TW : What’s your assessment of the sustainability narrative surrounding cotton,and how are you calibrating messaging and research to ensure data-driven advocacy?
Kimbrell : The sustainability narrative surrounding cotton is strong.As a natural fiber,cotton has a
Kimbrell: U.S.cotton producers and domestic cotton textile manufacturers are currently facing several economic challenges, including low prices,inflation,rising interest rates, and increasing input costs, all of which impact the economic viability of production.These challenges validate the importance of our research and the role of industry partnerships in navigating these conditions.
Cotton Incorporated is committed to supporting
TW : How do you see consumer awareness and behavior influencing the adoption of sustainable practices? What role does consumer education play in driving demand for truly sustainable products?
Kimbrell: Consumer awareness and behavior are key drivers in the adoption of sustainable practices.Our 2025 Lifestyle Monitor™ Survey found that the majority of consumers — 71 percent — say they are likely to check the fiber content label before purchasing a clothing item to avoid apparel made from synthetic fibers.As consumers become more conscious of environmental impacts,particularly with the increased visibility of the threat of microplastics, their preference for natural, biodegradable materials will increase.
clear advantage in this space,with its natural biodegradability and microplastic-free benefit. Cotton is grown from the earth and can be returned to the earth.Our story is compelling,backed by data-driven research that highlights cotton’s sustainability benefits. This positions cotton as the natural,eco-friendly choice in the fiber market, reinforcing its unique place throughout the supply chain.
Education plays a vital role in shaping these behaviors and it is essential for brands and retailers to provide greater visibility and transparency about the fibers they use,making it easy for consumers to find and choose truly sustainable products.
Concluding Thoughts
TW : Are there any factors that concern you with regards to successfully maintaining and growing cotton’s future?
Kimbrell: We are navigating through undeniably complex times.From the field to the consumer, challenges are weighing heavy on the cotton industry.Our growers are under
Cotton Incorporated has a variety of spinning, knitting and weaving machines used to generate FABRICAST™collection samples, as well as develop other technical cotton innovations.
immense pressure.Rising input costs,depressed prices,and unpredictable yields have created a tough environment where profitability is hard-won.
cutting-edge agricultural research,driving sustainability initiatives,or developing technologies that help cotton compete on efficiency and performance, our work is laying the foundation for a more competitive and sustain-
standing firmly behind our growers — through strategic investment in research, technology,and advocacy that reinforces cotton’s economic viability.I’m confident in the talent and dedication of the Cotton Incorporated team and the
On the product side,we continue to confront a fiber market that is evolving rapidly.It is a fiber market where low-cost synthetics have gained market share. However,these short-term advantages come with long-term environmental costs like microplastics.It’s a firm reminder that innovation,performance,and leaning into cotton’s natural advantages are critically important.Cotton is a versatile,high-quality,safe and compliant fiber so even in the midst of these headwinds,this environment is full of opportunity.
At Cotton Incorporated, we are not new to adversity.The Cotton Research and Promotion Program was built to address exactly these kinds of challenges and market complexities. Whether it’s advancing
able future for cotton. Our marketing efforts continue to build trust and relevance for cotton with our“customers”— manufacturers,brands,retailers and consumers around the world.These efforts don’t just promote a fiber — they promote a story of stewardship,innovation and authenticity that sets cotton apart.
Undoubtedly,there is more work to be done. The challenges we face are not short-term.We must keep pace with accelerating innovation in alternative fibers.We also must remain vigilant in communicating cotton’s strong environmental story in a world where regulatory pressures, misinformation,and shifting consumer expectations abound.Finally,sustaining cotton’s future means
manufacturing in nearly 160 countries,cotton is a truly global fiber of great significance.
At Cotton Incorporated, the work we do matters — to all of these stakeholders. It matters to farmers whose livelihoods depend on a healthy,vibrant textile industry.It matters to families who rely on cotton products every day.It matters to manufacturers, brands,and retailers looking for sustainable,high-quality materials.And it matters to the future of an industry that is interwoven with the economies and communities around the world.
strength of our stakeholder community.With the right focus and collective will,we have the capability to deliver meaningful progress and move cotton forward in a rapidly changing world.
TW : When you look back on your tenure,what do you hope to have achieved both for the cotton industry and the organization?
Kimbrell: Cotton is truly the“Fabric of our Lives.” It touches nearly every part of our daily routines — offering comfort,durability and versatility in a way that only a natural fiber can.But cotton is more than a product; it’s a cornerstone of the global economy,sustaining the livelihoods of millions of farmers and workers. Grown in 77 countries, traded across more than 80 countries,and used in
When I look back on my tenure,I hope it will be defined by measurable, meaningful progress — progress that strengthened cotton’s position in the market,enhanced Cotton Incorporated’s ability to support the industry,and added real value for all cotton stakeholders.I want us to have expanded cotton’s relevance not just through innovation in the field,fiber and fabric,but through marketing that authentically tells cotton’s story — a story rooted in stewardship, quality and enduring value.
I also hope to have led Cotton Incorporated in a way that reinforced its role as a trusted partner and respected industry leader — a source of expertise, collaboration,and inspiration from farm to retail. Ultimately,our success will be measured by more than market share.It will be seen in the strength, resilience,and continued relevance of cotton as the fiber of choice for generations to come. TW
William Kimbrell and key members of the Global Supply Chain Marketing team, Cotton Incorporated board members and cotton producers convened in Hong Kong recently for the Cotton ConneXions conference.
GLOBAL INDUSTRIAL HEMP FIBER SUMMIT
GLOBAL INDUSTRIAL HEMP FIBER SUMMIT
Hemp:
Hemp: Learn, See, Network
The inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit is designed to foster collaboration across the U.S. hemp fiber industry.
TW Special Report
supply chains in textiles, construction, automotive components and more.
“We’re genuinely excited to champion the research and development of hemp textiles right here in the United States,” said Dr. Andre West, professor and director of Zeis Textiles Extension at NC State University. “Investing in hemp is a win-win for our economy and our environment — it’s a sustainable crop that empowers American farmers, reduces our reliance on imports, and paves the way for a cleaner, more resilient textile industry.”
TThe 2018 Farm Bill brought with it an increased interest in growing hemp in the United States. In turn, there also was a growing interest in using hemp for textile products. As noted by Aaron Nesser in his feature “Hemp’s American Arrival: Tariffs An Unexpected Ally,” (see TW, page 22, this issue), the industry is ripe for investment and development.
Recognizing the potential and wanting to draw attention to the industry, several groups have come together to organize the 2025 Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit to explore innovation, supply chain development and market opportunities for hemp fiber.
The event, to be held July 15-17, 2025, is hosted by the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C., presented by the National Industrial Hemp Council (NICH), and supported by the NSF Textile Engine.
“This summit is designed to deliver actionable knowledge and foster collaboration across the entire hemp fiber value chain — from seed to finished product,” said Patrick Atagi, NIHC president and CEO. “Attendees will leave with new tools, connections and strategies to move their businesses and the industry forward.”
The event kicks off with a networking reception at Trophy Brewing on July 14.
The first day of the summit, July 15, focuses on learning with plenary sessions at the Wilson College of Textiles. The five sessions — Agriculture; Processing; Textiles; Composites and Building Materials; and Industry Value Chain — are designed to tell the story of industrial hemp fiber. Presentations will center on the latest developments in hemp fiber technology and applications. Fiber genetics, cultivation, mechanical processing, advanced manufacturing and cutting-edge research all will be discussed.
On July 16, summit participants will see hemp innovation firsthand as they are transported to NC State’s College of Agricultural and Life Sciences Horticultural Research Stations and Biophil Natural Fibers in Lumberton, N.C. These two field trips, led by Dr. David Suchoff and David Camby respectively, will educate attendees on the hemp fiber journey from field to fiber and hurd processing to decorticating and spinning, and beyond.
Day three, July 17, rounds out the conference with additional speakers, roundtable discussions, and tours of the Wilson College of Textiles complex as well as The Nonwovens Institute.
Each stage of the summit will allow attendees to network as they engage and learn more about industrial hemp and how it is transforming
“I’m incredibly excited to be a part of organizing the inaugural Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit,” said Guy Carpenter, founder and president of Bear Fiber Inc., and NIHC representative. “This international gathering will spotlight American ingenuity and highlight the rapid advancements in U.S. hemp fiber innovation, while fostering global collaboration across the fiber value chain.
“Today, we’re blending and spinning both coarse and fine count yarns, enabling high-quality knits and wovens with confidence and precision,” Carpenter added. “This success is the result of a collaborative industry effort — farm to fiber to fabric to fashion — proving the power of innovation and partnership. We’re excited to showcase hemp’s role in sustainable manufacturing and its growing impact on the world stage.”
Summit sponsors include: presenting sponsor NIHC, host sponsor Wilson College of Textiles, funding partner U.S. Department of Agriculture, and supporting sponsor the NSF Textile Engine, as well as Bear Fiber, IND Hemp, Hemi and Biophil Natural Fibers.
All professionals, authorities and researchers who wish to foster advances in the hemp fiber industry are invited to participate in the inaugural 2025 NIHC Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit! TW
For more information about the Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit contact GlobalHempFiber@ncsu.edu or visit globalhempfiber.textiles.ncsu.edu.
Hemp’s American Arrival: Tariffs An Unexpected Ally
Will uncertainty in global supply chains created by tariffs create opportunities for hemp in the textile industry?
By Aaron Nesser
Hemp yarn spinning in action. (Image courtesy of U.S. Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service, New Orleans)
The 2018 Farm Bill brought a resurgence of interest, but the initial hype quickly met reality. Farmers rushed to grow hemp, but with limited processing infrastructure, there were few buyers, and many growers got burned.
Since then, companies have quietly built the needed infrastructure, processing U.S.-grown hemp into products like insulation and building materials.
Why might this tariff-driven moment differ? Key parts of the supply chain are now in place. More farmers are growing industrial hemp, and volume processors like Dallas-based Panda Biotech LLC and IND Hemp, Benton, Mont., are contracting directly with farmers to ensure a plentiful supply of hemp materials, including the key raw ingredient for textile fiber.
From Missed Expectations To Real Resilience
During hemp’s hype-phase from 2018–2022, hopes ran high that it could be a superior, sustainable substitute for cotton. However, early attempts to produce hemp textiles revealed significant challenges. One-hundred-percent hemp yarns failed in existing cotton mills, blends with cotton were less than ideal, and the “cottonization” process proved more complex and environmentally taxing than anticipated.
CChina has long dominated hemp textiles. It is the number one grower and processor. Since industrial hemp’s legalization in 2018, the United States has become the world’s third-largest grower of hemp, but China still dominates the critical process of converting raw hemp into textile fiber.
This dynamic means that some U.S.-grown hemp is shipped to China for processing before it is incorporated into apparel destined for U.S. and
European markets — a complex global loop that new tariffs, even at just 30 percent, are now disrupting.
Why Now? Positioning For A Shifting Market
Hemp is hardly new to American soil; it was once the number one fiber crop grown in the United States, essential for industries like shipping, defense, textiles and paper. However, shifts in technology and policy, including its later prohibition, pushed it aside.
But the industry has learned from these early stumbles. After a period of recalibration, hemp now is getting beyond some of the early roadblocks and shows potential for clear economic, environmental and performance advantages.
As a crop, hemp is very productive. Compared to cotton it produces three to four times as much fiber per acre, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and can be planted and harvested two or more times per season, according to the Rodale Institute. This increased productivity uses 75 percent less water1 than cotton.
Beyond sheer output, hemp demonstrates surprising resilience as a crop. It thrives in more diverse climates than cotton, and research from University of Adelaide 2 shows that industrial hemp is exceptionally drought tolerant. In a warming world, where cotton crops suffer billion dollar losses due to drought and water rationing, hemp may be a way to mitigate extreme weather risk.
This resilience extends to the fiber itself. As a natural material, hemp is inherently strong, and after early disappointments with blends, it’s now proving its toughness. New, clean processing technology, especially for degumming, has advanced and is now capable of producing fiber that genuinely improves performance and comfort.
The Domestic Challenge: Bridging The Infrastructure & Technology Gap
Successfully bringing U.S. hemp textiles to market hinges on overcoming key infrastructure and processing hurdles. The American textile industry is built for short-staple cotton, and hemp is not natively compatible. To work in cotton systems, apparel-quality fiber needs extensive processing, called cottonization to create short, spinnable fibers, which usually involves chemical degumming.
This critical degumming is often outsourced to China, employing methods that face significant U.S. environmental and worker safety regulatory barriers from the Environmental Protection Agency and Occupational Safety and Health Administration. This reliance on overseas processing is a primary challenge that tariffs could incentivize solving domestically.
Progress is being made on multiple fronts. Panda Biotech’s Senior Vice President of Business Development Mark D’Sa reports that the company has now made a key advancement, producing fiber for bottomweight textiles like denim and canvas. It is able to do so by bypassing degumming altogether.
For the finer, softer yarns suitable for apparel like T-shirts — where major
players note historical processing and comfort challenges — Daniel Yohannes, CEO of Renaissance Fiber Inc., Winston-Salem, N.C., shared a breakthrough — a first-of-its-kind clean degumming process. According to Yohannes, the process achieves strength and softness without harsh chemistry, making it the first scalable solution in the United States for fine textiles.
The challenge now is scaling up these domestic solutions in an economically uncertain time.
Navigating Tariffs And Building The Fiber Supply Chain
Despite progress, serious hurdles still remain. The current administration’s stance is bearish on domestic textiles3, and ironically, tariffs meant to curb imports also hit the equipment crucial for building the U.S. industry. Compatibility with existing infrastructure will be an advantage.
The bellwether for success will be hemp-centric brands. Companies like Jungmaven — an apparel brand focused on using hemp in its products — and Datsusara LLC — an apparel and bag brand known for Joe Rogan’s favorite fanny pack — currently rely on established Chinese supply chains for hemp-blend apparel. The key question is if they will shift these operations —and critically, if they’ll choose producers in the United States.
A Tariff-Driven Opportunity, If Hurdles Can Be Cleared
Tariffs on Chinese goods offer a potential, if uncertain, catalyst for the U.S. hemp textile industry.
While early hype has yielded to tangible progress, realizing hemp’s full potential requires decisively bridging infrastructure gaps and scaling innovative processing to achieve market competitiveness.
Today’s economic and trade uncertainties may provide a rare opening. Seizing it, however, demands more than technical breakthroughs; sustained investment, bold innovation and strategic farm-to-fashion alliances are critical. Can the U.S. hemp industry mobilize the resources and speed required? TW
Editor’s Note: Aaron Nesser is a scientist, designer and founder of Keep Earth Co., a strategic advisory and product development consultancy specializing in biobased materials and products. He previously directed material innovation for Kelp-based textile company Keel Labs, Morrisville, N.C.
Hemp yarn and knitted hemp fabric (Images courtesy of Renaissance Fiber Inc.)
Danville, Va.-based Circ has announced plans to build a $500 million cotton and polyester recycling plant in France.
tard, the Netherlands, Chemelot is known as a European industrial park and innovation hub. This announcement follows the opening of Regeneration Hub Zero in Frankfurt late last year.
Textile Recycling Roundup 2025
Textile Recycling Roundup 2025
Recycling textiles isn’t new, but investments point to a trend that is attracting interest that fits well with textiles burgeoning sustainability mindset.
TW Special Report
The company has stated that the new site, named “Regeneration Hub One,” aims to “… regenerate the equivalent of 300 million articles annually that would otherwise end up as textile waste, resulting in a production capacity of 50,000 metric tons of rBHET per year and will then be repolymerized into Reju PET.”
The goal is an output of Reju Polyester, originating from textile waste, that may be reintroduced into the textile lifecycle, through the textile supply chain and into the hands of consumers.
RRecently, T e x t i l e W o r l d editors have observed an increasing volume of reports of textile recycling projects taking shape. From the inception of new companies and partnerships made, to new plant announcements. When sustainability entered the textile lexicon not that long ago, questions swirled as to what it really meant for the industry. Was sustainability just a fad, or was it the foundation for a new mindset in textile manufacturing?
From product design to the end of a product’s life and disposal — could the industry pivot from largely a cradle-to-grave mentality to a cradle-tocradle mindset? Was circularity a topic that made for great speeches and presentations, or was it the future of the textile industry?
Recycling as a topic started to take on steam as a sustainability solution once basic challenges were addressed such as which products were reasonable targets for recycling, how could more products fit into a recycling model, and could recycling scale into a manageable manufacturing model.
Those questions are still not fully answered, but this round up highlights just some of the recent investments that go a long way to show that recycling textiles is no longer just speeches and presentations — there are real people, real companies and real investments focused on a circular textile future.
The Hub
Paris-based Reju™ keeps making news. Featured in a recent issue of TW (see “Advancing Textile Circularity: Reju™’s Vision For Sustainable Polyester”, TW , 2024 Quarterly Issue IV) , Arnaud Pieton, CEO of Technip Energies, the France-based parent company of Reju, stated: “What has been holding the world back in textile circularity is not a lack of demand for textile recycling, but the lack of a solution that makes recycling of textiles economical on an industrial scale.”
Recently, Reju announced that it has selected the Chemelot Industrial Park for its first industrial scale regeneration center. Located in Sit-
Reju touts its landmark achievements since launch to include:
•Opening the first Regeneration Hub in Frankfurt;
•Partnering with Goodwill and Waste Management in the United States to will advance textile recycling in North America;
•A partnership with Nouvelles Fibres Textiles to automatically sort clothing and disruptors such as zippers and buttons;
•A partnership with Cibutex in Europe to establish an ecosystem among member companies; and
•A partnership with Rematrix in Europe to secure sustainable textile supply.
As Reju continues its recycling mission, it is clearly a company to monitor for textile recycling innovation and achieving scale.
The Polycotton Challenger Headquartered in Danville, Va., Circ recently made the news when it announced a new, first-of-its-kind facility to be built in Saint-Avold, France. The facility will recycle previously considered unrecyclable post-
consumer and post-industrial polycotton textiles. The facility is targeting a processing capacity of 70,000 metric tons of polycotton material per year.
Regarding the announcement, Circ President Peter Majeranowski, said: “This is the moment we’ve been building toward since Circ was founded. Our first full-scale facility will push circular fashion over the critical tipping point in the global economy, proving that the future of textiles can be decarbonized, closer to waste-free, and regenerative by design. It’s not just a major milestone for Circ, but a breakthrough for the entire circular economy at a time when the planet urgently needs scalable climate solutions.”
Circ has patented hydrothermal technology that separates and recovers both polyester and cotton — an innovative technology that address common poly cotton blended fabrics that are said to make up 77 percent of the global textile market.
Syre
In October 2024, Fayetteville, N.C.-based Selenis — supplier of copolyesters for a diverse range of applications that is part of the IMG Group — and Stockholm-based Syre, a company focused on hyperscaling textile-to-textile recycling, announced a strategic partnership to establish a textile-to-textile recycling plant in Cedar Creek, N.C., set to be
operational by mid-2025. It is estimated the plant will be able to deliver up to 10,000 metric tons of circular polyester annually.
Syre has big plans. According to the company — founded in 2023 — this announcement keeps it on track with its first “blueprint recycling plant” in 2024 to be operational in 2025. Syre plans to start construction of its first gigascale plant, which will be capable of producing 150,000 to 250,000 metric tons of circular polyester, in 2027. Syre’s future plans focus on the construction of multiple plants worldwide. The goal is to produce 3 million metric tons of circular polyester resulting in more than 15 million metrics tons of carbon dioxide equivalents abated in 2032.
RE&UP’ing Their Game
The Netherlands-based RE&UP has its heritage with Türkiye-based Sanko Textile, known for yarn and fabrics for fashion applications.
RE&UP recently announced a partnership with Italy-based Marchi & Fildi S.p.A. to co-develop a new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns. The collaboration — currently at pre-industrial stage — combines RE&UP’s cutting-edge textile-to-textile recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s expertise in
Paris-based Reju is capitalizing on a glycolysis polyester recycling technology to recover and repolymerize polyester from textile waste.
sustainable yarn development and manufacturing.
Marchi & Fildi produces yarns for fashion, furnishings, and technical end-uses, and has a long history in Italy’s Biella textiles district. The company has grown into an international group with plants in in Italy, Turkey and Brazil.
The partnership focuses on the codevelopment of a “new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns.”
Ambercycle Forms More Partnerships
Los Angeles-based Ambercycle continues to expand its recycling mission. Established in 2015, the company uses molecular regeneration technology and produces a flagship regenerated polyester product called cycora®.
Ambercycle has a track record of significant partnerships with companies including South Korea-based Hyosung TNC and Taiwan-based Shinkong Synthetic Fibers Corp.
Recently the company joined with Highsun Holding Group (HSCC). Co-founder and CEO of Ambercycle, Shay Sethi, said of the partnership with HSCC: “Scaling textile-to-textile solutions requires deep partnerships, innovation, and development of the global apparel value chain to work in harmony with the planet. By partnering with HSCC, we’re establishing a foundational partnership for circular systems to work at scale. This is how we turn circularity from an industrywide ambition into a global reality.”
RE&UP, The Netherlands, has partnered with Italy-based Marchi & Fildi S.p.A. to codevelop premium recycled cotton yarns.
Renewing Cellulose Fiber
Circulose AB, with its history beginning with Sweden-based textile recycling company Renewcell, has recently reached a strategic partnership agreement with China-based cellulose fiber producer Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber.
According to Circulose, this collaboration marks a significant milestone in the commercialization and scaling of CIRCULOSE ® fiber, while also driving Tangshan Sanyou’s brand toward greater international recognition. The two companies will work together to ensure that ReVisco ™ fibers, produced using CIRCULOSE pulp, maintain a focus on “quality, supply capacity, and pricing, thereby advancing both brands in the highquality and innovative development of circular and renewable materials.”
“Tangshan Sanyou has always believed in the strong potential of
recycling cotton textile waste, which is essential for fostering a green and sustainable industry,” said Zhang Dongbin, executive vice president of Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber. “We have unwavering confidence in the market potential of CIRCULOSE and its new strategic direction, and we are excited about our future collaboration.”
Separating Elastic From Nylon
Earlier this year, Italy-based Aquafil announced, “the world’s first demonstration plant capable of chemically separating elastic fibers from nylon.”
This innovative technology addresses the complex challenge of elastic/nylon separation, which according to the company, opens the door to new possibilities in recycling and circularity.
According to Aquafil, in 2013 it
partnered with the Georgia Institute of Technology to study solutions for recycling mixed fibers, which in its words was “a task long deemed insurmountable.”
In 2022, with a new patent filing, a refined process brought the company closer to a solution. Nylon recovered using the process will be regenerated at Aquafil’s ECONYL® plant.
Of this achievement, Aquafil CEO Giulio Bonazzi said, “This milestone demonstrates how cutting-edge technology can tackle even the toughest environmental challenges — turning waste into value and advancing the shift to a truly circular economy.”
Recovering Poly Cotton Blends Without Separation
Spain-based Recover™, a producer of recycled cotton fiber and cotton fiber blends, announced the opening of a manufacturing facility in Vietnam late last year.
The 14,000-square-meter plant will utilize Recover’s recycling technology initially operating with two state-of-the-art recycling lines. Annual production capacity of 10,000 metric tons is anticipated.
One of the facility’s primary products will be RMix, Recover’s recycling solution for cotton-polyester blends, which eliminates the need to separate fibers, overcoming a long-standing industry challenge in polycotton recycling, according to the company.
The location in Vietnam’s Dong Nai province was chosen because of Vietnam’s substantial role in the global textile industry as the thirdlargest textile exporter worldwide. Recover reported: “This latest facility in Vietnam represents the next step in the company’s ambitious expansion plans, aiming to expand to new global markets.”
Recover’s first expansion beyond Spain was a second plant in 2022 located in Bangladesh.
Samsara Eco On The Move
Samsara Eco recently announced it had secured a commercialization part-
Los Angeles-based Ambercycle recently inked a cooperation agreement with Highsun Holding Group to focus on scaling textile-to-textile closed-loop recycling systems.
ner. The Australia-based company, recently profiled in TW, (see “Samsara Eco: Commercializing Nylon 6,6 Recycling,” TW , 2025 Quarterly Issue I) is partnering with KBR Sustainable Technology Solutions to design its first-of-a-kind plastics and textile enzymatic recycling plant, which is set for completion in early 2028.
According to Samsara, “Samsara Eco’s enzymatic recycling technology aims to create a continuous recycling loop for some of the most common types of plastic and synthetic fiber –materials that have traditionally been difficult or impossible to recycle. Powered by Samsara Eco’s proprietary AI platform, the company’s patented enzymes break down plastic to its original building blocks (monomers) which aim to allow plastics to be continuously remanufactured into new products without degradation in quality and with a low carbon footprint.”
Under the agreement, KBR will perform a front-end engineering design, or pre-FEED, for the project by the end of the second quarter of 2025. The company’s technical and commercial experts will then deliver a FEED engineering package for the process design to build a 20,000 metric tons per year commercial facility for nylon 6,6.
“KBR is uniquely equipped to deliver world-class solutions that help our customers bring sustainable technology to market, and we are thrilled to support Samsara Eco on this unique opportunity,” Jay Ibrahim, president, KBR.
Notably, last year, Samsara introduced the first enzymatically recycled nylon 6,6 product in partnership with clothing brand lululemon — the iconic Swiftly Tech Long-Sleeve Top. It also launched the first product made from enzymatically recycled polyester, creating lululemon’s limited edition Packable Anorak jacket.
Accelerating Circularity
It is hard to discuss the impact of textile recycling without mentioning Campbell Hall, N.Y. based Accelerating Circularity.
Founded in 2019, the nonprofit organization has been on a mission to refashion the textile industry with a focus on new supply chains and business models that turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials and, with a stakeholder approach, set in motion a circular textile economy.
Accelerating Circularity achievements in building coalitions, receiving notable grants, and publishing findings are worth commending.
Recently, the Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans collaboration
was announced in conjunction with Walmart.
According to Accelerating Circularity: “The Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans contain 26-percent recycled cotton — 50-percent postconsumer, 50-percent post-industrial — alongside virgin cotton and elastane for stretch, setting a new benchmark for post-consumer recycled content in commercially available denim. This project was made possible through collaboration across the textile supply chain trial members, including collection by Bank & Vogue (post-consumer) and Martex (post-industrial); mechanical recycling by Giotex & Estopas; yarn production by Parkdale; and fabric production by Cone Denim.”
Karla Magruder, founder of Accelerating Circularity, commented on the project saying: “This launch is a proof point that circularity is not just a concept — it’s happening now. Through collaboration across the supply chain, we’ve shown that used textiles can become a viable feedstock for new products at scale.”
As brands, retailers, and manufacturers take interest and participate, recycling textiles may just be no longer just be a topic of speeches and presentations, and circular textile future might just be taking hold. TW
Spain-based Recover™, has opened a 14,000-square-foot facility in Vietnam that will focus on producing RMix, its cotton/polyester recycled product.
Denim from the Wrangler x Accelerating Circularity jeans collection.
ExecutiveForum
A Conversation With Roland Zimmer: From Textile Printing To Plastic Recycling Solutions
Established in 2014, Zimmer America Recycling Solutions has found a foothold providing recycling equipment focused on PET — from single machines to complete recycling systems.
By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief
TTo many in the textile industry,the name Zimmer is synonymous with textile printing.The family’s contribution to rotary screen printing is notable,and later developments for digital printing are significant.
More recently,Roland Zimmer has charted a new course — one focused on bringing technologies to bear for the daunting task of plastic recycling.
In 1970,Zimmer established roots in the United States as a subsidiary of Zimmer Austria functioning as Johannes Zimmer Service and Sales,the U.S.branch of the Austriabased headquarters. Zimmer America Corp. was established in 1985 by Roland J.P.Zimmer.
Rotary textile printing is a significant segment in the global textile industry, and throughout the 1970s, 80s and 90s was the gold standard for applying artist’s designs to fabrics in apparel,bedding,home furnishings and military apparel,among other
applications.Zimmer’s rotary printing machines, with their “open bearing” design,evolved with innovations that brought speed, efficiency and flexibility to the robust textile printing segment.Later developments brought digital printing to the fore with transformational change, and in the context of the printed textile segment, revolutionized the way textiles are printed.
In a turn of the page, Roland established Zimmer America Recycling Solutions in 2014.This marked a new direction for Zimmer that built on the company’s industrial solutions mentality of representing,selling,installing, and servicing industrial machinery and technology.
Whether for industrial cleaning,plastic technologies,textile solutions or consulting,Roland Zimmer has embraced a broad array of opportunities that benefit from his core competencies.
He recently sat down with Textile World to share some of the challenges and
benefits of his textile legacy and the many opportunities that lie ahead.
TW : You have a long and very personal history in textiles.When did you develop an interest in recycling and how did it complement your experience bringing textile technologies to industry?
Zimmer: Good question and it really happened in a kind of natural way.In a sense,you know the history, the demand for textile machinery was steadily going down and sometimes faster than acceptable.
Since the late 80s early 90s,I was faced with the fact that textile machinery was less and less in demand and we had to look around,of course,for some other machinery.I made a connection with somebody that worked in the machinery industry who did washing lines for textile washing — continuous wash ranges.There was another company developing washing lines for plastics,and I had a
personal connection to a man who joined this new company.He opened my eyes to this completely new industry with plastic recycling washing lines,and I looked at that and said, “you know,it’s interesting.”
I knew nothing about plastic recycling,but I thought there was a very strong parallel here.
TW : What does this new direction share with your textile experience, and what is different?
Zimmer: The parallel is that it’s machinery that has something in the beginning, coming in — not virgin like the printing machine — but a plastic,in this case,plastic to be recycled.
And then there’s a process that takes place, and it’s quite a complex process that takes place in the washing line.
There is a plastic washing line,and at the end something else comes out and then in the middle,you have bearings and rolls and all kinds of things that I was very familiar with from the
Roland Zimmer
textile printing industry.It’s another process in another industry,but it has an infeed,it has an exit,and it has a process in between, so I was able mentally make the bridge to completely understand what we are talking about.
TW : So,you were comfortable with the connection? Controlling a process,for example?
Zimmer: The connection is that we use the same Siemens S 7 PLC for controlling the process that we were using on the printing machines as is used on the recycling equipment to control the process.
Another interesting aspect was that some of the folks I was dealing with for years,especially the carpet manufacturers in Dalton,Ga.,were very active in recycling.They discovered plastic as a resource for making polyester fiber out of recycled plastic,and you know that right now they are some of the large players in the plastic recycling world because they buy plastic bottles and have their own processing of making fibers.Then these fibers end up in carpet.
This was a market I knew very well from the carpet printing market and all of a sudden,it turns out these carpet printers are not just carpet printers using the Zimmer CHROMOJET,but they’re also fiber makers using recycled plastic bottles to make carpet.It was a very astonishing sequence of
events that led me into the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) recycling world.
TW : What recycling technologies is Zimmer America focused on and how are is the technology used?
Zimmer: It starts really at the core of the recycling of PET.This is a widely used plastic material in the container industry for bottles — so every plastic bottle of Coke,Pepsi and water, and anything else you can think of is basically PET because this material won the battle against other plastics for this application.
The advantage is that PET has a 100 percent recyclable property in the sense that out of a recycled,shredded, pelletized and extruded plastic,I can make another plastic bottle.This 100 percent recyclability is what makes it so attractive.
TW : In the beginning, what machinery interested you?
Zimmer: A Germanybased company called STF developed their own recycling.Interesting,not only making machinery,but also developed as a recycler.
The line of machinery and the way STF recycles PET plastic is mechanical, so there’s some water involved,there is some friction involved and transportation from one tank to another involved,but it’s a very,very simple process. It’s basically an oversized washing machine,not unlike a washing machine
at your house.This basically mechanical process is relatively simple,and it takes a little time,some heat,some water,and at the end of the day you’re washing the flakes of a plastic bottle to a clean state.
Then there is another process — solid state polymerization,or SSP — that uses heat,time and a vacuum to remove all impurities embedded in the PET after the washing. The molecular structure of PET is rebuilt because overtime,and with some ultraviolet exposure,these molecular chains break.
the properties are also the same.That’s why it’s 100 percent recyclable,because you can make another bottle out of it.
TW : How was a relationship with STF developed?
Zimmer: As I came to know STF,I also found out that they are not present in the United States.When I visited the first time I said “Look,I’m very familiar with you being a European, with what you do here as European machinery manufacturers,and I’m very familiar with this
Another important part is reestablishing and adjusting the intrinsic viscosity,or IV.This must be corrected in the PET before it becomes pellets in order to make new bottles out of it.Because the bottle blowing and filling lines are very high-speed processes and things happen very quickly. For that reason,the IV must be exactly correct.
So,at the end of the day,the recycled PET and the virgin PET molecule look exactly the same and
American market.And I noticed that you have no activity in the United States yet.”I told STF that I would very much like to take my know-how of the U.S.market and how industrial companies buy machinery from Europe and from other industrial companies.That’s how the relationship started.
STF went for it,and they said,“Well,we are where we thought about doing something in America,but we haven’t done anything
Dirk Leiber (center), worldwide sales director, STF Group, and Roland Zimmer (right) at the 2025 Plastics Recycling Conference.
yet.”So,I said “Let me do it.I’ll do it for you.”
TW : Among others, Zimmer has taken on two large projects — one in the Dominican Republic,and one in Hilo,Hawaii.Can you share some details about these projects?
Zimmer: These two projects represent ideal customers in that both are new to recycling.These companies have different backgrounds.
The company in the Dominican Republic is in the waste space.It has waste sorting lines for household waste,so general and household waste including plastics,and they are expanding.It holds, sorts,and sells reusable and recyclable waste items.It is building a complete plant for taking the PET or the plastic content,out of the municipal household waste. Municipal waste consists of a lot of plastic.There’s some paper and organic matter also,but PET — as a plastic for all kinds of containers — has become such a major portion of household waste.More and more people are recognizing that if we already sort the waste and now here we have all this plastic,why don’t we go the next step and take the plastic and make a new product — for example, recyclable PET bottles — and that’s what this customer in the Domincan Republic is doing.
The customer in Hawaii is the premium bottled water company Waiakea. It produces water bottles
every day and sells them all over the United States.It has the idea to be circular in its own production.It wants to make sure is that every bottle in Hawaii gets recycled back into a bottle. This is the first Hawaiibased PET recycling factory that we are building in Hilo towards that goal.
TW : What do you observe about the future of recycling?
Zimmer: The fact of the matter is that recycling plastic is in its very,very infancy — not only in America,but worldwide. We are producing a tremendous amount of plastic every year and it’s increasing because China is a big player now in plastic.
I think in America,the statistic is that from all plastic that is sold in various forms and shapes,including bottles and non-bottle plastic,I think we are under — way,way,way,under — 10 percent recycled.
That means that 90 percent of the plastic ends up in the landfill,and what I want is for this to change.
There are only two U.S. states that have said they will be part of the change. Obviously,I can’t change that personally,but I can be part of the change to a circular economy where we understand that plastic originates from a natural resource that is limited.
The way we should look at that resource is that whatever we make out of it — for example,plastic — should be first-of-all,easy to recycle — which a bottle
is.But we should live in a world where we can maintain our enormous appetite for new plastic largely with the plastic we have already made once before and become a real circular economy.That’s the goal.
TW : What opportunities lie ahead and what part will they play in textiles?
Zimmer: The industry is now concerning itself with textile recycling for the same reason.I already spoke about carpet producers,which previously used mostly nylon.They have switched in the last 10 years and PET is now used in about 50 percent of commercial carpet,which again brings attention to the recyclability of PET.
Recycling is becoming a thing,slowly.And now textiles,since some are made using PET,are very interesting to watch.Textiles are things to be recycled,but how do you recycle textiles? It’s not easy because textiles are made from different items and a textile garment may be made using not a singular component,so maybe it’s not only PET.But I think textiles is the next frontier for recycling.
I think also that as so-called extended producer responsibility gets talked about more and more,and in the plastic world,extended producer responsibility is really becoming synonymous with a circular economy.
TW : Is extended producer responsibility (EPR) a change agent?
Zimmer: EPR is just a way to try to make the producers of things more responsible at the end of life of the products because we all realized that we can’t fill up those big holes in the earth with everything that we throw away.
So,we wait and see. This shift needs to be happening in the way we look at our resources — the continuous use of resources,not being end of life,buried in landfill etc.
Whatever you do,have the circularity of your production in mind whatever it is.We must get used to the idea that for everything we produce,the resources we use to make them have an eventual end,right?
So how can we reuse them,and not fill up a place with garbage? This world is beautiful planet,and to produce things with the idea of using those things many,many,times down the road is the way. TW
Editor’s Note:STF Group, with a focus on PET postconsumer bottles,is a manufacturer of plastic recycling and washing machinery and has delivered some 60 plants worldwide.Reportedly, STF recycles more than 130,000 tons of PET bottles per year into high quality flakes in its own plants in Germany and is considered one of Europe largest recyclers.Zimmer Austria continues to offer textile coating ranges,digital,flat bed and rotary screen-printing machinery and loop steamers. It is represented by Fi-Tech Inc.,Midlothian,Va.
UNIFI® is growing its stable of branded fibers with the addition of Fortisyn™.
TW Special Report
Fortisyn™: Engineered Durability For Abrasion Resistance
UUnifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., has established itself as a leader in the production of recycled fibers and yarns, and most recently extended its knowhow and expertise in fiber science to develop Fortisyn ™ . This abrasionresistant yarn, available in a virgin nylon 6,6 or recycled REPREVE ® nylon 6 version, was engineered for durability in military uniforms and tactical applications and meets ASTMD2261, ASTMD5034, and ASTMD3884 standards. Unifi notes that performance benefits and claims are based on fabric construction and product selection and these claims are reflective of 500D Fortisyn yarn testing in fabric form. Because it’s made in the United States, Fortisyn also is compliant with Berry Amendment applications.
According to Unifi, fabrics made using Fortisyn offer enhanced tear and tensile strength, and can withstand exposure to harsh conditions and rough handling while maintaining form, function and appearance over time. “Fortisyn uses proprietary air-jet texturing technology to engineer built-in durability and abrasion resistance,” said Meredith Boyd,
executive vice president and chief product officer, Unifi Inc.
According to Boyd, the two Fortisyn offerings meet differing endproduct requirements. “Certain product specifications require nylon 6,6 whereas other applications, such as for rugged tactical gear, do not have polymer type specifications,” Boyd noted. “The diversity of needs in this application area led Unifi to develop Fortisyn technology in both nylon polymer types including a sustainable offering.”
Solution-Dyed Option
For enhanced colorfastness, the yarn can be supplied in solutiondyed form, which offers a broad range of color options. With its solution-dyeing capabilities, Unifi can also develop custom colors to meet specific customer needs. Solution dyeing is also a sustainable option. “The solution dyeing process, which incorporates pigments during the melt-extrusion stage, significantly reduces water and energy consumption compared to traditional dyeing methods,” Boyd noted.
Testing was performed to ensure the necessary properties are achieved
for both Fortisyn variants. “Fortisyn has undergone comprehensive testing in collaboration with mills and strategic development partners,” Boyd said. “These tests, conducted at the fabric level, validate the yarn’s claims.
Fortisyn is also compatible with other Unifi yarn technologies, although any such combinations must be tested in fabric form to make sure they meet any necessary specifications.
In addition, Fortisyn made with Repreve Nylon is fully traceable using FiberPrint® U-TRUST® along with Oeko-Tex® GRS and SCS certifications for recycled content.
Enhancing The Product Line
Summing up the yarn’s value proposition, Boyd said: “Fortisyn offers a unique combination of performance, sustainability and domestic availability.” The introduction of Fortisyn reflects Unifi’s commitment to innovation, sustainability and meeting the evolving needs of its customers. “Customers value Fortisyn for its quality, consistency and the technical support provided by Unifi,” Boyd concluded. TW
Springing Forward: SYFA Conference Showcases Innovation, Advocacy In
Textiles
TThe Charlotte, N.C.-based Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) held its 2023 spring conference at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C.
Prior to the conference, SYFA hosted its third annual golf tournament at the Rocky River Golf Course in Concord, N.C. Proving to be a popular event, some 79 golfers participated this year vying to win the team competition, as well as prizes for closest to the pin and longest drive while playing in a Captain’s Choice format. Dominating the standings again was the team from Navis TubeTex with President Will Motchar at the helm. Proceeds from the tournament support a scholarship fund for student enrolled at Gaston College in the Textile Technology program. The program was designed to educate and train students in textile manufacturing and other areas related to textiles.
The theme for this spring’s conference was “Weaving The Future: Economic Insights & Innovations.”
The SYFA hosted a lively spring conference following its third annual fundraiser golf tournament.
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The first speaker in the two-day lineup was Kim Glas, president and CEO of the Washington-based National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO). Glas was fresh off a big win in Washington after President Donald Trump announced he would reform the de minimis loophole, something Glas had spent six years fighting for. The loophole allows some 4 million shipments a day to enter the United States without paying duties. Often, the shipments include illegal or unethically made products, unsafe goods and drugs such as fentanyl; and half of such shipments are estimated to be textile and apparel goods (See “A
Trade Association In Action: NCTO Steps Up To The Plate,” TW , this issue, to learn more).
At the SYFA meeting, Glas celebrated the win whilst also rallying attendees to get involved noting that the textile industry needs a bigger voice in Washington and the more executives get involved, the more powerful the lobby will be.
Attendees heard from seven other speakers on a variety of topics including:
•Shannan Billings, S&P Global — “State of the World in Petrochemical;”
•Matthew Martin, Federal Reserve Bank of Richmond — “Economic Outlook: On Track so Far, but with Heightened Uncertainty;”
•Chip Hartzog and Michael Rübenhagen, Oerlikon — “Staple Fiber Market & EVO Steam: Largest Staple Innovation in Decades;”
•Dr. André West, Zeis Textile Extension-Wilson College of Textiles — “The NC Textile Engine:
Kim Glas shared the latest updates from Washington with SYFAconference attendees.
Advancing our Nation’s Capacity for Textile Sustainability and Innovation;”
•Stephanie Rodgers, Textile Made Inc. — “IT is for Textile in Planetary Science — How Extreme Requirements are Driving Textile Innovation;”
•Matthew Kolmes, VOLT Smart Yarns/Supreme Corp. — “Wearable Tech: How Machine Learning and Smart Yarns got us a NASA Contract in 2024;” and last, but not least, a crowd favorite
•Alasdair Carmichael, NAPCOR presenting “RPET into Fibers and Textile Recycling Opportunities.”
Conference sponsors for the spring event included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsors Jomar Softcorp International Inc. and Oerlikon; Silver Sponsors Goulston Technologies and Pulcra Chemicals LLC; Bronze Sponsor Unifi Inc.; and Patrons Milliken & Company and PolySpinTex Inc.
“The Spring Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) Conference could not have come at a more critical and opportune time,” said Meredith Boyd, SYFA president and executive vice president, Unifi Inc. “It served as a dynamic platform for industry leaders to come together, collaborate, and rise to the moment. There is a renewed energy across the industry — a collective drive to catalyze opportunities that meet the evolving global needs of brands and retailers. This region’s extraordinary capabilities in synthetic materials, combined with a spirit of innovation, are helping shape the future of our sector. It is an honor to serve the SYFA membership and to help convene key thought leaders and experts at our biannual conferences. The knowledge shared and the connections made during these events continue to be of tremendous value to all who participate.”
Mark your calendars for the SYFA Fall 2025 conference, which will be held at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel November 6-7, 2025. TW
Dr. André West Shannan Billings Matthew Martin
Kim Glas Matthew Kolmes Stephanie Rodgers
Chip Hartzog
Michael Rübenhagen
Alasdair Carmichael
The third annual SYFAgolf tournament attracted 79 players vying for a variety of prizes while raising money for the Gaston College Textile Technology program scholarship fund.
ExecutiveForum
Textile World recently spoke to INDA’s Tony Fragnito and EDANA’s Murat Dogru about the Global Nonwoven Alliance (GNA).
INDA, EDANA
Joining Forces For Enhanced, Coordinated Strategy In
Global Nonwovens
LLast year,Cary,N.Cbased INDA,the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry,announced a collaboration with Brusselsbased EDANA,the Voice of Nonwovens.The two organizations signed a letter of intent committing to explore a strategic alliance to leverage their combined resources and expertise.
As discussions progressed,INDA and EDANA recognized the need for a new group,the Global Nonwoven Alliance (GNA),which is intended “to provide international leadership for the representation and responsible advancement of the global nonwovens industry while respecting and benefiting its members.”INDA and EDANA,the founding members of GNA,will continue to operate as independent legal entities
while also aligning resources and expanding collaboration to offer a coordinated strategy toward the opportunities and issues faced by the global nonwovens industry. The hope is that GNA will enhance programs,service, reach and efficiency.
As INDA and EDANA continue their discussions to hash out organizational details and develop a timeframe for GNA, TW had the opportunity to chat with INDA President and CEO Tony Fragnito and EDANA General Manager Murat Dogru.
TW : For those unfamiliar with INDA and EDANA,can you please provide a little background about the organizations.
Fragnito: INDA was formed in 1968 primarily to support roll goods manufacturers and a more
limited group in the supply chain.Since that time, we’ve evolved and as nonwovens have become more common and are found in everyday products as well as more durable products, our scope and focus has expanded to include those segments of the market. We cover the supply chain now and are evolving to cover more of the innovation in the industry.
Obviously,I think it’s an important aspect of an association to recognize the contributors to the industry and we have various awards programs tied to the individuals as well as innovative products.
We also deal with evolving issues that the industry is grappling with whether that be regulatory issues, innovations and materials science,or trade issues.In addition,we are trying to look ahead and anticipate
the issues that the industry will be involved with.
Dogru: It’s more or less the same thing for EDANA. We have existed for a little bit more than 50 years. Today we represent more than 260 members.All of our different activities are defined by three main pillars — create environment beneficial for innovation and growth,foster product stewardship,and advocate for free and fair trade.
We are an international association like INDA. We have members from all across the world,but our main focus remains in extended Europe.But we also have members based in Asia,the United States, and many members that are international companies.
Our field of expertise is really focused around eight fields — public affairs,regulatory affairs,activities around sustainability,busi-
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Murat DogruTony Fragnito
ness intelligence,trade, scientific affairs,also being a long learning partner for experts in the industry so learning and development,and everything that touches marketing and communication I would say.
EDANA represents the entire nonwoven supply chain from the raw material suppliers to the converters.When we say something and when we advocate for the industry, we have the full power behind us,the full positioning of the industry to be able to make a statement.It’s not easy,but that makes the strength of an association like EDANA or INDA because it’s the same methodology.
TW : How does INDA differ from EDANA, and how do the two organizations complement one another?
Dogru: Many,many common services is what Tony and I have been able to notice since we started talking.We have been really open about what we are,the challenges or services and we have been able to compare and quickly see that many things are mirroring themselves in Europe and in the United States. Events,training,technical affairs and market data for the industry for example. And if we are talking about say a trade show — we have IDEA and INDEX — we are learning from all the experiences that the participants and exhibitors
have.At the end,our purpose and objective is to give them the best experience ever at each IDEA and each INDEX show.
But at the same time, there is also some uniqueness in Europe and the United States.The level of scrutiny that we have in the U.S.or in Europe is sometimes different.I’m thinking of advocacy,for example.
does have two magazines that we publish — a fiber journal and a filtration journal — and Murat and I both see those as a strategic advantage to leverage on a global scale, so while it may be slightly different,it’s something that we both see as an opportunity to collaborate on and help grow,and maybe expand into other areas.
reality is it’s really equal at the table.If a company is interested in the issue,they are able to understand that things that are not happening in their back yard have the potential to influence how their business operates and they understand these are valuable perspectives to understand.When it comes to regional members,there was some concern voiced
And there is a uniqueness to each region.There are also some global challenges that we are working on hand in hand.
Fragnito: I think that’s true.The parallels of the topics that are important for our members are very much aligned.I would say the external pressures are a bit different.Europe is more active and advanced in their regulatory pressures around environmental issues where the United States is not quite as aggressive there.
There is a difference in services in one area,INDA
TW : How will you counteract a perceived “diluted effect”of smaller members?
Fragnito: Many of our members are regional and operate only within the U.S.or in Europe let’s say, but a large percentage have operations in multiple parts of the world.When we’re at the table as a trade association,everyone really has an equal voice,so our large, multinational members sit shoulder to shoulder with smaller,regional players. The perception a lot of time is that the big players really call all the shots,but the
about will we lose? will we dilute? and I think the reality is those members will actually see added value from this new formation. I think they will really have the opportunity to get their finger on these trends that could be impacting them a few years down the road.
TW : As an INDA member or an EDANA member, how will this change my longstanding relationship with my organization?
Fragnito: We actually think our members will see a higher value from engaging in both organizations.
(left to right): Tony Fragnito, president and CEO, INDA; Mikael Staal Axelson, CEO, Fibertex Personal Care and EDANA board chair; Mark Thornton, vice president, The Procter & Gamble Co. and INDA board chair; and Murat Dogru, general manager, EDANA.
Obviously,we can say that, but we have to prove it. I’m sure that we will. Our members have been I think very supportive of the idea.There is an ancient proverb“success has many fathers.”We’ve heard a lot of members saying“I said this should have happened years ago.”
Dogru: We can for example mention that there will be more extensive collaboration opportu-
INDA and EDANA and members of the organizations,and the power is in the hands of the board of each organization.
TW : How is the alliance organized?
Dogru: We do foresee this as a federation so where the initial members would be for sure INDA and EDANA.But it’s the creation of an organization where we are the initial
we respond to issues on the ground so that we have more consistency. I think both of our organizations believe that any global organization needs to be able to have fair and equal trading.It’s a global industry and people should be able to move products and services with minimal barriers.So it’s easy to make a statement like that,but when you start actually applying that
nities on global research projects,alignment on sustainability and circular economy initiatives,greater visibility for research through global communication and events.Will it be beneficial for everyone? Potentially not.But at least I would say there is a set of 30 to 40 things of added value that we can extract from this collaboration. And the aim is to make sure that each member will be able to see what is the most important for them and to take the specific value there.We are still independent as associations so internally,there is
members and this federation will not just be limited to INDA and EDANA,but be open to other trade associations across the globe.Again,there is added value of the more we are,the better it is.
Fragnito: The way that we see the organization being governed is that INDA will appoint six members to serve on the GNA board and EDANA will appoint six members as well.The focus of this GNA board will be to look at establishing the principles for the industry that then INDA and EDANA will use to help guide how
the hands of the members. The members are still electing people on the board of INDA and EDANA.Those elected people are of course setting the strategy of each association.In order to also be part of GNA, within that group they will be electing a certain number of people.So those people will have like an extended mandate in order to be able to discuss the topics that will be brought at the GNA level. There will be subjects that will remain at the INDA and EDANA level.As we have said,there are specific regional issues and there are topics and services that will be discussed at the GNA level.
TW : What are the goals of the alliance,and where do you think GNA will have the biggest impact?
to a situation on the ground or a particular perspective of a country,it gets a little bit more challenging.Establishing those high-level principals that we can then refer to as we deal with the issues on the ground,is helpful.Establishing different rules in different regions is not beneficial for any of the industry.It’s a lot easier to do that in the framework of GNA,and we’ve identified projects already that logically make sense to be under the GNA umbrella.
Dogru : To make it as simple as possible,the power is remaining in
Dogru: One thing I would like to say is we see GNA as something where the sky is the limit.It’s an open door for any other association to join us.You know,nonwovens is many different product applications.What we have seen is sometimes there are some other associations that exist that can bring a certain category of needs for some of our members. Maybe GNA can be this big federation and we can welcome with open arms all these other associations so that collaborate and convene.This is a dream when we look at the longterm vision.I really think we have just put in place
The INDABoard of Directors and EDANA Board of Directors gathered recently to continue progress in the collaboration between the two organizations and recommended incorporating the Global Nonwovens Alliance.
the first steps of what could be achieved.It has to be done correctly so that we are strong together.
TW : What is the timeline for aligning the organizations and launching GNA?
Dogru: Sooner is the best for sure.We are already well advancing and everything is happening. We want to be fair with you,as we have some timelines in mind,and I’d prefer not to make an official statement at this point. At the same time,the only thing that is important for us is that we do proper due diligence exercises and make sure that everything has been covered.
Fragnito: I think Murat alluded to this earlier,but we exist for our members and it’s been very important for us to keep our members moving with us. We don’t want to put any artificial timelines on this. We really want the members to feel comfortable with why we are doing this and how we are doing it and the implications of what we are doing.The more important thing is to have them fully on board and have them understanding the realities.
TW : Should there be reason to disengage from the alliance,is there a process in place?
Fragnito: I think we have to accommodate all possibilities.We’ve had some conversations about six and six,for example — how do you break a tie? We will have to deal with
those sorts of issues,but I think the reality of those being challenges for us are small.I think the odds of those sorts of things happening are small.I think if we have issues that our GNA board is really split on,I don’t think it will be a regional split with the U.S.voting this way and Europe voting the other way down some regional line.I think it would be for completely
believe this is what will happen,but we still need to be able to discuss it.And INDA and EDANA will be remaining,so if we have a challenge and a collapse — although for what reason I do not know,although who knows … maybe it will happen! — but INDA and EDANA will continue to exist and will still bring the value that they do today and even more in the future.
have the feeling that we are doing something rather unique here between the two associations and I am really excited by it.
Fragnito: The thing that I come back to is that it’s one thing to pay your dues and support the organization.But to really get the value out of the organization you need to be involved.The biggest thing for our members,big or small,is to commit individ-
different reasons with a disagreement or concern about a particular approach.We’ve accommodated things like ties, and what if one association is not finding the value in this,is there a way to disengage from the federation,and we’ve accommodated those things,but we do think the likelihood is minimal that those things will occur.
Dogru: Yes,all of those options have been discussed and put in place. I think while we have been considering all of the options,we have also considered what is the worst-case scenario if this thing doesn’t work.I don’t
TW : Any message would you like to share with the stakeholders in the global nonwovens industry about this alliance?
Dogru: I do think that the joining and strengthening of forces can only be helpful and supportive for the industry.By joining forces,we are strengthening the strength.It’s not just the supply chain,and it’s not just EDANA.It’s EDANA and INDA and whatever other association is going to join us later on. But with this opportunity, we are enlarging the potential group of this discussion,this group of collaboration,this group of what can happen.I do
uals and give them the time to engage in the activities of INDA,EDANA and GNA because that’s how they really influence the issues that we are grappling with and how we accomplish what we do with the limited staff.The issues that we take on for the industry are the ones that people bring to us.That’s how we really guide our resource allocation — by those members that are active and engaged. My message to members all the time is don’t write your check and wait for things to come to you.You really need to engage,you need to visible and you need to be seen in the organization to influence our agenda. TW
(left to right): Murat Dogru, Mikael Staal Axelsen, Mark Thornton and Tony Fragnito in Rome signing the EDANA/INDA Letter of Intent to explore a strategic alliance.
The recent collocated IDEA® and FiltXPO gathered the best and the brightest in the nonwovens and filtration industries in Miami Beach.
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INDA’s IDEA® & FiltXPO™
Foster “Get Stuff Done” Meetings, Business Development
TThe Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) recently closed the doors on the 2025 editions of the IDEA ® and FiltXPO ™ trade shows that were held concurrently in Miami Beach at the Miami Beach Convention Center. Featuring a show floor with more than 650 exhibitors, conference sessions, training options and awards ceremonies, the event highlighted the best of the nonwovens and filtration industries.
“The energy and engagement at IDEA and FiltXPO were outstanding,” said INDA President and CEO Tony Fragnito. “Seeing thousands of global leaders and innovators converge in Miami Beach underscores the vital importance of face-to-face interactions not just for project updates and business development but also for discussing industry challenges and opportunities. The quality of the attendees and the volume of business conducted are a powerful testament to the
IDEA®2025 Achievement Award Winners
In collaboration with Nonwovens Industry and International Filtration News magazines, awards were presented during IDEA and FiltXPO to outstanding innovations in nonwovens and filtration.
“The recipients of the IDEA and FiltXPO Awards exemplify the ingenuity and forward-thinking that drive our industries forward,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “Their groundbreaking products are not only shaping the future of nonwovens and filtration—they are redefining what’s possible. These innovations remind us that progress is built on vision, persistence, and a commitment to solving the challenges of tomorrow.”
Recipients of the 2025 IDEA Achievement Awards:
• IDEA Equipment Achievement Award — Germany-based Dilo Systems GmbH for its MicroPunch technology
• IDEA Nonwoven Products Achievement Award — Germany-based Innovatec Microfibre Technology GmbH & Co. KG for its InnovaWipe® Water-Soluble Nonwoven
• IDEA Raw Materials Achievement Award — New Zealandbased Woolchemy NZ Ltd. for neweFibre
• IDEA Short-life Achievement Award — Somerville, Mass.-based Egal Pads Inc. for its Egal™ Pads on a Roll
• IDEA Long-life Achievement Award — Charlotte, N.C.-based Magnera Corp. for the Sontara® EcoRE Bag
• IDEA Sustainability Advancement Award — South Africabased KINDCLOTH™ for the PURA HEALTH insect repellent water dissolvable wipes
industry’s interconnected supply chains and vibrant global industry outlook.”
Networking, Learning
On the show floor, Lightning Talk presentations helped drive traffic to the booths. FiltXPO also hosted a poster session to showcase the latest research and technologies from 23 companies.
An evening reception at the end of the first day provided a chance to network and meet old friends as well as new people in the industry.
• IDEA ® Entrepreneur Award — Chicago-based Dude Products Inc.
The 2025 FiltXPO Innovation Award winners were:
• FiltXPO Air/Gas Filtration Award — Johnson City, Tenn.-based Greentech Environmental LLC for Greentech Filters with ODOGard®
• FiltXPO Water/Liquid Filtration Award — Finland-based Ahlstrom for BioProtect™ material
• FiltXPO Filtration Equipment Award — Miami-based Filtration Advice Inc. for its FA-TCO software
Johann Phillipp Dilo, Dilo Group CEO
The two-day IDEA Sustainability in Nonwovens Conference brought global experts together to share perspectives on issues such as regulation, technology and product design. The FiltXPO Advances in Filtration Conference, produced in conjunction with the American Filtration and Separation Society, covered topics including circularity, indoor air quality, filtration media innovations and healthy buildings.
In addition, both shows hosted training options. IDEA offered its introduction to nonwovens and wet wipes course, as well as courses on baby and adult absorbent hygiene systems, and innovations in period products. A two-day Filter Media Training Course also was hosted on site for participants wanting to learn more about the world of filtration.
Over the three-day event, INDA also presented its IDEA Achievement Awards, FiltXPO Innovation, and IDEA Lifetime Achievement Award and INDA Lifetime Service Award (See sidebars).
“IDEA25 and FiltXPO 2025 truly exceeded expectations — not just in scale, but in substance,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education & Technical Affairs. “The quality of discussions, the depth of innovation on display, and the spirit of collaboration was readily apparent. My favorite feedback from an exhibitor, that was echoed by many, was that their week was packed with ‘get stuff done meetings.’ Expos like these, in conjunction with the in-depth technical conferences on filtration and sustainability in nonwovens, are an essential element of our industry.”
New Location For Next Edition Of IDEA
In a major move for IDEA — which has called Miami Beach home since 2001 save one edition — INDA announced that the next edition will be held in Kansas City, Mo. March 23-25, 2027. This date also marks a departure from its usual triennial timing to a new biennial schedule. The next FiltXPO will take place in Minneapolis, Minn., October 28-29, 2026. TW
Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, Lynda Kelly Receive Lifetime Awards
INDA presented its IDEA Lifetime Achievement Award to Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi and the INDA Lifetime Service Award to Lynda Kelly during an award ceremony in Miami Beach.
Dr. Pourdeyhimi is the executive director of The Nonwovens Institute at NC State in Raleigh, N.C. After earning a Ph.D. from the University of Leeds in England, he began his career in academia holding posts at NC State, Cornell University, The University of Maryland and the Georgia Institute of Technology. His storied career includes more than 600 research publications and three books, and more than 250 conference presentations. Dr. Pourdeyhimi also holds 30 U.S. and 65 international patents. Long a proponent of nonwovens, his return to NC State was driven by the opportunity to join The Nonwovens Cooperative Research Center, which under his leadership eventually evolved into The Nonwovens Institute, an open-innovation model facility that leads research initiatives for nonwovens. Dr. Pourdeyhimi also serves at the William A. Klopman Distinguished Professor of Materials, associate dean in the Wilson College of Textiles and is an affiliated professor in the department of Biomedical Engineering at NC State.
“I am deeply honored and humbled to receive this award,” Dr. Pourdeyhimi noted. “My journey has always been about pushing the boundaries of knowledge, innovation, and collaboration in nonwovens.
I’m grateful for the extraordinary colleagues, students, and industry partners who’ve shared this path and whose contributions have been essential to my achievements that are being recognized today.”
Retired since 2023, Kelly was most recently senior vice president, Americas & Business Development at Suominen Corp. She spent almost a decade with the company leading its Care team before overseeing the
Lynda Kelly (left) and Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi
Americas sales division. Prior to Suominen, Kelly worked for Kendall/ International Paper/BBA Nonwovens and First Quality Nonwovens.
Throughout her career, Kelly supported INDA initiatives and made lasting contributions to the nonwovens industry serving on the Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation (AAMI) medical disposable standards committee, and INDA’s Board of Directors.
“I am truly humbled and honored to receive the INDA Lifetime Service Award,” Kelly said. “Growing up in this amazing industry has been a remarkable journey, working alongside so many incredible colleagues across the globe to develop and sell unique nonwoven product solutions and technologies. As an industry, we have achieved so much over the decades, and I am proud to have been part of its evolution. It has truly been an incredible experience!”
“Behnam and Lynda exemplify the best of our industry — visionary, committed, and generous with their talents,” said Tony Fragnito, INDA president & CEO. “It’s a privilege to recognize their continuing impact and celebrate their contributions with the community they helped shape.
Wipe To Win: WOW Represents Wipes Ecosystem
TThe 18th World of Wipes ® (WOW) International Conference will take place July 21-24, 2025, at the Hilton Columbus Downtown in Columbus, Ohio.
Organized by the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), the annual event focuses on, you guessed it, wipes! From raw materials to manufacturing technologies and beyond, the entire wipes supply chain is represented at WOW. This year’s theme is “Wipe to Win: Innovating for a Sustainable and Profitable Future.”
According to INDA, areas of interest covered at WOW include: dry and wet wipes; circular economy initiatives; sustainability and end-of-life implications; substrate formation; skincare formulations; raw materials and ingredients; end-use markets; packaging innovations; machinery and equipment advances; market trends and consumer insights; regulatory updates; and e-commerce and retail channels.
“I had never been to the World of Wipes prior to joining INDA and it has really impressed me in how comprehensive it is,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Educa-
INDA’s 18th World of Wipes® International Conference will take place in Columbus, Ohio.
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tion & Technical Affairs. “It is probably the only event in the world where someone could source everything needed to put a wipe into the market from fibers and nonwovens, solution chemistries and formulations, converting machinery and testing equipment, and packaging options. That’s not to mention market intelligence, regulatory guidance, and product development and marketing consultants. The entire wipes ecosystem is represented.”
INDA touts WOW as a venue for manufacturers, converters and suppliers to connect, collaborate and explore. To that end, the event will focus on challenges and opportunities, U.S. manufacturing threats, tariff and regulatory threats, fiber sustainability, consumer perceptions fragrance trends, slitting innovations, and flushability, among other topics. Conference sessions include panel discussions and titles such as “From Forest
to Flush”; “Trends, Tushes & TikToks”; “Sniff, Save, Slice”; “No Plastic, No Problem”; and “Swipe Right.”
WOW also hosts two days of tabletop exhibits, including the Lightning Talks where tabletop exhibitors present five-minute product overviews. An evening reception allows for additional networking.
Hosted in conjunction with the conference and tabletop portion, the WIPES Academy two-day course held July 21-22 offers 12 expert-led sessions covering product conception through commercialization. Attendees may participate in the academy for an extra fee.
The World of Wipes Innovation Award®, to be announced on July 24, will recognize one winner from the submitted entries that leverages nonwoven fabrics or technologies within the entire wipes value chain to enhance wipe product functionality and expand the use of nonwovens. Eligible categories include raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives and end-use products. TW
For more information about WOW, please visit worldofwipes.org.
A Continued Glimpse Into The Future Of
Composites
JEC World’s Festival of Composites again offered participants an updated view of the industry’s global direction
By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor
and natural fibers could be found in a number of booths. Numerous other composite parts, components and applications from battery systems, hydrogen tanks and fiber-based rebar to bicycles, drones, boats, protective gear, and prosthetics were also found across the expo floor.
Previous Innovations Becoming Mainstream
AAn article published a few years ago in Textile World touted the JEC World expo as a look at the future of composites (See “A Legitimate Glimpse Into The Future Of Composites,” TW , May/June 2023). It was clear after attending JEC World 2025 held at the Paris-Nord Villepinte in Paris that JEC not only continues to provide a glimpse into the future of composite materials, but also remains pound-for-pound one of the best trade shows or events focused on advancing the composites industry as a whole. This year’s edition proved to be another recordbreaking affair as more than 1,350 international exhibitors welcomed more than “45,000 professional visits from 94 countries,” according to JEC’s post-show press release.
This year’s “festival of composites,” again featured representation from virtually every aspect of the composites industry’s supply chain with
numerous examples of current and future applications on display. The expo floor is laid out like a big city, where main street — or maybe since the event is in Paris, the ChampsÉlysées — houses the larger name brands in booths displaying the latest and greatest. However, also similar to a big city, one really must be sure to visit lesser-known boroughs and back streets because that’s where many of the hidden treasures are to be found.
Featured applications this year focused on the automotive industry and as such, general transportation and mobility applications were on display throughout the exhibit halls. In addition, there also were dedicated spaces featuring sporting goods and renewable energy applications, among end uses. As a result, it certainly felt like carbon fiber products and applications dominated the show, but also a solid presence from glass, basalt, polymer-based fibers
One observation from JEC World emerged after a discussion with Steve Clarke, business development manager and mentor for Woonsocket, R.I.based FMI Textiles (formerly known as TEAM Inc.) “It’s nice to see that the seeds of several innovative technologies viewed during previous JEC visits are now starting to gain traction and bear fruit,” Clarke offered, and this was evidenced throughout the expo floor. These innovations included continued recycling and sustainability initiatives, the increasing use of natural fibers in varied applications, fiber reinforced composite building materials, and continued advancements in fiber placement and large-scale 3D printing.
While still building support from many U.S.-based companies, sustainability, recycling and circularity efforts are now front and center and only continuing to gain in importance in Europe and elsewhere. JEC’s post show press release highlighted the “launch of the European Composites Circular Alliance on March 4th, which has European Commission support. Many strategic partnerships were signed during the expo with converging efforts of all stake holders, heading towards a sustainable future by creating a global statement and a tangible source of inspiration.” The Natural Fibers Village on the expo floor highlighted companies working with bio-based and renewable materials including flax and hemp, and wood fiber composite pieces, along with recyclable resin systems and new product applications.
came to the forefront of many discussions. As a result, “How are you guys planning to address possible tariffs with your customers?” was a question heard repeatedly during the event and in conversations between colleagues and companies up and down the global supply chain. Many in attendance either offered their opinion or simply expressed curiosity, frustration and/or concern about the prospect of tariffs from the United States and its potential effects on future business activities as well as the global economy in general.
Artificial Intelligence & Robotics
Artificial Intelligence (AI), robotics, modeling and production-enhancing software systems touting improved processing times, and cost savings continued to be of interest. Some examples of these systems could be found employed in various processing technologies, testing systems on display, as well as the improvements in the 3D-printing and fiber-placement systems previously mentioned.
Fiber reinforced composite building materials could be found throughout the expo hall in varied forms. Composite rebar and grid systems were found at different booths, and, according to Lee Berry — a product consultant for Basalt Uzbekistan, a basalt fiber manufacturer based in Uzbekistan — “Composite rebar, including those produced with basalt, is gaining favor in the building industry as a replacement for traditional steel rebar because it is noncorrosive and doesn’t degrade or rust when used. Composite rebar is significantly lighter in weight and easier to handle than traditional rebar making it much more cost effective to transport and work with on a daily basis.”
Large scale 3D printing technology grows more prevalent and was also on display at several booths in the form of unique furniture pieces,
and building models integrating wall structures with complex shapes and inclusions to support a myriad of needs and functionalities.
A Few Of This Year’s Notables
It doesn’t take long for a JEC World attendee, either a first timer or one who has participated multiple times, to realize how directly lives are now influenced by composite technologies and this year’s expo only amplified that growing level of influence. Yes, again there were many examples that provided the feeling of again being able to look at the future from many different directions.
However, politics and the potential for tariffs emanating from the United States were very much on the minds of most attendees and so
Italy-based Belotti —a manufacturer of three and five-axis computer numerically controlled (CNC) machining centers — used JEC World to introduce a new modular Automatic Riveting Cell (ARC) that may be configured to meet specific customer needs for use in automotive and aerospace composite assemblies.
Georg Sahm GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, introduced its new 460XE winder for composite materials. Mark Easley, sales manager for American Starlinger-Sahm Inc. in Fountain Inn, S.C., offered that “This winder works well with sensitive materials including fiber tapes and multifilament yarns or tows and it can be constructed with add-ons specific to customer needs.”
Germany-based Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG, showcased its FIMA Bond system, which previously won the JEC World Innovation Award. “The FIMA Bond system is used to accurately prepare and measure the adhesion of fibers to a
Clockwise from top: Textechno’s Roving Test modular system; a Boston Dynamics Robot; composite pipe cross sections; and a wood composite bicycle frame represented a portion of the objects on display at JECWorld 2025.
matrix or resin system, which is needed by engineers and designers to develop consistent composite applications,” said Mark Reese, president of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Measured Solutions, the Textechno representative in North America. Among other technologies on display in Textechno’s booth was its RovingTest, a modular system that can be configured to a customer’s specifications for accurately measuring the processing properties of rovings.
A variety of enhanced resin systems and varied chemistries were prominent throughout the exhibit hall. Several touted their environmental friendliness, sustainability and recyclability enhancements while others offered increased performance in numerous ways. One resin system getting a lot of attention was Stamford, Conn.-based Hexcel Corp.’s M949, a new iteration of prepreg chemistry targeted for use in automotive applications where cosmetics are highly desired such as woven carbon panel composites with a glossy finish found on many high-performance vehicle parts in the transportation sector, for example. Racing vehicles and prototypes for electric vertical take-off and landing (eVTOL) vehicles immediately come to mind as an application for this technology. “M949 is a toughened epoxy resin with a higher glass transition temperature that provides better part toughness,” noted Austin Conner, a sales engineer at Hexcel. “It also has a useable shelf life of 21 weeks at room temperature and as such, does not have to be kept in a freezer, which is very appealing to our customers. And the enhanced chemistries provide better cosmetics on the cured part, ideal for applications requiring a clean surface finish.”
Innovation Awards
JEC World again presented its Innovation Awards for “cuttingedge, creative projects which demonstrate the full potential of composite materials.” Several deserving products, projects and technologies were
announced from a list of this year’s finalists. For a look at all of the JEC World 2025 Innovation Award winners, visit jec-world.events/program/ innovation-awards.
After attending a number of different trade shows and expos, one begins to identify characteristics that in general make a good event or not. This year’s iteration of JEC World was indeed a well-run event as appreciated by many in attendance. Lauren Hickey, global market manager for Cincinnati-based Michelman, a manufacturer of waterbased coatings and surface modifiers, reported that: “JEC World has been a good show for us. It’s unique in that it provides the opportunity to meet with customers from all over the world and gain unique global perspectives in one event.”
Sahm’s Easley added that JEC World is a “great show for us to help
grow our global presence due to the number and variety of existing and potential customers that attend.”
Measured Solutions’ Reese, when asked about his impression of JEC World suggested simply: “You know, I’ve been coming to JEC for years and truly don’t understand why more people from the United States don’t attend this event. I feel like if you’re active in the composites field, you have to be at JEC. You don’t have to attend every year, but you do have to attend. JEC continues to be the biggest, best and most influential gathering for the composites industry. It really is a fantastic event and somehow, they just keep making it better!”
Could not agree more, and yes, it really is a festival of composites.
The JEC World 2026 will return to the Paris-Nord Villepinte in Paris March 10-12, 2026. TW
Carbon’s usage in composite applications was on display throughout the show floor.
Dynamic
Showcase, Industry Resilience And Karaoke: Inside
Techtextil North America & Texprocess Americas 2025
The collocated events delivered a positive vibe despite tariffs and other economic concerns.
TW Special Report
France-based Lectra held demonstrations at its booth during Texprocess Americas. The company recently introduced the Valia Fashion digital platform powered by Industry 4.0 technologies.
Unified Exhibit Floor, Plenty To Experience
The combined Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas exhibitors provided a comprehensive look at the textile supply chain from raw materials and machinery to finished goods and supporting services. The show floor featured a showcase of the latest technologies, live demonstrations and the educational Tech Talks sessions. This year’s Tech Talks sessions were organized by Casey Strauch, Hohenstein Institute America, Melissa Sharp, Zeis Textiles Extension, Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker, and Jasmine Cox-Wade, Gaston College, who, according to Messe Frankfurt, helped bring some fresh perspective to the talks.
TTechtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2025, held recently at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta, showcased the best of the technical textiles and sewn products industry from almost 400 exhibitors from 28 countries. No visitor numbers were released by the show organizer Messe Frankfurt Inc., Atlanta, but it’s fair to say attendance was strong based on the number of people observed on the show floor and the general loud buzz in the halls.
“It’s inspiring to see such a diverse, dynamic community coming together under one roof,” said Sarah Hatcher, group show director for Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas. “This event is about more than what’s on display. It’s about the energy of discovery, the exchange of ideas and the relationships that drive this industry forward.
Techtextil North America is incorporated with ATME-I, and Texprocess Americas is coproduced by
Raleigh, N.C.-based SPESA — the industry association for suppliers to the sewn products industry.
“We’re incredibly pleased with the success of Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America!” said SPESA President Michael McDonald. “There were more new exhibitors and first-time attendees than we’ve seen in recent years, which exemplifies the importance of these collocated shows. It also serves as a reminder that the industry is resilient and eager to build production processes closer to home.
“It has always been our mission for Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America to be an essential gathering place for people to better understand the vast soft goods manufacturing ecosystem that exists in the Americas. Whether it was through show floor networking, the Opening Night Reception, or the multitude of educational offerings, I’m confident that we achieved that goal.”
The symposium sessions, held away from the show floor in a classroom setting and available for an extra fee, offered visitors a deeper dive into education with both Techtextil North America and Texprocess hosting industry experts speaking on a variety of hot-button topics of importance to the industry including policy.
“I really liked the Symposium… it [had] a wide variety of [people] and speakers and I think it was great [to have] options of what might be interesting, and also [to learn] more about what other parts of the industry are doing… there was a [session] about recycled materials that I thought was amazing,” said Under Armour’s Stephanie Minite.
Innovation Awards
The Innovation Awards, presented on the show floor, honored companies and technologies that are groundbreaking and intelligent, sustainable and creative.
“The Innovation Awards continue to be a highlight of the show,” said
Alexis Sivcovich, show manager, Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas. “This year’s winners proved that the future of our industry is not only bright — it’s already here.”
Unifi Inc., Greensboro, N.C., was awarded the Best New Technology prize by Techtextil North America. On the Texprocess Americas side, Terrebonne, Québec-based Automatex Inc. won the Best New Technology & Digitalization award for its automated fitted sheet sewing and folding line; Tokyo-based JUKI won the Best New Technology award for its JUKI DX-01 lockstitch sewing system; and Alpharetta, Ga.-based Aptean Inc. won the Best New Concept prize for its Aptean Shop Floor Control.
“Receiving this award means a lot to us having been in the industry for many years,” said Per Bringle, senior manager, Aptean. “Increasing the efficiencies in productivity is just more important than ever right now. We really appreciate the recognition for the tools that we have developed to help manufacturers automate, shrink costs, and become more efficient. Bringing these technologies to the table to keep the margins intact and create greater throughput is needed now more than ever.”
Well-Attended Reception
An opening-night reception cohosted by Messe Frankfurt and SPESA, and promoted by the Alphabet Soup Collective of textile organizations was a sold-out affair. Many show participants who waited to buy a ticket were disappointed to learn they could not get in the day of the reception. The event offered good food, continued networking and liveband karaoke for those brave enough to get up and sing.
Participants’ Point-Of-View
The ever-changing tariff issues loomed large, but seemed to have little impact on the success of the show. In fact, most participants spoke highly of numerous business
Clockwise from top left: Messe Frankfurt’s Alexis Sivcovich (left), Unifi’s Meredith Boyd (center) and Xochil Herrera Scheer, The Chicago Pattern Maker at the Innovation Awards ceremony; Karaoke was a big draw during the opening reception; A Tech Talk given by representatives from the Alphabet Soup Collective explained the idea behind the collective to the audience.
opportunities that were discussed during the three-day event.
“Techtextil North America in Atlanta was one of the best for Mehler Engineered Products,” said Jim Briggs, Mehler’s general manager for North America. “We had numerous meetings on new and existing business. We also met several engineers to discuss product designs for future developments. This is a testimony to the quality of the attendees at the event, as well as the work we put into setting up technical discussions in advance.” Briggs also noted that as a Germany-based company, Mehler books a booth in the Germany Pavilion, which offers the company additional resources during Techtextil North America.
Spartanburg, S.C.-based Symtech Inc.’s CEO Per Olofsson echoed Briggs’ comments. “We had lots of excellent discussions with both current and new customers from all over the country,” he reported.
Pa., usually attends the show as a visitor. However, “We exhibited this year and found it to be very worthwhile,” Rawson said. “We generated some very good leads for some of the new business we are promoting in aramids and carbon fibers. We found a lot of interest in our recycling and sustainability programs as we are making felts using recycled carbon fibers for use in prepregs for lightweight structures.” Rawson also noted there was a strong presence from Europe at the show. “I believe there will be a lot more cooperation between the United States and European countries due to fears of relying solely on China as a supplier,” he said. “The general mood was positive from customers and suppliers who are confident that tariffs will get sorted out, but more importantly, new opportunities will come to the surface.”
The next Techtextil North America will take place next in Raleigh, N.C., August 4-6, 2026. The collocated Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America will return to Atlanta May 11-13, 2027. TW
e.dye® yarn cards illustrating just some of the color possibilities with the solution-dyeing system developed by the company
e.dye® Solution-Dyeing
Technology System: Better Color For A Better World
Using a proven industrial process to color synthetic yarns are they are extruded, e.dye® offers a more sustainable alternative to traditional chemical dyeing while also improving color performance.
TW Special Report
upholstery, where limited color choices and high minimum color quantities (MCQs) are acceptable. However, the demands of the fashion industry necessitated crucial upgrades to this process, including reduced MCQs and a broader range of colors.
The e.dye® Color System
The e.dye Color System represents a transformative approach to coloring polyester and nylon yarns, leveraging solution- or dope-dyeing technology. This industrial process involves coloring yarns as they are extruded, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional chemical dyeing methods. e.dye addresses the environmental impact of dyeing and enhancing color performance, paving the way for better color solutions.
SSolution dyeing is nothing new, but Hong Kong-based e.dye ® Ltd. was formed by George Yang to develop a robust and sustainable solution for textile colorization in the fashion industry using solution dyeing. Yang’s vision to grow the company was to create more colors as well as sharable color recipes, and the initial effort that began in 2012 with six colors has grown into a library of approximately 10,000 color recipes.
e.dye operates an Innovation Center in China, e.dye Kunshan Ltd., that offers a color lab, testing facility, and pilot and production lines for its solution-dyed Waterless Color System™. The company also owns two SMARTEX™ production facilities — Smartex Solution Co. Ltd. in China, and Smartex Solution Taiwan Ltd. in Taiwan — where the masterbatch is made. Smartex also is e.dye’s captive converter of textiles.
U.S. Footprint
e.dye Americas Inc. was spun off from the parent company in October 2024. It is a free-standing corporation based in Portland, Ore., with Michael Murphy at the helm as the sole shareholder currently. “We created e.dye Americas in response to our customers asking for more on-shore, near-shore sourcing for reasons of saving transportation costs and pollution,” Murphy said. “It has also been useful in addressing the current tariff chaos!”
Murphy continued: “We have a unique capability to develop sustainable, long-lasting colors by deploying our vast library of color recipes to translate color from the designer’s mind into reality. We offer and can implement an entire supply chain solution, not simply create a color.”
Evolution Of Solution Dyeing
Solution dyeing has long been utilized in the production of carpets and
Through innovation and adaptation, e.dye has bridged the gap between traditional solution dyeing and the demands of modern textile industries. Central to this transformation is the development of SMART Colors™ and the ESP™ System, which collectively streamline the process of color creation. SMART Colors, with its curated palette, provides versatility and efficiency, enabling designers and manufacturers to respond swiftly to changing market trends. Meanwhile, the ESP System empowers brands with precision tools to refine their color strategies, ensuring a seamless integration of sustainability and performance.
Challenges In Color Matching And Consistency
Most brands encounter significant hurdles with current dyeing techniques, including poor color matching, consistency and colorfastness. These challenges often lead to product returns and unsaleable goods, particularly when colors bleed onto lighter shades during shipment or retail sales. e.dye’s advanced online color selection ESP System and its almost 10,000 searchable colors facilitates faster color development times, improved shade matching, and enhanced consistency, enabling brands to overcome common color failures.
Enhancements Through The ESP™ System
The digital ESP System serves as a cornerstone of e.dye’s advanced solution dyeing process. This platform enables brands to select existing color recipes for masterbatch colors — the foundational color ingredient in solution dyeing. By offering preconfigured recipes and streamlined color development pathways, the ESP System empowers brands to achieve superior results in record time. Additionally, it fosters collaboration and precision, ensuring that each color meets stringent standards for quality and consistency.
SMART Colors™
SMART Colors curated selection of pre-developed colors is available in a versatile yarn size — 75 denier/72 filament draw textured yarn (DTY). These SMART Colors allow brands to accommodate quick production cycles and lower MCQs, ensuring greater adaptability to market demands.
“By locating roughly 10,000 color recipes and performing commercial trials in the L*a*b* color space, we can easily offer brands quick turns on possible matches for any custom color,” Murphy said. “There are many things to consider when using solution dyeing — it’s not a simple buy-sell proposition. Of course, through the entire process, we identify which color recipe may be the most sustainable, the best performing with regards to color fastness and consistency, the cheapest, and the recipe with the lowest working loss percentage in terms of lowest colorant dosing and highest strength in bulk yarn production.”
Sustainable, Trusted Solution
Brands often face a difficult dilemma with colorization — whether to adhere to a traditional water-dye technology or to seek a more sustainable path. The solution dyeing approach eliminates this compromise by achieving both goals. By utilizing zero water during the yarn colorization process, reducing chemi-
Dosing
and
Clockwise from top left: Measuring and blending colored masterbatch with uncolored polyester chip; a blended mixture about to enter the extruder; the extruded, solutiondyed yarns; an illustration of the solution-dyeing process.
cal usage, and lowering the carbon footprint, it offers an environmentally responsible alternative without sacrificing quality or performance.
To address any concerns that may arise, the process is backed by robust, third-party verification systems, including bluesign®, which certifies the chemical and yarn manufacturing stages. This transparency reinforces trust, enabling brands to confidently adopt a sustainable yet efficient model of textile colorization.
e.dye brand partners currently
include Oslo-based clothing and sports equipment company Helly Hansen, Switzerland-based manufacturer of alpine sport clothing and equipment Mammut, Italy-based clothing company Paul & Shark Yachting and Sweden-based apparel company Oscar Jacobson.
Core Benefits of e.dye® Technology
According to Murphy, e.dye offers a variety of benefits to apparel manufacturers:
Masterbatch
Raw PET Chips
Spinning Yarns (Color is inside the yarn)
Heat Extrusion
•Improved Color Performance: e.dye technology enhances colorfastness, ensuring colors retain their vibrancy and durability over time.
•Enhanced Consistency: By setting high standards for color matching with a target of DE 0.8 or under, e.dye drastically reduces inconsistencies. In contrast, traditional techniques often result in variances as high as DE 6.0, as noted during the 2024 AATCC Design Summit.
•Faster Color Development: Brands benefit from accelerated approval processes and development timelines, minimizing delays in production cycles.
•Sustainability: By offering a more environmentally friendly alternative to chemical dyeing, e.dye contributes to a better world, aligning with core values of ecological responsibility.
Financial Incentives, Costs
According to Murphy: “With effective strategic planning, clear core color alignment, and strong commitment, it’s possible to construct a compelling argument for enhancing inventory turnover by shortening development and production timelines by up to 12 weeks.” These reduced lead times could translate into higher inventory turns and improved return on investment.
Sustainability directors with major brands and retailers often argue that there is no such thing as a “green tax.” Many believe that consumers are unwilling to pay a premium for sustainable textile products 1. While this perspective is open to debate, the solution dye approach, when paired with an effective design and development strategy, can achieve cost parity or even lead to small cost savings. This approach is borne out
by multiple deliveries to the world’s largest retailer, according to Murphy.
The e.dye process also helps reduce costs that are often overlooked on traditional fabric cost sheets. These reductions include expenses associated with maintaining global offices to audit dye house color-matching capabilities, lengthy color development timelines, four- to six-week colorization lead times, and losses resulting from returns due to inadequate color fastness. Additionally, poor color performance can harm brand reputation — an intangible, but critical cost.
Fundamental Question
A reasonable inquiry might be, “If this process enhances color performance and significantly reduces the environmental impact of textile colorization, why hasn’t it been universally adopted?”
According to Murphy, one major obstacle for any transformative shift is overcoming resistance within various brand functions — such as designers, colorists and textile developers — to adapt and rethink their established practices. “Current design and development workflows are deeply rooted in traditional colorization methods, which date back to the 1650s and rely on water, chemicals, and heat to color finished textiles,” Murphy noted.
In addition, this approach of course requires a transformation in process for fabric manufacturers. “It’s a paradigm shift in process thinking,” Murphy acknowledged. “The success of solution-dyed fabrics will require a strategic partnership between brand and supplier.
“But keep in mind that preposition in masterbatch color and yarn color requires color forecast and volume forecast ahead of time,” Murphy continued. “If these two forecasts are in place when a brand places an order with the sewing factory, then a fabric producer can immediately begin production and save six weeks that would be required for color samples and dyeing time.”
It’s also possible to use a yarn color in multiple fabric styles. “This requires
e.dye has a lab to conduct tests on yarns and finished textiles.
Color prediction software used in research and development at e.dye.
a strategic plan of design to color to yarn in color to fabrics in color to commodity,” Murphy added. “In order to get the e.dye process adopted, we need to work across development ‘silos’ and get buy-in from a supply chain that is committed to sustainability.”
Future Outlook
The company is currently collaborating with the NC State Wilson College of Textiles, Raleigh, N.C. e.dye is using the school’s extrusion lab to execute color trials for approval in the United States. The eventual goal is to establish a pilot facility in the United States for e.dye.
Another goal is to achieve scale, according to Murphy. “We need scale, not only to drive down costs but to move the needle as far as water, chemical and carbon dioxide savings are concerned,” he said. “Our objective is clear — ‘to make sustainability the easy choice’ as noted by Doug McMillon at the 2024 Walmart Sustainability Milestone Summit. For Walmart, and everyone else, that means a sustainable option cannot be more expensive. In fact, if we design the products and industrial processes correctly — using fewer energy inputs, for example — why can’t
the sustainable solution also be the cheapest?”
Among e.dye’s strengths, Murphy notes the COLOR JOURNEY ™ .
“Through our own captive SMARTEX textile converters located in China and Vietnam, e.dye has the capability to demonstrate to a brand the ‘journey’ color makes from color conception and design to yarn and textile creation right through to commodity production,” Murphy said. “If a brand cooperates, we can show them how to increase efficiency across what we call the yarncolor platform. We can build an intelligent, plan-full approach to color yarn and fabrics where transparency is the key.”
The e.dye solution-dyeing process embodies a paradigm shift in the textile industry, merging innovation, sustainability and performance. By addressing longstanding challenges in color matching, consistency, and environmental impact, e.dye equips brands with the tools they need to succeed in a competitive market.
With a vision for a better world, e.dye is working to redefine the possibilities of color technology. TW
References:
1This assumption has been called into question by recent tariff changes, with brands increasingly being asked to absorb these additional costs in the name of creating a more level playing field.
Clockwise from top left: e.dye won an ISPO 2024 Top Product award for its uniform crafted entirely from polyester including the fabric, buttons, sewing and embroidery threads and labels in a mono-material concept; a hangtag program allows cobranding and a QRcode shares information with a consumer about the product; e.dye samples from pellet to fabric.
New Horizons For Monforts Partners In Pakistan
Monforts continues to gain significant repeat orders for its equipment from Pakistan’s major vertically-integrated textile manufacturers as they seek to both expand and diversify into new markets.
By Adrian Wilson
New Monforts Thermex continuous dyeing range at the Artistic Milliners Art Mill finishing plant. (Image courtesy of Artistic Milliners)
with an operational factory in Los Angeles, we are developing a stateof-the-art design and production hub based on Supply Chain 4.0 principles,” explained Murtaza Ahmed, founder of SFI and executive director at Artistic Milliners.
The demand for nearshoring in the United States continues to be driven by the need for shorter lead times, reduced carbon footprint and greater supply chain resilience. Consequently, in September 2024, Artistic Milliners announced the further acquisition of Dickies de Parras, a denim manufacturer based in Parras, Mexico, to raise its Americas production to 5 million pairs of jeans per year.
NML’s New Thermex
MMonforts customers in the regionsaround Pakistan’s three biggest cities of Karachi, Lahore and Faisalabad include all of the main players in the fields of home textiles and denim production.
“These companies rely on our established technologies including Montex stentering equipment, Monfortex sanforizing units and Thermex dyeing ranges,” said Monforts Area Sales Manager Manfred Havenith. “As they look to new markets in today’s highly competitive industry, we continue to assist them with trials and optimized processing parameters in developing advanced fabrics for a wide range of end-uses, both at their own plants and at our Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Germany.”
Nearshoring
Karachi-headquartered denim powerhouse Artistic Milliners, for example, recently ordered two new Montex tenter frames, along with a new Thermex continuous dyeing
range and a Monfortex sanforizing line from Monforts for its new Art Mill finishing plant.
Artistic Milliners currently has an annual production capacity of 108 million meters of fabric and 30 million garments, and fabric dyeing and finishing is naturally central to the company’s operations. It produces more than 500 shades of denim, along with applying a myriad different texture and surface treatments.
In other recent expansion and diversification initiatives, in 2020 Artistic Milliners acquired Star Fades International (SFI), a denim factory in Commerce, Calif., providing it with a strategic foothold in the United States and the capacity to meet increased demand from international retailers and brands for nearshoring capacity, digital design services and sustainable solutions.
“California has historically been an important cornerstone for the international denim industry and as the first Pakistan denim company
Geographical expansion alongside product diversification also are priorities for Lahore-headquartered home textiles leader Nishat Mills Ltd. (NML), another long-standing Monforts customer which is currently installing a new Thermex dyeing range — the company’s fourth.
“More than 40 Thermex continuous dyeing ranges have been installed in Pakistan in recent years and we have achieved considerable success with our Econtrol system, which is a most effective and established dyeing
Monforts Area Sales Manager Manfred Havenith.
process,” Havenith said. “Operator training on the Econtrol process by sophisticated technologists is an additional service we provide.”
Bespoke Solutions
NML, established in 1951, also now operates eight Montex tenters and three Monfortex sanforizing units. With more than 251,800 spindles and 7,320 rotors at seven spinning units, it has a daily production capacity of 270 tons of cotton and blended yarns and produces around 30 million square meters of fabric each month on 931 modern air-jet looms.
Its fabric processing facility is one of the largest and most modern in Pakistan, with an array of bespoke machinery and the capacity to dye and fully finish an annual 104 million meters of fabric. The facility is specially designed to handle heavy weight fabrics such as twills, canvases and poplins, as well as stretch fabrics and high-density weaves.
In recent moves, Nishat has established a wholly owned subsidiary in Türkiye as well as offices in Bangladesh and the United Kingdom, and has also acquired Denmark-based fabric maker Wernerfelt. Wernerfelt supplies performance fabrics for personal protection and workwear, specializing in flame retardant modacrylic blends made with flame-retardant properties as well as high visibility textiles, breathable, waterproof laminates and other fabrics made for industrial use.
“This collaboration heralds a new phase in the evolution of Nishat Group,” said CEO Umer Mansha.
UK Input
Workwear is also now a major business for Sapphire Textile Mills, a second Lahore-based company and Monforts Thermex customer.
Since 2021, Sapphire has been involved in Carrington Textiles International, a dyeing and finishing joint venture with the UK’s Carrington Textiles providing up to 50 million meters a year of specialized fabrics to a wellestablished global customer base.
With a legacy of more than 130years, Carrington Textiles and its dyeing and finishing partner company Pincroft — also a Monforts customer — supply workwear and protective clothing to some of the biggest corporate companies in the world. These companies include Airbus, Arcelor Mittal, BP, BUPA, Coca Cola, Jaguar Land Rover, McDonald’s, Shell and TATA Steel. The two UK companies also supply millions of meters of fabric to the armed forces of many countries.
“Carrington Textiles International is an excellent project we are excited to be part of, and we are pleased our longstanding relationship with Carrington Textiles has developed into this joint venture,” said Sapphire’s COO Nabeel Abdullah
Workwear based on high performance blended fabrics and flameretardant materials is also now a growing sector of Sapphire’s own portfolio, alongside home textiles, sportswear and denim.
Principles
“The Monforts commitment to customer service is based on four principles — being helpful, accurate, fast and reliable,” Havenith notes in conclusion. “We have a reputation for quickly and efficiently dispatching spares and components, and online support is always available when needed.
“We have also worked with Al Ameen, our valued partner in Pakistan for over 40 years and this close cooperation, along with constant R&D and machine innovations — both in terms of productivity and energy savings — has allowed Monforts to build an 80percent market share for stenters in Pakistan and to retain it for a number of decades. We remain dedicated to the ongoing success of our valued customers in Pakistan.” TW
Editor’s Note: Adrian Wilson is an England-based analyst and writer specializing in the technical textiles, nonwovens and composites industries. He is the owner of AWOL Media.
Nishat Mills (NML) has acquired Denmark-based workwear maker Wernerfelt. ( Image courtesy of Wernerfelt)
Sapphire Textile Mills now has a dyeing and finishing joint venture with the UK workwear specialist Carrington Textiles.
(Image courtesy of Carrington)
Surfer and Outerknown Co-Founder
Kelly Slater testing the Apex Evolution Trunks.
Outerknown: Minds Forever On The Sea
Outerknown partnered with Bureo to develop its Apex Evolution Trunks, transforming ocean waste into next-level surf apparel.
By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
communities via Bureo’s incentivized NetPlus recycling program. This prevents the old nets from ending up in the environment.
Bureo then sorts, cleans, shreds and packs the collected nets before sending them to Bureo’s recycling partners. There, the nylon nets undergo a depolymerization process where they are broken down into their chemical building blocks. This process also removes any dyes and impurities from the nylon. The building blocks are then used to construct 100-percent NetPlus nylon pellets that can be extruded into high-quality yarns.
PPerhaps there is no one more suited than an 11-time world champion surfer — someone with an intimate relationship with the oceans and great outdoors — to establish a sustainable apparel brand. Pro surfer Kelly Slater along with Creative Director John Moore founded the Outerknown brand in 2015 with a goal to design and sell wardrobe staples that protect natural resources and focus on responsible sourcing practices, among other commitments.
“Everything we make is designed with great intent and purpose, and we’ll always make the most responsible design and development choices as it relates to our materials and the suppliers who share our values and take care of their workers,” Moore noted.
According to the company, Outerknown’s current collections are made using 99 percent preferred fibers — which includes organic, Regenerative Organic Certified®, recycled, regenerated and biobased materials.
Apex Evolution Trunks
Outerknown’s recent introduction — the Apex Evolution Trunks — feature NetPlus® fiber created from 100-
percent-post-consumer recycled fishing nets. The fiber, produced by Bureo, also is 100-percent traceable. The woven fabric is 90-percent NetPlus/10percent spandex. According to Outerknown, the trunks — three years in the making — represent the first four-way stretch boardshorts made using postconsumer recycled fishing nets.
“Continual progression is in our brand’s lifeblood, so it’s only natural that we were inspired to take the highest performance trunk ever made [first-generation Apex trunks] and make it even better,” Moore said. “With our minds forever on the sea, we teamed up with our friends at Bureo to utilize their unmatched NetPlus material made from recycled fishing nets. This yielded a truly responsibly made trunk with a little more substance than the first Apex without compromising any performance qualities.”
Bureo’s NetPlus®
Bureo, a certified B-Corporation, developed NetPlus to reduce the harmful impacts of fishing waste on the oceans. Discarded fishing nets are collected directly from fishing
“The entire process, from collection through recycling, is third-party audited and certified for material traceability,” said David Stover, CEO and co-founder, Bureo. “Utilizing NetPlus material empowers fishing communities around the world by providing waste management infrastructure, employment opportunities, and nonprofit funding. Bureo continues to scale NetPlus material to provide a preferred recycled input for performance fabrics, lowering emissions and reducing reliance on virgin materials.”
Fabric Development
For the Apex Trunk, Bureo worked with Outerknown to develop the fabric construction to ensure the performance characteristics were achieved. “This was an iterative process that incorporated significant field testing and adjustments to stretch and finishing to meet the performance and hand feel requirements,” Stover said. “The yarn texture and weaving of the fabric being the main contributors to the desired functionality. We were focused on building a more durable boardshort material with structure, while not compromising performance.”
“Developing a boardshort material for Kelly has been an incredibly rewarding experience for the entire Bureo team,” said Bureo Co-Founder and CTO Kevin Ahearn. “We were able to work closely with the Outerknown team to perfect the fabric blend to ensure it’s durable enough for the demanding spots Kelly surfs,
but still super lightweight, with the right amount of stretch to be comfortable for long days in the ocean; we’re thrilled to now share it with the industry.”
Construction Details
The fiber composition and fabric design were not the only details considered when creating the Apex Evolution Trunks. Construction details were thoughtfully planned and designed to meet Slater’s design requests, which included an improved no-slip drawcord; a waistband that cinched without bunching; and thread-free, ultrasonically bonded seams that are more comfortable and prevent chafing.
“We envision and design everything in-house and develop in close partnerships with our global supplier partners who share our responsible mission,” Moore emphasized. “All our suppliers are thoroughly vetted and approved.”
Once designs are conceptualized and produced using computer-aided design software in-house, Outerknown builds tech packs that it sends to supplier partners. Next, all material selections are made and developed with mill partners, making sure the products meet Outerknown’s preferred fiber guidelines. Prototypes are refined for fit over multiple rounds to ensure garment comfort and sizing before samples are weartested by a team of brand ambassadors. Using feedback from the wear-tests, Outerknown finalizes all manufacturing details before moving the garment into production. “Our responsible buying practices dictate the flow of our calendar all the way through delivery,” Moore said.
“When designing, every decision we make is deliberate and extremely considered down to the smallest details and trims,” Moore Said. “Nothing is overlooked. This takes time as exemplified by the three-plus years of R&D to find the right NetPlus weight and construction for the performance standards of the APEX Evolution launch, and the end result
Washed and sorted fishing nylon fishing nets are shredded (top) and prepped for depolymerization before they are turned into NetPlus nylon pellets (above).
(Images courtesy of Bureo)
Right: The Outerknown Apex Evolution Trunks
is always something we stand by — the best we can do right now, and we’ll always strive to be better with every new product.”
Future Use of NetPlus
Slater’s Verdict
Outerknown has a long-standing partnership with Bureo for incorporating NetPlus. The brand first used NetPlus in hat brims in 2021 and continues to use the material in its headwear. NetPlus also is currently featured in puffers and jackets sold by Outerknown. Moore noted that it will be featured in some lifestyle bottoms the brand plans to introduce next year. “We will continuously look for more product to incorporate Net-
According to Outerknown, the APEX Evolution Trunk is one of the most successful launches in the brand’s history.
“After three years of dialing in the details, these trunks are really impressive,” Slater said. “Big improvements. Better fit, better length, a great scallop on the side for room in the leg. The materials hold up better too, and the string tie holds up great and doesn’t come undone. I’m confident these are the best trunks ever made.” TW
All-In-One Textile Sourcing Platform
TTexworld New York City (NYC) will return to the Javits Center in New York City July 23-25, 2025.
The global textile and fabric sourcing event, held biannually in New York City and organized by Atlanta-based Messe Frankfurt Ltd., will be collocated with sister shows Apparel Sourcing New York City and Home Textiles Sourcing New York City, forming a comprehensive shopping platform for those looking for fabrics, apparel and home and other soft goods. As an additional draw for visitors, Printsource @ Texworld, a surface and textile design show, will run concurrently at the Javits Center in partnership with Texworld NYC.
Texworld NYC exhibitors showcase the latest in fabrics from basics up to unique fiber blends, innovative fabric structures and on-trend color palettes.
Apparel Sourcing NYC, a joint venture between Messe Frankfurt and China-based Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT-Tex), focuses on finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development. Suppliers specializing in ready-to-wear collections for men, women and children will exhibit their latest apparel and accessories.
Collocated events — Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC, Home Textiles Sourcing NYC and Printsource — will bring the best in fabric, apparel, home textiles and design to the Javits Center this July.
TW Special Report
Home Textiles Sourcing NYC highlights new fabrics and products for home collections to manufacturers, retailers, jobbers, converters, contract specifiers and designers.
Trend forecasts also are at the heart of Texworld NYC. This year’s Trend Theme showcase and presentation is curated by New York Citybased trend agency DONEGAR | TOBE. A deep dive into the emerging trends and innovative fabrics will be presented during a Textile Talk. Participants may also take the guided Explore the Floor Tour to view up close the curated trend segments on the exhibit floor.
Texworld NYC also offers seminars, panel discussions and workshops for attendees. Led by industry experts,
topics will cover sustainable fabric sourcing and emerging trends as well as innovations in the textile industry.
As with other Messe Frankfurt trade shows, the NYC events will explore sustainability under the “Econogy” label. Accordingly, a new feature at the summer edition is Deadstock, an area dedicated to showcasing upcycled materials and circular fashion solutions. According to Messe Frankfurt, deadstock fabrics currently are one of the most in-demand fabric categories for U.S. buyers.
The shows are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday, July 23-24; and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Friday, July 25.
For those interested in sourcing on the West Coast this summer, Messe Frankfurt also will present Texworld Los Angeles and Apparel Sourcing Los Angeles at the California Market Center, Los Angeles, July 29-31, 2025. Printsource @ Texworld LA will also collocate in partnership with Texworld LA. TW
For more information about the shows and to register, visit texworldusa.us.messefrankfurt.com, home-textiles-sourcing.us.messefrankfurt.com, printsourcenewyork.com and texworldla.us.messefrankfurt.com.
A founding member and official representative of the OEKO-TEX® organization, Switzerland-based TESTEX® showcased the latest policies and tailor-made services for the textile industry at Intertextile.
platforms, Messe Frankfurt’s global Texpertise Network of 500,000 participants puts us in a great position to observe the market and seize new opportunities when they emerge.”
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Exposition Center Stage In Shanghai
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Exposition Center Stage In Shanghai
Shanghai’s National Exhibition and Convention Center hosted more than 4,030 exhibitors across three Messe Frankfurt collocated textile expositions — Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo.
TW Special Report
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics was first launched in 1995. Formerly known as Intertextile Shanghai Fair, it was established in cooperation with the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX); and China Textile Information Centre.
TThree Messe Frankfurt collocated textile expositions — Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo — recently gave more than 4,030 exhibitors the opportunity to connect with visitors from more than 131 countries and regions.
The sheer enormity of the of the concurrent show’s footprint was still dwarfed by the size of the venue — the National Exhibition and Convention Center (NECC) (Shanghai) — which at 15.8 million square feet is the largest convention center of its kind in the world.
Taking place in early spring, the shows occurred prior to U.S. tariff announcements and had the air of the established international trading history of the past.
Rooted In Commerce
Exposition organizer Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. is owned by Germany-based Messe Frankfurt GmbH, which is one of the largest fair organizers in the world with its huge global footprint and 800 years of history.
The first Frankfurt, Germany-based
fair was initiated by Royal Charter in 1240 by Emperor Fredrick II supporting the welfare of traveling merchants, providing a safe environment for business and promoting trade. In 1330, Emperor Louis IV continued the support of the event and as the city of Frankfurt grew through the years, so did its influence in commerce.
After World War II, the fair entered the modern era with its first post-war show in 1948, which gave rise to Messe Frankfurt. From there the company’s list of shows grew to include Heimtextil and Interstoff with an evolving international presence. Today, Messe Frankfurt is a leader in international trade fairs and exhibitions across a variety of industries including textiles.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
Wendy Wen, managing director, Messe Frankfurt (HK) characterized the recent Shanghai events by saying: “We were pleased with the high visitor flow at all three shows, as well as the positive exhibitor feedback overall and for new elements such as Econogy Hub. Across numerous
The spring 2025 iteration offered 3,100 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions the opportunity to engage with a near record setting number of visitors.
Aisles upon aisles of exhibitors — large and small, as well as wellknown and unfamiliar — drew nearly 95,000 attendees from 131 countries and regions.
Concurrent Shows
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics was conveniently located adjacent to the Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition and Yarn Expo at the NECC. This made exploring the three events more manageable, but a deeper dive would take considerable time.
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition
Organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK), CCPIT TEX and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA), Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Spring Edition featured more than 370 exhibitors engaged with some 25,000 visitors from 85 countries and regions. Visitor numbers increased 8 percent; and organizers noted that the number of international visitors
Fringe Speakers’ Insight
Designed to share the latest textile knowledge and development, the Intertextile Apparel Fringe Program covered four core themes — ontrend fashion, functionality, sustainability and digitalization. Panel discussion topics included Econogy Talks, Technology and Solutions, and Design and Trends. During the Econogy Talks segment, certifiers, producers, industry experts, among others spoke about solutions, best practices and challenges related to sustainability in the apparel sector.
was more than double that of the previous spring edition.
The show focuses on bedding, toweling, curtains, carpets, rugs, upholstery and more. There were a full range of brands and suppliers present with eight major Chinese home textile pavilions.
In 2022, Wendy Wen assumed new responsibilities as the managing director and chairperson of the Board of Management, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. to manage most commercial concerns for the subsidiary. Utilizing her expertise in operations and sponsorship marketing, Wen also has continued to manage the company’s trade fairs for consumer goods, textiles & textile technologies in Greater China.
ested in eco-friendly features, a trend that local customers are also adopting. Thus, we prioritize environmental protection, innovation, and functionality in our product development.”
Spring edition visitor Shirley Xu, merchandise manager, Americana International (Shanghai) Ltd., USA
Chu Yajun, sales manager, Shanghai Ruiping Trading Co. Ltd. — which is the global authorized dealers of St. Paul, Minn.-based 3M ™ ’s Thinsulate ™ insulation — stated: “We are promoting four Thinsulate models for home textiles, along with various functional options like anti-allergy and antibacterial products. This show is well regarded, attracting both domestic and international customers. Foreign brands are increasingly inter-
reported to the organizer: “Specializing in home textiles like bedding sets and cushions, we're seeking exhibitors who prioritize patterns and functionality, especially fashionable prints. The fringe events are beneficial for keeping us updated on popular market trends. I've noticed the Chinese market aligning more with international standards, and this show features a diverse range of both local and foreign exhibitors.”
“Our decision to participate in this seminar stems from our long-standing involvement with Intertextile,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president, Pantone Color Institute, Carlstadt, N.J., who participated in the Fringe Speakers Program. “We’ve been attending for many years because it serves as a vital platform in the home textiles and fashion industries. This year, we had the opportunity to present trends specifically for home textiles, which is particularly exciting as we’ve been forecasting colors for the home furnishings market for over two decades. Conducting seminars like this allows us to share our color intelligence, helping manufacturers understand which colors consumers’ desire.”
Yarn Expo Spring 2025
Yarn Expo also set a record with 562 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions — an exhibitor increase of 6 percent from the previous edition. China, Germany, Hong Kong China, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Singapore, Taiwan China, Türkiye, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, Uzbekistan, and Vietnam were all represented.
Nearly 24,000 visitors networked with suppliers presenting their latest collections of natural, regenerated, and man-made fibers and yarns, as well as specialty products including elastic, and fancy and blended yarns.
The 27,000 square meter show floor was arranged into six zones including Cashmere Yarn, Fancy
Left : Cotton USA was active with a prominent location on the show floor of the Yarn Expo. Right: Intertextile support staff, who were a great help in navigating the shows, were difficult to miss in their colorful uniforms.
Hong Kong China-based Consulting Service
Director Karl
presented several susta inability focused presentations. Center: Peter Seah, vice president, Asia Global for Chargeurs PCC Fashion Technologies presented interlinings and components from the Lainiere Paris and the Fusion lines.
Chad Doub, Global Segment marketing manager fo r Fibers-Textiles-Casual & Home at Kingsport, Tenn.-based Eastman poses with articles made using Eastman’s Naia™ cellulosic fiber — a fiber focused on everyday comfort as well as technical performance.
Yarn, Chemical Fiber, Green Linen & Quality Wool Yarn, Cotton Yarn, and International Yarn, and also included Pakistan and India pavilions.
One of the biggest exhibition stands housed man-made cellulose fiber producer Sateri (Fujian) Fibre Co. Ltd. The company is one of world’s largest producers of viscose fiber, which is often used in traditional textiles, wet wipes and hygiene products. With five mills in China, the company is reported to collectively produce approximately 1.8 million tons of viscose fiber annually.
Notably there were 90 exhibitors in the cotton zone of Yarn Expo, and exhibitors also included those showcasing new materials and high-performance fibers.
A major, consistent theme among exhibitors was “green” products, a focus on sustainability and a call out to circularity in the textile supply chain.
Looking Forward
In the face of turbulence in international trade, the current environment casts shade on what was a wellattended — based on both exhibitor and visitor numbers — triumvirate of textile exhibitions.
That said, if history informs us, Messe Frankfurt has more than weathered such storms in its past and regardless of the form the business landscape takes going forward, supporting the welfare of traveling merchants, providing a safe environment for business, and promoting trade will
continue as it started more than 800 years ago.
As Wen stated, “With economic challenges and evolving industries to navigate, trade fairs will be as important as ever, and we look forward to facilitating good business in the years to come.” TW
Right: Cellulose fiber producer Sateri (Fujian) Fibre Co Ltd., an ever-present exhibitor at Yarn Expo, organized a pavilion featuring 15 of its downstream yarn partners.
The Simplest Route To Sustainability In Textile Production
IA New Gear Oil: I A New Gear Oil:
n an economic climate where manufacturers are eager to reduce their carbon footprint and cut costs, increasing sustainability has become a central focus. The textile industry is no exception. In fact, textile manufacturers are up against a unique set of challenges when it comes to efficiency including high energy consumption, constant machine stress, and the need for reliable, long-term performance. While traditional methods like upgrading equipment, eliminating hazardous raw materials, and recycling scrap materials can be effective ways to save energy, these options tend to be complex, expensive and time-consuming. There is another, much simpler — and cost-effective — route to saving energy in textile operations: lubricants.
Rather than looking at machine component factors such as hardness of gears, bearing selection, materials and geometry, lubricants may be the best place to start when seeking ways to increase efficiency. The right gear oil, hydraulic oil, or compressor oil can revolutionize textile production,
Lubricants can be a powerful resource when it comes to energy savings in textile manufacturing operations.
By Max Jaworski
leading to benefits such as lower wear rates, reduced operating temperatures, and, most importantly, increased energy efficiency.
Challenges In Textile Machinery
It’s no secret that textile manufacturing environments are particularly rigorous on machine components. Machines operate under extreme stress because of:
•Continuous operation — textile machines often run 24/7, making any downtime costly;
•High loads — machines must handle significant mechanical stress, leading to wear and tear;
•Varying operating conditions — variables like speed, vibration and
contaminants cause each component to have its own set of challenges; and
•Temperature variations and humidity — heat buildup and high humidity can accelerate oil degradation and component wear, requiring lubricants to have superior water resistance and oxidation stability.
Maintenance is an arduous task and is thus carried out only at long intervals in many cases. Therefore, selecting the right lubricant is critical — both for the initial lubrication of a component and relubrication during operation. By investing in high-quality lubricants, manufacturers not only extend the lifespan of their equipment but also enjoy reduced maintenance and labor costs, longer oil change intervals, and increased overall profitability.
Where Are Lubricants Used In The Textile Industry?
Germany-based Klüber Lubrication — a business division of Freudenberg Chemical Specialities SE & Co. KG — sees lubricants as a fun-
damental design element of textile machines. Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM’s) have to match the individual component requirements to ensure optimal performance is achieved as efficiently as possible.
Klüber’s specialty lubricants cover the entire production process in the textile industry, including:
•Spinning machines where the lubricants impart excellent corrosion protection for bearings, spinning turbines, opening rollers, spinning pumps and spinnerets;
•Knitting machines for long service life with minimum maintenance requirements for needles and sinkers, slide rails and guide bars;
•Weaving machines offering longer intervals between maintenance operations because of minimumquantity lubrication for gears, gripper looms and chains;
•Finishing machines and tenter frames whereby the lubricants confer resistance to water and steam as well as acidic and alkaline solutions for steamers, rolling bearings, compensators and rollers; and
•Nonwoven machines where they offer high load carrying capacity and good pressure absorption for needlepunch, spunlace and spunbond operations.
Proven Efficiency Gains In Textile Production
Klüber Lubrication has studied how synthetic lubricants perform in textile manufacturing and found clear improvements over traditional oils including lower energy use, better equipment performance and faster return on investment.
Across sectors, manufacturers who switch to specialty synthetic lubricants may experience:
•An average of 2- to 5-percent energy savings;
•An average needle temperature reduction of 3.5°C; and
•An average payback period of less than a year.
In knitting machines, Klüber Lubrication customers have achieved:
•4.8-percent energy savings;
•A seven-month payback period; and
•Carbon dioxide savings of 3.8 tons.
In weaving machines, Klüber Lubrication customers have achieved:
•$68,000 annual cost savings;
•4-percent energy savings;
•A two-month payback period; and
•Carbon dioxide savings of 272 tons.
The Right Oil Makes All The Difference
In any textile operation, lubrication plays a vital role in production — and in efficiency. To make an operation run as efficiently as possible, manufacturers must select the right oil for applications such as gearboxes, hydraulic systems and air compressors. The right oil comes down to the base oil and additives. Essential requirements for textile lubricants are described by leading manufacturers in international standards and specifications. They include:
•Operating temperature range;
•Viscosity;
•Aging behavior;
•Low-temperature behavior;
•Corrosion protection on steel and nonferrous metal;
•Foam behavior;
•Elastomer compatibility;
•Compatibility with interior coatings; and
•Wear protection against fretting or micropitting.
When it comes to energy efficiency, not all oils are created equal. In fact, oils with a synthetic base have signifi-
cantly longer lifespans than those with a mineral base. Polyalkylene glycols (PAGs), for example, absolutely shine as the most efficient and lowest-wear type of oils, particularly in high-sliding applications such as worm and hypoid gears. In these applications, PAGs offer a lower coefficient of friction within the gearbox, resulting in a reduction in power loss. While a standard mineral oil may require replacement every 5,000 hours, synthetic hydrocarbon oils such as polyalphaolefins (PAOs) — which offer stability, but are less resistant to thermal degradation and sliding friction than PAGs —can last approximately 15,000 hours, and PAGs can reach 25,000 hours at the same temperature. This translates to fewer oil changes, lower maintenance downtime, and increased production uptime.
Additionally, oxidation is one of the common factors leading to oil degradation, affecting its performance and requiring frequent replenishment. High-performance synthetic lubricants slow this process, maintaining oil integrity, which reduces the frequency of oil changes.
Proven Efficiency Gains In Gearboxes
When it comes to gears, the most significant energy savings are seen in gear types with inherently lower efficiencies, such as worm drives. For example, tests performed by Klüber Lubrication show that a worm gear
By investing in high-quality lubricants, manufacturers can extend the lifespan of their equipment.
running with a conventional mineral oil operates at around 60 percent efficiency. When switched to a synthetic PAO lubricant, efficiency increases to 70 percent; and with a PAG lubricant, it jumps to 78 percent.
For textile plants with hundreds of gear-driven machines, these efficiency gains compound, leading to substantial energy savings and lower operational costs. The up-front cost of a high-quality synthetic lubricant is quickly offset by long-term reductions in energy consumption and maintenance expenses.
Applications In Textile Machinery
To operate at peak efficiency, different types of textile machinery require their own specialized lubrication solution. For special applica-
Based on this information, it is possible to select the oil type, wear protection, and viscosity that enable the oil to optimally perform its tasks, which include:
•Absorbing forces;
•Reducing friction;
•Minimizing wear;
•Dissipating heat; and
•Absorbing wear and contamination.
Even within the same operation, experts understand that each element of the equipment has a different need. That’s why the team of experts at Klüber Lubrication partner with OEMs to understand the unique needs of the machinery and provide lubricant recommendations, as well as technical support.
As an example, consider the spunbond polymer extrusion system shown in Figure 1. Each part requires
tions, such as those in which very long service intervals are to be expected or where operating conditions are very unique, the team at Klüber Lubrication is always available to help select the correct solution for a plant’s equipment. When selecting the right oil for a particular machine, parameters such as performance, speed, environmental influences, and special operating conditions need to be taken into consideration.
a different lubrication solution to perform its individual function and keep the system working efficiently as a whole.
By partnering with lubrication experts, a textile manufacturer can select the correct viscosity and additive package to optimize performance and reliability while reducing maintenance-related downtime. Don’t settle for the wrong lubricants when it’s simple to find the right ones with a reliable partner by your side.
Klüber Lubrication: Committed To Efficiency And Sustainability
To further its commitment to saving time, energy, and money, Klüber Lubrication has developed Klüber Energy Efficiency, an innovative program that verifies energy savings. This solution includes certified measurements, comprehensive analyses, and recommendations for the optimal lubricant solution.
Klüber Lubrication is also a globally recognized leader in specialty lubricants, earning an EcoVadis Gold rating for sustainability four years in a row, placing the company in the top 5 percent of sustainabilityfocused companies worldwide.
The EcoVadis Gold status reflects Klüber’s commitment to:
•Reducing environmental impact;
•Extending machine lifespan; and
•Lowering energy consumption.
By partnering with Klüber Lubrication, manufacturers not only enhance machine efficiency but also contribute to sustainable industrial practices.
The Smartest Investment For A Textile Plant
Switching to a high-quality synthetic gear oil is one of the simplest and most effective ways for textile manufacturers to reduce energy consumption.
The key benefits include:
•Lower operating temperatures, which result in reduced thermal degradation;
•Longer oil change intervals, which result in less downtime and maintenance;
•Reduced wear, which results in extended equipment life; and
•Increased energy efficiency, which results in substantial cost savings.
Access to expert lubricant recommendations tailored to your specific needs can unlock sustainability and revolutionize efficiency like never before. TW
Editor’s Note: Max Jaworski is an engineer - Textile Global Industry Team, Klüber Lubrication. He can be reached at max.jaworski@klueber.com.
Figure 1: A spunbond polymer extrusion system where each part requires a different lubricant to operate at maximum efficiency.
People
The Supervisory Board of Austria-based Lenzing AG named Georg Kasperkovitz COO and a member of the Managing Board. He is responsible for managing the companywide fiber production sites.
Tricia Carey has joined Avalo as chief commercial officer to bring its new lowinput cotton to market.
Miami-based Avantex has appointed Carlos Botero president for Latin America.
Bianca Mannini has joined the Brussels-based Bureau of International Recycling (BIR) as a Trade and Environment officer. In addition, Daniela Waizel Rule was named a communications officer at BIR.
The Lycra Co., Wilmington, Del., promoted Melissa Riggs to chief marketing officer.
Germanybased Puma has named Tara McRae president of PUMA North America.
chief information officer; and Claudia Rovati as global sales director, and Elisabetta Nicoli as supply chain manager of the Shirting Division.
Andrew Dailey was promoted at Jones Family of Companies, Charlotte, N.C., to general manager of Jones Sustainable Packaging. Glen Raven, Burlington, N.C., has promoted Andrew Bernard to vice president and general manager of the Shade & Marine Business Unit. Bernard has been with the company for 17 years.
Darn Tough Vermont®, Northfield, Vt., promoted Emily Corley from senior director of marketing to vice president of marketing. She is the first person to hold the position at the company.
Kathrin and StephanPleva were named managing directors of family-owned company Pleva GmbH, Germany. They will work with their father, Dr. Ralf Pleva, to lead the company.
Israel-based Avgol, an Indorama Ventures company, has appointed Jelle Westerterp chief commercial officer.
S&S Activewear, Bolingbrook, Ill., has named Jim Sturgell senior vice president of sales, Nick Blannin senior vice president of merchandising, Bill Top senior vice president of commercial strategy and operations, and Kendall Whitley vice president of team sales.
Abhi Agrawal was announced as CEO of Greensboro, N.C.-based QTI Fibers and its portfolio of companies including Quantum Materials, Twitchell Technical Products and Infinity Woven Products.
During the Americas Apparel Producers’ Network’s (AAPN’s) annual meeting, Jill Coleman was announced as president of the organization. She takes over from Tony Anzovino
Universal Fiber SystemsSM LLC, Bristol, Va., has appointed Jonathan Craig CEO. He succeeds Marc Ammen who is retiring after 25 years.
Crowley, Jacksonville, Fla., has named Jenny Fuss CFO.
Baltimore-based Under Armour recently named Dawn N. Fitzpatrick, Eugene D. Smith and Robert Sweeney to its Board of Directors.
Five new executives recently joined Paris-based Chargeurs PCC: Riccardo Cossu as general manager, Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA); Laure Sénéquier-Crozet as general manager of the Senfa Cliander division; Dmitry Fedorov as deputy
Jens Reinig was named CFO of Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials.
Samsara Eco, Australia, has appointed Brock Thomas as chief innovation officer and Isaac Iverson as executive product director.
The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary. N.C., named four new people to its board for 2025: Mariagiovanna Ramini Vetere, vice president of sustainability and public affairs, NatureWorks; Aleksandra Kruszewska, director of R&D and business development, Reckitt; Mark Tumelty, senior vice president and general manager, Nice-Pak Products Inc.; and Ginny Casstevens, director of sales & marketing, Fibertex Nonwovens Inc.
Kevin Whiteside was promoted to president of Vandewiele Inc., Chattanooga, Tenn. He succeeds Bob Harding who was promoted to chairman of the board. Harding will continue to serve as managing director of Vandewiele’s operation in the United Kingdom. TW
Westerterp
Craig
McRae
Carey
Bernard
Botero
Reinig
Agrawal
By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
CONTACTS:
For more information, visit the balena.science and recreus.com websites. Go online to TextileWorld.com for archived Quality Fabric articles.
Designer Neyla Coronel utilized biobased Balena.Filaflex to create a 3D printed, custom bra that adapts to the body.
Beyond The Sewing Machine:
3D Printing
Meets Sustainable Fashion
TQuality Fabric T
hinking outside the box and beyond the sewing machine, designer Neyla Coronel set to create a custom-made bra that would be produced in a whole new way during her postgraduate studies at Fabricademy. The Textile and Technology academy offers six-month intensive programs at a variety of labs worldwide that explore the intersection of digital production, textiles and biology with a mission “to (re)shape and (re)define the implications and applications of technology in the textile and clothing industry, from the fashion sector to the upcoming wearable market.”
And reshape Coronel did. Her concept was to make a garment that adapted to the woman instead of a woman having to make do with the limited offerings in the marketplace. She combined parametric modeling, 3D scanning and auxetic geometries with 3D printing techniques to create a fully compostable, biobased bra. The bra’s design is adapted to body dimensions, movement and change over time; and the auxetic pattern was engineered to expand and contract in sync with the wearer.
Once the design was conceived, Coronel had to find the right material to use and eventually settled on Balena.Filaflex, a compostable, 3D printing filament that Israel-based material science company Balena co-developed with Spain-based Recreus. Balena focuses on biobased materials for extrusion, injection molding and 3D printing that can replace non-compostable plastics used in many industries. Recreus, the creator of Filaflex filaments for 3D printing, focuses on flexible materials to reimagine what is possible with additive manufacturing technology. Together, Balena and Recreus took Balena’s BioCir®flex3D material and
created the biobased, fully circular and recyclable Balena.Filaflex 3D printing filament.
The softness and elasticity of the material offered many possibilities. “Working with Balena.Filaflex was a breakthrough,” Coronel said. “Its flexibility is essential for something worn so close to the body. But beyond that, it’s biobased, compostable and recyclable. It made the piece not just wearable, but meaningful.
“It invites designers to rethink what is possible,” Coronel stressed. “It expands what 3D printing can do in fashion — especially in pieces that need to move and respond to the human body.”
“We’re proud to support projects like Neyla’s — it’s designers like her who show what’s possible when material innovation meets personal vision,” Balena said.
This experience has motivated Coronel to look at other applications for Balena.Filaflex. including other intimate wear, footwear and even furniture. “Each new material brings a new learning curve,” she said. “But Balena.Filaflex showed me how material science can support designs that are truly human and sustainable.”
Perhaps not broadly market-ready yet, at the very least, the bra represents a unique and interesting idea. It illustrates what’s currently possible and perhaps provides some insight to the future of garment making.
According to Balena, the intimate garment “demonstrates how [Balena.Filaflex] material can bridge performance and purpose: offering comfort, adaptability and a radically reduced environmental footprint.” TW
Bulletin Board
Santa Monica,Calif.-based Figs Inc. has launched FORMx™ scrubs featuring five times the stretch found in traditional scrubs.The garments, made using 81-percent nylon/19-percent spandex,offer four-way elasticity of approximately 70 percent in both directions.FORMx scrubs also are antimicrobial, moisture wicking and antistatic.Figs also recently introduced a year-round,medical apparel recycling program
in partnership with SuperCircle.Scrubs may be recycled by mail or at Figs’Community Hub locations in exchange for a store credit.
DUER ,Vancouver,British Columbia,has introduced Performance Denim Lite, a warm-weather denim option that is 25-percent lighter than the brand’s traditional Performance Denim.The Lite version is a 74-percent cotton/ 24-percent COOLMAX® All Season EcoMade Poly-
ester/2-percent elastane blend for comfort as well as temperature regulation.
Trivantage®,Burlington, N.C.,has introduced a revamped version of its Gore® Tenara sewing thread.The new variant is a three-ply,polytetrafluoroethylene thread designed for high-speed sewing.
Switzerland-based Uster Technologies has released the Uster AFIS 6 fiber process control system.This next-genera-
tion laboratory instrument tests man-made-fiber properties in addition to cotton,offering critical data for cotton,blended and man-made yarns.
England-based James Heal has devised a new nine station Martindale abrasion and pilling tester called the Martindale Motion.Engineered with individual lifting heads, each station may be run independently allowing different fabrics to be tested at the same time. TW
