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Understanding Odor ITMA Asia + CITME UPF Protection Opportunities
2025 Quarterly Issue III Founded 1868
Freudenberg’s Enka®Solutions Unique 3D Technology
Hempitecture Inc. Redefining Architecture Using Hemp
Executive Forum: AATCC’s Gregg Woodcock
Executive Forum: Thomas Oetterli, Rieter Chairman And CEO
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2025 Quarterly Volume III TextileWorld.com
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Founded 1868
Publication
Features 9
Fellowship & Family Spirit Shine At STA’s Annual Meeting Conference program focused on cotton market shifts, trade and policy issues and Made-in-USA.
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From Shanghai To Singapore, ITMA Asia + CITME Grows Its Reach This fall, Singapore will host the 2025 edition of ITMA Asia + CITME.
Executive Forums 14
Rieter CEO Thomas Oetterli Talks The Future Of Spinning In an exclusive interview as Rieter reaches its 230th anniversary, Oetterli discussed leadership, technology and the future of spinning.
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A Conversation With AATCC’s Gregg Woodcock The new AATCC Executive Director discusses his personal textile journey, industry relationships and new leadership role.
ON THE COVER: Enka Bio Carrier, a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings, is just one technical offering in Enka® Solutions’ family of 3D extruded matrix products. Enka Solutions is a brand of Freudenberg Performance Materials, Germany.
Nonwovens/Technical Textiles 22 News 23 Hygienix™ 2025: Absorbent Products In The Spotlight INDA’s Hygienix™ event will gather in Orlando for the 2025 edition.
24 RISE® Conference 2025: Where Research Meets Real-World Innovation RISE is a unique forum where research and commercialization intersect.
26 AT Expo 2025: A Hub For Textile Leaders & Innovators The Advanced Textile Association’s expo is heading to Indianapolis.
Departments 6
From The Editor
7
News
37
Bulletin Board
28 From Hemp Farm To House Frame: The Hempitecture Story Hempitecture is bringing natural fibers, hemp in particular, to the forefront of sustainable building design.
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60 People 62 Quality Fabric
Rethinking PPE For Fighting Wildfires Firefighter apparel is not a one-product-fits-all scenario — different emergencies may require different gear.
34 Freudenberg’s Enka® Solutions: A Family Of Unique 3D Nonwovens Enka® Solutions technology has been meeting diverse needs since the late 1960s.
VOL. 175, No. 3 / TEXTILE WORLD (ISSN 0040-5213) is published quarterly by Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068, and incorporates Modern Textiles, Textile Industries, Fiber World and Knitting/Apparel magazines, which remain the property of Textile Industries Media Group, LLC. Copyright 2024, Textile Industries Media Group, LLC Title registered with the U.S. Patent Office. All rights, including translation into other languages, reserved. Subscription rates for one year are: $65 (US); $85 (Canada and Mexico); $130 (Other International). Single copy rates are: $15 per copy. All prices are in U.S. dollars and all orders must be prepaid. Questions may be submitted to jdavis@textileworld.com. To obtain electronic copies of print articles, please contact ProQuest at www.proquest.com. To obtain microform copies, please contact NA Publishing at www.napubco.com.
POSTMASTER send address changes to: Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068. Send Canadian address changes to: Textile World, c/o The Mail Group, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, Canada. Customer #7007632 Publications Agreement #40612608.
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2025 Quarterly Volume III TextileWorld.com
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Fiber World 38 News 39 Carbowave: Energy Efficiency In Carbon Fiber Production New processing technologies allow for microwave assisted decomposition of carbon fiber composites.
40 Blended Armor: From Monofiber To Multifiber Blended fibers can raise protection levels and also increase end-user confidence in multi-hazard protective applications.
Dyeing,Printing & Finishing 42 News 44 Understanding And Mastering Odor Control In Textiles An effective odor control solution for textile products needs to address the multifaceted sources of odor.
47 Atkinson Dyeing Invests In A Sustainable Future England-based textile dyeing firm cuts carbon footprint with innovative heat recovery system and facility upgrades.
Quality Fabric Procell: Fermented Fiber Tandem Repeat Technologies is using spent yeast to create protein-based fiber Procell, which offers properties similar to a luxury wool. NEXT ISSUE:
Knitting/Apparel 48 News 49 Interstoff Opts For Advanced Svegea Colarette Systems Interstoff Group commissions Svegea EC 200 machines for high-speed production of tubular apparel components.
50 Fashioning A Better Future Next-generation materials are becoming a viable and scalable source for fashion brands that are committed to sustainability.
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Where Denim’s Past Meets Its Future From curated archives to hands-on training, The Denim Institute & Museum will celebrate denim’s heritage, teach the next generation of makers and champion sustainable innovation.
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UPF In Textiles The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation presents an opportunity for apparel brands to expand within a growing market.
2024 QUARTERLY ISSUE III
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Executive Forum Apparel Focus Near Shoring Update
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From The
U.S. Textiles: Time To Invest?
Editor
Tariffs, Taxes And Pro-Manufacturing
D
espite the chaotic winds encircling U.S. textile manufacturing, for staunchly committed producers, one can’t help sense opportunity brewing. Lurking beneath the surface of the divisive tariff uncertainties, a once in a lifetime realignment of the United States’ role in international trade is taking place. There is ample opportunity for argument, objection and outrage — but one can’t escape the fact that the U.S. position in global production and consumption of goods is changing. As pundits dissect and prognosticate, real companies, with long track records of innovation and transformation, are on deck adjusting to the opportunities at hand. For the first time in a very long time, there is a palpable pro-manufacturing environment that is like an exhausted sailor suddenly finding the high winds at their back. U.S. tax policy and regulatory environments seem to be growing more reasonable, rather than serving as a disincentive to putting capital at risk. Restoring full expensing of investments — 100-percent depreciation — can offer capital-intensive businesses significant support for investing. For many who haven’t been able to invest, the dramatic advancements in equipment and technology may have been worth the wait. By many accounts productivity is poised to skyrocket. Expensive labor has always been an issue in U.S. manufacturing competing in a global market. But most technology has labor cost reduction built in and cost structures seem to be favoring proximity to raw materials, lower energy costs and speed-to-market advantages.
This just may be a recipe for success in the United States and nearshoring manufacturing. Even for non-yarn spinners, the views of Rieter’s CEO Thomas Oetterli are worth a read (See “Rieter CEO Thomas Oetterli Talks The Future Of Textile Spinning,” TW, this issue). As the leader of one of the most significant suppliers to the global textile industry, Rieter is a barometer on what the future holds in manufacturing. Oetterli’s take aways — look for “automated, digital and smart”to lead developments, and labor reduction is baked in. Oetterli said: “We are stepping up research and development activities to fully automate the value stream by 2027 through autonomous transport systems and collaborative robotics. Rieter’s digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL will be the command-and-control center of smart and high-performing mills that lower cost and maximize returns.” There are no simple solutions, but one can’t miss the fact that core U.S. textile manufacturers who have made very challenging markets work, will see a favorable shift in competitiveness; an opportunity to meet and exceed their customer’s and consumers’needs, wants and desires; and an opportunity to establish a new presence in the domestic consumption of U.S. textiles. Investing in the future of U.S. textiles has never been for the faint of heart — but the business case of capital expenditure has positive support, and for the persistent, there may be no time like the present.
James M. Borneman jborneman@TextileWorld.com
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News Purecycle, Emerald Carpets Partner For Circular Trade Show Carpets PureCycle Technologies, Orlando, Fla., and trade show carpet producer Emerald Carpets, Dalton, Ga., have formed a partnership to advance circularity in the trade show carpet industry. Under a supply agreement, Emerald Carpets will purchase about 5 million pounds of PureFive™ resin annually for fiber production, enabling them to exceed California’s current recycled content requirements. The companies also are testing closed-loop recycling by processing used carpets into purified recycled polypropylene pellets, which could then be remade into new carpets. “We are thrilled to partner with PureCycle,”said Tom Boykin, president, Emerald Carpets.“Our commitment to circularity in our material procurement and use aligns perfectly with PureCycle’s mission, as well as our customers’expectations. We believe using recycled polypropylene will help us create carpets that not only perform exceptionally well on the conference circuit, but also contribute positively to resource efficiency and waste reduction.” The initiative includes collaboration at facilities in Georgia and Ohio to scale production, with the aim of delivering circular trade show carpets to the market by 2028.
Indo Count Relaunches Wamsutta Brand Indo Count Global, the New York City-based subsidiary of India-based Indo Count Industries Ltd., has relaunched Wamsutta as a direct-to-consumer brand, now available exclusively at wamsutta.com in the United States. Acquired in 2024, the brand is being reintroduced with updated product assortments to strengthen Indo Count’s presence in the premium U.S. home textiles market. “Wamsutta has always stood for quality and comfort that endures,”said Mohit Jain, executive vice chairman of Indo Count Industries. “Now, with a refreshed brand, premium positioning, and the direct-to-consumer channel, we are connecting with a new generation of consumers while honoring the brand’s legacy.” The relaunch includes a curated range of bedding and bath products emphasizing quality, simplicity and design. Indo Count’s DTC model enables closer consumer engagement, real-time insights, and long-term brand building while continuing Wamsutta’s mission of bringing comfort and thoughtful design to homes.
SBTi Validates Elevate Textiles’ GHG Targets Elevate Textiles, Charlotte, N.C., announced that the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) has
Gildan, HanesBrands Agree To Combine Montréal-based Gildan Activewear Inc. and HanesBrands Inc.,Winston-Salem, N.C., have entered into a definitive merger agreement under which Gildan will acquire HanesBrands.The transaction implies a value of approximately $2.2 billion in equity and $4.4 billion in enterprise value for HanesBrands.The deal will double Gildan’s revenues and strengthen its positioning in activewear and retail channels, while enhancing efficiency and innovation through Gildan’s vertically integrated platform. “Today is a historic moment in Gildan’s journey as we look to join forces with HanesBrands,” said Glenn J. Chamandy, Gildan’s president and
validated its near-term and net-zero greenhouse gas emission reduction targets. The company — along with its brands American & Efird, Burlington, Cone Denim, Gütermann, and Safety Components — is committed to reducing absolute scope 1 and 2 emissions by 46.2 percent and scope 3 emissions by the same percentage by 2030 from a 2019 baseline. Elevate’s targets were assessed and approved under SBTi’s Net-Zero Standard and Near-Term Target Criteria. “As we continue our decarbonization journey, we are proud to announce the validation of our 2050 net-zero targets,”said
CEO. “With this transaction, our revenues will double and we achieve a scale that distinctly sets us apart.The combination with HanesBrands strengthens our positioning with an opportunity to expand the heritage ‘Hanes’ brand presence in activewear across channels, while enhancing Gildan’s retail reach for its portfolio of brands.” Steve Bratspies, CEO of HanesBrands, added:“This transaction represents a powerful alignment of HanesBrands’ and Gildan’s shared commitment to quality, innovation, and excellence.We have great respect for Gildan’s manufacturing strength and long track record of success.”
Jimmy Summers, chief sustainability officer, Elevate Textiles.“Concurrently, we received a revalidation of our 2030 near-term science-based targets, which we are on track to meet. These steps mark an important milestone in an increasingly difficult decarbonization challenge.” The company said these commitments align its climate strategy with global efforts to achieve net-zero by 2050.
Birch Biosciences Signs Patent Licensing Agreement With NREL Birch Biosciences, Portland, Ore., has signed a global patent license
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News agreement with the U.S. Department of Energy’s National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) to commercialize a new enzymatic deconstruction process for polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The technology enables the efficient recovery of PET monomers that can be remanufactured into virgin-quality PET that can be used to make recycled content products. “This licensing agreement represents a significant step forward in our mission to enable a circular plastic economy using biological solutions,” said Dr. Johan Kers, co-founder and CEO of Birch Biosciences.“NREL’s
process complements our enzymatic recycling platform perfectly and will help us achieve scalable, low-cost plastic recycling.” “NREL is pleased to partner with Birch Biosciences to bring this technology to market,”added Dr. Gregg Beckham, senior research fellow at NREL. “This is a great example of how national laboratories and industry can collaborate to address plastics recycling challenges with real-world impact.”
Recover™, TextileGenesis™ Collaborate On Traceability Recycled cotton and cotton blend fiber
producer Recover ™ has launched a pilot with TextileGenesis ™, a Parisbased Lectra company, to digitally trace recycled cotton and polycotton from fiber to finished garments. Using TextileGenesis Fibercoin ™ technology, digital tokens were created for each kilo of material, verifying custody across supply chain stages. Two garment styles were tested to explore different configurations. The pilot supports Recover’s circularity goals and regulatory readiness, including the EU Digital Product Passport. “Traceability plays a foundational role in
validating circularity claims and preparing for regulations like the EU Digital Product Passport,” said Orsolya Janossy, Senior Sustainability manager at Recover. Suppliers were trained and onboarded to the TextileGenesis platform, producing a transparent digital footprint. Amit Gautam, founder & CEO of TextileGenesis, said, “Recover is demonstrating how traceability can be embedded into circular business models — not just to validate recycled content, but to create the verified data infrastructure needed for regulatory compliance and brand accountability.” TW
World Emblem Announces Reshoring, Nearshoring Expansions World Emblem, Fort Lauderdale, Fla., has announced plans to move production in Houston from a 35,000-square-foot (ft2) facility to a larger 72,000 ft2 manufacturing facility where it can produce up to 500,000 emblems and patches each week.The company will employ around 140 employees initially and plans to reshore jobs and add staff as U.S. production grows. “We are committed to continue growing our U.S. manufacturing base, which will not only help us reduce tariff costs and improve supply chain efficiency, but also enhance our ability to
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provide same-day production and delivery to clients,” said Randy Carr, World Emblem CEO. In addition, World Emblem has broken ground on a new 100,000-square-foot factory in Santiago de los Caballeros, Dominican Republic. Construction is expected to finish in early 2026, creating 100 jobs initially and up to 500 over time. “After a thorough search, we selected the Dominican Republic for its businessfriendly environment, skilled workforce, and proximity to our clients in the United States,” Carr said. “As we look to further expand the
TextileWorld.com
World Emblem broke ground on its new facility in the Dominican Republic.
range of products and services we provide to new and existing customers, this factory will enable us to strengthen our supply chain, enhance efficiency, and continue to grow the company.” World Emblem manufac-
tures customized emblems and patches at facilities in Georgia,Texas, California, Mexico, and Canada, serving North American clients with short lead times (See “World Emblem: Embracing AI,” TW, 2024 Quarterly Issue IV).
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2025 STA ANNUAL MEETING
(clockwise from top left): Conference speakers Hank Reichle, Staplcotn; Dr. Sheng Lu, University of Delaware; Auggie Tantillo, SRG & Associates; and Steve Hawkins, America Knits
Fellowship & Family Spirit Shine At
STA’s Annual Meeting
T
he Southern Textile Association (STA) is a 117-year-old nonprofit organization with a membership of more than 500 people from practically every sector of the textile industry. Membership consists, as the name suggests, of people in the textile industry located mostly in the Southeastern United States. In order to localize activities and best service its members, STA is broken into two divisions — the Northern Division and The Southern Division. It hosts divisional meetings each spring and fall — in North Carolina and South Carolina — as well as a winter seminar, a summer marketing forum and an annual meeting. This year’s STA annual meeting was held at the Sonesta Resort on Hilton Head Island, S.C. More than 200 members were in attendance.
Family Emphasis Among the tenets in its charter, are promoting good fellowship and social activities among its members. And no event hosted by STA promotes good fellowship more than its annual meeting. The meeting is part conference, part networking, part vacation, and it’s all about family. Attendees are encouraged to bring their families to
Conference program focused on cotton market shifts, trade and policy issues and Made-in-USA. TW Special Report the meeting — spouses and children — and events are designed to include everyone from the very young to the very old. Outside of the conference portion, there is a welcome reception open to all, golf, tennis, bingo, a beach party and an evening dinner dance. Some now adult attendees first came to the STA annual meeting as children and continue to participate, in some cases bringing their own children. Confirming that STA is fulfilling its fellowship tenet, Charles Poston, the most recent past STA president and chairman, and market manager for Textiles at Klüber Lubrication, shared that during the afternoon beach party, the camaraderie was so strong that even the beach lifeguard took notice! “During a brief chat with the lifeguard, she smiled and said, ‘I could have sworn it was a large family reunion,’” Poston said. “And in
that simple observation, she captured the essence of the event. Because that’s exactly what it felt like — a family reunion. A gathering of people who may work in different corners of the industry, but share a common thread — a love for textiles and a deep respect for one another,” Poston added.
2025 Conference: Cotton Update The first morning of the conference, three speakers took to the podium to share insights on a variety of topics. First up, was Hank Reichle, president and CEO of Staplcotn, Greenwood, Miss. His “Cotton Market Update” presentation covered the current landscape in the United States, as well as challenges and opportunities. He noted that international cotton trade dynamics have been dramatically altered because Brazil has increased its production from 4 million to 18 million bales. Tariffs also have altered the market as have geopolitical issues. But bright spots exist. Reichle encourages agricultural export-friendly trade deals as well as the “Buying American Cotton Act” that supports U.S. farmers. In addition, sustainability and traceability programs may offer
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competitive advantages. “We’re not just selling cotton; we’re selling a story of quality, sustainability and American innovation,” he said.
STA Honorees STA member Matt Shannon with Greenwood Mills had the honor of announcing the winners of several awards during the annual meeting.
Tariffs & Trade
David Clark Award Honoree Todd Wemyss (left) receiving the STA David Clark Award from Matt Shannon
The association’s David Clark Award is given to an STA past president who continues to lead and serve the organization for 10 or more years following their term as president. STA 2015-16 President Todd Wemyss was honored with the award this year. He is currently plant manager of Glen Raven’s Norlina Plant.
ship level. Three entities were honored with this recognition in its inaugural year — Coker & Associates of South Carolina, Danbartex LLC, and the North Carolina Textile Foundation/ NC State Wilson College of Textiles.
George Abbott Award
Service To The STA
This award was created in honor of George Abbot who had the nicknames “Mr. STA” and “Mr. Terrific.” A longtime advocate and supporter of STA, Abbot was the first recipient of the award, which is given each year to the person who recruits the most new members to the organization. The 2025 recipient was Randy Blackston, vice president of Operations at Glen Raven and an STA past president. He was unable to attend the meeting, however Blackston’s Glen Raven colleague Evans Tindal accepted the award on his behalf.
Charles Poston, Klüber Lubrication, concluded his term as president and chairman of STA during the 2025 Annual Meeting. In recognition of his service to the association, he was presented with a gavel plaque by Tindal.
America Knits
Support & Advocacy Award This newly created award recognizes companies that have sponsored all seven events hosted by STA in a calendar year all at the highest sponsor-
Charles Poston (left) recieved a plaque in recognition of his service to the association over the past two years from STA President Evans Tindal.
(left to right): Recipients of the inaugural STA Support & Advocacy Award — Coker & Associates of South Carolina; Danbartex LLC; and the North Carolina Textile Foundation/NC State College of Textiles.
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The second speaker was tasked with perhaps the most difficult topic to talk about — tariffs and trade. In his presentation “The Impact of Tariffs on U.S. Textile and Apparel Trade,” Dr. Sheng Lu, professor of Apparel & Fashion Studies at the University of Delaware, spoke of strategies U.S. fashion brands are implementing to navigate the stormy trade waters. Diversification in manufacturing locations is a big component; and while Asia remains the primary sourcing region for apparel, Vietnam, Bangladesh and India are gaining ground over sourcing in China. Today, brands are sourcing from an average of 46 countries. “Brands are not putting all their eggs in one basket,” Lu noted. He also shared that consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainability, and it can be a critical component of success in sourcing.
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After more than 30 years working in the knit apparel manufacturing industry overseas, Steve Hawkins had a desire to produce high-quality apparel in the United States. A partnership with lifelong friend Dr. David Talton as well as a factory for sale in Swainsboro, Ga., led to America Knits. Founded in 2018 before the pandemic, the road hasn’t been smooth, but America Knits has found success in Swainsboro and is on a growth trajectory. In his presentation “America Knits/Seeds II Seams: A Sustainability Story Made in America,” Hawkins shared the company’s history. Currently, it produces approximately 25,000 T-shirts each week; and recently added screen printing, embroidery and laundry to its capabilities to expand on the products offered and to firmly control fit — an issue very important to Hawkins.
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To strengthen its supply chain and build vertical manufacturing, the company recently partnered with Lumberton, N.C.-based Contempora Fabrics Inc. Together, they plan to develop a plant that will manufacture beanies. The two companies also generously donated screen-printed, commemorative meeting T-shirts to STA members in attendance. After its initial success, America Knits also launched its own brand — Seeds II Seams. The brand logo features a crow because as the crow flies, there is only 238 miles between links in the supply chain compared to the average garment’s 17,000-mile journey. The company has received numerous recognitions from the State of Georgia for the work it is doing. Labels on America Knits shirts state “Made in Small Town America” because that idea really means something to Hawkins. He admits there is no room to grow in Swainsboro because there isn’t enough of a workforce, but is open to the idea of replicating the business model in other small towns in America.
STA Conducts Business Session The second day of conference proceedings opened with the STA business session during which speeches were given, matters were voted on and awards were conferred. In his last speech as STA President, Evans Tindal, a Glen Raven plant manager, delivered his President’s Address. He was animated, wistful, funny and engaging as he assessed the value and deeper meaning of professional community and belonging and how STA has contributed to those ideals during his
(left to right): Keynote Speaker Dr. “Doc Bird” Birchak; Outgoing STA president Evans Tindal; and Incoming STA President Nathan Fisher.
personal career. After sharing stories of connection, friendship and family, he was met with a standing ovation.
Elections During the STA elections, Tindal was named STA chairman; Nathan Fisher, Nava Technologies, assumed the helm as president; Nathan Evans, Seydel-Woolley, became first vice president; Unifi’s Cory Bowman was elected second vice president; Tina Rogers, Techmer PM, was elected member-at-large; and Devin Steele was reelected secretary and treasurer. Reelected to the Board of Governors for a three-year term were Jessica Ethridge, Fi-Tech Inc., Chuck Butts, Murata Machinery USA Inc.; Jordan Renfrow, SYMTECH Inc.; Harriet Scarborough, Central Textiles Inc., Marvin Smith, Shuford Yarns LLC; and Vance Tiller, Impact Workforce Solutions. Before the STA Business Session concluded, several STA members received awards (See sidebar).
From STA Matters To National Matters Auggie Tantillo, president of SRG & Associates, and former president and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations, addressed the STA crowd during his “Textile Trade & Policy Issues” presentation. As the last speaker before the keynote, Tantillo talked about the current administration’s aggressive trade strategy and the resulting implications for the textile industry. He also discussed the recent closing of the de minimis shipping loophole. Tantillo expects the rest of the year to remain uncertain when it comes to trade matters.
Keynote Speaker To cap off the strong roster of speakers, Dr. Stephen “Doc Bird” Birchak offered an inspirational and wildly entertaining keynote speech focused on happiness and resilience. He increased the entertainment factor by using a variety of props to illustrate his ideas and embellish his anecdotes. Birchak also shared some deeply personal stories about adversity and loss. Key takeaways included attitude is everything, gratitude matters, and self-belief is important.
Closing Remarks To close the proceedings, STA’s newly elected president Fisher offered some remarks thanking Tindal for his excellent leadership of the organization and acknowledging the big shoes he had to fill. He also expressed his genuine excitement about what lies ahead for STA. “The STA Annual Meeting is more than just an industry event — it’s like a family reunion for the textile community,” remarked STA’s Steele. “This is where challenges turn into opportunities, and competitors often become collaborators. We gather not only to share insights and tackle the challenges of today’s economy, but to lift each other up, swap stories and build relationships that last a lifetime. Our connections run deeper than business cards.” “There’s nothing more to add,” Poston noted. “The Southern Textile Association’s summer conference wasn’t just a success, it was a reminder of the strength and the warmth of this incredible community.” TW
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ITMA ASIA + CITME, SINGAPORE 2025 PREVIEW
South Asia, Southeast Asia and the Middle East to modernize their operations, we are augmenting the series with a second location in Asia to better reach out to the textile hubs in these regions.” According to organizers, the Singapore edition of ITMA Asia + CITME “presents an exciting opportunity for manufacturers to expand their reach and forge new partnerships with the region’s top textile and garment producers and leading brand owners.”
Positive Industry Response
From Shanghai To Singapore:
ITMA Asia + CITME Grows Its Reach This fall, Singapore will host the 2025 edition of ITMA Asia + CITME, offering a strategic platform for textile manufacturers in South Asia, Southeast Asia and the Middle East. TW Special Report
S
ince ITMA Asia combined with CITME, the trade show has been held in Shanghai on a biennial schedule since 2008. Then in 2023, the owners of the ITMA Asia + CITME show — the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), and its partners the China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex) — announced they would host the event in a second Asian location. The chosen host city was Singapore, and ITMA Asia + CITME, Singapore 2025 will be held October 28-31, 2025, at the Singapore Expo. It is organized by ITMA Services and co-organized by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co.
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At the time the exhibition was announced, then CEMATEX President Ernesto Maurer, said: “We have successfully held seven editions of ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai. As part of our strategy to support the aspirations of local manufacturers in
Exhibitor response for the event surpassed expectations and organizers expanded the exhibition space to accommodate the high demand. In October, more than 770 companies from 31 countries and regions are booked to participate in more than 70,000 square meters of exhibition space. More than 30,000 visitors are expected to attend the four-day affair. Some 19 exhibit product sectors represent the entire textile manufacturing value chain, according to organizers. They are: Spinning; Winding; Nonwovens; Weaving; Knitting; Embroidery; Braiding; Finishing; Printing & Inks; Garment Making; Composites; Testing; Logistics; Recycling; Software & Automation; Colourants & Chemicals; Plant Ops Equipment; Services; and Research & Innovation.
ITMA Sustainability Forum ITMA Asia + CITME, Singapore 2025 organizers have developed a half-day sustainability forum to be held on October 20, 2025, under the
2025 Sector Plan, Singapore Expo H9
H10
H8
H6
H5
H4
H7
H3 H2
CARPARK
VISITOR REGISTRATION
H1 VISITOR REGISTRATION
Sectors Braiding, Nonwovens, Weaving
Embroidery, Knitting
Plant Ops Equipment, Spinning, Testing, Winding
Colourants & Chemicals, Garment Making, Printing & Inks
Composites, Finishing, Recycling, Research & Innovation, Software & Automation Logistics is available in halls H3 and H6. Services can be found in all halls.
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theme “Accelerating the Green Transition.” The forum will focus on insights from the European Commission and other sustainability leaders. Changes in Europe related to extended producer responsibility (EPR), Digital Product Passport, and eco-design requirements are requiring accelerated adoption of circular practices and modernized production. The forum was designed to help support manufacturers during this transition period. “The textile industry has a critical role to play to protect the planet,” said current CEMATEX President Alex Zucchi. “As Europe takes a lead to regulate the industry, all stakeholders have to ensure that we are ready to journey towards a circular economy. The forum will facilitate engaging discussions and exchange of ideas as the industry urgently accelerates its transition to a greener future.” Standard visitor rates are 50 Singaporean dollars (approximately $40) for a four-day pass, and S$25 ($20) for a one-day badge. Fees will increase for on-site registrations. The exhibition is open October 28-30 from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. and on October 31 from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. Attendees can download a mobile app on either iOS or Android devices to access interactive tools including an exhibitor list and online floorplan. “Textile manufacturers from South Asia, Southeast Asia and the Middle East are anticipating the exhibition as a strategic platform to source advanced machinery solutions to help them optimize production efficiency, increase output volumes, and enhance product quality to meet growing market demands,” Zucchi said. With strong exhibitor demand and a dedicated focus on sustainability, ITMA Asia + CITME’s Singapore 2025 exhibition offers manufacturers and brand owners alike a strategic platform to connect, innovate and prepare for a greener future. TW For more information about ITMA Asia + CITME, Singapore 2025, please visit itmaasiasingapore.com.
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Serving America’s Textile Manufacturers Non-contact precision spray technology and plasma treatment for sustainable finish applications. Providing jet, jigger, beam and cold pad batch dyeing machines with IR lab dyeing equipment. Continuous scouring, bleaching, mercerizing and singeing ranges. Finishing and coating lines for woven and knit fabrics, technical textiles and nonwovens. Detwisting, opening and web guiding for all fabric constructions. Textile calenders for softening, lustre change, embossing and recalipering of textile substrates. Foam generators, in line chemical mixing and blending systems. Water treatment and water recovery plants in textile facilities. Fabric surface finishing equipment: napping, sueding and shearing. Circular knitting machines for apparel, mattress, home furnishings and footwear markets. Turbotex Scrim Fabric machine. In-line vision systems for weaving and warp knitting machines, tenter frames, compactors, coating/laminating ranges. Slitting, spooling and rewinding machines. Ultrasonic slitting for loom state and finished fabrics. Automatic dispensing of powder dyestuffs and liquid chemicals for laboratory, and bulk textile production. Automated inspection and packaging systems for rolled goods. Textile Coating ranges, digital, flat bed and rotary screen printing and loop steamers.
For additional information on these companies contact Ian Mills at imills@fi-tech.com.
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ExecutiveForum Rieter CEO Thomas Oetterli Talks
The Future of Textile Spinning In an exclusive interview as Rieter reaches its 230th anniversary, Chairman and CEO Thomas Oetterli spoke with Textile World about leadership, technology, and the future of spinning. Thomas Oetterli
TW Special Report
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he global textile industry has few machinery and technology brands as well known and deeply rooted as Rieter, a brand synonymous with yarn spinning technology and pioneering textile innovations. This year marks Rieter’s 230th anniversary as a company serving the industry — a company with humble beginnings as a trading company dealing in spices and cotton. Founded April 15, 1795, when Johann Jacob Rieter established J.J. Rieter & Cie. in Winterthur, Switzerland, the company soon become proficient at yarn spinning and textile manufacturing processes in the early days of textile’s industrialization — a key time in the development of mass production. Rieter is well known for its focus on engineering
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and the development of comprehensive textile manufacturing solutions. In 1891, Rieter converted into a stock company bolstering its trajectory as a leader in equipping the advancing industry. As the company notes while recounting its history: “Despite economic challenges, Rieter has always used times of crisis as an opportunity to increase its efficiency and hone its strategic focus. Along with its subsidiaries Accotex, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, Suessen, SSM, and Temco, today Rieter is distinctive and well-known in the market.” Rieter focuses its approximately 4,500 employees worldwide on innovation, automation, digitalization, and the goal to “fully automate the value creation process of spinning mills by 2027.”
TextileWorld.com
A lofty goal, yes, but one that is not beyond Rieter’s reach. Recently Rieter CEO Thomas Oetterli sat down with Textile World to share some of the challenges of leadership, technology and the future of spinning.
TW: Mr. Oetterli, you have held several executive positions with significant Switzerland-based companies. How did those experiences prepare you for your CEO role at Rieter beginning in 2023? Oetterli: Prior to joining Rieter, I was CEO of Schindler, a leading global player in the elevator and escalator industry, where I navigated the pandemic and the disruption of global supply chains. This taught me a valuable lesson: success requires a clear vision, mission, and strategy. As CEO of Rieter,
I have worked together with our leadership team to articulate these clearly for the company so we can all work toward the same goal: Ensuring that Rieter’s cutting-edge technology strengthens and advances every spinning mill worldwide.
TW: What surprised you most about Rieter in your leadership role for the last two and a half years? Oetterli: Rieter’s company culture is one of a kind. The drive and passion of our people are second to none. Our employees live for customer success. This is what gives our storied brand its enduring strength. And it is what keeps us ahead! TW: Having experiences in other industries, what do you find unique about the textile industry?
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ExecutiveForum Oetterli: The cyclicality of the business is unique. Agility is therefore a key driver of our success and a core element of our strategy. This is why we have relocated production and research and development closer to customers, sharpening customer-centricity, accelerating the speed of product development, and improving agility.
TW: As Rieter celebrates its 230th anniversary, are there any significant events, decisions or a corporate direction that will shape the company going forward? Oetterli: Throughout its history, Rieter has been synonymous with pioneering innovations. Some of our world-firsts include the introduction of compact spinning, the launch of a card with the largest active carding area and ROBOspin, the industry’s first fully automated
piecing robot. Our new Campus in Winterthur, Switzerland, houses the most modern innovation and technology center of its kind, combining Rieter’s extensive know-how and long-standing experience under one roof. And the best is yet to come! We are now developing a prototype of a fully autonomous mill which we plan to showcase at ITMA 2027 in Hannover, Germany.
TW: What is the vision for Rieter under your leadership, and what is your underlying attitude for expanding on the company’s 230-year legacy? Oetterli: The future of spinning is automated, digital, and smart. As mills struggle to hire and retain workers, automation technology is essential in order to ensure consistent and efficient operations. We are stepping up research and
Rieter’s Campus in Winterthur, Switzerland, houses the most modern innovation and technology center of its kind.
development activities to fully automate the value stream by 2027 through autonomous transport systems and collaborative robotics. Rieter’s digital spinning suite ESSENTIAL will be the command-andcontrol center of smart and high-performing mills that lower cost and maximize returns. Customers will be able to fully focus on their yarn business by outsourcing their operations to Rieter technology and expertise.
Growing The Company
Celebrating 230 years of Rieter, from trading to technology leader.
TW: Rieter’s most recent acquisition has made headlines. Can you describe Rieter’s path of acquisitions during your tenure, the thought behind purchases and how they fit into your vision for the company? Oetterli: As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from
man-made fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Man-made fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. In May, we announced the strategic acquisition of Barmag, which will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and man-made fibers into yarn. Subject to regulatory approval, we expect the transaction to close before the end of the year. Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing man-made fibers, texturing machines, bulked continuous filament (BCF) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and — as an engineering services provider — offers solutions along the textile value chain. The transaction is fully in-line with our strategy and follows
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ExecutiveForum previous acquisitions, where we complemented our portfolio in shortstaple fiber machinery and expanded our footprint in components and machinery for man-made fiber production. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important AsiaPacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability. We are very proud to welcome Barmag to Rieter. We are convinced that this
combination will form a market leader in the textile industry which will create value for our shareholders, customers, and employees.
Forward-Looking Thoughts TW: Forward-looking questions are always difficult to ask a leader of a large publicly traded company, but what can you share about your views on the global textile industry? Oetterli: Spinning mills around the world struggle to recruit and retain skilled workers. This is part of a larger trend in manufacturing,
which faces a severe labor shortage amid a changing workforce. Rieter’s automation technology enables mills to turn this crisis into opportunity by helping to ensure consistent yarn quality, higher output, and greater resource efficiency — thus improving the economic efficiency of spinning mills. Rieter’s fully automated piecing robot ROBOspin is a case in point: Each week in spinning mills across the globe, this pioneering machine pieces more than 1,000,000 yarn breaks, resulting in a reduction of about 2,000 working hours for operators.
Rieter’s automated piecing robot ROBOspin is a transformative automation solution.
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TextileWorld.com
TW: What significant events do you think may alter the trajectory of the global textile industry in terms of growth, technology shifts and prevailing trends? Oetterli: Digitization is transforming production processes in every industry, driven by the Internet of Things and Artificial Intelligence (AI). The potential for the spinning industry is huge and Rieter is working to achieve its vision of a fully digitized mill. ESSENTIAL — the Rieter Digital Spinning Suite — is a steppingstone toward the fully digitized mill as it provides spinning
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ExecutiveForum
Rieter’s card C 81 features intelligent sensors.
operations with real-time data streams and key performance indicators along with improvement suggestions for efficiency, production, energy, and quality.
how is Rieter helping customers close the loop? Oetterli: Rieter uses its technology expertise to offer a complete recycling
spinning system for both ring and rotor spinning lines. This enables customers to spin fiber from used garments and textile
waste into yarn, thus helping to close the loop in textiles. One highlight is Rieter’s recycling toolbox: It makes spinning fine ring yarns with high quality and a high share of recycled fibers possible. Each of the three tools in the toolbox contributes to another yarn quality criterion. Pre-carding cleans the recycled fibers perfectly before they enter the spinning process, combing removes very short fibers and compacting adds the finishing touch to the yarn. The editors of Textile World appreciate Thomas Oetterli’s candor and willingness to share Rieter’s vision. The take-away — according to Oetterli, is to look for “automated, digital, and smart”to lead developments in this essential sector. TW
TW: AI is the big buzzword of 2025. What is the reality of AI in the products/technologies Rieter is focused on? Oetterli: AI helps to minimize energy consumption and optimize raw material yield. Rieter is incorporating AI into existing machinery. A case in point is Rieter’s card C 81, which features intelligent sensors that set the carding gap to the ideal size and monitor contaminant content in real-time. TW: With many textile manufacturers raising concerns about climate change,
ESSENTIAL is a stepping stone toward the vision of a fully digitized spinning mill.
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ExecutiveForum A Conversation With AATCC ‘s Gregg Woodcock: From Curious Textile
Student To Executive Director The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Executive Director Gregg Woodcock discusses his personal textile journey, industry relationships and new leadership role at AATCC. By James M. Borneman, Editor In Chief
I
n response to the World War I blockade of Germany, when the export of European dyes to the United States halted, 140 men gathered at the Engineer’s Club in Boston in 1921 and established the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC). Its critical mission at that time was to develop standards for producing dye products consistently — which was urgently needed — and in doing so, the groundwork was laid for further development of test methods, evaluation procedures and literature that brought a semblance of order to the expanding dyeing and finishing industry. For many in the textile industry, AATCC is a trusted resource for standardized textile test methods, training, publications, and engagement with like-minded industry professionals. AATCC standards became the
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arbiter for how textile manufacturers met the specifications of products ordered by their clients. Imagine the newfound ability for client and manufacturer to converse, compare competitive sources, and have a “standard”by which to evaluate order fulfillment. Even today, when textile products are at the end of production, prior to shipping, or received by the next client downstream in the supply chain, AATCC standardized test methods provide a baseline that, technically and systematically, represent the product’s characteristics. Late last year, AATCC named Gregg Woodcock executive director of the association — an organization that has played a significant role in his life-long career in textiles. Woodcock’s experience ranges from earning his textile engineering degree in 1985 to his most recent
TextileWorld.com
Gregg Woodcock
role as senior manager, Product Quality/Safety at Hanesbrands Inc. Woodcock recently sat down with Textile World to share some of the challenges and insights gained throughout his textile career and how those experiences prepared him for his current responsibilities as AATCC executive director.
TW: What attracted you to the textile industry? Woodcock: My father, Dr. Harry W. Woodcock, is a theoretical physicist who spent his entire career teaching at the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science (PCT&S) which is now Thomas Jefferson University. As the dependent of a college professor, I had the opportunity to not pay tuition to attend the college. As a curious student, following my junior year of high school I participated in a week-long summer
textile camp at PCT&S, and I was hooked. The combination of zero tuition and the new-found interest in textiles led me to major in textile engineering.
TW: How did your academic background — a degree in textile engineering as well as a master’s degree from the Institute of Textile Technology —impact your career in textiles? Woodcock: As with most college students, I thought I knew everything after receiving my undergraduate degree. I quickly learned in graduate school that I didn’t know what I didn’t know. I’ve carried that lesson with me throughout my career in industry, and now at AATCC. Even after 60 years of living and learning, I learn new things every day. I spent the first decade of my career largely working in dyeing and finishing mills. My education made
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ExecutiveForum the work lessons easier to comprehend and work taught me a depth of knowledge that you can’t get from textbooks. The degrees also taught me the language of textiles. Having the language and the engineering perspective allowed me to problem solve with a larger group of coworkers than if I had studied something other than textiles.
TW: What was your early career path like in textiles? Woodcock: Probably the most significant detail of my early career was change. Over the first 11 years, I built three houses across North Carolina, moving multiple times. A key lesson was to never burn bridges; you never know what the future holds. I left a particular dyeing and finishing mill, was gone for three years, and then came back in a higher-level position. By leaving the first time with the right attitude, I was welcomed back. And one of the people that worked with me at that mill today works at AATCC. TW: During your career, what impact did AATCC have on you, your work and your personal growth? Woodcock: Back in college, AATCC was a legendary organization; there was a real mystique about it. There were so many critically important test methods that came from AATCC.
For a large chunk of my career, I was responsible for product quality, including testing; it was during this stage that my relationship with AATCC really took off. I joined AATCC as a member and became involved with multiple research committees and eventually became chair of RA88, Home Laundering Technology, which then led me to be a member of ECR — the Executive Committee on Research. These were excellent experiences that broadened my personal knowledge, benefited the company that I worked for, and helped me make new connections across the industry. Not long after my term on ECR ended, I became interested in growing my relationship with AATCC, examining different paths. Before anything concrete happened, the executive director role at AATCC opened up and here I am.
TW: When you came on board as AATCC’s executive director, what surprised you the most about the association and was there anything you learned about AATCC that you didn’t know? Woodcock: Having been an active member for more than a dozen years, I knew about the comradery among the members. But I
wasn’t fully aware of the staff at the AATCC Technical Center. They are an incredible group of people that do a tremendous amount of work for the association, often behind the scenes. They are highly
Since its inception, AATCC has published test methods, evaluation procedures and other literature.
talented and dedicated professionals. They feel like a “work family.” I “knew”of the AATCC Foundation, but I wasn’t fully aware of it. It’s an incredible part of AATCC that just does one thing: it gives money to students in pursuit of textile education. Each year, the foundation gives up to $132,000 in scholarships, fellowships, and research grants. Signing the checks for these gifts is the highlight of my year. I’m tremendously grateful for the generous
members that have built the foundation, including Charles E. Gavin III, who was instrumental in founding the scholarship program and gave the first financial gift to the foundation.
TW: Anything interesting that people may not know about AATCC? Woodcock: I know this might sound funny, but AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent, WOB – without optical brightener, is not made by the same company that makes the number one selling laundry detergent in the United States. I feel like I’ve been given the formula to CocaCola or Colonel Sander’s 11 herbs and spices. What really differentiates AATCC detergent is its consistency — it doesn’t change with the times. The same is NOT true for detergents sold at retail. Lab testing demands consistency over time and AATCC detergent delivers consistency. TW: When you are asked,“What is the AATCC?” what is your response? Woodcock: I asked myself that question shortly after I arrived. I put a one-page document together to help me fully understand. Key points are:
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ExecutiveForum • A professional association of members, including professionals, students, and corporations; • Founded in 1921 to serve the global textile industry; • A 501(c)(6) nonprofit organization; • Focuses on textile testing methods, standards, and education for the textile, apparel, and related industries; • Publishes the AATCC Technical Manual (Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures), which includes test methods widely used for textile quality control; • Publishes the AATCC Journal of Research, a peer-reviewed scholarly journal. The journal’s aim is to advance and disseminate knowledge in all areas pertinent to textile research; • Provides training, conferences, and networking opportunities for professionals in the field; and • Includes the AATCC Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization that provides scholarships, fellowships, and research grants to undergraduate and graduate students studying textiles in the United States.
TW: AATCC has always been a gold standard for test methods and communication by way of the standards. What is the
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process like for developing standards, and how does AATCC understand the need for a new standard and develop a method to support it? Woodcock: From my earliest days at PCT&S, to today, AATCC really has been the gold standard for textile test methods. And the secret sauce to the process of developing new standards and supporting existing standards is our members. AATCC is made up a very diverse group of individuals that represent all facets of the textile supply chain. We have people that span the entire vertical, from fiber formation to textile manufacturing through cut/sew, to brands and retailers. Then there are academics and suppliers, who are absolutely critical to the long-term success of AATCC and the standards development process. AATCC has dozens of research committees, all made up of members. The research committees meet twice a year — in May and November — and work on new test methods and update existing test methods. Committee members are welcome to propose new test methods that will benefit the industry. Each committee is chaired by a member — not by AATCC staff — and each committee is made up of volunteer members of the association. And the best part is that the committee meetings
TextileWorld.com
(left to right): AATCC Executive Director Gregg Woodcock; former executive vice president Diana Wyman, and John “Jack” Daniels, who was previously executive vice president for more than 20 years.
are free-of-charge to attend, and — thanks to COVID — offer a hybrid option.
TW: Education has always been an important part of AATCC, how has that evolved from when you were a student? How do you see it changing with the shifts in the textile industry? Woodcock: The biggest change in textile education over the last few decades has been the reduction in the number of colleges dedicated to textiles in the country. There are still plenty of schools to obtain a degree in textiles but only one school/college of textiles remains. Along with this change, the most common degrees have changed as well. There used to be a lot more textile chemists, textile engineers and textile
technologists. Today, it’s textile/apparel design, textile/fashion merchandising, fashion management, and fashion and apparel studies, for example. This changes some of the scholarships that the AATCC Foundation offers; two of the more recent scholarships added to the annual offering are a Textile Design Scholarship and a Textile Merchandising Scholarship. A changing industry also impacts the educational classes that AATCC conducts; we now include a Mastering Textile Specifications workshop that is less technical than traditional offerings, but appeals more to designers, merchandisers, and product developers. Though we have “chemists and colorists” in our name, we are adapting to the changes in industry and academia.
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TW: Industry events and meetings have always been a large part of the organization. How are they structured today? Are certain types of meetings, conferences or digital options shifting in importance? Woodcock: Industry associations are an important part of every industry. Since COVID, corporate travel budgets have been under more pressure than ever. Remote options have a real place that should not be abandoned, but so does face-to-face human interaction. The relationships and camaraderie are enhanced by participating in industry events. Because of the stress on travel budgets, a collective of textile industry associations has been organized to help all the associations thrive. It’s called the Alphabet Soup Collective. It now includes 12 different organizations that meet regularly to discuss shared issues and seek out opportunities for collaboration. To further the collaboration, AATCC and SEAMS — the Association and Voice of the U.S. Sewn Products Industry — are jointly hosting a fall meeting we are calling “Fabricating the Future. ”It will be held in Savannah, Ga., October 5-7, 2025. There is a tremendous amount of content packed into the event that will appeal to both textile and apparel experts, plus plenty of
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opportunity to network and expand horizons.
TW: As executive director, what is your vision for AATCC and how is the vision impacted by the global textile industry? Woodcock: For more than 100 years, AATCC has been a consistent beacon of service to the textile industry. Though founded in the United States and knowing that the first word in our name is “American”, we have become and will continue to be more international. The AATCC Technical Manual is now the AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures. In January 2025, I signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Textile Association of India (TAI). In August, I will participate in a signing ceremony for a Mutual Recognition Agreement with CTES, the China Textile Engineering Society. Today, the largest AATCC student chapter is in Pakistan — NED University in Karachi. AATCC represents the American textile industry, but definitely has a global focus. The textile industry today is global in scope and so is AATCC. Over time, things will change. People might say “that’s not your father’s AATCC;”and when that happens, I’ll know I’ve been successful. TW
NONWOVENS COMPETENCE
OUTSTANDING FUNCTIONALITY
A role with infinite possibilities. No matter of the end use – diaper, wipe, filter, surgical gowns or geotextile – CHT finishes and DURON spin finishes offer a tailor-made solution for every nonwovens application. Our modern processing auxiliaries provide process safety and a large range of functionalities. Soft and strong, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, antistatic – unwind our nonwovens expertise by yourself. Our application team for fiber auxiliaries is happy to help if you have further questions. Please contact directly fibreauxiliaries@cht.com
More about us Textile World 2025 QUARTERLY ISSUE III at www.cht.com
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Nonwovens/Technical Textiles Andritz Supplies neXline Spunlace Line To Gesalife Hubei Gesalife Industry Co. Ltd., China, has successfully commissioned its first crosslapped configuration neXline spunlace production line from Austria-based ANDRITZ. Operational since late 2024, the line produces up to 1,000 kilograms per hour of spunlace roll goods, with crosslapper speeds of 130 meters per minute. The installation supports Gesalife’s expansion in wipes and hygiene product converting, aligning spunlace output with its existing capabilities. The company manufactures hygiene products, disposable medical supplies and protective equipment. Li Jun, chairman of Gesalife, said: “This new spunlace production line and the cooperation with Andritz marks a major leap forward for Gesalife. We look forward to leveraging this technology to support future innovation and growth.”
ALMA Installs New Dilo Systems Needling Line To expand its polypropylene fiber production Italy-based ALMA S.p.A., a floor coverings specialist, has installed a new nonwoven needling line from Germany-based Dilo Systems GmbH. The line serves ALMA’s markets in exhibition carpet, artificial grass, automotive interiors and domestic applications. The system includes DiloTemafa fiber blending and filtration system, DiloSpinnbau card feeding, state-of-the-art carding, high-speed crosslapping from DiloMachines, and 6-meter-wide needling with DI-LOOP for highspeed structuring, in addition to Industry 4.0 DI-Connect controls. According to ALMA, the line has been installed and started up in a smooth, straightforward way, synchronizing DILO’s team with
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ALMA’s operating and maintenance department. The launch provided a quick start-up and full production capacity.
CCI Obtains U.S. Air Force Funding For CF3D® Technology Continuous Composites (CCI), Coeur D’Alene, Idaho, has secured multi-million-dollar funding from the U.S. Air Force to advance hightemperature materials using its CF3D® technology. The first funding phase will establish baseline material properties for CF3D-produced components, while the second phase will expand to full-scale production and flight testing. CF3D enables automated manufacturing of continuous fiber composites in near-net shapes, offering precise control and scalability for high-performance applications. According to CCI, by integrating advanced materials fiber steering and automated manufacturing, CF3D enables the production of lightweight, high-performance structures with unmatched precision and scalability.
Nonwovenn Invests In MediTech Division England-based Nonwovenn has invested in its MediTech division, adding a new medical manufacturing suite at its headquarters location. The facility includes a Class 8 standard performing cleanroom and supports the company’s three-year plan to drive 14 percent annual growth through innovation, partnerships and expansion. Recent product developments include x-ray detectable materials for surgical safety, reinforced CMC hydrofiber for wound care, and a translucent dressing scaffold that enables incision site inspection without removal. John Birkett, medical business director at Nonwovenn, said: “The investment
Cal Poly Ponoma Assistant Professor To Design PPE For Agricultural Workers Cindy Cordoba, assistant professor of apparel and merchandising management at Pomona, Calif.-based California State Polytechnic University Pomona has received a $398,926 state grant to co-design, produce and distribute the first 100 HeatShield garments for agricultural workers in Southern California. Farmworkers will participate in the design process, including fabric selection, prototypes and field trials. The garments aim to reduce occupational health risks, as agricultural workers are significantly more likely to die from heat exposure than workers in other sectors. The grant was awarded from the Extreme Heat and Community Resilience Program as part of the Governor’s Office of Land Use and Climate Innovation. “According to a 2021 research study, extreme heat exposure for outdoor workers could triple by mid-century, putting $39.3 billion in annual earnings at risk,” Cordoba said. “These facts, along with what I’ve seen and learned from workers firsthand, have motivated me to pursue a solution that is both equitable and sustainable. I believe that through circular, user-centered design, we can create protective clothing that addresses the realities of climate vulnerability and uplifts those who are too often left out of the conversation.”
reflects our commitment to quality, innovation and continuing to serve the evolving needs of our partners in the sector across the UK, Europe and Middle East.” TW
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to share information, and demonstrate products and services to attendees who may be potential partners or future clients — tabletop exhibits; and fast-paced, five minute Lightning Talks. The talks will take place November 18 and 19 in the afternoon. INDA also is hosting extended networking with three receptions — the official welcome reception on November 17, as well as receptions and the chance to view the exhibits at the end of the day on November 18 and 19.
Absorbent Hygiene
Innovation Awards
Products In The Spotlight INDA’s annual Hygienix™ event will gather in Orlando for the 2025 edition. TW Special Report
H
ygienix ™ , an annual event focused on the absorbent hygiene products (AHP) industry organized by the Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), will be held in Orlando, Fla., November 17-20, 2025, at the Omni Orlando Championsgate hotel. Hygienix brings conference sessions, workshops, tabletop exhibits and product showcases, networking, and the Hygienix Innovation Award™ together in a single event for industry leaders, innovators and professionals from the AHP industry. First up, on November 17, are three workshops designed to provide hands-on learning and insights. James Robinson, principal, Absorbent Hygiene Insights LLC, is hosting a workshop titled “Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence.” Crown Abbey CEO Heidi Beatty will lead a workshop on “Innovations in Menstrual Care.” A third workshop named “Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics” will
be conducted by Natalia Richer, director of business development, Diaper Testing International.
Conference Topics As of TW’s press time, INDA was still finalizing the speakers and the presentation titles for the conference. But, this year’s conference program will focus on key areas that are trending in the AHP industry: • Sustainability and Circularity — including biobased materials, natural fibers, packaging innovations, end-of-life solutions and safe operating limits; • Consumer and Market Insights — including private label product growth, regional market outlooks and skin health; • Product Innovation — including strategies to manage hurdles when bringing period care products to market; and • Regulations and Standards — including regulatory updates and testing methods. In 2025, Hygienix offers participating companies two opportunities
Finalists for the Hygienix Innovation Award will give presentations about their nominated products to event attendees on November 18. At the close of the event on November 20, the winner will be announced. As of TW’s press time, the finalists had not been determined, but the products always cover breakthrough ideas in technology and product solutions. Last year’s winner was HIRO Technologies, a start-up out of Austin, Texas, awarded for its biodegradable MycoDigestable™ Diapers. “Having attended every Hygienix since its inception, what I always found valuable was the ability to connect with both my suppliers and customers at the same event,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, director of Education & Technical Affairs, INDA. “Having both my technical and commercial team members with me in those meetings allowed us to take quick decisions that accelerated programs and ultimately enhanced our speed to market, elevated our hit rate and improved our overall ROI. Now with INDA, I appreciate the efforts made to provide actionable market and technical content and facilitate the supply chain connectivity that was so critical for my success in the corporate world. Hygienix is an exhausting week in the very best possible way.” TW For more information about Hygienix™ — including the full conference schedule, speakers and topics — please visit hygienix.org.
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ated Conference Committee and attendees at RISE, with each group’s votes carrying equal weight. All votes are tallied during the conference and the winner is presented with the award before the end of RISE. Last year’s winner was Hempitecture Inc. for its PlantPanel™ product (See “From
RISE® 2025: Where Research
Meets Real-World Innovation The 15th annual RISE® conference will bring industry and academia together in a forum for science, innovation and collaboration in engineered fabrics. TW Special Report
T
he 15th RISE® — Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics — conference is set to take place October 14-15, 2025. The two-day event, co-organized by the Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) and The Nonwovens Institute, will take place at the McKimmon Conference and Training Center on the NC State campus, Raleigh, N.C. RISE focuses on emerging technologies and ideas with the aim of connecting innovations with realworld applications for professionals in the nonwoven/engineered fabrics industry. Speakers included experienced industry, government and academic personnel. While the event is created by a nonwovens organization, topics and focus areas stretch beyond nonwovens with a large focus on materials science. There definitely are reasons to attend for those who do not work exclusively in the nonwovens industry. Key topics covered at RISE include: • Recycling methods, raw materials alternatives and circular economy; • Biobased/hybrid fibers and natural-synthetic blends;
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• Innovations in coatings, additives and adhesives; and • Enzyme technology and the biodegradation processes. Speakers from Nova Institute, Total Corbion, Fibroline, Gottlieb Binder, CJ Biopolymers, Bast Fibers, Keel Labs, Hills Inc. and INDA, among other companies are committed to speak during this year’s event. Please visit the RISE website for the full conference lineup and schedule. On Monday, October 13, a day ahead of the conference, there is a golf tournament starting at noon at the Lonnie Poole Golf Course on the NC State campus. The conference also is offering tours of NWI from 35 p.m. at the conclusion of the conference proceedings on October 15.
RISE® Innovation Award, Research Posters Nominations have already concluded for the RISE ® Innovation Award, which honors innovation in nonwovens that solve problems and meet unmet needs. The top three nominations as selected by an INDA Technical Advisory Board (TAB) will present their technologies during the RISE conference. The winner is determined by votes cast by TAB, the affili-
Hemp Farm To House Frame: The Hempitecture Story,” TW, this issue). An evening reception, to be held from 5-6 p.m. on October 14, will allow attendees to view current research work of graduate students who are enrolled in a variety of nonwoven, textile and fiber programs as well as corporate research posters.
Pre-RISE® Webinar On Thursday, October 2, INDA will host a preconference webinar on the topic “Enhancing Softness and Loft in Nonwoven Fabrics.” The presentation — featuring ExxonMobil Technology & Engineering Co.’s Dr. Paul E. Rollin Jr., senior principal scientist – Global Hygiene, and Thomas Cugnon, Hygiene Market Development Lead, Europe — will explore the role of ExxonMobil’s Vistamaxx™ performance polymers in softness including approaches to achieving a high-loft feel. “What I’ve really come to enjoy about RISE is that it is one of the few places where you can find a blend of scalable academic and independent lab research side-by-side with fresh to the market industrial innovations,” said Dr. Matt O’Sickey, director of Education & Technical Affairs, INDA. “Observing how this mix fosters cross-pollination and synergies in the fiber, engineered fabrics, and nonwoven space is invigorating.” Make plans to attend this year’s RISE conference and participate in this unique forum where research, innovation and commercialization really do intersect. The conference showcases what’s next, but also fosters collaboration and helps accelerate ideas. TW For more information about RISE ® , please visit riseconf.net.
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AT EXPO 2025 PREVIEW
AT Expo 2025:
A Hub For Textile Leaders And Innovators
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he COVID pandemic halted the Advanced Textiles Association’s (ATA’s) plans to host its annual trade show in Indianapolis, Ind. The year 2020 was the association’s 100th anniversary and it was looking forward to a standout event to mark the occasion. While COVID had other ideas, ATA is excited to host the 2025 edition of the AT Expo at the Indiana Convention Center in downtown Indianapolis. Education sessions begin on November 4 and the show floor is open November 5-7, 2025.
What To Expect The show will again be collocated with Messe Stuttgart’s Sun Shading Expo North America. According to ATA, the collocation of the events for these two complementary industries offers value in terms of connecting with customers, suppliers, end-product manufacturers, and industry counterparts, as well as providing growth opportunities. Attendees have access to both events including the combined show floor, show floor education and networking receptions. The only exceptions are AT Expo’s Emerging Technologies (ET) conference, which is only open to AT Expo registrants; and Sun Shading Expo classroom education, which is only open to Sun Shading Expo registrants.
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The Advanced Textile Association’s (ATA’s) annual conference will take place in Indianapolis in November. TW Special Report The show floor will feature the ATA Hub, which is a great place to learn more about ATA or join a member division open meeting.
Education For an add-on charge, attendees can arrive one day early to kick off their expo week at the ET Conference. On Tuesday, November 4, a full day of presentations will conclude with the ET Networking Reception from 5:30-6:30 p.m. Topics will cover a variety of subjects from medical textiles and biomaterials to space innovations and artificial intelligence. A full lineup of speakers and topics is available on the AT Expo website. Education continues on the show floor stage beginning Wednesday morning. These more informal, 30minute sessions are designed to be interactive and digestible.
New In 2025 ATA has planned several new features for attendees at the upcoming
expo. Networking Roundtables will allow fabricators and suppliers to engage in topic-driven and candid conversations. It’s free to attend these peer-to-peer sessions that will cover topics such as tariffs, workforce development and overcoming sales objections, among other topics. ATA also will present a State of the Industry Update, which highlights findings from its annual State of the Industry survey. This session, to be held on the show floor, is open to all expo attendees. In addition to the economic outlook, growth markets and industry trends content, the presentation will include testimonials about ATA programming and how it helps support member success. “Talking Textiles” — a daily live podcast — will be recorded on the show floor. According to ATA, visitors will be able to hear “textile leaders, innovators and changemakers” as they are interviewed on subjects such as trends, challenges and industry stories for the podcast. ATA will publish a full schedule of hosts and guests as the expo date draws closer.
Other Notable Events Returning to AT Expo is the Marine Fabricators Association (MFA) Roadshow. Julie Tinsman from Strataglass, Jeff Newkirk from Precision Custom Canvas and Kyle
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Van Damme from Marine Tops Unlimited, will host sessions on marine fabric selection, traditional patterning techniques and U-Zips. The roadshow is free to attend, but registration is required to save a seat. ATA is again giving women a chance to meet and network during the expo. On Friday, November 7, before the show floor opens, the Women’s Networking Walk will take place. Later the same morning, women also can participate in the Women’s Leadership Empowerment session. Under the title “Balancing Priorities for Success,” the session will impart advice and ideas on managing work and life while building a career.
Nighttime Social Events To kick things off, the Professional Awning Manufacturers Association (PAMA), ATA Canada and the Fabric Structures Association (FSA) are hosting Pub Night at Pins Mechanical Tuesday, November 4, from 7-9 p.m. Members of PAMA, ATA Canada and FSA are welcome to connect with peers and network in a relaxed atmosphere. The event is sponsored by Herculite®, Trivantage® and Sunbrella®. On Wednesday, November 5, AT Expo will host the official opening reception at 4 p.m. The reception is included with all registration types to give all participants the chance to mix and mingle to wrap up the first full day. The reception is sponsored by Herculite. Attendees who opt to purchase a separate ticket during registration can move from the opening reception to Industry Night at 7 p.m., which this year will be held at the Slippery Noodle Inn in downtown Indianapolis. As always, live music will be provided by ATA member band Hangin’ by a Thread. Event sponsors are Herculite, Sunbrella, TVF and Weathermax®. TW For more information about Advanced Textiles Expo — including the full conference schedule with speakers — as well as to register, please visit advancedtextiles expo.com.
Advanced Textiles Expo® 2025 Monday, November 3 Onsite Registration/Check-In Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Exhibitor Install . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
Tuesday, November 4 Onsite Registration/Check-in Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Exhibitor Install . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. ** Emerging Technologies (ET) Conference: Indiana Convention Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m.-5:30 p.m. ** Emerging Technologies Networking Reception: Indiana Convention Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5:30 p.m.-6:30 p.m. Pub Night @ Pins Mechanical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 p.m.-9:00 p.m.
Wednesday, November 5 Onsite Registration/Check-in Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Show Floor Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Show Floor Demonstrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Show Floor Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Industry Podcasts Live . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. NEW! Networking Roundtables. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2:00 p.m.-3:00 p.m. Expo Opening Reception . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4:00 p.m.-5:00 p.m. ** Industry Night @ The Slippery Noodle Inn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 p.m. -9:00 p.m.
Thursday, November 6 Onsite Registration/Check-in Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Show Floor Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Show Floor Demonstrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Show Floor Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Industry Podcasts Live . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Textiles Challenge Qualifying Rounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m. State of the Industry Update . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1:30 p.m.-2:00 p.m. Textiles Challenge Finals - Championship Round . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2:30 p.m.-4:00 p.m.
Friday, November 7 Onsite Registration/Check-in Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m. Women’s Networking Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7:00 a.m.-8:00 a.m. Show Floor Demonstrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Show Floor Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m. Women’s Leadership Session - Exact Time TBD . . . . . . . . . . . . 9:30 a.m.-11:30 a.m. Marine Fabricators Association (MFA) Roadshow . . . . . . . . . . . 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Industry Podcasts Live . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10:00 a.m.-noon Exhibitor Dismantle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1:00 p.m.-8:00 p.m.
Saturday, November 8 Exhibitor Dismantle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8:00 a.m.-noon Unless otherwise noted on the agenda, all activities will take place at the Indiana Convention Center. **
Requires an add-on purchase during registration
(information accurate as of TW ’s press time)
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Hempitecture’s HempWool® is a 90-percent hemp fiber batt insulation material designed to replace mineral wool and fiberglass in insulation applications. It can be installed in wood or metal framing systems.
From Hemp Farm To House Frame: The
Hempitecture Story Hempitecture is bringing natural fibers, hemp in particular, to the forefront of sustainable building design. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
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N
ot every textile entrepreneur begins their journey in the textile space. Some arrive by way of a completely different path — driven by a problem they can’t ignore and a vision for change. For Matthew “Mattie” Mead, co-founder and CEO of Jerome, Idaho-based Hempitecture Inc., that moment came while studying architecture, environmental science, and entrepreneurship at Hobart College in Geneva, New York. As Mead became immersed in the world of sustainable design and materials, “I saw a big problem,” Mead said. “Buildings and their operations are responsible for nearly 40 percent of our carbon footprint. In seeking to understand how to solve that issue, I became enamored with the idea of using plant-based, sustainable fibers.” He was inspired to use hemp as a carbon-storing, high-
performance material, and what started as a vision, quickly became Mead’s mission.
Leveraging Hemp In 2013, Mead co-founded Hempitecture — a company he touts as a “Public Benefit Corporation with a mission to benefit both people and planet through carbon capturing materials.” Mead works with Co-Founder and Chief Innovation Officer Tommy Gibbons to develop Hempitecture’s biobased construction materials. The company primarily uses decorticated and cleaned industrial hemp fiber to create its products, along with some cotton and thermoplastic fibers including polyethylene and polyester biocomponent bonding fibers. Depending on the use case, the company may also create products using polylactic acid (PLA) fibers.
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“Hemp is our cornerstone because it’s fast-growing, regenerative, and has ideal insulation properties,” Mead said. “We like to consider it our carbon capturing engine behind our product portfolio. We blend the hemp with other fibers, depending on the performance characteristics we are seeking to achieve.” Jerome, Idaho, was selected for the company’s headquarters and manufacturing location because it’s in the heartland of agricultural industrial hemp fiber production, according to Mead. “From a logistical standpoint, it’s centrally located to where hemp is grown, but our factory is located right on Interstate 84, allowing efficient distribution of our finished nonwovens,” Mead shared. “In Idaho, we’ve found great team members, we’ve received support from the Idaho Department of Commerce, and we’re proud to support this agricultural opportunity in Idaho, an agriculturally aligned state. “Agriculture is at the heart of what we do,” Mead emphasized. “By sourc-
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Hempitecture’s facility is in Jerome, Idaho, in the heartland of agricultural industrial hemp fiber production.
ing fibers like hemp from American farmers, we’re creating new markets for regenerative crops. We’re turning farms into supply chains and putting rural communities at the center of climate solutions.” Hempitecture also operates five distribution centers around the country.
Hempitecture’s product portfolio includes PlantPanel™ — a continuous insulation panel made from biobased fibers for exterior or interior wall assemblies — as well as HempWool™ fiber batt insulation.
First Introduction: HempWool® Hempitecture’s first innovation was HempWool®. This natural fiber batt insulation material contains hemp, but no wool as the name may suggest. The wool portion of the name arises from the fact that HempWool was designed to replace mineral wool and fiberglass products traditionally used in the construction business. HempWool comprises 90-percent hemp and 10percent binder fiber. “We initially collaborated with Europe-based OEMs and other manufacturers who had experience in natural fiber insulation and nonwovens,” Mead said. “That helped us understand the machinery and process requirements. With their support, we developed a unique configuration of nonwoven machinery with modifications so it can handle natural fibers like hemp, which behave differently than synthetic fibers.” Eventually, Hempitecture brought the technology stateside and made it their own, modifying, improving, and ultimately scaling it into a domestic operation. Hempitecture began development of HempWool in its production facility in 2022, and after working with academic and industry partners, launched the product for sale in the U.S. market.
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Mead said. Hempitecture utilizes cotton shoddy fiber for the coldchain packaging products, which helps divert landfill bound textiles into new materials. “While hemp and building materials are our core focus, we also produce products for a variety of industries needing nonwoven materials using a range of different fibers,” Mead noted.
Hempitecture Advantage
HempWool®can be handled and cut without special tools or protective gear.
HempWool currently is used primarily in residential construction, but Hempitecture is working on expanding its reach into other markets including industrial and commercial for wall, roof, and floor assemblies. “Current capabilities include fiber opening and cleaning, fiber treatment, airlay and thermal bonding, and nonwoven cutting,” Mead shared. “We also can offer custom formulations for partners across industries and are always open to collaborating on nonwoven projects.”
Whole Home Solutions Once HempWool hit the market, Hempitecture looked for other areas where its natural fiber technology could make an impact. The company is building a portfolio of whole home thermal and acoustic insulation solutions, but is not limiting itself to building products. “Manufacturing is about continuous improvement, and we continue to develop our manufacturing technologies and capabilities to advance our product portfolio,” Mead said. “While we started with HempWool, it’s an evolving product as we continue to advance our fiber compositions, our treatment technologies and our operational efficiency.”
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PlantPanel ™ — a continuous thermo-acoustic insulation panel made from biobased fibers for exterior or interior wall assemblies — and FiberFill™ — a blowable loosefill insulation material ideal for retrofits and attics — became the next two products offered by Hempitecture. In addition, it offers a carpet underlay named FiberPad, and an eco-friendly building material called Hempcrete. “We also entered the cold-chain packaging sector, developing a highperforming hemp-based liner for shipping food and pharmaceuticals,”
According to Mead, Hempitecture’s products compete head-tohead on thermal performance. The company has completed ASTM C518 thermal testing, ASTM E84 testing and ISO-based lifecycle assessments to back up its claims. “From an Rvalue perspective, we’re competitive with mineral wool and fiberglass, but our product phase shift resistance is improved over these conventional products,” Mead noted. “Hemp fiber insulation has incredible phase shift resistance — storing heat and then releasing it as temperature shifts from hot to cool, reducing heating and cooling loads,” Mead said. “It’s also highly dimensionally stable so it won’t sag or slump over time. “From an embodied carbon and health standpoint, we’re significantly better. We’re continually optimizing our products and we’re advancing our fire-resistance ratings to better align with commercial and industrial standards.”
Hempitecture is focused on healthier and more sustainable alternative construction materials for the whole building including insulation and acoustic products.
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Mead notes however that there is a lot more to insulation than just Rvalue. In addition to making the grade on thermal performance, Hempitecture products offer other significant advantages. They are nontoxic, vapor open, carbon-storing and safe to touch. HempWool can be handled, cut and installed all without wearing gloves. Hemp also confers a natural mold- and pest-resistance. Properties can be further enhanced with the company’s proprietary fiber fortification line that can increase fiber consistency, and improve flame and pest resistance. “We also enhance our fibers with our fiber treatment technology, which is typically borate-based chemistries — a naturally occurring mineral with a long safety record,” Mead added. In addition, Hempitecture products are landfill-safe and mostly biodegradable. “Unlike traditional insulation, which can persist for decades releasing harmful substances as it degrades, our materials break down safely,” Mead said. “Because our products are airlay thermal bonded, we do use small amounts of polymers, but are always monitoring the world of biobased bonding fibers.”
Wide-Scale Adoption Response to Hempitecture products has been incredibly positive, especially among architects, builders and homeowners who prioritize health and sustainability. “The biggest hurdle is awareness, and people don’t always know that better alternatives exist,” Mead reflected. “We also face typical industry barriers like code compliance and cost competitiveness at scale.” In 2024, Hempitecture’s PlantPanel received the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry’s RISE® Innovation Award. Being recognized by the nonwovens industry helped raise awareness for Hempitecture. “Winning the RISE Innovation Award put us on the radar of some
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major players in the nonwoven and building material industries,” Mead said. “It validated our work and opened doors for collaboration, funding and visibility in sectors we hadn’t yet tapped. We are excited about the opportunity to collaborate with mainRight: Mattie Mead (center) accepted the RISE® Innovation Award from the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) for PlantPanel™.
Above: PlanetPanel™ X exterior rigid board thermo-acoustic insulation panels.
stream players in the nonwovens and textiles industries to help custom build nonwoven solutions using our technology and capacity.”
A Better Future The Hempitecture team is small, but growing. The company is eyeing an expansion in Tennessee that would be enabled in part by Department of Energy funding. Mead considers material innovation, sustainability leadership and the company’s supply chain as its biggest strengths. “We partner with companies who produce fibers to our specification, which gives us flexibility and resilience,” Mead said. “Our team also brings together architectural knowledge, manufacturing experience and startup experience, which is a rare combination. “Our culture is mission-driven, entrepreneurial, and rooted in the belief that materials can be a force for good,” Mead offered. “We value transparency, sustainability, health and performance, as well as American manufacturing.”
Long-term, Hempitecture envisions a world where natural fibers are a cornerstone of the built environment from walls to packaging and beyond. “We’re building a platform for biobased building materials,” Mead said. Our technology can be extended to new product categories including acoustic panels, molded composites and prefab building systems.” Summing up, Mead said: “The materials we build with matter. They shape our health, our climate and our economy. I believe we have a responsibility, as well as a huge opportunity, to reimagine those materials for a better future.” From an idea born in a college thesis to a growing company reshaping how buildings are made, Hempitecture has proven that natural fibers can compete with — and perhaps surpass — conventional materials. By pairing agricultural innovation with advanced manufacturing, the company is carving out new markets for regenerative crops while delivering healthier, more sustainable products for builders, homeowners, and industries beyond construction. As awareness grows and collaborations expand, Mead sees Hempitecture not just as a manufacturer, but as a catalyst for change — proof that the materials we choose can protect our planet, strengthen communities and inspire a better future. TW
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Alternative or multipurpose PPE may feature a jacket with bi-wing back design for mobility, multiple pockets for tools and radios, and top-quality reflective trim while pants may include long zipper bottoms for easy boot entry, adjustable waist straps and even ample cargo storage.
Rethinking PPE For Fighting Wildfires Firefighter apparel is not a one-product-fits-all scenario — different emergencies may require different gear. By Todd Herring
T
his summer’s wildland fire forecast — above-normal potential from Texas and Oklahoma clear out to the Western slopes — is a reminder to the men and women on the line that their personal protective equipment (PPE) gear must have the flexibility to go from manageable to lifesaving, often in minutes. Modern firefighters are constantly toggling between structure protection, vehicle crashes, medical calls and many other types of emergencies. Yet for decades, gear strategy has typically called for structural turnouts for every call, whether a four-alarm blaze or an overheated transformer. The problem is that turnouts are designed for high-heat fire suppression, not hours of movement in extreme outdoor heat, and that mismatch can take a special toll on the health and performance of wildland firefighters.
doubt that the number of structural fires has taken a steep dive over the last 40 years. 1 Meanwhile, EMS responses have dramatically multiplied — to 421 percent higher than before — and non-fire calls across the board are close to triple the old counts. Wearing flashover-rated turnouts to handle a roadside crash in tripledigit heat, for instance, probably means hauling weight you don’t need, trapping heat you can’t shed and pushing your body toward the kind of overexertion that too often leads to heat stress. The good news is that gear is getting smarter as materials are getting lighter without losing their protective edge. And maybe most importantly, departments are beginning to talk about “right gear for the right call” as a legitimate operational philosophy rather than a luxury.
Shifting To Alternative PPE
Not Just A Nice-To-Have
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) records leave no
Alternative PPE, or gear built specifically for nonstructural fire
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calls, has been around for years, but is still considered “optional” for many departments. The reality, however, is that it’s more like an insurance policy for both the firefighter’s body and the department’s budget. On the health side, the case is straightforward in terms of lighter, more breathable gear that helps regulate core body temperature and reduce fatigue. When you lower the strain on the body, you preserve cognitive performance, decision-making and physical capacity over long shifts. And if that gear is kept separate from structural turnouts, it also reduces the amount of toxic contamination that firefighters carry back to the truck or station, as shown in studies such as one published in the International Journal of Hygiene and Environmental Health.2 On the financial side, alternative PPE keeps turnouts fresher for when they’re truly needed. It’s not unusual for departments to get years of additional service out of their most expensive gear by rotating in multipurpose gear for the high-volume, low-heat calls.
Science Under The Seams The real leap forward has come from materials science. Looking at TECGEN® fiber from Medina, Ohiobased Fire-Dex LLC, for example, it’s easy to assume at first that it’s just another carbon fiber. But it’s not. Rather, the fiber comprises a viscoelastic core that is encased in a high-density carbon shell. This structure provides the thermal protection of carbon fiber without its biggest drawback — brittleness — making it far better suited for fabric blends that need to breathe and move with the body.
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TECGEN first entered the fire service in 2008 as part of rescue gear, and by 2015, it became exclusive to the Fire-Dex brand. TECGEN51 — originally introduced in 2011 by the TECGEN team as TECGEN XTREME — was purpose-built as a single-layer fabric for nonstructural emergencies. Fire-Dex acquired the technology in 2015, and partnered with Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company — a manufacturer recognized for its NFPAcompliant fabrics — who began producing the material under license to ensure a consistent, large-scale supply. Dual-certified to NFPA 1951 — for technical rescue — and NFPA 1977 — for wildland performance — TECGEN51 delivers the abrasion resistance, thermal protection and breathability needed for everything from motor vehicle accidents to wildland-urban interface (WUI) operation, but without the weight and heat load of multiple heavier layers. However, if the design doesn’t match the realities of the job, the best fabric in the world still doesn’t help achieve the goal. For alternative PPE, every detail must be scrutinized through the lens of movement, heat dissipation and hazard coverage, including: • Mobility — Bi-wing backs in jackets let shoulders move freely when climbing, hauling or carrying tools. • Debris Defense — Mandarinstyle collars keep grit and embers out without adding the bulk of a traditional turnout collar. • Ease of Donning — Oversized pant legs with long zipper openings make it easy to quickly pull gear over boots. • Targeted Reinforcement — High-wear zones like knees and cuffs get abrasion-resistant overlays without adding weight across the entire garment. Taken alone, these features don’t create a lot of buzz, but add them up, and they cut fatigue and help firefighters stay sharp when it matters most — and that’s worth getting excited about.
The year 1980 brought more than 10 million calls to fire departments, almost 3 million of them structural fire runs. Flash-forward to 2023, and structural emergencies dipped to just 1.4 million while total calls including EMS, search and rescue and “other” soared to more than 42 million. New challenges demand new strategies for gear as NFPA data shows.
The Wildfire Connection So, what does all this have to do with the looming wildfire season? Everything. Fighting fire in the WUI is a different game than a traditional structure fire. Firefighters are moving constantly, covering distance and working in full sun. The radiant heat from the fire is only part of the equation as the ambient temperature, gear insulation and exertion can all stack up fast. Imagine running a marathon in full winter gear: runners will finish slower, heavier and hotter, of course. And that’s what turnouts can feel like in the WUI, and why alternative PPE is finding the firm middle ground with heat and abrasion protection, plus the comfort to last through the shift. Departments that embrace a “gear match” philosophy by investing in PPE built for the actual risks of wildland firefighting — and a growing litany of
non-fire scenarios — are going to have an edge going forward that will show up in firefighter endurance, incident outcomes, gear longevity and longterm health metrics. Weather patterns, the topography or the fuel load cannot be controlled. But how the people running toward the fire line are equipped can be controlled. And in this new normal, that choice might be the single biggest factor in keeping them safe and ready for whatever comes next. TW References: 1 NFPA Research; Fire Department Calls; accessed 8.12.25. https://www.nfpa.org/education-and-research/ research/nfpa-research/fire-statistical-reports/ fire-department-calls?l=58 2 Air pollution inside fire stations: State-of-the-art and future challenges; January 2024. https://www.science direct.com/science/article/pii/S1438463923001803?via %3Dihub
Editor’s Note: Todd Herring is vice president of Product Innovation and Strategy, Fire-Dex
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NONWOVENS/TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Enka Bio Carrier, made from renewable resources, is a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings.
Enka® Solutions technology has been meeting diverse needs since the late 1960s.
TW Special Report
Freudenberg’s Enka® Solutions:
A Unique Family Of 3D Nonwovens
E
very once in a while, the textile industry throws a curve in a positive kind of way. Maybe walking through the aisles of a show or expo, or maybe thumbing through an industry related magazine, a product or technology genuinely causes an abrupt stop with a desire to investigate further, only to find that it now creates more wonder and curiosity. Thoughts of “what is that,” “what’s it used for,” “how did they actually manufacture it” and maybe even “how can it be used in some application” start pinging around. Freudenberg’s Enka® Solutions technology is one of those unique and versatile product lines that has the ability to create this type of reaction.
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Best described as a 3D nonwoven matrix structure generated from extruded polymeric filaments, Enka Solutions’ technology has been generating conversations and fulfilling various application needs since its development in the late 1960s. “It is a unique product technology with a virtually endless range of possibilities,” offered Audrey Sanders, business manager for Enka America. “The flexibility this technology provides to designers and engineers enables the creation of solutions for use in rather diverse market segments.” Enka Solutions’ products are being produced both as private label products and also to be sold direct to customers. Global manufacturing
locations now include Asheville, N.C., Obernburg, Germany, and Changzhou, China. The list of market segments for this technology currently includes filtration, composites, building and construction, civil engineering, green roofing, and sports and recreation, with more segments and applications in development or under consideration on a daily basis.
Enka’s Path To Present Day The Enka name and brand has a long and storied history globally as well as in the American textile industry. Enka is derived from the initials of the organization’s original founding company, the Netherlands-based firm Nederlandse Kunstzijdefabriek
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(N-K), which translates as Dutch Artificial Silk Factory, which was founded in 1911 in Arnhem. The American Enka Co. was established in Candler, N.C., just outside of Asheville, in 1928, providing N-K a base to expand into the growing American textile industry. It began as a manufacturer of rayon yarn before transitioning into producing nylon 6 in the 1950s. While N-K is no longer in business, the Enka name has carried on. After a succession of different corporate ownerships and name changes, Enka was acquired by Low and Bonar in the mid-2000s. The Germany-based Freudenberg Group then acquired the Low and Bonar assets in 2020 positioning the Enka products as a brand under the Freudenberg Performance Materials (FPM) segment. According to Sanders, who has been with the company for more than 17 years and is happy that they are now part of FPM, “Freudenberg provides us with the stability and direction to invigorate, grow and build upon these technologies along with the freedom to make a deeper dive into our existing product offerings while also exploring new opportunities.”
A Highly Adaptable Technology “It really is a highly engineerable and adaptable technology,” stated Lori Hascher, Enka Technology’s research and development manager. “We have the ability to alter most any parameter or characteristic in the material, including the mesh shape and structure, interaction of the extruded filaments, the polymer composition and physical characteristics as the application may require.” The 3D structures can be produced in thicknesses ranging from 1 millimeter (mm) — 1/32-inch — to more than 50 mm — approximately 2-inches — with void spaces of up to 95 percent. A selection of standard and customized shape profiles are available as the molds used in the 3D matrix manufacturing process are
A variety of Enka® Solutions 3D nonwoven matrix products
created in-house. Polymer options include polyamide, polypropylene and polyester with others always in consideration. “Numerous additives are available to improve parameters through the polymer compounders we work with,” Hascher added. In addition, the manufacturing process allows for the inclusion of “skins” applied to the face, back or both surfaces of the 3D matrix. These skins can be in the form of a nonwoven material, woven or knit fabrics and/or membranes to impart even more characteristics or functionalities towards the application’s requirements.
Diverse And Growing List Of Applications Most 3D textile structures remain somewhat unique to the industry, but in general have gained acceptance in a number of technical and performance driven applications in countless facets of industry (See “3D Textiles: The Difference is Depth”, TW, May/June 2016). “It certainly can be challenging given the variety of applications this technology serves,” suggested Luca Quinones, product manager and inside sales. “One minute we’re speaking with a customer on soil stabilization and the next you might be discussing roof
venting or spacer inclusion applications. It can make for interesting and varied conversations.” There are several examples of Enka 3D matrix products and applications that may not generally be considered traditional textile applications. • Building and Construction: — EnkaSonic is a family of products used as a cushioning layer installed between flooring — such as hardwoods, engineered wood flooring and tiles — and the subfloor of the building, which is usually concrete. EnkaSonic’s formation acts as a cushioning layer for the flooring that also provides a level of sound control. According to Sanders, a new customer is currently using a variation of this product in a layered system being used to deaden the sometimesannoying sounds coming from indoor and outdoor pickleball courts when in use. • Ventilation Systems: — EnkaExFlo is a unique construction designed to fold over the peak or ridge of a roof structure and allowing for proper ventilation along the ridge without letting unwanted moisture from rain or blowing snow to enter the ceiling structure.
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Top: EnkaSpacer is a high-performance flow medium for injection molding. Bottom: EnkaChannel is a resin feeder that can provide high and constant flow rates. It’s available in two widths and is often used when making larger molded parts such as boat hulls and wind turbine blades.
• Water Management: — Variations of the Enka technology can be used to improve water management from within or outside building structures to safely redirect and improve water drainage from roofs or areas subject to pooling • Civil Engineering: — Erosion Control applications make use of Enka Solutions products as a protective layer for soil stabilization on slopes and embankments, waterways and shorelines. It can also be used to protect riverbanks, spillways and drainage areas from erosion caused by waterflow. Given its high level of void space, the 3D
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products can also help to establish vegetation in these applications. — EnkaDrain refers to a multifunctional material construction that provides a proven reliable alternative for earthwork drainage of embankments, dykes and slopes as well as for reinforced walls. Its high shear strength and pressure resistant design can help to minimize construction time and reduce the localized environmental impact. • Green and Blue Roofing Systems — Variations of the 3D matrix, generally with skins applied to one or both sides can be incorporated into green and blue roofing
systems as a carrier for vegetation as well as to facilitate water management and mimic natural hydrology aiding in plant growth, easy harvesting and installation in rather unlikely environments. • Other Applications: Composites Manufacturing: — EnkaFusion and EnkaChannel are two products being used as aids for the manufacturing of molded composite parts using vacuum infusion and resin transfer molding processes. Both products are compatible with most commonly used resin systems. EnkaFusion is employed as a flow media that as the name implies encourages the quick and even spread of resin across the width and breadth of the part being molded resulting in more even and consistent infusion. While EnkaFusion is designed to spread the resin flow, EnkaChannel was created to specifically provide a channel for the resin to flow efficiently and more directly to specific targeted locations. It is available in two widths and generally used in conjunction with larger molded part sizes such as boat hulls and wind turbine blades. Benefiting from the newly found stability as part of the Freudenberg Group, Sanders has been reevaluating the Enka business segments and market opportunities with a view towards the future. “We’ve learned from the building industry that it is really important to be developing and providing the precise tools for each business segment and its associated applications,” she said. “So, we’re working hard to add the right products into our portfolio. We want to be closer to the market and end user to make sure we’re developing the products optimized to meet those needs in North America and globally.” Given the broad diversity of potential applications for this technology and continued interest in those that create more wonder and curiosity, there is sure to be no shortage of viable opportunities for Sanders and her group to pursue. TW
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BulletinBoard New York City-based LILYSILK recently introduced the SILKERRY™ Collection, an activewear line featuring the brand’s proprietary cotton and silk-enhanced terry fabric.
Trivantage®, Burlington, N.C., has expanded its Hydrofend line with the addition of Hydrofend Soft, a fabric cover designed to protect delicate surfaces in marine and outdoor environments. Trivantage is now also offering Infinity Canopy® slide-on wire components for shade canopies. They are a quick and efficient way to build shades in outdoor spaces and allow for quick adjustments.
Herculite Products Inc., Emigsville, Pa., reports it has achieved 1,000 days with zero lost-time incidents.
Switzerland-based SANITIZED AG has entered into an exclusive distribution partnership with Germany-based Rudolf Holding SE & Co. KG, which is now the exclusive global distributor for Sanitized® textile additives.
Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., recently launched a newly redesigned CottonWorks™ website. The fashion-forward platform targets global textile professionals across every stage of the value chain, and was built to support compliance, product development, sourcing and education.
England-based Carrington Textiles has partnered with Germany-based Haartz® GmbH — a division of The Haartz Corp., Acton, Mass. — to bring laminated ProTact by Haartz fabrics to Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Australia and New Zealand. The agreement expands Carrington’s existing military offerings.
The SILKERRY™ Collection from LILYSILK
Cotton Incorporated’s new CottonWorks™ website
Trivantage® has added Hydrofend Soft to its offerings.
Switzerland-based bluesign® recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. The company has supported 25 years of cleaner, safer and more responsible manufacturing practices using its sciencebased, input stream management system to help eliminate harmful substances at the source of textile production. Tokyo-based Teijin Frontier Co. Ltd. has introduced a next-generation stretch fabric comprising an extra-fine 3D structure with randomly sized crimps. According to Teijin Frontier, this lightweight construction offers elasticity, softness and a naturally uneven surface that offers fast drying and moisture wicking performance. Houston-based Orion S.A. has announced plans to discontinue carbon black production at three of its five facilities based in the Americas and EMEA to focus maintenance investments on higherperforming production lines and free cash flow. Mission, New York City, has partnered with intimates brand Everviolet, San Anselmo, Calif., to launch the Cool Essential Collection.
The four-piece, limitededition capsule combines Mission’s cooling technology with Ever-violet’s signature softness to deliver garments offer support, comfort and relief for women. Germany-based Berger Textiles has received a Platinum medal from EcoVadis for its Europebased operations, which recognizes its consistent work to reduce its environmental impact across all areas of its operations. The achievement puts Berger Textiles in the top 1 percent of the more than 130,000 global companies that were assessed. Poland-based Harper Hygienics S.A. has launched Kindii Dermo Cotton wet wipes, made using 100-percent cotton and designed for sensitive baby skin. FUZE Technologies, Salt Lake City, Utah, has partnered with JLA Hospitality (JLA) — a division of JLA Home, Fremont, Calif. — to combine Fuze’s antimicrobial product with JLA’s hospitality textiles and accessories from textiles to bath and room items. TW
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Fiber World Barnet Europe Celebrates 50th Anniversary Germany-based Barnet Europe has reached its 50th anniversary. The company was founded in 1975 as Cherotan Fibers and integrated into the Barnet Group in 1990 before becoming Barnet Europe in 1995. To celebrate the milestone, the Aachen Chamber of Industry and Commerce presented a commemorative certificate to Managing Director Bernd Lenzen. The company recently announced plans to relocate in early 2026 to a new facility in Eschweiler that will unite its Germany- and Belgium-based operations under one roof while supporting growth and sustainability goals. “Fifty years of Barnet Europe is not just a moment to reflect, but a strong foundation for the future,” Lenzen said.“With our new location, we’re creating the ideal conditions to drive our development and growth forward in a consistent and sustainable way.”
REACH, Samsara Eco Partner Deakin University’s Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialization Hub (REACH) has partnered with Samsara Eco, both based in Australia, to accelerate enzymatic recycling solutions for plastics and textiles. Samsara Eco’s AI-designed enzymes break down synthetic fibers such as nylon 6,6 and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) into monomers that can be rebuilt into virgin-quality materials, enabling true circularity. Deakin researchers are studying the impact of dyes, textile finishes, and coatings on fiber breakdown to refine recycling processes. “We are laser-focused on creating true circularity and that means finding a solve for all plastics,” said Paul Riley, founder and CEO
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CiCLO® Expands Into New Categories of Samsara Eco.“Our research collaboration with Deakin will support our efforts to recycle more waste at speed, scale and with precision.”
Eastman, Huafon Partner For Acetate Yarn Production Eastman, Kingsport, Tenn., has entered into a strategic partnership with China-based Huafon Chemical to establish a joint cellulose acetate yarn manufacturing facility in China. The new site will focus on localized production and product innovation of Eastman’s Naia™ cellulose acetate filament yarns, strengthening supply chain responsiveness to regional demand. “China is the world’s largest textile supply chain hub and a frontier for product and technology innovation,” said Ruth Farrell, general manager of Eastman’s Textiles business.“This strategic partnership will provide us with greater capacity and further enhance the innovation and product development capabilities of Naia yarn while enabling Eastman to fulfill its brand promise of making sustainable textiles accessible to all.”
Universal Fibers®, Circular Building Solutions Partner Universal Fibers®, Bristol, Va., has partnered with England-based Circular Building Solutions to advance circular flooring systems. The collaboration combines Universal Fibers’ sustainable carpet yarns, including its Thrive® matter recycled nylon, with Circular Building Solutions’ adhesive-free, reversible fixing systems. These systems allow floor coverings to be securely installed and later lifted for reuse or recycling, supporting material circularity and reducing waste. Ian Spreadborough, co-founder of Circular Building Solutions, said:
CiCLO® technology, the proprietary fiber innovation designed to reduce synthetic microfiber pollution, is expanding into new categories including soft signage, performance apparel, outdoor apparel, hospitality, headwear and nonwoven packaging. With more than 55 brand par tners worldwide and more than 120 million pounds of fibers sold, the company is gaining traction in advancing circular design strategies and offering recycled synthetics that mitigate microplastic impact. “CiCLO technology is driving the industry to take real steps toward reducing the impacts of synthetic microfiber pollution, a major source of microplastics in our ecosystem,” said Andrea Ferris, founder and CEO of Intrinsic Advanced Materials. “These milestones show that progress is possible when material science, design, and business goals align. Our solution is affordable, scaled globally and easy to implement, alongside other solutions to this complex problem like designing fabrics to shed less and improving filtration where feasible.”
“A truly circular flooring solution must consider the total flooring assembly, from the sub-floor to the fixing mechanism to the individual materials within a floor covering such as the backing and yarn. We are proud to collaborate with Universal Fibers to promote how a holistic approach to flooring can deliver meaningful sustainability gains.” TW
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FIBER WORLD
Energy-reduced low-pressure oven (All images courtesy of DITF)
Carbowave:
Energy Efficiency In Carbon Fiber Production
New processing technologies allow for microwave assisted decomposition of carbon fiber composites. TW Special Report
A
new technology uses microwaves and plasma heating to produce carbon fibers in an energy-efficient manner. This means high-strength composite materials can be produced more cheaply and efficiently. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) is part of the Carbowave research consortium, which aims to improve and commercialize microwave and plasma-induced carbonization. The combination of high strength and low weight makes carbon fibers almost indispensable in manufacturing modern lightweight products. Major industries, such as automotive, aerospace, and renewable energy increasingly rely on high-strength carbon fiber composites. Despite their advantages, these materials are complex and energyintensive to produce. Stabilization and carbonization of the fibers, which are often made from petroleumbased polyacrylonitrile (PAN), requi-
res slow process control in high-temperature furnaces. Despite the considerable energy input, a low material yield is achieved due to the long dwell time in the ovens. A new process uses microwave and plasma heating to replace the traditional stabilization and carbonization process with energy-saving technology. With this technology, energy is only induced into the fibers locally, thereby minimizing energy loss. This process shortens the pro-
duction time of carbon fibers, enabling higher production volumes with lower energy consumption. A Europe-based research consortium has joined forces under the name “Carbowave” to optimize and market the process. Its specific research objectives are to develop an optimal coating for PAN fibers that improves microwave adsorption, to develop a plasma heating system for the oxidative stabilization of PAN fibers, and to advance microwave and plasma technology for continuous processes. DITF is responsible for implementing these processes in continuous production and on pilot lines in a plant. As part of the joint project, the central task of DITF is the stabilization of the precursor fibers with plasma technology. This involves combining plasma and low-pressure technology to reduce energy consumption in the stabilization process. In terms of the circular economy, the Carbowave project includes carbon fiber recycling. The new process technologies will allow for the microwave-assisted decomposition of carbon fiber composites (CFRP). The Carbowave research consortium provides a holistic approach that includes the production and recycling of modern lightweight materials. TW
Right: Stabilization furnace for the oxidation of PAN fibers; Far Right: An airlock system of a low-pressure oven.
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FIBER WORLD
ically resistant alternative. Withstanding temperatures up to 982°C and offering smoother yarn handling, basalt is now a compelling substitute for glass or aramid blends5,6. Basalt’s lower flammability and improved chemical durability make it ideal for applications involving heat, corrosion or frequent abrasion.
Metal Yarns: When Strength Demands Edge
Blended fibers can raise protection levels and also increase end-user confidence in multi-hazard protective applications.
Metallic filaments, primarily stainless steel, have long enhanced cutresistant gloves and garments. With a Mohs hardness of 7.5 and a melting point of 3,422°C, tungsten microfilaments deliver extreme slash and puncture resistance in lightweight configurations7. When integrated into knitted HPPE or basalt blends, these metals help garments reach EN 388 Cut Level F and ANSI A7–A9, with minimal ergonomic compromise.
By Eve Lamb
Applications Beyond Gloves
Blended Armor: From Monofiber To Multifiber
A
s workplace risks evolve, with potential injuries from sharp metal edges and abrasive surfaces to thermal hazards, traditional single-fiber protective fabrics often fall short. Enter hybridization: the strategic blending of high-performance fibers like high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), tungsten, steel, glass and basalt. These hybrid constructions are now reshaping personal protection boundaries, delivering multi-hazard resistance while maintaining wearer comfort and mobility.
From Monofiber To Multifiber: A Structural Shift For decades, personal protective equipment (PPE) relied on monofiber solutions: aramids for heat, HPPE for cut or steel for slash protection. Yet each fiber has limitations: HPPE degrades above 80°C1, and steel adds considerable weight. Today, performance demands are shifting toward multi-fiber blends, engineered to meet the stringent requirements of EN 388:2016 and ANSI/ISEA 10520162,3. By combining fiber character-
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istics — tensile strength, rigidity, elasticity and thermal tolerance — engineers are tailoring protection profiles that meet or exceed the most demanding classifications.
HPPE: The Lightweight Backbone HPPE remains the cornerstone of most cut-resistant fabrics because of its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, which is up to 15 times stronger than steel by weight4. It provides core flexibility and breathability while anchoring the structure of hybrid yarns. Blends incorporating HPPE with glass, steel or tungsten leverage shock-absorbing capabilities, allowing stiffer fibers to act as deflection barriers. This synergy delivers superior protection without bulk.
Glass & Basalt: Sharp defense, Thermal Edge Glass fiber contributes high rigidity and puncture resistance, but its brittleness can hinder comfort. Basalt, a naturally derived volcanic fiber, is gaining traction as a heat- and chem-
While gloves remain the most visible application, hybrid protective fabrics are expanding into new fields, including: • Riot control and public order suits —offering slash and puncture protection; • Protective uniforms for correctional and detention facility staff; • Every day, urban security apparel — discreet, slash-resistant garments for private security; • Bite-resistant garments for mental health and special education professionals; • Seclusion wear and protective clothing for high-risk patients; • Cut-resistant workwear for steel, glass and metal fabrication industries; • Abrasion-resistant sleeves and aprons for meat processing, butchery and food production; • Multi-threat garments for recycling and waste management workers handling sharp or abrasive materials; • Protective wear for automotive assembly and maintenance involving sharp components;
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• Slash- and cut-resistant sports apparel such as hockey socks, skating, skiing and fencing base layers; • Motorcycle base layers with integrated cut and impact abrasion protection; • Footwear reinforcements for extreme sports including climbing, trail running, skating and snowboarding; • Protective underlayers for equestrian and contact sports; • Lightweight slash- and stab-resistant garments for civilian use in high-risk areas; • Travel wear and backpacks with integrated cut protection for antitheft protection; • Tactical apparel for military or special operations; and • High-resistance gear for search and rescue or firefighting when paired with heat-resistant fibers. This growth reflects a shift toward wearable, ergonomic protection across industries where safety, movement, and aesthetics must coexist8, but also a sustainable angle, as garments and apparel will have an extended lifespan.
Yarn & Fabric Engineering: Protection By Design The behavior of blended fabrics is influenced not just by fiber selection but also by yarn construction — corespun, wrapped or twisted — knit architecture — flat, warp or 3D — and
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surface treatments. For instance, a glass and HPPE core-spun yarn in a flat-knit structure feels soft and elastic until it meets a blade. The moment stress is applied, the rigid inner fibres engage delivering what is known as “engineered resistance”9. This controlled activation enables garments to remain wearable without compromising safety. The future of protective textiles lies in engineered blends that merge strength, flexibility, thermal control and comfort. By harnessing the complementary properties of HPPE, steel, tungsten, glass, and basalt, fabric developers are no longer forced to choose between durability and wearability, instead achieving both. As industries demand more agile, multithreat protection, blended fiber technologies are poised to become the new standard, raising not just protection levels, but also end-user confidence.
The Circularity Challenge Hybrid fabrics pose significant recycling challenges due to mixed fiber content. A fully circular model is still much needed, and sustainability is becoming a driving force in the research and development of advanced PPE. Ultimately, the goal is to move from a linear model, where protective garments are made, used and discarded, to a circular economy where materials are recovered, repurposed or regenerated with minimal waste. This will likely mean a shift from “forever” blends to
Hybrid protective fabrics are expanding into new applications including backpacks with theft protection, motorcycle base layers and riot control gear.
thoughtful hybridization for technical textiles, balancing safety and sustainability without sacrificing performance. Blended protective fabrics are the future of protection, but without a circular focus, they risk becoming tomorrow’s ecological problem. As the industry embraces innovation in material science and sustainable design, the next generation of PPE should protect the wearer and respect the planet. TW References 1 DSM Protective Materials – HPPE Performance Characteristics 2 EN 388:2016 Standard for Protective Gloves Against Mechanical Risks 3 ANSI/ISEA 105-2016 Cut Resistance Classification 4 High-Performance Fibres: Fundamentals and Applications, Woodhead Publishing 5 BFC Research Group – Basalt Industry Analysis, 2023 6 Mechanical and Thermal Performance of Basalt-FibreReinforced Composites, Elsevier, 2022 7 Refractory Metals Handbook – Properties of Tungsten and Its Alloys 8 EU-OSHA Guidelines on PPE and Worker Comfort 9 Textile Research Journal, 2021 – “Advanced Yarn Structures for Technical Textiles”
Editor’s Note: Eve Lamb is a technical textile consultant with more than a decade of experience in protective fabric innovation, specializing in cut, abrasion, tear and puncture-resistant materials. She has supported strategic product launches and brand content development across PPE, defense, industrial, and sportswear sectors.
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Dyeing,Printing & Finishing Transformers Foundation Launches Water Benchmark For Indigo Dyeing Transformers Foundation, with support from Naveena Denim Ltd. and the Indigo Council, has released “A Reference for Water Consumption During Indigo Dyeing,”the first cross-industry benchmark for water usage in rope and slasher dyeing systems. The study is based on data from seven mills in Pakistan, Türkiye, Italy and China, and highlights how process control and monitoring can reduce water use in post-dye washing and rinsing. The initiative arrives as regulators in the European Union, United Kingdom, and United States push for transparency in sustainability claims. Andrew Olah, Transformers founder, said: “Without transparency and specificity, such figures become marketing jargon: just enough to sound responsible, never enough to be meaningful. Real sustainability requires real data, and this report provides exactly that.” “This report marks a historic first in the denim industry — bringing together mills from across the globe to share verified, third-party data on actual water use,”said Paolo Leidi, Transformers’ Technical director. “Our goal was not to rank mills, but to equip brands, designers, and retailers with meaningful benchmarks, enabling them to assess how seriously a mill is addressing water reduction.”
Tonello Delivers 10,000th Machine To Pacific Jeans Italy-based Tonello recently marked a milestone with the delivery of its 10,000th machine to Bangladesh-based Pacific Jeans, symbolizing more than production — it’s decades of collaboration dating back to the early 1990s. Pacific Jeans’ founder, M. Nasir Uddin, was the first in Asia to adopt Tonello’s G1
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360, helping establish advanced garment technology in Bangladesh. Today, the partnership continues through the next generation of both families, emphasizing innovation, responsibility, and shared values. The 10,000th machine “… reflects decades of collaboration, during which we’ve grown and learned together, always driven by a common curiosity to anticipate trends and embrace new challenges,”said Alice Tonello, R&D and marketing director.
LAIP’s new MINI JET sample dyeing machine can dye up to 20 meters per color.
LAIP Introduces MINI JET Italy-based dyeing machine manufacturer LAIP has introduced the MINI JET. Designed for in-house sampling, Mini Jet enables textile producers to move beyond traditional lab dips that test only a small quantity of fabric by direct dyeing of up to 20 meters per color. This allows real garment prototypes to be created, providing insight into both color accuracy and fabric performance under production conditions. According to LAIP, the machine ensures 100-percent dye repro-
ducibility, with results transferable directly to industrial dyeing machines without recalibration. Mini Jet also offers shorter dyeing cycles, supporting more sample runs per day and faster development cycles. Industry 4.0 ready, it integrates with digital systems for remote monitoring, analytics, and process traceability.
TEXTILCOLOR Acquires Schoeller Technologies TEXTILCOLOR AG, Switzerland, has acquired Schoeller Technologies AG from Switzerland-based Schoeller Textil AG, expanding its international presence and creating new capacity for textile and chemical solutions. Schoeller Technologies, known for licensing and marketing functional and protective textile innovations, will now be integrated into Textilcolor’s new “Brand Management”unit. Existing partnerships and technology marketing will continue under the Textilcolor identity. Hans Kohn, former Schoeller Technologies COO will lead the new Brand Management division. “The acquisition is a consistent milestone in our long-term growth strategy,”said Detlef Fischer, CEO, Textilcolor.“With Schoeller Technologies, we are not only gaining renowned technologies, but also a highly qualified team with unique expertise. We will continue to develop and refine the products manufactured to date in this partnership in order to continue to provide our customers with future-oriented and sustainable technologies.”
Sparxell, Positive Materials Launch Bioinspired Ink England-based color technology company Sparxell has partnered with Positive Materials to launch a plant-based, biodegradable structural color ink for textiles. According to the company, the ink uses engineered
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Dyeing,Printing & Finishing
Sparxell has launched a plant-based textile ink, which is available in matte and shimmer finishes.
cellulose to create vibrant hues without toxic dyes, mined minerals or petroleum-based ingredients. The debut, available in a signature blue with matte and shimmer finishes, allows brands to integrate the technology through standard orders. Dr. Benjamin Droguet, co-founder and CEO of Sparxell, said: “This textile ink launch transforms how brands can access our breakthrough technology. For too long, the textile
industry had no choice other than to accept that vibrant colors meant environmental damage. Sparxell’s bioinspired technology shatters that assumption, delivering exceptional results from plant-based cellulose.” The ink is now available through Positive Materials, with printed cotton jersey products featuring the ink set to enter European markets in September 2025.
Livinguard Introduces Two-In-One Better Fresh Switzerland-based Livinguard Technologies has introduced Better Fresh, a textile treatment that combines odor control with reduced microfiber shedding. The solution can cut fiber fragmentation by up to 80 percent, extending product life and lowering environmental impact.
Archroma Launches Washing-Off Auxiliary Switzerland-based Archroma has “With Cyclanon XC-W e, we are introduced CYCLANON® XC-W e, building on our proven trio-polymer a washing-off auxiliary designed to platform to give mills a way to meet improve color fastness and efficiency rising brand expectations for durable, in cellulosic dyeing under high-elechigh-quality casual wear with trolyte or hard water a lower environconditions. Convenmental footprint tional agents — all at a cost often fail to profile comparable fully remove to conventional unfixed dye, washing-off agents,” said leading to extra Dhirendra Gautam, rinsing, uneven shades vice president, Global and potential quality Marketing and Stratrejections.The product egy, Archroma. enables shorter washing Archroma also The right side of the garment cycles, reducing water, recently introenergy, and chemical use was treated with CYCLANON duced a fully while increasing through- XC-W e, while the left side redesigned webwas treated with other put. Cyclanon XC-W e site, located at soaping agents. is part of Archroma’s archroma.com, SUPER SYSTEMS+ portaimed at improvfolio and meets current MRSL ing the user experience while also and RSL compliance standards. encouraging sustainable choices.
Validated through internal and independent tests, the technology binds permanently to fibers, limiting chemical leaching and microplastic release while fitting into existing production processes. By merging odor control with fiber protection, brands can offset costs by replacing current odor-control finishes. “No solution is perfect — neither is this one,”said Dr. Alok Goel, Research and Development manager at Livinguard Technologies AG.“But this technology provides meaningful impact and it can be implemented today to complement ongoing efforts to mitigate microfiber shedding that are already ongoing. As a society we must act today and stop the bleeding.”
Cupron® Launches Cupron Clear™ Cupron Performance Additives, Richmond,Va., has launched Cupron Clear™, a transparent and stable liquid form of copper designed for microbial control across polymers, liquids and coatings. According to the company, the platform offers a safer and more sustainable alternative to traditional additives like QUATs and isothiazolinones, many of which face regulatory scrutiny. Cupron Clear can be applied in industries including personal care, hygiene, construction, textiles, plastics, paints, adhesives and sealants. Discussions with global partners are underway to bring the product to market. “This new liquid copper platform addresses the frustrations for so many different industries and dramatically expands the applications that can enjoy the benefits of Cupron innovations,”said Cupron CEO Chris Andrews.“It’s the direct result of focused R&D and our belief that economic, safer, sustainable technologies should replace legacy materials that no longer meet regulatory or performance standards.” TW
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DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING Figure 1
Isovaleric acid (IVA)
Acetic acid (HOAc)
Ammonia (NH3)
Nonenal
Understanding and Mastering
Odor Control in Textiles: A Scientific Approach
An effective odor control solution for textile products needs to address the multifaceted sources of odor. By Ryan Scott
H
uman body odor, while often invisible, poses a significant and persistent challenge in the world of textiles. It’s more than just an unpleasant smell; it represents a key consumer pain point that can dramatically impact brand perception and product longevity. As interest in performance textiles and sustainable practices grows, so does the demand for truly effective and lasting odor control. Yet, achieving this goal is far from simple. It requires a deep scientific understanding of human body odor as a multifaceted phenomenon, moving well beyond simplistic assumptions and single-solution approaches. As the textile industry continues to innovate, mastering odor control hinges on embracing the chemistry at play and adopting comprehensive, scientifically rigorous evaluation methods.
A Complex Chemical Symphony Contrary to common belief, human body odor cannot be attributed to a single source or compound. Instead, it is a complex and dynamic mixture of
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volatile organic compounds (VOCs). This intricate chemical symphony is influenced by a confluence of factors, including an individual’s biology, their environment, the specific chemistry of the textile substrate and the activity of skin-resident microbes. The AATCC 2017 White Paper on Odor Evaluation Techniques for Textiles highlighted this complexity, presenting real-world case studies where detailed odor intensity and character profiling consistently revealed that garments carry a broad array of olfactory signatures. Trained sensory assessors in these studies identified a diverse range of descriptors, including animalic, earthy, floral and chemical notes, confirming that body odor originates from multiple families of odorants, not just a single compound. Among the most common and impactful odorants found in textiles are distinct chemical entities, each presenting unique challenges for odor control technologies: • Isovaleric Acid (C5H10O2): This short-chain branched fatty acid is characterized by a pungent, cheesy
odor. It is primarily produced through the microbial metabolism of amino acids, such as leucine. Being moderately hydrophobic, isovaleric acid tends to bind readily to synthetic fibers, making its removal a persistent challenge. • Acetic Acid (CH 3 COOH): A small, polar carboxylic acid, acetic acid is often a byproduct of sweat fermentation. Its sharp, vinegarlike smell is distinct from isovaleric acid. Due to its higher solubility in water and volatility, it behaves differently in textile substrates, requiring different neutralization strategies. • Ammonia (NH 3 ): This basic, highly volatile gas is formed through the degradation of urea, a component of sweat. Known for its sharp, irritating smell, ammonia can rapidly escape fabrics. However, its alkaline nature presents a different set of challenges for odor neutralization technologies compared to acidic compounds. • Nonenal (C9H16O): An unsaturated aldehyde, nonenal is frequently associated with the “cardboard” or “greasy” odor often linked to aging body odor. This molecule is highly lipophilic, meaning it strongly binds to fibers, particularly polyester, and is notoriously difficult to remove, demanding specific and robust strategies for effective neutralization. The critical takeaway here is that each of these molecules represents a distinct chemical class — acid, base, aldehyde — and interacts uniquely within textile matrices. An odor control solution designed to capture or neutralize an acid may not effectively interact with a base like ammonia or a nonpolar aldehyde such as nonenal. Therefore, a truly effective solution must possess a multifaceted mechanism capable of addressing this broad chemical diversity.
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Why Single-Odorant Testing Methods Fall Short Despite the inherent chemical diversity of human body odor, a prevailing practice in the textile industry has been to validate many odor control technologies using only a single odorant, most commonly isovaleric acid. While isovaleric acid serves as a useful benchmark for certain aspects of foot and sweat odor, relying solely on it for performance validation is fundamentally insufficient to represent the full complexity of body malodor. This narrow testing can lead to misleading claims, as products appearing effective against isovaleric acid may utterly fail to address other critical odorants like nonenal or ammonia, which significantly impact perceived freshness, particularly in active wear or among aging populations. Furthermore, the choice of fabric composition plays a critical, yet often underestimated, role in odor performance and can exacerbate the limitations of single-odorant testing. Spandex, or elastane, is a prevalent fiber used in performance apparel due to its stretch and recovery properties. However, its inclusion significantly alters odor behavior. Spandex is known to have a greater affinity for isovaleric acid, nonenal, and acetic acid than common synthetics like polyester or nylon. This affinity allows spandex to delay the release of odorants, which can inadvertently inflate odor reduction results in controlled laboratory settings. Crucially, this retention does not equate to true odor elimination; in reallife wear, trapped odors in spandex may be re-released over time, especially when exposed to body heat and motion. Consequently, testing with spandex-containing fabrics, particularly when combined with isovaleric acidonly evaluation, risks overstating a product’s true performance and masking the technology’s limitations in broader, real-world scenarios. To genuinely understand and enhance textile odor control, the industry must evolve beyond these simplistic test models. A multi-odorant, chemically diverse evaluation
Figure 2
approach is imperative to reflect the true nature of human malodor.
Establishing The Gold Standard: ISO 17299 Recognizing the limitations of single-odorant testing and the complex nature of body odor, the global textile industry has increasingly turned to the ISO 17299 standard as the benchmark for assessing deodorant properties in textiles. This international standard is specifically designed for comprehensive, multi-odorant and chemically diverse evaluation, ensuring a more accurate representation of real-world performance. The ISO 17299 standard is composed of several parts, each addressing specific aspects of odor assessment: • ISO 17299-1: General Principle — This foundational part outlines the overarching methodology and principles for evaluating deodorant properties, emphasizing a holistic approach to address diverse odorants. • ISO 17299-2: Detector Tube Method — This section details the procedure for evaluating deodorant performance using detector tubes, primarily for assessing gaseous odorants such as ammonia and acetic acid. • ISO 17299-3: Gas Chromatography Method — This part speci-
fies the use of gas chromatography for the precise quantification of odor reduction for more complex VOCs like isovaleric acid and nonenal. This instrumental analysis provides objective and repeatable data on a technology’s efficacy against these key odorants. To achieve ISO 17299 certification, textile products must meet minimum reduction rates for each of the four identified key odorants — isovaleric acid, nonenal, acetic acid, and ammonia (See Figure 3). These thresholds were rigorously established based on extensive sensory testing and validated through the instrumental analysis methods outlined in the standard, ensuring that the defined reduction levels correspond to a noticeable and effective improvement in perceived freshness. This rigorous, multi-faceted standard serves as the critical baseline for any credible odor control claim, pushing the industry towards more robust and reliable solutions that truly address the spectrum of human body odor.
Next-Generation Odor Control Technologies The growing understanding of odor complexity, coupled with the rising consumer demand for highperforming and sustainable textiles, has spurred innovation in odor con-
Odor Reduction Requirem ent ISO 17299-3 Isovaleric Acid
ISO 17299-3 Nonenal
ISO 17299-2 Acetic Acid
ISO 17299-2 Ammonia
>85%
>75%
>70%
>70% Figure 3
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long-term odor control in demanding textile applications. Beyond performance, sustainability and safety are increasingly vital considerations. Advanced odor control technologies often feature environmental profiles that are heavy metalfree and non-biocidal, aligning with evolving regulatory landscapes and consumer preferences. Such innovations may also pursue relevant textile certifications like Oeko-Tex ® Eco Passport and Bluesign ® Approval, signaling adherence to high standards for environmental health and safety. The development and patenting of unique odor capture systems underscores the commitment to scientific advancement within this field. Figure 4
trol technologies. Many traditional solutions, particularly those relying on metal-based chemistries or biocides, or those with limited wash durability, have proven inadequate in meeting these evolving demands, especially after repeated home laundering. This landscape has driven the development of advanced solutions that are designed to effectively manage the full spectrum of malodors while aligning with modern safety and environmental standards. A compelling example of this next-generation approach is Freshology™, developed by Microban International Ltd., Huntersville, N.C. This technology represents a natureinspired, heavy-metal-free and nonbiocidal solution specifically engineered to neutralize the broad spectrum of impactful body malodors, including isovaleric acid, acetic acid, ammonia and nonenal.
Unique Mechanism The science behind Freshology centers on its unique mechanism of action, which involves a proprietary blend of polymers and natural components (See Figure 4). This blend is designed to capture and neutralize VOCs through a combination of physical and chemical interactions. The captured odorants are then later
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released and effectively washed away during laundering. This cyclical mechanism is key to the technology’s ability to maintain lasting freshness across repeated uses and launderings, making it a robust option for performance textiles. In terms of application, technologies like Freshology are often designed for seamless integration into existing textile production lines. For instance, it can be applied through standard pad finishing processes without requiring additional steps, and it typically demonstrates compatibility with common fiber types such as polyester, nylon, and various blends, as well as a flexible pH range and curing temperatures. In practice, a technology built on these principles has undergone rigorous testing against all four primary odorants identified in the ISO 17299 standard. Such technologies are observed to consistently meet or exceed the standard’s reduction thresholds across a wide range of fabric types, including synthetics that typically present a challenge for odor management. Furthermore, their performance is designed to exhibit observed durability and retain effectiveness even after numerous home launderings, indicating their potential for providing
Elevating Textile Freshness With Scientific Rigor The complexities of human body odor demand a sophisticated, multiodorant approach to effective odor control in textiles. Single-odorant testing methods are insufficient to capture the full picture, potentially leading to products that underperform in real-world conditions. The ISO 17299 standard serves as a critical global benchmark, offering a comprehensive and scientifically rigorous framework for evaluating a technology’s ability to neutralize the diverse chemical spectrum of body malodor. Innovative, science-backed solutions, such as Freshology, are crucial for brands aiming to deliver on the promise of long-lasting freshness and superior performance. By embracing a deep scientific understanding of odor chemistry and adopting thorough testing methodologies, the textile industry can advance beyond mere masking agents to create textiles that truly neutralize odors across the full spectrum, ensuring they remain fresher longer and meet the increasingly high expectations of today’s discerning consumers. TW Editor’s Note: Ryan Scott is a senior product development chemist at Microban International Ltd., Huntersville, N.C.
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DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING Richard Smith, Atkinson Dyeing’s Operations manager, in the company’s upgraded package winding area,
Atkinson Dyeing Invests In a Sustainable Future
E
ngland-based Atkinson Dyeing, a specialist yarn dyeing facility established in 1978 and acquired by woollen mill AW Hainsworth in 2019, has undergone significant transformation to improve environmental performance and modernize operations. The centerpiece of this transformation is the installation of a state-of-the-art heat recovery system, which captures 60°C wastewater and uses it to preheat incoming cold water to 50°C. This system is designed to reduce the site’s reliance on gas, delivering a major reduction in carbon emissions. At its full potential, the system is projected to lower the facility’s gas bill by 20 percent and electricity by 10 percent. This investment builds on a range of infrastructure and operational improvements made across the Atkinson Dyeing site in Keighley — a town in West Yorkshire close to the Haworth Moorland, which is known as Bronte country, so named for the famed literary Bronte sisters. Atkinson’s winding area has been upgraded to increase efficiency. New 3D were fans installed to reduce dust and improve air quality, a new insulated roof was added, LED lighting was upgraded, and new windows were installed that increase natural light. Reusable cones continue to reduce plastic waste, while new, inhouse-engineered yarn-stripping machines have improved speed and
England-based textile dyeing firm cuts carbon footprint with innovative heat recovery system and facility upgrades. TW Special Report
process control. The site also introduced computer-controlled dyeing machines, which reduce water consumption compared to traditional methods. Water and chemical management has also been a priority. The site utilizes river abstraction rights to reduce its reliance on mains water and ensures that all used water is treated off-site, with no discharge returning to the river. To mitigate environmental risks, bunds have been installed beneath chemical storage areas to contain any potential leaks. There has also been a focus on recycling and reuse efforts, with all cardboard, plastic, and wood being recycled and repurposed where possible. On the technical side, Atkinson Dyeing has implemented an OrgaTEX cloud-based planning system from Germany-based SETEX to enhance production traceability and scheduling across departments. Richard Smith, operations manager at Atkinson Dyeing, commented: “In previous years, we’ve
installed power-saving inverters on our machinery, switched to an electric forklift truck, and converted the oil powered boiler to a more efficient gas burner, which reduced energy usage by 64 percent. “We still have a long way to go, but we’re proud of the progress made at Atkinson Dyeing. From facility upgrades to innovative technology and sustainable practices, we are continuously investing in our long-term vision for growth, environmental responsibility, and workplace well-being.” The facility’s progress is closely monitored using a carbon intensity model that tracks emissions per kilogram of yarn processed. This method allows the team to maintain high levels of transparency and accountability while setting a clear baseline for future reductions. The improvements at Atkinson Dyeing form part of AW Hainsworth’s broader sustainability strategy, which is supported through Planet Mark certification and a formal road map towards reaching Net Zero. With its blend of technology, infrastructure upgrades, and responsible resource management, Atkinson Dyeing is setting a clear course toward greater efficiency and lower emissions. The ongoing improvements not only strengthen its environmental credentials but also reinforce its role as a AW Hainsworth company. TW
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Knitting/Apparel Bella+Canvas Introduce Washed Collection BELLA+CANVAS has introduced the 2025 Washed Collection, a line of garment-dyed essentials made from 100-percent ring-spun cotton. The tees, available in short- and longsleeved styles, feature a vintageinspired look with a soft, broken-in feel. Offered in 28 washed color options, each garment has a unique finish, ensuring individuality. “You thought you knew garment dye, but you haven’t seen it like this,” said the BELLA+CANVAS creative team. “This collection is all about texture, tone, and the timeless appeal of perfectly imperfect dyeing.” The Washed Collection is designed for versatility, catering to screen printers, fashion brands, and consumers seeking comfortable, print-ready apparel. With durability and a nostalgic palette, the collection responds to rising demand for individuality and craftsmanship in everyday wear.
Cone Launches The Cone Collective Greensboro, N.C.-based Cone Denim® has introduced The Cone Collective, a virtual hub designed to showcase collaborations with designers, brands and students. The initiative highlights creative projects using Cone’s fabrics while expanding educational outreach. “The Cone Collective is a true passion project for the Cone Denim team,” said Caitlyn Holt, director of Sustainable Product Innovation and Marketing. “We have watched on social media over the years as people do truly unbelievable things with denim. We hope The Cone Collective is a space where these voices are amplified and everyone can come for inspiration and community.”
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The program also features a brand ambassador initiative, offering select designers the opportunity to work with Cone fabrics and upcycled materials to create products centered on sustainability, innovation and heritage. Creations will be promoted through Cone’s social media channels and website.
DECATHLON, RHEON LABS Collaborate France-based DECATHLON has announced a global partnership with England-based materials technology company RHEON LABS to integrate advanced material science into sports apparel. The collaboration grants Decathlon access to Rheon’s full technology platform, including innovations in strain-rate sensitive polymers that adapt dynamically to movement and impact, enhancing comfort, control and performance. The first product, a KIPRUN running tight, will launch in AW25, with additional developments planned across other categories. “Decathlon’s belief that innovation should serve everyone aligns perfectly with our own,” said Stephen Bates, CEO at Rheon Labs. “Rheon started in elite sport — now, this partnership will unlock that same level of performance for millions more.”
Kontoor Brands Completes Purchase Of Helly Hansen Kontoor Brands Inc., Greensboro, N.C., has completed its acquisition of outdoor and workwear brand Helly Hansen. The move expands Kontoor’s portfolio, diversifies categories and channels, and strengthens its position in outdoor and workwear markets. Helly Hansen is expected to contribute immediately to revenue, earnings, and cash flow.
Softwear Automation Closes Funding Round Atlanta-based Softwear Automation has closed a $20 million Series B1 funding round, led by Denmark-based fashion company BESTSELLER through its Invest FWD platform. Existing investors, including CTW Venture Partners, SRI Capital, and MacDonald Ventures, also participated. The partnership brings BESTSELLER CFO Thomas Børglum Jensen to Softwear Automation’s board. The fresh funding supports the continued commercialization of Softwear Automation’s SEWBOT® automated sewing technology. “This partnership with BESTSELLER and the support from Invest FWD are not just a vote of confidence in our technology — they are a powerful catalyst for the future of on-demand, localized, and more sustainable apparel manufacturing,” said Palaniswamy “Raj” Rajan, chairman and CEO, Softwear Automation. The funding will expand product categories and geographies, scale production capacity, and enhance R&D, aligning with BESTSELLER’s broader goals of supply chain transparency and reduced environmental impact.
“[The purchase] marks an exciting step forward for Kontoor as we expand our portfolio of iconic consumer brands,” said Scott Baxter, president, CEO and chairman of Kontoor Brands. “The acquisition of Helly Hansen will increase our growth profile, drive greater category, channel and geographic diversification, and increase our penetration in the attractive outdoor and workwear markets.” TW
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Interstoff Opts For Advanced Svegea
Colarette Systems Interstoff Group commissions Svegea EC 200 machines for high-speed production of tubular apparel components. By Adrian Wilson
S
vegea — a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association — has delivered no less than six of its EC 200 automatic collarette machines to the Bangladesh-based Interstoff Group over the past 12 months. Interstoff, which belongs to the Pandughar Group, was founded in 2000 as a modest garment factory with just 62 sewing machines. Today its three divisions — Interstoff Apparels, Interstoff Clothing and South East Textile — have a combined workforce of more than 10,000 people, producing around 72 million fully finished and packaged garments each year.
Recognition Interstoff is further equipped with the very latest knitting and dyeing and finishing machinery sourced from Europe and Japan to enable a daily production capacity of 30,000 kilograms of fabrics. Through continuous innovation in yarns and processes, the company’s fabrics consistently earn recognition for their environmental responsibility and quality. Its fabric laboratory is certified by leading brands such as H&M, Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury’s and Tesco. Two Svegea collarette machines have now been commissioned at each of the three Interstoff divisions for the high-speed production of tubular apparel components such as cuffs, collars and neck tapes. Interstoff chose the EC 200 machines over the faster EC 300 model primarily because some of its fabrics include seams. The faster
crush-cutting knife system in Svegea’s EC 300 series can struggle with multiple fabric layers or seams stitched with polyester thread since it cuts by pressure rather than slicing. By contrast, the EC 200 uses scissoraction knives — two sharp circular blades with a slight overlap — which function like scissors and handle seams without issue. The machines run directly from turntables at speeds of up to 40 meters per minute, depending on the fabric width, material properties and optimal settings. They are equipped with Svegea’s standard drive system in an electronic master/slave configuration. Each machine has been specially equipped with a third knife set, enabling the simultaneous cutting of up to three bands. This means that total output in linear meters per minute can be significantly higher when cutting multiple bands in parallel.
Efficiency And Fabric Savings “Advances in automation continue to make the specialized, bespoke machines we engineer more efficient,” said Svegea Managing Director Håkan Steene. “We have enjoyed great success in Bangladesh over the past few years, working with our invaluable regional partner Tech Cell, and have established strong relationships with the leading integrated garment manufacturing operations in the country.” “We have had a strong relationship with Svegea over the years, and these machines are now helping us to significantly increase production
Svegea EC 200 system in situ at Interstoff Apparels.
as well as achieving fabric savings and being able to divert manpower to other areas of production,” added Interstoff Apparels director Shaikh Mohammad Ilias. “Many of the world’s leading fashion brands have chosen to establish operations in Bangladesh, drawn to the country’s efficiencies and highly integrated network of rapidly responding suppliers,” said TMAS Secretary General Therese PremlerAndersson. “Hoping to build on this success, the Bangladesh government has now initiated plans to achieve exports of ready-made garment worth $50 billion by as early as this year — and approaching $100 billion by 2030. Members of TMAS have been very active in the region recently, providing the latest tools for automating textile and garment manufacturing processes — driving both sustainability and competitiveness. TMAS members look forward to meeting up with new and existing customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Singapore this October.” TW Editor’s Note: Adrian Wilson is an England-based analyst and writer specializing in the technical textiles, nonwovens and composites industries. He is the owner of AWOL Media.
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Next-generation materials offer a more sustainable future.
KNITTING/APPAREL
(Image courtesy of Modern Meadow)
Fashioning A Better Future
Next-generation materials are becoming a viable and scalable source for fashion brands that are committed to sustainability. By Dr. David Williamson
F
ashion is, at its core, the business of storytelling. Whether it’s a purse, running shoe or driver’s seat, a true fashion piece is designed to go beyond its function in service of a deeper message. In isolation, Karmuel Young’s four-in-one convertible jumpsuit is just a multifunctional piece for men, one that’s lightweight and soft to the touch. But the jumpsuit’s sustainable material — a high-performance textile comprised of upcycled rubber, plant-derived proteins and biopolymers — along with its brand’s namesake, designer Karmuel Young, transform the jumpsuit into a powerful story-telling device, one that exudes a sense of personal commitment and dedication to building a sustainable future. Such is the power of fashion and the materials we use to mold it. Every material brings with it unique qualities and a history that designers must learn to wield. Sometimes, as is the case for novel materials, it is precisely the absence of a history that
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enables designers to focus our attention on the future and the innovations we’ll need to get there. As the world continues to grapple with global warming, it is not surprising that the fashion industry has increasingly embraced a vision of the future that centers sustainability, in part through the use of next-generation materials.
Next-Generation Materials Come Into Fashion On its own, a piece of clothing is little more than a utilitarian solution to a problem. Sweaters can be built with dense wool to keep the cold at arm’s length. But when we see our values reflected in our clothes or when the jewelry we wear says something about who we are and who we want to be, that’s when simple items transform into fashion pieces. “Fashion doesn’t necessarily mean practical, but it always means emotional,” explained Anna Bakst, board director of the biomaterials company
Modern Meadow and founder of sustainable fashion brand WE-AR4, New York City. Bakst has spent the past 30 years immersed in the fashion industry, helping to mold influential brands like Michael Kors, Kate Spade and now Modern Meadow. Among the many lessons she’s learned, Bakst sees in fashion a universal desire for visual storytelling. “It's not just what you wear and how you wear it, but it’s the story behind what you're wearing and why you’re wearing it,” Bakst reflected. “All of that goes into this form of self-expression. And, increasingly, people are expressing their values around humanity and sustainability.” Traditionally, the fashion industry has not been considered a sustainable one. The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion estimates that 2 to 8 percent of global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions are produced by the textiles and clothing industries while also consuming more than 200 trillion liters of water per year. Per a Grand View Research analysis, amidst growing awareness of global warming and its devastating effects, consumer demand has grown for sustainable fashion. “That’s where next-generation materials come into play,” Bakst noted. Next-generation materials are novel textiles made with biobased or synthetic components whose combination allows for both high material performance and sustainability. Modern Meadow, for example, produces a leather-like material composed of recycled rubber, sourced from used car tires, and a proprietary mixture of plant-based proteins and biopolymers. The combination of protein and recycled rubber affords the company’s primary material, INNOVERA ™ , high-performance qualities and an aesthetic that is remarkably like other natural materials. And a 2023 preliminary life cycle assessment performed at Salve Regina University showed
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For Bellroy’s accessories (above) and Karmuel Young’s four-in-one convertible jumpsuit (right), next-generation materials represent new mediums for self-expression. (Images courtesy of Bellroy and Karmuel Young)
significant reductions in GHG emissions when producing one square meter of INNOVERA — 7 kg carbon dioxide (CO2) — relative to traditional cow hides — 110 kg CO2. With many brands in the apparel industry now committed to reducing GHG emissions across the lifecycle of their products, materials like INNOVERA are likely to play a significant role in fulfilling these commitments. However, creating viable next-generation materials requires more than material performance and reduced GHG emissions: they must also be capable of carrying a designer’s message to the world.
Manufacturing Fashion “Realistically, the fashion industry isn’t going to change its design or manufacturing processes for a material,” Bakst said. That’s because the manufacturing of textiles at scale is far from trivial. “The supply chain in well established brands is sacred. No matter how compelling the next-gen material, if it can’t be implemented with quality at scale, the market will not be able to adopt in meaningful way.” Many next-generation materials have been developed from sources that range from apple skin to mycelium. The message carried by these materials is powerful and conveys a sense of truly sustainable fashion. Yet, few have found success, in part because they require designers to compromise on product quality, something Bakst
emphasizes is a non-starter in the fashion industry. “Designers are absolutely curious and want to try these new materials, however, understandably, they won’t compromise on performance and aesthetics.” Designers need materials that are durable and malleable, capable of being imbued with artistic expression and surviving long enough to let consumers experience it. Too often, sustainability has come at the cost of durability or versatility. Fortunately, advances in next-generation materials may overcome this. Newer leather alternatives, for example, have been shown to be at least as durable, color fast and breathable as natural materials while also providing designers with a broader color palette to choose from. Even when these qualities are met, however, materials often struggle to penetrate the market due to the requirement for bespoke manufacturing capabilities. “That’s one of the mistakes I think some of the innovative material companies have made: They fall in love with the material’s benefits and underestimate just how uncompromising the industry is when it comes to performance and manufacturing feasibility,” Bakst explained. Guidance from Bakst and other in-house experts have led some companies to avoid these common stumbling blocks during material development. The new generation of materials are designed to be drop-in
ready, meaning manufacturers can use the material with existing infrastructure and workflows. Tanners can receive such canvases and transform them into beautiful, natural-feeling products using the same processes that convert tanned hides into polished, luxury leathers. As such, next-generation materials have become a viable and scalable source of fashion, one whose canvas allows designers across industries to convey messages centered on sustainability. Already, companies like the carry brand Bellroy are developing luxury items using next-generation canvases, sending a clear message of their commitment to sustainability. Whether they’re used to build luxury handbags, accessories, durable shoes or comfortable car seats, nextgeneration materials represent a new medium for self-expression; a way to stand defiant in the face of global warming, and to look good while doing it. TW Editor’s Note: Dr. David Williamson is CEO of Nutley, N.J.-based sustainable materials company Modern Meadow.
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A concept idea illustrating what an exhibit gallery could look like at the museum.
Where Denim’s Past
Meets Its Future From curated archives to hands-on training, The Denim Institute & Museum will celebrate denim’s heritage, teach the next generation of makers and champion sustainable innovation. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
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enim has long been more than fabric — it’s a cultural touchstone woven into fashion, music, workwear and identity. Now, denim’s story will have a permanent home in Los Angeles with the launch of The Denim Institute & Museum in 2026, a project dedicated to honoring denim’s past, educating the next generation of makers and shaping a more sustainable future. Co-founders Jonny Saven and Loren Cronk are the duo behind the museum, which was created to preserve denim’s cultural and industrial heritage and will cover more than 150 years of denim history.
advance sustainable initiative including low-impact dyeing, ethical manufacturing and fiber-to-fiber recycling. “The Denim Institute & Museum is the first institution of its kind dedicated to preserving denim’s history,” Cronk said.
Cooperation From Industry Talent, Mills & Brands
For The Love Of Denim: Idea Behind The Museum
Lead Advisor Saven and Operations Lead Cronk have gathered a team of denim industry talent — with experience at brands including Levi Strauss, Ralph Lauren, L’AGENCE, Marc Jacobs, Anthropologie, Benetton, Diesel, Giorgio Armani, DKNY, Calvin Klein, Evisu, Edwin, Gap, Target, Wrangler, Lee — to help them establish this new museum. The founders also envision collaboration with mills and brands to
Cronk is a self-taught clothing designer and when he landed a job at Levi Strauss and was introduced to denim, he fell in love with the fabric. “Designing the style is only part of the process, the life the garment takes on after it’s made is another” Cronk said. “As you work with denim, you know each time it is worn, it alters the look of the fabric. Over time, it takes on new life. It might be the same style of jeans, but
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Three Key Pillars
each person wears them and cares for them differently. They’re constantly evolving, and that’s what fascinates me about denim.” From his introduction to denim at Levi Strauss, Cronk has had a deep and involved journey in the denim industry. He learned to take jeans apart to understand how they were constructed, and watched the sewers in some small San Francisco-based factories to better understand how they managed parts of the construction process he considered the most challenging. He had jobs designing for Ralph Lauren, Rocawear and Marc Ecko, among other brands. In 2010, opened a namesake denim boutique, “Loren” in Brooklyn, N.Y. The denim atelier made custom jeans for customers on site, and also launched a ready-to-wear brand, BLKSMTH, that used White Oak selvedge denim and manufactured jeans in Los Angeles. The boutique’s open sewing space allowed customers to see the designers working, cutting, sewing, making and repairing jeans.
The museum focuses on three key components — preservation, eduction and innovation. Honoring denim’s legacy, educating and empowering the next generation of designers and innovating are important cornerstones of the museum.
The Denim Institute & Museum’s co-founders Loren Cronk (left) and Jonny Saven.
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“From time-to-time, we’d get asked if we offered courses — how to hem, how to repair, how to taper a leg and how to make jeans,” Cronk shared. “We didn’t offer courses, but it’s where the idea first started. The seed was planted, and I knew that in the future I wanted to be part of educating and sharing what I had learned.” From within his small Brooklyn boutique, Cronk hatched the idea for The Denim Institute and Museum over a cutting table surrounding by denim fabric and jeans. Cronk’s next career move took him to Los Angeles where he opened a second Loren boutique. Unfortunately, the store didn’t survive the COVID pandemic, but it was in Los Angeles that Cronk connected with his friend Saven and pitched his idea for the museum. Saven, currently the CEO of L’AGENCE, was on board, and over the past four years, the co-collaborators have refined the idea into an actuality— a denim hub with a shortcourse denim school and learning center focused on a sustainable future. “We realized if we’re going to teach denim, we can’t do so without sharing its history,” Cronk said. “Denim has an untold story, a story that crosses boundaries of social, cultural, financial and many real and artificial limits,” offered Saven. “It’s a universal way of representing fashion, media, pop culture, entertainment and more. It has endless and ongoing dialogue, one that will be told forever and as it continues to evolve.”
Selecting A Location As a city, Los Angeles has a long history with fashion and has proved popular with denim brands in particular. “Although denim is global and universal, it’s the right place to be,” said Saven. “The old brands along with the newer brands and the manufacturing history is rooted in this city.” According to Cronk and Saven, there was an explosion of Y2K denim brands — including Seven for all Mankind, Citizens of Humanity and
The Gerry building in Los Angeles, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, will house The Denim Institute & Museum.
Plans for the museum include galleries, an event space and sewing school.
True Religion among them — that established Los Angeles as a premium jeans city. “We want the museum to be widely accessible, and Los Angeles, known for tourism and laid-back denim fashion style, offers the ideal backdrop to inspire and connect with a global audience,” Cronk said. “Los Angeles is also a cultural hub,” Saven offered. “Music and entertainment share a strong connection to the denim movement and illustrates why this city is idea for the intersection of denim culture and pop culture.” The Gerry Building, in the heart of downtown Los Angeles’ Fashion District, was selected to house the museum. This landmark location
built in 1947 is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and also as Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument No. 708. It’s also conveniently placed between the California Market Center and The New Mart — the epicenter of the apparel industry in Los Angeles.
Curating The Exhibits Denim’s rich legacy will be honored through curated exhibitions, rare archives as well as storytelling, which highlights people, brands and movements behind this iconic fabric. Over the years, the Saven and Cronk have amassed a significant collection of denim that continues to
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The founders are developing ideas for what the space will look like when it opens next year.
expand. To further enhance the museum’s collection, the museum will partner directly with brands interested in collaborating. “Additionally, we’re working with private collectors to secure rare and historically significant pieces as part of our broader curatorial strategy,” Cronk shared. With the exhibits, the museum hopes to tell a story that spans the past, the present and the future. This starts with local and regional production and expands to reflect on denim’s evolution on a global scale. The museum also will house The Blue Room — a public event space that may be used for expert-led seminars, denim flea markets, collaboration launches and brand takeovers, among other ideas. “Visitors can also enjoy denim art shows, photography exhibits, sample sales, custom chainstitch art shows, and rare and collectible denim auctions, creating a unique space where
industry leaders have the opportunity to connect directly with consumers,” Cronk added.
Training Program In addition to the curated exhibits, museum will house a “School of Denim” for immersive and hands on training. Skills including pattern making, sewing and business essentials will be offered to help grow the denim industry’s workforce. The short-courses will provide hands-on training to empower the next generation of denim professionals. With his self-taught skills, Cronk is especially excited about the training aspect of the museum. “A few brands have already reached out about using our space to train their sewers, which has been incredibly encouraging and confirms that we’re heading in the right direction,” he said. The school is open to everyone, and the website with more details
The Institute’s “School of Denim” will offer immersive, hands-on week-long courses to help grow the industry’s workforce.
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will soon be live. Cronk and Saven also are in discussions with potential education partners. “We’re speaking with FIT in New York City about sending students to our program for immersive week-long courses,” Cronk shared. “We’re also exploring an exchange program with the Jean School in Amsterdam to facilitate cross-cultural learning. Additionally, we’re in conversation with the Hong Kong Fashion Institute, and we have a European ambassador actively building relationships with fashion schools abroad.”
Cultural Hub, Education Center As the first of its kind institution dedicated to preserving denim, The Denim Institute & Museum also hopes to play a role in shaping denim’s future. Exhibitions, talks, showcases, and research and development will connect legacy craftsmanship with next-generation innovation. Museum founders also hope to support and drive forward a circular, sustainable future for denim “Through brand activations, showrooms and event programming, we will provide a year-round platform for mills, fiber companies, designers and factories to connect directly with one another and with the public,” Cronk said. “I’m a designer-maker at heart,” he continued. “I love taking an idea and bringing it to life. My passion lies in creating — not only denim, but spaces that inspire and where I can share not only my own experience and knowledge, but also the collective expertise of our entire team.” As the museum readies to open its doors in 2026, its founders envision more than just exhibitions. They see a living, breathing space where denim’s heritage meets innovation, where makers and brands connect with students and consumers, and where a timeless fabric continues to evolve. The Denim Institute & Museum promises not only to preserve denim’s history, but to inspire its next chapter. TW
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KNITTING/APPAREL
New York City-based Dreamwave LLC provides character licensed swimwear for children that meet the criteria for The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation (See sidebar).
UPF In Textiles The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation presents an opportunity for apparel brands to expand within a growing market. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
M
uch like smoking, sunbathing was once a widely embraced pastime — until science made it clear that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays significantly increases the risk of skin cancer. Today, as skin cancer rates continue to rise in the United States, fewer people view a deep tan as a badge of health or beauty. Instead, many are shifting their focus to sun safety, choosing sunscreen and protective apparel over products designed to darken the skin, and prioritizing long-term health over short-term aesthetics.
The Skin Cancer Foundation: Educating, Safeguarding The Skin Cancer Foundation was founded in 1979 with the objective of empowering “people to take a proactive approach to daily sun protection and the early detection and treatment of skin cancer.” Through a variety of programs and resources, the foundation educates the public and the medical community about skin cancer and prevention methods. Its Photobiology Committee also sets minimum criteria needed to achieve The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal
of Recommendation — a stamp of approval that may be earned by products that meet specifications “for safe and effective sun protection against the two types of UV radiation that have been directly linked to skin cancer: UVA and UVB.” In 1981 when the program was created, a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 was needed to achieve the Seal of Recommendation. The program was gradually expanded as different requirements were incorporated for a variety of products including textiles; and in 2005, the committee added standards for ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) covering sun-protective clothing, fabrics and outdoor fabrics used for umbrellas and awnings. The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Photobiology Committee adapts the requirements based on the latest scientific evidence, and this year announced updated requirements for clothing. To earn the Seal today, fabric requires a minimum UPF of 50. Adult hats need a minimum 3-inch brim all the way around, while hats for babies and toddlers need a 2.5inch brim. “After extensive research and discussion, we made the unanimous decision to implement new sun protection standards for products that earn the Seal of Recommendation,” said Dr. Steven Q. Wang, director of Dermatologic Oncology, Hoag Family Cancer Institute, Hoag Memorial Hospital Presbyterian, and chair of The Skin Cancer Foundation Photobiology Committee. “The Committee’s recommendations are always grounded in realworld science. The updated standards we are proposing have been tested over time and have already been adopted by many in the industry. We are committed to staying up to date in our recommendations for the public and are confident that these changes not only will help educate the public, but will guide them to choose products, that, when used consistently and as directed can help prevent skin cancer and save lives.”
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Developing The UPF Testing Requirements In 1998, the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) released Test Method 183 Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation Through Fabrics. This test method, considered the standard methodology for the measurement of UV transmission, has been reaffirmed and revised since its introduction and is the basis used for textile UV labeling. To develop the test method and standards surrounding UV protection, AATCC Committee RA106 UV Protective Textiles Test Methods worked with the ASTM Subcommittee D13.65 UV Protective Fabrics and Clothing. Challenges considered included how to measure the blocking effectiveness of materials and finishes applied to textiles, the data needed to connect an instrument’s data to human exposure, and how to prepare a sample for testing, while also deciding if fabric should adhere to the existing SPF rating system used by sunscreens. It was determined that to avoid confusion, a new rating system was warranted for fabrics and clothing when it came to UV protection claims and hence, the UPF standard was born. The two ASTM committees involved in the discussions also developed two companion standards to the AATCC test method — ASTM D6544 Standard Practice for Preparation of Textiles Prior to Ultraviolet Transmission Testing and D6603 Standard Specification for Labeling of UV-Protective Textiles — which were both published in the mid-2000s.
Not Regulated Or Required Fabric testing is not required by the government in any way but is required for products to earn the Seal of Recommendation. “Today, the Seal of Recommendation requires a minimum UPF of 50 for fabric,” said Dr. Wang. Spectrophotometers are used to measure the amount of UV radiation that penetrates a fabric to deter-
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mine the UPF. Fabrics are also tested both wet and dry to ensure consistent protection in different use cases. “If a fabric comes in multiple colors, we recommend testing the lightest shade to show that the entire range meets the minimum UPF requirement of 50,” Dr. Wang said. “A UPF 50 fabric blocks 98 percent of the sun’s rays and allows two percent — or 1/50th — to reach your skin.” Dr. Wang also offered some additional advice when it comes to creat-
The Seal of Recommendation graphic can be used on apparel hangtags to educate consumers about their purchases.
ing or choosing a fabric with sun protection in mind. “A tightly woven piece of fabric with smaller gaps between the yarns, like denim, offers more protection than a fabric with a looser, more open weave pattern,” he said. “Next, thicker and darker fabrics are more protective than thin, light-colored fabrics. For example, a bleached cotton offers little protection, whereas a black corduroy blocks more UV radiation.” Dr. Wang also
offered that synthetic materials are better for UV protection than natural fibers; and chemical UV absorbers, whiteners or dyes may also improve a fabric’s UPF rating.
Educating Consumers The Skin Cancer Foundation notes that its Seal of Recommendation is one of its most recognizable educational initiatives. In 2025, The Skin Cancer Foundation introduced a new design for the Seal featuring redesigned artwork with descriptive language to better educate consumers. “When a fabric earns the Seal of Recommendation, we provide the brand with the Seal artwork and urge them to display it on the hangtag to help the public make educated and proactive decisions about the products they use to protect their skin,” said Becky Kamowitz, executive director of The Skin Cancer Foundation. “Over the program’s 40-year history, people have come to trust the Seal of Recommendation when they see it on a product because they know it has been medically reviewed by the physicians on our Photobiology Committee who have verified that the product provides safe and effective sun protection when used as directed.” According to Dr. Wang, unlike the window film and sunscreen industries, there is little in the way of standardization or government oversight for testing and rating SPF fabric. “This is one reason why the Seal of Recommendation is so important in this market,” he said. For a product to qualify for the Seal, the Photobiology Committee. comprised of board-certified dermatologists, reviews third-party laboratory testing data that is submitted by manufacturers. “The number of applications we receive for the Seal of Recommendation increases each year,” Kamowitz reported. “The credibility that comes with earning the Seal of Recommendation is increasingly important as we monitor a growing amount of misinformation regarding sun pro-
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Dreamwave: Stylish, Safe & Seal-Certified Dreamwave LLC is a Bentex Group company based in New York City. The company has been a go-to resource for children’s swimwear for more than 20 years. Today, the company offers character licensed apparel — including Disney, Nickelodeon, Marvel and Mattel, among other licenses — and private label swim and loungewear to accounts that include Walmart, Target, Kohl’s and Costco. It works with retail customers to build a sales and design strategy for private label design, sourcing and manufacturing. “We pride ourselves on product quality, product safety and exceeding consumer expectations,” said Joseph Grazi, e-commerce manager, Dreamwave. “Our production is outsourced, however we maintain dedicated overseas offices for quality control and daily oversight, enabling us to stay closely involved in every stage of production.” In addition, all of Dreamwave’s manufacturing partners go through a vigorous third-party screening process. UPF requirements are considered all the way from initial design through to final production. “We at Dreamwave take great pride in offering exceptional
tection circulating on social media,” she continued. “There is a sense of corporate responsibility for many of the companies that apply for review of their products and there is medically backed support for higher sun protection standards in this community. That said, there is always room for improvement. It’s important to continue to educate the apparel industry, and to remind brands that sun-protective fabric isn’t only for swimsuits and outdoor apparel.”
Growth Opportunity Kamowitz also notes that while there is increasing consumer interest in sun-protective clothing and the market continues to grow, finding UPF-rated, sun-protective clothing can be a challenge for the public. “In 2024, the market size for nanotex-
Bluey is one of the characters licensed by Dreamwave for its children’s swimwear.
hand feel and sun-protective fabrics,” Grazi said. “While we continuously refine and enhance our offerings, we consistently maintain a minimum UPF rating of 50+. We have robust testing protocols that our factories adhere to so that we can ensure the fabrics comply with our standards.” As a result of that dedication, Dreamwave products have earned The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation.
For the most part, Dreamwave uses a combination of hangtags, stickers and online product descriptions to educate consumers about the UPF benefits of its products. “I believe Dreamwave having the Seal of Recommendation adds validity to our immense focus on sun protection,” Grazi said. “I hope our customers will recognize and appreciate this certificate and feel confident that their purchase is backed up by more than just a statement.”
tiles — where UPF clothing is grouped — was estimated to be $14.8 billion — up $5 billion from 2019,” Kamowitz disclosed. “And Google search data shows a significant increase in the average number of times people search for the terms ‘sun-protective clothing,’ ‘UV-protective clothing,’ and ‘UPF clothing’ in the past two decades.” Despite this data, availability at retail and online shopping for UPF apparel remains limited. “Less than 50 percent of retailers list UPF-rated clothing on their websites and those that do, offer a limited selection,” Kamowitz said. “Another constraint is that retailers and manufacturers don’t consistently promote that their garments have a UPF rating or are considered sun protective.” Textile manufacturers have an
opportunity to differentiate their products at retail by earning The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation. With awareness of the dangers of UV exposure, the Seal of Recommendation is a critical bridge between scientific rigor and consumer trust. By continually updating standards to reflect the latest research, the foundation not only guides manufacturers in creating truly protective products, but also empowers consumers to make informed choices. With public interest in sun-protective apparel on the rise yet availability still lagging, the opportunity for growth in the textile is clear — and so is the need for continued education, innovation, and transparency to ensure that effective sun protection becomes the norm rather than the exception. TW
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SupplierNotes Furniture Maker Walters Digitizes Operations With Lectra Paris-based Lectra has announced that Walters, a New York City-based 85year-old outdoor furniture manufacturer for architects and designers, has successfully implemented Lectra’s Furniture on Demand and Valia Furniture platforms to streamline production and order fulfillment. By digitizing its entire catalog with Valia Furniture, Walters has reduced lead times, optimized efficiency and improved customer satisfaction. The digital pattern library replaced physical patterns, eliminating manual searches and ensuring up-to-date versions are always accessible. With integration across the cutting room and real-time analytics, Walters gained visibility into production processes, supporting smarter decisions and continuous optimization. “Our experience with Lectra, as a first-time customer, has been very positive: everything from
pre-sale to the installation to the follow-up support has been nothing but outstanding,” said Adam Schindler, CEO of Walters. “We chose Furniture on Demand because it was the most advanced platform yet very intuitive and user-friendly.”
Oerlikon Textile Launches Crimper Repair Service Oerlikon Textile Inc. has launched a crimper repair service at its Charlotte, N.C., site that specializes in Fleissner and Neumag crimpers. Crimping is a critical step in the staple fiber process, and the condition of these components directly affects product quality and production reliability. The Charlotte workshop is staffed with specialists who provide complete overhauls including roller and chamber repairs, as well as inspection of pneumatic, hydraulic and electrical systems. Each crimper is pre-set, tested, and delivered with warranty coverage.
Crimping is a demanding process, and Oerlikon Textile Inc., Charlotte, N.C., now offers a crimper repair service.
ACIMIT Turns 80; Emphasizes Made In Italy At its recent General Assembly, the Milan-based Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) emphasized the need to enhance the value of Made in Italy as a key challenge for its textile machinery sector. In 2024, industry production declined 8 percent to 2.1 billion euros, while exports dropped 9 percent to 1.8 billion euros. China, Turkey, India, and the United States remained the main export markets despite weak demand. ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè said: “U.S. protectionist policies and mounting geopolitical instability risk further slowing global investments in the textile and apparel sector. In particular, any escalation
“With this new service, we can work closely with our customers and guarantee the best service with OEM standards and short response times,” said Daniel Möller-Langmaack, team leader, Service Sales Staple Fiber, Oerlikon Neumag.
Mayer & Cie. Celebrates Anniversary, Expands Braiding Division Germany-based Mayer & Cie. is celebrating its 120th anniversary. The fourth-generation familyowned company exports almost all of its circular knitting and braiding machines. Known for precision and durability, Mayer
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of the trade war would prove even more damaging to the entire supply chain.” Roundtable discussions focused on priorities for the future including internationalization, innovation, sustainability and promoting authentic Made in Italy. The assembly also marked ACIMIT’s 80th anniversary. “An important milestone that invites us to look back with pride and ahead with renewed passion and responsibility,” Salvadé said. It is “… essential to defend and promote true Made in Italy — products designed and manufactured in Italy without compromise, distinguished by the quality and creativity for which we are renowned worldwide.”
& Cie. continues to drive innovation, from electronic pattern control and Relanit technology to today’s digital solutions. “We are truly proud to be celebrating this anniversary,” said Benjamin Mayer, managing partner. “120 years of a family business is far from a given: statistics show that only 12 percent of family-owned companies make it past three generations — and we are already in our fourth. This proves that we’ve consistently understood market demands and met them with technological innovation.” In other company news, Mayer & Cie. recently delivered its first MR-15
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Mayer & Cie.’s growing braiding business unit now offers braiding machines with 48 carriers.
braiding machine with 48 carriers, following the successful delivery of a 48-carrier MR-11 system in late 2024. The milestone highlights the Germanybased company’s growing braiding division, which has evolved into a key business pillar since 2019. “We are pleased that we have now also completed an MR-15 with 48 carriers,” said Patrick Moser, head of the business unit. “This shows that we have fully achieved our goal of strengthening in-house development in the field of braiding machines. We are seeing an increasing number of inquiries for interlinked systems and in-line processes in which further units are to be integrated into the braiding line.”
Eighty Years Of Mahlo Germany-based Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG is celebrating 80 years of innovation, evolving from a small postwar workshop building radio receivers into a global measurement and control technology company. Founded in 1945
by Dr. Heinz Mahlo, the company’s breakthrough came with the 1958 patent for the first automatic weft straightener. Today, Mahlo serves the textile, nonwoven, paper and plastics industries with an international network and export share of 80 percent. “Keeping a company successful in the market over eight decades is only possible with a spirit of innovation, reliability, and the dedication of many smart minds,” said CEO Rainer Mestermann. “I am proud of our team and grateful for the trust of our customers around the world.” Mahlo remains familyowned, guided by a commitment to sustainability, responsibility, and longterm growth.
SDL Atlas’ MMT® Used In Study The SDL Atlas MMT®: Moisture Management Tester was recently used in a study by India-based Woxsen University researchers Rajesh Kumar and Adity Saxena to examine moisture management
in cattail-cotton knit blends. The research showed that these blends demonstrated favorable performance, including faster spreading speed and stronger one-way transport, making them suitable for activewear and functional textiles. The SDL Atlas MMT provided the critical data used to evaluate and compare the dynamic liquid transport properties of the fabric samples the study noted.
Trützschler Spinning Supports Vietnam’s Tra Ly Hung Yen Vietnam-based spinner Tra Ly Hung Yen is tackling labor shortages with support from Trützschler’s automated machinery. Rapid industrialization in Vietnam has made it difficult to recruit skilled operators, threatening mills where consistent quality relies on precise adjustments. Tra Ly has a capacity of 60 tons of carded and combed cotton daily, half of which is exported to China, Pakistan and Bangladesh. To maintain quality, the company turned to Trützschler’s advanced technologies, including the TC 19i card with T-GO, the TD-10 draw frame, the TCO 21XL 12-head comber, and the T-SCAN TS-T5 foreign part separator. Tra Ly also recently installed My Mill, Trützschler’s mill monitoring system. “Innovations from Trützschler offer efficient
handling that frees up time for our employees,” said Tra Ly Director Do Thi Lan Phuong. “In this way, we are able to cope with labor shortages. These machines enable higher productivity, improved sliver evenness and more energy-efficient manufacturing,”
Brückner Opens India Subsidiary BRÜCKNER, Germany, recently established a new subsidiary in India to strengthen its presence in one of the world’s key textile markets. Since 2007, the company has been represented by Universal MEP Projects & Engineering Services Ltd., which played a significant role in building the Brückner brand locally. With growing demand and innovation opportunities in India, the new branch will allow closer collaboration with customers. “We could not have imagined a better partner in the Indian market and are very grateful to Universal for their support and constant guidance over nearly 20 successful years,” said Regina Brückner, owner and CEO, Brückner Group. “India is a key market for the textile industry and offers many opportunities for us, firstly due to the growing local demand for textiles and secondly due to the enormous potential for innovation. The new branch enables us to be even closer to our customers.” TW
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AATCC ColorLab Dedicated To Roland L. Connelly Sr.
Ultrafabrics, New York City, has named Caroline Ollivier senior director of Trade Marketing.
England-based textile manufacturer Think Group named Rachel Douglas Phillips Technical and Sustainability manager. She will lead the development of new products in collaboration with customers as well as guide businesses on sustainability within the nonwoven industry. Standard Textile Co. Inc., Cincinnati, has appointed Frank Kerley vice Kerley president of its Textile Division. He will oversee strategic direction, growth initiatives and operational performance across the Healthcare and Hospitality textile markets.
Based In Philadelphia and working from the Hyosung’s Charlotte, N.C., office he will manage the company’s global sales team promoting Hyosung’s specialty fibers in the healthcare market. Dr. Eric Evans was named the Board of Directors chair for the Advanced Evans Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA), Cambridge, Mass. Atlanta-based brrr° has announced two new appointments. Christopher Heyn transitioned from executive chairman to CEO; and David Ludd has joined the company as vice president of Sales and Marketing.
Germany-based KARL MAYER recently appointed Hagen Lotzmann managing director and president of the Karl Mayer Technical Textiles business unit. In other company news, Axel Wintermeyer was named president of Karl Mayer’s Warp Knitting business.
Catherine Roebuck has joined Englandbased dyeing, printing and finishing Roebuck company Pincroft as Business Development manager. She will focus on supporting the company’s growing military and defense portfolio, as well as expanding its wide commission finishing services.
Scott Blackadar has joined South Korea-based Hyosung as Personal Healthcare Global leader.
Jen Hanna has joined Carbitex, Kennewick, Wash., as vice president of U.S. sales.
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The American Association of Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), Durham, N.C., recently dedicated its newly refurbished ColorLab to Roland L. Connelly Sr. He had a more than 40-year career in the textile industry focused on all aspects of color management and control beginning working at Burlington Industries, X-Rite Inc. and GretagMacbeth, as well as owning several of his own companies. During his career, Connelly was very involved with AATCC. He held leadership roles including president, he was chair of the RA36 Color
Measurement Committee, and a member of AATCC’s board of directors. He was honored with the AATCC Chapin Service Award, played a significant role in the AATCC Foundation, and was instrumental in developing workshops and several AATCC standards. AATCC held a dedication ceremony where Connelly was honored in the presence of some of his family members and close friends. He owned a personal spectrophotometer that was generously donated to the AATCC lab by his wife Lynn.
(left to right): Connelly Sr.’s brother and wife, Wes and Pat Connelly; AATCC President Christina Rapa; and Connelly Sr.’s wife Lynn and son Lee at the dedication.
Paris-based Lectra has promoted Maximilien Abadie to deputy CEO responsible for Lectra’s software as a service (SaaS) activities. Genevabased Better Cotton has announced Nick Weatherill Weatherill as CEO. He will work with outgoing CEO Alan McClay to ensure a smooth leadership transition.
Herculite Products Inc., Emigsville, Pa., has promoted Mike Stephenson to director of Manufacturing. Toronto-based Cobmex Apparel Inc., a provider of high-performance knitwear for the uniform industry, has named Jon Edberg president and COO. He succeeds Founder and President Phil Newman who will assume the role of CEO. Fire-Dex, Medina, Ohio, has named Ben Pfahl chief information officer. TW
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Calendar OCTOBER 7-10: 93rd Textile Institute World Conference (TIWC) 2025, Porto Palácio Congress Hotel and Spa, Porto, Portugal. Visit textileinstitute.org. 13-17:Textile Exchange Conference 2025, Lisbon Conference Center, Lisbon, Portugal. Visit textileexchange.org. 14-15:The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry’s (INDA’s) 2025 RISE® conference, McKimmon Center, NC State University, Raleigh, N.C.Visit riseconf.net. 22: Southern Textile Association (STA) Northern Division Fall Meeting,
4-7: AT Expo 2025 and Emerging Technologies Conference, Indiana Convention Center, Indianapolis. Visit advancedtextilesexpo.com.
Manufacturing Solutions Center (MSC II), Conover, N.C. Visit southerntextile.org. 28-31: ITMA Asia + CITME, Singapore 2025, Singapore Expo, Singapore.Visit itmaasiasingapore.com.
17-20: INDA’s Hygienix™, Omni Orlando at ChampionsGate, Championsgate, Fla.Visit hygienix.org.
29-30: Performance Days Munich, Messe München, Munich, Germany. Visit performancedays.com.
19: STA Southern Division Fall Meeting, Hyatt Regency, Greenville, S.C. Visit southerntextile.org. TW
NOVEMBER 6-7: Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) 2025 Fall Conference, Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C.Visit thesyfa.org.
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Textile World 2025 QUARTERLY ISSUE III
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Procell: Fermented Fiber Created from spent yeast, protein-based fiber Procell offers properties similar to those of wool.
By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor
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The denim is made using a 15-percent Procell/85-percent cotton blend.
s the increase in alternative and sustainable materials for textile applications grows, so does the list of interesting raw material inputs. Initially inspired by squid proteins and with funding from BioMADE, Philadelphiabased climate-positive smart textiles company Tandem Repeat Technologies Inc. has created Procell, a yarn that begins its life as low-cost spent yeast. This protein-based fiber mimics the properties offered by wool, with none of the ethical concerns relating to animal cruelty, water pollution and land degredation. Squid ring teeth is a self-assembling protein complex found in squid tentacles. “We initially extracted the genes from squid and heterologously expressed then in yeast through precision fermentation,” explained Dr. Melik Demirel, co-founder of Tandem Repeat and Huck Endowed Chair Professor of Biomimetic Materials at The Pennsylvania State University. “However, we later found that biomass fermentation of yeast is more straightforward and cost-effective for producing commodity protein fibers.” This protein biomanufacturing approach takes the living yeast cells and transforms them into valuable products — such as textile fibers or nonwovens — using a patented fermentation microbial process. Temperature, pH, nutrient availability and microbial strain selection is carefully controlled to maximize yields, titers and productivity to ensure the process is sustainable and economically viable. According to Tandem Repeat, Procell’s greenhouse gas emission footprint of 5.39 kilograms (kg) of carbon dioxide per kg, water usage of 0.52 cubic meters per kg and land usage of 12.4 points per kg are lower than other natural fibers including cotton, lyocell and wool.
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2025 QUARTERLY ISSUE II
The sweater features a yarn made using 50-percent Procell/ 50-percent wool
Processing Procell Procell fibers are created using traditional wet spinning processes that are used in man-made cellulosic fiber production. From there, the staple fibers are spun into yarns, and Procell may be blended with other fiber types during spinning. “We have combined natural fibers like cotton and wool, as well as synthetics such as polyester to produce several garments,” Dr. Demirel noted. Initial apparel included a cotton blend dress and denim items, followed later by sweaters that can be purchased through the company’s own brand, Sonachic. “Procell can be crafted for various constructions, and we have developed both knitted and woven fabrics,” Dr. Demirel said. Procell has also been used to create nonwoven fabrics. According to Tandem Repeat the fiber is soft and resembles a luxury wool such as cashmere. The 100-percent vegan, sustainable protein fiber is stronger than wool, but offers warmth, lightweight and breathability equal to or better than wool, and offers similar thermal conductivity. The company’s goal is to produce Procell at a cost lower than that of wool. Dr. Demirel sees applications beyond textiles for Procell. “Our goal is to expand into other markets, including the leather, cosmetics, paper and pulp, and construction industries,” he said. “Protein fibers can serve effectively as feedstocks for all these sectors.” Tandem’s research was supported by funding from BioMADE, an Emeryville, Calif.-based Manufacturing Innovation Institute sponsored by the U.S. Department of Defense, and member of the Manufacturing USA® network tasked with creating large-scale, public-private collaboration to advance manufacturing. “With support from BioMADE, we were able to reach a higher level of technological readiness in our industry where deep-tech advances thrive with government backing and venture capital funding remains limited,” Dr. Demirel noted. TW
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