Calico Dress #2
March–September, 2023
Southern Vermont Arts Center
Manchester, Vermont
In conjunction with The Red Dress exhibition
Cover Image by Abby Raeder Illustration by Nancy Hoffmann
Photo Credits Top: Abby Raeder, Dave Barnum; Bottom: Abby Raeder, Alison Crites
Ruth Shafer
Red Dress & Calico Dress #2
Construction of Calico Dress #2
CONNECTIONS ON CALICO
Taking another cue from Macleod’s diligent documentation of the 380 individuals who worked on The Red Dress, every contributor to Calico Dress #2 submitted their personal story as part of the process These testimonies reveal people’s personal motivations for joining the project, the meaning behind each design, and some of the artistic choices made during the planning and making of their contributions. In celebration of SVAC’s accessioning of Calico Dress #2 into our permanent collection, we have compiled these profiles into a catalog to ensure that every contributor’s name and story are preserved alongside the dress itself.
Not surprisingly for a project situated in Vermont and largely worked on by Vermonters, many chose to adorn the dress with imagery relating to nature: landscapes, floral motifs, gardens, weather, water, and more. These designs invite us to consider the feelings of awe and connection that come from tending, nurturing, and honoring the land. Particularly striking are the number of bird motifs on the dress. Birds are enduring symbols of freedom and movement and, for some, evoke memories of particular places and people.
Family histories are another prevalent theme. Many contributions convey ideas about lineage how the skills and traditions of needle arts are passed down, often from grandmothers and mothers, and how stitching continues to bring groups of people together as evidenced by this project. By extension, several embroidered circles on the dress, symbols of wholeness and togetherness, suggest the same.
I am deeply grateful to all the participants for the ingenious ways they used needles and thread to tell their stories. Whether admired individually or considered collectively, their contributions are truly spectacular. I would also like to extend a very special thanks to Kirstie Macleod for her encouragement and openness to letting SVAC’s Calico Dress evolve organically, and to Terry Findeisen for joyfully embracing the project and meticulously dismantling and later reassembling the dress.
Alison Crites, CuratorMay
2024
Photo Credits Top: Abby Raeder; Middle: Barbara Ishikura, Dave B
Terry Findeisen Abby Daley
Alison Crites wearing Calico Dress #2
Michelle Pagan Althea Church
Valerie Hird
PARTICIPANT LIST
Khalid Abdulraheem
Sarah Ashe
Negina Azimi
Daria Babbitt
Diana Bigelow
Miriam Block
Shayna Block
Alicia Lynn Brown
Tracie F. Cain
Janet Cathey
Althea Church
Irene Cole
Julie Crabtree
Abigail Daley
Cathy Edgerly Fales
Bethany Farrell
Heather Ferguson
Terry Findeisen
Janet Fredericks
Judy Fuller
Stacy Gates
Kate Gorman
Cheryl H.
Lina Cloffe Hanson
Kelly Hickey
Lily Hinrichsen
Valerie Hird
Eden Horton
Norma Ippolito
Dina Marcellin Jeansoule
Carole Ann Kelley
Joanie Kemsley
Amber Elizabeth Miller Clark Langford
Kimberly A. Lyford
Anne Manner-McLarty
Marg McNally
Dorie Morgantini
Alethea Morrison
Christina Nicols
Joanne O'Connor
Betsy Olguin
Michele Pagan
Pamela E. Dolson Pellegrini
Gae Sharp Richardson
Jennifer Roberts
Joyce S.
Eve Schaub
Ruth Shafer
Leslie Solook
Rytva Karuna Soni
Frances Tobia
Kathryn Barringer Torres
Marlo Rose Viglas
Janet Walsh
Carolyn Webb
Trish Weill
Susan J. White
Berta Winiker
KHALID ABDULRAHEEM
MANCHESTER CENTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #2, 3, 4
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. The acronym of HERO and the map of Vermont and Nigeria.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I chose this design because it reflects the words I value the most as well as the two most important places in my life. I believe anyone can be a hero by adding the four words from the acronym to their daily life You don’t have to save someone’s life to be a hero. The other design (map of Vermont and Nigeria) reflects the two places I call home.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I tried to keep the color simple. The word HERO has the same color and is oriented vertically to make it stand out from its acronym. The Vermont map is filled in green because of the mountains, and the Nigerian map is filled with green and white, which represent the Nigerian flag
SARAH ASHE
MIDDLEBURY, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I stitched a bit of the border wall and two people walking through the desert.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
We depend on the hard work of Latino farm workers, who risk their lives to get here and work long hours in jobs most of us refuse to do. I am filled with gratitude and respect for these people who risk so much
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I placed these images at the hemline, the bottom of the dress, where so many unseen, working people find themselves. I chose bright colors to stitch the wall and barbed wire it needs to startle us and be seen
NEGINA AZIMI
BRATTLEBORO, VT
Calico Dress Section #2
cribe the design you added to the dress. phy.
this design? How does it reflect an ity and/or culture?
e well known countries in poems, arts, and of my culture and identity. I did Persian
The embroidered word is from the most famous llauddin Muhammad Balkhi. This poem talks Heech" in Farsi, which is a metaphor from the nts reaching an egoless state where you become a "Nothing" that contains "Everything." of your artistic choices, such as color t, materials, etc.
black beads; just simple as it is
DARIA BABBITT, MARG MCNALLY,
CHRISTINA NICOLS, AND JOANNE O'CONNOR MANCHESTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #4
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress.
As a group, we decided on a nature theme. We are members of the "Knit Wits," an informal group of hand crafters that meets weekly at the Manchester Community Library.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
We chose a design from nature that would work for both experienced and novice embroiderers. This panel illustrates just a few of the many natural wonders we might see and feel on a given day
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
We chose a kaleidoscope of colors to symbolize the spirited and everchanging aspects of nature.
DIANA BIGELOW
BRISTOL, VT
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added a fragment of a cholla cactus branch, a shell, a bird vertebra, and a stone with a hole in it.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I love creating art pieces from found objects in nature. Usually I work in three dimensions with a glue gun, so the idea of stitching something was an interesting challenge. I can sew on a button, but I was humbled by the skill and beauty of others' work on a piece of cloth
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I was drawn to the word "Expectations" on the back of the dress, which was stitched with human hair. My creative process is similar, but I used different collected and repurposed natural materials. I thought the letter "O" would make a lovely frame for my four small pieces.
MIRIAM BLOCK STARKSBORO,
VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Red bead with three-dimensional green leaves.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I went through a rough, abusive relationship in my early 20s. When I needed courage to move on, I took a long solitary walk On the walk, I found a marble and kept it to remind myself to stay strong. The embroidery is a symbolic reflection between that time and how far I have grown and blossomed.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose a red bead to symbolize both the love and fear I experienced The leaves turn from shades of brown, to dark green, then light green, to symbolize my own shedding and growth. They are more calm colors.
SHAYNA BLOCK
STARKSBORO, VT / BROOKLYN, NY
Calico Dress Section #9
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. An abstract series of chain stitches and tufted stitches.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Being a young queer person, I feel there is still a lot to figure out about myself and I still am finding out who I am and how I fit in the world, which informed an initial decision to allow myself to be more fluid and organic with my design. But even so, I find fiber arts to be very freeing for me, having grown up learning so much about it. I decided to create a soft and abstract addition to the piece to show the comfort and creativity it brings me
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
In my design, I used a dark variegated red thread and a bold blue thread. I look at these colors as typically being seen as more masculine, which contrasts with the fluid organic shapes and textures I use, showing a bit of how I view myself.
ALICIA LYNN BROWN POULTNEY,
VT
Calico Dress Section #9
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Horticultural designs and a chicken
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Horticulture has become a great passion of mine, right alongside chicken farming. I enjoy working in nature, strengthening my knowledge of the natural wonders of the world.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose the chicken to be the central focus, since I began my love for the outdoors through raising chickens. As a result of that, I branched out to learning all I can about growing plants from seeds, gardening, and living more simply off the land, educating myself on the powers of nature and their abilities to work together to produce beautiful things.
TRACIE F. CAIN
ST. LOUIS, MO
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A small beaker with a flower in white.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a science teacher at an all-girls school and believe that STEM is important for all women. I also believe that being outside in nature is important for all people. I've spent my whole career teaching science to students and teachers, too. I think being scientifically literate is critical in this day and age. Women need to have a voice in the science community
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I did white because I wanted it to look like a beaker and also to be subtle.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Thanks for the opportunity to not just see The Red Dress but to stitch on the Calico one I love interactive exhibits that make us think and reflect!
JANET CATHEY
RANDOLPH, VT
Calico Dress Section #9 & 10
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. With a running stitch, I sewed concentric blue circles, representing raindrops on water. I added a small lily pad and flower.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I usually make art that relates to my love of being on or in the water of a quiet lake.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I thought that a running stitch, in various shades of blue, would emulate the transitory feeling of water ripples.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I worked on the dress during a group embroidery session that reminded me of a quilting bee. I had a limited amount of time and wish I had been able to extend the ripples out and perhaps connect to someone else's design
ALTHEA CHURCH
ARLINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I was inspired by the Willard Asylum Patient Dress, discovered in one of 400 suitcases after the Asylum closed in the 1990s An article about the dress and the institution was published in PieceWork magazine (Fall 2022). More information about the dress is at: https://joncrispinposts.com/2017/03/09/willard-patient-dress-part-1/
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
The unknown embroiderer was an accomplished stitcher, all the while using simple stitches (running, seed, and cross-stitch) to create a detailed and whimsical piece of art. I wonder about her, I think it was a her, but who knows? Did she bring the dress with her? Was she a seamstress? Or did a matron provide materials and teach a few embroidery stitches? It's very sad that we do not (yet?) know the creative soul behind the dress. But her beautiful dress brings to mind the healing power of stitching, embroidery, and needlework throughout our sometimes troubled world.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I wanted the embroidery to be bright with color and reflect some of the stitches used by the embroiderer of the Willard Asylum Patient Dress. I used mostly old and hand-me-down embroidery threads, one and two strands.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
The Red Dress and Calico Dress #2 show us that stitching and its healing power are universal. Thank you to SVAC for this wonderful exhibit and opportunity to stitch and contribute to it
IRENE COLE MANCHESTER CENTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #2
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added two trees with golden flora underneath.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
This is a design that I created to symbolize connection and community
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I wanted the colors to reflect our natural landscape here in Vermont. I placed my design near other natural elements that were already sewn on the dress. Time did not allow for the amount of trees that my sketch reflects.
JULIE CRABTREE
SPRINGFIELD, VT
Calico Dress Section #1 & 2
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A woodland landscape with waterfall, typical of the ones found here in Vermont.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I chose this design as it is so symbolic of the tranquil streams that are all over the mountainous woodlands of Vermont. I started on this before we had the treacherous storms, which transformed these tranquil streams to raging rivers and the devastating flooding many encountered. I love the woodlands and scenic landscapes, which become my inspiration for my stitchery work.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
The use of soluble stabilizers enabled me to create a stitchery piece, which could then be stitched onto the dress and enhanced to blend into the background with various stitches. The color selection was a natural pallet with some hand-spun and dyed yarns for hand stitching and heat manipulated fabric for the basis of the stream. The bodice area seemed to be the perfect location.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
It was an honor to participate in this project
ABBY DALEY DORSET, VT
Calico Dress Section #8
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added a small representation of Southern Vermont Arts Center tucked into the Green Mountains with the last line of Vermont's state song
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I accidentally (and very serendipitously) discovered my love for painting while taking a class at SVAC—a completely unknown and dormant interest that has sparked a creative outlet that I had been searching for and for which I am absolutely grateful.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Most of the people I have befriended since moving to Vermont six years ago are not from Vermont we have all made the choice to live here because of its obvious magnificence The last line of the Vermont state song suggests to me an appreciation of how lucky we are to call the Green Mountains "home."
CATHY EDGERLY FALES WINDHAM,
VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I am a beginner embroiderer. My goal was to add a bit of thread. I imagined adding traces of the early summer wildflowers found in Vermont.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am learning to create a design with thread. Vermont is filled with wildflowers. I wanted to put a touch of them near the hemline. I have only a beginner's mind Embroidery takes practice
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I am learning what happens with each kind of stitch. I chose the light colors of summer and imagined just a handful of wildflowers
It was a treat to spend a morning with Kirstie Macleod, The Red Dress, and our beautiful calico garment. Thank you for creating this opportunity. Is there anything else you'd like to share?
BETHANY FARRELL VERGENNES,
VT
Calico Dress Section #3
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Blue and green flowing waves.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I approached this piece by trying to tie the existing designs together. I used simple stitches and lines. I tried to create movement in the negative space
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I focused on a cooler, calmer palette I felt that the panel needed more weight and design toward the bottom.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Thanks for allowing me to be part of such an incredible project.
HEATHER FERGUSON CAMBRIDGE,
NY
Calico Dress Section #8
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Silhouette of Catharine Owens, Inmate #1537 of the Washington County Poor House, 1898.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Catharine Burroughs Owens is the sister of the man who originally built our ca. 1900 house in Cambridge, NY. After moving in and doing some research, I discovered that I am related to the Burroughs family. Catharine was widowed and found herself facing homelessness In 1898, she was listed as an inmate at the Washington County Poor House in Argyle, NY. She lived there and later at the Hudson River State Psychiatric Hospital. On her Inmate Record, it lists her reason for dependence on assistance as "old age and deaf", reasons that, in modern times, do not seem severe enough for institutionalization. I was also disappointed that her family knowingly let her live in an asylum. Upon her death in 1920, her brother buried her in the family plot. Bringing her back home after she died struck me as her brother's attempt to right a wrong and acknowledge her as a member of the family regardless of her situation. Researching Catharine's story made me realize how some women, even today, are forced into asking for help. We need to ensure that our increasingly elderly, disproportionately female population has dignity and self-sufficiency I am honoring Catherine in my embroidered piece because she deserves to be acknowledged and honored with the other women in this project.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose to represent Catharine as a silhouette because the silhouette was a common mode of portraiture during her lifetime (1830–1920). It gives her the sense of being any woman and every woman. The words that surround her are the sometimes hurtful descriptive words: "old", "poor", "odd", and "ill" that she is labeled They are in brown to distinguish them from the black "formal" descriptions name, age, inmate number, etc. I used simple material to reflect her humble story.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
As I was attaching my work to the dress in the gallery, I was approached by a number of visitors. They were all interested in asking me questions and hearing about the details of my piece. The first woman became quite emotional when she heard that Catherine was deaf. She told me that her father just passed away at age 91 and that he had become deaf in his old age. Another couple asked if they could watch me. They wanted to know more about the artists who were adding to the dress. They asked if I was a full-time artist and when I said I was a bookseller, they said that they knew where I worked and that they hear me on the radio doing book picks. The third couple wanted to take my picture because they said it is so special to be at a museum when an artist is there. I felt the collaboration and connection with everyone who was there. It was a very moving afternoon. I feel honored to have participated in this project.
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TERRY FINDEISEN MANCHESTER VILLAGE, VT
Calico Dress Section #21 & #22
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress.
I have the two back pieces of the bodice, which follow the spine muscles to the shoulder blades. Conceptually, there are breaking waves over the shoulder blades with the seabed below following the spine. I watercolor dyed gossamer weight silk as the ocean. The sea spray is done with silver thread, pale blue silk thread, and embellished with tiny pearlescent beads and sequins The ocean floor coral of aqua, pale green/aqua and pale green/ocher is made with tiny colored sequins and beads I decorated the loops for the back lacing with silk threads gradating from soft gold to a bluey, green, saffron color; like the colors of the sun going into the ocean.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
The design came about through a conversation with Alison Crites. It occurred to me that the shape of the back bodice pieces are powerful, sort of like wings, but the most compelling thing about the shapes is that they follow the musculature of our backs, which along with our front muscles, form our core. Ocean waves became the metaphor for the strength in our backs. The waves also interpret my love of moving water, time spent with my mother and sister on the ocean, and water breaking, the signal of a birth soon to be My identity is not necessarily in water so much as it is in the making I love my hands and how they figure out how to collect all of the synapses bouncing around in my brain and manage to coax them into some physical thing.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I borrowed ocean images from Patagonia publications for inspiration The tricky part was figuring out how to do these compelling images justice, and how to use mostly what I had in my studio to recreate the images on fabric effectively. Therein lies the Mother of Invention. In my studio I had: diaphanous silk; miscellaneous blues, greens, and ocher embroidery thread; my mother’s collection of silk thread, silver thread, and collected beads and sequins from dresses I had bought over the years. I did buy 11 colors of Rit dye and color sealer; I borrowed white embroidery thread from Susan J. White, and Ellen Ogden lent me her saffron silk thread from India. I made little batches of dye and watercolor dyed the silk, and started painting Then I started spattering, which was much more effective in creating motion Then, I started to create the whites of the waves Trying to recreate the kinetic energy of ocean waves via a slower than frozen molasses process of embroidering created an interesting dichotomy.
Erica MichelsenIs there anything else you'd like to share?
"Serendipitous"
The Dress and the Seamstress: How is it that meeting with Alison for one thing would lead to something so profound for me?
The Calico Dress #2 was hanging on the wall of Alison’s office, and I asked about it because it was so handsome and simple. She described the Red Dress Project and what role the Calico Dress #2 in front of me would play in the exhibition at SVAC. Alison was looking for someone to disassemble the dress so the pieces could be distributed to willing participants to work on. She had contacted someone but hadn’t yet received a reply. I offered to disassemble the dress and took it back to my studio that very afternoon.
I sew. However, I am not a professional. The seamstress (Gail Falconer) who made this Calico Dress is, and I found myself so honored to be the one to undo all of her exquisite work. The dress was so perfectly made. I carefully photographed every detail while the dress was still intact, numbered every single piece, and then began to take it apart, again, carefully photographing every step along the way. Two parts on the back had the loops to lace up the dress. Knowing there wasn’t any possibility of my reassembling those pieces to the perfection the seamstress had, I left them intact and decided that I wanted to embellish them.
I cleared off and cleaned my studio floor and laid all the dress pieces on the floor fanned out, front pieces and back pieces. I climbed up a step ladder and began to photograph the assemblage. That’s when Alison arrived at my studio. Even at the very top of the ladder, I wasn’t quite tall enough to get the whole dress. Alison is, though, and so up she went, voila! The Calico Dress was fully captured. Afterward, I carefully folded up the pieces, putting them in a clothing box before sending it off with Alison to take the next steps of finding community members to embroider the different sections. Months later, Alison would return all of the sections to me now with embroidery on them for me to reassemble the dress.
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JANET FREDERICKS
LINCOLN, VT
Calico Dress Section #5
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I chose to appliqué an imaginary bird onto the hem of the dress and then embellish it with more embroidery I imagine the bird blessing and overseeing the many stitchers who are adding their creative images to the panels.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am an observer and lover of birds and insects and other wildlife, which frequently appear in my artwork. Here, my bird represents wilderness and wild imagination inherent in life in the Green Mountains of Vermont.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Not knowing what to expect, I brought a few scraps of fabric with me, including a fanciful bird I had stitched months ago. I decided to stitch her beneath some colorful, compatible circular patterns along the hem. I would love to return to continue stitching her environment, though Meanwhile, she seems to be content with the shapes and colors nearby.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
This was a wonderful experience seeing The Red Dress, hearing the stories, sharing our group enthusiasm and awe at the profound beauty of the project, and then to be privileged to participate in stitching on the Calico Dress #2. I am most grateful.
JUDY FULLER RUTLAND,
VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. My design is of autumnal and evergreen trees in a forest setting.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
My design reflects my beloved home state of Vermont. My Polish heritage is reflected in the vivid colors, as in traditional Polish hand embroidery.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
The trees are a fall representation as found in Vermont, with the Green Mountains in the background and deer in the foreground. DMC floss was used throughout with traditional surface hand embroidery stitches.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
This piece is dedicated to my mother who taught me how to put needle and thread to cloth.
STACY GATES
MANCHESTER CENTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Four circles at the bottom of the section.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I used different stitches that you might use on a sampler, since I am primarily a teacher of needle arts. These are the beginning stitches you would first learn. I am constantly drawn to circles and mandalas as they reflect a wholeness to me and they are meditative in their design.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I love color and therefore used a variety of colors for each concentric circle.
KATE GORMAN
BENNINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #2
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. The image is an Eastern Meadowlark with Jacob's Ladder.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a recent transplant to Vermont, having lived in the Midwest for most of my life. One of the ways I acclimate myself to anywhere new is to draw the things around me I love the beauty of this region and decided to make a piece that would celebrate some of the natural wonder of Vermont while also reflecting my concern for the planet. Both the Eastern Meadowlark and Eastern Jacob's Ladder are native to Vermont but are currently under threat from habitat loss.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
When I received my panel, it had already been embroidered and beaded by Negina Azimi in Brattleboro. I was delighted to work on this panel because it was so beautiful, and I wanted my contribution to rest well alongside hers. The colors I chose were true to the nature of the bird and plant I added the black outline to complement the bead work I worked entirely in DMC floss.
I have been a stitcher for most of my adult life, working mainly as a quilter. I am very comfortable with a needle but had not done much embroidery until this project
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Thank you for this opportunity. It is a wonderful project and I feel lucky to have been part of it
CHERYL H. POULTNEY, VT
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Lace from Paris and beading from India both from antique markets
LINA CLOFFE HANSON
MIDDLETOWN SPRINGS, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I embroidered the symbol Ohm.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
The symbol of Ohm represents the sound of creation the remnant of sound vibration still humming in the universe since the Big Bang. I am a lifelong Yogi and believe this symbol represents so much, as it includes everything and everyone. I also attached a small Indian bell that helps represent sound. Vibration is part of the elements of creation.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I felt a little bold placing it in the front and center even though I am not the best at embroidery, but I think the symbol of Ohm itself could claim that spot. I used orange and gold thread and a little brass bell.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
My kids also added to the Calico Dress. Morgan Hanson (they/them/their), my 16 year old, put on a little golden brass button with three crowns, representing their Swedish heritage. My daughter Leya Hanson (she/her or they/them), 12 years, also added a three-crown button representing Swedish heritage, as well as a little Pan flag representing the LGBTQ community
KELLY HICKEY
WEYBRIDGE, VT
Calico Dress Section #3
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Pink gingham with pale green cross-stitch heart.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
The design I chose is based on a handmade apron I inherited from my great-grandmother and cross-stitch symbolism techniques I was taught from a multi-generational Zapotec family of highly skilled embroiderers while attending an artist residency in Oaxaca, Mexico.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Rather than matching my great-grandmother's pink gingham, I chose slightly bolder versions of the same and then didn't complete the pattern, to offer a sense of blurring the past with the present. I created a heart to symbolize the love I have for all of the women who have guided my path towards the art of handmade. I chose green for the symbolism of renewal or spring, as things die but then they are reborn again in new ways. I chose the front high-hip placement to hint at mothering or womanhood, the place one might have a basket or baby in tow, or a patch pocket on an apron stuffed with tokens of love.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
This was an incredible opportunity and thank you for bringing The Red Dress exhibit to SVAC!
LILY HINRICHSEN
BRISTOL, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. It's a sort of emblem or badge to wear proudly, showing that I can feel both fearful and strong, anxious and compassionate, alone and supported.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
This piece depicts some symbolic images that are integral in my life. House and home are a safe haven for me to retreat, rest, regenerate my body and spirit and be completely me Birds hold a lot of fascination and respect for me...endlessly entertaining, melodic voices, ability to soar through nature and also represent nature herself, where I find much joy among the woods, rivers, lakes, and my gardens. The typed words are from a longer poem of mine, but this particular line depicts a journey of finding my voice finally
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I've repurposed fabric from friends, including a hanky with a bird I chose two quite opposing colors orange and white. White being my shy self, not quite ready to shout to the world that I am here, while the bright orange edges happily frame my voice, drawing attention to what I have to say.
I would love to see the Calico Dress #2 travel up here to Middlebury to the Sheldon Museum or Jackson Gallery, so that my neighbors and friends could work on it. Is there anything else you'd like to share?
VALERIE HIRD BURLINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I chose to add a lace cuff piece belonging to my great grandmother I also embroidered a dodo with pearls.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Women in my family have traditionally saved bits of lace to use on future garments. The Dodo is my personal and hopefully humorous symbol indicating my WASP ethnicity and its status in our world. I often use it as an avatar for myself in my own work
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Blue, a symbol for sadness. Front placement, but not large. I'm not an activist, just a commentator.
EDEN HORTON
MIDDLEBURY, VT
Calico Dress Section #3
I a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. reated a floral representation of a dress.
hy did you choose this design? How does it reflect an spect of your identity and/or culture?
hose this design as it reflects my own personal style of embroidery. represents my view of femininity and its intersection with nature
ell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color election, placement, materials, etc.
hose to make the dress a free-flowing style to display my view of omanhood. I am very passionate about women’s rights and I see my ork as a representation of the fight for equality
NORMA IPPOLITO
CHESTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. This machine embroidered appliqué is a mandala from a collection by Anitagoodesign. Mandalas are symbols that are designed in a circular pattern.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a machine quilter and embroiderer I love quilts that combine piecing and embroidery. My first show quilt won me many awards using this combination. Mandalas create a symmetry that appeals to my sense of order, and the design possibilities are endless! I grew up in New England with its four seasons—its circle of life I chose this design with sweet little tulips as a symbol of spring’s new beginnings.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose a background of creamy white cotton to blend with the dress fabric. The design is embroidered in a satin stitch with high sheen rayon thread in my favorite color palette shades of purple paired with green.
DINA MARCELLIN JEANSOULE
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A handmade crochet with five hearts.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Each heart represents each member of my family. We are connected with love even if we are living far from each other My goal is to spread love anytime.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
The choice of yarn was made before I saw the dress and I like the matching color (there is no such thing as coincidence) The placement around the neck was the right place with the perfect dimension, letting the pendant part fall in the middle of the dress. I sewed my piece with red thread, my favorite color, to represent my passion of handcrafts on its hidden side
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Do all things with love. Follow your heart.
CAROLE ANN KELLEY
BENNINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A counted cross-stitch sampler with cardinals and alphabet.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I like cardinals and enjoy watching them. They remind me of my late husband
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I’ve been a stitcher for many years, including crewel embroidery and counted thread, and I love samplers
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I enjoyed taking part in adding to the Calico Dress #2 in Vermont
JOANIE KEMSLEY
WESTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A small red heart with other colored hearts contained within.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I believe we are all born little skin bags of light and love and sadly we add things as we go through life and before long we have forgotten this! I am a pixie dust spreader, love bomber! And I'm REALLY good at it! Join me! I love you!
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I just wanted a little out-of-the-way place and the train made the most sense as a constant reminder. There were two teenagers working alongside me who were making a rainbow and I incorporated their color idea and included rainbow hearts, only to realize that I needed black and brown as well, to be sure I included everyone
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
This was a very engaging project. Everyone stopped to chat. Two women, in particular, helped me with the little knotted stitches. Although I am a needlepointer, I have not done embroidery since sewing patches on my worn-out blue jeans when I was a teenager in the 60s. I told both Patti Hughes from Peru, VT, and Meridy Capella, a seamstress from Bennington, VT, that I would give them a shout out when completing my questionnaire. Thanks, ladies! And thanks, Alison Crites, for making the process so fun and easy!
AMBER ELIZABETH MILLER CLARK LANGFORD
GREENWICH, NY
Calico Dress Section #5
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. The simplest description for my design is “flowers,” but this is inadequate. There is, after all, also a mountain in it.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
There are two distinct pieces to my design; the first of which is a romanticized version of the view at my childhood home In reality, the base of the mountain where I grew up isn’t covered in a sprawling wildflower meadow. The real area is full of marshland and houses and a few coveted stands of maple trees. It was, however, the backdrop to all the adventures of my youth, and the scenes of my largely idyllic childhood As I’ve shown it here it matches the sentiment with which I remember the place and the time I spent there.
The second piece of my design is comprised of large, stand-alone flowers, which, at least to me, represent my children and the chapters of my life in which they joined me. A buttercup-esque California Poppy, a classic red rose, and an eye-catching pink lily can all be found on the upper portion of my work. Like Marc Brown hiding his children’s initials in the pages of his books, they each mean one of my girls, though only if you know how to read it
While flowers are hardly revolutionary in the field of embroidery, they still feel very personal to me. As a beginner cut-flower grower, I spend a lot of time thinking of flowers, planning when they will bloom, what to pair each variety with, and what the changing seasons will bring into bloom next. Like children, they all have their own specific moment in the garden. When I thought of how best to represent myself for this project, flowers were the obvious choice.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
What I consider to be one of the more “artistic” choices I made on this piece is a small, white caterpillar (I see a caterpillar, my husband does not) below the rest of my design This actually started as a repair over an error that I found as I was finishing up my piece. The idea to correct it with another small design was inspired by the stories of Japanese pottery that is repaired with gold, so that instead of hiding the break, it is made into something new and beautiful. Beyond this, my color choices were all made to best reflect their source material. The green of the Green Mountains, and the correct hue for flower varieties.
There are many stitch styles in this work, which I only learned as I approached this design I consider sewing and stitching to be part of the “culture” that has been passed to me through my family. It was an exciting opportunity to be able to improve upon my skills and pay homage to the people who taught me to use a needle in the first place. Pushing myself to learn more complicated techniques for this piece was one of my major goals in taking it on.
continued...
KIMBERLY A. LYFORD WILDER,
VT
Calico Dress Section #9
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. “2 for Joy” with crows and flowers.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a fiber artist who has twin sons This is part of a nursery rhyme or old wives tale that counts crows, and it was a favorite of my sons. As a young boy, one of my sons would stay outside if he only saw one crow (one for sorrow) until he saw another (two for joy). We are all fascinated by crows to this day.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I knew the black crows would be striking against the white background They are appliqué and made from a jacquard fabric for depth, with braid and beads added for interest. The vine-like text includes flowers similar to nightshade. Both crows and nightshade have dark and light connotations. They are placed just at fingertip height on the skirt and could be touched by the wearer for luck.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
As soon as I saw The Red Dress and the Calico Dress #2, I knew I wanted to be part of the project. I am honored to have contributed to the Calico Dress. Working on my part at SVAC and talking with museum patrons was a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
ANNE MANNER-MCLARTY SAXTONS RIVER, VT
Calico Dress Section #3
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Two interconnected spirals stitched with metallic and neutral-colored threads.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I love spirals and loose concentric circles I have a nearly 30-year-old tattoo with similar shapes. The stitching I added to the dress is two interconnected "spins," representing my husband and me in our move to Vermont.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I usually draw black outlines with jewel-toned infill, but for this dress, the sparkle and variety of the metallic thread called to me. It seemed to go with the formality of the dress and to concentrate on the path taken by the line rather than just an outline to be filled Our move to Vermont is an ongoing journey and the fulfillment of a dream, so the process and the magic of it are more important than the shape it takes.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I appreciate the opportunity to stitch on the Calico Dress #2 and would encourage SVAC to find more opportunities for the public to participate.
DORIE MORGANTINI
MANCHESTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
ew words, describe the design you added to the dress. ed a simple chain design that mirrors the tattoo that Kirstie od has around her neck.
did you choose this design? How does it reflect an ct of your identity and/or culture?
tattoo I immediately thought Calico Dress. I'm very new to e that I often use in could create this design with a
choices, such as color tc.
e dress to be colorful and happy. l lace trim around the bottom. I ror the bottom of The Red Dress.
ALETHEA MORRISON WILLIAMSTOWN,
Calico Dress Section #1
MA
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A wide-open eye with rays of light
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Thirteen months after the Pandemic touched down in my life, 11 months after George Floyd's murder, four months after one of my close friends told me she would die soon, and 15 weeks after the January 6 insurrection, I had a vision of a wide eye with radiating lines. We do extraordinary things in extraordinary times and I had the design tattooed on the palm of my hand as a daily reminder to be aware, be ready, and speak the truth
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I have embroidered this eye in many colors, but on the Calico Dress, I used the colors of my own eyes, which is a first.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Thank you for this exhibit and this community project. I had a memorable day and a profoundly rewarding experience Should Kirstie Macleod ever read this . . . I send my deep regards.
BETSY OLGUIN
WEST HARTFORD, CT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A blue circle with various colored heart flowers branching off on both the inside and outside.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I strongly believe that while we are all unique individuals, we are all interconnected with each other and nature I also believe that our many differences make our world stronger and our lives more interesting and rich. When we respect and celebrate our differences, we have a better chance of making the world a better place for all of us. I also feel that when we make choices from the loving, kind part of ourselves, we have a better chance of making decisions that ultimately benefit all of us and the world we share.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose the blue sparkling floss to represent the earth and its oceans. The circle also represents the interconnectedness of us all The colored flowers represent some of our uniqueness as individuals, such as sexual and gender identities and our different skin tones. And finally, I chose to create the flowers in the shape of hearts to remind myself, and possibly others, to “lead with love,” especially in this everchanging world we are living in
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
It was a wonderful opportunity to contribute to this dress, thank you. It was really special to feel the joy and connectedness to The Red Dress and other women/visitors who came to view it while another participant and I worked on our designs.
MICHELE PAGAN
EAST DORSET, VT
Calico Dress Section #6 & 7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A section from a vintage yo-yo quilt
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a professional textile conservator and Professional Associate member of the American Institute for Conservation I tell people "I preserve History, one piece at a time," and then they understand what I do. Heirloom quilts are a part of the world of 2-dimensional textiles that I conserve for clients. It gives me great pleasure to help people preserve a part of their family's history, when I do this work for them. Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose to add a cotton "yo-yo quilt" section to honor my mother, mother-in-law, grandmother, and all the women who came before us, who did not have the chance to have professional careers, but became masters at "making do" with what they had for resources. "Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without", was a common ethic here in Vermont, especially during the Great Depression. My mother has told the story of, while she was in high school during the 1930s, taking apart a used dress she had obtained and making a blouse for herself out of this same fabric. She taught me everything she knew about the basics of life including sewing my own clothes to survive the next depression. I chose to add yo-yo pieces made of calico to this Calico Dress because it is sympathetic to the dress fabric itself and encapsulates, for me, a very "salt of the earth" type of living. Every home used to have a "rag bag" because you never threw away even a small scrap of fabric. You rarely see anyone wearing calico anymore much less a ragbag in anyone's home so this entire project has such a vintage appeal for me, that I just had to be part of it!
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Thank you for allowing me to be part of this amazing project, which will itself be vintage one day!
PAMELA E. DOLSON PELLEGRINI
NEW CANAAN, CT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. "’Bee" kind’ and a heart for love.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
My signature is a bee, and I always use it to "be" something, always be something good. I felt it aligned with the message of the dress.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose the red, for The Red Dress, and the symbolism of love. I added lavender to the wings as that is part of my own bee.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Turning the corner and seeing the Red Dress was very emotional. To see the work and hear the stories of the women who worked on the dress was very moving. To be able to leave my mark on the Calico Dress was a great joy for me.
GAE SHARP RICHARDSON
MARION, IA
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Approximately 1.5-inch metallic red thread circle.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I stitched a circle—a symbol of wholeness and commitment and never ending. I came to see The Red Dress and the Calico Dress with one of my best friends. According to the dictionary, a circle is a group of people with shared professions, interests, or acquaintances. I love circles and round shapes and balls. If I were to say to someone who knows me, "Can you pick out what I embroidered on the Calico Dress?" and they saw the circle, they would know that I had added it to the dress.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I used the metallic red thread that was in my purse to stitch the circle on the dress because I was stitching a ball with red thread while I traveled from Iowa to Vermont to see The Red Dress. When I was looking at the Calico Dress, I thought that the design that was couched onto the back of the dress was interesting I wanted to give it a little sneak of color but I did not want to distract from the original design. So I put my red circle in the curve of the design that was already there. It felt safe and protected. The Calico Dress series is an extension of The Red Dress. It exists because of it. I felt that using red thread was a way of uniting the two dresses in the room
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I posted a video that a friend took of me stitching the circle on my Facebook page: happenstance on 7th. I did not know that I would be able to stitch on the Calico Dress when I came to the exhibit When I found out that I could add some stitching, I was so excited. Thank you for the opportunity to add to the design. I look forward to seeing how the dress grows in its embroidery and the story that it will tell.
JENNIFER ROBERTS
BRIDPORT, VT
Calico Dress Section #3
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added root vegetables, carrots, beets, and potatoes to the bottom of the panel.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I grew up helping my mom in the vegetable garden on our dairy farm and have continued to garden my whole life. It makes it into all of my art.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose the bottom of the panel because it seemed the best suited for something that is rooted in the earth. I chose colors that are fairly realistic to the vegetables I stitched.
JOYCE S. POULTNEY, VT
C li D S ti #8
a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. terfly in the garden
EVE SCHAUB
PAWLET, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I decided the dress needed her own short story, so I wrote a fivesentence fairy tale.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
As a writer and an artist, the strongest aspect of my personal identity is my affinity for words words are the tools with which I navigate the world.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I wanted the story to feel like a meandering fairy tale that would be both very much a part of the garment as well as a part of material, fashion history, so I embroidered the words unspooling like a ribbon down the front panel
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
The two tiny red flowers on the neckline were begun by my daughter who is graduating from high school this year She had ambitions to cover the entire neckline but, due to the pressures of a graduating senior, was unable make the deadline. Rather than pick these two flowers out, I decided to leave them as a small marker of a motherdaughter collaboration: sometimes life gets in the way of our larger plans, but as a parent I can gratefully accept that this is what is possible in her life today.
RUTH SHAFER BRATTLEBORO,
VT
Calico Dress Section #8
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. My design reads "The Ultimate Power Tool" in blue and orange sports lettering, with a picture of a sewing machine and the date it was invented, 1819.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I create fiber art in a time of industrialization, design saturation, hypernostalgia, and unlimited customization I could easily have designed this patch digitally, had it mass produced, and sold it from my Instagram account. Instead, I engaged in the tedious, imperfect, repetitive task of embroidery, for my own contemplation and contentment, rather than mere production. This piece on the Calico Dress is lighthearted, but it also looks at what technology can and cannot do for individuals, artists, and communities.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
To riff on the evolution of embroidery from a cottage industry to mainstream manufacturing, I chose an athletic font and the intense contrast of blue and orange, common sports team colors. I hope my piece will start conversations between other textile nerds, who understand that textile history is history, is the economy, is cultural identity.
LESLIE SOLOOK BENNINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Mexican embroidery style of bird and leaves done in vibrant colors
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I felt the design and colors were unique and eye-catching.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose to embroider on a piece of unbleached muslin because the neutral color would help the vibrant colors stand out. I chose to use the satin stitch on most of the design, which offered solid blocks of color.
RYTVA KARUNA SONI
PERU, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I have created a piece that speaks to the two sides of my heritage: American (Dutch-English) and Indian (subcontinent).
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am half Indian and half Caucasian I was born in India, then came to this country as an infant. I have always had a sense of not belonging fully to any one identity, which is depicted by the profiles pulling away from each other, yet tied by golden threads. The chakra in the middle is an amalgam of a few different ones, depicting my striving for peace, belonging, and self fulfillment. The Sanskrit word in the lower portion of the design is my middle name, Karuna which means compassion a perspective I try to bring to my life (with varying degrees of success), and which I embraced as a special education teacher, a career from which I recently retired.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
The colors of the two profiles are the colors of the flags of my two countries: orange, green, and white for India and red, white, and blue for America. I chose to create a self-contained design, almost ogee-like, created by the two profiles. The chakra design inside is an amalgam of several different symbols. The 'Om' is on its side my world is rather topsy-turvy lately, and that seemed fitting I included gold thread and beadwork to bring in a feeling of the Indian side of my heritage (my ancestors were, perhaps, goldsmiths at one time).
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I want to thank the Southern Vermont Arts Center for this exhibit and for allowing me to participate in it. The concept of distant collaboration is an exciting and important one in today's divisive world.
FRANCES TOBIA
PERU, VT
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added lace to the hem of the back panel of the dress.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a lingerie designer by trade. I wanted to add a bit of lace to the bottom of the back hem to finish it off with embellishment
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I used vintage lace from Italy that I cut and appliqued to the bottom of the hem. I selected an off-white lace to blend in with the dress fabric.
KATHRYN BARRINGER TORRES
NORTH FERRISBURGH, VT
Calico Dress Section #3
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Swallow in blue.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I was born in a tiny village just outside Cambridge, England. Each summer, the swallows came and nested under the eaves. Swallows migrate each year and seek the warmth of the sun As a small girl, they symbolized freedom and travel to me. As soon as I was able, I left home for adventure, and the bird became part of my identity. Their darting and swooping and joyous playfulness punctuated my life in so many ways, and wherever I live, link me to my origins.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I'm inspired by ceramics and have always loved the multiple blues of Delftware. My grandmother used the willow pattern of Spode, which features two swallows at the pinnacle of the design, and I love the mystical story connected with the design My mother and my grandmother were both embroiderers, and although I didn’t inherit their skills, I always loved handling their fine silk threads. During the pandemic, I turned to embroidery for rest and relaxation.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
Before coming to live in Vermont in 2019, we lived in South Africa for 14 years. As our children and their friends began to travel and study elsewhere, I asked a friend to design a simple image of the bird as a gift and a token reminder to travel and play, but to always remember to return home. When my daughter asked me to have a 'matching' tattoo as a celebration of my 60th birthday, it was obvious what I would choose, and I'm grateful daily that this image reminds me who I am, and my origins.
MARLO ROSE VIGLAS
SANDGATE, VT
Calico Dress Section #1
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. I added a little rainbow.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I chose this design because I think the colors represent humans all of the colors look more beautiful and are brighter together
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I chose the brightest colors to make them pop off of the white fabric
JANET WALSH
MANCHESTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. Snowflakes and beading at the top of the section.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I chose snowflakes to reflect one of my favorite seasons in Vermont, although all are my favorites. My original plan was to embroider all the seasons, but I thought it might be too “busy." Every snowflake, as in real life, is unique in its own way. The beading represents the sky.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I spaced the snowflakes apart with the intention of leaving room for further work, such as smaller flakes or drops of snow utilizing beads
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
This was such a fun project to work on…thanks for allowing me to participate!
CAROLYN WEBB WILLIAMSTOWN,
MA
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. A dragonfly coming out of circles and flying away.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I like dragonflies. Their wings are so delicate and lace-like. They can move in many directions and hover above water or anything. If you are still, they may land on you briefly. To me, they, like anything that flies, seem free to go where they like
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I used cotton Valdoni thread, a copper color for the circles and dark blue/black for the dragonfly.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
It was a great opportunity to stitch on the Calico Dress, and see The Red Dress and all the amazing and beautiful embroideries stitched on it. To see the work of all these women embroiderers from so many countries, combining their art with their hopes and heartfelt feelings gives me hope during this really dark and difficult time in the world. Thank you for this wonderful ray of sunshine
TRISH WEILL
SUNDERLAND, VT
Calico Dress Section #10
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. An embellished honeycomb design with queen and worker bee appliqués.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I have kept bees and find them to be one of the most incredible creatures to exist Their service to the whole of nature is immeasurable, and their peacefulness is infectious. The Queen is made to exist as a tireless creator, and I resonate deeply with that.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Colors: I kept to a mostly warm color palette. I used metallic, iridescent, or darker threads to support the design.
Placement: I wanted the honeycomb pattern to feel as though it might continue under the folds of the dress, so the pattern is oversized and cropped off the panel.
Materials: Primary cotton DMC thread. Accents metallic/iridescent thread Appliqués are stitched onto Madaline® bico microfilament hydroentangled fabric.
SUSAN J. WHITE MANCHESTER CENTER, VT
Calico Dress Section #6
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. EXPECTATIONS spelled out in hair from my collection of cuttings from friends and family.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
Since the pandemic, words have taken center stage in my art, and I have been playing with how meaning is affected by material, process, and context. Expectations is one of the words I’ve been mulling over lately. I often think about my own personal expectations, the expectations of my day, the expectations of my relationships at home and at work, and try to keep them grounded and in check When the Calico Dress opportunity arrived, I wondered how the meaning of this word in particular might expand when placed on a dress. What are one’s expectations of a dress? There can be the hope to find the perfect dress for the occasion, while social pressures from class or gender expectations can influence the kind of dress chosen. Dresses have the power to transform, or we certainly hope they do, for the time they are worn.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
I started spelling out EXPECTATIONS in hair from my collection of cuttings from friends and family that I’ve drawn on for use in various artworks for over 25 years. I considered the personality of the hair as I formed each letter, how to tame or leave free the natural curls, as I stitched down each section with antique cotton thread from my Great Aunt Louise. I thought about how important hairstyle can be for some when wearing a dress. I considered diversity and race in the colors of hair I chose and ways I could continue to expand my collection. But in the end, what I didn’t expect was how the piece began to take on rich possibilities defining interpersonal relationships and expectations between the cast of characters I stitched onto the dress, between old neighbors and friends, between parents, children, and siblings. Their individual identities and stories became literally attached. What began as a reflection on my own expectations surprisingly broadened into considering expectations that might exist for others beyond my touch.
Below are the names of the individuals’ hair I’ve included:
E= Evie Schlomer, when 6 years old
X= Lisa Colemen
P= Adrienne Ranney
E= name withheld
C= Phoebe Banks, sister to Adrienne
T= me
A= Odessa Romer
T= Beth O’Callaghan
I= Carla Castro
O= Joe Johnson, my dad
N= Malena, granddaughter of Gracia Steiner
S= Katie Schlomer, mother of Evie
continued
BERTA WINIKER
BENNINGTON, VT
Calico Dress Section #7
In a few words, describe the design you added to the dress. The word shalom, a dove, and an olive branch.
Why did you choose this design? How does it reflect an aspect of your identity and/or culture?
I am a librarian, so it only seemed natural to embroider a word. I am Jewish, and “Shalom” came to mind a wish for peace, which seemed to echo the thoughts of the folks from around the world who worked on The Red Dress.
Tell us about some of your artistic choices, such as color selection, placement, materials, etc.
Jewish decorative colors are blue and gold. I stretched this somewhat as I eyed the threads in the tin, choosing coffee brown and a bright blue These colors were used in the lettering I also stretched myself by trying two new stitches in the embroidery. My Bobie (grandmother) made me a polished cotton dress for kindergarten in a warm brown and aqua geometric print. It is the strongest memory of the many dresses she made for me She taught me to sew, knit, and do other needlework. My mother, her daughter, died when I was 13. My Bobie and I had a strong bond around fiber and crafting. I gravitated to those thread colors, reaching back to that little girl, my Bobie’s first grandchild.
Is there anything else you'd like to share?
I will count this as one of my most treasured experiences. So thrilled to have been involved
Manchester, VT • SVAC.org • info@svac.org