SSEAMS Magazine issue 004

APPAREL LIFESTYLE MAKERS

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IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 5 EDITORS LETTER Welcome PAGE 9 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Introducing the issue team PAGE 11 SECTION 1 APPAREL MOVES - Meet the emerging brands PAGE 12 KIMONO MY HOUSE PAGE 15 TRAKKE PAGE 19 WORKHOUSE ENGLAND PAGE 23 IRREGULAR SLEEP PATTERN PAGE 26 SACCADE PAGE 27 SSEAMS WORKS - Brand collaborations PAGE 31 PEREGRINE PAGE 36 HAWICO SCOTLAND PAGE 39 6876 PAGE 43 &SONS PAGE 47 INTRODUCING SSEAMS NEWCOMER PATRIAM

Image credits: Front cover - Thank you &Sons & Kiri Surfboards Editor's Welcome - Thank you &Sons This page - Thank you as always Jess from Elliott's ISSUE 004

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Editors letter

WELCOME Welcome to issue 004 and my goodness, it's worth the wait! The talent showcased by our contributors is incredible and it's a privilege to curate and pull this collective of UK makers together under one roof at SSEAMS magazine.

This issue narrows down the narrative for UK apparel lifestyle makers those intent on making their products with passion and a great big dose of the due diligence required for making it the right way.

Additionally, a common theme our team has a particular interest in is our desire for rural activation - escaping the excesses, corporate culture & fast pace living. This new way of 'being' transcends to our daily activities and how we dress accordingly, and why we veer to some brands and not others.

Thank you to all of our contributors for continuing to pour your energy into making things beautiful.

Enjoy the issue!

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IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 51 SECTION 2 - OPEN DOORS PAGE 52 UNCOMMON LIFE STORE PAGE 55 GREEN HOOS PAGE 58 GOOD STORY PAGE 59 SPOILED LIFE STORE PAGE 61 NO.25 SSEAMSWORKS PAGE 63 SECTION 3 - MAKERS STORIES PAGE 65 MEET THE NICOLSONS PAGE 68 BEHIND THE FABRIC / HALLEY STEVENSONS PAGE 70 10 YEARS IN THE MAKING / COURTNEY & CO PAGE 73 SAMUEL BINSTEAD - LET'S TALK ABOUT LINEN PAGE 77 SSEAMS WORKS - WORK IN PROGRESS PAGE 82 WHITEHILL MERCANTILE PAGE 84 VISIBLE MENDING WITH FLORA PAGE 87 SUSAN CASTILLO PHOTOGRAPHY PAGE 88 STUDIO CHAT WITH JESS ELLIOTT DENNISON

Image credit: Sam Binstead

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FEATURES & EDITORIAL TEAM

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EMMA VARSANYI Emma is Features Editor at SSEAMS Magazine whilst leading SSEAMS day-to-day operations and select apparel strategy consulting projects for private clients.

RUTH KELLY Ruth heads up Material & Insights at SSEAMS. She is a leading industry expert in the field of material innovation & development.

ANDREW DUDGEON Award winning Illustrator and Creative Director at SSEAMS. Andrew helps steer the SSEAMS ship in the right direction.

HEATHER SUTTIE Heather is our go-to PR and delivers media coverage and guidance on how best to gain exposure for yourself and your brand.

ASHLEY FORSYTH Ashley is a Photography student at Forth Valley College working on assignments for SSEAMS.

CAMPBELL CASTELL Campbell is our Tech-head. He successfully designed and developed SSEAMSWORKS.CO this year and continues to support our digital asset development.

JOHN BARBOUR John Barbour is a freelance photographer, specialising in commercial, fashion and lifestyle photography. John recently shot our SSEAMS x Seahawk photoshoot.

RICH HALL Rich is an incredibly experienced Freelance Graphic Designer in the apparel industry, based in Sheffield. He has been producing graphics for SSEAMS Magazine since 2022.

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SSEAMS magazine shines a spotlight on UK progressive apparel and lifestyle brands, makers and mills that are reshaping our future. Our studio is based in Stirlingshire, Scotland.

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IN THIS ISSUE PAGE 91 THE KINDRED FOLK PAGE 93 SECTION 3 - HELLO SUFFOLK PAGE 94 JULIE COCKBURN PAGE 98 PUMP STREET BAKERY PAGE 100 ISSUE DIRECTORY & THANK YOU TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS FOR THIS ISSUE

SSEAMS magazine shines a spotlight on the progressive apparel and lifestyle brands, makers and mills that are reshaping our future.

Thank you to our Feature Editors, Photographers and Graphic designers for supporting this issue without you, we would simply have empty pages.

SSEAMS Magazine Independently published in Scotland 9 Banker's Brae Balfron Stirlingshire G63 0PY Press team via press@sseams.co Our community approach means emerging & progressive partner contributors will share each issue with their audiences as we build up our readership.

Thank you to our readers for supporting us.

Image credit: Too Gallus

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APPAREL MOVES SSEAMS is just a name, but what it represents is a collective with appreciation for functional and purposeful apparel.

In this issue of SSEAMS magazine we are celebrating all of the passionate and hard working emerging apparel brands that we have the privilege to meet and collaborate with.

They bring innovative ideas and they pursue making them a reality with tenacity and vision.

They are aware of their impact on the planet and it informs everything they do. They are working hard, supporting each other and learning every day.

SSEAMS magazine believes that it is these inspiring brands and individuals that make the apparel industry a better place. We talked to a select few…

Featuring Harrison for SSEAMS / Photographed

by John Barbour for SSEAMSWORKS

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KIMONO MY HOUSE Interview with Founder Olivia May

Image credit: Tara Birch Studio

Kimono My House launched on the 4th of June 2021 with a small collection of 100% organic cotton unisex workwear kimonos. The brand was started by Olivia May when she moved back to Devon in the madness of 2020 after an 11 year stint working in luxury fashion in London. After gathering years of experience as a production manager at fashion brands Christopher Raeburn and Toogood, she found herself putting it all to use when developing the Kimono My House collection.

The collection consists of three styles which are designed for The Garden, The House and The Studio.

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The first style to be developed was The Garden Kimono. Olivia, like many others, found herself gardening a lot in the summer lockdown and she noticed that although she had a number of “workwear” style jackets, none of them were actually that practical. This time it coincided with her buying a vintage Japanese Hanten Jacket – a workwear style kimono that builders wore on site in the 1950s. Combining the shape and fit of the Hanten and introducing practical pockets and details she now has three beautiful and well thought out designs.

The Garden Kimono is made in heavy fabric and has four large front pockets. On one side, the PAGE L12

Image credit: Tara Birch Studio

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"I have designed these kimonos to be worn, looked after, handed-down and loved, whether you’re wearing yours in the garden, studio or house. I want people to be considerate when purchasing clothes so I stick to the mantra – Choose Well, Buy Less."

OLIVIA MAY

Image credit: Tara Birch Studio

pockets have tool loops along the top to hold secateurs, trowels and forks. There is an internal pocket for your phone and a removable magnet patch on the chest. This ingenious detail is to hold tools for quick access or smaller items like nails and screws. It is something you didn’t think you needed on a jacket but The Garden Kimono proves that you do.

The Studio Kimono is made in a mid weight fabric and has a slightly slimmer shape with slimmer sleeves. It has 3 large pockets and a removable pull-up pen and pencil pocket on the left side, a clever design for the things that often get lost. Like The Garden Kimono, The Studio Kimono also has the internal phone pocket and the magnet patch, perfect for pins, needles and snips. This style was designed for creatives, makers and studio dwellers.

The House Kimono is made in light weight fabrics and is designed with more of a traditional kimono in mind.

It is long and voluminous, with wide sleeves and it can be worn open or wrapped closed. The House Kimono has a back waist cord channel which has small holes on each side seam. This means that it can be cinched in at the waist for a more feminine look and you can wrap from either the left side or right side, depending on your preference. House Kimono has 2 large pockets and an internal phone pocket.

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A lot of thought has gone into the design of each kimono and they took a full year to develop before launching with a small production run made in Portugal in Organic Cotton. The new collection that launched in 2023 are made in London and from dead stock sourced fabrics. Olivia trawls fabric warehouses for hours to find leftover rolls of corduroy, cottons, canvases and anything else she thinks would be perfect for a kimono. This way of working is time consuming but is so rewarding to give something that is already on this planet a second chance to be made into something beautiful. The factory the kimonos are made at in London are dear to Olivia’s heart. They are a family run, small unit who’s quality are the best she has found in the UK. She says ‘It feels so good to be making in the UK from fabric that is sourced 20 minutes from the factory, no air miles, less stress and supporting other home grown small businesses – it feels like a collaborative effort and makes running my business a joy’.

As highlighted above, sustainability has a strong part to play in the Kimono My House ethos. The kimonos are all sustainably sourced fabrics and are 100% recyclable. They all come with a beautiful Sashiko repair kit to ensure that you can repair and look after your kimono, making it last a lifetime. kimonomyhouse.co.uk

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Design is a journey, not a destination.

In conversation with Trakke Founder, Alec Farmer...

Image credit: Too Gallus

Waxed Canvas has been around for centuries, but it’s as relevant now as it has ever been.

As consumers continue to focus on slow fashion, longevity and sustainability, Waxed Canvas is becoming an increasingly popular choice for luggage as well as clothing.

Unlike synthetic fabrics, waxed canvas can be reproofed time and time again. Anyone who has seen an old Barbour jacket will know that this stuff stays functional for decades. It’s a natural fibre. It’s strong. It’s durable - and It wears in, not out. So the longer you use it, the more character it develops. A well used waxed canvas backpack tells the story of its journey in the marks and creases that it bears.

We have been working almost exclusively with Scottish Made waxed canvas for over a decade now. We’ve crafted tens of thousands of backpacks, messenger bags, pouches and accessories, right here in our workshop in Glasgow.

And every bag we make is guaranteed for life. It’s part of our commitment to making things that last and it’s also a commitment to our customers - a promise that, whatever happens, we have their back.

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And it’s just as well, because life as a backpack isn’t easy. Our bags go out into the world and fly on planes, ride on trains, hike up mountains and cycle through downpours. They get dropped, thrown, scuffed, yanked and torn - and when they do, we repair them. It’s good customer service, for sure, but it also helps us to build better bags. The more bags we repair, the more patterns we see.

We learn our bags weaknesses, and we begin to understand how the way it’s made might impact the way it wears. Then, every couple of years, we pool all of these learnings and we reiterate our designs. We design our wear points. We reinforce key panels. We redesign features that seem to be susceptible to failure. Our repairs process facilitates a continuous loop of iteration and reiteration, all founded in real-world experiences.

It’s just one way that we attempt to lower our impact on the environment. The vast majority of the carbon footprint of a backpack is created by us, right here, at the manufacturing stage - so it’s our responsibility to make sure that the carbon investment we make in each bag is worthwhile.

We have to build things to last - and crucially, we have to look after them throughout their lifetime.

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Image credit: Too Gallus

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Image credit: Too Gallus

But we’re all human. We fall in and out of love with the things we own. Whatever we wish for, whatever we build for, it’s a safe bet that there are some Trakke bags gathering dust in a lonely closet somewhere in the world. That’s where our Remade program comes into play. We buy these bags back from our customers. However old, however damaged, we’ll take it. When it comes back to our workshop, we repair it, restore it and find another customer willing to give it a fresh lease of life.

For us, it’s another way of preventing our bags from languishing in a basement and ensuring that the carbon investment we made was worthwhile. For our community, it’s an opportunity to buy discontinued models, unusual colour ways or just pre-loved bags that have a ton of character baked in. It’s a win win. And yet we’re often asked if this kind of commitment to ‘Built to Last’ means that we don’t get repeat customers. Quite the opposite.

When you find a brand that you love, and the brand takes care of you, you will always go back for more.

You accessorise. You buy gifts for friends and family. You recommend it to a friend.

Ultimately, it all comes down to looking ahead. Our focus on longevity, and the schemes we put in place to support it benefit us just as much as they benefit our community. Crucially, they prevent our bags from ending up in landfill, like so many products do. That’s not to say we have all the answers. We continue to learn, and continue to grow. This year is one of those years where we refresh our range. As I write, I’m being pulled onto the shop-floor to discuss upgrades and improvements to a seemingly endless stream of products that only two years ago, we thought were fine. I don’t think we got it wrong in the last design refresh. We’ve simply learned a lot since.

Over the next twelve months, these updated products will be launching alongside all-new designs. We’re excited to let them loose ‘in the wild’. Right now, I think they’re perfect - but I’m a bit biased. We’ve tested them as best we can, but nothing compares to the real world - so give it a couple of years, and no doubt we’ll be iterating once again. After all, design is a journey - not a destination.

SHOP TRAKKE.CO.UK

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“When you wear something you love, you make an emotional connection.“

Introducing Workhouse England

Image credit: Harry Adams

Led by Iggi Zain Leveritt and Ryoko Sakaguchi, Workhouse England draws inspiration from the past to create contemporary wearable men’s (sometimes worn by women), clothes tailored with enduring style.

Workhouse England is based in a converted Victorian Slaughterhouse in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England.

The studio hosts an archive of patterns, fabrics and mood boards. It's a constant source of inspiration and embodies the Workhouse spirit.

The centrepiece are rails that carry the latest Workhouse Collections. Classic garments from past collections and styles that can be worn all year round. Thus creating the biggest dressing up box for visitors to enjoy.

Icon Garments include the easy, everyday Chinwest jacket, the tailored, tapered Club trouser or the Peaky Blinder with rabbit ear pockets. The relaxed collarless bed shirt and the long bold East End coat. A classic piece of formal-wear, worn informally as casual outerwear. The high top bowler called the Chicken George is an ever-present finisher, a traditional English bowler with an extra two inches on top for supreme dandies. All made in England, made to last.

Fabrics are rich and time tested and include Italian cottons and Irish Linens. Scottish wools and English waxed cottons. Every textile is considered and just so; a specific shade, a certain touch, the play of the cloth.

DISCOVER WORKHOUSE ENGLAND Clothes by Workhouse England Photography by Harry Adams Model - Joe Dredge ( grandson ) Model - Terry Dredge ( grandfather ) Shot at the Peanut Factory studio London

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Time to focus on your sleep pattern...

Image credit: Irregular Sleep Pattern

Introduced by Diane Richardson

We've been following Irregular Sleep Pattern over the last couple of years and let's be honest, it's hard to miss with their brand direction of bold, colourful prints clashing in a rebel-like statement with the concept of sleepwear. It's unexpected and utterly refreshing!

ISP is an independent brand of bedding and sleepwear based in Glasgow, Scotland and run by husband and wife team Mil Stricevic and Jolene Crawford. Launched in Sep 2020 following 18 months R&D, the pair dreamed up their irregular business when they couldn't find playful bedding & sleepwear with the same attention to detail as the global clothing brands they love wearing during the day.

They describe their products as being “Designed at the intersection of art & utility” : the cut of the organic cotton sleepwear is inspired by workwear, paired with a maximalist aesthetic ethos featuring bold outsized patterns and playful colour combinations.

nightshirt, currently available in two colourways: Big EZ Mono and Paradox Triocolor. The brand’s second full collection consisting of six new pattern / colourways and their signature reversible duvet sets, is expected later this year. The ambition for Irregular Sleep Pattern is to make fabulous and durable products in a responsible manner, with prints being refreshed annually rather than following the seasonal whims of the established fashion calendar.

Mil studied product design at Glasgow School of Art and the Royal College of Art. Having worked as a footwear and accessories designer for Bikkembergs in Italy, alongside his role as Creative Director of Irregular Sleep Pattern, Mil teaches part time at GSA in the Innovation School and runs his own design practice. Jolene is a former arts television producer and is the powerhouse behind all other aspects of running the brand.

Irregularsleeppattern.com *Use SSEAMS code for 15% discount

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Image credit: Josh Croll

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FINNIESTONCLOTHING.COM SSEAMS Readers discount: SSEAMS10 ISSUE 004

Image credit: Too Gallus

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POP! From page illustration to real life Friend to the SSEAMS family, Simon Mcaleese aka Illustrator @deliberateindifference has turned his attention to bringing his designs to life with his new brand Saccade. We invited him to tell you about it.

"Coming from a background in menswear illustration, I was growing increasingly frustrated by the number of almost identical items being offered to consumers. Classics are classics for good reason, but let’s make them interesting and inject some more creativity into them via considered fabric and trims choices, different

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cuts, considered pocketing, collar and placket details etc.

A saccade is a rapid eye movement that shifts the centre of gaze from one point of fixation to another, and I think it sums up the whole ethos of the brand.

I want to create clothing that is visually interesting with details that will be appreciated by fellow clothing lovers. Hopefully you agree."

Follow @saccade

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FORAGING IN FIFE WITH DR LENA

Interview and photographed by Calum Huntington & Mantina Tserk Image credit: Calum Huntington & Mantina Tserk for SSEAMSWORKS

SSEAMSWORKS apparel tested by Dr Lena Kantzou on her recent forage MT: What does Scotland have to offer (foraging /food): Scotland is a land of breathtaking beauty, with a diverse landscape that offers something for everyone. From its rolling hills and lush green valleys to its rugged coastlines and wild woodlands, Scotland is a forager's paradise, rich in wild edibles and medicinal plants. Foraging has been a way of life in Scotland for centuries, and today it continues to be a popular activity among locals and tourists alike. With an abundance of wild berries, mushrooms, seaweed, and more, there is no shortage of natural treasures to be discovered. One of the most popular foraging experiences in Scotland is mushroom hunting. In the autumn months, ISSUE 004

the forests come alive with a variety of wild mushrooms, including chanterelles, ceps, hedgehogs, chicken of the woods and many more. Foraging tours and workshops are available, led by experienced guides who can help you identify the different species and teach you how to cook with them. Another popular foraging experience in Scotland is seaweed harvesting. Scotland's long coastline provides a rich source of seaweed, which is used in many traditional Scottish dishes and is also prized for its nutritional value. Seaweed foraging tours are available, where you can learn about the different types of seaweed and how to use them in your cooking.

Wild garlic is another popular foraged food in Scotland.

This versatile plant can be found in woodlands and hedgerows across the country and is used in soups, stews, and salads.

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Foraging for wild garlic is a great way to connect with nature and discover the bounty that Scotland has to offer. Keep in mind that foraging should always be done responsibly and sustainably, with respect for the environment and the plant and fungi species being harvested. It is important to seek permission from landowners, avoid protected areas, and only take what you need, leaving enough for the plant or fungi to regenerate.

Research has shown that spending time in nature has numerous health benefits, including reducing stress, improving mood, boosting the immune system, and lowering blood pressure. Forest bathing takes this concept one step further by encouraging participants

to slow down, focus on their senses, and connect with the natural environment in a more mindful way.

In conclusion, foraging in Scotland is an experience like no other, offering the chance to connect with nature, learn about local flora and fauna, and discover new and exciting ingredients to use in your cooking. So why not explore the wilds of Scotland and discover the bounty of nature for yourself?

MT: What do you wear for foraging / why?

When I am planning a foraging adventure, I always make sure I dress appropriately to ensure my comfort and safety in the great outdoors.

Image credit: Calum Huntington & Mantina Tserk for SSEAMSWORKS

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First and foremost, it's important to choose clothing that is comfortable, durable, and breathable. Foraging often involves a lot of walking, bending, and crouching, so it's essential to wear clothing that allows for a full range of movement. Clothing made from natural fibres, such as cotton or wool, is ideal, as it will keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

When it comes to footwear, I like to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes that provide good support and grip. I avoid wearing sandals or open-toed shoes, as these can be hazardous in the forest. A good pair of wellies will see me through summer and winter. I also wear long pants to protect my legs from scratches, bites, and other hazards that may be encountered while foraging. Lightweight, breathable pants made from natural fibres are ideal, as they will keep cool and comfortable in warm weather.

In addition to clothing and footwear, I always make sure to dress in layers that can be easily added or removed as needed. Weather conditions can change quickly in Scotland, so it's important to be prepared for any eventuality. A lightweight, waterproof jacket is my absolute go-to, especially in the unpredictable Scottish weather.

The SSEAMS Balfron Work Coat has become a permanent feature of my foraging trips for most seasons. Depending on what I am foraging for, gloves can be a useful addition to my foraging basket. They protect hands from thorns, nettles, and other hazards, as well as keep my hands clean.

In conclusion, dressing appropriately for foraging is essential for both comfort and safety. Choosing comfortable, breathable clothing, sturdy footwear, long pants, layers, and gloves to help ensure an enjoyable and safe foraging experience.

Shop the Balfron work coat via SSEAMSWORKS.CO The SSEAMSWORKS x Seahawk collaboration puts a spotlight on Seahawk Apparel, the garment manufacturer based in Glenrothes, Fife and celebrates 2 years of working together to promote the resurgence of onshore manufacturing.

Image credit: Calum Huntington & Mantina Tserk for SSEAMSWORKS

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BRITISH SUMMERTIME READY WITH PEREGRINE

Image credit: Peregrine

The SS23 collection encapsulates everything about British Summertime with products defined by nostalgic seasons and scenic coastlines, think warm beach days and ducking from seagulls.

The range consists of Zero Waste polo’s that have been intelligently crafted and sustainably manufactured as one piece to produce garments with no seams and no fabric waste.

Accompanied by summery linen knits made right here on our doorstep in our Manchester knitwear factory and light linen jackets.

Designed with the warmer and sandier months in mind, they showcase all that encompasses the versatility of mother nature in linen form and demonstrate the beauty of using responsibly sourced fabric to create garments with minimal impact on the environment.

Shop peregrineclothing.co.uk

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SS 23 HAWICO SCOTLAND FLYING HIGH Image credit: Hawico Scotland

Hawico Scotland. A family business crafting luxury cashmere garments of uncompromised quality, drawing on over a century of traditional skills whilst embracing the improved techniques offered by technological advancement. Always made in our factory in Hawick, Scotland since 1874.

Fresh and perfect for the changing seasons, Hawico's latest cashmere collection. Inspired by light, the Scottish countryside, seasonal fruits and flowers, this collection centres on the beauty of colour. SS23’s new colours focus on the vibrant elements of the season.

Hawico Edinburgh 71 Grassmarket, Edinburgh. EH1 2HJ Tel +44 131 225 8634 Hawico Kelso 20 Bridge Street, Kelso. TD5 7JD Tel +44 1573 226776 Hawick (Outlet) Hawico Visitor Centre & Factory Shop, Arthur Street, Hawick. TD9 9QA Tel +44 1450 371221

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Image credit: Hawico Scotland

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Scotland Project "For a small but established brand, the post Brexit, post Covid and Tory mismanaged environment can be a very challenging situation.

Decades of European trade has evaporated and manufacturing, although still possible with the EU has become more complicated. However the rising costs in London means that for the most part manufacturing is not sustainable there either.

The answer ? Regroup and realign.

Locality and relationships are even more key; so a return of sorts to my homeland and region of the east of Scotland.

We were already working with Halley Stevenson for quite a few years before 6876 connected with the team at SSEAMS who proposed the idea that we could actually manufacture clothing, not just buy fabric or knitwear, from Scotland.

Also, on many levels, there is an emerging creative community in Scotland which is augmented by much travelled Scots returning home to add their expertise and enjoy a better lifestyle.

So, 6876 is working with SSEAMS, Halley Stevenson and Seahawk to develop products, and I am indulging in my passion for, at times, the much maligned Brutalist architecture that was built in the 60's and 70's."

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à suivre...

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"6876 is working with SSEAMS, Halley Stevenson and Seahawk to develop products, and I am indulging in my passion for at times, the much maligned brutalist architecture that was built in the 60's and 70's."

Image credits: Traffic Jam Studio

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FOR THE PIONEERS &SONS story began in 2014, as its founder, Phil James, a commercial photographer, had conceived the idea of producing a range of workwear that would be created by and for artisans, craftspeople and pioneering creatives.

The feel and style of the brand draws upon throwback influences, such as American workwear from the mid-to-late 20th century; leaders in the industrial age; and old-school motorbikes. &SONS refuses to pump out large releases frequently, instead small drops land throughout the season. All pieces are considered carefully and done in the most sustainable way. The emphasis of &SONS is always quality first.

CLOTHES FOR PIONEERS It was an early start for the team to catch dawn patrol but the Cornish weather was glorious and it was the perfect place to get to know Olaus and his family.

&SONS "Each month we do a ‘Pioneer’ feature on a creative or someone who is breaking new ground, trying something new or just setting out on a new path. We found Kiri surfboards and decided that Olaus McLeod, the founder, would make the perfect Pioneer.

He is championing sustainability in the surf industry by creating wooden surfboards with his company Kiri."

Image credit: &SONS

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OM: How I arrived at Kiri has been quite a journey! I started with a degree in philosophy. I then spent 12 years working as an airline pilot.

After that, I was employed as a drone operator and completed a couple of tours in Afghanistan. I then wanted to get back home to Cornwall to be with my family more, so I became a primary school teacher! Then COVID hit, which became the catalyst for so much change in the world.

Personally, COVID allowed me the time that I'd never had before to commit to something that I’d wanted to do for a long time. I'm a lifelong surfer, but I'd never had the opportunity to shape my own board before.

Alongside that, I had a growing sense of the need to look after our planet and make the right choices of products, materials and manufacturing processes. So, for me, the only way to go forward with Kiri was to create a wooden surfboard. I taught myself how to shape a board by researching it online, and also getting hold of how-to books and eBooks.

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Image credit: Phil James

No sooner had I shaped my first board than friends and family started saying “Do one for me please!”

Very soon, the snowball started to gain momentum, all through word of mouth. It's just been growing ever since - completely organically.

Fundamentally, Kiri is an expression of my personal passion for the ocean environment - that we should really take care of it for our own benefit, as well as for the benefit of the entire planet and for future generations.

One of my personal core values and therefore a core value for Kiri is sustainability. We put the planet before everything. In everything we do, we relentlessly pursue the most sustainable materials and strive to use the most sustainable processes that we can. We're not there yet, but we're working on it. For example, I use a lot of electricity in the shaping of my boards and we're working towards sourcing renewables, so that we can be completely off-grid.

LET'S TALK GARMENTS Two of my personal favourites are the Breton shirt (I'm a lifelong fan of a stripe!) and the Carver jackets.

I love the fact that the Carvers have an authentic connection to the hardy outerwear, traditionally worn

by French workers, fishermen and sailors. They're fantastically practical and comfortable, season in and season out. I love my Carver jacket. It goes with me everywhere!

Follow more Pioneers via andsons.co.uk *SSEAMS readers discount: Use SSEAMS25 discount code

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Image credit: Phil James

"Kiri surfboards are an expression of my deep, lifelong passion for the ocean. I've swam in, surfed, paddled and sailed on the ocean, my whole life. Particularly since COVID, I have become increasingly aware of the mental health benefits of time spent in blue spaces, in, on and beside the ocean. I dip in the sea every day before I go to work, year-round, in my board shorts. I am passionate about keeping our beaches clean and often take part in local beach cleans, with fantastic organisations such as Plastic Free Penzance and Surfers Against Sewage."

By Olaus McLeod, Founder, Kiri

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Image credit: Phil James

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SSEAMS NEWCOMER SERIES The team at SSEAMS has been discovering & championing new brands since 2017

PATRIAM Introduced by Diane Richardson

Image credit: SPACE 21

Based in Perth, Scotland and founded by Engineer, David Symon, PATRIAM launched earlier this year.

The name, Latin for Homeland, speaks to their aim of keeping the core of the brand as close to home as possible, manufacturing in the heart of Scotland with materials from around Britain. What I admire about David is he has taken his engineering background and applied it to garment design; thoughtful and considered. We are excited for his future with the brand.

Words by David: Another reason we chose PATRIAM is that it can apply to anyone, everyone has a homeland. The fact that our designs are influenced from around the world illustrates the idea that whilst being based in Scotland, our clothes are designed to be used around the world, and moulded to the environment of the user in ways that we can’t always foresee.

"Our clothes aim to break the cycle of fast fashion, creating garments that last and combine high quality with a reasonable price. Additionally, we have no intention of following seasonal activities, instead we will release garments as and when there is demand, with a firm focus on minimising textile waste."

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"Our clothes aim to break the cycle of fast fashion, creating garments that last and combine high quality with a reasonable price. Additionally, we have no intention of following seasonal activities, instead we will release garments as and when there is demand, with a firm focus on minimising textile waste."

Image credit: SPACE 21

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Image credit: SPACE 21

PATRIAM.COM LAUNCHING AUGUST Follow PATRIAM on instagram

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OPEN DOORS Our appreciation for the apparel & lifestyle independent retailers grew a little more with the fall out from the pandemic as we watched in anticipation whose doors would reopen.

We share some stories from the resilient owners switching up their game and doing it their way.

One thing they do have in common is their past experience, all with accomplished careers yet not who you would expect to be running your premium local indie! It's those life experiences balanced with their change of lifestyle that truly makes their stores special. Additionally, their ability to tell life stories adds value too; the perfect place for brands to partner up with these creative retailers and entrust their product stories to be communicated perfectly to customers.

Up first is Paul Gillen (pictured left), owner of Uncommon Life store, Bridge of Allan. He tells his story about how he arrived into the world of retail after a career in teaching. Up next is entrepreneur Karen Harvey of Glasgow based retail group, HOOS - we feature Green HOOS, a beautiful space for the green fingered enthusiast! Karen returned to Glasgow to open HOOS after living and working in England for the charity sector. She was awarded an MBE for her work with vulnerable children and families.

Next up is Spoiled Life in St Andrews - a lifestyle, clothing, and coffee store. Spoiled Life began its journey with Glenn and Steve’s first business venture together, Spoiled Hairdressing - a hair salon. The store has been serving The Roasting Project specialty coffee roasted in nearby Burntisland since 2020 and carefully curates its products with a firm eye on responsibility made.

Also featured, good story store on Hyndland Road, perfectly curated with a host of emerging brands from home & away.

And, in good company, we announce the launch of our sister company SSEAMSWORKS first rural concept store, No.25, located in Balfron, Stirlingshire, below our studio. A space to support brands close their circularity gap as we will welcome a space rental opportunity for brands who are holding stock and would love another outlet and opportunity to sell to our rural audience.

In summary, retail is still at the heart of our communities, and we still love to visit, discover and touch & feel!

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RURAL RETAIL THE NEW HIGH STREET Image credit: Ashley Forsyth for SSEAMS

Paul Gillen returned to Scotland in 2020 with his family, after over 25 years in London. His first few years down south were spent working in fashion production after graduating from Galashiels College of Textiles, before moving into primary school teaching, followed by a period as a stay-at-home dad. The pull of family drew Paul back home and, with his children now teenagers, he decided it was time to return to work.

After considering various options, Paul eventually settled on opening a shop, an idea that had been developing in his mind for a while and which satisfied his inclination to work in a creative field.

Inspired by shops from his time down south such as Stiffkey Stores, Labour and Wait, Nook, The Hambledon and menswear store Array, Paul began to collect ideas for product ranges and shop interiors.

Living in Dollar, the obvious location for a shop was in the nearby bustling Victorian spa town of Bridge of Allan. Bridge of Allan has a busy high street with thriving independent shops, cafes and restaurants.

Paul felt he could open a store that would complement the unique and interesting shops

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already found there. So, with the support of his partner Colin McLeod, plans were hatched and the lease was signed.

Uncommon Life opened in October 2022 and is a warm and inviting lifestyle store with a Scandinavian aesthetic. It was important to Paul to create an interior that reflected the quality of the product range and he was delighted to collaborate with Edinburgh shopfitters, Splintr, who are responsible for the most stylish shop, café and restaurant spaces in the capital.

With an eye for good design, Paul has sourced beautiful homewares, stationery, clothing and lifestyle products from Scotland, the UK and Scandinavia – Uncommon Life is one of only three authorised Normann Copenhagen stockists in Scotland. Homewares are the central focus of the store with a growing range of contemporary Danish lighting. The vegan bath and body range, including Scottish brands Laura Thomas, Dook and MODM has also expanded.

Cards and stationery are produced by UK independent artists and designers, with a few based in Scotland.

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Image credit: Ashley Forsyth for SSEAMS

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To begin with, there was a small selection of Thames & Hudson design books but this grew quickly to include fiction, music, gardening, cooking, sport and history, as well as a selection of independently published magazines.

Uncommon Life launched with a small selection of clothing, offering field jackets and sweatshirts from The Good Neighbour, Country of Origin knitwear and cashmere accessories from local mill Todd & Duncan. This range started as a trial for the shop.

Paul had struggled to find affordable, well-designed menswear for himself locally, so was slightly concerned that meant that there wasn’t a market for menswear in the area, so he was prepared to accept it might not work.

However, like the book range, this turned out to be an immediate success and is one of the most popular ranges, bought by young and old, male and female. The collection has grown to include Edinburgh-based Kestin, Portuguese brand La Paz, an expanded range from The Good Neighbour, who aims to use deadstock fabrics rather than buy new, and Ivy Ellis socks, made in Inverness.

Image credit: Ashley Forsyth for SSEAMS

Future plans involve developing the forecourt as a space to stock garden plants, pots and furniture.

Claire Palfreyman Garden Design recently designed and installed large planters with Scottishinfluenced, naturalistic planting as the first step in these plans. Paul is also keen to collaborate with, and increase the number of, Scottish artists and makers in the shop, as well as introducing ‘Meet the Maker’ evenings for customers to learn more about the products, be that production processes, environmental issues, skin care demonstrations or home and personal styling and much more.

Watch this space.

Uncommon life store 61 Henderson St Bridge of Allan Stirling FK9 4HG Shop digital / click & collect: Uncommon life

Special thanks to Forth Valley College student Ashley Forsyth for this photoshoot. Image credits: Ashley Forsyth for SSEAMS Paul wears the SSEAMSWORKS Balfron Work coat, Safety Yellow, in collaboration with Seahawk Apparel, Fife based Garment manufacturer. Shop the line HERE

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"I was brought up in Glasgow and my parents used to buy our furniture from the Danish Design Centre. They had a modest flat but it was really comfortable and now I know - stylish home! I love the quality and functionality of Danish design, hence I decided to focus on Danish Brands."

Equipping your HOOS with style HOOS is an independent lifestyle shop in the vibrant West End of Glasgow which opened in 2016 with a focus on Scandinavian design.

Throughout the last seven years Karen Harvey has managed to establish her own small universe in the area, along with HOOS’s two sister stores inHOOS and Green HOOS which both opened in 2022.

Karen returned to Glasgow to open HOOS after living and working in England for the charity sector. She was awarded an MBE for her work with vulnerable children and families.

“I set up Hoos when I returned to Glasgow after having lived in Suffolk for thirty years. I wanted a new career and have always loved Interiors and making a home, and perhaps being a shopkeeper. Running a business is essentially the same as running a charity.”

“I was brought up in Glasgow and my parents used to buy our furniture from the Danish Design Centre. They had a modest flat but it was really comfortable and - now I know stylish home! I love the quality and functionality of Danish design, hence I decided to focus on Danish Brands. Simplicity is usually the key and of course designers in Denmark have produced some of the most iconic design classics which are still on top of everyone’s list to this day.”

HOOS has naturally evolved over the last seven years to become something more than a designer lifestyle store - it's a place where customers come back to again and again to get inspired. Anyone in search of gift ideas, decorative items, candles, books and even cosmetics, jewellery and clothing will always find something to take home from HOOS. The West End has been so supportive of everything we have offered which has included plants, flowers and small furniture - when we could fit it in. The shop is like the village store sometimes with people bumping into friends and catching up on life!

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Image credit: Rimbaud Patron Photography

There have aways been pockets of greatness in Glasgow, and the West End has some really great independent businesses which we are proud to be part of.

Karen’s love for what she does reflects on all her three stores, all of which have their distinct HOOS feel to them whilst offering different ranges of products for customers to explore.

Words by Karen... inHOOS emerged during covid and has already established a reputation in Glasgow. The store opened its doors in April 2022 and showcases a selection of furniture, lighting, textiles and accessories from prestigious Danish design houses such as HAY, Muuto, Normann Copenhagen, Ferm Living, Fritz Hansen and Skagerak.

I noticed the unit inHOOS coming up for rent and I could not resist taking the plunge as I have always wanted to show my customers furniture from my range of brands. It is a beautiful spacious showroom with huge display windows and parking outside – a big bonus in the West End. Our Danish brands work in collaboration with some of the best designers to offer contemporary collections. New products are launched every year at 3 Days of ISSUE 004

Design in Copenhagen which keeps bringing freshness to our stores.

Green HOOS is our newest venture offering a curated selection of indoor and outdoor plants, flowers and gardening accessories.

For years I used to sell lots of plants and pots at HOOS, which we had displayed both inside and outside the store. As I am a keen gardener and love growing things, I soon realised I really enjoyed the routine of going up to the Flower Market every week to pick up my order. During a time of reflection around the covid events, I decided to take up the offer from my friends to be part of the new Crabshakk Botanics and open Green HOOS on the garage ramp next door.

Collaboration is also really important to us and over the years we have offered the opportunity for pop ups within the store to contribute to the development of young designers and to promote makers from Scotland and beyond. We plan to continue this in all three stores expanding towards all design fields and bringing people together.

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Image credit: Rimbaud Patron Photography

I have always had lots of energy and growing up my mum was always one for us being productive, no sitting reading a book in our house. I love meeting new people, being a shop keeper and part of the West End community. I feel at the heart of our village, especially now that I have three shops. I have a great team of six working with me who are all creative young people and I feel lucky to be able to offer them secure employment and involve them in the development of the HOOS brand.

Offering good customer service is a priority for us and, although we do have sales from our websites, it is all about the physical stores and making sure they are vibrant and friendly places to shop in for our customers.

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Find the HOOS you need: HOOS 715 Great Western Road, G12 8QX, Glasgow www.hoosglasgow.co.uk hello@hoosglasgow.co.uk inHOOS 91-93 Great Western Road, G4 9AH, Glasgow www.inhoos.co.uk hello@inhoos.co.uk Green HOOS 18 Vinicombe Street, G12 8BE, Glasgow hello@hoosglasgow.co.uk

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A wander down Hyndland Road, Glasgow Introducing good story: Image credit: good story

Thoughtful Style. good story is an independent neighbourhood store offering a unique edit of contemporary clothing brands and quality lifestyle goods. We offer a selected range of well-made clothing, living and wellness.

With a relaxed and timeless aesthetic and the common thread of style, considered design and mindful production, our Hyndland store is a welcoming and laid-back space where all are welcome.

Visit the store; good story 175 Hyndland Rd Glasgow G12 9HT Follow on Instagram

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GO ON, SPOIL YOURSELF! Image credit: Cameron Malcolm

Spoiled Life is a unique lifestyle, clothing, and coffee store that is based in the historic town of St Andrews, Scotland. The store has been serving The Roasting Project specialty coffee roasted in nearby Burntisland since 2020 and has been a favourite among locals and tourists alike.

A unique Concept Store, Spoiled Life combines a refined collection of Skandi + Moroccan inspired homeware & decor, with a gorgeous range of self care and lifestyle products, and an inspired clothing collection - including a brand lineup you will find nowhere else. The store's new SS23 collection is no exception, featuring staple brands such as Folk, a returning favourite in House of Sunny, and exciting things to come from YMC with new pieces that are sure to excite.

Apart from its clothing collection, Spoiled Life is also known for its After Hours events, giving you an insight into Spoiled Life once the work day is over.

Think - late night shopping, drinks, discounts and live music.

Visit Spoiled Life for a shopping experience you will find nowhere else.

You can visit Spoiled Life at 15 Greyfriars Garden, St Andrews KY16 9HG or online at www.spoiledlife.co.uk Find us on Facebook + Instagram @spoiledlifestore

Spoiled Life has always been known for its attention to detail, and SS23 is no exception. With forward thinking styles and a focus on quality construction and sustainable thinking, this brand lineup comes together to create an SS23 Collection that is perfect for those chasing a progressive, sustainable and high quality wardrobe.

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SPOILED LIFE 15 Greyfriars Garden St Andrews KY16 9HG Image credit: Cameron Malcolm

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sur+ rural store

NO.25 O P E N S A U G U S T

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SSEAMSWORKS

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RURAL STORE LOCATION: STIRLINGSHIRE, SCOTLAND 25 Dunmore Street, Balfron, Stirling, G63 0PZ ENQUIRE TO STOCK YOUR BRAND VIA WWW.SSEAMSWORKS.CO

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SSEAMSWORK

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NO.25 rural store Bringing our magazine to life here in rural Stirlingshire, we introduce you to SSEAMSWORKS rural store. No.25 Dunmore street is located in the village of Balfron, 16 miles north of Glasgow, with a heritage in the textile industry. A 20 minute drive and you are by Loch Lomond and numerous iconic hills situated around this part of central Scotland.

The perfect test ground for functional apparel brands in a location folks are moving out to from the city.

After building a community of apparel makers & aficionados, we feel it's the right time to continue to expand our ecosystem and offer an opportunity for independent brands to showcase their products together under one roof, curated by our expert team carefully and with a knowledgeable considered approach.

Consumers are increasingly aware of the huge impact of unsold products that are sitting in warehouses across the world, and they are demanding that we address the issue. As both retailers and consumers, SSEAMS is passionate

about supporting the circular economy however we can, because if we all contribute even in a very small way, we can have a big impact. Our new rural destination store, No. 25, will offer brands the opportunity to reframe their excess stock commitments. We will be a new kind of surplus store that offers a quirky presentation of great products to a new and eager audience.

Come and join us at No.25 in beautiful rural Stirlingshire.

We are particularly interested in: Lifestyle brands Sports / Outdoor brands Apparel Accessories Bags Opens August ready for Autumn in Scotland!

25 Dunmore Street, Balfron, Stirling, G63 0PZ

ENQUIRE TO STOCK YOUR BRAND VIA WWW.SSEAMSWORKS.CO

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MAKERS STORIES Behind every successful brand is a trusted group of makers. It’s their products that make or break the garments, however, they are seldom talked about outside of the industry.

But now, responsible consumers want to know more about their garments. Who made them? Where were they made? What are they my made of? Where is the fabric from?

There is a huge appetite to know more about the makers behind the garments. The experts whose innovations and creativity support and inspire our favourite brands.

At SSEAMS we want to celebrate ALL of the amazing makers behind brands. Previously known as the unsung heroes of the apparel world, they are now having their moment in the spotlight.

We talk to some of our favourites.

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The latest addition to the extensive Brisbane Moss range of UK stock supported Corduroy, Moleskin, Flat Cotton, Linen and Velvet fabrics.

Shelley is a medium weight Twill, 280gm2, slightly peached for a soft hand feel, 97% Cotton/3% Elasthane offering supreme comfort and performance.

Credit to Johnny Szymanski

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MEET THE NICOLSONS Words by Louise Nicolson Image credit: Julien Borghino

There's a real sense of serendipity to our recent connection with SSEAMS. We share a number of mutual associates but had never yet crossed paths with Diane & the team until an instagram post prompted conversation, immediately shining a light on our common thinking and comparable aspirations. We share more than goals to revive certain sectors of Scottish manufacturing; we share a compulsion to make it happen.

At GNKfamily, our main business is kiltmaking. Our wee clan of associated craft businesses has evolved to encompass the retail of authentic highlandwear, sustainable gifts & accessories, as well as traditional bagpipe making. Yet at our source, kilt making by hand, developing and teaching those skills, remains fundamental.

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It has taken us a while to get where we are – to the point of feeling that finally....finally we are achieving what we always aimed for, but as our in-house Edinburgh Kiltmakers Academy reaches its eighth year of operation, we can see that the successes of our graduates are heralding tangible change within the Highlandwear Industry. Kiltmaking is coming out of the shadows, into the spotlight and it’s EXCITING! So, how did we get here?

Gordon & I met at work, in Liberty of London Edinburgh branch, way back when it was a landmark on George Street. Gordon arrived there from a highlandwear background, whereas I had just fledged from the Scottish College of Textiles.

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Image credit: Julien Borghino 189 Canongate, Edinburgh

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Image credit: Julien Borghino Gordon Nicolson Highlandwear

We both were feeling frustration however at the parallel upsurge in low-quality, imported goods and the demise of UK- based manufacturing. When an opportunity arose to strike out alone, Gordon seized it, sensing the chance to build an enterprise which could celebrate our National Dress, protect & develop heritage craft skills and raise the standards of handsewn kiltmaking.

Gordon Nicolson Kiltmakers was born, and as we continue to grow, we like to keep it real. We work with suppliers who are experts in their field and based as locally as possible . Our cloth, for example, is woven in Scotland by world-leading mills who have survived by challenging the boundaries of their craft whilst cherishing generations of inherited knowledge. We trust their quality. We understand their constraints. And we applaud their technical progress whilst rebuilding sustainability back into their methods and materials.

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We are proud of the working relationships that we have built and of the results of our combined labours, but we want to take it further. We don’t want to make just kilts and gents highlandwear, we want to make ladies garments too. And we want to make them in Scotland. Sustainably. We don’t want to deviate from our core principles of craftsmanship, original design and valued heritage, we need to ensure we work with compatible teams.

So, we were pretty enthused when that recent post on instagram caught our attention. A post highlighting positive dialogue and collaboration within areas of clothing technology and manufacturing, in Scotland. A conversation has begun, let's see where it takes us!

VIEW NICOLSON KILTMAKERS

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BEHIND THE FABRIC INTERVIEW WITH DOROTHY ARNOTT OF HALLEY STEVENSONS

Image credit: Halley Stevensons

Emma Varsanyi takes some time out with Dorothy Arnott, aka Dot, Sales & Marketing Manager of renowned weatherproof fabric maker, Halley Stevensons.

continuously evolve creating new finishes. We supply world renowned fashion businesses globally, high street and independent designers alike.

Tell us about Halley Stevensons?

Halley Stevensons are Textiles manufacturers specialising in the production of authentic waxed cotton and water repellent fabrics for the apparel and luggage markets.

What is Halley Stevensons best known for?

Innovating Textiles since 1864 based in Dundee, Scotland our unique selling points are creating fabrics which are built to last and sustainable at their core. We dye and finish all under one roof, which gives us control of the process and high quality.

Weatherproof fabrics help us stay warm and dry in the toughest conditions. From urban commuters to

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Image credit: Halley Stevensons

seasoned explorers, distant ancestors to future generations, we rely on these materials to protect us from the elements.

As a partner to some of the world’s leading fashion houses, we undertake all dyeing, processing, and finishing from our factory in Dundee. This keeps our footprint small while maintaining traceability at every stage — it also offers a deeper level of collaboration to clients when developing bespoke fabrics.

EV: What are you most proud of at Halley Stevensons?

I am most proud of the partnerships we build with like minded brands. Our team goes out of our way to service our clients. We don't take a one-sizefits-all approach. Our processes are flexible, allowing greater control during production. Shared ownership is important to us as we believe the best work is done when working towards a common goal.

EV: What’s it like to be a part of the team at Halley Stevensons?

We have a collaborative community. Each of our members are willing to help and support each other as well as business growth. We're confident

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and understated with a genuine passion for what we do. We build long-term relationships that place value on collaboration and trust, both in-house and with external clients. As a result, our original fabrics are bursting with integrity, character, and heritage.

EV: What does the future look like for Halley Stevensons?

Through conscious innovation and time-honed craft, our textiles are a sustainable alternative to synthetic polymers and are packed full of character. By learning from our environment, we have developed wax finishes that are robust, stand the test of time and are ready to respond to whatever mother nature throws at us.

We're a creative business that can see the bigger picture. We pride ourselves on breaking new ground — inventing new products and processes that are high quality, gentle on the environment and fair to our supply chain.

Halley Stevensons is the future of performance naturals.

Halleystevensons.co.uk

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Courtney & Co. Button Makers 10 YEARS IN THE MAKING Image credit: Courtney & Co.

Words by David Courtney // With Emma Varsanyi For the people of Halesowen, in England’s West Midlands, the shortest day of the year 2012 turned into one of the darkest in the town’s history. For on that day, administrators arrived at the factory of James Grove & Sons Ltd and dispassionately announced that the company was insolvent and was closing its doors. For the two dozen or so employees it was devastating. For the Grove family, it ended an enterprise which spanned 155 years and 5 successive generations. For its customers it seemed to mark the end of horn button-making in the UK. For James Grove was the last maker of its ilk.

Courtney & Co was born, without any previous direct or relevant experience in button-making or the garment industry. It was a brave, some say insane, decision, but was born out of a simple desire to revive not only horn button making in the UK, but to learn and pass on the skills and crafts which had been honed over generations of James Grove’s operational lifetime.

Without any prior knowledge or experience of our own, we were fortunate in having a small handful of mostly retired button-makers who wanted to help and support us. Moving people, machines and materials between Halesowen, Corby and our home in the Months passed by and hopes of rescue evaporated.

Cotswolds, we slowly over time learned each of the The factory was emptied, plant and machinery various elements involved acquiring not only new auctioned and the once faithful employees either skills, but a legion of new machines along the way. We sought other jobs in the area or retired. Their launched our first range of buttons made from Corozo cumulative skills, knowledge and experience are lost at the end of 2016 adding Codelite® (milk casein) and no longer in demand. buttons two years later in 2018.

Responding to an article in Country Life magazine to Eventually, things took shape and with our new team ‘Save Britain’s Buttons’ on the 5th June 2013, Andrea members, Steve and Lise, onboard the company & David Courtney bought a small array of what was on started to look and operate as the button-maker we offer and agreed to lease it to someone who intended had long wanted to become. Making buttons is now to restart production. The attempt proved wholly within our gift and we have recently achieved unsuccessful and within 18 months’ the phoenix our guiding ambition of making horn buttons where the company collapsed. Faced with the option of either once illustrious James Grove company had left off. selling the machines or taking over the baton, ISSUE 004

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Image credit: Courtney & Co.

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Image credit: Courtney & Co.

It is a job of care and precision. It takes time. The ‘round’ blanks we buy are sadly not ‘round’ or the right diameter at all most of the time. So, with a new horn grinding machine, we rectify the blanks to make them perfectly round and ready for turning – the process which gives it the contours of the finished buttons.

The machine is a piece of engineering excellence, but once again demands time, care and precision. It takes hours, literally hours, for the machine to be set-up accurately and correctly. But there is no alternative. Once set up, the machine produces buttons at an impressive rate, 15 a minute or so depending on size, material and pattern. But this is just a fraction of the time it takes to scour, matt or polish the buttons which drop with metronomic regularity into the collecting bin of the turning machine.

The minutes and seconds of each individual process turn into hours and days. But the real time has been spent getting this far. 10 years to be exact. And with Steve’s and Lise’s passion and commitment to their ‘forever’ jobs’ we hope that we will also be able to pass the skills we have learnt on to the next generation of button makers and prevent another James Grove-style outcome for many years to come.

Discuss your button requirements via COURTNEYANDCO.UK

Using a combination of reconditioned wooden barrels from James Grove and others we have added along the way, the buttons cascade not for hours, but days in a way that smoothens and either matts or polishes the surface depending on the type of media which is added to the barrels.

For us, making horn buttons is all about time.

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Let's talk about naturally performing linen with Sam Image credit: Sam Binstead

Written words & photography by Sam Binstead Sam Binstead is a professional fashion and portrait photographer, who spends his spare time advocating for a slower approach to living. His work champions makers who craft useful, beautiful products with longevity in mind.

Since finding my feet with my personal style around 10 years ago, linen has been an integral part of my wardrobe. In the past 5 years of diving deeper into sustainability and slow style, it has become part of my personality.

As corporations try to squirm their way out of the climate crisis by chasing new tech; inventing new fabrics; and selling us more and more new stuff, smaller designers and brands - the brands I revel in working with and advocating for, those with a genuine belief that it can be done better - are turning to natural, renewable, ancient flax.

Image credit: Sam Binstead

I’d love to wax lyrical about how flax can flourish in poor soil conditions, how it doesn’t require anywhere near the pesticides that cotton does, how the whole plant is used (linseed oil and flaxseed are valuable products!), how it’s a stronger and more durable fibre than cotton, how it’s an incredibly versatile fabric and not just for floaty summer shirting, and how it’s completely biodegradable (if it’s pure linen, with plant based dye, it can even start to decompose in just 2 weeks!), but I’m not really a writer so here’s some photos of my favourite linen pieces.

Follow samuelbinstead.co.uk Image credit: Sam Binstead

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SPRING

Linen trousers - vintage Linen shirt - MHL, second hand Linen Jacket - Nyoo Store Bag - Charlie Borrow Shoes - Noble & Wylie

SUMMER

Linen Shorts - Flax London Shirt - Lane Forty Five Vest - Lichen Hat - The Organic Lab Pouch - Francli Sandals - Noble & Wylie

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Image credit: Sam Binstead

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Image credit: Sam Binstead

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SSEAMSWORKS work in progress

Words by Diane Richardson Image credit:John Barbour for SSEAMS X Seahawk

The SSEAMS collective originally came together to support the apparel industry from a consulting perspective after long careers working in-house for various international brands. Then the pandemic hit.

So, as it stands today, Seahawk is the production room and we now have ambition to add other rooms to that infrastructure.

For everyone, including ourselves, the goal posts moved. We had to react, reset and through this period we discovered a garment manufacturer in Scotland; Seahawk Apparel, based in Glenrothes, Fife. Our heads turned from global with no access to travel, back to local.

Between the showroom/studio/No.25 rural store in Stirlingshire and growing facility in Fife, we are setting a pathway for modern garment manufacturing through a new ecosystem to not only safeguard its future in Scottish manufacturing but to support brands make better environmental impact decisions as to quote our ethos, "we bring brand, maker & mill together for the common good."

Our relationship has flourished over the last 2 years and we now work hand in hand on private label customer engagement through to offering services no factory in Scotland offers; materials sourcing / design / product development / SME brand consulting, the list goes on...

Seahawk currently produces the categories of Outerwear and Trousers. Together, we are in the process of building a leading Materials library curated by Ruth Kelly and John Lundy.

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Image credits:John Barbour for SSEAMS X Seahawk

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Image credits:John Barbour for SSEAMS X Seahawk

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Image credits:John Barbour for SSEAMS X Seahawk

Image credit: xxxx Image credit: Otago Street Collective

At the beginning of this year, with Matthew Abbott and John Lundy leading Design & Development, we launched the first Factory selling collection - a 10 piece collection available fully factored to apparel brands and retailers who can access Seahawk's expertise in outerwear and trouser making for private label development.

We believe this is just the beginning and we are looking forward to bringing more textile advancements to this partnership later this year.

FOLLOW OUR JOURNEY, SSEAMSWORKS.CO For enquiries about producing at Seahawk or to pick up the Factory collection brochure, contact SSEAMS showroom via hello@sseams.co

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WHITEHILL MERCANTILE AN INVITATION TO THE SHED

Introducing John Lundy, Founder of Whitehill Mercantile by Diane Richardson Take a sewing machine or two (actually he's admitted to having four now) and place them in a shed, and add two decades of garment tech experience and you might get close, but only close to what John Lundy has created from, yes, his shed - Operation Whitehill Mercantile is well underway.

If you follow Whitehill on Instagram, you will notice the image on the right is the most you have seen of John in years - if you know, you know. He is a fixture around the apparel scene in Glasgow which is his hometown and he is one of the most humble, endearing humans you will ever meet. His collections are designed by him with a quiet self assurance that his products will undeniably last the test of time. Durable, hardwearing and smartly garment engineered.

Words by John: "Next steps for Whitehill, from a product perspective, is continuing to increase the size of our apparel range, including more outerwear which I’ve been testing and seeing a great response from our customers. The bag collection has become core to our brand and we will be looking at new styles throughout the rest of the year. Our aim is to extend our reach and start our growth plans whilst remaining true to our values. And, I'm excited to say there will be a small shift away from the shed into a Scottish manufacturing partner but that said, the shed is here to stay!"

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The time has come to mend our clothes Flora Collingwood-Norris has published a book “Visible creative mending for knitwear”, with step by step instructions and inspiration for creative repairs. She also runs online workshops, and provides darning kits and materials.

Image credit: Rose + Julien Ltd

I fell in love with visible mending about six years ago, when I repaired a small hole on an old secondhand cashmere sweater by turning it into an embroidered flower detail. Throwing away a much loved garment because of a hole has never felt right to me, and so when a couple of sweaters of mine were chewed by my first puppy, I turned the rips into patches of colour. Now I get so much more joy from wearing them. Visible mending has become a great creative outlet for me, as well as something that helps reduce my stress levels- I can’t recommend it enough!

More and more of us would like to reduce our environmental impact, and one way to do that is to keep the clothing we already own for longer, and buy less.

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Learning to look after the garments you have is the first step to making them last. This is the perfect time of year to give your knitwear and winter wardrobe some love, and learn to mend it.

The first step to caring for it is knowing what it’s made of. Have a look at the care label to find out what fibre(s) it’s made of, and how best to clean it.

Fibres like wool are great, as they’ll need less washing (just air them unless they have dirt/ marks on them). If you have any holes or threadbare areas, consider visible mending as a fun way of repairing them and embracing their ageing process.

Here in the UK we’re now fully into Spring/ Summer.

This is the best time to look after your knitwear and repair it in my opinion, for several reasons.

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Image credit: Rose + Julien Ltd

You’re probably not wearing your knitwear as much just now, or you might even be putting it in storage for the summer. Before you put it away, make sure it’s clean (to avoid moths) and give it a check to see if it needs any repairs or reinforcement. As you’re less likely to be wearing it, you won’t miss it if it takes you a while to repair it!

This way, when you take it out again in the Autumn, it will be repaired ready to wear again, rather than looking sad when you want to wear it next. Working in good light is really important, so this is one of my main reasons for preferring to spend more time mending in summer. It allows you to see your work better, and it doesn’t put such a strain on your eyesight.

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daylight. Artificial light makes colours look different and it can throw me off my design. If you want to create a colourful creative repair make the most of the light at the moment.

Do you have sweaters that aren’t in need of repair, but you’re just tired of them? This is the time to get creative with them- why not customise them to change the design? Add embroidery, or swiss darn a new design onto them to look like it’s knitted in. You can use graph paper to plan your ideas (if using swiss darning), or sketch out some ideas for embroidery. Add motifs, tattoos, polka-dots, or embrace the abstract!

Personally, I find a few changes to a sweater I’ve had for years can make it feel new and exciting again. Just make the most of the longer and brighter daylight hours- it really does help with creativity, colour choices and will ensure your knitwear is ready to wear when you need it most.

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Image credit: Rose + Julien Ltd

summer. Before you put it away, make sure it’s clean (to avoid moths) and give it a check to see if it needs any repairs or reinforcement. As you’re less likely to be wearing it, you won’t miss it if it takes you a while to repair it!

Discover Collingwood Norris Design

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STANDING STILL WITH PHOTOGRAPHER SUSAN CASTILLO "Whether I am working with small independent designers or larger brands, my aim is always to create imagery that tells their story and captures their unique style."

Image credit: Susan Castillo

Introduced by SSEAMS Editor Diane Richardson Editing a magazine gives you the time to scout for talent and let's just say I found it when I met Glasgow based Susan Castillo who has created a unique identity around commercial still life photography.

Susan Castillo’s bold and graphic imagery derives from her in-depth understanding of objects and the important relationship they share with light, texture, colour and environment. From concept to completion her creative perspective and hands on approach is what sets her apart. Set design, styling, art direction and prop making are a huge part of the creative journey and a defining aspect of her imagery.

With the driving force behind Susan’s work, being the potential to continually challenge her own abilities, as well as the perception of still life and product photography.

SC - My professional career began in 2011 when I started working with small, independent designers and makers to bring their creative visions to life.

Shifting away from the traditional ‘crafty’ look. My aim was to create bold and dynamic imagery that truly captured the essence of the products and designs I was photographing.

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Having previously studied Design and Craft I quickly realised the importance it would have to my clients and how it would come to shape the way I work today. My involvement in every step of the process.

From ideation to prop making – has made me as much known for my set design and prop work as my photography. My images are crafted with care and consideration, I work closely with my clients, understanding their vision, and delivering imagery that showcases their products in the best possible light. Whether I am working with small independent designers or larger brands, my aim is always to create imagery that tells their story and captures their unique style.

Although my career has taken various paths, one constant remains – my passion for photographing well-crafted and considered design. Collaborating with individuals striving to produce better products is always exhilarating, and I enjoy the challenge of capturing their vision through my lens. susancastillo.co.uk Follow on Instagram

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Jess Elliott Dennison opens up her studio to chat to SSEAMS SSEAMS Editor, Diane and Jess of Elliott’s tend to catch up each issue and put the world to rights every time! Now, with a focus on Elliott's Studio, we hear what's on the menu for the year ahead...

Image credit: Elliott's

Words by Jess Elliott's celebrates simple cooking and life in the kitchen. It was created by myself, food writer Jess Elliott Dennison.

You’ll pick up loads of handy tips and tricks from my many years of cooking at Elliott’s, writing cookbooks, testing food columns and food styling for commercials and TV.

The Elliott’s Studio is a former newsagent that I carefully renovated to highlight the building’s original period features including the floorboards, fireplace, large butler sink, cornicing and a magnificent ceiling rose.

My lunch menu is accompanied by a welcome snack and cocktail, natural wine on the table, an exclusive recipe booklet and special seasonal gift.

Tickets are £85.

In the Studio, I write and test recipe commissions, host craft workshops and visit cookbook authors.

My work is inspired by the produce, colours, textures and rituals that each season brings and I have written 3 cookbooks, Salad Feasts, Tin Can Magic and Lazy Baking. My recipes have been featured in publications such as VOGUE, Homes and Interiors, Olive, TOAST and The Independent.

Each season, I host a series of cookery demonstrations in my Studio. The upcoming Summer Series is a 3 hour cookery demonstration Image credit: Elliott's lunch that takes you step by step through my Summer menu, using produce and flowers from my Summer Series Dates garden in the Scottish Borders and other local 22nd July suppliers. Tasting each course as you go, you will 29th July learn the skills required to recreate each dish in your 12th August own kitchen, including guidance on how to choose 13th August and use the best of Summer’s produce in your 20th August home cooking. elliottsedinburgh.com

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Image credit: Elliott's

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Find your calm by igniting mindful moments Introducing The Kindred Folk to the creatives burning the midnight...

Image credit: Nicole Lovell

The Kindred Folk is the creation of two kindred spirits, Maura and Jordan. It was an idea that was born from a true passion and desire to create a home fragrance brand that captured important moments of stillness and calm encapsulated in nature. Throughout their relationship, they have always loved spending time outdoors exploring the Scottish countryside. The tranquillity of nature has always allowed them to slow down, re-focus their minds and appreciate life without the unwanted distractions.

Maura and Jordan soon realised how they wanted to replicate this same feeling within their home, and so their mission was simple: to create candles inspired by nature, designed to support you in transforming your daily routines into mindful moments. In a world where everything is so fast paced, it’s never been more important to reconnect with nature, slow down and focus on enjoying your rituals.

The Kindred Folk products are lovingly handmade in Glasgow, creating home fragrances that are enriched with the finest ingredients. They are committed to only using ingredients that are safe to burn within your home.

Image credit: Nicole Lovell

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Image credit: Nicole Lovell

Their wax is a completely natural and sustainable blend of rapeseed and coconut wax which is free from paraffin, palm, beeswax and synthetic additives. The Kindred Folk candles are wicked, labelled, poured and packed by Maura and Jordan in small batches, and they have absolutely loved the process of developing and creating earth-friendly products for you to enjoy.

With nature in mind, The Kindred Folk are committed to being kind to our planet and being entirely plastic free, which is why, they have made environmentally conscious choices when selecting their ingredients, materials and packaging resources.

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The packaging materials are fully recyclable and biodegradable, and they are also passionate about minimising their carbon footprint by responsibly sourcing materials from local suppliers.

To shop their full collection of candles and botanical wax melts, you can visit their website: www.thekindredfolk.co.uk Instagram @thekindredfolk **SSEAMS Reader offer - The Kindred Folk are offering 20% discount code to new customers 'TKF20' which can be applied at checkout.

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HELLO SUFFOLK SSEAMS Features Editor, Emma Varsanyi is based between London and Suffolk since arriving back to the UK after a long career working in international sports brands.

Her mood is one of self discovery after 25 years of corporate culture. She has successfully taken up ceramic making in her spare time whilst running the day to day operations at SSEAMS. No longer working the long days and taking countless plane trips overseas, you can find her discovering makers & small businesses across the south east coat.

A few of her favourites over page...

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Image credit (this page): Yuki Sugiara for Pump Street Bakery

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VISUAL ARTIST SHOWCASE Interview by Emma Varsanyi

JULIE COCKBURN

Flare 4 2023 Hand embroidery on found photograph

Visual artist and creator

Julie Cockburn’s incredibly evocative collages are painstakingly created in her rural Suffolk studio and travel to new homes all over the world. Her creativity, innovation and elevation of found objects into high art is so important in a world weighed down by waste.

I met her by coincidence at the local pottery studio where she creates her ceramics. Once introduced to her work, I jumped at the chance to ask her if she’d like to be included in the magazine. Thankfully she agreed. She told us a little about her craft and shared some of her current favourite pieces.

Tell us about you.

I am a visual artist living in Suffolk, working with a wide range of materials to create hybrid, highly crafted collages. My practice is difficult to define, though in the past I have been described as a book artist, a sculptor and a photographer. I use all these monikers to explore the way we look at and interpret the plethora of images that surround us. I am represented by galleries in London, Brussels and Amsterdam.

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The Conundrum 2016 Hand embroidery on found photograph

What do you do and why?

I trained as a sculptor at Central Saint Martins art college in the 1990s and we were taught to use anything and everything as our materials – lack of funds meant that I spent a lot of time in charity shops and skip diving and it’s that way of working that continues in my practice today. I source old photographs, postcards and second-hand books from the internet or car boot fairs – found images that I alter using traditional techniques such as hand embroidery, painting, inlay and screen printing.

Each image has its own specific composition and colour that I respond to. Because I work on a found image (the antidote to starting with the proverbial ‘blank canvas’) I enter into a form of dialogue with it, responding to what I see in the original.

Composition is key. I work in a painterly way, I think, using shape, texture and colour to try to keep balance in the piece whilst at the same time engaging the viewer with humour or unease.

What inspires you?

The found images themselves always conjure up some emotion or feeling, but I also find inspiration in everyday things. My garden always amazes me, the transition of the seasons, light and colour.

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The old Spanish tourist postcards of stitched flamenco dancers are a long-time obsession, together with Japanese craftsmanship, mid-century furniture, Soviet era posters, Robert Rauschenberg, ikebana and cake decorating videos on Instagram.

What do you wear to work in?

I work from home in a small studio overlooking my garden. My practice isn’t generally a messy one – I tend to spend hours stitching an embroidered piece or cutting out and reassembling small fragments of photographs – so I don’t wear protective clothing. I pretty much always wear jeans and a warm, comfortable sweatshirt or jumper. I pad around the house in my black Birkenstock Arizona’s. Nothing glamorous.

What’s next?

It’s a busy time for me. I’m currently working towards a solo exhibition at Hopstreet Gallery in Brussels in November 2023, together with some other group shows and art fairs in Suffolk, Amsterdam and Paris. I have recently started to work at a ceramic studio and I’m experimenting with integrating pottery into my photographic and collage works: It’s important to keep moving one’s practice forwards.

Image credits: Julie Cockburn

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The Welder 2019 Hand embroidery on found photograph

Follow on Instagram Juliecockburn.com

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When in...

SUFFOLK

Pump Street Bakers and Chocolate makers: A passion for flavour and commitment to ethical trading Image credit: Yuki Sugiara

By Emma Varsanyi We were very excited to talk to Joanna Brennan, co-founder of the wonderful Pump Street bakers and chocolate makers. We know some of you are based in this part of the world and if you haven't been, it's time to make a visit! Pump Street creates innovative and ethical products that combine the best of their expertise in baking and single origin chocolate making, all from their rural base in Orford in Suffolk. Delicious!

EV: Tell us about you?

At Pump Street, we are Bakers and Chocolate makers based in the village of Orford in Suffolk's Heritage Coast. After mastering naturally-leavened bread over a couple of years when we opened in 2010, we ventured into making craft chocolate from beans we import directly from single estates and cooperatives around the world, from bean to bar.

Today our bakery shop and chocolate shop in the village of Orford sell our bread, pastries and chocolate, and we also sell our chocolate online and via fine food retailers across the UK and Internationally.

As Co-Founder of the business with my father Chris, and Director, I am committed to ensuring we are building a business that our team and suppliers ISSUE 004

can all be proud of. We strive to make something unique and delicious in an ethical way, and to bring joy and delight to our customers. I live between Suffolk and London with my husband Simon and our two boys, and when I am not immersed in Pump Street (which I am most of the time) I love being with my boys, cooking, entertaining and gardening.

EV: What do you do?

As both Bakers and Chocolate Makers we are dedicated to making directly-traded single farm chocolate and using our chocolate in our baked goods, and vice versa - our baked goods in our chocolate, to create innovative new bars.

This is a particularly exciting world for us to explore, and these Bakery Series bars have proved to be our most popular - the Croissant bar we launched last year, for instance, has quickly become a bestseller.

EV: What’s important to you?

I think it's really important to understand and respect the work that goes into growing the cacao

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Image credit: Yuki Sugiara

we use. We only trade with small farmers and estates with whom we have a direct relationship.

All our chocolate bars are labelled on the front with not only the country of origin but also the region and the farm name. This means that our customers have access to our commitment to traceability and benefit from the breadth of the flavours that are available in chocolate of different varieties and from different regions. We want to make chocolate that is exciting, indulgent and satisfying.

EV: What are you passionate about?

I am passionate about flavour. I think that one of life's greatest pleasures is the enjoyment of our favourite foods and the discovery of new ones.

Furthermore, food and flavour are markers in peoples' lives, taking part in their daily rituals and special occasions. I really enjoy when I meet our customers who have integrated what we do into their lives - whether that's as their morning toast, their wedding pastries or special late night chocolate indulgence. It makes me feel like we are making something that has meaning for people.

But I also love trying new foods and seeing people trying new things. Giving people the opportunity to try the whole breadth of chocolate flavours out there, from different origins, is a real privilege.

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In our fast-paced, digitally overexposed world, there are fewer and fewer truly novel things, but to taste a single origin chocolate bar for the first time is something that cannot easily be recreated.

EV: What does a rural lifestyle mean to you?

A rural lifestyle to me means connectedness. Being part of the local community, knowing people and families around you and coming together at important moments through the year. It also means a closeness to the land and understanding directly our relationship with the soil, the weather, crops, farming and wildlife.

EV: What’s next?

We are continually evolving - so it's hard to say for sure! But at the moment we are working on some new packaging which will be even more environmentally friendly than our current compostable packaging, so we are really excited about that. There will be a couple of new bars in the next few months as well, so look out for those.

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ISSUE DIRECTORY & THANK YOU TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS CLICK TO VIEW

KIMONO MY HOUSE

NO.25 SSEAMS WORKS

TRAKKE

BRISBANE MOSS

FINNIESTON CLOTHING

JOHNNY SZYMANSKI

SSEAMSWORKS

GORDON NICOLSON

WORKHOUSE ENGLAND

HALLEY STEVENSONS

IRREGULAR SLEEP PATTERN

COURTNEY & CO

SACCADE

SAMUEL BINSTEAD

PEREGRINE

SEAHAWK APPAREL

HAWICO SCOTLAND

COLLINGWOOD-NORRIS

6876

ELLIOTTS EDINBURGH

&SONS

THE KINDRED FOLK

KIRI

JULIE COCKBURN

PATRIAM

PUMP STREET BAKERY

UNCOMMON LIFE STORE

CALUM HUNTINGTON

HOOS

TRICKERS

GOOD STORY

SUSAN CASTILLO

SPOILED LIFE

RICH HALL

HD WOOL

LIND & LIME GIN

DUNNET BAY DISTILLERS

DRYAD

YARMOUTH OILSKINS

LOULLY MAKES DESIGNS

AND, TO OUR READERS, WE HOPE YOU ENJOY LEARNING A LITTLE FROM THESE TRAILBLAZERS! ISSUE 004

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