IN THIS ISSUE
PAGE 5
EDITOR’S LETTER
Welcome
PAGE 6
ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM
Introducing the SSEAMS Columnists
PAGE 8
STYLE MOVES
PAGE 9
CWT - MADE IN LEICESTER
PAGE 11
TENTER - ISSUE NEWCOMER
PAGE 14
LAW DESIGN STUDIO’S NEW COLLECTION
PAGE 18
OUTFIT NARRATIVE
PAGE 20
FRANCLI CRAFTWEAR - FOR THE LOVE OF THE OUTDOORS
PAGE 23
INTRODUCING CARMEL KING’S COLUMN - BEHIND THE SCENES
PAGE 26
INTRODUCING STEVE DUKE, THE FACTORY NEXT DOOR’S NEW COLUMN - FACTORY TALK
PAGE 27
JOHAN GREYLING, SCOTTISH BASED PHOTOGRAPHER TAKES HIS NEW COLUMN
PAGE 28
KEEPING LEATHER CRAFT ALIVE BY BEORMA LEATHER COMPANY
PAGE 30 THE WORLD OF WOODMANCOTE RETRO
PAGE 33
CONTENT CREATION BY NEW COLUMNIST SAM GRADY
Image credits: Front cover & this page - Thank you Outfit Narrative
WELCOME TO THE SUMMER ISSUE!
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Hello and welcome to issue 006! Just in time for summer to arrive hopefully! We have spent the last few months observing the creative set around the Uk and hand picked a small margin of talented brands and makers helping you create the lifestyle you desire
Whether its for wearing, using or experiencing we aim to have you covered! Not only that, for the first time we have shaped the magazine to house a selection of SSEAMS columnists! What do they have in common? The easy answer is an abundance of talent! Industry experts with their eye on market relevance and a generous spirit directed toward slow pace, style and appreciation for design and quality
Taking front cover is the founder of Outfit Narrative, Suzan, whose ultimate goal is, ‘to help you understand how intentionally buying well made garments will help you build a quality and timeless wardrobe that should last you a lifetime’ We couldn’t put it better ourselves!
Enjoy the issue!
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Thankyoutoourfeatureeditors,columnists,and photographersforsupportingthisissue-without you,wewouldsimplyhaveemptypages
SSEAMS FEATURES & EDITORIAL COLUMNISTS
CARMEL KING
Carmel King has spent the last decade documenting British craft and industry, shooting in over hundred factories and workshops across the country. She is passionate about capturing natural images of people at work, celebrating the craftsmanship and processes 'behind the scenes'. Carmel is also a published Author/Producer of Made in London capturing fifty workshops and factories around the capital - published by Merrell. She shoots regularly for The Times and other editorial magazines.
ANNETTE EVANS
Annette Evans is an apparel designer and design consultant with over 25 years of experience in the fashion industry, designing and leading design teams for notable global brands, including Nike; Head; Timberland and Under Armour. Having lived in London; Paris; Hong Kong; India and Denmark, Annette returned to the east coast of Suffolk in 2020 where she now continues to design; write and focus on her art. Annette’s philosophy behind Idle Thoughts is to slow down, unclutter the mind and allow the creativity to flow.
JOHAN GREYLING
Johan Greyling is a creative photographer and video maker based in Scotland, originally from the vibrant landscapes of South Africa. His extensive travels across more than 30 countries have enriched his understanding of diverse cultures, infusing his work with authenticity. Johan seamlessly blends photography and videography, telling captivating stories through his keen eye and creative vision. Johan is part of the Studio SSEAMS team capturing content for brands in and around the content creation room in Fife.
PETER GALLAGHER WITHAM
Peter Gallagher-Witham is a fashion industry veteran with a Master of Design from the Royal College of Art. With leadership roles at brands like Nike, Under Armour, and Lacoste, Peter has made his mark as a designer and creative director. His career has taken him around the world, from Japan, Hong Kong, USA and back to the UK, bringing a wealth of international experience and valuable perspectives. In response to the changing fashion landscape and the rise of AI and digital technology, Peter co-founded The Fashion Guild. This vibrant platform is all about connecting fashion professionals who want to learn, share, and stay ahead of the curve.
STUDIO SSEAMS/INDEPENDENT PUBLISHING HOUSE
SSEAMS magazine shines a spotlight on UK progressive independent brands and makers who are reshaping our future. Independently published in Scotland.
DISCLAIMER
STEVE DUKE
Journalist Steve Duke is host of The Factory Next Door podcast. On it, he criss-crosses Britain meeting the people making our greatest products. Previously, Steve was the BBC’s senior economics producer, working on shows including The 10 O’Clock News and R4’s The Today programme. Steve has devised marketing campaigns for clients including HSBC, Mastercard, AstraZeneca, and KPMG.
SAM GRADY
Sam Grady is a portrait, lifestyle and brand narrative photographer based in Whitstable. Documenting life has always fascinated him and he takes his craft into the lives of people and their work. Sam features Dering Studio for this issue and demonstrates his skills through the craftsmanship of the making process.
OLIVIA GARTLEY
Olivia is a freelance food stylist and recipe writer with over 10 years industry experience. Working with clients as diverse as Häagen-Dazs, Costa Coffee and supermarkets including Waitrose, Co-op and Aldi she specialises in delicious, seasonal recipes and food for photography that's good enough to eat.
NINA FALK
Nina is passionate about simple, elegant design solutions. She has spent 20 years in the fashion and textiles industry crafting a deep understanding of the resource effect of production and design techniques. Nina’s knowledge extends outside of just traditional manufacturing and Nina has regularly applied her design principles to projects and products outside of the norm. Nina is co-founder of KC Manufacturing. Nina will be sharing opinion from the other side of the table!
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IN THIS ISSUE
PAGE 37
INTRODUCING NEW COLUMNIST ANNETTE EVANS WITH IDLE THOUGHTS
PAGE 38
FRAN LEE INTRODUCES FLORISH
PAGE 39
NINA FALK INTRODUCES HER NEW COLUMN, FROM THE FLOOR
PAGE 40
KEITH GRAY SHARES THE GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART FASHION SHOW HIGHLIGHTS
PAGE 41
PETER GALLAGHER WITHAM WRITES ‘DID AI JUST BECOME SPOOKY?’
PAGE 43
OLIVIA GARTLEY’S NEW COLUMN, OLIVIA’S KITCHEN - ZEST UP YOUR SUMMER RECIPE!
PAGE 44
MEET THE MAKER - LONDON BOROUGH OF JAM
PAGE 45
SUMMER HAS LANDED AT TAYMOUTH MARINA
PAGE 46
SCOOPING THE WINS WITH MILK & HONEY
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Style Moves
SSEAMS represents a community of brand aficionados united in appreciation for quality and durable, well made products We celebrate all of the passionate and hard working creatives and emerging brands that we have the privilege to meet and collaborate with
They bring innovative ideas and they pursue making them a reality with tenacity and vision They are aware of their impact on the planet and it informs everything they do. They are working hard, supporting each other and learning every day
Up first is CWT, the Leicester based apparel brand gets a well deserved spot in this issue Founded in the 60's and brought up to date through the generations to produce premium garments they are proud to put their name to
TENTER takes newcomer spot - we love their aesthetic! Local Glasgow based designer Gillian Law tells us about the new LAW Design Studio collection First timer to SSEAMS, we welcome Outfit Narrative editing and curating timeless style in their own beautiful way Thank you for taking the front cover Suzan! We are delighted to feature a brand we’ve had our eye on for some time - Francli Craftwear, simply beautiful! We also welcome Keith Gray, Fashion Design lecturer from The Glasgow School of Art to share highlights from the Degree showcase - names to watch out for in the future of fashion!
SSEAMS magazine believes that these inspiring brands and individuals make the world of what we wear a better place We talked to a select few
Featuring CWT (left image)
CWT
PROUDLY & RESPONSIBLY MADE IN LEICESTER
Since the 1960’s CWT has manufactured clothing in Leicester, it started in a shed and grew into a community of skilled makers from the city, breathing heart and soul into what makes CWT today run by Karandeep Mattu who has taken on the good work his Grandfather and father did before him.
Apparel Moves brand spotlight feature by Diane Richardson We know only too well the challenges in future proofing UK garment manufacturing and we congratulate you on the moves you are making. Tell us about CWT and your plans to grow the brand?
We’re a third generation owned factory specialising in premium lifestyle wear working with the best fabrics possible Over many decades we’ve developed the knowledge of how to craft the best possible clothes against the backdrop of a world that strives for quicker, cheaper and demands more and more That’s not us That’s not what we know That’s not how we do things Making the best quality products runs in our DNA, it’s an intentional choice, to look back at our past to craft for our future
Today CWT stands for more than just the clothes it makes, it’s a mindset We choose what we do and how we do it for ourselves, our community and you, it’s intentional Everything we make is within a 6 mile radius of our factory, making iconic, premium everyday essentials, where every stitch, thread and fibre has purpose We believe clothing can shape our
“Our mission is to reshape the narrative of the fast fashion past associated with Leicester, uniting existing brands together and inspiring a new generation of makers in the city.”
future by being made to be worn day in day out without compromising style, fit or feel, season after season of wear, that way it intentionally reduces our impact on the planet.
We’re currently working on our latest drop of Supima cotton and organic cotton jersey wear for summer including; shorts, zip sweaters and a range of t-shirts, made intentionally
Shop the CWT line; cwtstorecom Insta; CWT
Image credits: Jim Marsden | @jimmarsdenphotography
Art Direction: Jeffrey Bowman | @mrbowlegs
TENTER
ONE TO WATCH
Newly launched independent clothing brand 'Tenter' takes a refined and detailed-oriented approach to utility clothing to create a look of quiet luxury with identical pieces for men and women.
Introduced by Editor, Diane Richardson
The people behind the brand are husband and wife team Dan Witchell and Michelle Anderson Dan is a multi-faceted designer who works in branding and Michelle has spent her career on the business side of design agencies. It was when they pooled their resources to build a sustainable home in South East London (RIBA House of the Year nominated) they recognised they had the complimentary skills to bring the brand to life
The modular collection has been designed so all 8 pieces can be worn together, plus a market tote to complete the look The collection is designed around modern living with details designed to delight the customer - hip pockets to shirts, two way zips on jackets, cinch pull to trousers and carpenter pockets on skirts
Image credit: Isabelle Junge
A huge influence on the brand’s aesthetic is mod culture In recognition of the equality of the genders within the sub culture - where women used fashion to express their emerging sense of freedom - the styles for men and women are the same allowing customers to size up or down according to their body type We considered creating a truly gender neutral brand but we ran into difficulties with sizing, said Dan Witchell
Because of our tailored approach we came to the conclusion that for the fits we wanted to achieve, the traditional approach of men and women’s patterns was best for the customer - to give them an anchor for which size to choose However, we encourage our customers to switch sizing across genders allowing them to find a fit that works for them
The name Tenter references the traditional frame used to stretch and dry fabric This spawned the phrase ‘on tenterhooks’ - a state of nervous or excited anticipation which Dan and Michelle felt perfectly describes the creative tension that the different influences have on their approach to designing clothes
Tenter are committed to producing in the most sustainable way possible but acknowledge this is a complicated area First and foremost their clothes are made to last. The pieces have been manufactured in India using fully audited factories and using Better Cotton Tenter garment bags are fully biodegradable, home and industrially compostable, recyclable and marine friendly. Delivery bags are made in Lincolnshire and are repurposed potato sacks sewn at the base - strong enough to reuse time and time again
Tenter has kindly offered SSEAMS readers a 20% discount Shop the collection and use SSEAMS20 discount code; tentercouk
Social: tenter official
Image credit: Isabelle Junge
Image credit: Isabelle Junge
Image credit: Courtney Gordon
Changing seasons with Gillian Law
The Spring/Summer shoot felt a bit different this year I stood at the side of the studio watching the models and photographers do their thing and I felt quite proud at what I had achieved. There is definitely a lot of chaos before a shoot, and sometimes it isn't until the actual day that you feel like everything comes together
I have worked with Otago Street Collective since the beginning and as both our businesses evolve and grow, I can see how we compliment each other perfectly This shoot was my favourite to date as we used dancers Aya Kobayashi and Gwynne Bilski. They moved effortlessly in the clothes and the dynamic between them both was perfect
Words by LAW Design Studio founder Gillian Law View the collection >> lawdesignstudio com
Image credits: Otago Street Collective
WELCOME TO MY WORLD
Words by Founder Suzan
Over the last couple of years my perspective on style, clothing, how we present ourselves and what we consume changed drastically When I get interested in something I have to learn more about it as fast as I can.
And one of these situations happened a few years ago when I wanted to find the perfect jeans I discovered quality Japanese selvedge denim and fell into that rabbit hole. This is what started my passion for quality made goods that will stand the test of time And a few years later I decided to start sharing my enthusiasm for well made goods as well as my ideas on how to style different materials and colours to create timeless looks – this is how Outfit Narrative came to life
Timeless style has a big influence on how I perceive clothing and I spend a lot of time researching and reading about the impact of certain clothing throughout history and how certain garments should fit to achieve effortless elegance.
I style outfits into clear and visually appealing compositions so people can easily visualise the whole look and post
them daily on my Instagram. I’ve seen the impact these well put together outfits have – some find them inspirational, some make better choices and others just save time while deciding what to put together. I also talk about proper fit of clothing and why it can make or break a good outfit My focus is on brands that produce quality made garments and prioritise workers and their work environment
With my background in architecture, design and branding I was able to merge my skills with my passion for style and quality made garments and showcase that on Outfit Narrative Instagram account This led me to some very interesting opportunities in the menswear world
In my work I focus on brand communication and visual direction, so when I research garments for my outfits I often notice how brands lack clarity when it comes to their online presence From not providing enough useful information about their history, production and product details to failing to create positive user experience There is also a disconnect between who these brands are and what they communicate on their social media.
Many brands have high quality products but struggle to style and present them in a way that attracts attention and highlights materials, details and fit Lately I have been approached by stores and brands to help them style campaigns and photoshoots, and properly showcase their products. That’s why one of my goals is to continue working in menswear to help brands and stores improve their communication and create more meaningful and relatable campaigns
“With Outfit Narrative and my work I want to inspire people to buy less but better quality and help other like minded men improve their style.”
outfitnarrative com
FOR THE LOVE OF THE OUTDOORS
The story behind Francli craftwear
Introduced by Diane Richardson
In 2013 two like-minded makers, Ali and Franki had an idea They wanted to live by the sea, and use their combined talents to make things by hand –and so Francli Craftwear was born Driven by the wild landscapes and creative spirit of Cornwall, together they crafted collections of function-led workwear, tools and accessories for rural-based craftspeople, completely handmade with repurposed materials
These mindfully crafted goods help establish the Francli name into a brand associated with wellmade, well-loved and lasting products Stepping back in 2016, Franki headed off to new pastures, while Ali paved the way for Francli’s next chapter And now, the workshop is as bustling as ever, a place where great relationships with customers thrive, open process and purpose-led design leads the way and a strong Spotify playlist or two powers us along.
Now, even though they’ve cut, stitched and created hundreds of one-off items for contented
customers, the original vision still remains true – to live by the sea and make things by hand And we’re happy to say, they’re still doing just that
“ROOTED IN A LOVE OF THE OUTDOORS AND A PASSION FOR MAKING THINGS BY HAND.”
This collection of timeless canvas and leather goods are a tribute to the mills, tanneries and forges of the British Isles Full grain oak bark tanned saddlery leather from Devon with a history that dates back to Roman times Crinkly fresh dry waxed canvas from Scotland that’s importantly fluro-carbon free Sumptuous and fully traceable deer hide from a tannery in Northamptonshire on a mission to make leather regenerative
Proudly designed and made in Cornwall
Image credit: James Bannister
BEHIND THE SCENES
By SSEAMS Columnist Carmel King [Carmel King Photography]
Carmel King has spent the last decade documenting British craft and industry, shooting in over hundred factories and workshops across the country. She is passionate about capturing natural images of people at work, celebrating the craftsmanship and processes 'behind the scenes' Carmel is also a published Author/Producer of Made in London capturing fifty workshops and factories around the capital - published by Merrell She shoots regularly for The Times and other editorial magazines Additionally, Carmel has collaborated with Councils throughout the UK and London Metropolitan University, creating "Visual Audits of Industry
My personal connection to British manufacturing runs deep My family owned a three-generation textiles firm, founded at the turn of the twentieth century in the north of England The fascination with mills and machinery is ingrained in me, sparked by the old imagery of the production lines and the sketchbooks and archives of my ancestors This familial heritage and my own research have shaped my passion for documenting British factories.
Over the past decade I have travelled extensively, photographing factories throughout the UK I have captured the people, processes and places behind the scenes of these idiosyncratic workspaces In an era of rapid AI and technological advancements; I believe it’s crucial to document these environments that are still full of people and hands at work. British industry is in a state of flux and is poised to undergo significant transformations in the coming decades, making this documentation all the more vital
Whenever I visit a factory the predominant feeling is one of pride – these workers have often dedicated a lifetime to honing a specific skill I feel that dedication to a craft should be captured and revered. On my travels, I’ve seen spectacular and everyday objects being made, hair raising processes that would make a health and safety officer wince and the mundanity of a 24/7 production line. Workers are always surprised at my fascination, ‘How can you make this look interesting?’ is a phrase I hear a lot, but it is always a privilege to see how and where people work, and I love capturing natural portraits of people, as they are.
I was delighted to be asked to contribute a regular column to SSEAMS and I look forward to sharing images from the factory floor each month. Some of these photos will be taken from Made in London, a book I created with Mark Brearley, Professor of Urbanism at London Metropolitan University and Proprietor of Kaymet Trays, published by Merrell. The book features stories from fifty workshops and factories across the capital, making boat propellers, vinyl records, ballet shoes, denim jeans, bicycles and much more
Imagecredits:CarmelKingPhotography
Draper of Glastonbury
The images this month are from Draper of Glastonbury, established in 1937 This area of Somerset is traditionally the centre of the UK’s sheepskin industry dating back a thousand years Four generations of the Draper family have run the business and they are now the oldest manufacturers of sheepskin footwear in Britain They specialise in high quality sheepskin slippers, boots, gloves and accessories and their designs are sold throughout the world Many generations of the same local families have worked in their factory and traditional methods are still used to make their products
I am currently working on Made in Gloucester and have plans for Made in Birmingham I look forward to adding to adding to this series and creating a visual and historical record of British manufacturing at the cusp of technological
change The archive is a celebration of the communities and network of factories and the skills, expertise and innovation this country offers.
wwwcarmelkingcom @carmelkingphoto - all image credits
E A MS R ECO
PODCAST FACTORY TALK
When the end is the beginning
By SSEAMS Columnist Steve Duke [The Factory
Next Door Podcast Presenter & Journalist]
A few summers ago, I was standing outside a chicken takeaway shop in Leeds when I realised I needed to do more to support British manufacturing Where others saw a menu of chicken delights, all I saw was loss
Let me go back a couple of decades to explain further At the end of the 90s I graduated from the University of Leeds My journalism degree got me a job in a call centre Determined to look sharp whilst taking abuse from irate callers, I took out a credit card and went to the local tailor’s shop Keith Wilson was the owner, and, thanks to my freshly printed credit card, he made me a bespoke blue pinstripe suit
When I slipped on my jacket, I absorbed a love of British craft that has remained rooted within me Eventually my career began to build I moved to London and, specialising in economics and business, worked for the BBC’s flagship news programmes including The 10 O’Clock News and R4’s Today programme
I was always on the lookout for interesting manufacturers to feature in our news reports, though
stories about businesses moving production abroad became increasingly common ‘Job losses’ was a phrase I used a lot
After leaving the BBC, I worked with some of our biggest companies, creating communications and marketing campaigns for them That’s until I found myself standing outside that chicken takeaway shop in Leeds It was supposed to be a glorious return I imagined walking back into Keith’s tailoring shop, wearing the jacket he had made for me all those years ago, and him instantly recognising – not me – but his craftsmanship No such luck Just a cartoon chicken staring at me
Of course, Keith may have retired But even if that was the case (and he must have earnt his golden years by then) his shop had still vanished off our high street, and presumably, Keith’s skills were not passed on to a new generation That’s why I felt the loss A thriving domestic manufacturing industry matters It’s about ensuring skills do not die It’s about maintaining a wide spectrum of career paths It’s about consuming things more
sustainably It’s about boosting the levelling up agenda
Standing outside that takeaway shop I resolved to do something The Factory Next Door was born that day - a podcast that celebrates our manufacturers by compiling a list of the greatest things we make here
These days I travel across Britain visiting factories And I always end up loving the people I meet They are usually open, honest, and passionate
In my column I will share some of the personal stories that are welded, woven, and boiled into products that are admired around the world I will also reflect on some of the trends we are seeing across our manufacturing sector
Whilst not ignoring the challenges our makers face, this column will be a hopeful one More positivity, optimism, and definitely less peri-peri chicken
The Factory Next Door is available on Apple, Spotify, Amazon and all major podcast streaming services.
CREATING CONTENT IN SCOTLAND
By Johan Greyling, Photographer and SSEAMS Columnist
South African born and bred with a career spanning pretty much every continent in the world and now based in Scotland with my family, I will be showing you visuals from progressive brands in Scotland.
Never underestimate Instagram for doing business! A chance ‘swipe’ earlier this year brought me to meeting the team at Studio SSEAMS who partnered up with Fife based apparel & textile manufacturer, KC Manufacturing at a very convenient time for me I was shown what they called the ‘end room’ and the rest is history
After a review of the 1000 sq ft room; space checks, ceiling height, natural lighting and areas designated for campaign shoots to e-commerce product photography sessions, we are now inviting brands to hire the space! It’s great news for the out-of-towners centrally located in Fife and equally perfect for brands already doing business in Scotland to make their products and get their content produced at the same time
In fact, clients are encouraged to get out of their own four walls eliminating the daily noise and utilise the perfect space for their photography and film requirements
And the best bit for me if you need a local photographer on location? I get to work with really interesting brands across all sectors and excited to help you achieve your aspirations to support your brand marketing goals My column over the coming issues will highlight all the progressive brands moving around Scotland in 2024 and beyond
KEEPING LEATHER CRAFT ALIVE
The story behind Beorma Leather Company
What continues to surprise (and excite) us at SSEAMS is when we meet the people behind the brands we put a spotlight on. Nothing can be taken for granted especially when it comes to how and why each founder starts their business and this one is no different, well, you wouldn’t have waged a bet on it...
Alex Simpson is the founder of Beorma leather company Did you start life in the industry? Not by a long shot but through his career he was introduced to a material he clearly fell in love with
Alex, tell us how you started the company?
In May 2022, I returned home from my 9th trip to the Middle East, excited but wildly unprepared for the imminent arrival of our first child, Jake. After a 15-year career in bomb disposal, working in some of the most incredible places and with the most outstanding people around the world, this was like stepping off a cliff while blindfolded. The years spent overseas were filled with challenges and moments that tested every fibre of my being, but none of this had prepared me for the year ahead.
Whilst I loved my career in Her Majesty’s Armed Forces, I had always held a deep-rooted desire and passion for working with leather. I spent most of my free time drawing up patterns and dreaming of a peaceful life back home in England, creating unique bags and leather goods that would last for generations.
Within 2 weeks of stepping off the plane and a firm deadline of Jake’s arrival looming, I had put together a small workshop and got to work.
Where was the turning point from the workshop to launching Beorma?
It was at this exact moment I read about the upcoming closure of a 4 generation old company in the heart of Walsall, England Walsall is a town steeped in a rich history of leatherwork and has been the epicentre of this craft in the UK since the 16th century As a child, I had visited the leather museum here and was fascinated by the tools and talent on display. However, as the local economy faced unprecedented challenges, many cherished factories were forced to shut their doors, leaving a void in our proud tradition
The idea filled me with more sadness than I would ever have anticipated and it was at this point that the seed of Beorma was planted I decided to take the leap to create something bigger than I had ever imagined It was in the face of this adversity that I made a choice, I couldn’t let the incredible talent of these wonderful artisans be dispersed and potentially lost forever.
Who is Beorma?
Beorma is not just a company; it is a testament to resilience, a celebration of heritage, and a dedication to the artisans who breathe life into leather We’ve embarked on a journey to keep the legacy of Walsall’s leather craft alive, and we’re
Image credit: Beorma
here to share our passion, our craftsmanship, and our commitment to those values with you
Tell us about the leather?
Quality and sustainability is at the core of everything we do We pride ourselves on crafting exceptional leather goods using only the finest materials sourced from the best tanneries around the world. We believe in working with tanneries that share our values, prioritising ethical practices and environmental responsibility We carefully select our leathers, ensuring they meet the highest standards, while also minimising our impact on the planet
“Where every piece we create is a story waiting to be told, an embodiment of generations of dedication and love for the art of leather.”
Our range of exquisite leathers are sourced from tanneries renowned for their craftsmanship and commitment to sustainability. Our full grain vegetable-tanned leathers age beautifully over time to and are produced through environmentally friendly processes, we prioritise materials that not only look and feel exceptional but will last a lifetime. By choosing Beorma Leather Company, you can trust that every product we create is made with the utmost care and consideration for both quality and sustainability.
View Beorma here; beormaleathercompanycom
Image credits: Beorma
THE WORLD OF WOODMANCOTE RETRO
Woodmancote Retro is a sustainable furniture design company based in Stroud who have a passion for creating beautiful, functional, simple, and timeless furniture that is accessible to all. Andy and Catherine, set up Woodmancote Retro seven years ago in a shed at the bottom of their garden
Tell us about the business?
From the garden shed, we moved into a workshop above a tiny brewery in Uley, Gloucestershire, and then finally into a former stable block. The name of the company derives from the road we used to live on and was where we set the business up
We initially started our furniture business as a means of making additional money to supplement other jobs, with young kids, funds were low Originally, to make additional income, we visited auctions and redundant schools, buying, and selling mid-century furniture in our spare time During this period, we stumbled across mid-century science lab stools with moulded plastic seats, liked their form and repurposed them with hand-made iroko seats, the wood being salvaged and saved from going into landfill
What really bothered us at the time of setting up our business, was the amount of good quality materials, such as iroko, that were going into
landfill and is why we started using this wood Combined with countless, mass-manufactured pieces of furniture, made in China, with little regard or respect for the environment, made from poor quality materials, that after a few years go into landfill, we felt compelled to do something about it and our brand was born
The original stools we sold with reclaimed iroko seats were incredibly popular and soon we started finding it hard to source these second-hand science lab stools We therefore sourced a fabricator and asked if they would make similar stools, but in bright colours rather than the generic black and grey.
This they did, and over time we evolved the design, adapting the form of the original stool, making the frames thinner for a more aesthetic and ergonomic look, and this is when our business took off
Very soon we were designing other furniture pieces based on the simplistic mid-century utilitarian aesthetic, (based on the principle of the stool) first with a table, then benches, low stools, trestle tables, high tables, and coffee tables, with many other exciting new products now in the pipeline. (The Poppy and Monty range are named after our two children)
Opulence and waste are simply things we do not abide by. This is the key reason why we started to use 100% recycled plastic, not to mention, locally sourced sustainable timbers and plant-based wood oils to our furniture range Our furniture is designed from a
Image credit: Catherine Cunningham
perspective that its simple mid-century form does not go out of date Instead, it remains classic and timeless as we hope, like Ercol, our pieces will remain cherished and loved and passed down through generations
Our pledge as a company is to source materials, make and design our furniture pieces within a 100- mile radius of our HQ, using small local manufacturers, artisan makers/joiners and reclaimed sustainable locally sourced wood or recycled materials in all our furniture designs
By doing all that we do, we aim to help keep the local economy stay alive, keep our carbon footprint down and adhere to the principles of the circular economy This we do by designing simple modular furniture that is totally recyclable, and in the process abstaining from potential landfill and harm to the planet
“Our
O N T E N T
C O N N E C T I O N S
Documenting life has always fascinated me and as a kid I was always interested in photography, more specifically, memories and photos of family
SAM GRADY
There was also one book that had a huge impact on me, a Time Life annual book of photography stories that was both shocking and fascinating These photographs carried a narrative, some of which, as a viewer, you had to add your own imagination The photos were little slices of time that would make me feel something, they would be emotive Now, many years since those days, I am the one making the photographs, capturing those moments for personal and commercial purposes with the desire to hopefully make the viewer feel something about them.
My name is Sam Grady and I am a portrait, lifestyle and brand narrative photographer Having been asked by SSEAMS to feature some highlights I chose Dering Studio Their craftsmanship is outstanding which made the shoot so enjoyable
LOCATION SHOOT - DERING STUDIO >>
Dering Studio is run by craftsman Ben Wheeler and apprentice Myles Whalley They are small batch furniture designers/makers working in Kent
Words by Ben: Our workshop is located on the estate of C14th Godinton House The former stables have been converted to workshops & studios so we’re fortunate to work here alongside potters and artists It's a really creative community which we feel very grateful to be a part of Our furniture takes inspiration from many styles; there’s a mid-century influence, maybe a bit of art deco but it comes together as a modern aesthetic
We embrace modern methods of construction and tools but equally we love traditional hand tools and finishing There's always an emphasis on handmade whatever we doRather than staining our furniture we prefer to employ techniques like fuming & ebonising to enhance the beauty of the timber Making everything from scratch from small one-off commissions to fully bespoke real wood kitchens
Image credit: Sam Grady
“We embrace modern methods of construction and tools but equally we love traditional hand tools and finishing.”
Dering Studio - deringstudio com
and lifestyle photographer based in
Kent, UK “I generally photograph people and the things they do or make within their businesses I like to think my images have a certain calmness to them, not too showy, as it were ” samgrady co uk
Shot by Sam Grady
Portrait
Whitstable,
IDLE
THOUGHTS
By SSEAMS Columnist Annette Evans
Annette Evans is an apparel designer and design consultant with over 25 years of experience in the fashion industry, designing and leading design teams for notable global brands, including Nike; Head; Timberland and Under Armour
Having lived in London; Paris; Hong Kong; India and Denmark, Annette returned to the east coast of Suffolk in 2020 where she now continues to design; write and focus on her art
Annette’s philosophy behind Idle Thoughts is to slow down, unclutter the mind and allow the creativity to flow
IDLE THOUGHTS
Thinking back, it was a very different time 1997 - the New Labour Government came into power amidst the Cool Britannia scene; the Spice Girls powered their way into the global Pop arena; and Harry Potter and The Philosopher’s Stone was published The Eurostar to Paris departed from Waterloo Station
With my brother and best friend to wave me off, I pushed my luggage trolley stacked high with cases, duvet and cd cassette player along the platform to my designated carriage and seat I was to start my new job on the Avenue Hoche, off the Arc De Triomphe on Monday. My somewhat cavalier, gung-ho attitude was a benefit when making these bold moves My French was only GCSE level; I knew no one; and to be honest, I probably wasn’t really experienced enough for the role - however, I loved Paris!
I moved into my first apartment 2 weeks after my arrival It was a mezzanine studio apartment on the top floor of a converted 17th century farmhouse; floor to standard ceiling height windows with a Juliette balcony; small kitchenette; half size bathtub; and a mattress under the skylight to sleep beneath the stars
It was on Cite Popincourt; off the Boulevard Richard Lenoir, between Le Bastille and Oberfampf in the 11th arrondissement There was a bakery on the corner for my daily bread; a laundrette a few buildings along for my ritual Sunday laundry day; and twice weekly the freshest food market on the Boulevard It was a feast for the senses As much as I loved it, there later arose an opportunity to move to one of the most prestigious addresses in Paris, The Place des Vosges, in the heart of the Ma i Q t
How could I not! Set amongst the rafters, my studio apartment had a small window to let the light in and in its modesty overlook the historic, oldest square in Paris Victor Hugo had lived here, and somewhere in a lower floor grand apartment, Alexander McQueen was creating his magic
The Franc was the currency until 1st January 2002 Parisiennes were a little less than welcoming. Smoking was chic and commonplace in the office The three directors would puff away on their Gordo cigars, flicking ash across our hand drawn design sketches during design reviews. Our Chef De Produit had a grimace that was crushing if he was displeased, but with the guidance and mentoring; and most importantly, the friendship of the Head Designer, I navigated my way through to complete a year and a half with the label before setting my sights once again to London
Social engagements were arranged face to face, or in conversation on a landline telephone call. Mobile phones were becoming more popular, but I believe there was still a mindset at the time of ‘happy not to be reachable 24/7’ The age of the internet was lingering on our doorsteps – a promise or a threat to change the world as we knew it Soon enough new generations would wonder how we could have ever lived without it! Pandora’s Box was opened
Imagecredits: AnnetteEvans
We faxed our tech packs and correspondence to the factories; created our mood boards by collating images from publications and books which had been poured over in libraries and book shops for hours – finding those very specific pictures unknown until discoveredallowing the process to develop the ideas and evolve the concepts
Piles of photocopied images, sorted, layered, manipulated and juxtaposed; Letraset titles and headers applied with precision It was tactile; crafted; considered and loved We sought out our regular restaurants; Lina’s Sandwiches on hangover working days; Café Marly for goats cheese bricks; StGermain for Pizza or Japanese sashimi rice bowls; Vietnamese and Indian in the 4th arrondissement, and not least, Chez Paul on Rue De Charonne for our favourite French cuisine and ambience
We partied in the 11th; got down in the jazz clubs in the 5th; dressed up for the club nights in the 3rd We swooned throughout Maxwell’s performance of his Urban Hang Suite; swayed to the neo soul rhythms of Lewis Taylor; welled up to the lyrics and acoustic guitar of Suzanne Vega; and amongst the crowds at The Verve’s concert in the Parc De Villette, felt the bittersweet symphony of leaving Paris.
My long-standing love of Paris never falters; it draws me back like no other city The Fashion industry has changed. Fast fashion monopolises the industry in an everunsustainable way We sit on the brink of the Ai revolution, no doubt reflecting on these years with a great sense of nostalgia, as I reflect on an era feeling somewhat poignant to where we are today
By Annette Evans { instagram: @idlethoughts }
IT’STIMETO FLOURISH!
The Flourish Group is a not-for-profit organisation
The group designs for social good and promotes creativity in local communities Founded by SSEAMS industry friend Fran Lee, we asked her how she got here >>
“Webelievetheinteriorofcommunityand publicspacesshouldbeinnovativeand exciting–reflectingthecommunitiesthey serveandtheusagetheyprovide.”
As a child I loved arts and crafts but at home, money for art resources was scarce - we cut up a lot of magazines and saved a lot of toilet rolls!! My creativity was supported by my parents who spent a lot of time with me making and drawing but I also had amazing teachers at school who inspired me
Today however, art lessons are often taught ‘on rotation’ and not once a week as they once were - despite the creative industries being worth £108 billion per year according to the department of culture, media and sport (13th June 2023) I started to wonder, how do we support our creatives of the future to gain access to the materials they need as well as those in our communities who use art and crafts to relax, play and escape? As a multi disciplinary creative with over twenty years experience, I work creatively across TV, events, fashion and interiors I have worked as a creative consultant to The Design Museum, London and Salisbury City Council I have been involved with performances by Lizzo, Anne Marie and Robbie Williams plus many more; styled the closing ceremony for the Men’s 2020 Euros and have created interior concepts across numerous spaces
My creative world has been diverse but after appearing as a contestant on Season 3 of the BBC’s Interior Design Masters with Alan Carr I realised that great design can change how you feel and experience the world around you for the better and that this is what I wanted to focus on Sitting in the often faded environments of a doctors surgery or a paediatric department with my daughter who has type 1 diabetes; I’ve often thought that a coat of paint, some colour and creative thinking could transform these environments inspiring recovery and a more positive outlook A more creative approach to design could change lives and shape communities, public spaces could reflect their users as generic magnolia walls could be replaced with splashes of colour and joy
And so Flourish was born - a Not for Profit Community Interest Company (Limited by Guarantee) - An organisation to design for social good, promoting creativity and supporting and inspiring the creatives in our communities and of our future
Take a moment to view/share the good work going on at Florish - theflorishgrouporguk / Click HERE
Follow Fran Lee > HERE
FROM THE FLOOR
Introducing new SSEAMS Columnist Nina Falk, CoFounder of KC Manufacturing in Scotland. Nina, part of the SSEAMS team will be sharing her opinion from the other side of the making table in future issues Before that, let us introduce you to Nina..
Nina Falk, Textile Product Developer and Creative Director, co-founded KC Manufacturing, an awardwinning textiles product manufacturer based in Scotland With over two decades of experience in the industry, Nina has an extensive background in design and product development. She has managed several brands and stores, creating innovative products for prestigious clients such as Bauhaus and Harrods
Originating from Stockholm, Nina's educational journey is marked by an international influence, with studies spanning Sweden, Japan, and the UK This diverse educational background has significantly shaped her professional approach, allowing her to experiment with various techniques, tools, and methods of product construction Her ability to integrate these diverse influences into her work has been instrumental in her success
Nina's entry into the textile sector began with a oneyear industry placement at the Modern Museum after completing her studies in Fashion and Tailoring in Stockholm During this time, she exhibited her constructed garments alongside the renowned
FASHINATION exhibition, which featured work by acclaimed artists and designers such as Vanessa Beecroft, Hussein Chalayan, and Alexander McQueen This experience sparked a deep interest in the intersection of art and fashion, a theme that has consistently influenced her work
Nina is particularly fascinated by the convergence of art and fashion, viewing textiles as both functional objects and artistic expressions She specialises in creating handmade garments and accessories that are customised for the client and end-wearer, employing traditional techniques to bridge the gap between these two often separate fields
In 2012, alongside designer Adam Robertson, Nina established KC Manufacturing, originally known as Kalopsia Collective The company has since become a leader in the sustainable textile industry, known for its innovative approach to product development and manufacturing Nina Falk's career exemplifies a blend of artistic creativity and technical knowledge which some might say pushing the boundaries of traditional textile manufacturing, exploring new possibilities in design and craftsmanship
ABOUT KC MANUFACTURING >
KC Manufacturing is an awardwinning accessory and apparel manufacturer based in Fife, Scotland, specialising in effective product manufacturing solutions for private label brand clients For the last decade, KC has successfully supported clients to make better environmental impact decisions about their raw material sourcing and selection favouring quality and durable materials that last the test of time Follow their work as they get ready to launch The modern workers ‘ready to order’ collection in August CLICK HERE
GLASGOW CAPITAL FASHION
By Keith Gray, Fashion Design Lecturer from The Glasgow School of Art
The fashion program at The Glasgow School of Art holds its fashion show every year providing the graduates to exhibit collectively at the Degree Showcase to celebrate their achievements
They are highlighting their fashion collections and supporting portfolios, which embody creative freedom and diversity A range of target audiences, ideas, processes, and making practices focus on the individual interests and career aspirations of the graduating students From sustainable practices to avant-garde aesthetics, the designers have pushed the boundaries of fashion design
The graduate degree showcase of 2024 was held at Glasgow School of Art’s Reid Building, known for its modern architecture and open, lightfilled spaces, which provide the perfect backdrop for the students’ collections
Highlights from The Glasgow School of Art fashion show
Some highlights from the 2024 show >> Image credits: Ruby Pluhar
“The Degree Showcase is more than just an exhibition; it’s a launchpad for future fashion innovators. As these young designers take their first steps into the professional world, their collections not only reflect their individual journeys but also the future direction of fashion.”
DidAIjust become spooky?
Artificial Intelligence: It’s no longer just a tech buzzword or the stuff of sci-fi flicks. It’s here, it’s real, and it’s getting spookily good at figuring out our moods, wants, and needs You know, the kind of eerie precision that makes you wonder if your smartphone is actually reading your mind. Let’s dive into how AI is subtly (or not so subtly) weaving itself into our daily lives, from our wardrobes to our weekends
1. Clothes That Know You Better Than You Do
Imagine this: you’re browsing your favourite online brand, and suddenly it’s like the site is reading your mind That jacket that’s been sitting at the back of your mind, the one you didn’t even know you needed? Right there, on the front page AI algorithms are getting scarily good at predicting what you’ll like based on your browsing history, past purchases, and even the latest fashion trends Brands like ASOS and MatchesFashion are leading the charge, making it easier than ever to find clothes that suit your style without you lifting a finger
2. Homewares That Anticipate Your Every Move
Ever had that feeling that your home knows you too well? AI-powered devices like Amazon Echo and Google Home are turning our houses into smart homes They adjust the lighting, set the perfect temperature, and even remind you to buy milk It’s like living with a butler (well, maybe not quite) who never sleeps and always knows exactly what you want Kinda spooky? Possibly Convenient? Absolutely
3. Netflix Knows What You’ll Binge Next
We’ve all experienced it: you finish a series on Netflix, and before you can even ponder what to watch next, there’s a suggestion so spot-on it’s almost unnerving And to be honest, if it suggests I rewatch Ozark just one more time I hate that it knows that I will watch it again, and again AI is behind these eerie recommendations, analysing your viewing habits to predict what you’ll enjoy next It’s like having a friend who knows your taste in TV better than you do minus the awkward conversations
4. Planning the Perfect Getaway
Dreaming of your next holiday, but unsure where to book? AI is on it Travel websites use AI to recommend destinations based on your past trips, search history, and even the time of year If you persist in clicking ‘love’ on Social Media you will be sent ‘bargain’ getaways to the very same destinations Whether it’s a cosy cottage in the Cotswolds or a sun-soaked beach in Portugal, AI can help you plan the perfect getaway It’s as if your travel agent has been replaced by a digital crystal ball
5 Dining Out with a Digital Twist
Looking for the perfect spot for dinner? AI’s got your back Apps that recommend restaurants are using AI to curate lists based on your culinary preferences and dining history It’s like having a food critic in your pocket, ready to point you towards that hidden gem you’ll love And if you’re into trying new activities, AI can even suggest local events and hotspots to keep your social calendar buzzing It doesn’t always get the best results, yet my waistline argues it’s working just fine!
Conclusion
So, are we becoming overly suspicious or has AI just become spooky? Maybe a little of both Regardless, as it gets better at understanding our wants and needs, it’s also making life a lot easier and sometimes more fun From finding the perfect outfit to planning a night out, AI is becoming an indispensable part of our daily lives It’s a bit like having a personal assistant who knows you inside and out, and who never takes a day off Spooky, yeah, but also pretty amazing
By SSEAMS Columnist Peter Gallagher Witham of The Fashion Guild
Peter Gallagher-Witham is a fashion industry veteran with a Master of Design from the Royal College of Art. With leadership roles at brands like Nike, Under Armour, and Lacoste, Peter has made his mark as a designer and creative director.
Zest up your summer!
Olivia’s Kitchen
By Food Stylist and SSEAMS Columnist Olivia Gartley
Olivia is a freelance food stylist and recipe writer with
Zesty citrus & kale
salad
ight and fresh salad perfect for a mmery lunch or to bring some zest to ur next BBQ. Serves 2 / Prep Time 10 nutes / Cook Time less than 5 nutes.
reparation:
gredients:
0g kale
mall orange
ink grapefruit
bsp mixed seeds
bsp Chopped walnuts
sp Honey
nch of salt
Dressing:
3 tbsp. Extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp Orange juice
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp Honey
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
Image credit: Emily Dennison
Zesty citrus & kale salad
THE EASY HOW-TO GUIDE
Peel and thinly slice the orange and pink grapefruit.
Clean and then prepare the kale by removing the stalks and slicing into small pieces.
Place all the ingredients for the dressing into a bowl and mix well until combined
Add the prepared kale into the dressing and massage into the leaves for a couple of minutes until the kale darkens in colour and starts to soften. Add the slices of orange and grapefruit into the salad. Heat a frying pan and add the seeds and walnuts and toast for a couple of minutes, season with a good pinch of salt and a drizzle of honey then add to the salad.
Serve and enjoy!
Follow Oliva’s work; Instagram
MEETTHEMAKER
Lillie O’Brien established London Borough of Jam in 2011, following five years as pastry chef at St John Bread & Wine in London
LBJ preserves are made in small batches and cooked for a shorter time compared to generic brands The flavour is honest and unadulterated; it is fruit-driven, rather than sugar-driven When tasting LBJ preserves you will always taste the fruit first followed by the sugar and a special complimentary flavour We use natural, unrefined sugars and no commercial pectins LBJ preserves contain no more than 4 ingredients and are dairy free & vegan.
The preserves combine seasonal fruits – sourced in the UK, France, Italy and Spain – such as Victoria Plums, Greengages, Raspberries, Rhubarb and Seville Oranges with unusual additions such as bay leaf, cardamom, cocoa nibs, lemon verbena, wild fennel pollen and verjuice which we believe enhance the fruit flavours and maintain natural, respectful combinations. LBJ can supply wholesale to cafes, restaurants and shops
londonboroughofjam.com
Imagecredit: JimMarsden
Image credit: Emily Dennison
Imagecredit: SophieDavidson
Summerhas landedat Taymouth Marina
An award winning wild wellness Loch side spa resort with beautiful self-catering accommodation located on the banks of Loch Tay within the dramatic landscape of The Scottish Highlands - What’s not to love?
SSEAMScaughtupwiththeteamatTaymouthMarinaandaskedthemwhattheirtop3 newsstoriesareforthesummermonths...
1 We have Drummond View Apartments that launched in March, that are our most decadent apartments to date, with incredible views and hot tubs on each balcony and terrace.
2 We have our new seasonal summer menu in place, which has been very exciting for us We're working together with 2 lovely local suppliers Rotmell Farm for eggs and beef and Wild Hearth Bakery for focaccias.
3 We have our Sunset Sessions! These are live music events hosted at the Ferryman's Inn terrace and are great fun. We'll also be releasing the dates to our wine tasting events soon!
Book your visit via taymouthmarina.com
Imagecredits:KingaRumin
Scooping thewins
Milk & Honey Ice Cream was established in October 2021, by two friends, Steve and Andy Steve, a lifelong chef, is Greek-American with an Italian mother, and has carefully learned to fuse the rich flavours of his heritage
Moving to Scotland for university, he never left and became good friends with Andy who has a history in starting enterprising projects. Together, they have grown from one ice cream machine, making and delivering sold out flavours each week, to supplying highquality farm-shops and other artisan partners in Stirling, Glasgow and further afield
from communities throughout Stirlingshire They go above and beyond to ensure quality remains the priority, working incredibly hard on an additional vegan base which is received very well on a weekly basis
MILK&HONEY
Milk & Honey also make bespoke flavours for The Cromlix Hotel and Nick Nairn’s restaurants at Port Of Menteith and Bridge Of Allan, notably, making a Douglas Fir Ice Cream to feature on BBC One’s ‘Christmas at Cromlix’ Special, with Andy Murray and Mary Berry
Still very much a family business, Steve and Andy refer to their customers as the “M&H Family”, as they have received huge support
Their commitment to ingenuity and creativity means that Harviestoun and Diageo have both asked them to attend events and create bespoke flavours with their beverages (from Baileys to Old Engine Oil dark beer) Throughout it all, Steve and Andy have managed to retain their simple mission; To make and sell the best ice cream possible
Imagecredits:Milk&Honey
