HUB Style #05-2025 - UK version

brand

Orciani

ASH

Buttero

El Vaquero

Fauzian Jeunesse

Fiorentini + Baker

Sonora topic

Focus on boots

Next in fashion

The return of the elite Fashion’s super creatives

BACK TO THE PHYSICAL

The return of fashion to Milan always marks a symbolic moment. It’s not just another Fashion Week it’s a barometer of what the industry thinks, produces, and above all, dreams. Once again this year, as is now a much-loved tradition, HUB Style accompanies this moment with a special issue, distributed across runways and international fairs, built around a strong and distinctly feminine theme: boots a symbol of strength, identity, and pop culture, capable of transcending eras and styles without ever losing relevance.

The numbers speak for themselves. The global boots market today is worth between €34 and €36 billion, and is forecast to surpass €47 billion by 2030 (CAGR +6%). Within this landscape, the most surprising trend is the rise of cowboy boots, which grew from $255 million in 2023 to nearly $290 million in 2025, with projections pushing them to over $538 million by 2035. This boom is fueled by the “Yellowstone” effect and the Beyoncé phenomenon (Cowboy Carter), which alone drove global cowboy boot sales up by +24% and online searches in Paris by over +224%. Even in Milan, the boot has become a crossover accessory, paired with both minimalist looks and bohochic outfits—across all seasons, summer and winter alike.

Still, it’s worth remembering: behind every product, there are always people. That’s the message behind our cover story dedicated to Orciani, a bag brand that has grown from a small artisan workshop in Italy’s Marche region into a major player on the international scene. Under the guidance of Claudia Orciani, second generation of the founding family, the brand shows that the future of fashion lies in a delicate balance: innovating without betraying your roots, daring without compromising on quality or coherence.

As products evolve, so does luxury itself. In our Analytics section, we explore “The Return of the Elite”: the top 0.1% of global consumers now account for 37% of total luxury spending, with an average yearly spend exceeding €360,000. “Aspirational” buyers once the backbone of the market—are shrinking dramatically. The result? Less inclusion, more exclusivity. The geography of wealth is shifting toward India and Southeast Asia, while in Europe and the U.S., consumers are increasingly seeking personalized, authentic, and discreet experiences. For brands, the challenge is radical: less mass communication, more one-to-one relationships; fewer products, stronger connections.

At the same time, we’re witnessing the return of figures who define an era. In our From Fashion section, we explore the rise of the über-designers no longer just stylists, but true visionaries and business architects, capable of managing multiple brands and collections simultaneously. From Jonathan Anderson, now creative director of Dior alongside JW Anderson and Uniqlo, to Matthieu Blazy, newly appointed at Chanel, and Demna, now steering both Gucci and Balenciaga—these are talents embodying the complexity of a global system, setting the pace of a fashion world that is ever faster and more dynamic, for better or worse.

Within all this, distribution remains a key player but one that has been navigating turbulent seasons. In Italy alone, over 20,000 stores have closed in the past five years, and the number of fashion sales agencies dropped by 4.8% in 2024 alone. In this context, our interview with Assomoda president Maurizio Governa highlights the urgency of redefining the role of agents the historical bridge between brands and the market.

Yet amidst this uncertainty, there’s also a somewhat unexpected confirmation: physical retail is making a comeback as a central touchpoint, after years in which it seemed doomed by the rise of e-commerce.

The illusion that digital would be the only future for sales has been shattered by a wave of crises, declines, and shutdowns even among the very platforms once considered unstoppable. A case in point: Yoox—emblematic, but not alone. On the other hand, flagship stores and independent boutiques, while facing the challenges we’ve documented, are not just surviving they are thriving as spaces of connection, curation, and storytelling. No longer just points of sale, they have become experiential and community-driven environments, able to convey a brand’s identity in deep and authentic ways—beyond the transactional logic of a click.

In this new perspective, physical retail is no longer the rival or the alternative to online—but rather a fertile ground where the value of brands and human relationships is reinforced and reimagined.

BENEDETTO SIRONI

Publisher MagNet S.r.l. SB Editor-in-Chief: ANGELO FRIGERIO Editorial Director: BENEDETTO SIRONI

Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI Editors VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MARIA PINA CIUFFREDA, ALESSANDRO MARRA

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors: MARCO RIZZI ANGELO RUGGERI, SIMONE COMI

Offices Via Tertulliano 68/70 - 20137 Milano -Tel: 02.87245180 Corso della Resistenza, 23 20821 Meda (MB) - redazione.hubstyle@mag-net.it

Gierre

THE EDGE OF STREETWEAR

Diesel x Eastpak, a collaboration that unites two rebellious icons in the name of freedom and adventure. Eastpak’s most iconic backpacks and accessories are reinterpreted through Diesel’s subversive aesthetic. Trompe l’oeil effects, raw denim, and multi-pocket details transform classic models into statement pieces. From the Day Pak’r to the Transit’r trolley, each item plays with visual illusions and material contrasts. A mash-up collection that challenges perception and redefines the codes of streetwear.

THE UNIFORM OF TOTAL BLACK

Skepta joins forces once again with PUMA for a capsule collection that speaks of essence and attitude. Minimalist and total black, designed like a modern-day uniform, the line reimagines streetwear staples in premium materials. From heavyweight hoodies and tees to the refined, functional cap, each piece features an exclusive co-branded badge. The standout? The PUMA x Skepta Skope Forever Low sneaker—part school shoe, part contemporary design. With leather details, rope laces, and a trekking sole, it fuses urban style with bold energy.

WAVES OF STYLE

“High Tides” marks the meeting point between Desigual’s experimental spirit and BOTTER’s avant-garde vision. A unisex collection made of deconstructed silhouettes, fluid volumes, and multicultural patchworks. The sea becomes an aesthetic language: waves, currents, and liquid landscapes transform into prints and tailored details. Sunset-washed jeans, oversized blazers, and airy shirts capture the capsule’s spirit. A bold and sustainable design that reinterprets Desigual’s archive in a contemporary key.

WHEN TENNIS BECOMES COUTURE

Venus Williams takes the US Open runway in a technical Merino wool kit by LUAR x Woolmark. The groundbreaking collaboration fuses athletic performance with high fashion, revolutionizing tennis apparel. Two distinct looks and functional accessories highlight the versatility and elegance of natural wool. Each piece combines refined design, sustainability, and the innovation of Woolmark-certified fiber. A partnership that redefines sports fashion, placing Merino wool center stage, both on and off the court.

NEW SEASON, NEW IDENTITY

The new F.C. Como Women x Nike collection debuts with a refined black-and-white striped design, available in both home and away versions. With the campaign “The Next Wave,” the jersey becomes a symbol of energy and ambition, heritage and community. Inspired by the unconventional spirit of the Nike T90, the design tells the story of a confident, future-facing women’s football. Created for the pitch but meant to be worn every day, the collection reflects Como’s unique identity and its connection to its community.

POKÉMON COLLECTION

The iconic STANDARD Z WIREBAG by ANTEPRIMA gets a magical makeover with charms inspired by Pikachu, Jigglypuff, Psyduck, Eevee, and Ditto. Five crossbody bags and four charms, including a Poké Ball, celebrate the fusion of style and nostalgia. Each piece is handcrafted, blending ANTEPRIMA’s elegant design with the timeless charm of Pokémon. An exclusive collection designed for those who love to stand out—with a touch of wonder!

TOWARDS A NEW COURSE

A bridge between generations and a tribute to authentic style. North Sails presents a new capsule collection in collaboration with Alessandro Squarzi and Martin Brucker. Inspired by iconic 1980s and ’90s garments, the collection reimagines archival graphics with a modern twist using the new visual code “ST25.” Lived-in elegance, relaxed cuts, and refined materials give life to pieces rich in memory and identity. The Mediterranean light and the understated flair of the French Riviera guide the collection’s aesthetic—a celebration of the bond between past and present, technique and personal narrative.

Green, a sophisticated shade inspired by the enveloping colors of autumn. Crafted in aluminum with Italian leather finishes, it combines aesthetics with high performance. Designed by Marc Sadler, it features TSA locks, the iconic butterfly closures, smoothgliding dual wheels, and practical interiors. An homage to nature, in true Made in Italy luxury style.

NATURE IS WITHIN US

Haider Ackermann returns to collaborate with Canada Goose for the second drop of the Snow Goose capsule, expanding the vision launched in June and further cementing an aesthetic that merges adventurous spirit, functionality, and urban design. The collection celebrates the deep connection between humans and nature, reinterpreting classic outerwear with a contemporary eye and a technical edge.

WHEN DETAIL MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

A meeting of artisan elegance and precious creativity: ALLAGIULIA and veroVEROnica come together for an exclusive capsule of jewel-like friulane shoes. The iconic footwear is reimagined with refined nautical rope weaves and sparkling details. A unique blend of tailoring tradition and contemporary flair, the collaboration celebrates creativity, craftsmanship, and a love for uniqueness. A little daily luxury to wear lightly.

BIRKENSTOCK OPENS

ITS FIRST MILAN STORE

Birkenstock hits a new milestone in Europe, choosing the vibrant heart of Brera, Milan, for an immersive, refined retail experience. The new shop the brand’s third full-price monobrand in Italy and 42nd in Europe underscores its ambition to anchor itself in the continent’s leading cultural capitals. Housed in a standalone building at the corner of Corso Garibaldi and Via Tivoli, with a Tuscan-style façade, the concept store celebrates the footbed, the true core of Birkenstock’s dna.

BRIONI OPENS NEW TOKYO BOUTIQUE

Brioni proudly unveils its new Tokyo boutique inside the renowned Roppongi Hills complex, along prestigious Keyakizaka Street. The opening marks an important step for the Maison in Japan, reaffirming its commitment to Italian tailoring, excellence in made in Italy and a shopping experience designed for an elite international clientele. Spread over two floors, the boutique blends the brand’s sartorial heritage with the clean lines of Japanese design.

REFRIGIWEAR DEBUTS IN CORTINA

Cortina d’Ampezzo welcomes RefrigiWear’s new monobrand store, dedicated to the Fall-Winter 2025 Evolve collection. Spanning about 100 square meters, the boutique showcases pieces that fuse workwear and streetwear, balancing function and modern style. The space reflects the brand’s identity, aimed at today’s pioneers who move between work and leisure without giving up elegance. This launch marks a key step in RefrigiWear’s retail growth, offering a new hub for versatile, innovative design in the heart of Cortina.

AMERICAN VINTAGE LANDS IN MANCHESTER

In the heart of Manchester, American Vintage opens a space where fashion, atmosphere and lifestyle meet. Far from a simple store, this new address celebrates the brand’s Marseilles roots with essential pieces and natural fabrics. Surrounded by immersive screens and warm décor, it radiates a relaxed Mediterranean elegance a place to experience style, sip coffee and find inspiration.

TIZIANA FAUSTI BOUTIQUE UNVEILS NEW LOOK

Tiziana Fausti’s Bergamo boutique has been reimagined with a restyling that unites fashion, design and contemporary art. The new concept enhances the building’s history through a monochrome palette and seamless materials, creating minimalist volumes that flow with the floor. The result is a refined, harmonious setting where old and new converse naturally a project that reinterprets the past while projecting it into the future, blending elegance and innovation in one space.

COVER STORY

SOFTNESS ROCKS

Orciani reinvents accessible luxury through authentic craftsmanship and contemporary boldness. Claudia, president and soul of the brand that bears her name, shares its roots, global growth, and cosmopolitan spirit

by Valeria Oneto

Between the hills and the sea of Italy’s Marche region, in 1978, Claudio Orciani turned a belt into a tangible idea, founding a small workshop destined to become a brand capable of redefining Italian luxury. That simple gesture marked the beginning of a journey that has made Orciani an icon of authentic and timeless luxury, blending craftsmanship, understated elegance, and a modern vision. Today, the company is led by Claudia Orciani, his daughter and second generation of the family, and the protagonist of our interview. Under her guidance, the brand keeps its artisanal heritage alive while embracing the global market and a cosmopolitan outlook, all without losing its Italian soul. The company stands out for its soft premium approach, offering high-quality, elegant, and versatile accessories for men and women seeking authenticity and value beyond fleeting trends. The

Orciani man and woman share a refined, cosmopolitan, and distinctive style. The collections combine artisanal heritage and modernity, from the iconic Sveva and Nana bags to the FW 25 highlights, Softness Rocks, where the Venus model embodies softness and boldness, symbolizing a timeless and accessible luxury. Today, Orciani is more than a brand: it’s a project merging history, design, and sustainable innovation, a reference point for those who seek elegance, quality, and identity in a conscious and authentic luxury.

From the artisan workshop in Fano to the global stage: Orciani’s story spans over 40 years. How important is it today to stay true to your roots, and how challenging is it to grow in international markets? Orciani is a constantly evolving company, capable of

Claudia Orciani, President of Orciani

innovating without ever betraying its vision. The challenge today is to embrace and interpret a new concept of luxury real, authentic, and offering a valuable alternative to the outdated and inaccessible notions of fashion.

What does it mean for you to interpret a “soft premium” segment in a fashion world that often swings between unreachable exclusivity and fast fashion?

Softness Rocks is not just a payoff it’s a declaration of intent: a real approach to sustainable aesthetics, soft in form, values, and the concept of conscious fashion. Our ambition is to create and define a timeless, quality-driven style. Our creations bridge the gap between the inaccessible world of high-priced luxury and fast fashion, often associated with poor quality and environmentally harmful practices. We restore dignity and value to design, materials, and craftsmanship, offering true Made in Italy at accessible and sustainable prices.

The Sveva bag is already iconic, but new lines like this season’s best seller Venus are gaining prominence. How do you innovate without betraying a symbol that’s become part of your DNA?

Our DNA is artisanal excellence, and every creation starts from a principle: our strongest legacy. We begin with the leather, the materials, the touch, the sensations, and

the emotion a bag evokes. We tell its story and turn that narrative into value.

“Leather is our canvas”: from classic leathers to Gotham with fringes and studs, and the eco-fur Wolf. How do you strike a balance between bold experimentation and respect for Italy’s great leather tradition?

Research and material study, experimenting with new techniques, and creatively manipulating leather this is what happens in our labs. Every step, from cutting to stitching, is designed to enhance the unique character of the material, turning each bag into a small masterpiece destined to become part of the wearer’s personal story.

Your workshops are where craftsmanship meets technology, tradition meets innovation. How can artisanal work evolve today from a cultural value to a true competitive advantage on the global market?

For us, craftsmanship has never been just a cultural value it’s a concrete one. We put it into every creation, every day. It means quality, excellence, reliability, and authenticity traits that make our bags recognizable and competitive worldwide.

International business already accounts for 30% of your revenue, with a goal to double that in two years.

From left: the Aura model, elegant and feminine; the new Venus with chain handles; the bold and glamorous Gossip clutch; and finally, the Laio men’s backpack

Which key markets are you focusing on, and what numbers do you expect to reach by 2025?

Our key markets are Europe, America, Japan, and Russia. We expect these to represent 50% of our revenue by 2025. We continue to strengthen our presence, aiming to increase brand awareness and bring authentic Made in Italy to an international audience.

The HUB Style survey “100 Points of View” recognized you as the breakout brand of 2025 in the men’s and women’s accessories category. Does this reflect what you’re experiencing in the market and in relationships with Italian buyers?

Yes, it’s a recognition that truly reflects our journey. We represent a real, credible, and reliable alternative to inaccessible luxury, offering meaningful options to those excluded from major labels. Our philosophy and approach to fashion have proven successful both in the market and in our relationships with buyers.

From “breakout brand” to established label: what strategies will you put in place to move beyond a moment of success and build long-term presence

in stores and among influential buyers?

For us, this means continuously innovating introducing new ideas and collections while staying rooted in our values and identity. Our goal is to grow consistently, with a clear vision and a distinctive style.

Looking ahead, Orciani remains “crafted with soul in the heart of Italy.” Where do you see the brand in five years more international, more lifestyleoriented, or still anchored in the artisanal identity that sets you apart?

Every collection we create genuinely made in Italy is a tribute to Italy, to the Marche region, and to its creative spirit. It’s an ode to the truth of our land, where our craftsmanship is born: a story of care, passion, and expertise, deeply and inseparably linked to the place that inspires every creative and production step. This artisanal attitude harmoniously coexists with a forward-looking vision for global markets and a cosmopolitan brand identity. We hope to continue growing through international expansion and lifestyle positioning, while always preserving our DNA and identity.

A shot of the Jones Peach duffle bag in suede by Orciani

NEXT IN FASHION

The new voices in fashion who are changing the rules of the game. They are the future of Made in Italy, in Italy and worldwide

by Sara Fumagallo

MAREA

The concept of transformation, overturning the traditional codes of both men’s and women’s wardrobes, is at the heart of Marea’s FW 25/26 collection. A proposal where pinstripe suits, symbols of rigor and formality, are deconstructed and reconstructed, acquiring new shapes. The brand, created by the visionary Giuseppe Della Monica and founded in 2023, blends luxury, craftsmanship, and sustainability, promoting a unique approach to fashion where each garment is designed to be both aesthetically refined and environmentally conscious. Indeed, production is almost entirely plastic-free, using recycled materials and eco-friendly techniques such as water-based printing. Each collection tells a story of contemporary tailoring and responsibility toward the planet, transforming vintage and waste materials into one-of-a-kind pieces.

Instagram. @mareamareamare

THE NOUR

l“In the Shadow, a Ray.” This is the essence of the brand The Nour, founded by Milanese designer Francesca Beretta in 2021. Her vision rests on three fundamental pillars innovation, sustainability, and authentic expression and it is through this philosophy that all her collections are created. For FW 25/26, the dream bends to reality, represented by worn velvets, inverted mirrors, and bodies lying in a limbo suspended between childhood and nightmare. A dark Wonderland made of broken symbols, torn fabrics, and details that hold secrets. Each creation is designed to break down the norms and restrictions of the traditional industry through bold designs, sophisticated tailoring, and cruelty-free materials.

Instagram. @the_nour_official thenour.it

BOOTED & BOLD

From craftsmanship to innovation, from the runway to street style, boots remain icons of style and cultural identity, able to transcend eras and trends without losing their charm or personality

by Valeria Oneto

Atimeless symbol of strength and style, boots have evolved alongside cultural shifts and functional needs. In recent years, they’ve experienced a true renaissancenot just as fashion accessories, but as statements of identity and artisanal craftsmanship. Brands like Sonora, Fiorentini + Baker, El Vaquero, and ASH have reinterpreted them, keeping tradition alive while embracing innovation. The global boot market is estimated at €34–36 billion, with projections to surpass €47 billion (around $50 billion) by 2030, registering a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of about 6% (Future Market Insights, Grand View Research). Among styles, cowboy boots have made a remarkable comeback, not just on the runway but in pop culture, from music to cinema. Globally, the cowboy boot market grew from

$255 million in 2023 to $289.7 million in 2025, with forecasts reaching $538.6 million by 2035 a CAGR of 6.4% (Future Market Insights). This boom is fueled by pop culture influence, from the hit series Yellowstone to Beyoncé’s “Cowboy Carter” album, which boosted cowboy boot sales by 24% (The Sun). In Europe especially France and Italy cowboy boots, like those from Fauzian Jeunesse, have become street style staples. In Paris, Beyoncé’s impact led to a 224% spike in searches for cowboy boots, while in Milan fashion insiders pair them with bohochic and minimalist looks winter or summer alike. This feature explores the evolution of the boot, with a special focus on the cowboy style, examining market trends, stylistic innovations, and the stories of five brands that have turned this accessory into a timeless icon.

1 In recent years, the boot in all its variations from the classic riding boot to the western style has returned to the fashion spotlight. Do you see this as a cyclical comeback, a new cultural reinterpretation, or a timeless piece updating itself for contemporary expression?

2 How does the boot fit within your stylistic universe? Is it a foundational element,

an identity code, or a space for formal experimentation?

3 From a production and design standpoint, what are the main challenges or choices you face when developing a boot? (Materials, fit, structure, construction techniques, finishes, sustainability…)

4 Which markets today are the most

receptive to boots, and through which channels retail, multibrand stores, e-commerce, or export do you achieve the greatest success?

5 How significant is the cowboy/western boot category within your assortment and overall revenue? Is it a strategic line for the brand, or a niche segment reserved for capsule or seasonal collections?

6

The western boot has made a strong comeback in fashion, revived by international runways, dedicated capsules, and clear influences in music and contemporary pop culture. How do you interpret this return? Is it a trend you actively follow, or an aesthetic you reinterpret in your own way?

LEONELLO CALVANI founder ASH

1

The boot is a true classic that transcends seasons, yet each generation reinterprets it with fresh eyes. Today, it’s not just a cyclical comeback: the boot becomes a means of expression, able to absorb cultural, aesthetic, and musical influences. At ASH, we see it as a timeless piece that constantly reinvents itself, engaging with contemporary languages and finding new forms of relevance from a revisited grunge to the western boot reimagined with irony and rebellious sensuality.

2

The boot is part of ASH’s dna: it represents a recognizable identity code, while also serving as a canvas for experimentation. By playing with

proportions, silhouettes, and materials, we create models that balance tradition and innovation. It’s the piece that best expresses the brand’s duality: urban yet wild at heart, rebellious yet sophisticated, always crafted with attention to quality and made in Italy.

3

The main challenges lie in material selection and the care of finishes. A boot must be aesthetically appealing, but also functional and durable. At ASH, we work with soft leathers, suede, and eco-conscious finishes, in line with the RE/ASH and BE KIND projects. Sustainability increasingly guides our choices: we aim to offer a product that expresses character and identity while respecting both the environment and the wearer.

DEBORAH BAKER founder FIORENTINI + BAKER

1

In all the years I’ve worked in the industry, and even before that, I can’t recall a time when the boot wasn’t a key part of the fashion scene. So I don’t see it as a trend of recent years. Every era has had its own versions: go-go boots, biker boots, military boots, Chelsea boots… the list goes on.

2

The boot has always been at the heart of our brand: Fiorentini + Baker was founded on, and is known for, the boot. Personally, I alternate between sandals and boots because I find it hard to choose other shoes. The boot conveys strength, personality, and a touch of irony it says a lot about the person wearing it.

3

Every aspect materials, fit, structure, and finishes is fundamental.

4

Today, all channels are important. E-commerce is increasingly relevant, but the in-store retail experience remains essential: it’s an excellent tool to build customer trust and consolidate the brand.

5

For years, we have been creating boots with western influences, reinterpreted in our own style. This segment is an integral part of our assortment, not a seasonal experiment.

6

The western genre has always been present in music and film. Now it’s returning to fashion in a more visible way than a few seasons ago, and I believe it will continue to inspire authentic western style, influencing “cowboy” boots across different price points and markets. We always reinterpret it in our own way personal and recognizable.

4

Europe remains the most receptive market, thanks to a stylistic culture that highly values this type of footwear. Multibrand stores are privileged partners, allowing our universe to dialogue alongside other labels. At the same time, e-commerce continues to grow, offering a direct connection with a young, international community attentive to new trends.

5

The western boot is a niche segment, offered selectively and seasonally. It is not a main revenue driver, but it allows us to engage with specific trends and reinterpret them through our lens. For ASH, it’s more of a creative laboratory than a strategic category: an opportunity to reimagine an icon with personal accents consistent with the brand’s aesthetic.

6

We reinterpret it in our own way. We’re not interested in following trends passively, but in incorporating them into our vision and giving them a precise identity. In the case of the western boot, we use it as a language to merge with other codes from urban grunge to rebellious fem ininity creating a piece that is never just a revival, but always a transformation.

FABRIZIO MANDOLESI owner FAUZIAN JEUNESSE

1 Fashion is always cyclical: nothing entirely new is ever invented, everything comes back and gets reinterpreted. Today, the boot is presented in an updated key, with contemporary languages suited to the current world, but the dynamic remains that of a cycle constantly renewing itself.

2

Both. The boot is undoubtedly a foundational and identity-defining element of our brand the product we are known for. At the same time, it represents a space for experimentation, allowing me to express creativity and innovation.

3

Material selection is fundamental: we always aim for the highest-quality raw materials. Fit is another crucial aspect: once the shape is defined, it remains the same to ensure comfort and recognizability. Sustainability, for us, primarily means creating footwear built to last ten years or more. We also try to minimize synthetic materials,

favoring genuine leather and plant-based components. All our shoes are handmade, entirely in Italy.

4

Export accounts for about 60–65% of our business. We work very successfully with the United States and Europe, and have started expanding into China. We primarily collaborate with multibrand stores, while e-commerce is not yet our strongest channel: for high-quality, premium products, we still believe the physical experience is essential. Today, the best markets are the United States and Italy, particularly the central and northern regions.

5

The western category represents about 70% of our assortment and turnover. It is without doubt a strategic and identity-defining line, not a niche segment.

6

For me, it’s not a passing trend, but almost a way of life. I don’t create collections to chase the market: I design what I love and interpret it through our personal language. In this sense, the western boot remains a constant, not a fleeting fashion.

1

The boot is not just a passing fashion, but an archetype: it originated as a functional shoe, rooted in work and adventure, and has evolved into a statement of style,

freedom, and identity. Fashion moves in cycles, but today we see a profound cultural reinterpretation, where contemporary language meets the craftsmanship of the western boot. Every El Vaquero boot tells the story of its wearer, with details, workmanship, and finishes that speak to both the eye and the heart, becoming a companion for everyday life and personal adventures.

2

The boot is the brand’s beating heart foundational and identity-defining, yet also a creative laboratory. It’s the ground where we experiment with volumes, textures, and stylistic crossovers, bringing the western tradition into contemporary languages without losing its roots. It represents our recognizable signature, but also the way we tell stories and capture real-life moments of those who choose them, embodying freedom, personality, and uniqueness in every detail.

3

Raw material is essential: leather is a living canvas that absorbs marks, journeys, and emotions. It requires suppliers committed to ethics and sustainability, because for us these are principles, not trends. Comfort comes first: an El Vaquero boot must hug the foot like a second skin, with anatomical shapes and handcrafting techniques such as moccasin construction. Every finish tells a story of time and artisanal work, creating boots that excite and endure.

4

The most receptive markets are Northern Europe and the United States, where the boot is valued as a symbol of authenticity, craftsmanship, and creative freedom. In Northern Europe, our contemporary western aesthetic is read as an expression of individuality, while in the U.S., it’s a return to roots reinterpreted with Italian taste. Strategic channels include the multibrand network, to bring the product to

NICHOLAS GIUNTOLI ceo EL VAQUERO

1

The boot should not be seen as a revival, but as a true evergreen: its silhouettes and languages may change, yet it always remains an icon capable of transcending seasons without losing its identity. Its strength lies in versatility—from the riding boot, emblem of bourgeois elegance, to the rebellious charm of the cowboy boot, to more urban and minimal interpretations. It’s a piece that unites function and imagination practicality and comfort on one side, power, rebellion, and playful crossovers on the other and this dual nature is what makes it timeless.

2

For Sonora, the boot is first and foremost an identity cornerstone: it represents our dna. In the 1980s, we were among the first brands to introduce the Made in Italy cowboy boot, and since then this aesthetic code has remained integral to our vision. Today, we see it as a space for contin-

uous experimentation, always rooted in the original foundation that defines and distinguishes us.

3

Developing a boot involves precise production and design challenges. From fit, which must guarantee comfort and stability, to structure, which requires solidity without losing lightness. Materials and finishes are essential, increasingly linked to quality and sustainability standards. But what truly makes the difference is artisanal craftsmanship: every stitch, treatment, and detail comes from experience and precision. This care allows a Sonora boot to be not just a fashion item, but a piece built to last.

4

To date, European markets have proven the most receptive to our boots, also because they are where we have focused most of our efforts so far. We are also watching Asian and U.S. markets with great interest, which represent important growth opportunities. In the short term, our goal is to get closer to the end consumer through the opening of direct stores, offering an immersive experience that fully conveys the brand’s identity, values, and aesthetic.

5

The cowboy boot category is fundamental both in terms of collection presence and revenue. We offer it season after season, in various colors and materials, enriching it with distinctive details without ever losing the brand’s iconic identity. Alongside this iconic line which includes five models of boots and low boots starting from SS26 we have developed a new product category faithful to the brand’s identity but further from traditional Texan boots, introducing

life, and e-commerce, which allows us to communicate our vision directly and build relationships with those who choose El Vaquero.

5

The cowboy and western boot category is the core of the brand, originating with camperos and cowhide cowboy boots in 1975. It is not a niche, but a strategic component, evolving with new silhouettes and materials while maintaining its two main identities: the strong, iconic cowboy boot and the soft, free-form indianino. It is a cornerstone of both revenue and identity, conveying El Vaquero’s story and values every season.

6

The return of the western boot is not a trend to chase, but a confirmation of the brand’s dna: it is our home, the natural ground from which we reinterpret codes in a personal way. Each boot is unique and unrepeatable, traversing the western language with a handcrafted, contemporary perspective. Our mission is to create boots that endure, speak of freedom and authenticity, and leave a recognizable mark on the lives of those who wear them, reflecting fifty years of experience and passion.

more feminine shapes, flat and heeled sandals, and mules to broaden our offering and reach a wider audience.

6

The western boot has always held a great appeal: sometimes the trend is stronger, sometimes less so. But for us, it has never been just a trend it is the heart of Sonora. We have years of experience and expertise in this sector, and this is precisely what sets us apart: anyone looking for a Texan boot or a low boot should immediately think of Sonora.

MAURIZIA LASTILLA manager SONORA

THE PLACE TO BE

Deliberti is not just a fashion boutique, but a true experience. A place where every detail is carefully curated, every product tells a story, and every visit leaves a mark

by Sara Fumagallo

Founded in 1991 from the vision of Giuseppe and Giorgio Deliberti, the eponymous boutique quickly became one of the most recognizable names in the Italian luxury fashion scene. Initially specializing in footwear, Deliberti has stylishly evolved by expanding its offer to contemporary collections for men and women, carefully selected with a keen eye on international trends and emerging new talents. Since 2017, the boutique has found its home on Via dei Mille, the beating heart of high-end shopping in Naples. More than just a location, this address is a manifesto of elegance and vision. It was precisely this pioneering vision that led them, as early as 2013, to launch their e-store, anticipating the dynamics of luxury e-commerce. Today, the website is a dynamic, optimized platform capable of offering a premium shopping experience to an increasingly international clientele a true “place to be.” Giuseppe and Giorgio Deliberti shared with us the story of the boutique, a reference point for those seeking the new, the rare, and the exclusive.

What is the story of Deliberti? What is its mission and vision?

Deliberti was born in Naples in 1991 with the idea of bringing a new concept of boutique to the city: a place where research and innovation meet elegance. Our mission is to offer collections that interpret international trends without losing the personal identity of those who wear them. Our vision remains to continue being a point of reference for contemporary fashion, with an outlook always open to the world.

What is the typical profile of the boutique’s customer, and how do you seek to satisfy their ever-evolving needs?

Our customer is curious, detail-oriented, and eager to stand out. They love quality and experimentation, but with a touch of timeless elegance. To meet constantly new needs, we focus on a continuous selection of international and emerging brands, and a personalized service that makes every visit a unique experience.

What is the added value you find at Deliberti?

We don’t just sell fashion: we curate each collection as if it were a small exhibition. Every garment is chosen with care, prioritizing quality, style, and innovation. Our boutiques are designed as spaces of encounter and

discovery, where the customer finds not only exclusive products but also inspiration. Added to this is our online site, which represents a true window on the world. Over the years, it has steadily grown, reaching thousands of views per day, allowing anyone from anywhere in the world to discover and purchase our collections. All products available in physical boutiques are also offered online, providing a complete and international shopping experience.

Since 1991, you have collaborated with several international designers. How did this idea come about?

From the very beginning, we believed in dialogue with talents from all over the world. Travel, research, and relationships have allowed us to bring special collaborations to Naples with established designers and new fashion names, often offering collections in preview.

Today, the brand counts seven boutiques in Italy. Do you have plans for new openings in the near future?

Today, Deliberti has seven boutiques on the main streets of Naples. We look to the future with enthusiasm and are considering new openings, but always guided by the philosophy that has led us for over 30 years: to grow carefully, maintaining our identity intact.

OVERVIEW

Boutique name: Deliberti

Founder and Ceo: Nuccio and Giorgio Deliberti

Address: Via dei Mille, 24 – Naples (80121)

Size: 800 sqm

Website: deliberti.it

Best-selling brands: Acne Studios, Casablanca, Christian Louboutin, Lemaire, Maison Margiela, Marine Serre, Mihara Yasuhiro, Rick Owens, The Attico, Yohji Yamamoto

Giuseppe and Giorgio Deliberti

Deliberti’s boutique

A STORY IN CONSTANT MOTION

Since 1985, Continuo Showroom has been in continuous evolution but remains true to its mission: to deliver value, not just products

by Sara Fumagallo

There are those who follow fashion and those who anticipate it. Continuo Showroom belongs to the second category. Founded in 1985, the company specializes in distributing footwear and accessories to select stores, combining experience, intuition, and human relationships. Initially, the business was run by Maurizio Berchielli, who personally visited retail locations and later opened showrooms in Florence, Bologna, and Milan, eventually focusing on the latter. Today, Continuo operates in a contemporary 450 sqm space in the heart of Milan, at Via Marcona 3, where growth is steady, consistent, and quality-driven. The company now has a dynamic and specialized team committed to discovering emerging national and international brands and

enhancing established labels. Attention to detail goes beyond the product itself: each client is carefully supported through regular visits, market analysis, and continuous dialogue to build solid and lasting relationships. We spoke with Maurizio Berchielli, ceo and founder.

Since its inception in 1985, Continuo Showroom has been closely tied to footwear and accessories. How has this market changed over the years?

The footwear and fashion market, in general, has undergone a profound and significant transformation in both its content and purchasing approach. Whereas in the past there was an obsessive race for brands and logo display, today consumers reward quality, authenticity, and the real value of the product.

The brands you represent are the result of deep research. How do you choose them, and what characteristics must they meet? How important is storytelling?

Our strength has always been the in-depth search for original brands to introduce to the market, traveling throughout Italy and abroad, leveraging the experience gained over the years. We believe in storytelling, but even more in the importance of offering authentic products with strong personality and a solid balance between quality and price.

Are there particular market segments (e.g., sustainability, made in Italy, luxury, streetwear) you focus on more?

Our primary focus is on the women’s market, offering authentic, high-quality products.

How is the role of showrooms evolving? Will the future be physical, digital, or hybrid?

We firmly believe in the value of physical presence and human relationships fundamental elements to best showcase products and convey their essence. At the same time, we are well-equipped to offer digital tools as alternatives when clients prefer a remote approach.

What are the main markets you operate in today, and which ones do you aim for in the future?

We have a uniform presence across the entire national territory and collaborate with several clients in Eastern Europe and the Middle East, always keeping an eye on new expanding markets.

BRANDS

Ash, Campomaggi, Guglielmo Rotta, Lancaster, De Siena, Fauzian Jeunesse, Caterina Lucchi, Afar, Meher Kakalia, Cheville, Zolfo, Anita Bilardi

Maurizio Berchielli, ceo and founder Continuo Showroom

THE RETURN OF THE ÈLITE

In today’s global landscape, true luxury is no longer about dreams, but power. 0.1% of consumers alone generate 37% of global spending. And the rest? Off the radar

by Angelo Ruggeri

Fashion is not for everyone, nor is it for all. Unfortunately. For years, luxury tried to seduce the mass market. Through collaborative collections, more accessible capsules, and boutiques in every corner of the world, it seemed anyone could afford at least a fragment of exclusivity. The so-called “aspirational” consumers those who bought luxury despite not being part of the élite drove the entire sector economically for over a decade. In 2013, these customers accounted for 74% of the market. Today, according to the True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight report by Altagamma and Boston Consulting Group, they have dropped to 61%, with the trend still declining. The decline is sharp, impactful, and above all structural. Reasons? Price increases, global inflation, economic instability, and falling financial confidence. 35% of these consumers have already drastically cut spending on luxury goods, peaking at 45% in China and 30% in Europe and North America. What was once the backbone of the sector now appears increasingly fragile, retreating under the cost of exclusivity.

The Silent Reign of the Top-Tier While one segment withdraws, another takes control. And this is not just a niche: it is 0.1% of global consumers who today alone account for 37% of total luxury spending worldwide. These are the top-tier, the absolute élite. These super-premium clients spend on average €360,000

a year on fashion, watches, jewelry, design, exclusive experiences, art, wines, and hospitality. That figure rises to €500,000 if you include jets, yachts, advanced wellness, luxury cars, and real estate projects. It’s not just purchasing power, but an entire luxury architecture recalibrating around them. In some categories, their influence is total. Top-tiers hold 100% of private jet and yacht spending. They control 71% of the high-end art and design market, 66% of fine wines and spirits, and 34% of watches and jewelry. Simply put: without them, luxury today would collapse.

A Demanding and (Still) Undervalued Clientele

This new élite is not easily satisfied. In fact, they pose huge challenges to brands. 80% of top-tiers desire ever more intimate, personalized experiences, shielded from public visibility. 90% demand supply chain transparency, authenticity, extreme quality, and artisanal production. Yet, despite their centrality in revenue, many brands fail to engage them properly. 60% of these super-clients say they are flooded with impersonal marketing. On average, they receive 40–50 promotional communications every month from dozens of brands, often without any real personalization. Only two out of nine brands can identify a high-potential customer through their CRM tools. 70% of them effectively remain “invisible” to commercial strategies. A paradox that weighs heavily.

The Four Seasons Private Jet

the collection

Geographies of New Wealth

Globally, extreme wealth is on the rise. North America remains the main hub for HNWIs (High Net Worth Individuals), but new powers are emerging. India and Southeast Asia, in particular, are witnessing a rapid rise of new economic élites often young, digital, and hyper-connected. Estimates today count over 940,000 individuals worldwide with very high net worth and premium spending capacity. The trend is steadily growing: an average annual increase of 9% is forecast through 2030, in both numbers and wealth volume. This reshapes the geography of the luxury market itself and demands new targeting strategies.

New Rules of the Game for Brands

This scenario calls for a strategic revolution. Brands must rediscover the authentic core of luxury: true exclusivity, quiet and distant from the noise of the masses. They must evolve from mere producers to curators of experiences. The product alone is no longer enough. Relationships, immersion, and tailored storytelling are needed. CRM strategies must become “surgical,” capable of identifying

high-value clients before they even enter the boutique. Communication must be reduced and refined: fewer emails, more real conversations. The in-store experience must transform into a ritual, a ceremony, with limited access and maximum attention. Every detail, from packaging to delivery, must convey uniqueness and respect.

Luxury Returns to Its Origins

Ultimately, the luxury sector is returning to what it always was: a world for the few. No longer an aspirational battleground, but a territory reserved for those who truly can and want to be part of it. The era of crowds in flagship stores, of entry-level bags sold as status symbols on social media, seems over. Luxury in 2025 is discreet, selective, silent yet stronger than ever. For brands, the challenge is clear: stop chasing quantity and return to cultivating the quality of relationships. Because tomorrow’s or rather today’s client doesn’t just seek an object but an identity that recognizes them, an experience that speaks only to them, a privilege that cannot be copied. And in a world craving ever more access, true power is being able to say: this is not for everyone. Global spending in the luxury

continuesto show an increase, ashighlighted by the latest available global data

sector

On the left: a moment from the wedding of billionaire Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez On the right: Kim Kardashian, model for a day on the Balenciaga runway

THE NEW SUMMER VOCABULARY

The SS 26 by Kangra is a return to essentials. An authentic, clean proposal deeply rooted in its identity: inspired by nature, its colors, raw materials, and the value of craftsmanship

Kangra’s SS26 is a return to the essentials. An authentic, clean collection deeply tied to its identity: inspired by nature, its colors, raw materials, and the value of artisanal craftsmanship. There is a summer that does not shout, but makes itself felt. A summer that does not chase excess, but asserts its presence through substance. Kangra’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection is a quiet yet powerful manifesto, placing the essence of the product, the discreet beauty of materials, and the naturalness of shapes at its core. It’s an invitation to rediscover a real, spontaneous, and free femininity. This wardrobe is born from the earth and its ancestral palette: sand, ecru, rope, clay. Tones that evoke untouched landscapes and serve as a canvas for carefully calibrated touches of green and mou, in a dialogue between balance and vitality. The beating heart of the collection is knitwear, elevated to the absolute

protagonist not only because of the breadth of the offer but for the careful selection of noble, lightweight yarns cotton, linen, stretch viscose, cotton, and silk that tell a story of genuine quality, tangible to the touch. The workmanship results from artisanal research that enhances three-dimensional textures, tactile stitches, fine stripes, lurex effects, and sequin details, all applied with restraint and intelligence to reflect the light and personality of the wearer. Silhouettes move between regular volumes and wider shapes, designed to naturally accompany the body, offering a current, relaxed fit that is never careless. This knitwear interprets the present time with grace, awareness, and functionality. Completing the proposal, flowing and airy fabrics in silk and printed stretch viscose give life to softly cut, feminine garments perfect for building a coherent, elegant total look deeply connected to the value of “well-made.”

Shots from Kangra’s new Summer 2026 campaign

THE RETURN OF THE ÜBER DESIGNERS: FASHION’S SUPER CREATIVES

Multitasking, tireless creative directors — just like Karl Lagerfeld once was. Today, Jonathan Anderson leads this new era, alongside names like Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Demna at Gucci

by Angelo Ruggeri

There’s no denying it anymore: in 2025, fashion demands much more than talent. It requires vision, stamina, and strategic intelligence. This is why the figure of the über designer is making a comeback — a creative director who not only designs but also leads, inspires, and sells. They work across multiple brands, release dozens of collections a year, build entire brand worlds, and generate major revenue. A total figure, much like Karl Lagerfeld was, simultaneously directing Chanel, Fendi, and his own label. Today, Jonathan Anderson is the new benchmark, freshly appointed creative director at Dior. With 18 collections a year under his belt, he’s officially the most prolific designer in luxury right now. And he’s not alone.

Lagerfeld’s Legacy

Karl Lagerfeld was the first true über designer. With his legendary productivity, he crafted up to 14 collections annually, shot campaigns, curated exhibitions, and wrote books. He transformed the role of the designer into that of a global brand architect, overseeing every detail and message. Today’s creatives follow his path but face new pressures: social media, instant trends, and the demand for immediate results. Every collection must be viral and profitable, every runway show a global event.

Jonathan Anderson: 18 collections, no breaks

Already helming his own label JW Anderson, Jonathan now oversees all Dior lines — men’s, women’s, Haute Couture, and cruise. Adding JW Anderson’s collections and his long-standing Uniqlo collaboration brings him to a staggering 18 collections a year. It’s an immense creative and organizational challenge, yet for him, work feels natural. Over time, he’s crafted a personal language rich in references to art, queer culture, sculpture, and theater. According to Delphine Arnault, Dior’s CEO, his “cultural intelligence” and knack for creating winning products make him perfect to write the brand’s next chapter.

Veneta, Blazy inherits the helm from Virginie Viard. Chanel is a billion-dollar machine, and leading it means far more than designing clothes — it means preserving and renewing a legendary legacy, balancing prêt-à-porter, Haute Couture, Métiers d’Art, and cruise collections. The challenge is finding harmony between tradition and innovation while maintaining a clear identity amid hyper-production.

Demna: provocation and double duty

Demna, former creative director at Balenciaga, has launched a collaboration with Gucci, marking a new chapter for Kering’s strategy. A divisive figure, both loved and criticized, Demna redefined the aesthetics of the “ugly” and conceptual. Recently, in a sort of “transition period” between brands, he’s worked for two very different houses: Gucci (launching their very first collection) and Balenciaga (preparing his last couture show). This double role demanded dual sensitivity — respecting Gucci’s history and commercial needs while preserving his own voice. It’s a unique test to see if a style can multiply without losing authenticity.

Creativity or burnout?

Behind the myth of the über designer lies a grueling pace. Designing hundreds of looks a year, managing teams, promoting the brand’s image, and meeting global market expectations bring stress, overload, and creative crises. Yet for some, like Anderson, this pace is inspiring. The key is having a clear vision that guides the whole system. Because in today’s fashion world, those who don’t evolve fast get replaced. Those who can balance creativity, coherence, and commercial success become legends.

The new rules of the game

Jonathan Anderson, Matthieu Blazy, Demna — three creatives, three approaches, one truth. The return of the über designer signals a paradigm shift: they’re no longer just designers but architects of dreams and profit. In a fast-moving industry, only those who constantly reinvent themselves while staying true to their voice survive. The future of fashion? It’s in the hands of those who can do it all. And do it well.

From left: creative directors Jonathan Anderson, Matthieu Blazy, and Demna

GRUNGE AS AN URBAN MANIFESTO

ASH’s collection is intense, blending a rebellious and metropolitan soul that fuses past, present, and future. With oversized pieces, iconic footwear, and futuristic sneakers, the style becomes a bold declaration of true freedom

ASH doesn’t whisper it shouts. For Fall-Winter 2025, the brand rewrites the rules of grunge with “The Bold Type”: a collection that asks for no permission and seeks no approval. It’s a statement. A visual declaration of free spirit, raw sensuality, and urban rebellion. Grunge? It returns to its roots but looks forward. No sterile nostalgia here: the label’s roots are in the smoky Seattle clubs of the ’80s, but it’s reborn in today’s urban jungle. The result is a dirty, lived-in... sexy aesthetic where elegance meets disobedience.

Streets, dreams, and dirty fits

Oversized, layered looks, animal prints, and a “used” palette: the FW25 collection is a sensory journey between city and wild nature. The pieces speak clearly: strength and delicacy can coexist. Bags aren’t just accessories they’re containers of creative chaos and heavy dreams. ASH stays true to its footwear DNA with iconic, personality-packed models like “Ashley,” a leather boot with a squared toe and wide heel channeling ’90s vibes with a romantic twist, and “Brendah & Britney,” studded ballerinas with punk spirit and sophisticated edge. Also featured are “Barkley,” “Quartz,” and “Noah.” The sporty side pushes the grunge style further: tech-inspired, urban, layered. “Addict Bis” returns in shiny black, silver, and roaring prints now available in a winter version. “Dragon” reinterprets the chunky sneaker with a futuristic twist: visual shock and maximum comfort. Finally, “Onyx,” “Eagle,” and “Killbill”: slip-ons in suede, mixed textures, and deconstructed layering. Urban design taken to the extreme.

Some shots from ASH’s FW 25/26 collection

TRAVEL IN STYLE

With the Spring-Summer 2026 collection, Jeanne Baret redefines the concept of activewear. Blending clean design and nature-inspired palettes, a new language of style and identity emerges

Anew season, a new direction. Jeanne Baret, an emerging brand in the premium sportswear scene, launches its Spring-Summer 2026 collection with a clear step forward: a sharper, more ambitious identity that looks to the future without losing sight of its roots. The positioning speaks to a sophisticated consumer seeking not just performance but personality, aesthetics, and vision.

The aesthetic of exploration

Some images of the new SS 26 collection by Jeanne Baret

TRANSPARENT ALLURE

Lightness, texture, and volume: Daniele Fiesoli’s SS 26 collection brings lingerie to the forefront of everyday wear. Sensory, layered pieces express a discreet, elegant, and conscious femininity

For the upcoming summer season, Daniele Fiesoli presents the N_01 Collection a refined reflection on contemporary femininity: the body becomes a landscape to inhabit and reveal. Lingerie breaks free from its traditional roles to transform into everyday clothing. Tops, bustiers, bodysuits, and slips rise to the surface, starring in breathable, expressive silhouettes. Lightness and tension, transparency and tactility coexist, giving life to a sensory and modern wardrobe. Layering becomes a storytelling tool: each overlap conveys identity, choice, and subtle sensuality. Fabrics alternate between ethereal taffeta, fluid viscose, raw linen, soft cotton, and vibrant silk. Textures converse, contrast, and harmonize, creating chiaroscuro effects and volumes that turn every piece into a tactile and visual experience. The craftsmanship and artisanal details confirm the brand’s tailored approach, where elegance and care are inseparable. Neutral and sophisticated tones amplify the layering and lightness of the garments, modulating light and shadow on the moving body. A woman who chooses to reveal herself freely, with elegance and awareness. The SS 26 collection is not just fashion, but emotion: every piece speaks of skin, touch, and movement. Daniele Fiesoli builds an evocative wardrobe where the body is the subject not the object of a free and conscious beauty. A collection that invites graceful unveiling, blending elegance, poetry, and modernity.

Some shots from Daniele Fiesoli’s SS 26 collection

UNALOME

L’Unalome è un simbolo buddhista che rappresenta il percorso che seguiamo nella vita; mostra il nostro cammino, rappresentando graficamente le decisioni più importanti che abbiamo preso e le loro conseguenze.

MORE THAN JUST AN ACCESSORY

Making shoes isn’t only about style it’s about values, passion and identity. Alberto Fasciani, artisan and entrepreneur, introduces Essential, a collection designed for a younger generation that wants quality at an accessible price

In the heart of Marche, where shoemaking is more than a craft, Fasciani continues to tell a story of excellence, dedication and authenticity through every creation. For him, making shoes doesn’t just mean producing them: it means stitching into each pair the emotions, conscious choices and daily responsibility of true craftsmanship. “Whoever wears my shoes should feel they’ve owned them forever, from the very first moment,” he says — a motto that has guided him since the start of his business and helped turn his name into a byword for refinement, balance and Italian style worldwide. At the core of the brand are bespoke riding boots, crafted from fine leathers with sartorial precision. In this niche market, where personalisation is everything, the Marchesborn label has earned global recognition, dressing some of the world’s most decorated riders. But Fasciani hasn’t stood still. From equestrian gear to men’s and women’s fashion, from motorsports to social causes, the brand has evolved without ever betraying its founding principles: quality, craftsmanship, and made in Italy. Each pair is conceived as an extension of the wearer’s identity – not just an accessory, but a companion in style, in travel, in life.

SS 26: Essential

For Spring/Summer 2026, Alberto Fasciani sets himself a new challenge: Essential, a line created to democratise excellence. It preserves the brand’s core values while opening up to a broader, younger, more dynamic audience. The goal is clear: to reach that market segment where quality meets desirability. Essential is an entry point into the Fasciani universe for those who don’t yet know it – a first step toward a lasting relationship with a label that never compromises on elegance or responsibility. Unlike the brand’s heritage collections, Essential keeps high-quality leathers but reimagines shapes,

Some images from the SS 26 “Essential” collection

structures and style. The result is a casual, trendy, smart offer for anyone looking for comfort without giving up good taste. Think colourful, lightweight shoes you can slip on anywhere: from lawns to beaches, city streets to far-flung travels.This collection is a promise: an “essential” product, never ordinary, for confident, free-spirited women and laid-back, effortless men.

Ph: © Alina

Fejzo

THE NEW FACE OF URBAN LAYERING

Bomboogie’s SS26 redefines the art of layering, transforming it into a fluid language where functionality and refinement engage in seamless dialogue without compromise

With Bomboogie, layering is no longer just a style exercise it becomes a true declaration of freedom. The 2-layer waterproof fabric raincoat embodies the most technical dimension of the collection, designed to face the city’s changing conditions without sacrificing a refined aesthetic. In contrast, the ethereal lightness of voile transparencies applied to trousers and shirts introduces a play of sensuality and movement, turning each look into a dynamic composition of protection and seduction.

A style laboratory

Silhouettes become loose, airy, and relaxed, yet always refined by details that echo the military world: functional pockets, strategic closures, thin belts that define the silhouette. It’s a mix and match that enhances the brand’s urban identity, blending comfort and structure into a distinctive stylistic signature. The color palette moves through neutral and natural tones, designed to amplify versatility and leave room for personalization. A sober, metropolitan elegance, capable of adapting both to the fast-paced rhythm of the day and the more rarefied atmosphere of the evening. With this collection, the brand reaffirms its core mission: to interpret the city as a style laboratory, creating a wardrobe that merges performance with lightness, technicality with femininity.

Some images from the SS26 collection by Bomboogie

FASHION FORWARD

Fashion in Flux: Assomoda Launches a Conference to Rethink the Future of Distribution. The event is set for October 27, 2025, at Assomoda-Confcommercio’s historic Milan headquarters.

by Cristiano Zanni

Italy’s fashion market is under pressure. Chains of store and showroom closures are reshaping retail. To navigate this critical moment with clarity, Assomoda is hosting a high-level conference on October 27, 2025, at the historic Sala Colucci, Confcommercio Milano. Titled “Fashion Forward: Fashion Distribution Between Crisis, Change, and Opportunity”, the event invites reflection on the present to anticipate the future. In collaboration with Federazione Moda Italia, Assomoda will present data from two key studies: Sita Ricerca (Pambianco) on wholesale, and Dimark on physical retail covering distribution, store profiles, buying behavior, and emerging scenarios.The day opens at 9:30 a.m. with remarks from Confcommercio national secretary Marco Barbieri and Lombardy’s fashion councilor Barbara Mazzali. Industry leaders follow, including Carlo Capasa (Camera della Moda), Luca Sburlati (Confindustria Moda), Giulio Felloni (Federazione Moda Italia), and Maurizio Governa (Assomoda). Digital innovation is also on the agenda, with Paola Generali (Assintel) discussing AI’s role in fashion. The core of the conference features the Sita Ricerca and Dimark studies, followed by a roundtable moderated by Marc Sondermann, with Claudio Marenzi (Herno, Montura), Andrea Colzani (Federmoda Milano, SportIT), and Marco De Albertis (Assomoda). A key opportunity to rethink distribution models, explore new strategies, and reaffirm the central role of Italian fashion. The future is built today and it starts in Milan. We discussed this with Assomoda president Maurizio Governa

Why organize this conference?

years, more than 20,000 stores have closed, and fashion agencies dropped 4.8% in 2024 alone. We needed an open forum to assess the situation and explore shared solutions.

How will the conference unfold?

We’ve involved institutions and the main industry players from Marco Barbieri (Confcommercio) and Barbara Mazzali (Lombardy Region) to the presidents of Confindustria Moda, Camera della Moda, Federmoda, and Assomoda. Innovative contributions, such as Paola Generali’s talk on AI applications, will complement the discussion. The final roundtable, moderated by Marc Sondermann, will foster direct dialogue between brands and distributors.

Which data will you rely on?

We commissioned Sita/Pambianco for wholesale research and Dimark for retail. Comparing these insights is essential to outline concrete scenarios.

Is the role of agents recognized?

Not enough. Their value is often underestimated, even though their work can make or break a brand. At Tavoli della Moda (MIMIT), I presented five proposals to finally give this key role the recognition it deserves.

The sector is going through a complex phase: over the past five

Scan the QR code to register for the conference

ASSOMODA

It is the historic association of fashion and sports agents and distributors, founded in 1969 and today a National Federation affiliated with Confcommercio. Based in Milan, with international contacts in Barcelona, London, and the United States, it serves as a point of reference for agents and showrooms, safeguarding their role and enhancing their professionalism.

The headquarters of Assomoda-Confcommercio

Maurizio Governa, President of Assomoda

CREATIVE ROOTS

Fauzian Jeunesse transforms Italian tradition into uniquely original shoes, blending craftsmanship, innovative details, and contemporary boldness

Behind every pair of Fauzian Jeunesse shoes lies a story of creativity and Italian mastery. Founded by Fabrizio Mandolesi, son of shoemaker Vittorio Mandolesi, the brand made its debut in Italy in the early 2000s, quickly capturing attention with shoes that combine daring design and flawless craftsmanship. Each model is designed to surprise and tell a unique story of style and innovation.

The language of style

Every collection is a journey through floral embroidery, exotic textures like python and ostrich, metallic details, and vintage finishes that challenge convention. Iconic models include ankle boots with floral embroidery and western boots reimagined with a contemporary twist. Fauzian Jeunesse’s style is vintage and retro, yet always with a modern edge. The meticulous care for materials and Italian manufacturing ensures each shoe is a small design masterpiece, able to surprise and stand out, telling a story without ever becoming cliché.

Tradition meets modernity

The brand moves nimbly within an ever-evolving market. From closing physical stores to rising demand for innovation, Fabrizio Mandolesi personally oversees design and production, balancing craftsmanship with modernity. Collections are available on major luxury platforms, making each model a sought-after item and a testament to the typical Italian savoir-faire. Fauzian Jeunesse bridges past and present, offering footwear that combines original aesthetics, quality, and personality, establishing itself as a brand that tells uncompromising fashion stories.

Some shots of Fauzian Jeunesse boots

MADE INITALY STYLE

CRISPI, a historic brand born in the heart of the Montebelluna footwear district, celebrates its 50th anniversary by presenting Perfetta: an urban-outdoor shoe that stands out at first glance

With a history that began in 1975, CRISPI has masterfully combined craftsmanship and innovation, becoming a benchmark in the world of technical mountain and outdoor footwear. At the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, we met Luca Sarnataro, Global Sales Director of the brand, who shared with us the highlights of the new urban-outdoor collection a symbol of style, exclusivity, and performance. He also spoke about the brand’s evolution, the values that drive it, and what it means to represent Italy today on the international stage of the prestigious Florentine event.

Luca Sarnataro, global sales director CRISPI

CRISPI turns 50: what does this milestone mean for you? First of all, we are extremely proud. Our story began in 1975 thanks to the vision of our founder and current president, Alessandro Marcolin. At a time when Montebelluna was entering the trekking market with increasingly larger industrial volumes, Alessandro had the courage to focus on a premium product one defined by quality and exclusivity. A technical shoe, yet extremely comfortable, entirely designed and produced in Italy through a fully Made in Italy supply chain.

A bold choice that went against market trends at the time. Exactly. While the market was offering stiff shoes that took days to break in, Marcolin flipped the paradigm: “The shoe must adapt to the foot, not the other way around.” This idea came directly

from walking in our local mountains, where early enthusiasts complained about how uncomfortable technical footwear was back then. That’s how CRISPI was born. Combining experience in the world of moccasins a shoe type known for being soft and embracing with the need for high-performance technical footwear, something unique was created. Success quickly followed: our first international markets Switzerland, Austria, Norway enthusiastically embraced a product made to withstand humidity, cold, and challenging terrains.

Why did you choose the name “Perfetta”?

Is it your manifesto?

Absolutely. Perfetta is designed to represent the full expression of our know-how. An urban-outdoor shoe that grabs your attention at first glance: modern design and unique style, in a high-quality shoe that combines comfort and performance thanks also to the use of premium leathers, developed exclusively for us, the inclusion of the Gore-Tex inner membrane, and the application of a CRISPI-designed Vibram sole, hand-assembled. It’s available in a fall-winter version, waterproof and thermally insulated, and a summer Lite version, more breathable and lightweight. Perfect for everyday wear.

Your brand philosophy in a sentence?

No compromise. The highest level of urban performance, comfort, and style while wearing the true essence of Italian craftsmanship.

Some images from the new “Perfetta” collection by CRISPI

VELOCE Power and Elegance on the Water

Italia Yachts’ Veloce series is designed for those seeking pure thrills and exhilarating performance. Agile and responsive hulls, high-performance sail plans, and a design that cuts through the water with elegance: every Veloce invites you to experience the sea in a dynamic and passionate way, without sacrificing the comfort and distinctive style of Italia Yachts.

STEPS THAT TELL A STORY

Boots have never taken center stage quite like this. With artisanal details and bold silhouettes, they elevate every look with a timeless allure.

by Maria Pina Ciuffreda

BACK TO TRADITION

With a design rooted in workwear aesthetics and military heritage, Fortela rewrites the rules of contemporary elegance. Crafted from premium leathers and hand-finished, these boots blend vintage soul and modern spirit with ease. A must-have for those who embrace an authentic and grounded style.

WHERE THE JOURNEY BEGINS

Lucchese redefines the idea of heritage. These handmade boots become statement pieces for those who see movement as a form of elegance. Warm earth tones blend with bold lines and couturelevel detailing, striking a perfect balance between authenticity and modernity.

MADE IN TEXAS

These aren’t just boots — they’re wearable works of art. Rocketbuster pushes the boundaries between fashion, craftsmanship, and pop culture. Bold colors, custom stitching, and Texan wit come together in unique designs that speak of creative freedom and unconventional flair. Each pair is a statement: handmade, oversized, and proud to be.

THE WESTERN MEETS THE CITY

Buffalo reinvents the western look with an urban twist. The Mid and Hi models, featuring black and grey denim uppers, fuse contemporary edge with tradition. Block heels and varied shaft heights offer two bold takes on the same DNA ideal for those seeking character and metropolitan style

AN UNEXPECTED TOUCH

Loriblu blends elegance and bold character in a contemporary design. The fringed boots, crafted from high-quality leather and finished with care, bring movement and personality to any outfit. Perfect for the modern woman who wants to stand out with a unique touch without giving up sophistication.

REBELLIOUS SOUL

With boho influences and frontier flair, El Vaquero creates boots that merge the rugged elegance of the Wild West with Italian craftsmanship. Artisanal details, fringes, and vintage accents transform each pair into an icon of free-spirited, unconventional style.

'90S SEDUCTION

Inspired by the bold spirit of fashion icons from the 1990s and reinterpreted with a modern twist, Mary Kate is Les Filles d’Eva’s take on the timeless Mary Jane. With a pointed toe, stiletto heel, and crafted in leather or suede, it’s available in black, camel, and bordeaux a new must-have for those seeking femininity with edge.

URBAN ATTITUDE

Whether you're walking city streets or venturing into the unknown, Satorisan walks with you. These boots turn every step into an experience of uncompromising comfort and style. Made from sustainable materials and crafted with artisanal care, they combine clean lines, smart details, and unexpected lightness.

HARMONIOUS EXPERIMENTATION

Testoni explores new volumes and materials, where sharp tailoring meets soft surfaces and innovative inserts. The collection speaks to those who view fashion as a space for style and experimentation, stepping outside conventional boundaries.

HERITAGE

Red Wing’s Engineer boot is more than footwear it’s an icon that bridges history and

BRITISH ELEGANCE

Far from the clichés of flashy luxury, Church’s celebrates refinement through thoughtful proportions, flawless finishes, and a sensitivity that makes every detail matter — transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary.

THE SHAPE OF LUXURY

With sculptural silhouettes and refined detailing, Casadei transforms shoes into bold statements of style. Masterfully crafted leathers, innovative heels, and a sophisticated play on texture and color open a new chapter for the brand one that continues to evolve while remaining true to Italian craftsmanship.

BETWEEN MEMORY AND VISION

Fluid lines, lightweight layering, and artisanal details define the new womenswear trends, where romance and experimentation blend seamlessly. Sheer chiffons, raw textures, and botanical patterns evoke a sense of natural, lived-in elegance

by Maria Pina Ciuffreda

THE PERFECT BALANCE

Essential yet refined, the total look by Duno blends tailored precision with summer freshness. The double-breasted suede jacket is paired with pleated linen-blend Bermuda shorts striking the perfect balance between formal and casual.

MY OWN WAY

No fixed rules-just the natural evolution of a story that began last winter and is now rewritten with lightness, wit, and freedom. Marbell ’s SS26 collection is a new chapter in a personal style narrative, marked by layered looks, signature checks, and garments that transform with their wearer.

NOMADIC ELEGANCE

A journey suspended between romantic 19th-century influences and rebellious modernity: Avant Toi ’s SS26 collection fuses historic drapery with raw finishes in a fluid, poetic aesthetic. Irregular textures, metallic touches, and retro details reveal a wardrobe for the pioneers of a new style.

CONTEMPORARY LUXURY

Malloni embarks on a journey between tradition and innovation, offering garments that accompany the modern woman with grace and elegance throughout her day. The collection’s personality and sophistication elevate the everyday into an experience of understated luxury.

FREE SPIRIT

Manuel Ritz plays with the tension between tailored structure and summery ease, mixing soft volumes with defined silhouettes in a refined palette that ranges from sandy neutrals to vibrant color accents. Technical fabrics and fine cottons meet androgynous details, creating a versatile wardrobe for a dynamic woman.

worlds in a sophisticated urban aesthetic, where denim is reimagined with unique washes, tuxedo-inspired details, and fluid fabrics like lyocell. Alongside jeans, tailored pieces in black viscose, crisp cotton, and unisex pinstripes take shape-along with shirts and dresses in printed chambray and poplin, perfect from day to night.

ARCHITECTURAL LANGUAGE

LABO.ART’s “less is more” philosophy shapes a design approach defined by clean silhouettes, precise cuts, and harmonious volumes that echo architecture and conceptual art. Carefully curated color palettes and high-quality materials contribute to the creation of a contemporary “uniform” that transcends trends and stands the test of time.

STYLE COORDINATES

Inspired by masculine influences, Murphy&Nye ’s SS26 collection reinvents technical fabrics and volumes with a feminine fit, turning every piece into a companion of movement and character. The delicate palette ranging from dusty hues to urban khaki follows a confident woman navigating the city with energy and purpose.

THE GARMENT AS PERSONAL SPACE

UMITBENAN continues to craft an auteur narrative where the wardrobe becomes an intimate story and a conscious act. Clothing is a space to inhabit naturally: between cashmere, linen, silk, and suede, every fabric interacts with light and body, conveying a sense of relaxed, authentic sensuality.

BETWEEN DREAM AND REALITY

Momonì explores a modern, authentic femininity blending comfort with sophistication, elegance with practicality in a constant dialogue between tailoring tradition and contemporary experimentation. Each garment becomes a true declaration of personality, for creative women ready to rewrite the rules of their wardrobes

READY FOR ADVENTURE

WEAVES OF LIGHT

From deconstructed trenches to tailored bermuda shorts, every piece in Tagliatore’s SS26 collection tells a new story of sophistication through fluid volumes, crinkled textures, and refined details. The color palette ranges from timeless neutrals to sophisticated shades of lavender, mint green, and blush pink. A collection that boldly defines a deeply modern elegance.

IDENTITY IN MOTION

Premiata continues to redefine the codes of urban luxury, merging stylistic research, technical innovation, and a contemporary spirit. The collection is a manifesto of authenticity and dynamism, where each piece expresses a vision of movement that is both aesthetic and attitudinal.

Entirely made in Italy, the COLMAR boot combines craftsmanship and performance in a high-quality product. Waterproof genuine leather, guaranteed durability, and an outdoor soul designed to take on any terrain thanks to the high-grip Vibram sole.za.

THE NEW HORIZON

A free spirit, cosmopolitan vibes, and a forward-looking aesthetic: Destination Haway blends exotic references, urban design, and a genderless attitude. With clean lines, vibrant palettes, and innovative materials, the brand tells a visual story that transcends seasons a fresh take on the timeless desire to escape.

NO RULES

Essentiel Antwerp stays true to its visionary identity: eclectic mixes of colors, bold prints, and oversized silhouettes come together in a bold, surprising fashion story. Blending streetwear inspiration with couture-level details, the Belgian brand invites us to rewrite urban dress codes with flair and freedom.

BETWEEN CITY AND NATURE

Blauer USA explores new frontiers of urban style with a collection that merges outdoor spirit, functionality, and contemporary design. Created to accompany the pace of everyday life, the SS 26 collection unfolds across four themes and delivers an authentic aesthetic made of technical fabrics, iconic details, and a versatile vision suited to both city streets and wide-open spaces.

FLOREAL MOOD

YC WHYCI Milano interprets the SS 26 season with a polo shirt that balances lightness and movement. The silk-cotton crepon enhances the floral print with a soft, natural drape, turning the polo into a key piece of the modern wardrobe perfect for those who seek subtle distinction and refined details.

EYES ON THE SEA

Gran Sasso’s SS 26 collection is a refined homage to nautical lifestyle and the timeless charm of the French Riviera. An aesthetic journey through yacht clubs, sea breezes, and Italian craftsmanship, where signature knitwear is reimagined with modern grace. Luxurious yarns shape garments that are light, enveloping, and designed to move naturally with the body.

SPORTY-CHIC

For SS 26, The VerticaLine takes a playful turn. Sorbet shades - peach, mint, lime, strawberry, and cherry - chase each other through a fresh, vibrant palette. The design stays true to the brand’s iconic silhouette but is enhanced by smart touches like contrast stitching and tactile textures.

MEDITERRANEAN JOURNEY

Cruna unveils a womenswear collection that celebrates summer as a full sensory and cultural experience. A visual narrative unfolding between cityscapes and coastal settings, blending tailored elegance with local inspiration. Premium materials and refined details express an authentic and sophisticated lifestyle.

LIGHT AND MATTER

Scaglione cays homage to Italian knitwear, merging craftsmanship with a contemporary sensibility. Natural yarns and meticulous construction meet fluid lines and embracing shapes striking a balance between softness and strength.

HARMONIES

Relaxed silhouettes, refined textures, and a color palette that shifts between earthy tones and modern accents. Marc O’Polo’s latest collection captures a subtle yet assertive femininity. Garment-dyed cotton outerwear, soft tailoring, and structured knitwear define a capsule dominated by hues like warm taupe, graphite blue, and powder pink.

THE RETURN OF A CLASSIC

Lotto Leggenda reimagines its legacy with Autograph Pearl a feminine take on the iconic 1970s tennis shoe once worn by legends. The classic silhouette is updated with a sophisticated twist: soft leather, luminous details, and refined finishes that retain the sport heritage of the original while elevating it to a new level of essential elegance.

WHITE AS MEMORY

With the collection Into The Memory Of White, ZONA20 MILANO pens a new stylistic and narrative chapter, where white becomes the color of time a blank canvas for intimate, fleeting, and universal stories. Inspired by the work of South Korean author Han Kang, the SS26 collection evokes inner landscapes filled with summer breezes, starry silences, and faded memories.

MOVEMENT AS A CREATIVE STATEMENT

For Dienèe, movement is more than a concept it’s a manifesto. Geometric lines and minimalist forms merge into a new kind of fluidity, reflecting the brand’s ongoing evolution. Among the highlights is the debut of the maxi-format GATE a sculptural handbag offered in multiple

A WELL-EXECUTED PLAN

What Maha Amsterdam’s New Nike Release tells us

by Marco Rizzi

It might seem counterintuitive, but the slowdown in the sneaker market has had some positive effects on the industry. With hype cooling off, impulse buys are down, and decisions are more considered, putting a spotlight on timing, communication, brand storytelling, and the context in which products are launched. In a way, the market has forced many brands to work smarter, highlight past missteps, and reward the right choices. A perfect example is the launch of Maha Amsterdam’s Nike Total 90 Shox Magia, hitting shelves in early July. Examining Nike’s collaboration with the Dutch store reveals meticulous planning: every detail carefully considered. Nike focused on a female audience, choosing a lifestyle silhouette inspired by football and releasing it just weeks before a women’s European Championship that drew unprecedented attention. Maha, which has spent a decade centering women in the sneaker world, was the ideal partner. As shared in HUB Style Issue #52, founder Saskia von Hofwegen created Maha to prioritize women, not as an afterthought to a traditional retail model. Allowing Maha to lead this collaboration, especially in its tenth anniversary year, recognizes the store’s persistence and hard work particularly at a time when women’s interest in sneakers was far smaller than today. Launching in Amsterdam also sends a statement: legitimizing female-focused stores in a city with deep sneaker and street culture roots, and a major European football hub. The choice of a canvas-style model for this first project is no accident. Over the past year, football has grown as a global lifestyle trend, particularly among women. Tastemakers on social media increasingly seek unique finds on resale platforms or thrift shelves, rather than wearing what brands gift them. Nike tapped into this by reintroducing early 2000s styles that blended football boot lines with popular soles like Air Max and Shox. Reimagining the Total 90 Shox Magia was therefore spot-on, directly addressing a niche audience. Maha delivered impeccably, executing a flawless campaign with stunning photography and a series of events that engaged Amsterdam’s scene. So what does this project reveal? That a thoughtful, well-orchestrated release is not only possible today, but in many ways echoes pre-hype strategies: careful choices, coherent campaigns, and involving the right stores and people without the polarizing figures who often distract from the product itself.

HERE’S I.S.R.U, THE DIGITAL SPACE CAMP

It’s only September, but the release of the new Mars Yard is already one of the standout sneaker moments of 2025. If there was any doubt that Nike and New York artist Tom Sachs could mend their professional relationship, the massive operation launched for the return of the NikeCraft project was completely unexpected. In mid-July, Sachs unveiled I.S.R.U (in-situ research utilization), a digital and global version of his now-famous space training camps. Through various challenges, users were able to accumulate points needed to apply for the purchase of the highly coveted Nike Mars Yard 3.0, releasing this September.

SZA IS THE NEW ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF VANS

Vans, the iconic Californian brand now owned by the VF Corporation, has announced SZA as its new artistic director. The singer, songwriter, and fivetime Grammy Award winner will actively contribute to the development of collections and upcoming communication campaigns, including the recent launch of the Knu Skool, shot by Sophie Jones and styled by Alejandra Hernandez. Currently, the American artist is headlining the acclaimed Grand National Tour alongside Kendrick Lamar — a global tour that started in April and will wrap up in December in Australia.

BRENDAN DUNNE LEAVES COMPLEX FOR STOCKX

Brendan Dunne, writer for Sneaker News and later for Complex - as well as one of the main faces of the U.S. media hub’s digital programming - has announced his departure after nearly 15 years to join StockX as senior director of customer community and engagement. Over the years, Dunne has established himself as one of the most authoritative voices in the sneaker world, covering many of the decade’s most significant events. His experience telling stories about both the latest releases and complex topics to a broad audience will surely prove valuable in his new role at StockX, which is seeking fresh communication channels to navigate the secondary market’s current crisis.

HAGEL CELEBRATES TEN YEARS WITH A FESTIVAL

Studio Hagel, the renowned Dutch design studio founded by Mathieu Hagelaars, is turning ten years old and has decided to mark this milestone with three days of activities, exhibitions, and workshops in Amsterdam. The project will showcase a decade of prototypes, experiments, and official collaborations, highlighting the journey taken by Hagelaars and his team. Workshops will be supported by Puma, Veja, and ASICS, giving participants the chance to work closely with the Hagel team amidst sneakers and creative inspiration.

SALEHE BEMBURY THINKS BIG

Salehe Bembury is now one of the key figures in the sneaker world. During the recent fashion weeks in Paris and Copenhagen, he appeared publicly wearing several colorways of a mysterious shoe, which insiders say is the first model of a new independent brand he founded within Spunge, his personal creative project. This would represent a natural and further step forward, after lending his creative genius first to YEEZY, then Versace, and later through numerous collaborations with brands including Crocs, Vans, New Balance, Brandblack, and Puma.

METAGIRL STUDIO DEBUTS WITH SAUCONY

After weeks of teasers, the Saucony Paramount “Daughter of the Moon” by Metagirl Studio - the alias of Italian designer Caterina Mongillo - is finally available. Following a career in more traditional footwear design, Caterina made a name for herself online with her magical, ethereal customization projects, heavily inspired by Y2K aesthetics. This marks her first official collaboration with Saucony, launched after nearly two years of development. The designer worked closely with the American brand to perfect every detail from the color palette to the signature heel shell, which was 3D-printed, scanned, and modified for largescale production.

DIADORA JOINS END’S 20TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

Diadora is making headlines again after a quiet period that had left many longtime fans concerned. The brand returns with a new collaborative project in partnership with END Clothing. This special Made in Italy N9000 was created to celebrate END’s 20th anniversary. The British retailer, originally from Newcastle and now also present in Milan, opted for a mix of smooth, brushed, and microperforated suede, in a soft pink base with white details. The colorway draws inspiration from the classic “strawberries & cream,” a traditional summer dessert and iconic Wimbledon treat. END and Diadora’s long-standing partnership has produced several releases over the years, the latest commemorating the opening of END’s Milan store.

SALOMON AND BODEGA REUNITE

Despite a turbulent period - including the permanent closure of its Los Angeles store, a temporary shutdown of its iconic Boston location, and a major internal restructuring - Bodega continues to do what it does best: create standout collaborations. This time, it’s with Salomon, who entrusted the U.S. retailer with its classic XT-4 model a trail running silhouette that has played a key role in Salomon’s shift into the lifestyle scene. Bodega’s take, dubbed “The Glider,” features an outdoor-inspired colorway enhanced with vibrant accents and bold details, now a signature of designer Andrew White.

SECOND PROJECT FOR HOKA AND _J.L-A.L_

It’s been two years since the first collaboration between _J.L-A.L_ and Hoka a pair of Tor Ultras that became a huge media and commercial success, and also introduced many to the visionary work of Londonbased designer Jean-Luc Ambridge-Lavelle. Now, the two brands reunite to launch two new colorways of the Mafate X, a trail-running model from the Franco-Californian brand. With its sharp, high-tech design, the Mafate X aligns perfectly with the utilitarian and futuristic aesthetic of _J.L-A.L_ apparel. Both colorways are already available at select top-tier retailers worldwide.

VERDY DESIGNS LATEST NEW BALANCE FOR DSM

Could this be the surprise New Balance of the year? While many were busy enjoying their summer holidays, New Balance and Japanese artist Verdy took to Instagram to announce the release of a UK-made 991v2, produced in limited quantities and sold exclusively at the gift shop inside Verdy’s curated space at Dover Street Market London. True to NB tradition, there are no flashy gimmicks: just rich brown suede, hemp-toned mesh, leather accents, and custom embroidery. The few pairs available in London sold out instantly, and for now, there’s no word on a wider release.

MIZUNO REINVENTS THE ICONIC MORELIA

The Japanese brand Mizuno was one of the standout names at the recent Paris Fashion Week, making waves with parties, events, and a few sneak peeks at upcoming releases. One of the biggest talking points on social media was a unique version of the classic Morelia boot famously worn by legends like Rivaldo — reimagined with a hybrid design mounted on a Wave Prophecy sole. The iconic black, white, and red version was produced in a limited edition and gifted to a select few brand friends during Paris Fashion Week, while an all-black version was released over the summer to celebrate the Morelia’s 40th anniversary.

LOUIS VUITTON EMBRACES FOOTBALL TOO

Debuted during the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, the Louis Vuitton Footprint Soccer Sneaker is one of the most recognizable products from Pharrell Williams’ tenure as creative director of LV’s menswear line, a role he took on two years ago. Made from lamb nappa leather, the sneaker draws inspiration from 1990s football boots, echoing design elements such as the fold-over tongue and stitched panel patterns. The footwear division at Louis Vuitton is now led by Thibo Denis a visionary designer formerly at Dior who, given current trends, may continue to draw from the world of football in future collections.

NIKE “FREEZES” ITS CLASSICS

While the world’s attention was on the Inter vs. Paris Saint-Germain clash at the UEFA Champions League Final in Munich, Nike revealed one of its most ambitious projects: Nike Cryoshot a special pack where some of the brand’s most iconic football models are reimagined in lifestyle form, with cleats “frozen” inside transparent soles. So far, we’ve seen reworked versions of the Tiempo and the R9, along with a special Patta Amsterdam edition that appeared in the stands at the Allianz Arena. However, no official release details have been announced yet.

PUMA DRAWS FROM ITS ARCHIVES

In this current wave of early-2000s inspiration, Puma has a head start thanks to a rich archive of models from one of its most successful eras a time of world champions and record-breaking sprinters. The highlight of Summer 2025 has been the VS-1, a sleek silhouette inspired by the V1.06 and V1.08 models, released in two colorways featuring mesh and chrome synthetic leather, with greyblue and pearl-pink bases. The path for future footwear collections seems clear now it’s up to Puma to fully capitalize on its major advantage over competitors: its heritage.

ADIDAS REINTRODUCES THE PREDATOR IN A LIFESTYLE VERSION

The Predator is adidas’ most iconic and long-running football boot line, worn over the past 30 years by generations of stars from Zidane to Riquelme, Kaká, David Beckham, and Jude Bellingham. This spring, adidas Originals the brand’s lifestyle division revisited its archive and selected the Predator Absolute, originally released during the 2006 World Cup, to create a hybrid model featuring the “spring” sole from the Megaride. To launch the shoe, adidas partnered with Kith, setting up a goal in the middle of Manhattan and holding a penalty shootout lottery to give away the new model.

WOMEN, FASHION, AND FOOTBALL

From luxury houses to streetwear brands, it seems everyone has fallen for football. What should we expect?

by Marco Rizzi

Subcultures have long been a key source of inspiration for fashion. Over the decades, tiny niches have grown into central themes for entire collections, even entire seasons, spotlighting elements that define small but passionate communities. By now, we’re used to this, and sensitivity is crucial especially when discussing football, and in particular women’s football: a fast-growing field long overlooked, suddenly at the center of attention from major fashion players and trade media. To get a clearer picture, we spoke with Naomi Accardi, author and editorial consultant. Naomi has covered fashion and football for publications including Mundial Mag and the UK-based Season Zine, and recently co-founded Systemarosa, a hybrid creative studio and vintage sourcing platform offering a new female perspective on football, fashion, and design.

Did you expect football and its early-2000s aesthetic to become such a broad trend?

“I knew it was coming eventually. Sometimes I’m surprised it took so long for such a universally loved sport to enter fashion. Its current mainstream popularity shows how football’s perception is shifting. Wearing a football jersey used to mark you as uncool; now fashion recognizes its potential to monetize a once-niche habit. Personally, I’m not a fan of how commodified it has become, especially since jerseys and team colors once symbolized community and belonging. Today, people wear them on the street without even understanding their meaning.”

Sportswear brands are now paying more attention to women. Is this genuine interest or opportunism?

“It’s well known that women spend more on wardrobes than men, so certainly a lot of the market is opportunistic. That said, women’s football is experiencing a sort of revival, so some projects are authentic. I’d estimate about 80% opportunistic, 20% genuine.”

Football has become a clear draw for attention. Do you think recent football-inspired sneaker drops can achieve the same popularity as vintage jerseys, or is it a tougher sell?

“I think the peak was reached with Adidas Samba. Spike-studded sneakers felt like a social media joke they’re dangerous on asphalt. Nike is pushing the T90s hard, but the reissue came too late in the trend cycle. So far, I’ve only seen gifted pairs on influencers, and it’s not the same frenzy as the early 2000s. Selling these volumes will be tough.”

European Championships have boosted interest, with brands organizing activations and launches. Could this attention help women’s football grow and gain proper exposure?

“I hope so, but I’m cautious. The issue isn’t brand investment Leagues and clubs themselves don’t invest enough, and financial returns are still low compared to men’s football. Brand visibility helps, but it’s a small part of what’s needed. True growth will require more commitment from fans too.”

Naomi Accardi, co-founder Systemarosa

Ph: © Glauco Canalis