HUB Style #04-2025 - UK version by Sport Press

Settefili Cashmere

THE NEW THREADS OF LUXURY

Amid a bustling calendar packed with events — from Pitti Uomo 108 to Fashion Week and international trade fairs — HUB Style returns with its fourth issue of 2025. As always, it offers a dual perspective: firmly grounded in the realities of data and strategy, yet equally tuned to capture the moods, trends, and emotions that the fashion world generously offers—especially to those patient and attentive enough to read its signals and visions. Today, more than ever, understanding fashion means grasping its ongoing transformations. And ideally, doing so in real time.

A clear sign of this evolution is the widespread success of the Skipper polo — also known as the Johnny Collar — which stars in this issue’s Special Feature. With its open collar and buttonless design, it has become the emblem of the perfect balance between relaxed aesthetics and sartorial precision. Always with quality at its core, as reflected in the interpretations by brands featured here: from Gran Sasso to John Smedley, Filippo De Laurentiis to Kangra, and including Settefili Cashmere, Mauro Ottaviani, and Arovescio, which emphasizes its fluidity across genders. A modern Dolce Vita emerges — combining comfort, heritage, and noble materials like Egyptian cotton, linen, and silk.

The numbers back up the trend: in 2023, knitwear overtook shirts in Italian menswear, capturing 26.1% of sell-out versus 16.5%. Globally, knitwear is projected to reach $157 billion by 2029. The message is clear: comfort has become luxury, simplicity a new code. Driving this shift is the growing rise of “quiet luxury,” explored in our From Fashion column. Today’s luxury prefers to whisper rather than shout — speaking through impeccable fabrics, clean silhouettes, and an understated elegance that has become a cultural symbol. It’s a conscious aesthetic resonating in collections and atmospheres from brands like Loro Piana, The Row, Totême, and Montecore, with its “Beyond Time” project blending fashion, design, and memory.

This theme runs through the Cover Story, centered on Daniele Fiesoli. Rooted in Tuscan artisanal tradition, his brand has chosen the path of coherence and meaningful creativity: initiatives like “Sowing Beauty,” where melliferous flower seeds are embedded in tags, remind us that fashion can — and should — contribute to transforming the world.

There are dozens of other rich insights throughout this issue, which we invite you to explore at the right pace. Here, we highlight two more, united by a common thread: retail. Our regular focus on multibrand retailers is enriched this month by two valuable case studies: Michele Inzerillo in Palermo and Braun Hamburg in Germany. Both members of Histores — Italy’s first network of independent boutiques with their own branding — they offer two complementary visions: deep local roots combined with global ambition. Their carefully curated physical stores and mature digital strategies (up to 70% online revenue for Braun) represent the future of retail: bespoke, selective, and relationship-driven.

Finally, the long-awaited report from our exclusive investigation “100 Points of View” focuses on stores — and brands alike. Based on an in-depth analysis of 100 Italian boutiques, it reveals not only the top-selling brands across categories but also valuable insights for mapping the current state of Italian multibrand distribution. While evolving perhaps more slowly than in other countries, it remains an essential cornerstone in the strategies of any brand operating in fashion.

This is why, in a moment of rapid change, HUB Style takes a deliberate pause — to observe, connect, and highlight what endures and renews itself. Celebrating new identities while honoring those already established, which have brought and will continue to bring immense value to our industry.

BENEDETTO SIRONI

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Publisher MagNet S.r.l. SB Editor-in-Chief: ANGELO FRIGERIO Editorial Director: BENEDETTO SIRONI

Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI Editors VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MARIA PINA CIUFFREDA, ALESSANDRO MARRA

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors MARCO RIZZI ANGELO RUGGERI Offices Via Tertulliano 68/70 - 20137 Milano -Tel: +39 02 87245180 Corso della Resistenza, 23 20821 Meda (MB) - redazione.hubstyle@mag-net.it www.hubstyle.it Printing Gierre Print Service Srl - Single copy price € 1,00 Year 09 - N.04 / 2025 Bimonthly publication - Registered at the Milan Court, No. 178 dated June 9, 2017 - Registered with ROC No. 16155 dated November 23, 2007

THE

COLLECTOR

NOT LIMITING OURSELVES TO MERE POSSESSION, BUT RATHER NURTURING AND MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT HAS INTRINSIC VALUE. VIEWING BEAUTY NOT AS A DESTINATION BUT AS A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY AND GROWTH.

BETWEEN DESIGN AND PERFORMANCE

Moncler drops the Trailgrip Momint, a limited-edition sneaker co-created with boundary-breaking artist and style visionary Tobe Nwigwe. At its core: a fresh pastel green the artist’s signature hue and a direct reference to MoMINTs, his Grammy-nominated album. This exclusive take on the Trailgrip line fuses highimpact design with technical flair, blending smooth suede, nubuck, and luxe textures. Finishing touch? The word “Chukwu” Nwigwe’s full name delicately embroidered, sealing the pair with a personal mark.

BOTANY IN FASHION

Autry reimagines its Windspin sneaker in a romantic capsule that bridges fashion and florals. Drawing inspiration from the iconic Chelsea Flower Show, the design features soft leather in four pastel hues. Delicate laser-cut blossoms bloom across the upper in varied sizes, each one hand-finished with a central micro stud a nod to craftsmanship and botanical beauty.

MARITIME HERITAGE

Superga teams up with ArmorLux for a capsule that blends Italian understatement with French nautical charm. The spotlight is on the iconic Superga 2750, reworked in crisp navy and white with refined hand embroidery. The 2750 OG gets a textured update, finished with an extra eyelet that hints at its rugged, masculine edge all while evoking the salty breeze of the Breton coast.

THE GLAMOROUS BON TON OF SAINT-TROPEZ ARRIVES IN MILAN

In The Box channels the sun-soaked charm of Saint-Tropez in a collection infused with Riviera flair. Picture vintage Méharis cruising the coast, striped marinière tops, straw totes, and aperitifs by the sea. Inspired by legendary beach clubs, flower markets, and a lifestyle steeped in effortless elegance, the Milanese brand distills southern French allure into pieces that feel both breezy and refined.

DREAM AND NOSTALGIA

MSGM unveils a whimsical collaboration with British artist Luke Edward Hall, known for his ethereal, narrative-driven illustrations. The collection conjures a dreamy seaside world, like a myth bathed in sunlight think floating sails, fleeting love, and ocean-washed melancholy. Hall’s delicate lines bring oversized shirts and soft knits to life with wistful sailors, blurred faces, and fantastical beings.

A TRIBUTE TO DRESSING

Consinee unveils “The Body Is a Playground” at Pitti Uomo 108, a project curated by Angelo Flaccavento and designer Luca D’Alena

The capsule, made of knitwear pieces not for sale, explores the connection between body and garment through modular, layered, and transformable forms. Each knit becomes an open system, worn and reinvented freely. This vision is brought to life through an installation, images by Alessandro Messina, and a live performance by the Kinkaleri collective.

DENIM LIKE NEVER BEFORE

Levi’s and sacai join forces in a collaboration that breathes new life into iconic denim pieces. The all-female collection offers three standout items, celebrated for originality and meticulous detail. The denim jacket skillfully blends the classic Type I, II, and III models into a modern, structured silhouette. The matelassé twill ja cket is an unexpected fusion of denim and sa cai’s refined quilted fabric, ideal for lovers of sophisticated contrasts. Finally, the jumpsuit a retro-inspired one-piece with a bib and wide flare legs completes the lineup.

JAPANESE TRADITION MEETS STREETWEAR

OTW by Vans eams up for the sixth time with FDMTL, the Japanese brand celebrated for its artisanal denim and traditional craftsmanship. The capsule features two iconic models, the Old Skool 36 EK and Half Cab 33 EK, inspired by the Japanese Sashiko technique and reimagined with Vans Engineered Knit technology. Decorative stitching, premium materials, and unique touches like the woven FDMTL flag make this collection a perfect fusion of craftsmanship and contemporary street style.

STYLE IN MOTION

SUNS previews its spring-summer 2026 collection, driven by the concept “WE_AR 360° MOVING LIGHT.” Lightweight, functional, versatile pieces designed for those navigating city life, travel, and connections stand out with clean lines, highperformance fabrics, and a topographic texture celebrating personal journeys. Also debuting is the collaboration with MiaMily, featuring an exclusive travel kit merging style and practicality. SUNS SS 26: dynamic elegance for those who move with purpose.

THE MOSTRO MULE

The second drop of the PUMA x French designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi collaboration reinvents the iconic 1999 Mostro in a radical, contemporary key. Two new colorways, brown and dark green, for a bold, minimalist slip-on mule. Inspired by the feline elegance of the puma and ‘90s surf & track culture, the Mostro Mule combines comfort, style, and avant-garde spirit in one sleek move.

ETRO MAKES ITS MARK IN SEOUL

Etro has unveiled its new boutique in Seoul, located on the third floor of the renowned Lotte Avenuel Jamsil department store. Designed by Thirty-one Design + Management, the space captures the timeless elegance of the Milanese maison. Men’s and women’s collections, alongside the Etro Home Interiors line, come together to create a lifestyle mosaic that reflects the brand’s sophisticated, global vision.

PESERICO ARRIVES IN CANNES

A new luxury destination lights up the French Riviera: Peserico opens its boutique at 29 Rue du Commandant André, just steps from the legendary Croisette. The 100-square-meter, double-height space blends minimalism and sophistication. A semi-curved steel wall commands attention from the entrance, framing the Peserico Aurea collection and elegantly guiding visitors to the fitting rooms, set in a more intimate, secluded area.

HARMONT & BLAINE DOUBLES DOWN IN GEORGIA

Harmont & Blaine accelerates its global growth with the opening of its second standalone store in Georgia’s vibrant capital, Tbilisi. Spanning 80 square meters of pure Mediterranean spirit, the boutique invites customers to “Live in Color,” the brand’s defining aesthetic. Natural materials like wood and brushed steel blend with warm lighting and sunny hues to create a light, energetic atmosphere full of joie de vivre.

THE ISLAND MILANO: A HAVEN FOR RISING TALENTS

Launched in June on Via Canonica 6, The Island Milano is a fresh concept store devoted entirely to emerging designers, independent labels, and creatives with unique visions. Founded by Carlotta Orlando, the mind behind upcycling brand Giglio Tigrato, the space serves as a meeting point for the new creative generation, offering tailored support, visibility, and a carefully curated environment to nurture innovative and sustainable ideas. Nestled between Parco Sempione, Chinatown, and Brera, the 95-square-meter store spreads over two floors, designed as an oasis for those wanting to tell their story beyond trends with responsibility.

RED SAKURA BLOOMS IN COVENT GARDEN WITH ONITSUKA TIGER

Japanese heritage meets urban edge in London. Onitsuka Tiger launches its first European Red Concept Store in the heart of Covent Garden. The all-red interior, inspired by Sakura blossoms and designed by Studio Dini Cataldi, sets the stage for a collection that fuses sport, fashion, and the timeless style of the Mexico 66.

THE ART OF SOWING BEAUTY

Daniele Fiesoli’s exquisite, sensory knitwear embodies his artisanal heritage, international perspective, and poetic approach to fashion. This consistent expression now blooms anew, inspired by flowers

by Valeria Oneto

In a time when the market sways between anxiety and speed, Daniele Fiesoli seems to stubbornly choose another path: one of depth, slow thought, and respect for identity. Always rooted in the Tuscan artisan tradition, he has built a brand that now speaks to the world, with a personal and recognizable voice, capable of uniting aesthetic intuition, production consistency, and international vision. His collections, like the new SS 26 “At the Borders of the Desert,” emerge from imaginary journeys and authentic suggestions, where each yarn conveys an atmosphere, an emotion. Concurrently, initiatives like “Sowing Beauty” restore meaning to the creative act: small seeds of melliferous flowers inserted into hangtags become a tangible metaphor for a fashion concept that still believes in the transformative power of beauty. In this interview, Daniele Fiesoli discusses growth, future, intuition, and responsibility with disarming simplicity, revealing that yes, even in fashion, one can still sow beauty.

In such an unstable global context, what have been the determining factors of your constant growth?

In moments of instability and uncertainty, markets – composed of people – seek solid reference points. We chose to remain faithful to our identity, without letting panic overwhelm us or being seduced by ephemeral trends. We continued to invest in concreteness, constantly improving our service, further raising quality standards, and maintaining a fair price positioning.

The 2024 figures are positive, and forecasts for 2025 confirm further growth. What is the key to maintaining this balance between expansion and sustainability?

2024 recorded positive results, albeit with a slight decrease compared to 2023. However, projections for 2025 are encouraging: we expect a recovery that will allow us to return to the levels achieved in 2023. The secret lies precisely in knowing how to

balance growth and equilibrium, consolidating what has been built and acting with strategic vision.

From Scandinavia to Korea: today 65% of your turnover is foreign. How does the perception of the brand change outside Italy?

“No prophet is honored in their own country,” as they say. In Italy, we have a long history built from the ground up, but establishing ourselves in terms of image has been a slow and arduous journey. Abroad, however, Made in Italy enjoys a solid reputation, which immediately allowed us to position ourselves in higher segments. Consequently, today the perception of the brand is stronger and more consolidated in international markets compared to the domestic one.

How do you evaluate the recovery of the Chinese market? What are the “unconventional strategies” you mentioned? I cannot yet reveal all the details. I can only anticipate that the approach will be more cultural than strictly commercial. We are working on something different, which we will present at the appropriate time.

What does Made in Italy mean to you today? Is it still a real competitive advantage?

If we look at it only from a financial and short-term perspective, perhaps no, it is no longer such a tangible competitive advantage. But I am—I admit—terribly romantic and deeply connected to my territory. My goal is not simply to earn an extra 5%, even if I don’t disdain it. It is to continue to advance a product culture, to create objects that have a soul. This, for me, is Made in Italy: a collective knowledge, the heritage of expertise that every artisan in the supply chain contributes to my idea, to my design. A process that enhances the initial project and makes it unique.

Daniele Fiesoli, founder Daniele Fiesoli

From left: An image of the eco-friendly paper hangtags with wildflower seeds from the “Sowing Beauty” project. A shot of the “making of” for the Tuscan brand.

Knitwear, among all product categories, is perhaps the least industrializable: the value of the artisan’s hand is visible, tangible, wearable. Finance comes after. It follows, it does not lead.

“Sowing Beauty” is a small yet powerful gesture. Can you tell us about this initiative and what it represents for you?

It’s a dream I’ve carried within me for a long time. I deeply believe in the power of beauty: living surrounded by beautiful things makes us better, helps us be more optimistic, even in difficult times like the one we are experiencing. With “Sowing Beauty,” I sought to unite my vision of the world with my work. What could be simpler and more powerful than a flower? Beautiful, fragrant, and capable – in its small way – of contributing to natural balance by helping bees in their work, and thus circulating life. This is why I decided to insert melliferous flower seeds into all our hangtags. We’re talking about approximately six million seeds a year, contained in fully biodegradable paper: they can be planted in a pot on a balcony or scattered anywhere. Seeds that find the right soil will grow and bring forth flowers. And perhaps those flowers will make someone smile, even if only for a moment. Knowing that somewhere in the world, someone smiled thanks to a gesture of ours, will be my greatest satisfaction.

How did the inspiration behind the SS 26 collection “At the Borders of the Desert” come about?

Every season, we embark on a journey. Sometimes it’s physical, other times completely imagined. From these paths, real or virtual, we gather inspirations that we then try to translate into our work. For the SS 26 collection, the journey was primarily mental: it stemmed from readings, stories, visual research. That’s how we stumbled upon the Draa Valley in Morocco. We were struck by the colors, the warm, dusty hues, the atmosphere suspended between earth and sky. From there, the inspiration began. We constructed yarns and patterns capable of evoking that unique sensation: being at the edge of the desert, in a place where time seems to slow down and everything is filled with light and matter.

Materials and colors seem to suggest a sensorial experience. How much is design and how much is instinct?

I would say 60% instinct and 40% design. There is always a plan behind it, but the instinctive part, the more emotional, sensorial, sometimes inexplicable one, guides the process. It’s intuition that tells us when a color “sounds” right, when a texture evokes a precise sensation. Then, of course, comes the design: the technical translation of that initial idea, the work needed to give it concrete form.

A selection of images from Daniele Fiesoli’s summer collection

The women’s line currently accounts for 15% of turnover, with ambitious goals for 2025: what is the vision behind this growth?

Creating a women’s collection for a brand born with a male DNA is somewhat like defying the law of gravity. But I love challenges. The women’s line is a relatively recent project, although the idea, in reality, was conceived long ago. It took a long period of experimen tation to arrive at a collection that today possesses an autonomous identity, completely independent from the men’s line, both in sty listic terms and in image. The true revolution, however, occurred on the production side: we built a dedicated team, separate from the men’s supply chain, capable of developing ad hoc processes. It was a slow and meticulous effort, but today it allows us to present ourselves to the market with ambitious and, all things considered, realistic goals, despite a generally contracting context.

You collaborate with universities and young creatives. What does this dialogue with new generations give back to you? These are recent projects; we are only at the beginning, but from the outset, I perceived the enormous value of this exchange. Sharing 35 years of experience with curious young people, fas cinated by this profession and eager to learn, is something that profoundly enriches me. They also help me re-evaluate what I had come to take for granted, to look at it with fresh eyes. With the University of Pisa, in particular, the dialogue is future-orient ed: we question how this profession will evolve, what new tools, like artificial intelligence, can be integrated into creative processes. It’s a lively, stimulating discussion that opens unexpected and, above all, necessary scenarios.

In your opinion, what is the social responsibility of a fash-

Rather than speaking of a company’s responsibility, I prefer to speak of an entrepreneur’s responsibility. Especially in a sector like fashion, where communication has such a strong impact, it is crucial to assume an active role.

I believe in daily gestures, in the value of example. I think every entrepreneur should have a solid personal ethic that can become a point of reference for the people they work and live with. Only then can those values be transmitted externally, through the very identity of the company. Ultimately, we are all responsible for what happens around us. And everything begins with the answers we choose to give, every day.

After years of growth, what does it mean to you to “not lose the soul” of a brand?

It means remaining faithful to one’s values. Not trading them to chase turnover. Easy to say, much harder to do. Not even I know if I will fully succeed, because everyone, in the end, works to grow. But pursuing numbers, if not guided by consistency and vision, can lead to glaring errors.

Fashion is not an exact science. It is made of emotions, sensitivity, a subtle balance. And economic results, if they arrive, must be the consequence of a job well done, not the objective that crushes everything else.

If one day your brand became a poem sewn onto a label, what verse would you want people to read when they slip on one of your sweaters?

Two verses that often accompany me: “Remember to sow beauty” and “Judge the day not by what you have reaped, but by what you have sown.” They are simple words, but they encapsulate everything I believe in: a way of being in the world, of working, of creating. Because in the end, even a sweater can be a seed.

A selection of images from Daniele Fiesoli’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection

LOOKING BEYOND

Fashion that doesn’t shout but resonates: a manifesto for those who choose to show themselves unfiltered

by Sara Fumagallo

BOTTEGA BERNARD

Born in Tuscany in 2021 from the vision of Annachiara Bernardi, Bottega Bernard is far more than an emerging brand: it’s a fresh, authentic, and radical voice in contemporary fashion. It blends streetwear elegance with the discipline of artisanal tailoring, reclaiming the roots of true Made in Italy with a forward-looking eye. Genderless, sustainable, inclusive BB is a canvas for writing your own identity, free from labels. With its new collection UNDERGROUND, the brand dives deep into matter and soul, bringing to light what grows away from prying eyes. A dialogue between roots and change, the solidity of earth and the lightness of air. Fluid yet structured pieces express a conscious aesthetic, blending Tuscan craftsmanship, sustainable materials, and fits that move with the body, never constraining it.

Instagram. @bottegabernard bottegabernard.com

VICTOR-HART

Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart, born ’91 in Saltpond, Ghana, is the new face of contemporary fashion. His style emerges at the crossroads of art, culture, and global vision. After studying sculpture and painting in Ghana, followed by textile design and trend forecasting in Milan, he’s collaborated with brands like Calvin Klein, H&M, and American Eagle. In 2020, he launched Victor-Hart, his personal project based in Italy. The brand stands against fast fashion, offering refined, thoughtful design. The 2025 Defiants collection deconstructs professional uniforms with a futuristic lens, showcasing architectural cuts, military influences, technical fabrics, and poetic references from Dante Alighieri to Ghanaian culture. Victor-Hart is more than a brand: it’s a philosophy. Genderless, tailored, conceptual a new aesthetic language for those who reject labels and wear their identity.

Instagram. @victor__hart victor-hart.com

SKIPPER STYLE

A symbol of quiet luxury and a refined alternative to the shirt, the open-collar polo is conquering global markets. F using artisanal heritage, noble materials and a relaxed design

by Valeria Oneto

In 2024, lightweight knitwear takes center stage in men’s wardrobes even in the warmer months. Among the standout pieces is the Skipper polo, also known as the Johnny Collar: an open-neck, buttonless shirt that strikes a balance between heritage and modernity, relaxed elegance and sartorial spirit. Italian and international brands alike Gran Sasso, John Smedley, De Laurentiis, Kangra are breathing new life into this style, tapping into a widespread appetite for hybrid garments that are both refined and laid-back. A true emblem of quiet luxury, the Skipper embodies a sophisticated yet unpretentious aesthetic. As Jess mcguire-Dudley (John Smedley) puts it, “it’s a twist on a timeless classic, with a nostalgic 1950s clubhouse charm that still feels incredibly current.” At Gran Sasso, it’s reimagined as a “hybrid between a shirt and a knit,” crafted from premium fibers like Egyptian cotton, linen, and silk (Carlo Di Stefano). Arovescio emphasizes its gen-

1 The Skipper or Open Polo also known as the Johnny Collar is back at the heart of contemporary men’s style. What does this piece represent for your brand today? How have you reinterpreted it in your collection?

2 Its appeal lies in its relaxed elegance: sophisticated, never stiff.

How does your version of the polo reflect this idea of style? Is it an alternative to the shirt or something entirely new?

der-fluid side, while Kangra focuses on “comfort and sensorial appeal” for a lived-in elegance. For De Laurentiis, it’s “a modern Dolce Vita” where technical finesse meets vintage spirit. The market is responding. In 2023, knitwear overtook shirts in Italian menswear, accounting for 26.1% of sell-out compared to 16.5% for shirting (fashionunited, 2024). Exports offset a domestic slowdown (+0.4%), and some districts like Umbria grew by +19.4% (supplychainitaly, 2025). Globally, knitwear is projected to reach $156.8 billion by 2029 (milanofinanza, 2024) and a staggering $2,263.3 billion by 2032 (databridge, 2025), fueled by demand for sustainable, versatile garments. While a slight cooling of the Italian market is expected in 2025, brands are betting on fine yarns, natural dyes, traceability, and short supply chains. More than a trend, the Skipper is becoming a universal code: for those who seek comfort, individuality and restraint without sacrificing style.

The use of fine yarns from organic cotton to featherlight cashmere is key to the perception of understated luxury. What is your philosophy when it comes to choosing materials? Beyond quality, what do you look for in a yarn today?

4 Craftsmanship and innovation often coexist in your garments. Where do you feel you're preserving tradition, and where are you exploring more contemporary or experimental approaches?

5 The Skipper polo seems to resonate with a wide spectrum of tastes and lifestyles. In which markets do you see the most interesting response? Are there specific regions or use contexts where it's gaining stronger traction?

CRISTIANO CARPI sales manager & third generation executive KANGRA

1 The Skipper polo today strikes a perfect balance between tradition and modernity. It channels the vintage charm of the '50s and '60s, but reimagines it with a contemporary sensitivity that speaks to a relaxed, informal style. In our collection, it’s offered in a range of yarns each with distinctive details to create a broad and diversified selection.

It’s definitely an alternative to the classic shirt, yet it holds its own identity. Rather than acting as a substitute, it

expresses a new aesthetic language: more fluid, more current, suited to both formal settings and more laid-back moments.

Our material choices follow a clear philosophy: quality, sustainability, and sensorial appeal. We work exclusively with noble yarns, selected not only for their prestige but for the tactile experience they offer in terms of comfort and feel. Today, we look for fibers that also tell a story of ethical and environmental commitment blending performance with tradition.

Our brand identity is deeply rooted in Italian artisanal tradition: time-honored techniques, attention to detail, and the value of manual craftsmanship. At the same time, innovation is a key driver of our evolution. We’re currently exploring new volumes, original textures, and sustainable finishes these are the frontiers of our creative experimentation.

The Skipper polo is gaining broad international appeal. In the United States, it’s appreciated for its versatility; in Europe,

for the way it merges elegance with ease. In Asia, it’s emerging as an iconic piece that blends heritage with a contemporary spirit, an equilibrium that today’s global consumer increasingly recognizes and seeks out.

The Skipper collar is a stylish reinterpretation of a timeless menswear staple. The buttonless polo, also known as the Johnny Collar, moves effortlessly across different eras. It feels fresh and contemporary, yet retains the charm of 1950s American clubhouse aesthetics and early '90s European elegance, when John Smedley first introduced it in 1990. Today, in our collections, it’s presented in a light and relaxed version, vibrant in colour, with a naturally refined flair. It’s ideal layered under knit cardigans and jackets.

Our Skipper collar was born from observing a shift in how people wear classic polos, increasingly left open at the top with one or two buttons undone. This distinctive style, introduced by John

The Skipper polo is an iconic piece for us, so much so that we gave it a specific name within our collection: Ryan. It’s a collar construction we have developed and refined over time, and we have been offering it for four consecutive summers. It has become a cornerstone of our offering, both in the basic line and the main collection. We’ve interpreted it in various patterns and knit textures, also experimenting with different collar depths. Our reinterpretation focuses precisely on the buttonless version, which for us is synonymous with Ryan.

2 It represents something alternative and entirely new for our brand. This piece expresses a sensual elegance designed for a classic yet self-aware man, at-

Smedley in 1990, continues to be widely appreciated. Our iconic Sea Island Cotton ensures a graceful drape and excellent breathability, while our in-house dyeing facility at Lea Mills in Derbyshire produces a unique and recognisable colour palette every season.

Since 1784, when founder John Smedley made the decision to work exclusively with noble fibres, we have stayed true to a consistent philosophy in material selection. Our portfolio includes luxurious Sea Island Cotton, extrafine merino wool, and Anglo Indian Gauze – an exclusive cotton and merino blend – alongside combinations like cotton/silk, cotton/cashmere, and 100% superfine cashmere. Every material is selected with the utmost care and adheres to one essential principle: full traceability of every single fibre.

With a heritage spanning over 240 years, our commitment is to balance historical legacy with a spirit of innovation. On one hand, we continue to value artisanal techniques: each garment is crafted by 35 skilled hands. On the other, we’re constantly investing in cutting-edge technologies, new machinery, and bold creative ideas. In 2024, we invested £4 million in new knitting frames, expanding our stylistic vocabulary. We also upgraded our inhouse dyehouse to offer even more original hues each season, while maintaining full artisanal control over the process.

tentive to fashion codes. It does not settle for repeating familiar formulas but seeks an evolution of the classic. In this sense, our Skipper is a way to renew and update an icon of the men’s wardrobe.

Our philosophy starts from the premise that performance and aesthetics cannot be separated. We look for yarns that guarantee lightness, freshness, comfort, and impeccable fit, without sacrificing the aesthetic result. One of our key articles, for example, is cotton-silk: it combines the freshness and comfort of cotton with the softness and luminosity of silk. We also work with cashmere and other noble fibres, often blended, and pay close attention to colour rendition. We range from ultra-fine gauges like 30 to more rustic and substantial knits, even for summer, while maintaining a focus on lightness with gauges 16 and 18.

We operate in Umbria, the heart of Italian menswear knitwear, a district that allows us to draw on an extraordinary artisanal heritage. Innovation lies in translating this tradition into new languages: through studying knit patterns, using innovative yarns, and the ability to reinterpret classic codes according to contemporary market needs and tastes.

The spread of the Skipper polo has followed different dynamics depending on geographic areas. In Italy, especially

The spread of the Skipper polo has played out differently across regions. In Italy, especially in the North, it gained early traction thanks to a cultural sensitivity toward style innovations. Today, however, it enjoys widespread popularity nationwide. Internationally, the first strong signals came from East Asia, particularly Japan and South Korea. The Skipper has since gained a strong presence in Russia, the United States, and Kazakhstan. It has become a central item in our collections, to the point that the ratio between buttoned polos and Skippers has nearly reversed in recent years – from 80/20 to the current 60/40 in favour of the Skipper.

in the North, it caught on early thanks to a sensitivity to this kind of novelty. Today, however, it is widely present across the entire country. Internationally, the first strong signals came from East Asia, particularly Japan and South Korea. The Skipper is now well established in Russia, the United States, and Kazakhstan. It has become a central proposal in collections to the point that, compared to a few years ago, the ratio between buttoned polos and Skippers has almost reversed: from 80/20 to a current 60/40 in favour of the Skipper.

JESS MCGUIRE-DUDLEY managing director JOHN SMEDLEY

SILVIA MARIA ROSI brand director MAURO OTTAVIANI

founder AROVESCIO

Today the Skipper polo represents for us a meeting point between tradition and contemporary spirit. It is a garment that conveys elegance without formalism, with a relaxed but aware energy. In our collection, we have reinterpreted it with softer volumes, less structured collars, and a colour palette designed to interact with the urban wardrobe. We wanted to update its language while maintaining its original identity, making it more fluid, gender-inclusive, and suitable for a transversal aesthetic.

Our Skipper is conceived as an alternative to the shirt in less formal contexts, but also as a standalone piece with a well-defined identity. The distinctive trait is softness in the lines, in the materials, and

The Skipper polo represents for us a perfect balance between tradition and informality. It is a garment that embodies a light, timeless elegance. In our collection, we have reinterpreted it through a variety of materials and knitwear techniques, ranging from ultra-fine yarns in gauge 18 to heavier knits in gauge 5. We offer it both in a smooth version and with micro textile patterns that recall our artisanal heritage. The depth of the neckline opening is also modulated: more pronounced for a sporty touch, more subtle for a sophisticated look.

The fine knit polo has established itself especially in informal contexts. Among all the variants, the Skipper is the

in the way it is worn. The goal is to convey a refined nonchalance typical of those who choose quality without needing to show off. It is a piece that speaks a transversal language, suitable both for leisure time and for more refined situations.

For Arovescio, yarn quality is the starting point, not the finish line. We look for materials that tell a story, with a transparent supply chain and a positive impact. Our luxury is discreet but conscious: we prioritise natural fibres, certified processes, and yarns that combine comfort, durability, and tactility. Our philosophy is simple: if a yarn does not make you want to wear it directly on the skin, it does not enter the collection.

The artisanal heritage lives in the details, in the handcrafting, in the internal finishes, and in the precision of the fit. These are elements derived from a sartorial culture we want to preserve. At the same time, we explore innovative materials, natural dyes, and unstructured constructions. Our language is born precisely from this dialogue between memory and experimentation: between what has shaped us and what still manages to surprise us.

We are seeing growing interest in markets such as Canada and the United States, where the idea of functional elegance finds great resonance. Also in Europe, in urban and creative contexts, the Skipper is establishing itself as a symbol of a new

masculinity: more fluid, more conscious, less rigid. It has become an intentional choice for those who want to stand out with discretion, without sacrificing comfort and personality.

one that best tells the story of summer for us. It evokes the imagery of the Dolce Vita, a suspended time in which our brand deeply recognizes itself. It is a piece capable of combining retro charm and contemporary freshness, refined but never rigid.

The selection of yarns for us is comparable to a chef’s choice of ingredients. The nobility of the raw material is the essential starting point. We collaborate with trusted Italian suppliers who guarantee certified raw materials, such as RWS wool or SFA cashmere, and who support us in developing exclusive items season after sea son. We believe in the collaborative Made in Italy supply chain as a real added val ue compared to standardized foreign productions.

Italian tradition and inspiration represent the identity core of the Filippo De Laurentiis brand. But it is through product engineering which embraces weaving technology, manual craftsmanship, washing techniques, and the care in ironing and fin ishing that we make this vision tangible. It is here that innovation and craftsmanship meet to create garments that speak to the present without forgetting their roots.

The Skipper has always been linked to a nautical imagery, with strong refer

ences to the world of marinas and yachting clubs. In the United States, where the term “Johnny Collar” was born, it is an iconic garment. In the last ten years, it has established itself as a transversal proposal, appreciated both in Northern Europe and Japan. If we are talking about it today, it is because it has managed to secure a stable place in global wardrobes: a garment that is easy, versatile, but with a strong identity.

DAVIDE CAVAZZOLI

FILIPPO FERRANTE

SASSO

Also known as Johnny Collar for its distinctive open collar without buttons, the Skipper polo represents for Gran Sasso the perfect balance between Italian tailoring tradition and a modern sensibility. Inspired by post-war men’s elegance, it is now reinterpreted with a contemporary language that enhances comfort, refinement, and versatility. A symbol of the brand’s heritage, it is designed for a dynamic man attentive to details and style.

The Gran Sasso Skipper embodies a new idea of elegance, more relaxed but always polished. The open collar breaks with the stiffness of the traditional shirt while maintaining a sober and refined profile. Natural yarns such as Egyptian cotton, linen,

and cotton-silk blends combined with tailoring techniques give the garment a fluid and sophisticated fit. The balanced fit allows for both elegant and casual pairings. More than an alternative to the shirt, it is a hybrid garment that fuses the softness of knitwear with the elegance of tailoring.

The Spring-Summer 2026 collection stands out for the use of noble yarns such as mercerized cotton, linen, and cotton-linen blends, alongside a current palette ranging from navy to ivory, including orange, terracotta, and turquoise. Cuts are soft, fits relaxed, with tone-on-tone details. Gran Sasso selects traceable, low-impact fibers with the goal of creating a polo that is refined, lightweight, and conscious.

Every Skipper is born in the production hub of Sant’Egidio alla Vibrata, the beating heart of the company. The short supply chain, the use of artisanal techniques, obsessive attention to finishes, and respect for classic shapes define Gran Sasso’s DNA. An authentic sartorial approach that knows how to evolve without ever losing its essence.

The Skipper finds approval in very different markets. In Western Europe, it establishes itself as the ideal garment for summer business casual; in the United States, it fits perfectly into the smart casual wardrobe; in East Asia, it wins over for quality and sobriety; in the Middle East, it stands out as a luxury polo suitable for resort wear. It is a transversal

For us the Skipper Polo is a refined garment, ideal both worn alone or under a jacket, as an alternative to a shirt or classic polo. This season we presented it in a fineness 5, a midweight more structured than the classic lightweight polo. The yarn is a blend of 70% linen and 30% cotton: fresh, natural, perfect for the season. We work with exclusive colors through a personalized mix of base yarns. Particular attention is given to the collar, which must maintain structure without fluttering, and the sleeve, which reaches almost to the elbow: a detail that gives the garment more presence.

It is an alternative, but not only to the shirt: it is a surpassing of the traditional

polo. Classic polos are often in fineness 12 or 18, very thin. Ours is fineness 5, thicker and with a different presence. It is a new way to wear a versatile, elegant but never stiff garment, closer to a contemporary style concept.

For Spring-Summer 2026 we focus especially on freshness. Cashmere is beautiful but not very suitable for warm climates. So we work with linen, cotton, silk, and their blends. Besides quality, yarns must have a beautiful tone and interesting structure: it is the raw material that allows innovation in knitwear. If you want to create something new, the yarn must already tell a story.

Tradition is in the methods: we do not accept compromises on constructive quality. For example, we still apply zippers with knitting machines, not with sewing machines like 99% of companies do. Innovation, however, is in everything else: yarns, stitches, colors, fit. We can even break the rules, like mixing different fibers together. And on timing: we respect it. We do not want to produce in less time at the expense of quality. In fact, nowadays times often lengthen because the manual skills of the past are missing.

Japan and the United States are responding very well: we have already launched three collections and they are performing well. In Italy success is not regional but related to the type of boutique: the most attentive ones are proposing it a lot. In recent years the-

garment, suitable for hybrid work, sophisticated leisure, and urban lifestyles. It is not a mere trend but a universal aesthetic code.

re has been a clear reversal: the Skipper, which previously represented 20% of sales, is now at 80%. There is a desire for something more contemporary and fresh. And yes, it is more an aesthetic change than a functional one: after all, no one ever buttoned the buttons.

CARLO DI STEFANO brand manager GRAN

MICHELE PAGLIERO ceo SETTEFILI CASHMERE

TAILORED ELEGANCE

A historic boutique rooted in the heart of Palermo and known across the globe. Michele Inzerillo dresses men - and now women- balancing sartorial tradition, innovation, and a luxury experience built entirely around the client

by Sara Fumagallo

It all began in the 1950s, with the Inzerillo brothers refined merchants of fine fabrics. But the turning point came in 1973 with the founding of Michele Inzerillo, the boutique that has since become a touchstone for men seeking uncompromising elegance. Under the direction of Marco Inzerillo, the founder’s son, the boutique took on international momentum in 2006, thanks to its celebrated trunk shows in cities like New York, Tokyo, and Moscow. Here, shopping becomes emotion, listening, and bespoke care: every client is unique. Between tailoring and ready-to-wear luxury, the experience is stitched not just to the body but to the soul. Today, the store also offers a women’s selection, curated with the same passion and precision that made Italian fashion an international icon. We spoke with Marco Inzerillo about the present and future of the brand.

Tell us about the boutique’s story.

Michele Inzerillo opened in Palermo in 1956, founded by the Inzerillo brothers. Today, we’re in our second generation, carrying on the tradition with a contemporary perspective. Our mission is to offer a curated selection of international brands and top-tier artisans, always keeping a strong focus on quality and the customer. We value human connection, bespoke service, and an authentic shopping experience both in-store and online.

How important is online compared to the physical boutique?

E-commerce now accounts for around 40% of our revenue. It’s a strategic channel, especially for reaching international clients. But our physical store remains the beating heart of what we do: a space for connection, consultation, and loyalty.

What trends are defining this season?

We’re seeing a strong blend of formal and casual styles. Clients are drawn

OVERVIEW

Boutique Name: Michele Inzerillo

Owner: Marco Inzerillo

Address: Via Alcide De Gasperi 62, 90146 Palermo Size: 300 sqm Website: inzerillo.it

Top Brands: Arc'teryx Veilance, Barena Venezia, Carhartt, C.P. Company, Herno, John Lobb, Kiton, Maison Kitsuné, New Balance, Salomon, Themoiré

to versatile pieces, natural materials, and garments with strong identity. There’s growing interest in urban-inspired outdoor wear, with brands like Salomon and Veilance, and workwear styles from Carhartt and Universal Works.

Do you offer any tailored services for clients?

Yes, we offer personal consultations by appointment, in-house tailoring for quick alterations, and a dedicated concierge service for international clients. We also take great care with packaging and shipping especially for online orders.

What’s next for Michele Inzerillo?

We’re expanding our women’s department, developing new capsules with brand partners, and enhancing our CRM to deliver an even more personalized experience. On the community side, we’re preparing to celebrate five years of HISTORES the network I founded and chair, which brings together over 60 independent boutiques across Italy.

A few glimpses inside the Michele Inzerillo boutique, managed since 2006 by Marco Inzerillo, second-generation at the helm

Marco Inzerillo, Owner of Michele Inzerillo

A HERITAGE OF STYLE

For over 90 years, BRAUN Hamburg has stood for refined menswear and sartorial excellence. Born in 1933 from the vision of Erich Braun, the boutique is now led by third-generation CEO Lars Braun who’s writing a new chapter in the family saga by

Sara Fumagallo

In the heart of Hamburg, Germany, lies a cornerstone of European men’s fashion: BRAUN Hamburg. Established in 1933, this storied boutique has evolved from a local outfitter into a cult destination for those in search of exclusive pieces, meticulous craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. Still family-owned, BRAUN now boasts three strategically located stores including the iconic flagship in the Kaisergalerie shopping arcade and a thriving e-commerce platform reaching customers in over 30 countries. At the helm is Lars Braun, who seamlessly blends heritage with innovation, curating a selection that includes global powerhouses, emerging labels, and niche collections. In 2023, the boutique took another leap forward with a dedicated luxury footwear area and its entry into Italy’s esteemed Histores retail network. Its continued evolution has earned industry accolades such as the Forum Prize by TextilWirtschaft. We caught up with Lars Braun to find out more.

Tell us a bit about BRAUN Hamburg’s origins. When and where did it all begin?

Our journey started in 1933, when my grandfather opened a men’s clothing store here in Hamburg. From day one, the mission was simple: to offer the very best, in a setting defined by care and character. That mindset has never changed. Today, we remain true to our DNA while always looking ahead. I like to say, the windshield is bigger than the rear-view mirror: innovation is essential, but we never forget our roots. With three stores in the heart of Hamburg and a fully in-house-built online platform, we’re now the largest luxury multi-brand menswear retailer in the German-speaking world. That success is the result of passion, vision, and a deep pride in our near-century-long family story.

How important is your online presence compared to your physical stores?

Driven by ambition, we launched our e-commerce platform 15 years ago, developing everything internally from our photo studio to content creation. It has since become the largest men’s luxury fashion e-commerce site in Germany. Today, online sales represent 70% of our total turnover.

The shop window on Mönckebergstraße

Inside the Kaisergalerie flagship

What trends are you seeing in menswear and consumer behavior? Has anything shifted in recent years?

We’ve definitely noticed a change in how our customers shop. Sustainable luxury remains highly valued, while fast fashion and low-quality trend pieces have lost their shine. Although classic styles are less dominant than before, we continue to prioritize elegance and refined taste core values that define us. We’re proud to remain a point of reference for men’s style in Europe—and yes, I still personally select every piece we offer. For me, quality and style are non-negotiable.

Do you offer loyalty programs or services to retain customers?

Our approach is to provide such a high level of personalized service that loyalty programs become unnecessary. Those schemes often encourage a discount-driven mindset, which doesn’t reflect who we are. Our clients come for quality and experience, not for points or perks. That’s why we’ve consciously chosen not to implement them.

What’s next for BRAUN Hamburg?

Our focus remains on safeguarding the reputation we’ve built over decades. That said, we’re looking to the future with bold intent and are actively exploring new store locations.

OVERVIEW

Name: BRAUN Hamburg

Owner: Lars Braun

Locations: Mönckebergstraße 17, 20095 Hamburg and Große Bleichen 27 / Kaisergalerie, 20354 Hamburg

Size: 400 sqm (Mönckebergstraße), 1,400 sqm (Kaisergalerie)

Website: braun-hamburg.com

Top Brands: Brunello Cucinelli, Caruso, Cesare Attolini, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fedeli, Golden Goose, Marco Pescarolo, PT01, Stone Island, Thom Browne, Tom Ford

Lars Braun, CEO of BRAUN Hamburg

TURBULENCE IN LUXURY

Luxury giants slow down amid worrying signals from China. Meanwhile, two Italian players defy the crisis with better-than-expected results

by Angelo Ruggeri

In the world of luxury, where image is as valuable as revenue, change is underway. French powerhouses LVMH and Kering—long synonymous with global dominance—are starting to falter. First-quarter 2025 figures reveal clear signs of slowdown, especially in key markets like China, where demand is weakening and uncertain. Meanwhile, two Italian groups, Prada and Moncler, are surprising analysts with solid, countertrend performances. The post-pandemic luxury boom—marked by hyper-growth and limitless margins—is giving way to a more complex landscape, where adaptability, identity, and local strategy make all the difference.

LVMH

When LVMH slows, the entire luxury sector takes notice. Led by Bernard Arnault, the group posted a 3% drop in revenues in Q1 2025 compared to the same period in 2024. This decline is striking after a long streak of growth. The slowdown mainly stems from a faltering Chinese market, which for years has been the luxury sector’s main growth engine. These are real red flags amid Asia’s growing uncertainty. While Europe enjoys growth driven by tourism and solid demand, the global center of gravity

seems unstable. LVMH hasn’t broken down results by brand yet, but concerns focus on Louis Vuitton, struggling to maintain its aura of desirability in an increasingly saturated market wary of ostentation. Fashion, selective retail, and fragrance divisions are also under scrutiny, awaiting a recovery that may not come soon.

Kering

Even more critical is the situation at Kering, the second major French luxury group, which reported a 10% revenue drop at constant exchange rates in Q1, falling to €3.9 billion. The biggest worry is Gucci, the group’s flagship brand, which lost 25% of its revenue year-on-year. The highly anticipated debut of Demna (former creative head of Balenciaga) this September hasn’t reversed the trend: the Florence-based brand appears to have lost its innovative and provocative edge, slipping into an identity crisis. Younger customers, once loyal, are now looking elsewhere. François-Henri Pinault’s group is navigating a delicate transition where any strategic misstep could be costly. Ongoing restructuring, while necessary, demands time and vision—two precious commodities in today’s luxury landscape.

Above: Model Vittoria Ceretti in Custom Moncler x EE72 by Edward Enninful at the 2025 Met Gala

TURBULENCE IN LUXURY

Luxury giants slow down amid worrying signals from China. Meanwhile, two Italian players defy the crisis with better-than-expected results

by Angelo Ruggeri

In the world of luxury, where image is as valuable as revenue, change is underway. French powerhouses LVMH and Kering long synonymous with global dominance are starting to falter. First-quarter 2025 figures reveal clear signs of slowdown, especially in key markets like China, where demand is weakening and uncertain. Meanwhile, two Italian groups, Prada and Moncler, are surprising analysts with solid, countertrend performances. The post-pandemic luxury boom—marked by hyper-growth and limitless margins—is giving way to a more complex landscape, where adaptability, identity, and local strategy make all the difference.

LVMH

Kering

Even more critical is the situation at Kering, the second major French luxury group, which reported a 10% revenue drop at constant exchange rates in Q1, falling to €3.9 billion. The biggest worry is Gucci, the group’s flagship brand, which lost 25% of its revenue year-on-year. The highly anticipated debut of Demna (former creative head of Balenciaga) this September hasn’t reversed the trend: the Florence-based brand appears to have lost its innovative and provocative edge, slipping into an identity crisis. Younger customers, once loyal, are now looking elsewhere. François-Henri Pinault’s group is navigating a delicate transition where any strategic misstep could be costly. Ongoing restructuring, while necessary, demands time and vision two precious commodities in today’s luxury landscape.

Above: Model Vittoria Ceretti in Custom Moncler x EE72 by Edward Enninful at the 2025 Met Gala

Prada Group

In this turbulent context, Prada stands out for its solidity and clear direction. The Milanese brand closed Q1 2025 with revenues up 13%, hitting €1.34 billion. This beats expectations and proves that under Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli’s leadership, the group has tapped into a more conscious, authentic, and understated luxury. Success also comes from Miu Miu, now among the most coveted brands for younger generations thanks to its contemporary, ironic yet sophisticated language. Prada’s targeted digital strategies and selective distribution have reinforced its image without resorting to overexposure. But the group’s real strength lies in its stylistic and ethical consistency, combined with growing attention to sustainability and artisanal production. In a world where authenticity is the new status symbol, Prada speaks the right language.

Moncler Group

Moncler confirms its role as a winning outsider in the luxury scene. The group ended Q1 2025 with revenues of

€829 million, beating analyst forecasts. Both the Moncler brand and Stone Island continue to grow, the latter strengthening its identity at the intersection of fashion and urban culture. Moncler again proves its ability to reinvent without losing its essence: high-profile collaborations, experiential events like The Art of Genius, and a loyal community make it a case study. The group has capitalized on the desire for performance and functionality, blended with strong emotional and narrative elements. This strategy pays off today, especially as consumers reward brands offering more than just a product: an identity.

A New Balance in Luxury?

The picture emerging from early 2025 is clear: giants are wobbling, challengers are rising. LVMH and Kering may yet reclaim leadership, but today’s market favors those who adapt quickly, listen to customers, and communicate authentically. Luxury is no longer just status and logos. It’s value, storytelling, culture. And in this new paradigm, Italy still has a lot to say.

From top left, clockwise: Louis Vuitton restaurant in Saint-Tropez, Gucci Cruise 2026, Miu Miu Upcycled by Catherine Martin

Stardust

We

are always connected

Prada Group

Moncler Group

Moncler confirms its role as a winning outsider in the luxury scene. The group ended Q1 2025 with revenues of

A New Balance in Luxury?

From top left, clockwise: Louis Vuitton restaurant in Saint-Tropez, Gucci Cruise 2026, Miu Miu Upcycled by Catherine Martin

A WORLD OF STORIES AND IDENTITIES

More than a company Falis is a key voice in the fashion system. Championing Italian style (and beyond), it brings heritage brands back into the spotlight

Trends may fade, but some icons never di sappear. In an ever-evolving fashion landscape, Falis stands out with a bold and focused mission: to bring iconic names in casualwear and sportswear back into the spotlight brands rooted in quality, timeless elegance, and true authenticity. Born and grown in Italy, Falis operates with a glo bal outlook. Its integrated business model blends retail and wholesale, ensuring market agility, fast logistics, and strategic positioning. Through partnerships with key international players like G-III Apparel Group, AWWG, New Amsterdam Apparel, and Monte Rosa Capital, the company has gained access to exclusive collections, top-tier marketing assets, and high-level production capacity while staying true to the craftsmanship

and detail of an Italian boutique. A young, specialized team drives its product efficiency and retail excellence, positioning Falis as a trusted partner for multibrand retailers and concept stores in search of a distinctive, high-performing assortment. The company champions Made in Italy and beyond by amplifying brands that have shaped fashion history, including Bear Surfboards, Converse Apparel, Ellesse, Henri Lloyd, Michael Kors Tailoring Man, Pepe Jeans, and Roberto Cavalli Uomo. Its offering spans refined casualwear to relaxed sportswear, all enhanced by digital tools like a fully interactive online showroom and a targeted social strategy that celebrates its brand mix. Falis curates fashion for those who value heritage and want it to speak fluently to the present.

Bear Surfboards

Inspired by the sun-soaked surf culture of 1970s California, Bear Surfboards blends heritage and urban flair. Designed for those who embrace the freedom of both waves and streets, its oversized tees, hoodies, lightweight jackets, and accessories channel a cinematic myth that’s become reality.

Converse Apparel

The name Converse is legendary in sneaker history. Founded in 1908, the brand became a cultural icon with the Chuck Taylor All Star. Today, Converse has evolved into a fullfledged lifestyle brand, bringing its urban spirit to apparel. The collections are minimalist and bold, offering city-ready essentials like tees, hoodies, joggers, and light jackets. With vintage touches, street graphics, and old-school basketball vibes, each piece expresses individuality.

Ellesse

Founded in 1959 in Italy, Ellesse was an early pioneer of athleisure—blending technical innovation with elegant design long before it became a trend. Its founder, Leonardo Servadio, reshaped sportswear with tailored ski pants and slim-fit jackets. Today, Ellesse remains a lifestyle brand rooted in retro flair and future-focused design. For Spring/ Summer 2026, the brand reinterprets “tenniscore” with a modern edge: polos, tees, shorts, and mini dresses for those seeking elegant, easygoing sportswear.

Michele Bernardi, managing director Falis

Henri Lloyd

Born in 1963 in Manchester, Henri Lloyd is synonymous with technical innovation and nautical style. A trailblazer in materials like Gore-Tex, it redefined sailing apparel with functional yet stylish garments. The iconic Consort Jacket, worn by sailing legends, remains a symbol of authenticity and adventure. Today, Henri Lloyd merges sustainability and contemporary aesthetics, offering streamlined silhouettes and recycled materials for a free-spirited, resilient, and modern lifestyle.

Michael Kors Tailoring Man

Best known for women’s luxury, Michael Kors has also crafted a sophisticated menswear line: Michael Kors Tailoring Man. Featuring clean cuts, slim silhouettes, and premium fabrics like stretch wool and linen, the collection is made for the modern urban professional. From unstructured blazers to chino pants and technical fabrics, the range offers understated, comfortable elegance with attention to detail and effortless business-casual appeal.

Roberto Cavalli Uomo

Since its founding in 1970 in Florence, Roberto Cavalli has been a symbol of Italian glamour and craftsmanship. Now under Vision Investment Co. LLC, the brand continues its path of innovation and creativity while staying true to the DNA that made it world-famous. One of the standout evolutions is Roberto Cavalli Uomo, which brings the maison’s iconic boldness to men’s fashion. Contemporary, sophisticated, and constantly forward-thinking, the line delivers standout menswear with the house’s signature flair.

Pepe Jeans

Born in 1970s London, Pepe Jeans embodies the rebellious, creative energy of youth. Denim is the brand’s beating heart crafted with precise fits, innovative washes, and a distinctly urban spirit. It’s the go-to label for those who tell their story through fashion, offering pieces that dare, evolve, and express individuality every single day.

Instagram: @weare_falis

WHISPERED LUXURY: WHEN ELEGANCE HIDES IN PLAIN SIGHT

From “luxury shame” to “quiet luxury,” fashion’s most exclusive codes are going silent. A journey into the understated world where chic no longer needs to shout

by Angelo Ruggeri

Once upon a time, logos were loud. Splashed across sweaters, stamped on sneakers, screaming from the sides of handbags. A bold message: “Look how much I’m worth.” But the world has changed and with it, the way we perceive and perform luxury. In a post-pandemic era shaped by economic strain, social tension, and growing environmental awareness, flaunting wealth feels increasingly out of touch. Enter a new aesthetic and cultural shift: quiet luxury. It’s a silent revolution embraced by celebrities, the ultra-wealthy, and, most notably, those who want to be rich without looking it. Goodbye logomania, hello discreet elegance. The new status symbol? Only those who know, know.

What Is Quiet Luxury?

It may sound like a contradiction how can luxury be quiet? But that’s the point. This isn’t about showing off, it’s about choosing the very best for yourself, with no need for approval. It’s a fashion code rooted in refinement, impeccable quality, and soft-spoken sophistication. Think: a Loro Piana cashmere coat, a crisp poplin shirt from The Row, or a buttery leather Bottega Veneta bag devoid of logos, but unmistakable to the trained eye. Noble fabrics, flawless tailoring, muted tones, immaculate finishes luxury as an experience, not a statement.

The Rise of “Luxury Shame”

The shift didn’t happen in a vacuum. It traces back to a phenomenon known as luxury shame, which gained traction during the pandemic and deepened in response to ongoing global instability. In a time when many are struggling to make ends meet, flaunting wealth can feel tone-deaf if not outright distasteful. The solution?

Don’t stop indulging just do it quietly. This isn’t a return to austerity; it’s a shift in narrative. True luxury buyers are no longer driven by visibility, but by discernment. If you know, you know. If you don’t, it’s not for you.

Taste, Not Trend

Quiet luxury is also a rebuttal to fast fashion and the hyper-con-

sumption that defined the last two decades. A new generation particularly conscious Millennials and Gen Z are opting for fewer, better things. They’re trading hype drops for heritage, logos for lasting value. In response, many top-tier brands are scaling back the noise: fewer capsules, more consistency. The message is clear: elegance doesn’t expire. Real luxury ages beautifully. It’s passed down, not thrown out.

The New Way to Shop

Another quiet evolution is unfolding in how people shop. Today’s high-end clientele prefers discretion: private appointments, invitation-only previews, and intimate spaces where service feels like a five-star stay. Brands like Hermès, Brunello Cucinelli, and Alaïa are designing serene, by-appointment spaces where the product not the post is the focus. Even e-commerce is shifting: concierge-style virtual consultations, personalized lookbooks, and invite-only video calls now define the top tier of online retail. Exclusivity, it seems, works best behind closed (digital) doors.

Pop Culture’s Subtle Cue

What cemented quiet luxury as a mainstream reference point? Television. Series like Succession, The Crown, and Big Little Lies gave viewers a peek into a wardrobe of power: restrained silhouettes, bespoke tailoring, luxe without labels. It’s the style of real wealth the kind that has nothing to prove. No surprise, then, that brands like Totême, Khaite, Max Mara, and Jil Sander are trending. Even Zara and COS are tapping into the look, making it aspirational but never quite the real thing.

The Power of the Unspoken Quiet luxury isn’t just a trend it’s a mindset. A refined manifesto. A secret code shared by those who know that the essential is, indeed, invisible to the eye. It’s the triumph of a fashion that whispers rather than shouts. A style that doesn’t need applause because it’s already at peace with itself. And paradoxically, that’s what makes it impossible to ignore.

From left: Alaïa Fall-Winter 2025, Brunello Cucinelli Spring-Summer 2025, Hermès Spring-Summer 2025

BEYOND TIME

For the FW 25/26 collection, Montecore and Roberto Palomba present a powerful and poetic work that invites us to see time not as a limitation, but as a richness to be lived. A journey where fashion, design, and architecture come together

With “Beyond Time”, Montecore takes a bold and visionary step in the landscape of contemporary fashion. An artistic and narrative project conceived for Fall-Winter 25/26, created in collaboration with internationally renowned architect and designer Roberto Palomba. For the photo series, the artist worked with photographer Angelo Thomann, crafting a visual story that blends design sensitivity with auteur vision. The result is a three-dimensional narrative that explores time not as a chronometer, but as value, emotion, and memory. This is not just a campaign “Beyond Time” is a declaration of intent, an aesthetic and conceptual manifesto. During Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS26, from June 20 to 24, 2025, the story takes physical shape inside the Montecore showroom: the space transforms into a place of sharing, where fashion and visual art merge into a single immersive experience. A living installation that visitors can walk through, recognizing themselves in fragments of time captured through Palomba’s lens: “I wanted to freeze these impressions in images that would ultimately serve as an interaction with oneself a gentle and spontaneous mirror of the beauty of the Montecore world.”

Places, Gestures, Atmospheres

A compelling and evocative narrative told through images, brought to life over three days of shooting in the hills, beaches, and villages of a land steeped in history and beauty: the Marche region of Italy. The goal was not merely to document a collection, but to stage an idea the idea of time as an inner space, made of anticipation, bonds, and shared memories. Each look is built on carefully calibrated balance: technical and textured fabrics, measured volumes, and light, fluid layering. The dominant hues grey, blue, beige engage in dialogue with the surroundings, blurring the line between body and landscape, wardrobe and universe.

Photography as Design

Roberto Palomba does not merely sign the project he interprets and directs it, with the sensitivity of a storyteller and the approach of a designer. His photographs are visual storyboards, emotional tableaux composed with the same thoughtful precision he brings to his design objects. His is a search for truth, for the personal and the intimate:

“Through each shot, I sought to capture not only faces, but also the soul of the brand — its values, its authenticity, its truth.”

“I WAS LOOKING FOR A VISUAL CODE CAPABLE OF CONVEYING OUR CONCEPT OF ‘BEYOND TIME’ WITH AUTHENTICITY AND VISION. COLLABORATING WITH ROBERTO PALOMBA MEANT GIVING ARTISTIC FORM TO AN IDEA THAT HAS ALWAYS GUIDED US: CREATING GARMENTS THAT DON’T FOLLOW TIME, BUT TRANSCEND IT”

FABIO PERONI, FOUNDER OF MONTECORE

Some images from the “Beyond Time” project, created for the FW 25/26 collection by Montecore and Roberto Palomba

WHO IS ROBERTO PALOMBA

Founder, together with Ludovica Serafini, of the studio Palomba Serafini Associati in 1994, Palomba has always viewed design as a form of storytelling. With projects ranging from interior and exhibit design to architecture and industrial design, he has redefined the way objects inhabit space and perception. But his true distinctive trait remains his ability to “see beyond”: beyond the object, beyond the form, beyond time. This perspective also guides his passion for photography, which blossomed early in his youth and has been nurtured as a natural extension of his creative process. Each of his images is conceived as “a visual testimony of the heart of the project,” as in “Beyond Time,” where fashion and memory merge into a reflective mirror of human identity. A project that dresses not the body, but the soul.

“I WANTED TO TELL THE PROJECT AS IF IT WERE A FILM: CAPTURING PEOPLE’S MOMENTS AND FREEZING THEM IN TIME, TRANSFORMING EACH INSTANT INTO A MEANINGFUL FRAGMENT. IT WAS ALL VERY SIMPLE AND FUN: EVERYONE PARTICIPATED WITH ENTHUSIASM, IN A RELAXED AND AUTHENTIC WAY, LETTING GO, PLAYING WITH ME AND THE CAMERA”

ROBERTO PALOMBA, CO-FOUNDER STUDIO

PALOMBA SERAFINI ASSOCIATI

FINAL DATA

With the fourth edition of 100 Points of View, HUB Style analyzes the year just ended through the insights of 100 Italian multibrand boutiques

by Sara Fumagallo and Alessandro Marra

Adirect observatory, a lens focused on the fashion market from one of the most essential links in the supply chain: retailers. For the fourth consecutive year, HUB Style gathered the perspectives of 100 multibrand boutiques located throughout Italy 48 in the North, 22 in the Center, and 30 across the South and Islands to draw a detailed picture of the 2024 fashion year. The investigation painted an authentic portrait of a sector in constant transformation. From emerging trends to supply chain challenges, from digital innovations to growth opportunities, the retailers’ insights offered a landscape rich in analysis and ideas. All interviews are available in issues 02 and 03 of HUB Style, and can also be consulted online in the “The Magazine” section of our website. A must-read for anyone wishing to understand not only what happened but also what might happen in the Italian fashion market.

WOMENSWEAR BRANDS

MENSWEAR BRANDS

Scan the QR Code to download the digital versions of the latest issues.

1 Your relationship with Italian multibrand retailers appears to be a key strength in your journey. How do you collaborate with boutiques to strengthen distribution and maintain strong brand positioning?

2 What do you believe are the key factors that helped you reach the top of this sales channel in Italy?

3 What values or product qualities do you think made your brand so appreciated by a broad and loyal clientele?

BARBOUR

MARCO GIACCA, GLOBAL SALES DIRECTOR

WP and Barbour have had a relationship spanning over 40 years, and both have always shared the same market vision, placing great importance on the multibrand channel. Barbour’s global strategy has been adapted by WP in Italy, harmonizing it with the unique characteristics of our local distribution network. Today, each season, we work with no fewer than four segmented collections, applied to a distribution structure that has remained numerically stable over the years but has become far more structured.

If I had to sum it up, I’d say Barbour’s ability to convey its heritage and create an emotional connection between the brand’s legacy and today’s consumers has progressively won them over. A consistent vision, strategic clarity, and a pragmatism free from opportunism are shared values between Barbour and WP. I believe this philosophy has been understood and embraced by most of our clients.

Here are the top 18 best-selling menswear and womenswear brands of 2024. Barbour leads the rankings in both categories, followed by Herno Max Mara takes third place in womenswear, while Tagliatore claims third in menswear.

Barbour embodies an authentic narrative, rooted in the British countryside and European textile tradition. It’s an icon that has spanned five generations. The magic might even lie in Queen Elizabeth’s response when Barbour offered to rewax her Balmoral Beaufort jackets or replace them with new ones and she politely declined. I believe she felt as many of our customers do: it’s a garment you feel is yours, marked by the life you’ve lived together and destined to be passed on to the next generation, hoping it will be appreciated just as much.

DOMANDE

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S ACCESSORY BRANDS

Here are the top 18 best-selling accessory brands for men and women in 2024: Orciani leads the ranking, followed by Rains and Barbour

ORCIANI

CLAUDIA ORCIANI, CEO

First and foremost: ethics, transparency, reciprocity, and continuous support through an excellent customer care service. We stand by our retailers to ensure an efficient and clear flow. The price-quality ratio of our products fosters trust and loyalty, while the value of our creations ensures the brand’s strong and consistent market positioning. Today, Orciani stands as a true high-value alternative to fast fashion and an outdated concept of inaccessible luxury.

Above all, seriousness and integrity. Since the beginning, our brand has been built on values such as excellence, which guides our commercial processes as much as our craftsmanship and final products. With 46 years of made-in-Italy heritage, every collection is a tri-

bute to Italy and the beauty of its landscapes. The knowhow Orciani has developed over time now serves a present that constantly seeks innovation. We have a clear product identity that remains open to the rhythms of fashion. Moving between these seemingly opposing poles, we position ourselves as a benchmark for a timeless elegance that generates true value.

We are a brand with a clear and distinctive identity. Our products go beyond trends; they create value. We focus on detail, superior materials, and craftsmanship, driven by skilled and conscious artisans. Our approach to fashion, its production, and its consumption is more sustainable, mindful, and lasting. All of this creates high value that retailers can easily and clearly convey to their customers.

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S FOOTWEAR BRANDS

Here are the top 18 best-selling footwear brands for men and women in 2024. Autry continues to dominate this category, followed by Premiata and Valsport

AUTRY

ROBERTA BENAGLIA, CEO STYLE CAPITAL

1 The relationship with wholesale and thus with multibrand retailers is fundamental for brands like ours that are on a growth trajectory. Naturally, this will eventually run in parallel with the opening of directly managed monobrand stores, but we’re fully aware of the value of a strategy that supports ongoing market penetration via multibrand boutiques, with whom we build genuine commercial partnerships. For this reason, we are proud to be represented in professional retail spaces that display our brand alongside top Italian and international names, allowing us to reach the right clientele.

2 When I spoke of commercial partnerships, I meant precisely an open and honest dialogue with our re-

tailers, grounded in listening to market needs and interpreting them in line with the brand’s DNA. When both sides engage constructively, the outcome is extremely satisfying sales performance, which in turn makes the brand increasingly relevant and essential for the success of multibrand stores.

We fell in love with this project because we discovered a product and brand with timeless appeal, shielded from the risk of being a fleeting trend. What’s remarkable is how even the new product families we’ve introduced have maintained this identity, allowing us to reach an increasingly broad and diverse clientele.

Each retailer assigned 10 points to their top choice, 5 points to the second, and 1 point to the third in each product category

YEAR-END REPORT & FORECASTS

IN-STORE SALES PERFORMANCE IN 2024 (% VARIATION)

Increased: 55

Stable: 27

Decreased: 18

In 2024, 55% of retailers reported an increase in in-store sales, with an average growth of 8.3%. 22% indicated stability, while 18% experienced an average decline of 11%. A summary that reflects a dynamic and shifting market.

WHAT ARE THE SALES FORECASTS FOR 2025?

SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

DO CUSTOMERS TEND TO RESEARCH ONLINE BEFORE VISITING STORES, OR IS THE BOUTIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE STILL DOMINANT?

Boutique experience remains dominant: 40

Customers research online first: 28

Both coexist: 17

Not classifiable: 15

In 2024, the in-store boutique experience remains central for 40% of retailers. However, 28% report that customers are increasingly informed thanks to online research. For 17 respondents, both experiences coexist and complement each other.

WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF TECHNOLOGIES LIKE AUGMENTED REALITY (AR) OR VIRTUAL REALITY (VR) ON PURCHASES? ARE CUSTOMERS SEEKING MORE INTERACTIVE EXPERIENCES IN PHYSICAL STORES?

No interest/request: 90

Increased: 28

Stable: 33

Decreased: 21

Uncertain: 18

Forecasts for 2025 reveal a climate of cautious optimism: 28% of retailers expect sales growth, 33% anticipate stability, 21% fear a decline, and 18% express uncertainty.

ONLINE SALES

Open to using it in the future: 5

Noted increased interest: 2

Not reported: 3

In 2024, the impact of AR and VR on purchasing behavior remains marginal: 90 retailers report no customer interest, only 2 perceive a growing curiosity, and 5 consider these technologies potentially viable in the future.

IN 2024, WHAT PERCENTAGE OF YOUR TOTAL REVENUE CAME FROM ONLINE SALES? LESS THAN 10%

Despite challenges, online remains a vital showcase for boutiques. While 40% of respondents do not have an e-commerce platform, social media channels are widely used as promotional or sales tools only 3% of retailers do not use them. Instagram leads as the most used platform, followed by Facebook and TikTok.

BETWEEN 10% AND 30%

BETWEEN 30% AND 50% WE DO NOT HAVE AN E-COMMERCE

2024 proved to be a pivotal year for Barbour, which claims the top spot as the breakout brand of the year. For the first time since the debut of the 100 Points of View survey in 2022, Autry gives up the lead.

JASPER Original Hybrid

Sneaker

SAILING WITH STYLE

Italia Yachts is a shipyard with a tailor-made soul, deeply rooted in made in Italy craftsmanship, designing and building sailing boats—and now motorboats—where style and innovation sail together

There is an elegance that never goes out of fashion: made of perfect proportions, lasting details, and functional beauty. This is what you find in every boat signed Italia Yachts, where naval engineering meets timeless aesthetics. Born in Italy and raised with an international vision, the brand is led by Daniele De Tullio, entrepreneur and sailor, the very soul of the shipyard. With the passion of someone who comes from the sea and the vision of someone who knows where he wants to go, he has made Italia Yachts a benchmark for discerning and aware boat owners.

Three souls, one signature

The world of Italia Yachts is articulated in three collections, three different ways to experience the sea, united by a single vision of excellence.

BELLISSIMA

For those seeking relaxation and refinement. A line that combines comfort, elegance, and functionality, ideal for sailing with family or friends in spacious environments crafted down to the smallest detail.

FUORISERIE

Designed for those who love a challenge. Lightweight and high-performance hulls, cutting-edge materials, and total control. Boats built for racing, for owners who seek speed and precision.

VELOCE

The new motorboat. A 43-foot vessel that redefines the concept of the luxury weekender: elegant, powerful, and original. For those who live the sea with a free spirit but without giving up style and performance.

Italia Yachts stands out for its balance between technology and taste, between industrial vision and artisanal mastery. Boats designed and built in Italy: a synthesis that embodies the idea of technological and cultural excellence. A typically Italian approach, where as in fashion the cut makes the difference. In a setting like Pitti Immagine Uomo, which celebrates design, craftsmanship, and identity, Italia Yachts finds a natural harmony. Because it speaks to those who recognize the value of detail and beauty that needs no ostentation.

“BUILDING A BOAT IS AN ACT OF LOVE, BUT ALSO A STATEMENT OF STYLE. IT MUST SAIL WELL, BUT ABOVE ALL, SPEAK ABOUT THE PERSON WHO CHOOSES IT” DANIELE DE TULLIO, CEO ITALIA YACHTS

On the side: a shot of the IY43 Veloce, the first motorboat signed by Italia Yachts

Bottom left: an image of the IY 14.98 Bellissima, suitable for long cruises, boasting both aesthetic appeal and being marina-friendly

Bottom center: a photo of the IY 12.98 Bellissima, elegant and functional

Bottom right: the IY 9.98 Fuoriserie, lightweight, fast, and high-performing

AN ACE OF STYLE

SEASE launches “Tennis_Kit” and transforms Portrait Milano into an elegant tennis club where style and performance play the same match. A capsule collection that reinterprets the sport with a bold and contemporary vision

The brand founded by the Loro Piana brothers marks a decisive moment during Milan Men’s Fashion Week with the launch of the Tennis_Kit capsule, which blends technical performance, sartorial aesthetics, and lifestyle vision. To celebrate the debut, a pop-up at Antonia, located at Via Sant’Andrea 10 a strategic partner highlighting the brand’s premium positioning. The project is part of a broader narrative where SEASE redefines the boundaries between sport and fashion through shared languages of elegance, sustainability, and innovation. The choice of Portrait Milano, transformed for three days from June 21 to 25, 2025, into a true urban tennis club, is symbolic: a place where tennis is not only a sport but also culture, heritage, and networking. The capsule, designed for both men and women, is divided into three main lines: Pro, inspired by concrete courts, plays with gray tones and Solaro inserts. Club, which looks to the English tradition of grass tennis, features a strictly white palette, iconic polos, and unstructured blazers. Resort, more leisure and vacation-inspired, with turquoise seersucker and relaxed-fit linen-cotton polos. The looks are made with natural and responsible fabrics merino wool, hemp, linen reinterpreted through SEASE’s sartorial-tech language, blending heritage and performance. Tennis bags made of Dyneema with artisanal leather finishes complete a versatile and high-end offering. The campaign, shot in Portofino, stars former tennis player Feliciano López, a symbol of sporty elegance. This choice strengthens the brand narrative with a credible and cross-cutting figure able to connect sport and fashion. With this capsule, the brand consolidates its role in luxury activewear, targeting a new generation seeking authentic and functional style.

“SEASE WAS BORN WITH THE GOAL OF UNITING DIFFERENT WORLDS — SPORT, NATURE, CITY — INTO A SINGLE COHERENT VISION OF STYLE AND FUNCTIONALITY. WITH TENNIS_KIT, WE BRING OUR APPROACH TO THE COURT, STAYING TRUE TO SARTORIAL QUALITY AND MATERIAL RESEARCH” FRANCO LORO PIANA, CEO AND FOUNDER OF SEASE

COSMOPOLITAN VISION

Lodenfrey ushers in a new era of menswear: sartorial tradition and contemporary vision meet in a brand that has dressed men with elegance for 180 years

Lodenfrey is more than a brand: it is an institution. It was born from a revolutionary idea: the Loden, a water-resistant fabric and symbol of understated elegance, embraced by the Bavarian elite, and ever-evolving since. Its aesthetic, rigorous and refined, has transcended eras while maintaining an intact soul. After 180 years, the brand continues to dress the cosmopolitan man someone attentive to quality and captivated by a luxury that does not need to shout. Lodenfrey does not simply offer clothing; it delivers messages. It builds worlds. No ostentation, no chase after fleeting trends only authentic quality and a profound narrative that evokes both past and future with equal intensity.

For a global identity

Emblematic of this vision is the star piece of SS 26: a sharply tailored jacket in wrinkle-resistant memory fabric, designed for the contemporary man who seeks form and function without compromise. The chosen name? “Ludwig II,” a tribute to the quintessential romantic king. Ludwig, with his fairytale castles, embodies an iconic and visionary Germany. He is the perfect bridge between classicism and avant-garde, between fairy tale and innovation. “Our Ludwig jacket perfectly represents Lodenfrey’s spirit: it is the choice for those who love tradition updated with contemporary taste, and for many young people who now wear it—in winter paired with our Loden coats—to share a style full of charm and allure. Even with jeans,” says Leonard von Pfister, CEO of Lodenfrey.

An image of the Ludwig II jacket (SS 26) by Lodenfrey

ONE NAME, ONE MOVEMENT

Urban style, made in Italy craftsmanship, and a global vision. Moaconcept is the Florentine sneaker brand that champions social responsibility and positive change as its core mission. Looking beyond borders, it brings its philosophy across the ocean and onto the international stage

Behind Moaconcept, born in 2013, lies a strong idea. The brand’s name, an acronym for My Own Action, is more than a slogan: it’s a declaration of intent. Every step taken is a conscious choice, every product an act of responsibility. Led by CEO Matteo Tugliani and headquartered in Bagno a Ripoli, just outside Florence, Moaconcept is a Benefit Corporation that merges aesthetics, ethics, and innovation. The company has made Italian craftsmanship and social responsibility the pillars of an alternative fashion business model.

The circular sneaker: recycling, zero impact and community Moaconcept’s commitment translates into concrete actions notably, the sneaker recycling program within its community. The brand collects used sneakers at designated locations at its own expense, overseeing the process through to recycling and material repurposing. This initiative creates a unique bond with consumers “pairing up,” just like a sneaker pair fostering an engaged community and aiming to reduce environmental impact. It’s a simple yet powerful gesture that embodies circular economy principles, positioning sustainability not as a trend but as a structured path toward balancing fashion with social conscience.

AI 25: urban icons bridging past and future

Today, 80% of Moaconcept’s production is Made in Italy, a strategic choice that highlights artisanal quality while significantly cutting international logistics emissions. Many raw materials are sourced close to distribution centers, closing a virtuous loop that champions local supply chains and direct control. This approach is both ethical and aesthetic: every shoe tells a story of Italian craftsmanship, with meticulous attention to detail and top-tier construction. The AI 25 collections mark a creative evolution for the brand, blending urban aesthetics with functionality while reinterpreting ’80s and ’90s styles through a contemporary lens. New models like Flash and Kobe join the iconic Club, the dynamic Hype, and the essential Iconic lines. The collection strikes a balance between memory and innovation, vintage vibes and modern energy.

Flash: a journey through ’80s pop and today’s street culture

Among the new releases, Flash stands out. This sneaker pays tribute to the ’80s pop culture the music, breakdancing, and graffiti energy that defined a generation. A rich mix of materials nylon, suede, and leather crafts a silhouette that merges comfort, style, and urban attitude. Flash is more than footwear; it’s a manifesto. Designed for city dwellers with personality, it’s meant to tell a story, not just to be worn.

Global ambitions: Moaconcept lands in the USA

Building on its European success, Moaconcept is now making waves in the U.S. market, showing promising results with plans to establish a global footprint. Its distribution strategy grows increasingly ambitious, focusing on emerging markets with a coherent narrative that blends style, quality, and responsibility. Moaconcept is more than a sneaker brand it’s a tangible vision for the future, where every step taken is a step toward changing the world. With style.

Left: An emotive shot of the Club sneakers, the brand’s masterpiece.

Above: The Hype, with a running-chic cut; the new Kobe in three colorways - burgundy, brown, and forest green - and the essential Iconic in a fresh zebra print.

The Flash sneaker, new for SS 25, inspired by ’80s Pop culture

MODERN EASE

Brioni reintroduces its iconic Jardigan, the epitome of relaxed elegance, a timeless piece that transcends the rigidity of classic tailoring, adapting effortlessly to urban, professional, and informal settings.

by Valeria Oneto

There is something quintessentially Italian in a style that never tries too hard, yet always leaves an impression. It’s a whispered elegance composed of restrained gestures, soft lines, and details that only reveal themselves up close. It’s from this refined yet free-spirited approach that Brioni’s Jardigan was born.

Originally conceived in 1955 as an unexpected hybrid of a cardigan and a jacket, the Jardigan has traversed decades and trends without losing relevance.

Now, for Spring-Summer 2025, it returns lighter than ever reimagined in a luxurious blend of linen, wool, and silk, and offered in a timeless palette ranging from deep blues to earthy neutrals.

Wearing it is an experience. The unstructured form, absence of lapels, and fluid cut create an immediate sensation of ease and refinement. Nothing feels rigid, nothing is forced. The Jardigan has become a philosophy of dressing in itself: a garment designed for the modern man

seeking harmony between comfort and sophistication, between freedom and discipline. It glides over the body with the same nonchalance as sipping an espresso in a sun-drenched piazza or drifting through a Roman day without a watch. It is La Dolce Vita, woven into a garment.

A faithful evolution

Beneath this apparent ease lies meticulous attention to detail: Brioni’s sartorial craftsmanship, noble fabric selection, and the invisible precision of every seam. It is in this perfect balance between form and substance that the Jardigan affirms itself as a symbol of modern elegance an elegance that doesn’t chase trends, but transcends them, remaining true to itself. The Jardigan doesn’t just dress the body it reflects a state of mind. It belongs to those who have chosen to shed imposed rules, who find strength in simplicity, who believe that true class never needs to shout. The Jardigan is more than a garment. It is a declaration of style or rather, its most elegant whisper.

A few glimpses of Brioni’s Jardigan and its behind-the-scenes craftsmanship

THE POWER OF SILENCE

There is a corner of Italy where time has stopped, and nature has chosen to speak with an ancient and powerful voice. Man, the land, and silence: Lorenzoni tells the story of the calanchi of Basilicata

Asurreal, almost lunar landscape, reminiscent of the atmosphere in the cult film The Man Who Fell to Earth. It is precisely here that the new collection comes to life. The Lorenzoni man is a discreet yet unmistakable presence. His elegance is made of restraint, not ostentation. He walks among the cracks in the earth with the same natural ease with which he wears a mako cotton or raw linen shirt, proud of a refinement that doesn’t shout but still gets noticed. The cuts are modern but never aggressive: slightly elongated short sleeves, volumes that follow the body’s line without constraining it, raised round necks like waves gently caressing the neck.

The Elegance of Essentials

There is something deeply reassuring about this vision. Like the calanchi, the Lorenzoni man is built to last. He is resilient, measured, essential. And it is precisely in this silent balance that his most powerful charm lies. Each garment is a gesture of love toward the material. The yarns pure, sustainable, often recycled speak a noble language. The pierced and woven textures seem to trace the grooves of the earth, as if the hands of artisans had followed the contours of a geological map rather than a stylistic design.

Some shots from Lorenzoni’s SS 26 collection

THE SHAPE OF EARTH

A collection that whispers to the skin and speaks of the land: for SS 26, Arovescio reimagines the everyday with tactile poetry and an organic vision.

With Spring-Summer 2026, Arovescio continues its journey through nature and design, unveiling a collection that feels like it breathes.

The materials speak in a soft yet compelling voice: sun-washed cottons, airy linens, and fluid jerseys give shape to garments that tell stories of light, wind, and passing time. Surfaces are never ordinary softened washes, blurred airbrushing, and weathered finishes evoke the feeling of pieces already lived in, shaped by memory and smoothed by the years.

The color palette is rooted in the natural landscape: cocoa, sand, clay, scorched dust. Earth tones that don’t overwhelm the fabric, but settle gently on it like geological layers. It’s a palette that doesn’t seek contrast, but rather a quiet harmony with the environment, and with the person who wears it. Even the hues, like the yarns, seem to carry a story within.

The volumes are essential, yet meaningful. There’s no rigidity, no excess, only deconstructed lines, intuitive layering, and fluid silhouettes that follow the body’s natural rhythm. It’s a measured balance between spontaneity and structure, where every detail, even the most subtle, is the result of a conscious choice. Nothing is left to chance, even when it appears so. Arovescio’s SS26 collection doesn’t shout. Instead, it quietly lingers a visual and tactile memory that stays with you. A sensory narrative shaped by material, light, and time.

A selection of images from Arovescio’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection

CONSTANTLY EVOLVING

Blending textile innovation and essential design, Archivium redefines urban elegance for Spring-Summer 2026. And for the first time at Pitti Uomo, it shares its philosophy: one of understated, deliberate sophistication.

Archivium’s debut at Pitti Uomo does not go unnoticed. Innovation meets tailoring in a project that rewrites the rules of contemporary menswear. Born from a clear, independent vision, the brand doesn’t chase trends, it observes, interprets, and transcends them. Its style language is rooted in formal precision, cutting-edge materials, and genuine functionality. At the heart of this narrative lies the shirt, not merely a garment, but an archetype to be reimagined. This isn’t about nostalgia or revival, but about intentional reinvention: clean lines, balanced volumes, and high-tech fabrics that meet the needs of the modern, dynamic, and discerning urban man. The shirt becomes both a symbol and a tool of broader stylistic evolution.

The collection

For Spring-Summer 2026, Archivium expands its creative universe while remaining true to its DNA. Alongside the shirt the collection’s core come t-shirts, polos, and new contemporary-cut shirts designed for a versatile, city-ready wardrobe. Every piece stays loyal to the brand’s signature codes: essential design, minimalism, and meticulous attention to detail.

Yet it’s in textile research that Archivium truly sets itself apart. The collection features high-performance technical fabrics perforated textures, seersucker, piqué, and jersey alongside the brand’s iconic original fabric. Breathability, lightness, and structural integrity are never compromised. Every fiber, every texture is the result of deliberate design, expressing a thoughtful and sustainable fashion philosophy.

...and more

The brand also unveils a new promotional video that breaks away from traditional fashion communication. In line with Archivium’s conceptual and visual identity, the film is a striking, unconventional piece, not simply a showcase, but a statement of intent. Aesthetic tension, ethereal rhythm, and visual purity converge. More than a campaign, it’s a manifesto of Archivium’s vision.

A selection of images from Archivium’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection

THE LEGEND CONTINUES

BORN ON THE WAVES

From screen to street, a timeless icon that stands for freedom and authenticity. Today, Bear Surfboards blends ’70s nostalgia with modern function, speaking to a new generation of urban nomads

Bear Surfboards was born on a wave a cinematic one, rich in emotion and meaning, that’s been crashing into the hearts of style-conscious souls since 1978. It all started with Big Wednesday, the cult film by John Milius that follows three friends, their bond through surfing, and the passage of time. But it’s the character of Bear the rugged, wise surfboard shaper who became the true legend: a man who carves more than just boards; he shapes symbols of freedom.

Surfing as a way of life, not just a sport

From Hollywood mythology to cult lifestyle brand, Bear Surfboards has evolved into a label known first for its hand-shaped surfboards, and later for its laid-back apparel collections. The iconic logo a bear inside a red diamond quickly became a symbol for those seeking more than just a graphic tee, but a lifestyle. The brand’s collections channel the vintage soul of 1970s California while staying grounded in modern practicality. Oversized sweatshirts, sun-faded tees, retro swimwear, lightweight jackets and minimal accessories each piece is designed for nature lovers who live in the city. For those who carry the taste of salt on their skin, even miles from the shoreline.

Check out the full range from Bear Surfboards (@bear_surfboards.eu), distributed by Italian company Falis (@weare_falis)

ANYWHERE IS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE

BORN OUT OF THE DOLOMITES CRAFTED BY PIONEERS AND WORN BY ADVENTURERS SINCE 1897.

CAREZZA GO

WHEN FASHION MEETS SPORT: ACTIVE FASHION IS BORN

Macron Clubhouse is a manifesto of style and performance, blending the best of sports and fashion into garments designed for those who live with passion

At the intersection of innovation in sport and style comes Clubhouse, the high-end collection from Macron Europe’s leading name in technical sportswear which redefines the concept of Active Fashion. By combining high-performance fabrics with the allure of Italian design, Clubhouse is more than a clothing line: it’s a community of enthusiasts who share a passion for sport, its core values, and the pursuit of beauty and distinctive style.

The future of sportswear is sartorial Drop03 by Macron Clubhouse embraces contrast without fear: athletic cuts meet couture lines, technical fabrics pair with a refined palette everything exists in perfect balance. While its heart remains rooted in sport, its language now speaks the vocabulary of urban luxury. The colour palette makes a statement: alongside classic black and iconic Macron green come hues inspired by nature and motion Ocean, Sand, Water, and Pale Brick. The men’s line is an ode to elegant dynamism. These pieces are made for a man constantly on the move, who refuses to choose between comfort and class. It’s sportswear, yes but with the attitude of a tailored blazer. The women’s collection draws inspiration from yoga and wellness, while never losing its fashion edge. With contemporary fits, oversized outerwear, and smart layering, the Clubhouse woman’s wardrobe seamlessly transitions from a pilates class to evening drinks. Glossy finishes paired with structured puffers create a bold and chic effect.

Archival image courtesy of Macron Clubhouse

A REBELLIOUS, GLOBAL SOUL

From the beating heart of Portobello Road to the world. This is the story of the rebellious spirit behind a timeless brand: Pepe Jeans London

Born in the vibrant, vintage-flavored chaos of Portobello Road’s markets during the roaring 1970s, Pepe Jeans London is more than just a brand it’s a manifesto of free, bold, and cosmopolitan style. With a DNA deeply rooted in London’s street culture, the brand has always embodied the irreverence and creative energy of new generations. It all began in 1973, when three brothers Arun, Nitin, and Milan Shah set up a market stall on one of London’s most eclectic boulevards. Within a few years, that modest setup evolved into a phenomenon. The secret? A clear vision: to elevate denim through tailored cuts, daring washes, and a rebellious attitude that redefined the rules.

Denim as urban language

At Pepe Jeans, denim isn’t just fabric it’s visual storytelling and a statement of identity. From slim silhouettes to oversized fits, every piece is designed to adapt to the body and spirit of its wearer. The attention to detail borders on obsessive; every pair of jeans tells a story of individuality, belonging, and transformation. The classic five-pocket? Reinvented. The ‘70s flare? Made modern. The cropped jean? Irresistibly urban. This label speaks to those who break the mold, who see fashion as an extension of their inner world. It doesn’t dictate trends it provides tools to write your own. That’s why it continues to resonate with generations of outsiders, artists, creatives, and free spirits around the globe. Wearing Pepe Jeans is like walking through Camden Town, living the night in Shoreditch, or getting lost among the graffiti of the Underground it’s living London, wherever you are.

Images from the SS25 season of Pepe Jeans, distributed in Italy by Falis (@weare_falis)

INVISIBLE CONNECTIONS

There’s something about lived-in objects that tells more than what meets the eye. Satorisan’s new SS26 collection explores that subtle thread connecting aesthetics, emotion, and memory

Some follow trends, others choose to wear a story. For Satorisan, it’s a journey through feelings, materials, and the Japanese philosophy of furui mono ancient objects that bear the imprint of time, evoking nostalgia, reverence, and authenticity. Each model is the result of a slow and mindful process, where the choice of materials, the attention to detail, and the human touch behind each piece become integral to the product’s value. It is here that the invisible but powerful connection is born.

Used & Wrinkled: the charm of imperfection

The SS26 collection faithfully carries forward the Used & Wrinkled concept—embracing the genuine beauty of things that have been lived in, those that don’t fear the wrinkles of time but wear them as marks of character. Among the standout models this season is the Chacrona Linen Elastic: the iconic silhouette reimagined with function in mind, featuring two elastic bands that embrace the foot no laces needed. The body is crafted from premium linen, paired with top-grade leathers sourced from LWG Gold-certified tanneries in Spain and the UK. The same philosophy applies to the new Stardust Montblanc, inspired by 1960s football boots. A new linen-cotton blend fabric (50/50) ensures breathability and lightness, while reinforced stitching and a leather logo maintain its retro soul. A perfect mix of vintage charm and contemporary sensibility. Finally, a bold comeback: the Kwahu Man Canvas Vintage, Satorisan’s own take on the classic wallaby, now updated with a canvas made of 65% recycled cotton.

Left: Chacrona Linen Elastic Marshland by Satorisan Center and right: Stardust Montblanc Diving Green by Satorisan

BACK TO THE ROOTS

ellesse unveils a collection that merges tradition and innovation. New sneakers, a bold identity, and a global relaunch by Nice Brand Lab

Areturn to roots with eyes set firmly on the future. ellesse celebrates its heritage and relaunches its vision with the Spring-Summer 2026 collection an ode to Italian style and the effortless charm that has always defined the brand, both on and off the court. At the heart of this new phase lies the SS26 footwear collection, designed by Nice Brand Lab, global partner of Pentland Brands. At its core: brand-new silhouettes, striking designs, and a strong sense of identity, marking a decisive creative evolution. Sportiness becomes a pleasure, style turns conscious, and every detail speaks a more refined and mature visual language. The undisputed star is the LS914, an off-court sneaker named after the height of a tennis net (91.4 cm), a nod to the brand’s tennis roots. With clean lines, full volumes, and a powerful visual identity, it’s a contemporary statement that blends aesthetics and functionality, style and authenticity. For its official debut, ellesse has chosen Pitti Uomo 108: an immersive experience designed to tell the story of the brand in a direct and engaging way.

“THE SS26 COLLECTION MARKS A PIVOTAL SEASON FOR ELLESSE, A REAL TURNING POINT. AT PITTI, WE’RE UNVEILING MAJOR INNOVATIONS WITH A FOOTWEAR LINE THAT BRINGS US BACK TO OUR ORIGINS: HERITAGE, ITALIAN STYLE, AND A TRUE SPORTING SPIRIT. FROM A STYLISTIC POINT OF VIEW, WE REVISITED ALL THE VALUES THAT HAVE DEFINED THE BRAND SINCE THE 1980S, REINTERPRETING THEM TO CREATE REFINED, CONSCIOUS PRODUCTS THAT FUSE INNOVATION WITH TIMELESS, AUTHENTIC DESIGN.”

“THE SS26 COLLECTION IS THE START OF A REAL BRAND RESET. OUR WORK GOES BEYOND OPERATIONS—IT’S ALSO CREATIVE AND STRATEGIC, AIMED AT BUILDING A STRONG, INTERNATIONAL IDENTITY.”

NICK CARLISLE, STRATEGIC BUSINESS DEVELOPER, NICE BRAND LAB

COO & HEAD OF PRODUCT, NICE FOOTWEAR

A glimpse into ellesse’s fresh vision for SS26

GO ANYWHERE, FEEL EVERYWHERE

Blending city life with the great outdoors, Dolomite introduces a shoe designed to move freely through every environment. Lightweight, sustainable, and responsive—Carezza Go is the standout launch of SS26 and a future icon in the making

Dolomite unveils a new lifestyle essential that fuses freedom, versatility, and everyday comfort:

Carezza Go. Inspired by the brand’s Carezza family, this latest evolution adopts a fresh, urban spirit. Built for both crowded sidewalks and shaded woodland paths, it redefines where and how you move. For summer 2026, Dolomite also turns to serious hikers with the Vernale Hike Low GTX, featuring a waterproof GORE-TEX membrane, Vibram XS Trek Evo outsole with Traction Lug, and premium LWG-certified suede upper engineered for peak performance on any terrain.

Carezza Go

Carezza Go makes a striking first impression with its clean, modern design, perfectly balancing aesthetics and utility. But what truly sets it apart is substance. The upper

is crafted from 50% recycled canvas, reflecting Dolomite’s growing commitment to sustainability. Twin side vents ensure impressive breathability, even on long summer days or in transit. Anatomically studied construction allows the shoe to gently follow the foot’s motion, delivering natural, cushioned support with zero pressure points. Its bold, oversized midsole breaks convention without sacrificing visual appeal. Featherlight and reactive, it provides dynamic cushioning across all surfaces from pavement to gravel, cobblestones to trails. The outsole seals the deal with an adaptive compound built for reliable grip in both city streets and natural settings. The unisex silhouette comes in five summer-ready shades inspired by earth, sky, and water. Completing the line is the Carezza Go Leather, featuring the same thoughtful structure but updated in supple Nubuck ideal for shifting weather or urban adventures.

A preview of Dolomite’s SS26 collection

LEADING THE CHANGE

ACBC is entering a new phase of growth, driven by innovation, accountability, and a global mindset

by Cristiano Zanni and Sara Fumagallo

In a fashion industry under increasing pressure to match actions with words, ACBC (Anything Can Be Changed) stands out as one of the most credible and forward-thinking players in sustainable fashion. But the Milan-based company is no longer just known for its vegan sneakers it has evolved into a full-scale sustainability consultancy, helping brands redesign products and supply chains through a sciencebased, measurable approach. Sustainability here isn’t just a narrative it’s strategy, structure, and substance. Following Gyrus Capital’s entry as majority shareholder, ACBC is fast-tracking its evolution: strategic acquisitions, European expansion, and real, actionable responsibility are at the core of this next chapter. We sat down with Gio Giacobbe, CEO and co-founder, to discuss future goals, industry challenges, and how sustainability at 360 degrees—is shaping the company’s identity.

What are the most significant outcomes of Gyrus Capital’s majority stake acquisition, and how is it impacting your revenue forecasts?

The partnership with Gyrus Capital is a major boost to our

growth strategy. We’re actively scouting acquisition targets that could broaden our service portfolio in both domestic and international markets. We’re also preparing to open branches in key European regions, especially Germany, France, and Spain. Revenue-wise, we’re targeting a 20% year-over-year growth in 2025, aiming to surpass €20 million. It’s a strong and steady climb.

ACBC made its name with sneakers. What role do they play today in your product mix, given your expansion into apparel and other categories? Sneakers still account for around 50% of our business; the other half is now made up of formal footwear. Today’s consumer is split: sneaker lovers are drawn to technically advanced brands with deep product knowledge, while formal shoes still have a market—though it’s evolving. It’s no longer just about fashion, but perceived value. Spending €500–600 on a luxury sneaker often doesn’t match the actual quality, and more consumers now recognize that. Authentic, technically sound products are winning.

ACBC x Cacio Pepe introduces a new era of responsible luxury: a sneaker collection made with FreeBio materials, merging Italian elegance and next-gen eco-tech

Gio Giacobbe, CEO and co-founder of ACBC

The ACBC x Alexander Smith line pairs ’90s nostalgia with cuttingedge green design

How does your new Milan HQ at Via Signorelli 10 fit into ACBC’s expansion plans?

Our new headquarters is designed as an innovation hub part showroom, part lab. It’s a space where we can demonstrate our patents, technologies, and product strategies. It embodies our hands-on, product-based approach to sustainability.

What’s the current ratio between Italian and international clients?

Roughly 70% of our clients are Italian, with the remaining 30% mostly from France. Our goal, with the help of European expansion, is to create a more balanced distribution across markets.

How central is sustainability to ACBC’s philosophy and operations?

It’s everything it’s our core business. We work daily to deliver real, accessible solutions that make sustainability economically attractive. Even a 1% reduction in emissions or impact is a win. But for real change, companies need to rethink processes and operations and that’s where we come in. Often, we start from the ground up.

What role will ACBC play at Lineapelle in September 2025, and why did you choose this event?

Lineapelle is a key moment for us it puts us in direct contact with the players who manage materials and components, the backbone of the supply chain. Our presence there will highlight how our sustainability expertise can support the industry’s entire transition journey.

You recently acquired the communication agency Guitar. How does that fit into your broader strategy?

Telling the sustainability story clearly and credibly is essential. Guitar brings over 35 years of communication experience and joins us with the goal of becoming a benchmark for sustainability-focused communication. This allows us to offer clients more than just strategy and product development we now deliver end-to-end messaging, too.

What led you to choose Guitar specifically for this acquisition?

The partnership was organic we worked on several projects together and immediately clicked in terms of vision and values. That synergy naturally led to a deeper collaboration. We finalized the agreement back in July 2024, and we’re now officially integrated.

Has there been a decline in brands’ interest in sustainability, or is it just perception?

It’s a valid concern. The market is complex right now. Large companies those turning over a billion are legally required to file ESG reports, so they’re pulling the supply chain with them. SMEs, however, often only engage in sustainability if it brings operational or cost benefits. The truth is, for many, sustainability isn’t the end goal it’s about efficiency. That’s where we come in: helping them adopt green strategies that also improve their bottom line. But we must be honest many are still lagging behind.

Sustainability isn’t just about product it’s about people, too. How are you addressing this aspect?

We’re active on the social front as well, though our main strength remains product. We have a dedicated team that supports clients with ESG reporting and social sustainability planning. Our goal is to help companies move beyond compliance to generate positive impact throughout the entire value chain.

ACBC and Lotto’s “OOH!” tennisinspired sneakers are made in Italy from recycled materials what really stands out is the sole and upper construction

ACBC and Ternua’s Red Bay SP-2 makes sustainability transparent through a Digital Product Passport. Scan and learn everything: origin, certifications, supply chain

With Coccinelle, the SS25 collection brings the C-Bounce shopping bag: innovation meets style

THE RETURN OF IRREVERENT ELEGANCE

Johnny Lambs redefines Italian sportswear with its SS26 collection

An international-sounding name with a proudly Italian soul. Johnny Lambs

Gianni Agnelli’s Anglophone alter ego returns to the spotlight for Spring-Summer 2026 with a collection that blends elegance, provocation, and a distinctly modern edge. This relaunch, helmed by Angelo Loffredo, the brand’s current artistic and commer cial director, puts a timeless essential back at the heart of the male wardrobe: the polo shirt. Launched in 1978 during New York’s Casual Friday movement when corporate types relaxed their dress code ahead of the weekend Johnny Lambs has always stood for ironic, refined sports elegance. Over 40 years later, the brand reconnects with its Italian heritage and reshapes its identity with a new focus on technicality, clean lines, and global sophistication. SS26 marks a bold comeback, fusing history with an eye for Italian taste and a mission to rewrite the rules of contemporary menswear. As Loffredo puts it, “We don’t do everything but what we do, we do brilliantly.” Turns out, that’s more than enough.

Main Heritage

This cornerstone line reflects the brand’s new chapter: timeless staples updated with stretch fabrics, premium yarns, and a refined palette from pearl grey to deep navy. The balance is pure Italian: bourgeois polish meets urban utility, punctuated by details like an integrated foulard-pocket square an understated style signature.

The Club

With The Club, Johnny Lambs pays tribute to tennis, the most elegant of sports. Two capsules per year, inspired by iconic global tournaments, tell the story of a man who

blends discipline with freedom, tradition with performance. Technical materials, sharp cuts, and sleek colors turn sportwear into a statement of quiet luxury.

Main Heritage Plus

Here, the foulard becomes a sartorial symbol. Printed on cashmere and physically attached to each garment like a bespoke tag, it stands as a visual manifesto of understated sophistication. For those who live by “less is more,” but still enjoy playing with fashion’s finer details.

Top: A look from the winter collection

Middle: Johnny Lambs logo

Bottom: New SS26 proposal

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN VALUES

YOUR URBAN NATURAL SKIN

SUMMER ON THE MOVE

From technical fabrics to refined knitwear, from nature-inspired tones to elevated details, the SS26 season reimagines the modern man’s wardrobe through a lens of freedom and versatility. Leading the charge is the skipper polo, a timeless summer staple that captures a dynamic and carefree

by Maria Pina Ciuffreda

CREATIVE SPARK

Taking inspiration from the element of fire, Ferrante unveils a capsule defined by airy textures and raw elegance. Lightweight materials linen, silk, ice cotton, garment-dyed jersey and piqué come together in a palette of earthy browns, soft greens and desert beiges. Loose silhouettes and contemporary accents open-knit details, shirt-style collars breathe new life into traditional knitwear.

TALES OF YOUTH

Set against a backdrop of sun-drenched farmhouses, ancient olive trees and dusty trails, Impulso offers a poetic tribute to leisure, simplicity, and summer memories. Inspired by the landscapes of Basilicata, the collection weaves together natural shades pure white, beige, sky blue with sunrise pinks and wide sailor stripes, transforming each piece into a wearable memory of the southern countryside.

SUMMER STORIES

Cruna unveils Mediterranean Journey, its Spring-Summer 2026 collection, a celebration of the Italian summer told through four iconic moments of style and lifestyle. From the urban energy of Urban Explorer to the nautical elegance of Maritime Club, from the raw freedom of Waves and Sand to the refined charm of Sunset Lights, each chapter pays tribute to the authenticity of true Italian craftsmanship.

THE POWER OF STORYTELLING

Pal Zileri’s new collection draws inspiration from the timeless allure of Scheherazade and the enchanting tales of One Thousand and One Nights. Sophisticated silhouettes, luxurious textures and a palette infused with spice tones, sandy hues and starry skies create a wardrobe with exotic elegance and regal attitude.

A SUMMER BUILT FOR COMFORT

Scaglione strikes a harmonious balance between sophistication and ease with a collection designed for sun-drenched days and warm evenings. Natural yarns like stretch linen, cotton and silk are crafted into light, breathable pieces that adapt elegantly to any moment of the day. At the core is the skipper polo, reinterpreted in exclusive new styles that blend comfort with Italian design heritage.

THE BEAUTY OF RESTRAINT

A quietly “fancy” elegance, designed for those who value authenticity and attention to detail. Slowear offers a refined take on the ultimate summer staple, enriching it with jacquard textures, subtle color contrasts and elevated craftsmanship.

KNITWEAR LOOKING AHEAD

With over 40 years of expertise in high-quality knitwear, Annapurna blends tradition and experimentation. Bold volumes, saturated colors, and refined craftsmanship transform cashmere into a unique and contemporary style that breaks the mold while staying true to its roots.

WHERE EXCELLENCE IS BORN

At the heart of Neapolitan tradition, Kiton continues to redefine men’s elegance. Each piece combines artisanal mastery, premium materials, and timeless style. Here, innovation and heritage coexist in perfect harmony, giving rise to collections that are both sophisticated and modern.

BETWEEN TRAVEL AND INNOVATION

Travel becomes a tangible experience with Jeanne Baret, a brand that merges functional design, high-performance materials, and clean, modern aesthetics. Natural tones and innovative fabrics from technical knits to cotton seersucker are crafted to accompany women through every daily adventure.

ITALIAN SPRING

Bramante 1986 is a breath of style that captures the genuine beauty of slow living. Fluid lines, natural yarns, and sun-kissed tones weave together into garments that evoke Mediterranean light, tranquility, and freedom. An effortless, intimate elegance for those who see simplicity as a daily luxury.

WEIGHTLESS AND IMPACTFUL

Kangra invites us to rediscover the beauty of simplicity. Natural fabrics, breezy silhouettes, and hues that recall summer light define this collection. Cashmere becomes light and airy, ideal even in the warmer months, while linen and cotton offer effortless, authentic elegance.

THE EVOLUTION OF MENSWEAR

Giannetto Portofino expands its stylistic identity with a versatile, all-round collection. Alongside its iconic shirting, the brand introduces new pieces tailored for the modern man whether in the city or on holiday. Elegant swimwear, jersey jackets and vests, garmentdyed polos, functional overshirts, and stone-washed outerwear define a relaxed yet refined approach to menswear.

NATURE AS EXPERIENCE

Avant Toi paints a wild yet refined landscape, where every garment bears the mark of lived authenticity. The brand’s signature handdyeing techniques infuse unstructured jackets, irregular knits, and overdyed shirts with earthy, imperfect tones. Gentle touches of wisteria pink break the palette with poetic lightness, in a season that celebrates both rootedness and transformation.

A TRIBUTE TO HERITAGE

Telacruda introduces East of Blue, a collection that fuses the discipline of Japanese wardrobes with the textured poetry of indigo dyeing. Sartorial inspirations and reimagined silhouettes—like the Kyoto kimono and Scott pants—honor Japanese dyers and the deep roots of denim culture.

BEYOND ORDINARY

Simone Martucci redefines contemporary elegance with a collection that merges the finest Italian tradition with cutting-edge technologies. Natural fabrics, precious yarns, and handcrafted details come together in garments with dynamic yet refined fits designed to express true individuality.

EFFORTLESS CHARM

With its unmistakable style and signature relaxed elegance, Boglioli delivers a perfect look for the warm season. The garment-dyed linen field jacket pairs naturally with a suede overshirt and striped cotton knit tee, while lightweight twill relaxed-fit trousers complete the outfit with understated sophistication.

NEW FACE

D.A.T.E. unveils its SS26 collection and reimagines one of its most iconic models: the Torneo Canvas. Celebrating its 20th anniversary, the brand updates the classic sneaker with an elegant, contemporary textile symbolizing a journey of innovation grounded in urban DNA. A bold, forward-looking collection defined by cutting-edge materials and restless spirit.

TERRE DU DÉSERT

Doucal ’s summer collection is a contemplative journey through Italy’s arid and evocative landscapes, where time settles and nature carves out pure, silent forms. Inspired by the solemnity of the Murgia, the geometries of the Accona Desert, and the sculpted terrains of Sardinia and Sicily, the season embraces an essential aesthetic of faded hues and tactile materials that whisper stories of stillness and light.

LEISURE SPIRIT

Manzoni 24 presents a collection that blends Italian tailoring with a relaxed sensibility. Woven leathers, light-effect suede, and natural fabrics define a refined yet easygoing menswear aesthetic. Signature outerwear pieces, linen-and-silk polos, unstructured blazers, and earth-toned shades come together to create a complete, laid-back luxury look.

ROOTS

Caruso expresses a fresh and conscious playful elegance, with tailored garments that enhance the body without constriction. Fine fabrics and sophisticated details blend with soft silhouettes and tones inspired by Mediterranean landscapes. From the Aida jacket to lightweight shirts and the wool seersucker safari jacket.

AMERICAN HERITAGE

Four distinct stylistic worlds, between footwear and apparel, make up Sebago’s refined and complete wardrobe, designed for those who seek modern and versatile elegance. Comfortable volumes meet a practical aesthetic, rooted in American heritage and reinterpreted in a contemporary way.

CONTEMPORARY RELAXATION

Eton blends classic tailoring with a contemporary and relaxed aesthetic, thanks to light fabrics, modern silhouettes, and refined details. A sophisticated and functional summer wardrobe is born, where refined textures and modular design meet in natural elegance.

PAINTING MEMORY

In BOB’s creative lab, the historical archive becomes living art: each garment comes to life through unique brushstrokes and gradient dyes that tell one-of-a-kind stories. Between tailoring and experimentation, the artisan-artist’s hand signs each piece, making it an authentic work.

TRAVEL DESIGN

Aida Barni presents an exclusive leather suitcase, lined in fine cashmere an accessory of luxury that combines craftsmanship and functionality. Inside, an elegant three-color mouliné crewneck and an ultralight pastel green cashmere basic, a lightness expression of Italian style for the modern man.

THE PERFECT ACCESSORY

Felisi launches the new bag from the Yachting line, a tribute to summer and the elegance of Italian nautical design. Made of white rubberized technical fabric, lined with blue and white stripes, the bag combines resistance and innovation, while light calfskin finishes highlight its purity and refinement.

ENGLISH TRADITION

Barbour celebrates the summer season with an explosion of vibrant colors from orange to fuchsia, yellow to green featured in elegant polos, fresh trousers, sun hats, and lightweight cotton jackets, unlined and designed for a summer of style and practicality.

DESIGNER RAINWEAR

Created for those who live the city with energy, Kimonorain transforms rain protection into a daily fashion experience redefining the concept of outerwear with innovative materials and a versatile design.

workwear. Shirts and trousers made of durable nylon are enhanced with military green ripstop details from pockets to yoke that highlight the collection’s rugged, technical soul.

GOOD VIBES ONLY

Soldini 80 embodies pop joy. The Spring-Summer 2026 collection doesn’t follow seasons but interprets trends with a cross-cutting approach, inspired by the visual and cultural imagination of the '80s. Sneaker names evoke comics, films, and cartoons with no vintage nostalgia offering modern shoes designed for stylish everyday wear.

WHEN FASHION MEETS RESPONSIBILITY

Born out of love for nature and the urgency to protect it, Origin of Line stands out for its continuous research into natural fibers, with a special focus on textile hemp. The brand goes beyond aesthetics, defining a unique language that translates functionality and design into authentic, recognizable garments.

THE PERFECT COMPANION

Porter International unveils the ideal backpack with buckle and drawstring closure, organized pockets, a 14” laptop compartment, padded straps, and a chest buckle. Complete with side pockets, trolley sleeve, and exclusive accessories, it’s the perfect blend of sophisticated design and smart practicality.

AN ODE TO STYLE URBAN OUTDOOR

Blauer USA reinvents everyday style. Blending technical performance with heritage details, the SS26 line celebrates movement, personality, and authenticity. Contemporary design meets comfort and protection across four men’s and women’s themes, plus a special capsule dedicated to leather, shaping a modern lifestyle that bridges city and nature.

STYLE JOURNEY

Duno presents a collection that’s a true style journey between elegance and functionality. Designed for seasonal transitions, it features innovative, high-performance fabrics and two identities: Timeless and Contemporary Vibration the latter fresher and bolder, combining balanced volumes with forwardlooking materials.

A HARMONIC DIALOGUE

The new frontier of menswear: between tech-forward innovation and sartorial know-how, Markup crafts a collection blending performance and refinement. Clean lines and hi-tech materials shape dynamic, lightweight pieces perfect for urban rhythms, while noble fabrics and artisanal details elevate everyday elegance.

ITALIAN MINIMALISM

The SS26 collection by Corso Mille tells a new story of contemporary elegance: understated, refined, and deeply tied to Italian heritage. Collection highlights include polos and sweatshirts in cotton and cotton/Coolmax, made for effortless style throughout the summer.

POP LOOK

Vibrant colors, absolute lightness, and international flair: Eyepetizer transforms eyewear into a true fashion statement. Each model blends irony and precision, capturing a new concept of urban elegance dynamic, cosmopolitan, and unexpected. With Eyepetizer, your look gets lighter, never dull.

BETWEEN A GLORIOUS PAST AND URBAN FUTURE

Lotto Leggenda lifts the curtain on Autograph, its reinvented icon: a style journey blending 1973’s sports heritage with contemporary streetwear. Retro silhouettes, refined details, and an urban soul reflect fifty years of style and innovation.

THE RHYTHM OF GLOWING SUNLIGHT

MOSSO Sunwear draws an aesthetic of light, calm, and awareness. Inspired by soft Mediterranean mornings, the collection features fluid lines, refined materials, and sun-washed colors that evoke memories of summer and essential

STYLE STATEMENTS

Biagini’s classic Wave duffel returns for SS26 in an elegant patina Wine version. Crafted in canvas and handpainted leather a symbol of true craftsmanship this model blends soft structure with exclusive details for a timeless and sophisticated character.

LIVE THE SPACE, DEFY THE ELEMENTS

Bomboogie continues its stylistic evolution with a focus on essentials. Clean lines and expertly treated technical and natural materials give life to minimal yet highly functional pieces, shaping a summer wardrobe that’s versatile, effortless, and perfectly balanced.

IN THE NAME OF MADE IN ITALY

Inspired by the intimate, precious atmosphere of Venice, Barmas Venezia combines clean lines and noble fabrics for a distinctive elegance. Details like toneon-tone stitching and real horn buttons highlight the brand’s artisanal care and signature style.

FUTURISTIC JOURNEY

Piquadro reinvents the Corner line for SS26 with metallic surfaces, technical finishes, and high-performance details fusing futurism and lightness. At its core is the Corner backpack, featuring an aerospace-inspired thermoregulating panel for constant comfort attuned to body temperature.

THE VIBRANT SPIRIT OF COPENHAGEN

The new collection by 04651 / A Trip in a Bag captures a city holiday where culture, design, and freedom blend in an engaging rhythm. From skateparks to museums and hidden corners, each garment reflects the geometric elegance of Danish design and the warm, nuanced colors of the Nordic capital channeling a mindful summer of exploration.

A HIGH-PERFORMANCE SUMMER

Ten c distinguishes itself through bold dialogues between materials and progressive design, offering an urban look with a contemporary spirit. The palette fuses warm and cool metallic tones, while the innovative OJJ Titanium—born from nanotechnology—gives garments unprecedented resistance and waterproof performance.

HANDCRAFTING

The new collection by Enterprise Japan conversation between Italian handcraft and Japanese visual culture. A standout summer style is Isla, featuring a braided rope sole. Bold color palettes, time-worn surfaces, and meaningful materials express stories, not just trends.

THE EXPLORATION OF SHAPES

Montecore takes you on an aesthetic journey into the pure essence of form. The collection balances function and style, evolving seamlessly from work to leisure. The brand’s iconic pieces Peacoat, Trench, Raincoat, Field Jacket are renewed with clean silhouettes and essential details, embodying pragmatic elegance that strips away excess to reveal substance.

NO COMPROMISES

Tatras reinvents the classic bomber with a nylon microfiber jacket boasting a silky, glossy finish and top-tier water-repellent performance. A garment that fuses elegance and technology, designed for those who never want to sacrifice style even on the most unpredictable days.

THE ART OF KNOW-HOW

ANT45 introduces PURE, a capsule of four-season socks blending sustainable innovation with artisanal mastery. Made from organic cotton and certified wool, hand-crafted on vintage double-cylinder machines, the PURE collection is skin-friendly, plastic-free, and finished with sartorial details like contrast linking, inspired by sky and sea hues.

LIGHTNESS THAT DEFIES TIME

Premiata reinvents the windbreaker with ultra-light ripstop nylon: tear- and abrasion-resistant yet surprisingly practical thanks to its pocketable design. Every detail from seams to accessories is crafted to transform this technical garment into a contemporary style icon.

METROPOLITAN LOOK

FORMAL, BUT NOT TOO MUCH

Paoloni embraces a “formal, but not too much” style, where unlined jackets, lightweight wools, and linens pair with jersey and knitwear for unexpected comfort. Warm, earthy tones blend with natural fabrics and washed treatments, creating balanced volumes and garments with a relaxed yet refined soul.

THE SUIT REINVENTED

Daniele Alessandrini presents SUITABLE, a capsule collection that redefines the men’s suit with timeless comfort and contemporary elegance. Around 30 versatile models designed to accompany the modern man from workdays to special events.

Valsport invites a rediscovery of everyday style authenticity. The collection’s star, the sneaker, shines in special leathers and faded tones. The palette ranges from refined neutrals to vibrant, fresh shades resulting in versatile styles enriched with fine details and retro accents.

BETWEEN SKY AND FABRIC

Rubinacci unveils a sahariana in bluette hopsack wool for Spring-Summer 2026. The lightweight, breathable fabric combined with the refined hue expresses the brand’s sartorial mastery ideal for the modern man seeking both style and comfort in the warmest days.

ECO-FRIENDLY COMMITMENT

Cuoio di Toscana embodies Italian leather craftsmanship excellence. For over 40 years, this consortium has combined tradition, innovation, and sustainability. The brand stands out for the superior quality of its materials and its enduring commitment to responsible production practices continually shaping the future of made-in-Italy leather.

WHO’S FOOTING THE BILL?

Sneakers are now caught in the crossfire of the tariff war. What’s next for the industry?

di Marco Rizzi

Just over two months ago, U.S. President Donald Trump stood in the White House Rose Garden, holding up a chart and declaring the start of what he called “Liberation Day”: a sweeping plan to impose steep tariffs on imports from nearly every major trade partner. Footwear, predictably, is one of the sectors hit hardest. While many brands have American headquarters and capital, much of their production is based in Asia especially China, the main target of these new trade barriers. In retaliation, the Chinese government slapped a massive 125% tariff on U.S.-bound goods and introduced strict limitations on rare earth elements vital to electronics manufacturing. Trump’s counterpunch? Raising export tariffs to as high as 145%. These escalating tensions triggered an immediate response from the footwear industry, with some companies seeing stock values drop by as much as 11%. This prompted the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA a trade group representing top brands, manufacturers, and distributors to formally petition the President for a tariff exemption. Their letter, signed by 76 companies, includes heavyweights like Nike, adidas, Puma, Under Armour, as well as conglomerates like VF Corp (Timberland, Vans), Capri Holdings

(Versace, Jimmy Choo), and Deckers (UGG, Teva, Hoka). So what now? Whatever strategies brands adopt to weather this storm—whether relocating production, cutting costs, or reshaping supply chains will eventually trickle down to consumers. The U.S. market is likely to be the first to show clear signs of this impact, giving us a preview of what could hit Europe next. As reported by outlets like Complex, Nike has already informed retail partners that starting June 1 (the beginning of their new fiscal year), certain products will see a price increase on the suggested retail price. The hikes won’t apply to children’s items, select apparel, or sneakers under $115 but anything above that threshold will face proportional markups. ASICS is reportedly planning similar adjustments for its lifestyle range, expected to roll out in early 2026 with the spring-summer collection. For now, none of the major footwear brands have launched consumer-facing communications around these changes unlike companies like Mattel or Walmart perhaps to avoid provoking backlash from the Trump administration and to keep negotiations open. Still, in an age of deeply interconnected economies, one thing is clear: tariff decisions create ripple effects far beyond the borders of any one country. And sooner or later, we’ll all be feeling the impact.

KITH EXPANDS ITS U.S. FOOTPRINT

May was a milestone month for Ronnie Fieg. The founder and creative director of KITH oversaw the launch of a new collaboration with New Balance and led the reopening of the brand’s iconic Lafayette Street flagship in Manhattan the very first KITH retail space. Alongside this symbolic “homecoming,” the brand continues to grow across the U.S. Rumors suggest Fieg is now recruiting staff for two upcoming locations in Chicago and Dallas. KITH already operates seven stores in New York City, plus additional locations in Los Angeles, Miami, and Honolulu, as well as international stores in Tokyo, Paris, and London.

STAPLE RETURNS TO 21 MERCER

Over the past three decades, Jeff Staple has played a vital role in shaping street culture as we know it through his work as a designer, consultant, and founder of the influential Staple brand. Now, he’s back with his first flagship store in nearly a decade, located at 21 Mercer Street in Manhattan the former site of Nike’s legendary boutique, which closed in early 2023. This marks a full-circle moment for Staple, whose previous space, Reed Space, became a Lower East Side institution before closing in 2016. The move to Mercer Street links two iconic retail addresses in New York’s sneaker history.

PUMA APPOINTS NEW CEO

After 14 years at Puma, CEO Arne Freundt is stepping down following strategic disagreements about the company’s future direction. The German sportswear giant has announced that Matthias Baumer will take over as CEO starting June 1. Baumer, who will remain in Herzogenaurach, joins Puma after a long tenure at rival brand adidas, where he led divisions like Originals, YEEZY, and Y-3, most recently serving as Head of Global Sales and a member of the executive board.

NIKE REINVENTS THE SNKRS APP

Launched ten years ago, the SNKRS App has evolved from a sleek platform for Nike’s most exclusive drops into a global hub for direct-to-consumer launches. In recent years, it’s gained notoriety for its intense, lottery-style release system frustrating many but also becoming a cultural phenomenon. Now, Nike is rolling out a new feature in the U.S. called SNKRS Link: a system that gives early, exclusive access to select communities of collectors and enthusiasts before products go live worldwide. The goal? A more transparent, merit-based approach to sneaker releases.

SALEHE BEMBURY ANNOUNCES BOOK PROJECT

Salehe Bembury has been one of the defining figures in the sneaker world over the past decade. From his early days with Kanye West’s YEEZY line to headline-making designs for Versace, New Balance, Crocs, Vans, and most recently Puma, Bembury has carved out a singular path. Now, he’s telling that story in print. Titled “Salehe – I Make Shoes,” the book will be published by Rizzoli this fall. Pre-orders are already open in the U.S., while European availability is expected later this year.

ADIDAS AND 100 THIEVES: WHERE GAMING MEETS ROBOTICS

In recent years, adidas has shown a sharp instinct for tapping into new spaces, teaming up with unexpected partners, fresh faces, and crucially new audiences. The brand’s latest drop with 100 Thieves, the LA-based label that runs a hugely successful lifestyle line and one of the world’s most iconic e-sports teams, is a case in point. Together, they’ve created a collection that includes apparel and two debut sneakers: the Palos Hills, a terrace-style model with a classic silhouette, and the Savage, a futuristic trail runner with a single-piece upper and reflective elements that give it a robotic edge.

PACKER AND TIMBERLAND: AN AMERICAN CLASSIC

It was only a matter of time before Packer and Timberland linked up for a project. The legendary New Jersey retailer open for nearly 120 years got the chance to rework Timberland’s iconic 3-Eye Lug shoe in an exclusive colorway. For this collaboration, Packer’s design team, led for the last time by Victor Kan, looked to classic Americana for inspiration: vintage tones, menswear cues, and aesthetic nods to both the American West and Native heritage. This limited-edition release is available only through Packer’s Teaneck store and online at packershoes.com.

SPENCER BADU PUTS HIS MARK ON A HOKA ELEVON

SAUCONY UNVEILS ITS NEW SILO LINE

After a low-key preview at Paris Fashion Week, Saucony has officially launched Silo a highend capsule reimagining both heritage and modern silhouettes. Curated by Paul Ruffles, the mind behind Merrell’s 1TRL line, the project spans five limited-edition models across 17 releases: two Endorphin Elite 2 S, three Kinvara 1 S, four Gripper S, four 586I S, and four Grid X Ultra S. The Silo collection marks a sharp shift in tone from Saucony’s usual lifestyle collabs, offering clean, often monochromatic palettes and inventive pairings of classic and technical materials. Whether Silo will return seasonally or annually remains to be seen, but it’s a compelling addition to an already strong catalog.

Hoka continues expanding its impressive collaborator roster by partnering with Spencer Badu, a Ghanaian-Canadian designer and founder of the namesake label. The chosen silhouette is the Elevon X, a high-performance runner reimagined in a bold two-tone: black on the sole and midsole, with bright yellow on the upper. Cultural storytelling is key here Badu’s design includes symbolic details like cowrie shell charms and two Adinkra symbols: Fawohodie, representing freedom and personal growth, and Nyame Dua, the “Tree of God,” symbolizing spiritual protection.

MAHARISHI AND MIZUNO: HI-TECH TRAIL HERITAGE

Mizuno is back with another team-up with legendary British brand Maharishi. After reworking the Wave Rider 10, the two now present a bold take on the Wave Mujin LS GTX, seamlessly blending their respective design codes. Founded in 1994 by Hardy Blechman, Maharishi is known for merging Eastern and Western influences through intricate embroidery and military heritage. This version of the Mujin continues that theme: built with a waterproof GORE-TEX upper and a Vibram sole, it features a military green and orange colorway reminiscent of old-school bomber jackets, and a pixelated camo pattern inspired by Canadian Armed Forces uniforms. Available now at select global retailers.

ENGINEERED GARMENTS AND KEEN DEBUT UNLIKELY PAIRING

Founded by Daiki Suzuki in 1999, Engineered Garments has long fused American workwear with Japanese tailoring and precision well before it was cool. Though no stranger to sneaker collaborations (see: Hoka, New Balance, Superga), the label now adds Keen to its list of partners. The silhouette at the center of this unexpected project is the WK500, a longtime staple in Keen’s outdoor catalog, reimagined here in all black and detailed with Western-inspired embroidery, stitching, and toe bugs reminiscent of cowboy boots. A mash-up of design cues that shouldn’t work but absolutely does.

VANS LETS JJJJOUND REIMAGINE THE HALF CAB

It’s been nearly two decades since JJJJound first appeared online as a digital moodboard exploring the intersections of pop culture, architecture, art, and design. Today, Justin R. Saunders’ Canadian project has become one of the most influential aesthetics in fashion, drawing the attention of brands eager to tap into its understated, refined visual language. Vans is the latest to align with JJJJound, granting the Montreal label creative license to rework one of its most iconic silhouettes the Half Cab. Stripped of its signature padding and redesigned with a lightweight nylon tongue, the sneaker takes on a more minimal, refined shape. Released in two colorways black and brown, each with contrasting soles, laces, and tongues the collab sold out online almost instantly. It’s still unclear whether a wider in-store release will follow.

NEW BALANCE AND MIU MIU TAP COCO GAUFF

Despite some initial skepticism, the New Balance x Miu Miu partnership has proven to be a runaway success thanks in no small part to the launch of the 530SL. This premium reinterpretation of the classic runner, designed with a flat sole and upscale materials for Miuccia Prada’s brand, now returns in new colorways with tennis superstar Coco Gauff as the face of the campaign. The shoes and apparel will drop on September 10, with possible surprise additions rolling out over the summer.

SALOMON AND MARGIELA: THE COLLAB CONTINUES

Following their double drop in 2024, Salomon and MM6 Maison Margiela’s footwear division team up once again. First up is the XT-4 Mule, returning in a new colorway that mixes navy blue and burgundy accents, a fresh twist on last year’s release. Making its debut is the Spectur 2, offered in a sleek allblack execution, this time staying true to the original design without the usual MM6 reinterpretations. Both pairs are now available at select boutiques and Margiela flagships.

ASICS AND A.P.C. DELIVER TENNIS-READY COLLAB

ASICS and French label A.P.C. have reunited for a dual-release capsule. The lifestyle component features two clean colorways of the GEL-Kayano 14 one of the standout models from ASICS’ Y2K revival done in crisp white and deep navy, with gum soles and subtle branding. The second part of the collab shifts into performance mode with a tennis-ready line of footwear and apparel, recently spotted on ASICS-sponsored players, including Jasmine Paolini during her impressive doubles win at the Italian Open.

SNEAKERS: EVOLUTION OR TRADITION?

As the market slows, it’s time to rethink how to meet the demands of a new generation

di Marco Rizzi

After a decade of overexposure, the sneaker frenzy is showing signs of fatigue. Some are even calling it a full-blown crisis economically, creatively, and culturally. It’s clear the numbers aren’t what they used to be during the pre-pandemic boom, when instant sell-outs and new pop icons were the norm. As a result, brands are being forced to reassess their strategies. But is this the moment for the industry to shift focus toward different products, or is it time to double down and return to the roots fewer hype drops, more true believers? To get a clearer picture, we spoke with some of Italy’s most influential sneaker retailers those who’ve helped shape the scene and are still leading voices in the conversation.

Daniele Valente, owner – Sneakers 76, Taranto Calling it a crisis might be an oversimplification. To me, it feels more like a moment of deep transition. Yes, we’re seeing a slowdown but not necessarily in a bad way. It’s as if the industry is pausing to find a new balance. Gen Z is playing a key role in this shift: their approach to consumption is more fluid, less brand-loyal, and deeply conscious of values and company ethics. Often, they’re more drawn to authenticity than manufactured hype. That’s completely overturned the old playbook. As retailers, we have to adapt. So yes, there’s space to explore new directions but there’s also never been a better time to reconnect with the core of sneaker culture: passion, storytelling, and most importantly, community, especially at a local level. This isn’t a moment to retreat, it’s a moment to evolve. With strong roots in the past and a sharp eye on who’s shaping what comes next.

Gian Paolo Giuliani, store manager – Special, Milan

We’re in the midst of a broader social and economic crisis, and naturally, it’s impacting our world too. When it comes to sneakers, a lot of today’s anxiety is amplified by the contrast with the industry’s record-breaking highs. We’re on the downward slope now, but it’s important to look at the entire arc to really understand the moment. Personally, I don’t think this is the time for a radical overhaul but rather a time to fine-tune and improve, starting with more curated product choices. It’s about revisiting the classics, going back to the roots of sneaker culture, and bringing storytelling to the forefront again. For those of us who’ve always worked this way, it’s a path worth continuing. It might be challenging at first, but in the long run, it’s a sustainable approach. Of course, reading trends and market shifts is still crucial but that doesn’t mean chasing every fleeting wave. What matters now is making smarter, more conscious decisions about where to place your bets.

Marco Evangelisti, owner – Bottega Back Door, Bologna

From my perspective, it’s not about choosing between evolution or tradition we need both. It’s not so much about finding the “next big thing,” but rather recognizing that the missteps of certain legacy brands have created space for new players to rise and carve out meaningful market share. That’s a good thing. At the same time, the decline in hype something that started in late 2023 has given long-time fans and newer sneakerheads alike a chance to enjoy the store for what it truly is: a space, not just a container. A place where products stay on the shelves long enough to be discovered, appreciated, and bought not just flipped. We’re going back to a time when buying a sneaker was also about sharing time, stories, and passion in the store itself. A shift away from the high-speed resell culture that exploded post-Covid. And honestly, that feels like a breath of fresh air.

Feliciano López