Where Los Angeles, November 2016

NOVEMBER 2016 SOCALPULSE.COM

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MIX IT UP AT NOVEL NIGHTSPOTS RAISE A GLASS TO HOT NEW BARS SAY CIAO TO ITALIAN CUISINE

L.A. AFTER DARK BURLESQUE QUEEN DITA VON TEESE GOES FOR THE GLAMOUR

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“I have always had a passion for the beautiful.

If the man in me is often a pessimist, the artist, on the contrary, is pre-eminently an optimist” -Jules Breton

G A L E R I E

M I C H A E L

19th CENTURY PAINTINGS on display starting November 12, 2016

JULES BRETON, 1827-1906 Fillette mangeant des cerises Jules Breton’s artworks can be found in museum collections including the Musée d’Orsay, The Metropolitan Museum, & The Art Institute of Chicago.

224 NORTH RODEO DRIVE | BEVERLY HILLS, CA 90210 Monday-Friday 10-7 | Sunday 11-5 | 310 273 3377 www.galeriemichael.com | art@galeriemichael.com Over 40 original paintings on display

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where los angeles

11.16

CONTENTS

THE NIGHTLIFE ISSUE

departments

the guide

6 Editor’s Note

52 DINING Notable restaurants by cuisine

Last dance.

8 Hot Dates AFI Fest spotlights A-listers’ new films, while outdoor ice rinks, Chill at the Queen Mary and L.A. Zoo Lights usher in the holidays.

74 ENTERTAINMENT Special events, performing arts and sports 75 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Theme parks, activities, studio tours, exhibitions and more

88 30 Things We Love We’re thankful for the beauty and the bounty of the season.

78 SHOPPING The county’s major retail destinations

where now New bars across L.A. offer fun spins on nightlife—from breakfast-for-dinner cocktails at Venice’s Nighthawk to exotic concoctions at Clifton’s Tiki bar, the Pacific Seas.

78 NIGHTLIFE Buzzy bars and cool clubs for a fun night out

19

A bar at Highland Park Bowl

80 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

CITY TOURS

11 Dining A pair of N.Y. imports make a splash in West Hollywood: Seafood restaurant Catch LA is already drawing celebrity crowds, while Serafina Sunset is serving up top-notch thin-crust pizzas and homemade pasta.

14

Paccheri at Sotto

12 Q+A Burlesque queen Dita Von Teese talks Old Hollywood glamour and shopping in Los Angeles.

20 24 28 32 36 40 44 46

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14 Angeleno-Italiano ON THE COVER Burlesque dancer, glamour girl and entrepreneur Dita Von Teese. Photo by Ali Mahdavi. See p. 12.

To Topanga Canyon

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Food fads come and go, but Italian cuisine is perennially popular. Say ciao to L.A.’s top trattorias, osterias and ristorantes. BY ROGER GRODY

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18 After Sunset Craving something new in nightlife beyond the typical bar scene?

Try one of these offbeat nighttime activities, like getting a midnight massage or catching a $5 comedy show. BY REBECCA PARDESS

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Knott’s Berry Farm

SoCalPulse.com Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California editors online and on your smartphone.

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FROM TOP: DANIELLE BERNABE; MARY COSTA PHOTOGRAPHY

10 Nightlife

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OSKA 9693 Wilshire Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90212 310 271 2806 OSKA 13 Douglas Alley Pasadena, CA 91103 626 432 1729 Shop online beverlyhills.oska.com

Beverly Hills / Chicago / Edina / Healdsburg / Mill Valley / New York / Pasadena / Seattle / Calgary / Vancouver Sydney / London / Paris / Munich / Amsterdam / Stockholm

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where M AG A Z INE

PUBLISHER EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Suzanne Ennis

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Heidi Schwindt ASSOCIATE EDITOR Gillian Glover CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Vicki Arkoff, James Bartlett, Rebecca Pardess, Heather Platt CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Angela DeCenzo, Daniel Ennis, Matt Hartman, Dave Lauridsen, Lisa Romerein, Edwin Santiago SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jessica Levin Poff

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Heather Heintz, Julie Hoffman, Heather Price, Crystal Sierra BUSINESS MANAGER

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CIRCULATION / SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

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PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng WEB EDITOR Christina Xenos MARKETING MANAGER Anna Ciric ADMINISTRATION

Amina Karwa, Lisa Kelley, Laura Okey VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 HONORARY PRESIDENT

Ted Levy

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LAST DANCE

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DISCOVER THE BEAT OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

I can barely remember the last time I went out dancing.

Occasionally I go to nightclub openings, where I toe-tap and mingle (and from which I usually make my escape by midnight), but it’s been ages since I got gussied up, hit the town and danced until the houselights flipped on at 2 a.m. Man, that was fun.

But during the last few years, my idea of a great night out inexplicably shifted.

# L ove S o C a l

WHERE TO EAT • WHERE TO SHOP • WHERE TO GO

F I N D U S AT S OC A L P U L S E . CO M

L O S A N G E L E S • O R A N G E CO U N T Y • S A N D I E G O

Give me a classic Manhattan in a sophisticated spot where I can hold a conversation—maybe add gourmet nibbles and candles, a fire pit or twinkling lights for ambiance—and I am in heaven.

DANIEL ENNIS

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up.

From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all!

Now, give me a classic Manhattan in a sophisticated spot where I can hold a conversation—maybe add gourmet nibbles and candles, a fire pit or twinkling lights for ambiance—and I am in heaven. (You, too? Try sitting poolside at Viviane at the Avalon Hotel or on the patio at Terrine on Beverly.) I felt a kinship with Dita Von Teese when I learned that we share a preference for elegant venues, which you can read about in Vicki Arkoff’s interview with the classy cover girl (p. 12).

The fact is, regardless of your appetite for dance and drink and the Hollywood ”scene,” L.A. has plenty of great places to hang out after the sun goes down. In addition to clubs and bars, there are hip bowling alleys, artsy parties, late-night diners, comedy shows, retro bar games and 24/7 spas, all of which writer Rebecca Pardess spotlights in her feature “After Sunset” (p. 18). You can find even more events and venues in our listings (p. 74) and Hot Dates (p. 8).

As we put this nightlife-themed issue together, and I was reminded of all of the opportunities for fun at my fingertips, I felt that party girl inside of me perking up. I might prefer conversation (and Manhattans) these days, but I’m loath to let the last time I went out dancing to have been the last time.

Fortunately, although I’m a little older now, the night is still young. —SUZANNE ENNIS

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Getty V

THE O R I G I NAL H YBR I D No doubt, hybrid cars are the vehicles of choice in Los Angeles for their efficiency. At the Getty Villa you can see antiquity’s version of a hybrid, half bird, half cat. This feline mix can prey faster than a regular cat and gets unlimited miles to the gallon. Come visit this winged wonder and the more than 1,200 antiquities on display.

DANIEL ENNIS

The Getty Villa. One mile north of Sunset on PCH. Reserve your free ticket today.

Admission is free. An advance timed-entry ticket is required.

Winged Feline, Tartessian, 700–575 B.C. Bronze. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Text and Design © 2016 J. Paul Getty Trust

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getty.edu

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WHERE CALENDAR NOVEMBER 2016 Top Stops

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN ARTS & CULTURE

NOV. 1-27 ORIGIN OF LOVE Darren Criss stars in Hedwig and the Angry Inch, having its L.A. premiere at Hollywood Pantages Theatre. p. 74

NOV. 10-17 NOW SHOWING ...

HOT DATES

This year marks the 30th edition of the American Film Institute’s annual AFI Fest—L.A.’s longest-running international film festival. A-listers turn out for red-carpet galas, while the public piles into Hollywood theaters for free screenings of highly anticipated new films. The fest starts off strong with the world premiere of Rules Don’t Apply—written, directed, produced by and starring AFI Life Achievement Award recipient and Oscar winner Warren Beatty—at the TCL Chinese Theatre. (Lily Collins, pictured above, co-stars.) p. 74

7 HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Go to SoCalPulse.com for the Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performingarts events, dining promotions and more.

FAIRS, FESTS AND MORE FUN EVENTS

4 TORUK—THE FIRST FLIGHT > NOV. 11-13

This Cirque du Soleil show brings the imaginative world of James Cameron’s Avatar to life at Staples Center (pictured at left). p. 74

1 WESTEDGE DESIGN FAIR > NOV. 3-6 Get home-decor inspiration during this event, when 150 top design brands, including Missoni Home and Roche Bobois, showcase their latest products at Santa Monica’s Barker Hangar. p. 74

5 LOS ANGELES AUTO SHOW > NOV. 18-27

Head to the L.A. Convention Center to see what’s new in the world of wheels, ogle some 1,000 cars and take a test drive. p. 74

2 L.A. COMEDY FEST > NOV. 10-20 Tickle your funny bone at this showcase, which offers a lineup of film screenings and live comedy at the Let Live Theatre. p. 74

6 L.A. ZOO LIGHTS > OPENING NOV. 18 The animal kingdom welcomes the holidays during this family-friendly event. See the zoo decked out in dazzling lights, and meet real reindeer. p. 76

3 HOLIDAY ICE RINK > OPENING NOV. 10 It’s that time of year when outdoor ice-skating rinks start popping up all across the city. This entry in Pershing Square is as close to a snowy, East Coast Christmas as you’ll get in L.A. p. 74

7 CHILL AT THE QUEEN MARY > OPENING NOV. 23 The Long Beach ocean liner creates a winter wonderland, complete with ice skating, ice tubing and a new Alice in Wonderland-themed immersive experience. p. 74

NOV. 5-27 RAISE A GLASS L.A. Opera performs Philip Glass’ Akhnaten at Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. p. 75 OPENING NOV. 5 CREATURE COMFORT At the Broad’s Creature installation, see depictions of figuration such as Thomas Houseago’s 2011 bronze Giant Figure (Cyclops), pictured below. p. 77 NOV. 15 LAUGH OUT LOUD David Sedaris brings his anecdotes to the Pasadena Civic Auditorium. visitpasadena.com NOV. 17-18, 20 KNOW THE SCORE The L.A. Phil sets classics Rebel Without a Cause, On the Waterfront and Casablanca to live scores at Disney Concert Hall. p. 75 THROUGH NOV. 27 MONSTER HOUSE LACMA’s Guillermo del Toro: At Home With Monsters reveals the creative process behind the director’s films. p. 78

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: FRANCOIS DUHAMEL/TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX; © THOMAS HOUSEAGO, COURTESY THE ARTIST AND GAGOSIAN GALLERY; PHOTO: ERRISSON LAWRENCE, COSTUMES: KYM BARRETT, © 2015 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL

Search the full calendar at SoCalPulse.com

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The best in nightlife and dining

nightlife

Good Spirits New L.A. nightlife spots serve up a double shot of fun. —Gillian Glover Little Tokyo’s Baldoria, from Mozza sommelier David King, offers pre-bottled cocktails, gourmet grub and a laissez-faire attitude. Guest bartenders whip up limited-edition batches of signature drinks, which are then nitrogendosed for freshness and poured on the rocks.

243 S. San Pedro St., downtown, 213.947.3329 Restaurateur Jeremy Fall’s Nighthawk: Breakfast Bar serves elevated breakfast fare (e.g., a candied-bacon breakfast burger and “Benedict” fries) in a dark, moody-yet-fun space. Cocktails like Froot Loops-flavored spiked cereal milk and boozy floats bring out the kid in you. 417 Washington Blvd., Venice, 323.507.2301 Since reopening last year, the historic Clifton’s cafeteria has been rolling out new elements. The latest is The Pacific Seas, a Tiki bar accessible via a hidden staircase.

Step inside to enjoy an

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island-getaway vibe, Polynesian cuisine and classic Tiki cocktails served from behind a mahogany boat deck.

648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673 Perhaps the hottest spot in town right now, Salazar—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails like the rum-based joven y alocada, served in a fresh coconut. 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla.com Located on the former site of the historic La Grande Station, classy Westbound draws from its railway heritage, as evident in its railcar-style booths. Get cozy and enjoy cocktails like the Santa Fe De Luxe, pictured here, and elegant bar bites (e.g., fried pork rillette with mustardseed aioli, masago, tarragon and pickled vegetables). 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite N, downtown, 213.262.9291

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The rustic yet glamorous, indooroutdoor dining area at Catch LA

DINING

OPPOSITE: COURTESY WESTBOUND. FROM TOP: KATIE GIBBS, COURTESY CATCH LA; COURTESY SERAFINA

FRESH CATCH Following years of anticipation, Catch LA has opened its doors—and retracted its roof—in the West Hollywood Design District. The fourth such concept from Eugene Remm and Mark Birnbaum of New York hospitality company EMM Group, the 12,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor hot spot boasts a 340-seat alfresco dining area where guests can enjoy views of L.A. and the Hollywood Hills while sipping cocktails and dining from a seafood-centric, internationally influenced menu. Catch classics include truffle sashimi, lobster mac and cheese and “Hit Me” chocolate cake, which are paired here with West Coast-influenced dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients. Vegan and gluten-free options are available as well. With plenty of space for mingling (or canoodling), the venue is already reeling in an A-list crowd. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8715 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.347.6060, catchrestaurants.com

Pizza your dreams While friends Vittorio Assaf and Fabio Granato were stranded at sea together more than 20 years ago, they fantasized about creating the perfect pizza—and promised each other that if they survived, they’d start a restaurant where they would serve it.

Today, Assaf and Granato are celebrating the open-

ing of Serafina Sunset, the latest of more than 20 restaurants built on that promise. Like its counterparts around the globe, West Hollywood’s new Serafina serves up light Italian fare and a see-andbe-seen scene (the New York locations are prime for celeb-spotting). It also has a patio warmed by

a fire pit and a secondfloor dining space with its own balcony. And those dreamy pizzas? They’re light, crispy and topped with ingredients like fresh arugula and imported Italian burrata and porcini mushrooms. L, D (daily).

8768 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.9130, serafinarestaurant.com

Focaccia ligure at Serafina Sunset

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angeles What is it about the Golden Age of Hollywood that fascinated you so much, so young?

When I was a little girl, my first experience seeing pretty ladies was on TV, watching old movies with my mother. It lit a fire. I grew up with an obsession for this made-up, glamorous look that is about a silhouette and the ultra-feminization of a woman: red lips, nails, high heels and stockings. ... I’m a natural blonde from a farming town in Michigan, so, clearly, I became something other than that by choice.

Where are you able to still find that kind of glamour in L.A.?

The most glamorous place in town is the Chateau Marmont.

Everyone likes to go outside to smoke and people-watch, but I’m talking about indoors, inside the hotel’s beautiful, art deco lobby bar. The lighting is sexy, and there’s nowhere else that I’ve been that has that true essence of Hollywood glamour.

Q+A

QUEEN OF THE NIGHT It’s only natural to think of the world’s top burlesque queen, Dita Von Teese, as someone who comes out just at night. But between nightclub performances, there are Dita Von Teese lingerie, stockings, eyeglasses and gloves to design, books to write and fragrances (such as Erotique) to create. One day she’s autographing copies of her book Your Beauty Mark at Stan Lee’s Comikaze Expo, and the next she’s jetting to Paris to headline at Crazy Horse or preparing to tour the U.S. with her new striptease spectacle, “The Art of the Teese,” kicking off Feb. 1. Plus, there is no one more passionate about seeking out classic Hollywood glamour than this former Midwestern farm girl who knows where it can still be found … besides in the reflection of her dressing-table mirror. —Vicki Arkoff

Where else do you go for cocktails with a sidecar of nostalgia?

You can’t go wrong with Musso & Frank, of course, for the best martini in the city. I also really love Clifton’s, which recently reopened. ... Then there are places that I really love, though they aren’t the coolest, like the Tam O’Shanter. It’s an old Tudorstyle restaurant and bar. It’s a time capsule, as is my house.

What are your top local sources for vintage gowns and baubles?

I love the stores The Way We Wore and Golyester, and I love going to the flea markets—the Rose Bowl, Long Beach and all those mega antique markets—

but the Santa Monica Airport Antique Market is my favorite.

What are L.A.’s best burlesque and cabaret venues?

There’s a lot of faux-lesque in this city, places with shakedown dancers on tabletops, which is a bit stale. ... I look for something more sophisticated. No Vacancy is nice for a bar-club kind of experience in a beautiful Victorian house, but my favorite venue for my show is the Avalon. It has everything that you want from an old, historic theater, but it also has a club vibe.

You design your own line of satin and lace lingerie. Where are the best lingerie shops?

My last favorite lingerie store closed recently, so now Bloomingdale’s lingerie department is the place to [shop].

I usually go to the one in the Glendale Galleria or Century City.

My brand can be found there, alongside a lot of others.

Where do you go to treat yourself?

I really love the Korean spa experience. I’m a big fan of the Wi Spa and the Grand Spa. They’re not fancy, but I love them more than classic Beverly Hills spas because they’re open 24 hours. When I want to treat myself to the best meal ever, I go to Sushi Sasabune in Glendale.

Are there any places left in L.A. fancy enough for ladies to step out on the town wearing Dita Von Teese elbow-length gloves?

I love being overdressed. It makes everyone feel like they need to step up their game! Dress to kill and walk into Musso & Frank’s.

You’ll look like you own the place.

THE DETAILS Avalon Hollywood p. 78 / Bloomingdale’s Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.772.2100 / Chateau Marmont 8221 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.656.1010 / Clifton’s p. 52 / Golyester 450 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.1339 / Grand Spa 2999 W. 6th St., L.A., 213.380.8889 / Long Beach Antique Market 4901 E. Conant St., Long Beach, 323.655.5703 / Musso & Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 / No Vacancy p. 79 / Rose Bowl Flea Market 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena, 323.560.7469 / Santa Monica Airport Outdoor Antique & Collectible Market 3050 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 323.933.2511 / Sushi Sasabune 101 N. Brand Blvd., Suite 220, Glendale, 818.696.1124 / Tam O’Shanter Inn 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., L.A., 323.664.0228 / The Way We Wore 334 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.937.0878 / Wi Spa 2700 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.487.2700

ALBERT SANCHEZ + PEDRO ZALBA

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ANGELENO -

HOT CUISINES COME AND GO IN L.A., BUT THE CITY’S LOVE OF ITALIAN COOKING NEVER WAVERS.

In America, few cuisines are as embraced as Italian. Whether rustic peasant cooking or refined alta cucina, bathed in marinara or blanketed in shaved white truffles, Italian cuisine is as enduringly popular in Los Angeles as it is in Brooklyn or St. Louis.

The Italians Alimento

1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.928.2888

Bestia

2121 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724

The Factory Kitchen 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000

Gusto

8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778

Jon & Vinny’s

412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369

Officine Brera 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006

Sotto

9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210

Union

37 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.795.5841

ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN L.A. ARE as varied as Italian cuisine itself, which is in fact a collection of diverse regional cuisines. Some of the chefs contributing to the current renaissance celebrate their personal Italian heritage, while others are native Angelenos adopting the country’s traditions as their own. A few brash chefs take excessive liberties with authenticity, but in a city known for its Korean tacos and masala-spiced chicken wings, experimentation is hardly discouraged.

In 2012, chef Ori Menashe and restaurateur Bill Chait pioneered the Arts District dining scene with the opening of Bestia, which remains one of the toughest reservations in L.A. Taking over a long-vacated warehouse, the industrialchic restaurant is warmed by exposed brick and distressed wood, while a copper-topped bar and chandeliers crafted from vintage meat hooks retain a sense of history in the cavernous, boisterous space.

Menashe—born in L.A., raised in Israel and a protégé of acclaimed chef Gino Angelini—doesn’t feel confined by rigid doctrine from the Old Country. Slathered on slices of rustic, house-baked bread are veal tartare or a chunky, balsamic-vinegar-infused smoked chicken-liver spread, both representing the bold, in-your-face flavors for which Menashe is beloved.

Further exemplifying Menashe’s assertive style are pan-seared chicken gizzards with roasted beets in a sherrymustard vinaigrette. Hand-cut saffronscented tagliatelle is coated with a hearty

pork ragù, while sea urchin is tossed with spaghetti and finished with bottarga (pressed tuna roe) and Thai basil. Genevieve Gergis, Menashe’s wife and one of the best pastry chefs in town, offers a seasonal fruit crostata, a bittersweet chocolate tart and maple-ricotta fritters.

Closely following Bestia into the Arts District was The Factory Kitchen, a venture of veteran restaurateur Matteo Ferdinandi and former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana. An addictive flatbread called focaccina di Recco precedes fresh pastas infused with herbs and bathed in rustic ragùs. Earlier this year, the same team doubled down on the neighborhood with Officine Brera, housed in a 1920s-era structure on the other side of the Factory Kitchen. Despite a distinctly modern interior of reclaimed wood, exposed steel beams and worn brick, the concept draws inspiration from Milan’s medieval Brera District. A soaring ceiling gives the space enormous volume, but the focal point of the dining room is an elaborate exhibition kitchen ensconced behind a 35-foot-long span of glass.

Officine Brera showcases classic recipes of cucina povera, the peasant cooking of the Tuscan countryside along the Po river. Shareable starters include frisceu, fluffy sage-perfumed fritters, and a lightly dressed salad of mâche sprinkled with pink peppercorns and presented beneath a translucent sheet of lardo. Gnocchi are bathed in a fonduta of Castelmagno cheese, and an optional shaving of black truffles transforms this

Sotto’s woodfired Neapolitan pizzas. Left: Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis

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O -ITALIANO

by ROGER GRODY

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The Classics Some venerable Italian restaurants continue to inspire L.A. diners and young chefs. Here are some of the best:

Officine Brera’s manzo all’olio.

Below: Valentino’s seafood pasta

Angelini Osteria »

Drago Centro » Chef Celestino Drago and his brothers operate a collection of restaurants in L.A., but this downtown establishment offers the most sophisticated setting and ambitious cuisine. 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 Osteria Mozza » From local legend Nancy Silverton and celebrity chef Mario Batali, this is a serious dining room in which to enjoy creative Italian cuisine.

6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100

Pizzeria Mozza »

Much more than a pizzeria, this casual side of the Mozza complex incorporates superb ingredients into a full menu and offers an all-Italian wine list. 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi » A

celebrity favorite, this Amalfi Coast-reminiscent eatery specializes in fresh seafood and a romantic vibe. 114 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.573.1660

Valentino » When it

opened in 1972, this finedining landmark was awash in red sauce and checkered tablecloths.

But restaurateur Piero Selvaggio gradually introduced Angelenos to a more refined, upscale Italian cuisine.

3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313

peasant cooking into pure luxury. From the kitchen’s “line of fire”—consisting of a wood-burning grill, oven and rotisserie—comes a massive wood-roasted pork shank presented vertically in dramatic fashion.

Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo are two of the hottest chefs on the L.A. dining scene, parlaying their success at Animal and Son of a Gun into a successful partnership with Ludo Lefebvre at Trois Mec, Petit Trois and Trois Familia. The native Floridians’ all-day spot Jon & Vinny’s is a contemporary, irreverent interpretation of an old-school Italian joint, set in a trendily refurbished pizzeria. The young chefs’ own pizza is among the best in L.A., noted for a thin crust with charred, blistered edges. Options range from traditional Margherita to the artsy Flower Child with California-made Crescenza cheese and nasturtium petals. Traditionally themed pastas are made fresh in-house, and a wine store in the rear ensures a list that few pizzerias can rival.

Chef Victor Casanova was the chef at Beverly Hills’ swanky, celebrity-teeming Four Seasons Hotel, but the Bronx native yearned for a more intimate and personal expression of his craft. The result is Gusto, an often overlooked collection of white-linen-topped tables where guests begin with soulful pork meatballs plated with chilled whipped ricotta and hearty tomato sauce,

or harissa-spiked grilled octopus. Pastas include classic bucatini carbonara or tiny agnolotti, made fresh on-site, with ricotta and English peas, dappled with lemonbutter sauce.

Native Angeleno Zach Pollack got so hooked on Italian cuisine when studying abroad in Italy that his pending architectural degree was swapped out for a cooking career. He, kindred spirit Steve Samson (who dropped out of a medical program to cook) and Steve’s wife, Dina, opened Sotto five years ago, and it remains one of the city’s favorite Italian destinations. After wood-roasted cauliflower and pork meatballs, most Sotto guests delve into some of the best thin-crusted pizzas in town or opt for a deftly crafted risotto with porcini mushrooms and quality Parmigiano-Reggiano.

After his success at Sotto, Pollack went solo at Silver Lake’s Alimento, a cramped, casual space where Carrara marble counters are juxtaposed against plywood and banquettes repurposed from salvaged church pews. Taking center stage are the chef’s housemade pastas, such as spelt maccheroncini with wild mushrooms, cavolo nero and egg.

A must-order item is Pollack’s “al contrario” take on tortellini en brodo, a dish usually consisting of pasta dumplings swimming in broth. Here the hot liquid is trapped inside the soft pasta shells—they explode in your mouth like some Chinese dumplings—which are plated over a creamy sauce enriched with wild mushrooms and prosciutto. A light but satisfying dessert is the almond polenta cake with macerated berries and whipped cream.

Chef Bruce Kalman has a reputation for innovation, but at his intimate Pasadena restaurant, Union, it is his respect for tradition that tends to impress diners the most. Standout dishes include his takes on steamed mussels with guanciale, porchetta and a simple yet seductive plate of spaghetti alla chitarra enhanced with little more than San Marzano tomatoes, garlic and a hint of Fresno chili.

FROM TOP: RYAN TANAKA 2016; RYAN FORBES. PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT: SIERRA PRESCOTT; MARY COSTA PHOTOGRAPHY

Chef Gino Angelini, one of the city’s great Italian masters, shows off some soulful dishes at his intimate restaurant, including his grandma Elvira’s lasagna. 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070

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AFTER

SUNSET Los Angeles may be known for its trendy clubs, bars and restaurants, but its nightlife scene isn’t only about the hottest spots in town. L.A. is vibrant with fresh and unique nighttime activities—the key is just knowing where to find them. Whether your idea of fun is a midnight massage, an evening painting class or a psychedelic after-hours dance party, why not try something new after the sun sets on the city? By REBECCA PARDESS

DANCE PARTY AT THE MUSIC CENTER WON A NORMAL evening at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, the audience shuffles out of the theater once the curtain falls, and it’s lights out for the night— standard for any world-class cultural venue featuring operas and ballets. But the Music Center is rethinking one of Los Angeles’ most celebrated spaces by offering an afterhours event unlike any other.

On Friday, Nov. 11, experience Sleepless: The Music Center After Hours, where past and future collide to ignite the imagination well after most restaurants and theaters have closed. Between the hours of 11:11 p.m. and 3 a.m., the space

is transformed into a dreamlike world of “ethereal awakenings” with DJ performances, real snowfall illuminated by lighting artist Sohail Najafi, multimedia shadow performances by Miwa Matreyek, chill lounges, live dream interpretations, dancing, video installations and retellings of classic stories by Charles Dickens, Edgar Allan Poe and others. Nestle into an oversized beanbag and see the normally demure Dorothy Chandler Pavilion in a whole new light.

Tickets are $20 online and $30 at the door. Cocktails and snacks are available for purchase.

135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.0711, musiccenter.org

From top: Refurbished lanes at Highland Park Bowl; scenes from Sleepless: The Music Center After Hours at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion

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PINS AND PIZZA AT HIGHLAND PARK BOWL WEARLIER THIS YEAR, L.A.’s oldest operating bowling alley was reborn as one of the city’s most beautiful venues. Open daily until 2 a.m. (21+ after 8 p.m.), Highland Park Bowl offers an unmatched

bowling experience, with revitalized lanes from the 1920s. Recline on leather couches while you wait your turn, and order a Neapolitan pizza off the Italian menu. Or sidle up to one of the two

gorgeously designed bars, lit by chandeliers made of repurposed pinsetters, and try an expertly crafted cocktail. Located in one of L.A.’s most rapidly changing neighborhoods, Highland Park Bowl is off

the beaten tourist path but absolutely worth a visit— it’s a shining example of L.A.’s growing embrace of vintage architecture.

Depending on the day, lane prices vary between $50 and $80 per hour

(a flat fee for a capacity of six bowlers). Happy hour is from 5-8 p.m.

M-F, including $10 for a mini pizza and a beer.

5621 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.257.2695, highlandparkbowl.com

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From top: Vintage arcade and pinball games at Button Mash in Echo Park; Bar Moruno at downtown's Grand Central Market; the Upright Citizens Brigade’s Franklin Avenue theater

Vintage Arcade Games and Garlic Noodles at Button Mash

BIG LAUGHS AT UPRIGHT CITIZENS BRIGADE THEATRE WTHE UPRIGHT CITIZENS Brigade Theatre is at the center of L.A.’s comedy world, offering a rich schedule of stand-up, improv and storytelling shows every night of the week. For between $5 and $10 (purchase your tickets online), you and your group will be in stitches while watching the comedians on UCB Franklin’s

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tiny stage (there’s also a UCB theater and training center on Sunset Boulevard). Founded by comedy legends Amy Poehler, Matt Walsh, Ian Roberts and Matt Besser, the UCB draws talent from across the country.

On a lucky night, greats like Louis C.K. or Aziz Ansari might take the stage unannounced, causing the intimate, 92-seat

theater to erupt in astonishment. The earliest shows begin at 6:30 p.m. and the latest at midnight. Get in line at least half an hour before showtime to snag a seat, and note that parking is tough. Valet costs $7; however, taxis, Lyft and Uber are great alternatives. 5919 Franklin Ave., L.A., 323.908.8702, franklin.ucbtheatre.com

TE

WDOWNTOWN’S GRAND CENTRAL Market opened in 1917 but has just recently become one of Greater L.A.’s best-known destinations for food and culture. As a result of its tremendous growth in the past year, it’s extended its hours to 10 p.m. nightly to cater to the hungry and curious night crowd. With more than 30 vendors offering a variety of cuisines, your night at Grand Central Market can consist of Thai green curry, Spanish paella, Salvadoran pupusas and American barbecue—if you’ve saved enough room, that is. Aside from the remarkable food offerings, the folks at Grand Central Market are constantly cooking up new ways to pull the community under its gigantic roof, with events like Trivia Tuesdays, Drag Queen Bingo and Sunday Night Jazz. Check the website for updates. But if winging it is more your style, visit any night and allow yourself to be enveloped by the Grand Central Market experience. 317 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.624.2378, grandcentralmarket.com

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LATE-NIGHT BITES AT GRAND CENTRAL MARKET

PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM TOP: DANIELLE BERNABE; COURTESY THE MUSIC CENTER. FROM TOP: LAURE JOLIET (2); COURTESY BAR MORUNO; COURTESY UCB

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WWALK INTO A blast from the past at Button Mash, Echo Park’s ‘80s- and ‘90s-inspired arcade and restaurant. From 9 p.m.midnight M-Th and 9 p.m.-2 a.m.

F-Sa, patrons ages 21 and up can brush up on their Millipede, XMen or Michael Jackson’s Moonwalker skills. But this isn’t your average barcade; the excellent pan-Asian cuisine—a collaboration with L.A. foodie favorite Starry Kitchen—sets it apart (especially the garlic noodles: fresh ramen bathed in clarified brown butter, oyster sauce and chicken fat). Depending on whom you ask, you might hear “come for the food, stay for the games,” or vice versa. But whether you’re an avid gamer or a lover of unique, highly stylized ambiance, Button Mash provides an awesome experience that will make you yearn for the last century, before everyone had the internet. 1391 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.250.9903, buttonmashla.com

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WESTWOOD PLAZA

Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center

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HEALTH + BEAUTY SERVICES

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SKEE BALL AT ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. WWARM UP THOSE shoulders for a night of serious skee ball at Arts District Brewing Co. With 10 vintage skee ball machines, plus dartboards and pingpong tables, it’s game on well into the night at one of L.A.’s coolest craft brewpubs. If you’re thirsty, suds up with a house-brewed selection of IPAs, ambers, porters and saisons, as well as a curated list of guest beers. And if hitting all those 100s at skee ball works up an appetite, reimagined bar bites from chef Neal Fraser’s Fritzi are ripe for the snacking and available through a takeout window.

In one of downtown’s most vibrant, developing districts, the brewpub can easily be your night’s final destination after checking out the galleries and shops around Joel Bloom Square at Traction Avenue and East 3rd Street or modern art at the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA in nearby Little Tokyo. House beers are $5 M-Th, and closing time is midnight Su-Th, 2 a.m. F-Sa. 828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887, artsdistrictbrewing.com

Clockwise from top right: The gold room at Century Day & Night Spa; a detail from the spa’s salt room; a class at Paint & Sip Studio L.A.; suds, skee ball and the patio at Arts District Brewing Co.

ART AFTER DARK AT PAINT & SIP STUDIO L.A.

WTAP YOUR INNER artist and wine connoisseur during a creative nighttime experience at Paint & Sip Studio L.A. Bring $25 and a bottle of your favorite

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wine, enjoy a guided painting class from 7:30-10 p.m. and take home a fully completed work of art. Classes are generally available every night of the week, but booking ahead of time is recommended, as they sell out fast. Go with a group for a fun experience with friends, or head there solo to meet new ones. The studio is in MidCity, not far from the Grove,

Original Farmers Market and Los Angeles County Museum of Art—perfect for topping off a day exploring one of L.A.’s most exciting neighborhoods. No artistic experience is necessary, and who knows—you might discover a hidden talent.

Classes are for ages 21 and up.

351 S. La Brea Ave., Suite 3, L.A., 323.386.4700, paintandsipstudiola.com

WWIDE AWAKE AT 3 a.m.?

No need to toss and turn.

Koreatown’s Century Day & Night Spa is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week to ease your mind. Unwind with a milk scrub or sugar massage, sweat it out in a sauna or soak in a pool or a hot tub. Treat yourself to a facial, chill out in the ice room or take a snooze in the community nap area. For the active relaxer, there’s a fully equipped gym and driving range as well. The spa is for ages 18 and up and split into female- and male-only areas. An important detail to note: Clothing is entirely optional in these areas. Many choose to go au naturel, but don’t feel pressured to do the same. There is a coed, clothing-required area too.

Entrance to the main spa is $25 (six hours max; services cost extra), and parking is free behind the main building. 4120 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A., 323.954.1020, centurydayandnightspa.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: COURTESY CENTURY DAY & NIGHT SPA (2); COURTESY PAINT & SIP STUDIO L.A.; RAINBEAU THARP (3)

24/7 Relaxation at Century Day & Night Spa

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EXPLORING

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS IS A LUXURY LOVER’S MECCA: DESIGNER SHOPPING, FINE DINING, MANSIONS. CENTURY CITY, WESTWOOD AND CULVER CITY ARE POCKETS WITH THEIR OWN DRAWS.

➺It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that boasts some The Mansions

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansionbuilding in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book ahead with Starline Tours, to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revivalstyle Greystone Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

Rodeo Drive + Golden Triangle

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as

the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Burberry, Balenciaga, Fendi and Gucci each recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fine-art destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo.

Sip some wine at 208 Rodeo, then pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and recently revamped Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

The Industry + the Arts

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based

here. Rub shoulders with the power-lunchers at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon, or grab dinner and hear live music at Mastro’s Steakhouse just up the street. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. There is even more cultural programming at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

Century City

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which is open for business as it undergoes a dramatic redevelopment.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CVB; EDWIN SANTIAGO. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the world’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

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NEW IN TOWN Balenciaga

The European fashion house opens its second U.S. flagship store—its first under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia.

353 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.854.0557

Bobbi Brown

The makeup maven’s first West Coast boutique offers her full line of products, makeup lessons and the limited-edition “Sunset Pink” collection—perfect for creating that SoCal glow. 9497 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.275.4650

Citizen

This “social dining experience” serves seasonal dishes and cocktails in the reworked Spaghettini & the Dave Koz Lounge space. 184 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.402.5885

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

Opposite, from left: Welcome to Beverly Hills; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

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The pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings.

Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, inside the towering residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens.

The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

G R E AT F I N D

Westwood Village

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street.

Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime starspotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

Culver City

Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with restaurants including Koreanbarbecue spot Hanjip and modern American restaurant Akasha. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’

/scents fit for royalty

➺ Beverly Hills’ outpost of Penhaligon’s is a mere sliver of a shop on Rodeo Drive, but step inside, and you’re transported to English gardens, Moroccan souks and beyond. The perfume house dates to 1870, when William Penhaligon, a barber in London’s hammam baths, began parlaying his inspirations into fragrances that impressed the royal court. Since then, luminaries including the Duke of Marlborough (for whom Blenheim Bouquet was created), princesses, supermodels and Hollywood stars have worn Penhaligon’s, which boasts two royal warrants. The house won’t rest on its laurels, however: This year, it released the Greek mythologyinspired Endymion Concentre and Luna, pictured right, sending devotees over the moon. 439 ½ N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.1710, penhaligons.com —S.E.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY PENHALIGON’S

The Culver City station on the Metro Expo Line

Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year.

Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent extension, goes from 7th St./Metro Center all the way to Santa Monica.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened on Washington. In 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with 16 soundstages accommodating TV-show and feature-film shoots at Culver Studios and hits such as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! being taped on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 76.

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EXPLORING

Santa Monica SANTA MONICA HAS THE APPROACHABLE VIBE OF A BEACH TOWN WITH THE ATTRACTIONS OF A MAJOR CITY. MALIBU, VENICE AND MARINA DEL REY ARE APPEALING OPTIONS NEARBY.

➺In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century

version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey. Third Street Promenade, three pedestrianonly blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to Mercado or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the top-level Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

Main Street + Montana Avenue

Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V., new Olive & June nail salon and Malin + Goetz. Father’s Office is known for its burgers, Ox & Son is tops for “oystas,” and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

The Arts

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank

Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performingarts, film, dance and theater venue.

On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center—now a stop on the Expo Line—has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to some 30 galleries and a café.

Malibu

A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony in the 1920s, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrity-home central continues today.

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and

TOP LEFT AND OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Third Street + the Pier

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NEW IN TOWN Dogeared

The Culver City-based jewelry brand marks its 25th anniversary by opening its first-ever store, where you can shop for free-spirited, American-made designs, including store exclusives.

2909 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.9538

Flower Child

This all-day fast-casual spot from the founder of True Food Kitchen serves up healthy, organic meals in a hippie-chic setting.

1332 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.382.2901

The Now

The fashionable—and affordable—massage boutique brings its Tulum, Mexico, vibes to the beach town. 2407 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.310.2914

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The Getty Center in Brentwood. Opposite, from left: Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica; Santa Monica State Beach

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Malibu’s land was once so coveted that heiress May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers.

up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose Café-Restaurant, plus a smattering of hip shops. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, between the performers, the vendors and the Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

Brentwood

Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

Topanga + Pacific Palisades

In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific

G R E AT F I N D

Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road.

Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake.

The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Venice

Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, lined with multimillion-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming

/ meet your matcha

➺ Matcha: The nutrient-rich powdered tea leaves have all of L.A. going green.

Enter Shuhari Matcha Café, which recently popped up on Venice’s hippest thoroughfare. With a name that combines respect for traditional tea ceremonies with the energy of modern life, Shuhari offers an expertly curated selection of fine green teas from Japan and complements its drink offerings with matcha everything. Pair your matcha kinako black sugar latte or sparkling pineapple matcha with inventive sliders or a variety of toasted bread rolls. For dessert, a matcha or nutty black sesame ice-cream sundae should hit the spot. You can even buy your own matcha and tea paraphernalia in the front of the shop to re-create the Zen experience at home. 1522 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.238.8324, shuharicafe.com —G.G.

Marina del Rey

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors myriad ways to get out on the water.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.­­ For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 76.

FROM TOP: ANGELA DECENZO; @COMOANDTHECITY, COURTESY SHUHARI

Skateboarders take a break at Venice Beach.

Marilyn Monroe once called this enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite stamping ground of the affluent and famous. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

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MEMORIES MADE FRESH DAILY FROM AN 82 YEAR–OLD FAMILY RECIPE.

LOS ANGELES’ FAVORITE SHOPPING & DINING DESTINATION SINCE 1934

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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Every day, The Original Farmers Market delivers exceptional shopping, fresh food and fond memories. Conveniently located in the heart of Los Angeles, this historic landmark features open-air ambiance and an eclectic mix of over 100 specialty shops, artisan grocers, and world-class restaurants—many of which are still owned and operated by generations-old family merchants. We invite you to visit one of the city’s most iconic destinations, re-created daily with the timeless ingredients of family, friends and fun.

8/16/16 4:44 PM

EXPLORING

West Hollywood TRENDS IN FASHION, DESIGN AND FOOD OFTEN BEGIN IN L.A., AND MANY OF THOSE INNOVATIONS CAN BE TRACED TO THE PIONEERING COMMUNITY OF WEST HOLLYWOOD.

➺For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West

Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and newer 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in stand-up, as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

Sunset Plaza

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a

collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl.

For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a mani-pedi at Jessica—The Clinic, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.

Melrose Avenue

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Ron Herman, Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood.

Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-

block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Nine Zero One and such cutting-edge boutiques as Irene Neuwirth, Isabel Marant, the Apartment by the Line and Violet Grey.

West Hollywood Design District

Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its newer offerings are a Helmut Lang flagship and RH: the Gallery on Melrose Avenue.

The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and is home to a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

Beverly + West 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants,

DALE BERMAN (2). OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

Sunset Strip

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NEW IN TOWN Mardi

Palihouse’s new restaurant serves up family-style dishes and garden-party vibes. 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020

Raquel Allegra

The L.A. designer’s first retail store carries her signature breezy tie-dye and textured pieces. 8372 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.433.4245

Vanessa Seward

Browse the Parisbased fashion vet’s ‘70s-inspired styles at her first U.S. boutique, steps from fellow Melrose Place newcomers Cotton Citizen, Rachel Comey and Moon Juice. 8407 Melrose Place, L.A., 323.230.6662

Chris Burden’s installation Urban Light at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Opposite, from left: Farmers Market; Topshop at the Grove

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W sho a st m sho

One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries.

design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which is undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Uniqlo, Sandro and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Flight 001 for stylish travel supplies, OK for designminded gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary menswear.

Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and Vic Casanova’s two Italian concepts, Gusto and Pistola. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals, dine on Frenchinspired California dishes at Terrine and finish with a sweet treat from Cake Monkey.

G R E AT F I N D

Robertson Boulevard

Robertson Boulevard, once a paparazzi magnet, is still home to shops that appeal to tourists and the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Jovani for special-occasion dresses and new Kitross, from the founder of now-defunct Kitson, for L.A.-inspired gifts. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. Cecconi’s, just off Robertson, is also popular for power lunches.

Fairfax and Mid-Wilshire

L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring MidWilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles

/ nailed it

Jessica Vartoughian opened a Beverly Hills natural-nail-care oasis in 1969, she helped to usher in a new era of nails-only salons—as well as the era of the celebrity manicurist. Thanks to her pioneering “nail cultivation system,” Vartoughian won the loyalty of luminaries including Lucille Ball, Barbra Streisand and Nancy Reagan, who received biweekly manicures in the White House. Today, “The First Lady of Nails” oversees a nail-product empire as well as the celebritybeloved Jessica—The Clinic on Sunset Boulevard, which is freshly polished and still delivering beautiful natural nails and manicures that last and last. There might be a nail salon on every corner these days, but only one can call itself the original.

8627 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.9292, jessicatheclinic.com —S.E.

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LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

➺ When

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The Row on Melrose Place, one of Los Angeles’ most exclusive shopping areas

County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the newly renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed traditional restaurants are located.

To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with hot restaurants like Odys + Penelope and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie and A+R. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, a taqueria and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple, Paige and the first-ever Elizabeth and James boutique are joined by myriad restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 76-77.

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3rdStree

With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.

Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”

@WESTTHIRDSTREET

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WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . .C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique . . . . . . . . E 3 Bedhead Pajamas . .C Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . .C Entre Nous . . . . . . . . . . . P KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . E Library . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P M. Cohen Designs. . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . P noodle stories . . . . . . . . . E Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . .C 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . P Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T William B.+ Friends . . . Q

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PYRRHA

BEDHEAD PAJAMAS

8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com

8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

8336 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . P Allan Jeffries Framing . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . B Flight 001. . . . . . . . . . . . . E Freehand Gallery . . . . . . B M. Cohen Designs. . . . Q Michael Hittleman Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . B New Stone Age . . . . . . . B Plastica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B Portola Paints & Glazes . G 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Vintageweave Interiors. U MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . E Duncan Quinn . . . . . . . . R Concept 83661/2 . . . . Q 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E 1 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . R KIDS Eggy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C Youth Academy of Dramatic Arts . . . . . . J

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THE ORLANDO HOTEL

DAN DEUTSCH OPTICAL OUTLOOK

8048 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 656-5474 blueplatewest3rd.com

8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

8358 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-6181 dandeutschopticaloutlook.com

OPTICAL 6 Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . Q Gogosha Optique . . . . . R Optical Sphere . . . . . . . . T SERVICES Grandpoint Bank . . . . . . N Mercer Vine Real Estate . . . . . . . . S 5 Orlando Hotel . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . Q Zulu Tattoo . . . . . . . . . . . J FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co. . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . P 4 Blue Plate Oysterette . . . . . . . . T Carmela Ice Cream. . . . U The Churchill . . . . . . . . Q Juice Served Here. . . . Q Doughboys Cafe & Bakery . . . . . . . . . . S El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . R Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . Q Gusto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P Joan’s on Third . . . . . . Q Kreation Organic . . . . . . P The Little Door . . . . . . . . S The Little Next Door . . . S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . .C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . Q Mama’s Secret Bakery & Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . Q Matcha Box . . . . . . . . . . . T Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Pistola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . T Simplethings Restaurant . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . Q Sweet E’s Bakery . . . . . .G Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . K Toca Madera . . . . . . . . . . P Verve Coffee Roasters . K

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FITNESS AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . P AuraCycle . . . . . . . . . . . . F The Bar Method . . . . . . . P Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . R

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BEAUTY (cont.)

Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . .G Stript Wax Bar . . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R Lionel Renard . . . . . . . . . J

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EXPLORING

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND ITS HIP, UP-AND-COMING NEIGHBORS LOS FELIZ, SILVER LAKE AND ECHO PARK SHARE IN THE LIMELIGHT.

➺“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was experiencing Hollywood & Highland

Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Ohm nightclub, dining spots and shops such as Sweet! candy store and Louis Vuitton. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

Showtime

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored

by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows.

Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb

was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including The Book of Mormon and Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry.

More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, Hollywood-style

Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds

Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip, a costume worn by Leonardo DiCaprio and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

Around Vine

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie.

A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the

FROM LEFT: LISA ROMEREIN; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, and waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

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NEW IN TOWN

Eckhaus Latta

The edgy, artsy fashion brand’s first boutique doubles as a gallery and clubhouse. Plus, the store’s backyard plays host to live music. 5204 Fountain Ave., L.A., 323.905.2882

Gwen

Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s new restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother—features meat-centric tasting menus and an in-house butcher shop. 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513

Sawyer

Restaurateur Beau Laughlin’s sunny new spot serves up seafood staples in Silver Lake. 3709 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.641.3709

Hollywood Pantages Theatre.

Opposite, from left: Eclectic gifts at Wacko/Soap Plant in Los Feliz; performers and onlookers on the Hollywood Walk of Fame

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Among the largest urban parks in America, sprawling Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more.

Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo, and bar, the Library.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by cool boutiques.

Nightcrawling

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife opportunities, and a lively barand-club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-

G R E AT F I N D

themed Hemingway’s, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse and Project Club LA. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to dozens of clubs and eateries including chef Brendan Collins’ excellent Birch.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September.

Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A.

Los Feliz + Silver Lake

These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s

/ breaking up is hard to do

➺ Occupying a former Frederick’s of Hollywood lingerie store, The Museum of

Broken Relationships (a branch of the original in Zagreb, Croatia) brings a justcan’t-look-away collection of love and loss—and hope—to the heart of Hollywood.

Souvenirs and mementos representing relationships of all kinds, submitted by anonymous brokenhearted donors, are displayed simply with explanations that include beginning and end dates, written as if on a gravestone. You’ll find the expected soft toys, poems and love notes, but also contact lenses, a coffee cup, a door key, a dinosaur piñata, an unworn dress, fake breasts and other objects both intimate and ordinary. Each item has its own story, and you’ll end up fascinated by (and maybe even relating to) every one of them. 6751 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., brokenships.la —J.B.

Griffith Park

Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location.

The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 76-77.

FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY MOBR

Visitors ride a miniature train on the Griffith Park & Southern Railroad.

increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Wacko and hip Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

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©2016 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 16-ADV-18186

HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & ™ Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s16) ©2016 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 16-ADV-18186

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EXPLORING

Downtown L.A.’S URBAN CENTER REFLECTS THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY, WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE AND DYNAMIC COMMERCE THAT MAKE THE CITY A SUPERSTAR ON THE GLOBAL STAGE.

➺Downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter, with new restaurants and shops opening daily. Historic art

deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 77-year-old station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or Expo Line to Santa Monica.

The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

Grand Avenue + Music Center

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at the Music Center.

The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect

Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

Descending Bunker Hill

Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both house premier collections of contemporary art. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA; nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (now dormant) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World.” At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the

U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

Olvera Street

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

Historic Districts

Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and new BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; LISA ROMEREIN. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Union Station

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NEW IN TOWN Benjamin Arts District

Benjamin Mohapi (of WeHo’s Benjamin With Negin Zand) opens a luxe new salon, with retail offerings curated by Selects Beauty. 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 424.249.3296

OUE Skyspace Los Angeles

Take in unbeatable 360-degree city views from the U.S. Bank Tower at the tallest open-air observation deck in the West.

633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000

Pocket Square Clothing

The dapper men’s brand’s new flagship carries stylish accessories from some 20 L.A.based designers. 205 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.5111

K.G. Louie Co.’s storefront in Chinatown.

Opposite, from left: Grand Park and City Hall; sweets from Bottega Louie on South Grand Avenue

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Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

east is the rapidly gentrifying Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; new galleries including Hauser Wirth & Schimmel; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as the Factory Kitchen, Officine Brera and Bestia.

L.A. Live

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

Shopping Districts

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices.

For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go.

And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

G R E AT F I N D

Chinatown

Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at new foodie-favorite spots like Pok Pok LA and Howlin’ Rays or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods.

Cultural highlights include Thien Hau Temple and the Chinese American Museum. Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques.

Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

Little Tokyo

Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to upscale Asian fusion at Simbal. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum.

The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s

/ in the bag

➺ The handbags designed by sisters Nancy and Kimberly Wu—the Orange County-

born founders of Building Block—are not your typical “it” bags. Their lines are unfussy, their logo is discreet, and their ornamentation is limited to a wooden cincher here or leather tassel there. Yet they are easily spotted (and mightily desired) by the fashion cognoscenti, who are celebrating the launch of the brand’s first studio/retail store, in Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza. Iko Iko’s Kristin Dickson-Okuda and Shin Okuda collaborated on the furniture for the space, whose gallery-like walls are a complementary backdrop for the bags and other accessories, as well as books selected by Suzanne Wu (an homage to the previous occupant, a Chinese bookstore). 970 N. Broadway, Unit 104, downtown, 323.803.3420, building--block.com —S.E.

Exposition Park

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The California African American Museum delves into African-American history, and the beaux arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of downtown, see page 77.

FROM TOP: DANIEL ENNIS; COURTESY BUILDING BLOCK

A mural in downtown’s burgeoning Arts District—one of Los Angeles’ best places to see street art

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Rock’n Fish and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

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L.A. STYLE OUTLET SAVINGS

Coach Michael Kors Kate Spade TUMI Hugo Boss A/X Disney Tommy Hilfiger Nike Levi’s Outlet

There is a style that is uniquely Los Angeles.

Effortless, defined by this place where dreams come true and trends are born.

Find Your L.A. Style at Citadel Outlets.

A truly World Class shopping experience, with over 130 stores full of big brand style and fashion-conscious savings.

It’s so L.A.— and only minutes from downtown.

CitadelOutlets.com I-5 at Atlantic Blvd. exit.

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EXPLORING

Pasadena THE BLOOM OF PASADENA DOESN’T FADE AFTER NEW YEAR’S DAY, AS A BLEND OF SMALL-TOWN CHARM AND COSMOPOLITAN ENERGY MAKES THE CROWN CITY A YEAR-ROUND DESTINATION.

➺Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Urban Outfitters, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant.

Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square.

Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-theart technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable. A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

Playhouse District + South Lake Avenue

San Marino + San Gabriel Valley

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art-house cinema, antique shops, boutiques and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House comedy club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum (which is closed through May 2017 for a seismic retrofit). The Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on

South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and new education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art, and a library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure.

Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen & Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,400 varieties of the flower.

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia,

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY THE NORTON SIMON ART FOUNDATION. OPPOSITE: LISA ROMEREIN

commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

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NEW IN TOWN

Tadashi Shoji

The eveningwear designer, beloved by celebrities and the first lady alike, opens his first concept boutique, which features art installations alongside red-carpet-ready gowns. 2212 Glendale Galleria, Glendale, 818.547.5448

TLT Food

The Great Food Truck Race winner the Lime Truck serves up its tasty fusion tacos at a fourth brick-andmortar location. 36 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.714.7117

TOMS

The do-good brand marks its 10th anniversary with the opening of its second stand-alone store in L.A. Shop for shoes, sunglasses and even bridalwear at the new location at the Americana at Brand. 775 Americana Way, Suite E-16, Glendale, 818.637.7844

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. Opposite, from left: Windowshoppers in Old Pasadena; a gallery at the Norton Simon Museum

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The Americana at Brand in Glendale

home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants, so the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

The Road to South Pasadena

The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including

G R E AT F I N D

the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House) that now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House.

This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915 whose vintage soda fountain is straight from a Norman Rockwell painting.

Eagle Rock + Glendale

West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a ven-

/ strike a pose

➺ Score one for nostalgia. In an area that’s no stranger to the wrecking ball, the

newly restored Highland Park Bowl is a lucky strike. The 1927 building has been stripped back to reveal its original Spanish Revival exterior and period details, from the chrome Brunswick pin-setters to a rediscovered 1930s forest mural. Today, stepping into the eight-lane bowling lounge is a step back into Prohibition-era history, when the building was an ad hoc speakeasy. Drinking is once again the name of the game, with booze served at a horseshoe bar, along with Neapolitan-style pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven. Lanes with oversized sofas rent for $50-$70 per hour for up to six keglers, plus $5 shoe rentals. Family bowling before 8 p.m., 21+ after. 5621 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.257.2695, highlandparkbowl.com —V.A.

erable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College—where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County.

There, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Style-savvy shoppers can browse at boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Steps from the Alex is the new Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 78.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY HIGHLAND PARK BOWL

The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks.

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OPBD-0

J

ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles and conveniently situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprising 22 blocks of nationally registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California.

Come explore more than 300 independent boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafes, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

Visit or shop online at this artful living boutique that offers a mix of unique new and vintage furniture, home furnishings and gifts.

Maude Woods 55 E. Holly Street 626.577.3400 maudewoods.com

Popular for 27 years offering fresh, light Italian cooking with New York flavors and a variety of exotic cuisine to meet guests’ diverse palate.

A contemporary cabinet of curiosities with a museum perspective on current artists, jewelers, and designers.

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Mi Piace Italian Kitchen

Gold Bug

Clothes Heaven

25 E. Colorado Blvd.

626.795.3131 mipiace.com

22 E. Union St. 626.744.9963 goldbugpasadena.com

111 E. Union Street 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

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EXPLORING

The Valley HOLLYWOOD MIGHT BE THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY, BUT THE SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, AKA “THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HILL,” IS WHERE MOVIEMAKING MAGIC HAPPENS.

➺

Universal City

A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with rollicking roller coasters and high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The brand-new Wizarding World of Harry Potter attraction is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfieldthemed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House. Restaurants include new Blaze Pizza, Smashburger and chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird, and stores such as Lush Cosmetics and Skechers will loosen your wallet.

Burbank

Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. This cosmopolitan city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros.

Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

As vibrant as it is, Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw.

More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the ever-popular Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with nightlife destinations, shops and trendy bistros such as Granville

Cafe. Another must-visit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Pinup Girl are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery—one of the country’s top restaurants, according to Yelp—offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for Burbank’s uncongested Bob Hope Airport.

It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

FROM LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms.

Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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The Federal Bar in North Hollywood.

Opposite, from left: Universal CityWalk in Universal City; a dessert from renowned Porto’s Bakery in Burbank

NEW IN TOWN

Alfred {Coffee + Kitchen}

The trendy café comes to the Valley, bringing nitro cold brew, Yeastie Boys Bagels and Café Gratitude food.

12077 Ventura Place, Studio City, alfredcoffee.com

Claudine

This cute all-day spot is both an artisanal kitchen and bakeshop. 16350 Ventura Blvd., Suite F, Encino, 818.616.3838

Dongpo Kitchen Meizhou Dongpo’s new casual concept serves traditional Chinese fare at Universal CityWalk. 100 Universal City Plaza, Suite V103, Universal City, 818.358.3362

North Hollywood

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard

This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley.

Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and

Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, new favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques, including Dari and Voyage et Cie, and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its familyoriented lifestyle.

Deep in the Valley

Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman.

The Village lifestyle destination opened last fall, expanding the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant openair destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 78.

WHERE LOS ANGELES 45

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EXPLORING

South Bay

➺In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic

coastal stretch renowned for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. This laid-back city is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the city’s picturesque pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks. The pier features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as The Arthur J, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering spot, with shops such as the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including a scenic 2-mile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from packed bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Killer Shrimp.

Beyond Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday-night shows. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and Steak & Whisky are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat

Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here you find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick-andcasual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach.

One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY HERMOSA BEACH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; COURTESY FISHING WITH DYNAMITE. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS ARE ACTION-PACKED, BUT THE LIVING IS EASY. LOOK FOR OCEAN-VIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND SEASIDE ATTRACTIONS.

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NEW IN TOWN Bellacures

The high-end nailsalon chain debuts a stylish new look at its latest outpost. The Point, 820 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.341.7600

Fabletics

Kate Hudson’s trendyyet-affordable activewear brand opens a shop at Del Amo Fashion Center. 3524 W. Carson St., Torrance, 424.265.9222

Suburbia

At chef Tin Vuong’s new neighborhood eatery, the menu features standout dishes from across his restaurant empire.

247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237

The Queen Mary in Long Beach. Opposite, from left: Hermosa Beach Pier; Fishing With Dynamite in Manhattan Beach

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Fendi ©2016 South Coast Plaza

Among Long Beach’s most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel.

The horseshoe-shaped pier in Redondo Beach

Palos Verdes Peninsula

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a yearround attraction boasting 200,000 plants.

Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular gray-whalewatching site. Just beyond the adjacent Point Vicente lighthouse is the Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course.

Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

The nearby 18-hole public course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

G R E AT F I N D

San Pedro

The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and new brewery Brouwerij West. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turnedmuseum USS Iowa. The New England-style Ports O’ Call Village offers waterfront restaurants and shops, and beyond it is the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex also includes the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach—one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

/ take a break

➺ In Sweden, the term “fika” refers to a daily practice of taking a break to recharge

over coffee and baked goods. Sounds heavenly, no? Luckily for us, Andres Pineros, owner of new coffee roastery The Fika Company, thinks so, too. He’s created the perfect spot for duplicating the cultural institution in the South Bay. The café’s coffee is direct-traded from Colombian farmers, then roasted in small, 5-kilo batches in the shop. Customers rave about the cold brew and mochas, which pair nicely with the pastries and artisanal chocolates on offer. Enjoy a cup inside the stylish, livingroom-like interior, or sit outside on the rustic, dog-friendly patio. You can even pick up some freshly roasted, bagged Colombian coffee to brew yourself, so you can fika at home. 350 N. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, thefikacompany.com —G.G.

In the county’s southwest corner, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, The Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintagefurniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 77.

FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY THE FIKA COMPANY

Long Beach

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where

the guide DIN ING

QUENTIN BACON

Top Honors The opening of celebrity chef Curtis Stone’s restaurant/ butcher shop Gwen (p. 52) in Hollywood is the talk of L.A.’s dining scene (a variety of its charcuterie options are pictured here).

The former Top Chef Masters host also has the intimate Maude (p. 54) in Beverly Hills, where he showcases a different seasonal ingredient each month. But Stone isn’t the only alum of Bravo’s Top Chef franchise feeding fans in L.A. In Century City, Top Chef head judge Tom Colicchio’s highend Craft (p. 52) offers an à la carte menu with fun, shareable dishes. Other noteworthy local draws include Michael Voltaggio’s Ink. on Melrose (p. 52), Nyesha Arrington’s Leona in Venice (p. 54) and CJ Jacobson’s Girasol (p. 54) in Studio City.

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THE GUIDE | DINING

ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate-crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 AREAL Community restaurant serves locally grown, sustainable food paired with cocktails crafted from organic, fresh produce. The daily happy hour is a draw, as is the dog-friendly patio. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2820 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.1661 $$ Map M9 BIRCH Cahuenga Corridor spot from chef Brendan Collins serves a seasonally driven menu (try the rabbit baklava with dates, white beans, pistachios and carrots) in a whitewashed, clean-lined space. D (nightly), Sunday roast noon-4 pm. 1634 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.960.3369 $$$ Map H13

A Bite Above Downtown L.A.’s restaurant scene has been on the rise for years. But it has reached new heights with the opening of 71Above—“the highest restaurant west of the Mississippi”— on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. The swanky new eatery headed by chef Vartan Abgaryan (formerly of Cliff’s Edge) towers 950 feet above 5th Street. Diners can enjoy an unobstructed panoramic view of the city’s skyline and beyond while dining on elevated modern American cuisine. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe twocourse lunch menus and threecourse dinner menus ($35 and $70, respectively) are offered in the main dining room (pictured above) and in several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$ Map H16

CLAIM JUMPER Saloon-style eatery features grill fare and its own label of craft beer. L (varies by location), D (nightly), Br (varies by location). 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505; 820 W. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, 626.359.0463; 9429 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.718.2882; 25740 The Old Road, Valencia, 661.254.2628; 6501 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, 562.431.1321 $ Map T22, Q23, north of A1 (2), D4 CLIFTON’S This kitschy downtown cafeteria, which dates to the 1930s, recently reopened after a multimillion-dollar renovation. The multiple-story eatery offers old-school cuisine like a roast-meat-carving station and Jell-O for dessert, as well as a craft-beer bar and the new Pacific Seas tiki bar. L, D (daily). 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673 $$ Map I16 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s new restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric, five-course tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front. 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 INDEPENDENCE This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, which connected downtown L.A. with what is now the Santa Monica Pier back in 1875. The restaurant’s casual setting belies its refined new American cuisine. L (Tu-Th), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 INK. Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio showcases daring molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant.

Explore the constantly changing à la carte small plates.

D (nightly). 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 LEDLOW The newest restaurant from chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston), offers twists on classic bistro dishes, American favorites and diverse

guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

index American.............................. 52 Japanese................................56 Breweries/Gastropubs.... 53 Mediterranean....................56 British/Irish.......................... 53 Mexican/Latin.................... 57 California............................... 53 Pan-Asian..............................58 Chinese..................................54 Seafood..................................59 Eclectic/Fusion...................54 Spanish..................................59 French.....................................54 Steak.......................................60 Italian...................................... 55 Thai........................................... 61

cultural staples (e.g., brioche French toast and chicken schnitzel). B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I17 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill features a live-fire grill and wood-fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. Vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree options also available. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 OX & SON Farm-to-table restaurant and wine/cocktail bar from the FNA Hospitality Group (Art’s Table, Ashland Hill, OP Cafe). Creative comfort-food menu includes items like handmade cavatelli, plus gluten-free options. B (daily), L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

1534 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.829.3990 $$$ Map K8 PLAN CHECK KITCHEN + BAR Growing minichain offers contemporary takes on American classics, complemented with craft beers and premium whiskeys.

Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather. L, D (daily). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616 $$ Map K9, I12, H16 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17 SADDLE PEAK LODGE Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this elegant hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as grilled Blue Mountain wapiti elk tenderloin. D (nightly), Br (Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 SALT CREEK GRILLE Enjoy mesquite-grilled burgers, chops, steaks, seafood and an interesting selection of California beers and wines at these classic American restaurants, which boast outdoor patios and live music.

El Segundo: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Valencia: L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2015 E. Park Place, El Segundo, 310.335.9288; 24415 Town Center Drive, Suite 115, Valencia, 661.222.9999 $$ Map L14, north of A2

Master chef Joachim Splichal (Patina, p. 55, Kendall’s, p. 54) has overseen catering for the Emmy Awards Governors Ball for more than 20 years.

WONHO FRANK LEE

American

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DINING THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. Executive chef Greg Hozinsky’s menu includes such starters as foie gras and charcuterie, which might be followed by branzino with black-truffle risotto. Don’t miss pastry chef Stephanie Franz’s doughnuts! L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

Breweries/Gastropubs ASHLAND HILL Casual craft-beer and wine garden from the restaurant group behind Ox & Son features a rotating selection of small-batch artisanal and “super-local” drafts and craft wines. Dine on creative bar bites in the cool taproom, or dig into the signature pork-belly tacos on the garden patio. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2807 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.3300 $$ Map M9 FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly).

Culver City: L (F-Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence

LOS ANGELES | NEWPORT BEACH at FASHION ISLAND | SANTA MONICA

La Jolla

COMING SOON

www.redorestaurant.com

SIMMZY’S Popular pub with locations in Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Burbank and just off the Venice pier serves up hearty burgers (try the classic Simmzy’s), sandwiches, salads and other fresh fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3000 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.962.2500; 5271 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.439.5590; 229 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.1201; 37 Washington Blvd., Venice, 424.835.6580 $ Map T20, O17, L13, N9

British/Irish O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB Pub and restaurant with brews and spirits, Irish and American cuisine, outdoor patio and live entertainment. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2941 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.4725 $ Map M8 TEA ROSE GARDEN This whimsical, English-garden tearoom, an Old Pasadena fixture for 20 years, serves traditional fare including scones, finger sandwiches and salads sprinkled with flower petals. A florist and boutique selling tea trays and loose-leaf teas are also onsite. B, L, Br (daily). 70 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.578.1144 $$ Map Q20 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, including acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa).

116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

California Cuisine CAVATINA Esteemed East Coast chef Michael Schlow’s first L.A. restaurant serves simple, local, delicious cuisine inside the rock ‘n’ roll-steeped Sunset Marquis hotel. Don’t miss Schlow’s award-winning burger. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1200 Alta Loma Road, West Hollywood, 310.358.3759 $$$ Map H12 CHAYA The original Chaya in Japan remains open after nearly 400 years. In L.A., the Japanese-Californian menus feature modern izakaya dishes in addition to fresh seafood from local waters and Kyushu, Japan. Downtown: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). Venice: L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map H16, M8 COMMISSARY Buzzworthy poolside eatery from Roy Choi in a greenhouse-like setting. Emphasis on fruit- and vegetable-themed dishes and drinks. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). The Line Hotel, second-floor greenhouse, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3030 $$ Map J14

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DINING

RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners.

Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8

Avocado toast at Terrine

SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11

FIG RESTAURANT Dine on a seasonal menu of bistro fare at this restaurant inside the Fairmont Miramar.

Sunday brunch features the virtuous, as well as the decadent, plus creative cocktails. B, L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8

THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from culinary-darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9

THE FRONT YARD This restaurant at the Garland hotel features fresh farm-to-table cuisine from chef Larry Greenwood. Start your meal with chive flatbread topped with chimichurri butter, then move on to entrées like Mary’s Chicken. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4222 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood, 818.255.7290 $$ Map U19

TAVERN Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B (M-F), L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

GIRASOL Chef CJ Jacobson, a former Top Chef contestant, incorporates foraged ingredients into an inventive California menu (e.g., hamachi with white fir and wild sorrel). D (nightly), Br (Su). 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City, 818.924.2323 $$$ Map U19 HINOKI & THE BIRD Inside luxury residential tower the Century, taste Japanese and Southeast Asian flavors in such dishes as lobster rolls with green curry and Thai basil, and black cod scented with the smoke of the namesake hinoki wood. L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa). 10 W. Century Drive, Century City, 310.552.1200 $$$ Map J10 LEONA Top Chef and Knife Fight alum chef Nyesha Arrington serves upscale, seasonally driven “progressive California cuisine” (bulgogi-braised short rib, coctel mixto) a few blocks east of the Venice pier. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 123 W. Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.822.5379 $$$ Map N9

TERRINE Comfortable, elevated California brasserie fare (e.g., moules frites) from chef Kris Morningstar. The patio, which is dominated by a magnificent tree and dotted with sparkling lights, is as romantic as they come. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 8265 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.746.5130 $$$ Map I12 VIVIANE The Avalon Hotel Beverly Hills’ swanky poolside restaurant features a menu by chef Michael Hung (Faith & Flower), 1950s-inspired cocktails and a midcentury-modern design by Kelly Wearstler. California takes on European and American dishes include a beautiful salad of Little Gem lettuces. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.407.7791 $$$ Map J11

Chinese

LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13

BAO DIM SUM Premier dim-sum restaurant serves delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert.

L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12

MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 25-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his grandmother. Every month a different seasonal ingredient is showcased and artfully presented in a nine-course menu. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11

DIN TAI FUNG Popular and critically acclaimed dumpling house, founded in Taiwan, has a location in Glendale’s Americana at Brand and a new location in the Westfield Santa Anita in Arcadia. Foodies line up for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588 $$ Map U23, R23

MILO & OLIVE The husband-and-wife team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery.

Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9 PLANT FOOD AND WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9

MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York and London offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly).

Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 ROC At this Little Osaka dumpling house, popular menu items include a scallion pancake, three-cup chicken and made-from-scratch soup dumplings stuffed

with pork and fresh crab. Additional locations are on West 3rd Street and in Playa Vista, with a Culver City outpost on the way. L, D (daily). 2049 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.235.2089 $$ Map K10 YANG CHOW Authentic, fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since the Yun family opened the spot in 1977. Don’t miss the lemon chicken or Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. Outposts recently opened in the Valley and Pasadena. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

Eclectic/Fusion BÄCO MERCAT Chef Josef Centeno draws international praise for his inspired creations. The bäco, a flatbread sandwich, is his signature dish here. Other selections include spicy hamachi crudo. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I16 CASSIA Part of restaurateurs Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan’s burgeoning dining empire, this bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie set inside a 1930s art deco building finds chef Bryant Ng (Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu and, on the new lunch menu, an updated version of Ng’s celebrated Spice Table burger. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 MAISON AKIRA Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with American wagyu beef, miso sea bass and chawan mushi) in Pasadena’s Playhouse District. Nine-course omakase available. L (F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at his acclaimed third restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16 TROIS MEC The holy foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre (LudoBites), Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook (Animal, Son of a Gun) is behind this hot restaurant in a 24-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. Newer French-bar-style spinoff, Petit Trois, is next door. D (M-F). 716 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

French AVEC NOUS Contemporary French bistro where chef Olivier Quignon, previously at Bar Boulud in New York City, offers dishes inspired by the French Riviera, such as escargot; sea scallops with mushy broccoli, turmeric chermoula and squid-ink crisp; and whole oven-roasted cauliflower vadouvan curry, served tableside. Br, D (daily). Viceroy L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.860.8660 $$$ Map J12 BOUCHON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

JESUS BANUELOS

PUMP Enchanted-garden-themed restaurant and bar from restaurateur and Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star Lisa Vanderpump features a patio with 100-year-old olive trees and a menu created by Food Network Star finalist Penny Davidi. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8948 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.7867 $$ Map I12

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DINING

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra.

Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE NEXT DOOR The Little Door’s charming, casual extension serves modern French brasserie fare and boasts an in-house patisserie featuring viennoiserie, macarons and pastries. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

8142 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1010 $$ Map I12 MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated, modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd.

Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13

Italian ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, half of the talent behind acclaimed Sotto, is behind this tiny, hip space in Silver Lake, where a clever menu features addictive chickenliver crostone with quince mostarda, crudo and pastas.

The chef’s contrarian take on tortellini in brodo features dumplings filled with a hot broth that explodes in your mouth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23

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BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District. The former executive chef at Angelini Osteria serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of house-cured meats.

D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and portobello fries. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to well-heeled clients who schmooze over bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful agnolotti del plin and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well-executed. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12

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CULINA A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and new Vinoteca, an Italianinspired wine and espresso-bar concept. B, L (M-Sa); D (nightly); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16

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DINING

THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrialchic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17 GUSTO Victor Casanova’s intimate neighborhood ristorante has a look and feel reminiscent of his native Bronx. Dishes such as polpette (pork meatballs) plated over chilled, whipped ricotta and fresh-made pastas deserve praise. D (nightly). 8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778 $$$ Map I13 IL FORNAIO Trattoria-style favorite. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

Pasadena: L, D (daily); Br (Su). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 24 W. Union St., Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, Q19

MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12

RAO’S New York’s highly exclusive, family-owned eatery—a legendary celeb and mob hangout—goes Hollywood. Red-sauce specialties galore; the veal meatballs are a Rao’s signature. D (nightly).

1006 Seward St., Hollywood, 323.962.7267 $$$$ Map H13

N/NAKA Offerings are crafted in the kaiseki Japanese culinary tradition, with both classic and modern interpretations. The 13-course menus are prepared with produce from N/Naka’s organic garden; there is an extensive sake and wine list as well. Chef/owner Niki Nakayama was one of six chefs featured in the Netflix documentary series Chef’s Table. D (W-Sa). 3455 S. Overland Ave., L.A., 310.836.6252 $$$$ Map L11

SOTTO This restaurant specializes in regionally inspired Italian cooking, including beautifully executed rustic trattoria dishes; soft, chewy Neapolitan pizzas cooked in an eight-ton wood-burning oven; and intriguing housemade pastas. D (nightly). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 TERRONI Southern Italian cooking including excellent thin-crust pizza. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 VALENTINO For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a pre-eminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu-Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9 VILLA BLANCA Stylish white dining room and Asianaccented menu from reality star Lisa Vanderpump. L, D (daily). 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.859.7600 $$$ Map J11

Japanese

JON & VINNY’S Family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2

ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1

LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8

ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. The expansive restaurant consists of a sushi bar, lounge space, large communal table and terrace. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14

LOCANDA DEL LAGO Rustic family-owned restaurant overlooking Third Street Promenade. Chef Daniele Turchetti turns out traditional northern Italian cuisine made with sustainable proteins and locally sourced ingredients. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8 MATTEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures.

Classic dishes include mussels in white wine and osso buco Milanese. D (Tu-Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 MI PIACE This Italian kitchen/bakery/lounge in the heart of Old Pasadena has been serving up fresh, light Italian cooking with a New York accent for over 25 years.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 25 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.3131 $$ Map Q19 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants.

Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza,

KABUKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT Fun, casual atmosphere and more than 200 items from which to choose, including extensive vegetarian and gluten-free options, plus a great happy hour. 13 locations in Southern California. L, D (daily). 201 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, 818.843.7999; 1545 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.464.6003; 6081 Center Drive, L.A., 310.641.5524; 88 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.568.9310; 3539 E. Foothill Blvd., Pasadena, 626.351.8963; 20940 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.704.8700 $$ Map T23, H14, N11, Q19, Q22, west of A1 KATANA Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck.

L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15

NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents.

West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef/owner Hiroyuki Naruke in items like monkfish as rich as foie gras. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16 ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12 SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu. For foodies 10 and under, Sushi Roku Pasadena offers a fun “okosama” kids’ menu with four bento-box options. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19 URASAWA If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at Urasawa’s bar. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features exquisite, artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu-Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Mediterranean A.O.C. Mediterranean-inspired pioneer of two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef/owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a modernized interior, a new terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney.

Menu favorites include Dover sole, taramasalata and beautiful desserts. The extravagant, seafood-centric Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne brunch is a don’t-miss.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 BOWERY BUNGALOW Restaurateur George Abou-Daoud honors his Middle Eastern heritage here by applying exotic Silk Road flavors to all-American concepts like Southern baby-back ribs. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.1500 $$ Map south of W23

DIANA HOSSFELD

Gracias Madre’s One in a Melon margarita. p. 57

Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101; Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13

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DINING CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort classics. Try the “crab cake,” the attractive artichoke “oysters” topped with crispy oyster mushrooms or, for brunch, the “chicken” and waffles.

The wine list features organic and biodynamic labels.

D, Br (daily). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 ESTÉREL The redesigned restaurant at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills features lovely indoor and outdoor seating areas and farm-to-fork Mediterranean fare. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 FIG & OLIVE New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the paella del mar and the Provence roasted chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio.

B (M-F); L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9

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LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (TuSa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 MAMA SHELTER Mediterranean menus at this hip hotel’s dining venues are helmed by chef Gerard Sampson, formerly of Laurel Hardware. The new rooftop menu features such shareable plates as mummara (roasted red-pepper dip with walnuts), falafel and shawarma platters. Restaurant B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). Rooftop D (daily). 6500 Selma Ave., Hollywood, 323.785.6600 $$$ Map H14 PETROS Fine contemporary-Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13

Mexican/Latin BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 B.S. TAQUERIA The colorful setting at this Ray Garcia-helmed spot—a casual sibling of Broken Spanish, above—offers the right vibe for lemon-pepper chicken chicharrones or clam-and-lardo tacos. A B.S. Taqueria concession stand serving tacos and churros recently debuted at Staples Center. L (M-F), D (nightly). 514 W. 7th St., L.A., 213.622.3744 $$ Map H15

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DÍA DE CAMPO Part of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Abigaile, Steak & Whisky), this restaurant offers innovative Mexican dishes like chocolate-duck quesadillas, chorizo-stuffed dates and wood-grilled lobster with chili butter in a sexy surf-lodge setting. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1238 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.1829 $$ Map L13 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Cafe Gratitude.

Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche tostadas or flautas de papas filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12

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DINING MEXICANO Indoor-outdoor restaurant in the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw shopping center is run by James Beard Award-nominated chefs Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu. Try the poblano mole, a house specialty.

L, D (Tu-Su). 3650 W. Martin Luther King Blvd., L.A., 323.296.0798 $$$ Map northeast of M12 PETTY CASH TAQUERIA Chef Walter Manzke’s “semi-authentic taqueria” serves Mexican street food (e.g., tacos, ceviche) featuring local, seasonal ingredients and refined technique. L (W-Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13 RED O Rick Bayless, one of America’s leading authorities on Mexican cuisine, is consulting chef at these sexy eateries, where creative dishes are grounded in tradition. WeHo: D (nightly). Santa Monica: L (SaSu), D (daily). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009; 1541 Ocean Ave., Suite 120, Santa Monica, 310.458.1600 $$$ Map I12, L8 TORTILLA REPUBLIC This casual-chic WeHo restaurant serves up modern Mexican cuisine made with unusual ingredients and rich in flavor. Sidle up to the white onyx bar or enjoy alfresco dining on the large patio. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 616 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.9888 $$ Map I12

Pan-Asian CRUSTACEAN A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members and select longtime staff members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11

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THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Crustacean, above—celebrates her Vietnamese heritage with a cuisine that reflects authenticity while incorporating California sensibilities. Dishes like lobster with handmade noodles and Vietnamese chicken curry are enjoyed with cocktails infused with Southeast Asian flavors. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE SISTER At these trendy spots from young chef Tin Vuong, sophisticated accents are added to panAsian cuisine, as evidenced in signatures like deep-fried Balinese meatballs with banana ketchup, Myanmar okra curry and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 $$ Map L13, I16 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. The crispy whole market fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 SIMBAL This tricky-to-find Little Tokyo spot, from chef Shawn Pham (the French Laundry, Craft, the Bazaar

by José Andrés), offers a cuisine that combines the best of Ho Chi Minh City’s food stalls with sophisticated technique and Pham’s playful attitude. Don’t miss the bar’s creative cocktails. D (Tu-Sa). 3319 E. 2nd St., Suite 202, downtown, 213.626.0244 $$$ Map H17 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant /lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room D (Tu-Sa). Nest D (nightly). Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

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DINING

Seafood

PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 310-246-1501

Burbank

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE David LeFevre, a Water Grill alum, loads his menu with East Coast inspirations, as well as some innovative dishes. Among the old-school small plates in this tiny, charming restaurant are New England-style clam chowder with Nueske’s bacon and Maryland blue-crab cakes with house-made pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13

3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

Los Angeles

735 South Figueroa St. 213-553-4566

THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots.

Dine on dishes such as crab cakes or chilled crab legs and you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the halfpound. Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

Santa Monica: D (Tu-Su). Sunset + Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7

Costa Mesa

1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

PROVIDENCE Chef/owner Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind Connie and Ted’s and new fish shop Cape Seafood and Provisions) transforms sustainable seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into oft-changing dishes. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelinrecognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

Woodland Hills

6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

Anaheim

SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

1895 South Harbor Blvd.

714-621-0101

mortons.com

T H A I

C U I S I N E

CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for its great nightly happy hour, too. L (M–F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood.

Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill in an exhibition kitchen set in the middle of the dining room. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9

435 S. LaCienega Blvd.

NATALE E

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this casual-yet-stylish restaurant has locations by the pier in Santa Monica and inland on West 3rd Street. 3rd Street: D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Santa Monica: B, L, D (daily). 8048 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.656.5474; 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map I12, L8

Spanish “Readers’ Choice Award 2011-2012” ~LA Times “Best of The West Side 2013-2015” ~The Argonaut

Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd.

Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd.

Full Bar | Valet Parking

Dine In | Delivery Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

BAR PINTXO Spanish tapas bar around the corner from the Santa Monica Pier offers authentic tortilla española, paella, croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines.

L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$ Map M8 THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel.

Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the cutting-edge culinary creations that have made Spain a culinary leader.

Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 20-pluscourse prix-fixe menu. Dining room D (nightly). Saam D (Th-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16 SMOKE.OIL.SALT Authentic, traditional, shareable Spanish cuisine (albondigas al horno, charcuteria de iberico) served in a lively location on Melrose. More than 130 bottles of wines, sparkling cavas and sherries, plus 30 wines by the glass. D (nightly). 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.930.7900 $$ Map I13

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DINING

west hollywood’s sexiest bar & restaurant by lisa vanderpump

Steak ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and one of L.A.’s widest selections of domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. New Bull & Barrel bar concept offers the menu plus an expanded, whiskeyforward cocktail menu and social-hour food menu with specialty items. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 THE ARTHUR J This swanky Manhattan Beach steakhouse, helmed by chef David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite), offers a classic menu that will delight any carnivore, but the seafood dishes and sides-with-a-twist are excellent as well. Sit in the midcentury-inspired, spacious dining room or at the bar.

D (nightly). 903 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.878.9620 $$$$ Map C2 BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sunor-star dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace—perhaps best enjoyed with the Baltaire Julep cocktail in hand.

“BBQ, Blues & Brews” menu served in the bar and lounge Monday nights. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12 BOA Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily).

West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare to Hollywood heavyweights in a dining room with classic good looks. Beverly Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Hollywood, Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; the Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, west of A1 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery—the views are pure Malibu—starters like ahi tartare, lobster cocktail and caviar service are followed by fresh fish, whole Maine lobster or expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 MORTON’S Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; the Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20

RESTAURANT & BAR MON-FRI 5PM-2AM SAT-SUN 11:30AM-2AM LA’S BEST SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH! HAPPY HOUR FRI & SAT 4-6PM SUN-THURS 5-7PM

8948 SANTA MONICA BLVD WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA 90069 310.657.PUMP (7867) WWW.PUMPRESTAURANT.COM

NICK + STEF’S A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Bunker Hill institution Nick + Stef’s is a midcentury-modern vision in hues of coral, blue and caramel with brass touches. The menu includes showstopping meat dishe as well as an expanded seafood menu. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M-F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 PISTOLA The sister restaurant to Victor Casanova’s Gusto gives classic Italian steakhouse fare a modern twist. Enjoy classic dishes such as shrimp scampi, dry-aged Delmonico steak and bone-in veal chop in an elegant space with a sleek, 1950s New York feel.

D (Tu-Sa). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.9800 $$$ Map I13

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SOMETHING FOR

EVERYONE THE SEARCH FOR GREATNESS IS OVER

LUNCH • DINNER • HAPPY HOUR

STEAK & WHISKY Rustic meets modern at this South Bay spot from chef/partner Tin Vuong and partner Jed Sanford of Blackhouse Hospitality Management.

A blend of cultural influences updates American classics like traditional porterhouse and dry-aged beef. D (nightly). 117 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.5555 $$$$ Map L13 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options including 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank and Dungeness Killer Crab. Premium steak options include Little Devil Petite Filet. Pianist Gary Sherer performs Th-Sa evenings in the Gar Bar. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has a sleek new L.A. home. Expect signature savory steaks, shellfish platters and jalapeño-cheddar grits, as well as new dishes such as seared foie gras with spiced rum, and crispy lobster tails. D (nightly).

W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

Thai JITLADA THAI The wait for a table is long at this top-rated restaurant in East Hollywood’s Thai Town, but the Southern Thai specialties, such as moo mae chan (grilled pork Southern-style with papaya salad and sticky rice), are authentic and exceptional.

L, D (Tu-Su). 5233 1/2 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22

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NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Among entrées are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chilies) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily).

10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 NIGHT + MARKET For authentic Thai food, head to either the WeHo or Silver Lake location (the latter is Night + Market Song) of this hip spot from L.A.born chef Kris Yenbamroong. Celebrity diners include Gwyneth Paltrow and Lena Dunham. A third location, Night + Market Sahm, is due open at 2533 Lincoln Blvd. in Venice any day now. WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su).

Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 $$ Map I12, south of W23 PALMS THAI This spot near the Pantages theater is known more for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14 POK POK LA The menu at this 200-seat Mandarin Plaza restaurant from award-winning chef Andy Ricker is divided into five categories that include drinking food, grilled things and sweet things. Standout items include Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, sticky with umami. Ricker also works wonders with duck, ribs and vegetables. L, D (daily). 978 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.613.1831 $$ Map G17

where?

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DINE_W

SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Shared Plates Zucchini beignets Albacore tuna crudo Spanish octopus Braised pork belly Seared scallops Macaroni gratin

ESTÉREL RESTAURANT Located in the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, the recently redesigned Estérel Restaurant boasts a range of dining settings in which to enjoy executive chef Victor Boroda’s seasonally driven, Mediterraneaninspired cuisine. Guests can sip an aperitif in the French garden patio, Le Jardin, or host a private cocktail party in the Aviary. Two private dining rooms are available, as well; one serves as a chef’s table, where chef Boroda blends French and California cuisines in custom tasting menus.

In the open-plan main dining room, high-backed booths and deep blue walls create a sophisticated atmosphere, and an exhibition kitchen with a wood-burning oven provides a show. Additionally, guests can enjoy cocktails created by Frederic Zemmour, Riviera 31 Lounge Bar’s manager and resident mixologist. B,L,D (daily); Br (Su).

Plates Linguine alle vongole Albacore tuna Pan seared steelhead salmon Grass fed filet mignon Le jardin burger Braised lamb shank Poulet rôti

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 esterelrestaurant.com

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LADINING LOCANDA DEL LAGO Locanda del Lago blends organic produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and many other local purveyors with Italian ingredients to create dishes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. This family-run restaurant attracts celebrities, foodies, locals and travelers with its authentic and traditional recipes.

Dishes feature high-quality meats and pastas such as all-natural Niman Ranch veal shank, salt baked wild sea bass, housemade ravioli and home-made buckwheat pappardelle. A full vegetarian menu is also available. Enjoy the breads, desserts and gelato, made in-house daily. The warm interior and sidewalk patio overlooking the bustling Third Street Promenade also offers a daily happy hour that features specialty cocktails and local and Italian wines. B (Su), L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.3525 • lagosantamonica.com

THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak.

The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights.

Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

MATTEO’S RESTAURANT Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining its status as the epitome of classic cool. Now in its 50th year, Matteo’s continues to offer unique seasonal fare in a homey and hip setting. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu features sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7-and-under bar menu.

Gluten-free and vegetarian options also available. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 • matteosla.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LADINING IL FORNAIO Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include housemade pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto and rotisserie meats. Fresh pastas are made daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions.

Repeat recipient of The Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence.”

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills • 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach • 310.725.9555 24 West Union St., Pasadena • 626.683.9797 6320 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills • 818.297.1700 ilfornaio.com

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Classic New England clam shack meets California-chic bistro at Blue Plate Oysterette, the popular sister location to the seaside Santa Monica staple. A covered patio, large (fully stocked) bar and fresh modern interior by Tim Clarke Design offer ample seating and views into an open kitchen, where dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England steamers, lobster rolls, Jonah crab cakes and lobster mac and cheese are prepared using seafood flown in from the East and West coasts. Enjoy the local scene, and relax with friends over bloody marys, spiked blueberry lemonades, French toast and smoked-salmon Benedicts during the weekend brunch. Show your receipt for taking Uber or Lyft to the restaurant and receive $7 off your bill. Mention Where LA for a complementary key lime pie. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

8048 W. 3rd Street, L.A. 323.656.5474 • blueplatewest3rd.com

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Serving fresh seafood since 1979, Enterprise Fish Co. is housed in a historic brick building that was renovated to resemble the quintessential wharfside eateries found along the Pacific Coast.

Vintage photos of Venice Beach and other seaside locations on the walls set the beachy mood, as does the aquarium you pass by when entering. The restaurant’s open kitchen, set in the middle of the dining room, allows patrons to witness the catch of the day being cooked on a unique mesquite grill. Alternately, diners can eat alfresco on the cozy heated patio. The menu features favorites like wild-caught fish, Maine lobster and king crab legs, but don’t miss the steaks and decadent desserts. It’s no wonder Enterprise Fish Co. was voted locally as the No. 1 seafood restaurant in the area. Daily happy hour 4-7 pm. L, D (daily).

174 Kinney St., Santa Monica 310.392.8366 • enterprisefishcosantamonica.com

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T H E G U I D E | E N T E R TA I N M E N T

WESTEDGE DESIGN FAIR Nov. 3-6 Some 150 premium design brands showcase their latest products and design ideas for the home during this annual event, which also features educational panel discussions, culinary demonstrations and more. Th 7-10 pm; F-Sa 10 am-6 pm; Su 10 am-5 pm. $20-$80, under 12 free; opening night $80$95. Barker Hangar, 3021 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 917.822.0350, westedgedesignfair.com Map L10 ICE AT SANTA MONICA Opening Nov. 3 This 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica brings holiday spirit to the beach. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 5th Street and Arizona Avenue, Santa Monica, 310.260.1199, downtownsm.com Map L8

AFI FEST Nov. 10-17 Presented by Audi, the American Film Institute’s annual film festival offers screenings and events in the heart of Hollywood. Warren Beatty’s Rules Don’t Apply opens this year’s fest. Tickets available online or at box office. Screenings free. See website for schedule, venues and pass pricing. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.234.3378, afi.com/afifest Map H13

Go West Building on its nearly three decades showcasing the art, history and cultures of the American West, the Autry has unveiled California Continued, its most transformative undertaking to date. Four main attractions covering 20,000 square feet make up the project: a long-term exhibition, Human Nature, which explores how Native Californian ecological knowledge is applicable to current environmental problems; an ethnobotanical teaching garden; The Life and Work of Mabel McKay, a show dedicated to the life and work of a modern Pomo basket weaver and healer (which includes works by fellow California Indian artists such as Harry Fonseca, whose painting is above); and the immersive film California Road Trip, which lets visitors hitch a ride on a virtual journey to iconic destinations in the Golden State. p. 77

L.A. COMEDY FEST Nov. 10-20 Featuring film, live comedy acts and a screenplay competition, this showcase attracts up-and-comers and established comics alike. Check website for schedule and ticket information.

Let Live Theatre, 916 N. Formosa Ave., L.A., lacomedyfest.com Map I13 HOLIDAY ICE RINK IN PERSHING SQUARE Opening Nov. 10 Skate among the skyscrapers at this ice-skating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square. See website for hours and skate-session schedule. $9, skate rental $4. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 DIEM: TALKS DESIGN Nov. 11 Fifth annual design symposium offers discussions and panels from leaders in the fields of design, decorative and fine arts, fashion and architecture. Panelists at this year’s “Co-Everything”themed event include Eric Buterbaugh, Mayer Rus and Clique Media Group’s Michelle Plantan. See website for schedule and registration. 11 am. West Hollywood Design District, Melrose Avenue and Robertson and Beverly boulevards, West Hollywood, diemevent.com Map I12 CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: TORUK—THE FIRST FLIGHT Nov. 11-13 Based on James Cameron’s megahit Avatar, this Cirque du Soleil show envisions a world beyond imagination set thousands of years before the events of the film. Check website for schedule. $55-$155, under 3 free. Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7340, cirquedusoleil.com Map I15 LOS ANGELES AUTO SHOW Nov. 18-27 Test-drive over 100 cars and explore more than 1,000 vehicles in the show’s four exhibit halls. New this year: a showcase of cutting-edge mobility tech. Check website for hours. $5-$15, under 6 free. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 310.444.1850, laautoshow.com Map I15 CHILL AT THE QUEEN MARY Opening Nov. 23 The Queen Mary hosts this annual winter wonderland, which features outdoor ice skating, ice tubing and more. This year’s immersive Alice in Winterland experience reimagines Lewis Carroll’s classic story with color and light. Check website for hours. $29.99-$59.99. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0752, queenmary.com/chill Map O16 TURKEY TROT LOS ANGELES Nov. 24 Spend Thanksgiving morning in downtown L.A., partaking in a scenic 5K or 10K route through the area’s historic streets. The race

guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

index Special Events.................... 74 Studio Tapings................... 77 Theater................................. 74 Museums............................ 77 Music + Dance.................... 74 Shopping Destinations.... 78 Sports.................................... 75 Nightlife................................ 78 Attractions.......................... 75 Tours + Transport..............80 Studio Tours........................ 77

starts at City Hall and takes runners past Grand Park and Walt Disney Concert Hall. There is also a Widdle Wobble 1K for kids. Proceeds benefit charity the Midnight Mission. 5K 8 am; 10K 8:30 am; Widdle Wobble 10 am. $20-$60. 200 N. Spring St., downtown, 310.821.7898, turkeytrot.la Map H17

Theater HEDWIG AND THE ANGRY INCH Nov. 1-27 Glee’s Darren Criss stars alongside Tony winner Lena Hall in the L.A. premiere of this genre-bending rock musical by John Cameron Mitchell and Stephen Trask. Recommended for mature audiences. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 ICEBERGS Opening Nov. 8 Alena Smith’s (The Affair, Newsroom) Silver Lake-set comedy about aimless 30-somethings has its world premiere here. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 THE BEAUTY QUEEN OF LEENANE Opening Nov. 9 This dark comedy follows protagonist Maureen Folan and her aging mother, who meddles in her daughter’s romantic relationship with horrific results. Tony winner Garry Hynes helms this production by the renowned Irish Druid Theatre Company. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

MODEL APARTMENT Through Nov. 20 This early work by Pulitzer Prize winner Donald Margulies follows an elderly couple who retire to Florida but can’t escape their brutal past. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 VICUÑA Through Nov. 20 A timely entry for election season, this satirical play—having its world premiere—follows the tailor of a real-estate tycoon/ reality TV star turned presidential nominee. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 MERRILY WE ROLL ALONG Opening Nov. 22 This rarely staged Stephen Sondheim work (based on the 1934 play of the same name) navigates the bumpy history of three friends who began their careers in show business together and features songs like “Good Thing Going” and “Our Time.” Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11

Music + Dance CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA Nov. 5 Lucinda Childs: A Portrait (1963-2016). Nov. 13 Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra: Mozart & Mendels-

The Tower Bar in the historic Sunset Tower Hotel on the Sunset Strip is housed in gangster Bugsy Siegel’s old apartment on the ground floor. p. 79

HARRY FONSECA, A GIFT FROM CALIFORNIA (CIRCA 1979), PHOTO COURTESY AUTRY MUSEUM

Special Events

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AT T R A C T I O N S + M U S E U M S

MORE LIGHTS, MORE NIGHTS.

LA ZOO LIGHTS NIGHTLY N I G NOV H 18T— LJANY8

*

NOV 27–JAN 3

sohn. Nov. 18-19 Robert Wilson/Mikhail Baryshnikov: Letter to a Man. Royce Hall, UCLA, 405 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, 310.825.2101, cap.ucla.edu Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Nov. 5, 10, 13, 17, 19, 27 L.A. Opera, Akhnaten, by Philip Glass, conductor Matthew Aucoin, director Phelim McDermott. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.0711 Map H16 THE FORUM Nov. 1 Kanye West. Nov. 5 The Real Show, featuring Usher, Bryson Tiller, Desiigner, Belly and more.

Nov. 12-13 Maná. Nov. 14 Temple of the Dog. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Nov. 5 An Evening With Joan Baez. Nov. 6 Kamasi Washington; The Langston Hughes Project “Ask Your Mama: 12 Moods for Jazz,” featuring the Ron McCurdy Quartet. Nov. 9 L’Arpeggiata: Teatro d’Amore. Nov. 11-13 Dvorák & Sibelius, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Santtu-Matias Rouvali, cellist Johannes Moser. Nov. 13 Garrick Ohlsson. Nov. 15 Chamber Music. Nov. 17 Rebel Without a Cause, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Scott Dunn. Nov. 18 On the Waterfront, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor David Newman. Nov. 19 Berliner Philharmoniker, conductor Sir Simon Rattle. Nov. 20 Casablanca, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor David Newman. Nov. 22 Alice’s Adventures, featuring LA Phil New Music Group, conductor Thomas Adès, soprano Barbara Hannigan. Nov. 25-27 Mozart & Brahms, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Krzysztof Urbanski, violinist Augustin Hadelich. Nov. 26 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker Suite Featuring Barak Ballet, L.A. Philharmonic. Nov. 27 Organ Recital: Philippe Lefebvre. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Sports STAPLES CENTER Nov. 1 Los Angeles Kings vs. Anaheim Ducks. Nov. 2 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Nov. 3 Kings vs. Pittsburgh Penguins. Nov. 4 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors. Nov. 5 Kings vs. Calgary Flames. Nov. 6 Lakers vs. Phoenix Suns.

Nov. 7 Clippers vs. Detroit Pistons. Nov. 8 Lakers vs. Dallas Mavericks. Nov. 9 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers.

Nov. 14 Clippers vs. Brooklyn Nets. Nov. 15 Lakers vs.

Brooklyn Nets. Nov. 16 Clippers vs. Memphis Grizzlies.

Nov. 17 Kings vs. Edmonton Oilers. Nov. 18 Lakers vs.

San Antonio Spurs. Nov. 19 Kings vs. New Jersey Devils; Clippers vs. Chicago Bulls. Nov. 20 Lakers vs. Chicago Bulls. Nov. 21 Clippers vs. Toronto Raptors. Nov. 22 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Nov. 23 Kings vs. New York Islanders. Nov. 25 Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors.

Nov. 26 Kings vs. Chicago Blackhawks. Nov. 27 Lakers vs.

Atlanta Hawks. Nov. 30 Kings vs. San Jose Sharks.

1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

ZooLAbrate with us! L.A.’s brightest holiday tradition shines more brilliantly than ever as we commemorate our 50th year. Explore a dazzling wonderland of light – with magical Golden Anniversary touches throughout – while enjoying seasonal sights and delights, all under the stars at the beautiful Los Angeles Zoo.

Tickets on sale now at LAZooLights.org Special offer for WHERE Magazine readers:

$2 OFF ADULT/$1 OFF CHILD L.A. Zoo Lights admission with code 16TTZL Discount on online purchase only. Not valid for daytime admission.

*Closed November 24, December 24, and December 25. ©Greater Los Angeles Zoo Association. All rights reserved.

Attractions AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and moon jellies and bioluminescent jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea otters, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 ARTISTS & FLEAS Hip artist, designer and vintage market also offers food trucks, workshops and DJs. Downtown: Sa 10 am-4 pm; Venice: Sa 11 am-5 pm.

Free. 740 E. 3rd St., downtown; 1010 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.900.9987 Map J17, N9 BARNSDALL ART PARK Eleven-acre park features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, as well as the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: Th-Su 11 am-4 pm. Hollyhock House tours $3-$7 (credit card only). 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031, barnsdall.org Map W22

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GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23

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DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage and updated Star Tours. Disney California Adventure is adjacent.

Call for hours. $95-$119, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6

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DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include the Ancient Forest and a camellia garden. New restaurant Maple is open for weekend brunch and will offer dinner Nov. 25-Jan. 8, coinciding with the interactive light experience “Enchanted: Forest of Light” (tickets priced separately).

Daily 9 am-5 pm. $4-$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19

L.A. ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $15-$20, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 LEGOLAND Resort features more than 60 rides, shows and attractions, Sea Life Aquarium, Legoland Water Park and Legoland Hotel. See legoland.com for hours, ticket packages. Parking $15-$25. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD World-famous museum of wax figures. Hours vary. $22.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13

one of the many powerful exhibits at the

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

THE GRAMMY MUSEUM® AND DELTA AIR LINES® PRESENT

OUE SKYSPACE L.A. California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Daily self-guided and guided tours; night tours available. Check queenmary.com for schedule and pricing. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

© DANNY FIELDS

RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $6-$16, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including killer whales, fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $87-$93, under 3 free.

Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 800.257.4268 Map I8 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes new dining options such as Dongpo Kitchen and LudoBird, plus state-of-the-art cinema and Imax theater. iFly Hollywood is a simulated skydiving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter and The Walking Dead Attraction are recent additions.

Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

SEPTEMBER 16, 2016 THROUGH FEBRUARY 2017 www.grammymuseum.org GRAMMY Museum® and the Museum logo are registered trademarks of The Recording Academy® and are used under license.

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“The Official Museum of Hollywood” -Hollywood’s Honorary Mayor, Johnny Grant

IN THE HISTORIC MAX FACTOR BUILDING

Studio Tours

Advance online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16

PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour group tour of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservation recommended.

Tours daily (except some holidays) every half-hour 9:30 am-3 pm. $55; VIP tour $178, under 10 not admitted. 2.5-hour After Dark Tour every 15 minutes F-Sa 7:30-8 pm. $78, under 12 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, with an emphasis on California and the western United States. Continuing Hank Willis Thomas: Black Righteous Space; The Ease of Fiction; Genevieve Gaignard: Smell the Roses; Politics, Race, and Propaganda: The Nazi Olympics, Berlin 1936; Taking Place: Selections From the Permanent Collection. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12; $15 after 5 pm. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8

SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where television shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservation, photo ID required. M-F 9:30 am-2:30 pm. $40, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, gourmet lunch and other perks. Check universalstudioshollywood.com or call for hours and current prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes observation of filming (when possible).

Deluxe tour available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-3:30 pm. $62, under 8 not admitted. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

Studio Tapings Milton Greene Photograph, 1953 © 2013 The Hollywood Museum

SEE 10,000 AUTHENTIC SHOWBIZ TREASURES SHOWCASING 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD!

The most extensive collection of costumes, props, posters, and photographs in the world!

AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC and the CW produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang Theory, Girl Meets World and 2 Broke Girls. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com THE ELLEN DEGENERES SHOW Free tickets to taping of comedian’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent. Day-of tickets, call before noon; advance tickets, go to ellen.warnerbros.com/tickets. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20 JIMMY KIMMEL LIVE! Free tickets to live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. El Capitan Entertainment Centre, 6840 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 1iota.com Map H13

SPECIAL EXHIBITS Marilyn Monroe The Exhibit Child Stars: Then and Now Max Factor: Hollywood Glamour Make Up Magic

ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including American Idol, Family Feud, So You Think You Can Dance and The Price Is Right.

Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

Open: Wed. - Sun. 10am-5pm “#1 Hollywood Tourist Attraction” –LA Weekly “One of LA’s Top 10 Museums” –LA Tourism and Convention Board “Certificate of Excellence” –Trip Advisor 1660 North Highland Avenue at Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood, California 90028 323.464.7776 www.TheHollywoodMuseum.com

Museums AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the American West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Continuing California Continued; Revolutionary Vision: Group f/64 and Richard Misrach Photographs From the Bank of America Collection; New Acquisitions Featuring the Kaufman Collection; California Impressionism: The Gardena High School Collection.

Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $4-$10, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains nearly 2,000 works of contemporary art. Otium restaurant is adjacent. Opening Nov. 5 Creature. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free.

CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Continuing The Science Behind Pixar Exhibition; Mission 26: The Big Endeavour. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views.

Through Nov. 13 London Calling: Bacon, Freud, Kossoff, Andrews, Auerbach, and Kitaj. Through Nov. 27 Richard Learoyd: In the Studio; Real/Ideal: Photography in France, 1847–1860. Continuing Drawing: The Art of Change; Recent Acquisitions in Focus: Latent Narratives; Greek and Roman Sculpture From the Santa Barbara Museum of Art; The Shimmer of Gold: Giovanni di Paolo in Renaissance Siena; The Art of Alchemy; The Alchemy of Color in Medieval Manuscripts. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm.

Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities.

Continuing Roman Mosaics Across the Empire. W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Continuing Shining Like a National Guitar; The Kingston Trio and the Folk Revival; Legends of Motown: Celebrating the Miracles; Hey! Ho! Let’s Go: Ramones and the Birth of Punk; Count Basie: The King of Swing. M-F 10:30 am-6:30 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-6:30 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. Continuing Child Stars—Then and Now. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens. New education and visitor center. Through Nov. 14 Blast! Modernist Painting. Continuing Geographies of Wonder Pt. 2; Real American Places; Folded Transformations; Orbit Pavilion; Van Gogh & Friends; Lari Pittman: Mood Books; Chinese Woodblock Prints.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. $10-$25, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 JAPANESE AMERICAN NATIONAL MUSEUM Promotes understanding of ethnic diversity with a focus on the Japanese American experience. Continuing Uprooted: Japanese American Farm Labor Camps During World War II; Tatau: Marks of Polynesia. Tu-W, F-Su 11 am-5 pm; Th noon-8 pm. $6-$10, under 5 free, Th 5-8 pm and third Th of the month free. 100 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the

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SHOPPING under 13 free, first F and third Th of the month free.

490 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.568.3665 Map Q20 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Newly renovated museum displays some 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits.

Daily 10 am-6 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. Vault tours $20, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER The American Jewish experience. Continuing Pop for the People: Roy Lichtenstein in L.A. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Th. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

Shopping Destinations main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site.

The Observation Pit was recently reopened after 20 years. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the Western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. Opening Nov. 13 John McLaughlin Paintings: Total Abstraction.

Opening Nov. 20 Renaissance and Reformation: German Art in the Age of Dürer and Cranach. Through Nov. 27 Guillermo del Toro: At Home With Monsters; Picasso and His Printers. (See lacma.org for continuing and ongoing exhibits, programs and special events.) M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $10-$15, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities.

Through Nov. 27 Gaetano Pesce: Molds (Gelati Misti) (PDC). Continuing storefront: Paradise Garage (GA); Doug Aitken: Electric Earth (GC); R. H. Quaytman, Morning: Chapter 30 (GA); Mickalene Thomas: Do I Look Like a Lady? (GA). GA and GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-Su 11 am-8 pm. $6-$12, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-W, F 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-9:30 pm (extended hours for Anne only). $11.50-$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens, interactive Nature Lab and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Continuing Spider Pavilion. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 NORTON SIMON MUSEUM Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Continuing Dark Visions: Mid-Century Macabre; States of Mind: Picasso Lithographs 1945–1960. M, W-Th noon-5 pm; F-Sa 11 am-8 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. $9-$12; students with photo ID, under 19 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 PASADENA MUSEUM OF CALIFORNIA ART California art, architecture, design. Continuing In the Land of Sunshine: Imaging the California Coast Culture; Lloyd Hamrol/Joan Perlman: “a sky in the palm of a hand.” $5-$7,

THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley. Some 90 stores such as Kate Spade, new Toms and Topshop Topman.

Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak

by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall near West Hollywood, undergoing a multimillion-dollar renovation, has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, True Religion concept store, Uniqlo, Cos) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Kate Spade, H&M, Banana Republic, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Popular outdoor center has some 40 shops including Apple, Brandy Melville and Nordstrom, plus restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill, all in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown.

Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws.

Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 ONE COLORADO Quaint outdoor plaza with upscale boutiques such as OSKA, Cop. Copine, Mohawk General Store and Sugarfina, plus iPic Theaters and restaurants including Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and new ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Céline, Gucci, Chloé, Jimmy Choo) and 40 restaurants, including new Water Grill. Concierge at four locations.

3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6

THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes trendy shops, kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8

Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldatlax.com Map O10

Nightlife 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club in from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY World-famous gay bar and nightclub with flavored mules, mojitos and martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. 213 Nightlife’s Arts District brewery and tasting room. 828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887 Map I17 AVALON HOLLYWOOD Recently renovated dance club and concert venue with a storied past: It hosted the Beatles’ first West Coast performance. More intimate club Bardot is upstairs. 1735 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.8900 Map H14 BAR JACKALOPE Intimate whiskey bar hidden in the back of downtown’s Seven Grand, featuring more than 120 premium whiskeys, including many of the au courant Japanese labels. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0736 Map I16 BAR MARMONT Dreamy bar just down the hill from the historic Chateau Marmont. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.650.0575 Map H12 BLIND BARBER Craft-cocktail-driven speakeasy hidden in the rear of a barbershop. 10797 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.841.6679 Map L11 BOOTSY BELLOWS Nightclub with burlesque shows and other live entertainment. 9229 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.7500 Map H12 BRACK SHOP TAVERN Cozy new cocktail pub from the team behind Silver Lake’s Same Same offers eclectic bar food, from a patty melt to Welsh rarebit. 525 W. 7th St., downtown, brackshoptavern.com Map I16 BREAK ROOM 86 ‘80s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites, guest DJs, fruity drinks, break-roomstyle snacks and live entertainment. 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8

COVELL Intimate Los Feliz neighborhood wine bar from Dustin Lancaster, who’s also behind Silver Lake’s L&E Oyster Bar and El Condor. 4628 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.660.4400 Map W23 DOHENY ROOM Stylish new art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12 GRANDPA JOHNSON’S Stylish art deco lounge. 1638 N. Cahuenga Blvd., L.A., 323.467.7300 Map H14 HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13

TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features high-end boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus restaurant 208 Rodeo and fine-art gallery Galerie Michael. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

HYDE SBE lounge with offshoots around the country. Reservation recommended; open during arena concerts and games. Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 323.330.8018 Map I15

WESTFIELD AT LAX Retail and dining options curated

by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Wolfgang Puck, Spanx, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Porsche Design, Rock & Brews) available to travelers flying out of LAX’s Tom

THE LINCOLN Newer neighborhood bar recalls the area’s automobile heritage, displaying a 1927 Model T Roadster and serving up craft spirits. 2536 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.822.1715 Map M10

JOAN MARCUS

Darren Criss in Hedwig and the Angry Inch. p. 74

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NIGHTLIFE MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12 THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservation-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 NIGHTINGALE PLAZA SBE’s exclusive new nightclub has a main club room outfitted with state-of-the-art technology and lighting, two bars/lounges and an outdoor garden “oasis.” 643 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 323.457.2211 Map I12 NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14

LA’S MUST-SEE ATTRACTION FEATURES: California’s tallest open-air observation terrace Unobstructed 360° views The thrilling Skyslide Interactive exhibits

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SANDBOX New restaurant, bar, patio and lounge from TBC Hospitality with games (skee ball, pinball, pingpong) and weekend brunch with bottomless mimosas.

7174 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.964.9494 Map I12 SASSAFRAS Lounge styled as a (stylishly) decaying Savannah town house specializes in barrel-aged cocktails. 1233 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.467.2800 Map H14 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-incheek hunt-club decor. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13 THE STANDARD DOWNTOWN Rooftop bar with panoramic city views and a pool, plus a rooftop beer garden and ping-pong club Spin. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16 THE STANDARD HOLLYWOOD Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12

TRANSFORM YOUR VIEW

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STARK BAR Alfresco bar at LACMA with handcrafted cocktails and great small plates. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 Map J13 TABULA RASA Casual, lively wine bar in Thai Town from two Bestia alums. 5125 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., tabularasabar.com Map B3 £10 Pronounced “ten pound,” this whiskey bar in the Montage Beverly Hills specializes in single-malt Scotch whisky from the Macallan. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 TOM BERGIN’S L.A.’s quintessential Irish bar serving beers on draft, cocktails and comfort food. 840 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.936.7151 Map J13 TOWER BAR Tony, Old Hollywood-inspired bar at Sunset Tower Hotel; pianist in tails plays at the baby grand. 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6677 Map H12 UPSTAIRS Sip drinks and enjoy stunning city views atop Ace Hotel, in the historic United Artists Building.

929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WHISKY A GO-GO Legendary Rock and Roll Hall of Famer still rocks. 8901 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.4202 Map H12

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TO U R S + T R A N S P O RT

Tours + Transport AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 BIKES AND HIKES L.A. Biking and/or hiking tours in customizable or preset itineraries. Daily tours include L.A. in a Day, Movie Star or Hollywood bike tours, daily morning or sunset hikes. Advance reservations required.

Daily 9 am-5 pm. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555, bikeshikes.com Map H12 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Ride Free on Your Birthday program. Call or check website for hours and pricing. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DELISH TOURS Culinary tour of “hidden gem” restaurants in Venice Beach. Reservation required. Private tours available. F-Su 11 am-2 pm; private tours offered daily. $65. Westminster Avenue and Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 323.412.9077, delishtours.com Map N9 DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., downtown, 866.363.4377 Map G17 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9

There’s always something new to see and learn at the Aquarium of the Pacific. Touch sharks. Feed lorikeet birds. Watch penguins play. over 11,000 animals await you. Don’t miss our new exhibit Horses and Dragons.

562.590.3100 100 AquArium WAy, Long BeAch, cA 90802

METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tour plus tours to beaches, theme parks, San Diego and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour has more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13

TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip. See website for pickup locations, schedule, pricing. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

where?

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Experience the art, history, and cultures of the American West at the Autry Museum! Now featuring California Continued—a dazzling exhibition spanning two new galleries and an outdoor ethnobotanical garden.

SPONSORS

CREATIVE PARTNER

CINDY AND ALAN HORN

4700 Western Heritage Way · Los Angeles, CA 90027 Across from the L.A. Zoo · Free Parking · TheAutry.org IMAGE: Film still, Suzanne Mejean-Pinney

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@starlinetours

1-800-959-3131 • 1-323-463-3333 Main Starline Terminal is at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., 90028 Santa Monica Terminal is at 1434 2nd St., Santa Monica 90401 Anaheim Terminal is at M3 Live, 2232 S. Harbor Blvd., Anaheim 92802

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OFF PER PERSON FOR ANY TOUR TICKETS*

SPECIAL WHERE OFFER Including Movie Stars Homes, Grand Tour of LA, Hollywood Trolley Tour, Hop-On Hop-Off Double Decker Tour, Disneyland, Warner Bros VIP Tour & more!

*VALID FOR ANY STARLINE TOUR EXCLUDING “SPECIALS”. HOTEL PICK-UPS AVAILABLE. NOT VALID WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNT. NOT VALID FOR ONLINE RESERVATIONS OR PRIOR BOOKINGS.VALID ONLY FOR CUSTOMERS WHO PURCHASE TICKETS DIRECTLY AT STARLINE KIOSK AT CHINESE THEATRE OR CONTACT STARLINE DIRECTLY AT 1-323-463-3333 OR 1-800-959-3131. VALID THROUGH 9/30/16.

10/11/16 3:45 PM

GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s third-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes.

Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries.

Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.75. It’s best to pay using a TAP card, a reloadable plastic card that can store Metro passes or individual rides. TAP cards cost $1 and are available from self-service vending machines at Metro Rail stations, or onboard buses with the purchase of a 1-Day Pass. For complete information, check metro.net/fares.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center/Grand Park • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall • Grand Park 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) • FIGat7th (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • TCL Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City/Studio City • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood

Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train.

North Hollywood • El Portal Theatre • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

Hours

METRO BLUE LINE

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street/Watts Tower • Watts Towers Downtown Long Beach • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum • The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake • Pasadena Playhouse

METRO EXPO LINE

Expo Park/USC • California Science Center • Natural History Museum SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 87

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angeles

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Dining with marina views at Cast & Plow at the Ritz-Carlton, Marina del Rey. 310.574.4333 The Picasso lithographs exhibition at the Norton Simon Museum. p. 78 The secret entrance to Maré on Melrose. 323.592.3226 Burgers and frozen custard at the new Shake Shack in Glendale. 818.858.1612 Date night at sexy STK in the W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills. p. 61 The Jack Taylor cocktail at Citizen in Beverly Hills.

310.402.5885 Serafina Sunset’s arugulatopped pizza bianca. p. 11 Grabbing a preconcert

drink at Nest at WP24, in the Ritz-Carlton at L.A. Live. p. 58

where in the world

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Gerald Clarke’s Continuum Basket: Flora (2016), on display in California Continued at the Autry Museum. p. 77

The Skirball’s expansive Pop for the People: Roy Lichtenstein in L.A. exhibition. p. 78

Customized Biologique Recherché facials at Ciel Spa at SLS Beverly Hills. 310.246.5560

George Takei’s donation of his collection of personal artifacts to the Japanese American National Museum. p. 77

German eyewear brand Mykita’s new, über-hip downtown flagship. 213.335.5815

Lafco holiday candles and diffusers at Bluemercury in Brentwood. 310.442.5900 The Warren Loves His Momma cocktail at Highland Park Bowl. p. 19 Wine and montanara at the Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ new Vinoteca.

310.273.2222 Massages at The Now in Santa Monica. 310.310.2914 Mixing and mingling at the beautiful bar at Norah in West Hollywood. 323.450.4211 The Murakami x Shu Uemura holiday collection, available at Society Salon on Melrose Avenue. 323.655.4555

WHERE is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Disney legend Eyvind Earle’s Paradise (1973), on view at Forest Lawn Museum’s exhibition of his work. 800.204.­3131 Chic Dior Split sunglasses, available at the Beverly Hills Dior boutique. 310.859.4700 Bar Moruno’s Spanish cuisine, at Grand Central Market, downtown. 213.232.4650 Celebrity aesthetician Kát Rudu’s pure biotic vegan skincare line, available at Ron Robinson. 310.458.1160 The Spider Pavilion at the Natural History Museum. p. 78

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Shrimp cocktails at swanky The Arthur J in Manhattan Beach. p. 60 Yoga at The Springs downtown. 213.223.6226 Getting the runway look in the Burberry Beverly Hills flagship’s beauty room.

310.550.4500 The return of the Rams to Los Angeles. therams.com The new American Art wing at the Huntington. p. 77 Tom Dixon’s Tank barware at The Shop: Curve x Tom Dixon in Culver City. 310.237.5422

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Tampa, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

9, AUTRY MUSEUM; 11, DANIELLE BERNABE; 15, COURTESY SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR; 18, EYVIND EARLE PUBLISHING LLC ©; 20, MICHELLE PARK; 27, COURTESY BURBERRY

WHERE 30 THINGS WE LOVE / los

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TH E ET ERNA L M OVEM EN T Ulysse Nardin, from the movement of the sea to the perpetual innovation of Haute Horlogerie. For over 170 years, the powerful movement of the ocean has inspired Ulysse Nardin in its singular quest: to push back the limits of mechanical watchmaking, time and time again.

Marine Chronometer 60 hours power reserve Self-winding manufacture Silicium technology ulysse-nardin.com

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